Ghid de Buzunar - Cracovia

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Krakw
No. 102, October - November 2016
No. 102 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
Tytano: Krakws Urban Lifestyle Complex
Arrival & Transport
10
City Basics
16
18
Basic History
Jewish Ghetto
Nowa Huta
104
106
Further Afield
Wieliczka
110
Auschwitz
113
Tarnw 116
Culture & Events 20
Leisure
120
Restaurants
Shopping
124
Directory
130
Hotels
132
Polish Food
28
46
Cafs
56
Nightlife
60
68
Kazimierz Nightlife
Sightseeing
The Royal Route
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgrze
70
72
74
90
94
100
Maps & Index

Nowa Huta Map
City Map
City Centre Map
Street Index
Listings Index
Features Index
139
140
143
144
145
146
In the city skyline, the Royal Castle at Wawel (p.90) still looms large.
blog.inyourpocket.com/poland
October - November 2016
Foreword
As the final embers of summer are snuffed from Krakws
slow-burning candle, the citys autumnal ambience is
unwinding like wisps of smoke across the Wisa River, and
we simply cant seem to stop ourselves from waxing poetic
about our favourite time of year in Polands most magical,
mysterious city. It literally is the season for wax, poetry
and mystery after all, as within the next two months we
will be peering into the hot melted wax of our futures
during the skeleton key seances of Andrzejki (Nov 29,
p.58), celebrating Krakws life in letters during the Conrad
Festival (Oct 24-30, p.24), challenging accepted notions
of what constitutes a concert during the cryptic Unsound
Festival (Oct 16-23, p.24), and communing with the spirits
of our ancestors by candlelight during All Saints Day
(Nov 1, p.84). Its all pure Cracovian magic, enhanced and
amplified by the brilliant brushfire of colour in the trees
and the beguiling gauze of fog that drapes each daybreak.
But thats not all. October and November are also when
southern Poland falls under the seasonal spell of the halny
- a wild, warm wind from the Tatra mountains, which rips
through the city like an invisible serpent, stirring the dark
matter of the brain with mad, maniacal thoughts and
provoking erratic behaviour. Inspiring indeed, but we dont
make this stuff up - hold on to your hat, and keep tabs on
your chemistry or you may just find yourself possessed to
stay in this enchanted city forever.
As for our part, weve been feverishly expecting you. As
we have without pause for the past 17 years, within these
pages weve compiled, catalogued and conscientiously
updated all the information you could possibly need (and a
lot more actually) to go have a moon-howlingly good time
in Krakw; so whatever the unseen hand that guided you
here, use your own to grip this guide, go out and have an
unforgettable time.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
20,000 copies published every two months
Editorial
Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed;
Production Manager: Maria Rulaff;
Research Manager: Anna bikowska; Researchers: Elbieta
Kanafa, Magdalena Seroczyska, Anna bikowska; Layout:
Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Paula Lasota, Adam
Rozalowski; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated; Cover Tomeyk, AdobeStock
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager:
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Copyright Notice & Editors Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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A wall mural in Tytano - Krakws cool new culture complex. Find more on Tytano in our feature on p.6, and more on Krakws street art on
p.134.
4 Krakw In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Feature 1
Tytano: Manufacturing Local Hipsters Since 2016.
TYTANO:
Krakws Urban Lifestyle
Complex
After laying dormant for over a decade, this former tobacco factory
has risen again as Tytano - a veritable city within the city. Inhabiting
15,000m2 and six buildings, Tytanos sheer size, potential, and postindustrial allure has attracted dozens of young, alternative and
original businesses with their fingers on the pulse of current cultural
trends, making this artsy, offbeat complex the current place to be in
Krakw.
Tytano
The queue for a beer in Wee Krafta - Krakws biggest
multitap bar - is running over a dozen deep on a warm
Saturday night, but thats nothing compared to the queue
of businesses and initiatives eager to set up shop here inside
Tytano - the former tobacco plant on ul. Dolnych Mynw,
just west of Krakws Old Town. The first bar to open their
doors (back in June) inside this emergent culture complex
for young creative enterprises, Wee is one of over a dozen
businesses already residing in Tytano, but that number is
expected to rise to 50 in the next six months, with over 200
projects having applied for a highly coveted space inside
this post-industrial complex.
So how did an abandoned cigarette factory become the
hottest address in town? Well, Tytanos transformation
from industrial graveyard to alternative culture centre
is actually well within an established tradition of similar
successful urban renewal projects in Poland like ds
Manufaktura and OFF Piotrkowska, Poznas OFF Garbary
and even Wrocaws Browar Mieszczaski. The fact that
there is so much enthusiasm over a comparable place in
conservative Krakw is hardly a surprise, particularly after
the popularity of forerunning establishments like Forum
Przestrzenie (ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, I-4) and Fabryka
(now defunct, but re-opening soon in...Tytano!). The
citys young urbanites are looking for places that reflect
their generations interests, talents, aesthetics and values,
and Tytano - essentially a miniature city within the urban
landscape, designed and curated by their peers - does
that much better than Gothic churches and Renaissance
palaces, royal feasting restaurants and nostalgic prewar
cafes, leftover communist-era canteens or the sloppy
cellar bars they patronised as students. In a city dominated
by historical monuments and tourists, it can be hard to
find space for urban creativity and expression, but Tytano
has provided one.
MONUMENTAL HERITAGE
Of course a case could be made that Tytano itself is
a historical monument. Originally called Kaiserliche
Koenigliche Tabakfabrik (CK Rzdowa Fabryka Tytoniu
in Polish), the cigarette manufacturing complex dates
back to 1876 - a time when Krakw was under the rule
of Franz Josef I as part of Austro-Hungarian Galicia. It
remained in operation for over 125 years, surviving
two world wars, the communist era and the transition
to democracy. For several years at the turn of the 20th
century it was the largest factory in Krakw, employing
over 1000 workers, 90% of whom were women. A
property of American tobacco giant Philip Morris
producing Gwarant cigarettes, Marlboros, cigars and
chewing tobacco at the time of its closure in 2002, the
manufacturing space was sold to a Spanish company Immobiliaria Camins - who came close to turning it into
a giant hotel and apartment complex worth 150 million
zoty before the plans fell through. Today it represents
the largest uniformly designed industrial complex
remaining in the city centre.
RAISING THE TYTANIC

After the demolition of the former Miraculum cosmetics
factory in Zabocie - which had for several years hosted
art studios, start-ups and cultural venues like the
aforementioned Fabryka - the search was on for a space
that could replace it. The former cigarette factory fit the
bill, exceeded it in fact, and the Tytano Foundation
(tytano.org) was formed by Ania Maria Kwiatek and
ukasz Kumecki - two local visionaries intent on
turning the unused space into an Urban Ecosystem
of Ideas - their name for a project that would integrate
local businesses and community initiatives in food,
nightlife, art, culture, design and entrepreneurship to
create a small city within the city. They succeeded in
renting the entire complex from the Spanish owners (the
contract runs until 2020) and announced an invitation/
competition last winter for local business proposals
interested building a creative community there. The
response was overwhelming, with everything from
climbing centres to music recording studios being put
forward.
The results are already in motion and since early summer
weve been enjoying the gradual transformation of
this space, as new hangouts have seemingly opened
one after another - each straining to be more hip than
their predecessor - alongside a steady series of outdoor
concerts and film screenings. Below we list the most
interesting commercial businesses that have opened
at Tytano in just the last four months, but the site isnt
destined to only be a giant pod of bars, shops and
restaurants. Confirmed non-commercial ventures that are
coming soon include a photography gallery, film studio
and independent cinema, and a rich cultural programme
has been planned for the entire winter. Whatever the case
at the time you arrive, Tytano has already asserted itself
as a must-visit destination for anyone who wants to see
the young, inspired, innovative, entrepreneurial side of
Krakw.
RESTAURANTS & CAFES

BONJOUR CAVA
This well-admired, local chain of cafes has infiltrated
Tytano to give the grungy, post-industrial party complex
a place for earlybirds, cakelovers, laptoppers and
quicheaters. Again, the charmingly eclectic, colourful,
chapeau-tipping design succeeds in creating a cosy
space to relax, work or refuel. On offer is excellent coffee,
ice cream, savoury pies and frittatas, French pastries, daily
lunch specials and a dangerous display case of desserts.
As this is Tytano, theres plenty of seating outside, and
(unlike their other locations) they also serve wine.
Exactly what a cafe should be, youll also find them at
ul. Warszawska 16 (J-2), ul. Pisudskiego 5 (A-3) and ul.
Koo Strzelnicy 2.QA2, ul. Dolnych Mynw 10, www.
bonjour-cava.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6GSW
Tytano
of excellent, healthy, vegan and gluten-free breakfasts, soups,
pastas, desserts, fruit smoothies and green cocktails. Among
the menus gorgeously presented, quickly-served temptations
are mango soup with lime sorbet (amazing), kohlrabi carpaccio
with soy foam, and kale cocktails. Paired with eco-wines and
craft beers, its impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself
to the top of the list of Krakws vegetarian restaurants.QA2, ul.
Dolnych Mynw 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www.veganic.
com.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (20-30z). T6GSW
NIGHTLIFE
Midzymiastowa
NEW
MIDZYMIASTOWA
Gin lovers, beware - this is your lair. Aimed at Krakws
growing upper-middle class, MM flaunts a now-familiar postindustrial upscale-urban interior with huge factory windows,
two bars and an emphasis on pricey gin mixers and wine.
Theres also a metropolitan menu of eats - everything from
gourmet breakfasts to pizza and pasta to burgers and beef
steak. Although the menu is overpriced and lacks focus,
however, the chefs clearly know what theyre doing; our duck
breast was delicious (much better than our smoothie, in
fact). An attractive after-work drinks destination for Krakws
young professionals, unless youre a gin devotee, however,
youll actually be here for the food.QA2, ul. Dolnych
Mynw 10/7A, www.miastowa.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (19-75z). T6GSW
MR. PANCAKE
A temple to American overindulgence, Mr. Pancake goes allin with a diet-busting menu of heart debilitating burgers,
pancakes and milkshakes. This territory has been trod before
(practically trampled, in fact), but Mr. Pancake takes it to
new extremes of caloric possibility, incorporating American
food products like Pop Tarts, Marshmallow Fluff and M&Ms
into menu inventions like Oreo pancakes (with crumbled
cookies in the actual batter) and Brownie Pop pancakes
(with Nutella, Pop Tarts, Hersheys syrup and ice cream).
We went the Egg & Bacon pancakes route, and actually
ended up wishing for more eggs and bacon. Still, despite
crude hashtags like #foodporn and #fuckdiet, well admit
we enjoy the artery-clogging concept, and the burgers are
pretty great. Adjoining is the Bifor bar (which hosts DJs and
stays open late on Fri, Sat), where you can neck a brew and
listen to Kendrick Lamar, or, more appropriately, order a Dr.
Pepper and spend some time with your friends trying to
figure out just what exactly that drink is...QA2, ul. Dolnych
Mynw 10, tel. (+48) 690 86 92 47. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. T6EGSW
MASH ROOM
This Tytano venue is essentially a cocktail dive bar, whose
slightly psychedelic interior includes black-lit string art and
an odd ceiling canopy made of plastic cups. The only place
in town to offer draught cocktails, youll find four signature
mixers on tap - including the Mash Mule: vodka, kaffir lime,
ginger, lemongrass and the beer of your choice - with sizes
ranging from tumbler (12z) to carafe (28z). Eight other
delicious long drinks (16z) and Czech beer round out the
libations list, and they have a tasty tapas bar that serves hot
and cold dishes (olives, chicken satay, marinated tofu) all
night. DJs hit the decks on weekends and the party occupies
all of the surrounding area, so mix yourself in.QA2, ul.
Dolnych Mynw 10/7B, tel. (+48) 530 05 35 51. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00
- 01:00. EGW
NEW
STREFA
Seemingly the most straightforward of present Tytano
venues, theres more to Strefa than one first assumes. At
first glance you essentially have a dimly lit, two-storey dive
bar with good beer and occasional DJ nights. Upon your
second trip to the bar you realise that they really know their
wine and offer a dangerous selection of wine cocktails. On
your third trip you realise theres an entire menu of eclectic
food - from horsemeat tatar to pizza and seafood - and
that theyre open early for breakfast; if you make it here
before beer-o-clock youll even enjoy Chemex brewed
coffee. Weve yet to make our fourth trip, but when we do
well anticipate something unanticipated.QA2, Dolnych
Mynw 10/2C. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 6GW
VEGANIC
An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano
complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for
a romantic dinner, and an enormous garden for hipsters
hangabouts (and even a playground for their spawn!). A
great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range
Tytano
Wee Krafta
WEE KRAFTA
Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Wee
is Krakws largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in
rotation on draught and an additional 50 in bottles. With an
industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting
the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse
for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys.
Even when crowded, however, Wee feels like a cool oasis
of civil camaraderie, far from the din of the city. One of the
citys trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your
ale, you should absolutely seek it out.QA2, ul. Dolnych
Mynw 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.
ontap.pl. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 6GW
SHOPPING
FORUM DESIGNU
Freshly relocated into the trendy Tytano complex - a former
tobacco factory turned urban design centre, this large, spacious
showroom for Polish interior design and home accessories
is one of the most fashionable places in town. Though some
European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on
unique local design using sustainable production methods,
and the result is a gorgeous, not-at-all petite sales boutique. An
added bonus is the attached Forum Mody fashion showroom,
and together they organise numerous design fairs, workshops
and other events throughout the year.QA2, ul. Dolnych
Mynw 10, tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.forumdesignu.
com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
FORUM MODY
Intent on familiarising yourself with cutting-edge Polish fashion
design? This large boutique located in a former tobacco factory
has the kind of location that makes you feel more hip and
stylish just by shopping there. Here youll find dozens of racks
exclusively showcasing Polish designers and brands, including
clothing, jewellery, accessories and shoes. For interior design
and home decor, look no further than the adjacent Forum
Designu showroom.QA2, ul. Dolnych Mynw 10, tel. (+48)
604 05 64 77. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
NEW
METQA PERCEPTION BOX
More than just a Polish fashion showroom with an
odd name, Metqa is a concept store that actually has
quite a few ideas (perhaps too many). Here the staff
carefully curate not only the strictly Polish clothing
labels on sale, but also the fragrances experienced by
shoppers, and the indie playlist on the stereo. Tablets
are available in the store where customers can find info
on all the brands in stock, and give feedback directly to
the designers. A professional stylist and make-up artist
are also on-hand to help you compose new outfits, and
accentuate your look with cosmetics. If that sounds a
bit like the beauty department of a high-tech, high-end
boutique, bear in mind that its located in a repurposed
factory space, and that most of the displays involve
plywood and palettes (of course). All budgets, tastes,
trends and types are represented - from sequined frocks
to wooden bowties to kids pajamas, and all told, Metqa
isnt so different from the nearby Forum Mody. Together
theyve made Tytano the citys best destination for
discovering Polish fashion design.QA2, ul. Dolnych
Mynw 10, tel. (+48) 519 05 38 12, www.metqa.pl.
Open 14:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00
- 19:00.
LOST SOULS ALLEY

NEW
LOST SOULS ALLEY - DEADLY WALK
Building off the terrifying success of their original
house of horrors at ul. Floriaska 6 (C-3), the outfit
behind Lost Souls Alley has opened a second
nightmare asylum in the long-abandoned and
thoroughly creepy basements of Tytano - a former
tobacco factory just outside the Old Town. With
this perfect setting in mind, we can only imagine
what horrors lay in waiting, and rumours are that
this new experience is even longer, more cleverly
designed and dreadfully disturbing than the original.
If haunted house makes you think of campy Scooby
Doo creatures and jump scares, this is not that kind
of haunted house, but rather one that awakens
your basic instinct of fear with claustrophobic and
psychologically demented situations inspired by
modern horror films and thrillers. In groups of 2-6
people, youll be locked in the factory basements
and have to work together to solve puzzles in order
to escape through a series of 16 rooms and corridors.
Doing so typically takes 40mins, reservations are wise,
and we recommend it for anyone 15 and over who
wants one of the most memorable scares of their life.
QA2, ul. Dolnych Mynw 10, tel. (+48) 666 97 79
67, www.deadlywalk.com. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri
15:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Prices range from 27-45z/per person depending
on how many are in your group.
Arrival & Transport
Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with

a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently
modernised joint train and bus station on the edge
of the Old Town, and some of Polands better roads
connecting it to Katowice, Wrocaw and Berlin to
the west, Tarnw and Rzeszw to the east, Kielce and
Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The
city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use public
transportation system, which some visitors wont even
find necessary thanks to most attractions being within
easy walking distance of one another (not to mention
walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Krakw).
In this section youll find all you need to know about
getting in and out of Krakw, as well as around the city
with general ease.
BY PLANE
KRAKW AIRPORT
Located 17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport
was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which
resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger
terminal in September 2015. The newly expanded
and modernised T1 passenger terminal now handles
all airport operations and conveniently connects
directly to the parking garage, the Hilton Garden Inn
hotel next to it, and the new Balice train station via a
skywalk leading straight into the terminal. Terminal
1 boasts the full services and amenities of a modern
airport, including ATMs and currency exchange, tourist
information, restaurants and shops, new business
lounges and VIP services. Note that car rental is now
located in the multi-storey parking garage across from

the terminal. Though some construction is on-going,
getting through check-in and security should be
relatively speedy; nonetheless, travellers should give
themselves some extra time to navigate any confusion
or unexpected delays.
GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The best way to get between the airport and
Krakws Old Town is by train. Trains run reliably
every 30mins between 04:00 and 24:00, departing
from platform 3 of Krakws train station (check
rozklad-pkp.pl for exact departure times). The
journey time is about 18mins, and passengers are
dropped off at a new Balice station that is right near
the airport terminal. Tickets are 8z, and can be bought
from ticket machines on the platform, or on-board the
train.
In the unlikely event that you cant take the train,
public buses 252 (departs every 40mins) and 208 (once
an hour) also journey to the centre, as does night bus
902 (hourly departures beginning at 23:21). Bus is
the cheaper option, but the journey takes 35-45mins
depending on traffic. Buy a 4/2z single journey fare from
the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus.
Upon leaving Terminal 1, youll find the bus stop to your
right. To get to the airport, buses depart from the Krakw
Bus Station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) at the stop Dworzec
Gwny Wschd - located on the lower level of the bus
station, just east of the train station. Exact bus times can
be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl.
Arrival & Transport

AIRPORT TAXIS
The airport has its own Krakow Airport Taxi service with
vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea is
that this trusted service offers a set price range of 69-89z
from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business
and no night time price hikes. In reality, this service is
fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously high prices. If
you go more than 15km the price jumps from 69z to 89z,
so expect to pay 89z unless your hotel is en route on the
outskirts of the city centre. We advise confirming the fare
for the 25-35min journey beforehand, and trying to split
the cost with other travellers in the same situation.
Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport
range from only 35-70z depending on time of day, and
whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our
Taxi listings (p.14) and you should be able to negotiate a
daytime fare as low as 40z from the Old Town. Thats a huge
difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
58 00, www.krakowairport.pl.
BY BUS
KRAKW BUS STATION
Although somewhat integrated into the Krakw Glwny
underground transportation centre, Krakw retains its
own separate bus station, located directly east of the
train platforms. The small building comprises two floors
with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside
the top floor of the bus station youll find the main ticket
windows (tickets can also be bought downstairs), a 24hour toilet, food vendors, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM
(bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00).
Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15z (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a
separate night time waiting room.
Those arriving to Krakw by bus will find taxis nearby on
both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to
public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct
way into the Old Town is through the underground Krakw
Gwny; once youre inside this labyrinth follow the clearly
marked signs for Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to exit in the
direction of the market square.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour
journey. For exact departure times check the website which
is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for
getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and
Niepoomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus
station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska
at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a
short walk away, follow signs to ul. Pawia into and out of
the shopping mall to get there.QE1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel.
(+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ground
floor ticket office open 07:00 - 19:45. Level -1 ticket
office open 05:00 - 22:00.
We offer transfers to and from

Cracow airport - 69PLN
www.krakowairporttransfer.pl
We also offer one-day trips

from Cracow to:
Auschwitz, Wieliczka Salt Mine,
Zakopane and the
Tatra Mountains
www.bestkrakowtours.pl
phone: +48 662 905 905
email: info@iqpd.pl
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
KRAKW AIRPORT TRANSFER
As noted elsewhere, taxi service from the airport
to the Old Town is a bit of a racket. Skip it by using
this business class transport service ( call 662 905
905) that actually sticks to the promised 69z fare,
no matter where youre headed in the centre,
what time it is, or which day of the week. Enjoy
the thrill of being greeted at Arrivals by a welldressed and English-speaking chauffeur holding
a card with your name on it, before climbing
into a Mercedes and getting out at the door of
your destination. Larger vehicles are available for
groups, and in addition to Krakw and Katowice
airports, this outfit can arrange transport all
across PL, and also nearby capitals like Prague
and Berlin; daytrips to Auschwitz, Wieliczka and
Zakopane are also organised.Qtel. (+48) 662 90
59 05, www.krakowairporttransfer.pl.
KRAKOW SHUTTLE
Krakw and Katowice airport transfers at a good value,
as well as tours of hard to reach sights in and outside
the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). Call their 24hr infoline
for bookings and assistance.Qtel. (+48) 510 56 00 00,
www.krakowshuttle.com.
11
Arrival & Transport

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
JAKDOJADE:
Despite the fact that Krakws
tram and bus network is
incredibly easy to use, even
for foreigners, well still
admit to being a bit put off
from using it at first; that
is until we discovered the
veritable skeleton key to
unlocking public transport:
the
krakow.jakdojade.pl
website and the jakdojade
app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool
for advance planning, but the app is more practical
for figuring out how to get from point A to B once
youre out in town and away from your computer.
Just type in your starting address (the app does this
automatically) and destination, or pin the locations
on a map; select the time you want to depart or
arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the
best method for you to get there. Finished at the
museum and want to head back to the hotel? This
app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on,
lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which
ticket to buy. Its brilliant and absolutely worth the
couple euros youll spend to download it. For those
who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you
can also find timetables and network maps at mpk.
krakow.pl.
ITAXI:
If you dont have the patience
for public transport in the first
place, theres a nifty app for
ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl.
iTaxi allows you to compare
rates, arrival times, car models
and more, sending the cab of
your choice to your location
without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all,
the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so theres no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
UBER:
Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but
the company is investing heavily in Krakw specifically,
currently building its first-ever Regional Centre of
Excellence in PLs ancient capital, which will open in
2017 and serve as their European hub. If youre already
an Uber user, youll find that the alternative taxi service
- whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash,
no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage
across Krakw and all of Poland.
BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project,
Krakw Gwny - the catch-all title of the citys vast
underground transportation centre - now offers easy
transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course
the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly
integrated, and along with modern conveniences like
waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, youll also find
plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including
cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more.
With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction,
its all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear
not - IYP will help you sort it out.
SERVICES
Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever
expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the
sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Krakw train station.
In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are
also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you
get lost and cant find your way out for several days. 24
ticket windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated
ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit
the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled,
there are several waiting areas (including a place for
first-class ticket holders to quarantine themselves), a
tourist information office (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency
exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food
and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria
Krakowska shopping mall.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old
Town, Krakw Gwny is within easy walking distance of
most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis
largely unnecessary. If youre travelling further than you
care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number
19 in the direction of Borek Facki stops at Miodowa (E5) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by
following signs underground to Dworzec Gwny Tunel.
Further tram stops are located just outside the station
exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark
your train immediately head up rather than down from the
platform and youll find yourself on the top floor parking
garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away.
Arrival & Transport

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering
into the Old Town is dreamy - youll find that getting out
of the station is now a bit of a challenge. There are at least
four exits and its wise to choose the correct one, based on
where you want to go. Following signs to ul. Pawia will lead
you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the
words of Admiral Ackbar: Its a traaap!). Signs to Dworzec
Autobusowy or ul. Bosacka will put you on the east side of
the transport complex (further from the market square).
If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, its
only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the
platforms to the old Magda tunnel, rather than the escalators
into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase
just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end
up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked
signs to Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to escape. Once outside,
cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria
Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow
the crowds through the underpass (D-2); bear right and enjoy
a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making
a left on Floriaska Street at the Barbican (D-2) and youre on
the Path of Kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
DEPARTING BY TRAIN
With the train station having been completely moved
underground, theres no longer a clear-cut main entrance,
but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly
underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use
those as your geographical targets and youll find your way;
you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.
Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all
around the train station. If you take the tram or bus to the
Dworzec Gowny stop you will end up somewhere near the
intersection of Basztowa/Lubicz and Pawia/Westerplatte
streets (D-2, there are several stops at this intersection);
head through the underpass (if necessary) and across the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska to the train platforms.
If you take the tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny Zachd (D1), enter Galeria Krakowska, descend one level and follow
the signs.
If you take the tram to Dworzec Gwny Tunel (E-1) you are
basically already in the underground transport centre - just
follow signs to the train platforms.
Finally, if you take a tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny
Wschd (E-1) navigate yourself through the roundabout
toward the buses and you will see the main entrance of the
new train station. All of these are perfectly good options, it
just depends where you are coming from.
Station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow
timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check
the timetables online at the Polish railways website rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English
language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular
train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also
be bought on board the train from the conductor, but
expect a surcharge.QE1, ul. Pawia 5A, tel. (+48) 22 39
19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance,
seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing
less frequently after that. Check official timetables and
network maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has
English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A
to point B via jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site
and transport app (see p.12). Seriously, this service is why
we no longer find it useful to print a tram map in our guide.
Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket
machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most
trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on
boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket
machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of
those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have
some change handy
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal
for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgrze. If
youre going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80z.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00z are also options. Note that those
over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages
must be proven with ID). ISIC and Euro <26 Student cards
are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry
your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket
immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small
machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines
handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and
are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously,
riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your
entire trip to Krakw.
13
Arrival & Transport

BY CAR
The Trabant - produced in East Germany from 1957-1990,

and today a symbol of the collapse of the Soviet Union
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result
in the common sight of accidents and traffic jams around
the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the
vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. Cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer.
EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long
as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving),
however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the Vienna
Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their
licences technically invalid (though this has never been a
problem for anyone we know).
The A4 highway runs right through Krakw connecting it to
Berlin (via Katowice and Wrocaw) to the west and Rzeszw
to the east (via Tarnw). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10z toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the
direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating thanks
to frequent roadwork, one-way streets, permit-only streets,
and high traffic volume; parking is yet another challenge.
As such we recommend you ditch your vehicle for public
transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is
available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks,
and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass
from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins,
of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and
place it on the drivers side of your dashboard. The cost of
street parking is 3z for the first hour, 3.50z for the second,
4.10z for the third, and after that back to 3z. Public parking
lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide.
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure it is clearly marked with a company
name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker
demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally
obliged to give you a printed receipt at journeys end
further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You
can expect a standard fare to be about 7z plus about 2.30z
per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares
increase by up to 50%.
For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the
rooftop parking lot of the train station, and outside the
airport where Krakw Airport Taxi has a monopoly on
service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89z for
the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers
in the same predicament.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if youre Polish, the driver
may not expect one. But double standards being what they
are, its anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We
leave it to you.
Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

taxi companies) is also now available in Poland, and has
in fact chosen Krakw as its European hub. Uber (uber.
com) offers one-tap, no-cash-necessary transport via their
popular worldwide mobile application. Those already
familiar with Uber will find Krakw well-covered by the
service.
BARBAKAN TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
ICAR
Qtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu.
MEGA TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
RADIO TAXI 919
Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Arrival & Transport

CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot
legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle
from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know
from borrowing their girlfriends car, or renting one for that
matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a
rental car.
Internationally trusted service
offering a range of vehicles
from two-door sedans to
luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station,
with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at ul. Wita
Stwosza 4 (open 08:00 - 22:00). Also at the airport
(open 06:00 - 24:00).QJ2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601
20 07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00, or by prior arrangment.
A wide range of
cars including BMW,
Skoda, Kia, Opel and
Nissan. All cars are
equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation
systems are also available. Special rates offered to those
who order through the Joka website.QD2, ul. Zacisze
7 (3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.
joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. Outside of these hours on request.
EUROPCAR
Offering both short and long term rental options with
9 different categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your
specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish
airports including Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ4, ul.
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96,
www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Polish Fiat, or Maluch - produced in PL from 1972-2000;

considered a family car during the communist era.
15
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
TERRITORY
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of September 14,
2016 based on 1 = 4.30z
LONGEST RIVER
Krakw is split by the Vistula (Wisa) River. At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask.
HIGHEST POINT
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. By comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
POPULATION (2016)
Poland - 38,483,957
Warsaw - 1,744,400
Krakw - 761,100 d - 700,982
Wrocaw - 635,800 Pozna - 542,300
Gdask - 462,249 Katowice - 301,834
LOCAL TIME
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in
New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin
and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs)
starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and
October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 130. If
youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories
of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by
calling a private clinic (p.131), thus avoiding the hassle of
the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of
which youll find on page 130.
McDonald's Big Mac

Snickers candy bar
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
Pack of Marlboro cigarettes
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.50 z
1.49 z
26.99 z
2.69 z
9.00 z
1.99 z
15.50 z
5.06 z
3.80 z
2.21
0.35
6.28
0.63
2.09
0.46
3.60
1.18
0.88
LAW & ORDER

In general Krakw is far safer than most West European
cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if
youre in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your
trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around.
Perhaps the biggest danger in Krakw is posed by groups
of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided
and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should
be suspicious of young women who take an overactive
interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance
of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink
charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined
to make an idiot of yourself then make sure its not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of
geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to complete
prats whove thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their
trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested
the patience of local law enforcement, which is now
decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Krakws premier drunk tank on
ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as Entertainment
Street), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue
pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants.
Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of
course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see p.13) and, silly as
it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which
doesnt have or respect jaywalking laws, youll be surprised
City Basics
to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this
little rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska)
will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road
at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine when
the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and
your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the
fine on the spot.
LANGUAGE SMARTS
MONEY
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of

the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the

100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very
wary of kantors at the airport, train station and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the
best rate. For a list of kantors in Krakw that wont rip you
off, see page 130.
Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the
rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten
years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink,
cultural venues and transport still remain comparably
cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema
typically costs 15-25z, while admission to most museums
costs around 5-15z.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking
to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the Church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. Krakws own Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Krakws many
churches that these arent museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be

terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Krakw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon

sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases

Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
17
Basic History
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves
that there were settlements
in the Krakw area as early as
the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill
dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the
mythical ruler who vanquished
the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds
named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in
the Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date
the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the
8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as
the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record
of the citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy
commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the
Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule
before being incorporated into the principality of the
Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom
of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own
bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Krakw became the
capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming
the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked
by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241
when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and
1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was
surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers
and gates which would be modernised over the next few
centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be
incorporated into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and
sciences, in 1364 he founded the Krakw Academy, now
known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest
institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity
continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello
dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its golden
age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive
new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks,
and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance
architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring
times the citys fortunes began to turn with the death
of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the
throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Krakws
importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund IIIs
decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596;
however Krakw maintained its role as the official site of
royal coronations and burials.
Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black
Death that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th
century, Poland passed the worlds second democratic
constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only
days later the countrys more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded
and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on
the weakened country; a second partition transpired
twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputation as a
bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794,
Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated
his famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it
eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into
the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was
partitioned a third time (1795) and Krakw became part
of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where
they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that
imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and
as a result Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism,
culture and art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city
was also modernised during this time with running water,
electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being
installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th
century.
View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
Basic History
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was
besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to
flee the city. Krakw became the first Polish city liberated
from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned
revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed
the city in advance of the wars end. The Treaty of
Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish
state in over a century, however twenty years later in
September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Krakw,
setting up command of their General Government (the
Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be
purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel
Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University
were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps
in what is known as Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish
population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto
in the Podgrze district, with the Liban and Paszw
work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish
ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000
and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated
on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the
city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive
almost completely intact.
Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around
the countrys largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an
attempt to weaken Krakws intellectual and artistic
heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five
years of communism followed, including a year and a
half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent
trade union gathered enough momentum to force free
elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the first
post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the
first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year
Krakws archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first
non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation,
today Krakw is arguably Polands most important
historical and cultural artefact. In 2015 the city was visited
by over 10 million tourists.
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
966: First written record of the city
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: First royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
Wadysaw the Short
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of
the Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski defeats the Ottoman
Empire in the Battle of Vienna, saving Christian
Europe
1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
August III
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Krakw after the failed
Kociuszko Uprising
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgrze
1942: Paszw concentration camp established in
Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz
added to the UNESCO World Heritage List;
Karol Wojtya inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Free elections in PL; Communist regime
crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to be named
European Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to
participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2010: 96 Polish delegates die in a plane crash
near Smolesk, Russia, including President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria, who are
controversially buried in the Wawel Royal Crypts
2013: Krakw is designated UNESCO City of
Literature
2016: Krakw hosts Pope Francis and millions of
pilgrims during World Youth Day
19
Culture & Events
Conrad Festival | Photo: Grzegorz Ziemianski www.fotohuta.pl
CINEMAS
ARS CINEMA
QC3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.
ars.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first
showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets
10-20z.
CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
QJ3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets
17-33z.
IMAX KRAKW
QL2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the
first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 17-35z.
KINO POD BARANAMI
QC3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.
kinopodbaranami.pl. Box office open 45 minutes
before the first showtime until 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 11.90-22z. N
BALLET & DANCE

29.10 - 30.10 TWO STORIES - ONE DANCE
The choreography of Jacek Tyski will be performed with

the sound of Peter Orzechowskis original music and the
backdrop of the gorgeous Krakw Opera, itself. Through
the language of dance and the schism of two diverging

styles on stage, the artists will immerse their audience into
a coming of age story filled with pitfalls and unexpected
pursuits.QE2, Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12
296 62 62, Tickets 80z, www.opera.krakow.pl. 18:30.
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
20.11 19:00 MICHEL LEGRAND
French music legend Michel Legrand is turning 85 next

year and already preemptively embarking on an 85th
Anniversary Worldwide Tour. With 200 film and TV scores,
three Academy Awards, and five Grammys to his name,
the composer and pianist has been one of the most
prolific of his time.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre (ICE),
ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.com/pl.
Tickets 249-329z. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik
(Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00)
EXHIBITIONS
15.09 - 09.10 I REMEMBER THE SZTETL
This exhibit focuses on Polish-Jewish artist Chaim Goldberg

(1917-2004), who was born in the small shtetl of Kazimierz
Dolny (some 250km north-east of Krakw). Discovered at
the age of 14, Goldberg attended Krakws Mehoffer Art
Academy before becoming the youngest student accepted
to the Warsaw Academy of Fine Art in 1934. Escaping
from a Nazi labour camp and surviving WWII in self-exile
Culture & Events

in Siberia, he returned to Poland, later emigrating to Israel
and then the United States. Upon seeing the destruction of
Jewish heritage in Poland in 1946 he decided to dedicate
his artistic energy to creating a memorial to the lost world
of his youth, creating some 1800 works depicting pre-war
Jewish life in Poland. His large, colourful paintings revealing
everyday shtetl life and landscapes, religious practise and
celebrations, and Holocaust tragedy were motivated
by a profound sense of purpose and present a perfect
accompaniment to the Jewish historical landmarks of
Krakws Kazimierz district. The exhibit is presented in Polish
and English.QB2, Palace of the Arts, Pl. Szczepaski 4,
tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, Tickets 10/5z, www.palac-sztuki.
krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
EARL THOMAS
07.07 - 30.10 THE LARGEST LEGO SHOW

IN POLAND
Get nostalgic for the freedom and creativity of childhood

while gazing at incredible Lego structures created from
million of tiny pieces. With hundreds of displays spanning an
area of 1700m2, Lego aficionados small and large will leave
more than satisfied.QJ3, Galeria Kazimierz, ul. Podgrska
34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, Tickets 14-21z, www.
wystawaklockow.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
20.08 - 20.11 VAN GOGH ALIVE

THE EXPERIENCE
This is Van Gogh in all his colourful, expressive glory - a

sensory experience with large-scale moving graphics and
theatre-quality sound, which will allow you to step into
some of the masters paintings while listening to narration.
Event takes place at Pl. Jana Nowaka-Jezioraskiego
3 J.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets 30-60z. Available
at www.vangoghalive.pl and box office.
23.07 - 30.11 REMBRANDT.

LANDSCAPE WITH THE GOOD SAMARITAN
Krzysztof cieraski
Piotr Orzechowski
The following exhibition will present the iconic portraits

of Prof. Dr. Karol Gilewski and Szymon Darowski alongside
sketches by the famous Cracovian painter, Jan Matejko.
Painted on large-scale canvas, the portraits bestow seemingly
life-like qualities onto noble figures of 19th century Poland.
QD3, Jan Matejko House, ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12
433 59 60, Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16
and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
fot. Marek Knap
15.07 - 31.12 A DISPLAY OF WORKS

BY JAN MATEJKO
Delta
Two Stories - One Dance

29, 30 October 2016
choreographer Jacek Tyski
Remember Rembrandt? Rembrandt Harmenszoon van

Rijn (16061669) is a Dutch oil painter known for his
iconic landscapes and theological considerations. His
long-awaited Landscape with the Good Samaritan is
available for viewing at the Gallery of Ancient Art.QC2,
Gallery of Ancient Art, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 370 54
60, Admission 13/8z, familly ticket 22z, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
21
Culture & Events

INT. CULTURAL CENTRE
Photo by p.Mazur.
16.09 - 27.11 KOICE MODERNISM
Out of the cultural cross-roads of Koice in the 1920s was

born an artistic community deeply influenced by facets
of modern art, existentialism, and social developments
in industrialization, international relations, sport, and caf
society. The Slovak city represents the epicentre of central
European avant-garde. Its inhabitants artwork is now
available for viewing in Krakw.QC3, International
Cultural Centre, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424
28 11, Admission 10/6z, family ticket 14z. Tue, Wed
between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1z. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, www.mck.krakow.pl.
02.09 - 08.01 (DIS)BELIEVING YOUR EYES
Seeing is believing. However, the (DIS)BELIEVING YOUR

EYES exhibition questions this notion. Designed with a
number of perceptual tricks and colourful illusions, the
exhibition tackles the serious subject of perceiving reality in
a curiously light manner. Thanks to the curation collective
Monika Kozie, Aneta Kopczacka, Zbigniew Prokop, and
Piotr Lutyski, Cracovians will be able to enjoy the eyeopening experience, starting this autumn.QH1, History
of Photography Museum, ul. Jzefitw 16, tel. (+48) 12
634 59 32, Admission 8/5z, Sun free, www.mhf.krakow.
pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. Closed
Mon, Tue.
21.09 - 31.12 KACH-GA. FLOWERS AND

BIRDS IN JAPANESE AND WESTERN ART
This unique exhibit at the Manggha Museum of Japanese Art

and Technology will deconstruct both Eastern and Western
depictions of nature in culture. From the paintings of
Stanisaw Wyspiaski to the prints of Hiroshige, the thematic
core of the exhibition will encompass a world of aesthetic
sensibilities. The conceptual underpinnings of Kach-ga
stretch far beyond strict aesthetics, however, entering both
philosophical and theological realms.QB6, Manggha,
ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, Admission
20/15z, family ticket 35z, children age 7-16 1z, Tue free,
www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
11.10 - 25.10 THE LISTENER
Through wireless technologies, The Listener picks

up information from your mobile and whispers back
personalized secrets. The haunting installation of Wesley
Goatley questions the limits of modern day privacy and the
universal dependence on electronics in the digital age. Are
you listening?QB2, Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepaski 3a,
tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, Admission 12/6z, family ticket
20z; Tue free, www.patchlab.pl.
FAIR
30.09 - 09.10 THE BORDERLAND OF
CULTURES MARKET
Folk designers and regional craftsmen will occupy May

Rynek for the second time, already! Heres your chance to
experience the essence of true folk art and enjoy handmade regional cuisine. Strike up a conversation, eat some
pierogi, and enjoy the performers twirling to the rhythms
of traditional Polish tunes.QC3, May Rynek.
27.10 - 30.10 INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR
International CulturalCentre Gallery

Rynek Gwny 25, Krakw
TuesdaySunday 10.00 a.m.6 p.m.
www.mck.krakow.pl
What types of attractions would one expect in a UNESCO

City of Literature, such as Krakw? Lots of bookstores, and
a huge international book fair, surely. This October, book
worms will unite at Krakws EXPO centre over an extensive
selection of written material and meetings with writers. To
get there take trams 14, 174 or 178 to M1 Nowohucka or
Rondo 308. Dywizjonu, and follow the crowds.QEXPO
Krakw, ul. Galicyjska 9 (Czyyny). Tickets 8/6z, 4-day
pass 21z, www.ksiazka.krakow.pl.
Culture & Events

25.11 - 08.01 CHRISTMAS FAIR
One of the seasons most popular highlights is the annual

Christmas fair; its twinkling, old-fashioned magic is a huge
draw for tourists, and - we dare say - they wont leave Krakw
disappointed. Half of the Main Market Square is filled with
rustic wooden stalls offering Christmas ornaments, regional
crafts, pottery, furs, little angel figurines, woollen socks,
gingerbread, mulled wine and beer, delicious warm food,
and everything else you would expect at a holiday market
of this kind. Add a little snow (well see what the weather
serves up this December), and youve got yourself a little
winter wonderland, somewhat touristy and crowded,
perhaps, but perfectly charming nevertheless.QC3, Main
Market Square. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
FESTIVALS
01.10 - 08.10 SACRUM PROFANUM
Modern music tends to lean towards the realm of the

profane, but it contains the sacred element as well - after
all, it soothes the soul, doesnt it? Sacrum Profanum is an
annual festival that presents ambitious contemporary
music. This years guests will include TKorall Koral, John
Zorn, Witold Szalonek, Pierre Boulez and Marcin Staczyk.
QTickets 0-140z. Festival pass 200-350z. Available at
www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00)., www.
sacrumprofanum.com.
07.10 - 12.10 KRAKW THEATRICAL

REMINISCENCES
Dating back to the mid-seventies, in its 41th edition this

long-standing, still-evolving festival will be presenting
several performances and events showcasing a different
perspective on art, politics and society, bravely reflected
on the surrounding reality. Both Polish and foreign
theatre troupes will be participating in the contemporary
dance shows, film screenings, international workshops,
panel discussions, artist meetings, art walks through
urban residential space and so much more. The result is
as aesthetic as it is intellectual, setting out to entertain
the spectators as much as to ask them difficult questions
through theatre.QTickets 0-20z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and before the event, www.krt-festival.pl.
13.10 - 23.10 7XGOSPEL
Although Gospel music has its roots firmly in AfricanAmerican Christianity and the struggle for emancipation
and equal rights, over the last few decades its appeal has
spread all over the world and the genre has entered the
mainstream of music. This festival began in 1999 with a
successful inaugural meeting, and the Gospel Workshop
hasnt looked back since. Along the way it inspired many
to form new bands and groups, changing its name in 2003
to Gospel Music Week. In 2006 the title was changed again
to the 7xGospel Festival to reflect the diverse nature of the
events which then, and now, include lectures, seminars,
jam sessions, films, concerts, and workshops.QAdmission
0-35z, www.7xgospel.pl.
23
Culture & Events

16.10 - 22.10 INTERNATIONAL ROYAL
CRACOW PIANO FESTIVAL
Piano music devotees will have the opportunity to listen

to both musical masters and young prodigies in the Royal
Cracow Piano Festival, which aims to invite the worlds
piano elite into the city. The distinguished performers will
fill the audience with magical, musical emotions, as well as
artistic inspiration.QTickets 0-50z. Available at Krakw
Philharmonic box office, www.cracowpianofestival.
com.
16.10 - 23.10 UNSOUND FESTIVAL
Unsound is an underground-ish music festival with an

intellectual air. The aim is to pull the rug out from ones
expectations of the festival experience with unannounced
artists and performances in unexpected places, or as part of
unusual combinations. Weve gotta say, this air of mystery
has got us intrigued.QTickets 35-80z, festival pass 325385z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00), www.unsound.pl.
20.10 - 22.10 STUDENT SONG FESTIVAL
The Student Song Festival is the oldest cultural celebration

of dormitory life. Likewise, the song festival is one of the
oldest contests occurring in the city of Krakw. Continue
the tradition which originates in 1962 and witness the rise
of the newest musical star. Consider it the contemporary
enactment of a medieval X-Factor. But more fun.QA2,
Maopolska Garden of the Arts, ul. Szujskiego 6, Tickets
prices udecided at press time, www.studenckifestiwal.pl.
24.10 - 30.10 CONRAD FESTIVAL
Despite being named after the eminent writer Joseph

Conrad, a Pole who wrote exclusively in English, this festival
actually has little to do with him in particular. Instead, it is
a celebration of everything literary; a week-long meeting
with the worlds best authors, critics, and translators in
the hopes of arousing more interest in the written word
in a country where readership continues to decline. In
keeping with the festival patrons identity, the idea is to be
as international as possible and cater well to non-Polishspeaking guests.Qwww.conradfestival.pl.
26.10 - 30.10 GRECHUTA FESTIVAL
With his catchy spoken lyrics, roaring drinking habit

and rumoured schizophrenia, Marek Grechuta was the
embodiment of tortured genius. His place in Polish music
history is cast in stone think of this guy as the Polish Bob
Dylan - and so its of little surprise that a festival dedicated
exclusively to the sung poetry musician has sprung up in
Krakw.QTickets 0-100z. Available at www.eventim.pl
and InfoKrakw (Rynek Gwny 1/3 (Cloth Hall); open
09:00 - 19:00), www.grechutafestival.pl.
Whats going on?

facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Culture & Events

JAZZ & BLUES
22.10 20:00 EARL THOMAS
Between visits to recording studios and major music

festivals like Montreux Jazz, the Blues Ambassador is
checking in. With tunes inspired by his Tennessee roots
and a raspy voice as strong as hickory, this is a show that
can not be missed.QH3, aczek, Al. 3 Maja 5, Tickets
40/35z. Available at www.ticketportal.pl and before
the concert.
02.11 20:00 CANDY DULFER
Candy Dulfer is a Dutch smooth jazz and funk alto

saxophonist, and she really likes sax puns - or at least did
back in the nineties, if her album titles are any indication.
She was born in 1969 and started her music career reeeal
early, recording for her fathers band De Perikels at age
eleven. Her most recent album, Crazy, was released in
2011.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre (ICE), ul. Marii
Konopnickiej 17, Tickets 80-160z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
LIVE MUSIC
22.09 - 24.11 JAZZ POD BARANAMI
Piwnica Pod Baranami, a place where a number of Polish

writers had met in the past for their coffee and brews,
is now hosting Jazz Concerts on a regular basis, every
Thursday from 21:00 Jazz concerts in the Piwnica trace
back all the way back to the 60s! Groups like Beale
Street Band, Janusz Muniak, and Osjan are just some of
the artists which have performed here.QB3, Piwnica
Pod Baranami, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 01
77, Admission 15-25z, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl.
21:00 Every Thursday.
OPERA
20.10, 13.12 19:00 NATIONAL THEATRE
LIVE: THE THREEPENNY OPERA
The British Council and Multikino invites viewers to the

transmission of a new adaptation of Berthold Brecht and
Kurt Weills landmark of musical theatre, The Threepenny
Opera, by award-winning playwright Simon Stephens
(Port, The Curious Incident of the Dog in the NightTime), performed live at Londons National Theatre. Enjoy
a world-class performance from the cheap seats and
trade overpriced wine for some popcorn - Mack the Knife
is back in town. The show will be streaming on October
20th and December 13th.QL1, Multikino, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 128, tel. (+48) 12 298 46 24, Tickets 38z, www.
multikino.pl.
CONCERTS
FREE ENTRY
Get the In Your Pocket

City Essentials App
& other events
INAUGURAL Tyree Morris & H.O.W 13 X 19.30

WORSHIP NIGHT 15 X 19.00
KIDS CAN GOSPEL 16 X 15.00
DRUMMING STREET PERFORMANCE 16 X 17.00
MEN IN BLACK CONCERT 16 X 18.00
GOSPEL AT NIGHT 19 X 20.00
GOSPEL AROUND THE WORLD 20 X 19.00
THE FINAL CONCERT

23
X 2016 18:00
Kino Kijw.Centrum
MEN IN BLACK / 18TH GOSPEL WORKSHOP IN CRACOW

SONG MOVEMENT JOY / HANDS OF WORSHIP
MAMA GOSPEL & Christopher Mazen / Shara McKee
TICKETS: 35 z
available at:
BIURO STOWARZYSZENIA GOSPEL

al. Daszyskiego 15a/10, Krakw
tel.: 609 413 202
e-mail: biuro@gospel.com.pl
KINO KIJW.CENTRUM
WORKSHOPS
/ for mums
/ children
/ men
/ seniors
/ choreographic
/ drumming
/ choral
al. Krasiskiego 34, Krakw

tel.: 12 433 00 33
KSIGARNIA PAGANINI
ul. Batorego 19, Krakw
tel.: 12 423 42 77
facebook.com/7xgospel and www.7xgospel.pl

ORGANIZATOR:
PARTNERZY:
Stowarzyszenie
Gospel
PATRONAT HONOROWY:
Prezydent Miasta Krakowa

Jacek Majchrowski
PATRONI MEDIALNI:
Dofinansowano ze rodkw
Ministerstwa Kultury
i Dziedzictwa Narodowego
oraz Gminy Miejskiej Krakw
25
Culture & Events

ROCK & POP CONCERTS
Book
Fair
27th-30th October 2016

Krakow, Poland
09.10, 13.11 18:00 BEETHOVEN

ELECTRIC 3D
Witness the first Beethoven concert in Poland complete

with 3D Visualization Technologies! From the orchestra
and soloists of Filharmonia Futura comes a contemporary
rendition of some of Beethovens greatest pieces.QH3,
Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34. Tickets 75-115z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
10:00 - 21:00).
30.10 19:00 TEN YEARS AFTER
This legendary band first made headlines at the famous

Woodstock festival. Although the band has changed
members since then, the core concept is still strong - this band is still all about blues-rock and that classic
electric guitar, retaining the sound of its original star
Alvin Lee. Dont miss your chance to travel back in
time and re-live the golden age of blues-rock.QH3,
Rotunda, ul. Oleandry 1. Tickets 100-115z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska,
D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00).
06.11, 18.12, 19.03 18:00 SYMPHONICA 2

MADE IN POLAND
Enjoy Polish underground metal, rock, and punk of the

80s. These are the hits one wont hear on the radio. The
viewing will include climate-appropriate styling in an
impressive return to alternative communist times.QH3,
Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34. Tickets 75-115z.
10:00 - 21:00).
Guest of Honour
11.11 20:00 JUSTIN BIEBER
For all those Beliebers out there, youve heard right! Justin
Bieber will perform live at the TAURON Arena in Krakw
on the magical date, 11.11. Wishes do come true, after all.
QA/B7, Tauron Arena Krakw, ul. Stanisawa Lema 7,
Tickets 195-1000z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
To read you
need to be
open-minded
Etgar Keret
www.booksfair.krakow.pl
14.11 19:00 TOMMY EMMANUEL

FEAT. IAN COOPER
This artist from Australia is numbered among the finest

guitarist alive and his career spans 4 decades. In the 70s
and 80s he played with well-known Aussie band Dragon
and later worked with the likes of Stevie Wonder, Michael
Bolton and Eric Clapton, winning grammies along the
way. If youre into the details, he employs a finger-style
techinque similar to playing the piano, nice.QB4, Krakw
Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1. Tickets 130-170z.
10:00 - 21:00).
Culture & Events

SPECIAL EVENTS
19.09 - 30.11 GLASS FORMING SHOWS
See beautiful glass creations come alive before your eyes

at the Glass and Ceramics Centre on ul. Lipowa. Skilled
artisans will be demonstrating the five stages of glass
forming and answering all your questions. Check out the
exhibition when youre there, as well.QK4, Lipowa 3
Glass & Ceramics Centre, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423
67 90, Admission 14/12z. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun., www.lipowa3.pl.
28.11 19:00 YAMATO
Following on from their last successful trip, this famous

collection of Japanese drummers are visiting Poland once
again to give another series of concerts. The programme
involves... well... lots of drumming, mixed in with traditional
string instruments such as koto, chappa, shino-bue and
samisen. But its not just about the music - the energy
and humour of the musicians means theres never a
dull moment and the choreography and acrobatics add
extra spice.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre (ICE), ul.
Marii Konopnickiej 17, Tickets 135-195z. Available at
www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00)., www.
makroconcert.com/pl.
SPORT
16.10 11:00 CRACOVIA HALF-MARATHON
The 3rd PZU Royal Cracovian Half-Marathon is perfect for

those who arent quite ready for the full 42K. Work your way
up and youll be in for the scenic route: a number of historic
sites and charming alleys decorate the tracks design. Its time
to test your endurance and enjoy it, too.QRegistration fee
70-100z, www.pzucracoviapolmaraton.pl.
THEATRE
17.11, 12.01 19:00 THE ENTERTAINER
As part of the series British theatre on the big screen, this

time the audience will get to see on screen a transmission
of the hit play The Entertainer live from Garrick Theatre
in London. The main character of the play is Archie Rice,
a failing music-hall performer. The music halls are meant
to represent a declining Britain in 1957(ring a bell?). The
transmission will be in the original English with Polish
subtitles.QL1, Multikino, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel.
(+48) 12 298 46 24, Tickets 38/32z., www.multikino.pl.
22.12 19:00 NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE HAMLET
The National Theatre brings the stage to the big screen

again with the showing of Shakespeares Hamlet, starring
Academy Award Winner Benedict Cumberbatch. As we all
know, the classic story of revenge, tragedy, and war takes
centerstage in this ageless production.QL1, Multikino, ul.
Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel. (+48) 12 298 46 24, Tickets
38z, www.multikino.pl.
27
Restaurants
With a hot spiced beer (p.61) and views like these, who cares how cold it is?
With the development of the market in Krakw the number

of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the citys
culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still
waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French
tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants
to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip,
so fear not, you wont have to eat tyres.
While our print guide carries a wide selection of Krakws
most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
youve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in
brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses
on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
Wierzynek (p.54) is Krakws oldest and most upscale
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind (and nearby),
however, is the new Szara G (p.53), and veteran Pod
Anioami (p.52). The sophisticated wine lists and seasonal
cuisine of Copernicus (p.33) and Trzy Rybki (p.36) are also
in the conversation, while Szara (p.36) - with locales on the
market square and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.
CHEAP
A Polish milk bar (p.48) is as cheap as youll eat anywhere
in your life, but for a bit more atmosphere try Smakoyki
(p.53). If youre not a fan of Polish food, Primo (p.40) and
Zazie Bistro (p.31) are both excellent values.
LADS
Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king
for pauper prices in Bierhalle (p.33) or Restauracja
Sukiennice (p.52), where the food spills off the edges of
the plate. The choicest cuts of red meat are in Pimiento
(p.44) and Ed Red (p.48), or to literally receive a bib with
your food, order the outstanding ribs at Rzenia (p.30).
FAMILIES
Slowly but surely, more and more places in Krakw now
have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play
corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol Tat the
end of each listing. Nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem
(p.50), however, which has a huge rumpus room for kids
and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES
Krakw is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you
shouldnt have to search far for the perfect place. Make
a reservation in ZaKadka (p.31), Pod Nosem (p.50),
Bottiglieria 1881 (p.62) or Bianca (p.39) and let the
atmosphere do the rest.
SPECIAL DIET
For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies, the
street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A-2),
where youll find Sissi Organic Bistro (p.36), Karma (p.57)
and Pod Norenami (p.54), and the new Veganic is also
close by at Tytano (p.8); in Kazimierz head to Plac Wolnica
(D-7), home to Cafe Mynek (p.56) and Nova Krova (p.55).
For traditional Polish food thats assuredly gluten-free, visit
Pod Baranem (p.50).
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
I Fireplace
B Outdoor seating
AMERICAN
GRANDE GRILL
Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek,
this fresher effort from the same team behind Krakws
most famous restaurant balances modern styling and
cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round patio
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has
long been regarded as one of the best in town, and a stylish
indoor dining area, occasional rock/blues concerts, and live
sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The menu
is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly
made-to-order with the kind of service you would expect
from the citys most established restaurateurs.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-91z). TUEGW
HARD ROCK CAFE
The international Hard Rock Cafe chain occupies some of the
citys most hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica on Rynek
Gwny. Inside youll find an absurdly large number of staff
members milling around amongst rock memorabilia including
a pair of Elton Johns spectacles to an unplayable home-made
guitar from Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior
stacked over three levels, stop by to enjoy an expertly mixed
drink and a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon
once wore.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 11:00 - 23:30,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. (20-90z). T6UGW
MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB
On first glance this club looks exclusive indeed, with runway
waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern
monochromatic interior that looks more designed for a romantic
date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa).
The new menu reveals a varied array of refined options from
salmon to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than
burgers - the range of which has been reduced to 8 options, but
which remain large enough so that when cut in half you actually
have what would pass for two burgers in most places. The
reasonable prices and random music playlist make this place a
lot less pretentious than it first appears, however, and its one we
enjoy coming back to.QD3, ul. witego Krzya 15, tel. (+48)
531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-100z). UGSW
29
Restaurants
RZENIA - RIBS ON FIRE
This small meatery offers a concise menu of carnivore
cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with
sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled
beers. Though that sounds like something youd find
written on the side of a food truck, this place has more
class than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could
pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch. Order the ribs (no,
really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a
sawn-off section, and we guarantee youll be sucking the
bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best weve had in this
cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (theyll provide
you with one) and give this a try. Also in the Old Town at
Plac Dominikaski 2 (C-4).QD6, ul. Boego Ciaa 14, tel.
(+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (19-95z). UV
GSW
ASIAN
HURRY CURRY
Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food
truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in
Katowice and their Krakw locale features a large, open
and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full
menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia of
world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in spice
quotient and country of origin, plus other signature world
dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers from
Thailand, China and Japan. With so much menu to explore
and everything super affordable, multiple visits are almost
a given, and unlike most curry establishments, rice and
papadum actually come included with your meal.QC3,
ul. Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. w.Tomasza), tel. (+48)
728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-33z). T6UGSW
TAO BY ZEN
One of the most intriguing locales in Podgrze, this smart
and stylish Japanese and Thai bistro features a gorgeous
bamboo-trimmed teppanyaki griddle, a fireplace, balsa
wood lampshades and amazing year-round garden, which
invites the after-work drinks crowd, but also caters to kids
with swinging seats, a trampoline, and several fluffy rabbits
literally hopping about between tables. The expansive,
expert menu includes standards such as edamame, dim
sum, pad thai, tempura and bottles of sake, as well as
their own specialties like the tasty Ramen Burger. All of it
is absolutely delicious, though it may not be what your kids
want to eat, and the prices do somewhat discourage the
entire idea of having them tag along. Sweet, youve got that
swinging bench all to yourself then.QJ4, ul. Jzefiska 4,
tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (5-150z). 6UIVGSW
250+ restaurant reviews online:

Restaurants
FRENCH
LA FONTAINE
The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La
Fontaine, though the interior of rough hewn stone
walls and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing elegance
as well when theres a gale outside. Here delicious
French delicacies are served by a well-trained staff
who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out such wonderful dishes
as tournedos with potato casserole and a bearnaise,
wine, or roquefort sauce. Home to some of the citys
most outstanding cuisine and an excellent wine cellar,
its easy to understand why this veteran restaurant has
received so many awards and remains a mainstay of
the local restaurant scene after so many years.QC3,
ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (2569z). XW
ZAKADKA - FOOD & WINE
Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka
footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy Frenchstyle bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern
elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market
prices to make it outrageously popular. The new menu
changes seasonally and tackles French delicacies and
regional Polish dishes with equal respect and aplomb.
Prices are absolutely pedestrian when one considers
the skill of each meals preparation and presentation.
A perfect date destination, from the moment you step
inside Zakadka seemingly everything - from the sharp
black and white interior to the excellent food and wine
(the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an
aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QJ4, ul. Jzefiska
2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladkabistro.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (24-49z). TGW
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town

The best of the french cusine
Tel.: +48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
ul. Szpitalna 9, 31-024 Krakw

tel. 728 428 226
www.facebook.com/hurrycurrykrakow
Curries from all over the world
ZAZIE BISTRO
While no stranger to fine French dining, this casual
Kazimierz eatery is actually the closest thing Krakw
has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set
meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for
an affordable 29z, fantastic creme brulee, quiche that
you can order by size (from 1/8th to the whole pie) and
even escargot. Set over two levels, the ground floor
tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace
with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus,
interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out
canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks.
With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is
a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine
without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value
for your money.QE6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41
08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon
17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-45z). T6
GSW
31
Restaurants
GEORGIAN
THE BEST INDIAN

CUISINE IN TOWN
We invite you to enjoy

our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available.
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012
4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
TA
A
DI
F IN
O
E
ST
SMAKI GRUZJI
Slyly tucked away in Kazimierz (presumably where pro-Russian
separatists wont be able to find it), this modest Georgian
eatery is actually one of the citys hidden gems. Enjoy Eurasian
dishes like roasted pork and lamb, stuffed grape leaves,
Georgian meat dumplings (khinkali), khachapuri, traditional
kharcho soup, and baked salmon, plus of course plenty of
cheap Georgian wine for only 8z/glass, or starting from 38z/
bottle. The menu is admittedly meat-heavy, but - fear not there are also vegan dishes like the eggplant rolls with walnutgarlic puree. Delicious, ridiculously affordable and basically
the perfect ethnic food experience, gather some friends
together and enjoy your own supra - the Georgian tradition
of social feasting.QD6, ul. Dietla 33 (entrance from ul.
Augustiaska), tel. (+48) 883 43 34 23, www.smaki-gruzji.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (15-36z). TVGSW
INDIAN
INDIA MASALA
As the new mainstay now anchoring May Rynek, this
authentic effort from the same team behind Krakws top
Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a colourful
interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the
kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in
the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu
represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious
dishes well-explained in English and well-presented in
traditional metal bowls. As you might guess, weekday
afternoons are the perfect time to enjoy this place with lunch
sets of 4 or 5 dishes for 14-30z served 12:00 - 16:00.QC3,
May Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45z). 6GSW
INDUS TANDOOR
Krakws oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially
set a new, higher standard for the citys ethnic eateries
when it opened way back in 1998. Full of reds, golds, greens
and lotus patterns, the slim interior and canopied patio are
bursting with colour, and the near constant people filing in
and out speaks to the high quality of the food, prepared by
Indian chefs. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00) for a fantastic value; orders placed Mon-Thu after
16:00 receive a free appetiser.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 1315, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45z). VGSW
INTERNATIONAL
May Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow
reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl
www.indiamasala.pl
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI
An extension of the legendary bar of the same name,
Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down
street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees
including fish pie, falafel and more. Open late and also
open early (see Breakfast), everything weve tried has
been great, essentially making od Kuchni our favourite
thing about Alchemia these days. The simple, white tile
Restaurants
and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagens
meatpacking districts, the prices wont divest you of your
beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the
bar next door. The team behind this place obviously cares,
rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds;
cheers to that.QD6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99,
www.odkuchni.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (13-42z). GSW
BIERHALLE
This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Krakws May Rynek.
At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales
most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go
gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu of
German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings has been
recently expanded and improved by star chef Kurt Scheller
(and his stellar moustache), all while staying affordable,
and open late as well. A helpful multi-lingual menu, nice
service, and TVs streaming sports in every room make it a
lads magnet, but we found Krakws locale to be less rowdy
and more refined than expected. This is one of those happy
cases where success seems to have actually improved the
brand.QC3, May Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517 38 26 42, www.
bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. (10-60z). TUGSW
BUNKIER CAFE
This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous yearround terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect
place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and
cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational
English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since
we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and
cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some
of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until
12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, a
yummy pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, pasta, thin-crust
pizza, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there
now than ever before.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 3A, tel. (+48)
12 431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 24:00. (15-30z). 6XW
COPERNICUS
Inside one of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find
one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class
service inside an elegant gothic interior that features
original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded
each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by
Nobel Prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu
changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin
Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal
flavours; choose between 5 (180z), 7 (240z) or 12 courses
(350z). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making
it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QC5,
ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34
21, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
TGSW
33
Restaurants
DECODING THE MENU
Since one of the main things youre likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words youre
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
niadanie breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania gwne
main dishes
dodatki
side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
miso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
woowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
lody
ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
TIPPING TRIBULATIONS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, youll
be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word
dzikuje, or even thank you in English, is an indication
that you wont be wanting any change back. This cultural
slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the
waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the
fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money
back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of
your change. Be careful only to say thank you if you are
happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise
we advise you to only use the word prosz (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meals total (though being a foreigner
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel its deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
wont get the chance. Therefore its essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you dont have any, ask for change.
ENOTEKA PERGAMIN
The latest effort from Pergamin combines everything
needed for any occasion into one location. On the ground
floor its an affordable family bistro where the chefs are
at work behind a long deli counter of local delicacies
used to create delicious cheese and meat plates, brickfired pizzas, pastas and fresh seafood dishes. Meanwhile,
the upscale cellar features its own dining card and three
tasting menus, plus a classy cigar room and cosy wine
and cocktail bar. With a huge wine cellar, not only can the
sommelier recommend the perfect bottle for your meal,
but the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men in
town. Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop,
Enoteka Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be,
but also one of the few places we know where you can
really splash out on a nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an
affordable meal.QC4, ul. Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70
55 15, www.enotekapergamin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(17-199z). XSW
INDUSTRIAL
Conceptually representative of the neighbourhood
(alongside MOCAK and Schindlers Factory) with its
stylish post-industrial design and focus on art, this
unique and enormous venue is also one of the most
exclusive addresses in town. With a gleaming open
kitchen and ceilings high enough to accommodate tall
potted trees and the modern art which literally hangs
above the tables, the interior design is award-worthy.
The menu changes every three months, offering truly
exotic pizzas, burgers and pasta dishes, as well as
gorgeously-presented upmarket entrees like tuna steak
and lamb shoulder. With a large garden, plenty of space
and ambience to spare, Industrial is perfect for special
occasions and large events, but whether it lures the
areas tourists remains to be seen.QK4, ul. Lipowa 4A,
tel. (+48) 12 263 86 26, www.restoindustrial.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (46-75z). T6
GSW
PINO
Though its a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a
historic Old Town townhouse and make it look like
a warehouse with a modern post-industrial interior,
such are the todays trends, and PINO actually pulls
it off beautifully. Full of i-beams, wrought iron and
exposed brick - and featuring a mezzanine level, open
kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal patio dining - the
space is exceedingly well-designed and wonderful
for casual meetings, family dinners, or after-work
cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers
pizza (recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and
steaks, you name it - and everything is made on-site,
from the burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and
delicious, the service is great, and this is definitely one
of our new favourite places in the Old Town. Try it.QB3,
ul. Szczepaska 4, tel. (+48) 609 01 50 16, www.
restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (28-69z). GW
TRADITIONAL BEER
DELICIOUS DOWN TO THE LAST
DROP
POLISH CUISINE
SO TASTY THAT YOU WON'T WA
NT TO LEAVE THE TABLE
AN UNFORGETTABLE AND MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE

- GUARANTEED !!!
VISIT US AT BIERHALLE IN KRAKW

MAY RYNEK 7
KRAKW
+48 517 382 642
WWW.BIERHALLE.PL
Restaurants
SCANDALE ROYAL
Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge,
cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places
to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we
knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting
thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier
bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the
card youll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste,
with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00
menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside
from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.QB2, Pl.
Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.
pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. (24-59z).
TXSW
SISSI ORGANIC BISTRO
This wonderful restaurant emphasises healthy eating
and organic ingredients (including their own jams,
locally-sourced meat, and their own fresh-baked bread)
to create exquisite fusion dishes that change regularly.
Complemented by choice bottled beers and an excellent
wine selection, theres really nothing we cant recommend
from the stellar soups to the unique sandwiches, and their
homemade ice cream is out-of-this-world. The pleasing
interior of blonde woods includes a lovely seasonal garden,
the staff exude confident professionalism, and the prices
are curiously low for such an elegant experience. Each
time weve visited weve witnessed other patrons literally
gushing at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this
place is.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55,
www.sissibistro.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. (9-43z). 6IVGSW
SZARA
Enviably located right on the market square, Szaras
reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasnt
wavered over the years and if youre looking for a place
to impress guests or treat yourself to a special last night
in town meal, this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling
arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an
atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to
avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk.
Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door
is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:0012:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open
08:00 - 23:00. (34-85z). UGSW
SZARA KAZIMIERZ
Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the
second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.
What makes it so special is not the convenient location
on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food:
nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top
cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard
- yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and
very cheerful, all of Krakw should be like this.QE6, ul.
Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-73z). GSW
TRADYCYJA
Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past
incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely
unused), theres no need to mess with this historic market
square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted
timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier
(which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the
simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have
collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results
cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices
are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent
live folk music and dance performances.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (21-62z).
TUEGW
TRZY RYBKI
Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the
interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring,
balancing modern style with the expertly preserved
details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern
European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes
like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady
effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.
Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who
have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.QC2,
ul. Szczepaska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06,
www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (85-99z).
6UGSW
VANILLA SKY
The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky
is one of the citys only restaurants to use only certified
organic ingredients, and youll be happily commiting to
the eco-craze once you see the menu of tantalising dishes
like duck breast served with red cabbage stewed in wine,
and homemade dumplings. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed
tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening
concerts are performed Wed-Sat, as well as Sunday
afternoons.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (38-64z). TUEGSW
ZENIT
Zenits bar and kitchen seem to be in competition with
each other to see which can establish itself as the main
draw of this all-around excellent venue. This is the place
in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the drinks are made
using homemade syrups and top shelf liquor, and the
expert barmen love a new challenge. The breakfast menu
(served 08:30 - 13:00; Sun 09:00 - 13:00), meanwhile, is
phenomenal, featuring such goodies as their waffle with
mint cream cheese, smoked salmon and a poached egg.
The regular menu shifts with the seasons and is no less
amazing, the prices are unfairly low considering the quality,
and it all comes with great service from waiters who are
actually invested enough in your dining experience to
Restaurants
sometimes even convince you to change your order. Filled
with framed art and gold paint, that the space feels a bit like
a 70s hotel lobby bar isnt even a concern. Are we gushing?
Were gushing.QD6, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69
19 96. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. (16-39z). T6GSW
ISRAELI
White Camel Restaurant
Real taste of Galilee
New level of service
Original food from the Holy Land
Humus, falafel and many side
dishes are served for free
with main course
HAMSA
In a district whose dining establishments still treat
Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, heres a
restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war dcor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional
East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by
being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a
range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual
environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and
not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our
recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented
in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a
breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE6, ul. Szeroka
2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 23:00. (30-60z). T6GSW
WHITE CAMEL
This simple Israeli restaurant - with its modest decor, warm
hospitality and slightly grating Arabic music - captures what
we now imagine it must be like to dine in a small eatery in
actual Galilee. Ironically, the most exciting thing about White
Camel isnt what you order, but the numerous complimentary
side dishes (including delicious falafel and hummus) that
accompany each entree. Choose from a variety of lamb and
chicken dishes, kofta and fresh fish; we went with kofta with
tomato and ended up with exactly 9(!) dishes on the table and thats not including the beautiful brass finjan and coffee
saucers. Its quite amazing to be dining alone and have the
entire table laid out for a feast. An experience clearly designed
for hours of feeding, reserve some space in your schedule and
your stomach.QJ4, ul. Wawrzyca 24, tel. (+48) 12 356 92
79, www.whitecamel.eu. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (19-57z). TUGSW
ITALIAN
Restauracja White Camel

ul. w. Wawrzyca 24
31-060 Krakw
+48 12 356 92 79
whitecamel.restaurant@gmail.com
AMARONE
Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a
discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly
what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The
pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every
time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread
(baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients
straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made
Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants.
Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting
menu for only 50z.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (49-65z). T6UEGW
Restaurants
BIANCA
This small Italian bistro next to St. Marys Basilica comes
preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of
the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Marmolada.
No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though
the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta
dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the
relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high
level of perfectionism in each element (dont fail to notice
the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions
to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate
room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full
display.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www.
biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-60z). GW
BOSCAIOLA
With pedigree and another winning design job from the
team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly
upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts
a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic
fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and
street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful
cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and
stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and
pastas, but theres no skimping on the quality or quantity of
ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy
budget dining, right in the centre.QB3, ul. Szewska 10,
tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 23:00. (15-63z). TUGSW
INVITO PIZZA & PASTA
The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior
with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good
company and affordable food (two-course meals for as
little as 16.90z, pizza of the day 13.90z). The decor nicely
balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the
elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and
white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu
which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and
do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen
quickly. With cute students on the orders, live football action
on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the
stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, theres really
nothing to disagree with here.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 33,
tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35z). TUGSW
LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA
Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime
La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the
gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of sunlight
and singing birds, it may be the best dining environment in
Krakw; in winter, retreat to the romantic cellars and dream
of better weather. From the same tried and true team behind
Mid Malina and Wesele - two of our favourites (and the
Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and risotto are as good as
youd expect, and the atmosphere is tough to beat.QC4, ul.
Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-65z). TEGSW
39
Restaurants
QUICK EATS
Here we list some local alternatives to the fast food
franchises you might be familiar with from back home
(if its the Golden Arches youre looking for youre on
your own). Note that Kazimierz is a Mecca for fast street
food, with zapiekanki dispensed daily from Plac Nowy
(D-6), the famous sausage stand at Hala Targowa
(p.44), and the food truck movement finding its home
on Skwer Judah and at Dajwr 21 (E-6, p.42). For more
fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local
milk bar (p.48) or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.52).
CHIMERA SALAD BAR
This beautiful courtyard buffet has been sealed off
from the elements and now overflows with ambience
year round. Full of potted plants, climbing ivy, natural
sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimeras Salad Bar
may be the most pleasant budget dining environment
in town; unfortunately it tends to overshadow the
food a bit. Choose a plate for four or six portions, say
prosz and point at your pick of the salads, quiche,
stuffed vegetables and more. Its not the best veggie
fare in town, but its fast, easy, cheap and a great place
to relax.QB3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12,
www.chimera.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 22:00. (13-25z). 6GSW
GORCE PCZKI
Purveying Hot Doughnuts (as the name translates),
pczki are so popular in PL that they have their own
holiday, but this place keeps them coming fresh out
of the oven every day of the year. Essentially a dense,
deep-fried jelly doughnut, this sidewalk hatch on
the Old Towns popular Szewska Street offers about a
dozen different flavours of marmalade filling, including
traditional rose jam, chocolate-cherry, raspberry,
chocolate pudding, sweet cheese and more. Though
the prices are a bit rich at 3z each, this place knows
what its doing and you simply wont find a better,
fresher pastry. When it comes to trying local foods,
this is one you can easily and joyfully cross off your list.
QB3, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 530 20 66 06. Open
10:00 - 21:00. NS
ORIENTAL SPOON
This small outfit specialises in bibimbap (21/18z) the signature Korean dish of warm rice topped with
seasoned vegetables and meat - here, you can choose
between curried chicken, thin-sliced beef, sweet
glazed pork, or marinated tofu, and then the sauce of
your choice; aside from soup, thats the menu. With
only a few tables, most of their business is to-go - this
simple slow food is served fast and a solid alternative
to other area lunch offers.QD1, ul. Paderewskiego 4,
tel. (+48) 537 11 51 31. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00
- 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (8-24z). T6GSW
LA GRANDE MAMMA
Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling
restaurants in town, the team behind Mid Malina and
Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La
Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market square,
upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an ambience ideal
for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto (brothy fish stew),
or more casual meetings consecrated with delicious pizzas
and pasta. In addition to outstanding food and service,
interior design is another of their fortes, and the stripped
wood and mirrored tiles employed here give a fresh finish to
their successfully established style. As usual, acute attention
is paid to every detail, and the payoff is more than worth
the figure on the bill at the end.QB3, Rynek Gwny 26,
tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.lagrandemamma.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (20-60z). TGSW
MAMMA MIA
Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, pizzas are
the pride of this place, but the plethora of home-made
pastas and other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than just a one trick pony. The interior of clever
lighting and exposed bricks makes a cool backdrop for
casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to
Mamma Mias venerated reputation.QB2, ul. Karmelicka
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-47z). UGSW
NOLIO
Priding themselves on their fine Italian ingredients
(water buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of
Mt. Etna), Nolio makes authentic Neopolitan-style pizza.
The dough is left to sit for eight hours and baked in a
wood-fired oven for only a minute in strict accordance
with Napoletana ingredients and technique. The interior
is all black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood
furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering six types of
homemade pasta and a concise choice of classic pizzas.
Though there are a few gourmet options like pizza with
tuna steak, we recommend the Mezze Luna - half pizza,
half calzone. Absolutely packed from the first moment it
opened, is this really the best pizza in town? We believe
it is.QD7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12 346 24 49,
www.nolio.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (17-35z).
T6GS
PRIMO GASTRONOMIA
A casual, subtly rustic restaurant for exclusive tastes, Primo
presents signature dishes by head chef Rafa Wudyka and
his hard-earned and well-learned vision that a restaurant
can be welcoming to all, offer new and exciting tastes,
and still stay affordable. Let the delicious sourdough
pizzas here take a backseat to the gorgeous home-made
pasta, creatively deployed in original dishes you wont
get anywhere else. Primo actually spoils its patrons with
its fantastic lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00), allowing
them to choose one of five starters and one of five entrees
or pizzas for only 19. Of course you can drop in for
Restaurants
Recommendation
Classy budget dining,

right in the centre.
Krakow In Your Pocket
Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!
Recommendation
Pizza, pasta
e magia
ul. Szewska 10, Krakw

tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Krakw
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
41
Restaurants
FOOD TRUCKS
JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK

Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierzs
Skwer Judah - so named after the massive street mural
that adorns it - provides parking for this culinary trend.
With beach chairs, benches and palettes placed all
over this concrete pitch, you wont find a cooler place
to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but
reliable residents include Big Red Bustaurant (a vintage
double-decker bus with upstairs seating, serving fish
and chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Andrus
Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled
pork sandwich) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening
hours and availability vary with each, but most are
open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note
that there are fewer venues open on Monday).QE6,
Skwer Judah, ul. w Wawrzyca 16.
DAJWR 21 FOOD TRUCK PARK
Though lacking some of the size and scenesters of Skwer
Judah, this gravel lot for food trucks has a similar vibe, and
its success is secure thanks to a tourist-friendly location
across from Galicia Jewish Museum. Most of the food
trucks here do lunch elsewhere, so note the later opening
time. On our last visit we found Calavera Mexican Grill
(recommended), Gruzja Na Kkach (Georgian), wraps,
salads, French fries, zapiekanki and frozen yogurt. Theres
also the Armon Bar in the back of the lot, which basically
uses the space as its beer garden.QE6, ul. Dajwr 21.
Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
BEZOGRDEK FOOD TRUCK PARK
A food truck park that actually resembles a park
(rather than parking lot), the location at the far end of
enormous Bonia meadow may seem far afield, but its
actually the perfect place for families frolicking in Jordan
Park to escape and get some food. Well designed with
boardwalks built over the grass, beach chairs, picnic
tables and even a small playground for the kids, here
youll find upwards of 15 food trucks on any given
day, including most of the staples of mobile cuisine burgers, fries, hot dogs, coffee, ice cream, sandwiches,
etc. Frequent host to food festivals, parties and other
events, this is certainly Krakws nicest food truck park.
QG2, ul. Piastowska 20. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
just a glass of wine or a craft beer, but youll be missing

one of the best dining experiences in Podgrze.QJ4,
Kazimierza Brodziskiego 4, tel. (+48) 575 87 54 75,
www.primokrakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (24-52z). T6GSW
THE SPAGHETTI
This group - the same behind La Campana and Bianca know Italian, and put their expertise front and centre on
the market square alongside some of the Ryneks most
established restaurants. Capably holding their own once
again with a well-executed and mercifully concise menu
of pastas, meat entrees, risottos and thin-crust pizzas,
everything is made fresh on-site from Italian ingredients.
The market square patio is the place to grab a table, or
forge downstairs past the pizza oven to the wine cellar,
which features a clever faux-fireplace. Considering the
location and quality, prices are well within reason, but The
Spaghetti is also basically in competition with its several
more idiosyncratic sister restaurants, who well remain
more quick to recommend.QC3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 63 11, www.thespaghetti.pl. Open 11:00 23:00. (9-59z). TGSW
JEWISH
ARIEL
Youll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was
underwhelming, weve met many who extol the virtues of
this veteran restaurants varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding
to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a
popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though
you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being
charged (25z) to listen to it. Performances take place daily
and reservations are recommended.QE6, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:30. (19-78z). 6ESW
DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU
From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row
of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with
awnings relating to the areas Jewish heritage. Things are
no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing
machines and carpenters work surfaces adorning the
interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz
spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the districts past,
enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening
except Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QE6,
ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.dawnotemu.
nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (19-49z). 6U
EGSW

City Essentials App
Restaurants
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi1960 by
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten

a better pizza.
Tadeusz Patek by
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw

Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
43
Restaurants
LATE NIGHT EATS
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually
better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the
24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all
over town (see p.52). Perhaps Polands most popular
street food is the zapiekanka and the best place to
get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at
least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only
late night food spot more legendary is the Kiebaski z
Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.
KIEBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI

This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a
Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years. Here
two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue
Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays
to grill kiebasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the
hungry, drunken masses. For 8z you get a delicious sausage,
slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable
experience. Krakws first food truck, dont miss it if youre
in the neighbourhood.QE4, ul. Grzegrzecka (Hala
Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PRZYPIECEK
Join legions of happy locals tucking into a large range
of pierogi with various stuffings, served all night long
with no fuss and no formality. Sure, its not as fast as a
kebab, but its a much better value, better quality, and
they even offer tables to sit at. At the end of a night
of clubbing, there are few better places in Krakw for
filling your stomach.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24hrs. (9-18z). GSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late
night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised
of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.
QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 01:00. (8-23z). XSW
KLEZMER HOIS
Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath
house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierzs most
well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty
sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish
Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant
generally follows kosher rules, though theres no rabbinical
supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (29z) take
place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the
crowds amused and the wine flowing.QE6, ul. Szeroka
6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 22:00. (19-59z). UEGSW
LATIN AMERICAN
BRASAILENIA
The oddly shaped and rather uninspired interior of this
Brazilian barbecue - or churrascaria - might not make the
best first impression, but order in good faith and you will be
resoundingly rewarded by the food. Beautifully presented
on gorgeous dishware and cutting boards, the chef is
clearly a visionary and everything we tried was delicious
- from the white vegetable cream soup with truffle oil and
roasted pumpkin seeds, to the chicken saffron risotto and
rack of pork ribs. A churrascaria is all about the skewered
grilled meats, however, and not only are they tasty and
tender, but the barbecue sauce is also top-notch. Choose
a bottle from their wine list and youve won the evening.
QE5, ul. Brzozowa 15, tel. (+48) 531 07 02 87. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (30-85z). TGW
MANZANA
Manzanas New Latin concept cuisine consists of meat and
fish dishes alongside reinvented Mexican classics (the massive
burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic
cantina interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and
low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the
service and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making
Manzana the kind of place youd want to frequent often. The
daily specials (Taco Tuesday!) and Monday, Wednesday happy
hours (16:00 - 20:00) actually accomplish just that. With great
food, cocktails, and the largest selection of tequilas in town...you
know, were really quite fond of this place.QD6, ul. Miodowa
11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22 77, www.manzanarestaurant.com.
Open 16:00 - 22:00. Fri 16:00 - 22:30, Sat 11:00 - 22:30, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (19-83z). T6GSW
PIMIENTO
Behind the stunning gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this sexy
upscale Argentine steakhouse on the market square is all about
meat - big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting arguably the
best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from
Argentina, so if youve had one too many Polish cutlets and
want a proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you
remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had
one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down.
Also at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3), and in Kazimierz at ul. Jzefa 26
(E-6).QE6, Rynek Gwny 30, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 85, www.
pimiento.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (45-115z). GSW
2 0 1 6
POD R RESTAURANT
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
MODERN POLISH CUISINE
www.likusrestauracje.pl
3 RYBKI RESTAURANT
5 Szczepaska Street, Krakow
RISTORANTE AMARONE
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
(entrance from w. Tomasza Street)
COPERNICUS RESTAURANT
16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish
restaurant or milk bar (see p.48) in town. Smacznego!
NALENIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
BIGOS
PIEROGI
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato
(Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage,
strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will
find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or
liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
Though there is no standard recipe

for this hearty stew, ingredients
usually include lots of fresh
and pickled cabbage, sausage,
onion, mushrooms, garlic and
whatever else is on hand. In fact,
metaphorically bigos translates to
big mess, mish-mash or confusion in Polish. Seasoned with
peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the
stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A
Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured
on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
GOBKI
ZAPIEKANKA
quinn.anya/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0.
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists of

boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army
gobki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal
ever since.
GOLONKA
gkrphoto, AdobeStock
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki
po Wgiersku). Highly caloric, theyre also a tried and true
hangover cure.
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs

thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the
boiled, braised or roasted meat
should slip right off the bone,
be served with horseradish, and
washed down with beer. Go
caveman.
The ultimate Cracovian drunk food.

Order one at any train station in PL
and youll get half a stale baguette
covered with mushrooms and
cheese, thrown in a toaster oven
and squirted with ketchup.
robert6666 - dollarphotoclub
Underwhelming to say the least,
however the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have
made a true art out of the Polish pizza. With endless add-ons
(including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple,
feta you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become
standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity
youll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around
the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10z its a great
value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To
leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would
be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
ZUPA (SOUP)
Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and urek.
A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian borscht,
barszcz may be served with potatoes tossed in, with minipierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but
we prefer to order it solo - in which case it comes simply
as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. urek is a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
KIEBASA
Sausages, and in Polish shops youll find an enormous
variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable,
from turkey to bison. Head to Kiebaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.44) to get a taste of Krakws
most famous kiebasa, however. Two old-timers have been
grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this
hallowed sidewalk stand.
Restaurants
Friendly efficient staff,

delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
Rynek Gwny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
47
Restaurants
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped and

Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the
old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied
in todays tourist-laden Krakw, one relic remains
resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (bar mleczny
in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat
cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and
students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland
and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few
coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an
extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the
milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who
has just set foot in the country.
Polands first milk bar was actually opened on Krakws
own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants
were nationalised by PLs communist authorities, milk
bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairybased meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were
often included in a workers salary. In addition to milk,
yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions,
milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as
flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate
under communism that many milk bars chained
the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery;
by this same reasoning youll notice that most milk
bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and
pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.
Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as
inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing
time approaches, so go early, go often.
BAR KAZIMIERZQD7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48)
12 430 68 45. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00,
Sun 08:00 - 15:00. (3-8z). GS
POD TEMIDQC4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18z). UNG

S
POLISH
CZERWONE KORALE
This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from
the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and
welcoming in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers
wound with bright ribbons and beads give the dining
rooms a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders
and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the
walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which
serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative
innovations and a flair for presentation youd hardly
expect. Theres an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and
the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not
only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value (particularly
during their 14z lunch deals Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-45z). VGS
W
DOBRA KASZA NASZA
Considering the simple concept, and the fact that its
discreetly tucked off a corridor full of noisy music clubs,
this is a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant, featuring
a beautiful timber ceiling and modern art on the walls.
While some familiar Polish standards share the menu,
train your attention to the first page for an introduction
to Polish kasza - that is, groats or hot cereal. Choose from
pearl groats with chicken curry and black olives, or millet
with pumpkin, turkey and garlic sauce. A tasty, filling meal
on the market square for under 20z? Hard to believe and
even harder to beat.QB3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48)
531 62 64 47, www.dobrakaszanasza.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-30z). TUG
SW
ED RED
This upscale beef-stro (our turn-of-phrase, thanks)
specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged
on-site for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior
offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open
kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC
steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish
products and delicacies that change every three months.
alongside a wide selection of wines. Though casual in style,
the service is outstandingly professional, and everything
from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the
monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully
thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (30-195z).
UGSW
Not listed here?

Over 275 restaurant reviews online:
Restaurants
Polish
Restaurant
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Open: Mon-Thu 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00, Sun 09.00 - 24.00
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, Krakw, tel. 12 430-61-08, www.czerwonekorale.info
JAREMA
This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern
Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century
interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings.
Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about
serving steak tartar with quail yolk, large platters of
pheasant and wild boar, and shots of vodka as live folk
music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar
hearkening back to the old days, Jarema is no tourist trap,
but rather a heartily recommended destination for carving
into some royal cuisine. Featured by the Michelin guide for
seven years running.QD1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429
36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55z).
T6UVEGSW
KOGEL MOGEL
Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its
own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall
for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes
you in its elegance without any comrade kitsch. The
menu has gone full Galician and offers out-of-towners
the chance to take home a much better impression of
the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The
duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried
trout is outstanding and the large seasonal garden and
experienced staff also make this a good place for groups
and dinner events.QC3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426
49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (1765z). TEGSW
KURKA WODNA
With a playful name that we wont even try to translate, the
casual atmosphere of this quiet restaurant favoured by tourists
and the local clergy is elevated by elegant surroundings
and professional service. Effectively following a first course
(soup or pierogi), second course system, the menu features
richly flavoured and imagined Polish dishes - each expertly
paired with a hand-picked Hungarian wine in honour of PLs
fondness for having another country it can call brother. Like
neighbouring La Campana, the seasonal garden is one of the
main draws (as the layout of the interior rooms translates a bit
oddly into a dining space), and Kurka Wodna is sure to become
a mainstay on one of Krakws best streets for a romantic meal.
QC5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 730 70 02 48, www.
kurka-wodna.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-69z). TG
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their excellent
wine bar more in the mould of their other culinary successes,
and now serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences.
Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass
or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen
and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary
open kitchen and seasonal minimalist menu featuring rich,
creative dishes like dumplings with oxtail, celery and lemon.
Located in Pasa 13, dining the cellar of a shopping mall has
never been this classy.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13),
tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (25-55z). UGSW
49
Restaurants
MARMOLADA
Marmolada offers delicious local Maopolska delicacies,
perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large
stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long
and cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns,
canopied ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettias to
create their unique combination of a comfortable local
atmosphere and low prices with great food and service.
Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the citys
most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave
with a bill thats less than half the size.QC3, ul. Grodzka
5, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 33, www.marmoladarestauracja.
pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z). TU
GSW
MID MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY)
Consistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in
town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka
views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This
cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on
the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker
evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending
a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while the menu
mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices
remain pegged generously low making a visit here not just
recommended (as the Michelin Guide did), but essential.
QC4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.
miodmalina.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60z). TU
GSW
POD NOSEM
An elegant upscale dining experience on Krakws oldest
street, under the nose (as the name translates) of Wawel
Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit
yours upon entry. This establishment uses the sous vide
method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully
presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes
every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative
touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating,
gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose
profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and
guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of
your experience in Krakw.QC5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel.
(+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.com. Open 12:00 22:00. (25-85z). IGW
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)
Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of
the magnificent Pod R Hotel. The open and elegant
design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched
on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking
the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for
desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally
inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared
poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the
standards.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69z). TUEGW
MORSKIE OKO
Morskie Oko captures the mountain spirit of Zakopane,
so you can expect plenty of sheepskin-strewn timber
furnishings, farm equipment, waitresses with bits
bursting out of traditional costumes, and regular live
bands making a good old gralski racket. The food is
peasant-fancy: nicely-presented, well-portioned and
perfectly prepared plates of grilled game that have
earned this place a dedicated following. Plenty of space
and a kids corner make it ideal for family feasts.QB2,
Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 23, www.
morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50z).
TIEGSW
POD WAWELEM
The place to visit if youre looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare
cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards theyre served
on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating
serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families,
kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups
soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic
live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on
Mondays, and theres a handy vomitorium in the mens room
- i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from
over-consumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall
(Restauracja Sukiennice).QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel.
(+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40z). TUEGS
POD BARANEM
An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the
upscale interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling
beams and a fireplace, offset by framed photos of family
and guests on the walls, creating a truly comfortable
and classy dining environment. Serving excellent
incarnations of Polish standards, the menu includes
more meat than youll find at a livestock market
(including deer and wild boar), plus a special page
dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the complimentary
pre-meal smalec and bread may be the best in Krakw.
QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 22,
www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (23100z). TUIXS
POLAKOWSKI
The definitive local dining experience. Join the queue and order
big plates of piping hot food dished up from metal containers,
before bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose
from the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or
beet salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far
better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave.
Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the extra
yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and English
language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich witych 10 (C-4), ul.
Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in shopping malls M1 (Al. Pokoju 67)
and Galeria Bronowice (ul. Stawowa 61).QD6, ul. Miodowa
39, tel. (+48) 12 421 07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00. (10-22z). TGS
Restaurants
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Heaven! Fantastic food,

excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 422 02 33
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
One of the best dining experiences

we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
51
Restaurants
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
Photo by Karol Grzenia
A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour

snack and shot bar. Known locally as Zakski Przekski
(literally Appetisers & Snacks), these trendy dives cash
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and
drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakski Przekski bars are a
great place to keep the party going and meet the citys
strangest characters.
AMBASADA LEDZIA
Theres a vodka and led bar on seemingly every
corner in Krakw these days, and were gonna go
ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this fishy fad.
They were first, and if were judging by food, theyre
also the best. In case youre wondering, pickled herring
(led) is a delicacy in these parts in the same way that
vodka is local parlance for medicine. The two go great
together and for 12z its a cheap fling with foreign
culinary culture. Though the primary Herring Embassy
now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that
once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply
moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (led u
Fryzjera, open 10:00 - 05:00).QC3, ul. Stolarska 8/10,
tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
PIJALNIA WDKI I PIWA
Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnias
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded
inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and
trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu of
traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that
conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC3, ul. w. Jana 3-5
(entrance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Open 24hrs. NGW
RESTAURACJA POD ANIOAMI

One of the citys most historic and charming restaurants,
Pod Anioami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter
with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This cavernous, candlelit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting
considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two
levels underground; inside youre surrounded by historical
artefacts, and two beech wood-fired grills allow you to
watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. The
extensive menu includes Pod Anioamis famous pierogi, plus
everything imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was
enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special
recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the buildings
past as a goldsmithy. One of Krakws richest restaurant
experiences indeed, and highly recommended.QC4, ul.
Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl.
Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-140z). 6IGSW
RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE
Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously,
just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for
only 7.50z on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka
shots with the check, this restaurant has been a rampant
success in one of the most high-rent locales in the country.
Less beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem,
enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall
Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate
Austro-Hungary-inspired interior inside the Cloth Hall, all
while stuffing yourself silly on local specialties at some of
the lowest prices on the market square. The fact that it isnt
a shameless tourist trap, makes it even more of a tourist
magnet.QB3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09,
www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (16-43z). TGSW
RESTAURACJA W HOTELU FRANCUSKIM
Dingy, deliberately unfinished walls contrast with the
olde-world, over-the-top service of white suit-jacketed
gentlemen who serve everything at your table, even
preparing some of it in front of you (like the laborious
mincing of the steak tartar), all while a pianist tickles ivories
in the corner (Fri-Sun). As such, youll get a real kick out
of dining here, and the set lunch offer - served 12:30 17:00 each day - is a fantastic opportunity to experience
Francuskis high society inter-war elegance for a shocking
20z (35z on weekends, when it includes a glass of wine).
We love it.QC2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 530 67 95 19,
www.hotel-francuski.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:30
- 21:00. (20-60z). TUEGSW
SSIEDZI
Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for introducing
yourself to traditional Polish food, Ssiedzi (Neighbours)
offers up delicious portions of all the standards in a lovely
tavern-style interior that perfectly balances elegance with
homely comfort. The honeycomb of intimate rooms in
the cellar are perfect for small groups, but wed dine in the
flower-festooned patio and winter garden every time if
theres a table available. The staff are refreshingly friendly
Restaurants
and helpful, and tested classics like urek, potato pancakes
and perch in lemon-saffron sauce all earn top marks. This
is the Polish dining experience youre looking for, but at
prices beneath those youd get for the same Michelinrecommended results in the Old Town.QD6, ul. Miodowa
25, tel. (+48) 12 654 83 53, www.oberza.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (29-75z). TGSW
SMAKOYKI
An editorial favourite. Budget food isnt hard to come by
in this town, but when it does, its typically service and
ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here
though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious
Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro
interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made
from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even
sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall
plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great
place to work.QB3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12
430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (9-24z). T6GSW
SZARA G
Within one of the most coveted locales on Krakws market
square, nestled among some of the most exclusive tables
in town, The Grey Goose has confidently established itself
as one of the citys best places for an exquisite, romantic
dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a
unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne
out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry.
In fact, we made our entire meal goose-themed: a premeal chocolate goose liver praline, the fois gras ice cream
appetiser (amazing!), a tender goose drumstick with truffle
dumplings, and the signature Szara Gs dessert. Actually
resembling a large goose egg in a nest, this last invention is
so over-the-top we could only applaud. Bravo.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www.szarages.com.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-78z). TUGSW
WESELE
This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of the
most popular on the market square thanks to a reputation
built on Michelin recommendations, friendly service and
a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is about as good
as your Chinese, the name Wesele refers to the lengthy
celebration of family, food, love and vodka that takes place
after a traditional Polish wedding service, and if this place
werent full of tourists all the clinking glasses and smiling
faces might make you think youd actually crashed a Polish
wedding party. The menu is classic Polish cooking done
exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is
fabulous. Recommended.QC3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 60, www.weselerestauracja.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). TUEGSW
vine.co/inyourpocket
Pod Anioami Under the

Angels is an extraordinary
place. With its historical
13th-century interiors and
brilliant cuisine based on Polish
culinary traditions it brings your
closer to the medieval city. The
places is far-famed for marinated
meats grilled and smoked on
hardwood from beech tree and
for other old Polish dishes.
Restauracja Pod Anioami
ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Krakw
www.podaniolami.pl
mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl
tel.:+48/12 421-39-99
/ PodAniolamiRestaurant
53
Restaurants
THE OBWARZANEK
WIERZYNEK
Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the
opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings
and nine princes. Since then its been one esteemed guest
after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush,
Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets like Sophie
Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate interiors of original
period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and incredible
timber ceilings arent too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel
Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff.
The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional
feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasnt failed
to adopt modern influences as well, meaning youll eat
like a king and remember the experience - one you could
only have in Krakw - for quite a long time.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl.
Open 13:00 - 23:00. (79-120z). TEGW
SPANISH
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start

with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled
(usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame
seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every
other street corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable
theyve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact
the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently
protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known
as the Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name
from the Polish word for par-boiled and therefore
differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being
its internationally popular counterparts predecessor.
Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex,
confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was
invented by Krakw Jews after 1496 when King Jan
Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Krakw Bakers Guild.
First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that its been a daily sight
on Krakws market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price
of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50z (sacrilege!),
youll still see countless people on the go munching
these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the
art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up
to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000
obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that
on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by
date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one
is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki
also feed Krakws entire pigeon population when
in the evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
EL TORO RESTAURANTE
Establishing itself as a mainstay of Plac Wolnica, this
subtly seductive Spanish restaurant offers a variety of
authentic Mediterranean dishes, including a full menu
of mains, cold tapas atop the bar, and hot tapas to order.
The chefs are equally as adept at rich paellas as they are
at strange sea creature creations like stuffed squids and
grilled octopus tentacle. While that might be overstating
the adventurousness of a meal here, in a town surprisingly
short on Spanish cuisine, stepping inside El Toro feels like
an easy escape to warmer, sunnier, more exotic climes.
Soak it up.QD7, Plac Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 33,
www.eltoro-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (16-65z). TGSW
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

GLONOJAD (ALGAE-EATER)
Though the vegetarian fare here isnt the most creative weve
encountered, Glonojad has earned a devoted following of
students, activists and artists, and we count ourselves among
them at least once a month. Fast, filling, healthy and a great
value for your money, the concise eastern-inspired menu
features curries, samosas and burritos, and the daily specials
are always a sound choice. With an interior that you forget
as soon as you walk out the door, Glonojad hasnt really
elevated itself much above the status of a sort-of veggie
milk bar (albeit one with beer, wine and wifi), but its a good
alternative to other cheap Polish eateries, and keeps the kids
coming back day after day.QD2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12
346 16 77. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (11-18z). T6GSW
KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER
Well-established in Warsaw, this cheap vegan burger joint has
stormed into Krakw and the kids are literally queuing out
the door. Choose from 5 standard patties - millet (jaglanex),
seitan, chickpea (cieciorex), veggie and tofu, plus outstanding
weekly inventions - pick your sauce and bun, and then leave
the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line
Restaurants
efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as
the menu (from which fries are conspicuously absent), and, as
if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, Krowarzywa
has their own bottled yerba mate brand and offers 3z nettles
shots, plus natural smoothies. Honestly, we eat here once a
week, and its encouraging to see a place like this gain traction
just off the market square. Check it out.QB2, ul. Sawkowska
8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www.krowarzywa.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-16z). 6VGS
POD NORENAMI
Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the
metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place
weve seen in PL, Pod Norenamis long menu (too long if were
honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared
in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens
of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. While some Far
East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) arent new to
Krakw, a true vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock
meat certainly is, and the results have got people packing this
place out and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate
the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like
the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Krakws
vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel.
(+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). TGSW
VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA
Formerly focussed on combining two current food trends
that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and burgers
- Nova Krova has branched far beyond food in a bun to
become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety of delicious
dishes made from faux meats, whole grains, nuts, beans and
other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday brunch (10:00 - 13:00,
15z), delicious dairy-free desserts, coffee with soy, almond
or coconut milk, obscure beers and homemade ginger- and
lemonade. Burgers are still around, and now you basically
build your own with whatever ingredients you want,
including your choice of patty (bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan,
quinoa, falafel) and bun (white, wheat, gluten-free). As you
might expect the hipster quotient here is exceptionally high almost as high as our opinion of the place.QD7, Pl. Wolnica
12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (10-18z). 6UGSW
WIELOPOLE 3
This large cellar restaurant on an otherwise avoidable street may
offer only a limited menu and be overall lacking in atmosphere,
but the food is outstanding and the value unbeatable. A
seemingly routine list of rather pedestrian vegetarian fare
(soups, salads, veggie cutlets, tofu burgers) is given royal
treatment by the chef who apparently isnt aware that the
staff are only charging 8z(!) for entrees. Get your greens in the
form of a wheatgrass shot, or the house specialty wheatgrass
drink with apple juice and lavender syrup - delicious. Heartily
recommended and heres hoping it overcomes obscurity
to become the local lunch bar of choice for everyone in the
neighbourhood.QD4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 506 02 47
67. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (12-15z). T6UGSW
55
Cafs
Unwind in Krakw by unwinding a sweet treat from Chimney Cake Bakery.
CAFE BAR MAGIA

This inviting cafe on the ground floor of the historic Hipolit
House is an all-season affair that exudes Cracovian charm.
In summer enjoy the Plac Mariacki patio, or retreat into the
more intimate interior garden for a glass of cider or spritzer in
the sunshine. Likewise, entering in winter is like pulling on a
warm sweater, with soft sounds on the stereo, and plenty of
hot drinks and comfy corners to choose from. If you need a
bite, theres a substantial menu of baguettes, wraps, quiche,
soups, salads and cakes (oh the cakes). Just when it couldnt
get more cosy, theres Hipolit - the resident cat - who literally
pre-warms the seats. Also a second location at ul. w. Anny
11 (B-3).QC3, Plac Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426 47 73,
www.cafebarmagia.pl. Open 09:00 - 02:00. GW
rolled and wrapped in a spiral around a spit, then rolled in

sugar and basted in butter while baking. At Chimney Cake
Bakery they make them right in front of you and offer 10
different toppings and fillings, including vanilla, coconut,
nutella, peanut butter and - their most innovative creation
- ice cream in a chimney cake cone. Enjoy this hot, steamy
(hence the name) treat at their stand in the Planty (near
the train station), or at Food Truck Square in Kazimierz (E-6).
Cakes are 7-9z, with ice cream 12z.QD2, ul. Basztowa
26A, tel. (+48) 796 06 77 07. Open 12:00 - 21:00. GS
CAFE MYNEK
For many years the best cafe south of ulica Jzefa (before ul.
Mostowa and Podgrze began to develop), Cafe Mynek is a
great escape from the bustle of Plac Nowy - particularly when
the sunny outdoor seating on Plac Wolnica is open; while still
retaining the artsy, bohemian spirit of Kazimierz. Mynek is also
one of only a half dozen establishments in Krakw serving
gluten-free and vegan eats, including a big vegan breakfast,
homemade humus and Jewish latkes. Recommended.QD7,
Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, www.cafemlynek.
com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. T6GSW
CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY

The haute cupcake trend has spread all the way to Krakw,
and this cheerful (but pricey) American bakery couldnt
be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself.
Offering 21 different cupcake flavours on various days of
the week (12 daily), choose from delicious creations like
Peanut Butter Brownie, White Chocolate Pistachio, glutenfree Chocolate Cashew, Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If that
sounds good, wait until you try their all-natural, artisanal ice
cream and milkshakes. Organic coffee and a large selection
of delicious bagels are also on hand, everything is made
entirely from scratch, and custom orders are invited. Also at
ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5) and ul. Michaowskiego 14 (A-2).QC3,
ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.
pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. TUGSW
CHIMNEY CAKE BAKERY

This sweet treat is native to the Hungarian-speaking regions
of Romania, but these local Polish lads have perfected it,
while putting their own twist on things. If youre not familiar
with chimney cakes, it consists of a yeast dough thinly
FITAGAIN
As the name suggests, this modern cafe in the heart of the
Old Town sets itself out with the intention of offering a healthy
alternative to wherever else weve been going for lunch breaks
all these years. Well, weve become frequent visitors indeed,
Cafs
but aside from their daily specials (mostly pasta dishes),
however, we dont rate the food (crepes, American pancakes,
cold sandwiches and raw salads) very highly. What does get
us through the door is the delicious coffee - which comes in
outrageously large sizes (is a half litre of coffee healthy?). That
and the hassle-free wifi, plus a huge table perfect for informal
meetings, and this place is actually a solid alternative to the
IYP offices.QB2, ul. Szczepaska 7. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri
07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TGSW
JAMA MICHALIKA
Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment
that Moda Polska - Polands Art Nouveau movement was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day
choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and
tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed
a bit since then and still features loads of original artwork
from the fin-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings,
stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking
section. Theres also a full menu of Polish food and regular
folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist
groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the
appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue
is still essential.QD2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422
15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6UEXW
KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS
Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their
own beans and boasts one of the best espresso machines
in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this
is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set.
Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of
vegan and gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan
lunch specials that will make you feel great about what
youre eating, as well as how little youre paying. With a
full breakfast menu to complement their coffee, Karma
is a wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a
bit more conscious. Also a second location in Kazimierz at
ul. w. Wawrzyca 9/2 (D-7, open Sat & Sun only, 10:00 16:00).QA2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81,
www.karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. T6GSW
KOLANKO N6
One of Kazimierzs most under-appreciated venues,
Kolanko has plenty going for it, namely the large garden
with plenty of summertime shade and winter warmth,
and the occasional concerts that take place in the venue
space beyond it (check their FB page). Dont forget the
cheap menu of soups, salads and creatively-stuffed sweet
and savoury crepes, however; nor the local amber and
dark beers on draught. Quirky attic knickknacks combined
with klezmer and world music selections give Kolanko
6 an escapist atmosphere well-appreciated by couples,
laptoppers and loners like ourselves. Recommended.QE6,
ul. Jzefa 17, tel. (+48) 12 292 03 20, www.kolanko.net.
Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00. T6UGSW
BREAKFAST
BAGELMAMA
Kazimierzs favourite bagel spot, with a range of different
toppings and cream cheeses. Plus, drip coffee, wraps,
homemade soups, a killer breakfast burrito, pastrami
sandwich and more - served all day, naturally.QE6, ul.
Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, www.bagelmama.
com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. (4-20z). T6GSW
CAMELOT
This charming cafe has breakfast written all over it,
which is perhaps why they serve it all day long. The
large menu features breakfast sets with scrambled
eggs, paninis, baguettes, cakes and more, plus plenty
of hot drinks and other treats. Full of light and rustic
charm you may find yourself spending the entire day
here.QC3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01
23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (17-25z). 6NGSW
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Early risers wont find any better place in the Old Town
than Charlotte, which offers great coffee, fresh bread,
pastries, a variety of breakfast sets (served all day) and
a wonderful atmosphere all day. High ceilinged and full
of natural light from wall-length windows overlooking
Plac Szczepaski this is a great place to read the paper,
open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of
you.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-18z). 6GSW
MILKBAR TOMASZA
With half the menu devoted to early morning eats,
Milk Bar is an astute place to start the day. Select from
a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg
platters, crepes and paninis, and their excellent Irish
breakfast, served all day.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18z). TUGSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast buffet,
or order a la carte and choose from two pages of exciting
breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes, pancakes,
and a solid English breakfast. If you consider breakfast
a proper meal, this is one of the best places in town to
go.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 02:00, Breakfast served until 12:30. (11-27z). SW
57
Cafs
ANDRZEJKI
If youre a single young lady in Poland on the night

of November 29th, you have a unique, perhaps
harrowing, opportunity before you. The Eve of St.
Andrews Day (Andrzejki) has been associated with
fortune-telling in Poland for centuries. The first
written mention of the tradition goes back to 1557,
and while the seriousness of the proceedings have
certainly lightened, the basic elements of this ancient
custom remain unchanged from the Middle Ages.
In those bygone days it was believed that the spirits
of the ancestors were at their most accessible when
they descended back to earth during this time. With
conditions thus in place for a bit of crystal ball gazing,
coupling was naturally the one thing on every girls
mind. Would she be married in the coming year? And
what, pray tell, would her prince look like? Following
the protocols of the day, thirteen candles were then lit
to call forth the spirits into the room
As the tradition evolved, young girls participated in
Andrzejki in groups until eventually boys were let in on the
fun as well, and it became the kind of light-hearted social
game playing that it is today. Of the many games that were
played on Andrzejki in the past, one that remains popular
today involves a group of young girls taking off one of their
shoes and lining them up one after another in a single
file. The girl whose shoe is last in line then takes hers to
the front, and so on, meandering through the house until
reaching the front door; the girl whose shoe is the first to
cross the threshold will be the first to marry (omg!).
The most common Andrzejki tradition carried on today
uses hot wax as a conduit into the spirit world. The wax
must be melted and then poured through the eye of a
skeleton key into a bowl of cool water. Once cooled,
the resultant form is then held in front of a light and
the shadow cast reveals the appearance of your future
partner, or something about their character. Today
Andrzejki is a fun, carefree celebration of being young and
single more than anything - and that means drinking and
dancing. Always a big night out for students - perhaps
determined to forget whatever grotesque revelation
theyve just received or change their fate - almost every
club in Krakw will be throwing an Andrzejki party. Get in
the mix and see what the future holds.
METAFORMA DESIGN CAFE

Enviably location directly under Wawel Castle on the
Wisa riverbanks, this hip, family-friendly cafe has created
an attractive intersection for art, culture and design. In
addition to delicious coffee, local beers, ciders and wine,
and some tasty vegan and vegetarian dishes, Metaforma
quadruples as a shop, gallery, and furniture showroom,
promoting Polish artists and designers specialising in
crafty, eco-friendly home decor, jewellery and accessories.
With plenty of space and a sunny seasonal patio out front,
this is really more than you could ever hope for from a
cafe that would have plenty of business without half the
effort thanks to their location.QB5, ul. Powile 11, tel.
(+48) 511 55 94 22. Open 09:00 - 22:00. T6UG
SW
NOWOROLSKI
This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the
citys highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous
as Comrade Lenins preferred hangout during his visits,
WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top
haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being commandeered by
the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things
have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky
throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the
autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the
exquisite art nouveau interiors by Jzef Mehoffer make it
well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee,
but it wont be served against such an atmospheric
backdrop.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10
09 98, www.noworolski.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
EGSW
PAUZA IN GARDEN
This modern, award-winning building was already worth
a look for its architectural merits, cool street art and the
awesome Arteteka branch of the library (home to film,
comics and boardgames), but the addition of Pauza puts it
over the top. A great place to work and relax by day, enjoy
their delicious coffee and healthy vegan and gluten-free
eats. In the evenings Pauza becomes a popular meeting
place for art, business and culture with a full calendar of
art openings, concerts, film screenings and festival afterparties. Use their FB page to see whats up and connect
with the local in-crowd.QA2, ul. Rajska 12, tel. (+48) 600
58 01 26. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. T6UGSW
SODKI WIERZYNEK
This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Krakws
most famous dining destination is everything youd
expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime
Rynek real estate while indulging in gourmet coffee
and cakes, pralines, truffles, macaroons and more - all
of which are made on-site and can be taken home in
snazzy gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their
online shop.QC3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 36, www.slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00.
GSW
Cafs
59
Nightlife
Head to Terapia Grupowa (p.69) for a group therapy session with your supportive pals Jack, Jim, Johnny and Jameson.
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the highest
density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of
drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching
from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them
open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of
tourists that flock to Krakw every year. With increased tourism
comes increased prices, however, and these days you can
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer.
For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriaska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar
will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge
a cover of anywhere from 5-20z those nights. While the
opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues
themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are
drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs
in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in
the guide on page 68.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use
our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews
of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your
comments about all of those which youve visited. Below
is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what
youre looking for.
COCKTAILS
The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.63) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache, or try the down-at-heel
Mash Room (p.8), where the mixed drinks are on draught.
For live jazz and boudoir sensuality, its The Piano Rouge
(p.66). In Kazimierz try Le Scandale (p.68), Terapia
Grupowa (p.65) or Zenit (p.36) for signature drinks .
CRAFT BEER
Microbrews are all the rage in Krakw, so theres simply no
excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples
in T.E.A. Time (p.69), Terapia Grupowa (p.69), Wee
Krafta (p.9), Viva La Pinta (p.65) or Ursa Maior (p.69) and
you can officially consider yourself a beer snob.
STUDENTS
Not the most discriminating demographic, students will go
anywhere theres cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia Wdki i
Piwa (p.52), but for a more international crowd hit Teatro
Cubano (p.67). Those who like to dress up and dance head
to Lokal, Frantic and Spoem Deluxe (p.66).
LADS
Irish Pub Pod Papugami (p.63) and Bierhalle (p.33) where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try
your Travolta in Lokal (p.66). Or go a bit more civilised by
sampling 200+ ales at House Of Beer (p.63).
COUPLES
Couples looking for some face time should share a bottle in
Bottiglieria 1881 (p.62), catch some live jazz in PiecArt
(p.66), converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.69), and
have a final nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.63).
ALTERNATIVE
Take your unfinished screen play to Dym (p.62), and your
long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe (p.61). Krakws
hipster headquarters are the new Tytano complex (p.6)
and old standby Forum Przestrzenie (p.62).
Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted
G No smoking
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
B Outside seating
BARS & PUBS

ANTYCAFE
As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe ahipster haven, since
mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these days, we
wouldnt want to do this eclectic establishment that disservice.
Between the two full bars on opposite ends of this 30m long
anti-caf, youll find an array of candlelit nooks, an assortment
of eccentric, somewhat sinister art, great music, and a very
unique, very cool vibe indeed. True to its name, the alternative
atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a quaint caf,
and with a great beer selection and one of the least ostracising
smoking sections in the Old Town, youve all the more reason
to occupy a table. If you can find a free one, that is.QC2, ul.
Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl.
Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
BAROQUE
Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion photographs,
dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden during the
warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp, modern space
that mixes the new with the old. Seductively attractive, its
range of cocktails is among the best in the city; choose from
knock-out creations like the Polish Spring Punch or put your
head down and do your best to rip through the 100-plus
vodkas on the list. While Krakws mojito love-affair continues
unabated, Baroques still looks the best and comes in positively
huge portions. Theres a full menu of food to peruse, and on
weekends the downstairs turns into a dance club, making this
one of the most complete venues in town.QC2, ul. w. Jana
16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. XW
BEER GALLERY - LUXURY
If you arent yet familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yourself here
for an education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian imported
brands, the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell you all there
is to know about the 150 bottles in stock (also available to-go)
and the 11 types on draught, as well as letting you sample the
latter. Rather than price each label individually, Beer Gallery
offers every bottle at an average price of 10z. Not only does
this make it easier, its also cheaper than youll find at the shop!
While little more than a hole-in-the-wall, this Belgian beer
library with its encyclopaedic menu is the only place of its
kind in the country and a great place to try some of the best
beers in the world while duly impressing your date.QD3, ul.
w. Tomasza 30, tel. (+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.
pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. UNGW
Luxury Shisha Club

in town
Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakw
tel. +48 690 095 485
manager@shishaclub.pl
www.shishaclub.pl
HOT BEER?
Though the Polish winter is
famous for being long and
brutal, fear not, the Poles have
a method for taking the bite
out of this blustery season, and
as you can probably guess its alcohol (congratulations,
Kowalski). For those in need of
a warm-up that wince at the
thought of vodka, we have
two words for you: hot beer,
or grzane piwo as its called by the locals. Essentially
a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup,
clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this
Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early
Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity.
Regardless, its a necessary invention and a must-try (at
least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter
months. Similarly popular is grzane wino - or mulled
wine - as youll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling
cups of it on the market square during Decembers
Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec
Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much,
youll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost
any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well.
Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!
61
Nightlife
WINE BARS
BOTTIGLIERIA 1881
Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this
small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a
sharp decr of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn
timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly
stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Pawe Kras has
put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise
menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising
assortment of fresh tapas (4z each) right before
your eyes, while the sommelier complements them
perfectly with her recommendations. A great place for
business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an Award of
Excellence by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently
won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise,
since there are few venues in Krakw as beautifully
elegant and unique as this one.QE7, ul. Bocheska 5,
tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. GW
KONFEDERACKA 4
If you find yourself in Dbniki - the neglected
neighbourhood across the river from Wawel - dont
miss this outstanding cafe/wine bar/bistro. Though
obscurely located, whoever rather bravely identified
the potential of this place has a great eye. Simply, but
smartly designed, the cosy front room of exposed
bricks and unfinished floors doubles as a gallery, while
the fabulous back room features large warehouse
windows overlooking ivy-covered walls, a mezzanine
that gives the impression of a lofted apartment, and a
large tiled oven which belies the buildings history as
an old bakery. Taking the term open kitchen to a new
level, the stove is right amongst the tables so the cooks
literally work amongst the clients. With delicious coffee,
a nice wine and cheese selection and solid weekend
breakfast, dinner and desserts, this is a great place to
drop in any time of day.QA7, ul. Konferderacka 4, tel.
(+48) 533 62 30 66. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Note that
the kitchen opens Mon-Fri from 13:00. (16-32z).
GSW
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly Bar 13, this rebranded bar and restaurant
now serves modern upscale Polish food with Italian
influences, benefiting from the select vintages and
local seasonal delicacies of their adjacent delicatessen
and wine shop. Sit at the bar, or in their dining room
in front of the open kitchen, and enjoy an exclusive
selection of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass
or the bottle. Located in Pasa 13, drinking wine in the
cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy, and
it makes for a welcome break from being teased by the
3000z shoes for sale nearby.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13
(Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. UGSW
BULL PUB
What the Great British Pub once looked like before the
brewing industry was mugged by alcopops, Wetherspoons
and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could be in the Rovers
Return, what with all the glass sconces, booth seating and
pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit associations and centre
stage location mean a fair chance of running into groups of
lads freshly dispatched from an EasyJet, thus disrupting the
armchair atmosphere which would otherwise be ideal for an
after-work beer and maybe a nap.QD3, ul. Mikoajska 2,
tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68. Open 09:00 - 03:00. XW
BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER)
Attached to Krakws best contemporary art gallery, this
enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious
greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with
couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving
private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox
for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round pleasure
(thanks to plenty of heaters), the space is judiciously divided
between smoking and non, and they now offer a full menu of
delicious food thats served late; in fact the inviting atmosphere
is marred only by the slow to completely negligent table
service that unfortunately cant be circumnavigated.QB2,
Pl. Szczepaski 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl.
Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. XW
DYM (SMOKE)
Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar, Dym is
a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which is made up
for by the character of the clientele: primarily self-proclaimed
artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of smoke. How many
advances and grants have been blown here its hard to
know, but spend a few nights at Dym and youre guaranteed
to become a character in at least two unfinished novels.
Yes, we were all so full of promise back then; back before
all our ambition and drive went into drink, we went broke
and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory days.QC2,
ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12 429 66 61. Open 10:00 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. NGW
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE
In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum
Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Krakws most original,
intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have
simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street
art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly
competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and
pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the
talented, tattooed post-college crowd (hipsters you might
call them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest
place to be day or night. With great views and plenty of
space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace is
sprawling with beach chairs, while inside theres enough
space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and
other events are a constant, making Forum one of the
most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI4,
ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.
forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. EGW
Nightlife
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded first place for quality in

Polands Guinness Competition.
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
Two bars
Pool Darts
SKY TV
(All matches shown)
HARD ROCK CAFE

Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the
market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rocks modern splitlevel bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and
the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long
day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the
only places in town that has a happy hour, which ironically
starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isnt the cheapest
place in town, but its one of comfort for many.QC3, Rynek
Gwny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.
hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 02:00. 6UGW
IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI

A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian
cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish brica-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming
sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphys, Guinness
and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere
beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to
meet people and find out just what exactly the craic is, PP
actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish
bar.QC2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www.
podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. UXW
HOUSE OF BEER
With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers, this highceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture of
Polands drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals alike,
the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or
having the unnecessary and all too common distraction
of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be
a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking
the barman to uncork one, or try the local ales on draught
for more of a bargain.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance
from ul. w. Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 530 12 91 47, www.
houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 - 02:00. GW
MERCY BROWN
The word is out on this pseudo-speakeasy, and now that
theyve normalised their opening hours were lifting the veil
on the best cocktail bar in Krakw. No joke, the gentlemen
that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in
showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool
and dont miss the show. They make their own tinctures,
the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive,
artisanal drinks changes regularly; every cocktail costs 21z,
but is absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap,
enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and
electro-swing soundtrack. Hidden above the Smakoyki
restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to
the porter at the desk that youd like to go upstairs; half the
fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QB3, ul.
Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. GW
youtube.com/inyourpocket
63
Nightlife
POLISH VODKA
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka

since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find in any
alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WINIWKA
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
winiwka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. Youll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ODKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under
the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed
when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
UBRWKA
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Biaowiea Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly combined
with apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
MULTI QLTI TAP BAR

If you enjoy good beer, bring yourself here. With 20
draughts, hundreds of bottles and knowledgeable bar
staff, connoisseurs will be hard pressed to call it quits once
theyve cottoned to the fact that PLs current craft beer
craze (and low prices) is making the country heaven on
earth for hop-heads. Hidden on the first floor above one
of Krakws clubbing high streets, Multi Qlti is a relative
oasis of refinement, with a low-key atmosphere of chill
sounds, street art stylings on the walls and a smoking room
with large windows overlooking the street scene below.
Bottoms up, bro.QB3, ul. Szewska 21, 1st floor, tel. (+48)
12 341 58 47. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00.
XW
PIWNICA POD BARANAMI
The very definition of the oft-copied Cracovian cellar bar,
this legendary venue has been around since 1956 when
renowned eccentric Piotr Skrzynecki (see his monument
a couple doors down in front of Vis a Vis) founded its
famous literary cabaret. A local cultural phenomenon,
performances (in Polish, naturally) still take place every
Saturday at 21:00 and are popular as ever; best to book
yourself a ticket by calling 12 421 25 00. Jazz, tango, swing,
art exhibits and other events are also frequent, but at its
heart this divey dram house is a scruffy safe haven for local
artists, academics, bohemians and moon-howling boozehounds who feel right at home amongst the clutter of
oddball art on the walls and rickety furnishings. A classic,
and seemingly tourist-proof.QB3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel.
(+48) 12 422 01 77, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl. Open
11:00 - 02:00. GW
SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD
An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Clubs cup
runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass
lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an
underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling
down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from
five flavours of tobacco (35z and up), plus drinks from the
full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen
Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QC3, May
Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 690 09 54 85, www.shishaclub.pl.
Open 15:00 - 02:00. XW
STARY PORT (THE OLD PORT)
Krakows only sailor bar could be best described in
three words only: Never-ending drunken singalong.
This candlelit ship-in-a-bottle is packed full of students
and seamen on permanent shore-leave and the selkies,
sirens and sea-wenches that love them. Surrounded by
nautical knickknacks, salty, sea-creased musicians sing
shanties into the wee hours (particularly Thursday to
Saturday) and fellowship is found at the bottom of every
bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to walk. Fetch aft the rum,
ukasz!QB3, ul. Straszewskiego 27 (entrance from ul.
Jabonowskich), tel. (+48) 12 430 09 62, www.staryport.
com.pl/krakow. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. EXW
Nightlife
VIS A VIS
Perhaps the only space
on the Rynek to survive
Krakws tourist boom
with its scummy integrity
intact, Vis a Vis is a timeless
local favourite happy to
tell foreigners to piss off
while indulging pensioned
Polish drunkards until their
heads hit the beermat.
Sadly forced to inflate to
9z a pint, this is still one
of the cheapest drinks on the Rynek, making its seasonal
outdoor tables the first you should look for a seat in before
sending your most competent compatriot to fetch a drink
inside the small stool-laden bar where watching the local
barflies makes for an intriguing social study. One of the
few remaining remnants of the real Krakw that the Rynek
has left.QC3, Rynek Gwny 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 61,
www.zvis.pl. Open 08:00 - 03:00. 6NGW
VIVA LA PINTA
Pinta has been one of PLs most popular and mostawarded microbreweries since 2011 when it began
producing craft ales in Zawiercie, just 70km northwest
of Krakw. Hidden off ul. Floriaska, this - their flagship
brew-pub - is rightfully one of the trendiest locales in
town for hipsters and hop-heads. Offering 14 delicious
draughts and plenty more in the packed fridge, the
selection isnt limited to Pinta ales alone, showing an
admirable solidarity among PLs small indie breweries.
The short menu features some dishes made with their
ales, but isnt nearly as special as the drinks - one of which
is sure to meet even the most distinct and demanding of
tastes.QC3, ul. Floriaska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 90.
Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. GW
ul. Sawkowska 26, Krakw

790 802 930
lacasakrakow@lcdh.pl
facebook.com/lacasadelhabanokrakow
Open every day 11:00 23:00
8 thousand Cuban cigars

in one place...
La Casa del Habano Krakw
the first world class Cigar Shop
and Lounge in Cracow
CIGAR LOUNGE
LA CASA DEL HABANO
The only place of its kind in Krakw, this classy cigar
shop and lounge knows its niche, offering connoisseurs
strictly hand-rolled Cuban cigars and smoking
accessories (dont even bother bringing outside
tobacco products), complimented by a top selection
of single-malt whiskies, wine, rum and port from their
intimate bar, plus Cuban coffee. Get comfortable in
their cosy, elegant and expertly ventilated lounge full
of leather armchairs and antique Art Deco details, and
youll find that the staff is not only knowledgeable,
but exceedingly hospitable, making the prospect
of exploring the rest of Krakw seem like a matter of
less and less urgency or importance with each puff.
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 790 80 29 30,
www.lcdh.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. XW
...tasting in the lounge
65
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC & JAZZ
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
HARRIS PIANO JAZZ BAR

This downstairs jazz den is host to outstanding concerts
daily, yet remains one of our least favourite venues
thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If
you havent reserved a table for the show, youll find
nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once
you take your seat youll find it a trial to get up again.
Aggravating the dilemma are staff on the market
square baiting more people past the ticket vendors,
where theyll then have no view of the action on stage.
Harris now offers food until 24:00, however, so at least
theyll feed you.QC3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48)
12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 03:00. EGW
PIECART
The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to
1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront
of Krakws respected jazz scene ever since, attracting
some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene
to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly
(check their website for exact details) in the vaulted
brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing
peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul.
Szewska has made PiecArt more inviting than ever,
with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the
longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the
wall.QC3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02,
www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. EGW
THE PIANO ROUGE
The red-light interior of this opulent underground
venue on the market square embraces burlesque
sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions,
plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding
bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is
matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening
attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano
jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every
day from 21:00 - 24:00.QC3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.pl.
Open 09:00 - 02:00. EGW
CLUBS
FRANTIC
Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself
as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pyjamas.QC3, ul. Szewska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00,
Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW
LOKAL
A vast, cavernous and circuitous Cracovian cellar club right
on the Rynek that features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a smoking
room, plenty of snogging nooks and nightly parties that
are always free, Lokal achieves an all-inclusive atmosphere
that somehow maintains a shred of urban cool, despite the
inebriated exuberance of the sexy students that make up
the crowd. The design isnt much aside from the medieval
foundations and some well-deployed epilepsy-inducing
LEDS (also the fact that this bar is brought to you by
Ballantines is hard to miss), and the booming music is mostly
contemporary chest-bouncing dance hits, but anyone
looking for a full aviary of young local birds to chat up will
be well-pleased.QC3, Rynek Gwny 6 (entrance from ul.
Sienna), tel. (+48) 735 00 17 91. Open 12:00 - 04:00. X
PROZAK 2.0
Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to pull
from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on
their tabs, a post-renovation relaunch has gotten Prozak
back into the good graces of Krakws serious clubbing
scene, and back onto the cutting edge with an impressive
line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior remains an
endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with
an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which
to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty
and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until
the natural selection of those with blondes and those with
kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.
QC4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.
prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 2 2:00 08:00; Sun 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. XW
SPOEM DELUXE
This new off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed
Spoem club so successfully captures the atmosphere
and style of its predecessor that it would have been more
aptly dubbed Spoem Redux. With more space than ever
for the surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns,
neons, and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake,
Spoem Deluxe delivers a separate space for smoking and
a mercifully self-contained dance area where the DJ again
spins nostalgic pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without
making conversation elsewhere impossible. Though theres
Nightlife
a dance party every night (except Mon & Wed, which host
karaoke), craft beers and boardgames further let you know
that this isnt a typical nightclub, but one where you can
come as you are (no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor
if the mood strikes you. Thats our kind of place and well
certainly be back.QD2, ul. Floriaska 53, tel. (+48) 12
341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. XW
SZPITALNA 1
This down-the-rabbithole music club near May Rynek has
a slightly scruffy, dive disposition, but thats the appeal
(for us, anyway). Descend the stairs, then more stairs, to
find a space with several stage and dance areas where
alternative rock and blues concerts take place at least once
a week, with DJs shattering ear drums on the weekends
with techno, electronic and drum&bass sounds. The superfriendly international bar staff contribute immensely to the
atmosphere, and depending on the evening you might find
a laid-back ex-pat music-and-brewze session, or a sweaty,
writhing student sexpit; check their FB page for prognosis.
QC3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 61. Open 20:00
- 01:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. EXW
TEATRO CUBANO
Effectively creating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana sidestreet as you shuffle through the alleyway strung with lights
and packed with up-all-night backpackers into the rhythmic
club - complete with linen hanging on the line, a stage for
live acts, and a huge projector screen - this vivacious venue
is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers
from the Little Havana Hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is
a perfect place to get your buzz on with cheap beer and
mixed drinks served fast by efficient barmen, and you can
order platters of sliders (mini-burgers) from the adjoining
Papitos street food stand. With live music every day and DJs
into the wee hours, check their FB page to see what todays
party is. Diversity is something Krakw could use more of,
and this place embraces it.QB3, ul. Jagielloska 10, tel.
(+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 14:00 - 04:00. EW
ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow

+48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm)
+48 510 481 551
Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun
www.paradiseclub.pl
THE BEST
STRIP CLUB
IN CRACOW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
PARADISE CLUB
Boy will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of
strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent
years would seem to confirm that men become lads
when they go abroad. Unfortunately, with the growth
of Krakws naughty clubs come rumours of scams and
shady, sometimes dangerous dealings, which is why we list
Paradise Club in our guide. Right in the centre, enter and
enjoy, and leave when you want without being extorted
for overpriced drinks or having to call a cab to get back to
the Old Town. Inside youll find an executive atmosphere
and plush leather booths surrounding the dance area, so
you wont need to get the binoculars out to observe these
birds of Paradise preening themselves on the clubs two gogo poles.QC2, ul. w. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 510 48 15 51,
www.paradiseclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. X
THE PLACE
WHERE DREAMS
COME TRUE
67
Kazimierz Nightlife
ESZEWERIA
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than
any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world
antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled
walls once played host to some of the citys most novel
concerts, however these days its more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling
off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet
drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the
large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue).
QD6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. UNXW
Alchemia
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish

district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict
buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading
the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and
presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly
captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with
smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under
the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune
with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the areas
clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindlers List,
brought more and more tourists to its historical sights,
Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly
develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today the
area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even
ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace
of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw for a night
out. Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop for tourists,
but it is the districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and
much of the mystique it still carries today.
ALCHEMIA
One of Krakws most evocative bars, the aptly-named
Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight,
forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the
former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in
the evenings Alchemias murky mystique metamorphoses
blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists
queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when its
not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the
best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual
jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od
Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00
(24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QE6, ul. Estery
5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00,
Sun 09:00 - 02:00. EXW
LE SCANDALE
Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the
neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of
sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed
business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden
(heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking
section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious
steaks right in front of you. Home to a large selection of
whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Krakw, Le
Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served
late), sexy service and live music every Sunday from 20:00.
This is modern Krakw at its finest - you may not want to
leave.QD6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www.
lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
UEXW
LES COULEURS
The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs is
a special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced
bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized,
non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop.
Plastered with classic French posters and photos of Serge
Gainsbourg, Kazimierzs most well-lit bar - and one of its
most well-loved - is an anytime affair where cigarettes,
coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangeable and
easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night.
Recommended.QD6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429
42 70. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. 6XW
MIEJSCE
Known simply as The Place in Polish, Miejsce offers a solid
range of craft beers and signature cocktails in an intimate,
artsy atmosphere thats a bit like a hipster house party.
With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the bar
themselves, here youve put yourself at the centre of a
closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
thats the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original and offers a nice departure from the brooding,
gloomy nostalgia of the districts other offerings.QD6, ul.
Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608 49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. UGW
Kazimierz Nightlife
MLECZARNIA
Until about the end of October, this is one Krakws
most glorious beer gardens, and right next to an easily
recognisable film set from Schindlers List. If that parade
gets rained on, take solace in the cross-street interior with
its Old World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture,
murky portraits, wooden floors and floor to ceiling streetside windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A
great place for a romantic evening conversation, afternoon
coffee with a book, and just taking things as they come.
QD6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle.
pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. GW
MOMENT
From locals to tourists, laptoppers to loafers, they take all
kinds in Moment and seem to please them all. Somewhat
retro with low, loungy sofas in splashy fabrics, and a great
menu of bargain breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads
and a range of entrees, Moment and Nova Resto Bar - its
similarly-styled sister venue next door - have captured
Kazimierz in their time-stopping tractor beam. In fact,
Moments plethora of porch seating, evening drink specials
and inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls offer a handy
excuse for missing your next day rendezvous with last
nights club conquest. Though this would certainly be an
ideal place for it.QE6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40
00, www.momentcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00. UGW
SINGER
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented
the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings,
rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district
today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion
of tourists, today Singer still holds much of the magic it did
when it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by
day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn
into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip
and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer,
celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a
Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of
time are obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here.
QD6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 03:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. XW
NEW
TERAPIA GRUPOWA
This small, slick bar will appeal to anyone who appreciates
craft beer, a daring mixed drink and good company. While
some might call it witchcraft, the snappy, well-dressed
showmen behind the bar here arent above adding
rosemary tincture to an IPA, or a shot of whiskey to your
smoked stout. Order from the dense list of innovative
cocktails and you basically get a free show with your drink.
There are two screens for footie, but when the match is
over, enjoy an urban vibe in the modern, post-industrial
interior of huge windows, exposed brick and black leather
booths.QC6, ul. Dietla 15, tel. (+48) 531 60 20 60. Open
17:23 - 02:27, Wed 18:09 - 00:19, Thu 18:09 - 01:11, Sun
17:23 - 00:19. Closed Mon, Tue. 6G
BREWERIES
BROWAR LUBICZ
riginally founded in 1840, this historic brewery has
O
reinvented itself and risen again as a snazzy postindustrial brew-pub producing 11 different craft beers
(including APA, Double-bock and Wit), three of which
snagged medals at the 2015 Golden Beer Poland
competition (with a gold medal going to Lubicz Ciemne
dark lager). If you cant drink them all in one sitting, dont
worry - you can take their full assortment home in bottles,
plus other stylish brewery swag from their shop. Offering
tours, tastings and a full card of delicious regional cuisine
and beer snacks, this is also a great place to catch league
action on the tele. Overall, a lot of care has gone into the
rising of this phoenix, and its a welcome return.QE2,
ul. Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48) 12 353 99 44, www.browarlubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat
13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. UGSW
STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT)
This old tram depot has assumed a second life as
Krakws biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex
of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnias
size is both a blessing and a curse. When the suns out
hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden, but the
enormous main hall is too impractical to open except for
large-scale special events. The smaller out-buildings can
still feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if
you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens
are on hand for football (for Euro 2016 there will be a fan
zone and outdoor screen) and the 5-6 ales they brew onsite (including honey and apple) do well to wash down
the traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also
dont overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you
want to beat your friends in the race to be first under
the table.QE6, ul. w. Wawrzyca 12, tel. (+48) 664
32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Note that opening hours
may be subject to change. (12-45z). UGW
T.E.A. TIME
The name is an acronym for Traditional English Ale,
which they brew on-site and dispense from six draughts
(two of which are hand-pumped). The ales on offer are
in constant rotation, but include a bitter, porter, English
IPA and American wheat, all served by the pint (13.6%
larger than the typical Polish half-litre, and ranging from
10-12z) and half-pint. References to the UK abound in
the interior, and as you might expect, this place is a
major ex-pat magnet, with the boon of staying open a
bit later than the bars back home. Though not far from
Wawel, you wont find it by accident, but its certainly
worth seeking out.QC7, ul. Dietla 1, tel. (+48) 517
60 15 03. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 13:00 - 01:00, Thu
12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. GW
69
Romantic in any season, the fact that its a bit brisk out is only more reason to snuggle up in a horse-drawn carriage. More info on p.74.
Krakw Sightseeing
Krakw is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies
(though that would suffice for most). So put that drink
down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city
- district by district.
Sightseeing
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities in
Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not to come
out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, even the
Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre
during 45 years of supervision, forced to erect their grey
communist Utopia in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a
result, Krakw is today one of the most beautiful showpieces
of Central Europe - a claim validated by its historic centres
inclusion on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978,
along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other
places in the world. A city of majestic architectural monuments,
cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards,
priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens,
Krakws historic centre is the pride of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town (p.72) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter,
p.94), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.90) towering
between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone
visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have been given
their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural
listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life
wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes,
clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (weve
attempted to make a life out of it), dont hesitate to take a trip
across the river into Podgrze (p.100) - arguably the citys
most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage
trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgrze,
where the worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played
out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor
attractions, Kociuszko Mound (p.86). Within these pages
youll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.106),
one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built.
Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws
Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically,
the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram
ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more
should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (p.110),
Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.113) and Tarnw (p.116),
information about all of which youll find in our Further
Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously
updated information in this guide will help you make the
most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and Maopolska.
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KRAKW IN 24HRS
Krakws nucleus is the market square (p.72), and as
such, the first thing you should do after dropping off
your bags is figure out how to get there - on foot, or via
krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.12) if youre staying somewhere
beyond the confines of our map on p.143. Exploring
the Royal Route (p.72) and the market square en
route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with
short stops/detours for culture, coffee and comfort
food - and its exactly what you should do if youre here
with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte (p.57),
and later a filling Polish lunch in Kogel Mogel (p.49), or
go for more familiar fare in Pino (p.34).
Make sure that your time on the market square
coincides with the turning of the hour so you hear
the famous hejna mariacki - the bugle call played
from the tower of St. Marys Basilica (p.76), and visit
the churchs interior to see the magnificent altarpiece.
Also take an hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art
Gallery (p.80) inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of
some of the largest canvases youve ever seen in your
life.
After lunch start working your way down ulica
Grodzka (C4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you
stop inside St. Francis Basilica (p.77) quickly to see
Wyspiaskis colourful interiors and mind-blowing
stained glass window. After admiring the apostles
outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.77),
its on to Wawel Castle (p.90). If theres plenty of
time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent
the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content
yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the
castles interior courtyards (its free to walk around after
all) and later have a stroll along the boulevards of the
Wisa River below the castle.
After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic
dinner in Pod Nosem (p.50) or Copernicus (p.33), or
backtrack a bit more to Restauracja Pod Anioami (p.52)
or Mid Malina (p.50). After dinner return to the heart
of the Old Town for jazz in PiecArt (p.66), cocktails in
Baroque (p.61), or Polish microbrews in Multi Qlti (p.64).
For late night food tourism its Ambasada ledzia (p.42).
Alternatively, this is your chance to check out
Kazimierz (p.94); if youre interested in a klezmer
concert get to Klezmer Hois (p.42) by 20:00, or just go
straight to Plac Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia
(p.68). Make sure you try at least a few flavoured vodkas
and if they do their magic, head to Singer (p.69) after
midnight to start dancing on tables. For late night
hunger pangs, ordering a zapiekanka (p.46) on Plac
Nowy (p.98) is basically obligatory. Now all thats left to
do is fall in love and stay forever...
71
The Royal Route

MAIN MARKET SQUARE
Krakws main market square (Rynek) serves as the
citys gravitational centre, and is the natural start and
finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed
in 1257 - the year Krakw was awarded its charter - the
grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square
have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest
medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by
elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names
and histories. The Rynek has always been the citys natural
assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests
and even executions; it was here that homage to the
King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kociuszko
famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule
in 1794, and here also that Der Fhrer himself announced
the name changed to Adolf Hitler Platz during Nazi
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long
and today the Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture,
hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as
numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice,
p.78) - effectively the worlds first shopping mall, built
in the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed
with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork
and assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek
Underground museum (p.88) traces its history, as well
as that of the entire city, while the second floor hosts the
underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80).
On the squares east side stands one of Krakws bestloved monuments - that of Polands most eminent
scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (p.78) - between the Cloth
Hall and the Ryneks other crowning glory, St. Marys
Basilica (p.76). Dont miss Veit Stoss magnificent
altarpiece inside, or hearing the hourly bugle call
played from its tower.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower (p.89), the only element of the 14th century Town
Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and shortsighted demolitions. Visitors can ascend up lots of stairs
to the 3rd floor for rather underwhelming views to the
west and south, but we dont really recommend it.QC3.
Conrad Cress/istockphoto.com
FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE

This walking tour from the train station to the Castle
takes you past most of the Old Towns major sights more info on which youll find in the following pages.
Floriaska Gate
milangonda, AdobeStock
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with

the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of the
Polish kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route
from the Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less
noble lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train
station (E1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from
the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant
you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known
as the Planty (D2, p.80). Ideal for a fair weather stroll,
the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications
surrounded by a moat. After Polands Third Partition in
the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian
Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected
structures, however thanks to local effort the northern
parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent
Barbican and Floriaska Gate. Walking the two blocks
towards the Barbican, take note of the Sowacki Theatre
(D2, p.73) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous
Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a bit difficult
to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to
the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular
fortress of the Barbican (D2, p.73) was added to the citys
defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D2) that officially began
the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and
youre on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind
the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to
notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street
youll find the Jan Matejko House (C2, p.84), as well as
the under-appreciated Pharmacy Museum (p.87).
The Royal Route

Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C3,
p.72), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the citys social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and
other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall
or Sukiennice (p.78) - a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum (p.88) housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(p.80) on the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving
Floriaska is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral
(p.76) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country
famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. Its
from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a
bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour dont miss it. On the other side of the square youll find the
Town Hall Tower (p.89), with a viewing platform at the top
(open March - October) and a theatre and restaurant in the
former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
Plac Wszystkich witych (C4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C4, p.77) with an Art Nouveau interior by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while
directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiaski
stained glass windows in a specially-made modern
building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of
Saints Peter & Paul (C4, p.77) with its striking sculptures
of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to
your right and youll find yourself on one of Krakws most
handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul
IIs former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house
the Archdiocesan Museum (C5, p.81). Kanonicza lets
out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C5, p.90), the
citys defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisa riverbanks below.
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
Jrg Hackemann - dollar photo club
SOWACKI THEATRE
Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the

Sowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when
construction began, due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it.
Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design
on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished
for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical
figures. Sadly, the interior is off limits to the public
unless there is a production on, however a pleading
look may be enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer
and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-desiecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring
paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone worth the
deviousness needed to sneak in.QD2, Pl. w. Ducha
1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.
BARBICAN
Patryk Michalski / Dollar Photo Club
The showpiece of the citys medieval defences, the

Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main entrance and was connected to
the Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that
surrounded it. With walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece
of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable
and today stands as one of the only surviving structures
of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Krakw
Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130
defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the
Barbican is used for various special events (medieval
pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an
outdoor museum, where youll learn the history of
Krakws defensive walls.QD2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48)
12 422 98 77, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
2nd Monday of each month. Closed from November.
Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes
admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls. YN
73
Old Town
Cracow City
Guides
YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND
Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and

Maopolska region are inviting you to local tours.
s
s
s
s
Half Day City Tour

Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage
Wieliczka Salt Mine local tour
Auschwitz - Birkenau museum local tour
Also available: Full day city tour of Krakw, Zakopane

(winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour,
Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour
Contact: guides@s-tours.pl
Ph: +48 530 170 780
Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00
www.s-tours.pl
CARRIAGE RIDES
If youre wondering
about the ever-popular antique horsedrawn
carriages
that line the market
square, these handsome vehicles are
available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing trot around
town. Operated by a number of different companies,
routes and prices are individually determined with the
driver but the going rate starts from 100z, the most
popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill is
generally 150z (about 30mins), and you can expect
to pay about 350z if you carry on to Kazimierz. Most
carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in your party
has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately the drivers dont disseminate any information about what
youre seeing along the way (see, you might need this
guidebook after all); that bright idea hasnt occurred to
anyone yet. Still, its every girls dream to be lifted into
one of these things, so be prepared. And dont forget
to ask the driver to take your picture; its the least they
can do for the money.QC3, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
535 50 20 10, www.krakowskiedorozki.pl. Carriage
rides are generally available every day 10:00 - 22:00,
rain or shine.
GUIDED TOURS
CRACOW TOURS
A variety of tour packages available, including thematic
city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz,
the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB2, ul.
Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.
pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CRUISING KRAKW BIKE TOURS
Bicycle rental and bike tours around Krakw led by experienced
native English-speaking guides. No booking or bike required,
simply appear at the Adam Mickiewicz monument on Rynek
Gwny at 12:00; cost 85z. Longer bike trips to Las Wolski
(140z), Ojcw (180z) and Tyniec (120z) also available by prior
arrangement, as well as segway tours of Zakrzwek quarry
(370z).QC2, ul. Sawkowska 6, tel. (+48) 12 265 81 05,
www.cruisingkrakow.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car
tours of Krakw, as well as airport transfers and excursions to
Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency exchange
and sales point for the Krakw Tourist Card and museum
tickets. Second, smaller location at Rynek Gwny 30 (open
08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782 44 81 74,
www.discovercracow.eu. Open 08:00 - 20:00. YW
FREE WALKING TOUR
As advertised, this outfit offers free English-language
walking tours of the Old Town every day in October at
10:00, 14:00 and 16:00, leaving from the Barbican (D-2); and
tours of Jewish Krakow at 10:30, 13:30 and 16:30, leaving
from the Old Synagogue (E-6). Both tours last about 2.5
hours and are given by professional licenced tour guides,
so have some cash ready to tip these fine people. Check
their website for November tour times and to see all the
other free tours they offer.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.
freewalkingtour.com.
S-TOURS
This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided
tours of Krakw and the surrounding region for individuals,
rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and
accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and
prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel.
(+48) 530 17 07 80, www.s-tours.pl.
WOW KRAKOW!
Use WOW KRAKOWs iconic red bus at your leisure, getting
a guided tour of the town as it zips between 11 stops,
where you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus
runs from about 09:30 - 18:30, appearing at each stop every
45mins (exact schedule online).QD2, ul. Pawia 8, tel.
(+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl. Tickets 60/40z
for 24hrs, 90/70z for 48hrs; 40/30z if you just want the
tour without getting on and off the bus; kids under 12
free. Free entry to the Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre
and Galicia Jewish Museum included in the price.
Old Town
TOURIST INFORMATION
CRACOW CITY TOURS
Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open
09:00 - 21:00).QD1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. Open 07:30 - 17:00.
Y
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
Also at Rynek Gwny 30 (open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w.
Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782 44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
INFOKRAKW
The official tourist info office run by the city of Krakw,
with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. w.
Jana 2 (C-3), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powile 11 (B-5)
and Pl. Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, Wyspiaski Pavilion).
QC3, Rynek Gwny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433
73 10, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From
November open 09:00 - 17:00.
JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION AND
ACCOMMODATION CENTRE
Also at ul. Duga 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gsia 8
(Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60
91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
SEEKRAKOW
Also in the train station (E-1, open 06:00 - 21:00), at ul.
Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 21:00), and Pl. Wszystkich
witych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30).QC/D2, ul.
Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
TOURIST CARD
The enterprising tourist should consider
picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb
piece of plastic that allows you free entry to
over 40 Krakw museums (thats basically all of them, except Wawel), and
free travel on trams and buses, day and night - including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt Mine. An
impressive savings, two and three day cards are available, priced at 100z and 120z, respectively. Another
option is the Museum & Attractions Pass - essentially
the same card without free transport, valid for three
days, and priced at 70/60z. Every venue listed in our
guide which accepts the Krakw Tourist Card has been
marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available at
most tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors
and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
%
AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
FROM 80 PLN
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
FROM 80 PLN
KRAKW CITY TOUR
FROM 80 PLN
AND MANY OTHERS
75
Old Town
THE HEJNA
CHURCHES
With about 360 religious sanctuaries in this city, weve used
a bit of discrimination in only listing the most remarkable
and unavoidable of the bunch here. The following are all
located sequentially along the Royal Route (p.72), while
Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta churches are listed in
their respective sections.
ST. MARYS BASILICA
After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church
in ruins, St. Marys was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing
foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th
century the towers took the iconic form they have today,
when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and
made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that the
hejna mariacki - the citys famous bugle call - is played
every hour on the hour; dont miss it.
One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the

hejna (pronounced hey-now) a short, melodious
bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four
cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica
(C3). For centuries it has been the job of local firemen
to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the
church bell and perform the hejna precisely on the hour.
A source of pride and family heritage for the few men
chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline,
but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first
written mention of the song dates all the way back to
1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was
apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the
story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city
gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman
saw them coming and played the signal from atop the
defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms.
As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat,
abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day,
the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the
citys vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman
who woke the city and thereby saved it.
Its a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used
commonly across Europe during medieval times to
open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable
that the legend is true. However, some have claimed
that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a
complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest
that an American fabricated the whole legend in
1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor
or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnas living
tradition defines and shapes Krakw. In addition to
pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live
from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be
heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the
radio every day at noon.
Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, starfilled ceiling of St. Marys will take your breath away. The
magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work
of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz)
for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Marys
Quietus among the apostles; note, however, that gradual
conservation work on the altar is currently underway
(projected to last until 2020), and not all elements may
be on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are
polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer
and Wyspiaski done in the late 19th century.
The church is available for worship without paying an entry
fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side
entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the
tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/5z) are purchased in a
separate building across from the tourist entrance. Mariacki
Tower is also open to tourists until the end of October and
an additional ticket is required (15/10z; no admission for kids
under 7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).QC3,
Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.
com. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Tower open
09:00 - 11:10 and 13:10 - 17:30, Sun 13:00 - 17:00, closed
Mon; Closed from November. Last entrance 15mins before
closing. Y
St. Marys altarpiece
Old Town
ST. ADALBERTS CHURCH

Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan
at the southeast corner of the market square - a mad
mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and
Baroque architecture. The earliest parts of the building
date to the 11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and
explaining why the floor sits some two metres below
it. The best way to experience the church is during the
frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra.
Notethat restoration work means only the Chapel of St.
Vincent is currently accessible (open 08:30 - 17:00; no
visiting during mass).QC3, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
12 422 83 52. Y
ST. FRANCIS BASILICA
Krakws most colourful church, and our personal
favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors
by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely
balance the organic and geometric with unique floral
patterns. Wyspiaski also made the eight stained-glass
windows around 1895, including the controversial
and iconic centrepiece, God the Father in the Act of
Creation. Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis
Basilica was the first brick building in the city and
is well worth popping in, even for those who could
care less for looking at another church.QC4, Pl.
Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.
franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sun 13:00 15:00. No visiting during mass please.
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

Krakws premier Jesuit Church was built in the
early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national
pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and
culture (Sawomir Mroek was the first interred here in
September 2013). The twelve disciples standing on the
gates outside are the churchs most striking feature,
although the interior has been extensively renovated
and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance
building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault
Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon
Foucault in 1851 which proves the earths rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at
10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be
sure.QC4, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65,
www.apostolowie.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30
- 17:30.
ST. ANDREWS CHURCH
St. Andrews offers the finest example of Romanesque
architecture in Krakw. Built between 1079 and 1098, it
has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used
as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the
relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a
letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the
mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.
QC4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by
prior arrangement.
77
Old Town
THE CLOTH HALL
The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market
square, the origins and development of Krakws Cloth
Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a
structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century.
When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction
of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century,
Krakws importance as an east-west trading post
vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the
name Sukiennice literally refers to textiles and fabrics,
Krakws Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities
bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax,
spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire in the mid-16th
century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift
by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent
building in all of Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians
tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the
addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko.
The interior was converted into a series of wooden
stalls and in 1879 the first Polish National Museum was
established on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall
the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism.
The 20th century saw much of the 19th century
interior replaced, but by the start of the 21st century,
it was again in need of attention in order to meet
the standards of a modern museum or commercial
area. From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given
a complete modernisation and the 19th Century
Polish Art Gallery (p.80) was reopened on the upper
floor. The buildings sloped attics were converted into
lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Sza now
offers great views overlooking the market square and
St. Marys Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean
Rynek Underground Museum (p.88) details the
historical development of the area around the market
square, and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.58)
on the ground floor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Jzef
Mehoffer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth
Halls central thoroughfare is essential, after which you
can claim that youve been in worlds oldest shopping
mall.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, mnk.pl.
Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT
One of the most important statues in Poland, the large
likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam
Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to
celebrate the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so
many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the
occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country! and
who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down
the road at Wawel.QC3, Rynek Gwny.
EROS BENDATO
Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a
photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits
the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head, the bronze
body parts official title is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is
the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student
of Tadeusz Kantor at the Krakw School of Art, an exhibition
of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works dressed the Rynek
from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist
gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what
to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building. Despite protest from historians and many locals,
the sculpture eventually found its current place near the
Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected
tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen crawling
all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads and limbs
through the eyeholes for camera-snapping parents,
though winter too often finds it profaned with trash and
foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitorajs work will find another
of his large sculptures titled Luci di Nara - adorning the
charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum (ul. Grodzka
53, C-4), and another in front of the Krakw Opera building
(ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB3, Rynek Gwny.
Old Town
GRUNWALD MONUMENT
Maria Brzostowska, AdobeStock
The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies

of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian
Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest
battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of
the most important military victories in Polish history.
This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an
estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the
event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulskis original
masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during
WWII and the copy you see today was made from his
original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his
horse is Polish King Wadysaw Jagieo, his sword pointing
downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin
the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked
on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army.
The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the
Teutonic Orders Grand Master, who lost his life during the
battle.QD1, Pl. Matejki.
JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT
Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument
pays homage to one of Polands greatest painters, and
one of Krakws most beloved sons. Famous for his
epic and outsized historical paintings, which have been
reproduced enough to become imprinted within the
national psyche, Matejkos work can be seen throughout
Krakw from Collegium Novum to the 19th Century Polish
Art Gallery in the Cloth Hall (p.80), to the monumental
polychrome he did inside St. Marys Basilica in his final
years. Educated in Krakw and later principal of the
Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire
generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiaski,
Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument,
which depicts the artist seated within a large pictureframe, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located beside the
Barbican along what was Matejkos daily walk from his
home to the Fine Arts Academy which now bears his
name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour).
To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum
at ul. Floriaska 41 (p.84).QD2, ul. Basztowa.
79
Old Town
MUSEUMS
THE PLANTY
The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while

museums in Kazimierz (p.94), Podgrze (p.100) and Nowa
Huta (p.106) are listed in their respective sections of the
guide.
19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY
agneskantaruk, AdobeStock
Once the site of the citys 13th century defensive

fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and
the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriaska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th
century. While today its easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Krakws medieval city walls, we can
thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely
strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old
Town. Known as the lungs of the city, the Planty is one
of Krakws most unique and charming features - three
kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees,
flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its
circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians
to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public
will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples
to make out, if you havent smooched someone on a
park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then
you havent finished your itinerary.QC4/5.
POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM

Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe,
this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds
a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits
related not only to Polish, but world aviation history
and heritage. The museum features a new exhibition
building bursting with interactive displays and an
extensive collection of historic aircraft, plus a cinema.
The original exhibits in the airfields numerous hangars
and out-buildings are stuffed with old photographs,
engines, uniforms and plenty more airplanes,
helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding
them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from
the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays
are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it)
that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly.
A bit out of the centre, to get there take tram 52 from
Dworzec Gwny (D-2) to Muzeum Lotnictwa.QAl.
Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00,
www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15/7z, family ticket 34z;
Tue free. YU
This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall

covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small,
giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are
enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost
everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a
national treasure, and the collection also includes works
by Jacek Malczewski, Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw
Witkiewicz, as well as Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous
Frenzy from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in
Krakw, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is
access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market
square. Recommended.QC3, Cloth Hall, Rynek Gwny
3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 16/9z, family
ticket 26z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid
ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the
Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (1z
charge if you arent visiting the museum) - a great place to
relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As for
exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does boast the
Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence,
part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Maopolska. Other
permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery, Peruvian
artefacts, and ancient Egypt - the latter best enjoyed with
the aid of an audio guide (5z). Additionally, youll find an
exhibit on the history of the monastery and museum itself
(separate ticket required, 3/2z).QB4, ul. Poselska 3, tel.
(+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
9/6z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N
Old Town
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM
OF CARDINAL KAROL WOJTYA
John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on
show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms.
The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented
showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the
13th century. Among the items on display you will find
presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice,
but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal
enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by overzealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and
groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A
second branch of this museum - the Wojtya Apartment
at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4) - shows the apartment where the
future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open
10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21,
tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl.
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5/3z, family ticket 12z. Guided tours 60z.
YN
BISHOP ERAZM CIOEK PALACE
Reopened after a 2015 renovation, this early 14th century
palace holds three permanent exhibitions: Krakw At
Your Fingertips, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th
Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
The first is a depository of local architectural sculpture
fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of art was applied to
non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Krakws own
churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb,
if thats your thing. If its not, its a bit of a snooze-fest.QC5,
ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26
(with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U
CITY DEFENSIVE WALLS
This small, seasonal museum is in turns uninformative and
overly informative, but basically it gives you a chance to
climb around whats left of Krakws 13th century defensive
walls. Intended as the first leg of a combined visit with the
nearby Barbican, youll pass a few silly mannequins, watch
a strange video, and have some great photo opportunities
over Floriaska Street, while walking the short length of
wall between Krakws three surviving defensive towers,
learning about the 40-odd others demolished by the
Austrians in the 18th century.QD2, ul. Pijarska, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 61, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
2nd Monday of each month. Closed from November.
Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes
admission to the Barbican. YN
Full contents online:

81
Old Town
FORMER GESTAPO CELLS
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers

the most chilling museum experience in Krakw (which is
saying something). Located in the Dom lski, or Silesian
House, this infamous building became the Krakw
headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted
its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and
torture of political prisoners. These cells have been
preserved and are free and open to the public as the
Former Gestapo Cells - immediately to your right as you
enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage
you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin
with the buildings main exhibit People of Krakow in
Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956, entered via a staircase in
the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent
exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the citys
not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of
both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Krakw through an
abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings
and other archival materials. From the first victims
executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the
mid-50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in
vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the
Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600
inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting
their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering
and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of
Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect,
there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for
the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile
and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes
for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the
market square, near the tram stop Plac Inwalidw.QH1,
ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. From November
open 09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z, Tue free.
Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y
EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE

Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten
Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was
opened in 2013 and houses the citys large collection of
European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting
lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo
Lottos 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the
consensus most-valuable foreign work in the possession of
Krakws National Museum, other highlights include John
the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger,
The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early
Renaissance Italian paintings. While were happy to see this
collection find a permanent home, those who have seen
their share of European art museums can probably justify
skipping it.QA3, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57
60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z; family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free;
Sun free. Y
Europeum
GALLERY OF ANCIENT ART

This small branch of the National Museum is also a
satellite of the Czartoryski Museum across the street,
and brings together three unique collections of
ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th and 20th
centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki family
of Krzeszowice and the Krakw National Museum.
On display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt,
Greece and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to
the 7th century AD, with highlights including marble
sculptures, Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies.
Currently on display is also one of only six oil landscape
paintings by Rembrandt - Landscape with the Good
Samaritan. Its amazing that these items found their
way to Krakw and they provide an interesting look at
the material culture of the ancient world, but are hardly
required viewing for those without a special interest in
antiquity.QC2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 370 54 60,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
13/8z, familly ticket 22z, kids 7-16 and students
under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday
free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Old Town
HIPOLIT HOUSE
The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this
fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning
of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back
considerably further than that. The inside has been
transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish
bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century,
and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. From November open
09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7z,
family ticket 18z. Wed free. YN
Hipolit House
Courtesy of History Museum
HISTORY MUSEUM
Established in 1899, Krakws History Museum - also
known as Krzysztofory Palace - has been undergoing
an extensive transformation over the last several years,
including the renovation of the 17th century Baroque
building that houses it, the complete digitisation of
the museum collection, and the preparation of a new
ambitious permanent exhibit. The first part of the future
permanent exhibit, titled Cyberteka. Krakw - Time &
Space, is now open and chronicles the spatial and urban
development of the city from its earliest beginnings until
about 1915, via spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films
(note this exhibit is free on Tues). Krzysztofory Palace is
also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs,
posters, books and other information available.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8z,
family ticket 24z. Y
HOME ARMY MUSEUM
This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium)
to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the
size, organisation and efforts of Polands underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces
official disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing
fight for freedom within the countrys two occupied
JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY
COLLEGIUM MAIUS
Jagiellonian Universitys oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Krakw), Collegium Maius was built as
the universitys main campus in the late 14th century,
36 years after the universitys founding. A century
later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure
surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that
has survived to this day. While professors lived and
worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture
halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in
the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a
museum, hour-long guided tours of the interiors and
exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12z),
while more basic 30-minute tours in English depart
every 20 minutes (12/6z); it is suggested, however,
that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself
a place on a tour. Inside youll visit the lecture hall,
common rooms, professors quarters, library and
treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings,
furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors
maces and other university memorabilia along the
way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict
the Americas. From September there will also be a
separate exhibit entitled Science: Antiquated & Notso-antiquated (rough translation; exhibit open 09:00
- 13:30; closed Sun. Admission 7/5z). Another highlight
of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden
historical figures appear and parade past to music from
the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00
and 17:00. The buildings courtyard also houses a gift
shop and cafe, and dont miss the peaceful Professors
Garden just next door (accessible via a beautiful
painted passageway April - October).QB3, ul.
Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.
uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:20; Tue, Thu 10:00 - 17:20.
Closed Sun. From November open 10:00 - 14:20; Tue
10:00 - 15:20. Closed Sun. Admission 12/6z (30min
tour), 16/12z (1hr tour); admission free for selfguided tours Tue 15:00 - 17:20, from November Tue
14:00 - 15:20. N
83
Old Town
ALL SAINTS DAY
Visitors expecting a wild Halloween full of costume

parties and debauchery may be surprised to learn that
in Poland the holiday is completely overshadowed by
the rather sobering, sombre proceedings of November
1st and 2nd Known nationally as All Saints Day
(Dzie Wszystkich witych) and All Souls Day
(Dzie Zaduszny, or Dzie Wszystkich Zmarych)
respectively, these two days of the year are dedicated
to prayer and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting
their graves. In accordance with tradition, Catholic
families all over Poland will make pilgrimages to the
resting places of their relatives, tending the graves
with a care that is truly touching, before laying wreaths,
flowers and candles that will be kept lit throughout the
length of the holiday. As night descends, the countrys
graveyards are aglow with the warm light of literally
thousands of flickering candles, creating an eerie,
incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be
missed by anyone with a heart that still beats.
As it happens, Krakw is perhaps Polands most
evocative, necropolitan city in which to witness these
events. While visitors to the city may not have ancestors
buried here, a trip to one of Krakws cemeteries during
this unforgettable ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While
we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow of
the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and
psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers
and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees,
the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the
supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, wed
prefer you just experience it for yourself. Take a candle
along with you.
As one of Polands most important public holidays,
only public transportation and emergency response
employees as obliged to work on November 1st (which
falls on a Tuesday in 2016), so dont be surprised to
find your favourite shop, restaurant or bar bolted shut.
Krakws Catholic cemeteries, in contrast, will be open
until last guest, and weve listed those in the centre
on the adjacent page so that you too can join in this
inspiring tradition.
zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War IIs less

acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous
museum goes to great length to demonstrate that
Polands government, military and civilian population
never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing
and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to
dish out the 100z (plus ticket price) for a guided tour.
Nevertheless its a must for those interested in WWII
history, and you should reserve at least two hours for
visiting.QJ1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07
70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
13/7z. Sun free for permanent exhibit. YU
HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM
Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Krakw, this branch of the Krakw National
Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish
numismatics - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes
and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski,
who once owned the place, also includes old books,
manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from
the medieval period to today. The displays are gorgeous
and additional info (in Polish and English) about each
artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers.
Guarded by a fantastic gargoyle out front, the palace
and gardens have been stunningly restored, and April
2016 saw the opening of the Jzef Czapski Pavilion
- separate modern exhibition hall behind the main
palace, and home to a biographical exhibit about Jzef
Czapski (artist, author, patriot and grandson of Emeryk),
plus temporary exhibits. Your ticket is good for both, but
despite the world-class displays, this one should probably
be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascination
for coin collecting. Is that you?QA3, ul. Pisudskiego
12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family
ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
JAN MATEJKO HOUSE
Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical painter
whose work and life is honoured in the house where he
was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s.
As well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval
life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance
furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of
Matejkos life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses
in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute
to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts,
fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century
Polish Art Gallery (p.80) where many of his greatest
works are displayed.QD3, ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48)
12 433 59 60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket
19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID)
1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
Old Town
JZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION
Opened in April 2016, this small modern building
behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace now comprises part
of the National Museums Czapski complex, along with
the gardens between the two buildings. Dedicated to
Jzef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, patriot, writer,
critic, intellectual, Katy survivor and grandson of
Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection
is on display 100m away) - the permanent exhibit is a
biographical look at his life via the archival materials
and personal effects he left to the city upon his passing
in 1993. Theres also space for temporary exhibits, a
reconstruction of the artists room as it looked in France,
a reading room and cafe. Modern and gorgeously
presented, the National Museum has done a wonderful
job here; the only question is of what interest it will be
to the average foreign visitor. Tickets are also valid for the
Hutten-Czapski Museum.QA3, ul. Pisudskiego 12, tel.
(+48) 12 433 58 40, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family
ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
Photo MNK, Miroslaw Zak
MANGGHA
The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology
has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese
cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks
Jasieskis fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese
artefacts. Located on the Wisa riverbanks across from
Wawel, the original exceedingly modern building was
funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda
upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987; July 2015 saw
the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery,
which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits,
several of which are on at any given time (check their
website for specifics).QB6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel.
(+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15z, family ticket
35z, children age 7-16 1z (does not apply to groups),
group ticket 100z (up to 30 people), Tue free. Guided
tours 100z.
CEMETERIES
RAKOWICKI CEMETERY
The largest and most important of Krakows cemeteries,
Rakowicki is also its most moving site during All Saints.
Within the astounding candlelight youll find many
fine examples of sepulchral art, as well as impressive
memorials to Polands 20th century struggles. Across
the street is Krakws Military Cemetery, and together
they represent an important source of Polish patriotism.
A twenty minute walk from the market square, simply
follow the throng, or take tram number 2 to the end of
the line and throng it from there.QJ1, ul. Rakowicka
26. Open 07:30 - 19:00.
NEW PODGRZE CEMETERY
This a large, picturesque memorial park is our
favourite cemetery to visit over the holiday thanks
to its basin-shape which creates an amphitheatre
of coloured candlelight. Located behind Krakus
Mound, if visiting on All Souls Day (Nov. 2nd)
dont be surprised to find locals celebrating
modern paganism on top of the mound around
midnight, from which you can also catch views of
every cemetery in Krakw glowing in the distance.
Serviced by its own stop called Cmentarz Podgrski,
you can get there by catching tram 3 from Dworzec
Gwny, tram 6 from Plac Wolnica, or tram 24 from
Poczta Gwna.QK5, ul. Wapienna 13, tel. (+48)
12 656 17 25. Open 07:00 - 18:00.
SALWATOR CEMETERY
On the hillside beneath Kociuszko Mound, this
cemetery lies in one of Krakws most beautiful
districts. A more intimate affair than Rakowicki, souls
that report here will enjoy spookier surroundings with
grand views of the city and valley below. Its also more
of a pilgrimage: take tram number 1 to its terminus at
Salwator and enjoy the picturesque 10 minute stroll
uphill along tree-lined ul. w. Bronisawy.QG3, Al.
Waszyngtona 1. Open 07:00 - 18:00.
85
Old Town
KOCIUSZKO MOUND
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko (17461817). Having fought with distinction in the American War
of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection
against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedomfighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as the purest
son of liberty that I have ever known. Upon his passing,
such was the peoples love that they proposed to honour
him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric
mounds of King Krak (p.102) and Wanda (p.109) - and
to make it the grandest in Krakw. Construction of an
artificial burial mound atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec
began with a mass, followed by speeches; artefacts from
Kociuszkos illustrious life were placed, including soil
from his many battlefields, before friends, statesmen and
foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of
dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought
soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a
committee was formed for its oversight, the work was
all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November
1823, Kociuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above
sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be
seen from the top.
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they
used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later
threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they
set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along
with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress
were destroyed, the complex has been restored and
significant engineering improvements have been
made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is
tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile
reward. The surrounding fortifications also house two
cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum
and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission to
all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound.
To get there take trams 1, 2 or 6 to Salwator, from
which its a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. w Bronisawa.
The walk is all uphill though, so if youre awaiting a
hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from
there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town
is about 30z.QF3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12
425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound open
09:00 until dusk. Exhibits open 09:30 - 17:00. From
November open 09:30 - 15:00. Admission 12/10z,
family ticket 30-40z.
JZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE

Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th centurys artistic elite,
a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiaski
on the interiors of numerous Krakw churches, as well as his
own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the
artists of the Moda Polska (Young Poland) movement often
met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art
Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and
finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic
legacy. In warmer months you wont find a more magical
place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind
the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the citys bestkept secrets.QA2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z,
family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING

Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians
would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have in
fact excelled in the arts, and the National Museum of Art in
Krakw showcases many superb examples of their work. As
well as a number of world-class temporary shows (for which
separate tickets are required, admission varies), the museum
also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry,
and its entire top floor is devoted to the permanent 20thcentury Polish Art exhibition - a truly awesome collection
showcasing the works of such visionaries as Kantor, Witkacy
and Wyspiaski (whose epic monument stands outside the
entrance) that any gallery would be proud to own. Aside from
perhaps Wawel, this is the largest museum in Krakw, so youd
be wise to focus on what youre most interested in; to see it all
would take the entire day. The museum also houses a small
shop and cafe.QH3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission for permanent exhibits 11/6z, family ticket 20z,
kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids
under 7 free; Sun free. Admission for temporary exhibits,
and joint admission for permanent and temporary exhibits,
varies depending on the exhibit. YU
Old Town
PHARMACY MUSEUM
Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building,
Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five
floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale
reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some
beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good
display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is
an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave
Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in
the Krakw Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising
museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QC2,
ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/6z. N
NEW
POLONIA WAX MUSEUM
Infiltrating Krakws market square under the pretence of
World Youth Day, it now seems the city will continue to
collect their rent money as long as they keep paying on
time. As a result, locals and tourists alike are invited to a
veritable Polish history lesson, meticulously arranged in
wax and fibres, as you wind your way through thematically
arranged rooms covering the interwar period, WWII, the
70s, 80s, 90s and up to modern times. Although rather
patriotic, the collection isnt limited to Polish characters;
here youll also see up close (and be able to snap selfies
with!) such wax museum stalwarts like Johnny Depp,
Spiderman, Mother Teresa and three Popes. Prices are
steep, but you can save 10z off the entry fee by proving
you liked their FB page.QC3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel.
(+48) 502 79 94 45, www.poloniawaxmuseum.com.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30/20z, family ticket
(2+2) 20z, children under 7 free, groups over 12: 10z
per person. U
KRAKW
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Visitors should note that all
branches of the National Museum are free on Sundays,
and students under 26 (with
proper ID) pay only 1z all
other days. Also, ambitious
tourists can buy one ticket
that is valid for all branches
for six months for only 35/28z; thats a heck of a deal
and includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Bishop
Erazm Cioek Palace, Europeum, Gallery of Ancient Art,
Hutten-Czapski Museum, Jan Matejko House, Jzef
Czapski Pavilion, Jzef Mehoffer House, the National
Museum - Main Building, and the Szoayski House. To
learn about some of the current temporary exhibits in
these museum branches, visit our Events section (p.21).
87
Old Town
TYSKIE BREWERY
MUSEUM OF THE DUKES BREWERY IN TYCHY

The Tyskie Brewery, located some 10km south of
Katowice in the town of Tychy, has been brewing
beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally
German-owned, today Polands most famous brewery
produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually,
and 14 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager
- Polands bestselling beer. The enormous historical
brewing complex is one of Silesias architectural
marvels, much of which is open to the public for
guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a
humorous and informative guide, the Tyskie tour takes
visitors through the entire modern production process
and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning
in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside a
red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902, this rather
superb space combines modernity and tradition across
several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of
brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of
historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia.
A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery
through the ages. Next your tour takes you through
parts of the production plant, starting from the Old
Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with
decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have
had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside
them. Highlights include saucy tales from the socalled Bachelors Quarters, a glimpse of the brewerys
own railway station and a look inside the fabulously
fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes
with a free pint in the on-site pub. Tours are available
in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech and Russian,
and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20z, take
the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, which includes
workshops and tastings with a beer expert.
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey takes about 1.5hrs. Alternatively,
the train takes about 3hrs and involves a change in
Katowice; the brewery is only a short walk from Tychy
train station.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327
84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun, Last entrance 2.5 hours before closing.
Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to
book a place on the tour. Admission 15/10z.
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four
metres under the surface of the market square to explore
the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that predate
todays Cloth Hall, and to experience the citys entire history from its first settlers right up today over the course of some
6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museums
popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a
time, timed tickets should be bought in advance to avoid
long queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability.
This can be done either online or from the information office
confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall
from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance
is located on the side opposite St. Marys Basilica, of course,
and once youve negotiated the scrum of getting inside your
experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of
smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits
displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying
heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a
fascinating look into life before Krakw received its charter and
the market square was laid out, displays on trade and transport
in the city, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance
by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century
cemetery replete with vampire prevention burials (seriously).
Visitors should also reserve time to view the excellent series
of short, subtitled documentaries covering different ages
of Krakows history at the end of the tour route. In addition
to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in
English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.mhk.pl.
Open 10:00 - 22:00; Mon 10:00 - 20:00; Tue 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed 2nd Mon of each month. From November open
10:00 - 20:00; Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed 2nd Mon of each
month. Last entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission
19/16z, family ticket 38 z, Tue free. Audioguide 5z. Y
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM
Located in the premises of S.G. eleskis historic stained glass
studio, this living museum offers the truly unique opportunity
of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where youll
witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in
producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb
designs and examples of finished works from throughout the
over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the cradle
of Polish stained glass art, eleski opened this studio in
1902 as a place for the best artists of the Moda Polska/Art
Old Town
Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as
Wyspiaski, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan).
Many of PLs most outstanding examples of stained glass
were created here, and today the studio remains the largest
of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide
and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish
(at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass
workshops can also be arranged (in Polish, English, French,
Italian or German). The museum now also includes a cafe and
gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces
created on-site in the workshop. Though more expensive
than other museums, a visit is absolutely worth it for fans of
the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH3, Al.
Krasiskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, stainedglass.pl.
Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 32/24z
per person in English; 25/18z in Polish. N
SZOAYSKI HOUSE
This well-located branch of the National Museum offers
several temporary exhibits at any given time. On the ground
floor is a small free exhibit that honours Krakws Grand Dame
of poetry Wisawa Szymborska by displaying articles collected
from her apartment after her passing in 2012. Upstairs from
October 8th will be a new exhibit - Rodin/Dunikowski.
Visions of Women - presenting objects by the French master
and Polish artist, all of which depict women, and 30 of which
come here straight from Paris Rodin Museum. The Tribecca
cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge the
batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of artbooks.
QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, mnk.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. YU
View from the Town Hall Tower
TOWN HALL TOWER

After many fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions, the
only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining is this
70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth Hall. As a
museum, it offers little aside from some medieval costumes,
black and white photos, information about the clock at its top,
decent views, and lots of stairs. With the balconies off limits,
you can take some so-so snaps by leaning out the open
windows, but they arent the calendar quality panoramas you
might be anticipating. Overall wed say a visit here is overpriced, underwhelming, and completely skippable.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43 34, www.mhk.pl.
Open 10:30 - 18:00. From November open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed first Tue of each month. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z. YN
89
Wawel
Admiring the Renaissance courtyard at Wawel. | efektstudio80 - dollarphotoclub
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the

hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings
in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and
not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely
Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and
Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment
of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic
architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards,
Wawel is the crown jewel of Krakws architectural treasures
and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail
to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of
which the former contains most, but by no means all of
the exhibitions, Wawels must-see highlights include the
Cathedrals mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of
Polands very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury
and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards
and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolesk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
Read more about Wawel online:

iyp.me/wawel
WAWEL CASTLE
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power predates
the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD.
Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a
fortified castle before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.
The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Wadysaw the Short (1306-1333) on January 20,
1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35
royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All
of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle
fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it
as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish
several buildings including a number of churches on the
site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a
number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number
of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as
the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status as
a truly world-class city.QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422
51 55 (ext.219), www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel
STATE ROOMS
The main exhibition of Wawel Castles interiors, the
spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the
ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent
Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments
on the second floor. These are the rooms where the
royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions
of the Senate, and hosted guests. Full of luscious oil
paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly
extraordinary wallpaper, highlights include the Senators
Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the
first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys Room complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling
(originally there were 194!) and an original throne that
really brings the majesty of Polands past to life. Absolutely
worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the
extravagance.QC5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. From November
open 09:30 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed Mon. Last
entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 18/11z; from
November 16/9z; Sun free (ticket still required).
WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE

Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets
for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor
Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the
reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except
for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language
guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance.
In addition to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre
is also the place to get more info about various seasonal
and theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use
of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/restaurant and
toilets.QB6, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext.
219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
From November open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:00.
ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS

The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation
of the State Rooms tour of the castles interiors, and equally
stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed
with a guide. Consisting of the royal bedchambers and
guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the
royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with
delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min
guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom,
complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling,
and the charmingly-named, but mysterious Hens Foot
- two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere
Tower, which offer great views of Krakws Old Town, but
whose original function is unknown.QC5, www.wawel.
krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00;
closed Mon. From November open 09:30 - 16:00; closed
Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission
25/19z; from November 21/16z.
LOST WAWEL
Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the
smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on
the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin
Mary - Krakws first church, and the most well-preserved
pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal
kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several
lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful
Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions
of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years
ago. Be aware that due to conservation works, the number
of tickets for sale is limited.QC5, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. From November open 09:30 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 10/7z, Mon free (but ticket still required check ticket office for availability); from November Sun
free (ticket still required).
CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY

Containing Polands very own equivalent of the Crown
Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury &
Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of
the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left,
the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden
and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels,
of which Szczerbiec - the countrys original coronation
sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.QC5,
www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00; Mon 09:30
- 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. From November open
09:30 - 16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1hr before
closing. Admission 18/11z, Mon free (but ticket still
required); from November 16/9z.
ORIENTAL ART
This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises
art from the Near East which was highly prized and
fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered
the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey,
Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique
collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain,
but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the
trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured
during King Jan Sobieski IIIs famous victory over the
Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman
commander Kara Mustapha Paras sabre. Be aware that
due to conservation works, the number of tickets for sale
is limited.QC5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. Last entrance
1hr before closing. From November visiting is possible
Tue-Sat at 11:00 and 14:00 only. Admission 8/5z; from
November 7/4z.
91
Wawel
LADY WITH AN ERMINE
Krakws prized art piece is
this Leonardo Da Vinci canvas
- one of only three Da Vinci
oil paintings in the world,
and a sentimental favourite
of Poles, reproduced and
hung in many a home.
Leonardos Lady has a
chequered history; when she
isnt entertaining she always
seems to be on the run or
in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the
map completely, before having a rendezvous with
Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in
1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home
to his native Poland, where she was part of the family
until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel until its
proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened
after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in
depth information about its complicated history and
authenticity, the priceless painting requires a separate
admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be missed.
QC5, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open
09:30 - 17:00; Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From
November open 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 10/8z; from November Sun free (but
ticket still required; check ticket office for availability).
CATHEDRAL TICKETS
The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices.
Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the
ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance.
While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you
will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts
and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these
as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are
recommended to make the most of the experience, and
can be rented here for 7/5z (in Polish, English, German,
Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).
QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z. Note that the
Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is
valid to visit another day.
Wawel Cathedral
milangonda - dollar photo club
WAWEL CATHEDRAL
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral
is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral
was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly
after the founding of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD.
Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that
subsequently burnt down again. The current building was
consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Polands first
king to be crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka.
Wadysaw the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned
among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319.
Considered the most important single building in Poland,
Wawels extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is
original, although many glorious additions have been
made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that
of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel
Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings
thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside.
At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop
of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably grand
monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after
whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all
of them about as ostentatious as youre ever likely to see, of
particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy
Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some
wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble
sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a cold
and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of
kings and statesmen most recently former president Lech
Kaczyski while at the top of a gruelling wooden series
of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so
loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QB5, Wawel
3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. From November
open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
CATHEDRAL MUSEUM
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before he became
Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups
and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its
most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately
Wawel
snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist
king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the
Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation
robes and royal insignias to boot.QB5, Wawel 2, tel.
(+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. From November open 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing.
SIGISMUND BELL
Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs
to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding
symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphias Liberty
Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower,
Sigismunds Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total
tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm
in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like
the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyski and his wife)
the bells peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and
is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers
who are actually lifted from the ground by the bells force.
The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good
for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket
office across from the Cathedral entrance.QB5, Wawel
3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. From November
open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
ROYAL CRYPTS
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault.
He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains
of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases,
their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy
(and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to
statesmen with Prince Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and
Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef Pisudski (1935) and General
Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place
here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria were controversially
interred here after the tragedy in Smolesk; admission to
their tomb (and that of Pisudski) is free. Descend the stairs
inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers,
beginning with the 11th century St. Leonards Crypt - the
best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back
outside.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 17:00. From November open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
DRAGONS DEN
dianaopryshko, Adobe Stock
Formed about 25 million years ago, the spectacular

limestone formation of Wawel Hill is not the solid piece
of rock it appears to be, but rather filled with eerie caves
and crawl spaces. As legend would have it, the craggy
chambers beneath Wawel were once home to Smok
Wawelski, or the Wawel Dragon, a particularly nasty
creature who liked nothing more than to gorge himself
on sheep and local maidens. Story goes that as the
village ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand
of his only daughter to the hero who could vanquish
the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights fell
beneath the dragons fiery breath before a poor cobbler
named Krak tricked Smok into eating a sheep stuffed
full of sulphur, which instantly ignited inside his gullet.
With an unquenchable thirst the dragon went and
drank half the river before his distended belly exploded
and the town was freed of his wrath. Krak married the
princess, of course, became king, built his castle on
the dragons lair and the people built a city around it
named Krakw after their saviour king.
Smoks bones were hung triumphantly outside the
entrance of the Cathedral, where they remain today.
His cave became a famous tavern and brothel during
medieval times and today functions as a tourist trap
luring families into its dripping, less than awe-inspiring
confines (kids love it!). Save this for last since the route
through the caves leads you down a descending
staircase inside the castle courtyard to be later deposited
outside the complex on the riverbank below, right in
front of Smoks sculpted bronze likeness unveiled in
1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisaw Chromy. It
was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would
send him into temporary raptures of fire-breathing
bliss, however he now does it without checking his
phone first, so just be patient and dont look down
his throat.QB6, Western, low end of Wawel Hill,
www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
from November. Admission 3z. Tickets are purchased
from a machine outside the entrance (note that it
only takes coins and doesnt give change!).
93
Kazimierz
Temple Synagogue (p.99) | photo by Artur Turyna, wawel.net
Kazimierz the district south of the Old Town between

the Wisa River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisa
once flowed) was the centre of Jewish life in Krakw
for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. In the communist era it became
one of Krakws dodgiest districts while gradually falling
into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the
fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the
lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound
and is today arguably Krakws most exciting district a
bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical
sites, atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Well-known
for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces
of Kazimierzs Jewish history have not only survived, but
literally abound in the form of the districts numerous
synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other
place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture
better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become
a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and
contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned
to prove that theres more to Kazimierz than just sepia
photographs and old synagogues.
In addition to Jewish culture, however, here youll find
the heart of Krakws artistic, bohemian character behind
the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art
galleries. Peeling faades and obscure courtyards hide
dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of prewar timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish
square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged
as the citys best destination for caf culture, street food
and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities,
Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
WHAT TO SEE
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than
an actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierzs first
Jewish merchants settled, and the square is bookended
by two of the citys most important synagogues - the Old
Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue (p.98), whose
historic cemetery extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba;
beside the entrance of the latter youll find a monument
of Jan Karski - Righteous Among the Nations for his
efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Nazi genocide
during WWII. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the Klezmer Hois hotel
and restaurant, p.42) formerly housed the Great Mikvah,
a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when the
wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned. Nearby
beneath a ring of maples at the streets northern end is a
memorial and Place of meditation upon the martyrdom
of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow.
Today ul. Szerokas picturesque cobbled lanes are primarily
lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully aimed at
tourists, including Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) so named
because the Queen of Cosmetics was born next door at
number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Once Upon
a Time in Kazimierz, ul. Szeroka 1, p.42), with its row of faux
Jewish shop fronts; next door youll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka
2), the areas first Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Jzefa just past the Old
Synagogue, youll find the High Synagogue (p.97) at
number 38, so called because the prayer room was located
Kazimierz
on the first floor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop
(p.126) and a small exhibition space with rotating historical
exhibits about the history of Polands Jewish population.
Along this block of ul. Jzefa you can easily spot
indentations left by mezuzahs, and a Hebrew inscription
on the building next door to the High Synagogue. Make
a right onto ul. Kupa (literally Poop Street in English, at
least thats the PG version) to visit the Isaac Synagogue
(ul. Kupa 18, E-6, p.97), whose restored interiors now house
a permanent exhibition titled In Memory of Polish Jews
and a small shop selling kosher food. In 1939 a member of
the synagogue committee was executed inside these halls
after refusing to set fire to it.
At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D-6) is the 17th
century Kupa Synagogue (p.98), whose northern wall was
flush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive walls which
can still be seen from the other side on ul. Miodowa. Its a
short walk down ul. Warszauera from there to Plac Nowy,
(D-6, p.98), formerly known as Plac ydowski (Jewish
Square) and still today the districts bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your tour
head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to
find what many regard as Krakws most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes
from Spielbergs Schindlers List. Along the way youll pass
the Judaica Foundation (p.99) at ul. Meiselsa 17 and
arguably Krakws best beer garden (Mleczarnia, p.69) if
youre here during the warm season.
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put
aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa
24, D-6, p.99, Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18,
E-6, p.97) and New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55,
E-6, p.98) all of which are nearby and essential points of
interest. Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish, however, with
several noteworthy Catholic churches moored in the district.
The most noteworthy is Skaka (ul. Skaeczna, C-7, p.96),
where Bishop Stanisaw of Szczepanw, was murdered and
then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold; a
blood-splattered stump can allegedly be seen beside the
altar. Stanisaw went on in death to become the patron
saint of Poland, and Skaka is also the final resting place
of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
Kazimierz is also home to some of Krakws most popular
museums; both the Museum of Municipal Engineering
(ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum
(Plac Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking the kids
and keeping them entertained (p.97).
TOURIST INFORMATION
INFOKRAKW KAZIMIERZ
Information on what to see and whats going on in
Kazimierz.QD6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 354 27 28,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
95
Kazimierz
PLAC WOLNICA
Ethnographic Museum
Visiting today, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica

was once equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek
Gwny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz
(Rynek Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment
in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only
5m shorter on each side than Rynek Gwny) making
it the second largest market square in Poland, if not
Europe. It was here that all the administrative and
judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as
well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything
from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the
bustling marketplace it once was, todays Plac Wolnica
covers only a small fragment of the squares original
size. Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very
centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after
Kazimierzs incorporation into Krakw in 1802, the
Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities
who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance
style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on
the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to
Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town
Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum.
Perhaps ironically given its former status, urban
revitalisation was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than the
once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around
Plac Nowy, but the square has caught up. Hosting an
increasing number of cultural events, and with cafes
and restaurants having sprouted up all around its edges
- as well as down ul. Mostowa, which leads straight from
Plac Wolnica to the pedestrian bridge connecting it to
Rynek Podgrski - this historic square has re-earned a
rightful place on any tour of the district.QD7.
Inside the Ethnographic Museum
CHURCHES
CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up
two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the citys
largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit
features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even) being
held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are few
things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has
to be the towering golden altarpiece. According to legend, a
robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests
in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground
and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in
recognition of the miracle.QD/E6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26,
www.bozecialo.net. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00.
No visiting during mass please.
SKAKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY

This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most
important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the
Bishop of Krakw, Saint Stanisaw of Szczepanw, was
beheaded on the order of King Bolesaw II; soon after, the
king was exiled and the royal family fell under a curse. To
appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family rebuilt
this church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel
to atone for the murder - a tradition which continues to this
day each May 8th. Since 1472 a monastic order of Pauline
Fathers has resided at Skaka, and in the 18th century the
church received a Baroque refurb, which endures to this
day. Stanisaw was canonised in 1253, becoming the patron
saint not only of Krakw, but of Poland. Inside an altar marks
the place where he was killed and includes the wood stump
upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool
where his remains were thrown still stands outside the
church, elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of
the saint, and its waters are said to have healing properties.
In 2008, the Three Millennia Altar was built in the courtyard
of the church, which features four-metre monuments of
St. Stanisaw, St. John Paul II, St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St.
Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. The
crypt at Skaka is also a national pantheon for distinguished
Poles, and includes the remains of writer Czesaw Miosz,
painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski,
among others.QC7, ul. Skaeczna 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 72
44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00
- 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Kazimierz
JEWISH SIGHTSEEING
GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM
With the name referring to the ethnically diverse
northernmost province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire,
which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Krakw
to Ternopil, this popular museum keeps the memory of
Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive via
hundreds of photographs documenting former Jewish sites
in Galicia today. The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict
synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober
viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz
tour. The converted warehouse also houses small temporary
exhibits, a large bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish
interest, a cafe, information point, and a garden next door for
events.QE6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www.
galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
15/10z, family ticket 30z, children under 7 free. Guided
tours (available in English and French) for groups of over
10: 13.50/8z per person; individual guided tours: 60z/3045mins, 100z/60mins. YU
HIGH SYNAGOGUE
The third oldest synagogue in Krakw, the High Synagogue
was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its
prayer room upstairs; its widely theorised that this was
a safety precaution to protect the congregation from
unfriendly neighbours. The design didnt save it from being
the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no
furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained
some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two
golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and
some of the murals have been restored. The size of the
high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do
remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its
destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the
prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary
museum exhibit. On the ground floor is a large bookstore
with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.
QE6, ul. Jzefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 9/6z, children
under 10 free.
ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from
a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around
the back youll find Szalom Falafel - Krakws only kosher fast
food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21, open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00
- 14:00, closed Sat). Klezmer concerts take place here Thu
& Sun at 18:00 (60/40z).QE6, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12
430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open 08:30 - 18:00,
Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
MUSEUMS
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierzs former Town
Hall, this often overlooked museum offers wonderful
and charming insight into Polish folk culture and
rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of
19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes and
instruments, and extraordinary examples of local
nativity cribs (szopki). A new exhibit called Od-nowa
(Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland
(painted Easter eggs and palms), while Unattainable
Earth guides visitors through hundreds of works of
folk art via the words of Czesaw Miosz (taken from
his poem of the same name). With exhibits sufficiently
explained in English, those that visit here will be
happily rewarded. A separate gallery for changing
exhibits can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska
46.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23,
www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 13/7z, Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. YU
MUSEUM OF MUNICIPAL ENGINEERING
This charming museum inside an old tram depot
actually features five separate permanent exhibitions,
plus temporary exhibits. The first two permanent
exhibits deal with the history of public transport
in Krakw and the development of the Polish
automotive industry through a hangar full of old
tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique
wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of
printing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries, the
fourth is a look at engineering feats in the city, while
Around the Circle teaches kids fundamental scientific
principles via 30 hands-on play stations. More fun
than it sounds and recommended for families, the
science exhibit will hold kids interest long enough for
Dad to look at cars, while Mom dreams of escaping
on that motorbike.QE7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel.
(+48) 12 421 12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 10:00
29z. YU
Courtesy of Museum of Municipal Engineering
97
Kazimierz
PLAC NOWY
While Krakws main square, Rynek Gwny, makes all the

postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz
that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Krakw
subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac
Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore a collection
of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled
with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons
flapping about. If you want something completely
different from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didnt really begin
assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its
central landmark, the Okrglak (rotunda), added as late
as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by
locals as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it
the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the
rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right
up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy
the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry
locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food
hatches to enjoy the best zapiekankiin Poland. Essentially
a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice,
visiting Krakw without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka
would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness.
Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and youll find
something happening here daily from 7:00 in the
morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but
weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays,
Sundays clothing market, and Friday mornings
bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo
essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and
07:30 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle,
How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Krakws premier pub crawl circuit (see page
64). Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer
and Alchemia put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map,
and remain two of the squares best bets for candlelit,
pre-war mystique, while down the road (ul. Meiselsa)
dark and arty Mleczarnia boasts the citys best beer
garden. In recent years the bars on offer have begun
to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this
bohemian outpost is Krakws most interesting and
exciting nightlife destination.QD6.
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded in
1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat hakahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which were
told explains where the name Kupa comes from, but doesnt
change the fact that it translates to poop in Polish (oh well).
Designed in the Baroque style with a square prayer room,
the synagogue shared a wall with the original Kazimierz
city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul. Miodowa.
Undergoing several renovations and expansions over the
centuries, the synagogue was connected to the adjacent
building in the 19th century and meticulously restored in
2000. The richly decorated interior features paintings of
Biblical scenes and holy places done by an unknown artist
in the 1920s.QD/E6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from
Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.
jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sat. Note that opening hours could not be confirmed and
may be subject to change. Admission 5/3z.
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was
the burial ground for many of Krakws distinguished Jews
in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a
darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population
between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are
actually no more than memorials to entire families that were
killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters.
The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the
walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newlylit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably
evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head
upon entry.QE5, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Fri
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Note that opening hours could
not be confirmed and may be subject to change.
OLD SYNAGOGUE
Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the
oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in
Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase
the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the readers part and are therefore a perfect primer on the
subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah
enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are
also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells
a fine selection of works related to Jewish Krakw in a number
of languages.QE6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62,
www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00.
From November open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY
Dating from 1553, this is Krakws smallest but most active
synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place
here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration
works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous
16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as the
Kazimierz
Rema, based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the
proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use
until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during
Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII
in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses
Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous
power. After the war the cemetery was tidied up with many
of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows,
and fragments of those which could not be restored used to
create a wailing wall along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery
and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features
a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an
important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the
world.QE6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Open
10:00 - 18:00; Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Note that
opening hours could not be confirmed and may be subject
to change. Admission 10/5z.
TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE
Kazimierzs newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several
later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under
Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and
stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held
here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since
restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many
concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during
the annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Fri 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat. Note that opening hours could not be confirmed
and may be subject to change. Admission 10/5z.
USEFUL CONTACTS
JEWISH COMMUNITY
The Jewish Community of Krakw is over 700 years old and
currently has around 140 members tasked with maintaining
Krakws Jewish culture, religious sites, and organising
community events and gatherings. Shabbat services now
take place every Friday in the Remuh Synagogue (ul.
Szeroka 40, E-6).QD6, ul. Miodowa 27, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun, Note that opening hours could not be
confirmed and may be subject to change.
JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE
The headquarters of Krakws strengthening Jewish
community. JCC organises numerous events (check their
website or FB for details), exhibits and tours. Walk-ins are
always welcome, but if you want to participate in a Shabbat
dinner you need to contact them a few days in advance.
QD6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www.
jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
JUDAICA FOUNDATION
This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits
reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe.
QD6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.
judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
99
Podgrze
Podgrzes crown jewel: St. Josephs Church.
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his awardwinning film Schindlers List, the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didnt reach across
the river to Podgrze, despite the fact most of the films
historic events took place there, as did much of the
filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated with
tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgrze would
emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian district; however
aside from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow
to develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path
in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to Podgrze.
Since the opening of Schindlers Factory (p.102) as a
major attraction and the construction of the Bernatek
footbridge (E-7) creating a direct artery of tourist traffic
into the district, that has begun to change, but Podgrze
remains Krakws most mysterious and underappreciated
neighbourhood.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in

Kazimierz were marched across the Silesian Uprisings Bridge
(J-4) and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto (p.104). Traces of the Ghetto still exist,
including a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska
(p.105). Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the
Ghettos residents were murdered there, while others met death
in the nearby Liban quarry and Paszw concentration
camp, or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and Beec.
The opening of the Schindlers Factory Museum in 2010 not
only did much towards helping the city bury the ghosts of the
Holocaust, but it also established Podgrze as a bona fide tourist
destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend
an entire day exploring Podgrze, and a walk up into the hills
of Krzemionki behind old Podgrze is not only a great way to
get off the beaten path - its also Krakws most evocative area.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual

attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date
from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish
invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgrze
levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the
Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually
incorporated as Krakws fourth district in 1915, and
the following decades saw its aggressive development;
quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string
of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (p.103) is
the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (p.102), excavations of which have dated
it to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent
history are what people most associate with the district.
ST. JOSEPHS CHURCH

Presiding over the heart of historic Podgrze on the south
side of the districts main square, this unmissable neo-gothic
juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of
Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower,
elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of
saints, St. Josephs slender, yet imposing brick facade rates
among the most beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously
illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors
should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on
a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of
the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QJ5, ul.
Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.
pl. Open 08:30 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
CHURCHES
Podgrze
MUSEUMS
CRICOTEKA
Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist,
theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th
theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre
productions. In 1980 he created Cricoteka as a living
archive to document the achievements of himself and his
theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened its new
headquarters here on the site of the former Podgrze power
station, with the aim of better presenting his work and its
impact on modern art and theatre. The building itself is an
apparent homage to his experimental approach, literally
hovering above the existing buildings with a bizarre facade
of rusted metal and black mirror. Combined with the original
buildings, the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition
space, archive, theatre hall and bookshop; as a result, a
large amount of its programme involves happenings,
performances, workshops and other live events (check their
website for those). As a museum, its difficult to recommend
to those who arent already familiar with Kantor, or fans
of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary exhibits
show art apparently inspired by Kantors ideas, while
the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of Kantors
increasingly eccentric career via stage props he created
(including lots of creepy mannequins) and video footage.
Free tablets with English-language info are available for
visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it all resonates is purely
a matter of personal taste, as public opinion is notably
divided.QJ4, ul. Nadwilaska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70,
www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 15z. Y
LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE
Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been
a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the
PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under
the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also
glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During
the 1970s Cracovian glass achieved international renown
for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture,
and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research
and production. The idea of an educational museum
showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has
actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now
made those collections open to the public. The permanent
exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools
and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive
Cracovian Glass Art Collection of contemporary coloured
glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live
demonstrations of glass hand-moulded in a blast furnace
occur regularly throughout the day until one hour before
closing. The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery
for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QK4,
ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Note,
however, that opening hours may be subject to change.
Permanent exhibit and live demonstrations 14/12z,
exhibit only 8/6z.
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Photo by Rafa Sosin
Opened in 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art

(MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own
with comparable international art institutions. Tucked
behind Schindlers Factory, the building alone will impress
with its ultra-modern styling and layout. The museum
boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern
art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus
a new permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhols
cult NYC studio known as The Factory. There are also
always provocative temporary exhibitions, a large cafe and
bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make
sure you have plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has
to offer.QK4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.
mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance
1hr before closing. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Guided
tours (100z) in English, Italian, French and Chinese
available if arranged by phone in advance. YU
PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE
When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgrze
in 1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its
Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at
the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his
staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the
ghetto and over the two years of the ghettos existence,
Apteka Pod Orem became an important centre of social
life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsified
documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz
(recognised today as Righteous Among the Nations) and
his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations
while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows
of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants
were ultimately liquidated. Recreated to look as it did
101
Podgrze
KRAKUS MOUND
The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus Mound (Kopiec

Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds
in the city and is also its highest point, providing
incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The
site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains
an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the
surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green
rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry and the
Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the city,
Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws least
explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour
from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily
from the Powstacw Wielkopolskich tram stop via ul.
Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or by
following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to the pedestrian
bridge over al. Powstacw Wielkopolskich to the base
of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative
engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source
of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend
of Krakws mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the
mound is said to have been constructed in honour of
his death when noblemen and peasants filled their
sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in
order to create an artificial mountain that would rule
over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period,
extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to
try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed
buried beneath it. Though much about the ingenuity
of the mounds prehistoric engineers was revealed,
no trace of a grave was found; a bronze belt from
the 8th century was unearthed and there is general
agreement today that the mound was created by a
Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of
the 7th century and the early 10th century, though
other hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four
smaller mounds surrounded the base of Kraks mound,
however these were levelled in the mid-19th century
during the construction of the citys first fortress which
surrounded the area with a wall embankment and
a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Kraks
mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds
for Kociuszko and Pisudski and today it remains one
of Polands greatest archaeological mysteries.QK5,
above ul. Maryewskiego.
during Nazi occupation, this museum heartrendingly

describes life in the Krakw Ghetto through traditional
and multimedia displays, and extensive testimonials from
both Poles and Jews. Information is displayed inside the
chests and cupboards of the pharmacy, and visitors are
encouraged to handle dozens of replica artefacts and
reprinted photographs, heightening the reality of the
events described and creating a very intimate visiting
experience. Though comprising only 5 rooms, set aside at
least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QJ4, Pl.
Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.mhk.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00; closed 2nd
Tue of each month. Last entrance 30mins before closing.
Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
SCHINDLERS FACTORY
In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to
give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class
museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is
one which has been well-known since Steven Spielbergs film
Schindlers List (which was shot almost entirely in Krakw)
brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while
that story is covered in detail on the original site where
many events took place, the museum actually casts the
city of Krakw in the main role of its permanent exhibition
titled, Krakw During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Individual
histories of Krakws wartime inhabitants guide visitors
through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life
under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the citys underground
resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos,
radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic
multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly,
while a separate section of the original factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit,
Schindlers Factory is one of the most fascinating museums
in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least
two hours if you want to see everything. To get there take a
tram to Pl. Bohaterw Getta (J-4) and its a 5-10 minute walk
down ul. Kcik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa
and youre there.QK4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10
17, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00;
first Mon of each month 10:00 - 14:00. From November
open 10:00 - 18:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5
hours before closing. Admission 21/16z, family ticket 50z.
Groups of over 15 people 18z (without guide)/20z (with
guide) and must book in advance. Mon free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
fotopolska.eu
Podgrze
PLACES OF INTEREST
FORT BENEDICT
The only surviving fortress of three that were built in
Podgrze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula
River and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict is one of
only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type left
anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery
tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area
of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on
Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts
church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the
1890s and has since been used as Austrian military
barracks and was even converted into apartments in
the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandoned furniture and building materials.
After numerous projects involving the fort failed
to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Krakw, with plans for
its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding
to the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most
surprising and strange corners.QK5, Lasota Hill.
PLAC BOHATERW GETTA
First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across
the river from the Powstacw lskich bridge has had
a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Krakw Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghettos largest open space, Plac Zgody was
a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the
oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also
the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations
to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of
the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody
was changed to Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square) and a small monument was erected, the spaces
historical significance never felt more pertinent than its
post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after
decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterw Getta was renovated
in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the
design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic
place in Podgrze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced
metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as
subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially
been turned into an evocative memorial to the victims
of the Krakw Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection
was also added within the small, former bus terminal
building at the north end of the square, however it still
goes sadly ignored (see if you can do something about
that).QJ4.
LIBAN QUARRY
One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Krakw,

the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of
remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp
that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers
adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities
for exploration, photography, and personal reflection.
Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local
waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other
creatures, the quarrys towering limestone cliffs, ponds
and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the
rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones
and tangles of barbed wire that can still be found
amongst the brush here.
The Jewish limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis
established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of
the 19th century a complex of buildings had been
established inside and a railway line had been laid. During
Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up
as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to
perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small,
discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates
executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside
the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in
the Paszw concentration camp. During filming 34
barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the
quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently
removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with
the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as
you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by
assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgrze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry,
city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the
quarrys entrance have been known to deny entry or
ask people to leave.QJ/K5, ul. Za Torem.
103
Jewish Ghetto
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre

of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an
important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews one quarter of the citys total population - who enjoyed the
citys relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish
community began almost immediately following German
occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an
increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights
and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were
arriving in Krakw from the rest of PL in the hope of finding
safety amidst the citys dense community. In October 1939,
the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result of
resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population was
reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the
economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
ESTABLISHMENT
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish
Housing District on the right bank of the Wisa River in
the district of Podgrze. What would become known as
the Krakw or Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an
approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320
mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgrzes historic
centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the
north and south, and between the Krakw-Paszw rail
line and Podgrzes market square to the east and west. In
the 17 days between the ghettos establishment and the
March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000
original residents of the district were relocated across the
river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property
and possessions were confiscated with the exception
of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of
unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking
protection, bringing the total population of the Krakw
Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one
apartment allocated for every four families and an average
of two square metres of living space per person. Windows
facing Aryan Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to

prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre
high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto,
crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble
Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed
the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgrski on
ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul.
Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rkawka and
ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of
ul. Lwowska and ul. Jzefiska (K-4), and another at Plac
Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterw Getta, J-4, p.103).
A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made
no stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently
found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Pharmacy Under the
Eagle (p.101) on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked
outside the ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial
district, which included Oskar Schindlers enamelware
factory at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4, p.102).
DEPORTATIONS
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move
to the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what
else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to
their families in the Krakw Ghetto.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942,
the Nazis began to initiate The Final Solution - Hitlers
systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.
May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the
Krakw Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all
documents were inspected. Those who couldnt produce
proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody
before being transferred to Paszw rail station, loaded
into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Beec death
camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the
Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days. One
June 6th all previous documents were declared invalid
and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new
Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise
met their deaths in Beec, including popular poet and
songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews
had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot
in the streets. [The June deportations were one of the best
documented of such actions, however photos from the
events are still commonly misidentified as being taken
during the ghettos liquidation in March 1943.] Two weeks
later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half
Jewish Ghetto
to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated
by barbed wire. The increased density of the population
and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of
suicides. Though some remained optimistic, worse was to
come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Paszw
labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of
the Krakw ghetto.
In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews (many
originating from Krakw) were also sent to Beec as the
ghettos in nearby Somniki and Wieliczka were liquidated.
Following these brutal events, the correlation between
deportation and death became fully understood perhaps
for the first time in Krakw. In October the Germans
announced that the Krakw ghetto would be consolidated
again and selections began anew, with no regard toward
employment status, age or health. Another 4,500 victims
were sent to their deaths in Beec, while some 600 were
shot inside the ghetto. With the liquidation of the ghetto
hospital, orphanage and elderly home, many orphans and
invalids were sent to the newly established Paszw labour
camp, only to be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area
east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a
month later the remaining territory was divided into two
sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most
able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable
and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began
commuting daily to work on the construction of Paszw
labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Krakw
as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camps
development hastened the ghettos demise.
LIQUIDATION
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the
Krakw Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000
Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were
immediately transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto
B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on
Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay
in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was
liquidated, refusing to abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it
- was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape
were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets
(some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving
almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
TRACES OF THE GHETTO

Though it existed for only two years, history has a
long memory and some evidence of the ghetto still
remains. The outline of the former ghetto can be
seen on our map on page 140. As you walk around
the area keep your eyes peeled for informational ghetto
memorial plaques on many of the buildings.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this
prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall,
which reads in Hebrew and Polish: Here they lived,
suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers.
From here they began their final journey to the death
camps.QK4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT

An even longer and arguably more evocative section of
the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground
behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego
60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of
the area should climb the steep trail leading from the
back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgrze
Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned
Fort Benedict.QK5, ul. Limanowskiego 62.
STARMACH GALLERY
Built between 1879-1881, this was one of four prayer
houses within the ghetto, the others being located
at numbers 6 and 7 on the same street and nearby
at ul. Krakusa 7. Religious practise was outlawed by
the Germans during the war (though it continued
in secret) and the synagogue was converted into
a warehouse and then a factory. When the ghetto
was established, many valuable religious artefacts
from Kazimierz synagogues were transferred here for
protection, however the eventual liquidation of the
ghetto guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After
the war the building stood derelict until Andrzej and
Teresa Starmach rescued it in 1996, turning it into one
of the largest and most renowned private art galleries
in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a visit
is recommended.QJ4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
105
Nowa Huta
If youre after authenticity, the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (p.108) is very much of the era.
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the

huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct
antithesis of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and
tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta
is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities
ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural
Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate
social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a
huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village
of Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in
an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent
to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision to
build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over
the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000
people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to impress,
Nowa Huta featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes
and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the
time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Hutas architects strove to
construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from
the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that
despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key,
and the suburb was designed with efficient mutual control
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and
the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast,
while the layout was such that the city could easily be
turned into a fortress if it came under attack.
Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949,
and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking
from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of
personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man,

Piotr Oaski, publicly credited with laying an stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was
tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first
winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the
foundations, and crime was rampant.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses
Avenue.
Nowa Huta
WHAT TO SEE
MEMORIES OF LENIN
Jump off a tram at the Plac Centralny stop, and find

yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to
1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered
over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac
Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism in
Poland was an important act of symbolism (cheered by
thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost
comic irony when the square he once stood on - and
which was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was
officially re-designated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004.
Speak to any local, however, and youll still hear it referred
to as Plac Centralny. A walk around Plac Centralnys
fearsome social realist arcades brings you to several minor
points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign,
and Cepelix folk art shop (p.109). Also within easy walking
distance is the former witowid cinema, another social
realist stalwart that today houses the Museum of Poland
Under the Communist Regime (p.108). Make it one of
your first stops before wandering back to Plac Centralny
and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta District
Museum (p.108).
While Krakws royal associations are common

knowledge, few know that Comrade Lenin quietly
called the city home from 1912-1914 before he was
arrested as an enemy of the state and imprisoned
in Nowy Targ. Released days later he returned to
Krakw to pack his bags and fled to Switzerland, only
to become one of the most famous names in world
history a few years later.
Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the

focal point for visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1,
T-2) that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named
after. Employing some 40,000 people in its heyday the
Lenin Steelworks were capable of producing seven
million tonnes of steel annually, and boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Like Plac Centralny, the steel
mill entrance has been given the full socialist treatment,
flanked by two concrete monstrosities built to echo the
fine old buildings of Poland. If you take the trouble to
approach the gates, enjoy the view because youll go no
further; the steelworks are sadly off limits to tourists at the
moment.
Nowa Huta was meant to be a showcase socialist city, but
it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity and
played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the early 1980s,
which were preceded locally by the struggle for permission
to build the Nowa Hutas first church; though it took 28
years, The Lords Ark (p.108) was finally consecrated
in 1977. While much of NH is the product of the last half
century, a true tour of the area reveals treasures of much
older historical value. The most epitomising example of
a pre-steel age in the area is Wandas Mound (p.109), a
mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas
settlement goes all the way back to pre-Christian times,
and actually predates that of Krakws Old Town.
GETTING TO NOWA HUTA

Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop, D-2) goes straight to Plac Centralny (O-4)
in about 20mins.
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible that during

his two years in Krakw Lenin may have visited the
area upon which Nowa Huta would later be built. He
made a high-profile postmortem return in 1954 when
the Steelworks were named after him, and in 1970
Marian Konieczny won a controversial commission
to build a monumental statue of him on Aleja R
(Roses Avenue); strangely, the artist was at that
time living in Lenins former flat. Konieczny spent
three years creating a stunning seven tonne statue
of Lenin striding purposefully forward down Nowa
Hutas main thoroughfare with his raincoat open and
brow furrowed. The people of Nowa Huta, however,
were unimpressed, and the statue soon became the
focus of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old
bicycle, battered pair of boots and a handwritten note
were left below the statue which read, Take these old
boots, get on the bike and get the hell out of Nowa
Huta. In 1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though
the only casualty proved to be a local man who died
of shock after being awoken by the blast. During
Martial Law (Dec. 1981 - July 1983) more attempts to
destroy Lenins statue were thwarted, and it doggedly
survived an effort to pull it down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was
lifted by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a
disused fort until a Swedish philanthropist bought
the monument for 100,000 Swedish crowns, and
had it shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm. In
2014, as part of the ArtBoom festival, a mock-up of
the striding Lenin monument was again temporarily
erected on Roses Avenue, with a few key differences:
this one was a miniature neon yellow fountain of
Lenin urinating.
107
Nowa Huta
THE LORDS ARK
Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house

of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was
pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers
with no assistance from the communist authorities.
The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant
to stand for, The Lords Ark (Arka Pana) is a remarkable
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in
Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the
locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two
million stones needed for the churchs facade. The
first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol
Wojtya, who would later assume fame as Pope John
Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump
delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and shells had to
be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th 1977, the
church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs Ark,
with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the
middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures,
including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the
Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile
brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo
11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows him
not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If you
think thats odd, check out the statue dedicated to
Our Lady the Armoured a half metre sculpture made
from ten kilogrammes of shrapnel removed from Polish
soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte Cassino. In the
early 1980s, the church became a focal point during
anti-communist protests, not least for the shelter it
afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during
the period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as
proven by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik
opposite the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by
security services, and later died of his injuries. His death
outraged the people, and his funeral was attended by
20,000 mourners. The monument commemorating the
site of his death was erected in 1992 and is a tribute to
all those who died during this period. In 2012 Krakw
City Council awarded Arka Pana the Cracoviae Merenti
silver medallion for its significance to the citys history.
QN1, ul. Obrocw Krzya 1, www.arkapana.pl.
Open 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:00, Sun 15:00 16:00. No visiting during mass please.
MUSEUMS
MUSEUM OF POLAND
UNDER THE COMMUNIST REGIME
In development for years, this museum inside the former
Kino wiatowid - a local landmark in social realist architecture,
completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish history between
the years 1944 and 1989, telling the story of everyday life
during the countrys communist era. Though the building is
awaiting further renovations, temporary exhibits occupy the
ground floor and you can descend into the former cinemas
cellars for the intriguing Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa
Huta exhibit. There are actually some 250 shelters beneath
NH - enough to accommodate every resident in the district and this is the largest in Krakw. Well-translated throughout,
including an instructive film with English subtitles, here youll
learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland
had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the
Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an
event. If youre from the West, its akin to mild culture shock,
and the space itself is impressively vast. Within easy walking
distance from Plac Centralny, if youve made the trip out to
NH theres no reason not to make a stop here. Szpeje - a
small shop inside selling genuine antiques from the PRL era
- is an added bonus.QO4, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12
446 78 21, www.mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 9/7z; Tue free.
MUSEUM OF THE ARMED ACT
Essentially the Nowa Huta Military Museum, here youll
find several dusty exhibits dedicated to Nowa Huta natives
who fought and died for their nation. In Polish only, though
theres an English language brochure, most of the displays
might not mean much to those lacking a healthy interest
in the detritus and paraphernalia of war, but its well
worth popping in (its free after all) if only for a look at the
intriguing and grotesque models of life under the Nazis
during WWII. Youll know youve found it when you see the
imposing Soviet tank out front.QO1, os. Grali 23, tel.
(+48) 696 72 91 25, www.mczz.3-2-1.pl. Open 10:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
NOWA HUTA MUSEUM
This small museum features sweet neon signage and a
series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture
of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the area, here
you can also pick up plenty of information about NH, and
they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.QO2,
os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75,
www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00; closed Mon. From
November open 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00; closed
Mon, Sun Nov 6th, Sun Nov 20th. Admission 6/4z,
family ticket 12z, Wed free. YUN

City Essentials App
Nowa Huta
PLACES OF INTEREST
WANDAS MOUND
Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Wandas
Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable evidence that the
history of the area goes back much further. In fact, the village
of Mogia, which Wandas Mound is near the historical centre
of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC without interruption,
while archaeologists date the settlement of Krakws Old
Town much later in the 8th century. Together with Krakus
Mound in Podgrze (K-5) - Krakws other prehistoric
earthwork - Wandas Mound plays a role in one of Polands
greatest archaeological mysteries as the mounds date of
construction, builders and function all remain a subject
of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both
mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and 10th
centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds
or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that they were
created as burial mounds which later became cult sites.
Though seemingly random within the layout of modern
Krakw, the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen
as an accident; when standing atop Wandas Mound on the
evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting
in a direct line behind Krakus Mound.
Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station
Kopiec Wandy - tram 16 takes you there, but you must
request the stop), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork
rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a
small monument from the 19th century by Jan Matejko
who lived in the Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim
of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wandas
Mound today lies just outside the fence of the fearsomely
enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which unglamorous
glimpses can be seen through the trees. The view to the
southwest is an improvement, where Krakus Mound and
Podgrze can be seen in the distance, though Wandas
Mound unfortunately doesnt offer sweeping views of
the same calibre as Krakws other mounds. The parkland
surrounding the mound is in need of development, not
to mention some proper modern archaeological studies;
behind the mound is a footpath leading to the right
towards one of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian
fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps.QT4,
Near intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
TOURS
CRAZY GUIDES
Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta:
experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one of the worlds
only centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc
Trabant 601 automobile. Considering the large size and
somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around
the district on your own, this may be the best way to
get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.Qtel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Communism
Tour 139z per person.
PLAC CENTRALNY
The centre of Nowa Hutas architectural layout,

Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the districts
primary landmark and one of social realisms highest
architectural achievements, despite never being
completed. The two main structures of the square
were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini
PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at
the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though
the designs were in place, none saw development.
Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja
R (Roses Avenue, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine
example of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings
lining the way, youll find several curiosities. First and
foremost, dont miss the gorgeously restored Markiza
neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana
Pawa II (O-4). Though the cake shop it advertised is
long gone, the sign stanmds out as the areas most
nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the
most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00,
closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design,
this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to
the original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal
chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with colourful handpainted ceramic plates. The character of this place
hasnt changed a bit and as such its a great place to
buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesawiec pottery,
and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across the street is a
typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era
worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you
think that cant be topped, only a few doors down
behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous
Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in
NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive
restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same
spirit as the day it opened with an interior that hasnt
changed in well over 30 years.QO4.
109
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy
your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the
outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your
language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine:
the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and
the Underground Museum which takes an additional
hour to visit. In between theres an opportunity to take a
break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat
(or escape if thats your preference). However, be aware
that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many
tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they
are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground
Museum (which you have already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular

tourist cities in Central Europe, and as youve likely heard,
one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually
located in Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to
the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit
Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (thats one out of every
seven or eight visitors to Krakw), and its hardly a recent
phenomenonpeople have been visiting the salt mine
for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus
Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and
former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official
tourist trail opened underground here way back in the
mid-19th century. But its not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in
a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as
their number one favourite thing about Krakw; again,
not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres
away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it
has the distinction of having been included (along with
Krakws Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCOs
first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know,
back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique
industrial heritage site has been a popular destination
for centuries and if youre visiting Krakw, you should
also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which
in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health
resort, castle and museum.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden

stairs (dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the
first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with
the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including both
parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm.
While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels youll
gain insight from your guide into the history of the site,
the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the
men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive
blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila).
The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in
which almost everything around you is made from rock
salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and
stringy stalactites that hang down. The highlight of the
tour is the magnificent 22,000m St. Kingas Chapel dating
from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics,
the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New
Testament done by miners that display an astonishing
amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that
holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high
enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at
GETTING TO WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east
out of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city
limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15
minutes. Alternatively, a new train service direct from
Krakws main train station to within walking distance
of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever
for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins, the journey time
is only about 20mins, and tickets are 3.00z each way.
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA HISTORY
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding
area lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea.
Unfortunately the beaches are gone, but left behind
were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of
metres underground by tectonic movements. Though
cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an
extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to
its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient
sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there
was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their
duties were said to be worth their salt and the word
salary comes from the Latin word salarium used to
describe their salty wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface
pools in the regions surrounding Krakw can be
traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC),
but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in
the 13th century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon
both cities had earned municipal rights and by
the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks
was established to manage both mines, with its
headquarters in the Wieliczka Castle complex.
One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of
Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the
16th and 17th centuries when it employed some
2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes
and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production
was further increased by mechanising the mining
works with steam and later electric machinery, and
the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century
however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary
protection works had begun to destabilise the mines
condition and the market value of salt no longer made
it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock
salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite
the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins,
explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26
access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual
levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers
had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels
reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground.
Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative
engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist
purposes.
the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which

point you should be instructed on your two options: how
to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second
part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned
or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the
Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past

the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the
queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that
shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate
area to the right for those that want to continue on to
the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily
recommend). Your original guide should admit you into
the museum exhibition which comprises an additional
16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts
and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate
on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of
the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful
exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century
Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling
salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back
to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to
where you started.Qul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel.
(+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 07:30 19:30. From November open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission
84/64z; taking photos is an additional 10z. In addition to
the popular Tourist Route described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route, a
route for children, and the Miners Route (open 09:00 18:00; from November open 09:30 - 15:00) - an interactive
tour in which tourists are assigned a role by the foreman/
tour guide and experience the daily routines, rituals and
secrets of working underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Auschwitz
The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | noel moore, Dollar Photo Club
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater

community, largely bypassed by world events. That
changed with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz
under German occupation, became the chosen site of
the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1
million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here,
etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history
books and countless films, documentaries, books and
survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective
consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves
whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz.
It is a difficult question. There are few who would say
they actually want to visit Auschwitz, though many are
compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us
who dont feel so compelled, its easy to give reasons for not
going: not having enough time, already knowing as much
as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally
connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit,
or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site
of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds
of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all
of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly
reasonable until youve actually visited the site; youll be
hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and
still argues against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps
spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by
the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter
how much you think you know on the subject, the
perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether
or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to
decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz
is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German
concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site
of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should
visit.
VISITING AUSCHWITZ
If youve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have
three options: visit as part of a group organised by a Krakw
tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour
at the museum, or visit independently for free without a
guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now
makes the latter two options much more difficult than in
the past. All visits must now be booked in advance
through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you
may find there are no tickets available because they have all
been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of
tickets online doesnt mean you cant visit Auschwitz when
you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a
tour through an outside provider. This isnt necessarily a bad
thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how
to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying
a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is
worth it.
113
Auschwitz
GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways

to get to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of
Krakw-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate
significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart
for Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka
18, E-1); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance,
but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you
may end up at the Owicim bus station which is at
the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins
and costs 12z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between
Krakw and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr
45mins - 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 8.50z; note,
however, that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers
24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3z) from
the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle
visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15z.
Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31
50 77) can take you back to Krakw from either camp a group of eight would pay about 30-40z/person.
ALSO IN OWICIM
OWICIM JEWISH MUSEUM & SYNAGOGUE
If you have more time to spend in Owicim, head
to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving
in the centre of Owicim) for more information on
the towns Jewish heritage, including a permanent
exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II.
Located near Owicims market square 3km from the
Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored
programmes for those plan their visits in advance,
and theres a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the
warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6z, family ticket
15z, kids 6 and under free.
If you are determined to visit independently you need

to know that during peak season (April - October) the
museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become
part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before
10:00 (difficult to do from Krakw) or after 15:00 - during
which times it is possible to visit for free on your own.
Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official
guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional;
afterwards youll find it hard to imagine getting as much
out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own.
Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online),
but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also
regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish
and Spanish. The museum makes a big effort to provide
the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in
languages other than those just mentioned can be easily
arranged if done in advance through the website.
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can
be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds,
numerous ticket windows with different designations, and
excessive signage that contradicts itself. If you are visiting
independently, or in a small group, find the queue for the
desk marked Individual Guests. After purchasing your ticket
and headphones, your experience typically begins with a
harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by
the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp
in January 1945. The film (not recommended for children
under 14) is not guaranteed year-round however, in which
case your guided tour of the camp will begin straightaway
with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear
through your headphones. If exploring Auschwitz without a
guide it is highly recommended that you dont get there later
than 15:30, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5z)
whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of
the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous
bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare
accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz
I takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II;
in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch
that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day
(though there is some limited food available at the museum).
The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours.
Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk
or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz
I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar
and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz
II-Birkenau.Qul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Auschwitz I
open 08:00 - 18:30; from November open 08:00 - 16:30.
Last entrance 1,5h before closing. Auschwitz II - Birkenau
open 08:00 - 19:00; from November open 08:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 2h before closing. An individual ticket for a
foreign language guided tour of both camps costs 45/35z.
Tours for groups range from 300-450z depending on size.
The film costs 4/3z. Official guidebook 5z. Admission
without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free.
Auschwitz
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific
suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated
in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished.
The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber
and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of
burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp
commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
AUSCHWITZ I
Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a
replica of the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You
Free) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made
by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on
display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in
pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From
the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past
the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as
prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside
Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind
the worlds most notorious concentration camp is given,
with exhibits including original architectural sketches for
gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and
mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes
of human hair once destined for German factories, which
does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the
Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some
of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of
artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits
and, most affectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines
the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs,
artists drawings and tools used for hard labour while the
next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured
by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the
floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a
poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU
Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some
visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II
Birkenau, however its here that the impact of Auschwitz
can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude
of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained
300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered
175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on
January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews,
it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the
Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side
lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal
colony and also the womens camp. At the far end of the
camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well
as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably
brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander
and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to
Auschwitz I.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably

the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted their experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of
Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death
after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with
a small memorial, and tiny standing cells measuring 90 x
90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time remain intact.
115
Tarnw
Tarnw Old Town. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw lies the charming and

hospitable city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size,
Tarnw is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many
of the same cultural and architectural charms without the
crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of
herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist
market the size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers
tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and
the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In
addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which
includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and
Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors
will discover several unique and worthwhile museums,
wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a
scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical
monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in
Tarnws Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in
the citys small, but evocative Jewish district and large
Jewish Cemetery. While the towns nightlife may not have
the sizzle of Krakw, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and
restaurants where youll find it easy to meet friendly local
folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a
good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnw
also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other
nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dbno,
the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. Youll
find more information on Tarnw and all the surrounding
area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.
com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at
the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up
a copy of IYPs special Tarnw mini-guide.
EAT & DRINK

SOPRANO
This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are in the lush seasonal garden where you can watch the chef at work with the brick, woodfired pizza oven - but that shouldnt stop you from making
this your dinner destination in lousy weather as well. The
soups are delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while
our chicken with mango mousse was a worthy follow-up.
Probably the most money you can spend on a meal out in
Tarnw, and still a heck of a bargain.Qul. Mocickiego 6,
tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(20-48z). TUGSW
RDMIECIE PUB
Formerly the vaguely Art-Deco Pasa restaurant, the
owners have kept the curves and large circular booths of
the old design, filling in around them with trendy trappings
like exposed brickwork, colourful retro wallpaper, unique
light fixtures and random marquee signs. Theres now a
changing stable of Polish microbrews, an excellent menu of
cheap pub eats - including fish n chips, burgers and panini,
and teles for league matches, plus weekly promotions and
other events to keep things interesting. The whole package,
rdmiecie is the most exciting thing to open in Tarnw
in recent memory, and has basically set a new standard
for the competition going forward.QPl. Kazimierza Wlk.
2 (entrance from Pasa Tertila), tel. (+48) 14 627 82 78.
Open 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. GW
Tarnw
SIGHTSEEING
CATHEDRAL
Dating from the 14th century with major additions and
rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest
of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and
Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and
the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference
when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on
the southern side of the building, and a large monument
of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QPl. Katedralny,
tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.
pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00.
No visiting during mass please.
DIOCESAN MUSEUM
To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art
to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and
Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing
collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16thcentury houses, the museums most precious artefact
is the original altar from St. Leonards church in nearby
Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at
the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience.QPl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00; Sun
09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
TARNW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH
The new headquarters of the many branches of the
Tarnw District Museum, located in an historical building
right on the Rynek, this museum currently hosts rotating
temporary exhibits, and is the permanent home of
Tarnws collection of fragments of the Transylvania
Panorama - a lost masterpiece painted on an epic scale
depicting local hero Jzef Bems victory at the Battle of
Sibiu during the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. Displayed
in Lww, Budapest and then Warsaw, regrettably in 1928
the enormous panoramic canvas was cut into 100 pieces,
the majority of which have yet to be recovered. A pet
project of the Tarnw District Museum, the museum
currently possesses 17 out of the 38 fragments which have
been located.QRynek 3, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09;00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission
8/5z, family ticket 16z; Sun free for the permanent
exhibition (Transylvania Panorama). N
GETTING TO TARNW
Only 80km east of Krakw, Tarnw is most easily
reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new
A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from
Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with the
first leaving as early as 06:45 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:35; the journey takes between
1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnw is also served by some 30
or so trains every day from Krakw, with a journey time
of between 55 and 85 minutes depending on whether
you take a local or express train.
MARKETS
Located at the intersection of several trade routes,

Tarnw has been home to a large marketplace since
medieval times. In addition to the actual market square,
the city has had an open-air market just south of the
Rynek at the bottom of the Great Stairs for centuries.
Known locally as the Burek, this area actually extends
for several blocks and includes several small squares
and pavilions selling all manner of goods, from food
and flowers to clothing and cosmetics. Whatever it is,
whether its worth anything or not, you can get it at
the Burek - and a trip here is the quintessential Tarnw
shopping experience.
The name Burek officially refers to the fruit, produce,
meat and dairy market on Plac Bema, which was
recently modernised - dont miss the charming
Organ Grinder (pictured). Beyond it, however, youll
also find the large Hala Targowa (or Hala Miejska as
its also called) clothing market as well as some other
random merchants hawking their wares in the vicinity.
Have some change and small bills handy, as asking
the vendors to break a 100z note is unlikely to win
any smiles. Opening hours vary and some vendors
open and close as they please, but the general rule is
to get there early, as trade dries up by mid-afternoon.
117
Tarnw
TOURIST INFORMATION
One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this
your first port of call on arrival. Here (and on their
multi-lingual website) youll find a wide range of free
information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), bicycle rental, luggage
lockers, souvenirs, and theres even accommodation
available upstairs. If youre interested in a gadget-led
tour, theres the Tarnw Wooden Architecture App,
nine different audio tours, and a GPS guide. The friendly,
knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff
can give you whatever additional information or advice
you cant find here, so dont be shy.QRynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open 08:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Sun closed.
RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets

and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from
the 16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnws
hejna - a short traditional melody - is played every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a
good investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved
Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive
tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging
its northern edge and featuring several interesting
buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the
spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables
and chairs from the local businesses lining it, and has a
warm and welcoming appeal.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions, this
better than average collection
includes a large celebration of
Roma (Gypsy) culture, which
is allegedly the only such
collection in Europe. A truly
fascinating, if slightly dated,
exhibition tracing Roma
culture in Poland from its
beginnings in the 15th century
to their fate at the hands of
the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the
exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes
and photographs; with about 350 Roma living in the
Tarnw area, their culture is still very much alive locally. In
the museums back garden youll find several traditionally
painted gypsy caravans.Qul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14
622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00,
Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat.
Admission 8/5z, family ticket 16z; Sun free. N
THE JEWISH CEMETERY
A 10-minute walk north of the Old Town, this cemetery
was established in the early 1580s and is one of the oldest
and largest in Poland. With several thousand gravestones,
almost all of them untouched by the Nazis, the Jewish
Cemetery is a haunting albeit necessary part of any visit
to Tarnw. Seriously overgrown in places, some areas near
the main entrance can still be easily reached, and there are
even signs in English marking a few of the graveyards more
eminent souls. Near the entrance is a large memorial to the
Jews of Tarnw, built from one of the columns of the citys
destroyed New Synagogue. The cemeterys original gates
are now in Washingtons Holocaust Museum, and their
replacements are kept firmly locked, however it is possible
to borrow a key by leaving a 20z deposit at the Tourist
Information Centre at Rynek 7.QJunction of ul. Soneczna
and ul. Matki Boej Fatimskiej.
THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH
Between ul. ydowska (Jewish
Street) and Plac Rybny
(Fish Square) stood The Old
Synagogue, Tarnws primary
place of worship for 45%
of its population when war
broke out in 1939. The first
synagogue at this site dates
back to some time before 1582;
the frequent victim of fires, the
wooden structure was finally
rebuilt out of brick in 1670. On
November 8th, 1939, the Old Synagogue was destroyed
by the Nazis and later demolished; all that remains today
is the brick bimah - a four-pillared podium from which the
Torah was read. In 1987 a roof was placed over the bimah to
protect it, and the area around it has since been renovated
Tarnw
into an appealing public space which hosts the annual

Galicianer Shtetl - Jews of Galicia Remembrance Days.
Today the bimah is the most visible and perhaps the most
important monument to Tarnws Jewish heritage.QSkwer
Starej Synagogi.
TOWN HALL MUSEUM
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass,
porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive
collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in
the country. Sarmatism, if youre wondering, was a
beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that
predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th
century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief
that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of
ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the
centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a
full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback
riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish
Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The
Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead
of time, and offers panoramic views for a small extra fee.
QRynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.
tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Museum admission
8/5z, family ticket 16z, Sun free for permanent
exhibition; tower admission 10/5z; museum and
tower 15/8z. UN
STRZELECKI PARK
Located just north of the
city centre, Strzelecki is
Tarnws oldest public
park, established back
in 1866. An 8-hectare
English-style
garden
planted with many
unique trees, bushes and perennials, within the picturesque grounds youll find several interesting architectural
structures, including Paacyk Strzelecki - a 19th century
neo-Gothic shooting range building adopted to host the
BWA, Tarnws best art gallery. The parks other highlight
is General Bems unusual mausoleum, which rises out
of the middle of a pond at the parks north end. Atop six
tall Corinthian columns sits Bems sarcophagus, which has
held his ashes since 1929, and bears inscriptions in Polish,
Hungarian and Turkish. The pond below is home to swans
and ducks and full of water lilies, making this one of the
most photogenic places in Tarnw.Qul. Pisudskiego/ul.
Sowackiego. Open 05:30 - 21:00.
MUSEUM TICKETS
Note that all Tarnw museums are free on Sundays,
while on other days of the week a special sweetheart
ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and
Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10z.
119
Leisure
Savouring some autumn sun along the Wisa riverbanks beneath Wawel Castle.
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the

number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared
more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful day,
or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are
spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact that
the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun is out and
features several unique green spaces, particularly the Planty
(p.80) and Bonia (G-3). Krakws unique and mysterious
earthwork mounds also provide interesting outdoor
sightseeing opportunities near the city centre - check out
Krakus Mound in Podgrze (p.100) or Kociuszko Mound
in Salwator (p.86); or go deep into the woods of Las Wolski to
find Pisudski Mound, as well as the Zoo (p.122).
BIKE RENTAL
KRK BIKE RENTAL
This small bike rental just off the market square rents
standard bikes for 9z/hr, 50z/day; tandems and bikes with
child seats also available. Providing guided tours and advice
on where to ride in Krakw, as well as bike service.QB3, ul.
w. Anny 4, tel. (+48) 509 26 77 33, www.krkbikerental.
pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
TWO WHEELS (DWA KOA)
Excellent quality city and mountain bikes for rent: 3hrs/20z,
5hrs/30z, one day/40z. Deposit 100z. Prices are negotiable
if you wish to rent for longer than a day.QD6, ul. Jzefa
5, tel. (+48) 12 421 57 85, www.dwakola.internetdsl.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat 10:00 - 14:00; Sun closed.
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
AQUA FUN
Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec and
Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 25/20z; 1hr,
35/30z) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper
deck (1hr, 35/25z). Both gondola and boat rides run from
11:00 to 17:00 approximately every half hour, however
rides dont leave until a sufficient number of people are
on-board. All are speaker-equipped with an audio tour and
can be rented privately. Night cruises and private trips with
live folk or klezmer music can also be arranged in advance.
QB6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near Grunwaldzki
Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.statek-krakow.pl.
STER RIVER CRUISES
These three boats - the George, the Sobieski and the Piotru
Pan (Peter Pan) - pootle up and down the Wisa River
through the centre of Krakw, from their mooring near
Jubilat to Bielany (2.5hrs round trip, 50/35z) and Tyniec
(5hrs round trip, 75/60z).QA5, Bulwar Czerwieski, tel.
(+48) 601 56 02 50, www.ster.net.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Closed from November..
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Leisure
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in the basement of a modern building right on
Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Krakw. With
only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations
are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish
microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant
upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are
55, 75 or 95z depending on the day of the week and time
of day.QD6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www.
placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
THE STAGE
Krakws most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much
more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings this
laid-back hangout often hosts events including concerts,
cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack em
up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the
street-side windows. Conference and company events also
organised.QB1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63
85, www.thestage.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. Cost of a table
ranges between 15-23z/hr depending on the time of day.
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
KRAKOW PINBALL MUSEUM
Obscurely hidden in a courtyard cellar, this old school
pinball arcade features 50 beautiful pinball machines, plus
a scattering of other old school arcade games just for good
measure. Though a well-stocked bar makes their use of the
term museum seem a bit liberal, its clear that the aim here
is to create a family-friendly attraction for supple-wristed
nostalgics, rather than what could probably be one of
the most popular bars in the neighbourhood if it stayed
open later. All the machines in their interactive exhibit are
available for free unlimited play (no coins necessary!), but
there is a rather hefty admission price, only somewhat offset
by the fact that your ticket is good for re-entry all day. A
great game for all ages, and a wonderful blast to the past
(some of the machines are over 40 years old), specific pinball
machines in their collection include Terminator 2, Star Trek,
Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Jurassic Park and Dirty Harry.QC6,
ul. Stradomska 15, tel. (+48) 608 04 10 00. Open 12:00
100z, kids under 7 free when accompanied by an adult.
LASER PARK
Run amuck in the industrial wasteland around Schindlers
Factory known as Zabocie dodging laser beams and zapping
adversaries. Laser Arena uses a computer system to register
hits from the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight
within this highly unique setting. Prices are complex and as
follows: Mon-Thu 25/20z for 30mins, 40/35z for 60mins;
Fri-Sun 35z for 30mins, 55z for 60mins. Groups (10 players
minimum) Mon-Thu 400z, Fri-Sun 600z.QI4, ul. Zabocie
20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01 30, www.laserpark.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
Plac Wolnica 4, Krakw

787 788 777
floatarium@gmail.com
www. floatarium.pl
BUNGEE JUMPING
If you fancy a free fall (and subsequent recoil) while

youre in town, why not tie your feet together to an
elastic rope and dive off a crane next to a busy street?
Thats precisely what takes place just east of the Old
Town at Krakws Grzegrzecki sports fields - the highest
place in PL for bungee jumping, from a crane 90m
above the ground. The surroundings may not be the
worlds most scenic, but if youve ever thought of doing
this before, consider that bungee jumping in Berlin
costs about 100 Euro, in London about 80 GBP. Here a
single jump is only 130z, plus 30z for photos (you need
those); or 45z for photos and a GoPro video (why not?).
You dont need an appointment, just show up (sober)
during opening hours in decent weather (cancellations
due to wind or weather are announced on FB) and
prepare for the biggest adrenaline rush of your life. To
get there take trams 1, 10, 14, 52, 62 or 72, and get off
at Fabryczna.QK3, Al. Pokoju 16, tel. (+48) 732 60 66
52, www.skokibungee.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
121
Leisure
OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Covering almost 10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical
gardens date from 1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing
daytime escape from the city. Extensive flora-filled
paths wind between fountains, herb and rose gardens,
lily-padded ponds, and a 250-year-old oak tree - the
last remnant of primaeval forests which once covered
the entire region. A humid greenhouse (open 10:00
- 16:00; closed Fri) hides all manner of exotic flora,
including a macabre collection of carnivorous plants,
while a series of outdoor classical music concerts
takes place in the warmer months. A great place for a
romantic rendezvous or finding some peace and quiet.
QJ2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48) 12 663 36 35, www.
ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed from
November. Admission 8/5z, 15z family ticket. N
KRAKW ZOO
First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals
of almost 300 species, but still manageable in size. Most
of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of the
surrounding Wolski Forest - making this a great sunny day
activity - and theres surprisingly little to get depressed
about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species
youll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami,
South American sea lions, Humboldt penguins, giraffes,
camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array
of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite). Theres also
a petting zoo, and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134
leaves about every 30mins from Stadion Cracovia (ul.
Kauy, H-3) and drops you off at the entrance. Open 09:00
until about dusk, you can check the exact hours online;
last entrance 1hr before closing.Qul. Kasy Oszczdnoci
Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zookrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 18/10z.
STANISAW LEM SCIENCE GARDEN
A fun, interactive, educational park for kids named after
late, local sci-fi author Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare
science park features different stations engaging kids in
optical illusions and the laws of physics. Recent additions
include a geological garden, a garden of fragrances and
a labyrinth. Explanations at each station are in English
and Polish, and guides (English) are available for an
additional 25z if you call three days in advance. Reserve
90 minutes to visit the park in its entirety and get there
via trams 1, 14 or 22, getting off at the M1 Al. Pokoju
stop; alternatively, a cab from the centre is about 25z.
QAl. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 346 12 85,
www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. Open 08:30 - 15:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30mins before
closing. Closed from November. Admission 10/7z,
children under 7 free. Family ticket 29z. Y
KRAKW WATER PARK (PARK WODNY)

The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water
slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains,
climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water
activities, Probably the thing your kid will remember most
about Krakw, you might not have such a bad time yourself
with access to the saunas, jacuzzis, a fitness centre and a
pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors
dunk each other. Prices are 20-26z for one hour, 41-59z for
day access (recommended - one hour just isnt enough);
note that saunas and fitness centre arean additional charge,
and that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.
QL1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91,
www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
LET ME OUT
Escape games have become popular all across Europe, and
now Poland as well. Not for the claustrophobic, this exciting
challenge involves being willfully locked in a room and
using the clues around you to solve a series of puzzles, find
the key and free yourself as the clock ticks down from 45
minutes. Can you use your logic, problem-solving skills and
a bit of teamwork to escape in time? Let Me Out Krakw
offers three completely different rooms to choose from
for groups of 2-4 people; price 99z per group, per game.
QA2, ul. Jzefa Szujskiego 6/4, tel. (+48) 788 55 61 50,
www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
LOST SOULS ALLEY
This year-round haunted house just off of the market square
takes you on a terrifying tour through a nightmare gallery
of sickening situations and encroaching peril. Participants
must work together to make their way through ten rooms
(most of which are locked and you must find a key to free
yourself and escape) of a creepy ramshackle apartment
full of blood-spattered beds, hacked-off limbs, moaning
invalids and reaching hands. This isnt a campy, Hollywood
creature-feature brand of horror, but a gruesome asylum
full of tortured patients, and twisted tenants; the scares
are less of the pop-and-shock variety, and more effecting
of psychological dread as you frantically fumble your way
forward knowing that terrifying shadows are closing in
on you from all sides. Incredibly well-done and effectively
horrifying, as soon as you enter you just want to make it to
the end. Doing so takes about 20mins, and we recommend
this haunted house for anyone 15 and over who loves a
serious scare. The best way to arrange a visit is to call in
advance. Discreetly hidden through a passageway off the
main street, past a strip club, and up a creepy set of stairs
on the first floor, visit if you dare. Now a second location
at Tytano (ul. Dolnych Mynw 10, A-2, see p.9).QC3, ul.
Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 666 98 60 69, www.lostsoulsalley.
com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Prices range
from 18-30z/per person depending on how many are
in the group.
/polandinyourpocket
Leisure
SPA & BEAUTY
CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic
circulation, release physical and mental
tension, strengthen the immune
system, improve joint flexibility and
remove toxins from your body with
an authentic Thai massage, performed
solely by highly qualified Thai
masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The
offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder
and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket.QE4, ul. Dietla 103/2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300z.
FLOATARIUM
Experience a new level of relaxation in this spacious
flotation chamber, sealed off from all sound, light and other
outside stimuli, in water that is the same exact temperature
as your body. Floating allows your mind to relax, rest and
regenerate in a way otherwise impossible, enabling deep
meditation. Try it out, and if you dont like it theyll actually
give you a full refund. A 60min session is 120z and booking
24 hours in advance is recommended (though walk-ins are
welcome Mon-Sat 13:00 - 19:00).QD7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel.
(+48) 787 78 87 77, www.floatarium.pl. Open 09:00 23:00.
THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages
performed by certified masseuses that will leave you
feeling energised and balanced. If youve never had
an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - its an
incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to do with
a friend, partner or family member. Most massages are
done in loose, non-constraining clothes to make you
as comfortable as possible, and incorporate aspects of
Thai traditional medicine, acupressure, yoga and even
Buddhism. Give it a try and discover the wonder of getting
an invigorating full body workout without doing a thing.
QD6, ul. Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65,
www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
VANILLA SPA
This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski
Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body
thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs.
Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using
top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks
courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the
sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free
consultation to have their experts create your own personal
care programme.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open
10:00 - 21:00.
www.Thai-Smile.pl
TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE
+48 531 905 965

Krakw, Krakowska 3/1
10% off on 1h massage with this guide

123
Shopping
Visit the renowned Blazko jewellery workshop and gallery for some local colour you can take home with you (p.125).
While Krakw can hardly be considered a shoppers

paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation
makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and
jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open
air markets - particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while the
Cloth Hall (open roughly 09:00 - 19:00, C-3) in the middle
of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs.
For the generic western experience you can hit one of
the shopping malls we list, however throughout this
section weve made a concentrated effort to focus not
on recognised, international brands and franchises, but
unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you
to put your money where their mouth is. As this is PL,
remember many shops close early on Saturday and take
Sunday off altogether.
ALCOHOL & TOBACCO

LA CASA DEL HABANO
Peruse the best selection of hand-rolled Cuban cigars in
southern Poland, plus smoking accessories and a wide
selection of single malt whiskies, rum, cognac and port.
The exceedingly knowledgeable and hospitable staff will
help you with those tough decisions, and even make you
want to stay and sample the goods in their comfortable,
classy cigar lounge and bar. A great place to unfurl a few
friendly hours, and pick up some refined gifts.QC2, ul.
Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 790 80 29 30, www.lcdh.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00.
REGIONALNE ALKOHOLE
Krakws best, most diverse alcohol shop - ideal for an
education in Polish vodkas and the exploding Polish craft
beer movement. The selection of mostly-Polish brews
reaches up to 300(!) and there are literally hundreds
of vodkas and other quality Polish spirits to whet your
palette, plus a knowledgeable staff to make deciding all
the easier.QE6, ul. Miodowa 28A, tel. (+48) 533 59 33
35, www.regionalnealkohole.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
SZAMBELAN
A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they
can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle
and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty...
wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QC3, ul. Gobia
2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93,
www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
VINOTEKA 13
An elite and elaborate selection of wines from all over
Italy. Attached is the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant, where
you can sample a vast majority of them, and a gourmet
delicatessen.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 11:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Shopping
AMBER & JEWELLERY
BLAZKO
Dont fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to
Kazimierzs artistic Jzefa Street and drop in on Gregorz
Bako - a Polish artist and designer, well-known and
admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery.
Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic,
Bako creates beautiful, highly sought-after rings,
bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more, in which you might
notice touches of Hundertwasser, Miro and Klimt. Quite a
character himself, his store is also his workshop, so a visit is
an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.QD6, ul.
Jzefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
LILOU
A Polish jewellery brand which has become popular
across the world for their customised jewellery - primarily
pendants, charms and chains - which can be engraved onsite with whatever special message you are able to dream
up. Glamorous but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made
of 14 karat gold, 925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and
their Krakw boutique is staffed by immaculately-attired
ladies keen to assist you with your decision.QC3, ul. w.
Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13 93, www.lilouparis.
com/en. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
WORLD OF AMBER
Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is
inextricable from the history of Poland and Krakw. Baltic
amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Krakws
location on the Amber Route means youve got one of the
best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers.
Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really
is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from
rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul.
Floriaska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton
Hotel, A-5).QC4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14,
www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
ART & ANTIQUES

Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work
to tourists right on the market square, and along ul.
Pijarska on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2).
TAX FREE SHOPPING

Your Passport to Great
Savings, The World Over
(more information at gbs website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler

2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 300 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE

SHOPPING SERVICE
Sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card
globalblue.com/join
ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY

These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny
cartoons by Polands favourite cartoonist and Krakw native
Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you
know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the
cartoons are universal enough to make great presents
and souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought
as original prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets,
posters and more - even boardgames.QC2, ul. w. Jana
14, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00.
125
Shopping
BOOKS IN ENGLISH
Massolit
Krakw truly is a city of literature - a local bragging

point legitimised by the fact that the first books in
the Polish language were published here (back in the
16th century), it was here that the first bookstore in
Europe was opened (now Matras bookstore at Rynek
Gwny 23, C-3), Krakw has been home to many of
the countrys most famous authors (including Nobel
prize winners Wisawa Szymborska and Czesaw
Miosz), hosts numerous literary festivals and events
throughout the year and is home to dozens of literary
cafes. Krakws literary reputation was cemented in
October 2013 when it became a UNESCO City of
Literature - only the second non-English language
city to receive the honour, and the first on mainland
Europe.
AUSTERIA
Situated in the historical High Synagogue, Austeria
is the largest Jewish bookstore in Krakw, offering
literature, history, guide books and more in a number
of languages, plus music CDs and tourist information.
Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving historical
exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw (admission 9/6z,
children under 10 free).QE6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High
Synagogue), tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89, www.austeria.
pl. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Note that opening hours may
be subject to change.
MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAF
The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe,
owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With
books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East
European and Jewish literature in English, here youll
also find recent English language periodicals (store
copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even
a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from
the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the
prices are the best youll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly
needs and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget
you can trade the novel you finished on the train for
credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery
nearby at ul. Smolesk 17 (A-4).QA4, ul. Felicjanek
4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
GALERIA LUELUE
This charming photography gallery/shop embraces a
pre-war sepia-toned perspective on Krakw through
old photographs, paintings, postcards and posters,
offset slightly by more cheeky graphic designs from
contemporary artists. With an emphasis on early urbania,
architecture, transportation and romance, this is a great
place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic
photographs printed on canvas, or even on linen shoulder
bags. Theyll even print your own images and designs if you
upload them on their website.QD6, ul. Miodowa 22, tel.
(+48) 728 55 10 24, www.luelue.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY)
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film
and theatre. Here you can browse binders of hundreds
of designs for different plays, various propaganda and
alternative film posters you never knew existed for your
favourite flicks. Many are in stock and many more available
to order online. They make fantastic gifts and keepsakes,
or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual postcards.
QC3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.
cracowpostergallery.com. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES

BOOGIE FLOWEAR
Hip urban apparel by mostly independent Polish designers,
including hoodies, sneakers, messenger bags, shirts, pants,
fanny packs (apparently theyre called hipbags these
days) and more. Inspired by skateboard, street graffiti and
breakdance culture, the labels they carry present a nice
balance of crazy colours and classic minimalism. Check it
out - you wont find this stuff where youre from and the
prices are ripe for foreign wallets.QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 15,
tel. (+48) 694 50 47 27, www.boogieflowear.com. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE
The idea here is promoting contemporary, young,
independent Polish artists and designers - and for once
were not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This
shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic
style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Krakws
hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other
than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop
in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just off
Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish
fibre arts, interior design and more.QE7, ul. Bocheska
7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

City Essentials App
Shopping
FOOD & SWEETS
DELIKATESY 13
Located in the basement of Krakws nicest, most central
shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of
Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils
and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made
preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are
also made daily. The ideal place to go if youre planning an
intimate dinner part, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding
goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.
QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27,
www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KOPERNIK
A traditional dating back to the 15th century, Toru
gingerbread is world-renowned and you can purchase
their range of novelty sweets in Krakw at this enticing
shop.QC4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06,
www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
BUTIK LCS - GUCCI, SAINT LAURENT, CHLO,

JIMMY CHOO, DSQUARED2, KENZO, STELLA
McCARTNEY, MCQ, JUST CAVALLI, EMPORIO
ARMANI, PAUL SMITH, ETRO, ANDR GRAND COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON,
VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DIAMANTI, IPM
DESIGN - MULHOLLAND LIFE, PURE, KISS THE
FROG, D.EFECT, MELISSA, LOCCITANE, LOOKBOOK
MOKOBELLE, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE ROBERT
KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA
BACZYSKA, UKASZ JEMIO, 303 AVENUE,
NATALIA JAROSZYSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR,
MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, NESPRESSO, TUTTI
COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA, MINI
MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, VINICIO PAJARO,
WOLFORD, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13,
DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13
KRAKOWSKI KREDENS
An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite,
Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured
meats, candies and pickled things. This is the perfect place
to pick up handsomely packaged, unequivocally Cracovian
consumable goodies, and, when available, a warm roll with
their sliced pork and mustard from the street-side window
is actually a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9z
(depending on weight). Also in the Galeria Krakowska and
Bonarka City Centre shopping malls.QC3, ul. Grodzka 7,
tel. (+48) 696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE)
Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Krakw. Essentially
the worlds oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural
marvel in the middle of the market square youll find
dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth
handicrafts, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts of
Polish souvenirs and trinkets at prices that are actually more
reasonable than youd anticipate.QC3, Rynek Gwny
1/3. Open 09:00 - 19:00, but really its up to the vendors.
KACPER RYX
Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House museum, and
step into what a gift shop may have looked like centuries
ago, if there were such a thing. This small historical
shop offers swords, armour and weaponry; leather
flasks, pouches and bags; historical wood-prints and
archaeological replicas; beer steins, goblets and pottery;
cowls, dresses and other medieval apparel - all of it highquality, hand-made and fairly priced.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 3,
tel. (+48) 12 426 45 49, www.kacperryx.pl. Open 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13

OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM
www.pasaz-13.pl
www.concept13.pl
127
Shopping
MARKETS
PLAC NOWY
This historic square was a Jewish market in the
pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In
the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse
produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings
you never know what youll find: Saturdays are junk/
antiques, on Sundays its all clothing, while Friday
mornings its a full-on pigeon fair from 05:30 - 07:30.
Other markets begin around 07:00 and generally
end by early to mid-afternoon, depending. In the
evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best drinking
destinations in town, lined with atmospheric bars.
QD6, www.placnowy.pl.
PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG
Known locally as Hala Targowa, this is the citys best
outdoor market. Open every day with everything
from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs,
dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, Sunday
is undoubtedly the best, but also the most crazy
day of the week at Hala Targowa, when it becomes
a sprawling full-blown flea market of Old World
antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records,
war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and
pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable
prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but
on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and
packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At
night on Plac Targowy youll find two 24-hour alcky
shops and the best grilled kiebasa in town (open
20:00 - 03:00, closed Sun), sold from a van.QE4, ul.
Grzegrzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.
krakow.pl.
KOBALT POTTERY & MORE

A beautiful, modern ceramic shop specialising in Polands
much-coveted Bolesawiec brand, this is a great place to
purchase or simply grow an appreciation for the functional,
folk-inspired pottery brand, which is displayed here as if in
a museum.QC5, ul. Grodzka 62, tel. (+48) 798 38 04 31,
www.kobalt.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
KRAKUSKA SZTUKA LUDOWA
If its folky local souvenirs youre after, this fantastic gift
shop is only a minute from the market square, and basically
the entire Cloth Hall condensed into two rooms (with
no crowds). Explore a diverse range of decently-priced
quality souvenirs, including weavings, tapestries, rugs and
embroidery, Bolesawiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and
trinkets, paper cutouts, postcards, painted glass, chess sets,
folk costumes, embroidered slippers and more.QB3, ul.
Szewska 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. Open 10:00 - 20:00;
Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe,
and is there anything which says Ive been there more than
a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw tee to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St.
Marys Basilica. Classic white costs 99z, black 115z, but the
memory of buying it - priceless.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl.
Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/
krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
HOME & DESIGN

SZPEJE
Located in Nowa Hutas PRL Museum, this small boutique
suits its surroundings by specialising in vintage Polish
design from the communist era. For fans of 60s, 70s and 80s
PRL design, this shop is a treasure trove of retro furniture,
pottery, glassware, toys, records, hi-fi, posters, books
and more. Certainly this vintage swag has never looked
better than it does today, detached from the economic
desperation of the era it was produced in. Contemporary
Polish society is ready to embrace communist design again,
so check it out.QO4, Os. Centrum E 1 (PRL Museum), tel.
(+48) 798 50 44 58. Open 12:00 - 17:00; closed Mon.
STARY KLEPARZ
A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered
marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local
produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities
are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D1,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www.
starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
BONARKA CITY CENTER
Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary
coordinates K6), Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space
with 190 shops including Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Media
Expert and 187 others, 20 restaurants and cafes, the
largest cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking
spaces. Built on the site of a former chemical plant - the
iconic smokestack of which remains - the heart of this city
within a city features eight two-storey palm trees flanking
a fountain under a glass ceiling. To get there take buses 144,
169, 173, 174, 179 or 184 getting off at the Bonarka stop.
Qul. Kamieskiego 11 (Podgrze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60
00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY OUTLET
15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120
foreign and domestic brands - including Levis, Reserved,
Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Simple, Pepe
Jeans, New Balance and more - at 30-70% off the prices
youd expect elsewhere. You can get there by catching a free
bus from Rondo Matecznego (I5) or Plac Centralny (O-4).
Qul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00,
krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still Krakws most
likeable shopping centre, boasting over 130 retail units
including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion
outfitters H&M, Zara and Simple, jewellers W. Kruk and
Swarovski, Alma supermarket, plus plenty of food options.
For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness
club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have
1,600 paid parking spaces to pick from.QJ3, ul. Podgrska
34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl.
Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA
Hard to miss since its been sneakily incorporated into the
train station, making it one of the most centrally located
shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors,
stores include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Saturn, Carrefour
and over 260 other retail units, 1400 parking spaces, and
a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front
of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing
to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QD1, ul. Pawia 5,
tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PASA 13
This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a
snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first
branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer
than your typical shopping mall, Pasa 13 has over a dozen
designer shops to peruse, plus a fine Italian delicatessen and
the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant in the cellar, which have their
own hours.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27,
www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
129
Directory
24HR PHARMACIES
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIE

QI5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.
doz.pl.
DENMARKQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73

80, www.nordichouse.pl.
APTEKA POD OPATRZNOCI

QB2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
24HR SHOPS
ALBI MARKET
QB3, ul. Podwale 6.
CARREFOUR EXPRESS
QD6, ul. Dietla 40, www.carrefour.pl.
SPAR
QA1, ul. Karmelicka 47.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
ESTONIAQC3, ul. Floriaska 15/4, tel. (+48) 12 429

16 98.
FINLANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
GERMANYQC3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30
00, www.krakau.diplo.de.
HUNGARYQE2, ul. Lubicz 17 H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20.
ICELANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel.
(+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
JAPANQI2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
MEXICOQul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 505
03 49 49.
NORWAYQK2, ul. Mosinicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQB1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.krakow.mid.ru.
SLOVAKIAQD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Currency exchange offices (Kantor) are easy to find

in Krakw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled a
list of well-located kantors that wont rip you off, and
dont take a commission. In Krakws Old Town, youll
find kantors all along ul. Floriaska (C-2/3), but its two
streets over on ul. Sawkowska (C-2) that youll find
better, more competitive prices - this is the best place
to go rate hunting near the market square.
KANTORQD1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
KANTORQJ3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
KANTOR CFSQD2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430
33 33. Open 24hrs.
KANTOR GROSZQC2, ul. Sawkowska 4, tel. (+48)
12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SWEDENQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,

www.nordichouse.pl.
UKQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
UKRAINEQK2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, krakow.mfa.gov.ua.
USAQC3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
DENTISTS
DENTA-MED
Also at ul. w. Gertrudy 4 (D-4) and ul. Augustiaska 13
(D-7) - both open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13,
tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open
24hrs.
DENTESTETICA
QJ1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 01, www.
dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMERGENCY ROOM
UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL
QJ2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www.
su.krakow.pl.
Directory
LAUNDRY
FRANIA CAFE
Krakws first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for
you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, boardgames,
coffee, beer and booze from the bar.QE5, ul. Starowilna
26, tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open
10:30 - 24:00. 6GW
PEPE PRALNIA
A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre
of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices, and
other locations at ul. Duga 58 (I-1) and al. Jana Pawa II 82
(AWF).QD6, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www.
pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
The best Krakw
has to offer
in one great app
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKAQD4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 14 91, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:30,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
POCZTA POLSKAQD/E2, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12
422 91 68, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
PRIVATE CLINICS
ARS MEDICAQD1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12
423 38 34, www.ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
MEDICOVER
Also at ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki, same hours as listed
here), and ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prdnik Czerwony,
open from 07:00 Mon-Fri).QK3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel.
(+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
CHRIST THE KING CHURCH
English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.QK2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
REMUH SYNAGOGUE
Jewish services held each Friday.QE6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel.
(+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl.
ST. BARBARAS
Holy Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30.QC3, May
Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.pl.
ST. FRANCIS BASILICA
Masses in Italian held every Sunday at 15:30, and in Spanish
every second Sunday of the month at 14:30.QC4, Pl.
Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.
franciszkanska.pl.
ST. GILES CHURCH (KOCI W. IDZIEGO)
Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl.
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E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
131
Hotels
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into

elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of
accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldnt struggle to find yourself a place to
sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around Krakw, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader
comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space
constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include
all of that content here as we once did, however we still
provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and
hostels below. Sleep well.
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities
K Restaurant
D Sauna
L Guarded parking on site
6 Animal friendly
w Wellness
C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available
CREAM OF THE CROP

COPERNICUS
copernicus.hotel.com.pl. 29rooms (4singles, 17doubles,
8suites). PH6FLKDCw hhhhh
GRAND
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00,
www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (10 singles, 45 doubles,
9apartments). PH6UFLKD hhhhh
GRDEK
QD3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.
donimirski.com. 23 rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles,
2suites). PH6U
LKD hhhhh
HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER
QD4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.
hik.krakow.pl. 237 rooms (236 singles, 236 doubles,
1 Presidential Apartment). PH6UFK
hhhhh
HOTEL STARY
QC2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www.
hotel.com.pl. 78rooms (8singles, 53doubles, 6suites,
7apartments, 1Presidential Suite). PH6UFL
KDXCw hhhhh
Hotels
KOMOROWSKI LUXURY GUEST ROOMS
QC1, ul. Duga 7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.
hotelkomorowski.com. 11 rooms (11 singles,
11doubles). P
NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA
QH3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.
niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles,
2apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QB4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88
88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196 rooms
(142 singles, 142 doubles, 19 apartments, 35 Business
Class Rooms). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
SHERATON GRAND KRAKOW
QA5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.
sheratongrandkrakow.com. 232 rooms (221 singles,
221doubles, 10suites, 1Presidential Wawel Apartment).
PH6UFKDXC hhhhh
UPMARKET
AMADEUS
QD3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.
hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles,
2apartments). PHUFLKD hhhh
AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS
QB2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.
hotel-amber.pl. 38 rooms (17 singles, 29 doubles,
8triples, 6suites). PH6UFD
ANDELS BY VIENNA HOUSE CRACOW
QD2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 159rooms (153singles, 153doubles,
6apartments). PH6UFKD hhhh
FRANCUSKI
QC2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.
hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42rooms (4singles, 23doubles,
15apartments). H6FK hhhh
GALAXY
QK3, ul. Gsia 22A, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.
galaxyhotel.pl. 205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles,
50 triples, 5 suites). PHUFLKDXC
w
hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW
QI4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00,
www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UFK hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW AIRPORT
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 3, tel. (+48) 12 340 00 00,
www.hiltoneasteurope.com. 155 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles, 3apartments). PHUFK hhhh
133
Hotels
KRAKW STREET ART
HOTEL KANONICZA 22
kanonicza22.com. 3rooms (3apartments). PK
HOTEL KOSSAK
QA5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.
hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles,
5apartments). PH6UFKDX hhhh
HOTEL RUBINSTEIN
QE6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.
rubinstein.pl. 30rooms (25singles, 21doubles, 5suites).
PHKD hhhh
ul. Nowa, D-6
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with

large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone
who makes the strongly recommended visit to Krakws
Poster Gallery (p.126) will easily discover why. With
such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles
would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And
they do. In Krakw, as in other cities around PL, street
art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity,
and in the last few years new street murals have become
a common sight around Krakws city centre. More
restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to
playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities
have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some
large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the
emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised
artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in
Krakws urban landscape between both sanctioned and
unsanctioned works of graffiti art and the prolific gang
signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint
crews have targeted in their war on vandalism.
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Krakw, and were
making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our
print guide weve marked street art locations with a
spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give
yourself a tour of Krakws urban art. Not only that, but
weve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.
me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do
the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and
check out some of Krakws alternative artistic visions.
HOTEL UNICUS
QC2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.
hotelunicus.pl. 35 rooms (8 singles, 26 doubles,
1apartment). PHLKD hhhh
METROPOLITAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL
QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 19, tel. (+48) 12 442 75 00, www.
hotelmetropolitan.pl. 59rooms (58singles, 58doubles,
4triples, 1suite). PHUFK hhhh
NOVOTEL KRAKW CENTRUM
QH3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, www.
novotel.com. 198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles,
6apartments). PH6UFKDCw hhhh
PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW
QA7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.
parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles). PH6UFKDw hhhh
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)
QC3, ul. Floriaska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.
com.pl. 57rooms (50singles, 37doubles, 7apartments).
PH6FKD hhhh
PURO HOTEL KRAKW
QD1, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 138 rooms (131 singles, 131 doubles,
7suites). PH6U
K hhhh
QUBUS HOTEL KRAKW
QJ4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www.
qubushotel.com. 194rooms (183singles, 170doubles,
10 suites, 1 apartment). PH6UFKDC
hhhh
SENACKI
hotelsenacki.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles,
2suites). P6UF
LK hhhh
ul. Zwierzynicka, A-4
WENTZL
QC3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, www.
wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 7 triples).
P6LK hhhh
Hotels
MID-RANGE
ASCOT HOTEL
QE3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06,
www.hotelascot.pl. 49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles,
7triples, 2quads). PH6U hhh
CAMPANILE
QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.
campanile.com. 106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles,
43triples, 1suite). PH6U hhh
CLASSICQD3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424
03 03, www.hotel-classic.pl. 31 rooms (26 singles,
26doubles, 3triples, 5apartments). P6U hhh
EDENQE6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65,
www.hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles,
5triples, 2suites). PH6UD hhh
FLORYANQC2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431
14 18, www.floryan.com.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles,
21doubles, 8triples, 3quads). PH6K hhh
HOTEL DAVIDQE6, ul. Ciemna 13, tel. +48 12 619 24
70, www.hoteldavid.pl. 21rooms (5singles, 16doubles).
PH6UGK hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ
QD6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 38rooms (38singles, 28doubles, 2triples).
PH6 hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II
QE5, ul. Starowilna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.
hk.com.pl. 25rooms (25singles, 23doubles). H6 hhh
IBIS KRAKW CENTRUM
QA5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 175rooms (175singles, 175doubles).
P6UK hhh
IBIS KRAKW STARE MIASTO
QJ1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 135rooms (135singles, 135doubles,
16triples). PH6UK hhh
KARMELQE6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 97,
www.karmel.com.pl. 11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles,
1suite). 6K hhh
MALTASKIQB4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12
431 00 10, www.donimirski.com. 16rooms (16singles,
14doubles). H6UL hhh
MATEJKO
QD1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.
matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (48 singles, 45 doubles,
3apartments). H6UK hhh
135
Hotels
POD WAWELEM
QB5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.
hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48rooms (47singles, 42doubles,
1apartment). PH6UKD hhh
POLLERA
QD3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.
pollera.com.pl. 42rooms (7singles, 24doubles, 7triples,
2quads, 2apartments). H6 hhh
POLSKI POD BIAYM OREM
QC2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www.
donimirski.com. 60 rooms (30 singles, 22 doubles,
5triples, 3suites). PH6UK hhh
ROYALQC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12
421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. 102rooms (34singles,
38doubles, 14triples, 13suites, 3apartments). PH
6UK hhh
Airconditioned suites,
Art Nouveau ambiance,
situated in the very heart of the Old Town...
ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Krakw
Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89
rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl
RUCZAJ
Qul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.ruczajhotel.
com.pl. 45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12 triples,
4quads, 4suites). PH6UKD hhh
VIENNA HOUSE EASY CHOPIN CRACOW
QK2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles,
1apartment). PH6UFKD hhh
WAWELQC4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles,
1apartment). PHKDw hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow

just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw

tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
WIELOPOLEQD4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14

75, www.wielopole.pl. 35rooms (9singles, 27doubles,
9triples). P6UK hhh
WYSPIASKIQD3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231 rooms
(41singles, 190doubles, 91triples). H6UFLK
hhh
BUDGET
IBIS BUDGET KRAKW STARE MIASTO
QJ1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www.
accorhotels.com. 167rooms (167singles, 167doubles).
P6U h
TOURNETQD6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. 18rooms (17singles,
16doubles, 10triples). 6K
TRZY KAFKI GUEST ROOMS
QB3, ul. Straszewskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 632 48 56,
www.trzykafki.pl. 19 rooms (15 singles, 15 doubles,
2 triples, 5 quads, 7 Five-person room, 3 Six-person
room, 1Seven-person room). 6
Hotels
APARTMENTS
HOSTELS
ANTIQUE APARTMENTS
QB2, Plac Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 67,
www.antiqueapartments.pl. 41rooms (41apartments)
Breakfast 25z. P6
GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN

QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.
goodbyelenin.pl. 14 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles,
62dorm beds).
APARTMENT CRACOWQC2, ul. Floriaska 39,

tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com.
30rooms (30apartments). 6K
GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE

QC2, ul. Floriaska 43, tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, www.
gregtomhostel.com. 10rooms (92dorm beds). K
B&B LA FONTAINE
QC3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
bblafontaine.com. 11rooms (11apartments). K
LITTLE HAVANA PARTY HOSTEL

QB3, ul. Jagielloska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 24 00,
www.thelittlehavanahostel.com. 14 rooms (2 doubles,
126dorm beds). 6
KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS

QD2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www.
krakowapartments.info. 14rooms (14apartments).
KRAKOW FOR YOU APARTMENTS
krakowforyou.com. 12rooms (12apartments). 6
RED BRICK
QD1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66 00, www.
redbrick.pl. 16rooms (16apartments). 6
RED KURKA
QC4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www.
redkurka.com. 3rooms (3apartments). 6
MOMOTOWN
QD6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 69 29,
www.momotownhostel.com. 20 rooms (10 singles,
10doubles, 80dorm beds).
PINK PANTHERS HOSTEL
QC2, ul. w. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www.
pinkpanthershostel.com. 13rooms (2doubles, 66dorm
beds).
SECRET GARDEN HOSTEL
QD7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www.
thesecretgarden.pl. 30 rooms (30 singles, 30 doubles,
5triples). 6
137
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Helclw I1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K4
Heweliusza L5
Hofmana F3
Humberta H3
Igrcw G2
Ingardena H3
Izaaka
D/E6
Jabonowskich H/I3
Jadwigi z obzowa
F/G1
Jagielloska
B2/3
Jachowicza L2
Jakuba
E6
Jaskcza H3
Joselewicza J3
Jzefa
D/E6
Jzefitw H1
Kadecka G1
Kalwaryjska I/J5
Kamienna I/J1
Kamieskiego I/J5
Kanonicza
C4/5
Kapelanka H4/5
Kapucyska
A/B3
Karowicza H2
Karmelicka
A/B1/2
Kasztelaska G/H3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela
K1
Kazimierza Wielkiego
G/H1
Kielecka K1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L4
Kijowska, Al.
G/H1/2
Kiliskiego A7
Klimeckiego K/L4
Kmieca H1
Kobierzyska H5
Kochanowskiego A1/2
Koletek
C6
Kotaja
E3
Komandosw I4/5
Konarskiego H2
Konfederacka
A7
Konopnickiej A/B5/7
Konwisarzy F1/2
Kopernika
D/E3
Kordylewskiego K2/3
Kociuszki H3
Kosynierw L2
Kotlarska K3
Kolarska L5
Krakowska D6/7
Krasickiego I5
Krasiskiego, Al.
H3
Kraszewskiego H3
Kredowa F5
Kremerowska
A1
Krlewska H1
Krlowej Jadwigi
F/G2/3
Krtka
C1
Krowoderska
C1
Krupnicza A/B2/3
Krzemionki J5
Krzesawicka L1
Krzywa
C1
Krzywda L4/5
ks. Kordeckiego
C6/7
Ksicia Jzefa
F/G4
Kujawska H1
Kupa
E6
Kurkowa J2
Kurniki
D1
Kwartowa L1
Lanckoroska K5
Lea F/H1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego
J4/5
Lenartowicza H/I1/2
Leszczynowa F3
Lewkowa E6
Limanowskiego J/K4
Lipowa K4
Litewska H1
Loretaska
A2/3
Lubelska I1
Lubicz
D/E2
Lublaska K1
Lubomirskiego J/K2
Ludowa K5
Ludwinowska I4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska
B1/2
Madaliskiego A6
Maa A4
Malczewskiego F/G3-4
May Rynek
C3
Masarska K3
Matejki, Pl.
I/J2
Mazowiecka H/I1
Meiselsa D6
Metalowcw E3/4
Mickiewicza, Al.
H2
Michaowskiego A1/2
Michaowskiego H/I2
Mikoajska C/D3
Miodowa D/E5/6
Mitery I5
Mlaskotw H3
Myska K1
Mogilska K/L1/2
Moniuszki K2
Monte Cassino
A7
Montelupich I1
Mosinicza K2
Mostowa D/E7
Na Grdku
D3
Na Przejciu
E6
Na Szaniec
L3
Na Ustroniu
I4
Na Zjedzie
J4
Nadwislanska J4
Nawojki G2
Obona H1
Odlewnicza F1/2
Odrowa I1
Ofiar Dbia
L3
Ogrodowa
D1
Oleandry H2/3
Olszaska K1
Orawska I5
Orzeszkowej
C6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F3
Paderewskiego C/D1
Paproci L4
Parkowa J5
Patynw G4
Pauliska
C6/7
Pawia
D1/2
Pawlickiego, ks.
H4/5
Pdzichw I1/2
Piastowska F/G1/3
Piekarska C/D7
Pietrusiskiego G4/5
Pijarw K/L1
Pijarska
C/D2
Pisudskiego A/B3/4
Piwna J4
Pl. Baw
E6
Pl. Bernardyski
C5
Pl. Biskupi
B/C1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta
J4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
A3
Pl. Inwalidw
H2
Pl. Kossaka
A5
Pl. Mariacki
C3
Pl. Matejki
D1/2
Pl. Na Groblach
B4/5
Pl. Nowy
D6
Pl. Sowiaski
C1
Pl. Serkowskiego
J4/5
Pl. Szczepaski
B2
Pl. w. Ducha
D2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny
C4
Pl. Wolnica
D7
Pl. Wszytkich witych
C4
Paszowska L4
Pod Kopcem
F3
Pod Kopcem, Al.
K5
Podbrzezie J3
Podbrzezie
D5/6
Podgrska E7
Podchorych G1
Podskale I/J5
Podwale B2/3
Podzamcze B/C5
Pokoju, Al.
K/L2/3
Pkole L3
Pomorska H1
Portowa K/L4
Poselska B/C4
Powile A/B5
Powronicza A6
Powstacw lskich, Al. J/K5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich, Al.
K/L4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K2/3
Prdnicka I1
Prandoty J/K1
Praska G/H4
Prusa H3
Przedwionie I4/5
Przemysowa K4
Przybyszewskiego F1
Puaskiego A6/7
Racawicka H1
Radziwiowska E2/3
Rajska
A2
Rakowicka J/K1/2
Reformacka
A/B2
Rkawka J/K4
Retoryka
A4
Reymana G2
Reymonta G/H2
Rodackiego J/K5
Rana
A6
Ruczaj F/G5
Rybaki I/J4
Rybna L4/5
Rynek Dbnicki
A6
Rynek Gwny
C3
Rynek Kleparski
C/D1
Rynek Podgrski
J4
Rzeszowska
E6
Rzenicza K3
Sdowa K2
Salezjaska G/H5
Salwatorska H3
Sandomierska
A/B6
Sarego
C/D4/5
Saska L4/5
Senacka
C4
Senatorska H3
Siedleckiego E4/5
Siemieskiego G/H1
Siemiradzkiego A1
Sienkiewicza H1
Sienna C3/4
Skaeczna C/D7
Skalica F5
Skarbiskiego G1
Skawiska C/D7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E3
Skwerowa A7
Sawkowska C2/3
Somiana H4/5
Soneckiego K1
Sonecznikowa F3
Sowackiego, Al.
H/I1
Smocza B6
Smolesk A/B4
Smolki I/J5
Sobieskiego I2
Sobieskiego Jana III
A/B1
Sotyka E3/4
Spasowskiego A/B1
Spiowa F1/2
Starowilna D/E4/6
Staszica I1
Stawarza J5
Stefana Batorego
A/B1
Stoczniowcw L4
Stolarska C3/4
Stradomska C/D5/6
Straszewskiego I3
Strzelcw K1
Strzelecka E2
Studencka A/B3
Sukiennicza C6
Supniewskiego K1/2
Swoszowicka J5
Symfoniczna H2
Syrokomli H3
Szablowskiego F1
Szafera K2/3
Szczepaska B/C2/3
Szenwalda L1/2
Szeroka E6
Szewska B2/3
Szklarska L4
Szlachtowskiego G1
Szlak I/J1
Szpitalna C/D2/3
Szwedzka H4
Szymanowskiego H2
lska I1
liska I5
lusarska K4
niadeckiego J3/4
w. Agnieszki
C6
w. Anny
B3
w. Bronisawy
G3
w. Filipa
C/D1
w. Gertrudy
C/D4/5
w. Idziego
C5
w. Jacka
H5
w. Jana
C2/3
w. Katarzyny
D6/7
w. Krzya
D3
w. azarza
J3
w. Marka
C/D2/3
w. Sebastiana
C/E5
w. Stanisawa
C7
w. Teresy
I1
w. Tomasza
B/D2/3
w. Wawrzyca
D/E6/7
witokrzyska I1
Tenczyska B4
Tkacka H2
Topolowa J2
Toruska G2
Traugutta K4
Trynitarska D/E7
Twardowskiego H5
Tyniecka F/H4/5
Urzdnicza H1/2
Wadowicka I5
Waowa K4
Wandy K3
Warmijska G1
Warszauera D/E6
Warszawska D1
Wasilewskiego A7
Wska E6
Waszyngtona G3
Wglowa D7
Wenecja A3
Westerplatte D2/3
Widok L3
Wielopole J3
Wierzbowa I4
Wietora I4
Wiolarska G4
Wilna B3
Wadysawa okietka
I1
Wociaska F1
Wodna L5
Wodocigowa F4
Wjtowska H1
Wolnica, Pl.
J4
Worcella D2
Wrblewskiego I1/2
Wrocawska H/I1
Wrzesiska E4
Wyczkowskiego G/H3
Wygoda A4
Wyspiaskiego H1
Zacisze D1/2
Zaktek H1
Zamenhofa D/E2
Zamkowa A6
Zarzecze F1
Zatorska I4/5
Zauek K4
Zegadowicza A4
Zieliskiego, gen.
G/H4
Zwierzyniecka A/B4/5
Zwycistwa L2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E3/4
Zygmunta Augusta
J2
elazna J1
kiewskiego K3
Index
19th Century Polish Art Gallery 80
Adam Mickiewicz Monument 78
Alchemia 68
Alchemia od Kuchni
32
Amadeus 133
Amarone 38
Ambasada ledzia
52
Amber Boutique Hotels
133
andel's by Vienna House Cracow
133
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery
125
Antique Apartments
137
Antycafe 61
Apartment Cracow
137
Aqua Fun
120
Archaeology Museum
80
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal
Karol Wojtya
81
Ariel 42
Ascot Hotel
135
Auschwitz I
115
Auschwitz II - Birkenau
115
Austeria 126
Bagelmama 57
Barbican 73
Bar Kazimierz
48
Baroque 61
B&B La Fontaine
137
Beer Gallery - Luxury
61
Bezogrdek Food Truck Park
42
Bianca 39
Bierhalle 33
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace
81
Blazko 125
Bonarka City Center
129
BonJour CaVa
7
Boogie Flowear
126
Boscaiola 39
Botanical Garden
122
Bottiglieria 1881
62
Brasailenia 44
Browar Lubicz
69
Bull Pub
62
Bungee Jumping
121
Bunkier Cafe
33, 62
Cafe Bar Magia
56
Cafe Mynek
56
Camelot 57
Campanile 135
Carriage Rides
74
Cathedral 117
Cathedral Museum
92
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 123
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino
57
Chimera Salad Bar
40
Chimney Cake Bakery
56
Church of Saints Peter & Paul 77
City Defensive Walls
81
Classic 135
Cloth Hall
78, 127
Collegium Maius
83
Copernicus
33, 132
Corpus Christi Church
96
Cracow City Tours
75
Cracow Tours
74
Crazy Guides
109
Cricoteka 101
Crown Treasury & Armoury
91
Cruising Krakw Bike Tours
74
Cupcake Corner Bakery
56
Czerwone Korale
48
Dajwr 21 Food Truck Park
42
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu
42
Delikatesy 13
127
Diocesan Museum
117
DiscoverCracow.eu
74, 75
Dobra Kasza Nasza
48
Dym 62
Eden 135
Ed Red
48
El Toro Restaurante
54
Enoteka Pergamin
34
Eros Bendato
78
Eszeweria 68
Ethnographic Museum
97, 118
Europeum Centre for European
Culture 82
FACTORY Outlet
129
Fitagain 56
Floatarium 123
Floryan 135
Food Truck Square
42
Fort Benedict
103
Forum Designu
9
Forum Mody
9
Forum Przestrzenie
62
Francuski 133
Frantic 66
Free Walking Tour
74
Galaxy 133
Galeria Kazimierz
129
Galeria Krakowska
129
Galeria LueLue
126
Galeria Plakatu
126
Galicia Jewish Museum
97
Gallery of Ancient Art
82
Ghetto Wall Fragment
105
Glonojad 54
Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden 137
Gorce Pczki
40
Grand 132
Grande Grill
29
Greg & Tom Beer House
137
Grdek 132
Grunwald Monument
79
Hamsa 38
Hard Rock Cafe
29, 63
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
66
High Synagogue
97
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw
133
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw Airport
133
Hipolit House
83
History Museum
83
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 132
Home Army Museum
83
Hotel David
135
Hotel Kanonicza 22
134
Hotel Kazimierz
135
Hotel Kazimierz II
135
Hotel Kossak
134
Hotel Rubinstein
134
Hotel Stary
132
Hotel Unicus
134
House Of Beer
63
Hurry Curry
30
Hutten-Czapski Museum
84
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto 136
Ibis Krakw Centrum
135
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto
135
IDEA FIX Concept Store
126
India Masala
32
Indus Tandoor
32
Industrial 34
InfoKrakw 75
InfoKrakw Kazimierz
95
InVito Pizza & Pasta
39
Irish Pub Pod Papugami
63
Isaac Synagogue
97
Jama Michalika
57
Jan Matejko House

84
Jan Matejko Monument
79
Jarema 49
Jewish Community
99
Jewish Community Centre
99
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre
75
Jzef Czapski Pavilion
85
Jzef Mehoffer House
86
Judah Square Food Truck Park 42
Judaica Foundation
99
Kacper Ryx
127
Karma Coffee Roasters
57
Karmel 135
Kiebaski z Niebieskiej Nyski
44
Klezmer Hois
44
Kobalt pottery & more
128
Kogel Mogel
49
Kolanko N6
57
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms
133
Konfederacka 4
62
Kopernik 127
Kociuszko Mound
86
Krakow City Apartments
137
Krakow For You Apartments 137
Krakow Pinball Museum
121
Krakowski Kredens
127
Krakw Water Park
122
Krakw Zoo
122
Krakuska Sztuka Ludowa
128
KRK Bike Rental
120
Krowarzywa Vegan Burger
54
Kupa Synagogue
98
Kurka Wodna
49
La Campana Trattoria
39
La Casa del Habano
65, 124
Lady With An Ermine
92
La Fontaine
31
La Grande Mamma
40
Laser Park
121
L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant 49, 62
Le Scandale
68
Les Couleurs
68
Let Me Out
122
Liban Quarry
103
Lilou 125
Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre
101
Little Havana Party Hostel
137
Lokal 66
Lost Souls Alley
122
Lost Souls Alley - Deadly Walk
9
Lost Wawel
91
Main Market Square
72
Maltaski 135
Mamma Mia
40
Manggha 85
Manzana 44
Marmolada 50
Mash Room
8
Massolit Books & Caf
126
Matejko 135
Mercy Brown
63
Metaforma Design Cafe
58
METQA Perception Box
9
Metropolitan Boutique Hotel 134
Midzymiastowa 8
Miejsce 68
Milkbar Tomasza
57
Mid Malina
50
Mleczarnia 69
Moment 69
Momotown 137
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 29
Morskie Oko
50
Mr. Pancake
8
Multi Qlti Tap Bar
64
Museum of Contemporary Art 101
Museum of Municipal Engineering
97
Museum of Poland under the
Communist Regime
108
Museum of the Armed Act
108
Museum of the Dukes Brewery in
Tychy 88
National Museum, Main Building 86
New Jewish Cemetery
98
NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER

Andersa, al., gen. M/N1/3
Artystw N3
Bardosa T4
Batalionu Parasol
M1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M2/3
Bulwarowa P/R1/4
Centralny, pl.
N/O3
Cerchw P4
Daniowskiego R4
Gajocha O3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O2/3
Jana Pawa II, al.
M/R3/4
Klasztorna R5
Kleinera T1
Kocmyrzowska
M/N1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T1
Ludmierska N1/2
empickiego S1
Mierzwy
O/R3/4
Mocickiego
O/P1
Obrocw Krzya
N1
Orkana
P/R3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M4
Przyjani, al.
N/O2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T4/5
R, al.
O1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R5
Solidarnoci, al.
O/T1/3
Stalowa O1
Struga P2
Tomickiego, bp.
M3/4
Ujastek T1
Ujastek Mogilski
T2/4
Wakowicza S1
Wwozowa S1
Winiowy Sad
M2
Wojciechowskiego P1
Zachemskiego P4/5
Zuchw P3/4
eromskiego
O/P1/2
145
Index
FEATURES INDEX
All Saints Day
84
Andrzejki 58
Barbican 73
Breakfast 57
Breweries 69
Bungee Jumping
121
Carriage Rides
74
Cemeteries 85
Currency Exchange
130
Decoding the Menu
34
Dragon's Den
93
Facts & Figures
16
Food Trucks
42
Former Gestapo Cells
82
Hot Beer?
61
Jagiellonian University
83
Kociuszko Mound
86
Krakw Historical Timeline
19
Krakw in 24hrs
71
Krakw National Museum
87
Krakw Street Art
134
Krakus Mound
102
Lady With an Ermine
92
Language Smarts
17
Late Night Eats
44
Liban Quarry
103
Live Music & Jazz
66
Main Market Square
72
Market Values
16
Markets 128
Memories of Lenin
107
Milk Bars
48
Outdoor Attractions
122
Plac Centralny
109
Plac Nowy
98
Plac Wolnica
96
Polish Aviation Museum
80
Polish Food
46
Polish Snacks & Shots
52
Polish Vodka
64
Quick Eats
40
Sowacki Theatre
73
The Hejna
76
The Lord's Ark
108
The Obwarzanek
54
The Planty
80
Tipping Tribulations
34
Tourist Card
75
Traces of the Ghetto
105
Tyskie Brewery
88
Tytano: Krakws Urban Lifestyle Complex
6
Useful Transport Apps
12
Wine Bars
62
New Podgrze Cemetery

85
Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa
133
NOLIO 40
Novotel Krakw Centrum
134
Nowa Huta Museum
108
Noworolski 58
Old Synagogue
98
Oriental Art
91
Oriental Spoon
40
Owicim Jewish Museum &
Synagogue 114
Paradise Club
67
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 134
Pasa 13
129
Pauza In Garden
58
Pharmacy Museum
87
Pharmacy Under the Eagle
101
Piec'Art 66
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa
52
Pimiento 44
Pink Panther's Hostel
137
PINO 34
Piwnica Pod Baranami
64
Plac Bohaterw Getta
103
Plac Nowy
128
Plac Nowy 1
121
Plac Targowy Unitarg
128
Pod Baranem
50
Pod Norenami
55
Pod Nosem
50
Pod R
50, 134
Pod Temid
48
Pod Wawelem
50, 136
Polakowski 50
Polish Aviation Museum
80
Pollera 136
Polonia Wax Museum
87
Polski Pod Biaym Orem
136
Primo Gastronomia
40
Prozak 2.0
66
Przypiecek 44
PURO Hotel Krakw
134
Qubus Hotel Krakw
134
Radisson Blu
133
Rakowicki Cemetery
85
Red Brick
137
Red Kurka
137
Regionalne Alkohole
124
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 98
Restauracja Pod Anioami
52
Restauracja Sukiennice
52
Restauracja w Hotelu Francuskim 52
Rock Shop
128
Royal 136
Royal Crypts
93
Royal Private Apartments
91
Ruczaj 136
Rynek Underground
88
Rzenia - Ribs on Fire
30
Salwator Cemetery
85
Ssiedzi 52
Scandale Royal
36, 44, 57
Schindler's Factory
102
Secret Garden Hostel
137
SeeKrakow 75
Senacki 134
Sheraton Grand Krakow
133
Shisha Club by Bollywood
64
Sigismund Bell
93
Singer 69
Sissi Organic Bistro
36
Skaka & the Pauline Monastery 96
Sodki Wierzynek
58
Sowacki Theatre
73
Smaki Gruzji
32
Smakoyki 53
Soprano 116
Spoem Deluxe
66
rdmiecie Pub
116
St. Adalberts Church
77
Stained Glass Museum
88
St. Andrews Church
77
Stanisaw Lem Science Garden 122
Stara Zajezdnia
69
Starmach Gallery
105
Stary Kleparz
128
Stary Port
64
State Rooms
91
Ster River Cruises
120
St. Francis' Basilica
77
St. Joseph's Church
100
St. Marys Basilica
76
S-Tours 74
Strefa 8
Strzelecki Park
119
Szambelan 124
Szara 36
Szara G
53
Szara Kazimierz
36
Szoayski House
89
Szpeje 128
Szpitalna 1
67
Tao by Zen
30
Tarnw District Museum - Main
Branch 117
T.E.A. Time
69
Teatro Cubano
67
Temple Synagogue
99
Terapia Grupowa
69
Thai Smile Massage
123
The Jewish Cemetery
118
The Lord's Ark
108
The Old Synagogue Bimah
118
The Piano Rouge
66
The Spaghetti
42
The Stage
121
Tournet 136
Town Hall Museum
119
Town Hall Tower
89
Tradycyja 36
Trzy Kafki Guest Rooms
136
Trzy Rybki
36
Two Wheels
120
Vanilla Sky
36
Vanilla Spa
123
Vegan Bistro Nova Krova
55
Veganic 8
Vienna House Easy Chopin Cracow
136
Vinoteka 13
124
Vis a Vis
65
Viva la PINTA
65
Wanda's Mound
109
Wawel 136
Wawel Castle
90
Wawel Cathedral
92
Wentzl 134
Wesele 53
Wee Krafta
9
White Camel
38
Wieliczka Salt Mine
110
Wielopole 136
WieloPole 3
55
Wierzynek 54
World of Amber
125
WOW KRAKOW!
74
Wyspiaski 136
ZaKadka - Food & Wine
31
Zazie Bistro
31
Zenit 36
Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love
Boutique - Atelier
Symbols of precious moments
Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand

created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.
Lilous philosophy is to create unique, engraved jewelry, customized
and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life,
emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of
architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where
engraving is hand-made on demand.
Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. plated-gold,
and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets
and precious stones, crystals and pearls.
KRAKW, 27 witego Tomasza Street

lilouparis.com
/bemylilou
/bemylilou
Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love
Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony
Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Ghid de Buzunar - Cracovia

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events 20

Maps & Index

October - November 2016

4 Krakw In Your Pocket

Tytano: Manufacturing Local Hipsters Since 2016.

RAISING THE TYTANIC

RESTAURANTS & CAFES

LOST SOULS ALLEY

Arrival & Transport

Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with

located in the multi-storey parking garage across from

Arrival & Transport

We offer transfers to and from

We also offer one-day trips

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock

Arrival & Transport

The Trabant - produced in East Germany from 1957-1990,

Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

Arrival & Transport

The Polish Fiat, or Maluch - produced in PL from 1972-2000;

October - November 2016

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

McDonald's Big Mac

LAW & ORDER

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be

sounds like on in the French bon

Polish Words & Phrases

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

October - November 2016

Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493

The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.

Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

Culture & Events

Conrad Festival | Photo: Grzegorz Ziemianski www.fotohuta.pl

BALLET & DANCE

The choreography of Jacek Tyski will be performed with

the language of dance and the schism of two diverging

French music legend Michel Legrand is turning 85 next

This exhibit focuses on Polish-Jewish artist Chaim Goldberg

Culture & Events

07.07 - 30.10 THE LARGEST LEGO SHOW

Get nostalgic for the freedom and creativity of childhood

20.08 - 20.11 VAN GOGH ALIVE

This is Van Gogh in all his colourful, expressive glory - a

23.07 - 30.11 REMBRANDT.

The following exhibition will present the iconic portraits

fot. Marek Knap

15.07 - 31.12 A DISPLAY OF WORKS

Two Stories - One Dance

Remember Rembrandt? Rembrandt Harmenszoon van

October - November 2016

Culture & Events

16.09 - 27.11 KOICE MODERNISM