Table Of Contents Page

Copyright 3
Legal Disclaimer 4
Safety Information 6

Introduction 10
How It Works 13
Parts List 15
Building The Frame 16
Screen Mounts 18
Paint 19
Mount To Wall 20
Seal 21
Cut Vents 22
Install Metal Window Screen 24
Install Duct Covers 25
Install Cover 27
 Copyright
Copyright 2009 Power4Home.com. All rights reserved.

All literary work contained within this book belongs to and is the sole property of its
respective authors. Reproduction, copy, or any other form of use of the pieces
contained within the book is strictly forbidden without express permission from the
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the law.

Note: The owner of this book is permitted to print one hardcopy of this eBook for
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of the authors and to ensure that their work is upheld as their own.

NOTICE: This is NOT a Free Book. You do NOT have resell rights for this
book. I invested years of research into the creation of this resource. If you
purchased this book from anywhere other than www.Power4Home.com,
including eBay, please report to: support@Power4Home.com. Thank you.
 Legal Disclaimer
By reading and using the Power4Home guide, or the Power4Home.com website,
you agree to all terms of engagement, thus assuming complete responsibility for
your own actions. The creators, developers, publishers, and sellers will not be
held liable, nor will they claim accountability for any personal damages, loss or
injuries. You view and interact with these resources at your own risk.

All products from Power4Home.com, its related brands, and affiliated companies
are strictly for informational purposes only. While all attempts have been made to
verify the accuracy of all information provided on our website and within the
publications, circumstances and materials, known and unknown, existing or
otherwise, are unforeseeable to Power4Home.com , and as a result are beyond
the control of its creators, owners, employees and shareholders. Neither the
authors nor the publishers can assume responsibility or liability for possible
inaccuracies including, but not limited to errors or omissions. Loss of property,
injury to oneself or others, and even death could occur as a direct, or indirect
consequence of the use and application of any content found herein.

Working with renewable energy sources can be dangerous. Since you are dealing
with high roof tops and numerous other unknown conditions, seek qualified
opinions and help when necessary. The authors and publishers assume that, while
carrying out this project, you are aware of all the possible risks associated with
home improvements, renewable energy and energy-related projects in general.
Check with your town, city, state, province, county or country for applicable laws,
and/or bylaws regarding home improvements and alterations as it is customary
for necessary documentation to be required for such projects in most areas, prior
to the beginning of construction. Ultimately, you are responsible for learning
what local government permits and licenses are usually necessary to prevent legal
implications in your area.

The information provided may need to be downloaded using third-party software

(such as Acrobat or Flash Player) and it is the users responsibility to install the
software necessary to view such information. Any downloads, whether purchased
or given for free from our website, related websites, or hosting systems, are done
at the users own risk. No warranty is given that websites are free of corrupting
computer codes, viruses or worms.

If you are a minor, you can use this service only with permission and guidance
from your parents or guardians. Children are not eligible to use our services
unsupervised. Furthermore, this website specifically denies access to any
individual covered by the Child Online Privacy Act (COPA) of 1998.
Safety Information

Cautions

1. Avoid electrical hazards when installing, wiring, operating and maintaining

your solar air heater (solar furnace).
2. It is recommended that the components for your solar air heater remain
packed in the box until time of installation in order to avoid accidental
damage.
3. Never leave your solar air heater unsupported or unsecured.
4. Work only under dry conditions, with dry materials and tools.
5. Do not stand or step on your solar air heater.
6. If not otherwise specified, it is recommended that requirements of the
latest local, national or regional electric codes be followed.
7. Use your solar air heater for its intended function only.
8. Do not artificially concentrate heat or artificially generated hot air on your
solar air heater.
9. solar air heaters generate no electricity but create warm or even hot
convection currents of air
10. When installing or working with your solar air heater, close any pre-
existing or new vents completely to restrict air flow
Power Tool Safety

Power tools make work faster and let you complete projects much more easily.
With that convenience, however, comes many safety concerns. Blades rotating at
very high speeds, the presence of electricity and the sheer power of some of
these tools make them very dangerous. Special care should be taken when
operating power tools.

Safety Apparel

Safety goggles or a safety mask should be worn while operating power tools.
Shards of metal or wood can dislodge at high speed and do irreparable damage to
eyes or the soft tissue of the face. Safety footwear can provide some protection
against electric shock and can also protect toes if heavy items are dropped.

Guards and Safety Switches

According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, guards should

be installed on power tools to protect the user from exposed moving parts. A
safety guard should never be removed while a tool is in operation.
Many kinds of saws and drills have a safety control that shuts the power off to the
tool when pressure is released. This way, if a tool is dropped during operation, it
automatically shuts off and cannot cause damage to the user or surroundings as it
falls.

Electricity

Power tools should be plugged into a grounded receptacle. Electric shock is a

hazard to be avoided since it can easily be fatal. Never use tools in or around
water unless they are double-insulated. Store tools in a dry place and maintain
them properly. Replace frayed or worn cords on power tools.

Pneumatic Tools

These tools are powered by compressed air and can be very dangerous without
proper caution. Before using, make sure that tools are secure on the air hose so
that they don't fly off when operating. Pay close attention when using these
powerful tools and maintain a safe distance from people who are operating them.
Eye protection is a must, and screens can also be helpful to protect bystanders or
other workers. Do not ever point a pneumatic tool at a person or animal.

Workshop Safety
Keep your work area well-lit and free of debris. Properly maintain tools and
replace worn parts. Insist that everyone who uses power tools wear safety
equipment. Do not operate power tools while distracted or under the influence of
drugs or alcohol. Respect the strength of these tools and use common sense while
working.
Introduction
While people have always tried to seek out new and cheap forms of energy,
recent environmental concerns along with widespread fear of a coming energy
crisis have inspired a movement towards sources of power that are also clean and
renewable.

As more and more of us get used to the idea that we cant continue to use the
same coal-burning that has worked for previous generations, we are likely to
see more and more renewable energy devices like solar panels and wind
turbines dominating the skyline.

When you think "solar" you may first think about those heavy-looking, black solar
collector panels designed to produce electricity. The construction of solar panels
made up of photovoltaic cells is covered in our other book on generating
electricity using solar power. When we build a solar air heater, we are talking
about a completely different type of solar panel... Our solar heating unit is
designed to heat air, not create electricity.

Other designs include heating water, or some other conductive fluid. Different
types of solar collector panels and collectors may be used and adapted to
different purposes.

For the purposes of this project, we will be focusing specifically on the

construction of a solar air heater that you can use to heat a room in your house!

The best part is that if you are already utilizing solar power, heating the interior of
your home using solar air heaters is all you need to do to continue reducing your
energy costs and reliance on conventional power!

Heat is created directly by the sun. The suns rays warm the air. As the air is
warmed, it begins to rise. It is this movement, this force, which we can harness
and convert into a steady flow of heat for your home.

Based on the concept of central heat, air in a sealed chamber is warmed directly
by the sun, and is pushed into the interior of the home by convection force. Vents
in the wall allow the air in and control the flow of warm air.

Many cultures have developed passive means of tapping into the sun as a heating
source, but the earliest recorded historical use of a solar collection system dates
back to 1776. A Swiss scientist named Horace de Saussure developed a basic type
of solar heat collector called a "hot box" that was used for cooking and heating
water. Expeditions to Africa in the 1800s relied heavily on the use of solar thermal
energy for distilling water which reduced cases of malaria.

Also in the 1800s, early Americans were using cast-iron pots and pans to warm
water as they traveled. Passive solar thermal energy existed commonly across
America and provided a slow but reliable and cost-effective means of heating
water in places in which fuel could not be used, or was reserved for other
purposes. In 1897 nearly 30% of the houses in Pasadena, California had solar
water heaters.

As hydro-electricity reached more and more communities across America, the

desire to satisfy immediate energy needs grew in proportion to the dropping
costs of conventional power. Passive solar thermal power began to fade away,
though many homes and buildings kept their systems.

And a good thing they did too... Solar thermal energy enjoyed major gains in
popularity once again during the oil crisis of the 1970s. Use of solar thermal
energy declined once again as the energy crisis subsided, but has been looked at
in a new light recently due to communities becoming increasingly aware of the
environmental and public health hazards caused by power plants that burn highly
polluting, and non-renewable fossil fuels, like coal.
 How It Works

A solar air convection heater is powered by the low-angle winter sun. They are
easy to build and perform very well on the south-facing walls of buildings and
homes. With sufficient insulation and enough direct sunlight, this can be a
primary heat source with a secondary source only needed for cloudy days.

The transparent surface of the panel allows the suns rays to pass through and
warm the air inside. As the warm air rises, it moves through vents in the top into
the interior of your home. The convection force not only forces the warm air
inside, but draws a steady supply of fresh air into the bottom of the panel.

The warm currents of air produced by your panel should comes out anywhere
between 10 and 50 degrees warmer than the outside temperature on a clear,
sunny day. In fact, as it gets colder outside, you should notice an increased
temperature difference between the outside air and the interior of your home. It
is a simple and reliable concept, but can be very much a case of garbage-in,
garbage-out (in other words, do too many things wrong, or cut too many
corners, and you'll get less than desirable results).
If you want more heat in a non-insulated area you may want to consider a panel
with up to 1/3 more collector area than the ratio given in the instructions. Any
conversion math you do in altering the specifications of these plans is up to you,
but wont fundamentally change the functionality or the design. If you are careful
to seal any leaks or draughts, your solar air heater will be most effective.
 Parts List
2x8 lumber
2x6 lumber
2x4 lumber
2x2 lumber
Glass, Plexiglas, PVC, or some kind of durable, clear material
- large enough for the dimensions of your panel
Black aluminum window screening
- choose appropriate dimensions for your wall
Caulking
Non-reflective black paint
Heavy duty screws
Lag screws
Level
Staple gun
Electric drill
Power saw
- reciprocating saw, if possible
Duct covers
- 2 for every space between studs on the wall that covered by the
dimensions of your panel
 Building The Frame
You will begin your solar air heater project with the construction of a shallow box
that you will be able to mount vertically on the south-facing wall of any building
that you want to heat. A south-east or south-west wall can work too. The reason
that a vertical surface for mounting your panel is ideal (as opposed to the sloped
roofs preferred for mounting solar electric panels) is that summer sun is higher in
the sky, and won't hit it as directly as the low winter sun.

You should make the bottom and sides of your box using 2x6 lumber. The top
surface should be angled in order to shed rain and snow (and as a result will be
wider), so you should use a 2x8 piece of lumber for this surface. It isnt absolutely
necessary to slope the top of your frame in order for it to generate warm flows of
air, but it will help the wood survive much longer without need for maintenance.

It isnt necessary to build a rear surface to enclose your panel from the back, but
you can use plywood for this purpose if you wish. Keep in mind that this will add
to the overall weight of your panel and may require the use of additional mounts.

You will also need to consider that you will not want this material in the way of
the vents you will need to cut, so either plan on cutting through this material and
lining up your vent holes, or use a smaller surface for your backing that is
vertically shorter so that you can position it below the vents at the top, and below
the vents at the bottom. You will still need to use a foam sealant on any areas
with an exposed rear.

Even without building a rear surface, caulking can be used to seal the gap
between the wall and the panel even if the edges of aluminum siding create
more space than you would get with a flat wall.

You will likely find it easier to pre-build your panel lying flat on the ground, and
then mount it to the wall once complete. Make your panel box based on the stud
spacing in your wall. For example, if you have 24" studs in your wall your panel
should be 8' wide so that you can cut four vents to fit in between.

If your screen is too small to cover the entire frame as-is, you can put a 2x4
vertically through the middle of your frame and use two pieces of screening. This
will add stability as well as an extra mounting surface.
 Screen Mounts
Insert a 2x4 horizontally, flush with the top of the frame. Use lag screws to fix the
2x4 through the sides of the panel. Using the same means, insert another
horizontal 2x4 4 to 6 inches above the bottom of the frame. Make sure the
narrow edges of 2x4s are flush with the back of your box so that they dont come
out as far as the outer frame in front.
 Paint
Because of its ability to absorb a maximum amount of light (and since it is our
intention to get as much heat from this light as possible) you should paint the
inside and the outside of your panel in non-reflective black paint.

Apply several coats so that your panel is as dark as it can be, and because it will
help to seal any spaces remaining between the surfaces that could allow warm air
to escape.

If you have used either plywood or some other material to create a secure
backing for your solar air heating panel, paint the visible surface of this as well.
 Mount To Wall
You are now ready to pre-drill holes in the studs of your wall. It is important that
the holes be not only directly through the studs, but that they are even, so be
sure to measure, use a level and mark your holes with a pencil before you begin.
For best results use a drill bit that is a size smaller than the screws you plan to
use.

If you have an electronic stud finder device, this is best suited to this purpose.
Drill through the wall from the inside, ensuring that youve drilled through the
studs. Once holes are positioned correctly, and are visible from the exterior, you
are ready to position your panel and fix it to the wall.

Have a friend or able-bodied family member hold the panel in place while pre-
drilling holes from the inside of the building for the lag screws.

You should be using at least four (and ideally eight) 4" lag screws but the
specifications of the hardware you should use will depend on the characteristics
and building materials of your wall.
 Seal
This is the most important part of your project without a tight air seal, you will
not be able to concentrate air for heating and the result may be less than
impressive. Seal the box from the inside with weather stripping or foam. Foam
tends to be more effective, but be sure to trim away any excess once youre
finished. Be sure to also seal the bottom 2x4 that holds the screen in place.
 Cut Vents
In theory you could use almost any kind of sharp saw for this work, but for best
results you should try to buy, borrow or rent a reciprocating saw. Acting like a
heavy duty jigsaw, these special saws are ideally suited to situations where you
want to cut a certain shape out of a piece of wood without cutting in from the
sides.

Cut the holes to fit your duct covers. Follow the directions in the diagram, cutting
one vent on the bottom and on top for each section between the studs. Watch
for electrical wiring!
 Install Metal Window Screen
Measure and cut two layers of black window screening to be fitted to the two
horizontal 2x4s that you fit inside your frame. Be sure that you are using metal
window screen to get the most heat exchange. Nylon and fibreglass screens won't
work well at all.

48" wide screen is very common, and the edges are easy to trim with a utility
knife.

Attach your screen to your frame as shown below. Staples work best, but you can
also use nails or screws if you happen to have some lying around.
 Install Duct Covers
Youll need to be sure to fit your carefully cut ventilation holes with the standard
kind of duct covers that can be closed this keeps the warm air from leaving at
night, as your solar air heater will work in reverse once the sun goes down.

If your duct covers feel loose, you can use epoxy, light weather-stripping or
regular duct tape to seal any draughts.

Every vent that you cut should have a well-fitted duct cover. You can buy new
ones if you wish, or use whatever youve got around. Remember that the
important part is that they have moveable vent features that allow them to be
easily closed: if not, at night your solar air heater will work in reverse!
Use any additional screening to cover the faces of the ducts from inside the panel.
Failure to do so could result in insects or other unwanted pests making their way
into your home.
 Install Cover
If youve elected to use something like transparent PVC to make the top of your
solar air heater, you should have no problems cutting it to fit, and screwing it to
the frame. Use epoxy to repair any cracks that may form in the PVD during this
process.

The only problem is that, without using glass, you will not be able to gain
maximum value from your solar air heating unit simply because other materials
dont allow as much solar energy to pass through into the interior of your panel.
The benefits of using a non-glass cover are increased workability, lower cost and
avoidance of damage during transport.

If youve decided to use something else (glass or Plexiglas), chances are youll
have to get this material cut to fit your frame. Most companies that provide these
sorts of custom products can do so affordably, and they will also place any holes
you will need for mounting according to your instructions.

If they dont ask, make sure that you tell them what it is for, and provide an
accurate sketch based on careful measurements of where you intend to mount
your cover on your frame.
You should only use glass that is at least 1/8 of an inch thick, and is advisable.
The glass cutter will be able to advise you on their limitations for making different
sized holes, and how close to the edge of the glass they can place holes without
the glass breaking. It is important that you follow their advice very carefully.

Any attempt to drill holes in these types of materials using the wrong tools could
result in the shattering, cracking or otherwise destruction of the material. In order
to protect yourself, and the integrity of your project, you may wish to leave this
step to a skilled professional.

While getting glass cut is more expensive than buying plastic and cutting it
yourself, it is still quite affordable. Most shops that were consulted in the writing
of this guide would cut and drill a 4x4 square of tempered Ultraclear glass for $20
at 1/8 of an inchs thickness.

If you have opted to construct a fairly large solar air heating unit, are you are
having the cover to your unit cut and drilled for you, there may be some sizing
limitations to the workability of the glass... In short, you may need to order
several pieces of glass the same size to put your cover together.

Again seek the help of a friend, family member or neighbour to help you hold the
cover in place while you fix it to the frame with mounting screws. Make sure that
you dont use a larger gauge screw than the bit that was used to make the holes,
or cracking or splitting of your cover could occur.

Youre done! And now, so long as the sun is shining, you will be able to be able to
turn down the thermostat and enjoy free, clean, and renewable convection heat
for your home. The best part is that you have used a simple and reliable method
that doesnt even have any moving parts to break down. If properly painted and
sealed, your solar air heater should give you 15-20 years of maintenance-free
heat!