Warning and Disclaimer

WARNING AND DISCLAIMER: If you are underage, then consult with your parents or guardians before attempting
any of this. You are on your own - I'm not responsible for your actions or harm you may bring to others because of
your actions. Making the items described below can result in injury or death to you or people in your vicinity.
Some things mentioned here may be illegal to make in your city, county, state, or country so check the laws that
apply to you before you attempt anything described here. These notes are not complete on purpose. If you are
reading them and new to pyrotechnics, then you are making a mistake. Stop now - this page is not for you. Get a
beginning book on fireworks (see Skylighter or American Fireworks News (very quick shipping) for a start) and
read up. You can't make any of this work without more information so read up or join a club or ask someone to help
you.
Compositions - The Abbreviated Version

This list of compositions is not meant to be exhaustive. It is just a list of ones that I have used or
with which I'm currently experimenting
Index:
Benzolift
Black Powder (scroll down one page)
Dragon's Eggs
Fountain Formulas
Glusatz
Go Getters (from United Nuclear)
NC Lacquer and substitutes
Making Potassium Hydrogen Terepthalate
Primes
Rocket Fuels (including strobes, whistles and BP)
Slow Flash (for bursting shells)
Sparklers
Morning Glories
Stars
Blue
Charcoal
Changing Relays
Crackling Flowers
Gary Smith Parlon Stars
Glitters
Green
Indy Colors (from Internet - not tried)
Japanese NC Stars (from Patent Application)
Purple
Red
Smoke
Veline System
White
Yellow
Other
Black powder - see blackpowder2.html

Be sure to read about charcoal as a variable - it is a short read but pretty important.
Your choice of charcoal will affect the outcome of most of the formulas below. Use
Skylighter Airfloat Charcoal and a rock tumbler for milling if you want to duplicate
my results. If you use a heavier duty pyro mill, your BP will be hotter by far and will
probably require taming down quite a bit.
BenzoLift
BenzoLift is essentially whistle mix that is diluted with black powder. If made correctly,
Benzolift can be very powerful. Be careful - it can be two or more times as powerful as
commercial BP and seems to be the answer to the weaknesses of homemade BP - that is, the stuff
is powerful enough that you don't have to make charcoal from hard-to-get woods to make a good
lift powder. Normal BP made from Skylighter airfloat charcoal makes great Benzolift (about
twice as strong as Elephant brand 2fg). In addition, it doesn't take too long to make and it is
cheaper than commercial BP. It might be a bit more expensive than homemade BP although that
might not be true when you factor in the efficiencies of using it.
Here is a link to how to make simple Benzolift safely: benzolift.html. If you decide to make it,
then stay consistent on your process from batch to batch - minor changes in process can affect
the power of Benzolift quite a lot.
There is probably no reason to use Benzolift for lifting large shells - Benzolift is in the 3" and
less territory! One thing I have noticed - it 'slams' the shell harder than BP does. Specifically, a 3
gram charge of Benzolift in a Double-Voice Cracker will destroy the cracker on the ground - 3
grams of very hot BP will lift it into the air the way it is supposed to. Both these charges, when
used in a mortar, lift the shell about the same height.
Since it is much easier to make Benzolift than hot BP (especially if one can't get/make the correct
charcoals), here are some small diameter rules of thumb for lift quantities that I go by (your
mileage and cardboard shrapnel may vary):
1.5 to 1.75" - 2 grams of Benzolift
2" - 2.5 grams to 3 grams
3" - 5 grams
Over 3" - don't use Benzolift - use BP. Even poor lift powder can often be used for larger
mortars.
Rocket Fuels
RP (BP) is 'Rocket Propellant' which is a 18 Potassium Nitrate, 6 Skylighter airfloat
charcoal, 3 Sulphur, 2 Aluminum dust (atomized or use titanium flake - very sparky!)
mix. That makes it about 62% oxidizer. It was described by Alan Yates. Ball mill all
except aluminum for 24 hours if using a rock tumbler - 3 hrs if using a hobby pyro
mill.. Mix in aluminum. Moisten. Press through a coarse screen. Dry. This mixture
seems a bit tame but it is safe to use on almost anything. Start with it and work your
way hotter.
RPH (BP) is 'Rocket Propellant Hotter' which is 68 Potassium Nitrate, 17 Skylighter

airfloat charcoal, 10 Sulphur, 5 Aluminum dust (atomized) and riced using the same
method as RP (see RP above). Used for rockets up to 1/2". 1/2" rockets must have a
large nozzle (> 1/3 ID) and the spindle should not be longer than about 2 1/2" if you use
this mixture.
Nozzleless Fuel (BP) is very hot fuel used for nozzleless rockets. Use 75/15/10
willow based BP or similar that has been ball milled in a pyro ball mill for at least 3.5
hours. Mix +3% mineral oil with lacquer thinner (about 1 part mineral oil to about 10
parts lacquer thinner) and then mix that with the BP and dry for 24 hours. Alternatively,
and probably better, just mill in the 3% oil during the last 15 minutes of mill time. The
BP is not granulated or made to pulverone, rather it is used as it comes from the ball
mill. The mineral oil keeps the dust down and makes the BP soft and easily compacted.
Hard grained BPs will often CATO because it is so difficult to eliminate the tiny faults
in the compressed grain. Try using 2Fa as a nozzleless fuel sometime -- but make sure
you retire sufficiently away from the rocket because it will pop. I've pressed 2Fa grains
to 8000 pounds and they still had faults in them.
Red Magnalium Chuffer Rocket
3/4" (One pound) Red Mag Rocket on Takeoff
Source: Doc Barr/Dave Stoddard/John Steinberg (Skylighter newsletter)

See also: Magnalium Rockets
Strontium Nitrate
Magnalium, -325 mesh powder
PVC powder
Parlon
Vaseline (dissolved in Naphtha)
55 %
28 %
10 %
7%
+2 %
Note: Doc Barr was the pioneer on this, Stoddard and Steinberg continued his experiments.
While Stoddard's instructions state that the composition must be slightly damp to chuff, I've
found that it will chuff even when dried thoroughly - the Naphtha seems to make it chuff. If no
Naphtha is used, it seems to chuff much less. I used a standard BP rocket spindle for these and
fused them with fast Visco that had the tip dipped in NC lacquer and a bit of titanium. The reason
for the hot fuse is that normal Visco (especially American) will not ignite the core reliably.
Another alternative is to press about 1/3 increment of whistle just above the nozzle. That always
ignites them. The composition was pressed to about 3500 on the mix. It is important to use the
same size magnalium each time. Different sizes affect both power and chuffing.
I used mineral oil instead of Vaseline.
Video: http://www.wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/strontium.wmv
Green Magnalium Rocket

Source: Dave Stoddard (Skylighter newsletter)
Barium Nitrate
PVC powder
Parlon
60 %
25 %
9%
6%
Makes fast stars, too. Use lacquer thinner to wet, cut them. Prime with a good prime!
Yellow Magnalium Rocket

Source: Dave Stoddard (Skylighter newsletter)
This isn't a very spectacular rocket. It looks a lot like a BP version - probably not worth the effort
Strontium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
PVC powder
Parlon
22%
36 %
26.2 %
9.4 %
6.4 %
1 lb rocket formula from Andy H. on rec.pyro

This is the formula I use for 1-lb rockets:
62 - KNO3
10 - Sulfur
15 - AF Charcoal (commercial)
2 - Dextrin
8 - 40-60 mesh pine
3 - Ball milled Kingsford (long-hanging sparks)
Mill together the nitrate, sulfur, air-float charcoal and dextrin
together for 3 hrs. Screen in the additional charcoal, dampen, and
granulate through a 20 mesh screen.
Sourball XY (sugar candy fuel). Author: Bob Forward

printed with permission
Potassium Nitrate 54
Xylitol 27
Vitamin C 8 (editor's note: ascorbic acid)
Sulfur 7
Iron(III) Oxide, red 4
WARNING: Xylitol is harmless for humans but dangerous for dogs. Because it is sweet, they
will eat any residue left around. Be sure to clean up thoroughly if you have pets.
All ingredients should be milled together until fine and then melted and cast. The Xylitol melts at
a low temperature; a cheap crock pot set on High is ideal.
Mixture is somewhat hygroscopic and should be allowed to cool overnight to harden. Keep in a
sealed plastic bag until used.
Whistles
See whistletests.html for a full discussion of whistle fuel
Strobes
Strobe Mix from Kent Z.
I screen the following together a couple of times and then add 15%
nitrocellulose with a little acetone to thin it out a little. I only get the mix wet
enough to rice it thru a screen about the size of window screen. Spread out to
dry.
My tooling is strobe tooling from Rich Wolter. I press about 1 3/4" of whistle
before I press the strobe mix. I press both at about 6000 force pounds or 2000
psi on my hyd cylinder.
60 parts Ammonium Perchlorate 90 micron super fines from Firefox
15 parts Mag/Alum -325 mesh
10 parts Mag/Alum -200 mesh
15 parts Barium Sulfate
5 parts Pot Dichromate
Since I'm not using straight MAG I don't think you need the Pot Dichromate but
my old formula called for Mag and I replaced it with Mag/Alum and never
removed the Pot Dichromate and it seems to still work.
Strobe Mix from Ned G.
Making my strobe fuel is pretty simple. I use fine AP, 90 micron/down (about 200
mesh) and I've never noticed it or the Ba sulfate appearing damp. If I did, I'd dry them
individually in a 220 degree oven.
The formula is:
.60 AP
.25 MgAl (200 mesh, which has some finer stuff)
.15 barium sulfate
+.05 pot dichromate
+.02 mineral oil
I simply mix the dry ingredients well, mix the mineral oil in enough Coleman fuel to
get the mix good and damp, wet the fuel integrating the moisture well into the dry
ingredients, and dry in a SS Pot in a larger SS pot filled with hot water (the
McMurray method of drying).
The fuel will end up being like grayish/greenish sand, and consolidates rock hard
when pressed.
The quality/type of the chems can make a big difference in this fuel. I just had to get
some new Ba Sulfate, and I'll be interested in seeing if my next batch performs the
same as the batches made with my old Ba sulfate...
BTW,
the dimensions of the spindle I'm using for my 2# strobes is:
3 3/8'' long
7/16'' bottom
5/16'' top
I press whistle halfway up it, then strobe to above the top of it 1/4'', then a half inch of
whistle or red fuel, then a half inch clay bulkhead.
Blue strobe rocket propellant
Source: Greg Gallacci <psygreg@u.washington.edu
Comments: The GE silicone II is noted for having an ammonia-like odor, where the
GE silicones smell more like vinegar. The dimensions of the rocket made with this
propellant were 1 1/8 inch ID, with a 1/2 inch core.
Preparation: Mix the copper oxide, PVC and silicone first, in a plastic bag. Then mix
in the ammonium perchlorate. The stuff is said to be somewhat crumbly, and
presses well.
Ammonium perchlorate..............................63
Silicone II.......................................22
Copper(II)oxide...................................10
PVC...............................................5
==================================================
White strobe rocket propellant
Source: John Steinberg
Comments: Mix with NC and Acetone until it is blendable (1 kilo of comp and 4 to 5
ounces of NC binder). Dry until screenable then screen and dry overnight. Metals can
be mixes of MgAl and Mg. Generally, the finer the MgAl or more fine Mg the faster the
strobing. Try 300 mesh MgAl alone first to see results. If you don't have the finer MgAl
or Mg then you will need to ball mill - this is a whole other safety issue and you should
not do so without consulting with those who have done it. 20% MgAl (300 mesh) and
5% Mg (400 mesh atomized) causes the strobe to speed up until it is almost too fast. To
press in a rocket, put in whistle mix until the spindle has less than 1 increment left to
cover it. Cover it with strobe mix. Add more whistle or other things. This strobe mix is
slow burning and won't provide a lot of lift so get the rocket off the ground with whistle
or BP.
60% Ammonium Perchlorate
25% Metal (see above)
15% Barium Sulfate
5% additional, by weight, Potassium Dichromate
Nitrocellulose as a binder
Note: More on this strobe mix is posted later
Nitrocellulose Lacquer Substitutes.

NC Lacquer is quite expensive for what you get. You can purchase it in liquid form
from some suppliers but it is usually much cheaper to buy the powdered form and mix
it with acetone. Make a 25% solution by weight and then, from that, make a 10%
working solution for your needs.
One good substitute is to buy a couple of six packs of Ping Pong balls and dissolve
them in a 1/2 pint of acetone. The resulting white mixture is a suitable substitute for
NC and it is much cheaper. I use a small paint can (a new one) and store the mixture in
it when I'm done. If the liquid isn't thick enough - let it dry with the lid off for just a
while (keep watch - it dries fast). If it is too thick, add a bit of acetone. Some have
complained that this solution isn't flammable enough - although I've certainly had no
problems with it. It is definitely slower than real NC lacquer but it works fine. Ping
pong balls are not NC but are celluloid or plastic - don't use the plastic ones. The right
ping pong balls - the celluloid ones - will burn when lit with a match.
Another substitute is to buy some smokeless rifle powder and dissolve it in acetone.
Smokeless powder is fairly pure nitrocellulose so you are dealing with the real McCoy
when you use it. Be careful. I use both single base (pure NC) or double base (NC and
nitroglycerine bound together). There is some argument that the double base can, under
some very specific and unusual circumstances, separate out. Just keep the mix tightly
sealed and in a normal environment and you will be OK. Using acetone, make a thick
mixture for your stock solution and then dilute it for your different needs. Typically,
10% is the working solution.
Finally, some hobby chemical dealers sell NC powder. Buy that and mix your own NC
Lacquer. It will be much, much cheaper than the liquid version.
Priming Liquid for Fuses. A good priming liquid is made from the Ping Pong ball
mixture (above) and about 1/2 BP. Use a film can for a container and mix thoroughly.
Dip fuses in it followed by dipping the fuses in some loose meal. This will give you a
great priming medium - it will light the first time and every time. For added benefit,
add 10% titanium powder to the meal before dipping. Once dry, it will light even the
hardest to light rockets.
Star Compositions
Many of these are primed heavily (just to be sure). BP and 10% Al outer, 75/25 for the
next layer, 25/75 for the third. I mentioned Veline's prime before but I don't like it - it
has many ingredients and it doesn't light the stars much better than a simple green meal
mix (unmilled BP with hot charcoal - 75/15/10) +10 silicon, +10 dextrin.
RED
Click on the above picture to see an example of the Red Klumac star with a little Green Klumac
at the end
Red (Klumac)
Strontium Nitrate
50
KCLO4
15
Parlon
12
Red Gum
8
Magnalium (200-400) 10
Dextrin
5
Boric Acid
2
This is harder to light. Use green meal with +10 silicon and +10 dextrin. Two step prime it using
50/50 composition and meal/silicon for the first layer and then the meal/silicon mix for the
second. Total prime is about 1/16".
Gorski Independence Red (a variation)
Red Metallic Fueled Star:
Name: Screen-cut, Parlon Bound, Brilliant Red (see Gary Smith Parlon Stars below for more on screen
cutting)
Source: Variation of Independence Red
Strontium Nitrate 53
Magnalium, granular, -275 mesh 19
Parlon 17
Red Gum 11
NOTES:
add .85 oz acetone to 5.25 oz star batch for 4'' shell (added .16 acetone..)
3.4 oz for 21 ounce batch
4T of each prime for a 5.25 oz batch

One 5 oz cup of each prime for a 21 oz batch
sub BaNit for green
25 oz batch of green for 6'' shell
(green comp is crumbly,,treat it gently.)
21 oz batch of red for 6'' shell
25 oz batch of green for 6'' shell (BaNit is heavy)
Red
KCLO3
Strontium Carbonate
Charcoal
Red Gum
Dextrin
36
12
1
4
1
Comments:
It is a chlorate star so all safety warnings apply.
Laquer Red (Eric

Hunkins)
Ammonium
Perchlorate
41
Strontium Nitrate
20
Hexamine
12
Parlon
13
Sulfur
Red Gum
Magnalium 200 mesh
100
Burlhorse on UK Rocketry:
Here's another red thats fast, Good Color Depth, Easy to Make (only 4 Chems) and Will light
from a cigarette ash at 10 Paces.....
Pot Perc...........................70
Strontium Carbonate...........15
Red Gum..........................10
Air Float or Willow Charcoal..1
Dextrin...............................4
Bleser #1
Above reds are Bleser #1 with PVC

Color - Red Organic (Bleser KP #1) (from Alan Yates with notes)
Name: Red Organic (Bleser KP #1)
Source: David Bleser with comments
Composition:
70 Potassium Perchlorate
15 Strontium Carbonate(Creagan:works fine, easy enough to light if well primed)
10 Red Gum
4 Dextrin
1 Charcoal (airfloat)
+10 PVC (not Bleser - added in by Creagan to lengthen burn time - it also adds to the color)
Preparation:
Screen together well using a 60 mesh screen.
Dampen with water and cut or pump

Comments (borrowed from Alan Yates):
Substitution of the Strontium Carbonate with other metal carbonates for different colors
works fairly well:
8 Sodium Bicarbonate: Yellow(Creagan:works as advertised -burns fairly quickly)
10 Calcium Carbonate: Orange(Creagan:works as advertised - nice Orange)
20 Barium Carbonate: Green(Creagan:did 20/10 Barium Carbonate and PVC. It is a bit
washed out but I also did Veline's Green (with Parlon) and it seemed almost as pale - it is a
bit harder to light so prime in three layers)
Bleser #1 burns quickly - almost too quickly. I added in +10 PVC to all the carbonate
mixes and that slowed it down a bit and added to the colors.The picture above shows Bleser
#1 with PVC with some sparkler stars and some strobes.
Notes from ukrocketry forum - a thread by BigG and others (see examples at::
http://www.ukrocketry.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=480&st=45 )
R1
Sr(NO3)2 65
Dark Al 12
Parlon 18
Red Gum 5
R2
Sr(NO3)2 60
Dark Al 12
Parlon 20
Red Gum 3
Sulfur 5
R3
Sr(NO3)2 62
Dark Al 12
Parlon 18
Red Gum 8
R4
Sr(NO3)2 65
MgAl* 12
Parlon 14
Red Gum 3
Sulfur 6
R5
Sr(NO3)2 60
MgAl* 12
Parlon 25
Red Gum 3
Red (Shimizu)
KClO4 66
Red gum 13
Strontium carbonate 12
Lampblack (or charcoal, I used charcoal) 2
PVC 2
Dextrin 5
bind with 25%/75% alcohol/water
Parlon Red Star
Source: Lifted from Skylighter newsletter at:
http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?
Item=8)
Strontium nitrate
50
Potassium perchlorate
8
Parlon
18 (PVC substituted successfully)
Magnesium/aluminum
12
Charcoal, airfloat
5
Sulfur
5
Red gum
2
Total (parts by weight)
100
Dextrin
+5
Notes: This one is hard to light! It also has a bit of ash. I had it
covered with Veline's Prime and it just burnt the prime off leaving
the star. Yeesh! However, this sucker does have a strong red color
and it lasts a long time (when you get it lit). To be successful on
ignition, I had to dust the bottom of the star board with lightly
dampened Veline, then 50/50 Veline/composition, then 25/75, then
pure composition, then press. I haven't tried it, but green meal with a
little silicon or aluminum should work as a prime, too.
Falling Leaves (Chinese colored fuse):
This is also made in green (see green stars below) and other colors. The red is fairly good and the
fuse burns slowly. See Skylighter (and cannonfuse.com) for prices. It comes in 96 foot rolls. Cut
off 1" pieces and prime one end with NC or Ping Pong Ball/Acetone mix and BP.
The image above links to a demo that used a Black Cat Exploding Comet rocket as the lift
platform. The Comets are cheaper Black Cats that can carry a star or two for testing. In this case,
it carried a half dozen or more Falling Leaves. Click on the image to see the demo.
CHARCOAL
Chrysanthemum of Mystery
Original Source: Shimizu
This Source: bar talk
This is a slow burning sulfurless mix - ideal for high altitude breaks (rockets).
Airfloat charcoal (try locust else pine): 50
Potassium nitrate: 45
Binder (dextrin, SGRS, etc): 5
Step priming has been recommended.
Willow Diadem
Willow Diadem often has a color core
Charcoal Airfloat 39.17
Potassium Nitrate 31.16
Sulfur 10.68
Dextrin 7.12
FerroTitanium, coarse mesh 4.45
FerroTitanium, finer mesh, 4.45
Titanium, sponge, 40-80 mesh 2.97
Golden Chrysanthemum (PGI)
KNO3
30
AF Charcoal
30
Sulfur
8
Titanium (40-100 sponge) 27
Dextrin
5
Firefly Chrysanthemum (PGI)
KNO3
38
AF Charcoal
40
Sulfur
7
Aluminum Flake (10-18) 8
Dextrin
7
Ferrotitanium (PGI)
KNO3
30.3
AF Charcoal
30.3
Sulfur
6
FeTi (40-100 mesh) 27
Dextrin
6.4
Bright Spider
Meal D (homemade OK) 62
Charcoal (80 mesh)
6.2
Charcoal AF
12.4
Dextrin
4.0
Titanium (40-100 sponge) 15.4
FeTi
KNO3
Charcoal (pine)
Sulfur
Mixed FeTi
Dextrin
32
40
11
15
7.2
Comments:
Three Different meshes of FeTi and Ti were used to make up the 15 parts of FeTi
Swisher Crossette
Willow Formula
Potassium Nitrate
53.69
AF Charcoal
22.82
Sulfur
13.42
Lampblack
4.03
Dextrin
6.04
Blonde Streamer
Source: Bleser
Potassium nitrate .............45
Sulfur ................................ 6
Charcoal (150 mesh) ....... 29
Dextrin ............................ 5
Ferrotitanium .................. 15
Notes: This is quite nice and the FeTi makes the sparks hang for a while. Easy to light. This is a
comet formula but it still works ok as a star - the stars usually stream out quickly then a fire dust
lingers for just a bit.
Golden Kumora
(source rec.pyro through Jason Murri - original source is not known at this
time)
30.3 potassium Nitrate

30.3 charcoal, af, I used pine charcoal
6.1 sulfur
27.25 FeTi, 40-100 mesh
6.1 dextrin
Chrysanthemum #6
aka: Charcoal fire dust #1
3/8" Chrys #6 using film can shell (left) and a 4" shell (right)
Source: Takeo Shimizu

55 Potassium Nitrate
7 Sulfur
5 SGRS (Dextrin can be substituted)
Preparation:
Shimizu says to wet to get KNO3 into charcoal. You can also ball mill for a few hours. After
milling, I like to add a metal to make it even sparkier. 15% FeTi is nice - however, when you add
in metal, you start getting close to other formulas - with the addition of +15 FeTi, Chrys #6
starts sounding like Blonde Streamer (see below).
Charcoal Streamer Star
Name: Fireflies on Cocaine (Flaming Shit on Your Head)
Source: Bill Kimbrough
Charcoal, mixed 44
Magnalium, granular, 30-60 mesh 10

Sulfur 6
Barium Carbonate 6
Starpol 4.5
Total: 116.5
Transcribed from Passfire
Transcribed from http://skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?
Item=146#firefly
(SL - Probably Ned Gorski): Bill Kimbrough developed the recipe for this star a
few years ago. I first saw it at Western Winterblast as a heading in one of Doc
Barr's black powder rockets. It was and is spectacular. The effect is sort of like a
rich silver twinkling kinda like a firefly, but surrounded by really red glowing
embers. Not charcoal orange, but more red than that. The silver and red together
are incredible. This is truly a noble star. You learn to make this one, and the girls
will throw rocks at all the other boys. If all goes well, and everything burns up
where it's sposed to, it is ''Fireflies on Cocaine,'' Otherwise the star is accurately
called ''Flaming Shit Falls on You.''
A couple of notes. All parts are parts by weight; it doesn't matter what they add
up to. The pine charcoal is critical. Without it, you ain't got the true Flaming
Shit star.
''I like to take the [yellow] pine charcoal as it comes out of the yard grinder, and
put it in the ball mill for 10 minutes. Sift out (remove) what doesn't fall through
a window screen, and just use the mixed granulation of the charcoal--Better
charcoal effect. I mostly roll mine with starpol as a binder, but I have made the
formula into comets, stars, and even tried it in lance. Pump, cut or roll, works
good for me, but never use starpol as the binder if it is to be the outside of a
color change star, as it will surely cause a driven in (moisture) problem.''
--Bill Kimbrough
BLUE
Bill Ofca Blue (from a longish discussion on Passfire)
39 Potassium Perchlorate
20 Potassium Chlorate
16 Lactose
10 Copper Carbonate
11 Parlon
4 Dextrin
Baechle 6
Potassium Perchlorate 30
Barium Nitrate 20
Parlon 20
Copper(II) Oxide, black 10
Aluminum, atom, spher, 120-325 mesh, 20 micron 10
Hexamine 6
Red Gum 4
Nedski subs lactose for the hex and screen slices them. (see Gary Smith stars
for screen slicing information)
Blue
Bleser AP Blue #20

AP Blue
------------Ammonium Perchlorate - 68
Hexamine - 17
Copper Oxychloride - 11
Dextrin - 4
Comments:
AP star so do not mix with chlorates. Prime with AP prime and not BP
KCLO3
Copper Oxy
Lactose
Dextrin
Saran (HCB)
65
12.5
12.5
5
5
Comments:
Cheap blue - It is a chlorate star so all safety warnings apply.
Blue from Skylighter article on blues:
http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?Item=12
B10
Potassium perchlorate38
Ammonium perchlorate29
Copper carbonate
Red gum
Dextrin
14
14
5
Blue 49 (Shimizu)
KCLO4
Parlon
Red Gum
Copper Oxide
Dextrin
MgAL (optional)
61.2
11.6
9.0
12.3
4.2
1.5
BlueStar#1(not recommended!)
Source:
Item=12
Skylighter:http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?
(B2)
Potassium perchlorate 60.8 (much depends on the purity of the perc!)
Parlon 13.0 (Temporarily misplaced my Parlon - used PVC)
Copper carbonate 12.0
Red gum 9.0
Dextrin 4.8
Notes: This works ok - using more Parlon and no Dextrin and dissolving it in acetone
seems to make it better but harder to light. Potassium perchlorates available in the U.S.
have a good deal of foreign material in them - be sure you use a fairly pure perc else the
color will be washed to white.
Falling Leaves (Chinese colored fuse - get blue at Cannonfuse.com). Click HERE for demo.
Blue Star #2(not recommended!)
Source: I 'discovered' it in isolation while experimenting with colder star compositions

andtrying to get them to light easier. I have since found it on the UK RocketryForum (or
near enough).
KClO4 70
PVC 9
CuO 15
Red Gum 10
Dextrin 5 (additional %) (note: UK Rocketry Forum lists SGRS instead of Dextrin)
Blue Star #3(not recommended!)
Source (and comments from the source): Skylighter article on blues:

http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?Item=12 and from Chemistry of
the Elements" and reprinted in D. Haarmann's Pyrotechnic Formulary" and elsewhere. Good
ignition. This potassium-perchlorate augmented ammonium perchlorate composition was in the
minority of tested AP formulae in regards to ignition (Ed. Meaning it was good, not bad). Color
saturation was very good and bum rate was acceptable. A good formula
B10
Potassium perchlorate38 (get the purest ingredients!)
Ammonium perchlorate29
Copper carbonate
14
Red gum
14
Dextrin
5
Comments: This one was easy enough to make once you have the ingredients. It
lights easily and has a good review on Skylighter. It does seem a tad light but still good. I
rolled it and primed it with three layers.
Blue Star #4 (recommended - CAUTION - THIS IS A CHLORATE STAR - DO

NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE NEW TO PYRO - GET SOMEONE TO HELP YOU
UNDERSTAND CHLORATE SAFETY BEFORE ATTEMPTING)
These are from page 216 of Shimzu's FAST - you can choose fast burning or a bit
slower burning. Both should be primed.
Blue Star
Faster Slower(preferred)
Potassium Chlorate ... 66.560.8

Red Gum ...................9.99.0
Cupric Oxide ............. 13.4xx
Copper Carbonate...... xx12.3
Parlon .................... 5.413.1
SGRS (Binder) ............ 4.84.8
Chlorate Stars
''In keeping with the practice of remaining on topic for posts,
this is my favorite blue star comp (it is my modification of
a formula originally posted by Shimizu in FAST):
Blue Star
Star
Lift*
same page
Potassium Chlorate ........ 64.5 % 66.5
Red Gum ................... 9.9
9.9
Original from page 216 FAST (formula II) Slower version from
66.5
9.9
60.8
9.0
Cupric Oxide ..............

Copper Carbonate.......
Parlon ....................
Charcoal ..................
SGRS (Binder) .............
13.4
xx
5.4
2.0
4.8
13.4
xx
5.4
2.0
2.4
13.4
xx
5.4
xx
4.8
xx
12.3
13.1
xx
4.8
Lights easily, burns fast, good blue color.

Editor's note: This burns very fast. Cut them larger than you normally would - start with 1/2" for a 3" shell.
I didn't use a prime since they seemed to grab fire very easily. No prime works but you might want to put
on a thin one anyway just for protection of the chlorate surface-to-surface contact.
*Experimental attempt at making a blue lift for mines - the intent was to have a pure blue wall instead of
getting interference from the orange sparks of 2FA.
---------------------------------Bill, I don't think Ofca's blue is in the formula database, but here it is:
KClO3 .65
Cu Oxychloride .13
Lactose .13
Chlorowax .05
Dextrin .04
Dampen with water only
cut 1/2'' cubes (kinda messy)
or roll into round stars (rolls great)
ned
Blue Pyro
Science
Potassium Perchlorate
66.1
Copper Oxide
13.4
Parlon
10.7
Red Gum
9.8
Dextrin
105
Blue Stars with Paris Green from a post by Harry Conover on rec.pyrotechnics
Right out of Tenney Davis's book, here is the first one for a 'nonelectric' star comp.,
Potassium Chlorate
Paris Green
Barium Nitrate
Dextrin
Shellac
48
18
16
3
10
This comp produces very intensely color saturated blue stars, but
other than for test shells, I've never use it in preference to the
following composition, which for many years was mainstream fireworks
suppliers. The following formulation gained popularity when the cost
of powdered aluminum rapidly decreased. It is the 'blue electric
star'. Davis lists this formulation, which he attributes to which he
attributes to Allen F. Clark.
Potassium Chlorate
Aluminum
Paris Green
Dextrin
Shellac
32
8
16
2
1
John Reilly's Blue (revisited)

After rereading Shimizu's "Fireworks From A Physical
Standpoint" about a year ago, I dropped the PVC component in the mix
to only 5% and upped the chlorate and shellac.
Potassium Chlorate 62%
Black Copper Oxide 20
PVC
5
Shellac
Dextrine
9
4
Chinese Blue (works best in small stars. Fades as you go bigger)

46 KCLO4
26 CuO
15 S
5 HCB
3 MgAl
5 Phenolic Resin (looking for substitute - maybe shellac or red gum and then wet with alcohol)
PURPLE
Purple (from Mike S. and others)
Potassium chlorate 24
Strontium carbonate 3-3/4
Copper oxychloride 2-1/2
Shellac 4
Hexachlorobenzene 2
Dextrine 1-1/2
"This gives a very clear pure lavender-purple color and is useful for making
wafers for married comets or for pillbox stars. If you don't have HCB, Saran
might be the best substitute."
<from LK>
To speed this up but with less color saturation, use the following formula:
Potassium chlorate
Strontium carbonate
Copper oxychloride
Shellac
Red Gum
Saran
Dextrine
lbs
4Kg
24
3-3/4
2-1/2
2
2
2
1-1/2
2543
397.35
264.9
211.9
211.9
211.9
158.9
Purple (Steve Majdali)
% (rounded)
63.6
9.9
6.6
5.3
5.3
5.3
4
KCLO4
50
Strontium Nitrate
8
Copper Oxide
13
Parlon
15
Magnalium (200 mesh)
3
Red Gum
7
Dextrin
4
Purple Shimizu KP #2
64 Potassium Perchlorate (note that you can substitute KCLO3 and get better results
but then you have a chlorate star)
9.5 Red Gum
8.7 Parlon
7.8 Strontium Carbonate
5.2 Copper Oxide (black)
4.8 Dextrin
Purple Pyro Science
70.9
Strontium Carbonate
5.45
Copper metal
3.65
Red Gum
10.9
Parlon
9.1
Dextrin
Copper Oxide
Purple Star (John Reilly)

This is a very nice chlorate "violet purple" Giovanni Forli sent me
some time ago and I like it a lot:
Potassium Chlorate
1 kilogram
Black Copper Oxide
220 gms.
PVC (very fine dust)
160 gms.
Strontium Carbonate 160 gms.
Red Gum
100 gms.
Gum Arabic
60 gms.
Damp with water and cut or roll. Makes a fast burning, easily lit
star. I prime lighly with fine meal. If you use Parlon instead of
PVC, it may change the color and burn slightly. Also, this is more on
the blue side of "purple" than the red. Hardt also has some very good
compositions for purple using chlorate as well as perchlorate.
John Reilly.
Yes. As Pyrotec said, gum arabic (acacia gum) can be substituted with
dextrine with little noticable difference. I'd probably go to 4.0 or
4.5% dextrin though and adjust the red gum and pvc down 1% total. You
can also make a nice blue chlorate star with this kind of mix:
Potassium Chlorate
60%
PVC
10%
Copper Oxide (black or red) 20%
Shellac
6% (red gum can be used also)
Dextrine
4%
Damp w/water and cut or roll. Light BP prime. This isn't quite as
good as the KClO3/Paris Green,HCB, with stearine, or lactose and
shellac and dextrine but it's better than many in my opinion and lights
easily.
John Reilly
GREEN
Green (Klumac)
Barium Nitrate
50
KCLO4
15
Parlon
12
Red gum
8
Magnalium (200-400)
10
Dextrin
Boric Acid
5
2
This is harder to light. Use green meal with +10 silicon and +10 dextrin. Two step prime it using
50/50 composition and meal/silicon for the first layer and then the meal/silicon mix for the
second. Total prime is about 1/16".
Green star #1
Veline's Green and Bleser #1 (substituting Barium Carbonate and PVC (20/10) for the
Strontium Carbonate) have been tried. Both are pale. Bleser #1 is explained under RED. Veline's
green is:
Barium Carbonate ............. 15
Barium Nitrate .................. 24
Potassium Perchlorate ....... 30
Magnalium ........................ 11
Red Gum .......................... 5
Parlon .............................. 15
Dextrin ............................
5
I dampened with 35% alcohol and primed in three layers
Green star #2
Bright Green (Best of AFN III, p. 115, seen first in Tom Perigrin's Book "Introductory
Practical Pyrotecnics")
Potassium Perchlorate ... 30
Barium Carbonate .......... 19
Magnalium ...................... 30
PVC ................................. 12
Red Gum ......................... 4
Dextrin ............................ 4
Comments: Triple primed. This is harder to light and is certainly Bright Green.
Falling Leaves (Chinese colored fuse) Click HERE for demo.
This is probably the best substitute for green stars (as long as you buy the green Falling Leaves!).
You don't have to worry about Barium compounds and it is fairly cheap. See Skylighter (and
cannonfuse.com) for prices. It comes in 96 foot rolls. Cut off 1" pieces and prime one end with
NC or Ping Pong Ball/Acetone mix and BP.
Green star #3
Source: Composition from Shimizu

Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................28.3
Potassium Perchlorate.............................47.2
Parlon............................................4.7
Red Gum...........................................14.2
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5.6 (I substituted Dextrin)
Comments: This one is easy enough to make and lights easily, too. I rolled it and primed it with
three layers. It might be the best of the non-metallic greens I've tested so far and might qualify as
a 'good enough' based on an 'ok' color and ease of ignition. The break above ( a 1 3/4" Easter
Egg) was almost 100%.
Green
KCLO3
22
Barium Chlorate 43
Barium Nitrate
9
Red Gum
22
Dextrin
4
+10 water
Comments:
This is the brightest non-metallic green I have seen. I have only observed this - I haven't made it. It is a
chlorate star so all safety warnings apply.
Tim's Green
Barium Nitrate 60
Magnalium 12
Parlon 23
Dextrin 5
YELLOW
Yellow
Barium Nitrate 60
Dark aluminum 16
Cryolite
8
Parlon
5
Sulfur
4
Dextrin
6
Boric Acid
1
Comments:
I found a yellow star that is completely awesome. It is intense, medium easy to light, and medium speed.
It easily stands with the green and red metallics. I'm considering a three color rolled star with all metallic
colors. This formula is down here because I have only observed it but not actually made it. This is Jim
Widman's formula.
See Veline (again) and also see the Bleser #1 comments under the 'Red Star' section
Yellow Shimizu
KClO4 68
red gum 18
NaNO3 7
charcoal 2
dextrin 5
bind with 25% alc
Gold Flitter??
Source: Visser
Comments: The particle sizes of aluminum powders will markedly affect the result. If Al bronze
is available, you can use all 16 parts of it instead of the two different Al powders.
Preparation: Add water and proceed as usual.
Potassium nitrate, fine...........................16
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal, powdered................................2
Sodium oxalate or Ultramarine.....................4 or 2
Fine, grey aluminum powder (preferably pyro Aluminum).....11
Flake Aluminum or medium Al powder (Al bronze works well).....5
Dextrin...........................................4
Notes: Lots of ash but it does look gold and it does flitter
Falling Leaves (Chinese colored fuse - get yellow at cannonfuse.com) Click HERE for
demo.
WHITE
white star
Potassium nitrate 59%
Sulfur 30%
black powder 11%
Notes from ukrocketry forum - a thread by BigG and others (see examples at::
http://www.ukrocketry.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=480&st=45 )
Silver Star
kno3 : 60
Al spherical 200 mesh : 20
Sulfer : 14
Charcoal : 6
boric acid : 1
dextrin : 5
OR
Potassium Nitrate..........50
Sulphur..........................30
Aluminium......................20
Binder...........................+5
(Boric Acid.....................+1)
This composition makes a bright golden white. I think a true silver is probably reserved for
barium nitrate or potassium perchlorate compositions, but this one is pleasing enough. For a
binder I have used NC laquer (this was just added until the composition was cuttable, and was
not exactly 5%) and dextrin (this was 5%). It will need an intermediate prime. In my experience,
BP just burnt off, leaving it unignited.
Note that today, true "white stars" are credited for the metallic addition of Magnesium, or the
organic (more common) inclusion of antimony trisulphide. You can also use Antinomy Metal
powder. Formulas containing KNO3, Sulphur, and Antinomy will burn with a brilliant white
much better then the white posted in the quote.
For Example:
Davis: (Creagan note - this is great and is listed at the top of this composition listing as a 'tried
and true' formula)
KNO3: 62
Antinomy (III) sulphide: 17
Sulfur: 17
Dextrin: 3
Lancaster:
KNO3: 51
Sulfur: 18
GP: 15
Antimony Metal: 10
C (+150 mesh): 3
Dextrin: 3
Working many years with white formulas that utilize KN03, S and C (with or without AL), I had
to redefine my understanding of White" after using Davis formula.
White #1 (source: E. Hunkins)

Sulfer 20.51
Antimony Trisulfide 10.25
Meal 3.84
dextrin 3.87
White Antimony (Davis)

KNO3: 62
Antinomy (III) sulphide: 17
Sulfur: 17
Dextrin: 3
Comments: This is a nice star. It lights fairly easily (I used a good single coating of Veline's
Prime), and it is not terribly expensive except for the antimony. The white is bright and pretty
and it burns a medium amount of time.
White Strobe
Click on the above picture to view the .wmv movie of a White Strobe test (500k)
Source: United Nuclear White Strobe Stars (from: www.unitednuclear.com/stars.htm - since removed probably stolen from Bleser )
Barium Nitrate .................51
Potassium Nitrate ............7
Sulfur ..............................19
Magnalium ......................18 (60 to 100 Mesh)
Dextrin ............................5
Comments: This seems to be a really easy star formula - it rolls exceptionally well and it definitely strobes.
I primed it with three layers - but it lights ok - it's just that I have a hard time getting Barium Nitrate so the
cost is pretty high and I want the stars to work. Click on the image above to see a test flight (using one of
the high reliability 3/8" rockets with titanium delay - see rockets.html). The payload is two 5/16" strobe
stars. The strobe stars almost hit ground - but not quite. They definitely last a good long time. I like 'em!
Chinese Strobe Stars (from a post by John Reilly on Passfire)

"Red Blinking"
Strontium Nitrate 58%
Potassium Nitrate 5
HCB 15 (or Saran)
Mg/Al alloy powder 18
Sulfur 4
Nitrocellulose "paste" additional 25% to damp
"Green Blinking"
Barium Nitrate 65%
Mg/Al alloy powder 17
Sulfur 5
Shellac "paint" 20% solution in alcohol addl. 14%
Rosin "paint" 40% solution in alcohol addl 4%
Falling Leaves (Chinese colored fuse - get white at cannonfuse.com) Click HERE for demo.
WHITE STAR
Formula #1 (modified)
Sulfur 20.63
Antimony Trisulfide, Dark Pyro, 325 mesh 10.13
Dextrin 5.06
Charcoal Airfloat 0.56
This is what we used for white in red-white-blue-report 3-break shells at the

All-American display at last year's PGI convention. It is a nice neutral white
and doesn't overpower the non-metal red and blue chlorate stars used in the
other breaks. It is only slightly modified (by adding dextrine in the modern
manner) from the composition used for white stars by Southby at Woolwich c.
1850.
-Mike Swisher
SMOKES
Black Smoke Stars (Daylight Stars - Shimizu)
Potassium chlorate 44
Antimony 24
Napthalene 26
Dextrin 6
Use quickly else keep very tightly sealed. The Napthalene will evaporate if the stars are left in a
device or left unsealed. The resultant star would be very sensitive. Always press these mixtures.
Another version by Ken Miller:
potassium chlorate - 60 %
napthalene, - 20 mesh (crushed flakes or mothballs are just fine) - 40%
antimony sulphide, dust - +4%
This mix was meant to be safer than the Shimizu version - and looks like it should be. Put this in
a 1" tube with 1/2" nozzle or no nozzle. Light with a slight bit of comp and blackmatch. Always
press these mixtures.
An Easy Black/Gray Smoke (military formula) that produces volumes
Hydrochloroethane 45 (get it on eBay)
Zinc Oxide 45
Dark Aluminum 10
Prime using 50/50 smoke mix and meal then 100 meal.
Using dyes for smokes
First off, get good dyes - they are quite expensive so be prepared. Here is an edited version of
Ken Miller's comments about how to make good smoke cartridges
The basic formula is:
50% dye
30% KCLO3
20% sugar (confectioner's sugar works)
1) In a 2'' ID, we use, most commonly, a 3/4'' vent hole but 3/8'' would be a bit better.
2) The mix should be pressed. We use line pressures anywhere from 500 to 1100 psi on 2'' items.
Not sure if that helps.
3) Any fine sugar sugar will work. For most items, we use confectioners dust. Ideal is anhydrous
dextrose. Scam a free sample and ball mill.
4) Dampen yer smoke comp with NC/solvent as making pulverone. Press by hand into the
bottom of the container and cover air-tight. Let sit 30 minutes. Granulate as pulverone. Granulate
again. Let dry.
Now you have dust-free, fast/faster burning granules that are a joy to handle and easy to press.
The additional mixing helps as the dye soaks into the chems.
If you really want to see the goodness, add a little 2-3% antimony sulfide to the mix. This was
common during WWI and don't worry, it won't blow up in yer face. Just handle it as you would
any friction sensitive mix, in other words, the same way you should be handling this stuff
anyway. Do not add more than 3% antimony sulfide else the mix will become too energetic.
OTHER
Winokur Silver C
Glitter Star:
Name: Win Silver C Glitter Star
Source: Modified Winokur gerb formula by Ned Gorski
Convert from Meal
Meal Powder 65
Antimony Trisulfide, Chinese needle 13
Barium Carbonate 10
Aluminum, atom, spherical, 325 mesh, 32 micron 7
Dextrin 5
Oglesbys "Better Pearl"
47 KNO3
10 Ba(NO3)2
10 Al [i used the cheap 50 Al]
18 Sulfur
10 Charcoal [I used coffee grinder- milled willow charcoal]
5 Dextrin
from UK Rocketry forum: "Its a very cheap star, but it spreads blinking bits everywhere "
Freeman Aqua (Source: Jim Freeman from a Passfire post)
My favorite is a chlorate star.
BaClO3 - 32
KClO3 - 32
red gum - 16
BaCO3 - 8
PVC [or other chlorine donor] - 6
dex - 4
copper oxychloride to get your best version of aqua. My recommendation is somewhere around 2 to 21/2%. If you get to 3%, it likely will be a very expensive, but beautiful, blue.
Sometimes the aqua color is better using lactose, rather than gum, or half and half. The lactose burns
cooler and that makes a better blue. For cutting, lactose often sticks to the knife. For rolling, it might be an
advantage. I have not tried it with stearin.
Orange (Joel Baechle)

KCLO4
Strontium Carbonate
Sodium Oxalate
Potassium Benzoate
Rosin (sub. red gum)
AF Charcoal
Dextrin
53
20
7
3
13
3
4
Special Effects Star:
Click on picture to see the movie

~1/2" Blonde Streamer round star and 3/16" flash core.
Star gun launch with 1/2 gram of Benzolift.
Name: Flash Core

Source: David Bleser (as listed on Passfire)
Barium Nitrate 66
Aluminum, flake, dark, German Blackhead. 3 micron 27
Dextrin 6
Boric Acid 1
Preparation: Must use flash core igniter formula as a prime (see igniter prime below). Roll with
50/50 water/alcohol, not exceeding 3/16'' diameter and dry. Roll at least 1/32'' thick igniter prime
before rolling on next layer of star comp. Star must be moving through the air to accurately test
for proper operation. Click on the above picture to see a short movie of the flash core in action.
Glitters
Buttered Popcorn Glitter (Lloyd Sponenburgh)
Buttered Popcorn Glitter (posted once before but this is an update with comments from Lloyd...
posted with permission)
5lb......Meal-D ....
6oz..sodium bicarbonate ....
9oz..antimony sulfide -325 mesh ....
8oz..Fine spheroidal Al (service X-fine) ....
6oz..dextrin
"Work the bicarb up and down by 1% amounts (1% of the bicarb amount) to increase or decrease
the spritzel delay. It's simple, and will work properly with from 3% to 8.5% moisture when
pressed; use JUST enough to make it cohere well at the pressure you're using.
For granulating, usually about 800-1000ml of water per 16lb batch works out just right. Linda
named it ''Buttered Popcorn Glitter''. The spritzel puffs are roughly 3/4'' in diameter, and a rich
buttery gold. I roll it into stars, press it into comets, and granulate it for pressing.
SOP is that all my formulae contain binders. Even with granulated comps, the binder makes it
less dusty to press, and easier to granulate with less moisture -- and too much moisture is the
enema .. ur... eneMY... of glitters. BTW... the amount of water used to granulate is usually
considerably higher than that used to press. The 800ml is roughly 11%. But it doesn't seem to
hurt the glitter, probably because I dry granulates rapidly in very shallow layers, preventing the
sort of reactions that might cause them to deteriorate."
Editor's note: I asked Lloyd for permission to post this, he added the following:
Danny, that's fine. You might also add "(late comment -- as little as 200ml of water per 16lb
batch works well for high-pressure pressing into comets, crossettes, etc.)
You might note for the readers that the batch represented is NOT a 16lb batch.
<G>
LLoyd
Gold Glitter (from Eric Hunkins)
Gold Glitter
50% Potassium Nitrate
20% Sulfur
6% Sodium Bicarbonate
4% Dextrin
10% Magnalium
10% Charcoal
Gold Glitter (PGI Bulletin)
Here is the gold glitter formula from the PGI bulletin number 148:
KNO3
Air Float Charcoal
Sulfur
Sb2S3
Al Atomized 12 mic.
Sodium Oxalate
Barium Carbonate
Dextrine
48
9
9
10
14
7
1
5
I bound these stars with home made flour paste, as made from the passfire site directions. I used enough paste to get
the material so that it was stiff dough and shiny, but not runny. The stars burn about as fast as a chlorate color star, so
you can cut them pretty large if you want. They light very easily with a flash bag provided you use a good amount of
BP prime so that they have a little time to slow down before they ignite, insuring their continued burning.
Winokur Glitters
Winokur Glitters (formulas only - not completely sure these are all accurate so
double check if you don't get what you want on a test batch)
Winokur #1
Charcoal Airfloat 13
Magnalium Granular -200 mesh 12
Sulfur 10
Antimony Trisulfide, Chinese Needle 10
Dextrin 5
Pinkish glitter. Hygroscopic, but useable.
Winokur #2
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 5
Winokur #3
Sulfur 9
Charcoal Airfloat 8
Strontium Carbonate 6
Dextrin 4
Winokur #4
Sulfur 9
Charcoal Airfloat 8
Sodium Oxalate 6
Dextrin 4
Winokur #5
Sodium Nitrate 10
Sulfur 9
Sodium Oxalate 8
Dextrin 4
Pinkish glitter. Even more hygroscopic than win 1-4, but useable.
Winokur #6
Sulfur 9
Aluminium, Flake, bright -325 mesh, 36 micron 4.5
Dextrin 4.5
A white glitter with a rather high percentage of antimony trisulfide.
Winokur #7
Barium Nitrate 20
Sulfur 14
Aluminium, atom, spher, 120-325 mesh, 20 micron 9
Sodium Oxalate 8
Dextrin 4
Gold glitter that uses sodium oxalate to enhance the glitter without the use of antimony trisulfide.
Sodium bicarbonate may replace the oxalate with similar results.
Winokur #8
Barium Nitrate 15
Sulfur 15
Iron (III) Oxide, red 6
Dextrin 4
White glitter that uses iron oxide and sulfur to replace antimony trisulfide. While the effect is
inferior to antimony, the formula is still useable.
Winokur #9
Barium Nitrate 20
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 4
Good white glitter that uses barium nitrate as both the oxidizer and the ''retardant.''
Winokur #10
Barium Nitrate 20
Sulfur 17
Dextrin 4
Excellent white glitter with long tail, fine grain and dense
Winokur #11
Barium Nitrate 20
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 5
Excellent white glitter with long tail, fine grain and dense.
Winokur #12
Barium Nitrate 20
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 5
Excellent white glitter with long tail, fine grain and dense.
Winokur #13
Charcoal Airfloat 9
Sulfur 9
Dextrin 4
Off-white glitter with attractive lacy effect.
Winokur #14
Sulfur 11
Dextrin 5
Sodium Bicarbonate 5
Off-white glitter with attractive lacy effect.
Winokur #15
Charcoal Airfloat 9
Sulfur 9
Dextrin 4
Gold magnalium glitter. Large flashes, good delay and long tail.
Winokur #16
Sulfur 9

Dextrin 4
Gold glitter almost identical to Win 15, with large flashes, good delay and long tail.
Winokur #17
Sulfur 13
Dextrin 5
Similar to Win 15 and 16 except white in color instead of gold.
Winokur #18
Sulfur 15
Dextrin 5
Similar to Win 15 and 16 except white in color instead of gold.
Winokur #19
Sulfur 20
Dextrin 4
Coarse gold glitter with short tail and moderate density. The advantage is that it doesn't contain
antimony trisulfide, making it a cheaper glitter comp.
Winokur #20
Sulfur 17
Dextrin 4
Gold glitter similar to Win 19, with very long delay creating more of a gold strobe effect. Note
the absence of antimony.
Posted by: blindreeper Posted on: February 4th, 2005, 6:28pm
Winokur #21
Chemical Name Parts
Sulfur 15
Aluminium, Flake, bright -325 mesh, 36 micron 6
Dextrin 5
Medium grained dense gold glitter using baking soda as a burning inhibitor and glitter enhancer.
Winokur #22
Sulfur 18
Dextrin 4
Winokur #23
Sulfur 20
Dextrin 4
Note the absence of antimony.
Winokur #24
Sulfur 21
Sodium Chloride 6
Dextrin 5
Produces a good gold glitter with excellent color and good delay. Unfortunately, it is quite
hygroscopic.
Winokur #25
Sulfur 17
Dextrin 5
A silver glitter with fairly large flashes and a medium short tail. No more than 8% water can be
used when mixing. The low usage of expensive metals makes this a very cheap formula ideally
suited for comets.
Winokur #26
Sulfur 21
Dextrin 6
A silver glitter with fairly large flashes and a medium short tail. The low usage of expensive
metals makes this a very cheap formula ideally suited for comets.
Winokur #27
Charcoal Airfloat 9
Sulfur 9
Dextrin 4
A fine grained off white glitter that produces small but symmetrical flashes. Fallout with this
formula is large enough to pose a potential problem
Winokur #28
Charcoal Airfloat 9
Sulfur 9
Dextrin 4
Aluminium, Flake, Dark, American Dark, -325 mesh 3
A fine grained glitter that produces small but symmetrical flashes. Dark aluminium is added to
solve problems with fallout and increase flash density.
Winokur #29
Sulfur 15
Dextrin 4
Winokur #30
Charcoal Airfloat 9
Sulfur 9
Dextrin 4
Winokur #31
Barium Nitrate 10
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 5
Barium Carbonate 4
Excellent, cheap white glitter with medium sized flashes.
Winokur #32
Barium Nitrate 14
Sulfur 13
Dextrin 5
Winokur #33
Barium Nitrate 13
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 4
Winokur #34
Barium Nitrate 16
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 5

Winokur #35
Barium Nitrate 16
Sulfur 13
Dextrin 5
Winokur #36
Chemical Name Parts
Barium Nitrate 16
Sulfur 10
Dextrin 4
Winokur #37
Barium Nitrate 14
Sulfur 11
Dextrin 4
Barium Carbonate 2
Winokur #38
Barium Nitrate 13
Sulfur 12
Dextrin 4
White glitter with medium size flashes. Charcoal is the burning retardant.
Taken from Pyrotechnica II.
Winokur #39
Barium Carbonate 5
Dextrin 5
Winokur #40
Barium Carbonate 5
Dextrin 4
Magnalium, granular, -60 mesh 2.5
Use 2% barium carbonate for first prime layer.
Swisher Glitter (can be cut)

24 lbs. home made meal powder 384 oz, 65.3 %
4 lb. 8 oz. antimony sulphide 72 oz, 12.25 %
3 lb. Reynolds No. 120 atomized aluminum 48 oz, 8.1 %
1 lb. 8 oz. strontium carbonate 24 oz, 4 %
1 lb. 8 oz. sodium oxalate 24 oz, 4 %
2 lb. 4 oz. dextrine. 36 oz, 6.1 %
Sieve chemicals individually once through 40 mesh. Blend by hand and sieve 3 X through 20mesh.
Aq. 3 lbs (48 / 588 = 8.1) to pump, 5 1/2 lbs (88 / 588 = 15) to cut
With a hobby mill, it is common to make 1000 grams of home made meal. If you do that then,
the following are the ratios:

Meal - 1000 grams
Antimony Sulfide - 187 grams
Atomized Aluminum - 124 grams
Strontium Carbonate - 61.4 grams
Sodium Oxalate - 61.4 grams
Dextrin - 93.4 grams
Water to cut - 230 grams (Ed: water varies according the charcoal used - my test batch took over
350 grams)
Gold Twinkler Glitter from Ned Gorski (on Passfire and on Skylighter)
Black powder meal 0.68
Atomized aluminum 0.08
Antimony trisulfide 0.08
Sodium oxalate 0.11
Dextrin 0.05
Pumping is best. Use just enough water to bind in a star pump (5%?)
Eric's Silver Flitter

(Eric Hunkins) #1
Potassium
Perchlorate
60
Dark Aluminum
21
Aluminum Flitters
10
Charcoal
Dextrin
Silver Flitter (PGI)

KCLO4
39.1
Red gum
7.6
Atomized Al (-325)
36.6
Magnalium (200 mesh) 6.3
Sulfur
4.4
Boric acid
1.3
Dextrin
4.4
Gold Glitter (from PGI bulletin but probably Degn)
KNO3
48
AF Charcoal
9
Sulfur
9
Antimony sulfide
10
Aluminum 325 atomized 14
Sodium Oxalate
7
Barium Carbonate
1
Dextrin
D1 Glitter
Source: Tom Rebenclau/Jack Drews and from Alan Yates
Composition:
53 Potassium Nitrate (corrected from 58 on some forums)
18 Sulfur
7 Aluminium (-325 mesh, spherical)
7 Sodium Bicarbonate
4 Dextrin
Preparation:
The composition designer suggests dampening with 6% plain water with 1 part of boric acid
dissolved in it when pressing comets or pumping stars. It need not be ball milled if your
components are already sufficiently fine, just screen together, moisten and granulate through a
coarse sieve ready for pressing/pumping.
Comments
I used it as delay for a 3/8 rocket. It was about 50% slower than RP. It didn't require priming
for a light burst but priming would likely be necessary for a hard break..
Ofca's Gold Twinkler etc (source Passfire - Ned Gorski in response to questions
about using Meal-D):
Rob, in BAFN III, Bill Ofca has a Chrys 6 formula based on meal D. ''The Beautiful 4'' Spider Web Shell''
uses, in one of the formulae:
Meal D 10
KNO3 7.5
Airfloat 7.5
Sulfur 1
Dex 2
If you do some calculating, you'll see that this is a hot mix with the same proportions as Chrys 6.
My favorite Glitter is Ofca's Gold Twinkler, and as it's base I use a homemade granulated meal, which
would probably work with commercial meal, too.
Meal 65
atom.al. 8
ant sulf 8
sod ox 11
dex 5
( 3 parts of boric acid are specified, but I don't use it.)
I like this one best if it is only very slightly dampened and then pumped as pumped stars or comets.
Have fun,
And another Ned quote: And, years ago, Charley Wilson turned me onto the fact that in many glitter-type
comps, using a somewhat granulated BP as the base, to which the other chems are added, really
changes and enhances the effect.
INDY COLORS (from the Internet - not tried)

Indy formulas (in %)
RED (SrN 50, MgAl-325 18, Par 16, RG 10, Dex 5)
RUBY (increase SrN to 62, reduce MgAl to 12, divide chlorine donor into equal parts of
saran and parlon)
Emerald (exact same as ruby, sub BaN for SrN)
Note: to deepen a color, increase colorant oxidizer and reduce metal
BLUE (KP 66, CuO 14, Par 5, Saran 5, RG 10, Dex 5)

you can make mauve/magenta by adding SrN for some of the KP
ORANGE (SrN 42, MgAl 12, KP 10, Na Ox 10, Par 9, Sar 9, RG 8,
Dex 5)
you can vary color by ratio of SrN to NaOx
TURQUOISE (BaN 30, CuO 16, KP 14, MgAl 11, RG 9, Par and Saran 7.5 each, Dex 5)
WILLOW DIADEM Airfloat 66, Potassium Nitrate 52.5, Sulfur 18, Dextrin 12, FeTi 30-60
60:40 7.5, FeTi 40-325 60:40, 7.5, Ti Sponge 40-80 5
PRIME
My Favorite Prime (Recent change from the Ti prime)
Name: Silicon Prime
Source: Dan Creagan (and others)
Reactive Charcoal (willow, pine, etc) ..... 15
KNO3 ...................................................... 75
Sulfur ........................................................10
Silicon .......................................................+10
SGRS (preferred) or Dextrin .....................+5
(you can also put it on with a 10% solution of Gum Arabic instead of water or water/alcohol)
Mix the first three ingredients thoroughly. Do not wet. All ingredients should be airfloat
except the silicon. Additional benefit can be had by adding +10 diatomaceous earth or some 7F
to get it 'bumpy' so it will take fire easily.
My next Favorite Prime (liberally applied to a color core, it has a titanium tail that then
turns to the color)
Name: My Favorite Prime
Source: Dan Creagan
Charcoal (airfloat willow): 15
KNO3 (airfloat): 75
Sulfur (airfloat): 10
FeTi or Ti: +15
Dextrin: +5
Hot Igniter Prime:

Name: Flash Core Igniter
Source: Takeo Shimizu (as listed on Passfire)
Barium Nitrate 34
Aluminum, flake, dark, German Blackhead. 3 micron 10
Antimony Trisulfide, Chinese needle 9
Red Gum 8
Dextrin 5
Boric Acid 1
Veline's priming
Source: Robert Veline
Comments: The wood meal in this prime makes the stars a little 'fuzzy', making the prime easier
to take fire. Without the wood meal prime the stars are often blown blind.
Potassium perchlorate.............................55
Charcoal, air float...............................20
Wood meal, 70 mesh................................6
Red Iron Oxide, Fe2O3.............................5
Magnalium (50/50).................................5
Potassium dichromate..............................5
Dextrin...........................................4
Lloyd Sponenburgh's Pinball Prime
Hot Igniter Star Prime:
0.71 pot perc
0.14 airfloat
0.09 redgum
0.06 magnalium
Use alcohol as the wetting agent. You can sub dextrin for the redgum
and use water if you wish.
Changing Relays
Shimizu Changing Relay #1 and #2
Frompage 187 of FAST

Changingrelay I
KP 35%
KNO3 35%
Hemp Coal (or Paulowina coal) 24%
SGRS 6%
Changing Relay II
KP 81%
Accroides resin 13%
SGRS 6%
Gary Smith Parlon Stars(withpermission)
Above image courtesy of Lee C. Bussy. All formulas by Gary Smith.

A summary of Gary's comments about the above chart: The formulas for the
above stars are nominal. The stars are NOT going to burn at exactly the same
speed but they are close. The silver will be the slowest but can be speeded up
with finer MgAl. (Edit: I use 60 KCLO4 and 100-200 mesh MgAl)
The above stars are meant to be wetted with lacquer thinner or acetone and
sliced through a 1/4" - 1/2" screen - depending on what size stars you want.
You can prime them after they have dried a short while. Use a good thick
prime.
Another way of making them is to roll the mix out between two pieces of plastic
so they are a bit thinner than the ending star size you want. Ned Gorski
developed this technique. Here are his instructions:
As opposed to Gary who slices the stars with the screen, and then lets them dry
prior to priming them, I dust the star patty with a version of Lloyd's pinball
prime, on both sides of the patty, prior to slicing them through the screen.
Hot Igniter Star Prime:
0.71 pot perc
0.14 airfloat
0.09 redgum
0.06 magnalium
Then, pushing the star patty through the screen starts to embed the prime into
the surface of the stars.
After the stars have been sliced, I tumble them in a tub, spritzing them with
denatured alcohol to further take up the loose prime, and I put in another dose
of the hot prime with some more spritzing.
Then I roll on a 50/50 mix of hot prime/BP prime (bound with redgum), using
the same tub/spritzing method.
BP prime:
0.67 KNO3
0.14 airfloat
0.09 sulfur
0.05 magnalium
0.05 redgum
I then finish the priming by rolling on a layer/dose of the BP prime.
This ends up being a nice step-priming system, applied when the stars are fresh
from the slicing.
The tumbling and priming produces stars which are almost spherical.
The total prime layers end up being about 1/16" thick.
I'm getting good ignition out of the stars, even in a hard-broken shell.
Gary and I have noticed that the acetone-parlon-bound stars seem to dry even
more quickly with the primes applied, as opposed to drying without primes
applied.
Other notes by Ned:
add .85 oz acetone to 5.25 oz star batch for 4'' shell (added .16 acetone..)
3.4 oz for 21 ounce batch
4T of each prime for a 5.25 oz batch
One 5 oz cup of each prime for a 21 oz batch
20-25 oz for a 6" shell
Veline Star Color System (as lifted from Skylighter newsletter:
http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/article.asp?Item=8 )
Robert Veline created this system and intentionally put it in the public domain. When you look
at it, you can see that it uses very similar ingredients and proportions for many of the different
colors, making this an extremely versatile color set: you can create any color you want using
only ten chemicals!
When you look at the part called "Now the Fun Stuff" you can even see how to mix an almost
limitless palette of colors by mixing the different primary colors shown in the table. A word to
the wise: These colors are well balanced in terms of color brightness and intensity. So, Veline's
colors seem to appear most pleasing when they are used with each other any given device (shell,
mine, etc.). Here's the original paper published by Veline, but formatted differently to fit our
newsletter.
A Compatible Star Formula System for Color
Mixing
By Robert Veline
Red
Strontium
Orang
Gree
15
carbonate
Calcium carbonate
15
Blue
Super
Prime
Barium carbonate
15
Copper oxide,
15
black
Barium nitrate
Potassium
24
55
55
30
55
55
Parlon
15
15
15
15
Red gum
Magnalium
11
+4
+4
+4
+4
perchlorate
(50/50 -200 mesh

Dextrin
Charcoal, airfloat
20
Wood meal, -70
mesh
Iron oxide, red
Potassium
dichromate
A Few Notes About These Formulae
The numbers are in percent by weight. The potassium perchlorate is a fine powder. The
Swedish stuff is what I used. The parlon was Hercules brand, but Superchlon brand from
Ishihara Co. Ltd. also works. Nothing special about the red gum, just fine powder. The best
barium and strontium carbonates are obtained from Barium and Chemicals of Steubenville Ohio.
The calcium carbonate was -200 mesh 'Whiting'. Copper carbonate may be used rather than
black copper oxide without much change in performance. I have tried finer more pure forms and
found they have slowed the burn rate, and degraded the color... Note that all of the proportions
are the same for the different colors, the exception being the green. The idea is to have as many
characteristics, burn rate, brightness, flame size, color purity, and density of powder, common
between the different powders, as is possible. While these formulas do not excel in any one
characteristic, they are all part of a matched set. The green: I was unable to get a suitable green
star for this family without using barium nitrate. So, in order to compensate for the reduced
oxidizing ability of the nitrate, a more energetic fuel mixture was used.
Now the Fun Stuff:
YELLOW
55 green
45 orange
CHARTREUSE
80 green
20 orange
AQUA
80 green
20 blue
TURQUOISE
55 green
45 blue
MAGENTA
50 red
50 blue
MAROON
85 red
15 blue
PEACH
60 orange
25 red
PURPLE
5 orange
15 blue
15 red
80 blue
Copyright: Robert Veline
Well, that's it! These stars are the results of a couple of years of hard work, they are offered as
some form of repayment to the many people who published information which I have feasted on
all these years. THANK YOU!!!! Robert Veline II
Japanese NC Star Patent (posted by Tom S. on Passfire)

amo
unt
(part
s by
weig
ht)
la la
st st st st st st n n
ar ar ar ar ar ar c c
e e
la
n
c
e
p
g y g
y g
bl
u
re re el re
re el re
u
r
d e lo e
d lo e
e
pl
n w n
w n
e
pota
ssiu
m
perc
hlor
ate
4 4 4 5 2 4 4 4 4
6. 4. 0. 0. 5. 0. 5. 2. 0.
4 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 6
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
amm
oniu
m
perc
hlor
ate
2
5.
0
0
hem
p
coal
3. 3. 3. 2. 2. 1. 3. 2. 3.
6 6 6 0 3 6 0 1 2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Com
busti vi
on
ns
agen ol
t BL
6. 6. 6. 6. 6. 5. 7. 6. 6.
8 8 8 6 0 0 6 5 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
chlo
rinat
ed
rubb
er
6. 6. 6. 6. 8. 5. 7. 6. 6.
8 8 8 6 0 0 0 5 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
phen n
2. 2. 2. 2. 1. 0. 2. 1. 2.
o
olic v
resin ol
ac
4
0
stron
tium
carb
onat
e
8
0
8
0
bari
um
nitra
te
6
0
1
6.
0
0
9
0
5
0
5
0
1
0
1 1
1. 6.
0 4
0 0
sodi
um
oxal
ate
copp
er
oxid
e
1
0
1
4.
7
0
2
1.
4
0
1
4.
0
0
1
1.
0
0
2
0.
0
0
1
5.
1
0
2
4.
6
0
nitro
cellu
lose
1
4. 4. 4. 3. 1.
6. 3. 3.
0.
0 0 0 5 2
8 5 5
0
0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0
0
nitro
meth
ane
1
5.
8
0
1
4.
0
0
nitro
etha
ne
nitro
prop
ane
1
6.
0
0
1
6.
5
0
1
1.
7
0
dinit
ro
tolue
ne
nitro
benz
ene
1
5.
5
0
1
4.
0
0
1 1
6. 6.
0 0
0 0
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0. 0. 0. 0. 0. 0. 0. 0. 0.
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
The directions are to make a gel with the nitrocellulose and solvent and use it to bind the mix. II
really don't think the nitrate solvent is necessary and any ester of ketone could be used. The fuel /
chlorine donor combo is interesting. They seem a little lighter in "parlon" than most US formulas
and the vinsol/novolac blend would be lower in cost than red gum.
Tota
l
Glusatz - long time delay mix (approximately 30 seconds per inch??)

Source: APC forum and rec.pyrotechnics (Frank Rizzo and Richard Ogden)
Glusatz
Barium nitrate 75.5
Charcoal (AF) 10
Sulfur 10
Meal 3
Cab-O-Sil 1
CMC 0 .5
Dist. water +6 (dissolve CMC first then add remaining ingredients)
Must be rammed into spollette tubes.
Poisonous!
Dark lance composition (Dead Lance)
Source: Mike Swisher on rec.pyrotechnics and attributed to Hardt

A composition using meal D 47% and strontium carbonate 53% is given, No. 5 in Table 15-4, p.
122 of Hardt's "Pyrotechnics." I have used this mixture and it works well.
Wheel Driver:
Name: Purple Driver
Source: John Glasswick (Passfire Database)
Parlon 20
Titanium, sponge, 40-80 mesh 15
Red Gum 10
Total: 125
Fountain Formulas
Borrows Heavily from John Glasswick's Gerb Formula Article
Do not tamp any of these. You can hand press them damp and let them dry (takes a few weeks)
or you can press them in a hydraulic press. Mr. Glasswick hand presses them dry and they
seem to work for him - I would be uneasy with that - especially if I was mixing different
effects. Start with chokes that are 1/2 the diameter of the tubes for these mixes.
Chemical
Red Gum
Red
Yellow
Orange
Green
Parlon
18
18
18
Magnalium
18
18
Titanium
13
13
Blue (rec.pyro)
Turquoise
18
18
20
14
18
18
18
20
14
13
13
13
15
11
16
45
43
28
18
25
15
1
39
25
43
42
Cupric Oxide (black)
10
Stearin
20
Shellac
Ammonium Perchlorate
Potassium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
Purpl
10
Zinc Dust
Sodium Nitrate
Lime
Charcoal
Strontium Nitrate
Blue-Green (Chertier)
36
10
25
65
18
Blue Fountain (from wreck.pyro)

"The granulated mixture below burns with with a wonderful deep blue in
a tableau format."
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by EFFECTS <effe...@aol.com
Comments:
Preparation: Granulate the mixture with a small amount of alcohol. Let dry and press into tubes.
Very slowly burning mixture. Don't substitute shellac with red gum.
Stearin...........................................2
Copper(II)oxide...................................1
Shellac...........................................0.5
Go Getters
This section from an archived United Nuclear Page
Go Getters are essentially rocket propelled stars. They are used in an aerial shell or in the
head
of a rocket and when ignited, they burn with a brilliant color (brilliant because the formulas
all contain Magnesium powder) and shoot across the sky. Lit on the ground or in the air,
they will fly off in a random direction with their bright tail fire. The Magnesium in these
formulas will not degrade because of the unique solvent used.
Strontium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
ORANGE
50 %
37 %
50 %
44 %
5%
5%
4%
12 %
Magnesium Powder
13 %
13 %
11 %
12 %
Parlon
17 %
17 %
15 %
17 %
Hexamine
9%
9%
8%
8%
12 %
8%
Red Gum
3%
3%
3%
3%
Boric Acid
3%
3%
3%
3%
Cryolite
Comments:
The chemicals are first finely powered (if they are lumpy or coarse crystals) then mixed well
together.
For the next step, you'll need a small squeeze bottle, similar to those plastic squeeze ketchup
bottles you find in a restaurant. Take the mixed formula and slowly add Acetone (while mixing)
until it has the consistency of pancake batter. The Acetone will melt the Parlon in the mixture
making it plastic & gooey. Be sure to test the squeeze bottle you are going to use first by
putting some Acetone in it. Acetone will also melt many plastics, so make sure your squeeze
bottle isn't going to melt too. The melted Parlon in the mixtures will also coat the Magnesium
Powder and prevent it from degrading. The Parlon here not only binds the mixture together,
but it boosts the color of the flame by providing Chlorine to the burning mixture.
Next, stand some M-80 tubes up end on a sheet of Aluminum Foil. Pump the mixture into them
until they are about 80% full. If they are to be used in shells or rocket heads, insert a piece of
Black Match (that's Quickmatch with the outside paper removed) all the way to the bottom,
leaving about 1" sticking out the top. You can also insert a piece of Visco Safety Fuse, but the
ignition delay will be longer. Let them dry for 3 to 4 days.
When lit, they will burn with a brilliant colored flame and shoot off in a random direction. Be
very careful if you light one on the ground. It can launch in an unpredictable direction... and
with its burning hot Magnesium flame, ignite whatever it lands on
Dragon's Eggs
from Passfire Discussion On How to Prime
(prime with melted paraffin wax)
the formula is under crackling microstars, credited to David Trimmel, I believe.
bismuth trioxide 37.5%
copper(II) oxide 37.5%
magnalium 25%
I use bismuth subcarbonate instead of bismuth trioxide, 1:1
Comments from posting (not LK comments): He says to bind with Winchester 231 double base(?) and
amyl acetate. I used no amyl acetate, only 231 dissolved in acetone to spray consistency. They are
impressive. I coated some with wax before priming, and they are even louder. I primed with KClO4 70%,
MgAl 20%, red gum 10% (inner prime), then a hot BP outer prime. They seem to perform best with fairly
thick primes, so they do tend to get bigger than you'd expect. But LOUD !
Editor's note: I have not had to use wax to get good results with this formula. Make sure that the layers of
material are bound with different methods. The egg uses NC, so use a water binding for the prime. Use
an NC or acetone/parlon binding for anything on top of the egg prime.
A web page has been made for this. See the index.
Alternative formula from AFN III
Bismuth Trioxide
Magnalium, granular, -100 mesh
Copper(II) Oxide, black
81.8
9.1
9.1
Dragon's Eggs from rec.pyro (Lloyd Sponenburgh Method)

A web page has been made from this. See the index.
Here's a re-preach from an earlier question:
-------------------------------------------------The formula is no secret. The real secret to getting good crackle is just getting enough NC in the mix.
You'll understand lower down in this email.
This formula has been circulating on the internet for years:
71 Bismuth trioxide
14 Black copper oxide
10 Magnalium (see notes)
5 fine atomized aluminum (-300 mesh, like Service Chemical "X-Fine")
The magnalium for "regular" crackle is 200-mesh. The coarser the magnalium mesh, the longer the delay
between ignition and explosion. At 80-mesh, it's about three seconds, and pieces as large as " will
explode in a single explosion. The finer the magnalium, the smaller the pieces must be. At 200-mesh,
1/8" dia. stars are about as large as you can make them. Otherwise, they just spall small chunks, and
the body remains un-reacted.
The mixture is screened well, then mixed into a wet, sticky dough with 10% w/v nitrocellulose lacquer
made from double-base powder (like Green Dot or Blue Dot or Bullseye shotshell powder).
There's a secret to making the lacquer that I've published over and over, and folks STILL think it takes a
couple of days to make. In reality, it takes about 30-minutes.
Measure out the acetone in a vessel at least four times larger than the volume you're working with. I use
a deep stainless steel mixing bowl from a kitchen mixer. With a kitchen whisk in your strong hand, and
the weighed NC powder in the other, start slowly but uniformly pouring the powder into the acetone while
you whisk your arm off. Mix FAST, and don't stop until the whole mass thickens up to about the
consistency of heavy cream. Work lumps down off the sides of the bowl as you go. Don't _ever_ let any
undissolved powder settle to the bottom.
Now, cover the bowl and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Come back and whisk again for about three or
four minutes, and your lacquer is ready. You can ignore any "soft lumps"; they'll dissolve during the
kneading process. In another large, shallow bowl, "crater" your crackle mix, and start adding NC lacquer,
a little at a time - just like making bread dough.
Knead it thoroughly. At first, it will become "mealy" like making pie dough. As you add more NC, it will
become more and more dough-like. Knead it until it's perfectly smooth and homogenous, and quite a bit
on the sticky side of too wet. It should end up almost impossible to knead properly any more because it's
too sticky to handle. It should be about the consistency of a very thick batter, rather than a dough.
This is hard work. Wear stout rubber gloves. Scrape your gloves down into the wet mix to get the dried
chunks back into the mass. I know this might sound silly, but DON'T allow sweat to drip into the dough
don't. (you will be sweating)
It's important to the loudness of the crackle to get enough NC in there. If the dough ends up too sticky to
handle, that's OK Just mush it out flat and let it dry a little. As it dries (and it dries pretty fast) it will lose
its stickyness. Keep working the wet mass until it returns to the consistency of a stiff dough.
Once the dough is back to the right consistency, more "push" than "scrape" it through standard "
hardware cloth onto trays lined with paper. You'll get " "worms" about two inches long or less. Don't
layer them more than a couple deep, or they'll all stick together. If they do, let them dry a little, knead
them back into a lump, and repeat.
Let them dry slowly in the shade without molesting them JUST until you can "diaper" the mass without
having the worms stick to one-another. The goal is to get them partially dry, but not so dry you cannot
further process them for smaller grains.
Now, working with a small amount at a time, push these worms through 6-mesh screening. 6-mesh gives
1/8" stars. Especially now, don't layer the mass; you must keep the stars from adhering to one-another.
As they dry a little more (the "knack" part comes now), put them back in the 6-mesh screen, and gently
ROLL them back through the screen with the flat of your gloved palm. Avoid scraping or pushing straight
down. What you're doing is basically rounding off the chunks and forcing them to size in one operation.
Let these stars dry thoroughly, occasionally diapering the mass to get damp ones to the surface. In the
sun, they should dry completely in an hour or so. You should detect no acetone odor, but you will smell
a "sharp" odor from the nitroglycerine in the NC lacquer.
Finally, re-screen the entire mass to remove chunks larger than 6- mesh, and sift out any "fines" smaller
than about 10-mesh. The big pieces and the fines may be re-processed later simply by adding acetone
and re-kneading. You can make really small stars for crackling gerbs with the -10+20 pieces, if you wish.
Now, prime them. Make up a saturated solution of potassium dichromate as your rolling solvent. DO NOT
USE plain water - the stars will react with water, and can actually ignite from the heat.
Start a fairly large mass of the dried stars rolling in your star roller. They must tumble freely. They're so
heavy that a small mass will just slip around in the drum. In fact, they may not tumble at all until you start
to dampen them with solvent (gives a little "bite" on the surface of the drum).
Wet them with the solvent until they glisten, but still tumble freely. Lay on a layer of simple rough-mix
powder (75/15/10 +7% dextrin). Do not mill this you want it coarse; just mix it by screening repeatedly
through 20-mesh. Just like star rolling, add dry mix until they'll not take up any more, but try to keep the
layer smooth, without excess dry mix in the mass.
Do only a couple of layers. The goal is NOT to build them up in size, but just to evenly coat all surfaces of
each grain. There shouldn't be any grey crackle showing, but the grains should be only marginally
larger than when you started. Finish up with a large excess of dry powder to make the grains' surfaces
"dusty" for easier ignition. Uniform ignition over the entire surface of the star is part of the secret to
getting it LOUD.
Dry these again in the sun and gently sift out the excess priming mix, and you're done - with straight
crackle.
Add up to 10% by weight of fine titanium sponge or flake to the original mixture (60-100 mesh) to get the
"brocade" burst effect.
Around five pounds per batch is about as much as one person can handle comfortably at one time.
Although this sounds like more work than making cut stars, it's lots faster, and turns out a good product.
Even for cut stars, you have to do everything but the screening phases, and cutting uniform 1/8" stars
is difficult.
Once you've made five _finished_ pounds of these, call me up, and we'll get you some therapy for your
arms.
Let me know when you've achieved a forty pound day!
And yet another formula. If you start using the dragon's eggs formula and aren't quite
satisfied, try adding a bit of dark aluminum to the mix. Lloyd has often pointed out the the
aluminum content can affect the price of eggs. ;-}
Bismuth Subcarbonate 75
Aluminum, atom, spher, 120-325 mesh, 20 micron 5
And Again:
bismuth trioxide 55
Copper Oxide 25
Magnalium 60 - 80 mesh 20
NC 12
"Safe" flash powder

This burns slowly when not confined but explosively when confined.
This is patented, see: http://www.google.com/patents?
vid=US...hnic+Explosive
Potassium Perchlorate 72.0
Terephthalic Acid 17.3 (common)
Magnalium 10.7
Potassium Perchlorate 73.2
Pentaerythritol 17.9 (probably unobtainium for most pyros)
Aluminum Powder 8.9
Mix in 2% Nitrocellulose Lacquer to form a "damp powder" and allow
to dry
Sparklers
A (T. L. Davis)
T.L. Davis)
Potassium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
48
Finely powdered aluminum
7
Fine iron filings
24
Sulfur
Charcoal dust
-
B (Allen F. Clark)
64
30
9
16
16
C (unknown, from
6
1
12
-
Manganese dioxide
Antimony Sulfide
Dextrine
2
12
16
16
Add sufficient water to make a thick "paint" and dip the 18 gauge iron wires several times,
drying between dips. Be careful of these as they are extremely fast burning in powdered form.
Source: John Reilly on rec.pyrotechnics
Morning Glory Compositions

(make from epoxy, jab a straw into them until full, let set, light) - thanks to Dan T.
Ammonium perchlorate is the oxidizer.

The epoxy is 15-30 minute pot life.
Ti 15% 40-200 mesh
Epoxy 16%
AP 69% 200 micron
Cast Iron 25% (like brake turnings)
Epoxy 14%
AP 61% 200 micron
Strontium Carbonate 9%
Epoxy 16%
AP 75% 200 micron
Crackling Flowers (source Harold Plumber on Passfire)

The secret of success is to prepare the smoldering composition in such a way that it creates a
glowing melt that protects the Ti flakes from reacting with the atmospheric oxygen. When the
heat from the melt ignites the crackling core, the molten star bursts and the hot Ti flakes ignites
in the air, creating the Dandelion ball.
I have no specific formulas for this type of effect, but I do know that smoldering compositions
are easily made from overloading glitter compositions with sulfur!''
Since then, I have met and spoke to a Japanese pyrotechnist who explained the effect in more
detail:
The Japanese call them Crackling Flower Stars to distinguish them from ordinary Crackling
Stars.
The star contains a crackling star core made from either a traditional lead based composition:
46 Lead Tetroxide
16 Lead Dioxide
16 Copper oxide
22 Magnalium (200 mesh)
or a bismuth based composition:
30 Bismuth Oxide
40 Copper Oxide
30 Magnalium
In both cases the crackling core compositions are wetted with NC lacquer and granulated through
a 8 mesh sieve twice. After drying the bigger granules are separated from the finer on a 10 mesh
sieve and the result should be granules about 2-2.5 mm.
The cores are then coated with a special prime:
70 Potassium perchlorate
12 Red Gum
5 Potassium Dichromate
3 Magnalium (200 mesh)
10 Silicon powder (200 mesh)
A titanium spark composition is then added by rolling the crackling cores with the following
composition (NC lacquer is used as binding system):
34 Potassium nitrate
6 Sulphur
5 Antimony trisulphide
15 Pine Charcoal
20 Titanium
20 Resin
The resin was not specified but I guess it is red gum or some synthetic resin of phenolic kind.
Everything above was published in the proceedings of the 8th International Symposium on
Fireworks!
Edit:
I forgot to add that Mr. Sashimura believed that substituting the Ti for coarse MgAl could
produce an even better and louder effect since coarse particles of MgAl burn with a crackling
noise of their own!
Slow Flash Discussion

Slow flash is used for break for shells. Ned G. uses 2-1-1 (potassium nitrate, sulfur, dark
aluminum) dusted onto rice hulls. Depending on the kind of dark aluminum, the slow flash can
be quite fast and might be too harsh. For instance, Eckhart 5413H makes a very hot slow flash
which is almost unusable as a breaking charge except on small shells.
An alternative was offered by Eric H. which tempers the flash and gives good ignitability:
Here is the formula we used for production for many years.
Barium Nitrate 31
Aluminum 19
Sulfur 12
Antimony Trisulfide 7
Robert W. also cited using Ned G.'s formula and Eckhart 5413H but using 1/2 barium nitrate and
1/2 potassium nitrate.
Potassium Hydrogen Terepthalate

To make potassium hydrogen terepthalate: dissolve 6.9 grams of potassium carbonate in water.
Add 16.6g of terephthalic acid and let it react. Filter.
undefined
The Pyro Handbook
Contents:
1.0 Intro
2.0 Safety
2.1-know what your handling
-incopatable materials
-chemical notes
-how to mix ingredients
-tools
3.0 Explosive theory
3.1 explosive classifications
4.0 Chemical equiv. lists
5.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION

5.1-links
5.2-books
6.0 Chemical preparation and sources
6.1 Ammonium chloride
6.2 Ammonium nitrate
6.3 Ammonium perchlorate
6.4 Barium carbonate
6.5 Barium chlorate
6.6 Barium nitrate
6.7 Barium sulfate
6.8 Boric acid
6.9 Calcium sulphate
6.10 Dextrin
6.11 Ethanol
6.12 Iron
6.13 Iron oxide (red)
6.14 Lead tetraoxide
6.15 Manganese dioxide
6.16 Magnalium
6.17 Magnesium
6.18 Methanol
6.19 Parlon
6.20 Potassium benzoate
6.21 Potassium chlorate
6.22 Potassium dichromate
6.23 Potassium perchlorate
6.24 Potassium Picrate
6.25 Polyvinyl chloride
6.26 PICRIC ACID
6.27 Red gum
6.28 Sodium benzoate
6.29 Sodium chlorate
6.30 Sodium nitrate
6.31 Sodium perchlorate
6.32 Strontium carbonate
6.33 Strontium nitrate
6.34 Strontium sulfate
6.35 Sulfuric acid
6.36 Zinc
6.37 Zinc oxide
6.38 acetylene
6.39 calcium carbide
6.40 Perchlorates
6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate
6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate
6.40-3 barium perchlorate
6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate
6.40-5 calcium perchlorate
6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate
6.40-7 copper perchlorate
6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate
6.40-9 iron perchlorate
6.40-10 lead perchlorate
6.40-11 lithium perchlorate
6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate
6.40-13 manganese perchlorate
6.40-14 mercury perchlorate

6.40-16 nickel perchlorate
6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate
6.40-18 potassium perchlorate
6.40-19 silver perchlorate
6.40-20 sodium perchlorate
6.40-21 strontium perchlorate
6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate
6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate
6.40-24 zinc perchlorate
7.0 Low-order explosives
7.1 Acetone Peroxide
7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives)
7.3 FLASH POWDER
7.4 BLACK POWDER
7.5 yellow powder
7.6 NITROCELLULOSE
7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
7.8 PERCHLORATES
8.0 High-order explosives
8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives
8.2 Lead Azide
8.3 Lead Styphnate
8.4 Mercury Fulminate
8.5 Tetracene
8.6 AMATOL
8.7 PETN
8.8 RDX
8.9 COMPOSITION C-1
8.10 COMPOSITION C-2
8.13 Ammonium Picrate
8.14 HMX
8.15 Nitrated Petroleum
8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride
8.17 Tetryl
8.18 Trinitrobenzene
8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT)
8.20 Silver Fulminate
8.21 ANFO
8.22 DNPA
8.23 Nitroguanidine
8.24 Astrolite
8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene
8.26 HMTD
8.27 HNIW
8.28 HNO
8.29 IPN
8.30 MEDINA
8.31 MMAN
8.32 NPN
8.33 PVN
8.34 TeNN
8.35 TNPEN
8.36 TNPht
8.37 Tetranitromethane
8.38 CH-6
8.39 Composition A-5
8.40 COMPOSITION A-3
8.41 COMPOSITION B
8.42 PBXN-5
8.43 MEKP
8.44 Nitrourea
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene
9.0 Bombs
9.1 C02 bomb
9.2 Cherry Bomb
9.3 Dry Ice Bomb
9.4 Sparkler Bomb
9.5 Tennis ball bomb
9.6 Mail Box Bomb
9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb
9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb
9.9 Firebombs(Molotov cocktail)
9.10 Generic Bomb
9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute)
9.12 THERMITE BOMB
9.13 soda bottle bomb
10.0 Pyrotechnics
10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas
10.1-1 Smoke formulas
10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches
10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
10.1-4 Rocket propellants
10.1-5 colored star compositions
10.1-6 smoke star compositions
10.1-7 flash charges
10.1-8 burst charges
10.1-9 whistle mixtures
10.1-10 priming compositions
10.1-11 Other compositions
10.1-12 Sparkler compositions
10.2 FIRECRACKERS
10.2-1 salutes
10.2-2 Bum Style salute
10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs
10.2-4 Impact Salute
10.3 Rockets
10.3-1 Making Rockets
10.3-2 SKYROCKETS
10.4 ROMAN CANDLES
10.5 22 cal. noisemakers
10.6 Class C Aerial Salute
10.7 Go Getters
10.8 Yogart Mine
10.9 Mine Bag
10.10 Making Cut Stars
10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls
10.12 strobe pots
10.13 Aerial Shells
11.0 Fun with fire
11.1-0 Napalm
11.1-1 military napalm
11.1-2 Jolly Rodgers napalm

11.1-3 Napalm II
11.2 Flame throwers
11.3 thermite
11.4 breathing fire
11.5 fire balls
11.5-1 special effect fire balls
11.5-2 petrol fire ball
11.5-3 fire ball from hydrogen
11.5-4 fire ball from butane
11.5-5 fire ball from propane
11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges
11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS
11.6 Greek fire
11.7 Other Incendiaries
11.8 Negetive-X
11.9 how to make alcohol
11.10 Plaster Incendiary
11.11 Flash Paper
12.0 fuses, delays, and timers
12.1 FUSE IGNITION
12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse
12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE
12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE
12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse
12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter
12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
12.1-8 Connecting fuses together
12.2 IMPACT IGNITION
12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter
12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR
12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
12.3-2 Mercury Switches
12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators
12.4 Detonators and boosters
12.5 Firing systems
12.6 DELAYS
12.6-1 Cigarette Delays
12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS
12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS
13.0 Projectiles
13.1 Polish cannon
13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON
13.3 Rocket launcher
13.4 potato guns
13.5 MODEL ROCKETS
13.6 Home-brew blast cannon
14.0 The End.
1.0 Intro
It is assumed by the author that you would not actually use this
information as a guide for new activities. If you dont know what you are
doing, you could make a mistake and DIE. Some of the procedures are general
ways of making a specific devise or chemical composition, and lack the exact
details that inexperienced people need to safely make a desired material.
Also, there may be one or two references to terrorists and procedures
that they may use in a few sections; I HATE terrorists, and do not in any way
promote terrorism! (I just didnt feel like to go through the entire book and
delete every sentence containing the word terrorist.)
If you are wanting to carry out a death wish, and are going to attempt
some of these procedures, then READ THE SAFETY SECTION FIRST(if you want a
better chance of living)! Dont be a dumb-ass, and do it near people or
houses, and hurt someone and/or yourself! Dont be a Kewl.
-The Author
2.0 SAFETY--HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (READ THIS!)

It is obvious that injury or death should be avoided at all costs. While no
safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of
caution.
1
Never smoke anywhere near
chemicals or compositions.
Be sure you are familiar with all the properties of the compositions you
work with. Thoroughly test new compositions for sensitivity, stability,
compatibility with other mixtures etc, until you are absolutely sure
that the mixture is ok to use in your application and method of
construction. Find out as much as you can about other peoples
experiences with a particular mixture.
Use only non-sparking tools. Make your tools from either: wood, paper,
aluminum, lead or brass. Other metals and materials may spark
(especially steel).
Paper bags or wooden containers are good to use for storing mixed
compositions. Store compositions dry and cool. Avoid plastics, glass and
metal. Avoid storing compositions in general. Make as much as you will
need in the near future and keep no more in stock than necessary.
Never have large amounts of composition near you. If you must use larger
amounts of composition in multiple items, store the bulk of composition
in a safe place and bring only small amounts to your working place.
Finished items should also be brought to a safe place immediately.
Prevent contamination of chemicals and mixtures. Have separate tools for

every type of mixture (i.e. black powder-like mixtures, chlorates,
perchlorates, etc) and clean them well with hot water and/or alcohol
after use. It is no luxury either to have different sets of clothing for

working with different mixtures. Wash them every time after use (dust
collects in the clothing). If you have the possibility, have separate
rooms or better yet: separate buildings for working with different types
of mixtures/chemicals.
7
Keep a clean working place. Fine dust easily spreads all over your
working place. Keep chemicals in closed cabinets or in a separate
building. Mixtures should not be kept in the working place anyway (see
rules 4 and 5).
Provide adequate ventilation. This is especially important when working

with volatile solvents or (poisonous, flammable) powdered chemicals. Not
only can you get yourself poisoned, vapor or dust may also ignite.
Be aware of static electricity buildup. Ground your working table.

Monitor humidity and keep it above 60% as a rule of thumb. This can be
especially important in winter when preparing for new years eve (on the
Northern Hemisphere at least). Touch a grounded surface before you place
things on it. Touch other people before handing over compositions or
finished items. Wear cotton clothing, avoid synthetics (do not be
tempted to wear fleece clothing if your working place is cold in
winter). Simple things such as unscrewing a (plastic) bottle, unwinding
some tape or even moving your arm may accumulate enough charge on your
body to ignite a sensitive composition. The risk of static electricity
is often underestimated or even completely ignored by beginning amateurs
in pyro, while it is actually one of the major causes of accidents in
both commercial/industrial and amateur pyro setups.
10 Wear proper protective clothing. A face shield, dust mask, heavy gloves
and a leather apron are minimal. Wear cotton clothing. Hearing
protection can be good but it also makes it harder to hear other
people's warnings.
11 Provide safety screens between you and compositions, especially when
pressing, ramming, sieving or in other ways causing
frictions/shocks/pressure etc.
12 Be prepared for the worst. Have a plan for when something should go
wrong. Have a fire extinguisher and plenty of water ready. Think
beforehand of what might happen and how you could minimize the damage.
Know how to treat burns. Inform someone else so he/she can help in case
of an accident. Have a fast escape route from your working place.
13 Test a device well before showing it to an audience. Inform any audience
well of what can happen.
2.1-Know What You're Handling:

[This is a publication of the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association. It
may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission or compensation
providing:]
[Editors note: I have received several letters offering comments and/or
corrections on this document. Since I am not the author of the document, and
do not have the expertise to judge these comments, I have put them as
received on another page]
1
1) credit is given to the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association
2) it is distributed free. If you plan to make a buck on it, we want a

piece of it!!
We believe that the information contained herein is true and correct,

however it is offered only as a guide and not to be used as a guarantee. We
cannot assume responsibility nor liability for the use or misuse of the
information contained herein.
The following is a compilation of information gathered over the years from
various research and sources too numerous to remember.
Within these pages you will find descriptions of almost 150 chemicals
that are used in Fireworks, Explosives, Rocket Fuels or are explosives in
themselves. This list is not complete and is not intended to be complete. All
of the uses are not given and only the related purposes of each are stated.
Whenever possible we explain which grades are thought to be the best,
the chemical formula, melting temperature, decomposition temperature, form
(liquid, powder, crystal, etc.), if it will explode, if it is poisonous and
its usage. Some of these chemicals cannot be purchased and are offered as a
guide for information purposes only.
CHEMICALS HAVE A CERTAIN PURPOSE TO PERFORM IN FIREWORKS AND CAN BE CLASSIFIED

INTO FOUR GROUPS:
GROUP I.
These chemicals are the chemicals which produce the oxygen and are
called oxidizers.
GROUP II.
Those which combine with the oxidizers are called reducers.
GROUP III.
These are the chemicals which regulate the rate of burning and help to
produce the desired effect.
GROUP IV.
This group of chemicals are those which impart color to the flame.
PLEASE NOTE: ALL REFERENCES TO TEMPERATURE ARE IN DEGREES FARENHEIT.
SAFETY INCOMPATIBLE MATERIALS:
Certain combinations of chemicals are remarkable explosive, poisonous or

hazardous in some other way, and these are generally avoided as a matter of
course. There are many others that are perhaps equally dangerous but do not
come to mind as readily. The following list, although not complete, may serve
as a memory refresher. Stop and think for a moment before starting any work,
especially if one hazardous chemical is involved.
DO NOT CONTACT:
Alkali metals, such as calcium, potassium and sodium with water, carbon
dioxide, carbon tetrachloride, and other chlorinated hydrocarbons.
Acetic Acid with chromic acid, nitric acid, hydroxyl-containing compounds,
ethylene glycol, perchloric acid, peroxides and permanganates.
Acetone with concentrated sulfuric and nitric acid mixtures.
Ammonia, Anhydrous with mercury, halogens, calcium hypochlorite or hydrogen
fluoride.
Ammonium Nitrate with acids, metal powders, flammable fluids, chlorates,
nitrates, sulphur and finely divided organics or other combustibles.
Aniline with nitric acid, hydrogen peroxide or other strong oxidizing agents.
Bromine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, butane, hydrogen, sodium carbide,
turpentine or finely divided metals.
Chlorates with ammonium salts, acids, metal powders, sulfur, carbon, finely
divided organics or other combustibles.
Chromic Acid with acetic acid, naphthalene, camphor, alcohol, glycerine,
turpentine and other flammable liquids.
Chlorine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, benzene and other petroleum
fractions, hydrogen, sodium carbides, turpentine and finely divided powdered
metals.
Cyanides with acids.
Hydrogen Peroxide with copper, chromium, iron, most metals or their respective
salts, flammable fluids and other combustible materials, aniline and
nitromethane.
Hydrogen Sulfide with nitric acid, oxidizing gases.
Hydrocarbons, generally, with fluorine, chlorine, bromine, chromic acid or
sodium peroxide.
Iodine with acetylene or ammonia
Mercury with acetylene, fulminic acid, hydrogen.
Nitric acid with acetic, chromic and hydrocyanic acids, aniline, carbon,
hydrogen sulfide, flammable fluids or gases and substances which are readily
nitrated.
Oxygen with oils, grease, hydrogen, flammable liquids, solids and gases.
Oxalic Acid with silver or mercury.
Perchloric Acid with acetic anhydride, bismuth and its alloys, alcohol, paper,
wood and other organic materials.
Phosphorous Pentoxide with water
Sodium Peroxide with any oxidizable substances, for instance: methanol,
glacial acetic acid, acetic anhydride, benzaldehyde, carbon disulfide,
glycerine, ethylene glycol, ethyl acetate, furfural, etc.
Sulfuric Acid with chlorates, perchlorates, permanganates and water.
Some combinations of chemicals lead to especially sensitive or unstable

mixtures. There are many more of such incompatible chemicals/mixtures than
listed here but these are some of the more commonly encountered types:
1
Chlorates and sulfur. Mixtures containing both are not only very
sensitive to friction and shock but are also known to ignite
spontaneously. The sulfur reacts with water and air to form trace
amounts of sulfuric acid. This will react with chlorates to form
chlorine dioxide, a yellow explosive gas that will ignite most flammable
materials upon contact. Addition of small amounts of barium or strontium
carbonate to chlorate based compositions is sometimes done to prevent
buildup of acid, even in compositions without sulfur. Many older texts
on pyrotechnics describe the use of chlorate/sulfur based compositions.
Today, many alternative and much safer compositions are available and
there is therefore no excuse for the use of chlorate/sulfur mixtures.
This also means chlorate based compositions cannot be used in items that
also contain sulfur based mixtures. For example: chlorate based stars
cannot be primed with black powder. Nor can a H3 burst charge be used
with black powder primed stars (or stars containing sulfur).
Chlorates and ammonium compounds. Mixing these will allow ammonium

chlorate to form in a double decomposition reaction that takes place in
solution (moisture speeds up the process). Ammonium chlorate is a highly
instable explosive compound. It decomposes over time producing chlorine
dioxide gas (see chlorates and sulfur). Mixtures are likely to
spontaneously ignite upon storage or may explode for no apparent reason.
An exception seems to be the use of ammonium chloride and potassium
chlorate in some smoke compositions. According to Shimizu this
combination is safe due to the lower solubility of potassium chlorate
(compared to ammonium chlorate). I personally would still use these
mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it seems inevitable
that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The lower
solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a
double decomposition reaction but not the -only- product.
Chlorates with metals and nitrates. These mixtures show the same
problems as chlorate/ammonium compound mixtures. The reason is that
nitrates can be reduced by most metals used in pyrotechnics to ammonium.
The reaction rate of this reaction is increased by presence of water.
Over time (for example when drying) these mixtures may spontaneously
ignite or become extremely sensitive. The fact that ammonium forms in a
relatively slow reaction is treacherous. These mixtures are referred to
as 'death mixes' by some.
Aluminum and nitrates. Mixtures of these compounds sometimes

spontaneously ignite, especially when moist. The mechanism is assumed to
be as follows: the aluminum reduces some of the nitrate to ammonium,
simultaneously forming hydroxyl ions. The aluminum then reacts with the
alkaline products in a very exothermic reaction leading to spontaneous
heating up of the mixture. This can eventually lead to ignition. The
reactions take place in solution and therefore moisture speeds up the
reaction. The process is usually accompanied by the smell of ammonia.
Some types of aluminum are more problematic than others. Stearin coated
aluminum is generally safer to use. The whole process can be prevented
in many cases by the addition of 1 to 2 percent of boric acid. This will
neutralise the alkaline products. It is best to bind such compositions
with non-aquaous binder/solvent systems such as red gum/ethanol. Since
aluminum/nitrate mixtures are extensively used it is important to be
aware of this problem which is why the combination is listed here.
Flash Powder:
ALL FLASH POWDERS ARE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS. THEY WILL IGNITE FROM FRICTION,
IMPACT, OR FLAME.
While it is assumed that the individual who is dispensing these materials is
responsible and knowledgeable as to their use, the following pointers will
prove helpful:
1
Always use electrical ignition, either a commercial squib or Nichrome

hot wire. The use of a squib is preferred because it provides a more
positive ignition.
Always use an approved flash pot, made from transite or other similar
material.
Always use the minimum amount of powder required to achieve the desired
effect. In general, one quarter of a teaspoon will be sufficient.
Always have only one person who is responsible for dispensing and
storing the flash powders.
Never pour the powder directly from the bottle into the flash pot.
Measure the correct amount using a non-sparking metal, not plastic,
spoon.
Never confine or compact the powder in any way. To do so may lead to a

violent explosion.
Never return unused powder to the original bottle.
Never mix two different colors of flash powder. In many cases, the
chemicals in the two materials are incompatible with each other.
Never pour flash powder from its plastic bottle onto plastic film or
into another plastic container. The material is packed in plastic to
reduce the danger of serious injury in case the powder should ignite in
the bottle.
10 Be extra careful on dry or low humidity days, when the chance of

ignition by static electricity is high.
Chemical Notes:
Aluminum Al
An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be
purchased as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to
superpure (99.9%) can be used. The danger is from inhaling the dust and
explosive room condition if too much dust goes into the air.
Aluminum Chloride AlCl3
This chemical must not come in contact with the skin as severe burns can
result. The yellowish-white crystals or powder have a strong attraction
for water. Purchase only in the anhydrous grade.
Amber
This is a fossil resin of vegetable origin and is yellowish- brown in

color. It is used in fireworks to a small extent.
Ammonium Bichromate and Dichromate (NH4)2Cr2O7

A mild poison used in the manufacture of tabletop volcanoes (sometimes
called Vesuvius Fire). It is available as orange crystals in a technical
grade. Also used in smoke formulas.
Ammonium Chloride NH4NO3
The common name is Sal Ammoniac. Comes as colorless crystals or a white
powder. The technical grade is used to manufacture safety explosives and
smokes.
Ammonium Oxalate NH4C2O4
This compound takes the form of colorless, poisonous, crystals. The
technical grade is suitable for the manufacture of safety explosives.
Ammonium Perchlorate (NH4ClO4)
This chemical can be made to explode by either heat or shock. Besides
exploding in itself, it is used to manufacture other explosives.
Ammonium Permanganate NH4MnO4
A moderate explosive which can be detonated by either heat or shock.
Ammonium Picrate (NH4C6H2N3O7)
These bright orange crystals are used in armor piercing shells and
fireworks. If heated to 300 degrees it will explode or it can be set off
by shock. If you do any work with this chemical, it is advisable to keep
it wet.
Aniline Dyes
These are used in smoke powder formulas. They are organic coal tar
derivatives. Available in many different colors.
Aniline Green C23H25CIN2
Also known as Malachite Green. One of the many Aniline dyes. The green
crystals are used in smoke formulas.
Anthracene
A coal tar derivative used as a source of dyestuff and for colored
smokes. Available as colorless crystals which melt at 217 degrees.
Antimony Sb
Another name for this metal element is Antimony Regulus. Purchase the
black powder in 99% purity. Not the yellow variety. It is used in
pyrotechnics.
Antimony Fulminate
One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds related to Mercury
Fulminate.
Antimony Potassium Tartrate
Also known under the name of Tartar Emetic. These poisonous,
transparent, odorless crystals (or white powder) are used to make
Antimony Fulminate. The moisture that is present can be driven off by
heating to 100 degrees. Do not exceed this temperature or the chemical
will decompose.
Antimony Sulfide (Sb2S3)
This has usefulness in sharpening the report of firecrackers, salutes,
etc. or to add color to a fire. The technical black powder is suitable.
Avoid contact with the skin; dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Aqua Regia
A strong acid containing 1 part concentrated Nitric Acid and 3 parts
concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. Store in a well closed glass bottle in a
dark place. This acid will attack all metals, including gold and
platinum. It is used in making some explosives.
Arsenic Sulfide, Red
The common name is Realgar and it is also known as Red Arsenic. Purchase
the technical grade, which is available as a poisonous orange-red
powder. It is used in fireworks to impart color to the flame.
Arsenic Sulfide,Yellow (As2S3)
This Chemical is just as poisonous as its red brother and is also used
in fireworks, somewhat. The common name is Kings Gold.
Arsenious Oxide (As2O)3
A white, highly poisonous powder used in fireworks. It is also known as
Arsenious Trioxide, Arsenic Oxide and Arsenous Acid. Its uses are
similar to Paris Green.
Asphaltum
A black bituminous substance, best described as powdered tar.
Auramine Hydrochloride
Also known as Auramine. It is used in smoke formulas. Available as
yellow flakes or powder, which readily dissolves in alcohol.
Auramine
A certified Biological stain used in smoke cartridges.
Barium Carbonate BaCO3
This is a poisonous salt of Barium, which decomposes at a fairly high
temperature, 1300 degrees. It is available as a fine white powder in the
technical grade. It is used in fireworks as a color imparter.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO3)2H2O
Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts.
It is used in fireworks, both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is
as powerful as Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same
care. Melting point is 414 degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO3)2

The uses and precautions are the same as above with a comparison equal
to Potassium Nitrate instead of the Chlorate. It melts at 500 degrees.
Bismuth Fulminate
One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds derived from Fulminic
Acid.
Brass
This is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Some also contain a small

percentage of Tin. The commercial grade is suitable in powdered form. It
is used in some fireworks formulas.
Calcium Carbide CaCO3

These grayish, irregular lumps are normally packed in waterproof and
airtight metal containers. It is used in toy cannons. Mixed with water
it forms Acetylene Gas (EXPLOSIVE).
Calcium Carbonate CaCO3
This occurs as the mineral Calcite. It is used for Phosphorous
Torpedoes, but does not have any dangerous properties in itself. Also as
an acid absorber in fireworks.
Calcium Fluoride CaF2
This finds its use in a smokeless firework mixture and is not used
elsewhere. It is a white powder, also known as Fluorspar.
Calcium Phosphide Ca3P2
This compound, which comes as gray lumps, must be kept dry. Upon contact
with water it will form the flammable gas, Phosphine. It is used in
signal fires.
Camphor OC10H16
A ketone found in the wood of the Camphor tree, native to Taiwan and a
few of our states. For the best results, buy the granulated, technical
grade. Used in explosives and fireworks.
Castor Oil
The common drug store variety is used in some powders to reduce the
sensitiveness and to waterproof the mixture.
Charcoal C
A form of the element, Carbon, it is used in fireworks and explosives as
a reducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust up to a coarse powder.
The softwood variety is best and it should be black, not brown.
Chrysoidine
An organic dye available as a red-brown powder. It is used in smoke
formulas.
Clay
This can be purchased in the powdered form. It is used dry for chokes,
nozzles and sealing firework cases. You can mix it with water to form
paste if so desired.
Confectioners Sugar
Commonly called powdered sugar, it can be purchased at your local food

store. The fineness is graded by the symbol XXXX. It is used in
explosives.
Copper Cu
As any pure metal used in fireworks, this must also be in a powdered
state. It is reddish in color, in fact, it is the only element to be
found in nature having that color.
Copper Acetoarsenite (Cu)3As2O3Cu(C2H3O2)2
The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called Kings Green
or Vienna Green. It is readily available as an insecticide or as a
technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in
fireworks to add color.
Copper Arsenate CuHAsO3
A fine, light green, poisonous powder. It is used in the technical grade
for fireworks.
Copper Carbonate CuCO3.Cu(OH)2
Also known as Cupric Carbonate or Artificial Malachite. It is a green
powder used in fireworks.
Copper Chlorate Cu(ClO3)2.6H2O
Or, technically, Cupric Chlorate. A poison used in fireworks as an
oxidizer and to add color.
Copper Chloride CuCl2
An oxidizer and color imparter used in fireworks. Purchase the brownishyellow technical grade. This is a poisonous compound.
Copper Nitrate Cu(NO3)2.3H2O
Or Cupric Nitrate. These blue crystals absorb water, as you can see from
the formula. It is used in fireworks.
Copper Oxide CuO
When ordering be sure to specify the black powder. It is also available
in red. The technical grade will serve the purpose for fireworks.
Copper Oxychloride
A green powder used to impart oxygen and color especially to blue star
formulas. It is a poison and the dust should not be inhaled.
Copper Sulfate CuSO4.5H2O
Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue
crystals or blue powder. It can be purchased in some drugstores. Used in
fireworks for blue stars.
Copper Sulfide CuS
As are the other copper salts, this is also used in fireworks to add
color. The technical grade is suitable and is black in color. You can
make your own by passing Hydrogen Sulfide into a Copper salt.
Decaborane B10H14
This chemical is classed as a flammable solid and is used for rocket
fuels. It will remain stable indefinitely at room temperature.
Diazoacetic Ester C4H6N2O2

A very severe explosive in the form of a yellow oil. It will explode on
contact with Sulfuric acid or when heated. Very volatile and explosive.
Diazoaminobenzene C6H5N:N.NH.C6H5
These golden yellow crystals will explode when heated to 150 degrees.
P-Diazobenzeneslfonic Acid C6H4NSO3N
Another severe explosive. It can be exploded by rubbing the white paste
or powder, or by heating.
Diazodimitrophenol HOC6H3(NO2)2N(:N)
An organic explosive in the same group as the above compound. Also very
sensitive to shock or heat.
Diazomethane CH2N2
Also known as Azimethylene. This yellow gas is also in the above group
and can be exploded by heat or shock.
Dinitrotoulene
Known as DNT for short. These yellow crystals are used in the
manufacture of other explosives.
Ethyl Alcohol
This alcohol is the only one that is useful for fireworks. It should be
about 95% pure. It is poisonous because of the impurities. It is clear,
like water, and also a very flammable liquid.
Fluorine Perchlorate FClO4
A very sensitive colorless gas which will explode on the slightest
contact with a rough surface. It can also be detonated by heating to 168
degrees. Avoid all contact with this gas, as even a trace of it will
attack the lungs.
Gallic Acid C7H6O5.H2O
A white or pale fawn colored powder used in fireworks to make whistles.
When mixed with some chlorates, Permanganates or Silver salts, it may
explode.
Glycerol C3H8O3
Commonly known as Glycerin. It is obtained from oils and fats as a byproduct when making soaps. It is a sweet warm tasting syrupy liquid
which is used in several explosives. Contact with Chromium Trionide or
potassium Permanganate may cause an explosion.
Gold Explosive
A dark brown powder which explodes when heated or rubbed. Upon
exploding, it yields Gold, Nitrogen and Ammonia. The exact composition
is unknown because it is too explosive to be dried.
Guanidine Nitrate CH5N3.HNO3
Guanidine is found in turnip juice, rice hulls and earthworms. It is
used in the preparation of this chemical, or, it can be made from
Ammonium Nitrate and Dicyanodiamide. To be of any value, it should be
95% pure. Guanidine Nitrate is not explosive itself, but is used in the
manufacture of explosives. It is a white powder which melts at 210

degrees.
Gum Arabic
A dried, gummy, exudate from tropical trees. It is available as flakes,
fragments and powder. It is used as a binder in firework formulas.
Hexachlorethane CCl3.CCl3
Also known as Carbon Hexachloride, this chemical is used in smoke
formulas It can be obtained in either powder or crystals.
Indigo
A dark blue crystalline powder which is a commercial dye. You can

purchase either the technical or pure grade for smokes.
Iodine
Heavy grayish metallic looking crystals or flakes. Poisonous. Purchase
the U.S.P. grade. It is being used in making explosives.
Iron Fe
The granular powder (at least 99% pure) is needed for several firework
pieces. It is not a dangerous element but will rust very easily, making
it useless.
Iron Oxide FeO These black crystals are used in thermite mixtures. When
ordering, it may be listed as Ferrous Oxide. Black.
Kieselguhr
This is a whitish powder used in dynamites. It is a siliceous earth,
consisting mainly of diatoms. A good grade will absorb about four times
its own weight.
Lactose
Also called milk sugar. This white powder has a sweet taste. The crude
grade will work for smoke formulas.
Lampblack
This is another name for the element, carbon(pencil lead). It is a
finely powdered black dust, resulting from the burning of crude oils. It
is used for special effects in fireworks.
Lead Azide PbN6
This is a poisonous white powder which explodes by heating to 350
degrees or by concussion. The main usage is in primers. It can be made
from Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate.
Lead Bromate Pb(Bro3)2.H2O
Poisonous, colorless crystals. Pure Lead Bromate is not explosive unless
it is made from precipitated Lead Acetate with an alkali bromate. Made
in this manner, it can be exploded by rubbing or striking.
Lead Chloride PbCl2
It is available as a white crystalline, poisonous powder which melts at
501 degrees. It is used in fireworks.
Lead Dioxide PbO2
Also known as Brown Lead Oxide, this dark brown powder is used as an
oxidizer in matches and fireworks. Poisonous.
Lead Nitrate Pb(NO3)2
Available as white or colorless crystals in the technical grade. The
uses include matches and explosives. Poisonous.
Lead Oxide Pb3O4
Also known as Red Lead or Lead Tetroxide. A 95% purity is desired for
matches. Also poisonous.
Linseed Oil
Available in many forms: Brown, boiled, raw and refined. All are made
from the seed of the flax plant. The cheapest form is suitable for
fireworks. Purchase from a paint store.
Lithium Chloride LiCl
The technical grade is sometimes used to add color to fireworks
compositions. Available as a white powder.
Manganese Dioxide MnO2
Used in pyrotechnic mixtures, matches and match box friction surfaces.
Available as a technical grade, black powder. This oxidizer decomposes
at 535 degrees.
Magnesium Mg
This metal is used in a powdered state for brilliancy in flares and will
even burn vigorously underwater.
Mercuric Chloride HgCl2
A white, poisonous powder. Also known as Corrosive Sublimate. It can be
made by subliming Mercuric Sulfate with ordinary table salt and then
purified by recrystallization. The U.S.P. grade is used for some
firework compositions.
Mercuric Oxide HgO
Available in two forms; red and yellow. Both forms give the same
oxidizing effects in fireworks. The technical grade is suitable.. All
forms are poisonous.
Mercuric Oxycyanide HgO.Hg(CN)2
In the pure state it is a violent poison which will explode when touched
by flame or friction.
Mercuric Thiocyanate Hg(SCN)2
A poisonous, white odorless powder used in the making of Pharaoh"s
Serpents. Use the technical grade.
Mercurous Chloride HgCl
Also known as Calomel or Mercuric Monochloride. This white, nonpoisonous powder will brighten an otherwise dull colored mixture.
Sometimes it is replaced by PVC or Hexachlorobenzene and even Antimony
Sulfide, for the same purpose. Note that it is non poisonous only when
it is 100% pure. Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride,
which is poisonous in any form.
Mercury Fulminate Hg(ONC)2.H2O

A crystalline compound used in primers, percussion caps, blasting caps
and other detonators. Explodes very easily from heat or shock.
Methylene Blue C16H18N3SCl
This dark green powder is used for smokes in the technical grade. Also
called Methylthionine Chloride.
Mineral Jelly
Also known as Vaseline, Petrolatum or Petroleum Jelly. This acts as a
stabilizer in fireworks and explosives.
Naphthalene
This is a tar product that you may know better as Moth Flakes or moth
balls. Only the 100% pure form should be used in making smoke powders.
The melting point is 100 degrees.
Nitric Acid HNO3
Also known as Aqua Fortis. It is a clear, colorless corrosive liquid,
which fumes in moist air. It can react violently with organic matter
such as Charcoal, Alcohol or Turpentine and consequently must be handled
Very carefully. It is available in three forms: White fuming, Red Fuming
and Concentrated (70 to 71%). The latter, with a specific gravity of
1.42, is the proper grade to buy. Whatever grade, avoid contact with the
fumes or the liquid. Contact with the skin will cause it to burn and
turn yellow. It is used to manufacture many explosives.
Nitroglycerin C3H5N3O9
A liquid with a sweet burning taste, but do not taste it or it will
produce a violent headache or acute poisoning. It can be made to explode
by rapid heating or percussion. It is used as an explosive and also to
make other explosives.
Nitroguanidine H2NC(NH)NHNO2
A yellow solid made by dissolving Fuanidine in concentrated Sulfuric
Acid and then diluting with water. Dangerous Explosive.
Nitromethane CH3NO2
An oily, poisonous liquid, which is used as rocket fuel.
Oil of Spike
This is a volatile oil obtained from the leaves of certain trees. Keep
this colorless (or pale yellow) liquid well closed and away from light.
It is used in some fireworks.
Paraffin
This is a white or transparent wax. It is normally sold in a solid
block. You can use it to make the required powder.
Paranitroanaline Red (H2NC6H4)3COH
A dye used in smoke formulas. It dissolves in alcohol and will melt at
139 degrees. It is also known as P-Aminophenyl.
Pentaerythritol Tetranitrate C5H8N4O12
A high explosive known as PRTN. Besides being an explosive itself it is
used in a detonating fuse called Primacord.
Perchloryl Fluoride ClFO3

A gas under normal air pressure. When brought in contact with alcohol,
explosions have resulted.
Phosphorus P
This element comes in three forms, with three different ways of
reacting. They resemble each other in name only. Red Phosphorous is the
only suitable form for fireworks and matches. It is a non-poisonous
violet-red powder. It will ignite at 260 degrees. When making a formula
containing Phosphorous, be sure to work with it in a WET STATE. This is
a most dangerous chemical to work with and should be handled only by the
most experienced. Oxidizers have been known to detonate violently
without warning when mixed with Red Phosphorous.
Phosphorous Pentasulfide
Also known as Phosphoric Sulfide. These light yellow crystals are used
in matches.
Phosphorus Trisulfide P2S3
This chemical can catch fire from the moisture that is present in air,
therefore the container should be kept tightly capped. The technical
grade, purchased as grayish-yellow masses, is used in making matches.
Picric Acid
This is used to bring out and improve the tone of colors in various
fireworks. It is also used to make other chemicals that are used in
fireworks and explosives. Picric Acid can explode from heat or shock. It
is interesting to note what it is called in other countries: Britain Lyddite; France - Melinite; Japan - Shimose.
Plaster of Paris
This is a white powder, composed mostly of Calcium Sulfate. It is used,
by mixing with water, for end plugs in fireworks and also in some
formulas.
Potassium K
A soft silvery metal element. It will react vigorously with water and
several acids. It is not used directly except for some experiments.
Potassium Chlorate KClO3
This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it
was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the
door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that
is used as an oxidizer. Never ram a mixture containing Potassium
Chlorate. Do not store mixtures which contain this chemical for any
great length of time, as they may explode spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K2CR2O7
Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in
fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Also
used in smokes.
Potassium Ferrocyanide K4Fe(CN)6.3H2O
Lemon yellow crystals or powder which will decompose at high
temperatures. It is used in the manufacture of explosives.
Potassium Nitrate KNO3

Commonly called Saltpeter; this chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes
at 400 degrees. It is well known as a component in gunpowder and is also
used in other firework pieces. Available as a white powder.
Potassium Perchlorate KClO4
Much more stable than its Chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or
slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to
make the formula safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to
make up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.
Potassium Picrate C6H2KN3O7
A salt of Picric Acid, this chemical comes in yellow, reddish or
greenish crystals. It will explode when struck or heated. It is used in
fireworks.
Potassium Thiocyanate KCNS
Colorless or white crystals which are used to make the Pharaoh's
Serpent. The commercial grade or pure grade is suitable.
n-Propyl Nitrate C3H7NC2
Prepared from Silver Nitrate and n-Propyl Bromide and is used as a jet
propellant.
Red Gum
Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many firework
formulas. Red gum is obtained from the bark of trees.
Rhodamine B
A basic fluorescent organic pigment also known as Rhodamine Red.
Available in green or red crystals or powder. It is used in smoke
formulas.
Shellac
An organic rosin made from the secretion of insects which live in India.
The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other
gums. The common mixture of Shellac and Alcohol sold in hardware stores
should be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in
color.
Silver Fulminate AgONC
A crystalline salt similar to Mercury Fulminate but more sensitive. In
fact, too sensitive for commercial blasting. It is used for toy
torpedoes and poppers.
Silver Oxide Ag2O
Dark brown, odorless powder. It is potentially explosive and becomes
increasingly more so with time. Keep away from Ammonia and combustible
solvents. The technical grade, which is about 92% pure, is suitable.
Sodium Aluminum Fluoride Na3AlF6
Also known as mineral, Cryolite. It is used in fireworks in the white
powdered form.
Sodium Bicarbonate NaHCO3
When a formula calls for this chemical, you can use Baking Soda (NOT
Baking Powder). It is a white, non-poisonous powder.
Sodium Carbonate NaCO3
This white powder is used in fireworks, but not to any great extent. The
anhydrous grade is best.
Sodium Chlorate NaClO3
An oxidizer similar to Potassium Chlorate, although not as powerful and
also with the disadvantage of absorbing water. Decomposes at 325
degrees.
Sodium Chloride NaCl
This is used in fireworks. You can use the common form, table salt (or
rock salt if made into a powder).
Sodium Nitrate NaNO3
Also known as Chile Saltpeter; very similar to Saltpeter, (Potassium
Nitrate). It is used where large amounts of powder are needed in
fireworks and explosives. It will absorb water as do other sodium salts.
Sodium Oxalate Na2C2O4
This is not a strong poison, but is poisonous, and you should not come
in contact with it or breathe the dust for any prolonged period. The
technical grade is best for making yellow fires.
Sodium Perchlorate NaClO4H2O
This chemical is used in fireworks and explosives. It is very similar to
Potassium Perchlorate with the exception that it will absorb water.
Sodium Peroxide Na2O2
A yellowish-white powder. It can explode or ignite in contact with
organic substances.
Sodium Picrate
Very similar to Potassium Picrate and should be handled with the same
precautions. It is also known under the name of Sodium
Trinitrophenolate.
Sodium Silicate Na2SlO3.9H2O
This chemical, commonly called water glass, is used as a fireproof glue.
It is available in syrupy solution and can be thinned with water if
necessary. When dry it resembles glass, hence the name. It can, when
desired, be thickened with calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, powdered
silica, or fiberglass (chopped) if extra strength is desired.
Stearin
Colorless, odorless, tasteless, soapy crystal or powder. Sometimes
referred to as Stearic Acid. Purchase the technical grade, powder. It
can often take the place of Sulphur and Charcoal in fireworks.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO3
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for
adding a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder in a pure,
technical or natural state.
Strontium Chloride SrCl2.6H2O

A colorless or white granulated chemical used in pyrotechnics. It will
absorb water and is not used often.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO3)2
By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and
fires. Available in the technical powder grade. An oxidizer with 45%
oxygen and absorbs water.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO4
This does not absorb water as quickly as nitrate and is used when
storage is necessary. In its natural state it is known as Celestine,
which compares to grades used in fireworks.
Sulphur (Sulfur) S
For example type II burns at 250 degrees giving off choking fumes.
Purchase good pyro grades low in acid. Used in many types of fireworks
and explosives.
Sulfuric Acid H2SO4
Also called Oil of Vitriol, it is a clear liquid with the consistency of
a thin syrup. Bottles should be kept tightly closed as it is a very
corrosive and dangerous chemical. It has a great affinity for water and
will absorb it from any source. The effect can be a charred surface or
fire. The grade used in explosives is 93-98%.
Sulfur Trioxide SO3
This powder will combine with water with explosive violence to form
Sulfuric Acid. If brought in contact with wood flour and a drop of water
is added, a fire will start. It is used to make some explosives.
Trinitrotoluene (NO2)3C6H2CH3
Commonly known as TNT. The poisonous crystals are colorless in the pure
state. It is more powerful and expensive than Dynamite. If not confined
it will burn like dynamite. Used as a high explosive and to make others.
Wood Flour
This is merely another name for sawdust or wood meal. It is used in
fireworks and explosives.
Zinc Zn
Of all the forms, only the dust is suitable in the technical or high
purity grade. It is a gray powder used in star mixtures and for fuel in
model rockets.
Zinc Borate 3ZnO.2B2O3
A white amorphous powder used in making smoke formulas. A relatively
safe compound to handle.
Zinc Carbonate ZnCO3
Another white Zinc compound used in some smoke formulas. Also a safe
compound to handle.
Zinc Oxide ZnO
Sometimes called Flowers of Zinc. This is a white or yellowish powder

used in some firework formulas. It has also found use as a thickening
agent in water glass when a stronger pyro paste is desired.
HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS:

The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the
small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:
Ingredients:
1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that
does not use staples)
The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.
-Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in
two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet.
-Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders
to roll towards the middle of the sheet.
-By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in
the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from
either of the loose ends.
-Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it
must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely)
and store away from people, houses, and valuable items.
Tools:
As with many hobbies, pyrotechnics requires some tools. For what I do, it's
usually all pretty simple stuff. When you get into real pyrotechnics, you need
things like ball mills, presses, and star rollers. For some info on those
things, click here and here.
Scales:
A good scale is an absolute must for real pyrotechnics. When measuring
compositions, all measurements are done by weight, so you need an accurate
scale. Postal scales that use a spring are crap and are not suitable for
accurate measurements. You need either a digital scale or a tripe beam
balance.
My digital scale:
I didn't shop around when I bought my scale, so I got ripped off! I bought the
"MX-200 Pyro Scale" for $90 and later found it on eBay for much less.
There are many different places that sell scales, and you should get one with
0.1g accuracy.
A few sites that sell scales (there are many more):
Cyberscale
eBay is definitely worth a look, you can get great deals sometimes!
eXactaDigital
Balances.com
Pyrotek has scales, along with a lot of other stuff.
Ball mills:
Ball mills are
needed to make
either buy one
ball mills are
very important to the serious pyrotechnician because they are

good blackpowder at home and to mill powders finely. You can
or make one and rock tumblers often work just as well (some
just rock tumblers with a different name).
Lortone rock tumbler sold by United Nuclear as a ball mill:
UN ball mills and milling media.

The "ball mills" UN sells are Lortone rock/jewelry tumblers, but from what
I've heard, they work very well. The Lortone website has them listed much
cheaper than UN sells them, so you should check it out. eBay is also a place
to find them, but after shipping it might not be any cheaper.
Making a bal mill can be a good project if you like building things, and it
will be a lot cheaper than buying one. A few pages on making your own:
Dan Williams ball mill

Wouter Visser's ball mill
Mortar & Pestle:

A mortar and pestle are very useful for grinding up chemicals into powder. For
larger amounts or for making black powder you will obviously want a ball mill,
but for small amounts a mortar and pestle can be very useful. They can be
purchased at cooking stores and chemistry supply stores/websites.
Mortar and Pestle:
Coffee Grinder:
Coffee grinders are somewhere between a mortal and pestle and a ball mill. I
find some of the best things to use them for is to grind prilled KNO3 and
NH4NO3. Some people also use them to grind Al foil before they ball mill it to
make rather large flake Al powder. I got mine for $11.
Coffee grinder:
Glassware:
Glassware is used more often to make HE's than to be used for LE's. The basics
are shown here, flasks, graduated cylinders and thermometers.
Assorted glassware:
Electric Hotplate:
Hotplates can be used for a number of things related to
pyrotechnics/explosives. You could use it for melting KNO3/sucrose, boiling 3%
H2O2 to concentrate, or any other procedure like TNP that requires heating.
You could get a fancy one specifically for lab use that will get hotter and do
it faster, or you can buy one intended for home use. I bought a "Toastmaster"
hotplate for $20 at a large hardware/appliance store.
Hotplate:
There are plenty of basic tools that will often come in handy, that are a lot
cheaper also!
Ignition supplies:
You will definitely need something to light your devices (unless you are using
electrical ignition) so these are some of the most basic things. A lighter and
matches are both good, but are not ideal for directly lighting fuses. A better
choice is a punk. Punks are pretty much just a stick with sawdust or something
on them. They look and burn like incense, but without the smell. Because you
have a constant coal, they work very well for lighting fuses. Just be sure not
to light your device and then toss your lit punk into a pile of dry grass!
There are two general sizes, incense size and much larger ones that I like
better.
Protection:
Safety is a very important part of pyro, as it can be a fairly dangerous
hobby. Your eyes are very vulnerable, so you should were eye protection while
working with devices and setting them off. There are several different choices
of protection, either eye or full face. Choose what to wear depending on what
you are doing. It would of course be best to have full face protection at all
times, but it isn't always essential.
Hand protection should be used whenever you are working with something that
has the potential to ignite. Leather gloves should be worn for best
protection. While working with powders, you should were a dust mask to keep
particles out of your nose, mouth, throat and lungs. Check MSDS sheets for
specific precautions for different chemicals. A respirator is a good thing to
have sometimes, Ill probably buy one myself before too long.
Knives:
Knives have all kinds of uses, and can often be used for things such as
cutting open firework casings. There are millions of things to do with a
knife, not just pyro related. Buy a good one and it should last you a long
time.
Light:
You will probably set off some of your devices at night, and it's a good idea
to be able to see where you are going! This is very basic, so it can sometimes
be forgotten. Maglites are good, but I really like a lightweight LED headlamp
because you don't need your hands and it is very bright.
Pliers/cutters:
Pliers can both be useful for things like peeling casings or crushing powder.
I use wire cutters for things like cutting the sticks off bottle rockets for
making a Can o Rockets.
If you think of any other tools I forgot, feel free to email me and I'll add
them.
[Information copied from http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/infodir/tools.html]
3.0 EXPLOSIVE THEORY

An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air
are displaced by the expanding gases. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains
the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: highorder explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In
a high explosive, the fuel and oxidizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to
produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of
high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxidizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as black powder. Others, such as
gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm;
they usually burn much slower than black powder when they are ignited in
unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are
also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 explosive classification:
CLASSIFICATION
EXPLOSIVE
COLOR
USES
RATE OF
DETONATION
Black
Powder
Black, gray
or cocoa
brown
Safety fuze,
1,312 feet
Muzzle
per second
loaders
Smokeless
Powder
Light brown
to black
Small arms,
mortars,
rockets
Lead Azide
White to
buff gray
Detonators, 13,400 to
priming
17,000 feet
compositions per second
Lead
Styphnate
White to
buff gray
Priming
17,100 Feet
Mercury
Fulminate
Light orange Detonators, 11,500 to

to reddish
priming
21,100 feet
brown
Tetracene
Pale yellow
Low Explosives
Primary
Explosives
Rapid
burning
Detonators, Less than

priming
13,100 feet
REMARKS
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
sensitive to
shock and
heat. Used
in
combination
with other
explosives
Amatol
Buff to
yellow to
dark brown
Ammonal
Gray
Ammonium
Nitrate
14,800 to
21,100 feet
per second
Projectile
17,700 feet
filler
per second
Ingredient of
White but
3,300 to
many
may be dyed
8,200 feet
explosive
other colors
per second
mixtures
Developed
during WWII
to conserve
TNT
water
soluable
Must be kept
cool
Armor
piercing
projectiles
and bombs
22,500 feet
per second
Astrolite
White
pellets
Demolition
Inert until
2,600 to 26,
mixed.
Do
200 feet per
not use with
second
Tetryl
C-4
White to
light brown
Plastic
demolition
explosive
26,400 feet
per second
Cyclotol
Buff to
yellow to
brown
Fragmentation 25,900 to
bombs,
26,400 feet
projectiles per second
Excellent
for blast
effects
Flex-x
any color-Usually
olive drab
or red
Cutting
charges
22,300 feet
per second
Flexible,
waterproof,
insensitve
to shock
Gray
Main charge
filler for
underwater
bombs and
torpedoes
22,700 to
23,700 feet
per second
Excellent
for blast
effects
HMX
White
Mixed with
TNT in high
blast
warheads
29,900 feet
per second
By product
of RDX
manufacture
Kinepak
Powder is
white, the
20,100 feet
Construction
liquid is
per second
usually pink
Inert until
mixed
Ammonium
Picrate
yellow to
orange to
red
Secondary
Explosives
Secondary
Explosives
Main charge
for bombs,
projectiles
HBX
(Torpex)
Minol
gray
NitroCellulose
White
Filler for
19,100 to
bombs and
19,700 feet
depth charges per second
Blasting,
smokeless
powder
21,900 feet
per second
Relatively
insensitive
to shock and
friction
Insensitive
to impact
and friction
Comparable
to TNT in
sensitivity
to
initiation
Used in
flashless
powder
Secondary
Explosives
Can be
absorbed
through skin
causing
headache
One of the
least
sensitive
military
explosives
Another form
of Nitrocellulose
Excellent
for blast
effects
Presence of
grit
increases
impact
sensitivity
Presence of
grit
increases
impact
sensitivity
Nitroglycerin
Clear to
Demolition, 4,900 to
amber.
Red
ingredient in 25,400 feet
fumes mean
dynamite
per second
"Beware"
Nitroguanidine
White to
yellow
Nitrostarch
white
Octol
Buff
Pentolite
White to
yellow to
gray
PETN
Det cord,
white unless
27,200 feet
blasting
dyed
per second
caps, primer
Picratol
Yellow to
brownish
yellow
Armor
piercing
projectiles
and bombs
22,900 feet
per second
Insensitive
to
initiation
Cream to
Picric acid yellow to
red
Alternative
filler
19,00 feet
per second
Dangerous
when it
deteriorates
Propellant
and bursting 25,100 feet
charge
per second
ingredient
Mortar
shells,
grenades
Projectile
and bomb
filler
Shape
charges,
boosters
16,00 feet
per second
27,500 to
28,300 feet
per second
24,500 feet
per second
RDX
White but
may be dyed
Det cord,
blasting
26,800 feet
caps, used to per second
make C-4
Not used
much until
WWII
Tetryl
Clear to
yellow to
gray
Booster,
25,800 feet
blasting caps per second
Colors skin
reddish
brown and
causes rash
Tetrytol
Bursters,
Light yellow
demolition
to buff
blocks
TNT
Light yellow Bombs,

21,800 to
to brown to projectiles, 22,400 feet
light gray
demolition
per second
Torpex
Gray
Secondary
Explosives
Depth
charges,
mines
24,000 to
24,200 feet
per second
24,600 feet
per second
Similar to
TNT and
Tetryl
Standard
with which
all other
explosives
are measured
Excellent
for blast
effects
More
powerful and
21,200 to
more
Tritonal
Silvergray
Bombs
22,000 feet
sensitive to
per second
shock than
TNT
There are hundreds of formulas for dynamite and
there is no set standard for detonation speed,
color, or size.
Dynamite with nitroglycerin as
an ingredient is becoming rare.
Nitroglycerin
Dynamit dynamite will crystalize after a long period of
e
storage.
A sudden temperature difference of 3
degrees can cause these crystals to detonate
without warning.
4.0 Chemical Equivalency list:

Acacia................................................................Gum
Arabic
Acetic
Acid..............................................................Vinegar
Aluminum
Oxide............................................................Alumia
Aluminum
Potassium
Sulphate.................................................Alum
Aluminum
Sulfate............................................................Alum
Ammonium
Carbonate.....................................................Hartshorn
Ammonium
Hydroxide.......................................................Ammonia
Ammonium
Oleate.....................................................Ammonia
Soap
Amylacetate...........................................................Banana
Oil
Barium
Sulfide.........................................................Black
Ash
Carbon
Carbinate...........................................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride...............................................Cleaning
Fluid
Calcium
Hypochloride............................................Bleaching
Powder
Calcium
Oxide...............................................................Lime
Calcium
Sulfate.................................................Plaster
of
Paris
Carbonic
Acid............................................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide......................................Ammonium
Salt
Ethylinedichloride...................................................Dutch
Fluid
Furfuraldehyde..........................................................Bran
Oil
Glucose...............................................................Corn
Syrup
Graphite.............................................................Pencil
Lead
Hydrochloric
Acid..................................................Muriatic
Acid
Hydrogen
Peroxide.......................................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.......................................................Sugar of
Lead
Lead
Tero-oxide.........................................................Red
Lead
Magnesium
Silicate..........................................................Talc
Magnesium
Sulfate.....................................................Epsom
Salt
Methylsalicylate................................................Winter
Green
Oil
Naphthalene............................................................Mothbal
ls
Phenol.............................................................Carbolic
Acid
Potassium
Bicarbonate............................................Cream
of
Tarter
Potassium
Chromium
Sulfate............................................Chromealum
Potassium
Nitrate.....................................................Salt
Peter
Sodium
Oxide................................................................Sand
Sodium
Bicarbonate...................................................Baking
Soda
Sodium
Borate..............................................................Borax
Sodium
Carbonate....................................................Washing
Soda
Sodium
Chloride.............................................................Salt
Sodium
Hydroxide.............................................................Lye
Sodium
Silicate............................................................Glass
Sodium
Sulfate....................................................Glauber's
Salt
Sodium
Thiosulfate...........................................Photographer's
Hypo
Sulfuric
Acid.......................................................Battery
Acid
Sucrose...............................................................Cane
Sugar
Zinc
Chloride.....................................................Tinner's
Fluid
Zinc
Vitriol
Sulfate.......................................................White

Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained
through a public or university library. There are also many publications that
are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to
make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary
magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS
________________________
WHAT COMPANY SELLS

__________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC.

EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881
PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
______________________________________________________________________________
_
UNLIMITED
CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
______________________________________________________________________________
_
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS
FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30
SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA
18328
______________________________________________________________________________
_
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.
BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET
AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
______________________________________________________________________________
_
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
AIR GUNS
______________________________________________________________________________
_
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.
TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.
PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
______________________________________________________________________________
_
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
______________________________________________________________________________
_
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
______________________________________________________________________________
_
RAINBOW TRAIL
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
______________________________________________________________________________
_
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
______________________________________________________________________________
_
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.
P.O. BOX 11
{GOOD PRICES!}
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
______________________________________________________________________________
_
*Any high school or college science or MST classroom has a buch of good
chemicals that are very useful in making many things in this book. Obviously
youl have to steal what you need, so be careful; if you are caught, you
problley be arrested and/or expelled.
______________________________________________________________________________
_
5.1-WEBSITES (links):
Skylighter-http://www.skylighter.com/- Probably the biggest and best online

supplier. They have a massive product selection and good prices. They have
many books and videos on pyrotechnics, as well as high quality pyro tools. You
must be on file with them to order, which means sending a copy of your drivers
license or other ID.
Firefox-http://www.firefox-fx.com/- Similar selection to Skylighter. They have
some products Skylighter does not and vice versa. You must be on file with
them to order.
Iowa Pyro Supply-http://www.iowapyrosupply.com/-I don't really know much about
this place, but they seem to have a good reputation on rec.pyrotechnics. Good
selection and prices, you must be on file to order.
Pyrotek-http://www.pyrotek.org/cgi-bin/newCataloger.cgi- Pyrotek sells a wide
variety of pyro, rocketry and chemistry supplies. They have a large selection
and decent prices. Warning! I have heard some bad things about this place. For
example, I got an email from somebody saying they ordered fuse here, never got
it, and did not get their money back. I have also heard from numerous people
who report having no problems at all. I have ordered from them with no
problems.
Dawntreader Pyrotechnics-http://www.dawntreader.net/info.html - Haven't heard
much about them, but they have quite a few chemicals and decent prices.
Wolter Pyro Tools-http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/index.html - Nice tools for
rockets, comets etc.
Pyrosupplies.com-http://www.pyrosupplies.com/ - "High quality and hard to find
pyrotechnic supplies"
Precocious Pyrotechnics-http://www.pyro-pro.com/
mortar tubes and other cardboard products.
LORTONE, inc.-http://www.lortone.com/
mills. Lists local distributors.
- Non-chemical supplies like
- Rock tumblers often used as ball
United Nuclear-http://www.unitednuclear.com/-No ID required, they have a lot

of good products, but prices are very high for many things. Shop around before
buying here. The no longer carry things like KClO4 and dark flake Al because
too many losers ordered them and got in trouble.
Stanford Systems Aerospace-http://www.ssaerospace.com/-A rocketry supplier.
Warning! Many people (including myself) have ordered from here and had serious
delays or have not received orders. DO NOT ORDER FROM HERE!
EBay-http://www.ebay.com/ - You can sometimes find chemicals like kno3,
sulfur, and potassium perchlorate here, but prices will most likely not be
very good.
Cannonfuse.com-http://www.cannonfuse.com/- They sell fuse and one size of
tubes, along with a few books and plans. You do not have to be on file and can
pay with cash. I have ordered from here with quick service, the price for fuse
is far better than United Nuclear.
Discount Pyro-http://www.discountpyro.com/index.htm- Small selection, but very
cheap. Requires ID. I have ordered here with no problems.
Pyro Plastics-http://www.pyroplastics.net/- Plastic aerial shell casings,
class B shells listed and a mention of expanding to Class C sales.
Pyrohobby-http://www.pyrohobby.com/
and doesnt require ID.
- A new supplier, sells a few chemicals
Pyrostuff-http://www.pyrostuff.com
http://www.hummelcroton.com-good source for ordering chemicals!
http://roguesci.org/megalomania/explosives.html-Really good source of
information on explosives(which is where I got many of the procedures that are
in this book), any kind of chemicals, and other cool scientific info.
-www.totse.com-Website with info on guns, explosives, drugs, and other stuff
people have sent in(although much information is questionable).
-http://www.armory.com/~spcecdt/pyrotech/pyrotest.html-a cool pyro purity
test.
http://www.bombshock.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi-kick-ass forum, good info.
(check it out!)
5.3-BOOKS:
_____
-THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
-MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
-FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
-Modern Chemical Magic
-Making Reliable Ignition Products at Home
6.0 Chemical preparation and sources:
6.1 Ammonium chloride:

Formula: NH4Cl
Description: Ammonium chloride is used in smoke compositions. When heated
ammonium chloride decomposes to HCl and NH3, both gasses. These recombine in
the air to give a smoke consisting of fine particles of ammonium chloride.
Hazards: Ammonium chloride based smoke is irritating to the eyes and lungs as
it contains some remaining HCl and NH3. Ammonium chloride itself is not
poisonous and is even used in some type of candy. According to Shimizu
ammonium chloride forms an exception to the rule that ammonium compounds
should not be mixed with chlorates. Due to the lower solubility of potassium
chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate) no ammonium chlorate . I personally
would still use these mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it
seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The
lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a

Sources: Ammonium chloride solution is easily prepared by neutralising ammonia
solution with hydrochloric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of
ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the
ammonium chloride obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise
traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading
to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it.
6.2 Ammonium nitrate:

Formula: NH4 NO3
Description: Ammonium nitrate is an oxidiser. It is very hygroscopic and
therefore not used very often in fireworks. It finds some use in composite
propellants, but performance is not as good as perchlorate based propellants.
Hazards: Large masses of ammonium nitrate have been known to explode on some
occasions although it is very unsensitive. Smaller quantities are less likely
to detonate. The risk of detonation increases when ammonium nitrate is molten
or mixed with fuels such as metal powders or organic substances. Ammonium
nitrate should never be mixed with chlorates as this may result in ammonium
chlorate formation, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition. Mixtures of
metal powders and ammonium nitrate are likely to heat up spontaneously and may
ignite, especially when moist. This can sometimes be prevented by the addition
of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%), but in general it is better to avoid
these mixtures at all. The hygroscopic nature of ammonium nitrates makes this
problem worse.
Sources: Ammonium nitrate solution can be prepared by neutralising ammonia
solution with nitric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of ammonia.
That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the ammonium nitrate
obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise traces of the acid
solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading to spontaneous
ignition of mixtures made with it. Large quantities of ammonium nitrate can
also be cheaply bought as fertilizer. In the Netherlands a fertilizer called
'kalkammonsalpeter' is sold. This consists of ammonium nitrate mixed with
'mergel', a mineral consisting mainly of calcium carbonate. The ammonium
nitrate can be extracted with water.
6.3 Ammonium perchlorate:

Formula: NH4ClO4
Description: Ammonium perchlorate is an oxidiser used in a large number of
compositions. Very impressive color compositions can be made with it, but
their burn rate is often too low for use in star compositions. For lancework
and torches slow burning is an advantage and it is therefore commonly used in
these items. Ammonium perchlorate is also used in composite rocket
propellants, including the propellants used in the solid propellant boosters

used for the space shuttle. The decomposition products of ammonium perchlorate
are all gasses which is very beneficial for rocket propellants.
Hazards: Ammonium perchlorate can detonate by itself, although it is not very
sensitive. Larger amounts and mixtures of ammonium perchlorate with metal
powders or organic substances are more likely to detonate.
Sources: Ammonium perchlorate is usually bought from chemical suppliers or
from dedicated pyro suppliers. Fine ammonium perchlorate powder is a regulated
substance in most countries and cannot easily be bought or transported. Since
it is such a usefull chemical in pyrotechnics it can be worth the time and
effort to try to prepare it at home. This can be done by first making sodium
perchlorate followed by double decomposition with ammonium chloride (other
ammonium compounds can be used). The preparation of sodium perchlorate is most
easily accomplished by electrolysis, the procedure for which is described
elsewhere on this page.
6.4 Barium carbonate:

Formula: BaCO3
Description: Barium carbonate is used both in white and green color
compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green color
will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine donors
BaO will be formed which emits white light. Barium carbonate is convenient to
use in chlorate based color compositions since it will neutralize residual
acid which reduces the risk of spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Most barium compounds are very poisonous, especially the more soluble
barium compounds such as the chlorate and nitrate. A dust mask should be worn
at all times when working with barium carbonate.
Sources: Barium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from
ceramic supply shops. However, this material is often contaminated with small
amounts of barium sulfide which are left over from the production process.
Therefore, ceramics grade barium carbonate should never be used in mixtures
incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Barium carbonate
is not easily made at home.
6.5 Barium chlorate:

Formula: BaClO3
Description: Barium chlorate is used as an oxidiser in green color
compositions. Fierce burning and high color purity compositions can be made
with it.
Hazards: Barium chlorate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all
times when handling it. Barium chlorate should never be mixed with sulfur or
sulfides or allowed to come in contact with mixtures containg sulfur or

sulfides since this could result in spontaneous ignition. (Sulfur reacts with
water and air to form small amounts of sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid and
chlorates react producing ClO2, an explosive gas which will ignite many
organic materials on contact). Mixtures made with barium chlorate are often
especially sensitive to friction and shock (even more so than potassium
chlorate based mixtures) and should be handled with extra care.
Sources: Barium chlorate is usually purchased from chemical suppliers or from
dedicated pyro suppliers. It can be made at home from sodium chlorate and
barium chloride by double decomposition. Barium chlorate can also be prepared
from barium chloride by electrolysis in a process analogous to that used for
preparing sodium chlorate.
6.6 Barium nitrate:

Formula: BaNO3
Description: Barium nitrate is used as an oxidiser in both white and green
color compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green
color will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine
donors BaO will be formed which emits bright white light. Barium nitrate is
seldom used as the sole oxidiser in green color compositions. It is usually
combined with perchlorates to improve the color and increase the burning rate.
Hazards: Barium nitrate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all
times when handling it. Mixtures of metal powders and barium nitrate sometimes
heat up spontaneously and may ignite, especially when moist. This can usually
be prevented by the addition of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%). It is
advisable to avoid using water to bind such compositions. Red gum or shellac
with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer are preffered binder and solvents.
Sources: Barium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate
and barium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply stores.
6.7 Barium sulfate:

Formula: BaSO4
Description: Barium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some
metal based green color compositions.
Hazards: Unlike many other barium compounds, barium sulfate is not very
poisonous due to its low solubility in water.
Sources: Barium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble
barium salt, such as barium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and
potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and are convenient
to use. The precipitated barium sulfate is a very fine powder which may be
rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and decanting. A final
washing in the filter with acetone or ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do
not use sulfuric acid to precipitate barium sulfate as this may result in the
inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated particles which can lead to
spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.8 Boric acid:

Formula: H3BO3
Description: Boric acid is a white powder which is used as an additive to
compositions containing aluminum or magnesium and a nitrate. The metal powder
can reduce the nitrate to an amide which will react with the metal powder in a
very exothermic reaction that can lead to spontaneous ignition of the
composition. This process is often accompanied by a smell of ammonia and is
most likely to occur with wet compositions. Addition of a few percent boric
acid can often prevent this reaction from taking place since it neutralizes
the very basic amides forming ammonia and a borate. It is also advisable to
avoid using a water soluble binder for these composition. Using red gum or
shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer is safer.
Hazards: Boric acid is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Boric acid is cheaply and in kilogram quantities available from
ceramic supply shops. It is also sold in many drug stores at a somewhat higher
price, but since only small quantities are needed the price is not really
important.
6.9 Calcium sulphate:

Formula: CaSO4.x H2O where x= 0, 2, 3 or 5
Description: The trihydrate is commonly known as plaster of paris. The
dihydrate occurs as a mineral known as gypsum . Calcium sulphate can be used
as a high temperature oxidiser in orange color compositions. Excellent strobe
compositions can be made with it.
Hazards: Calcium sulphate is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Plaster can be used as is in strobe compositions, but is better to
remove the water which is easily accomplished by heating.
6.10 Dextrin:
Formula: mixture of polysacharides
Description: Dextrine is one of the most commonly used binders in pyrotechincs

as it is very cheap and readily available. It is water soluble and can produce
rock hard stars.
Hazards: Colophonium is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Dextrine is easily prepared from starch. Potato and corn starch will
both work fine. The starch is spread out on a sheet in a layer about 1 cm
thick and placed in the oven. The oven is then heated to 220C for several
hours. The dextrine will turn slightly yellowish brown. One way to check if
all the starch has been converted is to dissolve a small sample in boiling hot
water and add a drop of KI3 solution. A blue color indicates presence of
starch, which means the conversion hasn't completed yet. KI3 solution is
conveniently prepared by dissolving a crystal of elemental iodine in a
potassium iodide solution.
6.11 Ethanol:
Formula: CH3CH2OH
Description: Ethanol is used as a solvent. Red gum and shellac, two common
binders both dissolve in ethanol well. Ethanol/water mixtures are also often
used since the ethanol increases the 'wetness' of the water (it reduces the
surface tension of the water) and reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Ethanol is flammable and volatile. Ethanol vapour is heavier than air
and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when working with
ethanol.
Sources: Chemically pure ethanol can be quite expensive due to increased tax,
unless it is used for laboratory purposes. Denaturated alcohol (usually a
mixture of ethanol and methanol) has been made undrinkable and therefore a lot
cheaper. It can be used for pyro purposes. Some types of denaturated alcohol
exist with other chemicals mixed in besides methanol to make it undrinkable
and recognisable as such (colorants etc). I have no idea what these extra
additives are and wheter they can cause problems in compositions. I have been
using 'spiritus' (a well known type of denaturated alcohol in the Netherlands)
for several years without problems.
6.12 Iron:
Formula: Fe
Description: Iron powder is used for spark effects, mainly in fountains and
sparklers. It produces golden yellow branching sparks. Not every iron alloy
will work equally well. Iron alloys with a high carbon content generally work
best. Stainless steel will produce hardly any sparks.
Hazards: Iron needs to be protected before use in pyrotechnic compositions.
Otherwise it will corrode and render the composition useless or even
dangerous. Iron containing compositions are generally best kept dry and not
bound with water soluble binders. Iron can be coated with linseed or tung oil.
The latter was used in ancient China (and may still be used today). Linseed is
very convenient to use and easy to obtain. Blackpowder-like compositions (ie
Charcoal/sulfur/saltpeter based) with added metal, such as they are often used
in fountains, are more sensitive than the composition without added metal.
Extra caution, especially when pressing or ramming, should be excersised.
Sources: Iron turnings can often be had for free from places were iron is used
for construction. Drilling, sawing etc produces a powder with wide range of
particles. This powder is treated with mineral oil to remove oil and grease,
sieved, and then coated with linseed oil.
6.13 Iron oxide (red):

Formula: Fe2O3
Description: Red iron oxide is used as a catalyst in composite and whistling
rocket propellant formulations. It is also added to some glitter formulations
and used for 'thermite', a mixture that produces enormous amounts of heat,
forming molten iron.
Hazards: Red iron oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Common rust is not iron oxide. It is a mixture of oxides and
hydroxides. A cheap source for red iron oxide is the ceramics supply shop.
6.14 Lead tetraoxide:

Formula: Pb3O4
Description: Lead tetraoxide, sometimes called 'lead minium', is used to make
crackling microstars. The composition is very sensitive, explosive and
poisonous. It is in fact one of the most dangerous mixtures used commonly in
modern pyrotechnics. An alternative mixture based on bismuth trioxide exists
(which is less poisonous), but the high price of bismuth trioxide restricts
its use.
Hazards: Lead tetraoxide, like most lead compounds, is extremely poisonous.
Lead is an accumulative neurotoxin and extreme care should be taken to prevent
direct contact. Lead tetraoxide may be absorbed by inhalation and ingestion.
Wear a respirator, gloves, and protective clothing.
Sources: Lead tetraoxide may be prepared from a solution of lead nitrate and
sodium hydroxide. Note that the procedure involves extremely corrosive and
poisonous chemicals and should only be attempted by those who have access to
(and know how to use) the right equipment and can handle the waste properly.
Prepare a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide by dissolving 300 grams of
sodium hydroxide in water. The solution will heat up during this. To prevent
it from boiling suddenly add only small portions at a time. When all has
dissolved, allow it to cool down to room temperature. Dissolve 50 grams of

lead nitrate in 200 ml of water, and slowly add the sodium hydroxide solution
to this solution while stirring continuesly. A white precipitate will form
first, which will turn orange when all sodium hydroxide solution has been
added. Stir this solution well for another hour, and then allow the lead
tetraoxide to settle. Carefully decant the supernatant, add boiling hot water
to the residue, stir, allow to settle and decant again. Repeat this 5 more
times. Then filter and rinse the lead tetraoxide in the filter several times
with hot water.
6.15 Manganese dioxide:

Formula: MnO2
Description: Manganese dioxide can be used as a catalyst in composite and
whistling rocket propellant formulations. A thermite-like mixture can also be
made with it. The manganese dioxide thermite burns more slowly than the iron
oxide based mixture with a bright white glow.
Hazards: Mangese dioxide is poisonous and leaves brown stains on glassware
etc. The stains can be removed with dilute hydrochloric acid (of course, only
when the stained object is not attacked by it).
Sources: Mangese dioxide can be obtained from old batteries or from the
ceramics supply store. The mangese dioxide in batteries is mixed with several
other compounds from which it must be separated. An easy, though messy way to
do this is as follows: Find a couple of depleted carbon-zinc batteries. Only
carbon-zinc type batteries will do. Do not use other types such as rechargable
or lithium based batteries. These, especially the rechargable ones, contain
extremely dangerous and/or poisonous compounds such as cadmium, mercury and
metallic lithium. Carbon-zinc batteries may contain small amounts of mercury
as well, especially the older types, so precautions should be taken to prevent
skin and eye contact and to prevent breathing or swallowing of dust. So: wear
your dust mask, glasses, gloves and old clothing. Then carefully take the
battery apart. You'll find a greyish white (zinc oxide) or metallic coating
(zinc metal) inside, depending on wheter the battery is empty or not. This
surrounds a black, sometimes wet, mass. This black stuff contains among other
things the mangese dioxide. Peel the coating off and save the black mass.
There is also a black rod inside attached to the anode. This is a graphite rod
and can be safed for chlorate (and maybe perchlorate) preparations. We'll
assume you use 2 batteries from here on. (if not, adjust amounts accordingly).
Place the black mass in 200 ml of 30% hydrochloric acid. The manganese dioxide
will slowly dissolve, giving off chlorine gas. Chlorine gas is dangerous: it
attacks the lungs and is poisonous. Do this outside or better yet: in a fume
hood if you have one. Allow the manganese dioxide several days to dissolve.
The solution is then filtered which should yield a clear solution of
manganese(III)chloride. In a separate container dissolve 200 grams of sodium
hydroxide in a liter of bleach. Add the manganese(III)chloride solution slowly
to the bleach/sodium hydroxide solution. This results in a brown precipitate
of manganese dioxide which is filtered, rinsed several times with boiling hot
water and dried.
6.16 Magnalium:
Formula: Alloy of magnesium and aluminum, usually 50:50. Sometimes written:
MgAl
Description: Magnalium is a very brittle alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Some
common uses are in for spark effects, in strobing compositions and in
crackling stars. It is commonly alloyed in
Hazards: Magnalium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when
handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and mangalium sometimes heat
up and may ignite spontaneously, especially when moist. This can usually be
prevented by treating the magnalium with potassium dichromate. This is done by
boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. Adding fine
potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also help.
Sources: Magnalium can be made at home. Plan well and prepare yourself for
working with molten metals that may ignite if you plan to make it at home. If
the metal ignites expect it to burn very brightly and hot. Explosions are not
common but may occur if the hot melt is allowed to contact water or oxidisers.
Do it outside and away from anything flammable. If it ignites don't try to
extuingish it but get away from the burning mass and let it burn out and cool
before approaching it. Don't look directly into the burning metal as it may
damage your eyes. Start by melting aluminum in a stainless steel container.
The molten metal should be covered with a blanked of inert gas. In this case
neither nitrogen nor carbon dioxide will function as an inert gas. It is best
to get a cylinder of argon gas at a welding supply store. Using an electric
furnace for the melting is very convenient and allows good control over the
temperature. To the molten aluminum magnesium is added in solid form. The melt
should be stirred from time to time. When all the magnesium has melted, the
melt is allowed to solidify. It is then easily crushed up in smaller chunks
with an heavy hammer. These chunks are crushed further and sieved. It can also
be ball milled into a fine powder using steel media but this can be dangerous
since the metal powder can become pyrophoric.
6.17 Magnesium:
Formula: Mg
Description: Magnesium powder is used in a wide variety of compositions, both
for spark effects and 'normal' fuel purposes. Relatively coarse magnalium is
used for spark effects. In flares and some bright colored star compositions it
functions as a normal fuel. It is superior to aluminum in color compositions
since MgCl2 and MgO are more easily vaporised than the corresponding aluminum
compounds. This reduces the amount of black-body radiation and improves the
color purity.
Hazards: Magnesium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when
handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and magnesium sometimes heat
prevented by treating the magnesium with potassium dichromate. This is done by
boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. The magnesium
will turn brown when this is done. Adding fine potassium dichromate powder to
such compositions may also help.
Sources: Making magnesium at home is very difficult. Magnesium can be bought
in boating supply stores. It is used to prevent corrosion of a ships hull. For
that purpose it is welded to the hull. The lower position of magnesium in the
electrochemical series will make the magnesium corrode before the steel will.
Making such a block of magnesium into a fine powder will not be easy. Filing
or cutting and ball milling may be tried. Ball milling of metals can be
dangerous however since the metal can become pyrophoric.
6.18 Methanol:
Formula: CH3OH
Description: Methanol is used as a solvent, much in the same way ethanol is
used. Red gum and shellac, two common binders both dissolve in methanol.
Methanol/water mixtures are also often used since the methanol increases the
'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface tension of the water) and
reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Methanol is flammable, volatile and toxic. Methanol vapour is heavier
than air and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when
working with methanol
Sources: Methanol is often more cheaply and easily availble than ethanol
because it is toxic and no extra taxes are charged for it. It finds use in a
certain type of camping stove and can often be bought in camping supply
stores.
6.19 Parlon:
Formula: (C4H6Cl2)n
Description: Parlon is a acetone-soluble polymere that is used as a chlorine
donor and binder. It is a good example of one of the new chemicals that has
become available in the past few decades for use in compositions.
Hazards: Parlon is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Parlon seems to be available from dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.20 Potassium benzoate:

Formula: KC7H5O2
Description: Potassium benzoate is commonly used in whistle compositions. It

is a white powder
Hazards: Potassium benzoate is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Potassium benzoate can be prepared from benzoic acid and potassium
carbonate or hydroxide. Benzoic acid is not very soluble, but both potassium
carbonate and hydroxide are. Dissolve 140.2g potassium carbonate or 56.1g
potassium carbonate in 250 ml water, and add 146g benzoic acid. Bring the
mixture to a boil. If potassium carbonate is used, CO2 gas will evolve.
Continue boiling untill all benzoic acid has dissolved, occasionally adding
some water to make up for what has evaporated. When all benzoic acid has
dissolved, continue boiling untill the first crystals of potassium benzoate
are observed (ie the saturation point has been reached). Then allow the
solution to cool to room temperature. Potassium benzoate will crystalise in
needle shaped crystals. Filter, and rinse the crystals twice with ice-cold
water. The crystals may be dried in an oven at 100 deg C.
6.21 Potassium chlorate:

Formula: KClO3
Description: Potassium chlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics,
even though it has some treacherous properties and other oxidisers would
sometimes be safer to use. Part of the reason of its popularity in commercial
pyrotechnics is that it is cheap and easily available. The large scale
production of this compound made the first quality colored fireworks possible,
about a century ago.
Hazards: Potassium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder. Compositions made with potassium chlorate tend to
be more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should
therefore be handled accordingly. Potassium chlorate, or any chlorate for that
matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures
containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously ignite. In general,
when using chlorates great care should be taken to avoid contamination of
other compositions or tools. Also read the safety section for more information
on this problem.
Sources: Potassium chlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium
chlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. It may also be obtained as a
herbicide in some countries (France, for example) Then, by double
decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium chlorate is prepared from
this solution. The product is recrystallised, dried and powdered.
This chemicals is used in many explosives. Potassium chlorate can also be
made into plastique explosives(*See Chapter 8-High Order Explosives). Common
household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be
extracted in the procedure that follows.
Materials:
-A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)

-A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
-A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
-Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Procedure:
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it.
While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add
this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated
with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a
battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between
room temperature and 0C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save
them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the
crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in
the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat
this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save
the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure
potassium chlorate.
*Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off
all moisture.
6.22 Potassium dichromate:

Formula: K2Cr2O7
Description: Potassium dichromate is a bright orange crystalline subststance
that is used to treat magnesium powder. The treatment makes magnesium more
resistant to spontaneous reactions that could result in lower reliability of
the mixture or spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Potassium dichromate is toxic and a carcinogen. It should be handled
with extreme care and proper protective clothing.
Sources: Potassium dichromate seems to be available from chemical suppliers
and dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.23 Potassium perchlorate:

Formula: KClO4
Description: Potassium perchlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics.
Composition based on perchlorates tend to be less sensitive than those based
on chlorates, and perchlorates can be used with sulfur and sulfides. For these
reasons potassium perchlorate is much preferred above chlorates. Drawback is
its slightly higher price.
Hazards: Potassium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be
worn when handling fine powder.
Sources:Potassium perchlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose,
sodium perchlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. Then, by double
decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium perchlorate is prepared from
6.24 Potassium Picrate:

Description: Potassium picrate was first prepared back in the mid 17th century
by J.R. Glauber. The first use for potassium picrate came in 1869, it found
its way into explosives, propellents, primers, and pyrotechnics. This
explosive is stable and resists shock, friction, etc. It will deflagrate if
subjected to flame, and in mixtures with oxidizing agents, it will only burn
if ignited, but it has lower sensitivity. This is not a very powerful
explosive, it is more suited to pyrotechnics and bullet primers.
CHEMICALS
nitric acid
picric acid
potassium carbonate
APPARATUS
beaker
Potassium picrate can be prepared by Glaubers original method of

dissolving wood in nitric acid then neutralizing the resulting mixture with
potassium carbonate. For the modern method, neutralize a hot aqueous solution
of potassium carbonate with a hot picric acid solution in a beaker of suitable
size, test the solution with litmus paper until neutral. Filter the crystals
that separate when the solution cools to collect them and allow to dry.
6.25 Polyvinyl chloride:

Formula: [C2H3Cl]n
Description: Like parlon and saran, PVC is a polymeric chlorine donor and
fuel. It can be used in the form of a fine powder or as a solution in
tetrahydrofuran (THF). It is sometimes used as a binder, but it is very
brittle. Small amounts of plasticiser (dioctyl phtalate is common) may be
added to improve the mechanical properties.
Hazards: PVC itself is not particularly dangerous or toxic. Dioctyl phtalate
is a suspected carcinogen however and THF is a very flamable and volatile
liquid.
Sources: As an alternative to the PVC powder available from chemical suppliers

and dedicated pyro suppliers, PVC glue may also be used. It is usually sold in
hardware stores and comes in two varieties: gelling or gap-filling and normal.
Both are essentially a concentrated solution of PVC. I have no experience with
the gelling variety, but the normal variety can succesfully be used in
compositions. The gelling variety may be better suited for pyro purposes since
it seems it contains more PVC. Another possibility is to use 'Sculpy' or
'Fimo' clay. These modelling clays consist of PVC with a large amount of
plasticiser. The plasticiser may affect the color of a composition negatively,
but reasonable results can still be obtained with it. It can simply be kneaded
into a composition with some effort. This type of clay is usually hardened by
heating it in an oven, but do not be tempted to do this with pyrotechnic
mixtures as they may ignite.
6.26 PICRIC ACID:
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military

explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________
phenol (9.5 g)
500 ml flask
concentrated
adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)

1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric
or other container
acid (38 ml)
suitable for boiling in
distilled water
filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes.
After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool
for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
3.13,
steps 3-4.
bath.
Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly.
A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.
When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap
water.
heat
Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel.
Collect the liquid and dispose of
it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask.
Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
6.27 Red gum:

Formula: Mixture of compounds.
Description: Red gum, or accaroid resin, is one of the most commonly used
binders. It is made from the excretions of a certain tree native to Australia.
Red gum is soluble in ethanol and acetone.
Hazards: Red gum is not particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: Red gum may be bought in artistic painting supply stores.
6.28 Sodium benzoate:

Formula: NaC7O2H5
Description: Sodium benzoate is a white solid that is used as a fuel. It's
most common use is in 'whistle mix', a mixture of potassium perchlorate and
either sodium or potassium benzoate.
Hazards: Sodium benzoate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Sodium benzoate can be made from sodium carbonate (soda) or sodium
hydroxide and benzoic acid which is often more easily available than it's
salts. Benzoic acid is only sparingly soluble in water. Dissolve either 425 g
hydrated sodium carbonate (common household soda) or 30 g sodium hydroxide in
water. Add 100 g of benzoic acid and boil the solution. The benzoic acid will
slowly dissolve. During boiling, occasionally add water to make up for what
has evaporated. If sodium carbonate was used, carbon dioxide gas will evolve.
After all the benzoic acid has dissolved, continue boiling allowing the water
to evaporate untill crystallisation begins. Then stop heating and allow the
solution to cool slowly to room temperature. Needle-shaped crystals of sodium
benzoate will form upon cooling. Cool the solution further to 0 deg C,
filtrate and rinse the crystals with ice-cold water. Purify the product by
recrystallisation from water.
6.29 Sodium chlorate:

Formula: NaClO3
Description: Sodium chlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it is
very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants. It
is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several
other (less hygroscopic) chlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder. Compositions made with sodium chlorate tend to be
more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should
therefore be handled accordingly. Sodium chlorate, or any chlorate for that
on this problem. Acidic solutions containing chlorates generate a very
poisonous and explosive gas, ClO2.
Sources:Sodium chlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing a
sodium chloride solution under certain circumstances. A description of the
process, cell and anode design, etc. for home produciton may be found in the
chlorate and perchlorate section of this page. In some countries, France for
example, sodium chlorate may be obtained as a herbicide.
6.30 Sodium nitrate:

Formula: NaNO3
Description: Sodium nitrate finds occasional use as an oxidiser in flare and
tracer compositions because of the high efficiency of light emmision that can
be obtained with it, but its high hygroscopic nature limits its use. Sodium
nitrate can be used to prepare potassium nitrate, a much less hygroscopic and
more often used oxidiser.
Hazards: Sodium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: 95% pure sodium nitrate is available as a fertilizer. In the
Netherlands this fertilizer is sold under the name 'chilisalpeter'. If
required, it can be easily purified by recrystallisation.
6.31 Sodium perchlorate:

Formula: NaClO4
Description: Sodium perchlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it
is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants.
It is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several
other (less hygroscopic) perchlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder.
Sources:Sodium perchlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing
a sodium chlorate solution under certain circumstances. A description of the
chlorate and perchlorate section of this page.
6.32 Strontium carbonate:

Formula: SrCO3
Description: Strontium carbonate is used in combination with chlorine donors
to produce red colors. It also acts as an acid neutraliser, for which reason
it is prefered in chlorate based compositions (which may spontaneously ignite
when traces of acid are present).
Hazards: Strontium carbonate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from

amounts of strontium sulfide which are left over from the production process.
Therefore, ceramics grade strontium carbonate should never be used in mixtures
incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Strontium
carbonate is not easily made at home.
6.33 Strontium nitrate:

Formula: Sr(NO3)2
Description: Strontium nitrate is an oxidiser commonly employed in red color
compositions in combination with chlorine donors.
Hazards: Strontium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium
nitrate and strontium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply
stores. Use an excess of strontium carbonate to ensure complete neutralisation
of acid and recrystallise the product from a slightly alkaline solution to
prevent the inclusion of acid solvent droplets in the crystals.
6.34 Strontium sulfate:

Formula: SrSO4
Description: Strontium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some
metal based red color compositions.
Hazards: Strontium sulfate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble
strontium salt, such as strontium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate.
Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and
are convenient to use. The precipitated strontium sulfate is a very fine
powder which may be rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and
decanting. A final washing in the filter with acetone or ethanol will allow it
to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid to precipitate strontium sulfate as
this may result in the inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated
particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.35 Sulfuric acid:

Formula: H2SO4
Description: Sulfuric acid itself finds no use in pyrotechnics, but it can be

used in the preparation of an number of usefull compounds for which reason it
is included here.
Hazards: Sulfuric acid and its fumes are extremely corrosive. Wear proper
protective clothing (gloves, apron and a face shield are minimal) and provide
adequate ventilation when working with it. Reactions with metals often produce
flammable hydrogen gas (hydrogen). The presence of acid can cause spontaneous
reactions in many pyrotechnic mixtures and should at all times be avoided.
When working with sulfuric acid, have no chemicals or compositions nearby to
prevent contamination. Make sure all traces of acid in chemicals produced with
sulfuric acid are removed if they are to be used in pyrotechnics compositions.
Sources: Sulfur is available from agricultural supply stores where it is sold
as a fungicide under the name 'dusting sulfur'. It is a fine powder mixed with
a few percent of calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate may disturb delicate
color compositions, but for most purposes dusting sulfur works well. If a
purer form of sulfur is required, sulfur may also be obtained from drug stores
sometimes. However, these often sell 'flowers of sulfur', which has been
purified by sublimation and which contains some acid. This needs to be
neutralised before use as it could cause spontaneous ignition. To do this,
allow 100g of this sulfur to soak in a liter of water/household ammonia (1:5).
Stir well occasionally and measure the pH. It should still be alkaline after
two days, after which time the sulfur may be filtered and washed with hot
water to remove the ammonia. Check the pH of the washing water while
filtering. After it has become neutral, flush the water away with ethanol and
allow the sulfur to dry. Mix the dry powder with 2% magnesium carbonate to
neutralise any acid that may be formed in reactions with the atmosphere.
6.36 Zinc:
Formula: Zn
Description: Metallic zinc is used in rocket propellants, for spark effects
and in white smoke compositions. Zinc powder is quite heavy and zinc-based
stars often require heavier lift or burst charges to propell them.
Hazards: Zinc powder can spontanesouly heat up when wet.
Sources: Zinc powder is used in paints for the protection of steel. Spray cans
containing an suspension of zinc powder are commonly sold in hardware stores.
The zinc powder may be extracted by emptying the spray can in a large
container, allowing the powder to settle, decanting the solvent and paints and
repeated washing with paint thinner or acetone.
6.37 Zinc oxide:

Formula: ZnO
Description: Zinc oxide is used to produce white smoke.
Hazards: Zinc oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Zinc oxide is usually available as a white pigment called 'zinc
white' in artistic paint stores. It can also be prepared by igniting a piece
of zinc sheet.
6.38 Acetylene:
Description:
Acetylene is used in cutting torches and is extremely flammable.
Hazards: An acetylene explosion can be very harmful and dangerous.

use can result in death.
Improper
Sources: Can be found in sheet metal shops or any where a cutting torch is
used, as acetylene is the fuel used in cutting torches.
This gas can be produced by taking calcium carbide and submerging it
in water, in a flask. The acetylene gas is then collected by putting balloon
over the mouth of the flask.
6.39 Calcium Carbide:

Description:
Sources: Can be purchased online as Bangsite, a chemical used in novelty
cannons; or from other chemical suppliers.
6.40 Perchlorates:
A perchlorate is a chemical functional group, explosive more often then
not, with the formula -ClO4. Since so many pyrotechnic compounds seem to use a
perchlorate somewhere in the mix, it seemed logical to have them here. It is
easy to confuse perchlorates with chlorates, chlorites, and hypochlorites,
their formulas are ClO4, ClO3, ClO2, and ClO respectively. Perchlorate salts
are simply the product of a base with perchloric acid, although organic
perchlorates exist as well.
One thing perchlorates share in common is that they are strong
oxidizers, they should be kept away from any reducible materials and excessive
heat. Metal perchlorates tend to be more stable than organic perchlorates. One
of the first perchlorate salts to be identified was potassium perchlorate,
other salts of interest include aluminum perchlorate, ammonium perchlorate,
barium perchlorate, cadmium perchlorate, calcium perchlorate, cobalt
perchlorate, copper perchlorate, hydrazine diperchlorate, iron perchlorate,
lead perchlorate, lithium perchlorate, magnesium perchlorate, manganese
perchlorate, mercury perchlorate, nickel perchlorate, nitrosyl perchlorate,

nitryl perchlorate, silver perchlorate, sodium perchlorate, strontium
perchlorate, titanium tetraperchlorate, uranyl perchlorate, and zinc
perchlorate. Some of these are mere curiosities, their chemical precursors
will not be in the synthesis section. The usual data on safety and use of
these compounds has been omitted as well in the interest of keeping this lab
brief.
6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate:

Al(ClO4)3 melting point
decomposes at 300 C molecular mass
325.37 g/mol density
2.209 g/mL
Set up a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask for refluxing and liquid
addition. The top of the reflux condenser needs to be capped with a drying
tube to protect the reaction from moisture. Heat to reflux some silver
perchlorate in anhydrous methyl alcohol, then slowly add a solution of
aluminum chloride in methyl alcohol drop by drop from the addition funnel. A
precipitate of silver chloride will appear, filter the product to remove the
silver chloride and heat the remaining solution at 150 C to remove the methyl
alcohol and crystallize the aluminum perchlorate.
6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate:
chemical formula
NH3ClO4 melting point
1.9518 g/mL
Ammonium perchlorate can be prepared in the lab by carefully neutralizing
perchloric acid with either gaseous ammonia or aqueous ammonium hydroxide.
Filter the solution to collect the crystals of ammonium perchlorate,
recrystallize them from water, and dry at 110 C until a constant weight is
obtained.
6.40-3 barium perchlorate:

Ba(ClO4)2 melting point
505 C molecular mass
3.681 g/mL
Anhydrous barium perchlorate is prepared by heating a mixture of solid
barium chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate, or by heating a mixture of barium
carbonate and ammonium perchlorate.
6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate:

Cd(ClO4)2 melting point
311.30 g/mol
Anhydrous cadmium perchlorate can be prepared by mixing together cadmium
nitrate with anhydrous perchloric acid and 100% nitric acid.
6.40-5 calcium perchlorate:

Ca(ClO4)2 melting point
238.98 g/mol
Anhydrous calcium perchlorate can be prepared by heating a mixture of 100
g of calcium carbonate with 235 g of ammonium perchlorate. Ammonium carbonate
will be evolved as a gas, leaving behind pure calcium perchlorate.
6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate:

Co(ClO4)2 molecular mass
3.327 g/mL
The hexahydrate of cobalt perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
calcium carbonate, or calcium oxide, in aqueous perchloric acid. Evaporation
of the solution yields crystals of cobalt perchlorate.
6.40-7 copper perchlorate:

Cu(ClO4)2 melting point
82.3 C molecular mass
2.225 g/mL
Anhydrous copper perchlorate is prepared by heating in vacuum at 200 C a
mixture of nitrosyl perchlorate and your choice of either copper monoxide,
copper dichloride, or copper nitrate. It can also be prepared by reacting
copper powder with nitrosyl perchlorate in an organic solvent.
6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate:

N2H4.2HClO4 melting point
2.21 g/mL
Hydrazine diperchlorate, or HDP, can be prepared by reacting equimolar
amounts of aqueous barium perchlorate with hydrazine sulfate. Filter to remove
the precipitate of barium sulfate, and evaporate the filtrate on a water bath
to yield crystals of HDP.
6.40-9 iron perchlorate:

Fe(ClO4)2 melting point
explodes molecular mass
254.75 g/mol
Iron perchlorate is prepared by reacting 70% perchloric acid with iron
sulfide, or iron sulfate, followed by evaporation of the solution. Heat the
solution very gently to evaporate, strong heating can cause an explosion.
6.40-10 lead perchlorate:

Pb(ClO4)2 melting point
83 C molecular mass
2.6 g/mL
The trihydrate of lead perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving lead
carbonate in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporation the solution until
crystals appear.
6.40-11 lithium perchlorate:

Li(ClO4)2 molecular mass
205.84 g/mol
The trihydrate of lithium perchlorate can be prepared by reacting lithium
sulfate with barium perchlorate in solution, then evaporating the solution to
yield the crystals. It can also be prepared by reacting lithium carbonate with
aqueous perchloric acid.
6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate:

Mg(ClO4)2 melting point
224-520 C molecular mass
2.21 g/mL
The hexahydrate of magnesium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
pure magnesium oxide in dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate the solution until
fumes appear, then cool. Filter to collect the crystals of magnesium
perchlorate that should have formed, and recrystallize them from water.
6.40-13 manganese perchlorate:

Mn(ClO4)2 melting point
253.84 g/mol
The hexahydrate of manganese perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
manganese hydroxide, or manganese carbonate, in dilute perchloric acid.
Evaporate the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-14 mercury perchlorate:

Hg(ClO4)2 molecular mass
399.49 g/mol
Anhydrous mercury perchlorate can be prepared by adding a solution of
perchloric acid in trifluoroacetic acid to and mercury salt in trifluoroacetic
acid. Carefully evaporate the solution until crystals form.
6.40-16 nickel perchlorate:

Ni(ClO4)2 melting point
3.4 g/mL
The hexaammoniate of nickel perchlorate can be prepared by adding a
solution of 14 g of sodium perchlorate in 50 mL of water to a solution of 23.8
g of nickel dichloride and 5.4 g of ammonium chloride in 120 mL of water.
Slowly add with stirring 60 mL of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. Cool this
mixture for 4 hours with a salt-ice bath, then filter to collect the crystals
of the perchlorate.
6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate:

NO2ClO4 melting point
161.45 g/mol
Nitryl perchlorate can be prepared by distilling anhydrous perchloric
acid, allowing the distillate to drip onto a large excess of dry dinitrogen
pentoxide chilled to -80 C (yes that's negative) and some nitromethane. The
mixture is allowed to warm to room temperature, then kept under vacuum for 48
hours to remove any volatile contaminants.
6.40-18 potassium perchlorate:

KClO4 melting point
2.53574 g/mL
Potassium perchlorate is prepared by slowly adding 50 mL of concentrated
sulfuric acid to 2-5 g of potassium chlorate. The addition is slow to avoid
explosion. Alternately, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, or chromium trioxide can
be used instead of sulfuric acid. It can also be prepared by mixing potassium
chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate in solid form and heating. A residue of

potassium perchlorate will be left behind.
6.40-19 silver perchlorate:

AgClO4 melting point
2.806 g/mL
Anhydrous silver perchlorate can be prepared by adding anhydrous
perchloric acid to a solution of a silver salt dissolved in trifluoroacetic
acid. It can also be prepared by dissolving silver oxide in aqueous perchloric
acid and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-20 sodium perchlorate:

NaClO4 melting point
2.5298 g/mL
The monohydrate of sodium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
sodium carbonate in a slight excess of dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate some
of the solution, then cool to 50 C. The solid can be centrifuged, collected,
and dried at 250 C. The anhydrous can be obtained by recrystallizing from
water above 53 C.
6.40-21 strontium perchlorate:

Sr(ClO4)2 melting point
decomposes molecular mass
2.973 g/mL
The monohydrate of strontium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
pure strontium nitrate in an excess of perchloric acid, and neutralizing the
acid with strontium carbonate. Centrifuge to collect waste solids, and chill
the liquid until crystals of the perchlorate appear.
6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate:

Ti(ClO4)4 molecular mass
445.70 g/mol
Anhydrous titanium tetraperchlorate can be prepared by mixing 8 moles of
anhydrous perchloric acid with 1 mole of titanium tetrachloride at -10 C.
6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate:
UO2(ClO4)2 melting point

90 C molecular mass
469.0 g/mol
The hexahydrate of uranyl perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
ordinary hardware store brand uranium trioxide in 40% perchloric acid.
Concentrate the solution on a water bath then chill to yield yellow crystals
of the perchlorate.
6.40-24 zinc perchlorate:

Zn(ClO4)2 melting point
2.252 g/mL
The hexahydrate of zinc perchlorate can be prepared by mixing solutions
of zinc sulfate and barium perchlorate, filtering off the precipitate of
barium sulfate, and evaporating the solution until crystals appear. It can
also be prepared by zinc oxide, or zinc carbonate, in aqueous perchloric acid
and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
7.0 Low-Order Explosives

7.1 Acetone Peroxide:
Narrowing down a name for this compound is rather tricky. In the
literature is is commonly referred to as acetone peroxide because it is
typically a mixture of isomers. Other literature refers to it as
tricycloacetoneperoxide, triacetonetriperoxide, TATP, AP, TCAP, and
3,3,6,6,9,9-hexamethyl-1,2,4,5,7,8-hexoxonane. Many types of chemicals react
with air and light to form explosive peroxides, usually this is a bad thing
because their formation occurs without intent. A compound being distilled in
the lab may explode if peroxides have formed, this is why a small amount of
liquid is always left undistilled.
This particular formula is intriguing because of its simplicity to make
and the availability of the chemicals used. This simplicity has made it very
popular among fools. Instruction derived from the Big Book of Mischief, and
their loathsome breed, are lacking in detailed information that may determine
a continued success or failure at this procedure. An abundance of
misinformation has led to much confusion about acetone peroxide. The
information presented here is directly from the original scientific references
by the scientists who developed this explosive, not some "crap book" as listed
above. There are actually two isomers of acetone peroxide, the first is
tricyclo acetone peroxide, which is what will be made here, and the second is
dicycloacetone peroxide. Both of these compounds are very similar, but the
reaction seems to favor the tricyclo over the dicyclo at lower temperatures.
The tricyclo isomer is more stable and more powerful than the dicyclo, that is
why every effort is made to prepare the former. Both isomers will be made in
the reaction with the tricyclo being the principal product. There are also a
varity of other peroxides made in this synthesis; see the reaction scheme
below.
Acetone peroxide would have made a decent military explosive if not for
its instability. It can not be stressed enough how unstable and dangerous
acetone peroxide is. As instability goes this is among the most unstable of
other explosives here.
Acetone peroxide is formed by acid-catalyzed nucleophilic addition. That
means an acid helps the peroxide, a nucleophile, react with the acetone, a
ketone. A nucleophile is a "nucleus lover," or a chemical species that donates
electrons. A ketone is a substance that has the molecular formula R2C=O where
R is any carbon chain. There is some confusion as to which acid to use, the
useless internet books frequently cite hydrochloric acid as the acid to use.
The fact is, the acid is only a catalyst, it does not matter what acid is
used, as long as it is a strong acid. Only inorganic acids fit this criteria.
Since the original literature uses sulfuric acid, this lab uses sulfuric. You
may use whichever acid is the most economical, or available.
Acetone, hydrogen peroxide, and sulfuric acid, the chemicals used in this
lab, are all available over the counter. That is the real reason this
explosive is so popular, it is unfortunate that this explosive is so
dangerous. Since 30% hydrogen peroxide is hard to obtain, substituting 10
times the volume of commercially available 3% peroxide is acceptable, although
this will lower the yield a bit. It is also advisable to multiply the volume
of acid by a corresponding value.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl ether
hydrogen peroxide
sulfuric acid
distilled water
thermometer
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
eye dropper
graduated cylinder
separatory funnel
stirring rod/stirrer
To a 500-mL beaker add 50 mL of acetone, then stir in 30 mL of 30%

hydrogen peroxide. Place the beaker in a salt-ice bath and cool it to 5 C.
After cooling, slowly add 3 mL of 75% sulfuric acid drop by drop with an eye
dropper. Stir the mixture continuously while adding the acid, keep the
temperature between 5 C to 10 C, stop adding acid if the temperature gets to
high. It is very important that you moderate the reaction, high temperatures
will lower your yield and cause the formation of the less useful dicyclo
isomer. After adding all the acid, continue stirring for 5 minutes. Keep the
mixture in the bath for 1 to 3 hours, or even up to 24 hours. After sitting, a
white precipitate should have formed. Filter the mixture to collect the
crystals, then wash them with 300-500 mL of water. Allow the crystals to dry
before using, keep them damp if storing. For increased purity, add the
precipitate to ethyl ether and let it dissolve. Place the ethyl ether solution
in a separatory funnel and wash by shaking with three portions of cold water.
Add the ethyl ether solution to a beaker and heat it on a steam bath to
evaporate the ethyl ether. It should take about 3 hours to dry. You will need
a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer
for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
I would suggest making this explosive shortly before it is desired to use
it as it is never wise to keep unstable primary explosives around too long. It
can be stored rather safely under water for some time. If allowed to stand in
the open it will vaporize after some weeks. If stored in a sealed container it
may crystallize into the crevaces of the cap which could detonate from the
friction of opening. Mixing with RDX, PETN, or picric acid will improve the
stability of this explosive.
7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives):

Nitrogen triiodide, also called ammonium triiodide, is a very unstable
explosive that's not really practical due to its tremendous instability and
cost. When wet it is stable but when dry the touch of a feather can cause it
to detonate. Wet nitrogen triiodide should be spread out as much as possible
or numerous small piles made. When dry the nitrogen triiodide will not explode
from its own weight if spread out, a single large pile will.
The high cost of iodine, anywhere from $60 to $100 for a 500 g bottle, and
its rarity, make it impractical from an economic standpoint. Those useless
anarchist texts say iodine can be purchased in drug stores, it is sold in very
tiny amounts heavily diluted with alcohol. The drug dealers have made iodine a
restricted chemical, very few drug stores even carry it now, there are safer
alternatives. The simplicity in which this explosive can be made gives wanna
be punks an excuse to try. THIS EXPLOSIVE IS ONLY A CURIOSITY AND SHOULD NEVER
BE MADE EXCEPT FOR A CONTROLLED DEMONSTRATION AS ABOVE! Stories abound about
the dangers and ease of making nitrogen triiodide. There was a senior
undergraduate student (no not me) given full access to a lab who made some, it
exploded in a beaker showering him with glass. He was not wearing safety
goggles. By some miracle the glass embedded in his face did not rip his eyes
to shreds. Then there were the teenage hoodlums that stole some iodine from
their high school chem lab, made the nitrogen triiodide at home, and brought
it back to school. With a pop and puff of purple gas the teacher knew what it
was. A word of advise to them for next time: Leaving the instructions on top
of your desk in full view of teach will save you a lot of time scrubbing
iodine stains during your next suspension. It is best to leave it dry where
you want to detonate it ASAP.
CHEMICALS
ammonium hydroxide
iodine
water
APPARATUS
beaker
stirring rod
graduated cylinder
Nitrogen triiodide is formed when iodine atoms displace the hydrogen

atoms in ammonia NH3 + I = NI3. This reaction occurs when iodine crystals, I2
are soaked in excess ammonium hydroxide. To begin, select a small beaker or
even a disposable cup about 50-mL in capacity. This process may permanently
stain any container so I suggest the cup. Add 2 g of iodine crystals to the
beaker, crush them as much as possible with a stirring rod. Add 40 mL ammonium
hydroxide to the beaker. After 2 hours the reaction should be complete. Pour
the solution over a filter to collect the crystals, any excess can be rinsed
out of the beaker with water. Put the crystals where you want them immediately
because there only semblance of stability is when wet. Drying will take about
1 hour. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
7.3 FLASH POWDER:

Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is
very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and
slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or
detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with
a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about
$11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
Click here for info. on some of the dangers flash powder.
* For other flash powders, check out section-10.9 flash charges
7.4 BLACK POWDER:
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
potassium
nitrate (75 g)
clay grinding bowl

and clay grinder
or
or
sodium
nitrate (75 g)
wooden salad bowl

and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g)
plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g)
300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water
coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding

bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but
it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.
7.5 Yellow powder:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, post by The Silent Observer <silent1@ix.netcom.com.

It comes from a text of 'Samuel Guthrie' written in 1831. More about this
mixture can be found in Davis[10], page 30 and 31.
Comments: It is sometimes called "Fulminating powder". The mixture burns three
times quicker than common black powder.
Preparation: The compounds are sometimes molten together, which appears to be
a very dangerous operation.
Potassium nitrate................................3
Potassium carbonate...............................2
Sulfur............................................1
7.6 NITROCELLULOSE:
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas.
It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
cotton (cellulose)
two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated
nitric acid
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
blue litmus paper
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.
this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
Add to
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3

minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocellulose and prepare water to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES:

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
Oxodizer, % by weight
Fuel, % by weight
Speed #
Notes
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium chlorate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
friction/
impact
sensitive
rather unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sugar 35%
5
fairly slow
charcoal 15%
burning;
unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 25%
8
extremely
magnesium or
unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
magnesium or
8
unstable
aluminum dust 33%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sodium nitrate 65%
magnesium dust 30%
?
unpredictable
sulfur 5%
burn rate
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium permanganate 60%
glycerine 40%
delay before
ignition
depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
upon grain size
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 33%
5
unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium permangenate 60%
sulfur 20%
5
unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sugar 50%
3
?
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium nitrate 75%
charcoal 15%
7
this is
sulfur 10%
black powder!
______________________________________________________________________________
__
powdered iron
1
burns very hot
or
(thermite)
magnesium 40%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
phosphorus
8
used to make
sesquisulfide 25%
strike-anywhere
matches
______________________________________________________________________________
__
ammonium perchlorate 70%
aluminum dust 30%
6
solid fuel for
+ small amount of
space shuttle
iron oxide
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium perchlorate 67%
magnesium or
10
flash powder
(sodium perchlorate)
aluminum dust 33%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
magnesium or
8
alternate
aluminum dust 20%
flash powder
sulfur 20%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
barium nitrate 30%
aluminum dust 30%
9
alternate
flash powder
______________________________________________________________________________
__
barium peroxide 90%
magnesium dust 5%
10
alternate
aluminum dust 5%
flash powder
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 25%
8
slightly
magnesium or
unstable
aluminum dust 25%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
red phosphorus 27%
7
very
calcium carbonate 3%
sulfur 3%
unstable!
impact
sensitive
_____________________________________________________________________________
___
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25%
7
unstable;
aluminum or
ignites if
magnesium dust 25%
it gets wet!
______________________________________________________________________________
__
charcoal dust 15%
6
unstable
sulfur 10%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
NOTE:
Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.
7.8 PERCHLORATES:
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or
sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be
perchlorated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials
tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or
potassium hydroxide are ideal. See other percholates section in the chemicals
chapter.
8.0 High-order explosives:

Many of the explosives in this chapter are not mentioned in the
classification chart(section 3.1). These high-order explosives are extremely
powerful and are not to be under estimated. Almost any of these explosives
can be used to level a building, and can turn a car into thousands of small
pieces. And needless to say, if explosion happens next to you, youll most
likely die.
If you want to make HE's(high explosives), I STRONGLY suggest you get
firmly grounded in the use of LE's first, and read as much as you can (The
Explosives & Weapons Forum is a good place to look) first. Primary explosives
can be VERY dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced/foolish person, and
their manufacture and use is not to be taken lightly. Secondary explosives are
in most ways safer, but with potentially more dangerous synthesis procedures
(runaway reactions, NO2 gas etc).
8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives:

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been
used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and
mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. (*see section 6.21 for
the procedure on making potassium chlorate)
Materials:
-Potassium Chlorate
-Petroliom Jelly(Vaseline)
-Wax
-White Gasoline
Apparatus:
-plasic bowl
melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline
(camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.
Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results
in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly
decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade
explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the
processes in this article.
8.2 Lead Azide:

Lead azide is a common primary explosive used as a standard to compare
sensitivity among other primary explosives. Making lead azide is not a simple
task, this laboratory uses advanced techniques and equipment. Getting the
chemicals will be another task. Sodium azide is an unstable, therefore
regulated, material nearly impossible to get, it will need to be synthesized.
Lead azide is sensitive to heat, shock and friction. The addition of dextrin
to this lab prevents the formation of large crystals which can be very
dangerous.
CHEMICALS
dextrin
lead nitrate
sodium azide
sodium hydroxide
water
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
Buchner funnel
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
separatory funnel
stirring rod
thermometer
Dissolve 2.33 g of sodium azide and 0.058 g of sodium hydroxide in 70 mL

of water by shaking in a separatory funnel. This is solution A. Dissolve 6.9 g
of lead nitrate and 0.35 g of dextrin in 90 mL water in a 250-mL beaker, add 1
or 2 drops of 10% sodium hydroxide to bring the pH to about 5. This is
solution B. Heat solution B to 60-65 on a water bath and agitate it with a
plastic or hardwood stirring rod. The stirring should be as efficient as
possible to prevent the formation of large crystals. Stirring, while vigorous,
should not produce any spattering of the mixture and the stirring should not
rub against the walls of the beaker. The friction might cause some crystals to
explode. Add solution A dropwise to solution B while stirring. The addition
should take about 10 minutes. Remove the beaker from the water bath and
continue stirring the mixture in the beaker while cooling to room temperature,
this will take about 1 hour. Allow the precipitate of lead azide to settle and
pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals. Use suction
filtration with a Buchner funnel if possible. Add 150 mL of water to the
crystals to wash them, add the water in 50 mL increments. Dry the sample for
8-15 hours or longer, but no more than 24, at 65 C. The lead azide should
form small spherical crystals that are opaque in color. The yield should be
around 5 g. Store the lead azide moist in a rubber stoppered plastic bottle if
you must. If you do not have a separatory funnel for solution A, use a beaker
to prepare the solution and a pipet or buret to to add it to solution B. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to
monitor the temperature.
8.3 Lead Styphnate:

Lead styphnate, also called lead trinitroresorcinate, is an unstable
primary explosive that resists shock but will detonate readily from heat or
static. It is usually mixed with lead azide to improve its ability to detonate
from flame or electric ignition. The preparation of lead styphnate is easy,
but the chemicals used in its manufacture are of the kind only a lab would
use. Lead acetate and nitric acid can be obtained but magnesium styphnate will
be nearly impossible. Magnesium styphnate is derived from styphnic acid, or
2,4,6-trinitroresorcinol. Trinitro anything usually raises some danger flags,
and dangerous chemicals are forbidden. Until I locate the method of
preparation for styphnic acid, you will have to find some yourself.
CHEMICALS
lead acetate
APPARATUS
small beaker
magnesium styphnate
nitric acid
water
graduated cylinder
stirring rod
thermometer
Lead styphnate is prepared by adding a magnesium styphnate solution to

lead acetate solution in a small beaker while stirring, and keeping the
temperature at 70 C. A precipitate will form, keep stirring for 15 minutes.
After this time is up, add dilute nitric acid while stirring and cooling to 30
C with a salt-ice bath, keep stirring until this temperature is reached.
Collect the crystals on filter paper, wash with water, and allow them to dry
in the open. The crystals should be reddish brown or orange in color.
Notice the lack of quantities of chemicals. The source I obtained this
information from is reliable but sketchy. I suggest using 10 g of lead acetate
in 30 mL of water, and the same for magnesium styphnate, to make the
solutions. Add 10 mL of concentrated nitric acid to 70 mL of water for the
dilute acid. Keep in mind the danger these crystals may pose, keep the dried
crystals away from heat, friction, and shock. Store the crystals under water
if they are not going to be used immediately. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod for mixing, and a thermometer
to monitor the temperature.
8.4 Mercury Fulminate:

Mercury fulminate is an unstable primary explosive compound. It was first
prepared in the late seventeenth century by Johann Kunckel von Lwenstern by a
procedure very similar to the modern method presented here. Lwenstern
detailed mercury fulminate synthesis in his posthumously written Laboratorium
Chymicum, he used aqua fortis, spiritum vini, and in fimum equinum. That last
one is horse manure if you wanted to know. Mercury fulminate was first
patented by Alfred Nobel in 1867 for blasting caps. It is not used today for
that purpose because of more stable explosives from modern chemistry. Its
manufacture is not complicated nor the chemicals in its makeup rare. Mercury
can be extracted from a variety of products but it is very expensive. Only a
chemical supply company could provide mercury in useful quantities. This lab
produces nitrogen dioxide gas as a byproduct, this is a heavy red colored gas
that is extremely toxic. The gas will turn moisture in your lungs to nitric
acid and may cause fabric to ignite! This lab should be done outside or in a
fume hood if possible.
CHEMICALS
acetic acid
ammonium hydroxide
ethyl alcohol
mercury
nitric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
desiccator
100mL Erlenmeyer flask
graduated cylinder
In a 100mL Erlenmeyer flask, measure out 35 mL of 70% nitric acid, then

add 5 g of mercury metal. This mixture should be left alone without shaking or
stirring until all the mercury dissolves. Toxic gas will be produced. Keep the
flask in a well ventilated area, or stopper the flask and lead a length of
rubber tubing into water to safely dissolve the fumes. In a 500-mL beaker,
place 50 mL of 90% ethyl alcohol, then add the acid-mercury mix in a well
ventilated area. The temperature of the mixture will rise, a vigorous reaction
will commence, white fumes will be released, and crystals of mercury fulminate
should begin to precipitate. Red fumes of nitrogen dioxide will appear as the
precipitation becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction
moderates. After about 20 minutes the reaction should be over. Add water to
the beaker and carefully decant off most of the water without losing any
crystals. Add water and decant several times until the wash water is no longer
acid to litmus. Finally, pour the neutral solution over a filter to collect
the grayish-yellow crystals of mercury fulminate. The product may be purified
by dissolving in strong ammonium hydroxide, filtering, and re-precipitating by
the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed
with cold water, and stored in a container filled with water. Dry in a
desiccator immediately before use. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids.
8.5 Tetracene:
1-guanyl-4-nitrosoaminoguanyltetrazene, more conveniently called
tetracene, was first prepared back in 1910 by two scientists named Hoffmann
and Roth. It is a colorless pale yellow, fluffy material with slight
hygroscopic properties.
It is stable at normal temperatures when wet or dry, but decomposes in
boiling water. Tetracene is sensitive to friction, shock, and flame. Its
brisiance is greatest when it has not been compacted, so this compound can
easily become dead-pressed. Tetracene is not suited for blasting caps or alone
as an explosive since it does not detonate itself very efficiently. It is best
suited for booster charges or in blasting caps mixed with other explosives. It
can only achieve is full explosive potential if detonated by another explosive
charge. The only problem I have noted with this lab is the aminoguanidine
bicarbonate used as the main ingredient. I have found no literature whatsoever
to suggest that this substance exists although it is probably a rare analog of
aminoguanidine reacted with a bicarbonate substance, and given a non IUPAC
name.
CHEMICALS
acetic acid
aminoguanidine bicarbonate
sodium nitrite
water
APPARATUS
3-liter Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 34 g of aminoguanidine bicarbonate and 12.5 mL of

glacial acetic acid with 2500 mL of water in a 3-liter Florence flask. Gently
warm the flask on a steam bath and shake periodically until everything is
completely dissolved into solution. The solution should be filtered to remove
any impurities that may have not dissolved, then cooled to 30 C by running
cold water from the faucet over the flask. It is necessary to filter the
solution if there are impurities present. Add 27.6 g of sodium nitrite to the
solution while swirling to dissolve it. Set the flask aside at room
temperature for 3 or 4 hours then shake it vigorously to start precipitation
of the product. Let the flask stand for another 20 hours. After standing,
decant as much of the solution off as possible and drown the remaining
crystals with water. Decant and drown with water several more times to wash
the crystals. Filter the washed crystals to collect them and thoroughly wash
again with water. Dry the product at room temperature and store in a sealed
glass container to keep out the moisture. You will need a graduated cylinder
for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.6 AMATOL:
Materials:
-ammonium nitrate
-TNT
Description:
Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of
ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than
that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20%
TNT, to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting
charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form
dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed
in containers of such metals.
8.7 PETN:
PETN is an acronym for pentaerythritol tetranitrate, other names include
1,3-propanediol; 2,2-[bis-(nitroxy)methyl]-dinitrate; 2,2bis[(nitrooxy)methyl]-1,3-propanediol (ester); 2,2-bishydroxymethyl-1,3propanediol tetranitrate; nitropentaerythritol; niperyt; Lentrat; Hasethrol;
Peritrate; Mycardol; Nitropenton; Pentral 80; Dilcoran-80; Terpate; Perityl;
Pentritol; Pentanitrine; Prevangor; Subicard; Pentryate; Vasodiatol; NeoCorovas; Pentafin; Quintrate; Pergitral; Metranil; Cardiacap; Angitet;
dinitrate penta; niperyth; penthrit; penthrite; pentrit; nitropenta; NP; and
TEN.
While PETN can not be detonated by flame or fuse, it only burns in the
open air, it is very easily detonated by shock. A blow from a hammer, dropping
it on the floor, and using even a weak detonator will cause detonation. PETN
was first prepared in 1894 by the German company Rneinisch Westfalalische
Sprengstoff AG. PETN is used as the active ingredient in detonating cord,
detonating cord is like a fuse that burns as fast as electricity flows (as
fast as sound anyway, but that is only an analogy). The cord can slice a small
tree in half from the heat, it was wrapped around prisoners of war when no
shackles were handy. Anybody gets out of line... Ouch. PETN has also found
uses in blasting caps, grenade filler, as a sometime replacement for RDX,
mixed with plastics as a booster charge for insensitive explosives, and in
medicine as a vasodilator. Another nifty use for it is in sheet explosive,
like bed sheets, it can be used to harden and shape metals, wrap around
objects and all sorts of wonderful things. PETN is a rather common and stable
high explosive that is not very difficult to prepare. This lab will require
white nitric acid which you can make and pentaerythritol, also called
tetramethylol methane and 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol.
Pentaerythritol may have its uses in the paint industry but no use in the
hands of the public. I have a method of synthesizing it, but it is vague. I

will look for a better procedure.
CHEMICALS
acetone
nitric acid
pentaerythritol
sodium carbonate
water
APPARATUS
600-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
stirrer/stirring rod
thermometer
In a 600-mL beaker, add 400 mL of white nitric acid and cool to below 5C
in a salt-ice bath. White nitric acid is made by adding a small amount of urea
to fuming nitric acid then blowing dry air into the acid until it is
colorless. 100 g of finely ground pentaerythritol is slowly added to the acid
while stirring, keeping the temperature below 5C. After all of the
pentaerythritol has been added, the stirring and cooling are continued for 15
minutes. The mixture is then dumped in about 3 L of ice water. The crude
product that should have formed is filtered to collect it, washed with water,
and submerged in 1 L of hot 0.5% sodium carbonate solution for 1 hour. The
crystals are again collected on a filter, washed with water, and allowed to
dry. These washings are important to remove all traces of acid. To obtain a
pure product, dissolve the crystals in hot acetone, allow to cool, then add an
equal volume of water as you have of acetone. Filter to collect the crystals,
wash with water, and allow 24 hours to dry. You will need a graduated cylinder
for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a
thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.8 RDX:
RDX, or cyclonite, is a very insensitive high explosive compound. The
actual chemical name is cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine, although the chemical
names hexahydro-1,3,5-trinitro-1,3,5-triazine; Hexogen;
trimethylenetrinitramine; sym-trimethylenetrinitramine ;Hexolite; 1,3,5trinitrohexahydro-p-triazine; 1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-s-triazine;
cyclotrimrthylene-trinitramine; 1,3,5-triaza-1,3,5-trinitrocyclohexane;
trinitrohexahydrotriazine; and T4 are also used.
RDX itself stands for Royal Demolition Explosive and comes from Great
Britain, cyclonite is the American usage, Hexogen is for Germans, and T4 is
Italian. RDX is a very powerful military explosive that can be stored for long
periods of time and handled safely. RDX is usually mixed with other explosives
and plasticizers to make a variety of useful compositions for military and
civilian use, C-4 and Semtex are two such compounds. It seems so much RDX is
made that most scientific books give industrial schematics for thousands of
pounds instead of lab preparations. The laboratory methods here are not as
efficient as in industry, but are fine. The first method uses methenamine, or
hexamethylenetetramine, which can be purchased as heating tablets or
synthesized in the lab. The second makes use of acetic anhydride, forbidden by
the DEA, but it can be synthesized as well.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
acetone
ammonium nitrate
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
methenamine
nitric acid
thermometer
paraformaldehyde
sodium bicarbonate
water
Put 335 mL of 100% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker, cool the acid to below
30 C by setting the beaker in a salt-ice bath. The nitric acid must be as
concentrated as possible, it must also be free of nitrogen oxides. Slowly add
75 g of methenamine in small portions to the acid while stirring. The
temperature must be kept between 20 C to 30 C during the addition. Once all
of the methenamine has dissolved, slowly heat it to 55 C while stirring, hold
it to between 50-55 C for 5 minutes, keep stirring. Now cool the mix to 20 C
then let it sit for 15 minutes. After standing, it is gradually diluted with
three or four times its volume of cool water, this should precipitate the RDX
from solution. Depending on how the gods of chemistry feel about your reaction
it may take from minutes to hours to fully precipitate all of the RDX. Decant
most of the liquid then add 1 L of 5% sodium bicarbonate solution to
neutralize the remaining acid. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals of
RDX that should have formed. Wash them with cold water, then with hot 5%
sodium bicarbonate solution, and again with water. The RDX can be dried at
room temperature or in an oven. Further purification can be accomplished by
recrystallizing from acetone. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to
The second procedure is as follows: Place 260 mL acetic anhydride in a
1000-mL beaker and add 105 g powdered ammonium nitrate while stirring. Heat
the beaker to 90 C and remove the source of heat. Very slowly add 38 g of
paraformaldehyde to the beaker, this addition will release toxic and flammable
fumes, use a fume hood or go to an open area. After the addition, add the
contents of the beaker to twice its volume of cold water to precipitate
crystals of RDX. Filter the solution to collect the crystals and wash them
with cold water then boiling water. The RDX can be purified by dissolving in
the minimum amount of acetone then diluting with cold water. Filter the
crystals to collect them and allow to dry in the open air.
8.9 COMPOSITION C-1:

This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive
that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the 'C' explosive of choice
for home manufacture due to its ease of manufacture and the more easily
obtained compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks.
The explosive was standardized and adopted in the
following composition:
R. D. X.
Heavy Mineral Oil
Lecithin
88.3 %
11.1 %
0.6 %
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of

large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the
explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power. It is relatively non -
toxic except if ingested and is plastic from 0-40 deg. C.. Above 40 deg., the
explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive
properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 deg. C., it becomes brittle and
its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Weighing all pros and cons, this
is the explosive of choice for the kitchen explosives factory due to the
simple manufacture of the plastique compound.
Manufacturing this explosive can be done in two ways. The first is to
dissolve the 11.1 % plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.
D. X. and then allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of
all gasoline. All percentages are by weight.
The second method is the fairly simple kneading of the plasticizing
compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive
should be stored in a cool dry place. If properly made, the plastique should
be very stable in storage, even if stored at elevated temperatures for long
periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive as compared to other
millitary explosives. With this explosive, as mentioned earlier, a booster
will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 deg. C.. The detonation
velocity of this explosive should be around 7900 M/sec..

Composition C-2 was developed due to the undesirable
aspects of composition 'C'. lt was formerly used by the United States armed
forces, but has been replaced by C-3 and C-4. lt's composition is much the
same as C-3 and it's manufacture is thc safe also.
I won't go into much detail on this explosive because of its highly
undesirable traits. lt is harder to make than C-4 and is toxic to handle. lt
also is unstable in storage and is a poor choice for home explosives
manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either C-4 or C-3.
But for those of you that are interested, I will give the composition of this
explosive anyway. It is manufactured in
a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in
incorporation of C-3. Its composition is as follows:
R.D.X.
80 %
(Equal parts of thc following:)

Mononitrotolulene
Dinitrotolulene
T.N.T. guncotton
Dimethylformide
20 %

This explosive was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of
C-2. It was standardized and adopted by the military as the following
composition:
R. D. X.
77 %
Mononitrotolulene
16 %
Dinitrotolulene
5 %
Tetryl
1 %
Nitrocellose (guncotton) 1 %
C-3 is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam
jacketed
melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring
attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 deg. C. and the stirrer is
activated. Water wet R.D.X.
is added to the plasticizing agent and the stirring is continued until a
uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat
source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room
temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T.. Storage at
65 deg. C. for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair its
explosive properties. C-3 is 133% as good as an explosive as is T.N.T.. The
major drawback of C-3 is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of it's
weight although the explosive's detonation properties are not affected. Water
does not affect the explosive's
performance. It therefore is very good for U.D.T. uses and would be a good
choice for these applications. When stored at 77 deg. C., considerable
extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 deg. C. and is hard to
detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduly toxic, it
should be handled with utmost care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which
are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6
blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has
a great blast effect and was and still is available is standard demolition
blocks. It's detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M / sec..

C-4 was developed because of the hardening and toxicity that made C-3
unreliable and dangerous due to the dinitrotolulene plastisizer. The following
composition is the standardized plastique explosive as adopted by the armed
forces:
R.D.X.
Polyisobutylene
Motor Oil
Di-(2-ethylhexy)sebecate
91.0 %
2.1 %
1.6 %
5.3 %
The last three ingredients are dissolved in unleaded gasoline. The

R.D.X. explosive base is then added to the gasoline-plasticizer and the
resultant mass in allowed to evaporate until the gasoline is completely gone
(this can be done quickly and efficiently under a vacuum).
The final product should be dirty white to light brown in color. It
should have no odor and have a density of 1.59 gm/cc. It does not harden at
-57 deg. C. and does not undergo extrudation at 77 deg. C.. It can be reliably
detonated with a #6 blasting cap.
The bristance of this explosive (ability to do work or fragment
ordinance) is 120% greater than T.N.T.. C-4 is the best plastique explosive
available in the world and probably will remain so for quite some time. This
is the #1 demolition explosive in the world and if you've never seen this
stuff used it is absolutely amazing. The detonation velocity of C-4 is 8100

M/sec..
8.13 Ammonium Picrate:

Ammonium picrate, also called 2,4,6-trinitrophenol ammonium salt, ammonium
trinitrophenolate, Dunnite, or Explosive D, is prepared in much the same way
as nitrogen triiodide. Ammonium picrate was first prepared in 1841 by a
scientist named Marchand. It was not used until 1869 when it was mixed with
potassium nitrate as a propellent for rifles. Alfred Nobel patented it in 1888
for Dynamites. The US Army picked it up in 1901, and the Navy floated it in
1907. It saw peak production during WWII but has since fallen victim to
progress in chemistry. This explosive is relatively stable, therefore safer to
prepare and handle. The only real problem is getting ahold of picric acid
which is a regulated explosive chemical. Very few laboratories still use life
threatening carcinogens like benzene or explosives like picric acid. That
means even if you have the authorization to purchase chemicals you will have a
hard time getting any. Not to worry, I have included the preparation of picric
acid. Benzene is another matter unfortunately.
CHEMICALS
ammonium hydroxide
picric acid
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
hotplate
2,4,6-Trinitrophenol ammonium salt is formed when the ammonium ion, NH4+,

attaches itself to the phenol group, OH, of picric acid. I suppose the H from
OH is stripped away making O- that balances the positive ammonium ion. To
make, dissolve picric acid in excess ammonium hydroxide. Add 1 g of picric
acid to a 250-mL beaker then add 100 mL of hot concentrated ammonium
hydroxide. Once the picric acid has dissolved, some will precipitate out of
solution upon cooling. The liquid must be evaporated to fully precipitate the
crystals. Evaporation can be accelerated by heating the solution on a hotplate
or in a heated pan of water. More ammonium picrate can be prepared at once by
using the same 1:100 ratio of grams picric acid to milliliters ammonium
hydroxide. You will need a graduated cylinder to measure the liquid.
The pure substance occurs in two forms, a stable form which is bright
yellow and a less stable form which is bright red. The crystals which separate
here are the red form. The yellow form can be procured by recrystallizing the
red several times from water. The red form will eventually change into the
yellow form if stored as a concentrated solution. Keep this material as dry as
possible.
8.14 HMX:
HMX is a very powerful military explosive with similar properties to RDX,
the other great military explosive with which it is often mixed. HMX is
technically called octahydro-1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazocine, other
names include 1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazacyclooctane;

cyclotetramethylene tetranitramine; and octogen. HMX is itself an acronym for
either High velocity Military eXplosive, or Her Majesties eXplosive depending
on what country you are in. HMX is very stable, it requires a powerful
detonator or booster charge to detonate. It was first developed during WWII in
the never ending search for more powerful bombs.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic acid
500/1000-mL beaker
acetic anhydride
500-mL Florence flask
ammonium nitrate
graduated cylinder
methenamine
nitric acid
thermometer
paraformaldehyde
water
Prepare a solution of 748 mL of glacial acetic acid, 12 mL of acetic
anhydride, and 17 g of paraformaldehyde, keep this solution at 44 C while
mixing. Prepare a second solution of 217.6 g of ammonium nitrate and 154.6 mL
of 99% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker. Prepare a third solution of 101 g of
methenamine, 157 mL of glacial acetic acid, and 296 mL of acetic anhydride in
a 1000-mL beaker. Combine the third solution with 112.5 mL of the second
solution. Add this combined solution to the first solution over a 15 minute
period while stirring rapidly. After the addition, continue stirring for an
additional 15 minutes. Next, carefully add 296 mL of acetic anhydride, then
carefully add the remainder of the second solution, then add another 148 mL of
acetic anhydride, all while stirring. Continue the stirring for 1 hour more.
After stirring, add 350 mL of hot water and reflux the whole works for 30
minutes. After this time, cool the liquid down to 20 C by adding ice. Decant
off as much of the liquid from the precipitate as possible and drown the
remaining crystals with cold water. Filter to collect the crystals of HMX and
wash them with three portions of cold water, allow to dry. The yield is about
95%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod
or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Owing to the large volume of reactants in this lab, in excess of 2.5 L,
it is necessary to use a 5-L flask, unfortunately this is beyond most
laboratories, and especially the home chemist. This reaction can be carried
out in a glass gallon jug or similar large capacity glass container. The
refluxing step can be done in portions using a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence
flask.
8.15 Nitrated Petroleum:
This explosive procedure intrigues me because what chemical can be more
readably available than gasoline, or for that matter motor oil, kerosine, and
diesel. The nitration of petroleum generally produces either brown noncrystalline solids or liquid products that are explosive. The first attempts
to nitrate petroleum were made in Russia at the end of the 19th century by one
Dr. Konovaloff. Dilute nitric acid under pressure was used to nitrate the
product, obtaining very low yields. In 1902 a nitration method patented by
Edeleanu and Filti used mixed nitric-sulfuric acids, unfortunately for them no
practical application of their patent was found. Others tried using different
kinds of petroleum like A.S. Flexer, Freund, and Kharichkov to name a few. Not
that it matters who they are, but I like to know. You may experiment yourself
on everything from crude oil to that stuff you get at the hardware store for
oil lamps. Things are screwed up nowadays, all of the good chemical additives
that make petroleum nitrateable seem to be getting legislated by the
government (only the democrat oppressors). This lab may have worked for
scientists a hundred years ago, but it may not work for you today.
CHEMICALS
gasoline
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Standard gasoline, get the cheap stuff and not gasahol (gas/ethyl alcohol
mix) if you can avoid it, is added gradually to a mixture of 15 parts 100%
sulfuric acid and 3 parts 100% nitric acid in a large beaker. Add 1 part of
gasoline per 18 parts of mixed acid. The reaction temperature should be
somewhat cool, never let the temperature rise above 80 C. A temperature below
20 C should do, you can regulate this with a salt-ice bath. When the
nitration is completed, the mixture is diluted with a large quantity of cold
water to precipitate the product. The un-nitrated oil will float to the top of
the acid-water solution. Collect the precipitate on a filter and wash with
water, yield will be 30% to 90% depending on the crude oil used to manufacture
the gasoline. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a
8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride:

Nitrogen trichloride, also called nitrogen chloride, agene, chlorine
nitride, trichloramine, trichlorine nitride, chloride of azode, or
Stickstofftrichlorid, is an unstable primary explosive compound. Its
preparation is not complicated and the chemicals used are simple, cheap, and
readily obtainable. You could pump the stuff out by the liter if it was not so
sensitive. Nitrogen trichloride will explode if heated, exposed to sunlight,
or mixed with organic compounds. It does not like to be friendly around many
other chemicals, shock, sparks, and it will explode if frozen and thawed. The
explosive properties were first reported in the 18th century by Sir H. Davy,
he had this to say: "The fulminating oil which you mentioned roused my
curiosity and nearly deprived me of an eye. After some months of confinement I
am again well." Ouch, that must have hurt.
CHEMICALS
ammonium nitrate
chlorine
water
APPARATUS
bubbler
200-mL Erlenmeyer flask
graduated cylinder
medicine dropper
Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 70 mL water in a 200-mL Erlenmeyer

flask. Prepare a chlorine generator as described in the synthesis section.
Place a tube connected to the generator at the bottom of the flask so the
chlorine gas can bubble into the liquid, a bubbler will help a lot with the
reaction. Gently heat the flask to start the reaction while adding chlorine
gas. An oily yellow liquid will begin to appear on the bottom of the flask,
that is the nitrogen trichloride. Stop heating the flask when the drops
appear. After 20 to 30 minutes the reaction should be complete. Use a medicine
dropper to extract the nitrogen trichloride from the flask, transfer it to a
small test tube and remove any water accidently sucked up with it. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids. This explosive will decompose
within 24 hours of its preparation.
8.17 Tetryl:
Tetryl has a variety of names including nitramine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6tetranitrobenzenamine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitroaniline;
picrylmethylnitramine; picrylnitromethylamine; 2,4,6trinitrophenylmethylnitramine; tetralite; and pyronite.
Tetryl is a stable explosive capable of being handled reasonably safe,
yet it is still sensitive enough to be used in blasting caps or booster
charges. It was first developed in 1889 by the scientists Michler and Meyer
and studied in some detail thereafter. It can be heated either in the open or
in solvents causing mere decomposition, usually to picric acid. Tetryl is more
powerful then even TNT, although the lesser stability compared to TNT makes it
less attractive to the military. You must keep tetryl in the dark and away
from the skin, it will stain skin and hair yellow as well as cause itching or
worse.
CHEMICALS
benzene
N,N-dimethylaniline
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
magnetic stirrer
separatory funnel
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 20 mL of N,N-dimethylaniline and 130 mL of 99-100%

sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker placed in a salt-ice bath. Keep the
temperature below 25 C while mixing this solution. Pour the solution into a
separatory funnel and slowly add it, drop by drop, to a 500-mL Erlenmeyer
flask containing 160 mL of 80% nitric acid that has been previously heated to
55-60 C. During the addition, stir continually with a magnetic stirrer, and
maintain the temperature between 65-70 C. The addition should require about 1
hour. After the addition, continue stirring and maintain the temperature at
65-70 C for an additional hour. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature
and the crystals of tetryl to precipitate. Decant as much of the acid as
possible and drown the remaining crystals with water. Filter to collect the
crystals and wash thoroughly with water to remove traces of acid. Add the
washed crystals to a beaker of 240 mL of water and boil for 1 hour,
continually add water to replace any that boils away, maintaining a constant
volume. Again filter to collect the tetryl, add the crystals to a beaker and
add enough water to cover the surface, grind these crystals to as fine a paste
as possible. Add water equal to twelve times the weight of the crystals and
boil for 12 hours. Repeat this with a fresh batch of water and boil for
another 4 hours. Filter to collect the crystals and allow them to dry. After
drying, add just enough benzene to dissolve the crystals then filter to remove
any undissolved impurities. Allow the benzene to evaporate then recrystallize

the tetryl residue from ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.18 Trinitrobenzene(TNB):
1,3,5-trinitrobenzene, also known as sym-trinitrobenzene; strinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzeen; trinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzol; benzite;
Rcra waste number U234; or just TNB, is a stable high explosive compound with
slightly greater explosive force than TNT. There are two other isomers of
trinitrobenzene, namely 1,2,4- and 1,2,3- , but they are less stable and
harder to form.
Trinitrobenzene is very poisonous, causing severe skin irritation, so it
is best to use every precaution when handling it. The good qualities of
trinitrobenzene are its high stability, great explosive power, and low
sensitivity to friction and impact. On the down side, this procedure is not
exactly an economical choice since it uses perfectly good TNT as the main
ingredient.
This procedure is a variant of the original that dates back to 1893 when
the German scientists Tiemann, Claus, and Becker observed that trinitrotoluene
can be oxidized with nitric acid to trinitrobenzoic acid, and the latter being
readily decarboxylated to form sym-trinitrobenzene:
This lab substitutes sulfuric acid and a chromium compound for nitric
acid, the reaction is the same either way. There are other methods of forming
TNB but this procedure is the easiest and has the highest yield.
CHEMICALS
sodium dichromate
sulfuric acid
trinitrotoluene
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
small beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a mixture of 30 g of purified trinitrotoluene and 300 mL of 95100% sulfuric acid in a tall 500-mL beaker. Slowly add, with stirring,
powdered sodium dichromate in small portions, do not allow any lumps to form
or powder to rise to the surface. When the temperature of the mixture reaches
40 C, place the baker into a cold water bath. Continue adding dichromate,
while stirring, until a total of 45 g has been added, maintain the temperature
between 40-50 C at all times. After the addition, continue stirring and
maintaining the temperature between 40-50 C for 2 hours. After this time,
allow the mixture to cool undisturbed to room temperature over a 12 hour
period. Crystals of trinitrobenzoic acid should have formed. Decant off as
much of the acidic liquid as possible, then drown the crystals in water.
Filter the crystals to collect them, wash with cold water, then transfer them
to a small beaker. Add just enough 50 C water to dissolve the crystals.
Filter this solution hot to remove any undissolved impurities, then boil it
until no more crystals precipitate. Allow the solution to cool, filter to
collect the crystals, then wash them with water. These should be colorless to
greenish yellow crystals of trinitrobenzene. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing,
and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT):
2,4,6-trinitrotoluene, or just TNT, is the oft used military and
industrial explosive that may be the among the best recognized explosive
around. Other names for TNT include: trinitrotoluol; sym-trinitrotoluene; atrinitrotoluol; 2-methyl-1,3,5-trinitrobenzene; entsufon; 1-methyl-2,4,6trinitrobenzene; methyltrinitrobenzene; tolite; trilit; s-trinitrotoluene; strinitrotoluol; trotyl; sym-trinitrotoluol; alpha-trinitrotoluol; tolite;
triton; tritol; trilite; tri; tutol; trinol; fllpulver 1902; Fp02; tritolo;
trillit; tolita; tol; and trotil.
TNT was first synthesized in 1863 by a scientist named Wilbrand who
treated toluene with sulfuric and nitric acid at near boiling temperatures.
Although there are several isomers of trinitrotoluene, only the 2,4,6- isomer
is of importance. Pure TNT is in the form of small columns or needles and is
insoluble in water. It is quite stable, being meltable ,or able to act like a
plastic at around 50 C. TNT can even be boiled although the experiments did
this under reduced pressure (50mm Hg) to lower the boiling point to around 245
C. The normal detonation temperature is 333 C, the calculated boiling point
at normal atmospheric pressure is 345 C, so don't do it. Some experiments
have determined that the presence of foreign material like 1.9% of Fe2O3 will
lower the amount of time it takes for TNT to explode once it reaches its
critical temperature, or 295 C, the temperature at which decomposition
begins. Also, mixing pure sulfur with TNT will lower the initiation
temperature and increase the explosive power. For example, pure TNT explodes
at 333 C, 5% sulfur explodes at 304 C, 10% sulfur at 294 C, 20% sulfur at
284 C, and 30% sulfur at 275 C. The increase in explosive power is gained
through the addition of 5-10% sulfur. Because the stability of TNT is so
great, it is harder to detonate it, the sensitivity increases somewhat above
80 C, but is still rather low even when molten. A powerful blasting cap, or
booster charge, will be needed to detonate TNT. This lab is carried out in
three separate operations, forming mononitrotoluene, then dinitrotoluene, and
finally trinitrotoluene.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ethyl alcohol 100/500/600-mL beaker
nitric acid
Buchner funnel
sodium bisulfite
graduated cylinder
sulfuric acid pipet/buret
toluene
separatory funnel
water
thermometer
Prepare a nitrating solution of 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 105 mL of
75% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a salt-ice bath. Mix the acids very
slowly to avoid the generation of too much heat. Allow the mixture to cool to
room temperature. The acid mixture is slowly added dropwise, with a pipet or
buret, to 115 mL of toluene in a 600-mL beaker while stirring rapidly.
Maintain the temperature of the beaker during the addition at 30-40 C by
using either a cold water or salt-ice bath. The addition should require 60-90
minutes. After the addition, continue stirring for 30 minutes without any
cooling, then let the mixture stand for 8-12 hours in a separatory funnel. The
lower layer will be spent acid and the upper layer should be mononitrotoluene,
drain the lower layer and keep the upper layer.
Dissolve one-half of the previously prepared mononitrotoluene and 60 mL

of 95% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a cold water bath. Prepare a
nitrating solution of 30 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 36.5 mL of 95% nitric
acid in a 100-mL beaker. Preheat the beaker of mononitrotoluene to 50 &Deg;C.
Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the beaker of mononitrotoluene, with a
pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of
addition to keep the temperature of the reaction between 90-100 C. The
addition will require about 1 hour. After the addition, continue stirring and
maintaining the temperature at 90-100 C for 2 hours. If the beaker is allowed
to stand, a layer of dinitrotoluene will separate, it is not necessary to
separate the dinitrotoluene from the acid in this step.
While stirring the beaker of dinitrotoluene, heated to 90 C, slowly add
80 mL of 100% fuming sulfuric acid, containing about 15% SO3, by pouring from
a beaker. Prepare a nitrating solution of 40 mL of 100% sulfuric acid, with
15% SO3, and 50 mL of 99% nitric acid. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to
the beaker of dinitrotoluene, with a pipet or buret, drop by drop while
stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of addition to keep the temperature of the
reaction between 100-115 C. It may become necessary to heat the beaker after
three-quarters of the acid has been added in order to sustain the 100-115 C
temperature. The addition will require about 90-120 minutes. Maintain the
stirring and temperature at 100-115 C for 2 hours after the addition is
complete. Allow the beaker to sit undisturbed for 8-12 hours, it should form a
solid mass of trinitrotoluene crystals. Pour the contents of the beaker over a
Buchner funnel without any filter paper to collect the bulk of the crystals,
save the acidic filtrate as well. Break up the collected crystals and wash
them with water to remove any excess acid. Add the collected acid and wash
filtrates to a large volume of water, this will cause any remaining
trinitrotoluene to precipitate. Decant off as much of the water as possible
and combine these crystals with the previous ones on the funnel. Drown the
crystals in a large volume of water, filter to collect them, and wash several
times with water. Wash the crystals by adding them to a beaker of water, heat
the water enough to melt the crystals while stirring rapidly. Repeat the
melting and stirring with a fresh batch of water three or four times to wash
thoroughly. After the last washing, the trinitrotoluene is granulated by
allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued.
Filter to collect the crystals and allow to dry. The TNT can be further
purified by recrystallizing from ethyl alcohol, dissolve the crystals in 60 C
and allow the solution to cool slowly. A second method of purification is to
digest the TNT in 5 times its weight of 5% sodium bisulfite solution heated to
90 C while stirring rapidly for 30 minutes. Wash the crystals with hot water
until the washings are colorless, then allow the crystals to granulate as
before. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring
rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.20 Silver Fulminate:

Silver fulminate is a very sensitive primary explosive compound. It is
most often found in "bang snaps" and other novelty pyrotechnic objects. Only
very tiny amounts of silver fulminate should be prepared at once, the weight
of the crystals can cause them to self detonate. Silver fulminate was first
prepared in 1800 by Edward Howard in his research project to prepare a large
variety of fulminates. For 200 years it has been only useful as a curiosity
explosive in toys and tricks.
CHEMICALS
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
silver
water
APPARATUS
100/500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Heat 8 mL of 70% nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker to 35-38 C. Add 1 g of

silver metal to the acid. While the silver is dissolving it will produce toxic
nitrogen dioxide fumes, use a fume hood or get to a well ventilated area. Some
heating may be required to get all of the silver to dissolve. Put 15 mL of 95%
ethyl alcohol in a 500-mL beaker set into a salt-ice bath. After the silver
has dissolved, slowly add the solution to the alcohol while keeping the
temperature below 18 C. More toxic nitrogen dioxide will be released. The
reaction should require about 25-30 minutes to complete, after which 200 mL of
cold water is added to precipitate the silver fulminate. Decant off as much of
the liquid as possible then drown the crystals with water. Filter to collect
the crystals and wash them with 30 mL of ethyl alcohol. Flour or starch can be
added to the crystals before filtering to add some degree of stability. Store
the silver fulminate away from sunlight as it can decompose. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.21 ANFO:
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, kerosene, or diesel. The kerosene
keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.
*it's pretty difficult to make it go off. if you know alot about electrics and
you can get the temperature up to 500C then it's not a problem. 25 KG (50lbs)
ammonium nitrate costs around $14. and diesel costs about $1 dollar per litre
(2 pounds). so it's VERY cheap. and VERY powerful. as long as you can make it
go off.
*ANFO have to be stored in dry, indoor stores by temperature from minus 35C
to 35C up to 3 months from the date of manufacturing.
8.22 DNPA:
DNPA is the acronym for 4,4-dinitropimelic acid, another name is 4,4dinitro-1,7-heptanedioic acid. This explosive is fairly stable to heat and
shock as well as being storable at room temperature. While it is an explosive
itself, it is usually used to manufacture polynitroaliphatic explosives and
propellents. It may be more useful to polymerize this compound into the

polyester polymer 4,4-dinitropimelyl chloride and 2,2-dinitro-1,3-propanediol.
CHEMICALS
charcoal
ethyl ether
hydrochloric acid
methyl alcohol
methyl acrylate
potassium dinitroethanol
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
Preparation is by two steps, the first forms the dimethyl ester of DNPA,
and the second hydrolyzes it. In the first step, 1200 mL of methyl acrylate is
added dropwise, with a pipet or buret, while stirring with a magnetic stirrer
or stirring rod, to an aqueous solution of 2.5 moles of potassium
dinitroethanol at room temperature inside a large beaker. The addition is
completed in 3 hours with 8 more hours of stirring required to complete the
reaction. After completion of the stirring , the ester that should have formed
is extracted several times with ethyl ether, decolorized with charcoal, and
the ethyl ether is removed under vacuum. The impure ester is then
recrystallized from methyl alcohol. The second step hydrolyzes 39 g of the
ester by refluxing it with 350 mL of 18% hydrochloric acid for several hours.
After cooling, the 4,4-dinitropimelic acid is crystallized by adding water.
The total yield based on potassium dinitroethanol is 55-56%. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
8.23 Nitroguanidine:
Nitroguanidine, sometimes written as nitroguanadine, is a stable primary
explosive compound. The explosive power and insensitivity of this chemical
make it comparable to high explosives like TNT and a good choice for
preparation if your safety skills are not fully established. Unfortunately,
the preparation of guanidine nitrate, the main precursor for nitroguanidine,
can be hampered as its precursors are difficult to obtain. This of course
leads to the synthesis of nitroguanidine being hampered as well. With that
aside, nitroguanidine is very simple to synthesize, requiring only sulfuric
acid to react with. There are two crystalline forms of nitroguanidine, an
alpha and a beta. Although there is little difference between the two forms,
the alpha is the simpler to synthesize, the beta will quickly convert to the
alpha anyway.
CHEMICALS
guanidine nitrate
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
In a 1000-mL beaker add 500 mL of 98% or greater sulfuric acid, then cool
the flask in a salt-ice bath to 10C or below. Slowly add 400 g of dry
guanidine nitrate to the acid while stirring, keeping the temperature of the
mixture below 10 C. The mixture should have a milky appearance, allow it to
stand at room temperature, while occasionally stirring, until it is
homogeneous and free from crystals. This may require anywhere from 15 to 20
hours. After the wait, pour the mixture into a large beaker of ice and water,
this will cause nitroguanidine to precipitate out of solution. After one hour
of standing, with cooling in the salt-ice bath, all the crystals should have
precipitated. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals, rinse them with
water to remove any acid that may be behind, then dissolve them in 4 liters of
boiling water. Allow the water to cool for 12 to 24 hours and the crystals
should precipitate. Pour the water over a filter to collect the crystals, and
then allow them to dry. The nitroguanidine formed can be stored safely and
will not decompose. The yield is about 90%. You will need a graduated cylinder
8.24 Astrolite:
Astrolite is not a chemical compound but rather a two component high
explosive mixture. Its claim to fame is it has the highest explosive velocity
of all chemical explosives, a distant second only to a nuclear blast, a claim
that is entirely false. Only that anarchist crap still thinks that Astrolite
is super powerful. The truth is, its low density makes it unlikely to achieve
a detonation comparable to more common explosives Astrolite G is a mixture of
ammonium nitrate and hydrazine, Astrolite A adds aluminum powder to the mix
for extra power. Hydrazine is a very toxic, corrosive, and dangerous chemical
that you will never be able to get. The fumes can kill you in seconds if
breathed in a confined area. I have devoted a section to hydrazine and its
safety in the chemical synthesis section.
CHEMICALS
aluminum powder
ammonium nitrate
hydrazine
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
stirring rod
To make Astrolite G, add 200 g of ammonium nitrate to a large beaker and

stir in 100 mL of hydrazine, mix well. For Astrolite A add 40 g of aluminum
powder to the Astrolite G mixture. It is best to make the mixture immediately
before use because the ammonium nitrate becomes sensitive to detonation once
hydrazine is added. Professional blasters make their mixtures in the field at
the blast site for greater safety. Each component is measured out in separate
containers, transported to the site, mixed, allowed to sit for 20 minutes, and
detonated. As separate components they are very safe (well as safe as
hydrazine can get) and the mixing is easy. Astrolite can be detonated even
when it has been poured out on the ground and left for 4 days. More Astrolite
can be prepared by observing a 2:1 ratio of ammonium nitrate to hydrazine by
weight and 1:5 of aluminum powder to ammonium nitrate by weight. You will need
a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids and a stirring rod for mixing.
8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene:
During the early chemical industry days of World War I there was a lot of
spare chlorine floating about and there was a big demand for benzene which
made it cheap and available. Put em together and you get chlorobenzene and
dichlorobenzene,of which p-dichlorobenzene is a type of mothball still used
today. The nitration of chlorobenzene was started around 1862 by A. Riche.
Dinitrodichlorobenzene was first manufactured as an explosive called parazol.
It was mixed with with TNT in shells but did not detonate completely. Instead,
the unexploded portion was atomized in the air and was a vigorous itchproducer and lachrymator (causes tears like mace), it also yielded some
phosgene gas which was a dreadful chemical weapon used back then.
Dinitrochlorobenzene finds more use as an ingredient in the manufacture of
other explosives than as an actual explosive itself, although it has been
mixed with picric acid for use in shells. Avoid contact with the solid and
vapors of this chemical, it causes severe itching, as well as weakness, low
blood count, digestive organ damage, and heart failure. The proper name of
this compound is 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene for the most abundant isomer, and
2-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene for the other isomer. Other names include 2,4dinitro-1-chlorobenzene;
2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene;
1,3-dinitro-4chlorobenzene; chlorodinitrobenzene; DNCB; and 4-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene.
CHEMICALS
chlorobenzene
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
thermometer
90 mL of chlorobenzene is added dropwise with a dropper pipet or buret to

a previously prepared, and cooled to room temperature, mixture of 110 mL of
99% nitric acid and 185 mL of 99% sulfuric acid, in a 1000-mL beaker, while
the mixture is stirred mechanically with a magnetic stirrer. A stirrer is
essential for the length of time required, you may try this by hand with a
stirring rod at your own risk. The temperature will rise because of the heat
of the reaction, but should not be allowed to go above 50-55 C. After all the
chlorobenzene has been added, the temperature is slowly raised to 95 C and is
kept there for 2 hours longer while the stirring is continued. An upper layer
of light yellow liquid solidifies when cold. The layer is removed, broken up
under water, and rinsed. The spent acid, on dilution with water, will
precipitate an additional quantity of dinitrochlorobenzene. All the product is
brought together, washed with cold water, then several times with hot water
while it is melted, and once more with cold water under which it is crushed.
Finally, it is drained and allowed to dry at room temperature. The product,
melting at about 50 C, consists largely of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene, along
with a small quantity of the 2,6-dinitro compound, m.p. 87-88 C. The two
substances are equally suitable for manufacture of other explosives or alone
as an explosive. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and
a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.26 HMTD:
HMTD, or hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine, is a somewhat unstable primary
explosive compound. Its extreme sensitivity to heat, shock, and friction make
HMTD a poor choice for the lesser skilled home chemist. This lab uses hydrogen
peroxide at 30% concentration, it is possible to use the more common 3%
concentration by adding ten times as much. The hexamethylenetetramine used
here, also called hexamine, methenamine, or urintropine, can be purchased as
"heating tablets." As to what heating tablets are... They are used in camping
and in the military for heating meals, or hand warmers. It is very unlikely
that you will find this anymore, so synthesize your own as described in the
chemical synthesis section. HMTD has been used as a detonator, it is safer and
more powerful than mercury fulminate or acetone peroxide. It is stable when
compared to other primary explosives, and it is one of the safest explosive
peroxides. HMTD should be kept cool and dry as it may evaporate or decompose,
it should also be kept away from metals as it will corrode them. HMTD will
detonate if struck, but will only burn if heated.
CHEMICALS
citric acid
methenamine
hydrogen peroxide
methyl/ethyl alcohol
water
APPARATUS
200-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Dissolve 14 g of methenamine in 50 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide in a 200mL beaker while stirring vigorously with a magnetic stirrer or with a stirring
rod. You must also cool this solution by placing the beaker in a salt-ice
bath. While stirring, slowly add 21 g of powdered citric acid in small
portions to the beaker making sure the temperature stays at or below 0 C at
all times. After adding the citric acid, keep stirring for 3 hours and
continue to hold the temperature at 0 C. Next, remove the beaker from the
cooling bath and let it stand at room temperature for 2 hours, discontinue
stirring as well. Finally, pour the solution over a filter to collect the
crystals of HMTD, wash them thoroughly with water, and rinse with methyl or
ethyl alcohol so they can dry faster at room temperature. Dry by setting in a
cool place. HMTD does not store well, so deal with it immediately. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor
the temperature.
8.27 HNIW:
HNIW is an acronym for hexanitrohexaazaisowurtzitane, other names
include CL-20; octahydro-1,3,4,7,8,10-hexanitro-5,2,6-(iminomethenimino)-1Himidazo[4,5-b]pyrazine; 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro-2,4,6,8,10,12hexaazatetracyclo[5.5.0.05,9.03,11]dodecane; and 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro2,4,6,8,10,12-hexaazaisowurtzitane.
HNIW is a new kid on the block, it was first prepared by A.T. Nielsen in
1987, and has since been proposed as a propellent for bullets and as a
blasting explosive. There are actually 6 crystalline isomers of HNIW, this lab
will prepare the beta form, although some of the alpha form will probably be
made. The other isomers are made by heating the crystals to its decomposition
point, the alpha and beta forms are the most stable. This explosive will most
likely be the standard workhorse of the 21st century, it is currently still in
testing for useful applications. HNIW is a symmetric polyazacyclic nitramine,
itself a type of caged polynitramine, a promising new series of compounds.
HNIW is similar to RDX and HMX in structure and explosive properties. This is
a two part lab, the first synthesizing a derivative called
tetraacetyldibenzylhexaazaisowurtzitane (TADB), then from that, HNIW.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
bromobenzene
chloroform
N,N-dimethylformamide
ethyl acetate
ethyl alcohol
HBIW
hydrogen
nitrogen
nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate
Pearlman's catalyst
sulfolane
water
APPARATUS
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 129 mL of N,N-dimethylformamide and 65 mL of acetic

anhydride in a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask. Add to the flask, with
stirring, 43.2 g of HBIW, 0.8 mL of bromobenzene, and 4.7 g of Pearlman's
catalyst. Purge the flask by bubbling hydrogen gas in the liquid ,this will
displace the air. Continue to bubble hydrogen gas into the flask and stir. If
possible, maintain a pressure of 50 psi. Over a short period of time, the
temperature may rise to about 50 C, at this temperature begin cooling the
flask with a cold water or salt-ice bath to keep it under 50 C. The total
reaction time needed is 24 hours. Since it is undesirable to bubble hydrogen
gas through the flask for this length of time, as much would be wasted, a
pressure is maintained. During the reaction, stop cooling if the temperature
drops below 35 C, always keep it between 35-50 C. Stir the contents of the
flask for the entire 24 hours. Purge the flask by bubbling nitrogen gas into
it to displace any remaining hydrogen. Filter the contents of the flask to
collect the solid material and the catalyst. Wash with 130 mL of denatured
ethyl alcohol, this should leave behind a gray solid of Pearlman's catalyst
and TADB. The TADB can be separated from the catalyst by dissolving the solid
in boiling chloroform, and filtering to remove the remaining solid catalyst.
Boil the chloroform down to recrystallize the TADB. The yield is about 85%.
Prepare a solution of 15.5 g of the above prepared TADB, 1.1 mL of water,
and 300 mL of sulfolane in a round bottomed 500-mL Florence flask on a saltice bath. Add 10.5 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate to the flask over a period
of 30 minutes, keeping the temperature below 25 C. After the addition, stir
the mixture for 1 hour at 25 C, then for 1 hour at 55-60 C. Allow the
solution, which should be a yellow-orange color, to cool to 25 C. After
cooling, rapidly add 47.8 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate, keeping the
temperature below 25 C. Stir the mixture at 25 C for 2 hours, then at 55-60
C for 2 hours. Cool the mixture to below 10 C with a salt-ice bath, then
dump the contents, solid precipitate and all, into a large bucket. Slowly add
4.5 L of water to the mixture in the bucket, keeping the temperature below 25
C, the color of the solution should change from green to yellow, some brown
fumes may be evolved. Maintain the temperature at 25 C with continuous
stirring for 18 hours, a white precipitate should form. Filter to collect this
crude HNIW, and wash several times with water to yield about 12 g of hydrated
product. To purify the HNIW, dissolve it in 40 mL of ethyl acetate,
chromatographically filter the solution through a short column of silica get,
and wash with ethyl acetate. Pour the filtered solution into 500 mL of
chloroform to precipitate the HNIW in its anhydrous beta form. The
chromatographic filtration can be skipped. If pale yellow crystals are
obtained as the crude product, it is the wrong stuff. Heat these crystals in
15 mL of water per 1 g of product at 95 C with stirring for 10 minutes, then
cool to 0 C. After standing for 6 hours, filter and wash the crude product as
above, it should be HNIW now. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
8.28 HNO:
HNO stands for 2,4,6,2',4',6'-hexanitro-oxanilide. This material uses the
explosive TNO as its precursor. HNO was first prepared by A.G. Perkins in 1892
when he did nitrations of TNO and from oxanilide. HNO is a stable compound
that resists mechanical shock, friction, and heat. Compared to TNO this
compound is fairly similar, it has, perhaps, slightly greater stability and
explosive power. HNO is used as a component in ignitors and pyrotechnics.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
tetranitro-oxanilide
water
thermometer
APPARATUS
beaker
Buchner funnel
graduated cylinder
litmus paper
Prepare an acid mixture by pouring 125 mL of 90% nitric acid into a round
bottomed 1000-mL Florence flask. Slowly add 55 mL of concentrated sulfuric
acid. Set the flask into a salt-ice bath and cool it to 10 C. You will need a
magnetic stirrer if using a flask, otherwise stir by hand with a stirring rod
in a beaker with extreme caution. Slowly add 29.2 of tetranitro-oxanilide
(TNO) to the mixed acid with rapid agitation while keeping the temperature
between 8-10 C, this should require about 25 minutes. After adding the TNO,
transfer the flask to a water bath and heat it to 85 C over a 2 hour period,
then hold the temperature between 85-90 for 1 hour more. The HNO slurry is
filtered on a Buchner funnel and washed with water until it is almost acid
free. The filter cake is placed in a beaker and sufficient water added to form
a slurry. Steam is run into the slurry under agitation for 10 minutes. The
slurry is filtered and the residue washed. The latter treatment of the slurry
is repeated until the wash water is found to be neutral to litmus paper. The
HNO is washed with ethyl alcohol, then acetone, dried in the air, and finally
dried at 100-110 C. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids,
8.29 IPN:
IPN is an acronym for isopropyl nitrate, its proper scientific name is
2-propyl nitrate. IPN is a white liquid with an ether like smell. IPN is a
volatile liquid with anesthetic properties at lower concentrations as well as
causing headaches if inhaled or spilled on the skin. Ingesting or constant
inhalation of quantities exceeding 4% for two or more hours is lethal.
Quantities as low as 0.2% show no ill effects. This substance has found uses
as rocket propellents and jet starter fuel when it is not being used as a
propellent or explosive. The liquid is stable for the most part although it is
flammable.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
isopropyl alcohol Florence flask
nitric acid
urea
To prepare IPN, isopropyl alcohol is nitrated continuously by adding a
mixture of 61% nitric acid with 95% isopropyl alcohol, saturated with urea,
into a Florence flask set up for distillation containing boiling 50% nitric
acid. The IPN and water formed are continuously distilled off at about 98 C
from the reaction mixture. The volume of the reaction mixture is held constant
by drainage of nitric acid and unstable by-products from it as the reactants
are added. Unless you have a special flask with a stopcock on the bottom, you
will have to periodically disconnect the flask from the condenser and dump out
some of the used nitric acid. You will also have to momentarily disconnect the
flask to add more acid/alcohol mix if you do not have an addition funnel. Be
very careful doing this as you will subject yourself to a blast of acid fumes.
A curtain of air, nitrogen, or carbon dioxide is blown through the reaction
mixture to improve mixing and to facilitate the elimination of the volatile
products. However, a flow of inert gas in excess of 50 L/hr decreases the IPN
yield. The optimum ratio of nitric acid to isopropyl alcohol is about 2:1. The
IPN yield is 78%.
8.30 MEDINA:
MEDINA stands for methylene dinitramine, and is also called
methylenedinitramine and N,N-dinitromethanediamine. This compound was first
prepared around 1949 at the University of Bristol by the hydrolysis of
hexamine. This compound is not cruelty free (heh heh), it has been sprayed
into rabbit eyes and injected under guinea pigs skins. The compound has been
found to be non-toxic. This lab does not exactly fit in well with normal
laboratory procedures as this information is the industrial laboratory method.
Since this is the industrial method and it is still made in the lab I conclude
this substance is either not used much or is to dangerous, I am leaning

towards not used much. This is surprising as this explosive is quite powerful
for such a small and simple molecule. Its real fault lies in the fact that it
does not keep well, so use it soon after preparing.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
acetone
charcoal
ethyl acetate
ethyl alcohol
ethyl chloride
formamide
formic acid
isopropyl alcohol
methenamine
nitric acid
2-nitropropane
paraffin
sodium hydroxide
sodium sulfate
water
xylene
APPARATUS
50 & 250-mL beaker
buret
2-L Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
This is a three step process for the manufacture of MEDINA: In a round

bottom 2-L Florence flask, mix 476 mL of formamide and 70 g of methenamine.
The flask is set up for refluxing, and heated at 140 C for 5 hours. It is
then chilled in ice, the solid is filtered, and washed on a filter with 90 g
of formamide. The crude product of methylenediformamide may be used in the
next step or purified by dissolving in ethyl alcohol, decolorizing with
charcoal, and chilling.
19 mL of 100% nitric acid is added dropwise with a buret while stirring
to a suspension of 5 g of crude methylenediformamide in 19 mL of acetic
anhydride cooled to 10-15 C in a 50-mL beaker. The solution is then held at 0
C for 2 hours, and poured with stirring into a 250-mL beaker filled with 150
mL of ice water. The precipitate is filtered, washed twice by mixing with ice
water, pressed dry on the filter, and dissolved in 30 mL of ethyl acetate. The
solution is seperated from water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate,
concentrated in vacuum, 10 mL of isopropyl alcohol is added, and the product
is collected. The product is methylene di(nitroformamide), which can be
purified by recrystallization from either acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or from
boiling ethyl chloride.
The crude methylene di(nitroformamide) is pressed dry on the filter,
stirred into 105 mL of formic acid, and the paste is allowed to stand
overnight. The next day the solution is filtered through an acid filter, the
formic acid and water is removed by distilling with xylene, and the crude
MEDINA, which seperates as a sand, is filtered and dried over paraffin and
sodium hydroxide in vacuum. The crude MEDINA is recrystallized from 2nitropropane or a 9:1 solution of ethyl chloride/isopropyl alcohol. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic
stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.31 MMAN:
MMAN is an acronym for monomethylamine nitrate, it is also called
methylamine nitrate. It is a powerful and stable primary explosive compound.
Its stability makes it a better choice for a primary explosive and as a test
of the independent chemist's skill. When used as a blasting cap it will
probably require some other more sensitive material to help it along, but when
it explodes it will detonate even insensitive explosives. The only problem
with it is that it is a hygroscopic compound, so keep it very tightly sealed
in storage. Another snag is the methylamine solution used, it is not a
supermarket item now that drug dealers have made it a DEA watched chemical, it
is easy to make though. A note on nitric acid: You can use any concentration
of acid from 20% and up, it is the volume of acid that is required. I have
given the volume for pure acid, adjust as needed for lesser solutions.
CHEMICALS
methylamine
nitric acid
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
desiccator
graduated cylinder
Place 250 mL of 33% methylamine solution in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add,

with stirring, 385 mL of 100% nitric acid. It will be helpful to divide the
acid into four equal portions of 96 mL each and use a salt-ice bath. The acid
addition will generate substantial heat and may boil, wait until the solution
cools a little before adding the next portion. It is not necessary to add
concentrated nitric acid, a concentration as low as 20% will suffice. You must
still add the equivalent of 385 mL of pure acid. Remember there is 1 mL of
pure acid per 1% of solution in 100 mL. A 20% solution would require 1925 mL.
After adding the acid, test the solution with pH paper, or litmus paper. The
result must be near pH 7 if using the pH paper and be neutral if using litmus
paper. If the solution is acidic add methylamine until pH 7 is reached. If the
solution is basic add nitric acid until pH 7 is reached. Evaporate the liquid
to precipitate the crystals of MMAN by heating until a slurry is reached, then
use vacuum drying to remove the rest of the water. Because the MMAN is
hygroscopic, it will be impossible to drive off all the water unless heated
under vacuum or placed in a desiccator. Extreme care must be taken when
heating an explosive IT CAN EXPLODE. MMAN is safe enough that it only burns
when strongly heated. Use either a hotplate, steam bath, or oil bath to heat
the explosive. If you have access to vacuum equipment use the vacuum drying
method. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a
stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing.
8.32 NPN:
NPN is an acronym for n-propyl nitrate, it also has the names propyl
nitrate; monopropyl nitrate; 1-propyl nitrate; and propyl ester of nitric
acid. This substance is a watery white liquid that is extremely toxic if
inhaled. It is very stable, it can be knocked around for a good bit before
detonating, but increasing the temperature will increase the sensitivity. This
substance can be detonated while vaporized making it a good fuel-air

explosive, The maximum detonation velocity that can be achieved is 1,900 m/s
at 21% concentration in air. Anything more or less will have a lower velocity
and is thus less powerful. NPN has found many uses in industry, the list
includes: rocket propellent, jet motor starting fuel, turbine motor fuel, a
degreasing solvent for iron and aluminum, and a diesel fuel additive just to
name a few.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ethyl acetate
isopropyl alcohol thermometer
nitric acid
n-propyl alcohol
sodium carbonate
sulfuric acid
NPN can be prepared by reacting n-propyl alcohol with 70% nitric acid
dissolved in ethyl acetate. During the reaction the temperature must be kept
at 20 C, the product can then be extracted by distillation.
NPN can also be prepared by reacting a continuous stream of propyl
alcohol below the surface of a stirred mixed acid composed of 20% nitric acid,
68% sulfuric acid, and 12% by weight of water in an open stainless steel
vessel cooled to 0-5 C. Additional mixed acid is also simultaneously
introduced at about a third of the depth of the liquid. An overflow pipe
maintains a constant reactant level and the effluent product is separated,
washed with aqueous 10% sodium carbonate solution, and dried by passage
through a Filtrol packed tower with 50% isopropyl alcohol as the solvent at 0
C. Yield is about 66.5%. Sorry, I have no volumes to give you. You will need
a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.33 PVN:
PVN stands for polyvinyl nitrate, which means that this explosive is a
continually linked chain of vinyl nitrate over and over again. The material
appears to be a white powder if the polymer has fewer links in the molecule
and as tough white strands if there are many links in the molecule. PVN was
first prepared in Germany in 1929 by G. Frank and H. Kruger by nitrating
polyvinyl alcohol. This laboratory procedure comes from, I believe, two French
scientists named Chdin and Tribot who experimented on method of PVN
preparation after WWII. The densities of PVN can vary depending on the density
of the starting polyvinyl alcohol and range from a low 0.3 g/mL to 1.5 g/mL
and corresponding detonation velocities of 2030 m/s to 6560 m/s. Obviously it
is better to have a higher density product. This product has found a niche in
military applications mainly in propellents, but not so much in industrial
applications.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
polyvinyl alcohol
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
sodium bicarbonate vacuum desiccator

water
Over a period of 1 hour, very slowly add 5 g of finely pulverized
polyvinyl alcohol (containing 10% moisture) to 100 mL of 99-100 nitric acid in
a 250-mL beaker. The beaker should be in a salt-ice bath to provide cooling
during the addition. Maintain constant stirring and a temperature of -8 C
throughout the addition, and for an additional 2 hours after the addition. The
resulting slurry is slowly drowned in an equal volume of ice water while
vigorously stirring. Filter this to collect the white powder that should have
formed, wash the powder with water until neutral to litmus, then put it in
clean water for 12 hours. Repeat the washing and standing process using 95%
ethyl alcohol, and again repeat the process with 12% sodium bicarbonate
solution. Finally, the powder is washed with water until neutral to litmus,
dried in the open air, then in a vacuum desiccator. The yield is about 96%.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or
magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
It may be possible to increase the nitration yield by adding the
polyvinyl alcohol to acetic anhydride first and using more nitric acid, the
procedure is followed as above.
Here are the formulas for WC846 and M9 propellants:
82% PVN
57.75% PVN
10.2% nitroglycerin
40.0% nitroglycerin
0.7% dinitrotoluene
1.50% potassium nitrate
6.1% dibutylphthalate 0.75% ethyl centralite
1.0% diphenylamine
0.50% ethyl alcohol
And, yes, M9 does add up to 100.5%, the alcohol is supposed to be just trace
amounts, but is listed as 0.5% for some reason.
8.34 TeNN:
TeNN is an acronym for tetranitronaphthalene. There are actually several
isomers of TeNN, we are primarily concerned with 1,3,6,8-tetranitronaphthalene
as it forms in abundance over the 1,2,4,6-; 1,2,5,8-; 1,2,6,8-; 1,3,5,7-;
1,3,5,8-; and 1,4,5,8-tetranitronaphthalenes. A mixture of isomers is bound to
occur, though. TeNN is a very powerful and quite stable high explosive
compound. It is actually slightly more powerful that TNT and just as stable.
This explosive is superb because of its primary ingredient naphthalene.
Naphthalene is the chemical name for moth balls, it is cheap, easy to get, not
to hazardous, and sold in a store near you. I keep waiting for the government
to ban it, or some environMeNtaList whacko to launch a save the moths campaign
to ban it. The only drawback to TeNN is the possibility of side reactions
reducing the yield during synthesis. Rapid heating of TeNN will cause it to
explode, but slow heating will only cause decomposition. This lab uses
concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids which are not so common, but still
obtainable. Making TeNN is a multi step synthesis, first making mononitro then
1,8-dinitronaphthalene.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl alcohol
naphthalene
nitric acid
potassium nitrate
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
2000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a mixture of 64 g of powdered naphthalene with 105 mL of water in

a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid to the beaker then
add 81 mL of 70% nitric acid. Stir this mixture occasionally and allow it to
cool to room temperature. During a 3 hour period, slowly add with stirring 150
g of powdered naphthalene to the acid mixture. The temperature will rise,
regulate the addition of the naphthalene to get the temperature at 50 C by
the end of the addition time. After all of the naphthalene has been added,
continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 C for several minutes then stop
stirring and allow the mix to cool. Some mononitronaphthalene should
crystallize on the surface of the beaker.
Prepare a second nitrating mixture by putting 300 mL of 53% sulfuric acid
in a 1000-mL beaker. Cool the acid to 25 C by placing in a salt-ice bath. Add
152 g of potassium nitrate to the acid while stirring rapidly. Remove the
mononitronaphthalene from the previous reaction and crush it up, add it in
small bits while stirring to the mixture, maintain the temperature between 38
C and 45 C. The addition should require about 1 hour, do not allow the
temperature to go over 45 C at any time during the addition. After the
addition, continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 C until the formation
of dinitronaphthalene crystals begin. Filter the contents of the beaker on an
acid filter to collect the crystals of dinitronaphthalene that should have
formed. Wash the crystals with six portions of cold water and allow them to
dry. Dissolve the dry crystals in boiling acetone. Filter this solution while
hot to remove any undissolved impurities, collect the filtrate and allow it to
cool by placing in a salt-ice bath. Filter to collect the pure crystals of
dinitronaphthalene. Collect the acetone filtrate from this filtering, boil it
to reduce the volume by half, and cool in a salt-ice bath. Again filter to
collect a second crop of dinitronaphthalene, add these crystals to the
previous and allow them to dry.
Prepare the final nitrating acid mixture by slowly adding 750 mL of 100%
sulfuric acid to 750 mL of 100% fuming nitric acid in a 2000-mL beaker. Cool
the acid mix to below 20 C with a salt-ice bath. Once below this temperature,
slowly add with stirring the dry dinitronaphthalene from the previous reaction
while maintaining the temperature at 20 C during the addition. After the
addition, slowly heat the mixture to 80 C over a 1 hour period (1 degree
higher every minute) then hold the temperature at 80-90 C for 3 hours more.
Allow the mixture to cool then filter on an acid filter to collect the
crystals of TeNN that should have formed. Collect the filtrate and drown it in
ice water to precipitate additional crystals of TeNN. Filter to collect these
crystals and combine them with the other crystals. Wash the crystals with
several portions of water then add them to 95% ethyl alcohol. Allow the
crystals to dissolve, then cool in a salt-ice bath to recrystallize the now
pure TeNN. The pure crystals can be filtered to collect them and dried by
heating on a steam bath.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod
or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature
for these procedures.
8.35 TNPEN:
TNPEN is an acronym for -(2,4,6-trinitrophenoxy) ethanol nitrate, also
called 2,4,6-trinitrophenoxyethyl nitrate; or glycoltrinitrophenylether
nitrate. TNPEN was first prepared by H.A. Lewis back in 1925, others have
since revised the method, with this particular preparation developed by R.C.
Elderfield in 1943. TNPEN will ignite when heated in the open and will
detonate if struck as if by a hammer, so its stability is not that low,
compared to TNT it is as stable and has 122% the explosive power. There is
some conflicting data that indicates the stability may be lower. The
recommended uses of this explosive are in detonators or boosters, and as an
ingredient in propellents. The detonation velocity ranges from 5500 m/s to
6600 m/s depending on the density which can range from 1.15 g/mL to 1.6 g/mL
CHEMICALS
acetone
-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
glass filter paper
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 10 g of -(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol in 55 mL of

94% sulfuric acid in a small beaker. Prepare a second solution of 21.5 mL of
sulfuric acid, 13.2 mL of nitric acid, and 15.7 mL of water in a round
bottomed 250-mL Florence flask, chill this solution to between 0-10 C with a
salt-ice bath. It does not matter what concentration of acids are mixed so
long as the total water content comes out to 15.7 mL. While stirring, slowly
add the -(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol solution to the cold acid mix. When the
addition is complete, the temperature is raised in 30 minute intervals to 20
C, 30 C, 40 C, 60 C, and in a 15 minute interval to 70 C. After chilling,
the cream-colored crystals are filtered using glass filter paper, washed free
of acid, and recrystallized by dissolving in acetone and adding ethyl alcohol.
8.36 TNPht:
TNPht is also known as ethyl picrate; aethyl-[2,4,6-trinitrophenyl]-ather;
pikrinsaureaethylather, or aethylpikrat in German; keineyaku, or keyneyaku in
Japanese. The proper scientific name for this substance is 2,4,6trinitrophenetole. This explosive is almost as powerful as TNT but its
sensitivity is not all that great. This explosive would be classified as a
booster, it needs a detonator to set it off and then it would set off a high
explosive. This material was tested in France during WWI in shells as a
bursting charge. The Japanese used it during WWII as a substitute for TNT
because they had a shortage of toluene. This lab was developed by L.
Desvergnes around 1922.
CHEMICALS
2,4-dinitrophenetole
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Dissolve 53 g of 2,4-dinitrophenetole in 95 mL of 95-98% sulfuric acid in

a 500-mL beaker while stirring. Add 62% nitric acid so that the temperature
rises rapidly to 30 C. Continue the addition, while maintaining the
temperature between 30-40 C by cooling with a salt-ice bath, until a total of
30 mL of nitric acid has been added. Pour the resulting yellow slurry into
about 1500 mL of cold water, filter to collect the crystals, wash the crystals
with cold water, and dry. There should be about 61.8 g of product, or 96% of
the theoretical yield. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
8.37 Tetranitromethane:
Tetranitromethane, also called TeNMe, is a colorless to pale yellow
liquid that was first prepared by the action of nitric acid on trinitromethane
back in 1861. The Germans used it back in WWII for an intermediate in making
other explosives and as a substitute for nitric acid in the V-2 rocket. A
pilot plant in New Jersey used to make tetranitromethane blew up in 1953. This
compound is rather toxic, irritating the skin, mucous membranes and the
respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to vapors causes damage to the liver,
kidneys, and other organs. A concentration of 0.1 ppm in the air is fatal.
Mixtures of tetranitromethane with organic liquids tend to form more powerful
explosives, but the sensitivity is worse. A list of mixtures has been
provided. Tetranitromethane has been proposed as a chemical warfare agent.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
nitric acid
sodium hydroxide
sodium sulfate
water
APPARATUS
addition funnel
beaker
Clasien adapter
desiccator
250-ml Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
This reaction will produce toxic fumes, so take the necessary

precautions. Measure out 21 mL of 100% nitric acid into a round-bottomed 250ml Florence flask. It is important to only use anhydrous acid and no more than
the amount proscribed, any deviation will drastically lower the yield of this
reaction. Place a Clasien adapter on the flask and attach a thermometer on the
straight arm, almost touching the bottom of the flask, and an addition funnel
on the side arm. In this instance do not use a thermometer adapter to connect
the thermometer, there must be a gap to allow reaction gasses to escape.
Cool the contents of the flask to 10 C in an ice water bath. Slowly add
47.2 mL of acetic anhydride in portions of 0.5 mL at a time from the buret. Do
not let the temperature of the mixture rise above 10 C during the addition,
failure to maintain the temp may result in a dangerous runaway reaction. After
the first 5 mL of acid has been added the reaction should have calmed down
enough where you can begin to add larger portions of 1 to 5 mL at a time with
constant shaking.
After all the acetic anhydride has been added, everything is removed from
the flask. The neck of the flask is wiped clean with a towel, the flask is
then covered with an inverted beaker, and it is now allowed to come up to room
temperature in the ice bath. It is important to keep the flask in the ice bath
because the reaction can still become dangerous if it is allowed to warm up
too rapidly. The flask should be left alone for 1 week (yes, 7 days) at room
temperature.
After sitting for a week the contents are mixed with 300 mL of water in a
500-mL Florence flask. The tetranitromethane is removed by steam distillation,
the tetranitromethane passes over with the first 20 mL of the distillate. The
lower layer of the distillate is separated, washed with dilute sodium
hydroxide, and then water, and finally dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate in
a desiccator. Yield is 1416 g, or about 57-65%. Do not distill
tetranitromethane by ordinary distillation means, it may explode. The residues
of distillation are especially dangerous. Use only steam distillation, and
even then be careful. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids.
Explosive mixtures with organic compounds
Tetranitromethane can be mixed with several compounds including benzene,
ethylene glycol, gasoline, naphthalene, and toluene, but the resulting
explosive may be rather sensitive to detonation. Here are some mixing ratios:
-87:13 mixture of benzene and TeNMe
-1:1 mixture of ethylene glycol and TeNMe
-varying amounts of gasoline or diesel mixed with TeNMe are powerful but very
sensitive, I suspect that the more TeNMe there is the more sensitive it will
be
-1 mole naphthalene to 2 moles TeNMe
-4 moles of nitromethane to 1 mole TeNMe
-mixing 10-40% paraffins and 60-90% TeNMe will make powerful explosives that
are resistant to mechanical shock but detonate by explosive shock
-mixing with toluene creates a very powerful explosive (>8000 m/s) that is
more unstable than nitroglycerine
8.38 CH-6
CH-6 is a mixture of 97.5% RDX, 1.5% calcium stearate, 0.5%

polyisobutylene, and 0.5% graphite. It is a finely divided gray powder that is
less toxic and more available than tetryl.

Composition A-5 is a mixture of 98.5% RDX and 1.5% stearic acid.
8.40 COMPOSITION A-3.Composition A-3 is a wax-coated, granular explosive, consisting of 91%

RDX and 9% desensitizing wax.
8.41 COMPOSITION B.Composition B is a mixture of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. The TNT
reduces the sensitivity of the RDX to a safe degree and, because of its
melting point, allows the material to be cast-loaded.
8.42 PBXN-5
PBXN-5 is referred to as a plastic-bonded explosive because it is an
explosive coated with plastic material. The composition is made of 95% HMX and
5% fluoroelastomers.
8.43 Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide(MEKP):

PREPARATION AND PROPERTIES OF METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE
The three most common forms of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide are:
MONOMERIC: C4H10(O)4
DIMERIC: C8H18(O)6
ANHYDROUS DIMERIC: C8H16(O)4
The anhydrous dimeric form is the preferable form to create; it is more
powerful and less sensitive to shock. Bot hforms are very sensitive to heat.
Anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide takes many times as sharp of a
blow from a hammer to initiate detonation than with trimeric acetone peroxide.
This is due to several factors:
(1) It is an oily liquid, not a solid, A solid will not shift shape to fit its
container, as will a liquid. Thus, when trimeric acetone peroxide is struck
with a hammer, the crystals shatter, causing decomposition; when anhydrous
dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is struck with a hammer, it will shift
shape significantly, often avoiding decomposition.
(2) The C-O-O-C group is better shielded in anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide. Thus, random energy surges
will be less likely to affect the C-O-O-C group enough to break all of the
bonds in the group, which would result in exothermic decomposition, likely
starting a chain reaction; this would be perceived as detonation.
(3) There is less stress on the peroxide groups in anhydrous dimeric methyl
ethyl ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide (bond stress is mostly
responsible for monomeric acetone peroxide's incredible instability, and
anhydrous dimeric acetone peroxide's relative instability when compared to
trimeric acetone peroxide).
(4) The decomposition to an exothermic stage of decomposition of a single
molecule of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide requires more
energy than with a single molecule of trimeric acetone peroxide.
(5) Less energy is liberated from the decomposition of a single anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecule, causing it to be less likely that
detonation will occur from the decomposition of just a handful of anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecules.
Perhaps the most valuable property of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is the fact
that it can be stored for a long period of time. Chemical decomposition does
not proceed beyond the monomeric form, with the obvious exception of
deflagration and detonation. Autonomous chemical decomposition is very slow
when not in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (which causes the anhydrous
dimeric form to begin to decompose slowly into the monomeric form). Because of
this, it is wise to prepare anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in
an excess of methyl ethyl ketone (this fact has been factored into the below
instruction on preparation of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide). Anhydrous dimeric
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is a thick, oily liquid. The anhydrous dimeric
form, when pure, possesses a sharp, sour, acidic "burning" odor. The procedure
for preparation that will soon be discussed will produce mostly the anhydrous
dimeric form.
PREPARATION OF ANHYDROUS DIMERIC METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE:
CHEMICALS NEEDED:
-40mL 27.5% H2O2 solution (other concentrations may be used; the volume of
hydrogen peroxide solution will need to be adjusted accordingly; the quantity
of sulfuric acid used will also need to be adjusted)
-25mL Methyl Ethyl Ketone CH3COCH2CH3 (sold as a solvent at hardware stores;
keep in mind that it will dissolve most plastics)
-5mL 98% sulfuric acid (other concentrations may be used, the volume of
sulfuric acid will need to be adjusted accordingly)
-200mL NaHCO3 solution
procedure:
1) Place 25mL of methyl ethyl ketone in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in
an ice bath at temperatures ranging preferrably from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius;
the lower end of the described recommended temperature range is preferrable.
2) Place 40mL of 27.5% H2O2 solution in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in
3) Wait fro the temperature of both the methyl ethyl ketone and the
temperature of the 27.5% H2O2 solution to fall into the recommended
temperature range. Then, pour the beaker of methyl ethyl ketone into the
beaker of hydrogen peroxide solution. Stir this solution for thirty seconds.
4) Add 5mL of 98% sulfuric acid slowly, drop by drop, taking care to keep
temperatures within the recommended temperature range, into the beaker
containing the monomeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. If the temperature
rises above 5 degrees Celcius, stop adding the sulfuric acid immediately.
5) After all of the sulfuric acid is added, wait 24 hours. It is highly
recommended to attempt to keep the temperatures within the recommended
temperature range during the entirety of every step of the prepataion (this is
a very common mistake made when attempting to make trimeric acetone peroxide;
most will not bother to keep the temperatures around zero degrees Celcius
while waiting 24 hours or so for the reaction to complete; the result of that
is far less stable acetone peroxide due to lower yields of the trimeric form
and higher yields of the dimeric form).
6) The beaker should now have two layers; a thick oily layer on the top, and a
translucent white, relatively thin liquid on the bottom. The thick oily layer
on top is the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. All traces of
acid must now be removed. Pour this beaker into a 300mL beaker. Then slowly
add 200mL of NaHCO3 solution. Stir vigorously for five minutes; try to keep
the size of the pockets of the oily liquid (the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide) as small as possible when stirring.
7) Most of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide will now begin
to sink to the bottom of the beaker. Extract it with a syringe. Some will also
remain on the surface; extract this also with a syringe (it is possible to
isolate the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide by decantation, but
this process can be very time consuming, frusturating, and will not be able to
harvest nearly as much of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
as the syringe extraction method).
If you wish to further deacidify the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide, place it in an airtight aluminum container, in an ice bath
(extremely important!). Leave the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in the airtight
aluminum container until bubbles no longer form. A safer alternative to this
process is to add noon-crumpled pieces of aluminum foil to the anhdrous
dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (also in an ice bath); however this will
often make it difficult to recollect all of the anhdrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide, due to it sticking to the pieces of aluminum foil; it can be
very difficult to remove from that surface.
9) Now pour the deacidified anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
into an open glass, or plastic (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!). Let
it stay in the open at temperatures around 15 degrees Celcius to allow most of

the water to evaporate off.
10) Now that the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is dehydrated,
it is ready for use.
STORAGE: Pour the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into a sealed
plastic container (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!) for storage. The
reason for sealing it is to prevent loss of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide due to evaporation. The lower the temperatures are during
storage, the better, with the exception of temperatures so low that it freezes
the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide.
Density of MEKP = 1.0g/cm3
Freezing point = approximately -5 to -10 degrees Celcius
Dimeric 2-peroxybutane explodes upon contact with concentrated sulfuric acid.
It seems that dimeric 2-peroxybutane (MEKP) is more stable than previously
thought. It does not explode unless severely shocked. I have tried to explode
as much as 4mL using only fuse, and that resulted in nothing but a tall pillar
of flame. It does explode with a sharp crack when hit *hard* with a hammer. I
suggest using aqueous ammonia instead of sodium hydrogen carbonate for
neutralizing acid.
A dimeric 2-peroxybutane / ammonium nitrate dynamite:
11mL (or grams) of dimeric 2-peroxybutane mixed with 100g of ammonium nitrate.
8.44 Nitrourea:
This is a simple ketonitramine which is very easy to make. Its main (only?)
drawback is the fact that it is easily decomposed in the presence of moisture,
and therefore must be kept absolutely anhydrous for increased storage
stability. This is a two stage synthesis, first forming Urea Nitrate, which is
also an explosive.
I can't find density values for either of them at the moment, but Urea Nitrate
has a max. VoD of around 4500 m/s and Nitrourea can get up to about 7000 m/s.
I have not found the zinc salt of Nitrourea to be very useful, so I will not
include it unless people actually want me to.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate.
Materials:
30g of urea (cheaper lawn fertilisers, such as Wilkinson's own brand, are pure
urea.),
35mL of 70% nitric acid,
Distilled water,
Acetone,
Three 150mL beakers,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
A fridge,
Filter papers.
Procedure:
1) Put the urea in a 150mL beaker, and add 40mL of distilled water. Stir it
with the thermometer until it has dissolved - it gets quite cold, so you'll
need to warm it, or have a bit of patience.
2) Measure out the nitric acid into the other 150mL beaker.
3) Cool the nitric acid, and the urea solution, to 5*C in the fridge, or in an
ice bath.
4) Slowly, while stirring with the thermometer, mix the two liquids, while
keeping the temperature below 20*C.
5) Filter out the precipitate, and discard the solution.
6) Add the precipitate to 100mL of acetone in the third 150mL beaker, and stir
it around with the thermometer.
7) Filter the Urea Nitrate out, and let it dry in a warm place.
Step #2: The production of Nitrourea.
You will need:
60g of Urea Nitrate,
90mL of conc. sulphuric acid,
Distilled water,
Alcohol,
Ice,
A salt/ice bath,
A hot water bath,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
Filter papers,
Two 250mL beakers,
A 500mL beaker.
1) Measure the sulphuric acid into a 250mL beaker, and cool it to -5*C in the
salt/ice bath.
2) Slowly, while stirring and keeping the temperature below 0*C, add the Urea
Nitrate.
3) 5 minutes after all the Urea Nitrate has been added, dump the mixture into
300mL of ice/water in the 500mL beaker.
4) Filter out the precipitate, and put it into the second 250mL beaker,
containing 50mL of alcohol.
5) Heat this to the boiling point of the alcohol using the hot water bath, and
while stirring add more alcohol, slowly, until all the Nitrourea has
dissolved.
6) Chill this solution to 0*C in the salt/ice bath, filter out the precipitate
and rinse it with cold alcohol.
7) Dry it in warm, dry air to prevent condensation of water on the
precipitate.
8) The Nitrourea will now be pure, and can be stored for years in hard glass
bottles if kept dry.
9) It's a good idea to keep it SLIGHTLY acidic, since alkalis accelerate it's
decomposition when moist.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate:
Yield, based on the amount of urea used:
Amount of urea used: 30.0 grams.
Theoretical yield: 61.5 grams.

Experimental yield: 55.5 grams.
Percentage yield: 90.2%
Step #2: The conversion of Urea Nitrate to Nitrourea:

Yield, based on the amount of Urea Nitrate used:
Amount of Urea Nitrate used: 60.0 grams.
Theoretical Yield: 51.2 grams.
Experimental Yield: 30.4 grams.
Possible improvements:
Not much really. As with Hexamethylenetetramine Dinitrate, the liquid left
after making one batch of Urea Nitrate can be used to dissolve the urea for
the next batch, so that less Urea Nitrate is lost in the solution
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene:
This was once considered as a high explosive for use in artillery shells; as
far as I know, the only reasons why it was not used are the facts that it was
more expensive than Trinitrotoluene, and it didn't have the advantage of being
safely castable. It is as stable as Trinitrotoluene and has the same oxygen
balance.
VoD is 7013 m/s at 1.60 g/cm3, therefore its relative briscancy under these
conditions is 0.96.
Materials:
105g of napthalene,
320mL of 98% sulphuric acid,
5% sodium bicarbonate solution,
Ethanol,
A 250mL beaker,
A 1.5L beaker,
A 3L container,
A hot water bath,
An ice bath,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
Filter papers.
Procedures:
Step #1: The production of mononitronapthalene.
1) Add 30g of powdered napthalene to 50mL of water in a 250mL beaker. Stir it
around, and mix it together as good as you can (water and napthalene do not
like mixing!)
2) Slowly add 80mL of the sulphuric acid, while stirring with the thermometer,
and then add 60mL of the 70% nitric acid.
Do not let the temperature rise above 30*C during either of the additions.
3) Slowly stir in a further 75g of napthalene, keeping the temperature at
around 50*C using the ice bath and hot water bath. Hold it at this
temperature, while stirring, for half an hour.
4) Heat the mixture to 60*C for 3 minutes, then let it cool to room
temperature.
5) Remove the solidified mononitronapthalene from the surface of the liquid.
This can be used in the next steps to make Tetranitronapthalene, or purified
by stirring it around under 75*C 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, then several
washes under hot water, if it is going to be used to make Cheddites.
Step #2: The production of 1,8-Dinitronapthalene.
1) In a 1.5L beaker surrounded by an ice bath, cool 160mL of sulphuric acid to
around 15*C.
2) Slowly stir in 80mL of 70% nitric acid, keeping the temperature below 30*C.
3) Crush the mononitronapthalene from the previous step as finely as you can,
and slowly stir it into the sulphuric acid/nitric acid mixture, keeping the
temperature below 40*C.
4) After all the mononitronapthalene has been added, stir it occaisionally for
half an hour, keeping the temperature at 20*C - 30*C.
5) After this time, slowly warm the mixture to 70*C, while stirring
vigorously. This warming should last about half an hour.
6) Hold the temparature between 65*C and 75*C for half an hour, while
stirring.
7) Let the mixture cool to room temperature, and dump it into 1L of cold water
in a 3L container. Let the product settle.
8) Decant off most of the liquid from the product, and slowly add 2L of
distilled water at about 40*C, while stirring. Let the product settle and
repeat the washing..
9) Filter the product out of the liquid, and let it dry.
10) Dissolve as much of the product as possible in near-boiling acetone, and
filter the solution while hot. Cooling the filtrate in the freezer will
precipitate 1,8-Dinitronapthalene (and unreacted Mononitronapthalene, if any)
for the next step. The undissolved solid will be 1,5-Dinitronapthalene, which
can be used in mixtures with Ammonium Nitrate or Chlorates.
Step #3: The production of 1,3,6,8-Tetranitronapthalene.
1) Chill 60mL of 95% nitric acid in a 500mL beaker, using a salt/icbath.
2) Once the acid is below 0*C, begin the addition of 80mL of 98% sulphuric
acid, while stirring, keeping the temperature below 30*C.
3) After the acids have been mixed, add 20g of the powdered 1,8Dinitronapthalene, as obtained above. Add it slowly, with rapid stirring,
keeping the temperature between 25*C and 30*C.
4) After the addition, leave the mixture at room temperature for one hour,
with occaisional stirring.]
5) After this time, slowly heat the mixture, while stirring rapidly, to 70*C
to 80*C. This heating should be done over the period of about one hour, and
the final temperature should be
maintained, with stirring, for at least one
further hour.
6) Cool the mixture and dump it into roughly three times its volume of cold
distilled water.
7) Filter out the solids, wash them a few times with distilled water, and dry
them.
8) Recrystalise them from ethanol.
9.0 Bombs
The info in this chapter are the experiences and procedures that other
people have used. There are no guarantees about making these bombs.
9.1 C02 bomb:
C02 bombs(crater makers) are pretty much little hand grenades. They are
also called crater makers because if you shove one in the ground and light it,
there will be a small crater after it goes off. These little bastards are
very useful and can be used for many other explosive devises.
Materials:
-Empty C02 cartridge
-any fast burning gunpowder or flash powder
-long cannon fuse(6+ inches)
-J-B Weld
-screw driver
-really small funnel
Instructions:
Take an empty C02 cartridge and widen the hole in the top with the screw
driver as much as you can. Fill the C02 cartridge up with powder using the
funnel. When it fills up with powder, tap the C02 cartridge on something hard
so the powder packs down. Then put some more powder in, then tap it some
more. Put the long cannon fuse in when you cant get anymore powder in. Now
make a batch of J-B Weld and put some on the top of the C.M. so the fuse and
powder wont come out. Let it dry. Pick a big open field, where no one with
call the cops. Shove the C.M. in the ground and light it. Now RUN!You dont
want to be by that shit when it goes off!
Tips:
-You can also use a rocket igniter and a power source as a fuse for better
control and safety. Just make sure the wire running from the C.M. to the
power source in REALLY long.
-Put some modeling clay on the outside of the C.M. then press some BBs or
ball bearing into it; if you really want to fuck shit up!.I might warn you,
if you get hit by the BBs or whatever when it goes off, youll probley DIE.
-Tape the C.M. to a can of starter fluid or a can of butane, for an added
explosion.
9.2 Cherry Bomb:

These things kick ass! They can be pretty loud and dont throw
shrapnel, unless you bury it in rocks.
Materials:
-ping-pong ball
-flash powder or other fast burning powder
-long cannon fuse
-J-B Weld
-red nail polish(optional)
-screw driver
Instructions:
Punch a hole in the ping-pong ball with the screw driver, and fill it
with flash powder. Shove the fuse in the hole and fill in the hole around the
fuse with J-B Weld. Let it dry. Now paint the C.B. with the nail polish,
Ive heard the nail polish gives it an extra bang.
*Note:
As with a C.M., you can use a rocket igniter setup instead of a fuse.
9.3 Dry Ice Bomb:

MATERIALS
-Dry Ice
-PLASTIC Bottle(s)
-Water
*You can get dry ice from an ice cream manufacturer or something.
INSTRUCTIONS
-Fill PLASTIC Bottle 2/3 With Water
-Place Several Chunks Of Dry Ice Inside
-Cap Tightly & Quickly
*NOTE
-Bigger The PLASTIC Bottle The Bigger The Boom
-Large Mouthed Bottles Dont Explode
-Submerse 1/2 Way In Pool, To Rattle Your Neighbors House
*Water Is Not Required, It Only Accelerates The Process
The Less Water Used, The More Dry Ice Is Needed.
*BE CAREFUL, these things will mess you up if they go of in your hand or near
you!
9.4 Sparkler Bomb:

Materials:
-#7 sparlers(3 or 4 bricks worth)
-elctrical tape
Instructions:
Settle in with a coke or something and start unboxing the sparklers. The
number of sparklers per bundle determine the loudness of the explosion.... so
keep this in mind when you make them. I have found that 12 per bundle make for
a nice level of percussion... altho 48 sparklers per bundle can literally "
ROCK THE HOUSE"!! The best bang for your bucks is about 32 per bundle. After
60, there is no increase in percussion and you are basically wasting sparklers
( the outer ones get destroyed before they ignite ).
Unbox the number of sparklers you have decided upon, and bundle them up
into a circular form. Locate the most center sparkler and pull it out of the
bundle by about 2 - 2.5 inches ( if you run slow make it 3.5" ) this becomes
the fuse. Once you have the bundle set, begin wrapping the bundle with
electrical tape starting at the top of the bundle ( not at the fuse tip, but
where the fuse enters the bundle) wrap the tape tightly around the bundle
going towards the bottom of the bundle stopping at the wires. Continue
wrapping the bundle back up towards the top and then back to the bottom again.
This should result in 3 layers of black tape. Take a few extra inches of black
tape and lightly cover the top of the bundle ( this helps in keeping the
sparks from falling on the top of the bundle as you are lighting the fuse and
causing a premature explosion). Once you have the black tape on the bundle,
its time to wrap the unit with the strapping tape. This is done pretty much
the same way as the black tape but you use 4 layers of this tape. ( this tape
increases the explosion force).
Once you have taped the assembly, take one of the wires extending from
the bottom of the bundle and wrap it around the existing wire handles ( this
helps in reducing the wire shrapnel that WILL occur if you dont wrap) next...
take another wire handle and wrap it around the existing wires about 1/2 way
between the bundle and end of the wires. To be really "safe" wrap a few turns
of black tape around the base of the bundle where you wrapped the first wire.
Most sparklers are difficult to light with a Bic lighter or such, a
propane torch works very well... its faster, easier and quicker.
When you plan to "use" the finished product, keep in mind that they are
quite capable of extreme forces. The wires are the most prominent threat. To
reduce the chance of getting "nailed", force the handle section of the unit
into the ground. DO NOT place these things inside of pipes, glass containers,
or items that can shatter ( I think the word is hand grenade). Also DO NOT
place near containers holding materials that can burn, explode, or cause a
problem. Remember, the local authorities dont understand people who enjoy
percussive articles :) .
WARNING
These things can be REALLY loud! They are strong. And they will remove
the grass from the area of detonation. A 32 bundle will clear the grass down
to the mud with about a 15" diameter spot.
If you are within several feet of
the unit when it goes off, there is a good chance of perminent hearing loss
( aka blown eardrums) and several serious wounds. sooooo...
best advice
be at least 20-30ft(minimum) away from it. If it is true that the old style
CherryBombs, Silver Salutes , M-80's etc. are equal to a 1/4 stick of
dynamite...then these things are equal to a 3/4 stick. DO NOT HOLD THESE
THINGS IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!! you will LOOSE whatever is in contact with the
eplosion.
WHAT to Expect...
The fuse takes about 3-5 seconds to reach the top of the bundle, once it
hits the top, a yellowish flame spurts out for about 1/2 a second. When you
see this flame spurt out, the time has come :)
There is a bright white flash
and a fair amount of smoke produced when it ignites. After effects are
neighbors saying "What the hell was that ? " , you standing there saying
" HOLY sheeet !!!" The remains of the unit, if firmly planted in the ground,
will be many wires spread outward along the ground and the fuse wire standing
up, the local area devoid of vegitation.
9.5 Tennis ball bomb:

Ingredients:
Strike anywhere matches or FFFFg BP

A tennis ball
A nice sharp knife
Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff
all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then
tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when
you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a
blast!!
9.6 Mail Box Bomb:
-Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
-Small amount of sugar
-Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that
such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20
feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught,
it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is
up to the city.
9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb:
By far, the most common smoke formula is the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula.
It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make.
The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary
somewhat depending
on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.
A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produced the

smoke cloud on the right in under 2 seconds.
Potassium Nitrate
60 %
Sugar
40 %
Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed
together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together
does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb.
To melt the mixture together, you'll need small metal saucepan or other
heat resistant container, and an electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is
preferred to an open flame heat source because it's a tad safer, and easier to
prevent overheating of the mixture. The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and
over a LOW heat until it just starts to melt. Heating it too quickly, or at
too high a temperature will cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a
giant mess, not to mention a fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done
outside just in case you overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture
begins to melt, it will turn brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy (see
image above)... after all, you are melting Sugar ( and no, you can't eat it ).
A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....
Procedure:
Start by making a small size batch (50 grams total). Measure out 30
grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar into a small cup. For those
of you who cut math class, 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar
is still a 60% / 40% mixture. If you make a batch larger than 50 grams, it
will be very difficult to mix and heat evenly. You can always make more, so
don't mix up a giant batch.
Snap a lid on the container and shake to mix the two chemicals together.
Pour the mixture into a heat resistant container and set it on your hot plate.
Set the hot plate temperature to medium-high, and about every 30 seconds
or so, stir the mixture well, being sure to scrape the material that may start
sticking to the bottom.
Over the next several minutes, the mixture will begin to darken and
clump. It will soon begin to look like brown sugar, and when it finally mixes
smoothly and looks like peanut butter, it is done. If you mixture is turning
BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a temperature.
Remove the container from the heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky
mass. You can either just plop some on the concrete, or if you're picky about
the way your smoke bombs look, you can make small cardboard molds and press
the gooey mass into them. Personally, we just lay it on the concrete.
Before the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Visco Safety Fuse.
Do this to the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.
In about 5 minutes, the material will be cool and become rock hard
( beware that it will stick to the surface while cooling, but is easily
removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your Smoke Bomb away from any
flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.
*see the pyrotechnics section of this book for the other better smoke
formulas.
9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb:

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be
found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks
like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly.
The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate, which is
similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode
from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
9.9 Firebombs (Molotov cocktail):
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked
rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov
cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one
part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use
one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which
were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
9.10 Generic Bomb:
-Acquire a glass container.

-Put in a few drops of gasoline.
-Cap the top.
-Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates.
-Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite
kit)
-The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about stick of
dynamite.
9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute):

These can be really cool, depending on how you make them. They dont
usually do much damage like other bombs, but theyre pretty easy to make; but
I would not be near it when it goes off.
Materials:
-plastic soda bottle with a screw-on cap (the bigger bottle, the louder the
boom!)
-box of Picallo Peat fireworks
-nail
-knive or razor blade
Instructions:
Open up a picallo peat using a razor blade, save the fuse. Pour the
powder in the soda bottle, make sure the bottle is dry! Poke a hole in the
cap with the nail and shove the fuse in the cap a little less than half way.
Screw the cap on the bottle real tight. Stand the bottle up somewhere. Light
the fuse and back up.
*Note: The more powder and the bigger the bottle you use, the bigger the
boom. Other powder can be used instead of the insides of picallo peats; any
fast burning powder will work.
9.12 THERMITE BOMB:

Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula
and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15
grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil.
Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse.
Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical
mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to
help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast
thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled mold.
Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold
will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour,
carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with the first
fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the
ball in the sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN ! The fuse
ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the
thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite
and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. The
thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around.
Use this carefully !-Thermite Burns at over 5000 deg. F.
9.13 soda bottle bomb:
Take a 2 liter plastic soda bottle and fill about a quarter of it with
Muramic Acid (pool acid). After this you have to work fast! Drop some aluminum
foil strips into the bottle and put the cap on. Shake it up a bit and throw
it. It will create a gas and explode. The fumes are very hazardous, so make
sure you wont harm anyone unless you intend to.
10.0 pyrotechnics:
Why buy all those wussy fireworks on the 4th, and waste money when you
can make your own that are way better?! Before making any pyrotechnic devise,
refer to the safety section of this book...and read the following:
[*Warning detail taken from http://www.unitednuclear.com/.]
PAY ATTENTION... OR DIE!
First of all... EVERYTHING IS DANGEROUS!
Even if you're just boiling some water, sure as hell, some spaz out
there is going to bump into the pot and pour the boiling hot water all over
themselves, get third degree burns, and die. (and of course blame it on the
person who told them to boil the water) Now add some high energy chemicals,
like Oxidizers and Metal Powders, not to mention some Radioactive material,
and you've got a real recipe for disaster. Any chemistry experiment, no
matter how simple it may seem, has the potential of being dangerous... even if
you follow directions exactly as stated. The firework formulas always require
special attention, for if any pyrotechnic formula ignites unexpectedly, it
generally can't be extinguished fast enough. Pyrotechnic (firework)
compositions have their own oxygen supply, so they can't be smothered once
ignited. Although large quantities of water will extinguish most slower
burning compositions, there are even some where the addition of water makes
them burn even faster. Some formulas like Flash Powder burn so fast, it's
almost instantaneous. If a quantity of it ignites while you're mixing it,
before you can blink your eye, move your hand, or turn your face, the skin
will have already been burnt off your body. Pyrotechnic mixtures are
sensitive to shock... don't bang on them. They are sensitive to friction...
don't grind them... and of course if a spark or flame touches them, they'll
ignite or explode too. USE COMMON SENSE! Anything that burns has the
potential of exploding, so never put a pyrotechnic composition in a glass or
metal container. To do so is asking for death. If you're going to mix any of
these formulas, make sure you know what you're doing and have a large bucket
of water nearby.
- Avoid using large quantities -
- Only ignite the mixture outdoors -Follow any special warnings given Only ignite pyrotechnic mixtures or completed fireworks with a fuse,
never just throw a match in the mix or on the firework.
10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas:
10.1-1 Smoke formulas:
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such
as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will
burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a
base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has
a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other
excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground
plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be
mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of
the fuel oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke
when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The
trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic
cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the
smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to
burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic
containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites,
producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion.
White smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................4
Charcoal..........................................5
Sulfur............................................10
Wood dust.........................................3
-orcomments: This is the easiest smoke formula to make.
Preparation: Melt the two chemicals together on LOW heat and stir it till it
turns brown and
smooth.
sugar..............................................2
potassium nitrate..................................3
Red smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium chlorate................................15
para-nitroaniline red.............................65
Lactose...........................................20
Green smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
Synthetic indigo..................................26
Auramine (yellow).................................15
Lactose...........................................26
Smoke composition #1:
Comments: Different sources mention differnt compositions. The most often
mentioned one is given here.
Preparation: The mixture is most succesfull when prepared by melting the sugar
and potassium nitrate together on low heat, but this requires good stirring,
and there is a risk of accidential ignition. The molten mixture can be poured
in cardboard containers and a fuse insterted while the mixture solidifies.
Sugar.............................................50
Comments: The mixture is difficult to ignite. Hexachloroethane is poisonous,
and can be replaced by 72 parts PVC. This, however, makes the mixture yet
harder to ignite. The zinc oxide can be replaced by titanium dioxide (2 parts
ZnO replaced by 1 part TiO2). The smoke is slightly irritating and not
suitable for indoor use.
Preparation:
Zinc oxide........................................45
Hexachloroethane..................................45
Aluminum..........................................10
Comments:
Preparation:
Zinc powder.......................................35
CCl4..............................................41
Zinc oxide........................................20
Diatomeous earth..................................5
Comments:
Preparation:
Zinc powder.......................................25
CCl4..............................................50
Zinc oxide........................................20
Comments: Heat of reaction: 2.579 kJ/g, Gas volume: 62 cm3/g, ignition
temperature: 475C, impact sensitivity test: 15% of TNT
Preparation:
Zinc..............................................69
Hexachlorobenzene.................................12
10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches:

Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for soldiers. by
putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the
ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials
that produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR
MATERIAL
USED IN
_____
________
_______
______________________________________________________________________________
_
red
strontium
road flares,
salts
red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
green
barium salts
green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
yellow
sodium salts
gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
blue
powdered copper
blue sparklers,
old pennies
______________________________________________________________________________
_
white
powdered magnesium
firestarters,
or aluminum
aluminum foil
______________________________________________________________________________
_
purple
potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage
______________________________________________________________________________
_
Fire dust:
Comments: The composition spreads a large amount of long lived orange fire
dust particles. The lifetime of those particles depends mainly on the
consistency and type of charcoal.
Preparation: The components must be intimately mixed. This can be done by
dissolving the potassium nitrate in a minimum amount of boiling water, adding
the charcoal and sulfur and precipitating the potassium nitrate in the form of
fine particles by adding a large amount of isopropyl alcohol and cooling the
solution as fast as possible to 0C, followed by filtering and drying.
Charcoal..........................................35
Sulfur............................................7
Blue fire composition #2:

Comments:
Preparation:
Copper ammonium chloride..........................5
Stearin...........................................2
Asphaltum.........................................1
Red fire composition #1:
Comments: Burns at a moderate rate with a nice deep red color.
Preparation:
Strontium nitrate.................................66
Powdered shellac..................................9
Comments:
Preparation:
Strontium carbonate...............................16
Green fire composition #1:
Comments: Dangerous mixture, since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................7
Sulfur............................................2
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................9
Orange shellac powder.............................1
White fire composition #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................7
Charcoal..........................................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Powdered antimony.................................1
Yellow fire composition #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................1
Charcoal..........................................2
Sodium chloride...................................3

Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Sodium carbonate..................................3
Purple fire composition:
Preparation:
Copper sulfate....................................1
Sulfur............................................1
Magnesium flare:
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................38
Magnesium.........................................50
Laminac...........................................5
Green torch #1:

Comments: Note that calomel is a very toxic compound.
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................5
Barium nitrate....................................4
Shellac...........................................1
Calomel...........................................2
Green torch #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................5
potassium perchlorate.............................6
K.D. Gum..........................................2
Sulfur............................................3
Blue torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel and Paris green are both very toxic compounds.
Preparation:
Copper acetoarsenite (Paris Green)................2
Dextrin...........................................1
Calomel...........................................1
Blue torch #2:
Comments: This mixture is incompatible with nitrates and chlorates due to the
presence of a copper-ammonium compound.
Preparation: 'Sugar of milk' is lactose.
Copper ammonium sulfate...........................6
Sugar of milk.....................................2
Sulfur............................................9
Purple torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel is very toxic.
Preparation:
Copper(II)oxide...................................6
Calomel...........................................3
Sulfur............................................5
Aluminum torch:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine aluminum powder..............................6
Flake Aluminum....................................5
Dextrin or lycopodium.............................1
Red and aluminum torch:
Comments: The composition is a modification of the 'Aluminum torch'. Suggested
dimensions for the torch are 2.22cm diameter and 45cm length.
Preparation: Before ramming, this formula should be moistened with a solution
of 1 part shellac in 16 parts alcohol and 1 part of this solution used to
every 36 parts of composition. As this mixture is somewhat difficult to ignite
it is necessary to scoop out a little from the top of the torch and replace it
with a starting fire composition. Meal powder can be used for that purpose.
Sulfur............................................3
Mixed Aluminum....................................3
Extra bright torch:
Comments: According to the original text: "An aluminum torch of heretofore
unheard of brilliance and giving an illumination, in the 2.54cm size, of what
is said to be 100000 candlepower". Testing with paint grade aluminum revealed
that it burns very bright indeed at a steady slow burnrate and with little
residue. It is easily pressed in tubes.
Preparation: Rub the Vaseline into the barium nitrate. Mix the sulfur and the
aluminum separately. Then mix it with the barium nitrate/vaseline mixture. A
starting fire mixture is required for ignition. The 'starting fire #1'
composition can be used for that purpose.
Barium nitrate....................................38
Mixed Aluminum....................................9
Sulfur............................................2
Vaseline..........................................1
10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY:

In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school
chemistry book.
1.
potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide

K(OH)
+
HClO
---->
KClO
+
H O
4
4
2
2.
potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide

"
+
HNO
---->
KNO
+
"
3
3
3.
ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide

NH OH
+
HClO
---->
NH ClO
+
"
3
4
3
4
4.
ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide

NH OH
+
HNO
---->
NH NO
+
"
3
3
3 3
5.
powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A.
aluminum foil
B.
2AlCl
3
(aq)
+
+
6HCl
3Mg
---->
---->
2AlCl
3
3H
3MgCl (aq)
2
2Al
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container
which must be filtered and dried.
This same method works with nitric and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great
excess.
10.1-4 Rocket propellants:
Rocket propellant #1 ('Candy Propellant'):

Comments: This propellant is often refferred to as "candy propellant" or
white propellant
Preparation: It is best prepared by melting the potassium nitrate and sugar
together, but this is a dangerous operation and could result in accidential
ignition during preperation. Dry mixing is possible and much safer but
produces lower quality propellant.
Potassium nitrate.................................74.5
Sugar.............................................25.5
Rocket propellant #2:
Comments: The propellant has a burn rate of 0.0385 inch/sec at 100psi and a
burn rate of 0.04 inch/sec at 300psi. Burn temperature is approx. 1800K. and
ISP=180.
Preparation:
Ammonium nitrate..................................85-90%
Elastomeric binder (HTPB or other urethane plastic).....?
Comments: Stinks like ammonia when mixed, and hardens faster than normal epoxy
curing time. Suggestions for rocket dimensions: 1" rocket tube, 3" fuel
length, Durhanms water putty nozzle 3/8" thick, and 5/16" diameter. Core in
center of fuel about 3/8" diameter through the length.
Preparation:
Ammonium perchlorate, 200 micron..................80
Resin (Epon 815 epoxy & curing agent U)...........20
Copper chromite...................................+1%
Comments: Mixture is somewhat hygroscopic. Low impulse propellant.
Preparation:
Sugar.............................................27
Sulfur............................................10
Rocket propellant #6 (KNO3 propellant):

Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Chris Beauregard
<cpbeaure@descartes.waterloo.edu
Comments: The burning rate of these rocket fuels depends much less on pressure
than that of black powder. This widens the accetable limits of the ratio
nozzle area/fuel surface area.
Preparation:
Carbon............................................24
Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (NaNO3 propellant):
Comments: The burning rate of this rocket fuels depends much less on pressure
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................69
Carbon............................................27
Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (Zinc/Sulfur):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics
Comments: Burns very fast, producing lots of smoke. It is not a very effective
propellant due to its low energy density.
Preparation:
Zinc..............................................67.1%
Sulfur............................................32.9%
Space Shuttle Boosters propellant:
Source: NASA homepage
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum powder...................................16
Ammonium perchlorate..............................69.9
Fe2O3 catalyst....................................0.07
Rubber based binder of polybutadine acrylic acidacrylonitrile.....12.04
Epoxy curing agent................................1.96
ESTES C-class rocket engine propellant:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, Composition from 1994 US Dept. of Labour Material
Safety Data Sheet.
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................13.45
Charcoal..........................................13.81
Dextrin...........................................0.95
Blue strobe rocket propellant:
Source: Greg Gallacci< psygreg@u.washington.edu
Comments: The GE silicone II is noted for having an ammonia-like odor, where
the GE silicones smell more like vinegar. The dimensions of the rocket made
with this propellant were 1 1/8 inch ID, with a 1/2 inch core.
Preparation: Mix the copper oxide, PVC and silicone first, in a plastic bag.
Then mix in the ammonium perchlorate. The stuff is said to be somewhat
crumbly, and presses well.
Silicone II.......................................22
Copper(II)oxide...................................10
PVC...............................................5
10.1-5 colored star compositions:

Red star #1:
Comments: The perchlorate can be substituted by chlorate without changing the
color.
Preparation:
Red gum...........................................13
Lampblack.........................................2
Polyvinyl chloride................................2
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5
Red star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, add the other ingredients
and proceed as usual. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry. They can be
dried in the sun or in a vacuum. Smaller stars dry faster.
Shellac...........................................20
Red star #3:
Comments:
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, and add the other
ingredients.
Shellac...........................................20
Green star #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................28.3
Parlon............................................4.7
Red Gum...........................................14.2
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5.6
Green star #2:
Comments: A simple but nice (somewhat yellowish) green.
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol.
barium nitrate....................................7
potassium chlorate................................7
shellac...........................................2
Blue star #1:
Comments: LNiksch :"These stars burn much faster and more blue than any mix
containing copper carbonate I have tried"
Preparation: Dampen with alcohol/water 70/30 to make cut or pumped stars.
Potassium perchlorate.............................66.5
Red gum...........................................9.9
Cupric oxide......................................13.4
Parlon............................................5.4
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch or Dextrin .........5.6 or 4.8
Blue star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Add 25 volume parts of water to dextrin and mix in the other
ingredients. Use more water if necessary.
Sulfur............................................17
Copper(II)oxide...................................20
Dextrin (binder)..................................3
Red gum or Shellac................................6
Purple star #1:
Comments: Dangerous mixture since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate.
Preparation: Bind with dextrin in water. The ingredients must be very pure.
Strontium sulfate.................................10
Copper sulfate....................................5
Lead chloride.....................................2
Charcoal..........................................2
Sulfur............................................12
Purple star #2:
Copper chloride...................................4
Lead chloride.....................................2
Sulfur............................................14
Yellow star #1:
Comments:
Preparation: Mix dextrin with 4 volume parts of water and mix in the other
ingredients.
Sodium hydrogen carbonate.........................2
Dextrin...........................................2
Yellow star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Bind with shellac in ethanol or dextrin in water.
Sodium oxalate....................................3
Lampblack.........................................2
Orange star #1:

Preparation: Bind with alcohol.
Sodium oxalate....................................8
Shellac powder....................................5
Sulfur............................................3
Orange/Red star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay - "FIMO" will also work, but is
more difficult to mix.
Preparation:
"Sculpy"..........................................22
Fe2O3.............................................2
Salmon color star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay. The result is a salmon-berry

(reddish-orange) color.
Preparation: Warm the sculpy slightly, to make it more mixable and mix it with
the ammonium perchlorate without using solvents. Screen it several times and
make pressed stars. The stars can be baked in an oven at 135C for 20 minutes,
which will result in much harder, more ignitable, more intensely colored
stars. Heating the stars is not recommended though, since it could cause the
stars to ignite.
"Super Sculpy"....................................25
White star #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium Nitrate.................................58
Aluminum..........................................40
Dextrin...........................................2
White star #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium Perchlorate.............................40
Magnesium.........................................32
Sulfur............................................16
Charcoal..........................................12
White star #3:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................1
Brilliant white star:
Comments: Bind with dextrin in water

Preparation:
Aluminum dust.....................................4
Dextrin...........................................1
Veline's green star:

This set of compositions was invented by Robert Veline and is used in
Kosankie's 'Chemistry of Fireworks (Chemistry of color) class'.
Comments: These compositions are part of a matched set invented by Robert
Veline. The compositions mix compatibly to produce a wide range of other
colors. Examples are given below. The wood meal in the prime (see
miscellaneous compositions) makes the stars a little 'fuzzy', making the stars
much more easy to ignite. Without the wood meal prime the stars are often
blown blind.
Preparation: Summary of Robert Veline's own comments: "Potassium perchlorate
is a fine powder. Parlon is Hercules brand or Superchlon brand from Ishihara
co. ltd. Red gum is a fine powder. Copper(II)oxide may be substituted by
copper carbonate without much change in performance. Calcium carbonate is 200
mesh, 'Whiting'. More pure forms slow the burn rate and degrade the color."
Barium nitrate....................................24
Barium carbonate..................................15
Parlon............................................15
Red gum...........................................5
Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................11

Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's blue star:
blown blind.
Copper(II)oxide...................................15
Parlon............................................15
Red gum...........................................9
Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................6
Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's mixed colors:
Comments: These are a few examples of the colors that can be obtained by
mixing a few of Robert Veline's set of star compositions.
Preparation:
Yellow............................................55 green, 45 orange
Chartreuse........................................80 green, 20 orange
Aqua..............................................80 green,20 blue
Turquoise.........................................55 green, 45 blue
Magenta...........................................50 red, 50 blue
Maroon............................................85 red, 15 blue
Peach.............................................60 orange, 25 red, 15 blue
Purple............................................5 orange, 15 red, 80 blue
Electric star #4:

Source: "The Pyroguide" (a document found on internet)
Comments:
Preparation: Bind with shellac in alcohol.
Aluminum, medium..................................2
Dextrin...........................................1
Firefly #1:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Eric Eisack.
Comments:
Preparation: Aluminum is large flake. It was sieved through a windowscreen.

This gives about 30 mesh powder.
Charcoal,air float................................29
Charcoal, 80 mesh.................................10.5
Sulfur............................................6
Aluminum (large flake)............................4.5
Dextrin or CMC....................................+5 or +1
Firefly #2:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Dan Bucciano.
Comments: Can also be used as rocket propellant: Mix the chemicals, dampen,
and granulate through a 20 mesh screen and dry. Use +3% by weight as a tail
effect. Once you have passed the top core of the rocket by 1/2 inch, you may
ram 100% firefly formula the rest of the way. You will end up with a beautiful
long trailing tail of firefly.
Preparation:
Air Float Charcoal................................33
Antimony tri-sulfide..............................5.8
Aluminum (400 mesh,12 micron, spherical)..........4.2
Sulfur............................................4.7
Dextrin...........................................5.2
Firefly #3:
Source: PML Digest 391, post by L.Niksch< LNiksch@aol.com. This formula is
provided with the "firefly aluminum" from Skylighter.
Comments:
Preparation: Ball mill potassium nitrate, Air Float charcoal, sulfur and
Dextrin together for 1 hour. Then add the 36 mesh Charcoal and firefly
aluminum and mix with a spoon. Add water to make a dough mix and cut with a
knife into 3/8" cut stars. Separate stars and dry for 3-4 days. The effect is
a long tiger tail going up and firefly sparkles coming down. Larger stars take
longer to dry, and a damp star produces very little firefly effect.
Charcoal, 36 Mesh.................................11
Sulfur............................................9
Dextrin...........................................10
Aluminum, firefly.................................5
Glitter star:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive, post by Tommy Hakomaki
<tommy.hakomaki@mailbox.swipnet.se
Comments:
Preparation: Wet with ethanol/water (70/30)
Aluminum 200-400 mesh.............................5
Dextrin...........................................4
Antimony(III)sulfide..............................16
Sulfur............................................10
Lampblack.........................................10
White comet #1:

Comments:
Preparation:
Fine charcoal.....................................44
Sulfur............................................15
Dextrin...........................................10
White comet #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine charcoal.....................................24
Sulfur............................................8
Dextrin...........................................9
Matrix comet composition #1:
Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke Stanbridge <mykestan@cleo.murdoch.edu.au
Comments: A matrix comet consists of a matrix composition in which colored
microstars are embedded. It produces a colored tail when fired. The microstars
must be slow-burning while the matrix must be very fast burning. The matrix
must either emit as little light as possible or a lot of light in a color that
is compatible with the color of the microstars. The following green matrix
composition from c1995 is a good starting point for further experimentation.
Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called Vermiculite. It is usually
obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded sizes from around 5 to 10
millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee mill, followed by screening.
The guar binder, although very effective in low amounts, has a very slow
drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that prevents 'radiant heat
source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a fan circulated 'dry
air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to dry properly depending on
the circumstances.
Potasium chlorate, passing 200 mesh...............50
Barium benzoate, passing 100 mesh.................23
Barium carbonate, passing 200 mesh................10
Exfoliated mica, pass 80 mesh, hold 120 mesh......10
Bentonite clay - wyoming, passing 200 mesh........6
Guar gum fine WW250F, passing 200 mesh............1

the circumstances.
Potasium perchlorate, passing 100 mesh............50
Zirconium silicate, passing 325 mesh..............30
Polykarbenite-3 - Armex, passing 200 mesh.........10
'Dragon eggs' star (Crackling star):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Composition from "The best of AFN III"[12], page 121
Comments: Sometimes, Bi2O3 is used instead of Pb3O4. The composition is
extremely sensitive, both to friction and impact. It is also quite poisonous
and explosive. Gloves and an air mask must be worn at all times when handling
this mixture since the mixture contains the very toxic Pb3O4.
Preparation: Add lacquer untill the thickness is like wood putty. Pass the mix
through a screen and dry it to make 1mm squares. These will explode with a
sharp crack shortly after lighting and can be used as star cores.
Pb3O4.............................................81.8
Magnalium (50/50, 100-200 Mesh)...................9.1
Copper(II)oxide...................................9.1
Nitrocellulose lacquer binder.....................10% by volume
Blue star with charcoal tail:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by sweden <sweden@synchron.ct.se. Source of
this composition is Bruce Snowden
Comments:
Preparation: Add isopropyl alcohol for binding. Cut, round and pumped stars
can be made with this composition, but a typical KClO4/Red
gum/Charcoal/dextrin prime will be necessary. A final layer of sodium
nitrate/sulfur/Charcoal (85/5/10), moistened with NC/acetone lacker (w. about
3% NC) can be added. This adds yellowish sparks. Mealpowder can be used
instead if the yellow sparks are not desired.
Basic copper carbonate............................10
Red Gum...........................................10
Charcoal..........................................10
Dextrin...........................................+5
Electric purple star:
Source: Quoted in an AFN Yearbook from David Bleser on "Protecting Electric
Puple Decomposition"
Comments: When very fine powdered ammonium perchlorate was used in a an
attempt to try to increase the burning rate of stars an ammoniacal smell and
an increase in temperature was noticed. The batch of stars was safely disposed
of. By adding 5% potassium dichromate and 1% boric acid the reactions were
prevented.
Preparation:
Copper benzoate...................................8
Magnalium (200-400 Mesh)..........................5
Hexamine..........................................7
Dextrin...........................................+5
Brilliant core:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 219.
Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of
a strong flash of light. The cores burn quickly and are
they are unevenly ignited. To prevent that, these cores
'Brilliant core prime' (see miscellaneous compositions)
round stars. It gives

self propelled when
should be coated with
untill they are round.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................66
Aluminum, fine flake..............................27
Boric acid........................................1
Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................6
Silver star core:
Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of round stars. It burns
less quickly than the brilliant core, and produces a silver flame.
Preparation:
Rosin (BL combustion agent).......................5
Aluminum (fine flake).............................32
Lampblack.........................................2
Silver wave:

Comments: This composition produces a silver fire dust. A large silver fire
dust flame of short duration is obtained. When the ratio perchlorate to
aluminum is changed to 35/65 a small flame with yellowish fire dust of long
duration is obtained.
Preparation:
Aluminum (somewhat coarse flake)..................50
Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+5%
Golden wave #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221
Comments:
Preparation:
Antimony trisulfide...............................9
Boric acid........................................1
Golden wave #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................9
Boric acid........................................1
the circumstances.
the circumstances.
10.1-6 smoke star compositions:
Red smoke star:

Source: Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars,
red"
Comments:
Preparation: Wheat flour can be substituted for milk sugar. Produce as 10mm
cut stars, and prime with meal powder.
Milk sugar........................................20
Rhodamine B conc..................................30
Oil orange........................................22
Yellow smoke star #1:

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 229. Listed as "Yellow dragon"
Comments: The smoke is more dense than that of dye smoke, but it looks dark
yellow against the light of the sun. The smoke is poisonous.
Preparation: Make pressed stars.
Sulfur............................................16
Realgar...........................................59
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White willow"
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................48.5
Realgar...........................................3
Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................+2%
Green smoke star:

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye
compositions for stars, green"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................27
Oil yellow (Butter yellow)........................20
Phthalocyanine blue...............................20
Blue smoke star:
compositions for stars, blue"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................27
Violet smoke star:

compositions for stars, Violet"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................25
Rhodamine B conc..................................13
Oil orange........................................16
White smoke star #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White chrysanthemum
I"
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................7
Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................32
Lampblack.........................................8
II"
Comments:
Preparation:
Realgar...........................................13
Lampblack.........................................5
10.1-7 flash charges:

Flash #1:
Comments: The sulfur can be replaced by antimony trisulfide and the sound of a
salute made with this composition will change very little.
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................23
sulfur............................................27
Flash #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum (dark pyro)..............................30
Flash #3:
Comments: Larger percentage of aluminum results in a stronger flash. This
composition is slightly less sensitive than the usual perchlorate mixtures
which also contain sulfur.
Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................65...70%
Aluminum powder...................................rest (up to 100%)
Flash #4:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum, 400 mesh................................3
Sulfur............................................1
Flash #5:
Comments: This is a relatively safe flash composition. Burns with a brilliant

white light in an open tube, or when unconfined. When well confined, it
produces a loud, low pitched report and a short but intense flash.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................30
Aluminum..........................................20
Flash #6:
Comments: Can be ignited by a fairly low temperature flame, and produces a
greenish flash when magnesium is used. Burns very fast, and produces a loud
report even in an open container.
Preparation:
Magnesium or Aluminum.............................1
Barium sulfate....................................1
Flash #7:
Comments: Relatively insensitive.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4
Alumium (fine mesh)...............................2
sulfur............................................1
Smokeless flash powder:
Comments:
Preparation:
Zirconium.........................................28
Zirconium hydride.................................7
Magnesium.........................................7
Barium nitrate....................................30
Barium oxyde......................................25
Rice starch.......................................5
Photoflash:
temperature: 700C, impact sensitivity test: 26% of TNT. half a pound of this
flash delivers 120 million candlepowder. It is used in the M120A1 and M112A1
flare cartdriges.
Preparation:
Aluminum (20 micron; atomized)....................40
Potassium perchlorate (24 micron).................30
Barium nitrate (150 micron).......................30
Purple Flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................10
Cupric oxide......................................3
PVC...............................................1
Yellow flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................1
Sodium nitrate....................................6
Green flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
barium nitrate....................................3
Aluminum powder...................................5
10.1-8 burst charges:
H3 Bursting charge:
Comments: This energetic burst charge is used for small diameter shells (2...3
inch), since it makes a large and symmetrical burst possible. Besides the
composition below, a ratio of chlorate to hemp coal of 10:3 is also popular.
The sensitivity of this mixture to shock and friction is unexpectedly low, as
long as the composition does not come into contact with sulfur or sulfur
compounds.
Preparation:
Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................25
Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1:
Comments: This energetic burst charge can be used for small shells, but is
unsuitable for the smallest diameters (2...3 inch). It is much safer to handle
than the H3 bursting charge since it contains no chlorates.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................12
Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as burst charge No. 5. This
compositions sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black
powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1. This burst charge is often used in
shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).
Preparation:

Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as burst charge No. 44. The
potassium bichromate catalyses the decomposition of the potassium perchlorate.
This compositions sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of
black powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of
the Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1. This burst charge is often
used in shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).
Preparation:
Potassium
Hemp coal
Potassium
Glutinous
perchlorate.............................70
(or Paulownia coal).....................30
bichromate..............................5
rice starch.............................+2%

black powder. The explosive force of this composition is higher than that of
the Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1, especially when the particle
size of the carbon is small.
Preparation:
Lampblack.........................................25
Potassium bichromate..............................+5%
10.1-9 whistle mixtures:
Whistle mix #1:

Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium salicylate.................................27.5
Whistle mix #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium dinotrophenate..........................70
Whistle mix #3:

Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium benzoate...................................30
Whistle mix #4:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium chlorate...................................10
Sodium salicylate.................................10
Paraffin oil......................................10
Ferric oxide......................................+0.2
Whistle mix #5:
Comments: This mixture is quite sensitive to friction and shock.
Preparation:
Gallic acid.......................................25
10.1-10 priming compositions:

Priming composition #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4
Sulfur............................................1
Shellac...........................................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium permanganate............................54
Powdered iron.....................................47
Comments: Suitable for priming most stars. Chlorate stars or stars containing
ammonium compounds should never be primed with this composition. It can be
stored in small plastic containers.

Preparation:
Potassium nitrate, fine, sieved...................75
Sulfur, fine (preferably flour)...................10
Charcoal, fine, sieved............................15
Comments: Suitable for priming stars. Aluminum and manganese dioxide aid in
ignition, but are not necessary.
Preparation:
Charcoal, fine....................................15
Red gum...........................................4
Manganese dioxide (optional) .....................9
Aluminum, (fine flake or pyro grade; optional)....4
Dextrin...........................................2
Comments: This type of prime helps reduce the friction and impact sensitivity
of chlorate stars which is especially important when shells fire from the
mortar and experience set-back or "kick" from lift acceleration.
Preparation:
Silicon or Aluminum...............................9
Dextrin...........................................3
Comments: This prime is safe to use with chlorate stars and gives a much
better color than a black powder prime. The difference is most noticable on
red stars which tend to a dark salmon color when primed with black powder.
Preparation: Dissolve the potassium nitrate in hot water and mix with the
charcoal.
Charcoal..........................................30
Lampblack.........................................10
Binder............................................+5%
Comments: A standard black powder priming cannot be used with stars that
contain ammonium perchlorate, since a double decomposition reaction forms the
highly hygroscopic ammonium nitrate. This makes the stars unignitable.
Replacing the potassium nitrate prime by this priming composition solves that
problem.
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................80
Paulownia coal....................................15
Sulfur............................................5
Comments: Used for strobe stars of ammonium perchlorate base to prevent
nitrates from the outer priming to react with the ammonium perchlorate. The
layer should be at least 1-2mm thick.
Preparation:
Rosin (BL combustion agent) or Red gum............12
Hemp coal (or paulownia coal).....................6
Potassium bichromate..............................5
10.1-11 Other compositions:
Golden rain #1:

Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224
Comments: Burns with a yellow color, and emits yellow sparks that are formed
by the slowly burning lampblack.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................8
Lampblack.........................................5
Golden rain #2:
by the slowly burning lampblack and the iron filings.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Lampblack.........................................2
Fine iron filings.................................7
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), sulfur based:

Source: Shimizu[1], page 70
Comments: For more details on what the effect looks like and how devices can
be constructed, look at 10.4, "The phenomenon of Senko-Hanabi" in Shimizu's
book (on page 68). Realgar may be used instead of sulfur, see 'Senko Hanabi
(Japanese sparklers), realgar based' for a realgar based formula. The realgar
based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks.

Preparation:
Charcoal or soot..................................10-20
Sulfur............................................20-30
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), realgar based:
book (on page 68). Sulfur may be used instead of realgar, see 'Senko Hanabi
(Japanese sparklers), sulfur based' for a sulfur based formula. This realgar
based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks than the sulfur based
formula.
Preparation:
Charcoal or soot..................................20
Realgar...........................................45
"Pharaoh Snakes":
Comments: When lighted, this composition produces very voluminous snake-shaped
ash. Mercury compounds are very poisonous, and extreme caution should be
excercised during preparing and handling this composition. Wear gloves at all
times, and use a fume hood.
Preparation: Instructions for making mercuric thiocyanate: 1) Dissolve 64
parts of mercuric nitrate in water, and separately dissolve 36 parts potassium
thiocyanate in water. 2) Mix both solutions, and filtrate to collect the
precipitate that forms upon mixing. 3) Rinse the collected precipitate 3 times
with distilled water, and place it in a warm (not hot) place to dry.
Mercuric thiocyanate..............................100
Dragant...........................................5
arabic gum binder.................................qs
Charcoal fire dust #1:

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name
"Chrysanthemum 6". The 6 in that name comes from the ratio of charcoal to
potassium nitrate, which is 6:10.
Comments: A reddish fire dust is obtained, which is relatively shortlived.
When willow charcoal is used instead of pine, long lived fire dust is
obtained.
Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the potassium nitrate must be soaked
into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be used for mixing.
Sulfur............................................7
Pine charcoal.....................................33
obtained.
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate....................49
Sulfur............................................6
Pine charcoal.....................................40
"Chrysanthemum of mystery".
Comments: A weak fire dust is obtained since the composition contains no
sulfur. It creates a different and lonely effect.
Pine charcoal.....................................50
Metal fire dust No.32:

"Winokurs compositions". They originated from "The pyrotechnic phenomenon of
glitter" by R. M. Winokur from Pyrotechnica No 2, february 1978
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................13
Charcoal..........................................10
Barium nitrate....................................14
Aluminum, Atomized................................12
Dextrin...........................................5
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................10
Charcoal..........................................10
Barium nitrate....................................13
Dextrin...........................................4
10.1-12 Sparkler compositions:
Sparkler #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Mixed titanium fines..............................40
Dextrin...........................................18
Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #3:
Source: Chemical abstracts[14] 122, 59596

Comments: Better visual effect, better spark lifting altitude. lower
combustion rate, and better safety.
Preparation:
Charcoal..........................................5-20
Nitroguanidine....................................10-20
Ti or Mg/Al alloy powder (as spark forming component).....10-20
Fe-powder (spark forming)........................10-30
Potassium nitrate.................................balance
Sparkler #4:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg <chm5pf@sun.leeds.ac.uk
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................30
Dextrin...........................................10
Sparkler #5:
Comments:
Preparation: Dextrin binder can probably be used.
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Sparkler #6:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................16
Aluminum flitter..................................24
Shellac...........................................3
Sparkler #7:
Comments:
Preparation:
Shellac...........................................1
Sparkler #8:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine Aluminum.....................................35
Dextrin...........................................15
Sparkler #9:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Charcoal..........................................4
Aluminum..........................................3
Sparkler #10:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original by Bruce Snowden, post by Sweden<
sweden@synchron.ct.se.
Comments: The composition burns very fast and explosively if one doesn't pay
extreme attention towards the diameter of the sparkler. It is found that if
the comp is thinner than 1.8 mm then the propagation stops. If the diameter is
more than 2.0 mm the burning is too fast, sending sparks all the way down to
the ground. Another severe problem is keeping the ingredients mixed in the
suspention. The Ti has a very strong tendensy of ending up in the bottom of
the test tube, making a plug. Another problem is that after the first dipping
and subsequent drying, the second (and last) dipping has to be performed very,
very fast or else the first dipping is spoiled, hence the bound dextrin is
redisolved. Using coarser perchlorate, finer titanium and making the dipping
mixture thicker (by using less solvent) may solve these problems.
Preparation:
Titanium..........................................47
Dextrin...........................................6
Sparkler #11:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Inventor of this composition is Bruce Snowden.
posted by Sweden <sweden@synchron.ct.se
Comments:
Preparation: The aluminum is probably supposed to be atomized, but
experimentation is required.
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #12:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original is by Bruce Snowden. Posted by Sweden<

sweden@synchron.ct.se
Comments:
Preparation: Guar gum comes from the seeds of the legume Cyanopsis
Psoralioides. It should be possible to substitue red gum.
Dextrin...........................................18
Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #13:
Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224.
Comments:
Preparation: Mix the composition with a 10% dextrin solution in water, and dip
iron wire or wood in the moist compositon. Adding 500 parts strontium nitrate
will produce a red color, adding 60 parts barium nitrate will produce a green
color.
Aluminum granules.................................60
Charcoal..........................................2
Sparkler #14:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Tom137 <tom137@aol.com.Composition from
Weingart[5], p. 190.
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum, finely powdered.........................7
Dextrin...........................................3
Water.............................................20
10.2 FIRECRACKERS:
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space
for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
the
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use

flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
sparkler.
By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material
inside it.
Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't
react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount
of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
10.2-1 salutes:
Salute is just the high tech name for anything that its primary purpose
is to just blow up with a sound. Examples of a salute are firecrackers, M-80's
(which are too powerful to be classified as firecrackers), and aerial salutes
(an aerial shell with a flash powder charge). Salutes are very basic and easy
to make.
M-80s, M-160s, Ash cans, Silver salutes, or any other large salutes are
illegal & have been since 1966. Due to The Child Protection Act. (I think
Cherry bombs were even banned before that in 1965) The use or manufacture of
these will result in serious punishment by law. These Devices are VERY
dangerous, & can easily take fingers or a hand. I do not reccomend trying to
make them! They have been known to just go off any damned time they please.
Traditional salutes had 2-3 grams of a 70/30 mix of Potassium
Perchlorate(KClO4)/Aluminum powder. (400-600 mesh) The larger salutes like the
"Quarter Stick" have about 15 grams of powder in them. (No relation to
dynamite or any other high explosive at all) The M-160s have about 10.
Materials:
-carboard tube
-kraft paper
-elmers glue
-visco fuse
-fast buring gun powder(or other fast burning powder)
Procedure:
I make my own tubes alot of the time. I take a piece of kraft paper I
buy from Walmart. About the same thickness of a grocery bag. 1 & 1/2 inches
wide, & about 18 inches long.
Roll it tightly around a 1/2 inch dowel, with Elmers School Glue on one side
of it, spread somewhat thinly. I then pull it off let it dry, while its
drying, I cut 2, 1/4 in. pieces of the 1/2" dowel. Then I round off one end
to go into tube better. I put a bead of Elmer's glue around the piece of dowel
& stick it in. When the tube is dry, drill the hole in (WITH NO EXPLOSIVE IN
THE TUBE) the tube, the same size of your fuse so it fits snugly,& a little of
you'll never guess what.., Elmer's School Glue around the fuse (around 3 in,
or more) to seal it better. Then put your explosive in about 3/4 of the way
up the tube. Do not fill the tube all the way, & glue the other piece of dowel
in.
If you have commercial tubes, put one plug in, I push mine in with a
dowel, they go in hard. Drill the fuse hole out, glue fuse in again. Fill 3/4
the way with explosive, & carefully push the last plug in with the dowel of
the same size of the inside of the plug. If you just ram it in, it may pack
the powder, decreasing performance. If that happens your just screwed. It may
even go off it you ram it too hard!
10.2-2 Bum Style salute:

Materials:
Casing
Powder
Fuse
Tape
Matches (optional)
Magnesium (optional)
Procedure:
1. Put fuse in. It could be in a hole already in the casing, or make one of an
appropriate size.
2. Pour in powder and anything else (match heads, magnesium ect.)
3. Tape well. Wrap the whole thing in a lot of tape to make it strong. Tape
every area equally and especially make sure the ends are strong.
10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs:
Paper tubes:
Almost any pyrotechnic device is made using paper tubes. Rockets,

lances, shells, fountains, mortars, etc. etc. Tubes can be found or bought,
but sometimes it is better to roll your own tubes.
1. Select a strong, reasonably heavy type of paper.

70lb kraft paper works well and is sold in artists
paint stores.
2. Select a glue. Wallpaper glue may be used, but
I've had little success with it. If you do use it,
use far less water than the package tells you to use.
I personally prefer white glue. It makes strong
casings and dries quickly.
3. Place a sheet of paper on a hard, flat surface.
Cut it into strips as wide as long as you want the
casings to be. The length of a strip will determine
the wall thickness of the casings (if necessary, more
strips can be used to obtain casings with thicker
walls). Place one strip in front of you, and tape the
far end to the working surface.
4. Place a dowel of the required diameter on the
strip of paper, perpendicular to the strip, as
indicated in figure 1.
5. To start, apply glue to the first edge of paper
and roll it tightly around the dowel. Pay extra
attention to the edges of the paper when applying
glue. Press the dowel against the table and pull it
towards you to prevent the paper from wrinkling.
6. Now, apply glue to the whole strip of paper.
Again, make sure all the edges are well covered.
Spread the glue evenly over the paper.
7. Start rolling. Pull the dowel towards you to
prevent wrinkling.
8. You will most likely find that the dowel was not
perfectly aligned with the paper and starts moving
sideways as you roll. This can be corrected for to a
certain extend by pulling more on one side of the
dowel. However, it is better to avoid this as it will
make the casings slightly less tight and strong. It
takes some practice to master the technique well.
9 When the end of the paper is reached, cut the paper
parallel to the tape with a sharp knife, and apply
glue to the edges. Roll the last stretch of paper

onto the dowel.
Paper Endplugs:
Materials:
A tube for the endplugs (size can vary)
Glue
A piece of dowelling that is about 1mm

smaller ( as shown on the right) than the
inside diameter of the tube you are using.
It helps if you taper the top of the
dowelling a little. (as shown on the top
right)
8 pieces of Kraft paper (I used grocery

bags)
Step1: Place a blob of glue on each piece

of kraft paper and push them all together.
Now you have a 4 layer thick piece of
kraft paper.
NOTE: I should have used smaller paper
squares, when I took these photos, because
a lot of the paper went to waste.
Step2: Place the piece of Kraft paper

ontop of the piece of dowelling, and press
it over it, untill you form it to the
dowelling.
Step3: Slowly press the whole thing

into the tube (it helps if you
squeeze the paper tighter to the
dowelling, so it will push in easier.
REPEAT STEPS 1,2 and 3, for the
second endplug.
Step4: Push in the other endplug and let

it stand for 5 minutes.
Step5: After your 5 minutes are up, remove

the endplugs and let them dry overnight.
Step6: Once dry, cut off the exess paper off of

both of the plugs and you are done!
StepX: Whenever using paper, wood, or epoxy

endplugs, it is ALLWAYS a good idea to score
the inside of the tube, so the glue will hold
the endplug in better.
10.2-4 Impact Salute:

A more involved (but better) method is described here. (Link to United
Nuclear)
Another type of Torpedo/Impact Salute is made using silver nitrate. Click
here. (Link to a Skylighter bulletin)
Here is a picture showing the construction of torpedoes following United
Nuclears procedure, but using BBs instead of gravel.
These are some of the most fun, but most dangerous, fireworks you can make. If
you do make them, extreme care must be taken. When you throw one of these
against a hard surface they explode with a report and spray of match heads.
You can use many different casings, but I prefer the hotel size shampoo
bottles for these. They are a nice size and fit marbles well.
Warning! Blackpowder contains sulfur, and strike-anywhere matches contain

potassium chlorate (KClO3). From Chem Info: "Potassium chlorate, or any
chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and
sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously
ignite." If you do decide to make these, be very careful and use them as soon
as possible to minimize the risk! The KClO3 is mixed with a binder on the
match so not much will be exposed to the sulfur, but better safe than sorry.
Be very careful if you make these!
Procedure:
1. Fill the casing with strike anywhere (SA) matches. Tap it down to fit as
much as you can.
2. Fill the empty space with powder by putting some in and tapping it down.
Fill it pretty full, but not too full, because you need some room for the
matches to rub together.
3. Screw the cap on (Carefully!). When you shake the device, there should not
be anything moving around inside it.

4. Tape it up very well. Make sure it is equally strong at all points.
To be extra sure it will go off, you can put in marbles. Put one in the end
before filling, and one on the top. When thrown, they will smash together and
set off the charge. I don't think the marbles are a big hazard because once I
did one of these and found a marble only about 10 feet from where the device
went off. Still you don't want them going off near you and you should always
have eye protection.
Note: The matches will obviously be on fire and shoot in all directions. Do
not use these were they can start a fire, such as around dry grass and stuff
like that. I have started small fires with these, be careful!
10.3 Rockets:
Model Rocketry is probley one of the most popular forms of pyrotechnics.
Rockets can be used to propelle explosives, burst charges with pyrotechnic
compositions, flares, or smoke screens. This section with disscuse rocket
basics, propellants, construction, and other facts.
10.3-1 Making Rockets:
1.) Introduction
Composite propellants are solid rocket fuels that are composed of

separate
fuels and oxidizers mixed together in one homogenous mass. This propellant
is then either molded into a grain to be inserted in an engine or cast in an
engine casing and left to harden. The fuels and oxidizers taken separately
are generally unreactive. Composite propellants are used in a number of
engines. There are engines that use water for fuel and an oxidizer, air for
an oxidizer like a ramjet, and a liquid/solid engine that can be throttled.
The rocket motors discussed here a best built by the amateur with propellant
weights below 2 lbs. and preferably under 1 lb. This is still powerful enough
to shoot a sizable rocket to well over 4 miles altitude.
Before I get into propellant mixtures a few terms to learn are:
Specific Impulse - Defined as the impulse (force * time) delivered by
burning a unit weight of propellant in a rocket engine.
Volume Specific Impulse - The product of specific impulse and density. This
is expressed in pound-seconds per cubic inch.
If the propellant's weight is kept constant, a
propellant with a lower Isp but a higher density
may outperform one with a greater Isp but a
lower density.
Specific Force - This is a measurement of the ability for a gas to perform
work. Specific force (F) is expressed in foot-pound per
pound.
3.) OXIDIZERS
Composite propellants contain both an oxidizer and a fuel. The oxidizer
may
be a monopropellant and as such contributes power to the propellant mix.
The ideal oxidizer should decompose into totally gaseous exhaust.
Oxidizers used in composite propellants : Potassium perchlorate (KClO4).
Potassium pechlorate was one of the first used oxidizers. One of it's drawbacks is the product of decomposition ( potasium chloride ) is not a gas at
regular temperatures and does not contribute as a working gas. The KCl
appears as a dense smoke in the rockets exhaust. Burning rates of propellants
made with KClO4 are usually high at 0.8 - 0.9 in/sec at 1000 PSI. Densities
of fuels made with KClO4 also tend to high at 1.8 - 2.0 gm/cc. Specific
impulses are usually below 200 lb-sec/lb. Potassium perchlorate is hardly
ever used im modern propellants.
Ammonium Perchlorate NH4ClO4. This is the oxidizer of choice when
possible.
The products of diassociation of NH4ClO4 are 100% gas. The specific impulse
of propellants using this oxidizer reaches 250 lb-sec/lb. Depending on the
percentage of NH4ClO4 the burning rate may reach or exceed 0.5 in/sec. The
products of exhaust are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O, and HCl. The HCl may pose some
problem if the engine is used in high humidity as the HCl vapor may form
visible hydrochloric acid fumes.
Ammonium Nitrate NH4NO3. This oxidizer is useful as it is usually
available
in bulk weight. The products of disassociation of NH4NO3 are 100% gas. However the temperatures produced by the propellant are low. For this reason,the
specific impulse of NH4NO3 propellants are usually no greater than 180 lb-sec
/lb and low percentage propellants have an Isp of 75 lb-sec/lb. The products
of exhaust of NH4NO3 propellants are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O. These gases cause
no special problems. The burning rate of NH4NO3 Propellants are low, ranging
from 0.05 in/sec to 0.27 in/sec. The higher burning rates are possible if
catalysts are used in the propellant. Prussian blue, chromium compounds
(ammonium dichromate), or cobalt compounds are catalysts that are used.
Ammonium nitrate is hygroscopic and undergoes a phase change if the temperature goes above 90 deg./F. Because of this phase change, some grains may
crack if the temperature cycles about this temperature. The burning temperature of NH4NO3 propellants are lower than any other propellants especially
at low percentages of oxidizer.
Lithium Perchorate LiClO4. Some work has been done using lithium
perchlorate
as an oxidizer. The lithium chloride formed in the exhaust is a gas at high
temperatures. Lithium salts are hygroscopic and must be protected from high
humidity. Burning rates of LiClO4 propellants are similar to KClO4 mixtures.
4.) FUELS
Fuels Used in Composite Propellants : Since most rubbers and polymers
are not
available to the general public, some adjustments have to be made. A good
source of plastics is an auto supply store. There you can find epoxy resin
which can be used as a fuel. You will also find fiberglass resin. This is a
liquid made from polystyrene and polyester resin. It is catalyzed with a few
drops of hardener. PVC plastic can be dissolved in tetrahydofuran to make
a thick paste. This can be mixed with an oxidizer and allowed to dry for an
extended time to form a propellant grain. Asphalt was used in some JATO units
about 30 years ago but it was found lacking when used at high temperatures.
Some fuels used in commercial engines are polyurethane rubber, polysulfide
rubber, and butadiene-acrylic acid. Non ferrous metals are added to propellants to increase the temperature of combustion and consequently the Isp. The
metals most used are aluminum, magnesium, and copper. The metals are usually
added in amounts of 5% - 25%. In engines designed to breath water as an oxidizer, metal amounts to about 50% to 80% of the weight of the propellant. The
other components are usually ammonium perchlorate and a polymer.
Propellant Grain Geometry : If the grain is ignited from end on, like a
candle burns, the thrust will be steady or neutral. If the grain has a hole
in it extending end to end and the combustion takes place from the inside out
then the thrust will rise to a peak or be progressive. This is because the
surface area of the grain becomes greater as it burns whereas in a neutral
grain the surface area remains the same. A cruciform shaped grain produces a
large amount of thrust first then tapers off because the surface area becomes
smaller. If the grain is tubular and the combustion takes place from both the
inside out and the outside in, then the thrust will be neutral but fast
burning.
Wherever you wish the grain not to burn, it must be coated with a
retardent.
Epoxy works well as a retardent as does Elmers white glue. At least two coats
of retardent should be used. An epoxy retardent can be used to retain a grain
in a rocket engine. When tubular grains are used, the igniter is usually put
towards the nose of the rocket and fires backwards towards the nozzle. This
insures the grain is ignited completely.
Inspect the propellant grain for any cracks or imperfections. A crack can
cause the surface area of the propellant to increase astronomically. This can
cause an explosion because of the increased pressure.
5.) PROPELLANT MIXTURES
The ratios of oxidizers and fuels depends on the type of engine desired.
The
amount of oxidizer can be as high as 90% as in some ammonium nitrate mixes to
as little as 20% ammonium perchlorate as in some water breathing engines. Go
to the rocket propellants section for more formulas.
A fast burning mixture: Potassium Perchlorate 20%
Isp=200
Ammonium Perchlorate 55%
Epoxy Resin/Hardener 17%
Powdered Aluminum
8%
This is very fast burning but the exhaust makes a fairly heavy smoke.
A slow burning propellant. Great for sustainer engines.
Isp=165
Ammonium Nitrate
70%
Polyester Resin
18%
Powdered Charcoal
2%
Not very powerful but useful. The charcoal helps keep the combustion steady.
A very powerful mixture: Ammonium Perchlorate 75%
Isp=250
Powdered Aluminum
10%
PVC in THF
15%
All the ingredients should be dampened with THF (tetrahydrofuran) before
mixing. Do this in an area with very good ventilation and wear rubber gloves
to keep from contacting the THF with bare skin. This mixture is best used in
a perforated grain to help the solvent evaporate.
An ammonium nitrate based propellant: Ammonium Nitrate
70%
Isp=160
Powdered Aluminum
5%
Polyester Resin
18%
Ammonium Bichromate 5%
Powdered Charcoal
2%
A good mix when perchlorates are not available.
Do not under any circumstances use chlorates for rocket propellants. You will
not make a rocket, just a pipe bomb with fins.
6.) COMPOUNDING PROPELLANTS
One thing to keep in mind when making a propellant, the volume of
fuel/binder
to volume of oxidizer and additives must not be too low. If it is then the
mixture will be too dry to mix well. It will also hurt the strength of the
grain. You may have to cut down on the amount of oxidizer depending on the
fuel you are using.
For rockets weighing 1 pound and less the easiest way to make the
propellant
is to obtain a suitable container for mixing and put in the bottom of it the
correct amount of fuel/binder. The other ingredients are added one at a time
to the fuel and mixed in. One thing that really determines the success of a
propellant is the particle size of the oxidizer. It should be as finely
powdered as possible. Continue mixing the propellant until it is a homogeneous mixture. Now pour it or stuff it into the engine casing taking care
to eliminate all air bubbles. Any mandrels needed to form the grain to shape
shpould already be lubricated for release and in place. After waiting a suitable time for the binder to harden, remove the mandrels and place the engine
in a warm place to finish curing. Inspect the grain for any cracks or imperfections.
Some large propellant grains are constructed by cementing smaller grains
together. Disks of propellant can be glued and stacked to form a long grain.
The disks can be drilled with a number of holes to make a progressive or
regressive burning grain. The holes are lined up when the disks are stacked.
If you construct a press with a number of guide rods to match the drilled
holes, so much the better. The cement can be a very thin layer of the polymer
used to make the grain. If you are using a PVC based grain, then dampen both
mating surfaces with THF and press them together for a minute before adding
the next disk.
You can also load a cardboard casing with the propellant. After the
propellant is cured, this cartridge is loaded into the engine.
When drilling these propellants or using any power tool for shaping them, use
the lowest speed while checking to make sure no heat is building up on the
cutting surface. If care is used, machining propellants is safe.
7.) ENGINE CONSTRUCTION
The typical engine is designed to operate at 1000 psi. The casing of the
engine should be able to withstand at least 3000 psi as a safety factor. A
low carbon seamless steel tube with 1/16" walls can withstand that sort of
pressure. If the tubing has a welded seam, test fire a few engines to see if
the tubes can take the pressure. One drawback to using steel as an engine
casing is if the engine explodes you have some very lethal shrapnel flying
around. If you use a high strength/high heat plastic you can eliminate some
of this danger. Epoxy can be used to wet down a mat of fiberglass then the
fiberglass is rolled around a large dowel to form a casing. The dowel has to
be coated with a lubricant to keep the epoxy from gluing the casing and
dowel together. Or you can obtain a heavy cardboard tube with the correct ID
and coat it with epoxy then wrap epoxy/fiberglass around it. If the tubes are
constructed properly they can take quite a bit of pressure before splitting
apart.
An rocket engine is equipped with a nozzle to accelerate the exhaust out
of
the rocket at a high velocity. A nozzle has a convergent section that does
this. A divergent section of nozzle is used to lower the exhaust pressure
so the exhaust gases accelerate out of the engine at high speeds.
The nozzle of the engine can be machined out of metal or made of a fireproof
ceramic. If the nozzle and the casing are metal, they can be brazed together
before the engine is loaded. The nozzle can also be screwed into place by
using 4 - 6 screws going through the side of the casing into the nozzle. Care
must be used to see that the screws don't break through the inside of the
nozzle. On smaller rockets, you may be able to get away with plaster of paris
nozzles or for more powerful motors try pressing a mixture of 90% kaolin and
10% aluminum oxide into a nozzle shape in the casing. Dampen the mix with a
little water before pressing. You can make a nozzle die by turning 2 pieces
of hardwood into divergent/convergent sections. This die should be fitted

with a dowel guide pin at the mating points to help keep the die straight.
A nozzle can be made from just a divervent section. This can be easily made
by drilling the required hole in a section of nozzle. Then by drilling out
the first hole with larger drills without completely breaking through, a
diverging nozzle is formed. Smooth out the ID of the nozzle after drilling
the holes. This type of nozzle is pretty good on smaller engines with a 1" ID
or less. By using some ingenuity, you should have no problem in making a
servicable nozzle. A rule of thumb to use for the ID of the nozzle is to use
a hole that has an area (repeat-area,not diameter) 1/3 the area of the ID of
the rocket engine casing.
Most propellants burn unsteadily at low pressures. Solid rocket engines
are
equipped with a blast plug that allows the pressure to build up in the engine
before being blown out like a cork in a bottle. Sometimes the ignitor is
combined with the blast plug in a single unit. A stiff plastic disk makes for
a good plug. It should have a thickness of about 1/16".
The engine is sealed with a plug in the fore section. Depending on the construction of the engine this plug may be made of wood, plastic, or metal. It
is held in place with either screws or epoxy. This plug must make the casing
gas tight. Remember most rockets develop 1000 PSI.
The ignitor is simply an electric match. It can be made with nichrome wire
or a small light bulb. The match is used to ignite a small charge of black
powder that in turn ignites the propellant. The ignitors leads should be
shunted together to eliminate premature ignition. A fuse can be used instead
of electric ignition. If you go this route, be sure of the burning time of
the fuse and allow yourself enough time to retreat to safety after igniting
the fuse. I cannot recommend using a fuse because you cannot stop a fuse
from burning if someone walks into your launch area. With electric ignition,
everything is under your control until the time of launching.
8.) Engine Design
It would be nice to be able to give you the complete info on designing
rocket engines. However, the required math would be a file about 300K in
length. Also this file is mainly about propellants. The other info is gravy.
The best I can offer is to check out your local library for design
and engineering books. If you want to build a rocket to simply shoot off to
stroke your pyro perversions, build a small engine containing no more than
4 oz. of fuel. Use a paper casing to keep the danger down and chances are
very good that if your construction is sound you'll get the thrill of seeing
your rocket go out of sight. If you plan to hoist a payload into suborbital
projectory however, learn about thermodynamics, interior ballistics, and
propellant chemistry.
I recommend trying to get the book Amateur Rocketry Handbook. This
book is out of print but it was put together by the Fort Sill Artillery
School and contains a lot of valuable info.
9.) Testing and Firing
You should construct a few engines exactly the same and test fire a
number of them to find out what to expect when you finally do launch a rocket
. The engines can be buried nozzle end up in the ground and fired. Time the
burning of the engine to figure out the rate of combustion of the propellant.
Inspect the casing to see how it stood up. If everything seems okay you can
construct a static testing fixture to measure the thrust. Keep in mind that
even a small engine can put out a few hundred pounds thrust for a split
second. When you do launch a rocket, keep people away from the launch site
and under cover. Check out the skies for airplanes or other traffic. Don't
*Launch rockets under conditions of low visibility or heavy winds.
10.3-2 SKYROCKETS:
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
10.3-3 Estes Skyrocket:

These rockets use commercial Estes engines.
Procedure taken from
http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/estesskyrocket.html.
Materials:
-Estes rocket engine (C or D size)
-Fused salute/other payload
-Glue
-Tape
-Guidance stick
Procedure:
Scrape out the clay from the top of the engine. I have used D's with
Class C shells and C's with cobs so far. Be sure you check the delay on the
engine. A C6-7 for example has a 7-sec delay, meaning the rocket will probably
be on its way back to the ground when it goes off. You DO NOT want this to
happen! Use C6-3's if possible, if you only have 7's you must scrape out some
of the delay mixture (gray/silver powder between main propellant and ejection
charge) so it will go sooner. Now put the salute so the fuse touches the
ejection charge. If using a cob in a C, it fits almost perfectly. Glue the
payload to the engine and let it dry. Make sure it's on straight or your
rocket will not fly properly (which could be very dangerous!). Once that is
dry, tape the whole thing to your guidance stick (I used skinny dowels). You
can glue the engine to the stick to be extra sure it will hold. Tape seems to
work fine for C's, but for D size I'd definitely glue it along with taping.
C6-3 with cob, not yet wrapped in tape:
10.4 ROMAN CANDLES:

Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to
make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well
worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that
the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After

mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.
Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works,
a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly
larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
22 cal. noisemakers:
These are really stupid, but if you are really bored it will give you
something to do. One good thing about them is if you make them right and use
green fuse, they will go off underwater. Just make sure to tape them to a rock
or something because they float. Just get an empty .22 shell, fill it with
powder, stick a fuse in it, and crimp it over with needle nose pliers. They
aren't any louder than a firecracker, but the "homemade factor" makes them
more fun. The only near-difficult thing is getting it bent over right. If it
isn't bent well, it wont be very good. This picture shows what they should
look like.
.22 Magnum (they are longer than normal .22's are the only ones that work.
regular .22's are too short. You can also use larger cases like .223, .44 or
any other long casing.
.22's properly bent
10.6 Class C Aerial Salute:

I'm certainly not the first person to think of making a Class C shell
into a salute, but I'd never heard of anyone actually trying it, so I decided
to give it a shot. The construction is very simple, just get a normal Class C
shell (preferably one with a boring effect so you don't take apart a good
one), make a small hole to empty the contents, put in some flash powder ,and
seal it up again.
-Step one is to cut a hole in the shell with a knife. The hole should be as
small as possible, while being large enough to shake out all the stars,
powder, etc in the shell. The cut should be made on the top so you don't make
it any larger in diameter sealing it up because it might not fit properly in
the tube.
-Once empty, pour in your flash powder. I used 15g in this shell, you could
probably fit at least 20g if you tried.
-Once the flash has been added, I stuffed in some tissue paper to hold it in
and glued it in place.
-I didn't do a very good job in this one, but next tape over the hole to make
it a bit stronger. Again, try to keep the shell the same diameter so it will
fit in the tube.
-The shell can be launched just like any other, just take extra care in where
the tube is pointing, these can be much more dangerous than ordinary shells.
Also, be sure to label any modified shells so they dont get mixed up with
normal ones.
10.7 Go Getters:
Go Getters are essentially rocket propelled stars. They are used in an
aerial shell or in the head of a rocket and when ignited, they burn with a
brilliant color (brilliant because the formulas all contain Magnesium powder)
and shoot across the sky. Lit on the ground or in the air, they will fly off
in a random direction with their bright tail fire. The Magnesium in these
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
ORANGE
50 %
37 %
50 %
44 %
5 %
5 %
4 %
12 %
Magnesium Powder
13 %
13 %
11 %
12 %
Parlon
17 %
17 %
15 %
17 %
Hexamine
9 %
9 %
8 %
8 %
Strontium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
Cryolite
12 %
8 %
Red Gum
3 %
3 %
3 %
3 %
Boric Acid
3 %
3 %
3 %
3 %
Comments:
The chemicals are first finely powered (if they are lumpy or coarse
crystals) then mixed well together. For the next step, you'll need a small
squeeze bottle, similar to those plastic squeeze ketchup bottles you find in a
restaurant. Take the mixed formula and slowly add Acetone (while mixing) until
it has the consistency of pancake batter. The Acetone will melt the Parlon in
the mixture making it plastic & gooey. Be sure to test the squeeze bottle you
are going to use first by putting some Acetone in it. Acetone will also melt
many plastics, so make sure your squeeze bottle isn't going to melt too. The
melted Parlon in the mixtures will also coat the Magnesium Powder and prevent
it from degrading. The Parlon here not only binds the mixture together, but it
boosts the color of the flame by providing Chlorine to the burning mixture.
Next, stand some M-80 tubes up end on a sheet of Aluminum Foil. Pump the
mixture into them until they are about 80% full. If they are to be used in
shells or rocket heads, insert a piece of Black Match (that's Quickmatch with
the outside paper removed) all the way to the bottom, leaving about 1"
sticking out the top. You can also insert a piece of Visco Safety Fuse, but
the ignition delay will be longer. Let them dry for 3 to 4 days. When lit,
they will burn with a brilliant colored flame and shoot off in a random
direction. Be very careful if you light one on the ground. It can launch in an
unpredictable direction... and with its burning hot Magnesium flame, ignite
whatever it lands on.
10.8 Yogart Mine:
Note: "Mine" in pyrotechnics means "star mine", not "land mine". These are NOT
made to explode when you step on them, they are made to shoot stars into the
air when the fuse is lit.
*procedure taken from
http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/yogurtmine.html.
The traditional way to make mines is to use sturdy cardboard tubes, but here
is another way they can be made.
Materials:
-Yogurt cup with lid (this is where the name comes from!)
-Lift powder (blackpowder or similar)
-Stars (made or taken from other fireworks)
-Anything else you want to add (crackling balls, firecrackers, fuses)
Procedure:
1. Get your yogurt cup (without the lid on) and wrap it in duct tape. There
isn't an exact number of wraps or anything, but give it a minimum of 5 layers
(preferably more).
2. Drill a fuse hole (you can make your hole before wrapping, but this way you
can control the size of the hole better and don't have to work around the fuse
while taping).
3. Pour in lift powder, stars, and anything else.
4. Put lid on and tape. I use two "X" patterns of tape to seal the whole
thing.
5. Light it! Make sure it is in an open area and you are a safe distance away
in case it explodes!
Fused:
Filled with powder:
Added crackling balls for extra fun!:
Lid taped on:
Pics from a few mines I've made:
10.9 Mine Bag:
We begin by taking a 2"

cardboard gun/tube and stand it on end.
We then take 2 pieces of tissue paper (the

extremely light stuff) about 11 inch squares. Center the two pieces of paper
over the tube and with something just smaller than the ID of the tube lightly
push the two pieces of paper down the tube.
Use your other hand to lift the tissue and

allow it to be pushed down. Key thing here, DO NOT penetrate or tear the
tissue, if you do .....start over! Stop when there is about 3 inches of the
tissue still outside of the tube.
Now pull out the rammer and fold the

remaining 3 inches of tissue down around the outside of the tube.
Now fill her up ma ma mia and keep the

change! No, really, in a small tupperware type bowltoss in your effect
stars/components, in this case I am using 1/2" gold comet stars.
I mean Meal, ie: BP)
Then add 1/3 cup of meal coated hulls (and
Then simply add two cap fulls of Goex 4F

(FFFF) to the mix. *NOTE if you are using home made BP USE MORE!
Ok so now go ahead and put the lid on the

bowl and give it a little shake or two.
Now just take and pour the contents onto a

piece of paper, being careful not to have little runaway stars!
Now take a piece of quickmatch, remove the

paper from about 3/4" off the end, and then bend the bare match to form a
letter "L" and lower the leader into the empty mine bag.
Now take the piece of paper with all the

effects on it and use it as a trough to pour all of the effects into the mine
bag. Then carefully fold up the 3 inches of tissue around the outside of the
tube, and sinch and twist it tight around the quickmatch. Then use a 3 inch
long piece of wire to twist and crimp around the tissue and quickmatch sealing
the device.
label the device to its effect.
Your rolling now.......Immediately mark or
As with any single device like a shell,

mine, candle etc. use a piece of visco at the end of your leader for a safer
shooting environment.
Wow you are done, (the device we just made

is to be shot from a 2 inch mortar about 8 inches high)
10.10 Making Cut Stars:

Stars, the pieces of composition that burn to make colors or other effects,
are an essential part of pyrotechincs. There are three types of stars, cut,
round, and pressed/pumped. Cut stars are the easiest to make and make a great
project for a beginning pyro as well as making great fireworks!
Basically, cut stars are made by wetting the composition, flattening it into a
patty and cutting it into cubes that are then dried. Everyone has their own
personal technique, this is how I do it and you may find a better way or some
variation that you find works better.
Materials:
Star composition
Priming composition (depending on star comp)
Ziplock or other sealable plastic bags
Plastic spoons
Wax paper
Rolling pin
Cutting tool
Newspaper
The first step is to mix your star composition ("comp" for short). In the
example here I'm making "Silver Shower #3" from the Composition Database.
It's the same procedure for any composition except for variations in the
liquid used to bind the star (sometimes just water, sometimes water and
alcohol, sometimes just alcohol, etc.) and the safety precautions needed
(mask, gloves, etc.) depending on the chemicals involved. It's a good idea to
lay down newspaper over your work area to help with the cleanup.
Chemicals to make the star comp:
Weighing out the chemicals:
When each chemical is weighed out, it is poured into one of your bags. The bag
should be labled to help you remember what's in it and so you can resuse the
bag.
Chemicals in the bag:
The composition is then thouroughly mixed by shaking it in the bag, pressing

out any lumps you may feel. It must be well mixed to work properly.
Mixing in the bag:
Depending on the composition used, you may need to prime your stars. Priming
is used for compositions that do not light easily, so they must be coated in a
comp that does light more easily to transfer fire to it. There are many
different primes that can be used but the simplest is just fine blackpowder.
Once you have your stars cut, a 50/50 mixture of blackpowder and star comp is
used to coat the stars and then an outer coat of blackpowder to aid ignition.
The 50/50 mix does not have to be measured perfectly, just add one scoop of
star comp to one scoop of BP in a bag and shake to mix it together. Once this
is done, set it aside for later.
50/50 star prime:
The rest of your star comp is now ready to be moistened. I use a seperate
small bag from the one the comp was mixed in. As mentioned earlier, the liquid
used to bind the stars depends on what composition you are using, a common one
is 75/25 water and isopropyl alcohol, but you should check to see if you need
a specific one for your comp. The liquid is added slowly with and eye dropper
to the comp in the bag, which is kneaded to mix the liquid into the comp. The
ammount of liquid needed will depend on your comp, so add slowly and mix often
so you don't find you used too much.
Comp and liquid:
The comp will form a thick paste, it should be wet enough to stick together
well but should not be dripping. Once enough liquid has been added and kneaded
into the comp, it can be dumped onto wax paper.
It should look something like this:
Now your blob of comp needs to be flattened, this is done with a rolling pin,
I put another sheet of wax paper down on top of the comp to keep the rolling
pin a little cleaner, but you should definetly have a dedicated rolling pin,
not the same one you use for cooking!
Rolling the comp flat:
The thickness of the comp depends on how large you want your stars to be. Once
it's the desired thickness you can put away your rolling pin and get your
cutting tool.
Flattened comp:
Your cutting tool can be a regular old knife, a plastic tool, or just about
anything else that will make a cut. With your cutting tool cut the comp into
strips, the width again depends on how large you want your stars to be.
The first cuts:
Next cut the other direction to make cubes out of the strips of comp. When
cutting you'll know if you had too much water because it will be gooey and
difficult to cut or dry and crumbly if you added too little water.
Cutting into cubes:
Now everything should be cut into cubes like the picture below.
Finished cutting:
If it applies to your comp, this is where you added the priming mix set aside
earlier. The stars will still be wet so dust them with your priming mix then
lift the corners of the paper they are on like you are diaper mixing flash
powder to coat the stars evenly in priming mix. This can be done in several
layers, including an outer layer of pure prime on top of the 50/50 mix that
ignites the straigth star comp. This same method can be used to make color
changing stars by coating them in a different composition. If the stars are
drying out and you still need to add prime you can drip on more liquid to get
the prime to stick.
Adding prime to stars:
Once coated, the stars are set aside to dry before they can be used.
Finished stars:
These are now ready to be used in shells, mines or many other pyrotechnic
devices. They should first be tested by lighting a couple on the ground to
observe burn characteristics like color/effect and burn time. Next they can be
tested in a star gun to see how they do in the air, because performance can
sometimes be very different once they are moving at high speed. A star gun is
basically just a one-shot roman candle for testing stars, and it doesn't have
to be anything fancy. Just get a tube that a single star can fit in, add some
BP, stick in a fuse, and light. If the star lights and burns as planned then
everything is good. If it doesn't light you need more prime, and if it doesn't
burn as planned, you may need to do more experimenting with your formulas.
Make sure your stars burn a safe time, you don't want stars to burn so long
they fall back to the ground!
10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls:

(actually, coating anything with Black Powder)
Meal Coated Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls) is the explosive that is used to
break open aerial shells, and at the same time ignite the Stars inside...
without shattering them into dust. "Meal Powder" is nothing more than very
finely powdered Black Powder (Gunpowder). Rice Hulls, for those who don't know
what they are, are simply the shells of ordinary white rice. They look very
much like grass seed... and if you really wanted to, you could use grass seed
in place of Rice Hulls, but it's a very expensive alternative and there are
much better (and less expensive) substitutes. There is nothing special about
Rice Hulls, and in fact, you can use several other materials that are less
expensive and work better, such as Corn Cob. The idea here is to have an
explosive that is easily ignited, strong enough to break the shell and throw
the stars a great distance, but not be so powerful that the explosion shatters
the stars and renders them useless. If a small granular type material is
coated with Black Powder, it burns much faster than just the Black Powder
would alone. Coating the Corn Cob (or whatever you're going to use) not only
increases the burning speed of the Black Powder, but the mixture is also far
more bulky than Black Powder is alone. Because it takes up more space, it
fills the empty gaps in the shell and holds the stars against the wall of the
shell.
The procedure outlined below is the method that we have used for the past
14 years to make Meal Coated Corn Cob.
Rice Hulls have historically been chosen because they are essentially
free, and are considered to be a waste material. I'm told that in some states
the local authorities pour Rice Hulls on the road for added traction in the
winter time when it is slippery. Although they may be very easy to get in some
places, they are nearly impossible to get a hold of in others. A nice
substitute that we've found works even better is Corn Cob. Corn Cob is just
what the name implies. It is dried & granulated Corn Cobs. Both Rice hulls and
Corn Cob are available on our Chemicals & Metals page. In short, whichever
material you choose,
the procedure outlined below will work well for either.
*Note the difference in appearance between Rice Hulls (left) and Corn Cob
(right).
Either one can be used in this process, although Corn Cob does work a bit
better in aerial shells.
Step #1: Making the Drying Bag
The first thing you'll need to make is a drying bag, which is just a large
"pocket" with a fold-over flap. We make one out of some old window screen,
fold the edges over and staple with an ordinary staple gun. Make sure it is
large enough to hold about a cup full of Corn Cob or Rice Hulls. Set this
aside for now, we'll be using it later.
Step #2: Preparing the BP Mix
Now, weigh out 375 grams of Black Powder and place it in a large container.
Make sure that this container has a lid that snaps on and will not leak.
Weigh 75 grams of Dextrin and place it on a piece of paper.
Take the Dextrin that you've just weighed and run it through a strainer into
the measured amount of Black Powder. This breaks up any clumps of Dextrin so
that it will evenly mix with the Black Powder when you shake it.
Snap on the lid to the container and shake the Dextrin & Black Powder mixture
until it's evenly mixed. Set this mixture aside.
Step #3: Wetting the Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls)
Measure out about a full cup of Rice Hulls (or Corn Cob), place them in a
large plastic container and add about 2 cups of warm water.
Tamp down the dry Rice Hulls with your hands until they are all under water
and wet.
Let the Corn Cob or Rice Hulls soak for 20 minutes, occasionally stirring them
and tamping down any that may become dry on top.
Step #4: Drying
What we're going to do now may seem a bit strange, but it works just great.
The hulls need to be just damp at this point... not wet and not too dry. You
can either spread them out and allow them to dry to dampness (which takes
several hours), or do it in 20 seconds flat using your washing machine.
We use the washing machine as a large centrifuge by utilizing the "spin"
cycle. Beware that your wife may kill you if she sees you doing this, so
choose an appropriate time to dry your material.
After they have soaked for 20 minutes, open your drying bag over the washing
machine, and pour in the soaking wet Cob / Hulls and water. The water will
pour right through the screen bag and drain into the washer.
Fold over the top of the drying bag as shown to prevent any of the material
from escaping during the spin.
Washers have a safety mechanism that disables the unit if the lid is opened.
Although you don't need to bypass this feature, you can if you want to watch
what's going on. To do this, look for the small tab or slot that the lid
pushes in to tell the washer that it's closed. Generally, all you have to do
is to stick a screwdriver in the slot and the washer will operate as if the
lid was closed. This really doesn't need to be done, but we've done it to show
the washer operating.
Before you actually spin the Rice Hulls, make sure that you can select a "spin
only" position on the washer control. You might have to play with the control
a bit to find the exact place that will make the unit spin, but not to spray
in water and rinse.
Once you are confident that you can make it spin without spraying water, go
ahead and set the wet bag of Cob / Hulls in there and turn on the spin cycle.
Allow the bag to spin for only 20 seconds. Any longer will make the material
too dry to use.
Remove the bag and have a look inside. They should be dark & damp, but not
wet.
Pour the damp Cob or Hulls into a large plastic container that you've got a
lid for. Make sure that the lid fits well and doesn't leak. The container
should be large enough to hold both the Cob / Hulls and the Black Powder with
plenty of room to spare.
Step #5: Coating
Pour the Black Powder / Dextrin mixture that you made earlier in with the damp
Cob or Hulls.
Snap on the lid, and shake well.
Lay out several sheets of newspaper (2 layers thick) and empty the coated
material onto them. Break up any lumps that may have formed and spread the
coated chunks out as thinly as possible. The coated material will become dry
to the touch when left overnight, but will not be completely dry for a couple
of days.
Be warned that you now have an explosive spread out on the floor. It is very
flammable and it is vital that there are no sources of ignition anywhere in
the area while the Hulls are drying. Do not attempt to speed the drying up by
heating the Hulls in any way.
When dry, you can test the material by igniting a small pile of it (obviously
far, far away from your large quantity of coated drying material). You'll
notice that they burn very, very fast. Much faster than Black Powder does
alone. This is because the fire can propagate faster around the outside of the
Cob / Hulls and flash through the airspaces in between each piece. The coated
Rice Hulls (or coated Corn Cob) can be stored until you're ready to use them
in an aerial shell.
10.12 Strobe Pots:

Strobe Pots are small containers that contain a Strobe Mixture that flashes on
& off when lit
The Bright White Strobe Mix is an easy to make and very entertaining formula.
It will strobe brightly even when made into small pea-sized pieces.
BRIGHT WHITE STROBE
Comments:
Barium Nitrate
51 %
Potassium Nitrate
7 %
Sulfur
19 %
Magnalium
60 to 100 mesh
18 %
Dextrin
5 %
Grind the Barium Nitrate and Potassium Nitrate into a fine powder that
resembles Talcum powder. Mix the Nitrates with the other chemicals and pass
the mixture through a fine screen to break up any lumps. Put the mixture in a
zip-loc plastic baggie and shake well.
Add just a small amount of water to the mix... a little at a
time until it will just begin to stick together when squeezed between your
fingers. Be very careful not to add too much water and shake & knead the
mixture in the baggie each time you add a bit of water to make sure it is all
absorbed.
Once it is damp enough to hold together, you can test some by
squeezing a pea-sized piece between your fingers. You can take the small piece
outside and light it and it will flash brightly.
Strobe Mix will light even if it is a little damp.
It is sometimes difficult to light (especially when damp). If you have one,
the best way to light a tiny test sample of it is with a propane torch.
The damp composition can be pressed into small thimble-sized
paper cups made by rolling up a sheet of paper, After you press in the
composition, insert a 2" length of Visco Safety Fuse and press the composition
around it. When the mixture dries (usually in a couple of days), it will
become rack hard and light easily with a fuse. The Magnalium in the formula is
a special Magnesium & Aluminum alloy that makes the mixture flash so brightly.
10.13 Aerial Shells:
The following is the procedure that we've used to assemble Aerial Shells for
the past 15 years. Aerial Shells are launched from a Mortar (a specialized
cardboard
or HDPE plastic pipe) sending the shell high into the air with its time delay
fuse lit. When the shell reaches its maximum altitude, it explodes, igniting
the colored stars inside and throwing them a great distance. Like all
fireworks, these are by no means safe to manufacture and doing so is illegal
in the United States unless you are licensed by the BATF. An assembled Aerial
Shell "going off" on the ground in front of you (instead of hundreds of feet
in the air) will most likely kill you or leave you disfigured for life. These
directions will work for 4" through 8" shells, the sizes most commonly used by
shell makers. We show the assembly of a 6" shell because it's a little easier
to work with & to photograph. Shells smaller than 4" generally can be
assembled in a simpler fashion (we'll cover that procedure in another section)
and shells larger then 8" get a lot more complicated which we're not going to
cover at all.
To save time& trouble, most people pretty much stick with using plastic shell
casings (as opposed to paper). Although these directions will apply to any
size, the most common are 4",6" and 8". One thing to do before assembling a
plastic shell is to make sure the 2 halves fit together without effort. This
may sound strange, but we've run into several bad casings that just don't fit
together (and it can be quite aggravating to find this out after you've spent
time loading your shell). Everyone seems to have their own way they put shells
together... this is they way we've chosen. We've literally made thousands of
shells over the past 15 years and we have yet to have a failure. It may sound
like an exaggeration, but it is in fact quite true.
Part One, Fusing
The time-delay fuse used in aerial shell is known as 1/4" Time Fuse or
Oriental Time Fuse. It is available in coils of different lengths and has a
nominal outer diameter of 1/4" (although occasionally you will see other
diameters for sale, stick with the 1/4") . All 4", 6" & 8" shells use the same
length of fuse, 1.25" (1-1/4").
It is important that time fuse is cut with a blade and

not a scissor-type device. The powder core is somewhat fragile and if cut with
a scissors or similar device the end is crushed (to varying degrees) and the
powder loosened from its packed state, increasing its burn rate.
Notice the difference in the scissors cut and blade cut end.
Insert the 1.25" long fuse into the bottom half of the
shell, leaving about half the length sticking out the bottom of the shell.
Using a Hot Melt Glue Gun, lay an even bead of glue

around the base of the fuse sealing it to the casing. When cool, do the same
on the inside of the shell. It is important that there be no gaps in the glue
which could allow fire to enter the shell during launch.
Slip a Plastic Drinking

Straw over the fuse end on the inside of the shell and glue into place. There
are some straws that are just either too small or too large to fit over time
fuse. Unfortunately, these are the "free" ones you'll find at your favorite
fast food restaurant. What will fit are the "Flexi-Straws" found in just about
every supermarket. They come in boxes of 100 and are very inexpensive.
shell.
Cut the straw off so it's just under the rim of the
Fill the straw to within 1/4" of the top with

Commercial 3FG black powder or similar may be used.
granulated Black Powder.
Roll up a small ball of Tissue and push it into the

end of the straw with a nail or pencil. It shouldn't be too tight, just tight
enough to hold the powder in and not fall out when the shell is turned over.
The completed, fused shell. Lay a ruler across the rim

to make sure that the fuse tube does not protrude over the edge. If it does,
just clip it short.
Part Two, Loading

Now that your shell is properly fused, it is ready to load with stars and a
break charge.
For ease of assembly (and to protect the fuse

protruding from bottom half), sit the two hemispheres on cardboard tubes or
cups.
Starting with the top half (the one without the fuse),
begin loading stars into the shell. Spread them one layer deep all around the
inside of the hemisphere.
Continue loading until both halves of the shell have a

layer of stars along the inside. Do not load the stars all the way up to the
rim. There is a small lip on shell halves that must fit together, so leave a
space of about 1/4" from the rim on both halves.
Next, you will need some tissue paper, the kind that
you wrap fragile items in or pack you Christmas presents with. You can
certainly use other types of thin paper, even a 1 ply paper towel, but tissue
paper is both thin and strong and easily obtainable.
The next thing you'll need are some Meal Coated Rice Hulls, info on making
them can be found in the 10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls
section.
Cut a piece of tissue paper about 12" square, form it

into a little cup and dump a heaping handful of Coated Rice Hulls into it.
Hold the package of Hulls by

the top and drop it into the shell, quickly spreading the Hulls up against the
wall of stars. The Rice Hulls pressing on the stars will prevent them from
falling in. The tissue paper merely prevents the stars from migrating into the
center of the shell during transport or launch.
Trim the tissue paper so

that it's under the lip of the shell casing. Add or remove some Rice Hulls
until the shell is full to about 1/8" from the top. Check with a straight edge
and be careful not to overfill, it would make it difficult to assemble the
shell. Set this half of the shell aside when complete.
Loading the fused side of the shell with Hulls is a tad more difficult...
Cut another 12" square of

tissue paper and tear a small 1/2" diameter hole in the center. Form it into a
little cup with the hole at the bottom.
Now gently, slide the paper cup over the straw and
let it rest in the shell. If you bump the shell, your stars will go tumbling
to the bottom, so be careful.
Get a cupful of Coated Rice

Hulls and all at once, dump the entire cupful into the shell. Do not do this
slowly, the stars will fall in. If you just dump it in all at once, the Hulls
will hold the stars in place before they've got a chance to fall. Spread the
hulls around evenly.
Trim the tissue paper all around the shell and make
sure that it doesn't extend above the rim.
Do the same as you did on the other shell half,

adding or removing Hulls until the shell is full to just about an 1/8" under
the rim.
Part Three, Finishing & Closing
Dump half a tablespoon of Whistle Mix in each shell

hemisphere. The Formula for Whistle Mix and can be found in the 10.1-9
whistle mixtures section. Some pros like to use Flash Powder (as shown in
the images), but stick with Whistle Mix.
Flash Powder frequently breaks the shell too hard smashing the stars into
dust, or shoots them out so fast that they blow out. You'll find that Whistle
Mix works perfectly almost all the time.
Spread the Whistle Mix around a bit and work it down

into the Rice Hulls. This will help the shell break more evenly.
The shell is now ready to be closed. There are two ways to do this. You can
simply snap the two halves together (as we do) or you can hold a piece of thin
cardboard over one half. We'll show you both ways:
The quick way is to line up

the two shell halves. One has a lip that fits inside the other. Rest the
opposing shell on the lip and tilt them a little toward each other.
With one fast move, snap the

shell together. I know, it looks like everything will go flying, but every
person who we've taught to do it, does it with ease. If you feel you lack the
coordination to accomplish this daring maneuver, try the alternate method...
Place a thin piece of cardboard

(like the kind you find on the back of note pads) on one half of the shell.
Holding it in place, flip the shell over and lay it on the bottom half. Align
the two halves, and slowly pull out the cardboard, snapping the two
hemispheres together.
The shell is now ready to be sealed (you'll need a glass or metal container to
catch the excess solvent that will drip off). Pull the shell just a hair apart
(not too much, just a hair) and using either Xylol or Methylene Chloride in an
eye dropper (squirt bottle, or similar), run the solvent around the seam of
the shell. Rotate the shell so there are no dry gaps. Capillary attraction
will draw the solvent into the seam and melt the plastic shell lips together.
Before the solvent dries, push the shell halves firmly together making sure
that the shell is perfectly sealed.
Support the shell and orient it so the time fuse is pointing

up. The next steps will be the final fusing of the shell and attachment of the
lift charge.
Part 4, Final Fusing & Lift Charge
Using a razor blade, slice the Time Fuse in half to a depth of about 1/4"
You'll need some Black Match, also known as "Crossmatch" (Black Powder coated
cotton string) for the next step. You can see how that is made in the 12.1-2
HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE section.
Rock the blade back & forth

to open up the time fuse and insert a 3" long piece of Crossmatch. Push the
Crossmatch in so it's level with the top of the Time Fuse.
Using some good quality thread (or better yet, dental

floss), wrap a few turns around the Time Fuse & Crossmatch securing them
together. Tape the loose ends of the thread to the shell casing.
Flip the shell over, dip the fuse ring (that came
with your shell casing) in some solvent and insert it in the top hole. The
fuse ring will support the shell as it is loaded into the Mortar.
Lay the shell on its side and run a 4 foot length

(approximately) of Quickmatch through the Fuse Ring, around the shell ending
at the Time Fuse. The Quickmatch doesn't have to actually touch the
Crossmatched Time Fuse. They will both be inside a pouch of Lift Powder
(granulated Black Powder) and will ignite simultaneously. Tape the Quickmatch
to the shell casing every few inches so it is secure. The Quickmatch needs to
be about 18" longer than the Mortar you will be using to fire your shells out
of.
The final step is to add a pouch filled with Lift Powder (coarse granulated
Black Powder). We use homemade Lift Powder although commercial FFG or FFFG
Black Powder can be used. If commercial Black Powder is used, the amount of
lift charge is cut just about in half due to its faster burning speed.
Directions for making Lift Powder can be found in the Basic Components
section. Lift charges are as follows:
Lift Charges
( in grams )
4" Shell 6" shell
8" shell
Homemade Lift
Powder
60
100
200
Commercial Black
Powder
35
60
100
These lift charge amounts should only be taken as a "ballpark" figure. There
are many factors which come into play in determining the amount of lift charge
to use; relative "strength" of the Black Powder, particle size, etc. One
additional parameter is the length of the Mortars. Just as a point of
reference, our 4" Mortars are 24" long and our 6" Mortars are 36" long.
A small pouch must be attached to the bottom of the shell

to hold the lift charge. For the smaller 4" shells "Solo" cone shaped paper
cups can be used. They're cheap and easily obtainable. Regular paper cups
cannot be used because they're coated with wax making it difficult to attach
them to the shell.
Larger shells require that you fashion a pouch out of

paper. A single sheet triangular folded with the ends trimmed and taped makes
an excellent pouch. Of course any design can be used just as long as it can be
attached to the shell and it doesn't leak out the Lift Powder inside.
The pouch is filled with the

appropriate amount of Lift Powder and then securely taped to the bottom of the
shell.
Completed Aerial Shells showing a size comparison

between a 6" shell, 4" shell and 36D breasts.
Always remember to tear off 12 to 18 inches of paper off the end of the
Quickmatch fuse for delay before launching.
As stated before, Aerial Shells are complex and dangerous fireworks.
Although this description of the assembly procedure is complete, many of the
potential problems and warnings have not been addressed. Never attempt the
construction of these devices unless you are licensed and have been properly
trained to do so.
11.0 Fun with fire:
11.1-0 Napalm:
Napalm, is a mixture of fuel and gelling solution that are combined to

produce a thickened mixture. The fuel gel mixture is stringy and sticky, and
readily adheres to most surfaces.
Napalm is less flammable than gasoline and therefore less hazardous. The
more polystyrene in the mixture, the harder it is to ignite. Napalm is harder
to ignite than might be expected. Thermite is typically used to ignite napalm.
A match or even a road flare will not ignite napalm. Some forms of modern
napalm cannot be ignited by a hand grenade.
Napalm was developed at Harvard University in 1942-43 by a team of
chemists led by chemistry professor Louis F. Fieser, who was best known for
his research at Harvard University in organic chemistry which led to the
synthesis of the hormone cortisone. Napalm was formulated for use in bombs and
flame throwers by mixing a powdered aluminium soap of naphthalene with
palmitate (a 16-carbon saturated fatty acid) -- hence napalm [another story
suggests that the term napalm derives from a recipe of Naptha and palm oil].
The aluminum soap of naphtenic and palmitic acids turns gasoline into a sticky
syrup that carries further from projectors and burns more slowly but at a
higher temperature.
11.1-1 military napalm:

It is typically a mixture of benzene (21%), gasoline (33%), and
polystyrene (46%). Benzene is a normal component of gasoline (about 2%), while
the gasoline used in napalm is the same leaded or unleaded gas that is used in
automobiles.
11.1-2 Jolly Roger's napalm(yawn):
ingredients:
-metal bowl
-gasoline
-styrofoam
Procedure:
Fill the bowl up about halfway with gas, then put some chunks of
styrofoam in it. After the styrofoam melts, put more in. When you have a
desired amount of gel. Give it a stir and doump out the eccess gas, and store
the gel in an old(clean) coffee can.
11.1-3 napalm II:

About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam
and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalms is simply one part
gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar
soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap
to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least
a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and
the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no
flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is
stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub
with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a
much larger container than will the double boiler.
11.2 Flame Throwers:

Flame throwers were used a lot in WWI and WWII. The military flame
throwers are kinds hard to make and can be costly. These are the ones that I
have made
Aim-n-flame:
(most of you have made this) Just take an aerosol can containing
flammable liquid, spray, and light the mist. I have found that the best thing
to use is starter fluid; it sprays kinda far and is very flammable.
Improvised aim-n-flame:
Get one of those plastic spray can handles from an auto parts store.
Clamp the handle to a can of starter fluid. Mount an ignition source(small
modified jet torches work best) in the handle and make it so when you pull the
trigger on the handle, the flame is lit on the igniter (tricky). With nozzle
of the torch pointing at the spray path of the starter fluid, the trigger is
pulled, the torch is lit, and the can sprays causing a big flame.
Basically just find a way to make a trigger activated ignition on the
plastic handle that is clamped on to the spray can.
NOTE: You can use any aerosol can that will produce a flame. Also,
dont let the flame go up into the nozzle or it may explode.
Super soakers:
Fill a super soaker with gas.
the stream of gas with a lighter.
Pump it up. Pull the trigger and light
This is cool but after a while can be very dangerous! The gas will eat
away at the plastic that the parts, tank, and gun are made of; if you use it
for too long the tank can burst from the presser and blow up.
I would suggest trying to modify the gun and if possible, replace the
plastic parts with metal parts; and try to find a different tank that wont
get eaten by the gas.
11.3 Thermite:
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen
from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced
by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33.
The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture
can be ignited.
Red thermit:
Comments: This mixture is sometimes used for priming.
Preparation:
Pb3O4.............................................80
Ferro-silicon.....................................20
Other thermite mixes:

A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and
burns hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate
Fine ground Aluminum
Sulfur
5 parts
3 parts
2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of

finely powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety
fuse and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the
aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the
thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals
to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses
sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite must
be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70%
Aluminum 23%
Sulfur 7%
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325
degrees F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle
the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes
to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still
hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to
hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms
sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with water.
This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be made
not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The
resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.
EXOTIC THERMITES:
Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal flouridesmagnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound in the
mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely corrosive and
reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere
contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong
first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the teflon and
the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the
burning mixture. If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of
low energy metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead
flouride and 10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately
equal to cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate
and aluminum. When this burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts
water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as whitelockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to
be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but it
is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of
magnesium works well.
Devises:
THERMITE BOMB:
Use this carefully !
THERMITE WELL:
To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4
in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel over the
hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite and insert
a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This
should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well over your target
and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns,
making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the
well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small
delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten
iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of
the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb.
thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different
configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot
coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take
the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. This produces a
fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.
THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION:
This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want
to make it before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any
dimensions of containers or weights of charges because of the availability of
parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general
description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND.
Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be
electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor
side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz. Drill a
small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the
hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement.
Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the
end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a
thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the thermite is
electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting
of the flash powder charge. Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout
metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to
keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the
wires out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel
proof epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or
gasoline works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap
and it is done.
The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires.
When the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the
container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When
the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and
making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot
thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The
result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For
the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve
the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. But ask yourself, do
you really want to make this?
CAST THERMITE:
This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a
solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it
makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Fine and Coarse
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it
into a mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that
separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in
the sun for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours.
Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
Fighting thermite fires:

Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite
with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it does help contain it and
block some of the heat. The other way is to flood the thermite with a great
amount of water. This helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction.
If you use a small amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite
may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start fires from
the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch
fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.
11.4 Breathing Fire:

This is a cool thing to impress people with at parties and something I
do when I am bored. This can be pretty dangerous, so on the second fire
breathing method, make sure you read the precautions and safety tips.
Smaller flames:
Most people know about holding a lighter in your mouth while the button
is held, then pushing the gas out your mouth and lighting it. I took this a
step further. Take a butane refill canister, breath in deeply, put the nozzle
of the butane can in your mouth and push down on the bottom of the nozzle with
your finger. When your cheeks start to bulge, pull the can away, hold a
lighter in front of your face, push the gas out of your mouth quickly, and
light the gas.
If you cant do it well, try tipping you head back, before lighting the
gas. DO NOT INHALE the gas! You could possibly blow your lungs up while
breathing fire.
BIG flames:
*I got this info from this guys web site.
So Im crediting him.
Its dangerous. I have seen a couple of people burnt and I no longer do it.
A better way to set yourself on fire could once be found here (unfortunately,
that link is no longer with us and Limey is not responding to my e-mail - he
must have done it once too often). After a long period when the Web was devoid
of such valuable information, another site devoted to setting yourself on fire
has finally appeared here (it doesn't give step by step instructions, but I'm
sure you can improvise).
Practice with water

Practice with water to get a fine spray created by putting a small
quantity of water in the bottom of your mouth and blowing air out of a
small opening in you lips as fast as possible. Practice in order to get
the spray as fine as possible and avoid dribbling the water down your
chin as much as possible. If you are silly enough to move on to highly
flammable liquids you will notice that (probably due to the much lower
surface tension) you will inevitably get the lower portion of your face
covered with the liquid. You don't want it all over your chest as well.
Get medical insurance

Get the top notch coverage. Imagine being stuck in a public hospital
ward surrounded by other ghastly burns victims - not exactly a barrel of
laughs, is it. You want your own room with a nice view and no mirror.
Don't do it alone
You will need a friend or two, who don't care about you too much, with
the following equipment.
Fire Extinguisher
When your face catches on fire you will want it extinguished as soon as
possible. In your state of panic you won't be too fussy, but its
preferable to have something which works with flammable liquids, won't
cause chemical burns to your skin and eyes and won't cause you to inhale
nasty chemicals. A damp cloth or blanket might be best.
Car
Make sure your friends know how to get you to the nearest hospital.
Better still, practice just outside the entrance to the casualty
section.
First Aid Kit (optional)

If you only suffer very minor burns (for example, the chemical burns you
get from the liquid) then you don't really need a first aid kit. For
anything more serious you will want to jump in the car straight away.
The advantage of taking a first aid kit is that in years to come, when
people ask you that question ("what happened to your face") you will be
able to explain, smugly, that at least you had the foresight to take a
first aid kit. Unfortunately they will probably think you are stupid as
you are ugly since you realised the danger and still went ahead with it.
Milk (optional)
If you are an optimist its a good idea to have a glass of milk before
you start, to line your stomach. Its inevitable that you swallow some of
the liquid. On the other hand, if they have to perform surgery its
preferable to have an empty stomach. I'll leave it up to your good
judgment.
Flammable liquid
I'm not sure what the best liquid is. I have tried mentholated spirits
(alcohol) which does disgusting things to the inside of your mouth and
shellite (like petrol without the additives). Kerosene is probably
safer, though it probably tastes even worse than shellite. I believe
paraffin is better. There are also some products specially designed for
fire breathing, though some have been withdrawn because they cause
cancer. Unfortunately there are no delicious healthy low calorie drinks
which are also highly flammable.
Having said that (and having it on my web page for quite some time), I
received the following e-mail from someone who seemed to know what he
was talking about:
dude please stop using ANY fuel that burns with out a wick
or in liquid form. This will only cause you great pain, the
reason for paraffin or a professional liquid medium like
'XXXXX' (name deleted - see below) is that it will not burn
on your face if the flame gets too close and will not ignite
liquid on chin etc. I find the fact that you even mention
using alcohol or other highly flammable liquids on your site
and dangerous thing as it gives people the idea of using the
wrong fuel when they otherwise might not have thought about
it or taking yours as a definitive answer to the question
'what to use'.
9
Brand
You need something to hold a flame away from your hand. I have used a
stick with a bit of cloth soaked in the flammable liquid. You light it,
hold it away from your body, take a swig of the liquid and spray it a
bit above the flame. The atomised liquid should catch fire and burn very
quickly (like this). If you are not careful it will burn back towards
your face (like this) and set fire to the liquid on your face. Short,
very fast breaths with liquids which are not too explosive are safest.
Make sure you don't set fire to your hand or your friends either - the
fireball can move quite a distance (like this).
11.5 Fire Balls:

They are cheap and easy to make and can be very impressive. A little
warning, check the wind direction before you set it off. On occasions,
fireballs have had the tendency to turn on their creator (the creator being me
or you).
*Look in the extras section, then go into misc. then into pics; there
are some cool pics of what a nice could look like.
11.5-1 special effects fire ball:
Materials:
-Gasoline
-zip-lock bags
-thick metal tube(about three feet long)
-cherry bomb
-squib
-wire(300ft or longer)
-ignition source
procedure:
Find a BIG gravel pit. Dig a hole in the ground that is as big a round
as the metal tube and is about a foot and a half deep. Shove the metal tube
in the hole and fill dirt in around the space in the hole around the tube.
Make sure the tube is in the ground really tight. Now hook your squib to the
wire. Pull the fuse out of the cherry bomb, and shove the squib in the cherry
bomb and glue up the hole. Put the cherry bomb in the tube so it goes to the
bottom. Now take a plastic bag and fill it with gas and zip it up. Put the
bag down the tube. Step away from the tube with wires in hand till you get to
the end of the wires. Plug your ignition source into the wires. Get down.
And push the button. The ignition source with ignite the squib, which will
set off the cherry bomb, the gas will get ignited and blown out of the tube.
You should see a pretty big fire ball if you do it right. If you want a
bigger fire ball, then put in another bag of gas, and so on. Make sure not to
use too big of an explosive, or the tube may blow up; and make sure you are a
good distance away from it when it goes off.
11.5-2 Petrol Fireball:
To make a huge fireball you will need the following:
-Empty can (empty beans can or something like that)
-Petrol
-Plastic bag
-Black Powder
-Fuse
-Drill bit and Drill(for fuse hole)
(example)
Ok, start by drilling a hole 1 cm from the bottom of the can. Then place
a 5 inch long piece of fuse in the hole so it goes half way through the can.
Then place a 2 cm layer of Black Powder in the can so it cover the fuse. Now
take the plastc bag and pour some petrol in it and hold one of the top corners
so all the petrol will move to one edge of the plastic bag. Now gently swist
and tie the bag just above where the top of the petrol is in the bag.(confused
yet???). Now put the little pouch of petrol into the can so it is directly
above the layer of Black Powder and strech the very top part of the plastic
bag over the top of the can and cellotape it tight so it will remain hanging
over the Black Powder. Then put an improvised lid on the can (circle of
cardboard with a bit of cellotape holding it so the tin. When complete, place
on a flat surface and light the fuse then run like hell and watch as it
exploded with a huge fireball, and don't forget to take some pictures of your
pyrotechnic devices and send them in for me to put on the website.
11.5-3 Fireball from Hydrogen:

Although these are not the most impressive fireballs, they have an
advantage of being able to float in the air unlike others therefore some
interesting effects can be created. These are quite simple to make as the
chemicals are easy to get hold of. To create, fill a balloon with Hydrogen and
tie it up.
11.5-4 Fireball from Butane:
Butane can be bought as lighter gas and as gas for some gas fires which
makes it an easy option for fireballs as it is easy to obtain. Filling the
balloon can be difficult so I use an old pencil torch lighter case. I have
taken the valve off the top and then when I want to use it, I just stick the
top into the balloon and fill from the other end as if I was filling the
torch. Once it is filled, I just tie it and start having fun.
11.5-5 Fireball from Propane:
Fireballs created from Propane seem to be the most impressive. Propane
can be obtained from gas cylinders used for most large fires. It is also the
easiest to fill the balloon as all that is needed is for the balloon to be put
over the valve and for it to be turned on. Also, there is greater pressure
therefore lots can be made very quickly. The only trouble is that it smells
pretty bad. In case you haven't figured it out, all you do is put the balloon
over the nozzle and turn on the gas. Once its filled, tie the balloon and get
ready to use. Watch out for these ones. A friend did this and the fire ball
engulfed him. Although fun, (I also have been engulfed in fire a few times and
not just by gas filled balloons) it kinda singes you hair.
(propane balloon explosion)
11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges:
Naphthalene charges, or, more commonly nicknamed "Nap Bombs," are used
in the movie industry to simulate fiery explosions that look somewhat like a
plume of burning gasoline. They do have quite an impressive effect, and
surprisingly this effect is somewhat easy to duplicate, provided that one has
access to the proper materials.
NOTE: The term "nap bomb" is used only because it is the common
Hollywood nickname for naphthalene charges, and it is in no way meant to
depict "KeWl BoMZ" or any other similar destructive devices, nor does this
site advocate or depict methods for making "KeWl BoMZ" or similar devices.
Anyone considering to use and/or actually using naphthalene charges as
destructive devices deserves to be emasculated with a pair of laboratory
forceps, impaled upon a large rotissery apparatus, and slowly nitrated in the
usual mixed acids.
The first material that must be procured is Naphthalene, which is a
white volatile solid, formula C10H8. It is available in the form of mothballs
or moth flakes. Be careful when purchasing the mothballs though, as most
mothballs nowadays are made of Paradichlorobenzene, which will not burn and
therefore not work. Check the package; usually it will say either "Guarantee:
99% Paradichlorobenzene," or "Guarantee: 99% Naphthalene." Buy the "99%
Naphthalene" type. The next nessesary material is Black Powder or Pyrodex
(NOTE: Smokeless Powder will NOT work for this). Black Powder works a bit
better than Pyrodex, but Pyrodex still produces satisfactory results.
First, take a parallel wound kraft paper tube (the exact dimensions are
not nessesary), ram an epoxy/sawdust endplug into one end of the tube, and
allow the endplug mixture to harden and cure. When the endplug has completely
solidified, drill a small (~1/8") hole just above the inner end of the
endplug, perhaps about 1/8" beyond the inner end. Then insert a length of
Visco fuse into the hole, and seal around it with hot-melt glue. Then, fill
1/4th of the remaining space in the tube with Black Powder or Pyrodex, making
sure it does not get packed or tamped. Next, mix 30% by weight of BP/Pyrodex
with 70% by weight of Naphthalene by the diaper method, and fill about 3/8ths
(one and a half 4ths)of the tube space with it. Next, fill the remaining
5/8ths of the cardboard tube with powdered Naphthalene (powder it in a mortar
and pestle, or by coffee milling it). Now bury it in the ground until only 1"
or so of the tube is sticking out of the ground. You're done! If any of this
has confused you, see the below diagram.
(EXAMPLE)
11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS:
Materials:
-empty soup can
-drill
-black/ or smokeless powder
-Cremora coffee creamer
-visco cannon fuse
procedure:
You can make these as large as you want, but start with a small #10 can
to experiment and scale up from there.
Drill a fuse or electric match sized hole through the side of a #10 can,
right down next to the bottom, as far down as you can go, and still be IN the
can.
Then sprinkle some black powder or smokeless powder into the can, so
that the bottom is just barely covered with it. Then cover the black powder
with a layer of tissue paper.
Then fill the can with Cremora (brand powdered coffee creamernot all
creamers will work), or calf's milk substitute (from yer local feed and seed
or ag supply store). The higher the fat content, the better the fireball.
Next, (and avoid having any part of yourself that you care about over
the top of the can) insert the fuse or electric match into the hole you
drilled. Be sure and be at least 50 feet away, if not further, when igniting
it. A 5-gallon bucket makes a HUGE fireball and is basically done the same
way. You can whiten the flame, by adding some bright aluminum powder to the
Cremora.
11.6 Greek Fire:
Greek fire was like the first napalm. It was used in war back in the
roman days, like on the movie Gladiator. This stuff is a bit unheard of
these days.
Greek fire is made as follows: take sulfur, tartar, sarcocolla, pitch,
melted saltpeter, petroleum oil, and oil of gum, boil all these together,
impregnate tow with the mixture, and the material is ready to be set on fire.
This fire cannot be extinguished by urine, or by vinegar, or by sand.
11.7 Other Incendiaries:
Chlorate-Sugar mix:
This mixture can be either an incendiary or an explosive. Sugar is the
common granulated household type. Either potassium chlorate (KClO3) or sodium
chlorate (NaClO3) can be used; but potassium is potassium is preferred.
Proportions can be by equal parts or by volume, or 3 parts chlorate to 2 parts
sugar preferred. Mix in or on a non-sparking surface. Unconfined, the mixture
is an incendiary. Confined in a tightly capped length of pipe, it will explode
when a spark is introduced. Such a pipe will produce lovely casualties, but is
not very good for breaching of cutting up. Concentrated sulfuric acid will
ignite this very fast burning incendiary mixture. Placing the acid in a
gelatin capsule, balloon, or other suitable container will provide a delay,
(length of which depends on how long it takes for the acid to eat through the
container).
Potassium Permanganate And Sugar:

Another fast burning, first fire mix is obtained by mixing potassium
permanganate, 9 parts, to one part sugar. It is some what hotter than the
chlorate sugar mix, and can be ignited by the addition of a few drops of
glycerine.
Molded Bricks That Burn:

Proportions are 3 parts aluminum powder, 4 parts water and 5 parts
plaster of paris. Mix the aluminum and plaster thoroughly together, then add
the water and stir vigorously. Pour the resulting mix into a mold, let harden,
and then dry for 2 to 3 weeks. These blocks are hard to ignite, and take a
long time to make, but when ignited on mild steal, they have a tendency to
melt it.
The Fire Bottle:

Fill a good Jack Daniel's bottle about one-fifth to one-fourth full with
sulfuric acid. Fill the remainder with gasoline, kerosine, or a good
combination of the two and mix thoroughly. Add water to Potassium Chlorate and
sugar mix, and soak rags in the mix. Wrap the rags around the bottle, tie in
place, and allow to dry. When thrown at a T-62 or other target, the bottle
will break, the acid will ignite the chlorate-sugar mix on the rags, which
will ignite the fuel.
11.8 Negetive-X
*Start a Fire with a drop of Water!

We used to call it "Negative-X" (I have no idea why), but I'm sure it's
known by other names. Mix the powders together, pour it in a small pile and
put a drop of water on it. In about a second, it will bubble and smoke and
instantly burst into a blue-green flame.
"NEGATIVE-X"
Ammonium Nitrate
28 %
Ammonium Chloride
3 %
Zinc Dust
69 %
Comments:
Grind the Ammonium Nitrate and the Ammonium Chloride together in a
mortar & pestle until they are a fine powder. Add the proper amount of Zinc
Dust and mix well.
[*Note that as soon as this is mixed, it becomes very water sensitive!]
Even a tiny amount of water will ignite the mixture. You must use this
composition immediately after it is made - DO NOT STORE IT for any length of
time, and do not mix it with other chemicals. It's a good idea to mix this
formula & conduct this experiment outside.
Take about a teaspoon full of the mixture and make a small pile of it on
the ground. Add a drop of water and quickly stand back. In a second it will
bubble, hiss and smoke, and instantly burst into a blue-green flame. If you're
really bored, you can make a few piles of Negative-X on the ground and try and
hit them with a water pistol from a distance away.
WARNING:
Don't store this stuff, use all that you make each time. Eventually,
(depending on how humid it is where you are) it will absorb enough moisture
from the air (or whatever else it is touching) and ignite itself without
warning! This is NOT something you want to mix on a rainy day.
11.9 How to make alcohol:
First you must obtain (steal) a holding tank. I recommend those 6 gallon
Alhambra water jugs which are often left on porches and in driveways for
refills. Just take it off the porch at 3:00 AM and run it home. Now, put it
where you are going to put your still. They need to be kept together. Hide
your still even if you don't have parents that will shit when they see it.
This is illegal by federal law, and you could get busted pretty well. Make
your still so it is collapsible and you can fit it all into a small box. Hide
the box in your room. When you are going to use the still, take it out and
hide it behind some bushes where a passing state trooper, snoopy neighbor, or
phed busting you for pirated games won't see it. Keep the Alhambra jug where
the still is going to be, cause they are way too big to hide anywhere.
Also, keep your still somewhere with a good breeze or away from people
who will smell it. When you are fermenting the shit, it will smell like puke
or even worse. When you are distilling it, your heater might put off smoke.
The alcohol will smell like alcohol, and heated mash smells worse than shit.
Now go buy a shitload of fresh or frozen whatever (check the list
below). Frozen corn will be easiest to deal with because it is already cut
off the cob and is very forgiving with beginners. Besides, it's all part of a
great American tradition: Moonshine!
+--------------------------+------------------------+
| Ingredient
| Product
|
|--------------------------|------------------------|
| Rye or Potatoes
| Vodka
|
| Molasses or Sugar Cane | Rum
|
| Corn
| Moonshine
|
| Wheat or Rye
| Whiskey
|
| Barley or Rice
| Beer
|
| Grapes
| Wine
|
| Apple Juice
| Hard Cider
|
| Rice
| Sake
|
+--------------------------+------------------------+
Put about 10 bags of corn in each jug and no more, because the carbon
dioxide being released sometime pushes it up and out and you could get the
shit all over the ground. What a waste. Besides, it will start to rot in the
ground and smell even worse.
Anyway, add just enough lukewarm water to cover the surface and leave
the stuff exposed to air for about 2 weeks at room temperature. After a few
days it will bubble and look and smell like puke, but that's no problem. It
should do that. Just be sure you've got adequate ventilation.
Installing a small fan in your Alhambra jug is no problem. Drilling
holes in the sides of plastic with a sharp drill bit is easy. Drill two holes
near the top, where there won't be any corn (fans do tend to heat up and short
circuit when exposed to water) and insert two tubes. Make the fan blowing air
into your jug, and not out. The mist from the mash will wear it down after a
while.
Now, for the still. This is complicated, so bear with us. First, take
a
big beaker or something like it and put a big tube going out the top. You
should glue around this tube, so none of the gas will escape. Now, run a
smaller tube into the side of the bigger tube, and connect a valve to it.
Now, connect the other side of the valve to your huge thing of fermented
whatever,
but make sure the tube connects at the bottom and goes straight across so the
pressure of the water will push it along the pipe (pumps get too messy). I
mount my Alhambra jug on bricks, so now the whole thing looks like this:
|
| |
Fermented |
__ __
| |
Shit
|_____|______| |
___________/----|_|-----, |
|
|
Valve
|--|
|------|
/ \
|Bricks|
/
\
|------|
/Beaker\
|______|
(________)
Now, bend the big pipe around, so it is pointing down at a 45 degree
angle. Connect a bigger pipe to it. This will be the condenser. Connect a
small pipe leading out of the condenser to a big cup or something that you
will catch your 200 proof alcohol in. Also, make a rack to put the beaker on,
so you can put a can of sterno or a bunsen burner under it. I would recommend
putting a thermometer inside the beaker, so you can leave the temperature just
above the boiling point of alcohol. If you don't, you won't get very strong
alcohol.
________
|
/ ____ \
Fermented |
__ __
/ /
\ \/\
Shit
|_____|______| |
\
\
___________/----|_|-----, |
/cond-\
|
|
Valve
|--|
\ enser>
|------|
|Bricks|
|------|
|
|
|------|
|
|
|------|
|______|
/ \
\
/
/
\
\ /
/Beaker\
\ \_____________
(________)
\-------------,|
/
/\
\
^ Pipe ^
||
|
\/
|
|___________|
| __||__
|
| Alcohol |
| |Sterno| |
\_________/
Everything should be a little farther apart than depicted in the picture,

but I only wanted to use 60 columns (80 columns with 1 inch margins).
However, the longer the tube leading away from the beaker to the condenser,
the longer the distillation process will take, so keep that quite close.
If you get the alcohol too close to the flame, it might evaporate. Keep that
at the end of a long pipe.
Now, there is only one last step. Take a very long length of surgical
tubing (the stuff they make water weenies out of) and wrap it around the
condenser, leaving almost no space in between coils. I usually wrap some duct
tape around the tubing so it keeps it in place and insulates it a bit. Now,
run one end of the tubing to mom's flower garden and the other end to a
valve. Connect the other end of the valve to a hose or some other cold water
source. Don't do anything stupid like use liquid nitrogen instead of water
cause it won't speed up the distilling process. This is what the finished
still should look like:
________
|
/ ____ \ ______
Fermented |
__ __
/ /
\ \/,----- -=> Heated
Shit
|_____|______| |
\ / \
__ __ Water
___________/----|_|-----, |
/ / / \____|__
|
|
Valve
|--|
\/ / / >--|_|- <=- Cold
|------|
/ \
\/ / / Valve
Water
|Bricks|
/
\
\/ /
|------|
/Beaker\
\ \_____________
|
|
(________)
\-------------,|
|------|
/
/\
\
^ Pipe ^
||
|
|
|
\/
|
|___________|
|------|
| __||__ |
| Alcohol |
|______|
| |Sterno| |
\_________/
A friend of mine was going to be doing a lot of distilling cause he made
a HUGE still. He was going first- class. He lived near a creek that stayed
pretty cool, so he was going to figure out how to use that unlimited supply of
water. The creek grew plenty of bushes, so he hid his still in them. He even
painted the valves green and stuck them out of the bushes and glued leaves on
to them so nobody could tell it was a still. But he still didn't have any
water. He couldn't have a small electric pump, cause he didn't have any
electricity.
As it turns out, he now has 4 lengths of surgical tubing going down to
the water, around his (superhuge) condenser. He made a rock and concrete dam
about 3.5 feet high, to get a fast stream of suction. He then ran the tubes
down to below the dam, and sucked on them. He siphons the water up and out of
the creek, through the condenser, and back into the creek. His still is
awesome! That thing can run as much as he wants it too, cause he isn't
wasting any water, and it won't show up on any water bill.
If you are going to be distilling a lot of stuff, you better make a tube
going out of the bottom of the beaker so you can dump out the water and
garbage and every now and then. Of course, connect it to a valve, so you
won't loose any precious alcohol that's trying to turn into steam in the
beaker. Make sure any tubes (like this one) aren't made out of glass and can
melt. It's bad when tubes melt, cause that means you have to rebuild the
still almost from scratch.
Now that you've got it all set up and the corn (or whatever) is
fermented
and hooked up to the beaker, turn the valve on a bit to drip some puke of your
Alhambra jug into your beaker. Turn on the sterno or bunsen burner to a high
flame so it will heat up the beaker. Turn on the cold-water valve so you have
cold water flowing around the condenser at a trickle. If the water coming out
of the condenser is cold, turn the valve so even less water is coming out,
because you don't want to use too much water. But, if it's warm, it's not
doing its job. Keep the water coming out about lukewarm.
As this thing's just starting up, keep a good eye on your thermometer.
You want to keep the temperature just above the boiling point of alcohol
(which is less than the boiling point of water: 212 degrees). This is so you
can separate the water from the alcohol by turning only the alcohol into
steam, and you can get better stuff. If you're not sure of the boiling point
of alcohol, ask your science teacher, or look it up, cause I don't know
either.
Now, watch it, and adjust the valves so the fermented stuff coming out
of
the Alhambra jug just equals the steam going up the pipe, and it won't fill up
or boil dry. Adjust the cold water valve so the water coming out of the
surgical tubing is slightly warm. Now, wait. Read a book or download another
Six Feet Under production, but always keep an eye on the still. When the
Alhambra jug is empty and the beaker is dry, you are done. Don't expect this
to go very quick, however.
If you like almost pure alcohol, distill it again. If you do it right,
you could have no water at all inside your liquid high. However, even I
haven't been able to get a batch that good. All it takes is practice and
getting to know your still. They all have different personalities.
You now have around 198 proof ethyl alcohol in that collecting cup.
Pour
the alcohol through activated charcoal to remove that nasty shit that makes
you retarded and blind. The stuff is now safe to drink, but don't. One swig
of 200 proof alcohol will probably kill you. 150 proof is only for
experienced drinkers (derelicts). The highest proof I've ever had is 138, and
it must have been the worst experience of my life.
Now, mix it in with about 3 parts alcohol and 5 parts Kool-Aid or
distilled water or something. The more Kool-Aid or water, the less the
proofage. To give you an idea, beer is around 6 proof, wine coolers are
around 12, and wine is around 20. I wouldn't recommend more than 100 proof at
all. If this is your first time, make sure you have a little bit alcohol and a
shitload of Kool-Aid. You probably won't notice the taste or overdose that
way.
If it goes wrong, keep trying. Usually the first time, the stuff will
taste like shit and be almost all water. It just takes some practice. Also,
proof is roughly percentage times 2. 50% alcohol is 100 proof alcohol. 100%
is way too high to drink. Never go above 75 percent alcohol (3 parts alcohol,
1 part something else), which is 150 proof. That shit could kill you.
11.10 Plaster incendiary:
It is made by mixing 6 parts by weight of anhydrous calcium sulphate

(Plaster of Paris) and 4 parts by weight of "paint-grade" aluminium powder this is about 300 mesh, and spherical. Mix the two as thoroughly as you can
(screen it to remove lumps), then add enough water to form a thin paste, that
can be poured into moulds. Pour it into the mould of your choice, I chose
paper tubes, and let the plaster set. Then carefully remove the block from
your mould, and place it on a baking sheet. Bake it in the oven at gas mark 1
for a few hours, until nearly all the water has been driven out (ie, until the
block is nearly equal in weight to the starting weight of your plaster and
aluminium), then increase the temperature to gas mark 2 or even 3 until all
the water has gone. Don't get it too hot too soon, the charge might crack.
11.11 Flash Paper:

Flash Paper is made using the same process as touch paper but the key
difference is as the name suggests, it goes off with a flash rather than
smoldering. It is easily prepared at home using a strong oxidizer such as
chlorates. The method described will work with any oxidizer unless it is
insoluble in water (which is unlikely as I cant think of any non-polar

oxidizers). I use either Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate as both are
strong oxidizers and easily obtained. Although Potassium Chlorate is preferred
as it isn't hydroscopic, Sodium Chlorate can be used and still work even when
damp if the Flash Paper is prepared well. The materials required will be
boiling water, kitchen towels (although anything can be used, just make sure
its absorbent), strong oxidizer (chlorate as it is easily obtained) and two
containers.
To start, put the kettle to boil. The amount of water required varies
depending on the amount of Flash Paper you intend to make. Mean while, take
your paper and fold it in half two or three times. Continue until you have a
desired quantity.
Now take the boiling water and pour it into one of the containers. Now
begin to add your oxidizer and stir it until no more will dissolve. This is
called a super saturated solution. Take a sheet of kitchen towel and hold it
over the container and begin to pour the super saturated solution over it
until it is all soaked. Now put it to the side and repeat with another bit of
kitchen towel. Once it has all been poured through, pour everything in the
collection container back into the pouring one and repeat. Continue this
process until no more solution is left. You now need to dry your Flash Paper
and it will then be ready to be used.
Flash Paper burns very fast (faster than black powder if made well) even
unconfined. You must hold it with something such as pliers and not hold it in
your hand. It is more dangerous than the Flash Paper that can be bought I
think and I would not be surprised either to find that it is. Also, due to how
light it is, it also has the tendency to propel itself if lit and not held
with something. Lower quality Flash Paper could be used as a fuse however you
should familiarize yourself with its burning properties before you consider
using it as a fuse.
12.0 Fuses, delays, and timers:

You will most likely need to make something to ingnite your devise or
composition. Here is everything you will need to know to do that.
12.1 FUSE IGNITION:

12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse:
(roll of Visco)
(piece of Visco)
Materials Needed:
-Hobby Syringe (syringe without needle)
I had a bit of a hard time finding these. I eventually found them at my
local pharmacy, who sold them for the application of topical intra-oral
medication. They usually cost about 25 cents, although the lady behind the
counter gave me four of them for free. Also, I have heard that a farmer's
supply store is a great place to look (the farmers use them for veterinary
purposes).
-Hollow-cored Cotton String
I buy hollow-cored string from a local art store, which sells it because
it makes an excellent wick for oil lamps or homemade candles. It usually comes
with another, somewhat thinner string threaded through the core to prevent
stretching. This should be removed.
-Meal Powder
The meal powder that I had used was the homemade ball-milled variety.
However, commercial meal powder from the local firearms shop works just as
well.
-Dextrin
I had used homemade dextrin in my Visco, but dextrin from health food
stores or Skylighter works just as well.
-25% Nitrocellulose Lacquer (optionally dyed green or red)
The nitrocellulose lacquer can be either homemade or bought from Skylighter. I
used homemade. Also, adding a bit of camphor to the NC lacquer will
plasticize the nitrocellulose after the solvent has evapourated, allowing
for a more flexible fuse (the commercial plastic "Celluloid" is
nitrocellulose plasticized with camphor).
Procedure:
1: Make Black Powder (BP) paste: Take 10 parts by weight of meal powder and
thoroughly mix with 1 part by weight of dextrin (ie, mill it in a ball mill
for half an hour). Boil some water and add it slowly to the BP/dextrin mix,
while stirring, until the mixture has twice the consistency of white glue.
2: Remove the plunger from the syringe and plug the hole at the bottom with a
thumb. Pour the BP paste into the syringe, filling it almost to the top.
Reinsert the plunger and turn the syringe upside down, and depress the plunger
until all excess air in the syringe has been removed.
3: Insert the nozzle of the hobby syringe into one end of the hollow core
string and slowly depress the plunger so as to allow maximum consistency of BP
paste in the center of the Visco, allowing for a more consistent burn rate.
The string should ideally be 1 meter in length. Refill the syringe using the
method outlined in step 2 whenever necessary. Continue injecting the BP paste
until it is visibly exuding from the end opposite of injection. This means
that the core is as full as it is going to get.
4: Remove the string from the syringe's nozzle and lay it down on a flat
surface. Gently roll the string between the heel of one's hands and the flat
surface to further even out BP paste distribution and increase burn rate
consistency. Allow the string to dry outside in the sun for a period of 24
hours, turning the string over every hour or so to prevent the BP paste filler
from becoming uneven.
5: After the filler has dried, apply a thin coating of 25% Nitrocellulose
lacquer to the entire external surface of the string and allow it to dry in
the sun. This will waterproof the fuse and allow it to be used in potentially
wet situations.
6: Let the fuse sit in the sun for 24 hours after all the wet fuse components
have dried to ensure minimum moisture content, which interferes with the
burning of the fuse. Check the burn rate, and label each length of fuse with a
sticker that indicates the exact burn rate of the particular fuse. This is not
necessary but highly recommended as each fuse's burn rate may be different
from the next one's.
7: The imitation Visco is now ready for use. It can be used wherever
commercial Visco is used.
Comments:
When I was injecting the BP paste into the string, I occasionally
noticed it 'squirming' out of the weave of the string. This tells you that you
are injecting the BP paste too fast. If you notice that this happens, slow
down your injection speed. Also, wrapping the external surface of the string
temporarily in masking tape seems to efficiently hold in the paste during
injection. This means that using a faster injection rate than would normally
be usedis possible.
The fuse I made using the above outline instructions burns a bit faster
than commercial Visco does. In the course of experimenting, I have found that
binder-fuelled fuse comps burn slower than do BP or other comps, whilst still
providing plenty of heat. Therefore, substituting a KNO3/Red gum composition
in (m)ethanol (acetone dissolves the syringes) for the BP paste stated above
would provide a slower burning, though just as reliable, fuse. Also, using
less sulphur and more charcoal in the BP used for the BP paste will slow the
burn rate. But, as the old adage goes, "to each, his own."
12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Black Match is the most used type of Fuse in pyrotechnics. This fuse can be
made even by a novice pyrotechnic enthusiast. As I have learned to make good
black match it requires a lot of practice to create a good Black Match fuse.
Ingredients:
-FFFFg Black Powder (Goex or Elephant Only)

-Cornstarch or Dextrin
-Cotton String (Non-waxed)
Tools Need:
Coffee
Hobby
Plastic Mixing Spoon
Paper
Latex or Plastic Gloves
can
or
Pan
Knife
Towels
Procedure:
Make sure to do this outside, you don't want this to ignite inside when
drying. It normally takes about a day to dry.
Mixing the ingredients:

In your coffee pot or whatever you are using to mix the ingredients mix,
1/4 teaspoon of dextrin, 3 tablespoons of FFFFg Black Powder, and 30ml of hot
water. You want to make sure that you mix the ingredients very well. The
consistency should be that of oatmeal.
Improvement: (This step is not necessary but will greatly improve upon the
reliability of the fuse.)
With only one string the fuse will still work however, what if you added
more strings to the fuse. There are multiple ways to do this.
1. Have 2 coffee can with the mixture in it and a string in each, after the
string is dipped in the black powder solution twist the string together. When
the strings dry they will be stuck to each other.
2. The other way to improve the string is to braid 3 pieces to string

together. This will create area for the black powder to stick to the string.
Add the String:

To prevent the Black Powder Mix from getting under your skin I recommend
putting on some either plastic or latex gloves. With how sensitive things are
now, you don't want to get question repeatedly why you have Black Powder on
you hands. I find it easy to soak some string in the mixture you want to rub
in the paste to make sure that the Black powder really gets absorbed.
Letting the String Dry:

Lay it out on a piece of sheet metal, lean, plexiglass, or other nonabsorbent material (definitely not wood) to dry. Your fuse will stick to the
board and when you pull off the string some of the powder will be left on the
board and this will ruin your fuse. Keep on soaking the string in the mixture
until there is no more left in the container. This should create about 40 feet
of black match. Let this dry outside for at least a day. After the string has
dried wind it up on something and try not to handle much, bits of Black Powder
will flake off and the fuse won't work as well.
12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE:

Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on
the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the
bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black
powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the
filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE:

Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to
the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and
then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
about inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size
wire to use.
Cut a by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a
small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. Place the
wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder.
Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else
except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires
are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
A single flashlight battery will set this off.
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse:

Quick Match is a slightly modified piece of Black Match that has been enclosed
by a 1/4" paper tube. This helps force the smoke and sparks forward when the
Black Match is lit inside. This is great for setting off Multiple fireworks
within a short amount of time. This is what professional pyrotechnicians use.
Items you need:

Ingredients:
-Black Match from previous
-Kraft Paper
Tools Need:
-Cool Glue gun
-Glue Sticks
-Hobby Knife or Scissors
-5/16 wooden dowel at least 24"
Before you begin this project you should all ready of made some Black Match.
Procedure:
(This you can work on inside.)

Making the pipes:
You want to create enough pipes to cover all of your string. Cut the Kraft
paper into 1 1/2" strips going from one side of the roll to the other. After
you get a couple of strips cut, you want to take the wooden dowel and bend all
of the strips around the dowel this will help make the paper easier to hold
and glue. Now only take one of the strips and completely bend it around the
dowel. Take the cool glue gun and put a small stream of glue along where the
end will overlap the Kraft paper. You want to do this the entire length of
the pipe to make sure that no gases can escape from it. After you make of few
of these move on to the next step.
Connecting the Pipes:
You are going to take the Black Match that you created and use it to thread
the Kraft tubes that you created onto the fuse. To connect the pipes you are
going to put a 1" slit in the end of one of the pipes that you want to
connect. Put a bead of glue around that end an push it into the other tube.
Use the glue gun to smear glue around where the tubes are connected. You are
now done with that section of fuse.
12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter:

The Nichrome/Fuse igniter is easy to make from available materials, and has
the extra safety advantage of a short delay produced by the fuse. This is the
best igniter to use for smaller Black Powder type ( Estes or homemade) rocket
motors.
The materials needed for the Nichrome Wire/Fuse Igniter. A short length of
Visco Safety Fuse, about 1.5" of Nichrome wire, and some insulated wire. You
can use just about just about any type of insulated wire ( speaker wire, alarm
hook-up wire, etc... all available at Radio Shack or your local hardware store
). Stranded wire is generally easier to work with, and much more flexible than
solid wire. It's best to use wire no thinner than 20 gauge. If you plan on
running the wires a long distance like 20 or 50 feet for launching model
rockets, etc., then 16 gauge or 14 gauge wire would be better. The lower the
wire gauge number is, the thicker the wire... and the less power it will take
to fire the igniter.
If you need some Nichrome wire, it is sold in 10 foot rolls, and is available
at the Shells, Tubes & Fuse page.
Strip about 1" of insulation off the ends of each wire.
Using a sewing needle and a pliers, push the needle through the end of the
fuse to make a small hole.
Twist the Nichrome wire tightly around one of the wires and fold over so it is
secure.
Insert the other end of the Nichrome into the small hole in the fuse and
connect to the remaining wire by twisting and bending over as you did before.
Make sure the two ends of the wire are not touching each other, or the igniter
will not work.
Finally, fold a piece of tape over the connections so it protects them

and prevents them from touching each other. When power is applied to the
opposite ends of the wire, the small piece of Nichrome will heat up, glow red
hot, and ignite the fuse. Depending on how long your wires are, and how thick
the wire you used is... as little as 3 volts ( 2 flashlight batteries ) will
be sufficient to make the igniter work. Long lengths of wire may require as
much as 12 volts, and very long runs may require even more.
12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK:

Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a
garden supply for tying up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test
it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed
and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in
a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it
is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur
will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and
harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These
wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing
unpredictable burning times.
12.1-8 Connecting fuses together:
Connecting Visco to Visco

The image on the left side shows the placement of the fuses, and the image on
the right shows what it would look like after electrical tape (shown in gray
so it won't be confused with the black match) has been applied.
Overlap the two
fuses that are to be
connected by at at
least 1 inch, and
tape them tightly
together with
electrical tape.
Make sure the tape
covers the very ends
of both fuses.
Visco becomes very
hot and molten while
burning, and easily
ignites another fuse
that is touching
it. The electrical
tape also holds in
the heat, insuring
ignition.
Connecting Visco to Black Match
Overlap the two
fuses by about an
inch and a half,
then tape them in
the middle. DO NOT
tape them over the
entire overlap
section. Black
match doesn't burn
well (or at all)
when taped. This
just holds the black
match close enough
to the Visco so that
it can be lit.
Connecting Visco to Quick Match
Cut a little bit of
paper pipe off of
the quick match so
the black match
inside sticks out.
Insert a piece of
Visco at least 1
inch into the pipe.
Crunch the paper
down around the
Visco and black
match, and cover it
in electrical tape.
When the burning end
of the Visco enters
the pipe, it will
immediately ignite
the black match and
send fire racing own
the tube.
Connecting Black Match to Visco

This type of
connection is kind
of tricky due to how
difficult Visco is
to ignite. First
off, cut the Visco
at an angle to
expose more of the
powder core inside.
Bend the black match
back on itself about
an inch, making sure
it touches the
powder core in the
Visco. Tape it, but
not too tightly.
Connecting Black Match to Black Match
Overlap the two
fuses by at least an
inch and a half.
Then just tape the
two together like
you would two pieces
of Visco, but don't
do it quite as
tightly, and don't
tape over the ends
of each fuse. Black
match doesn't really
like to burn while
wrapped completely
in tape, so this
allows a little
extra room for it to
burn to be sure the
fire transfer takes
place within the
tape.
Connecting Black Match to Quick Match
Pretty much the same

as connecting Visco
to quick match.
Stick the black
match about 1 inch
into the quick match
paper pipe, then
crunch down the
paper around the
fuses and tape it.
Don't tape it very
tightly, just enough
to make it stay in.
If there's too much
pressure, the black
match may just
fizzle out once it
gets to the taped
point.
Connecting Quick Match to Visco
Basically the same

thing as connecting
visco to quick
match, only
reverse. In fact, I
just used the same
picture, but flipped
it in order to look
like I drew a whole
new one! The only
difference is that
you should make a
small vent hole at
the end to prevent
the hot gases from
just blasting the
visco out of the end
like a projectile
without igniting it.
Connecting Quick Match to Black Match
Once again, just the

same as connecting
black match to quick
match. Once again,
don't tape it too
tightly or it will
choke off the flame
and extiguish it.
Connecting Quick Match to Quick Match
Strip about 1/2"-1"

of paper off of
either end of the
pieces of
quickmatch. Crease
down one side so
that you're able to
slide it into the
other pipe (as shown
at right), and
attach with tape or
a small amount of
glue.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Visco

Cut a angled slit in
the fuse to expose
the core. Overlap
the lead wires of
the ignitor over the
fuse, then bend it
back around so that
the match
composition touches
the powder core of
the fuse. Tape this
tightly, so that the
hot gases produced
by the ematch are
trapped inside and
ignite the visco.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Black Match
Same as above, but

try to wrap the end
of the black match
around the ematch
head to insure
ignition, then tape
as shown. A much
more reliable method
would be to connect
the ematch to a
short length of
quick match, then
connect the quick
match to the bare
black match.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Quick Match
Cut about an inch of

the paper pipe off
of the quickmatch,
and bend the exposed
fuse back on itself
and push it inside.
Stick the ematch in
at least and inch,
and tape the end
tightly. It's
nearly impossible
for this type of
connection to fail.
12.2 IMPACT IGNITION:

Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous war
activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be
kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter:

One of the best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses
factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black powder firearms is
one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $20. To
use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder
nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask
for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that
goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put
the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
|
|
_
|
|
| |
|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
____| |^^^^^^^^^|
|
__________|
|
|
No. 11
|_______|
percussion
_______
cap
|
|
here |
|__________
|____
|
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_|
|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
|
|
|________________|
------- Threads for screwing

nipple onto bomb
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a
small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR:
A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the
common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover
off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small
metal rod holding it in place.
CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry
gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.
Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be
effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs
in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can
be easily peeled away.
The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based
smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste.
Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal
rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely
covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the
remainder then ignition should be very reliable.
To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be
attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the
appropriate end will hit the ground first.
12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION:

Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device will explode, within fractions of a second.
Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person
suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by
at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model
rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model
rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack.
All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current
through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit
better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas
rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate
KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in
most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the
job.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION:

Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
12.3-2 Mercury Switches:
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts
electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A /
\
B
_____wire +______/_________
\
\
( Hg
)|
/
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch
the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does
not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type
of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a
swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of the door would knock the
switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
the switch into the vertical position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or
squib in an explosive device.
12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators:
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator
to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles
away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the
same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that
they are rather costly.
However, there could possibly be a reason that a
terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls
the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of
the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect
the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
12.4 Detonators and Boosters:
Detonators (also called blasting caps) contain small amounts of primary

high explosive used to detonate a less sensitive secondary explosive. Here are
a few defintions useful to the beginner from www.wmd-nm.org/:
Term: Primer Explosive

Catagory: Conventional Explosives
Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as the first step
(detonation) in an explosive chain. PRIMARY explosives are initiated by shock,
impact, heat, or heat-producing friction. Common examples include lead azide,
lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate used in blasting caps.
Term: Secondary Explosive
Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as a booster and/or
main charge after the first step in an explosive chain. Secondary explosives
are relatively insensitive to shock, friction, flame, or heat compared to
PRIMARY explosives. They may be initiated or detonated by a strong explosive
wave. Common examples include (1) boosters: pentolite, TNT, RDX, PENT,
tetrytol, and tetryl; (2) main charges: dynamites and ammonium nitrate; and
(3) blasting agents: nitro-carbo-nitrate.
Term: Blasting cap
Definition: A device used to initiate an explosive train. Commonly referred to
as detoners, they contain PRIMARY explosives. May be either electrically or
nonelectrically fired. Blasting caps are extremely sensitive and will explode
unless handled carefully.
Term: Booster
Definition: High explosive boosters, also called primer explosives, or simply
primers, are explosives that provide the detonation link in the explosive
train between the very sensitive PRIMARY explosives and the comparatively
insensitive main charge high explosives. It amplifies the detonation wave of
the primary explosive.
The design of a basic detonator is very simple. It is just a container,

usually a cylinder, filled with a primary explosive and having either a fuse
or electrical ignition. You could use just about anything for the container, I
like to use a section of a plastic pen. Commercial detonators are metal, which
works well, but be aware of explosives that can react with metal, especially
HMTD. For the pen design, I stuck a fuse in one end and glued it in place.
Next, the primary is added and the other end is plugged. With sensitive
explosives you must be very careful filling, pressing, and sealing.
Pressing your primary will improve the VOD and make it better at
detonating the main charge. It is also however, one of the most dangerous
parts of dealing with high explosives. Ideally you would have some kind of
mechanical means to press caps where you are not near it and do not perform
the pressing directly, but with something like a lever that will push down
(slowly, gently, and smoothly) a rod slightly smaller in diameter than the
inside of the cap. This is all done behind a shield so you will be safe from
and accidental detonation.
Boosters are very simple as well. Commercially they are generally PETN
or PETN based, and most often used to set off ANFO, which is too insensitive
to detonate with just a blasting cap. Any HE can be used for a booster that
will detonate from a cap: TNP, HDN, etc. You could even use primary like an AP
cap with and AN/AP booster to detonate ANFO. Keep in mind of course that this
will be more dangerous than a "normal" booster as the purpose of a booster is
to minimize the use of sensitive primary explosives. You can make a booster
simply by putting your explosive in a suitable container and either making a
hole in it to insert the detonator or simply attaching the detonator to the
side of the booster by taping it. This is then placed in the main charge to
detonate it.
Warning! NEVER keep a detonator in a charge until use. If the detonator
accidentally goes off on its own damage will hopefully be minimal, but if it
goes off while in the main charge your problems will be a lot bigger.
(Pen detonators:)
(Diagram of a commercial detonator: )
(Commercial booster:)
12.5 Firing systems:
*This is how the military does it
HOW TO PREPARE FIRING SYSTEMS

Information on the preparation and placement of demolition charges is in FM 525 and in GTA 5-10-27. This appendix covers the preparation of firing systems
that are basic to all demolition work. There are two types of firing systems
-- NONELECTRIC SYSTEM and ELECTRIC SYSTEM.
NONELECTRIC SYSTEM
To prepare a nonelectric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. Clear the cap well of a block of TNT or push a hole about the
size of a blasting cap (3 cm [1 1/3 in] deep and .65 cm [1/4 in] in
diameter) in a block of C4 explosive.
STEP 2. To help prevent a misfire, cut and discard 15-cm (6-in) length
of fuse from the free end of the time blasting fuse. That part of the
fuse may have absorbed some moisture from the air through the exposed
powder in the end of the fuse.
STEP 3. Determine what length of fuse is needed. To do this, first

compute the burning time of a 91.4-cm (3-ft) section of fuse. Divide
this burning time by 3 to find the burning time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of
fuse. Next, determine the time it takes to reach a safe distance from
the explosion. Now divide the time required to reach that distance by
the burn time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of fuse. This will give the number of
centimeters (ft) of fuse needed.
STEP 4. Inspect the nonelectric blasting cap to make sure it is clear of

foreign matter.
STEP 5. Gently slip the blasting cap over the fuse so that the flash
charge in the cap is in contact with the end of the time fuse. DO NOT
FORCE THE FUSE INTO THE CAP.
STEP 6. After seating the cap, crimp it 3.2 mm (1/8 in) from the open
end of the cap. Hold it out and away from your body when crimping.
STEP 7. When using TNT, insert the blasting cap into the cap well. When
using C4, place the cap into the hole made in the C4 and mold the C4
around the cap. DO NOT FORCE THE CAP INTO-THE HOLE.
STEP 8. Insert the free end of the fuse into an M60 fuse igniter and
secure it in place by screwing on the fuse holder cap.
STEP 9. To fire the fuse igniter, remove the safety pin, hold the barrel
in one hand. Take up the slack, before making the final strong pull. If
the fuse igniter misfires, reset it by pushing the plunger all the way
in. Then try to fire it as before. If it still misfires, replace it.
STEP 10. If a fuse igniter is not available, split the end of the fuse
and place the head of an unlighted match in the split. Make sure the
match head is touching the powder train.
STEP 11. Then light the inserted match head with a burning match or
strike the inserted match head on a matchbox.
If the fuse burns but the explosive charge does not go off, there is a
misfire. Wait 30 minutes before trying to clear it. If the misfire charge was
not tamped (nothing packed around it), lay another charge of at least one
block of C4 or TNT beside it. If it was tamped, place at the least two blocks
of C4 or TNT beside it. Do not move the misfire charge. The detonation of the
new charge should detonate the misfire charge.
ELECTRIC SYSTEM
To prepare an electric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. After finding a safe firing position and a place for the charge,
lay out the firing wire from the charge position to the firing position.
Before leaving the charge position, anchor the firing wire to something.
Always keep the firing device with you. Do not leave it at the firing
position.
STEP 2. Check the firing wire with the galvanometers or circuit taster
to make sure it does not have a short circuit or a break. This is best
done with one man at each end of the firing wire.
o
To check for a short, separate the two strands (the bare ends) of
the firing wire at the firing position. Have the other soldier do
the same thing with the other end of the wire at the charge
position. At the firing position, touch the bare ends of the two
strands to the galvanometer/circuit tester posts. The needle on
the galvanometers should not move, nor should the light on the
circuit tester come on. If the needle does not move or if the
light does not come on, the wire has a break--replace it.
If the wire has no short when tested, test it for a break. Have
the soldier at the charge position twist the bare ends of the
strands together. Then touch the two strands at the firing
position to the galvanometers/circuit tester posts. That should
cause a wide deflection of the galvanometer needle or cause the
circuit tester light to come on. If the galvanometers needle does
not move or if the light does not come on, the wire has a break-replace it.
STEP 3. At the firing position, check the blasting cap with a

galvanometers or circuit tester to make sure it does not have a short.
Remove the short circuit shunt and touch one cap lead wire using the
galvanometers, the needle should make a wide deflection. If it does, the
cap is good.
o
If the needle fails to move or only makes a slight deflection,

replace the cap.
When using the circuit tester, the light should come on when the
handle is squeezed. If it does not replace the cap.
STEP 4. Move to the charge position and, if the charge is a block of

TNT, clear its cap well if the charge is a block of C4 plastic
explosive, push a hole in it about the size of a blasting cap.
STEP 5. Position the charge. Then splice the lead wires of the cap to
the, firing wire (pigtail knot).
STEP 6. Insert the cap into the cap well of the TNT and secure it with
the priming adapter, or insert the cap into the hole made in the C4 and
mold the explosive around the cap.
STEP 7. Move back to the firing position and check the wire circuit with
the galvanometers or circuit tester (same technique as described
earlier).
If the circuit checked out and the blasting machine does not set off the
charge, there is a misfire.
If an untamped charge misfires, investigate at once. If the charge is tamped,
wait 30 minutes before investigating, then take these steps:
STEP 1. Check the firing wire connection to the blasting machine to be

sure that the contacts are good.
STEP 2. Make two or three more attempts to fire the charge.
STEP 3. Try to fire it again using another blasting machine.
STEP 4. Disconnect the firing wire from the blasting machine and shunt
(twist together) the ends of the wire.
STEP 5. Move to the charge position to investigate. Take the blasting

machine with you.
STEP 6. Check the entire circuit, including the firing wire, for breaks
and short circuits.
STEP 7. Make no attempt to remove the primer or the charge.
STEP 8. If the fault has not been found, place a new primed charge
beside the misfire charge.
STEP 9. Disconnect the old blasting cap wires from the firing wire and
shunt the ends of the blasting cap wires.
STEP 10. Attach the new blasting cap wires to the firing wire and fire
the new charge. This should also detonate the misfire charge.
12.6 DELAYS:
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.
12.6-1 Cigarette Delays:
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine
rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less
likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or
draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the
cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of
delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance
to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes
burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all
the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
cigarette ------------
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS:

Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can
usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be
work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch
would not have to be stepped up.
12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS:

Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England.
The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the
initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British
citizenry.
If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and
capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with
aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the
container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the
hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
_
_
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |_____________| |
| |
| |
| | sulfuric
| |
| |
| |
| | acid
| |
| |
| |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| |
(several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats
through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the
foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be
able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
acid.
Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips
down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate
will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the
potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some
potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this
mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permanganate in a similar way.
13.0 Projectiles:
13.1 Polish cannon:

Part 1: The Polish Cannon Concept
The polish cannon was invented for all of you who would love to have a
gun-type weopon or just something fun that shoots things. With about $1.50
worth of lighter fluid and materials around the home, you can make your very
own cannon.
Part 2: Building the Cannon

Materials:
1: 2 or 3 empty Cambells Chunky Soup cans with BOTH ends cut out (or a can of
the same exact size)
2: An empty coke can (or similar aluminum can)
3: Duct Tape
4: Tennis Balls
5: a Can Opener (like the ones used to open Hawaiian Punch or Hi-C cans)
Ok. Take your empty soup cans and make sure both ends are cut out of all of
them. 3 cans is best but 2 will do. To make sure you have the right size
cans, put a tennis ball in one and make sure it fits snugly but not too tight.
Place the cans end to end and tape them together making sure the ends of the
cans are exactly aligned. After taping, slide the tennis ball through to make
sure there are no spots where it gets caught.
Now take the empty coke can in your hand. Do not cut the top out of this.
Instead, take the can opener and make 3 holes. There should now be the
drinking hole and the 3 additional holes you made. Fit the front end of the
can into one end of the soup can tube. The top of the can should fit inside.
Now tape this on. Make a hole in the side of the coke can. Make the hole
about half the size of a penny (not too small though).
You have now made your cannon.
Part 3: Firing the cannon
Set the cannon up with the open soup-can end pointed out in to a field or at
the target. Then put a tennis ball in the end and push it all the way down.
It should stop at the coke can top. Now take your lighter fluid and sqirt
about 1/8 inch of liquid in to the coke can through the hole you made. Place
your thumb over the hole and shake the fluid. This will make a flammable gas.
After a good shaking, quickly move your thumb away and light the hole with a
lighter or match. Whoosh! The ball should launch.
Part 4: Problems and warnings
About 30% of my cannon shots fail. Here are some reasons:
1: not enough shaking
2: too little OR too MUCH lighter fluid
3: hole in side of can is too big
4: tennis ball is too tight
5: gas never lit because of a small hole
Warnings:
1: do not hold the cannon when firing (duh....) it has a lot of kick
2: be careful when lighting. On most failed attempts, instead of the
of heat and flames shooting the ball, it shoots out the firing hole.
3: Make sure the cannon is supported well in the back when firing.
rush
13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON:

A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only
difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick
to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.
If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can
be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a
pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.
A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.
Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade
blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of
tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person
is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by
pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
_________ _____________________________________________________
| |_______||_____________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| _____|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of
the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will
explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would
look like this:
___
/
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ------crater maker
|
|
/
| | | | ------tape
|_|_|
|
| --------fuse
13.3 Rocket launcher:

A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only
difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further
than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial
inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one
that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal
rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
__
/
\
|
|
| C
|
|M
|
|
|
|
|
\ _ /|
| |
|
| E
|
| N
|
| G
|
| I
|
| N
|
| E
|
|____ |
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be
ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before
the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.
Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon
will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.
13.4 potato guns:
CAUTION:
Potato guns can BLOW UP! If they blow up near you, it is VERY bad! Do
not use a potato gun that is damaged or weak. PVC pipe can only take so much
stress. Using too much fuel can cause the expansion chamber to BLOW UP. Use
your head. Dont be stupid. DONT shoot people or animals, because if you
dowhatever you shoot will probley die! BE CAREFUL!!!
Basic Potato Gun:

Introduction
All combustion potato guns are based on this design. I have began to
experiment with combustions guns.
I like combustion guns because they are easily to transport and they make a
loud bang (like a cannon) when they are fired.
Materials:
* 1 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch diameter schedule
40 PVC pipe
* 1 10 foot piece of 3 inch diameter schedule 40
PVC
* 1 3 inch threaded female coupling (also called a
cleanout trap)
* 1 3
inch
threaded
end cap
(also
called a
cleanout
cap)
* 1 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing
bushing
* 1 BBQ igniter.
* 1 PVC primer can.
* 1 PVC glue can.
If you dont already own a hacksaw or a drill you need to purchase each one to
make a potato gun.
Directions:
1. Cut a 13 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 3 inch in diameter pipe (This
piece will become the combustion chamber). Sit the rest of the 10 foot piece
aside.
2. Grab the 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing brushing and glue it to one side of
the 13 inch
pipe.
3. Glue the 3 inch threaded (only on one side) coupling to the other side of
the 13 inch pipe.
4. Cut a 36 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe (This piece
will be used as the barrel). Sit the rest of the pipe aside.
5. Glue the 36 inch piece to the other side of the reducing brushing. You
should now have a completed gun, except you need to mount the sparker.
6. Drill a hole in the end cap that is the correct size for the sparker. Put
some glue around the hole and on the inner edges. Shove the sparker in the
hole till the little plastic things click. Put some more glue around the
edges of the sparker to make it air tight.
7. Wait overnight until the glue has dried! Remember safety!
8. Make a ramrod from an old broom stick. Put the stick in the barrel and
stop when it get close to the bottom, then mark a line at the top of the
stick. So now when you load a potato in there, you know when to stop.
Shooting:
1. Put the potato in the end of the barrel
2. Unscrew the end cap and spray some Right Guard deodorant (or any other
fuel) down
the chamber for about 2 seconds.
3. Quickly screw on the end cap.
4. Shove the potato all the way to the end of the barrel
5. Brace yourself for the kick of the gun.
6. Then quickly push the igniter.
7. It should go boom!
Fuels to use:
Fuel Type:
Description
Rating * - ****
Hairspray
The most basic and commonly used fuel

for potato guns (although hair spray
doesnt work very well...). Just open
the chamber, spray for a few seconds,
screw on the cap, and hit the
igniter.
* *
Carburetor Cleaner
Burns fast, which is very good. Works

just like hairspray. Just open,
spray, close, and ignite. Leaves a
terrible stench, though.
* * * *
Propane
Good fuel! It's just hard to get the
* * *
right amount. The best mixture is 5%

to air. Also propane is heavier than
air.
Alcohol
Denatured alcohol appears to work

well as a propellant. Use a regular
hair spray bottle. There must be a
fine mist in order to ignite it. A
liquid will not cooperate.
* * *
Butane
Butane is a little less common, and

appears to be more powerful than
propane. I've seen it in the sporting
good section. Difficult to get "just
the right amount." You can easily put
in too much, or too little, and end
up not being able to ignite it.
* * *
Aqua Net plus a

little something
extra!
Take Aqua Net hairspray and spray it

into the chamber. Then drop some
rubbing alcohol into the chamber.
Then roll the chamber around 5 for 6
times. Lastly shoot.
* * *
Aerosol Right Guard
Works better than hairspray, WD-40

and Carburetor Cleaner. Just costs a
few dollars a can. Leave a nice
smell. The best feature of this fuel
is it doesn't leave any residue in
your gun.
* * * *
Different kinds ammo:
Ammo
Description
Rating * ****
Potatoes
Just cut a thick slice of a potato and

push it against the barrel, it will cut
it perfectly. Also makes a nice wadding
for shooting other things!
* * *
Smoke Bombs
Put the smoke bomb in the back of a

potato. Take the fuse and put gasoline on
it. Then push the potato down into the
gun. It a good idea to shorten the fuse
so the smoke starts quick.
* * *
Model Rocket
Engines
Take the fuse and soak it in gasoline. If

you can get it to work this has to be the
coolest thing your can shoot out of a
potato gun.
* * * *
Glow Sticks
Looks like military tracer rounds! Try

cutting off the end and shooting. Gently
drop them in the barrel after your potato
with the cut end off. Fire it at night
and watch the glowing cloud!
* * *
Spudrok's
A Spudrok's is a plastic kinetic rocket

usually shot out of a potato gun or
similar device using a reusable Plastic
Pressure Piston (wad). It's designed to
have a "glow stick" attached to the nose
and is best shot at night. Both the
Spudrok's and the WAD are reusable and
will last many repeated uses. For more
info check out Spudrok's Homepage.
* * * *
Water
Put in a spud and pour some water down

the barrel. Makes a huge cloud of water
Tips from other people:
Have you ever seen those laser pointers? They shoot a red laser beam
across rooms up to 300 yards. Well, I happen to have one, so after I built my
potato cannon I took the laser pointer and taped it to the barrel. Now I have
a laser sight to aim with! Of course, it isn't always accurate (on my cannon
the potato usually hits within a foot of the laser from 40 feet away. It might
be more accurate if I had steadier hands, but I don't), but it is fun.
One important thing to consider when you're making your potato cannon is
the barrel length. When I made my first cannon, it's barrel was 5' long (the
gun was 2"x4"). When I shot the gun, the potato kinda fell out of the end and
rolled 10 feet. I was in shock! I'd seen these things shoot over 200 yards
before! So I decided cut off some of the barrel, thinking I could at least
shoot it a few more feet. So, after cutting the barrel down to 3 feet, I gave
it another shot. The potato rocketed out of the barrel and exploded on my
backyard fence. I took it out to a big grass field and it shot about 200
yards. Compared to 10 feet of earlier! So if your potato cannon isn't
performing as well as you think it should, try cutting off some of the barrel.
It worked for me.
After a couple of weeks of working with hairspray I have decided that it
sucks. I'm going back to butane or carb fluid. Hairspray is really annoying
for a couple reasons: it gets the cannon really sticky, it's not as powerful,
and when using it there are a lot more misfires where the potato goes about 20
feet. This is because the hairspray either floods the ignitor or because not
enough gets in the chamber. What I did to fix this is run a plastic tube from
the propellent (hairspray, butane, etc) nozzle to the end of the cannon. I put
a valve on the end so that I can open the valve, spray the hairspray, close
the valve, and fire. It works well and is much easier than having to unscrew
the cap.
When I made my first potato gun it only went around 20 yards. Trying
over and over I found out that if you put the potato in at the top, put the
propelent in, then push the potato down with a broom. It compreses and adds
more air in with the propelent ,and it gives more of an blast. Instead of 20
yards it flew over 200 yards.
I have your basic spudgun but have found that there is an optimum barrel
length that differs per barrel size, projectile, and fuel used. Since the
potato is being forced out by the gases and pressure of the explosion in the
chamber, these gases must overcome a certain amount of friction against the
potato as its forced out the barrel. The optimum length barrel would
theoretically be one that utilizes all the enegy from the blast. Meaning that
there is a certain point when the energy is not enough to continue
acceleration through the entire barrel and the potato (or projectile) starts
to slow down. So you fellow spud blasters may want to experiment with this to
maximize the power of your spudzookas also.
Here is how to make to sparks in your firing chamber: Connect the ground
wire to one screw as usual, but connect two screws to the hot wire. This will
give you two sparks [see illustration 1].--
Other ammo that people have used:
Here is a list of projectile that I have tried or that visitors have proposed:
Spuds (of course). Basically, the spud is the ultimate projectile

because it is heavy and full of water which makes them slide better in
the barrel.
Cylindrical form ice cubes. It is hard (even impossible) to get

perfectly hermetic ice cylinders but an "almost hermetic" ice cube will
fly well because of it's weight and shape. I think it must REALLY hurt
if you where to be hit.
Wet toilet paper. This will not fly as well as spuds but can be used for
desperate shooters who don't have any potatoes.
Water. This is fun (and refreshing) when shot in the air. Shooting water
will cause an impressive back shot for some reason.
Limes. These are pretty good because they are aerodynamic and heavy
enough to go very far.
Use apples, melons and a large fry from McDonalds be sure to leave it in
the carton. Proposed by Nutlyman@aol.com
Try shooting corn on the cobb! It's impressive. Proposed by Element778@webtv.net
Use a walnut with the hull ,we shot 1 at least 950 to 1000 yds with a
little bit of aquanet these are exelent. Proposed by Jester3306@aol.com
Walnuts,golf balls,lit m-80s,tennis balls. Proposed by BowHuntjs@aol.com
Tape the end of a 12 gram CO2 carterage so that it fits good. stand far
away from target. (let the target be hard) it will blow up! make sure
you hide behind something. I knocked down a 100ft tree with it using a
gas potato gun . Proposed by Ragema6169@aol.com
Use a 2' 1/2" piece of wood dowel with a backer or wadding to fit your
barrel. With my pnumatic spud gun i put one through a 3/4" thick sheet
of plywood at 50 feet and it keept going. Proposed by
DucatiMan2001@aol.com
A great form of ammo is first a potato, then just trash and anything you
can find, it blows it everywhere, also, an arrow through your spud, then
it will stick into stuff and you can hunt with it! Proposed by
Dugasuttle@aol.com
Use eggs because, they are aerodynamic, have weight, and make a large
messe. Proposed by Sean23164@aol.com
Try puting some snow in after the potato.looks really cool. Proposed by
KDDGOW@aol.com
I have found that instant mashed pototoes work very well just mix them
thick and they are fun for the whole family add some food coloring and
you can make some new wave art on a bed sheet. Proposed by
mctsgw@ruralink.com
Try eggs soaked in vinegar, they will swell up, and fit the barrel very
snugly, and will stink up whatever you are shooting at! Proposed by
cloudracer1@cs.com
Try using water ballon full of paint put some oil on it and a rag be
hind it. It makes a big mess. From taz5696969@yahoo.com
Try using kiwis. Proposed by badcriner@aol.com
Shove a cloth down the barrel and then a lit smoke bomb. Proposed by
karma_81503@yahoo.com
Use pomegranates because when they hit a wall they stain. Proposed by
jdb999911@aol.com
I like to stick a bottle of shaving creme in the barrel (only use air
power). It explodes and makes a big mess! Proposed by Dmbowler1@aol.com
A bottle of mustard works good because when it hits it blows up and

makes a total mess !!!!!!!!!! Proposed by Ghett0Zach@aol.com
In a 2" barrel use a miniture vortex football. It is accurate and flies

really good!!! Proposed by JRH48080@aol.com
Get as many two piece plasitc easter eggs as possible. Open them and
fill both halfs with paint. Put some paper or plastic bags behind as a
wad to push it out. It will go like heck and puts a mark on the target
the size of a watermelon. by c. williams
A good idea is to cut a bit off the end of your barel. You can use this
to shape stuff, save getting your gun dirty etc. Also use it to freeze
ice. Kicks ass. Proposed by r.a.t.m@www.com
If you put a thin slice of spud in the gun and follow it with about 2-3
cups of flour with a paper towel wadding, it makes cool special effects.
(Try shooting it into fire). Proposed by ralverso@knox.net
Make a wad to shove down the barrel, then drop a lot of paintballs down
the barrel. Proposed by rwilson@freewwweb.com
Try glow-sticks, they look like tracer bullets.you can also retrieve
them. Proposed by japarker@gibralter.net
What I found was a good projectile was a Noni plant. It is a green fruit
that looks sorta like a potato. On impact, it makes a huge mess and
smells worse than rotten eggs soaked in vinegar. Unfortunatly, I think

you can only get this fruit in Hawaii. Proposed by Voice@hawaii.rr.com
The small plastic "sunny delight" bottles (full or course) fit perfectly
into the 2"barrel. Proposed by Lawenforcer105@aol.com
I find using frozen butter to work really well in air powered guns. It
also leaves a nice mark on whatever it hits. It hits hard, and flies
straight. Proposed by tomb@teleport.com
Use a film cannester and fill full of paint. Close the lid and drop it
in the gun. Proposed by evalen@unidial.com
What I've found to work really good is them small cans of tomato paste.
You can also use cans of corn or stewed tomatoes or any other caned
vegetable that will fit in the barrel of your gun. Proposed by
Grizzle41285@aol.com
You can get hackie sacks at the dollar store and in a 2" barrel they fly
really good. Proposed by TUNAFISHsm@aol.com
I find that neon light bulbs work well (the long skinny kind they have
in schools) the explode with a loud boom on inpact. They fit nicely in a
1 inch pipe. Proposed by Gopedguy1115@aol.com
Stick sparklers in the end of a spud and watch them fly at night.
Proposed by Tjoeh2003@aol.com
Spudrok's rockets. Check out his web site for more details. It's worth
it!
Try using an onion, and make the end of your barrel like a knife so it
shaves it while it goes down, makes it air tight, which results in more
compression longer distance. Proposed by Pete
Take BBs, ball bearings, screws, nails, bolts, rocks, or any other
small hard things and push a bunch of them in the end of a potato before
loading it. The only thing is, that sharp metal things may do bad
things to the barrel.
13.5 MODEL ROCKETS:

Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.
They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,
expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used
constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no
recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military
rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes,
a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12
lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger
rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket
engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most
model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help
explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |c|
casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * *| . . . . .|l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject
|a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |y|
/________|____________________|________|_________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of
hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the
engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black
powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke,
usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the
rocket will be seen
when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it
ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is
finelypowdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.
The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model
rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds. The final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a 3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The
mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
13.6 Home-brew blast cannon:
Materials needed:
1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 inches in diameter.

1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter.
1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe.
5 feet of bellwire.
1 SPST rocker switch.
16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery.
15v relay (get this at Radio Shack).
Electrical Tape.
One free afternoon.
Procedure:
Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends.
Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small
pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw
together easily.
Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it
to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/-----!lighter!!<---metal lever!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the
lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you
wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch.
Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the
bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in
the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily,
and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the
smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go,
and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big
'THUD!'
Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

1--------------v/
2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the
relay
3
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4),
and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from
the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get
the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you
should see some tiny little sparks.
Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the
back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon
barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off
by flipping the switch.
Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now
ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits
'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on
your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly
some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on
tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be
able to put a frozen orange through a piece of plywood at 25 feet.
14.0 The End:

I would like to credit and thank the many web sites and sources of the
information in this application: Roguesci.org, Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology, Modern Pyrotechnics and all the other people and publications
that I did not mention; as many scientific, pyrotechnic, and other websites
were my sources. Go to some of the link in this text, or go to the extras
file in this folder, for more information on chemicals and explosives.
(top)
2003
All rights reserved (by me)

Unknown Author
P.O. Box 0000. Not Here, Earth
Your Info.
Unregistered Underground Distribution Ring
(000)-000-0001
undefined
The Pyro Handbook
Contents:
1.0 Intro
2.0 Safety
2.1-know what your handling
-incopatable materials
-chemical notes
-how to mix ingredients
-tools
3.0 Explosive theory
3.1 explosive classifications
4.0 Chemical equiv. lists
5.1-links
5.2-books
6.0 Chemical preparation and sources
6.1 Ammonium chloride
6.2 Ammonium nitrate
6.3 Ammonium perchlorate
6.4 Barium carbonate
6.5 Barium chlorate
6.6 Barium nitrate
6.7 Barium sulfate
6.8 Boric acid
6.9 Calcium sulphate
6.10 Dextrin
6.11 Ethanol
6.12 Iron
6.13 Iron oxide (red)
6.14 Lead tetraoxide
6.15 Manganese dioxide
6.16 Magnalium
6.17 Magnesium
6.18 Methanol
6.19 Parlon
6.20 Potassium benzoate
6.21 Potassium chlorate
6.22 Potassium dichromate
6.23 Potassium perchlorate
6.24 Potassium Picrate
6.25 Polyvinyl chloride
6.26 PICRIC ACID
6.27 Red gum
6.28 Sodium benzoate
6.29 Sodium chlorate
6.30 Sodium nitrate
6.31 Sodium perchlorate
6.32 Strontium carbonate
6.33 Strontium nitrate
6.34 Strontium sulfate
6.35 Sulfuric acid
6.36 Zinc
6.37 Zinc oxide
6.38 acetylene
6.39 calcium carbide
6.40 Perchlorates
6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate
6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate

6.40-3 barium perchlorate
6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate
6.40-5 calcium perchlorate
6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate
6.40-7 copper perchlorate
6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate
6.40-9 iron perchlorate
6.40-10 lead perchlorate
6.40-11 lithium perchlorate
6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate
6.40-13 manganese perchlorate
6.40-14 mercury perchlorate
6.40-16 nickel perchlorate
6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate
6.40-18 potassium perchlorate
6.40-19 silver perchlorate
6.40-20 sodium perchlorate
6.40-21 strontium perchlorate
6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate
6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate
6.40-24 zinc perchlorate
7.0 Low-order explosives
7.1 Acetone Peroxide
7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives)
7.3 FLASH POWDER
7.4 BLACK POWDER
7.5 yellow powder
7.6 NITROCELLULOSE
7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
7.8 PERCHLORATES
8.0 High-order explosives
8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives
8.2 Lead Azide
8.3 Lead Styphnate
8.4 Mercury Fulminate
8.5 Tetracene
8.6 AMATOL
8.7 PETN
8.8 RDX
8.9 COMPOSITION C-1
8.13 Ammonium Picrate
8.14 HMX
8.15 Nitrated Petroleum
8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride
8.17 Tetryl
8.18 Trinitrobenzene
8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT)
8.20 Silver Fulminate
8.21 ANFO
8.22 DNPA
8.23 Nitroguanidine
8.24 Astrolite
8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene
8.26 HMTD
8.27 HNIW
8.28 HNO
8.29 IPN
8.30 MEDINA
8.31 MMAN
8.32 NPN
8.33 PVN
8.34 TeNN
8.35 TNPEN
8.36 TNPht
8.37 Tetranitromethane
8.38 CH-6
8.40 COMPOSITION A-3
8.41 COMPOSITION B
8.42 PBXN-5
8.43 MEKP
8.44 Nitrourea
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene
9.0 Bombs
9.1 C02 bomb
9.2 Cherry Bomb
9.3 Dry Ice Bomb
9.4 Sparkler Bomb
9.5 Tennis ball bomb
9.6 Mail Box Bomb
9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb
9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb
9.9 Firebombs(Molotov cocktail)
9.10 Generic Bomb
9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute)
9.12 THERMITE BOMB
9.13 soda bottle bomb
10.0 Pyrotechnics
10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas
10.1-1 Smoke formulas
10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches
10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
10.1-4 Rocket propellants
10.1-5 colored star compositions
10.1-6 smoke star compositions
10.1-7 flash charges
10.1-8 burst charges
10.1-9 whistle mixtures
10.1-10 priming compositions
10.1-11 Other compositions
10.1-12 Sparkler compositions
10.2 FIRECRACKERS
10.2-1 salutes
10.2-2 Bum Style salute
10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs
10.2-4 Impact Salute
10.3 Rockets
10.3-1 Making Rockets
10.3-2 SKYROCKETS
10.4 ROMAN CANDLES
10.5 22 cal. noisemakers

10.6 Class C Aerial Salute
10.7 Go Getters
10.8 Yogart Mine
10.9 Mine Bag
10.10 Making Cut Stars
10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls
10.12 strobe pots
10.13 Aerial Shells
11.0 Fun with fire
11.1-0 Napalm
11.1-1 military napalm
11.1-2 Jolly Rodgers napalm
11.1-3 Napalm II
11.2 Flame throwers
11.3 thermite
11.4 breathing fire
11.5 fire balls
11.5-1 special effect fire balls
11.5-2 petrol fire ball
11.5-3 fire ball from hydrogen
11.5-4 fire ball from butane
11.5-5 fire ball from propane
11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges
11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS
11.6 Greek fire
11.7 Other Incendiaries
11.8 Negetive-X
11.9 how to make alcohol
11.10 Plaster Incendiary
11.11 Flash Paper
12.0 fuses, delays, and timers
12.1 FUSE IGNITION
12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse
12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE
12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE
12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse
12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter
12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
12.1-8 Connecting fuses together
12.2 IMPACT IGNITION
12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter
12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR
12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
12.3-2 Mercury Switches
12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators
12.4 Detonators and boosters
12.5 Firing systems
12.6 DELAYS
12.6-1 Cigarette Delays
12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS
12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS
13.0 Projectiles
13.1 Polish cannon
13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON
13.3 Rocket launcher

13.4 potato guns
13.5 MODEL ROCKETS
13.6 Home-brew blast cannon
14.0 The End.
1.0 Intro
It is assumed by the author that you would not actually use this
information as a guide for new activities. If you dont know what you are
doing, you could make a mistake and DIE. Some of the procedures are general
ways of making a specific devise or chemical composition, and lack the exact
details that inexperienced people need to safely make a desired material.
Also, there may be one or two references to terrorists and procedures
that they may use in a few sections; I HATE terrorists, and do not in any way
promote terrorism! (I just didnt feel like to go through the entire book and
delete every sentence containing the word terrorist.)
If you are wanting to carry out a death wish, and are going to attempt
some of these procedures, then READ THE SAFETY SECTION FIRST(if you want a
better chance of living)! Dont be a dumb-ass, and do it near people or
houses, and hurt someone and/or yourself! Dont be a Kewl.
-The Author
2.0 SAFETY--HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (READ THIS!)

It is obvious that injury or death should be avoided at all costs. While no
safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of
caution.
14 Never smoke anywhere near
chemicals or compositions.
15 Be sure you are familiar with all the properties of the compositions you
work with. Thoroughly test new compositions for sensitivity, stability,
compatibility with other mixtures etc, until you are absolutely sure
that the mixture is ok to use in your application and method of
construction. Find out as much as you can about other peoples
experiences with a particular mixture.
16 Use only non-sparking tools. Make your tools from either: wood, paper,
aluminum, lead or brass. Other metals and materials may spark
(especially steel).
17 Paper bags or wooden containers are good to use for storing mixed
compositions. Store compositions dry and cool. Avoid plastics, glass and
metal. Avoid storing compositions in general. Make as much as you will

need in the near future and keep no more in stock than necessary.
18 Never have large amounts of composition near you. If you must use larger
amounts of composition in multiple items, store the bulk of composition
in a safe place and bring only small amounts to your working place.
Finished items should also be brought to a safe place immediately.
19 Prevent contamination of chemicals and mixtures. Have separate tools for
every type of mixture (i.e. black powder-like mixtures, chlorates,
perchlorates, etc) and clean them well with hot water and/or alcohol
after use. It is no luxury either to have different sets of clothing for
working with different mixtures. Wash them every time after use (dust
collects in the clothing). If you have the possibility, have separate
rooms or better yet: separate buildings for working with different types
of mixtures/chemicals.
20 Keep a clean working place. Fine dust easily spreads all over your
working place. Keep chemicals in closed cabinets or in a separate
building. Mixtures should not be kept in the working place anyway (see
rules 4 and 5).
21 Provide adequate ventilation. This is especially important when working
with volatile solvents or (poisonous, flammable) powdered chemicals. Not
only can you get yourself poisoned, vapor or dust may also ignite.
22 Be aware of static electricity buildup. Ground your working table.
Monitor humidity and keep it above 60% as a rule of thumb. This can be
especially important in winter when preparing for new years eve (on the
Northern Hemisphere at least). Touch a grounded surface before you place
things on it. Touch other people before handing over compositions or
finished items. Wear cotton clothing, avoid synthetics (do not be
tempted to wear fleece clothing if your working place is cold in
winter). Simple things such as unscrewing a (plastic) bottle, unwinding
some tape or even moving your arm may accumulate enough charge on your
body to ignite a sensitive composition. The risk of static electricity
is often underestimated or even completely ignored by beginning amateurs
in pyro, while it is actually one of the major causes of accidents in
both commercial/industrial and amateur pyro setups.
23 Wear proper protective clothing. A face shield, dust mask, heavy gloves
and a leather apron are minimal. Wear cotton clothing. Hearing
protection can be good but it also makes it harder to hear other
people's warnings.
24 Provide safety screens between you and compositions, especially when
pressing, ramming, sieving or in other ways causing
frictions/shocks/pressure etc.
25 Be prepared for the worst. Have a plan for when something should go
wrong. Have a fire extinguisher and plenty of water ready. Think
beforehand of what might happen and how you could minimize the damage.
Know how to treat burns. Inform someone else so he/she can help in case
of an accident. Have a fast escape route from your working place.
26 Test a device well before showing it to an audience. Inform any audience

well of what can happen.
2.1-Know What You're Handling:

[This is a publication of the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association. It
may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission or compensation
providing:]
[Editors note: I have received several letters offering comments and/or
corrections on this document. Since I am not the author of the document, and
do not have the expertise to judge these comments, I have put them as
received on another page]
3
1) credit is given to the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association
2) it is distributed free. If you plan to make a buck on it, we want a

piece of it!!
We believe that the information contained herein is true and correct,

however it is offered only as a guide and not to be used as a guarantee. We
cannot assume responsibility nor liability for the use or misuse of the
information contained herein.
The following is a compilation of information gathered over the years from
various research and sources too numerous to remember.
Within these pages you will find descriptions of almost 150 chemicals
that are used in Fireworks, Explosives, Rocket Fuels or are explosives in
themselves. This list is not complete and is not intended to be complete. All
of the uses are not given and only the related purposes of each are stated.
Whenever possible we explain which grades are thought to be the best,
the chemical formula, melting temperature, decomposition temperature, form
(liquid, powder, crystal, etc.), if it will explode, if it is poisonous and
its usage. Some of these chemicals cannot be purchased and are offered as a
guide for information purposes only.
CHEMICALS HAVE A CERTAIN PURPOSE TO PERFORM IN FIREWORKS AND CAN BE CLASSIFIED

INTO FOUR GROUPS:
GROUP I.
These chemicals are the chemicals which produce the oxygen and are
called oxidizers.
GROUP II.
Those which combine with the oxidizers are called reducers.
GROUP III.
These are the chemicals which regulate the rate of burning and help to
produce the desired effect.
GROUP IV.
This group of chemicals are those which impart color to the flame.
PLEASE NOTE: ALL REFERENCES TO TEMPERATURE ARE IN DEGREES FARENHEIT.
SAFETY INCOMPATIBLE MATERIALS:
Certain combinations of chemicals are remarkable explosive, poisonous or

hazardous in some other way, and these are generally avoided as a matter of
course. There are many others that are perhaps equally dangerous but do not
come to mind as readily. The following list, although not complete, may serve
as a memory refresher. Stop and think for a moment before starting any work,
especially if one hazardous chemical is involved.
DO NOT CONTACT:
Alkali metals, such as calcium, potassium and sodium with water, carbon
dioxide, carbon tetrachloride, and other chlorinated hydrocarbons.
Acetic Acid with chromic acid, nitric acid, hydroxyl-containing compounds,
ethylene glycol, perchloric acid, peroxides and permanganates.
Acetone with concentrated sulfuric and nitric acid mixtures.
Ammonia, Anhydrous with mercury, halogens, calcium hypochlorite or hydrogen
fluoride.
Ammonium Nitrate with acids, metal powders, flammable fluids, chlorates,
nitrates, sulphur and finely divided organics or other combustibles.
Aniline with nitric acid, hydrogen peroxide or other strong oxidizing agents.
Bromine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, butane, hydrogen, sodium carbide,
turpentine or finely divided metals.
Chlorates with ammonium salts, acids, metal powders, sulfur, carbon, finely
divided organics or other combustibles.
Chromic Acid with acetic acid, naphthalene, camphor, alcohol, glycerine,
turpentine and other flammable liquids.
Chlorine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, benzene and other petroleum
fractions, hydrogen, sodium carbides, turpentine and finely divided powdered
metals.
Cyanides with acids.
Hydrogen Peroxide with copper, chromium, iron, most metals or their respective
salts, flammable fluids and other combustible materials, aniline and
nitromethane.
Hydrogen Sulfide with nitric acid, oxidizing gases.
Hydrocarbons, generally, with fluorine, chlorine, bromine, chromic acid or
sodium peroxide.
Iodine with acetylene or ammonia
Mercury with acetylene, fulminic acid, hydrogen.
Nitric acid with acetic, chromic and hydrocyanic acids, aniline, carbon,
hydrogen sulfide, flammable fluids or gases and substances which are readily
nitrated.
Oxygen with oils, grease, hydrogen, flammable liquids, solids and gases.
Oxalic Acid with silver or mercury.
Perchloric Acid with acetic anhydride, bismuth and its alloys, alcohol, paper,
wood and other organic materials.
Phosphorous Pentoxide with water
Sodium Peroxide with any oxidizable substances, for instance: methanol,
glacial acetic acid, acetic anhydride, benzaldehyde, carbon disulfide,
glycerine, ethylene glycol, ethyl acetate, furfural, etc.
Sulfuric Acid with chlorates, perchlorates, permanganates and water.
Some combinations of chemicals lead to especially sensitive or unstable

mixtures. There are many more of such incompatible chemicals/mixtures than
listed here but these are some of the more commonly encountered types:
5
Chlorates and sulfur. Mixtures containing both are not only very
sensitive to friction and shock but are also known to ignite
spontaneously. The sulfur reacts with water and air to form trace
amounts of sulfuric acid. This will react with chlorates to form
chlorine dioxide, a yellow explosive gas that will ignite most flammable
materials upon contact. Addition of small amounts of barium or strontium
carbonate to chlorate based compositions is sometimes done to prevent
buildup of acid, even in compositions without sulfur. Many older texts
on pyrotechnics describe the use of chlorate/sulfur based compositions.
Today, many alternative and much safer compositions are available and
there is therefore no excuse for the use of chlorate/sulfur mixtures.
This also means chlorate based compositions cannot be used in items that
also contain sulfur based mixtures. For example: chlorate based stars
cannot be primed with black powder. Nor can a H3 burst charge be used
with black powder primed stars (or stars containing sulfur).
6
Chlorates and ammonium compounds. Mixing these will allow ammonium

chlorate to form in a double decomposition reaction that takes place in
solution (moisture speeds up the process). Ammonium chlorate is a highly
instable explosive compound. It decomposes over time producing chlorine
dioxide gas (see chlorates and sulfur). Mixtures are likely to
spontaneously ignite upon storage or may explode for no apparent reason.
An exception seems to be the use of ammonium chloride and potassium
chlorate in some smoke compositions. According to Shimizu this
combination is safe due to the lower solubility of potassium chlorate
(compared to ammonium chlorate). I personally would still use these
mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it seems inevitable
that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The lower
solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a
Chlorates with metals and nitrates. These mixtures show the same
problems as chlorate/ammonium compound mixtures. The reason is that
nitrates can be reduced by most metals used in pyrotechnics to ammonium.
The reaction rate of this reaction is increased by presence of water.
Over time (for example when drying) these mixtures may spontaneously
ignite or become extremely sensitive. The fact that ammonium forms in a
relatively slow reaction is treacherous. These mixtures are referred to
as 'death mixes' by some.
Aluminum and nitrates. Mixtures of these compounds sometimes

spontaneously ignite, especially when moist. The mechanism is assumed to
be as follows: the aluminum reduces some of the nitrate to ammonium,
simultaneously forming hydroxyl ions. The aluminum then reacts with the
alkaline products in a very exothermic reaction leading to spontaneous
heating up of the mixture. This can eventually lead to ignition. The
reactions take place in solution and therefore moisture speeds up the
reaction. The process is usually accompanied by the smell of ammonia.
Some types of aluminum are more problematic than others. Stearin coated
aluminum is generally safer to use. The whole process can be prevented
in many cases by the addition of 1 to 2 percent of boric acid. This will
neutralise the alkaline products. It is best to bind such compositions
with non-aquaous binder/solvent systems such as red gum/ethanol. Since
aluminum/nitrate mixtures are extensively used it is important to be
aware of this problem which is why the combination is listed here.
Flash Powder:
ALL FLASH POWDERS ARE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS. THEY WILL IGNITE FROM FRICTION,
IMPACT, OR FLAME.
While it is assumed that the individual who is dispensing these materials is
responsible and knowledgeable as to their use, the following pointers will
prove helpful:
11 Always use electrical ignition, either a commercial squib or Nichrome
hot wire. The use of a squib is preferred because it provides a more
positive ignition.
12 Always use an approved flash pot, made from transite or other similar
material.
13 Always use the minimum amount of powder required to achieve the desired
effect. In general, one quarter of a teaspoon will be sufficient.
14 Always have only one person who is responsible for dispensing and
storing the flash powders.
15 Never pour the powder directly from the bottle into the flash pot.
Measure the correct amount using a non-sparking metal, not plastic,
spoon.
16 Never confine or compact the powder in any way. To do so may lead to a
violent explosion.
17 Never return unused powder to the original bottle.
18 Never mix two different colors of flash powder. In many cases, the
chemicals in the two materials are incompatible with each other.
19 Never pour flash powder from its plastic bottle onto plastic film or
into another plastic container. The material is packed in plastic to
reduce the danger of serious injury in case the powder should ignite in
the bottle.
20 Be extra careful on dry or low humidity days, when the chance of
ignition by static electricity is high.
Chemical Notes:
Aluminum Al
An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be
purchased as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to
superpure (99.9%) can be used. The danger is from inhaling the dust and
explosive room condition if too much dust goes into the air.
Aluminum Chloride AlCl3
This chemical must not come in contact with the skin as severe burns can
result. The yellowish-white crystals or powder have a strong attraction
for water. Purchase only in the anhydrous grade.
Amber
This is a fossil resin of vegetable origin and is yellowish- brown in
color. It is used in fireworks to a small extent.
Ammonium Bichromate and Dichromate (NH4)2Cr2O7
A mild poison used in the manufacture of tabletop volcanoes (sometimes
called Vesuvius Fire). It is available as orange crystals in a technical
grade. Also used in smoke formulas.
Ammonium Chloride NH4NO3
The common name is Sal Ammoniac. Comes as colorless crystals or a white
powder. The technical grade is used to manufacture safety explosives and
smokes.
Ammonium Oxalate NH4C2O4
This compound takes the form of colorless, poisonous, crystals. The
technical grade is suitable for the manufacture of safety explosives.
Ammonium Perchlorate (NH4ClO4)
This chemical can be made to explode by either heat or shock. Besides
exploding in itself, it is used to manufacture other explosives.
Ammonium Permanganate NH4MnO4
A moderate explosive which can be detonated by either heat or shock.
Ammonium Picrate (NH4C6H2N3O7)
These bright orange crystals are used in armor piercing shells and
fireworks. If heated to 300 degrees it will explode or it can be set off
by shock. If you do any work with this chemical, it is advisable to keep
it wet.
Aniline Dyes
These are used in smoke powder formulas. They are organic coal tar
derivatives. Available in many different colors.
Aniline Green C23H25CIN2

Also known as Malachite Green. One of the many Aniline dyes. The green
crystals are used in smoke formulas.
Anthracene
A coal tar derivative used as a source of dyestuff and for colored
smokes. Available as colorless crystals which melt at 217 degrees.
Antimony Sb
Another name for this metal element is Antimony Regulus. Purchase the
black powder in 99% purity. Not the yellow variety. It is used in
pyrotechnics.
Antimony Fulminate
One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds related to Mercury
Fulminate.
Antimony Potassium Tartrate
Also known under the name of Tartar Emetic. These poisonous,
transparent, odorless crystals (or white powder) are used to make
Antimony Fulminate. The moisture that is present can be driven off by
heating to 100 degrees. Do not exceed this temperature or the chemical
will decompose.
Antimony Sulfide (Sb2S3)
This has usefulness in sharpening the report of firecrackers, salutes,
etc. or to add color to a fire. The technical black powder is suitable.
Avoid contact with the skin; dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Aqua Regia
A strong acid containing 1 part concentrated Nitric Acid and 3 parts
concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. Store in a well closed glass bottle in a
dark place. This acid will attack all metals, including gold and
platinum. It is used in making some explosives.
Arsenic Sulfide, Red
The common name is Realgar and it is also known as Red Arsenic. Purchase
the technical grade, which is available as a poisonous orange-red
powder. It is used in fireworks to impart color to the flame.
Arsenic Sulfide,Yellow (As2S3)
This Chemical is just as poisonous as its red brother and is also used
in fireworks, somewhat. The common name is Kings Gold.
Arsenious Oxide (As2O)3
A white, highly poisonous powder used in fireworks. It is also known as
Arsenious Trioxide, Arsenic Oxide and Arsenous Acid. Its uses are
similar to Paris Green.
Asphaltum
A black bituminous substance, best described as powdered tar.
Auramine Hydrochloride
Also known as Auramine. It is used in smoke formulas. Available as
yellow flakes or powder, which readily dissolves in alcohol.
Auramine
A certified Biological stain used in smoke cartridges.
Barium Carbonate BaCO3
This is a poisonous salt of Barium, which decomposes at a fairly high
temperature, 1300 degrees. It is available as a fine white powder in the
technical grade. It is used in fireworks as a color imparter.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO3)2H2O
Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts.
It is used in fireworks, both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is
as powerful as Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same
care. Melting point is 414 degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO3)2
The uses and precautions are the same as above with a comparison equal
to Potassium Nitrate instead of the Chlorate. It melts at 500 degrees.
Bismuth Fulminate
One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds derived from Fulminic
Acid.
Brass
This is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Some also contain a small
percentage of Tin. The commercial grade is suitable in powdered form. It
is used in some fireworks formulas.
Calcium Carbide CaCO3
These grayish, irregular lumps are normally packed in waterproof and
airtight metal containers. It is used in toy cannons. Mixed with water
it forms Acetylene Gas (EXPLOSIVE).
Calcium Carbonate CaCO3
This occurs as the mineral Calcite. It is used for Phosphorous
Torpedoes, but does not have any dangerous properties in itself. Also as
an acid absorber in fireworks.
Calcium Fluoride CaF2
This finds its use in a smokeless firework mixture and is not used
elsewhere. It is a white powder, also known as Fluorspar.
Calcium Phosphide Ca3P2
This compound, which comes as gray lumps, must be kept dry. Upon contact
with water it will form the flammable gas, Phosphine. It is used in
signal fires.
Camphor OC10H16
A ketone found in the wood of the Camphor tree, native to Taiwan and a
few of our states. For the best results, buy the granulated, technical
grade. Used in explosives and fireworks.
Castor Oil
The common drug store variety is used in some powders to reduce the
sensitiveness and to waterproof the mixture.
Charcoal C
A form of the element, Carbon, it is used in fireworks and explosives as

a reducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust up to a coarse powder.
The softwood variety is best and it should be black, not brown.
Chrysoidine
An organic dye available as a red-brown powder. It is used in smoke
formulas.
Clay
This can be purchased in the powdered form. It is used dry for chokes,
nozzles and sealing firework cases. You can mix it with water to form
paste if so desired.
Confectioners Sugar
Commonly called powdered sugar, it can be purchased at your local food
store. The fineness is graded by the symbol XXXX. It is used in
explosives.
Copper Cu
As any pure metal used in fireworks, this must also be in a powdered
state. It is reddish in color, in fact, it is the only element to be
found in nature having that color.
Copper Acetoarsenite (Cu)3As2O3Cu(C2H3O2)2
The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called Kings Green
or Vienna Green. It is readily available as an insecticide or as a
technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in
fireworks to add color.
Copper Arsenate CuHAsO3
A fine, light green, poisonous powder. It is used in the technical grade
for fireworks.
Copper Carbonate CuCO3.Cu(OH)2
Also known as Cupric Carbonate or Artificial Malachite. It is a green
powder used in fireworks.
Copper Chlorate Cu(ClO3)2.6H2O
Or, technically, Cupric Chlorate. A poison used in fireworks as an
oxidizer and to add color.
Copper Chloride CuCl2
An oxidizer and color imparter used in fireworks. Purchase the brownishyellow technical grade. This is a poisonous compound.
Copper Nitrate Cu(NO3)2.3H2O
Or Cupric Nitrate. These blue crystals absorb water, as you can see from
the formula. It is used in fireworks.
Copper Oxide CuO
When ordering be sure to specify the black powder. It is also available
in red. The technical grade will serve the purpose for fireworks.
Copper Oxychloride
A green powder used to impart oxygen and color especially to blue star
formulas. It is a poison and the dust should not be inhaled.
Copper Sulfate CuSO4.5H2O

Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue
crystals or blue powder. It can be purchased in some drugstores. Used in
fireworks for blue stars.
Copper Sulfide CuS
As are the other copper salts, this is also used in fireworks to add
color. The technical grade is suitable and is black in color. You can
make your own by passing Hydrogen Sulfide into a Copper salt.
Decaborane B10H14
This chemical is classed as a flammable solid and is used for rocket
fuels. It will remain stable indefinitely at room temperature.
Diazoacetic Ester C4H6N2O2
A very severe explosive in the form of a yellow oil. It will explode on
contact with Sulfuric acid or when heated. Very volatile and explosive.
Diazoaminobenzene C6H5N:N.NH.C6H5
These golden yellow crystals will explode when heated to 150 degrees.
P-Diazobenzeneslfonic Acid C6H4NSO3N
Another severe explosive. It can be exploded by rubbing the white paste
or powder, or by heating.
Diazodimitrophenol HOC6H3(NO2)2N(:N)
An organic explosive in the same group as the above compound. Also very
sensitive to shock or heat.
Diazomethane CH2N2
Also known as Azimethylene. This yellow gas is also in the above group
and can be exploded by heat or shock.
Dinitrotoulene
Known as DNT for short. These yellow crystals are used in the
manufacture of other explosives.
Ethyl Alcohol
This alcohol is the only one that is useful for fireworks. It should be
about 95% pure. It is poisonous because of the impurities. It is clear,
like water, and also a very flammable liquid.
Fluorine Perchlorate FClO4
A very sensitive colorless gas which will explode on the slightest
contact with a rough surface. It can also be detonated by heating to 168
degrees. Avoid all contact with this gas, as even a trace of it will
attack the lungs.
Gallic Acid C7H6O5.H2O
A white or pale fawn colored powder used in fireworks to make whistles.
When mixed with some chlorates, Permanganates or Silver salts, it may
explode.
Glycerol C3H8O3
Commonly known as Glycerin. It is obtained from oils and fats as a byproduct when making soaps. It is a sweet warm tasting syrupy liquid
which is used in several explosives. Contact with Chromium Trionide or

potassium Permanganate may cause an explosion.
Gold Explosive
A dark brown powder which explodes when heated or rubbed. Upon
exploding, it yields Gold, Nitrogen and Ammonia. The exact composition
is unknown because it is too explosive to be dried.
Guanidine Nitrate CH5N3.HNO3
Guanidine is found in turnip juice, rice hulls and earthworms. It is
used in the preparation of this chemical, or, it can be made from
Ammonium Nitrate and Dicyanodiamide. To be of any value, it should be
95% pure. Guanidine Nitrate is not explosive itself, but is used in the
manufacture of explosives. It is a white powder which melts at 210
degrees.
Gum Arabic
A dried, gummy, exudate from tropical trees. It is available as flakes,
fragments and powder. It is used as a binder in firework formulas.
Hexachlorethane CCl3.CCl3
Also known as Carbon Hexachloride, this chemical is used in smoke
formulas It can be obtained in either powder or crystals.
Indigo
A dark blue crystalline powder which is a commercial dye. You can
purchase either the technical or pure grade for smokes.
Iodine
Heavy grayish metallic looking crystals or flakes. Poisonous. Purchase

the U.S.P. grade. It is being used in making explosives.
Iron Fe
The granular powder (at least 99% pure) is needed for several firework
pieces. It is not a dangerous element but will rust very easily, making
it useless.
Iron Oxide FeO These black crystals are used in thermite mixtures. When
ordering, it may be listed as Ferrous Oxide. Black.
Kieselguhr
This is a whitish powder used in dynamites. It is a siliceous earth,
consisting mainly of diatoms. A good grade will absorb about four times
its own weight.
Lactose
Also called milk sugar. This white powder has a sweet taste. The crude
grade will work for smoke formulas.
Lampblack
This is another name for the element, carbon(pencil lead). It is a
finely powdered black dust, resulting from the burning of crude oils. It
is used for special effects in fireworks.
Lead Azide PbN6
This is a poisonous white powder which explodes by heating to 350

degrees or by concussion. The main usage is in primers. It can be made
from Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate.
Lead Bromate Pb(Bro3)2.H2O
Poisonous, colorless crystals. Pure Lead Bromate is not explosive unless
it is made from precipitated Lead Acetate with an alkali bromate. Made
in this manner, it can be exploded by rubbing or striking.
Lead Chloride PbCl2
It is available as a white crystalline, poisonous powder which melts at
501 degrees. It is used in fireworks.
Lead Dioxide PbO2
Also known as Brown Lead Oxide, this dark brown powder is used as an
oxidizer in matches and fireworks. Poisonous.
Lead Nitrate Pb(NO3)2
Available as white or colorless crystals in the technical grade. The
uses include matches and explosives. Poisonous.
Lead Oxide Pb3O4
Also known as Red Lead or Lead Tetroxide. A 95% purity is desired for
matches. Also poisonous.
Linseed Oil
Available in many forms: Brown, boiled, raw and refined. All are made
from the seed of the flax plant. The cheapest form is suitable for
fireworks. Purchase from a paint store.
Lithium Chloride LiCl
The technical grade is sometimes used to add color to fireworks
compositions. Available as a white powder.
Manganese Dioxide MnO2
Used in pyrotechnic mixtures, matches and match box friction surfaces.
Available as a technical grade, black powder. This oxidizer decomposes
at 535 degrees.
Magnesium Mg
This metal is used in a powdered state for brilliancy in flares and will
even burn vigorously underwater.
Mercuric Chloride HgCl2
A white, poisonous powder. Also known as Corrosive Sublimate. It can be
made by subliming Mercuric Sulfate with ordinary table salt and then
purified by recrystallization. The U.S.P. grade is used for some
firework compositions.
Mercuric Oxide HgO
Available in two forms; red and yellow. Both forms give the same
oxidizing effects in fireworks. The technical grade is suitable.. All
forms are poisonous.
Mercuric Oxycyanide HgO.Hg(CN)2
In the pure state it is a violent poison which will explode when touched
by flame or friction.
Mercuric Thiocyanate Hg(SCN)2
A poisonous, white odorless powder used in the making of Pharaoh"s
Serpents. Use the technical grade.
Mercurous Chloride HgCl
Also known as Calomel or Mercuric Monochloride. This white, nonpoisonous powder will brighten an otherwise dull colored mixture.
Sometimes it is replaced by PVC or Hexachlorobenzene and even Antimony
Sulfide, for the same purpose. Note that it is non poisonous only when
it is 100% pure. Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride,
which is poisonous in any form.
Mercury Fulminate Hg(ONC)2.H2O
A crystalline compound used in primers, percussion caps, blasting caps
and other detonators. Explodes very easily from heat or shock.
Methylene Blue C16H18N3SCl
This dark green powder is used for smokes in the technical grade. Also
called Methylthionine Chloride.
Mineral Jelly
Also known as Vaseline, Petrolatum or Petroleum Jelly. This acts as a
stabilizer in fireworks and explosives.
Naphthalene
This is a tar product that you may know better as Moth Flakes or moth
balls. Only the 100% pure form should be used in making smoke powders.
The melting point is 100 degrees.
Nitric Acid HNO3
Also known as Aqua Fortis. It is a clear, colorless corrosive liquid,
which fumes in moist air. It can react violently with organic matter
such as Charcoal, Alcohol or Turpentine and consequently must be handled
Very carefully. It is available in three forms: White fuming, Red Fuming
and Concentrated (70 to 71%). The latter, with a specific gravity of
1.42, is the proper grade to buy. Whatever grade, avoid contact with the
fumes or the liquid. Contact with the skin will cause it to burn and
turn yellow. It is used to manufacture many explosives.
Nitroglycerin C3H5N3O9
A liquid with a sweet burning taste, but do not taste it or it will
produce a violent headache or acute poisoning. It can be made to explode
by rapid heating or percussion. It is used as an explosive and also to
make other explosives.
Nitroguanidine H2NC(NH)NHNO2
A yellow solid made by dissolving Fuanidine in concentrated Sulfuric
Acid and then diluting with water. Dangerous Explosive.
Nitromethane CH3NO2
An oily, poisonous liquid, which is used as rocket fuel.
Oil of Spike
This is a volatile oil obtained from the leaves of certain trees. Keep
this colorless (or pale yellow) liquid well closed and away from light.
It is used in some fireworks.
Paraffin
This is a white or transparent wax. It is normally sold in a solid
block. You can use it to make the required powder.
Paranitroanaline Red (H2NC6H4)3COH
A dye used in smoke formulas. It dissolves in alcohol and will melt at
139 degrees. It is also known as P-Aminophenyl.
Pentaerythritol Tetranitrate C5H8N4O12
A high explosive known as PRTN. Besides being an explosive itself it is
used in a detonating fuse called Primacord.
Perchloryl Fluoride ClFO3
A gas under normal air pressure. When brought in contact with alcohol,
explosions have resulted.
Phosphorus P
This element comes in three forms, with three different ways of
reacting. They resemble each other in name only. Red Phosphorous is the
only suitable form for fireworks and matches. It is a non-poisonous
violet-red powder. It will ignite at 260 degrees. When making a formula
containing Phosphorous, be sure to work with it in a WET STATE. This is
a most dangerous chemical to work with and should be handled only by the
most experienced. Oxidizers have been known to detonate violently
without warning when mixed with Red Phosphorous.
Phosphorous Pentasulfide
Also known as Phosphoric Sulfide. These light yellow crystals are used
in matches.
Phosphorus Trisulfide P2S3
This chemical can catch fire from the moisture that is present in air,
therefore the container should be kept tightly capped. The technical
grade, purchased as grayish-yellow masses, is used in making matches.
Picric Acid
This is used to bring out and improve the tone of colors in various
fireworks. It is also used to make other chemicals that are used in
fireworks and explosives. Picric Acid can explode from heat or shock. It
is interesting to note what it is called in other countries: Britain Lyddite; France - Melinite; Japan - Shimose.
Plaster of Paris
This is a white powder, composed mostly of Calcium Sulfate. It is used,
by mixing with water, for end plugs in fireworks and also in some
formulas.
Potassium K
A soft silvery metal element. It will react vigorously with water and
several acids. It is not used directly except for some experiments.
Potassium Chlorate KClO3
This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it

was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the
door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that
is used as an oxidizer. Never ram a mixture containing Potassium
Chlorate. Do not store mixtures which contain this chemical for any
great length of time, as they may explode spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K2CR2O7
Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in
fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Also
used in smokes.
Potassium Ferrocyanide K4Fe(CN)6.3H2O
Lemon yellow crystals or powder which will decompose at high
temperatures. It is used in the manufacture of explosives.
Potassium Nitrate KNO3
Commonly called Saltpeter; this chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes
at 400 degrees. It is well known as a component in gunpowder and is also
used in other firework pieces. Available as a white powder.
Potassium Perchlorate KClO4
Much more stable than its Chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or
slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to
make the formula safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to
make up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.
Potassium Picrate C6H2KN3O7
A salt of Picric Acid, this chemical comes in yellow, reddish or
greenish crystals. It will explode when struck or heated. It is used in
fireworks.
Potassium Thiocyanate KCNS
Colorless or white crystals which are used to make the Pharaoh's
Serpent. The commercial grade or pure grade is suitable.
n-Propyl Nitrate C3H7NC2
Prepared from Silver Nitrate and n-Propyl Bromide and is used as a jet
propellant.
Red Gum
Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many firework
formulas. Red gum is obtained from the bark of trees.
Rhodamine B
A basic fluorescent organic pigment also known as Rhodamine Red.
Available in green or red crystals or powder. It is used in smoke
formulas.
Shellac
An organic rosin made from the secretion of insects which live in India.
The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other
gums. The common mixture of Shellac and Alcohol sold in hardware stores
should be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in
color.
Silver Fulminate AgONC

A crystalline salt similar to Mercury Fulminate but more sensitive. In
fact, too sensitive for commercial blasting. It is used for toy
torpedoes and poppers.
Silver Oxide Ag2O
Dark brown, odorless powder. It is potentially explosive and becomes
increasingly more so with time. Keep away from Ammonia and combustible
solvents. The technical grade, which is about 92% pure, is suitable.
Sodium Aluminum Fluoride Na3AlF6
Also known as mineral, Cryolite. It is used in fireworks in the white
powdered form.
Sodium Bicarbonate NaHCO3
When a formula calls for this chemical, you can use Baking Soda (NOT
Baking Powder). It is a white, non-poisonous powder.
Sodium Carbonate NaCO3
This white powder is used in fireworks, but not to any great extent. The
anhydrous grade is best.
Sodium Chlorate NaClO3
An oxidizer similar to Potassium Chlorate, although not as powerful and
also with the disadvantage of absorbing water. Decomposes at 325
degrees.
Sodium Chloride NaCl
This is used in fireworks. You can use the common form, table salt (or
rock salt if made into a powder).
Sodium Nitrate NaNO3
Also known as Chile Saltpeter; very similar to Saltpeter, (Potassium
Nitrate). It is used where large amounts of powder are needed in
fireworks and explosives. It will absorb water as do other sodium salts.
Sodium Oxalate Na2C2O4
This is not a strong poison, but is poisonous, and you should not come
in contact with it or breathe the dust for any prolonged period. The
technical grade is best for making yellow fires.
Sodium Perchlorate NaClO4H2O
This chemical is used in fireworks and explosives. It is very similar to
Potassium Perchlorate with the exception that it will absorb water.
Sodium Peroxide Na2O2
A yellowish-white powder. It can explode or ignite in contact with
organic substances.
Sodium Picrate
Very similar to Potassium Picrate and should be handled with the same
precautions. It is also known under the name of Sodium
Trinitrophenolate.
Sodium Silicate Na2SlO3.9H2O
This chemical, commonly called water glass, is used as a fireproof glue.

It is available in syrupy solution and can be thinned with water if
necessary. When dry it resembles glass, hence the name. It can, when
desired, be thickened with calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, powdered
silica, or fiberglass (chopped) if extra strength is desired.
Stearin
Colorless, odorless, tasteless, soapy crystal or powder. Sometimes
referred to as Stearic Acid. Purchase the technical grade, powder. It
can often take the place of Sulphur and Charcoal in fireworks.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO3
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for
adding a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder in a pure,
technical or natural state.
Strontium Chloride SrCl2.6H2O
A colorless or white granulated chemical used in pyrotechnics. It will
absorb water and is not used often.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO3)2
By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and
fires. Available in the technical powder grade. An oxidizer with 45%
oxygen and absorbs water.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO4
This does not absorb water as quickly as nitrate and is used when
storage is necessary. In its natural state it is known as Celestine,
which compares to grades used in fireworks.
Sulphur (Sulfur) S
For example type II burns at 250 degrees giving off choking fumes.
Purchase good pyro grades low in acid. Used in many types of fireworks
and explosives.
Sulfuric Acid H2SO4
Also called Oil of Vitriol, it is a clear liquid with the consistency of
a thin syrup. Bottles should be kept tightly closed as it is a very
corrosive and dangerous chemical. It has a great affinity for water and
will absorb it from any source. The effect can be a charred surface or
fire. The grade used in explosives is 93-98%.
Sulfur Trioxide SO3
This powder will combine with water with explosive violence to form
Sulfuric Acid. If brought in contact with wood flour and a drop of water
is added, a fire will start. It is used to make some explosives.
Trinitrotoluene (NO2)3C6H2CH3
Commonly known as TNT. The poisonous crystals are colorless in the pure
state. It is more powerful and expensive than Dynamite. If not confined
it will burn like dynamite. Used as a high explosive and to make others.
Wood Flour
This is merely another name for sawdust or wood meal. It is used in
fireworks and explosives.
Zinc Zn
Of all the forms, only the dust is suitable in the technical or high
purity grade. It is a gray powder used in star mixtures and for fuel in
model rockets.
Zinc Borate 3ZnO.2B2O3
A white amorphous powder used in making smoke formulas. A relatively
safe compound to handle.
Zinc Carbonate ZnCO3
Another white Zinc compound used in some smoke formulas. Also a safe
compound to handle.
Zinc Oxide ZnO
Sometimes called Flowers of Zinc. This is a white or yellowish powder
used in some firework formulas. It has also found use as a thickening
agent in water glass when a stronger pyro paste is desired.
HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS:

The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the
small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:
Ingredients:
1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that
does not use staples)
The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.
-Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in
two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet.
-Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders
to roll towards the middle of the sheet.
-By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in
the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from
either of the loose ends.
-Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it
must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely)
and store away from people, houses, and valuable items.
Tools:
As with many hobbies, pyrotechnics requires some tools. For what I do, it's
usually all pretty simple stuff. When you get into real pyrotechnics, you need
things like ball mills, presses, and star rollers. For some info on those
things, click here and here.
Scales:
A good scale is an absolute must for real pyrotechnics. When measuring

compositions, all measurements are done by weight, so you need an accurate
scale. Postal scales that use a spring are crap and are not suitable for
accurate measurements. You need either a digital scale or a tripe beam
balance.
My digital scale:
I didn't shop around when I bought my scale, so I got ripped off! I bought the
"MX-200 Pyro Scale" for $90 and later found it on eBay for much less.
There are many different places that sell scales, and you should get one with
0.1g accuracy.
A few sites that sell scales (there are many more):
Cyberscale
eBay is definitely worth a look, you can get great deals sometimes!
eXactaDigital
Balances.com
Pyrotek has scales, along with a lot of other stuff.
Ball mills:
Ball mills are
needed to make
either buy one
ball mills are
very important to the serious pyrotechnician because they are

good blackpowder at home and to mill powders finely. You can
or make one and rock tumblers often work just as well (some
just rock tumblers with a different name).
Lortone rock tumbler sold by United Nuclear as a ball mill:
UN ball mills and milling media.

The "ball mills" UN sells are Lortone rock/jewelry tumblers, but from what
I've heard, they work very well. The Lortone website has them listed much
cheaper than UN sells them, so you should check it out. eBay is also a place
to find them, but after shipping it might not be any cheaper.
Making a bal mill can be a good project if you like building things, and it
will be a lot cheaper than buying one. A few pages on making your own:
Dan Williams ball mill

Wouter Visser's ball mill
Mortar & Pestle:

A mortar and pestle are very useful for grinding up chemicals into powder. For
larger amounts or for making black powder you will obviously want a ball mill,
but for small amounts a mortar and pestle can be very useful. They can be
purchased at cooking stores and chemistry supply stores/websites.
Mortar and Pestle:
Coffee Grinder:
Coffee grinders are somewhere between a mortal and pestle and a ball mill. I
find some of the best things to use them for is to grind prilled KNO3 and
NH4NO3. Some people also use them to grind Al foil before they ball mill it to
make rather large flake Al powder. I got mine for $11.
Coffee grinder:
Glassware:
Glassware is used more often to make HE's than to be used for LE's. The basics
are shown here, flasks, graduated cylinders and thermometers.
Assorted glassware:
Electric Hotplate:
Hotplates can be used for a number of things related to
pyrotechnics/explosives. You could use it for melting KNO3/sucrose, boiling 3%
H2O2 to concentrate, or any other procedure like TNP that requires heating.
You could get a fancy one specifically for lab use that will get hotter and do
it faster, or you can buy one intended for home use. I bought a "Toastmaster"
hotplate for $20 at a large hardware/appliance store.
Hotplate:
There are plenty of basic tools that will often come in handy, that are a lot
cheaper also!
Ignition supplies:
You will definitely need something to light your devices (unless you are using
electrical ignition) so these are some of the most basic things. A lighter and
matches are both good, but are not ideal for directly lighting fuses. A better
choice is a punk. Punks are pretty much just a stick with sawdust or something
on them. They look and burn like incense, but without the smell. Because you
have a constant coal, they work very well for lighting fuses. Just be sure not
to light your device and then toss your lit punk into a pile of dry grass!
There are two general sizes, incense size and much larger ones that I like
better.
Protection:
Safety is a very important part of pyro, as it can be a fairly dangerous
hobby. Your eyes are very vulnerable, so you should were eye protection while
working with devices and setting them off. There are several different choices
of protection, either eye or full face. Choose what to wear depending on what
you are doing. It would of course be best to have full face protection at all
times, but it isn't always essential.
Hand protection should be used whenever you are working with something that
has the potential to ignite. Leather gloves should be worn for best
protection. While working with powders, you should were a dust mask to keep
particles out of your nose, mouth, throat and lungs. Check MSDS sheets for
specific precautions for different chemicals. A respirator is a good thing to
have sometimes, Ill probably buy one myself before too long.
Knives:
Knives have all kinds of uses, and can often be used for things such as
cutting open firework casings. There are millions of things to do with a
knife, not just pyro related. Buy a good one and it should last you a long
time.
Light:
You will probably set off some of your devices at night, and it's a good idea
to be able to see where you are going! This is very basic, so it can sometimes
be forgotten. Maglites are good, but I really like a lightweight LED headlamp
because you don't need your hands and it is very bright.
Pliers/cutters:
Pliers can both be useful for things like peeling casings or crushing powder.
I use wire cutters for things like cutting the sticks off bottle rockets for
making a Can o Rockets.
If you think of any other tools I forgot, feel free to email me and I'll add
them.
[Information copied from http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/infodir/tools.html]
3.0 EXPLOSIVE THEORY

An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air
are displaced by the expanding gases. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains
the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: highorder explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In
a high explosive, the fuel and oxidizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to
produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of
high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxidizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as black powder. Others, such as
gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm;
they usually burn much slower than black powder when they are ignited in
unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are
also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 explosive classification:
CLASSIFICATION
EXPLOSIVE
COLOR
USES
RATE OF
DETONATION
Black
Powder
Black, gray
or cocoa
brown
Safety fuze,
1,312 feet
Muzzle
per second
loaders
Smokeless
Powder
Light brown
to black
Small arms,
mortars,
rockets
Lead Azide
White to
buff gray
Detonators, 13,400 to
priming
17,000 feet
Lead
Styphnate
White to
buff gray
Priming
17,100 Feet
Mercury
Fulminate
Light orange Detonators, 11,500 to

to reddish
priming
21,100 feet
brown
Tetracene
Pale yellow
Low Explosives
Primary
Explosives
Rapid
burning
Detonators, Less than

priming
13,100 feet
REMARKS
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
very
sensitive to
friction
heat and
shock
sensitive to
shock and
heat. Used
in
combination
with other
explosives
Amatol
Buff to
yellow to
dark brown
Ammonal
Gray
Ammonium
Nitrate
14,800 to
21,100 feet
per second
Projectile
17,700 feet
filler
per second
Ingredient of
White but
3,300 to
many
may be dyed
8,200 feet
explosive
other colors
per second
mixtures
Developed
during WWII
to conserve
TNT
water
soluable
Must be kept
cool
Armor
piercing
projectiles
and bombs
22,500 feet
per second
Astrolite
White
pellets
Demolition
Inert until
2,600 to 26,
mixed.
Do
200 feet per
not use with
second
Tetryl
C-4
White to
light brown
Plastic
demolition
explosive
26,400 feet
per second
Cyclotol
Buff to
yellow to
brown
Fragmentation 25,900 to
bombs,
26,400 feet
projectiles per second
Excellent
for blast
effects
Flex-x
any color-Usually
olive drab
or red
Cutting
charges
22,300 feet
per second
Flexible,
waterproof,
insensitve
to shock
Gray
Main charge
filler for
underwater
bombs and
torpedoes
22,700 to
23,700 feet
per second
Excellent
for blast
effects
HMX
White
Mixed with
TNT in high
blast
warheads
29,900 feet
per second
By product
of RDX
manufacture
Kinepak
Powder is
white, the
20,100 feet
Construction
liquid is
per second
usually pink
Inert until
mixed
Ammonium
Picrate
yellow to
orange to
red
Secondary
Explosives
Secondary
Explosives
Main charge
for bombs,
projectiles
HBX
(Torpex)
Minol
gray
NitroCellulose
White
Filler for
19,100 to
bombs and
19,700 feet
depth charges per second
Blasting,
smokeless
powder
21,900 feet
per second
Relatively
insensitive
to shock and
friction
Insensitive
to impact
and friction
Comparable
to TNT in
sensitivity
to
initiation
Used in
flashless
powder
Secondary
Explosives
Can be
absorbed
through skin
causing
headache
One of the
least
sensitive
military
explosives
Another form
of Nitrocellulose
Excellent
for blast
effects
Presence of
grit
increases
impact
sensitivity
Presence of
grit
increases
impact
sensitivity
Nitroglycerin
Clear to
Demolition, 4,900 to
amber.
Red
ingredient in 25,400 feet
fumes mean
dynamite
per second
"Beware"
Nitroguanidine
White to
yellow
Nitrostarch
white
Octol
Buff
Pentolite
White to
yellow to
gray
PETN
Det cord,
white unless
27,200 feet
blasting
dyed
per second
caps, primer
Picratol
Yellow to
brownish
yellow
Armor
piercing
projectiles
and bombs
22,900 feet
per second
Insensitive
to
initiation
Cream to
Picric acid yellow to
red
Alternative
filler
19,00 feet
per second
Dangerous
when it
deteriorates
Propellant
and bursting 25,100 feet
charge
per second
ingredient
Mortar
shells,
grenades
Projectile
and bomb
filler
Shape
charges,
boosters
16,00 feet
per second
27,500 to
28,300 feet
per second
24,500 feet
per second
RDX
White but
may be dyed
Det cord,
blasting
26,800 feet
caps, used to per second
make C-4
Not used
much until
WWII
Tetryl
Clear to
yellow to
gray
Booster,
25,800 feet
blasting caps per second
Colors skin
reddish
brown and
causes rash
Tetrytol
Bursters,
Light yellow
demolition
to buff
blocks
TNT
Light yellow Bombs,

21,800 to
to brown to projectiles, 22,400 feet
light gray
demolition
per second
Torpex
Gray
Secondary
Explosives
Depth
charges,
mines
24,000 to
24,200 feet
per second
24,600 feet
per second
Similar to
TNT and
Tetryl
Standard
with which
all other
explosives
are measured
Excellent
for blast
effects
More
powerful and
21,200 to
more
Tritonal
Silvergray
Bombs
22,000 feet
sensitive to
per second
shock than
TNT
There are hundreds of formulas for dynamite and
there is no set standard for detonation speed,
color, or size.
Dynamite with nitroglycerin as
an ingredient is becoming rare.
Nitroglycerin
Dynamit dynamite will crystalize after a long period of
e
storage.
A sudden temperature difference of 3
degrees can cause these crystals to detonate
without warning.
4.0 Chemical Equivalency list:

Acacia................................................................Gum
Arabic
Acetic
Acid..............................................................Vinegar
Aluminum
Oxide............................................................Alumia
Aluminum
Potassium
Sulphate.................................................Alum
Aluminum
Sulfate............................................................Alum
Ammonium
Carbonate.....................................................Hartshorn
Ammonium
Hydroxide.......................................................Ammonia
Ammonium
Oleate.....................................................Ammonia
Soap
Amylacetate...........................................................Banana
Oil
Barium
Sulfide.........................................................Black
Ash
Carbon
Carbinate...........................................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride...............................................Cleaning
Fluid
Calcium
Hypochloride............................................Bleaching
Powder
Calcium
Oxide...............................................................Lime
Calcium
Sulfate.................................................Plaster
of
Paris
Carbonic
Acid............................................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide......................................Ammonium
Salt
Ethylinedichloride...................................................Dutch
Fluid
Furfuraldehyde..........................................................Bran
Oil
Glucose...............................................................Corn
Syrup
Graphite.............................................................Pencil
Lead
Hydrochloric
Acid..................................................Muriatic
Acid
Hydrogen
Peroxide.......................................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.......................................................Sugar of
Lead
Lead
Tero-oxide.........................................................Red
Lead
Magnesium
Silicate..........................................................Talc
Magnesium
Sulfate.....................................................Epsom
Salt
Methylsalicylate................................................Winter
Green
Oil
Naphthalene............................................................Mothbal
ls
Phenol.............................................................Carbolic
Acid
Potassium
Bicarbonate............................................Cream
of
Tarter
Potassium
Chromium
Sulfate............................................Chromealum
Potassium
Nitrate.....................................................Salt
Peter
Sodium
Oxide................................................................Sand
Sodium
Bicarbonate...................................................Baking
Soda
Sodium
Borate..............................................................Borax
Sodium
Carbonate....................................................Washing
Soda
Sodium
Chloride.............................................................Salt
Sodium
Hydroxide.............................................................Lye
Sodium
Silicate............................................................Glass
Sodium
Sulfate....................................................Glauber's
Salt
Sodium
Thiosulfate...........................................Photographer's
Hypo
Sulfuric
Acid.......................................................Battery
Acid
Sucrose...............................................................Cane
Sugar
Zinc
Chloride.....................................................Tinner's
Fluid
Zinc
Vitriol
Sulfate.......................................................White

Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained
through a public or university library. There are also many publications that
are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to
make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary
magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS
________________________
WHAT COMPANY SELLS

__________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC.

EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881
PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
______________________________________________________________________________
_
UNLIMITED
CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
______________________________________________________________________________
_
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS
FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30
SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA
18328
______________________________________________________________________________
_
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.
BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET
AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
______________________________________________________________________________
_
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
AIR GUNS
______________________________________________________________________________
_
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.
TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.
PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
______________________________________________________________________________
_
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
______________________________________________________________________________
_
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
______________________________________________________________________________
_
RAINBOW TRAIL
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
______________________________________________________________________________
_
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
______________________________________________________________________________
_
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.
P.O. BOX 11
{GOOD PRICES!}
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
______________________________________________________________________________
_
*Any high school or college science or MST classroom has a buch of good
chemicals that are very useful in making many things in this book. Obviously
youl have to steal what you need, so be careful; if you are caught, you
problley be arrested and/or expelled.
______________________________________________________________________________
_
5.1-WEBSITES (links):
Skylighter-http://www.skylighter.com/- Probably the biggest and best online

supplier. They have a massive product selection and good prices. They have
many books and videos on pyrotechnics, as well as high quality pyro tools. You
must be on file with them to order, which means sending a copy of your drivers
license or other ID.
Firefox-http://www.firefox-fx.com/- Similar selection to Skylighter. They have
some products Skylighter does not and vice versa. You must be on file with
them to order.
Iowa Pyro Supply-http://www.iowapyrosupply.com/-I don't really know much about
this place, but they seem to have a good reputation on rec.pyrotechnics. Good
selection and prices, you must be on file to order.
Pyrotek-http://www.pyrotek.org/cgi-bin/newCataloger.cgi- Pyrotek sells a wide
variety of pyro, rocketry and chemistry supplies. They have a large selection
and decent prices. Warning! I have heard some bad things about this place. For
example, I got an email from somebody saying they ordered fuse here, never got
it, and did not get their money back. I have also heard from numerous people
who report having no problems at all. I have ordered from them with no
problems.
Dawntreader Pyrotechnics-http://www.dawntreader.net/info.html - Haven't heard
much about them, but they have quite a few chemicals and decent prices.
Wolter Pyro Tools-http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/index.html - Nice tools for
rockets, comets etc.
Pyrosupplies.com-http://www.pyrosupplies.com/ - "High quality and hard to find
pyrotechnic supplies"
Precocious Pyrotechnics-http://www.pyro-pro.com/
mortar tubes and other cardboard products.
LORTONE, inc.-http://www.lortone.com/
mills. Lists local distributors.
- Non-chemical supplies like
- Rock tumblers often used as ball
United Nuclear-http://www.unitednuclear.com/-No ID required, they have a lot

of good products, but prices are very high for many things. Shop around before
buying here. The no longer carry things like KClO4 and dark flake Al because
too many losers ordered them and got in trouble.
Stanford Systems Aerospace-http://www.ssaerospace.com/-A rocketry supplier.
Warning! Many people (including myself) have ordered from here and had serious
delays or have not received orders. DO NOT ORDER FROM HERE!
EBay-http://www.ebay.com/ - You can sometimes find chemicals like kno3,
sulfur, and potassium perchlorate here, but prices will most likely not be
very good.
Cannonfuse.com-http://www.cannonfuse.com/- They sell fuse and one size of
tubes, along with a few books and plans. You do not have to be on file and can
pay with cash. I have ordered from here with quick service, the price for fuse
is far better than United Nuclear.
Discount Pyro-http://www.discountpyro.com/index.htm- Small selection, but very
cheap. Requires ID. I have ordered here with no problems.
Pyro Plastics-http://www.pyroplastics.net/- Plastic aerial shell casings,
class B shells listed and a mention of expanding to Class C sales.
Pyrohobby-http://www.pyrohobby.com/
and doesnt require ID.
- A new supplier, sells a few chemicals
Pyrostuff-http://www.pyrostuff.com
http://www.hummelcroton.com-good source for ordering chemicals!
http://roguesci.org/megalomania/explosives.html-Really good source of
information on explosives(which is where I got many of the procedures that are
in this book), any kind of chemicals, and other cool scientific info.
-www.totse.com-Website with info on guns, explosives, drugs, and other stuff
people have sent in(although much information is questionable).
-http://www.armory.com/~spcecdt/pyrotech/pyrotest.html-a cool pyro purity
test.
http://www.bombshock.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi-kick-ass forum, good info.
(check it out!)
5.3-BOOKS:
_____
-THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
-MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
-FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
-Modern Chemical Magic
-Making Reliable Ignition Products at Home
6.0 Chemical preparation and sources:
6.1 Ammonium chloride:

Formula: NH4Cl
Description: Ammonium chloride is used in smoke compositions. When heated
ammonium chloride decomposes to HCl and NH3, both gasses. These recombine in
the air to give a smoke consisting of fine particles of ammonium chloride.
Hazards: Ammonium chloride based smoke is irritating to the eyes and lungs as
it contains some remaining HCl and NH3. Ammonium chloride itself is not
poisonous and is even used in some type of candy. According to Shimizu
ammonium chloride forms an exception to the rule that ammonium compounds
should not be mixed with chlorates. Due to the lower solubility of potassium
chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate) no ammonium chlorate . I personally
would still use these mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it
seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The
lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a

Sources: Ammonium chloride solution is easily prepared by neutralising ammonia
solution with hydrochloric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of
ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the
ammonium chloride obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise
traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading
to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it.
6.2 Ammonium nitrate:

Formula: NH4 NO3
Description: Ammonium nitrate is an oxidiser. It is very hygroscopic and
therefore not used very often in fireworks. It finds some use in composite
propellants, but performance is not as good as perchlorate based propellants.
Hazards: Large masses of ammonium nitrate have been known to explode on some
occasions although it is very unsensitive. Smaller quantities are less likely
to detonate. The risk of detonation increases when ammonium nitrate is molten
or mixed with fuels such as metal powders or organic substances. Ammonium
nitrate should never be mixed with chlorates as this may result in ammonium
chlorate formation, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition. Mixtures of
metal powders and ammonium nitrate are likely to heat up spontaneously and may
ignite, especially when moist. This can sometimes be prevented by the addition
of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%), but in general it is better to avoid
these mixtures at all. The hygroscopic nature of ammonium nitrates makes this
problem worse.
Sources: Ammonium nitrate solution can be prepared by neutralising ammonia
solution with nitric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of ammonia.
That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the ammonium nitrate
obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise traces of the acid
solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading to spontaneous
ignition of mixtures made with it. Large quantities of ammonium nitrate can
also be cheaply bought as fertilizer. In the Netherlands a fertilizer called
'kalkammonsalpeter' is sold. This consists of ammonium nitrate mixed with
'mergel', a mineral consisting mainly of calcium carbonate. The ammonium
nitrate can be extracted with water.
6.3 Ammonium perchlorate:

Formula: NH4ClO4
Description: Ammonium perchlorate is an oxidiser used in a large number of
compositions. Very impressive color compositions can be made with it, but
their burn rate is often too low for use in star compositions. For lancework
and torches slow burning is an advantage and it is therefore commonly used in
these items. Ammonium perchlorate is also used in composite rocket
propellants, including the propellants used in the solid propellant boosters

used for the space shuttle. The decomposition products of ammonium perchlorate
are all gasses which is very beneficial for rocket propellants.
Hazards: Ammonium perchlorate can detonate by itself, although it is not very
sensitive. Larger amounts and mixtures of ammonium perchlorate with metal
powders or organic substances are more likely to detonate.
Sources: Ammonium perchlorate is usually bought from chemical suppliers or
from dedicated pyro suppliers. Fine ammonium perchlorate powder is a regulated
substance in most countries and cannot easily be bought or transported. Since
it is such a usefull chemical in pyrotechnics it can be worth the time and
effort to try to prepare it at home. This can be done by first making sodium
perchlorate followed by double decomposition with ammonium chloride (other
ammonium compounds can be used). The preparation of sodium perchlorate is most
easily accomplished by electrolysis, the procedure for which is described
elsewhere on this page.
6.4 Barium carbonate:

Formula: BaCO3
Description: Barium carbonate is used both in white and green color
compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green color
will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine donors
BaO will be formed which emits white light. Barium carbonate is convenient to
use in chlorate based color compositions since it will neutralize residual
acid which reduces the risk of spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Most barium compounds are very poisonous, especially the more soluble
barium compounds such as the chlorate and nitrate. A dust mask should be worn
at all times when working with barium carbonate.
Sources: Barium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from
amounts of barium sulfide which are left over from the production process.
Therefore, ceramics grade barium carbonate should never be used in mixtures
incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Barium carbonate
is not easily made at home.
6.5 Barium chlorate:

Formula: BaClO3
Description: Barium chlorate is used as an oxidiser in green color
compositions. Fierce burning and high color purity compositions can be made
with it.
Hazards: Barium chlorate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all
times when handling it. Barium chlorate should never be mixed with sulfur or
sulfides or allowed to come in contact with mixtures containg sulfur or

sulfides since this could result in spontaneous ignition. (Sulfur reacts with
water and air to form small amounts of sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid and
chlorates react producing ClO2, an explosive gas which will ignite many
organic materials on contact). Mixtures made with barium chlorate are often
especially sensitive to friction and shock (even more so than potassium
chlorate based mixtures) and should be handled with extra care.
Sources: Barium chlorate is usually purchased from chemical suppliers or from
dedicated pyro suppliers. It can be made at home from sodium chlorate and
barium chloride by double decomposition. Barium chlorate can also be prepared
from barium chloride by electrolysis in a process analogous to that used for
preparing sodium chlorate.
6.6 Barium nitrate:

Formula: BaNO3
Description: Barium nitrate is used as an oxidiser in both white and green
color compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green
color will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine
donors BaO will be formed which emits bright white light. Barium nitrate is
seldom used as the sole oxidiser in green color compositions. It is usually
combined with perchlorates to improve the color and increase the burning rate.
Hazards: Barium nitrate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all
times when handling it. Mixtures of metal powders and barium nitrate sometimes
heat up spontaneously and may ignite, especially when moist. This can usually
be prevented by the addition of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%). It is
advisable to avoid using water to bind such compositions. Red gum or shellac
with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer are preffered binder and solvents.
Sources: Barium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate
and barium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply stores.
6.7 Barium sulfate:

Formula: BaSO4
Description: Barium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some
metal based green color compositions.
Hazards: Unlike many other barium compounds, barium sulfate is not very
poisonous due to its low solubility in water.
Sources: Barium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble
barium salt, such as barium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and
potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and are convenient
to use. The precipitated barium sulfate is a very fine powder which may be
rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and decanting. A final
washing in the filter with acetone or ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do
not use sulfuric acid to precipitate barium sulfate as this may result in the
inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated particles which can lead to
spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.8 Boric acid:

Formula: H3BO3
Description: Boric acid is a white powder which is used as an additive to
compositions containing aluminum or magnesium and a nitrate. The metal powder
can reduce the nitrate to an amide which will react with the metal powder in a
very exothermic reaction that can lead to spontaneous ignition of the
composition. This process is often accompanied by a smell of ammonia and is
most likely to occur with wet compositions. Addition of a few percent boric
acid can often prevent this reaction from taking place since it neutralizes
the very basic amides forming ammonia and a borate. It is also advisable to
avoid using a water soluble binder for these composition. Using red gum or
shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer is safer.
Hazards: Boric acid is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Boric acid is cheaply and in kilogram quantities available from
ceramic supply shops. It is also sold in many drug stores at a somewhat higher
price, but since only small quantities are needed the price is not really
important.
6.9 Calcium sulphate:

Formula: CaSO4.x H2O where x= 0, 2, 3 or 5
Description: The trihydrate is commonly known as plaster of paris. The
dihydrate occurs as a mineral known as gypsum . Calcium sulphate can be used
as a high temperature oxidiser in orange color compositions. Excellent strobe
compositions can be made with it.
Hazards: Calcium sulphate is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Plaster can be used as is in strobe compositions, but is better to
remove the water which is easily accomplished by heating.
6.10 Dextrin:
Formula: mixture of polysacharides
Description: Dextrine is one of the most commonly used binders in pyrotechincs

as it is very cheap and readily available. It is water soluble and can produce
rock hard stars.
Hazards: Colophonium is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Dextrine is easily prepared from starch. Potato and corn starch will
both work fine. The starch is spread out on a sheet in a layer about 1 cm
thick and placed in the oven. The oven is then heated to 220C for several
hours. The dextrine will turn slightly yellowish brown. One way to check if
all the starch has been converted is to dissolve a small sample in boiling hot
water and add a drop of KI3 solution. A blue color indicates presence of
starch, which means the conversion hasn't completed yet. KI3 solution is
conveniently prepared by dissolving a crystal of elemental iodine in a
potassium iodide solution.
6.11 Ethanol:
Formula: CH3CH2OH
Description: Ethanol is used as a solvent. Red gum and shellac, two common
binders both dissolve in ethanol well. Ethanol/water mixtures are also often
used since the ethanol increases the 'wetness' of the water (it reduces the
surface tension of the water) and reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Ethanol is flammable and volatile. Ethanol vapour is heavier than air
and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when working with
ethanol.
Sources: Chemically pure ethanol can be quite expensive due to increased tax,
unless it is used for laboratory purposes. Denaturated alcohol (usually a
mixture of ethanol and methanol) has been made undrinkable and therefore a lot
cheaper. It can be used for pyro purposes. Some types of denaturated alcohol
exist with other chemicals mixed in besides methanol to make it undrinkable
and recognisable as such (colorants etc). I have no idea what these extra
additives are and wheter they can cause problems in compositions. I have been
using 'spiritus' (a well known type of denaturated alcohol in the Netherlands)
for several years without problems.
6.12 Iron:
Formula: Fe
Description: Iron powder is used for spark effects, mainly in fountains and
sparklers. It produces golden yellow branching sparks. Not every iron alloy
will work equally well. Iron alloys with a high carbon content generally work
best. Stainless steel will produce hardly any sparks.
Hazards: Iron needs to be protected before use in pyrotechnic compositions.
Otherwise it will corrode and render the composition useless or even
dangerous. Iron containing compositions are generally best kept dry and not
bound with water soluble binders. Iron can be coated with linseed or tung oil.
The latter was used in ancient China (and may still be used today). Linseed is
very convenient to use and easy to obtain. Blackpowder-like compositions (ie
Charcoal/sulfur/saltpeter based) with added metal, such as they are often used
in fountains, are more sensitive than the composition without added metal.
Extra caution, especially when pressing or ramming, should be excersised.
Sources: Iron turnings can often be had for free from places were iron is used
for construction. Drilling, sawing etc produces a powder with wide range of
particles. This powder is treated with mineral oil to remove oil and grease,
sieved, and then coated with linseed oil.
6.13 Iron oxide (red):

Formula: Fe2O3
Description: Red iron oxide is used as a catalyst in composite and whistling
rocket propellant formulations. It is also added to some glitter formulations
and used for 'thermite', a mixture that produces enormous amounts of heat,
forming molten iron.
Hazards: Red iron oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Common rust is not iron oxide. It is a mixture of oxides and
hydroxides. A cheap source for red iron oxide is the ceramics supply shop.
6.14 Lead tetraoxide:

Formula: Pb3O4
Description: Lead tetraoxide, sometimes called 'lead minium', is used to make
crackling microstars. The composition is very sensitive, explosive and
poisonous. It is in fact one of the most dangerous mixtures used commonly in
modern pyrotechnics. An alternative mixture based on bismuth trioxide exists
(which is less poisonous), but the high price of bismuth trioxide restricts
its use.
Hazards: Lead tetraoxide, like most lead compounds, is extremely poisonous.
Lead is an accumulative neurotoxin and extreme care should be taken to prevent
direct contact. Lead tetraoxide may be absorbed by inhalation and ingestion.
Wear a respirator, gloves, and protective clothing.
Sources: Lead tetraoxide may be prepared from a solution of lead nitrate and
sodium hydroxide. Note that the procedure involves extremely corrosive and
poisonous chemicals and should only be attempted by those who have access to
(and know how to use) the right equipment and can handle the waste properly.
Prepare a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide by dissolving 300 grams of
sodium hydroxide in water. The solution will heat up during this. To prevent
it from boiling suddenly add only small portions at a time. When all has
dissolved, allow it to cool down to room temperature. Dissolve 50 grams of

lead nitrate in 200 ml of water, and slowly add the sodium hydroxide solution
to this solution while stirring continuesly. A white precipitate will form
first, which will turn orange when all sodium hydroxide solution has been
added. Stir this solution well for another hour, and then allow the lead
tetraoxide to settle. Carefully decant the supernatant, add boiling hot water
to the residue, stir, allow to settle and decant again. Repeat this 5 more
times. Then filter and rinse the lead tetraoxide in the filter several times
with hot water.
6.15 Manganese dioxide:

Formula: MnO2
Description: Manganese dioxide can be used as a catalyst in composite and
whistling rocket propellant formulations. A thermite-like mixture can also be
made with it. The manganese dioxide thermite burns more slowly than the iron
oxide based mixture with a bright white glow.
Hazards: Mangese dioxide is poisonous and leaves brown stains on glassware
etc. The stains can be removed with dilute hydrochloric acid (of course, only
when the stained object is not attacked by it).
Sources: Mangese dioxide can be obtained from old batteries or from the
ceramics supply store. The mangese dioxide in batteries is mixed with several
other compounds from which it must be separated. An easy, though messy way to
do this is as follows: Find a couple of depleted carbon-zinc batteries. Only
carbon-zinc type batteries will do. Do not use other types such as rechargable
or lithium based batteries. These, especially the rechargable ones, contain
extremely dangerous and/or poisonous compounds such as cadmium, mercury and
metallic lithium. Carbon-zinc batteries may contain small amounts of mercury
as well, especially the older types, so precautions should be taken to prevent
skin and eye contact and to prevent breathing or swallowing of dust. So: wear
your dust mask, glasses, gloves and old clothing. Then carefully take the
battery apart. You'll find a greyish white (zinc oxide) or metallic coating
(zinc metal) inside, depending on wheter the battery is empty or not. This
surrounds a black, sometimes wet, mass. This black stuff contains among other
things the mangese dioxide. Peel the coating off and save the black mass.
There is also a black rod inside attached to the anode. This is a graphite rod
and can be safed for chlorate (and maybe perchlorate) preparations. We'll
assume you use 2 batteries from here on. (if not, adjust amounts accordingly).
Place the black mass in 200 ml of 30% hydrochloric acid. The manganese dioxide
will slowly dissolve, giving off chlorine gas. Chlorine gas is dangerous: it
attacks the lungs and is poisonous. Do this outside or better yet: in a fume
hood if you have one. Allow the manganese dioxide several days to dissolve.
The solution is then filtered which should yield a clear solution of
manganese(III)chloride. In a separate container dissolve 200 grams of sodium
hydroxide in a liter of bleach. Add the manganese(III)chloride solution slowly
to the bleach/sodium hydroxide solution. This results in a brown precipitate
of manganese dioxide which is filtered, rinsed several times with boiling hot
water and dried.
6.16 Magnalium:
Formula: Alloy of magnesium and aluminum, usually 50:50. Sometimes written:
MgAl
Description: Magnalium is a very brittle alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Some
common uses are in for spark effects, in strobing compositions and in
crackling stars. It is commonly alloyed in
Hazards: Magnalium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when
handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and mangalium sometimes heat
prevented by treating the magnalium with potassium dichromate. This is done by
boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. Adding fine
potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also help.
Sources: Magnalium can be made at home. Plan well and prepare yourself for
working with molten metals that may ignite if you plan to make it at home. If
the metal ignites expect it to burn very brightly and hot. Explosions are not
common but may occur if the hot melt is allowed to contact water or oxidisers.
Do it outside and away from anything flammable. If it ignites don't try to
extuingish it but get away from the burning mass and let it burn out and cool
before approaching it. Don't look directly into the burning metal as it may
damage your eyes. Start by melting aluminum in a stainless steel container.
The molten metal should be covered with a blanked of inert gas. In this case
neither nitrogen nor carbon dioxide will function as an inert gas. It is best
to get a cylinder of argon gas at a welding supply store. Using an electric
furnace for the melting is very convenient and allows good control over the
temperature. To the molten aluminum magnesium is added in solid form. The melt
should be stirred from time to time. When all the magnesium has melted, the
melt is allowed to solidify. It is then easily crushed up in smaller chunks
with an heavy hammer. These chunks are crushed further and sieved. It can also
be ball milled into a fine powder using steel media but this can be dangerous
since the metal powder can become pyrophoric.
6.17 Magnesium:
Formula: Mg
Description: Magnesium powder is used in a wide variety of compositions, both
for spark effects and 'normal' fuel purposes. Relatively coarse magnalium is
used for spark effects. In flares and some bright colored star compositions it
functions as a normal fuel. It is superior to aluminum in color compositions
since MgCl2 and MgO are more easily vaporised than the corresponding aluminum
compounds. This reduces the amount of black-body radiation and improves the
color purity.
Hazards: Magnesium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when
handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and magnesium sometimes heat
prevented by treating the magnesium with potassium dichromate. This is done by
boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. The magnesium
will turn brown when this is done. Adding fine potassium dichromate powder to
such compositions may also help.
Sources: Making magnesium at home is very difficult. Magnesium can be bought
in boating supply stores. It is used to prevent corrosion of a ships hull. For
that purpose it is welded to the hull. The lower position of magnesium in the
electrochemical series will make the magnesium corrode before the steel will.
Making such a block of magnesium into a fine powder will not be easy. Filing
or cutting and ball milling may be tried. Ball milling of metals can be
dangerous however since the metal can become pyrophoric.
6.18 Methanol:
Formula: CH3OH
Description: Methanol is used as a solvent, much in the same way ethanol is
used. Red gum and shellac, two common binders both dissolve in methanol.
Methanol/water mixtures are also often used since the methanol increases the
'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface tension of the water) and
reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Methanol is flammable, volatile and toxic. Methanol vapour is heavier
than air and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when
working with methanol
Sources: Methanol is often more cheaply and easily availble than ethanol
because it is toxic and no extra taxes are charged for it. It finds use in a
certain type of camping stove and can often be bought in camping supply
stores.
6.19 Parlon:
Formula: (C4H6Cl2)n
Description: Parlon is a acetone-soluble polymere that is used as a chlorine
donor and binder. It is a good example of one of the new chemicals that has
become available in the past few decades for use in compositions.
Hazards: Parlon is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Parlon seems to be available from dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.20 Potassium benzoate:

Formula: KC7H5O2
Description: Potassium benzoate is commonly used in whistle compositions. It

is a white powder
Hazards: Potassium benzoate is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Potassium benzoate can be prepared from benzoic acid and potassium
carbonate or hydroxide. Benzoic acid is not very soluble, but both potassium
carbonate and hydroxide are. Dissolve 140.2g potassium carbonate or 56.1g
potassium carbonate in 250 ml water, and add 146g benzoic acid. Bring the
mixture to a boil. If potassium carbonate is used, CO2 gas will evolve.
Continue boiling untill all benzoic acid has dissolved, occasionally adding
some water to make up for what has evaporated. When all benzoic acid has
dissolved, continue boiling untill the first crystals of potassium benzoate
are observed (ie the saturation point has been reached). Then allow the
solution to cool to room temperature. Potassium benzoate will crystalise in
needle shaped crystals. Filter, and rinse the crystals twice with ice-cold
water. The crystals may be dried in an oven at 100 deg C.
6.21 Potassium chlorate:

Formula: KClO3
Description: Potassium chlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics,
even though it has some treacherous properties and other oxidisers would
sometimes be safer to use. Part of the reason of its popularity in commercial
pyrotechnics is that it is cheap and easily available. The large scale
production of this compound made the first quality colored fireworks possible,
about a century ago.
Hazards: Potassium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder. Compositions made with potassium chlorate tend to
be more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should
therefore be handled accordingly. Potassium chlorate, or any chlorate for that
on this problem.
Sources: Potassium chlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium
chlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. It may also be obtained as a
herbicide in some countries (France, for example) Then, by double
decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium chlorate is prepared from
This chemicals is used in many explosives. Potassium chlorate can also be
made into plastique explosives(*See Chapter 8-High Order Explosives). Common
household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be
extracted in the procedure that follows.
Materials:
-A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)

-A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
-A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
-Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Procedure:
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it.
While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add
this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated
with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a
battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between
room temperature and 0C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save
them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the
crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in
the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat
this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save
the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure
potassium chlorate.
*Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off
all moisture.
6.22 Potassium dichromate:

Formula: K2Cr2O7
Description: Potassium dichromate is a bright orange crystalline subststance
that is used to treat magnesium powder. The treatment makes magnesium more
resistant to spontaneous reactions that could result in lower reliability of
the mixture or spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Potassium dichromate is toxic and a carcinogen. It should be handled
with extreme care and proper protective clothing.
Sources: Potassium dichromate seems to be available from chemical suppliers
and dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.23 Potassium perchlorate:

Formula: KClO4
Description: Potassium perchlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics.
Composition based on perchlorates tend to be less sensitive than those based
on chlorates, and perchlorates can be used with sulfur and sulfides. For these
reasons potassium perchlorate is much preferred above chlorates. Drawback is
its slightly higher price.
Hazards: Potassium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be
worn when handling fine powder.
Sources:Potassium perchlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose,
sodium perchlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. Then, by double
decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium perchlorate is prepared from
6.24 Potassium Picrate:

Description: Potassium picrate was first prepared back in the mid 17th century
by J.R. Glauber. The first use for potassium picrate came in 1869, it found
its way into explosives, propellents, primers, and pyrotechnics. This
explosive is stable and resists shock, friction, etc. It will deflagrate if
subjected to flame, and in mixtures with oxidizing agents, it will only burn
if ignited, but it has lower sensitivity. This is not a very powerful
explosive, it is more suited to pyrotechnics and bullet primers.
CHEMICALS
nitric acid
picric acid
potassium carbonate
APPARATUS
beaker
Potassium picrate can be prepared by Glaubers original method of

dissolving wood in nitric acid then neutralizing the resulting mixture with
potassium carbonate. For the modern method, neutralize a hot aqueous solution
of potassium carbonate with a hot picric acid solution in a beaker of suitable
size, test the solution with litmus paper until neutral. Filter the crystals
that separate when the solution cools to collect them and allow to dry.
6.25 Polyvinyl chloride:

Formula: [C2H3Cl]n
Description: Like parlon and saran, PVC is a polymeric chlorine donor and
fuel. It can be used in the form of a fine powder or as a solution in
tetrahydrofuran (THF). It is sometimes used as a binder, but it is very
brittle. Small amounts of plasticiser (dioctyl phtalate is common) may be
added to improve the mechanical properties.
Hazards: PVC itself is not particularly dangerous or toxic. Dioctyl phtalate
is a suspected carcinogen however and THF is a very flamable and volatile
liquid.
Sources: As an alternative to the PVC powder available from chemical suppliers

and dedicated pyro suppliers, PVC glue may also be used. It is usually sold in
hardware stores and comes in two varieties: gelling or gap-filling and normal.
Both are essentially a concentrated solution of PVC. I have no experience with
the gelling variety, but the normal variety can succesfully be used in
compositions. The gelling variety may be better suited for pyro purposes since
it seems it contains more PVC. Another possibility is to use 'Sculpy' or
'Fimo' clay. These modelling clays consist of PVC with a large amount of
plasticiser. The plasticiser may affect the color of a composition negatively,
but reasonable results can still be obtained with it. It can simply be kneaded
into a composition with some effort. This type of clay is usually hardened by
heating it in an oven, but do not be tempted to do this with pyrotechnic
mixtures as they may ignite.
6.26 PICRIC ACID:
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military

explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________
phenol (9.5 g)
500 ml flask
concentrated
adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)

1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric
or other container
acid (38 ml)
suitable for boiling in
distilled water
filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes.
After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool
for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
3.13,
steps 3-4.
bath.
Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly.
A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.
When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap
water.
heat
Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel.
Collect the liquid and dispose of
it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask.
Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
6.27 Red gum:

Formula: Mixture of compounds.
Description: Red gum, or accaroid resin, is one of the most commonly used
binders. It is made from the excretions of a certain tree native to Australia.
Red gum is soluble in ethanol and acetone.
Hazards: Red gum is not particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: Red gum may be bought in artistic painting supply stores.
6.28 Sodium benzoate:

Formula: NaC7O2H5
Description: Sodium benzoate is a white solid that is used as a fuel. It's
most common use is in 'whistle mix', a mixture of potassium perchlorate and
either sodium or potassium benzoate.
Hazards: Sodium benzoate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Sodium benzoate can be made from sodium carbonate (soda) or sodium
hydroxide and benzoic acid which is often more easily available than it's
salts. Benzoic acid is only sparingly soluble in water. Dissolve either 425 g
hydrated sodium carbonate (common household soda) or 30 g sodium hydroxide in
water. Add 100 g of benzoic acid and boil the solution. The benzoic acid will
slowly dissolve. During boiling, occasionally add water to make up for what
has evaporated. If sodium carbonate was used, carbon dioxide gas will evolve.
After all the benzoic acid has dissolved, continue boiling allowing the water
to evaporate untill crystallisation begins. Then stop heating and allow the
solution to cool slowly to room temperature. Needle-shaped crystals of sodium
benzoate will form upon cooling. Cool the solution further to 0 deg C,
filtrate and rinse the crystals with ice-cold water. Purify the product by
recrystallisation from water.
6.29 Sodium chlorate:

Formula: NaClO3
Description: Sodium chlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it is
very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants. It
is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several
other (less hygroscopic) chlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder. Compositions made with sodium chlorate tend to be
more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should
therefore be handled accordingly. Sodium chlorate, or any chlorate for that
on this problem. Acidic solutions containing chlorates generate a very
poisonous and explosive gas, ClO2.
Sources:Sodium chlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing a
sodium chloride solution under certain circumstances. A description of the
chlorate and perchlorate section of this page. In some countries, France for
example, sodium chlorate may be obtained as a herbicide.
6.30 Sodium nitrate:

Formula: NaNO3
Description: Sodium nitrate finds occasional use as an oxidiser in flare and
tracer compositions because of the high efficiency of light emmision that can
be obtained with it, but its high hygroscopic nature limits its use. Sodium
nitrate can be used to prepare potassium nitrate, a much less hygroscopic and
more often used oxidiser.
Hazards: Sodium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: 95% pure sodium nitrate is available as a fertilizer. In the
Netherlands this fertilizer is sold under the name 'chilisalpeter'. If
required, it can be easily purified by recrystallisation.
6.31 Sodium perchlorate:

Formula: NaClO4
Description: Sodium perchlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it
is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants.
It is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several
other (less hygroscopic) perchlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn
when handling fine powder.
Sources:Sodium perchlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing
a sodium chlorate solution under certain circumstances. A description of the
chlorate and perchlorate section of this page.
6.32 Strontium carbonate:

Formula: SrCO3
Description: Strontium carbonate is used in combination with chlorine donors
to produce red colors. It also acts as an acid neutraliser, for which reason
it is prefered in chlorate based compositions (which may spontaneously ignite
when traces of acid are present).
Hazards: Strontium carbonate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from

amounts of strontium sulfide which are left over from the production process.
Therefore, ceramics grade strontium carbonate should never be used in mixtures
incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Strontium
carbonate is not easily made at home.
6.33 Strontium nitrate:

Formula: Sr(NO3)2
Description: Strontium nitrate is an oxidiser commonly employed in red color
compositions in combination with chlorine donors.
Hazards: Strontium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium
nitrate and strontium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply
stores. Use an excess of strontium carbonate to ensure complete neutralisation
of acid and recrystallise the product from a slightly alkaline solution to
prevent the inclusion of acid solvent droplets in the crystals.
6.34 Strontium sulfate:

Formula: SrSO4
Description: Strontium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some
metal based red color compositions.
Hazards: Strontium sulfate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble
strontium salt, such as strontium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate.
Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and
are convenient to use. The precipitated strontium sulfate is a very fine
powder which may be rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and
decanting. A final washing in the filter with acetone or ethanol will allow it
to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid to precipitate strontium sulfate as
this may result in the inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated
particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.35 Sulfuric acid:

Formula: H2SO4
Description: Sulfuric acid itself finds no use in pyrotechnics, but it can be

used in the preparation of an number of usefull compounds for which reason it
is included here.
Hazards: Sulfuric acid and its fumes are extremely corrosive. Wear proper
protective clothing (gloves, apron and a face shield are minimal) and provide
adequate ventilation when working with it. Reactions with metals often produce
flammable hydrogen gas (hydrogen). The presence of acid can cause spontaneous
reactions in many pyrotechnic mixtures and should at all times be avoided.
When working with sulfuric acid, have no chemicals or compositions nearby to
prevent contamination. Make sure all traces of acid in chemicals produced with
sulfuric acid are removed if they are to be used in pyrotechnics compositions.
Sources: Sulfur is available from agricultural supply stores where it is sold
as a fungicide under the name 'dusting sulfur'. It is a fine powder mixed with
a few percent of calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate may disturb delicate
color compositions, but for most purposes dusting sulfur works well. If a
purer form of sulfur is required, sulfur may also be obtained from drug stores
sometimes. However, these often sell 'flowers of sulfur', which has been
purified by sublimation and which contains some acid. This needs to be
neutralised before use as it could cause spontaneous ignition. To do this,
allow 100g of this sulfur to soak in a liter of water/household ammonia (1:5).
Stir well occasionally and measure the pH. It should still be alkaline after
two days, after which time the sulfur may be filtered and washed with hot
water to remove the ammonia. Check the pH of the washing water while
filtering. After it has become neutral, flush the water away with ethanol and
allow the sulfur to dry. Mix the dry powder with 2% magnesium carbonate to
neutralise any acid that may be formed in reactions with the atmosphere.
6.36 Zinc:
Formula: Zn
Description: Metallic zinc is used in rocket propellants, for spark effects
and in white smoke compositions. Zinc powder is quite heavy and zinc-based
stars often require heavier lift or burst charges to propell them.
Hazards: Zinc powder can spontanesouly heat up when wet.
Sources: Zinc powder is used in paints for the protection of steel. Spray cans
containing an suspension of zinc powder are commonly sold in hardware stores.
The zinc powder may be extracted by emptying the spray can in a large
container, allowing the powder to settle, decanting the solvent and paints and
repeated washing with paint thinner or acetone.
6.37 Zinc oxide:

Formula: ZnO
Description: Zinc oxide is used to produce white smoke.
Hazards: Zinc oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Zinc oxide is usually available as a white pigment called 'zinc
white' in artistic paint stores. It can also be prepared by igniting a piece
of zinc sheet.
6.38 Acetylene:
Description:
Acetylene is used in cutting torches and is extremely flammable.
Hazards: An acetylene explosion can be very harmful and dangerous.

use can result in death.
Improper
Sources: Can be found in sheet metal shops or any where a cutting torch is
used, as acetylene is the fuel used in cutting torches.
This gas can be produced by taking calcium carbide and submerging it
in water, in a flask. The acetylene gas is then collected by putting balloon
over the mouth of the flask.
6.39 Calcium Carbide:

Description:
Sources: Can be purchased online as Bangsite, a chemical used in novelty
cannons; or from other chemical suppliers.
6.40 Perchlorates:
A perchlorate is a chemical functional group, explosive more often then
not, with the formula -ClO4. Since so many pyrotechnic compounds seem to use a
perchlorate somewhere in the mix, it seemed logical to have them here. It is
easy to confuse perchlorates with chlorates, chlorites, and hypochlorites,
their formulas are ClO4, ClO3, ClO2, and ClO respectively. Perchlorate salts
are simply the product of a base with perchloric acid, although organic
perchlorates exist as well.
One thing perchlorates share in common is that they are strong
oxidizers, they should be kept away from any reducible materials and excessive
heat. Metal perchlorates tend to be more stable than organic perchlorates. One
of the first perchlorate salts to be identified was potassium perchlorate,
other salts of interest include aluminum perchlorate, ammonium perchlorate,
barium perchlorate, cadmium perchlorate, calcium perchlorate, cobalt
perchlorate, copper perchlorate, hydrazine diperchlorate, iron perchlorate,
lead perchlorate, lithium perchlorate, magnesium perchlorate, manganese
perchlorate, mercury perchlorate, nickel perchlorate, nitrosyl perchlorate,

nitryl perchlorate, silver perchlorate, sodium perchlorate, strontium
perchlorate, titanium tetraperchlorate, uranyl perchlorate, and zinc
perchlorate. Some of these are mere curiosities, their chemical precursors
will not be in the synthesis section. The usual data on safety and use of
these compounds has been omitted as well in the interest of keeping this lab
brief.
6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate:

Al(ClO4)3 melting point
2.209 g/mL
Set up a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask for refluxing and liquid
addition. The top of the reflux condenser needs to be capped with a drying
tube to protect the reaction from moisture. Heat to reflux some silver
perchlorate in anhydrous methyl alcohol, then slowly add a solution of
aluminum chloride in methyl alcohol drop by drop from the addition funnel. A
precipitate of silver chloride will appear, filter the product to remove the
silver chloride and heat the remaining solution at 150 C to remove the methyl
alcohol and crystallize the aluminum perchlorate.
6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate:
chemical formula
NH3ClO4 melting point
1.9518 g/mL
Ammonium perchlorate can be prepared in the lab by carefully neutralizing
perchloric acid with either gaseous ammonia or aqueous ammonium hydroxide.
Filter the solution to collect the crystals of ammonium perchlorate,
recrystallize them from water, and dry at 110 C until a constant weight is
obtained.
6.40-3 barium perchlorate:

Ba(ClO4)2 melting point
3.681 g/mL
Anhydrous barium perchlorate is prepared by heating a mixture of solid
barium chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate, or by heating a mixture of barium
carbonate and ammonium perchlorate.
6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate:

Cd(ClO4)2 melting point
311.30 g/mol
Anhydrous cadmium perchlorate can be prepared by mixing together cadmium
nitrate with anhydrous perchloric acid and 100% nitric acid.
6.40-5 calcium perchlorate:

Ca(ClO4)2 melting point
238.98 g/mol
Anhydrous calcium perchlorate can be prepared by heating a mixture of 100
g of calcium carbonate with 235 g of ammonium perchlorate. Ammonium carbonate
will be evolved as a gas, leaving behind pure calcium perchlorate.
6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate:

Co(ClO4)2 molecular mass
3.327 g/mL
The hexahydrate of cobalt perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
calcium carbonate, or calcium oxide, in aqueous perchloric acid. Evaporation
of the solution yields crystals of cobalt perchlorate.
6.40-7 copper perchlorate:

Cu(ClO4)2 melting point
82.3 C molecular mass
2.225 g/mL
Anhydrous copper perchlorate is prepared by heating in vacuum at 200 C a
mixture of nitrosyl perchlorate and your choice of either copper monoxide,
copper dichloride, or copper nitrate. It can also be prepared by reacting
copper powder with nitrosyl perchlorate in an organic solvent.
6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate:

N2H4.2HClO4 melting point
2.21 g/mL
Hydrazine diperchlorate, or HDP, can be prepared by reacting equimolar
amounts of aqueous barium perchlorate with hydrazine sulfate. Filter to remove
the precipitate of barium sulfate, and evaporate the filtrate on a water bath
to yield crystals of HDP.
6.40-9 iron perchlorate:

Fe(ClO4)2 melting point
254.75 g/mol
Iron perchlorate is prepared by reacting 70% perchloric acid with iron
sulfide, or iron sulfate, followed by evaporation of the solution. Heat the
solution very gently to evaporate, strong heating can cause an explosion.
6.40-10 lead perchlorate:

Pb(ClO4)2 melting point
83 C molecular mass
2.6 g/mL
The trihydrate of lead perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving lead
carbonate in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporation the solution until
crystals appear.
6.40-11 lithium perchlorate:

Li(ClO4)2 molecular mass
205.84 g/mol
The trihydrate of lithium perchlorate can be prepared by reacting lithium
sulfate with barium perchlorate in solution, then evaporating the solution to
yield the crystals. It can also be prepared by reacting lithium carbonate with
aqueous perchloric acid.
6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate:

Mg(ClO4)2 melting point
224-520 C molecular mass
2.21 g/mL
The hexahydrate of magnesium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
pure magnesium oxide in dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate the solution until
fumes appear, then cool. Filter to collect the crystals of magnesium
perchlorate that should have formed, and recrystallize them from water.
6.40-13 manganese perchlorate:

Mn(ClO4)2 melting point
253.84 g/mol
The hexahydrate of manganese perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
manganese hydroxide, or manganese carbonate, in dilute perchloric acid.
Evaporate the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-14 mercury perchlorate:

Hg(ClO4)2 molecular mass
399.49 g/mol
Anhydrous mercury perchlorate can be prepared by adding a solution of
perchloric acid in trifluoroacetic acid to and mercury salt in trifluoroacetic
acid. Carefully evaporate the solution until crystals form.
6.40-16 nickel perchlorate:

Ni(ClO4)2 melting point
3.4 g/mL
The hexaammoniate of nickel perchlorate can be prepared by adding a
solution of 14 g of sodium perchlorate in 50 mL of water to a solution of 23.8
g of nickel dichloride and 5.4 g of ammonium chloride in 120 mL of water.
Slowly add with stirring 60 mL of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. Cool this
mixture for 4 hours with a salt-ice bath, then filter to collect the crystals
of the perchlorate.
6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate:

NO2ClO4 melting point
161.45 g/mol
Nitryl perchlorate can be prepared by distilling anhydrous perchloric
acid, allowing the distillate to drip onto a large excess of dry dinitrogen
pentoxide chilled to -80 C (yes that's negative) and some nitromethane. The
mixture is allowed to warm to room temperature, then kept under vacuum for 48
hours to remove any volatile contaminants.
6.40-18 potassium perchlorate:

KClO4 melting point
2.53574 g/mL
Potassium perchlorate is prepared by slowly adding 50 mL of concentrated
sulfuric acid to 2-5 g of potassium chlorate. The addition is slow to avoid
explosion. Alternately, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, or chromium trioxide can
be used instead of sulfuric acid. It can also be prepared by mixing potassium
chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate in solid form and heating. A residue of

potassium perchlorate will be left behind.
6.40-19 silver perchlorate:

AgClO4 melting point
2.806 g/mL
Anhydrous silver perchlorate can be prepared by adding anhydrous
perchloric acid to a solution of a silver salt dissolved in trifluoroacetic
acid. It can also be prepared by dissolving silver oxide in aqueous perchloric
acid and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-20 sodium perchlorate:

NaClO4 melting point
2.5298 g/mL
The monohydrate of sodium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
sodium carbonate in a slight excess of dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate some
of the solution, then cool to 50 C. The solid can be centrifuged, collected,
and dried at 250 C. The anhydrous can be obtained by recrystallizing from
water above 53 C.
6.40-21 strontium perchlorate:

Sr(ClO4)2 melting point
decomposes molecular mass
2.973 g/mL
The monohydrate of strontium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
pure strontium nitrate in an excess of perchloric acid, and neutralizing the
acid with strontium carbonate. Centrifuge to collect waste solids, and chill
the liquid until crystals of the perchlorate appear.
6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate:

Ti(ClO4)4 molecular mass
445.70 g/mol
Anhydrous titanium tetraperchlorate can be prepared by mixing 8 moles of
anhydrous perchloric acid with 1 mole of titanium tetrachloride at -10 C.
6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate:
UO2(ClO4)2 melting point

90 C molecular mass
469.0 g/mol
The hexahydrate of uranyl perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving
ordinary hardware store brand uranium trioxide in 40% perchloric acid.
Concentrate the solution on a water bath then chill to yield yellow crystals
of the perchlorate.
6.40-24 zinc perchlorate:

Zn(ClO4)2 melting point
2.252 g/mL
The hexahydrate of zinc perchlorate can be prepared by mixing solutions
of zinc sulfate and barium perchlorate, filtering off the precipitate of
barium sulfate, and evaporating the solution until crystals appear. It can
also be prepared by zinc oxide, or zinc carbonate, in aqueous perchloric acid
and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
7.0 Low-Order Explosives

7.1 Acetone Peroxide:
Narrowing down a name for this compound is rather tricky. In the
literature is is commonly referred to as acetone peroxide because it is
typically a mixture of isomers. Other literature refers to it as
tricycloacetoneperoxide, triacetonetriperoxide, TATP, AP, TCAP, and
3,3,6,6,9,9-hexamethyl-1,2,4,5,7,8-hexoxonane. Many types of chemicals react
with air and light to form explosive peroxides, usually this is a bad thing
because their formation occurs without intent. A compound being distilled in
the lab may explode if peroxides have formed, this is why a small amount of
liquid is always left undistilled.
This particular formula is intriguing because of its simplicity to make
and the availability of the chemicals used. This simplicity has made it very
popular among fools. Instruction derived from the Big Book of Mischief, and
their loathsome breed, are lacking in detailed information that may determine
a continued success or failure at this procedure. An abundance of
misinformation has led to much confusion about acetone peroxide. The
information presented here is directly from the original scientific references
by the scientists who developed this explosive, not some "crap book" as listed
above. There are actually two isomers of acetone peroxide, the first is
tricyclo acetone peroxide, which is what will be made here, and the second is
dicycloacetone peroxide. Both of these compounds are very similar, but the
reaction seems to favor the tricyclo over the dicyclo at lower temperatures.
The tricyclo isomer is more stable and more powerful than the dicyclo, that is
why every effort is made to prepare the former. Both isomers will be made in
the reaction with the tricyclo being the principal product. There are also a
varity of other peroxides made in this synthesis; see the reaction scheme
below.
Acetone peroxide would have made a decent military explosive if not for
its instability. It can not be stressed enough how unstable and dangerous
acetone peroxide is. As instability goes this is among the most unstable of
other explosives here.
Acetone peroxide is formed by acid-catalyzed nucleophilic addition. That
means an acid helps the peroxide, a nucleophile, react with the acetone, a
ketone. A nucleophile is a "nucleus lover," or a chemical species that donates
electrons. A ketone is a substance that has the molecular formula R2C=O where
R is any carbon chain. There is some confusion as to which acid to use, the
useless internet books frequently cite hydrochloric acid as the acid to use.
The fact is, the acid is only a catalyst, it does not matter what acid is
used, as long as it is a strong acid. Only inorganic acids fit this criteria.
Since the original literature uses sulfuric acid, this lab uses sulfuric. You
may use whichever acid is the most economical, or available.
Acetone, hydrogen peroxide, and sulfuric acid, the chemicals used in this
lab, are all available over the counter. That is the real reason this
explosive is so popular, it is unfortunate that this explosive is so
dangerous. Since 30% hydrogen peroxide is hard to obtain, substituting 10
times the volume of commercially available 3% peroxide is acceptable, although
this will lower the yield a bit. It is also advisable to multiply the volume
of acid by a corresponding value.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl ether
hydrogen peroxide
sulfuric acid
distilled water
thermometer
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
eye dropper
graduated cylinder
separatory funnel
stirring rod/stirrer
To a 500-mL beaker add 50 mL of acetone, then stir in 30 mL of 30%

hydrogen peroxide. Place the beaker in a salt-ice bath and cool it to 5 C.
After cooling, slowly add 3 mL of 75% sulfuric acid drop by drop with an eye
dropper. Stir the mixture continuously while adding the acid, keep the
temperature between 5 C to 10 C, stop adding acid if the temperature gets to
high. It is very important that you moderate the reaction, high temperatures
will lower your yield and cause the formation of the less useful dicyclo
isomer. After adding all the acid, continue stirring for 5 minutes. Keep the
mixture in the bath for 1 to 3 hours, or even up to 24 hours. After sitting, a
white precipitate should have formed. Filter the mixture to collect the
crystals, then wash them with 300-500 mL of water. Allow the crystals to dry
before using, keep them damp if storing. For increased purity, add the
precipitate to ethyl ether and let it dissolve. Place the ethyl ether solution
in a separatory funnel and wash by shaking with three portions of cold water.
Add the ethyl ether solution to a beaker and heat it on a steam bath to
evaporate the ethyl ether. It should take about 3 hours to dry. You will need
a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer
for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
I would suggest making this explosive shortly before it is desired to use
it as it is never wise to keep unstable primary explosives around too long. It
can be stored rather safely under water for some time. If allowed to stand in
the open it will vaporize after some weeks. If stored in a sealed container it
may crystallize into the crevaces of the cap which could detonate from the
friction of opening. Mixing with RDX, PETN, or picric acid will improve the
stability of this explosive.
7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives):

Nitrogen triiodide, also called ammonium triiodide, is a very unstable
explosive that's not really practical due to its tremendous instability and
cost. When wet it is stable but when dry the touch of a feather can cause it
to detonate. Wet nitrogen triiodide should be spread out as much as possible
or numerous small piles made. When dry the nitrogen triiodide will not explode
from its own weight if spread out, a single large pile will.
The high cost of iodine, anywhere from $60 to $100 for a 500 g bottle, and
its rarity, make it impractical from an economic standpoint. Those useless
anarchist texts say iodine can be purchased in drug stores, it is sold in very
tiny amounts heavily diluted with alcohol. The drug dealers have made iodine a
restricted chemical, very few drug stores even carry it now, there are safer
alternatives. The simplicity in which this explosive can be made gives wanna
be punks an excuse to try. THIS EXPLOSIVE IS ONLY A CURIOSITY AND SHOULD NEVER
BE MADE EXCEPT FOR A CONTROLLED DEMONSTRATION AS ABOVE! Stories abound about
the dangers and ease of making nitrogen triiodide. There was a senior
undergraduate student (no not me) given full access to a lab who made some, it
exploded in a beaker showering him with glass. He was not wearing safety
goggles. By some miracle the glass embedded in his face did not rip his eyes
to shreds. Then there were the teenage hoodlums that stole some iodine from
their high school chem lab, made the nitrogen triiodide at home, and brought
it back to school. With a pop and puff of purple gas the teacher knew what it
was. A word of advise to them for next time: Leaving the instructions on top
of your desk in full view of teach will save you a lot of time scrubbing
iodine stains during your next suspension. It is best to leave it dry where
you want to detonate it ASAP.
CHEMICALS
ammonium hydroxide
iodine
water
APPARATUS
beaker
stirring rod
graduated cylinder
Nitrogen triiodide is formed when iodine atoms displace the hydrogen

atoms in ammonia NH3 + I = NI3. This reaction occurs when iodine crystals, I2
are soaked in excess ammonium hydroxide. To begin, select a small beaker or
even a disposable cup about 50-mL in capacity. This process may permanently
stain any container so I suggest the cup. Add 2 g of iodine crystals to the
beaker, crush them as much as possible with a stirring rod. Add 40 mL ammonium
hydroxide to the beaker. After 2 hours the reaction should be complete. Pour
the solution over a filter to collect the crystals, any excess can be rinsed
out of the beaker with water. Put the crystals where you want them immediately
because there only semblance of stability is when wet. Drying will take about
1 hour. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
7.3 FLASH POWDER:

Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is
very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and
slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or
detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with
a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about
$11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
Click here for info. on some of the dangers flash powder.
* For other flash powders, check out section-10.9 flash charges
7.4 BLACK POWDER:
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
potassium
nitrate (75 g)
clay grinding bowl

and clay grinder
or
or
sodium
nitrate (75 g)
wooden salad bowl

and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g)
plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g)
300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water
coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding

bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but
it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.
7.5 Yellow powder:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, post by The Silent Observer <silent1@ix.netcom.com.

It comes from a text of 'Samuel Guthrie' written in 1831. More about this
mixture can be found in Davis[10], page 30 and 31.
Comments: It is sometimes called "Fulminating powder". The mixture burns three
times quicker than common black powder.
Preparation: The compounds are sometimes molten together, which appears to be
a very dangerous operation.
Potassium nitrate................................3
Potassium carbonate...............................2
Sulfur............................................1
7.6 NITROCELLULOSE:
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas.
It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
cotton (cellulose)
two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated
nitric acid
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
blue litmus paper
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.
this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
Add to
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3

minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocellulose and prepare water to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES:

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
Oxodizer, % by weight
Fuel, % by weight
Speed #
Notes
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 33%
5
friction/
impact
sensitive
rather unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sugar 35%
5
fairly slow
charcoal 15%
burning;
unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 25%
8
extremely
magnesium or
unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
magnesium or
8
unstable
aluminum dust 33%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sodium nitrate 65%
magnesium dust 30%
?
unpredictable
sulfur 5%
burn rate
______________________________________________________________________________
__
glycerine 40%
delay before
ignition
depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
upon grain size
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 33%
5
unstable
______________________________________________________________________________
__
potassium permangenate 60%
sulfur 20%
5
unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sugar 50%
3
?
______________________________________________________________________________
__
charcoal 15%
7
this is
sulfur 10%
black powder!
______________________________________________________________________________
__
powdered iron
1
burns very hot
or
(thermite)
magnesium 40%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
phosphorus
8
used to make
sesquisulfide 25%
strike-anywhere
matches
______________________________________________________________________________
__
ammonium perchlorate 70%
aluminum dust 30%
6
solid fuel for
+ small amount of
space shuttle
iron oxide
______________________________________________________________________________
__
magnesium or
10
flash powder
aluminum dust 33%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
magnesium or
8
alternate
aluminum dust 20%
flash powder
sulfur 20%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
barium nitrate 30%
aluminum dust 30%
9
alternate
flash powder
______________________________________________________________________________
__
barium peroxide 90%
magnesium dust 5%
10
alternate
aluminum dust 5%
flash powder
______________________________________________________________________________
__
sulfur 25%
8
slightly
magnesium or
unstable
aluminum dust 25%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
red phosphorus 27%
7
very
calcium carbonate 3%
sulfur 3%
unstable!
impact
sensitive
_____________________________________________________________________________
___
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25%
7
unstable;
aluminum or
ignites if
magnesium dust 25%
it gets wet!
______________________________________________________________________________
__
charcoal dust 15%
6
unstable
sulfur 10%
______________________________________________________________________________
__
NOTE:
Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.
7.8 PERCHLORATES:
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or
sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be
perchlorated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials
tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or
potassium hydroxide are ideal. See other percholates section in the chemicals
chapter.
8.0 High-order explosives:

Many of the explosives in this chapter are not mentioned in the
classification chart(section 3.1). These high-order explosives are extremely
powerful and are not to be under estimated. Almost any of these explosives
can be used to level a building, and can turn a car into thousands of small
pieces. And needless to say, if explosion happens next to you, youll most
likely die.
If you want to make HE's(high explosives), I STRONGLY suggest you get
firmly grounded in the use of LE's first, and read as much as you can (The
Explosives & Weapons Forum is a good place to look) first. Primary explosives
can be VERY dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced/foolish person, and
their manufacture and use is not to be taken lightly. Secondary explosives are
in most ways safer, but with potentially more dangerous synthesis procedures
(runaway reactions, NO2 gas etc).
8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives:

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been
used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and
mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. (*see section 6.21 for
the procedure on making potassium chlorate)
Materials:
-Potassium Chlorate
-Petroliom Jelly(Vaseline)
-Wax
-White Gasoline
Apparatus:
-plasic bowl
melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline
(camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.
Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results
in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly
decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade
explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the
processes in this article.
8.2 Lead Azide:

Lead azide is a common primary explosive used as a standard to compare
sensitivity among other primary explosives. Making lead azide is not a simple
task, this laboratory uses advanced techniques and equipment. Getting the
chemicals will be another task. Sodium azide is an unstable, therefore
regulated, material nearly impossible to get, it will need to be synthesized.
Lead azide is sensitive to heat, shock and friction. The addition of dextrin
to this lab prevents the formation of large crystals which can be very
dangerous.
CHEMICALS
dextrin
lead nitrate
sodium azide
sodium hydroxide
water
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
Buchner funnel
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
separatory funnel
stirring rod
thermometer
Dissolve 2.33 g of sodium azide and 0.058 g of sodium hydroxide in 70 mL

of water by shaking in a separatory funnel. This is solution A. Dissolve 6.9 g
of lead nitrate and 0.35 g of dextrin in 90 mL water in a 250-mL beaker, add 1
or 2 drops of 10% sodium hydroxide to bring the pH to about 5. This is
solution B. Heat solution B to 60-65 on a water bath and agitate it with a
plastic or hardwood stirring rod. The stirring should be as efficient as
possible to prevent the formation of large crystals. Stirring, while vigorous,
should not produce any spattering of the mixture and the stirring should not
rub against the walls of the beaker. The friction might cause some crystals to
explode. Add solution A dropwise to solution B while stirring. The addition
should take about 10 minutes. Remove the beaker from the water bath and
continue stirring the mixture in the beaker while cooling to room temperature,
this will take about 1 hour. Allow the precipitate of lead azide to settle and
pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals. Use suction
filtration with a Buchner funnel if possible. Add 150 mL of water to the
crystals to wash them, add the water in 50 mL increments. Dry the sample for
8-15 hours or longer, but no more than 24, at 65 C. The lead azide should
form small spherical crystals that are opaque in color. The yield should be
around 5 g. Store the lead azide moist in a rubber stoppered plastic bottle if
you must. If you do not have a separatory funnel for solution A, use a beaker
to prepare the solution and a pipet or buret to to add it to solution B. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to
8.3 Lead Styphnate:

Lead styphnate, also called lead trinitroresorcinate, is an unstable
primary explosive that resists shock but will detonate readily from heat or
static. It is usually mixed with lead azide to improve its ability to detonate
from flame or electric ignition. The preparation of lead styphnate is easy,
but the chemicals used in its manufacture are of the kind only a lab would
use. Lead acetate and nitric acid can be obtained but magnesium styphnate will
be nearly impossible. Magnesium styphnate is derived from styphnic acid, or
2,4,6-trinitroresorcinol. Trinitro anything usually raises some danger flags,
and dangerous chemicals are forbidden. Until I locate the method of
preparation for styphnic acid, you will have to find some yourself.
CHEMICALS
lead acetate
APPARATUS
small beaker
magnesium styphnate
nitric acid
water
graduated cylinder
stirring rod
thermometer
Lead styphnate is prepared by adding a magnesium styphnate solution to

lead acetate solution in a small beaker while stirring, and keeping the
temperature at 70 C. A precipitate will form, keep stirring for 15 minutes.
After this time is up, add dilute nitric acid while stirring and cooling to 30
C with a salt-ice bath, keep stirring until this temperature is reached.
Collect the crystals on filter paper, wash with water, and allow them to dry
in the open. The crystals should be reddish brown or orange in color.
Notice the lack of quantities of chemicals. The source I obtained this
information from is reliable but sketchy. I suggest using 10 g of lead acetate
in 30 mL of water, and the same for magnesium styphnate, to make the
solutions. Add 10 mL of concentrated nitric acid to 70 mL of water for the
dilute acid. Keep in mind the danger these crystals may pose, keep the dried
crystals away from heat, friction, and shock. Store the crystals under water
if they are not going to be used immediately. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod for mixing, and a thermometer
to monitor the temperature.
8.4 Mercury Fulminate:

Mercury fulminate is an unstable primary explosive compound. It was first
prepared in the late seventeenth century by Johann Kunckel von Lwenstern by a
procedure very similar to the modern method presented here. Lwenstern
detailed mercury fulminate synthesis in his posthumously written Laboratorium
Chymicum, he used aqua fortis, spiritum vini, and in fimum equinum. That last
one is horse manure if you wanted to know. Mercury fulminate was first
patented by Alfred Nobel in 1867 for blasting caps. It is not used today for
that purpose because of more stable explosives from modern chemistry. Its
manufacture is not complicated nor the chemicals in its makeup rare. Mercury
can be extracted from a variety of products but it is very expensive. Only a
chemical supply company could provide mercury in useful quantities. This lab
produces nitrogen dioxide gas as a byproduct, this is a heavy red colored gas
that is extremely toxic. The gas will turn moisture in your lungs to nitric
acid and may cause fabric to ignite! This lab should be done outside or in a
fume hood if possible.
CHEMICALS
acetic acid
ammonium hydroxide
ethyl alcohol
mercury
nitric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
desiccator
100mL Erlenmeyer flask
graduated cylinder
In a 100mL Erlenmeyer flask, measure out 35 mL of 70% nitric acid, then

add 5 g of mercury metal. This mixture should be left alone without shaking or
stirring until all the mercury dissolves. Toxic gas will be produced. Keep the
flask in a well ventilated area, or stopper the flask and lead a length of
rubber tubing into water to safely dissolve the fumes. In a 500-mL beaker,
place 50 mL of 90% ethyl alcohol, then add the acid-mercury mix in a well
ventilated area. The temperature of the mixture will rise, a vigorous reaction
will commence, white fumes will be released, and crystals of mercury fulminate
should begin to precipitate. Red fumes of nitrogen dioxide will appear as the
precipitation becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction
moderates. After about 20 minutes the reaction should be over. Add water to
the beaker and carefully decant off most of the water without losing any
crystals. Add water and decant several times until the wash water is no longer
acid to litmus. Finally, pour the neutral solution over a filter to collect
the grayish-yellow crystals of mercury fulminate. The product may be purified
by dissolving in strong ammonium hydroxide, filtering, and re-precipitating by
the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed
with cold water, and stored in a container filled with water. Dry in a
desiccator immediately before use. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids.
8.5 Tetracene:
1-guanyl-4-nitrosoaminoguanyltetrazene, more conveniently called
tetracene, was first prepared back in 1910 by two scientists named Hoffmann
and Roth. It is a colorless pale yellow, fluffy material with slight
hygroscopic properties.
It is stable at normal temperatures when wet or dry, but decomposes in
boiling water. Tetracene is sensitive to friction, shock, and flame. Its
brisiance is greatest when it has not been compacted, so this compound can
easily become dead-pressed. Tetracene is not suited for blasting caps or alone
as an explosive since it does not detonate itself very efficiently. It is best
suited for booster charges or in blasting caps mixed with other explosives. It
can only achieve is full explosive potential if detonated by another explosive
charge. The only problem I have noted with this lab is the aminoguanidine
bicarbonate used as the main ingredient. I have found no literature whatsoever
to suggest that this substance exists although it is probably a rare analog of
aminoguanidine reacted with a bicarbonate substance, and given a non IUPAC
name.
CHEMICALS
acetic acid
aminoguanidine bicarbonate
sodium nitrite
water
APPARATUS
3-liter Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 34 g of aminoguanidine bicarbonate and 12.5 mL of

glacial acetic acid with 2500 mL of water in a 3-liter Florence flask. Gently
warm the flask on a steam bath and shake periodically until everything is
completely dissolved into solution. The solution should be filtered to remove
any impurities that may have not dissolved, then cooled to 30 C by running
cold water from the faucet over the flask. It is necessary to filter the
solution if there are impurities present. Add 27.6 g of sodium nitrite to the
solution while swirling to dissolve it. Set the flask aside at room
temperature for 3 or 4 hours then shake it vigorously to start precipitation
of the product. Let the flask stand for another 20 hours. After standing,
decant as much of the solution off as possible and drown the remaining
crystals with water. Decant and drown with water several more times to wash
the crystals. Filter the washed crystals to collect them and thoroughly wash
again with water. Dry the product at room temperature and store in a sealed
glass container to keep out the moisture. You will need a graduated cylinder
for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.6 AMATOL:
Materials:
-ammonium nitrate
-TNT
Description:
Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of
ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than
that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20%
TNT, to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting
charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form
dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed
in containers of such metals.
8.7 PETN:
PETN is an acronym for pentaerythritol tetranitrate, other names include
1,3-propanediol; 2,2-[bis-(nitroxy)methyl]-dinitrate; 2,2bis[(nitrooxy)methyl]-1,3-propanediol (ester); 2,2-bishydroxymethyl-1,3propanediol tetranitrate; nitropentaerythritol; niperyt; Lentrat; Hasethrol;
Peritrate; Mycardol; Nitropenton; Pentral 80; Dilcoran-80; Terpate; Perityl;
Pentritol; Pentanitrine; Prevangor; Subicard; Pentryate; Vasodiatol; NeoCorovas; Pentafin; Quintrate; Pergitral; Metranil; Cardiacap; Angitet;
dinitrate penta; niperyth; penthrit; penthrite; pentrit; nitropenta; NP; and
TEN.
While PETN can not be detonated by flame or fuse, it only burns in the
open air, it is very easily detonated by shock. A blow from a hammer, dropping
it on the floor, and using even a weak detonator will cause detonation. PETN
was first prepared in 1894 by the German company Rneinisch Westfalalische
Sprengstoff AG. PETN is used as the active ingredient in detonating cord,
detonating cord is like a fuse that burns as fast as electricity flows (as
fast as sound anyway, but that is only an analogy). The cord can slice a small
tree in half from the heat, it was wrapped around prisoners of war when no
shackles were handy. Anybody gets out of line... Ouch. PETN has also found
uses in blasting caps, grenade filler, as a sometime replacement for RDX,
mixed with plastics as a booster charge for insensitive explosives, and in
medicine as a vasodilator. Another nifty use for it is in sheet explosive,
like bed sheets, it can be used to harden and shape metals, wrap around
objects and all sorts of wonderful things. PETN is a rather common and stable
high explosive that is not very difficult to prepare. This lab will require
white nitric acid which you can make and pentaerythritol, also called
tetramethylol methane and 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol.
Pentaerythritol may have its uses in the paint industry but no use in the
hands of the public. I have a method of synthesizing it, but it is vague. I

will look for a better procedure.
CHEMICALS
acetone
nitric acid
pentaerythritol
sodium carbonate
water
APPARATUS
600-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
In a 600-mL beaker, add 400 mL of white nitric acid and cool to below 5C
in a salt-ice bath. White nitric acid is made by adding a small amount of urea
to fuming nitric acid then blowing dry air into the acid until it is
colorless. 100 g of finely ground pentaerythritol is slowly added to the acid
while stirring, keeping the temperature below 5C. After all of the
pentaerythritol has been added, the stirring and cooling are continued for 15
minutes. The mixture is then dumped in about 3 L of ice water. The crude
product that should have formed is filtered to collect it, washed with water,
and submerged in 1 L of hot 0.5% sodium carbonate solution for 1 hour. The
crystals are again collected on a filter, washed with water, and allowed to
dry. These washings are important to remove all traces of acid. To obtain a
pure product, dissolve the crystals in hot acetone, allow to cool, then add an
equal volume of water as you have of acetone. Filter to collect the crystals,
wash with water, and allow 24 hours to dry. You will need a graduated cylinder
8.8 RDX:
RDX, or cyclonite, is a very insensitive high explosive compound. The
actual chemical name is cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine, although the chemical
names hexahydro-1,3,5-trinitro-1,3,5-triazine; Hexogen;
trimethylenetrinitramine; sym-trimethylenetrinitramine ;Hexolite; 1,3,5trinitrohexahydro-p-triazine; 1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-s-triazine;
cyclotrimrthylene-trinitramine; 1,3,5-triaza-1,3,5-trinitrocyclohexane;
trinitrohexahydrotriazine; and T4 are also used.
RDX itself stands for Royal Demolition Explosive and comes from Great
Britain, cyclonite is the American usage, Hexogen is for Germans, and T4 is
Italian. RDX is a very powerful military explosive that can be stored for long
periods of time and handled safely. RDX is usually mixed with other explosives
and plasticizers to make a variety of useful compositions for military and
civilian use, C-4 and Semtex are two such compounds. It seems so much RDX is
made that most scientific books give industrial schematics for thousands of
pounds instead of lab preparations. The laboratory methods here are not as
efficient as in industry, but are fine. The first method uses methenamine, or
hexamethylenetetramine, which can be purchased as heating tablets or
synthesized in the lab. The second makes use of acetic anhydride, forbidden by
the DEA, but it can be synthesized as well.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
acetone
ammonium nitrate
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
methenamine
nitric acid
thermometer
paraformaldehyde
sodium bicarbonate
water
Put 335 mL of 100% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker, cool the acid to below
30 C by setting the beaker in a salt-ice bath. The nitric acid must be as
concentrated as possible, it must also be free of nitrogen oxides. Slowly add
75 g of methenamine in small portions to the acid while stirring. The
temperature must be kept between 20 C to 30 C during the addition. Once all
of the methenamine has dissolved, slowly heat it to 55 C while stirring, hold
it to between 50-55 C for 5 minutes, keep stirring. Now cool the mix to 20 C
then let it sit for 15 minutes. After standing, it is gradually diluted with
three or four times its volume of cool water, this should precipitate the RDX
from solution. Depending on how the gods of chemistry feel about your reaction
it may take from minutes to hours to fully precipitate all of the RDX. Decant
most of the liquid then add 1 L of 5% sodium bicarbonate solution to
neutralize the remaining acid. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals of
RDX that should have formed. Wash them with cold water, then with hot 5%
sodium bicarbonate solution, and again with water. The RDX can be dried at
room temperature or in an oven. Further purification can be accomplished by
recrystallizing from acetone. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
The second procedure is as follows: Place 260 mL acetic anhydride in a
1000-mL beaker and add 105 g powdered ammonium nitrate while stirring. Heat
the beaker to 90 C and remove the source of heat. Very slowly add 38 g of
paraformaldehyde to the beaker, this addition will release toxic and flammable
fumes, use a fume hood or go to an open area. After the addition, add the
contents of the beaker to twice its volume of cold water to precipitate
crystals of RDX. Filter the solution to collect the crystals and wash them
with cold water then boiling water. The RDX can be purified by dissolving in
the minimum amount of acetone then diluting with cold water. Filter the
crystals to collect them and allow to dry in the open air.

This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive
that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the 'C' explosive of choice
for home manufacture due to its ease of manufacture and the more easily
obtained compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks.
The explosive was standardized and adopted in the
following composition:
R. D. X.
Heavy Mineral Oil
Lecithin
88.3 %
11.1 %
0.6 %
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of

large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the
explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power. It is relatively non -
toxic except if ingested and is plastic from 0-40 deg. C.. Above 40 deg., the
explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive
properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 deg. C., it becomes brittle and
its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Weighing all pros and cons, this
is the explosive of choice for the kitchen explosives factory due to the
simple manufacture of the plastique compound.
Manufacturing this explosive can be done in two ways. The first is to
dissolve the 11.1 % plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.
D. X. and then allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of
all gasoline. All percentages are by weight.
The second method is the fairly simple kneading of the plasticizing
compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive
should be stored in a cool dry place. If properly made, the plastique should
be very stable in storage, even if stored at elevated temperatures for long
periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive as compared to other
millitary explosives. With this explosive, as mentioned earlier, a booster
will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 deg. C.. The detonation
velocity of this explosive should be around 7900 M/sec..

Composition C-2 was developed due to the undesirable
aspects of composition 'C'. lt was formerly used by the United States armed
forces, but has been replaced by C-3 and C-4. lt's composition is much the
same as C-3 and it's manufacture is thc safe also.
I won't go into much detail on this explosive because of its highly
undesirable traits. lt is harder to make than C-4 and is toxic to handle. lt
also is unstable in storage and is a poor choice for home explosives
manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either C-4 or C-3.
But for those of you that are interested, I will give the composition of this
explosive anyway. It is manufactured in
a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in
incorporation of C-3. Its composition is as follows:
R.D.X.
80 %
(Equal parts of thc following:)

Mononitrotolulene
Dinitrotolulene
T.N.T. guncotton
Dimethylformide
20 %

This explosive was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of
C-2. It was standardized and adopted by the military as the following
composition:
R. D. X.
77 %
Mononitrotolulene
16 %
Dinitrotolulene
5 %
Tetryl
1 %
Nitrocellose (guncotton) 1 %
C-3 is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam
jacketed
melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring
attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 deg. C. and the stirrer is
activated. Water wet R.D.X.
is added to the plasticizing agent and the stirring is continued until a
uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat
source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room
temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T.. Storage at
65 deg. C. for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair its
explosive properties. C-3 is 133% as good as an explosive as is T.N.T.. The
major drawback of C-3 is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of it's
weight although the explosive's detonation properties are not affected. Water
does not affect the explosive's
performance. It therefore is very good for U.D.T. uses and would be a good
choice for these applications. When stored at 77 deg. C., considerable
extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 deg. C. and is hard to
detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduly toxic, it
should be handled with utmost care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which
are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6
blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has
a great blast effect and was and still is available is standard demolition
blocks. It's detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M / sec..

C-4 was developed because of the hardening and toxicity that made C-3
unreliable and dangerous due to the dinitrotolulene plastisizer. The following
composition is the standardized plastique explosive as adopted by the armed
forces:
R.D.X.
Polyisobutylene
Motor Oil
Di-(2-ethylhexy)sebecate
91.0 %
2.1 %
1.6 %
5.3 %
The last three ingredients are dissolved in unleaded gasoline. The

R.D.X. explosive base is then added to the gasoline-plasticizer and the
resultant mass in allowed to evaporate until the gasoline is completely gone
(this can be done quickly and efficiently under a vacuum).
The final product should be dirty white to light brown in color. It
should have no odor and have a density of 1.59 gm/cc. It does not harden at
-57 deg. C. and does not undergo extrudation at 77 deg. C.. It can be reliably
detonated with a #6 blasting cap.
The bristance of this explosive (ability to do work or fragment
ordinance) is 120% greater than T.N.T.. C-4 is the best plastique explosive
available in the world and probably will remain so for quite some time. This
is the #1 demolition explosive in the world and if you've never seen this
stuff used it is absolutely amazing. The detonation velocity of C-4 is 8100

M/sec..
8.13 Ammonium Picrate:

Ammonium picrate, also called 2,4,6-trinitrophenol ammonium salt, ammonium
trinitrophenolate, Dunnite, or Explosive D, is prepared in much the same way
as nitrogen triiodide. Ammonium picrate was first prepared in 1841 by a
scientist named Marchand. It was not used until 1869 when it was mixed with
potassium nitrate as a propellent for rifles. Alfred Nobel patented it in 1888
for Dynamites. The US Army picked it up in 1901, and the Navy floated it in
1907. It saw peak production during WWII but has since fallen victim to
progress in chemistry. This explosive is relatively stable, therefore safer to
prepare and handle. The only real problem is getting ahold of picric acid
which is a regulated explosive chemical. Very few laboratories still use life
threatening carcinogens like benzene or explosives like picric acid. That
means even if you have the authorization to purchase chemicals you will have a
hard time getting any. Not to worry, I have included the preparation of picric
acid. Benzene is another matter unfortunately.
CHEMICALS
ammonium hydroxide
picric acid
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
hotplate
2,4,6-Trinitrophenol ammonium salt is formed when the ammonium ion, NH4+,

attaches itself to the phenol group, OH, of picric acid. I suppose the H from
OH is stripped away making O- that balances the positive ammonium ion. To
make, dissolve picric acid in excess ammonium hydroxide. Add 1 g of picric
acid to a 250-mL beaker then add 100 mL of hot concentrated ammonium
hydroxide. Once the picric acid has dissolved, some will precipitate out of
solution upon cooling. The liquid must be evaporated to fully precipitate the
crystals. Evaporation can be accelerated by heating the solution on a hotplate
or in a heated pan of water. More ammonium picrate can be prepared at once by
using the same 1:100 ratio of grams picric acid to milliliters ammonium
hydroxide. You will need a graduated cylinder to measure the liquid.
The pure substance occurs in two forms, a stable form which is bright
yellow and a less stable form which is bright red. The crystals which separate
here are the red form. The yellow form can be procured by recrystallizing the
red several times from water. The red form will eventually change into the
yellow form if stored as a concentrated solution. Keep this material as dry as
possible.
8.14 HMX:
HMX is a very powerful military explosive with similar properties to RDX,
the other great military explosive with which it is often mixed. HMX is
technically called octahydro-1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazocine, other
names include 1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazacyclooctane;

cyclotetramethylene tetranitramine; and octogen. HMX is itself an acronym for
either High velocity Military eXplosive, or Her Majesties eXplosive depending
on what country you are in. HMX is very stable, it requires a powerful
detonator or booster charge to detonate. It was first developed during WWII in
the never ending search for more powerful bombs.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic acid
500/1000-mL beaker
acetic anhydride
ammonium nitrate
graduated cylinder
methenamine
nitric acid
thermometer
paraformaldehyde
water
Prepare a solution of 748 mL of glacial acetic acid, 12 mL of acetic
anhydride, and 17 g of paraformaldehyde, keep this solution at 44 C while
mixing. Prepare a second solution of 217.6 g of ammonium nitrate and 154.6 mL
of 99% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker. Prepare a third solution of 101 g of
methenamine, 157 mL of glacial acetic acid, and 296 mL of acetic anhydride in
a 1000-mL beaker. Combine the third solution with 112.5 mL of the second
solution. Add this combined solution to the first solution over a 15 minute
period while stirring rapidly. After the addition, continue stirring for an
additional 15 minutes. Next, carefully add 296 mL of acetic anhydride, then
carefully add the remainder of the second solution, then add another 148 mL of
acetic anhydride, all while stirring. Continue the stirring for 1 hour more.
After stirring, add 350 mL of hot water and reflux the whole works for 30
minutes. After this time, cool the liquid down to 20 C by adding ice. Decant
off as much of the liquid from the precipitate as possible and drown the
remaining crystals with cold water. Filter to collect the crystals of HMX and
wash them with three portions of cold water, allow to dry. The yield is about
95%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod
or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Owing to the large volume of reactants in this lab, in excess of 2.5 L,
it is necessary to use a 5-L flask, unfortunately this is beyond most
laboratories, and especially the home chemist. This reaction can be carried
out in a glass gallon jug or similar large capacity glass container. The
refluxing step can be done in portions using a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence
flask.
8.15 Nitrated Petroleum:
This explosive procedure intrigues me because what chemical can be more
readably available than gasoline, or for that matter motor oil, kerosine, and
diesel. The nitration of petroleum generally produces either brown noncrystalline solids or liquid products that are explosive. The first attempts
to nitrate petroleum were made in Russia at the end of the 19th century by one
Dr. Konovaloff. Dilute nitric acid under pressure was used to nitrate the
product, obtaining very low yields. In 1902 a nitration method patented by
Edeleanu and Filti used mixed nitric-sulfuric acids, unfortunately for them no
practical application of their patent was found. Others tried using different
kinds of petroleum like A.S. Flexer, Freund, and Kharichkov to name a few. Not
that it matters who they are, but I like to know. You may experiment yourself
on everything from crude oil to that stuff you get at the hardware store for
oil lamps. Things are screwed up nowadays, all of the good chemical additives
that make petroleum nitrateable seem to be getting legislated by the
government (only the democrat oppressors). This lab may have worked for
scientists a hundred years ago, but it may not work for you today.
CHEMICALS
gasoline
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Standard gasoline, get the cheap stuff and not gasahol (gas/ethyl alcohol
mix) if you can avoid it, is added gradually to a mixture of 15 parts 100%
sulfuric acid and 3 parts 100% nitric acid in a large beaker. Add 1 part of
gasoline per 18 parts of mixed acid. The reaction temperature should be
somewhat cool, never let the temperature rise above 80 C. A temperature below
20 C should do, you can regulate this with a salt-ice bath. When the
nitration is completed, the mixture is diluted with a large quantity of cold
water to precipitate the product. The un-nitrated oil will float to the top of
the acid-water solution. Collect the precipitate on a filter and wash with
water, yield will be 30% to 90% depending on the crude oil used to manufacture
the gasoline. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a
8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride:

Nitrogen trichloride, also called nitrogen chloride, agene, chlorine
nitride, trichloramine, trichlorine nitride, chloride of azode, or
Stickstofftrichlorid, is an unstable primary explosive compound. Its
preparation is not complicated and the chemicals used are simple, cheap, and
readily obtainable. You could pump the stuff out by the liter if it was not so
sensitive. Nitrogen trichloride will explode if heated, exposed to sunlight,
or mixed with organic compounds. It does not like to be friendly around many
other chemicals, shock, sparks, and it will explode if frozen and thawed. The
explosive properties were first reported in the 18th century by Sir H. Davy,
he had this to say: "The fulminating oil which you mentioned roused my
curiosity and nearly deprived me of an eye. After some months of confinement I
am again well." Ouch, that must have hurt.
CHEMICALS
ammonium nitrate
chlorine
water
APPARATUS
bubbler
graduated cylinder
medicine dropper
Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 70 mL water in a 200-mL Erlenmeyer

flask. Prepare a chlorine generator as described in the synthesis section.
Place a tube connected to the generator at the bottom of the flask so the
chlorine gas can bubble into the liquid, a bubbler will help a lot with the
reaction. Gently heat the flask to start the reaction while adding chlorine
gas. An oily yellow liquid will begin to appear on the bottom of the flask,
that is the nitrogen trichloride. Stop heating the flask when the drops
appear. After 20 to 30 minutes the reaction should be complete. Use a medicine
dropper to extract the nitrogen trichloride from the flask, transfer it to a
small test tube and remove any water accidently sucked up with it. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids. This explosive will decompose
within 24 hours of its preparation.
8.17 Tetryl:
Tetryl has a variety of names including nitramine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6tetranitrobenzenamine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitroaniline;
picrylmethylnitramine; picrylnitromethylamine; 2,4,6trinitrophenylmethylnitramine; tetralite; and pyronite.
Tetryl is a stable explosive capable of being handled reasonably safe,
yet it is still sensitive enough to be used in blasting caps or booster
charges. It was first developed in 1889 by the scientists Michler and Meyer
and studied in some detail thereafter. It can be heated either in the open or
in solvents causing mere decomposition, usually to picric acid. Tetryl is more
powerful then even TNT, although the lesser stability compared to TNT makes it
less attractive to the military. You must keep tetryl in the dark and away
from the skin, it will stain skin and hair yellow as well as cause itching or
worse.
CHEMICALS
benzene
N,N-dimethylaniline
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
magnetic stirrer
separatory funnel
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 20 mL of N,N-dimethylaniline and 130 mL of 99-100%

sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker placed in a salt-ice bath. Keep the
temperature below 25 C while mixing this solution. Pour the solution into a
separatory funnel and slowly add it, drop by drop, to a 500-mL Erlenmeyer
flask containing 160 mL of 80% nitric acid that has been previously heated to
55-60 C. During the addition, stir continually with a magnetic stirrer, and
maintain the temperature between 65-70 C. The addition should require about 1
hour. After the addition, continue stirring and maintain the temperature at
65-70 C for an additional hour. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature
and the crystals of tetryl to precipitate. Decant as much of the acid as
possible and drown the remaining crystals with water. Filter to collect the
crystals and wash thoroughly with water to remove traces of acid. Add the
washed crystals to a beaker of 240 mL of water and boil for 1 hour,
continually add water to replace any that boils away, maintaining a constant
volume. Again filter to collect the tetryl, add the crystals to a beaker and
add enough water to cover the surface, grind these crystals to as fine a paste
as possible. Add water equal to twelve times the weight of the crystals and
boil for 12 hours. Repeat this with a fresh batch of water and boil for
another 4 hours. Filter to collect the crystals and allow them to dry. After
drying, add just enough benzene to dissolve the crystals then filter to remove
any undissolved impurities. Allow the benzene to evaporate then recrystallize

the tetryl residue from ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.18 Trinitrobenzene(TNB):
1,3,5-trinitrobenzene, also known as sym-trinitrobenzene; strinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzeen; trinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzol; benzite;
Rcra waste number U234; or just TNB, is a stable high explosive compound with
slightly greater explosive force than TNT. There are two other isomers of
trinitrobenzene, namely 1,2,4- and 1,2,3- , but they are less stable and
harder to form.
Trinitrobenzene is very poisonous, causing severe skin irritation, so it
is best to use every precaution when handling it. The good qualities of
trinitrobenzene are its high stability, great explosive power, and low
sensitivity to friction and impact. On the down side, this procedure is not
exactly an economical choice since it uses perfectly good TNT as the main
ingredient.
This procedure is a variant of the original that dates back to 1893 when
the German scientists Tiemann, Claus, and Becker observed that trinitrotoluene
can be oxidized with nitric acid to trinitrobenzoic acid, and the latter being
readily decarboxylated to form sym-trinitrobenzene:
This lab substitutes sulfuric acid and a chromium compound for nitric
acid, the reaction is the same either way. There are other methods of forming
TNB but this procedure is the easiest and has the highest yield.
CHEMICALS
sodium dichromate
sulfuric acid
trinitrotoluene
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
small beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a mixture of 30 g of purified trinitrotoluene and 300 mL of 95100% sulfuric acid in a tall 500-mL beaker. Slowly add, with stirring,
powdered sodium dichromate in small portions, do not allow any lumps to form
or powder to rise to the surface. When the temperature of the mixture reaches
40 C, place the baker into a cold water bath. Continue adding dichromate,
while stirring, until a total of 45 g has been added, maintain the temperature
between 40-50 C at all times. After the addition, continue stirring and
maintaining the temperature between 40-50 C for 2 hours. After this time,
allow the mixture to cool undisturbed to room temperature over a 12 hour
period. Crystals of trinitrobenzoic acid should have formed. Decant off as
much of the acidic liquid as possible, then drown the crystals in water.
Filter the crystals to collect them, wash with cold water, then transfer them
to a small beaker. Add just enough 50 C water to dissolve the crystals.
Filter this solution hot to remove any undissolved impurities, then boil it
until no more crystals precipitate. Allow the solution to cool, filter to
collect the crystals, then wash them with water. These should be colorless to
greenish yellow crystals of trinitrobenzene. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing,
8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT):
2,4,6-trinitrotoluene, or just TNT, is the oft used military and
industrial explosive that may be the among the best recognized explosive
around. Other names for TNT include: trinitrotoluol; sym-trinitrotoluene; atrinitrotoluol; 2-methyl-1,3,5-trinitrobenzene; entsufon; 1-methyl-2,4,6trinitrobenzene; methyltrinitrobenzene; tolite; trilit; s-trinitrotoluene; strinitrotoluol; trotyl; sym-trinitrotoluol; alpha-trinitrotoluol; tolite;
triton; tritol; trilite; tri; tutol; trinol; fllpulver 1902; Fp02; tritolo;
trillit; tolita; tol; and trotil.
TNT was first synthesized in 1863 by a scientist named Wilbrand who
treated toluene with sulfuric and nitric acid at near boiling temperatures.
Although there are several isomers of trinitrotoluene, only the 2,4,6- isomer
is of importance. Pure TNT is in the form of small columns or needles and is
insoluble in water. It is quite stable, being meltable ,or able to act like a
plastic at around 50 C. TNT can even be boiled although the experiments did
this under reduced pressure (50mm Hg) to lower the boiling point to around 245
C. The normal detonation temperature is 333 C, the calculated boiling point
at normal atmospheric pressure is 345 C, so don't do it. Some experiments
have determined that the presence of foreign material like 1.9% of Fe2O3 will
lower the amount of time it takes for TNT to explode once it reaches its
critical temperature, or 295 C, the temperature at which decomposition
begins. Also, mixing pure sulfur with TNT will lower the initiation
temperature and increase the explosive power. For example, pure TNT explodes
at 333 C, 5% sulfur explodes at 304 C, 10% sulfur at 294 C, 20% sulfur at
284 C, and 30% sulfur at 275 C. The increase in explosive power is gained
through the addition of 5-10% sulfur. Because the stability of TNT is so
great, it is harder to detonate it, the sensitivity increases somewhat above
80 C, but is still rather low even when molten. A powerful blasting cap, or
booster charge, will be needed to detonate TNT. This lab is carried out in
three separate operations, forming mononitrotoluene, then dinitrotoluene, and
finally trinitrotoluene.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ethyl alcohol 100/500/600-mL beaker
nitric acid
Buchner funnel
sodium bisulfite
graduated cylinder
sulfuric acid pipet/buret
toluene
separatory funnel
water
thermometer
Prepare a nitrating solution of 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 105 mL of
75% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a salt-ice bath. Mix the acids very
slowly to avoid the generation of too much heat. Allow the mixture to cool to
room temperature. The acid mixture is slowly added dropwise, with a pipet or
buret, to 115 mL of toluene in a 600-mL beaker while stirring rapidly.
Maintain the temperature of the beaker during the addition at 30-40 C by
using either a cold water or salt-ice bath. The addition should require 60-90
minutes. After the addition, continue stirring for 30 minutes without any
cooling, then let the mixture stand for 8-12 hours in a separatory funnel. The
lower layer will be spent acid and the upper layer should be mononitrotoluene,
drain the lower layer and keep the upper layer.
Dissolve one-half of the previously prepared mononitrotoluene and 60 mL

of 95% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a cold water bath. Prepare a
nitrating solution of 30 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 36.5 mL of 95% nitric
acid in a 100-mL beaker. Preheat the beaker of mononitrotoluene to 50 &Deg;C.
Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the beaker of mononitrotoluene, with a
pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of
addition to keep the temperature of the reaction between 90-100 C. The
addition will require about 1 hour. After the addition, continue stirring and
maintaining the temperature at 90-100 C for 2 hours. If the beaker is allowed
to stand, a layer of dinitrotoluene will separate, it is not necessary to
separate the dinitrotoluene from the acid in this step.
While stirring the beaker of dinitrotoluene, heated to 90 C, slowly add
80 mL of 100% fuming sulfuric acid, containing about 15% SO3, by pouring from
a beaker. Prepare a nitrating solution of 40 mL of 100% sulfuric acid, with
15% SO3, and 50 mL of 99% nitric acid. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to
the beaker of dinitrotoluene, with a pipet or buret, drop by drop while
stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of addition to keep the temperature of the
reaction between 100-115 C. It may become necessary to heat the beaker after
three-quarters of the acid has been added in order to sustain the 100-115 C
temperature. The addition will require about 90-120 minutes. Maintain the
stirring and temperature at 100-115 C for 2 hours after the addition is
complete. Allow the beaker to sit undisturbed for 8-12 hours, it should form a
solid mass of trinitrotoluene crystals. Pour the contents of the beaker over a
Buchner funnel without any filter paper to collect the bulk of the crystals,
save the acidic filtrate as well. Break up the collected crystals and wash
them with water to remove any excess acid. Add the collected acid and wash
filtrates to a large volume of water, this will cause any remaining
trinitrotoluene to precipitate. Decant off as much of the water as possible
and combine these crystals with the previous ones on the funnel. Drown the
crystals in a large volume of water, filter to collect them, and wash several
times with water. Wash the crystals by adding them to a beaker of water, heat
the water enough to melt the crystals while stirring rapidly. Repeat the
melting and stirring with a fresh batch of water three or four times to wash
thoroughly. After the last washing, the trinitrotoluene is granulated by
allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued.
Filter to collect the crystals and allow to dry. The TNT can be further
purified by recrystallizing from ethyl alcohol, dissolve the crystals in 60 C
and allow the solution to cool slowly. A second method of purification is to
digest the TNT in 5 times its weight of 5% sodium bisulfite solution heated to
90 C while stirring rapidly for 30 minutes. Wash the crystals with hot water
until the washings are colorless, then allow the crystals to granulate as
before. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring
rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.20 Silver Fulminate:

Silver fulminate is a very sensitive primary explosive compound. It is
most often found in "bang snaps" and other novelty pyrotechnic objects. Only
very tiny amounts of silver fulminate should be prepared at once, the weight
of the crystals can cause them to self detonate. Silver fulminate was first
prepared in 1800 by Edward Howard in his research project to prepare a large
variety of fulminates. For 200 years it has been only useful as a curiosity
explosive in toys and tricks.
CHEMICALS
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
silver
water
APPARATUS
100/500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Heat 8 mL of 70% nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker to 35-38 C. Add 1 g of

silver metal to the acid. While the silver is dissolving it will produce toxic
nitrogen dioxide fumes, use a fume hood or get to a well ventilated area. Some
heating may be required to get all of the silver to dissolve. Put 15 mL of 95%
ethyl alcohol in a 500-mL beaker set into a salt-ice bath. After the silver
has dissolved, slowly add the solution to the alcohol while keeping the
temperature below 18 C. More toxic nitrogen dioxide will be released. The
reaction should require about 25-30 minutes to complete, after which 200 mL of
cold water is added to precipitate the silver fulminate. Decant off as much of
the liquid as possible then drown the crystals with water. Filter to collect
the crystals and wash them with 30 mL of ethyl alcohol. Flour or starch can be
added to the crystals before filtering to add some degree of stability. Store
the silver fulminate away from sunlight as it can decompose. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.21 ANFO:
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, kerosene, or diesel. The kerosene
keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.
*it's pretty difficult to make it go off. if you know alot about electrics and
you can get the temperature up to 500C then it's not a problem. 25 KG (50lbs)
ammonium nitrate costs around $14. and diesel costs about $1 dollar per litre
(2 pounds). so it's VERY cheap. and VERY powerful. as long as you can make it
go off.
*ANFO have to be stored in dry, indoor stores by temperature from minus 35C
to 35C up to 3 months from the date of manufacturing.
8.22 DNPA:
DNPA is the acronym for 4,4-dinitropimelic acid, another name is 4,4dinitro-1,7-heptanedioic acid. This explosive is fairly stable to heat and
shock as well as being storable at room temperature. While it is an explosive
itself, it is usually used to manufacture polynitroaliphatic explosives and
propellents. It may be more useful to polymerize this compound into the

polyester polymer 4,4-dinitropimelyl chloride and 2,2-dinitro-1,3-propanediol.
CHEMICALS
charcoal
ethyl ether
hydrochloric acid
methyl alcohol
methyl acrylate
potassium dinitroethanol
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
Preparation is by two steps, the first forms the dimethyl ester of DNPA,
and the second hydrolyzes it. In the first step, 1200 mL of methyl acrylate is
added dropwise, with a pipet or buret, while stirring with a magnetic stirrer
or stirring rod, to an aqueous solution of 2.5 moles of potassium
dinitroethanol at room temperature inside a large beaker. The addition is
completed in 3 hours with 8 more hours of stirring required to complete the
reaction. After completion of the stirring , the ester that should have formed
is extracted several times with ethyl ether, decolorized with charcoal, and
the ethyl ether is removed under vacuum. The impure ester is then
recrystallized from methyl alcohol. The second step hydrolyzes 39 g of the
ester by refluxing it with 350 mL of 18% hydrochloric acid for several hours.
After cooling, the 4,4-dinitropimelic acid is crystallized by adding water.
The total yield based on potassium dinitroethanol is 55-56%. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
8.23 Nitroguanidine:
Nitroguanidine, sometimes written as nitroguanadine, is a stable primary
explosive compound. The explosive power and insensitivity of this chemical
make it comparable to high explosives like TNT and a good choice for
preparation if your safety skills are not fully established. Unfortunately,
the preparation of guanidine nitrate, the main precursor for nitroguanidine,
can be hampered as its precursors are difficult to obtain. This of course
leads to the synthesis of nitroguanidine being hampered as well. With that
aside, nitroguanidine is very simple to synthesize, requiring only sulfuric
acid to react with. There are two crystalline forms of nitroguanidine, an
alpha and a beta. Although there is little difference between the two forms,
the alpha is the simpler to synthesize, the beta will quickly convert to the
alpha anyway.
CHEMICALS
guanidine nitrate
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
In a 1000-mL beaker add 500 mL of 98% or greater sulfuric acid, then cool
the flask in a salt-ice bath to 10C or below. Slowly add 400 g of dry
guanidine nitrate to the acid while stirring, keeping the temperature of the
mixture below 10 C. The mixture should have a milky appearance, allow it to
stand at room temperature, while occasionally stirring, until it is
homogeneous and free from crystals. This may require anywhere from 15 to 20
hours. After the wait, pour the mixture into a large beaker of ice and water,
this will cause nitroguanidine to precipitate out of solution. After one hour
of standing, with cooling in the salt-ice bath, all the crystals should have
precipitated. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals, rinse them with
water to remove any acid that may be behind, then dissolve them in 4 liters of
boiling water. Allow the water to cool for 12 to 24 hours and the crystals
should precipitate. Pour the water over a filter to collect the crystals, and
then allow them to dry. The nitroguanidine formed can be stored safely and
will not decompose. The yield is about 90%. You will need a graduated cylinder
8.24 Astrolite:
Astrolite is not a chemical compound but rather a two component high
explosive mixture. Its claim to fame is it has the highest explosive velocity
of all chemical explosives, a distant second only to a nuclear blast, a claim
that is entirely false. Only that anarchist crap still thinks that Astrolite
is super powerful. The truth is, its low density makes it unlikely to achieve
a detonation comparable to more common explosives Astrolite G is a mixture of
ammonium nitrate and hydrazine, Astrolite A adds aluminum powder to the mix
for extra power. Hydrazine is a very toxic, corrosive, and dangerous chemical
that you will never be able to get. The fumes can kill you in seconds if
breathed in a confined area. I have devoted a section to hydrazine and its
safety in the chemical synthesis section.
CHEMICALS
aluminum powder
ammonium nitrate
hydrazine
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
stirring rod
To make Astrolite G, add 200 g of ammonium nitrate to a large beaker and

stir in 100 mL of hydrazine, mix well. For Astrolite A add 40 g of aluminum
powder to the Astrolite G mixture. It is best to make the mixture immediately
before use because the ammonium nitrate becomes sensitive to detonation once
hydrazine is added. Professional blasters make their mixtures in the field at
the blast site for greater safety. Each component is measured out in separate
containers, transported to the site, mixed, allowed to sit for 20 minutes, and
detonated. As separate components they are very safe (well as safe as
hydrazine can get) and the mixing is easy. Astrolite can be detonated even
when it has been poured out on the ground and left for 4 days. More Astrolite
can be prepared by observing a 2:1 ratio of ammonium nitrate to hydrazine by
weight and 1:5 of aluminum powder to ammonium nitrate by weight. You will need
a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids and a stirring rod for mixing.
8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene:
During the early chemical industry days of World War I there was a lot of
spare chlorine floating about and there was a big demand for benzene which
made it cheap and available. Put em together and you get chlorobenzene and
dichlorobenzene,of which p-dichlorobenzene is a type of mothball still used
today. The nitration of chlorobenzene was started around 1862 by A. Riche.
Dinitrodichlorobenzene was first manufactured as an explosive called parazol.
It was mixed with with TNT in shells but did not detonate completely. Instead,
the unexploded portion was atomized in the air and was a vigorous itchproducer and lachrymator (causes tears like mace), it also yielded some
phosgene gas which was a dreadful chemical weapon used back then.
Dinitrochlorobenzene finds more use as an ingredient in the manufacture of
other explosives than as an actual explosive itself, although it has been
mixed with picric acid for use in shells. Avoid contact with the solid and
vapors of this chemical, it causes severe itching, as well as weakness, low
blood count, digestive organ damage, and heart failure. The proper name of
this compound is 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene for the most abundant isomer, and
2-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene for the other isomer. Other names include 2,4dinitro-1-chlorobenzene;
2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene;
1,3-dinitro-4chlorobenzene; chlorodinitrobenzene; DNCB; and 4-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene.
CHEMICALS
chlorobenzene
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
pipet/buret
thermometer
90 mL of chlorobenzene is added dropwise with a dropper pipet or buret to

a previously prepared, and cooled to room temperature, mixture of 110 mL of
99% nitric acid and 185 mL of 99% sulfuric acid, in a 1000-mL beaker, while
the mixture is stirred mechanically with a magnetic stirrer. A stirrer is
essential for the length of time required, you may try this by hand with a
stirring rod at your own risk. The temperature will rise because of the heat
of the reaction, but should not be allowed to go above 50-55 C. After all the
chlorobenzene has been added, the temperature is slowly raised to 95 C and is
kept there for 2 hours longer while the stirring is continued. An upper layer
of light yellow liquid solidifies when cold. The layer is removed, broken up
under water, and rinsed. The spent acid, on dilution with water, will
precipitate an additional quantity of dinitrochlorobenzene. All the product is
brought together, washed with cold water, then several times with hot water
while it is melted, and once more with cold water under which it is crushed.
Finally, it is drained and allowed to dry at room temperature. The product,
melting at about 50 C, consists largely of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene, along
with a small quantity of the 2,6-dinitro compound, m.p. 87-88 C. The two
substances are equally suitable for manufacture of other explosives or alone
as an explosive. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and
a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.26 HMTD:
HMTD, or hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine, is a somewhat unstable primary
explosive compound. Its extreme sensitivity to heat, shock, and friction make
HMTD a poor choice for the lesser skilled home chemist. This lab uses hydrogen
peroxide at 30% concentration, it is possible to use the more common 3%
concentration by adding ten times as much. The hexamethylenetetramine used
here, also called hexamine, methenamine, or urintropine, can be purchased as
"heating tablets." As to what heating tablets are... They are used in camping
and in the military for heating meals, or hand warmers. It is very unlikely
that you will find this anymore, so synthesize your own as described in the
chemical synthesis section. HMTD has been used as a detonator, it is safer and
more powerful than mercury fulminate or acetone peroxide. It is stable when
compared to other primary explosives, and it is one of the safest explosive
peroxides. HMTD should be kept cool and dry as it may evaporate or decompose,
it should also be kept away from metals as it will corrode them. HMTD will
detonate if struck, but will only burn if heated.
CHEMICALS
citric acid
methenamine
hydrogen peroxide
methyl/ethyl alcohol
water
APPARATUS
200-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Dissolve 14 g of methenamine in 50 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide in a 200mL beaker while stirring vigorously with a magnetic stirrer or with a stirring
rod. You must also cool this solution by placing the beaker in a salt-ice
bath. While stirring, slowly add 21 g of powdered citric acid in small
portions to the beaker making sure the temperature stays at or below 0 C at
all times. After adding the citric acid, keep stirring for 3 hours and
continue to hold the temperature at 0 C. Next, remove the beaker from the
cooling bath and let it stand at room temperature for 2 hours, discontinue
stirring as well. Finally, pour the solution over a filter to collect the
crystals of HMTD, wash them thoroughly with water, and rinse with methyl or
ethyl alcohol so they can dry faster at room temperature. Dry by setting in a
cool place. HMTD does not store well, so deal with it immediately. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor
the temperature.
8.27 HNIW:
HNIW is an acronym for hexanitrohexaazaisowurtzitane, other names
include CL-20; octahydro-1,3,4,7,8,10-hexanitro-5,2,6-(iminomethenimino)-1Himidazo[4,5-b]pyrazine; 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro-2,4,6,8,10,12hexaazatetracyclo[5.5.0.05,9.03,11]dodecane; and 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro2,4,6,8,10,12-hexaazaisowurtzitane.
HNIW is a new kid on the block, it was first prepared by A.T. Nielsen in
1987, and has since been proposed as a propellent for bullets and as a
blasting explosive. There are actually 6 crystalline isomers of HNIW, this lab
will prepare the beta form, although some of the alpha form will probably be
made. The other isomers are made by heating the crystals to its decomposition
point, the alpha and beta forms are the most stable. This explosive will most
likely be the standard workhorse of the 21st century, it is currently still in
testing for useful applications. HNIW is a symmetric polyazacyclic nitramine,
itself a type of caged polynitramine, a promising new series of compounds.
HNIW is similar to RDX and HMX in structure and explosive properties. This is
a two part lab, the first synthesizing a derivative called
tetraacetyldibenzylhexaazaisowurtzitane (TADB), then from that, HNIW.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
bromobenzene
chloroform
N,N-dimethylformamide
ethyl acetate
ethyl alcohol
HBIW
hydrogen
nitrogen
nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate
Pearlman's catalyst
sulfolane
water
APPARATUS
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 129 mL of N,N-dimethylformamide and 65 mL of acetic

anhydride in a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask. Add to the flask, with
stirring, 43.2 g of HBIW, 0.8 mL of bromobenzene, and 4.7 g of Pearlman's
catalyst. Purge the flask by bubbling hydrogen gas in the liquid ,this will
displace the air. Continue to bubble hydrogen gas into the flask and stir. If
possible, maintain a pressure of 50 psi. Over a short period of time, the
temperature may rise to about 50 C, at this temperature begin cooling the
flask with a cold water or salt-ice bath to keep it under 50 C. The total
reaction time needed is 24 hours. Since it is undesirable to bubble hydrogen
gas through the flask for this length of time, as much would be wasted, a
pressure is maintained. During the reaction, stop cooling if the temperature
drops below 35 C, always keep it between 35-50 C. Stir the contents of the
flask for the entire 24 hours. Purge the flask by bubbling nitrogen gas into
it to displace any remaining hydrogen. Filter the contents of the flask to
collect the solid material and the catalyst. Wash with 130 mL of denatured
ethyl alcohol, this should leave behind a gray solid of Pearlman's catalyst
and TADB. The TADB can be separated from the catalyst by dissolving the solid
in boiling chloroform, and filtering to remove the remaining solid catalyst.
Boil the chloroform down to recrystallize the TADB. The yield is about 85%.
Prepare a solution of 15.5 g of the above prepared TADB, 1.1 mL of water,
and 300 mL of sulfolane in a round bottomed 500-mL Florence flask on a saltice bath. Add 10.5 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate to the flask over a period
of 30 minutes, keeping the temperature below 25 C. After the addition, stir
the mixture for 1 hour at 25 C, then for 1 hour at 55-60 C. Allow the
solution, which should be a yellow-orange color, to cool to 25 C. After
cooling, rapidly add 47.8 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate, keeping the
temperature below 25 C. Stir the mixture at 25 C for 2 hours, then at 55-60
C for 2 hours. Cool the mixture to below 10 C with a salt-ice bath, then
dump the contents, solid precipitate and all, into a large bucket. Slowly add
4.5 L of water to the mixture in the bucket, keeping the temperature below 25
C, the color of the solution should change from green to yellow, some brown
fumes may be evolved. Maintain the temperature at 25 C with continuous
stirring for 18 hours, a white precipitate should form. Filter to collect this
crude HNIW, and wash several times with water to yield about 12 g of hydrated
product. To purify the HNIW, dissolve it in 40 mL of ethyl acetate,
chromatographically filter the solution through a short column of silica get,
and wash with ethyl acetate. Pour the filtered solution into 500 mL of
chloroform to precipitate the HNIW in its anhydrous beta form. The
chromatographic filtration can be skipped. If pale yellow crystals are
obtained as the crude product, it is the wrong stuff. Heat these crystals in
15 mL of water per 1 g of product at 95 C with stirring for 10 minutes, then
cool to 0 C. After standing for 6 hours, filter and wash the crude product as
above, it should be HNIW now. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
8.28 HNO:
HNO stands for 2,4,6,2',4',6'-hexanitro-oxanilide. This material uses the
explosive TNO as its precursor. HNO was first prepared by A.G. Perkins in 1892
when he did nitrations of TNO and from oxanilide. HNO is a stable compound
that resists mechanical shock, friction, and heat. Compared to TNO this
compound is fairly similar, it has, perhaps, slightly greater stability and
explosive power. HNO is used as a component in ignitors and pyrotechnics.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
tetranitro-oxanilide
water
thermometer
APPARATUS
beaker
Buchner funnel
graduated cylinder
litmus paper
Prepare an acid mixture by pouring 125 mL of 90% nitric acid into a round
bottomed 1000-mL Florence flask. Slowly add 55 mL of concentrated sulfuric
acid. Set the flask into a salt-ice bath and cool it to 10 C. You will need a
magnetic stirrer if using a flask, otherwise stir by hand with a stirring rod
in a beaker with extreme caution. Slowly add 29.2 of tetranitro-oxanilide
(TNO) to the mixed acid with rapid agitation while keeping the temperature
between 8-10 C, this should require about 25 minutes. After adding the TNO,
transfer the flask to a water bath and heat it to 85 C over a 2 hour period,
then hold the temperature between 85-90 for 1 hour more. The HNO slurry is
filtered on a Buchner funnel and washed with water until it is almost acid
free. The filter cake is placed in a beaker and sufficient water added to form
a slurry. Steam is run into the slurry under agitation for 10 minutes. The
slurry is filtered and the residue washed. The latter treatment of the slurry
is repeated until the wash water is found to be neutral to litmus paper. The
HNO is washed with ethyl alcohol, then acetone, dried in the air, and finally
dried at 100-110 C. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids,
8.29 IPN:
IPN is an acronym for isopropyl nitrate, its proper scientific name is
2-propyl nitrate. IPN is a white liquid with an ether like smell. IPN is a
volatile liquid with anesthetic properties at lower concentrations as well as
causing headaches if inhaled or spilled on the skin. Ingesting or constant
inhalation of quantities exceeding 4% for two or more hours is lethal.
Quantities as low as 0.2% show no ill effects. This substance has found uses
as rocket propellents and jet starter fuel when it is not being used as a
propellent or explosive. The liquid is stable for the most part although it is
flammable.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
isopropyl alcohol Florence flask
nitric acid
urea
To prepare IPN, isopropyl alcohol is nitrated continuously by adding a
mixture of 61% nitric acid with 95% isopropyl alcohol, saturated with urea,
into a Florence flask set up for distillation containing boiling 50% nitric
acid. The IPN and water formed are continuously distilled off at about 98 C
from the reaction mixture. The volume of the reaction mixture is held constant
by drainage of nitric acid and unstable by-products from it as the reactants
are added. Unless you have a special flask with a stopcock on the bottom, you
will have to periodically disconnect the flask from the condenser and dump out
some of the used nitric acid. You will also have to momentarily disconnect the
flask to add more acid/alcohol mix if you do not have an addition funnel. Be
very careful doing this as you will subject yourself to a blast of acid fumes.
A curtain of air, nitrogen, or carbon dioxide is blown through the reaction
mixture to improve mixing and to facilitate the elimination of the volatile
products. However, a flow of inert gas in excess of 50 L/hr decreases the IPN
yield. The optimum ratio of nitric acid to isopropyl alcohol is about 2:1. The
IPN yield is 78%.
8.30 MEDINA:
MEDINA stands for methylene dinitramine, and is also called
methylenedinitramine and N,N-dinitromethanediamine. This compound was first
prepared around 1949 at the University of Bristol by the hydrolysis of
hexamine. This compound is not cruelty free (heh heh), it has been sprayed
into rabbit eyes and injected under guinea pigs skins. The compound has been
found to be non-toxic. This lab does not exactly fit in well with normal
laboratory procedures as this information is the industrial laboratory method.
Since this is the industrial method and it is still made in the lab I conclude
this substance is either not used much or is to dangerous, I am leaning

towards not used much. This is surprising as this explosive is quite powerful
for such a small and simple molecule. Its real fault lies in the fact that it
does not keep well, so use it soon after preparing.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
acetone
charcoal
ethyl acetate
ethyl alcohol
ethyl chloride
formamide
formic acid
isopropyl alcohol
methenamine
nitric acid
2-nitropropane
paraffin
sodium hydroxide
sodium sulfate
water
xylene
APPARATUS
50 & 250-mL beaker
buret
2-L Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
This is a three step process for the manufacture of MEDINA: In a round

bottom 2-L Florence flask, mix 476 mL of formamide and 70 g of methenamine.
The flask is set up for refluxing, and heated at 140 C for 5 hours. It is
then chilled in ice, the solid is filtered, and washed on a filter with 90 g
of formamide. The crude product of methylenediformamide may be used in the
next step or purified by dissolving in ethyl alcohol, decolorizing with
charcoal, and chilling.
19 mL of 100% nitric acid is added dropwise with a buret while stirring
to a suspension of 5 g of crude methylenediformamide in 19 mL of acetic
anhydride cooled to 10-15 C in a 50-mL beaker. The solution is then held at 0
C for 2 hours, and poured with stirring into a 250-mL beaker filled with 150
mL of ice water. The precipitate is filtered, washed twice by mixing with ice
water, pressed dry on the filter, and dissolved in 30 mL of ethyl acetate. The
solution is seperated from water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate,
concentrated in vacuum, 10 mL of isopropyl alcohol is added, and the product
is collected. The product is methylene di(nitroformamide), which can be
purified by recrystallization from either acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or from
boiling ethyl chloride.
The crude methylene di(nitroformamide) is pressed dry on the filter,
stirred into 105 mL of formic acid, and the paste is allowed to stand
overnight. The next day the solution is filtered through an acid filter, the
formic acid and water is removed by distilling with xylene, and the crude
MEDINA, which seperates as a sand, is filtered and dried over paraffin and
sodium hydroxide in vacuum. The crude MEDINA is recrystallized from 2nitropropane or a 9:1 solution of ethyl chloride/isopropyl alcohol. You will
need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic
stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.31 MMAN:
MMAN is an acronym for monomethylamine nitrate, it is also called
methylamine nitrate. It is a powerful and stable primary explosive compound.
Its stability makes it a better choice for a primary explosive and as a test
of the independent chemist's skill. When used as a blasting cap it will
probably require some other more sensitive material to help it along, but when
it explodes it will detonate even insensitive explosives. The only problem
with it is that it is a hygroscopic compound, so keep it very tightly sealed
in storage. Another snag is the methylamine solution used, it is not a
supermarket item now that drug dealers have made it a DEA watched chemical, it
is easy to make though. A note on nitric acid: You can use any concentration
of acid from 20% and up, it is the volume of acid that is required. I have
given the volume for pure acid, adjust as needed for lesser solutions.
CHEMICALS
methylamine
nitric acid
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
desiccator
graduated cylinder
Place 250 mL of 33% methylamine solution in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add,

with stirring, 385 mL of 100% nitric acid. It will be helpful to divide the
acid into four equal portions of 96 mL each and use a salt-ice bath. The acid
addition will generate substantial heat and may boil, wait until the solution
cools a little before adding the next portion. It is not necessary to add
concentrated nitric acid, a concentration as low as 20% will suffice. You must
still add the equivalent of 385 mL of pure acid. Remember there is 1 mL of
pure acid per 1% of solution in 100 mL. A 20% solution would require 1925 mL.
After adding the acid, test the solution with pH paper, or litmus paper. The
result must be near pH 7 if using the pH paper and be neutral if using litmus
paper. If the solution is acidic add methylamine until pH 7 is reached. If the
solution is basic add nitric acid until pH 7 is reached. Evaporate the liquid
to precipitate the crystals of MMAN by heating until a slurry is reached, then
use vacuum drying to remove the rest of the water. Because the MMAN is
hygroscopic, it will be impossible to drive off all the water unless heated
under vacuum or placed in a desiccator. Extreme care must be taken when
heating an explosive IT CAN EXPLODE. MMAN is safe enough that it only burns
when strongly heated. Use either a hotplate, steam bath, or oil bath to heat
the explosive. If you have access to vacuum equipment use the vacuum drying
method. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a
stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing.
8.32 NPN:
NPN is an acronym for n-propyl nitrate, it also has the names propyl
nitrate; monopropyl nitrate; 1-propyl nitrate; and propyl ester of nitric
acid. This substance is a watery white liquid that is extremely toxic if
inhaled. It is very stable, it can be knocked around for a good bit before
detonating, but increasing the temperature will increase the sensitivity. This
substance can be detonated while vaporized making it a good fuel-air

explosive, The maximum detonation velocity that can be achieved is 1,900 m/s
at 21% concentration in air. Anything more or less will have a lower velocity
and is thus less powerful. NPN has found many uses in industry, the list
includes: rocket propellent, jet motor starting fuel, turbine motor fuel, a
degreasing solvent for iron and aluminum, and a diesel fuel additive just to
name a few.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ethyl acetate
isopropyl alcohol thermometer
nitric acid
n-propyl alcohol
sodium carbonate
sulfuric acid
NPN can be prepared by reacting n-propyl alcohol with 70% nitric acid
dissolved in ethyl acetate. During the reaction the temperature must be kept
at 20 C, the product can then be extracted by distillation.
NPN can also be prepared by reacting a continuous stream of propyl
alcohol below the surface of a stirred mixed acid composed of 20% nitric acid,
68% sulfuric acid, and 12% by weight of water in an open stainless steel
vessel cooled to 0-5 C. Additional mixed acid is also simultaneously
introduced at about a third of the depth of the liquid. An overflow pipe
maintains a constant reactant level and the effluent product is separated,
washed with aqueous 10% sodium carbonate solution, and dried by passage
through a Filtrol packed tower with 50% isopropyl alcohol as the solvent at 0
C. Yield is about 66.5%. Sorry, I have no volumes to give you. You will need
a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.
8.33 PVN:
PVN stands for polyvinyl nitrate, which means that this explosive is a
continually linked chain of vinyl nitrate over and over again. The material
appears to be a white powder if the polymer has fewer links in the molecule
and as tough white strands if there are many links in the molecule. PVN was
first prepared in Germany in 1929 by G. Frank and H. Kruger by nitrating
polyvinyl alcohol. This laboratory procedure comes from, I believe, two French
scientists named Chdin and Tribot who experimented on method of PVN
preparation after WWII. The densities of PVN can vary depending on the density
of the starting polyvinyl alcohol and range from a low 0.3 g/mL to 1.5 g/mL
and corresponding detonation velocities of 2030 m/s to 6560 m/s. Obviously it
is better to have a higher density product. This product has found a niche in
military applications mainly in propellents, but not so much in industrial
applications.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
polyvinyl alcohol
APPARATUS
250-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
sodium bicarbonate vacuum desiccator

water
Over a period of 1 hour, very slowly add 5 g of finely pulverized
polyvinyl alcohol (containing 10% moisture) to 100 mL of 99-100 nitric acid in
a 250-mL beaker. The beaker should be in a salt-ice bath to provide cooling
during the addition. Maintain constant stirring and a temperature of -8 C
throughout the addition, and for an additional 2 hours after the addition. The
resulting slurry is slowly drowned in an equal volume of ice water while
vigorously stirring. Filter this to collect the white powder that should have
formed, wash the powder with water until neutral to litmus, then put it in
clean water for 12 hours. Repeat the washing and standing process using 95%
ethyl alcohol, and again repeat the process with 12% sodium bicarbonate
solution. Finally, the powder is washed with water until neutral to litmus,
dried in the open air, then in a vacuum desiccator. The yield is about 96%.
It may be possible to increase the nitration yield by adding the
polyvinyl alcohol to acetic anhydride first and using more nitric acid, the
procedure is followed as above.
Here are the formulas for WC846 and M9 propellants:
82% PVN
57.75% PVN
10.2% nitroglycerin
40.0% nitroglycerin
0.7% dinitrotoluene
1.50% potassium nitrate
6.1% dibutylphthalate 0.75% ethyl centralite
1.0% diphenylamine
0.50% ethyl alcohol
And, yes, M9 does add up to 100.5%, the alcohol is supposed to be just trace
amounts, but is listed as 0.5% for some reason.
8.34 TeNN:
TeNN is an acronym for tetranitronaphthalene. There are actually several
isomers of TeNN, we are primarily concerned with 1,3,6,8-tetranitronaphthalene
as it forms in abundance over the 1,2,4,6-; 1,2,5,8-; 1,2,6,8-; 1,3,5,7-;
1,3,5,8-; and 1,4,5,8-tetranitronaphthalenes. A mixture of isomers is bound to
occur, though. TeNN is a very powerful and quite stable high explosive
compound. It is actually slightly more powerful that TNT and just as stable.
This explosive is superb because of its primary ingredient naphthalene.
Naphthalene is the chemical name for moth balls, it is cheap, easy to get, not
to hazardous, and sold in a store near you. I keep waiting for the government
to ban it, or some environMeNtaList whacko to launch a save the moths campaign
to ban it. The only drawback to TeNN is the possibility of side reactions
reducing the yield during synthesis. Rapid heating of TeNN will cause it to
explode, but slow heating will only cause decomposition. This lab uses
concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids which are not so common, but still
obtainable. Making TeNN is a multi step synthesis, first making mononitro then
1,8-dinitronaphthalene.
CHEMICALS
acetone
ethyl alcohol
naphthalene
nitric acid
potassium nitrate
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
1000-mL beaker
2000-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Prepare a mixture of 64 g of powdered naphthalene with 105 mL of water in

a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid to the beaker then
add 81 mL of 70% nitric acid. Stir this mixture occasionally and allow it to
cool to room temperature. During a 3 hour period, slowly add with stirring 150
g of powdered naphthalene to the acid mixture. The temperature will rise,
regulate the addition of the naphthalene to get the temperature at 50 C by
the end of the addition time. After all of the naphthalene has been added,
continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 C for several minutes then stop
stirring and allow the mix to cool. Some mononitronaphthalene should
crystallize on the surface of the beaker.
Prepare a second nitrating mixture by putting 300 mL of 53% sulfuric acid
in a 1000-mL beaker. Cool the acid to 25 C by placing in a salt-ice bath. Add
152 g of potassium nitrate to the acid while stirring rapidly. Remove the
mononitronaphthalene from the previous reaction and crush it up, add it in
small bits while stirring to the mixture, maintain the temperature between 38
C and 45 C. The addition should require about 1 hour, do not allow the
temperature to go over 45 C at any time during the addition. After the
addition, continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 C until the formation
of dinitronaphthalene crystals begin. Filter the contents of the beaker on an
acid filter to collect the crystals of dinitronaphthalene that should have
formed. Wash the crystals with six portions of cold water and allow them to
dry. Dissolve the dry crystals in boiling acetone. Filter this solution while
hot to remove any undissolved impurities, collect the filtrate and allow it to
cool by placing in a salt-ice bath. Filter to collect the pure crystals of
dinitronaphthalene. Collect the acetone filtrate from this filtering, boil it
to reduce the volume by half, and cool in a salt-ice bath. Again filter to
collect a second crop of dinitronaphthalene, add these crystals to the
previous and allow them to dry.
Prepare the final nitrating acid mixture by slowly adding 750 mL of 100%
sulfuric acid to 750 mL of 100% fuming nitric acid in a 2000-mL beaker. Cool
the acid mix to below 20 C with a salt-ice bath. Once below this temperature,
slowly add with stirring the dry dinitronaphthalene from the previous reaction
while maintaining the temperature at 20 C during the addition. After the
addition, slowly heat the mixture to 80 C over a 1 hour period (1 degree
higher every minute) then hold the temperature at 80-90 C for 3 hours more.
Allow the mixture to cool then filter on an acid filter to collect the
crystals of TeNN that should have formed. Collect the filtrate and drown it in
ice water to precipitate additional crystals of TeNN. Filter to collect these
crystals and combine them with the other crystals. Wash the crystals with
several portions of water then add them to 95% ethyl alcohol. Allow the
crystals to dissolve, then cool in a salt-ice bath to recrystallize the now
pure TeNN. The pure crystals can be filtered to collect them and dried by
heating on a steam bath.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod
or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature
for these procedures.
8.35 TNPEN:
TNPEN is an acronym for -(2,4,6-trinitrophenoxy) ethanol nitrate, also
called 2,4,6-trinitrophenoxyethyl nitrate; or glycoltrinitrophenylether
nitrate. TNPEN was first prepared by H.A. Lewis back in 1925, others have
since revised the method, with this particular preparation developed by R.C.
Elderfield in 1943. TNPEN will ignite when heated in the open and will
detonate if struck as if by a hammer, so its stability is not that low,
compared to TNT it is as stable and has 122% the explosive power. There is
some conflicting data that indicates the stability may be lower. The
recommended uses of this explosive are in detonators or boosters, and as an
ingredient in propellents. The detonation velocity ranges from 5500 m/s to
6600 m/s depending on the density which can range from 1.15 g/mL to 1.6 g/mL
CHEMICALS
acetone
-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol
ethyl alcohol
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
beaker
graduated cylinder
glass filter paper
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 10 g of -(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol in 55 mL of

94% sulfuric acid in a small beaker. Prepare a second solution of 21.5 mL of
sulfuric acid, 13.2 mL of nitric acid, and 15.7 mL of water in a round
bottomed 250-mL Florence flask, chill this solution to between 0-10 C with a
salt-ice bath. It does not matter what concentration of acids are mixed so
long as the total water content comes out to 15.7 mL. While stirring, slowly
add the -(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol solution to the cold acid mix. When the
addition is complete, the temperature is raised in 30 minute intervals to 20
C, 30 C, 40 C, 60 C, and in a 15 minute interval to 70 C. After chilling,
the cream-colored crystals are filtered using glass filter paper, washed free
of acid, and recrystallized by dissolving in acetone and adding ethyl alcohol.
8.36 TNPht:
TNPht is also known as ethyl picrate; aethyl-[2,4,6-trinitrophenyl]-ather;
pikrinsaureaethylather, or aethylpikrat in German; keineyaku, or keyneyaku in
Japanese. The proper scientific name for this substance is 2,4,6trinitrophenetole. This explosive is almost as powerful as TNT but its
sensitivity is not all that great. This explosive would be classified as a
booster, it needs a detonator to set it off and then it would set off a high
explosive. This material was tested in France during WWI in shells as a
bursting charge. The Japanese used it during WWII as a substitute for TNT
because they had a shortage of toluene. This lab was developed by L.
Desvergnes around 1922.
CHEMICALS
2,4-dinitrophenetole
nitric acid
sulfuric acid
water
APPARATUS
500-mL beaker
graduated cylinder
thermometer
Dissolve 53 g of 2,4-dinitrophenetole in 95 mL of 95-98% sulfuric acid in

a 500-mL beaker while stirring. Add 62% nitric acid so that the temperature
rises rapidly to 30 C. Continue the addition, while maintaining the
temperature between 30-40 C by cooling with a salt-ice bath, until a total of
30 mL of nitric acid has been added. Pour the resulting yellow slurry into
about 1500 mL of cold water, filter to collect the crystals, wash the crystals
with cold water, and dry. There should be about 61.8 g of product, or 96% of
the theoretical yield. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
8.37 Tetranitromethane:
Tetranitromethane, also called TeNMe, is a colorless to pale yellow
liquid that was first prepared by the action of nitric acid on trinitromethane
back in 1861. The Germans used it back in WWII for an intermediate in making
other explosives and as a substitute for nitric acid in the V-2 rocket. A
pilot plant in New Jersey used to make tetranitromethane blew up in 1953. This
compound is rather toxic, irritating the skin, mucous membranes and the
respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to vapors causes damage to the liver,
kidneys, and other organs. A concentration of 0.1 ppm in the air is fatal.
Mixtures of tetranitromethane with organic liquids tend to form more powerful
explosives, but the sensitivity is worse. A list of mixtures has been
provided. Tetranitromethane has been proposed as a chemical warfare agent.
CHEMICALS
acetic anhydride
nitric acid
sodium hydroxide
sodium sulfate
water
APPARATUS
addition funnel
beaker
Clasien adapter
desiccator
250-ml Florence flask
graduated cylinder
thermometer
This reaction will produce toxic fumes, so take the necessary

precautions. Measure out 21 mL of 100% nitric acid into a round-bottomed 250ml Florence flask. It is important to only use anhydrous acid and no more than
the amount proscribed, any deviation will drastically lower the yield of this
reaction. Place a Clasien adapter on the flask and attach a thermometer on the
straight arm, almost touching the bottom of the flask, and an addition funnel
on the side arm. In this instance do not use a thermometer adapter to connect
the thermometer, there must be a gap to allow reaction gasses to escape.
Cool the contents of the flask to 10 C in an ice water bath. Slowly add
47.2 mL of acetic anhydride in portions of 0.5 mL at a time from the buret. Do
not let the temperature of the mixture rise above 10 C during the addition,
failure to maintain the temp may result in a dangerous runaway reaction. After
the first 5 mL of acid has been added the reaction should have calmed down
enough where you can begin to add larger portions of 1 to 5 mL at a time with
constant shaking.
After all the acetic anhydride has been added, everything is removed from
the flask. The neck of the flask is wiped clean with a towel, the flask is
then covered with an inverted beaker, and it is now allowed to come up to room
temperature in the ice bath. It is important to keep the flask in the ice bath
because the reaction can still become dangerous if it is allowed to warm up
too rapidly. The flask should be left alone for 1 week (yes, 7 days) at room
temperature.
After sitting for a week the contents are mixed with 300 mL of water in a
500-mL Florence flask. The tetranitromethane is removed by steam distillation,
the tetranitromethane passes over with the first 20 mL of the distillate. The
lower layer of the distillate is separated, washed with dilute sodium
hydroxide, and then water, and finally dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate in
a desiccator. Yield is 1416 g, or about 57-65%. Do not distill
tetranitromethane by ordinary distillation means, it may explode. The residues
of distillation are especially dangerous. Use only steam distillation, and
even then be careful. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids.
Explosive mixtures with organic compounds
Tetranitromethane can be mixed with several compounds including benzene,
ethylene glycol, gasoline, naphthalene, and toluene, but the resulting
explosive may be rather sensitive to detonation. Here are some mixing ratios:
-87:13 mixture of benzene and TeNMe
-1:1 mixture of ethylene glycol and TeNMe
-varying amounts of gasoline or diesel mixed with TeNMe are powerful but very
sensitive, I suspect that the more TeNMe there is the more sensitive it will
be
-1 mole naphthalene to 2 moles TeNMe
-4 moles of nitromethane to 1 mole TeNMe
-mixing 10-40% paraffins and 60-90% TeNMe will make powerful explosives that
are resistant to mechanical shock but detonate by explosive shock
-mixing with toluene creates a very powerful explosive (>8000 m/s) that is
more unstable than nitroglycerine
8.38 CH-6
CH-6 is a mixture of 97.5% RDX, 1.5% calcium stearate, 0.5%

polyisobutylene, and 0.5% graphite. It is a finely divided gray powder that is
less toxic and more available than tetryl.

Composition A-5 is a mixture of 98.5% RDX and 1.5% stearic acid.
8.40 COMPOSITION A-3.Composition A-3 is a wax-coated, granular explosive, consisting of 91%

RDX and 9% desensitizing wax.
8.41 COMPOSITION B.Composition B is a mixture of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. The TNT
reduces the sensitivity of the RDX to a safe degree and, because of its
melting point, allows the material to be cast-loaded.
8.42 PBXN-5
PBXN-5 is referred to as a plastic-bonded explosive because it is an
explosive coated with plastic material. The composition is made of 95% HMX and
5% fluoroelastomers.
8.43 Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide(MEKP):

PREPARATION AND PROPERTIES OF METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE
The three most common forms of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide are:
MONOMERIC: C4H10(O)4
DIMERIC: C8H18(O)6
ANHYDROUS DIMERIC: C8H16(O)4
The anhydrous dimeric form is the preferable form to create; it is more
powerful and less sensitive to shock. Bot hforms are very sensitive to heat.
Anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide takes many times as sharp of a
blow from a hammer to initiate detonation than with trimeric acetone peroxide.
This is due to several factors:
(1) It is an oily liquid, not a solid, A solid will not shift shape to fit its
container, as will a liquid. Thus, when trimeric acetone peroxide is struck
with a hammer, the crystals shatter, causing decomposition; when anhydrous
dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is struck with a hammer, it will shift
shape significantly, often avoiding decomposition.
(2) The C-O-O-C group is better shielded in anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide. Thus, random energy surges
will be less likely to affect the C-O-O-C group enough to break all of the
bonds in the group, which would result in exothermic decomposition, likely
starting a chain reaction; this would be perceived as detonation.
(3) There is less stress on the peroxide groups in anhydrous dimeric methyl
ethyl ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide (bond stress is mostly
responsible for monomeric acetone peroxide's incredible instability, and
anhydrous dimeric acetone peroxide's relative instability when compared to
trimeric acetone peroxide).
(4) The decomposition to an exothermic stage of decomposition of a single
molecule of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide requires more
energy than with a single molecule of trimeric acetone peroxide.
(5) Less energy is liberated from the decomposition of a single anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecule, causing it to be less likely that
detonation will occur from the decomposition of just a handful of anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecules.
Perhaps the most valuable property of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is the fact
that it can be stored for a long period of time. Chemical decomposition does
not proceed beyond the monomeric form, with the obvious exception of
deflagration and detonation. Autonomous chemical decomposition is very slow
when not in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (which causes the anhydrous
dimeric form to begin to decompose slowly into the monomeric form). Because of
this, it is wise to prepare anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in
an excess of methyl ethyl ketone (this fact has been factored into the below
instruction on preparation of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide). Anhydrous dimeric
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is a thick, oily liquid. The anhydrous dimeric
form, when pure, possesses a sharp, sour, acidic "burning" odor. The procedure
for preparation that will soon be discussed will produce mostly the anhydrous
dimeric form.
PREPARATION OF ANHYDROUS DIMERIC METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE:
CHEMICALS NEEDED:
-40mL 27.5% H2O2 solution (other concentrations may be used; the volume of
hydrogen peroxide solution will need to be adjusted accordingly; the quantity
of sulfuric acid used will also need to be adjusted)
-25mL Methyl Ethyl Ketone CH3COCH2CH3 (sold as a solvent at hardware stores;
keep in mind that it will dissolve most plastics)
-5mL 98% sulfuric acid (other concentrations may be used, the volume of
sulfuric acid will need to be adjusted accordingly)
-200mL NaHCO3 solution
procedure:
1) Place 25mL of methyl ethyl ketone in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in
2) Place 40mL of 27.5% H2O2 solution in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in
3) Wait fro the temperature of both the methyl ethyl ketone and the
temperature of the 27.5% H2O2 solution to fall into the recommended
temperature range. Then, pour the beaker of methyl ethyl ketone into the
beaker of hydrogen peroxide solution. Stir this solution for thirty seconds.
4) Add 5mL of 98% sulfuric acid slowly, drop by drop, taking care to keep
temperatures within the recommended temperature range, into the beaker
containing the monomeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. If the temperature
rises above 5 degrees Celcius, stop adding the sulfuric acid immediately.
5) After all of the sulfuric acid is added, wait 24 hours. It is highly
recommended to attempt to keep the temperatures within the recommended
temperature range during the entirety of every step of the prepataion (this is
a very common mistake made when attempting to make trimeric acetone peroxide;
most will not bother to keep the temperatures around zero degrees Celcius
while waiting 24 hours or so for the reaction to complete; the result of that
is far less stable acetone peroxide due to lower yields of the trimeric form
and higher yields of the dimeric form).
6) The beaker should now have two layers; a thick oily layer on the top, and a
translucent white, relatively thin liquid on the bottom. The thick oily layer
on top is the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. All traces of
acid must now be removed. Pour this beaker into a 300mL beaker. Then slowly
add 200mL of NaHCO3 solution. Stir vigorously for five minutes; try to keep
the size of the pockets of the oily liquid (the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide) as small as possible when stirring.
7) Most of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide will now begin
to sink to the bottom of the beaker. Extract it with a syringe. Some will also
remain on the surface; extract this also with a syringe (it is possible to
isolate the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide by decantation, but
this process can be very time consuming, frusturating, and will not be able to
harvest nearly as much of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
as the syringe extraction method).
If you wish to further deacidify the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide, place it in an airtight aluminum container, in an ice bath
(extremely important!). Leave the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in the airtight
aluminum container until bubbles no longer form. A safer alternative to this
process is to add noon-crumpled pieces of aluminum foil to the anhdrous
dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (also in an ice bath); however this will
often make it difficult to recollect all of the anhdrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide, due to it sticking to the pieces of aluminum foil; it can be
very difficult to remove from that surface.
9) Now pour the deacidified anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
into an open glass, or plastic (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!). Let
it stay in the open at temperatures around 15 degrees Celcius to allow most of

the water to evaporate off.
10) Now that the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is dehydrated,
it is ready for use.
STORAGE: Pour the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into a sealed
plastic container (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!) for storage. The
reason for sealing it is to prevent loss of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide due to evaporation. The lower the temperatures are during
storage, the better, with the exception of temperatures so low that it freezes
the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide.
Density of MEKP = 1.0g/cm3
Freezing point = approximately -5 to -10 degrees Celcius
Dimeric 2-peroxybutane explodes upon contact with concentrated sulfuric acid.
It seems that dimeric 2-peroxybutane (MEKP) is more stable than previously
thought. It does not explode unless severely shocked. I have tried to explode
as much as 4mL using only fuse, and that resulted in nothing but a tall pillar
of flame. It does explode with a sharp crack when hit *hard* with a hammer. I
suggest using aqueous ammonia instead of sodium hydrogen carbonate for
neutralizing acid.
A dimeric 2-peroxybutane / ammonium nitrate dynamite:
11mL (or grams) of dimeric 2-peroxybutane mixed with 100g of ammonium nitrate.
8.44 Nitrourea:
This is a simple ketonitramine which is very easy to make. Its main (only?)
drawback is the fact that it is easily decomposed in the presence of moisture,
and therefore must be kept absolutely anhydrous for increased storage
stability. This is a two stage synthesis, first forming Urea Nitrate, which is
also an explosive.
I can't find density values for either of them at the moment, but Urea Nitrate
has a max. VoD of around 4500 m/s and Nitrourea can get up to about 7000 m/s.
I have not found the zinc salt of Nitrourea to be very useful, so I will not
include it unless people actually want me to.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate.
Materials:
30g of urea (cheaper lawn fertilisers, such as Wilkinson's own brand, are pure
urea.),
Distilled water,
Acetone,
Three 150mL beakers,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
A fridge,
Filter papers.
Procedure:
1) Put the urea in a 150mL beaker, and add 40mL of distilled water. Stir it
with the thermometer until it has dissolved - it gets quite cold, so you'll
need to warm it, or have a bit of patience.
2) Measure out the nitric acid into the other 150mL beaker.
3) Cool the nitric acid, and the urea solution, to 5*C in the fridge, or in an
ice bath.
4) Slowly, while stirring with the thermometer, mix the two liquids, while
keeping the temperature below 20*C.
5) Filter out the precipitate, and discard the solution.
6) Add the precipitate to 100mL of acetone in the third 150mL beaker, and stir
it around with the thermometer.
7) Filter the Urea Nitrate out, and let it dry in a warm place.
Step #2: The production of Nitrourea.
You will need:
60g of Urea Nitrate,
90mL of conc. sulphuric acid,
Distilled water,
Alcohol,
Ice,
A salt/ice bath,
A hot water bath,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
Filter papers,
Two 250mL beakers,
A 500mL beaker.
1) Measure the sulphuric acid into a 250mL beaker, and cool it to -5*C in the
salt/ice bath.
2) Slowly, while stirring and keeping the temperature below 0*C, add the Urea
Nitrate.
3) 5 minutes after all the Urea Nitrate has been added, dump the mixture into
300mL of ice/water in the 500mL beaker.
4) Filter out the precipitate, and put it into the second 250mL beaker,
containing 50mL of alcohol.
5) Heat this to the boiling point of the alcohol using the hot water bath, and
while stirring add more alcohol, slowly, until all the Nitrourea has
dissolved.
6) Chill this solution to 0*C in the salt/ice bath, filter out the precipitate
and rinse it with cold alcohol.
7) Dry it in warm, dry air to prevent condensation of water on the
precipitate.
8) The Nitrourea will now be pure, and can be stored for years in hard glass
bottles if kept dry.
9) It's a good idea to keep it SLIGHTLY acidic, since alkalis accelerate it's
decomposition when moist.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate:
Yield, based on the amount of urea used:
Amount of urea used: 30.0 grams.
Theoretical yield: 61.5 grams.

Experimental yield: 55.5 grams.
Step #2: The conversion of Urea Nitrate to Nitrourea:

Yield, based on the amount of Urea Nitrate used:
Amount of Urea Nitrate used: 60.0 grams.
Theoretical Yield: 51.2 grams.
Experimental Yield: 30.4 grams.
Possible improvements:
Not much really. As with Hexamethylenetetramine Dinitrate, the liquid left
after making one batch of Urea Nitrate can be used to dissolve the urea for
the next batch, so that less Urea Nitrate is lost in the solution
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene:
This was once considered as a high explosive for use in artillery shells; as
far as I know, the only reasons why it was not used are the facts that it was
more expensive than Trinitrotoluene, and it didn't have the advantage of being
safely castable. It is as stable as Trinitrotoluene and has the same oxygen
balance.
VoD is 7013 m/s at 1.60 g/cm3, therefore its relative briscancy under these
conditions is 0.96.
Materials:
105g of napthalene,
320mL of 98% sulphuric acid,
5% sodium bicarbonate solution,
Ethanol,
A 250mL beaker,
A 1.5L beaker,
A 3L container,
A hot water bath,
An ice bath,
A thermometer,
A filter funnel,
Filter papers.
Procedures:
Step #1: The production of mononitronapthalene.
1) Add 30g of powdered napthalene to 50mL of water in a 250mL beaker. Stir it
around, and mix it together as good as you can (water and napthalene do not
like mixing!)
2) Slowly add 80mL of the sulphuric acid, while stirring with the thermometer,
and then add 60mL of the 70% nitric acid.
Do not let the temperature rise above 30*C during either of the additions.
3) Slowly stir in a further 75g of napthalene, keeping the temperature at
around 50*C using the ice bath and hot water bath. Hold it at this
temperature, while stirring, for half an hour.
4) Heat the mixture to 60*C for 3 minutes, then let it cool to room
temperature.
5) Remove the solidified mononitronapthalene from the surface of the liquid.
This can be used in the next steps to make Tetranitronapthalene, or purified
by stirring it around under 75*C 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, then several
washes under hot water, if it is going to be used to make Cheddites.
Step #2: The production of 1,8-Dinitronapthalene.
1) In a 1.5L beaker surrounded by an ice bath, cool 160mL of sulphuric acid to
around 15*C.
2) Slowly stir in 80mL of 70% nitric acid, keeping the temperature below 30*C.
3) Crush the mononitronapthalene from the previous step as finely as you can,
and slowly stir it into the sulphuric acid/nitric acid mixture, keeping the
temperature below 40*C.
4) After all the mononitronapthalene has been added, stir it occaisionally for
half an hour, keeping the temperature at 20*C - 30*C.
5) After this time, slowly warm the mixture to 70*C, while stirring
vigorously. This warming should last about half an hour.
6) Hold the temparature between 65*C and 75*C for half an hour, while
stirring.
7) Let the mixture cool to room temperature, and dump it into 1L of cold water
in a 3L container. Let the product settle.
8) Decant off most of the liquid from the product, and slowly add 2L of
distilled water at about 40*C, while stirring. Let the product settle and
repeat the washing..
9) Filter the product out of the liquid, and let it dry.
10) Dissolve as much of the product as possible in near-boiling acetone, and
filter the solution while hot. Cooling the filtrate in the freezer will
precipitate 1,8-Dinitronapthalene (and unreacted Mononitronapthalene, if any)
for the next step. The undissolved solid will be 1,5-Dinitronapthalene, which
can be used in mixtures with Ammonium Nitrate or Chlorates.
Step #3: The production of 1,3,6,8-Tetranitronapthalene.
1) Chill 60mL of 95% nitric acid in a 500mL beaker, using a salt/icbath.
2) Once the acid is below 0*C, begin the addition of 80mL of 98% sulphuric
acid, while stirring, keeping the temperature below 30*C.
3) After the acids have been mixed, add 20g of the powdered 1,8Dinitronapthalene, as obtained above. Add it slowly, with rapid stirring,
keeping the temperature between 25*C and 30*C.
4) After the addition, leave the mixture at room temperature for one hour,
with occaisional stirring.]
5) After this time, slowly heat the mixture, while stirring rapidly, to 70*C
to 80*C. This heating should be done over the period of about one hour, and
the final temperature should be
maintained, with stirring, for at least one
further hour.
6) Cool the mixture and dump it into roughly three times its volume of cold
distilled water.
7) Filter out the solids, wash them a few times with distilled water, and dry
them.
8) Recrystalise them from ethanol.
9.0 Bombs
The info in this chapter are the experiences and procedures that other
people have used. There are no guarantees about making these bombs.
9.1 C02 bomb:
C02 bombs(crater makers) are pretty much little hand grenades. They are
also called crater makers because if you shove one in the ground and light it,
there will be a small crater after it goes off. These little bastards are
very useful and can be used for many other explosive devises.
Materials:
-Empty C02 cartridge
-any fast burning gunpowder or flash powder
-long cannon fuse(6+ inches)
-J-B Weld
-screw driver
-really small funnel
Instructions:
Take an empty C02 cartridge and widen the hole in the top with the screw
driver as much as you can. Fill the C02 cartridge up with powder using the
funnel. When it fills up with powder, tap the C02 cartridge on something hard
so the powder packs down. Then put some more powder in, then tap it some
more. Put the long cannon fuse in when you cant get anymore powder in. Now
make a batch of J-B Weld and put some on the top of the C.M. so the fuse and
powder wont come out. Let it dry. Pick a big open field, where no one with
call the cops. Shove the C.M. in the ground and light it. Now RUN!You dont
want to be by that shit when it goes off!
Tips:
-You can also use a rocket igniter and a power source as a fuse for better
control and safety. Just make sure the wire running from the C.M. to the
power source in REALLY long.
-Put some modeling clay on the outside of the C.M. then press some BBs or
ball bearing into it; if you really want to fuck shit up!.I might warn you,
if you get hit by the BBs or whatever when it goes off, youll probley DIE.
-Tape the C.M. to a can of starter fluid or a can of butane, for an added
explosion.
9.2 Cherry Bomb:

These things kick ass! They can be pretty loud and dont throw
shrapnel, unless you bury it in rocks.
Materials:
-ping-pong ball
-flash powder or other fast burning powder
-long cannon fuse
-J-B Weld
-red nail polish(optional)
-screw driver
Instructions:
Punch a hole in the ping-pong ball with the screw driver, and fill it
with flash powder. Shove the fuse in the hole and fill in the hole around the
fuse with J-B Weld. Let it dry. Now paint the C.B. with the nail polish,
Ive heard the nail polish gives it an extra bang.
*Note:
As with a C.M., you can use a rocket igniter setup instead of a fuse.
9.3 Dry Ice Bomb:

MATERIALS
-Dry Ice
-PLASTIC Bottle(s)
-Water
*You can get dry ice from an ice cream manufacturer or something.
INSTRUCTIONS
-Fill PLASTIC Bottle 2/3 With Water
-Place Several Chunks Of Dry Ice Inside
-Cap Tightly & Quickly
*NOTE
-Bigger The PLASTIC Bottle The Bigger The Boom
-Large Mouthed Bottles Dont Explode
-Submerse 1/2 Way In Pool, To Rattle Your Neighbors House
*Water Is Not Required, It Only Accelerates The Process
The Less Water Used, The More Dry Ice Is Needed.
*BE CAREFUL, these things will mess you up if they go of in your hand or near
you!
9.4 Sparkler Bomb:

Materials:
-#7 sparlers(3 or 4 bricks worth)
-elctrical tape
Instructions:
Settle in with a coke or something and start unboxing the sparklers. The
number of sparklers per bundle determine the loudness of the explosion.... so
keep this in mind when you make them. I have found that 12 per bundle make for
a nice level of percussion... altho 48 sparklers per bundle can literally "
ROCK THE HOUSE"!! The best bang for your bucks is about 32 per bundle. After
60, there is no increase in percussion and you are basically wasting sparklers
( the outer ones get destroyed before they ignite ).
Unbox the number of sparklers you have decided upon, and bundle them up
into a circular form. Locate the most center sparkler and pull it out of the
bundle by about 2 - 2.5 inches ( if you run slow make it 3.5" ) this becomes
the fuse. Once you have the bundle set, begin wrapping the bundle with
electrical tape starting at the top of the bundle ( not at the fuse tip, but
where the fuse enters the bundle) wrap the tape tightly around the bundle
going towards the bottom of the bundle stopping at the wires. Continue
wrapping the bundle back up towards the top and then back to the bottom again.
This should result in 3 layers of black tape. Take a few extra inches of black
tape and lightly cover the top of the bundle ( this helps in keeping the
sparks from falling on the top of the bundle as you are lighting the fuse and
causing a premature explosion). Once you have the black tape on the bundle,
its time to wrap the unit with the strapping tape. This is done pretty much
the same way as the black tape but you use 4 layers of this tape. ( this tape
increases the explosion force).
Once you have taped the assembly, take one of the wires extending from
the bottom of the bundle and wrap it around the existing wire handles ( this
helps in reducing the wire shrapnel that WILL occur if you dont wrap) next...
take another wire handle and wrap it around the existing wires about 1/2 way
between the bundle and end of the wires. To be really "safe" wrap a few turns
of black tape around the base of the bundle where you wrapped the first wire.
Most sparklers are difficult to light with a Bic lighter or such, a
propane torch works very well... its faster, easier and quicker.
When you plan to "use" the finished product, keep in mind that they are
quite capable of extreme forces. The wires are the most prominent threat. To
reduce the chance of getting "nailed", force the handle section of the unit
into the ground. DO NOT place these things inside of pipes, glass containers,
or items that can shatter ( I think the word is hand grenade). Also DO NOT
place near containers holding materials that can burn, explode, or cause a
problem. Remember, the local authorities dont understand people who enjoy
percussive articles :) .
WARNING
These things can be REALLY loud! They are strong. And they will remove
the grass from the area of detonation. A 32 bundle will clear the grass down
to the mud with about a 15" diameter spot.
If you are within several feet of
the unit when it goes off, there is a good chance of perminent hearing loss
( aka blown eardrums) and several serious wounds. sooooo...
best advice
be at least 20-30ft(minimum) away from it. If it is true that the old style
CherryBombs, Silver Salutes , M-80's etc. are equal to a 1/4 stick of
dynamite...then these things are equal to a 3/4 stick. DO NOT HOLD THESE
THINGS IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!! you will LOOSE whatever is in contact with the
eplosion.
WHAT to Expect...
The fuse takes about 3-5 seconds to reach the top of the bundle, once it
hits the top, a yellowish flame spurts out for about 1/2 a second. When you
see this flame spurt out, the time has come :)
There is a bright white flash
and a fair amount of smoke produced when it ignites. After effects are
neighbors saying "What the hell was that ? " , you standing there saying
" HOLY sheeet !!!" The remains of the unit, if firmly planted in the ground,
will be many wires spread outward along the ground and the fuse wire standing
up, the local area devoid of vegitation.
9.5 Tennis ball bomb:

Ingredients:
Strike anywhere matches or FFFFg BP

A tennis ball
A nice sharp knife
Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff
all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then
tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when
you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a
blast!!
9.6 Mail Box Bomb:
-Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
-Small amount of sugar
-Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that
such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20
feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught,
it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is
up to the city.
9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb:
By far, the most common smoke formula is the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula.
It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make.
The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary
somewhat depending
on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.
A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produced the

smoke cloud on the right in under 2 seconds.
Potassium Nitrate
60 %
Sugar
40 %
Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed
together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together
does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb.
To melt the mixture together, you'll need small metal saucepan or other
heat resistant container, and an electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is
preferred to an open flame heat source because it's a tad safer, and easier to
prevent overheating of the mixture. The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and
over a LOW heat until it just starts to melt. Heating it too quickly, or at
too high a temperature will cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a
giant mess, not to mention a fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done
outside just in case you overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture
begins to melt, it will turn brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy (see
image above)... after all, you are melting Sugar ( and no, you can't eat it ).
A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....
Procedure:
Start by making a small size batch (50 grams total). Measure out 30
grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar into a small cup. For those
of you who cut math class, 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar
is still a 60% / 40% mixture. If you make a batch larger than 50 grams, it
will be very difficult to mix and heat evenly. You can always make more, so
don't mix up a giant batch.
Snap a lid on the container and shake to mix the two chemicals together.
Pour the mixture into a heat resistant container and set it on your hot plate.
Set the hot plate temperature to medium-high, and about every 30 seconds
or so, stir the mixture well, being sure to scrape the material that may start
sticking to the bottom.
Over the next several minutes, the mixture will begin to darken and
clump. It will soon begin to look like brown sugar, and when it finally mixes
smoothly and looks like peanut butter, it is done. If you mixture is turning
BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a temperature.
Remove the container from the heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky
mass. You can either just plop some on the concrete, or if you're picky about
the way your smoke bombs look, you can make small cardboard molds and press
the gooey mass into them. Personally, we just lay it on the concrete.
Before the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Visco Safety Fuse.
Do this to the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.
In about 5 minutes, the material will be cool and become rock hard
( beware that it will stick to the surface while cooling, but is easily
removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your Smoke Bomb away from any
flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.
*see the pyrotechnics section of this book for the other better smoke
formulas.
9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb:

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be
found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks
like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly.
The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate, which is
similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode
from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
9.9 Firebombs (Molotov cocktail):
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked
rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov
cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one
part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use
one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which
were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
9.10 Generic Bomb:
-Acquire a glass container.

-Put in a few drops of gasoline.
-Cap the top.
-Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates.
-Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite
kit)
-The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about stick of
dynamite.
9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute):

These can be really cool, depending on how you make them. They dont
usually do much damage like other bombs, but theyre pretty easy to make; but
I would not be near it when it goes off.
Materials:
-plastic soda bottle with a screw-on cap (the bigger bottle, the louder the
boom!)
-box of Picallo Peat fireworks
-nail
-knive or razor blade
Instructions:
Open up a picallo peat using a razor blade, save the fuse. Pour the
powder in the soda bottle, make sure the bottle is dry! Poke a hole in the
cap with the nail and shove the fuse in the cap a little less than half way.
Screw the cap on the bottle real tight. Stand the bottle up somewhere. Light
the fuse and back up.
*Note: The more powder and the bigger the bottle you use, the bigger the
boom. Other powder can be used instead of the insides of picallo peats; any
fast burning powder will work.
9.12 THERMITE BOMB:

Use this carefully !-Thermite Burns at over 5000 deg. F.
9.13 soda bottle bomb:
Take a 2 liter plastic soda bottle and fill about a quarter of it with
Muramic Acid (pool acid). After this you have to work fast! Drop some aluminum
foil strips into the bottle and put the cap on. Shake it up a bit and throw
it. It will create a gas and explode. The fumes are very hazardous, so make
sure you wont harm anyone unless you intend to.
10.0 pyrotechnics:
Why buy all those wussy fireworks on the 4th, and waste money when you
can make your own that are way better?! Before making any pyrotechnic devise,
refer to the safety section of this book...and read the following:
[*Warning detail taken from http://www.unitednuclear.com/.]
PAY ATTENTION... OR DIE!
First of all... EVERYTHING IS DANGEROUS!
Even if you're just boiling some water, sure as hell, some spaz out
there is going to bump into the pot and pour the boiling hot water all over
themselves, get third degree burns, and die. (and of course blame it on the
person who told them to boil the water) Now add some high energy chemicals,
like Oxidizers and Metal Powders, not to mention some Radioactive material,
and you've got a real recipe for disaster. Any chemistry experiment, no
matter how simple it may seem, has the potential of being dangerous... even if
you follow directions exactly as stated. The firework formulas always require
special attention, for if any pyrotechnic formula ignites unexpectedly, it
generally can't be extinguished fast enough. Pyrotechnic (firework)
compositions have their own oxygen supply, so they can't be smothered once
ignited. Although large quantities of water will extinguish most slower
burning compositions, there are even some where the addition of water makes
them burn even faster. Some formulas like Flash Powder burn so fast, it's
almost instantaneous. If a quantity of it ignites while you're mixing it,
before you can blink your eye, move your hand, or turn your face, the skin
will have already been burnt off your body. Pyrotechnic mixtures are
sensitive to shock... don't bang on them. They are sensitive to friction...
don't grind them... and of course if a spark or flame touches them, they'll
ignite or explode too. USE COMMON SENSE! Anything that burns has the
potential of exploding, so never put a pyrotechnic composition in a glass or
metal container. To do so is asking for death. If you're going to mix any of
these formulas, make sure you know what you're doing and have a large bucket
of water nearby.
- Avoid using large quantities -
- Only ignite the mixture outdoors -Follow any special warnings given Only ignite pyrotechnic mixtures or completed fireworks with a fuse,
never just throw a match in the mix or on the firework.
10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas:
10.1-1 Smoke formulas:
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such
as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will
burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a
base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has
a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other
excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground
plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be
mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of
the fuel oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke
when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The
trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic
cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the
smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to
burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic
containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites,
producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion.
White smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
Charcoal..........................................5
Sulfur............................................10
Wood dust.........................................3
-orcomments: This is the easiest smoke formula to make.
Preparation: Melt the two chemicals together on LOW heat and stir it till it
turns brown and
smooth.
sugar..............................................2
potassium nitrate..................................3
Red smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
para-nitroaniline red.............................65
Lactose...........................................20
Green smoke:
Comments:
Preparation:
Synthetic indigo..................................26
Auramine (yellow).................................15
Lactose...........................................26
Comments: Different sources mention differnt compositions. The most often
mentioned one is given here.
Preparation: The mixture is most succesfull when prepared by melting the sugar
and potassium nitrate together on low heat, but this requires good stirring,
and there is a risk of accidential ignition. The molten mixture can be poured
in cardboard containers and a fuse insterted while the mixture solidifies.
Sugar.............................................50
Comments: The mixture is difficult to ignite. Hexachloroethane is poisonous,
and can be replaced by 72 parts PVC. This, however, makes the mixture yet
harder to ignite. The zinc oxide can be replaced by titanium dioxide (2 parts
ZnO replaced by 1 part TiO2). The smoke is slightly irritating and not
suitable for indoor use.
Preparation:
Zinc oxide........................................45
Hexachloroethane..................................45
Aluminum..........................................10
Comments:
Preparation:
Zinc powder.......................................35
CCl4..............................................41
Zinc oxide........................................20
Comments:
Preparation:
Zinc powder.......................................25
CCl4..............................................50
Zinc oxide........................................20
Preparation:
Zinc..............................................69
Hexachlorobenzene.................................12
10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches:

Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for soldiers. by
putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the
ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials
that produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR
MATERIAL
USED IN
_____
________
_______
______________________________________________________________________________
_
red
strontium
road flares,
salts
red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
green
barium salts
green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
yellow
sodium salts
gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
______________________________________________________________________________
_
blue
powdered copper
blue sparklers,
old pennies
______________________________________________________________________________
_
white
powdered magnesium
firestarters,
or aluminum
aluminum foil
______________________________________________________________________________
_
purple
potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage
______________________________________________________________________________
_
Fire dust:
Comments: The composition spreads a large amount of long lived orange fire
dust particles. The lifetime of those particles depends mainly on the
consistency and type of charcoal.
Preparation: The components must be intimately mixed. This can be done by
dissolving the potassium nitrate in a minimum amount of boiling water, adding
the charcoal and sulfur and precipitating the potassium nitrate in the form of
fine particles by adding a large amount of isopropyl alcohol and cooling the
solution as fast as possible to 0C, followed by filtering and drying.
Charcoal..........................................35
Sulfur............................................7
Blue fire composition #2:

Comments:
Preparation:
Copper ammonium chloride..........................5
Stearin...........................................2
Asphaltum.........................................1
Comments: Burns at a moderate rate with a nice deep red color.
Preparation:
Comments:
Preparation:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................7
Sulfur............................................2
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................9
Orange shellac powder.............................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................7
Charcoal..........................................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Powdered antimony.................................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................1
Charcoal..........................................2
Sodium chloride...................................3

Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Sodium carbonate..................................3
Purple fire composition:
Preparation:
Copper sulfate....................................1
Sulfur............................................1
Magnesium flare:
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................38
Magnesium.........................................50
Laminac...........................................5
Green torch #1:

Comments: Note that calomel is a very toxic compound.
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................5
Barium nitrate....................................4
Shellac...........................................1
Calomel...........................................2
Green torch #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................5
K.D. Gum..........................................2
Sulfur............................................3
Blue torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel and Paris green are both very toxic compounds.
Preparation:
Copper acetoarsenite (Paris Green)................2
Dextrin...........................................1
Calomel...........................................1
Blue torch #2:
Comments: This mixture is incompatible with nitrates and chlorates due to the
presence of a copper-ammonium compound.
Preparation: 'Sugar of milk' is lactose.
Copper ammonium sulfate...........................6
Sugar of milk.....................................2
Sulfur............................................9
Purple torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel is very toxic.
Preparation:
Copper(II)oxide...................................6
Calomel...........................................3
Sulfur............................................5
Aluminum torch:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine aluminum powder..............................6
Flake Aluminum....................................5
Dextrin or lycopodium.............................1
Red and aluminum torch:
Comments: The composition is a modification of the 'Aluminum torch'. Suggested
dimensions for the torch are 2.22cm diameter and 45cm length.
Preparation: Before ramming, this formula should be moistened with a solution
of 1 part shellac in 16 parts alcohol and 1 part of this solution used to
every 36 parts of composition. As this mixture is somewhat difficult to ignite
it is necessary to scoop out a little from the top of the torch and replace it
with a starting fire composition. Meal powder can be used for that purpose.
Sulfur............................................3
Mixed Aluminum....................................3
Extra bright torch:
Comments: According to the original text: "An aluminum torch of heretofore
unheard of brilliance and giving an illumination, in the 2.54cm size, of what
is said to be 100000 candlepower". Testing with paint grade aluminum revealed
that it burns very bright indeed at a steady slow burnrate and with little
residue. It is easily pressed in tubes.
Preparation: Rub the Vaseline into the barium nitrate. Mix the sulfur and the
aluminum separately. Then mix it with the barium nitrate/vaseline mixture. A
starting fire mixture is required for ignition. The 'starting fire #1'
composition can be used for that purpose.
Barium nitrate....................................38
Mixed Aluminum....................................9
Sulfur............................................2
Vaseline..........................................1
10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY:

In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school
chemistry book.
1.
potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide

K(OH)
+
HClO
---->
KClO
+
H O
4
4
2
2.
potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide

"
+
HNO
---->
KNO
+
"
3
3
3.
ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide

NH OH
+
HClO
---->
NH ClO
+
"
3
4
3
4
4.
ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide

NH OH
+
HNO
---->
NH NO
+
"
3
3
3 3
5.
powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A.
aluminum foil
B.
2AlCl
3
(aq)
+
+
6HCl
3Mg
---->
---->
2AlCl
3
3H
3MgCl (aq)
2
2Al
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container
which must be filtered and dried.
This same method works with nitric and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great
excess.
10.1-4 Rocket propellants:
Rocket propellant #1 ('Candy Propellant'):

Comments: This propellant is often refferred to as "candy propellant" or
white propellant
Preparation: It is best prepared by melting the potassium nitrate and sugar
together, but this is a dangerous operation and could result in accidential
ignition during preperation. Dry mixing is possible and much safer but
produces lower quality propellant.
Sugar.............................................25.5
Comments: The propellant has a burn rate of 0.0385 inch/sec at 100psi and a
burn rate of 0.04 inch/sec at 300psi. Burn temperature is approx. 1800K. and
ISP=180.
Preparation:
Ammonium nitrate..................................85-90%
Elastomeric binder (HTPB or other urethane plastic).....?
Comments: Stinks like ammonia when mixed, and hardens faster than normal epoxy
curing time. Suggestions for rocket dimensions: 1" rocket tube, 3" fuel
length, Durhanms water putty nozzle 3/8" thick, and 5/16" diameter. Core in
center of fuel about 3/8" diameter through the length.
Preparation:
Ammonium perchlorate, 200 micron..................80
Resin (Epon 815 epoxy & curing agent U)...........20
Copper chromite...................................+1%
Comments: Mixture is somewhat hygroscopic. Low impulse propellant.
Preparation:
Sugar.............................................27
Sulfur............................................10
Rocket propellant #6 (KNO3 propellant):

Comments: The burning rate of these rocket fuels depends much less on pressure
Preparation:
Carbon............................................24
Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (NaNO3 propellant):
Comments: The burning rate of this rocket fuels depends much less on pressure
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................69
Carbon............................................27
Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (Zinc/Sulfur):
Comments: Burns very fast, producing lots of smoke. It is not a very effective
propellant due to its low energy density.
Preparation:
Zinc..............................................67.1%
Sulfur............................................32.9%
Space Shuttle Boosters propellant:
Source: NASA homepage
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum powder...................................16
Ammonium perchlorate..............................69.9
Fe2O3 catalyst....................................0.07
Rubber based binder of polybutadine acrylic acidacrylonitrile.....12.04
Epoxy curing agent................................1.96
ESTES C-class rocket engine propellant:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, Composition from 1994 US Dept. of Labour Material
Safety Data Sheet.
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................13.45
Charcoal..........................................13.81
Dextrin...........................................0.95
Blue strobe rocket propellant:
Source: Greg Gallacci< psygreg@u.washington.edu
Comments: The GE silicone II is noted for having an ammonia-like odor, where
the GE silicones smell more like vinegar. The dimensions of the rocket made
with this propellant were 1 1/8 inch ID, with a 1/2 inch core.
Preparation: Mix the copper oxide, PVC and silicone first, in a plastic bag.
Then mix in the ammonium perchlorate. The stuff is said to be somewhat
crumbly, and presses well.
Silicone II.......................................22
Copper(II)oxide...................................10
PVC...............................................5
10.1-5 colored star compositions:

Red star #1:
Comments: The perchlorate can be substituted by chlorate without changing the
color.
Preparation:
Red gum...........................................13
Lampblack.........................................2
Polyvinyl chloride................................2
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5
Red star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, add the other ingredients
and proceed as usual. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry. They can be
dried in the sun or in a vacuum. Smaller stars dry faster.
Shellac...........................................20
Red star #3:
Comments:
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, and add the other
ingredients.
Shellac...........................................20
Green star #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................28.3
Parlon............................................4.7
Red Gum...........................................14.2
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5.6
Green star #2:
Comments: A simple but nice (somewhat yellowish) green.
Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol.
barium nitrate....................................7
potassium chlorate................................7
shellac...........................................2
Blue star #1:
Comments: LNiksch :"These stars burn much faster and more blue than any mix
containing copper carbonate I have tried"
Preparation: Dampen with alcohol/water 70/30 to make cut or pumped stars.
Red gum...........................................9.9
Cupric oxide......................................13.4
Parlon............................................5.4
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch or Dextrin .........5.6 or 4.8
Blue star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Add 25 volume parts of water to dextrin and mix in the other
ingredients. Use more water if necessary.
Sulfur............................................17
Copper(II)oxide...................................20
Dextrin (binder)..................................3
Red gum or Shellac................................6
Purple star #1:
Strontium sulfate.................................10
Copper sulfate....................................5
Lead chloride.....................................2
Charcoal..........................................2
Sulfur............................................12
Purple star #2:
Copper chloride...................................4
Lead chloride.....................................2
Sulfur............................................14
Yellow star #1:
Comments:
Preparation: Mix dextrin with 4 volume parts of water and mix in the other
ingredients.
Sodium hydrogen carbonate.........................2
Dextrin...........................................2
Yellow star #2:
Comments:
Preparation: Bind with shellac in ethanol or dextrin in water.
Sodium oxalate....................................3
Lampblack.........................................2
Orange star #1:

Preparation: Bind with alcohol.
Sodium oxalate....................................8
Shellac powder....................................5
Sulfur............................................3
Orange/Red star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay - "FIMO" will also work, but is
more difficult to mix.
Preparation:
"Sculpy"..........................................22
Fe2O3.............................................2
Salmon color star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay. The result is a salmon-berry

(reddish-orange) color.
Preparation: Warm the sculpy slightly, to make it more mixable and mix it with
the ammonium perchlorate without using solvents. Screen it several times and
make pressed stars. The stars can be baked in an oven at 135C for 20 minutes,
which will result in much harder, more ignitable, more intensely colored
stars. Heating the stars is not recommended though, since it could cause the
stars to ignite.
"Super Sculpy"....................................25
White star #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................40
Dextrin...........................................2
White star #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................32
Sulfur............................................16
Charcoal..........................................12
White star #3:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................1
Brilliant white star:
Comments: Bind with dextrin in water

Preparation:
Aluminum dust.....................................4
Dextrin...........................................1
Veline's green star:

This set of compositions was invented by Robert Veline and is used in
Kosankie's 'Chemistry of Fireworks (Chemistry of color) class'.
blown blind.
Barium nitrate....................................24
Barium carbonate..................................15
Parlon............................................15
Red gum...........................................5
Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................11

Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's blue star:
blown blind.
Copper(II)oxide...................................15
Parlon............................................15
Red gum...........................................9
Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................6
Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's mixed colors:
Comments: These are a few examples of the colors that can be obtained by
mixing a few of Robert Veline's set of star compositions.
Preparation:
Yellow............................................55 green, 45 orange
Chartreuse........................................80 green, 20 orange
Aqua..............................................80 green,20 blue
Turquoise.........................................55 green, 45 blue
Magenta...........................................50 red, 50 blue
Maroon............................................85 red, 15 blue
Peach.............................................60 orange, 25 red, 15 blue
Purple............................................5 orange, 15 red, 80 blue
Electric star #4:

Source: "The Pyroguide" (a document found on internet)
Comments:
Preparation: Bind with shellac in alcohol.
Aluminum, medium..................................2
Dextrin...........................................1
Firefly #1:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Eric Eisack.
Comments:
Preparation: Aluminum is large flake. It was sieved through a windowscreen.

This gives about 30 mesh powder.
Charcoal,air float................................29
Charcoal, 80 mesh.................................10.5
Sulfur............................................6
Aluminum (large flake)............................4.5
Dextrin or CMC....................................+5 or +1
Firefly #2:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Dan Bucciano.
Comments: Can also be used as rocket propellant: Mix the chemicals, dampen,
and granulate through a 20 mesh screen and dry. Use +3% by weight as a tail
effect. Once you have passed the top core of the rocket by 1/2 inch, you may
ram 100% firefly formula the rest of the way. You will end up with a beautiful
long trailing tail of firefly.
Preparation:
Air Float Charcoal................................33
Antimony tri-sulfide..............................5.8
Aluminum (400 mesh,12 micron, spherical)..........4.2
Sulfur............................................4.7
Dextrin...........................................5.2
Firefly #3:
Source: PML Digest 391, post by L.Niksch< LNiksch@aol.com. This formula is
provided with the "firefly aluminum" from Skylighter.
Comments:
Preparation: Ball mill potassium nitrate, Air Float charcoal, sulfur and
Dextrin together for 1 hour. Then add the 36 mesh Charcoal and firefly
aluminum and mix with a spoon. Add water to make a dough mix and cut with a
knife into 3/8" cut stars. Separate stars and dry for 3-4 days. The effect is
a long tiger tail going up and firefly sparkles coming down. Larger stars take
longer to dry, and a damp star produces very little firefly effect.
Charcoal, 36 Mesh.................................11
Sulfur............................................9
Dextrin...........................................10
Aluminum, firefly.................................5
Glitter star:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive, post by Tommy Hakomaki
<tommy.hakomaki@mailbox.swipnet.se
Comments:
Preparation: Wet with ethanol/water (70/30)
Aluminum 200-400 mesh.............................5
Dextrin...........................................4
Antimony(III)sulfide..............................16
Sulfur............................................10
Lampblack.........................................10
White comet #1:

Comments:
Preparation:
Fine charcoal.....................................44
Sulfur............................................15
Dextrin...........................................10
White comet #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine charcoal.....................................24
Sulfur............................................8
Dextrin...........................................9
the circumstances.

the circumstances.
'Dragon eggs' star (Crackling star):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Composition from "The best of AFN III"[12], page 121
Comments: Sometimes, Bi2O3 is used instead of Pb3O4. The composition is
extremely sensitive, both to friction and impact. It is also quite poisonous
and explosive. Gloves and an air mask must be worn at all times when handling
this mixture since the mixture contains the very toxic Pb3O4.
Preparation: Add lacquer untill the thickness is like wood putty. Pass the mix
through a screen and dry it to make 1mm squares. These will explode with a
sharp crack shortly after lighting and can be used as star cores.
Pb3O4.............................................81.8
Magnalium (50/50, 100-200 Mesh)...................9.1
Copper(II)oxide...................................9.1
Nitrocellulose lacquer binder.....................10% by volume
Blue star with charcoal tail:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by sweden <sweden@synchron.ct.se. Source of
this composition is Bruce Snowden
Comments:
Preparation: Add isopropyl alcohol for binding. Cut, round and pumped stars
can be made with this composition, but a typical KClO4/Red
gum/Charcoal/dextrin prime will be necessary. A final layer of sodium
nitrate/sulfur/Charcoal (85/5/10), moistened with NC/acetone lacker (w. about
3% NC) can be added. This adds yellowish sparks. Mealpowder can be used
instead if the yellow sparks are not desired.
Basic copper carbonate............................10
Red Gum...........................................10
Charcoal..........................................10
Dextrin...........................................+5
Electric purple star:
Source: Quoted in an AFN Yearbook from David Bleser on "Protecting Electric
Puple Decomposition"
Comments: When very fine powdered ammonium perchlorate was used in a an
attempt to try to increase the burning rate of stars an ammoniacal smell and
an increase in temperature was noticed. The batch of stars was safely disposed
of. By adding 5% potassium dichromate and 1% boric acid the reactions were
prevented.
Preparation:
Copper benzoate...................................8
Magnalium (200-400 Mesh)..........................5
Hexamine..........................................7
Dextrin...........................................+5
Brilliant core:
Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of
a strong flash of light. The cores burn quickly and are
they are unevenly ignited. To prevent that, these cores
'Brilliant core prime' (see miscellaneous compositions)
round stars. It gives

self propelled when
should be coated with
untill they are round.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................66
Aluminum, fine flake..............................27
Boric acid........................................1
Silver star core:
Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of round stars. It burns
less quickly than the brilliant core, and produces a silver flame.
Preparation:
Rosin (BL combustion agent).......................5
Lampblack.........................................2
Silver wave:

Comments: This composition produces a silver fire dust. A large silver fire
dust flame of short duration is obtained. When the ratio perchlorate to
aluminum is changed to 35/65 a small flame with yellowish fire dust of long
duration is obtained.
Preparation:
Golden wave #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221
Comments:
Preparation:
Antimony trisulfide...............................9
Boric acid........................................1
Golden wave #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................9
Boric acid........................................1
the circumstances.
the circumstances.
10.1-6 smoke star compositions:
Red smoke star:

Source: Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars,
red"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................20
Rhodamine B conc..................................30
Oil orange........................................22

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 229. Listed as "Yellow dragon"
Comments: The smoke is more dense than that of dye smoke, but it looks dark
yellow against the light of the sun. The smoke is poisonous.
Preparation: Make pressed stars.
Sulfur............................................16
Realgar...........................................59
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White willow"
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................48.5
Realgar...........................................3
Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................+2%
Green smoke star:

compositions for stars, green"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................27
Oil yellow (Butter yellow)........................20
Blue smoke star:
compositions for stars, blue"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................27
Violet smoke star:

compositions for stars, Violet"
Comments:
Milk sugar........................................25
Rhodamine B conc..................................13
Oil orange........................................16
I"
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................7
Lampblack.........................................8
II"
Comments:
Preparation:
Realgar...........................................13
Lampblack.........................................5
10.1-7 flash charges:

Flash #1:
Comments: The sulfur can be replaced by antimony trisulfide and the sound of a
salute made with this composition will change very little.
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................23
sulfur............................................27
Flash #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum (dark pyro)..............................30
Flash #3:
Comments: Larger percentage of aluminum results in a stronger flash. This
composition is slightly less sensitive than the usual perchlorate mixtures
which also contain sulfur.
Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................65...70%
Aluminum powder...................................rest (up to 100%)
Flash #4:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum, 400 mesh................................3
Sulfur............................................1
Flash #5:
Comments: This is a relatively safe flash composition. Burns with a brilliant

white light in an open tube, or when unconfined. When well confined, it
produces a loud, low pitched report and a short but intense flash.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................30
Aluminum..........................................20
Flash #6:
Comments: Can be ignited by a fairly low temperature flame, and produces a
greenish flash when magnesium is used. Burns very fast, and produces a loud
report even in an open container.
Preparation:
Magnesium or Aluminum.............................1
Barium sulfate....................................1
Flash #7:
Comments: Relatively insensitive.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4
Alumium (fine mesh)...............................2
sulfur............................................1
Smokeless flash powder:
Comments:
Preparation:
Zirconium.........................................28
Zirconium hydride.................................7
Magnesium.........................................7
Barium nitrate....................................30
Barium oxyde......................................25
Rice starch.......................................5
Photoflash:
temperature: 700C, impact sensitivity test: 26% of TNT. half a pound of this
flash delivers 120 million candlepowder. It is used in the M120A1 and M112A1
flare cartdriges.
Preparation:
Aluminum (20 micron; atomized)....................40
Potassium perchlorate (24 micron).................30
Barium nitrate (150 micron).......................30
Purple Flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................10
Cupric oxide......................................3
PVC...............................................1
Yellow flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................1
Sodium nitrate....................................6
Green flash:
Comments:
Preparation:
barium nitrate....................................3
Aluminum powder...................................5
10.1-8 burst charges:
H3 Bursting charge:
Comments: This energetic burst charge is used for small diameter shells (2...3
inch), since it makes a large and symmetrical burst possible. Besides the
composition below, a ratio of chlorate to hemp coal of 10:3 is also popular.
The sensitivity of this mixture to shock and friction is unexpectedly low, as
long as the composition does not come into contact with sulfur or sulfur
compounds.
Preparation:
Comments: This energetic burst charge can be used for small shells, but is
unsuitable for the smallest diameters (2...3 inch). It is much safer to handle
than the H3 bursting charge since it contains no chlorates.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................12
Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as burst charge No. 5. This
compositions sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black
powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1. This burst charge is often used in
shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).
Preparation:

black powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of
the Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1. This burst charge is often
used in shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).
Preparation:
Potassium
Hemp coal
Potassium
Glutinous
perchlorate.............................70
(or Paulownia coal).....................30
bichromate..............................5
rice starch.............................+2%

black powder. The explosive force of this composition is higher than that of
the Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1, especially when the particle
size of the carbon is small.
Preparation:
Lampblack.........................................25
Potassium bichromate..............................+5%
10.1-9 whistle mixtures:
Whistle mix #1:

Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium salicylate.................................27.5
Whistle mix #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium dinotrophenate..........................70
Whistle mix #3:

Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium benzoate...................................30
Whistle mix #4:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sodium chlorate...................................10
Sodium salicylate.................................10
Paraffin oil......................................10
Ferric oxide......................................+0.2
Whistle mix #5:
Comments: This mixture is quite sensitive to friction and shock.
Preparation:
Gallic acid.......................................25
10.1-10 priming compositions:

Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4
Sulfur............................................1
Shellac...........................................1
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium permanganate............................54
Powdered iron.....................................47
Comments: Suitable for priming most stars. Chlorate stars or stars containing
ammonium compounds should never be primed with this composition. It can be
stored in small plastic containers.

Preparation:
Potassium nitrate, fine, sieved...................75
Sulfur, fine (preferably flour)...................10
Charcoal, fine, sieved............................15
Comments: Suitable for priming stars. Aluminum and manganese dioxide aid in
ignition, but are not necessary.
Preparation:
Charcoal, fine....................................15
Red gum...........................................4
Manganese dioxide (optional) .....................9
Aluminum, (fine flake or pyro grade; optional)....4
Dextrin...........................................2
Comments: This type of prime helps reduce the friction and impact sensitivity
of chlorate stars which is especially important when shells fire from the
mortar and experience set-back or "kick" from lift acceleration.
Preparation:
Silicon or Aluminum...............................9
Dextrin...........................................3
Comments: This prime is safe to use with chlorate stars and gives a much
better color than a black powder prime. The difference is most noticable on
red stars which tend to a dark salmon color when primed with black powder.
Preparation: Dissolve the potassium nitrate in hot water and mix with the
charcoal.
Charcoal..........................................30
Lampblack.........................................10
Binder............................................+5%
Comments: A standard black powder priming cannot be used with stars that
contain ammonium perchlorate, since a double decomposition reaction forms the
highly hygroscopic ammonium nitrate. This makes the stars unignitable.
Replacing the potassium nitrate prime by this priming composition solves that
problem.
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................80
Paulownia coal....................................15
Sulfur............................................5
Comments: Used for strobe stars of ammonium perchlorate base to prevent
nitrates from the outer priming to react with the ammonium perchlorate. The
layer should be at least 1-2mm thick.
Preparation:
Rosin (BL combustion agent) or Red gum............12
Hemp coal (or paulownia coal).....................6
Potassium bichromate..............................5
10.1-11 Other compositions:
Golden rain #1:

by the slowly burning lampblack.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................8
Lampblack.........................................5
Golden rain #2:
by the slowly burning lampblack and the iron filings.
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Lampblack.........................................2
Fine iron filings.................................7
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), sulfur based:

book (on page 68). Realgar may be used instead of sulfur, see 'Senko Hanabi
(Japanese sparklers), realgar based' for a realgar based formula. The realgar
based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks.

Preparation:
Charcoal or soot..................................10-20
Sulfur............................................20-30
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), realgar based:
book (on page 68). Sulfur may be used instead of realgar, see 'Senko Hanabi
(Japanese sparklers), sulfur based' for a sulfur based formula. This realgar
based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks than the sulfur based
formula.
Preparation:
Charcoal or soot..................................20
Realgar...........................................45
"Pharaoh Snakes":
Comments: When lighted, this composition produces very voluminous snake-shaped
ash. Mercury compounds are very poisonous, and extreme caution should be
excercised during preparing and handling this composition. Wear gloves at all
times, and use a fume hood.
Preparation: Instructions for making mercuric thiocyanate: 1) Dissolve 64
parts of mercuric nitrate in water, and separately dissolve 36 parts potassium
thiocyanate in water. 2) Mix both solutions, and filtrate to collect the
precipitate that forms upon mixing. 3) Rinse the collected precipitate 3 times
with distilled water, and place it in a warm (not hot) place to dry.
Mercuric thiocyanate..............................100
Dragant...........................................5
arabic gum binder.................................qs

obtained.
Sulfur............................................7
Pine charcoal.....................................33
obtained.
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate....................49
Sulfur............................................6
Pine charcoal.....................................40
"Chrysanthemum of mystery".
Comments: A weak fire dust is obtained since the composition contains no
sulfur. It creates a different and lonely effect.
Pine charcoal.....................................50

Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................13
Charcoal..........................................10
Barium nitrate....................................14
Dextrin...........................................5
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................10
Charcoal..........................................10
Barium nitrate....................................13
Dextrin...........................................4
10.1-12 Sparkler compositions:
Sparkler #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Dextrin...........................................18
Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #3:
Source: Chemical abstracts[14] 122, 59596

Comments: Better visual effect, better spark lifting altitude. lower
combustion rate, and better safety.
Preparation:
Charcoal..........................................5-20
Nitroguanidine....................................10-20
Ti or Mg/Al alloy powder (as spark forming component).....10-20
Fe-powder (spark forming)........................10-30
Potassium nitrate.................................balance
Sparkler #4:
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum..........................................30
Dextrin...........................................10
Sparkler #5:
Comments:
Preparation: Dextrin binder can probably be used.
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Sparkler #6:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................16
Aluminum flitter..................................24
Shellac...........................................3
Sparkler #7:
Comments:
Preparation:
Shellac...........................................1
Sparkler #8:
Comments:
Preparation:
Fine Aluminum.....................................35
Dextrin...........................................15
Sparkler #9:
Comments:
Preparation:
Sulfur............................................2
Charcoal..........................................4
Aluminum..........................................3
Sparkler #10:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original by Bruce Snowden, post by Sweden<
sweden@synchron.ct.se.
Comments: The composition burns very fast and explosively if one doesn't pay
extreme attention towards the diameter of the sparkler. It is found that if
the comp is thinner than 1.8 mm then the propagation stops. If the diameter is
more than 2.0 mm the burning is too fast, sending sparks all the way down to
the ground. Another severe problem is keeping the ingredients mixed in the
suspention. The Ti has a very strong tendensy of ending up in the bottom of
the test tube, making a plug. Another problem is that after the first dipping
and subsequent drying, the second (and last) dipping has to be performed very,
very fast or else the first dipping is spoiled, hence the bound dextrin is
redisolved. Using coarser perchlorate, finer titanium and making the dipping
mixture thicker (by using less solvent) may solve these problems.
Preparation:
Titanium..........................................47
Dextrin...........................................6
Sparkler #11:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Inventor of this composition is Bruce Snowden.
posted by Sweden <sweden@synchron.ct.se
Comments:
Preparation: The aluminum is probably supposed to be atomized, but
experimentation is required.
Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3
Aluminum..........................................2
Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #12:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original is by Bruce Snowden. Posted by Sweden<

sweden@synchron.ct.se
Comments:
Preparation: Guar gum comes from the seeds of the legume Cyanopsis
Psoralioides. It should be possible to substitue red gum.
Dextrin...........................................18
Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #13:
Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224.
Comments:
Preparation: Mix the composition with a 10% dextrin solution in water, and dip
iron wire or wood in the moist compositon. Adding 500 parts strontium nitrate
will produce a red color, adding 60 parts barium nitrate will produce a green
color.
Aluminum granules.................................60
Charcoal..........................................2
Sparkler #14:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Tom137 <tom137@aol.com.Composition from
Weingart[5], p. 190.
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum, finely powdered.........................7
Dextrin...........................................3
Water.............................................20
10.2 FIRECRACKERS:
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space
for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
the
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use

flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
sparkler.
By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material
inside it.
Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't
react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount
of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
10.2-1 salutes:
Salute is just the high tech name for anything that its primary purpose
is to just blow up with a sound. Examples of a salute are firecrackers, M-80's
(which are too powerful to be classified as firecrackers), and aerial salutes
(an aerial shell with a flash powder charge). Salutes are very basic and easy
to make.
M-80s, M-160s, Ash cans, Silver salutes, or any other large salutes are
illegal & have been since 1966. Due to The Child Protection Act. (I think
Cherry bombs were even banned before that in 1965) The use or manufacture of
these will result in serious punishment by law. These Devices are VERY
dangerous, & can easily take fingers or a hand. I do not reccomend trying to
make them! They have been known to just go off any damned time they please.
Traditional salutes had 2-3 grams of a 70/30 mix of Potassium
Perchlorate(KClO4)/Aluminum powder. (400-600 mesh) The larger salutes like the
"Quarter Stick" have about 15 grams of powder in them. (No relation to
dynamite or any other high explosive at all) The M-160s have about 10.
Materials:
-carboard tube
-kraft paper
-elmers glue
-visco fuse
-fast buring gun powder(or other fast burning powder)
Procedure:
I make my own tubes alot of the time. I take a piece of kraft paper I
buy from Walmart. About the same thickness of a grocery bag. 1 & 1/2 inches
wide, & about 18 inches long.
Roll it tightly around a 1/2 inch dowel, with Elmers School Glue on one side
of it, spread somewhat thinly. I then pull it off let it dry, while its
drying, I cut 2, 1/4 in. pieces of the 1/2" dowel. Then I round off one end
to go into tube better. I put a bead of Elmer's glue around the piece of dowel
& stick it in. When the tube is dry, drill the hole in (WITH NO EXPLOSIVE IN
THE TUBE) the tube, the same size of your fuse so it fits snugly,& a little of
you'll never guess what.., Elmer's School Glue around the fuse (around 3 in,
or more) to seal it better. Then put your explosive in about 3/4 of the way
up the tube. Do not fill the tube all the way, & glue the other piece of dowel
in.
If you have commercial tubes, put one plug in, I push mine in with a
dowel, they go in hard. Drill the fuse hole out, glue fuse in again. Fill 3/4
the way with explosive, & carefully push the last plug in with the dowel of
the same size of the inside of the plug. If you just ram it in, it may pack
the powder, decreasing performance. If that happens your just screwed. It may
even go off it you ram it too hard!
10.2-2 Bum Style salute:

Materials:
Casing
Powder
Fuse
Tape
Matches (optional)
Magnesium (optional)
Procedure:
1. Put fuse in. It could be in a hole already in the casing, or make one of an
appropriate size.
2. Pour in powder and anything else (match heads, magnesium ect.)
3. Tape well. Wrap the whole thing in a lot of tape to make it strong. Tape
every area equally and especially make sure the ends are strong.
10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs:
Paper tubes:
Almost any pyrotechnic device is made using paper tubes. Rockets,

lances, shells, fountains, mortars, etc. etc. Tubes can be found or bought,
but sometimes it is better to roll your own tubes.
1. Select a strong, reasonably heavy type of paper.

70lb kraft paper works well and is sold in artists
paint stores.
2. Select a glue. Wallpaper glue may be used, but
I've had little success with it. If you do use it,
use far less water than the package tells you to use.
I personally prefer white glue. It makes strong
casings and dries quickly.
3. Place a sheet of paper on a hard, flat surface.
Cut it into strips as wide as long as you want the
casings to be. The length of a strip will determine
the wall thickness of the casings (if necessary, more
strips can be used to obtain casings with thicker
walls). Place one strip in front of you, and tape the
far end to the working surface.
4. Place a dowel of the required diameter on the
strip of paper, perpendicular to the strip, as
indicated in figure 1.
5. To start, apply glue to the first edge of paper
and roll it tightly around the dowel. Pay extra
attention to the edges of the paper when applying
glue. Press the dowel against the table and pull it
towards you to prevent the paper from wrinkling.
6. Now, apply glue to the whole strip of paper.
Again, make sure all the edges are well covered.
Spread the glue evenly over the paper.
7. Start rolling. Pull the dowel towards you to
prevent wrinkling.
8. You will most likely find that the dowel was not
perfectly aligned with the paper and starts moving
sideways as you roll. This can be corrected for to a
certain extend by pulling more on one side of the
dowel. However, it is better to avoid this as it will
make the casings slightly less tight and strong. It
takes some practice to master the technique well.
9 When the end of the paper is reached, cut the paper
parallel to the tape with a sharp knife, and apply
glue to the edges. Roll the last stretch of paper

onto the dowel.
Paper Endplugs:
Materials:
A tube for the endplugs (size can vary)
Glue
A piece of dowelling that is about 1mm

smaller ( as shown on the right) than the
inside diameter of the tube you are using.
It helps if you taper the top of the
dowelling a little. (as shown on the top
right)
8 pieces of Kraft paper (I used grocery

bags)
Step1: Place a blob of glue on each piece

of kraft paper and push them all together.
Now you have a 4 layer thick piece of
kraft paper.
NOTE: I should have used smaller paper
squares, when I took these photos, because
a lot of the paper went to waste.
Step2: Place the piece of Kraft paper

ontop of the piece of dowelling, and press
it over it, untill you form it to the
dowelling.
Step3: Slowly press the whole thing

into the tube (it helps if you
squeeze the paper tighter to the
dowelling, so it will push in easier.
REPEAT STEPS 1,2 and 3, for the
second endplug.
Step4: Push in the other endplug and let

it stand for 5 minutes.
Step5: After your 5 minutes are up, remove

the endplugs and let them dry overnight.
Step6: Once dry, cut off the exess paper off of

both of the plugs and you are done!
StepX: Whenever using paper, wood, or epoxy

endplugs, it is ALLWAYS a good idea to score
the inside of the tube, so the glue will hold
the endplug in better.
10.2-4 Impact Salute:

A more involved (but better) method is described here. (Link to United
Nuclear)
Another type of Torpedo/Impact Salute is made using silver nitrate. Click
here. (Link to a Skylighter bulletin)
Here is a picture showing the construction of torpedoes following United
Nuclears procedure, but using BBs instead of gravel.
These are some of the most fun, but most dangerous, fireworks you can make. If
you do make them, extreme care must be taken. When you throw one of these
against a hard surface they explode with a report and spray of match heads.
You can use many different casings, but I prefer the hotel size shampoo
bottles for these. They are a nice size and fit marbles well.
Warning! Blackpowder contains sulfur, and strike-anywhere matches contain

potassium chlorate (KClO3). From Chem Info: "Potassium chlorate, or any
chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and
sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously
ignite." If you do decide to make these, be very careful and use them as soon
as possible to minimize the risk! The KClO3 is mixed with a binder on the
match so not much will be exposed to the sulfur, but better safe than sorry.
Be very careful if you make these!
Procedure:
1. Fill the casing with strike anywhere (SA) matches. Tap it down to fit as
much as you can.
2. Fill the empty space with powder by putting some in and tapping it down.
Fill it pretty full, but not too full, because you need some room for the
matches to rub together.
3. Screw the cap on (Carefully!). When you shake the device, there should not
be anything moving around inside it.

4. Tape it up very well. Make sure it is equally strong at all points.
To be extra sure it will go off, you can put in marbles. Put one in the end
before filling, and one on the top. When thrown, they will smash together and
set off the charge. I don't think the marbles are a big hazard because once I
did one of these and found a marble only about 10 feet from where the device
went off. Still you don't want them going off near you and you should always
have eye protection.
Note: The matches will obviously be on fire and shoot in all directions. Do
not use these were they can start a fire, such as around dry grass and stuff
like that. I have started small fires with these, be careful!
10.3 Rockets:
Model Rocketry is probley one of the most popular forms of pyrotechnics.
Rockets can be used to propelle explosives, burst charges with pyrotechnic
compositions, flares, or smoke screens. This section with disscuse rocket
basics, propellants, construction, and other facts.
10.3-1 Making Rockets:
1.) Introduction
Composite propellants are solid rocket fuels that are composed of

separate
fuels and oxidizers mixed together in one homogenous mass. This propellant
is then either molded into a grain to be inserted in an engine or cast in an
engine casing and left to harden. The fuels and oxidizers taken separately
are generally unreactive. Composite propellants are used in a number of
engines. There are engines that use water for fuel and an oxidizer, air for
an oxidizer like a ramjet, and a liquid/solid engine that can be throttled.
The rocket motors discussed here a best built by the amateur with propellant
weights below 2 lbs. and preferably under 1 lb. This is still powerful enough
to shoot a sizable rocket to well over 4 miles altitude.
Before I get into propellant mixtures a few terms to learn are:
Specific Impulse - Defined as the impulse (force * time) delivered by
burning a unit weight of propellant in a rocket engine.
Volume Specific Impulse - The product of specific impulse and density. This
is expressed in pound-seconds per cubic inch.
If the propellant's weight is kept constant, a
propellant with a lower Isp but a higher density
may outperform one with a greater Isp but a
lower density.
Specific Force - This is a measurement of the ability for a gas to perform
work. Specific force (F) is expressed in foot-pound per
pound.
3.) OXIDIZERS
Composite propellants contain both an oxidizer and a fuel. The oxidizer
may
be a monopropellant and as such contributes power to the propellant mix.
The ideal oxidizer should decompose into totally gaseous exhaust.
Oxidizers used in composite propellants : Potassium perchlorate (KClO4).
Potassium pechlorate was one of the first used oxidizers. One of it's drawbacks is the product of decomposition ( potasium chloride ) is not a gas at
regular temperatures and does not contribute as a working gas. The KCl
appears as a dense smoke in the rockets exhaust. Burning rates of propellants
made with KClO4 are usually high at 0.8 - 0.9 in/sec at 1000 PSI. Densities
of fuels made with KClO4 also tend to high at 1.8 - 2.0 gm/cc. Specific
impulses are usually below 200 lb-sec/lb. Potassium perchlorate is hardly
ever used im modern propellants.
Ammonium Perchlorate NH4ClO4. This is the oxidizer of choice when
possible.
The products of diassociation of NH4ClO4 are 100% gas. The specific impulse
of propellants using this oxidizer reaches 250 lb-sec/lb. Depending on the
percentage of NH4ClO4 the burning rate may reach or exceed 0.5 in/sec. The
products of exhaust are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O, and HCl. The HCl may pose some
problem if the engine is used in high humidity as the HCl vapor may form
visible hydrochloric acid fumes.
Ammonium Nitrate NH4NO3. This oxidizer is useful as it is usually
available
in bulk weight. The products of disassociation of NH4NO3 are 100% gas. However the temperatures produced by the propellant are low. For this reason,the
specific impulse of NH4NO3 propellants are usually no greater than 180 lb-sec
/lb and low percentage propellants have an Isp of 75 lb-sec/lb. The products
of exhaust of NH4NO3 propellants are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O. These gases cause
no special problems. The burning rate of NH4NO3 Propellants are low, ranging
from 0.05 in/sec to 0.27 in/sec. The higher burning rates are possible if
catalysts are used in the propellant. Prussian blue, chromium compounds
(ammonium dichromate), or cobalt compounds are catalysts that are used.
Ammonium nitrate is hygroscopic and undergoes a phase change if the temperature goes above 90 deg./F. Because of this phase change, some grains may
crack if the temperature cycles about this temperature. The burning temperature of NH4NO3 propellants are lower than any other propellants especially
at low percentages of oxidizer.
Lithium Perchorate LiClO4. Some work has been done using lithium
perchlorate
as an oxidizer. The lithium chloride formed in the exhaust is a gas at high
temperatures. Lithium salts are hygroscopic and must be protected from high
humidity. Burning rates of LiClO4 propellants are similar to KClO4 mixtures.
4.) FUELS
Fuels Used in Composite Propellants : Since most rubbers and polymers
are not
available to the general public, some adjustments have to be made. A good
source of plastics is an auto supply store. There you can find epoxy resin
which can be used as a fuel. You will also find fiberglass resin. This is a
liquid made from polystyrene and polyester resin. It is catalyzed with a few
drops of hardener. PVC plastic can be dissolved in tetrahydofuran to make
a thick paste. This can be mixed with an oxidizer and allowed to dry for an
extended time to form a propellant grain. Asphalt was used in some JATO units
about 30 years ago but it was found lacking when used at high temperatures.
Some fuels used in commercial engines are polyurethane rubber, polysulfide
rubber, and butadiene-acrylic acid. Non ferrous metals are added to propellants to increase the temperature of combustion and consequently the Isp. The
metals most used are aluminum, magnesium, and copper. The metals are usually
added in amounts of 5% - 25%. In engines designed to breath water as an oxidizer, metal amounts to about 50% to 80% of the weight of the propellant. The
other components are usually ammonium perchlorate and a polymer.
Propellant Grain Geometry : If the grain is ignited from end on, like a
candle burns, the thrust will be steady or neutral. If the grain has a hole
in it extending end to end and the combustion takes place from the inside out
then the thrust will rise to a peak or be progressive. This is because the
surface area of the grain becomes greater as it burns whereas in a neutral
grain the surface area remains the same. A cruciform shaped grain produces a
large amount of thrust first then tapers off because the surface area becomes
smaller. If the grain is tubular and the combustion takes place from both the
inside out and the outside in, then the thrust will be neutral but fast
burning.
Wherever you wish the grain not to burn, it must be coated with a
retardent.
Epoxy works well as a retardent as does Elmers white glue. At least two coats
of retardent should be used. An epoxy retardent can be used to retain a grain
in a rocket engine. When tubular grains are used, the igniter is usually put
towards the nose of the rocket and fires backwards towards the nozzle. This
insures the grain is ignited completely.
Inspect the propellant grain for any cracks or imperfections. A crack can
cause the surface area of the propellant to increase astronomically. This can
cause an explosion because of the increased pressure.
5.) PROPELLANT MIXTURES
The ratios of oxidizers and fuels depends on the type of engine desired.
The
amount of oxidizer can be as high as 90% as in some ammonium nitrate mixes to
as little as 20% ammonium perchlorate as in some water breathing engines. Go
to the rocket propellants section for more formulas.
A fast burning mixture: Potassium Perchlorate 20%
Isp=200
Epoxy Resin/Hardener 17%
Powdered Aluminum
8%
This is very fast burning but the exhaust makes a fairly heavy smoke.
A slow burning propellant. Great for sustainer engines.
Isp=165
Ammonium Nitrate
70%
Polyester Resin
18%
Powdered Charcoal
2%
Not very powerful but useful. The charcoal helps keep the combustion steady.
A very powerful mixture: Ammonium Perchlorate 75%
Isp=250
Powdered Aluminum
10%
PVC in THF
15%
All the ingredients should be dampened with THF (tetrahydrofuran) before
mixing. Do this in an area with very good ventilation and wear rubber gloves
to keep from contacting the THF with bare skin. This mixture is best used in
a perforated grain to help the solvent evaporate.
An ammonium nitrate based propellant: Ammonium Nitrate
70%
Isp=160
Powdered Aluminum
5%
Polyester Resin
18%
Ammonium Bichromate 5%
Powdered Charcoal
2%
A good mix when perchlorates are not available.
Do not under any circumstances use chlorates for rocket propellants. You will
not make a rocket, just a pipe bomb with fins.
6.) COMPOUNDING PROPELLANTS
One thing to keep in mind when making a propellant, the volume of
fuel/binder
to volume of oxidizer and additives must not be too low. If it is then the
mixture will be too dry to mix well. It will also hurt the strength of the
grain. You may have to cut down on the amount of oxidizer depending on the
fuel you are using.
For rockets weighing 1 pound and less the easiest way to make the
propellant
is to obtain a suitable container for mixing and put in the bottom of it the
correct amount of fuel/binder. The other ingredients are added one at a time
to the fuel and mixed in. One thing that really determines the success of a
propellant is the particle size of the oxidizer. It should be as finely
powdered as possible. Continue mixing the propellant until it is a homogeneous mixture. Now pour it or stuff it into the engine casing taking care
to eliminate all air bubbles. Any mandrels needed to form the grain to shape
shpould already be lubricated for release and in place. After waiting a suitable time for the binder to harden, remove the mandrels and place the engine
in a warm place to finish curing. Inspect the grain for any cracks or imperfections.
Some large propellant grains are constructed by cementing smaller grains
together. Disks of propellant can be glued and stacked to form a long grain.
The disks can be drilled with a number of holes to make a progressive or
regressive burning grain. The holes are lined up when the disks are stacked.
If you construct a press with a number of guide rods to match the drilled
holes, so much the better. The cement can be a very thin layer of the polymer
used to make the grain. If you are using a PVC based grain, then dampen both
mating surfaces with THF and press them together for a minute before adding
the next disk.
You can also load a cardboard casing with the propellant. After the
propellant is cured, this cartridge is loaded into the engine.
When drilling these propellants or using any power tool for shaping them, use
the lowest speed while checking to make sure no heat is building up on the
cutting surface. If care is used, machining propellants is safe.
7.) ENGINE CONSTRUCTION
The typical engine is designed to operate at 1000 psi. The casing of the
engine should be able to withstand at least 3000 psi as a safety factor. A
low carbon seamless steel tube with 1/16" walls can withstand that sort of
pressure. If the tubing has a welded seam, test fire a few engines to see if
the tubes can take the pressure. One drawback to using steel as an engine
casing is if the engine explodes you have some very lethal shrapnel flying
around. If you use a high strength/high heat plastic you can eliminate some
of this danger. Epoxy can be used to wet down a mat of fiberglass then the
fiberglass is rolled around a large dowel to form a casing. The dowel has to
be coated with a lubricant to keep the epoxy from gluing the casing and
dowel together. Or you can obtain a heavy cardboard tube with the correct ID
and coat it with epoxy then wrap epoxy/fiberglass around it. If the tubes are
constructed properly they can take quite a bit of pressure before splitting
apart.
An rocket engine is equipped with a nozzle to accelerate the exhaust out
of
the rocket at a high velocity. A nozzle has a convergent section that does
this. A divergent section of nozzle is used to lower the exhaust pressure
so the exhaust gases accelerate out of the engine at high speeds.
The nozzle of the engine can be machined out of metal or made of a fireproof
ceramic. If the nozzle and the casing are metal, they can be brazed together
before the engine is loaded. The nozzle can also be screwed into place by
using 4 - 6 screws going through the side of the casing into the nozzle. Care
must be used to see that the screws don't break through the inside of the
nozzle. On smaller rockets, you may be able to get away with plaster of paris
nozzles or for more powerful motors try pressing a mixture of 90% kaolin and
10% aluminum oxide into a nozzle shape in the casing. Dampen the mix with a
little water before pressing. You can make a nozzle die by turning 2 pieces
of hardwood into divergent/convergent sections. This die should be fitted

with a dowel guide pin at the mating points to help keep the die straight.
A nozzle can be made from just a divervent section. This can be easily made
by drilling the required hole in a section of nozzle. Then by drilling out
the first hole with larger drills without completely breaking through, a
diverging nozzle is formed. Smooth out the ID of the nozzle after drilling
the holes. This type of nozzle is pretty good on smaller engines with a 1" ID
or less. By using some ingenuity, you should have no problem in making a
servicable nozzle. A rule of thumb to use for the ID of the nozzle is to use
a hole that has an area (repeat-area,not diameter) 1/3 the area of the ID of
the rocket engine casing.
Most propellants burn unsteadily at low pressures. Solid rocket engines
are
equipped with a blast plug that allows the pressure to build up in the engine
before being blown out like a cork in a bottle. Sometimes the ignitor is
combined with the blast plug in a single unit. A stiff plastic disk makes for
a good plug. It should have a thickness of about 1/16".
The engine is sealed with a plug in the fore section. Depending on the construction of the engine this plug may be made of wood, plastic, or metal. It
is held in place with either screws or epoxy. This plug must make the casing
gas tight. Remember most rockets develop 1000 PSI.
The ignitor is simply an electric match. It can be made with nichrome wire
or a small light bulb. The match is used to ignite a small charge of black
powder that in turn ignites the propellant. The ignitors leads should be
shunted together to eliminate premature ignition. A fuse can be used instead
of electric ignition. If you go this route, be sure of the burning time of
the fuse and allow yourself enough time to retreat to safety after igniting
the fuse. I cannot recommend using a fuse because you cannot stop a fuse
from burning if someone walks into your launch area. With electric ignition,
everything is under your control until the time of launching.
8.) Engine Design
It would be nice to be able to give you the complete info on designing
rocket engines. However, the required math would be a file about 300K in
length. Also this file is mainly about propellants. The other info is gravy.
The best I can offer is to check out your local library for design
and engineering books. If you want to build a rocket to simply shoot off to
stroke your pyro perversions, build a small engine containing no more than
4 oz. of fuel. Use a paper casing to keep the danger down and chances are
very good that if your construction is sound you'll get the thrill of seeing
your rocket go out of sight. If you plan to hoist a payload into suborbital
projectory however, learn about thermodynamics, interior ballistics, and
propellant chemistry.
I recommend trying to get the book Amateur Rocketry Handbook. This
book is out of print but it was put together by the Fort Sill Artillery
School and contains a lot of valuable info.
9.) Testing and Firing
You should construct a few engines exactly the same and test fire a
number of them to find out what to expect when you finally do launch a rocket
. The engines can be buried nozzle end up in the ground and fired. Time the
burning of the engine to figure out the rate of combustion of the propellant.
Inspect the casing to see how it stood up. If everything seems okay you can
construct a static testing fixture to measure the thrust. Keep in mind that
even a small engine can put out a few hundred pounds thrust for a split
second. When you do launch a rocket, keep people away from the launch site
and under cover. Check out the skies for airplanes or other traffic. Don't
*Launch rockets under conditions of low visibility or heavy winds.
10.3-2 SKYROCKETS:
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
10.3-3 Estes Skyrocket:

These rockets use commercial Estes engines.
Procedure taken from
http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/estesskyrocket.html.
Materials:
-Estes rocket engine (C or D size)
-Fused salute/other payload
-Glue
-Tape
-Guidance stick
Procedure:
Scrape out the clay from the top of the engine. I have used D's with
Class C shells and C's with cobs so far. Be sure you check the delay on the
engine. A C6-7 for example has a 7-sec delay, meaning the rocket will probably
be on its way back to the ground when it goes off. You DO NOT want this to
happen! Use C6-3's if possible, if you only have 7's you must scrape out some
of the delay mixture (gray/silver powder between main propellant and ejection
charge) so it will go sooner. Now put the salute so the fuse touches the
ejection charge. If using a cob in a C, it fits almost perfectly. Glue the
payload to the engine and let it dry. Make sure it's on straight or your
rocket will not fly properly (which could be very dangerous!). Once that is
dry, tape the whole thing to your guidance stick (I used skinny dowels). You
can glue the engine to the stick to be extra sure it will hold. Tape seems to
work fine for C's, but for D size I'd definitely glue it along with taping.
C6-3 with cob, not yet wrapped in tape:
10.4 ROMAN CANDLES:

Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to
make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well
worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that
the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After

mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.
Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works,
a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly
larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
22 cal. noisemakers:
These are really stupid, but if you are really bored it will give you
something to do. One good thing about them is if you make them right and use
green fuse, they will go off underwater. Just make sure to tape them to a rock
or something because they float. Just get an empty .22 shell, fill it with
powder, stick a fuse in it, and crimp it over with needle nose pliers. They
aren't any louder than a firecracker, but the "homemade factor" makes them
more fun. The only near-difficult thing is getting it bent over right. If it
isn't bent well, it wont be very good. This picture shows what they should
look like.
.22 Magnum (they are longer than normal .22's are the only ones that work.
regular .22's are too short. You can also use larger cases like .223, .44 or
any other long casing.
.22's properly bent
10.6 Class C Aerial Salute:

I'm certainly not the first person to think of making a Class C shell
into a salute, but I'd never heard of anyone actually trying it, so I decided
to give it a shot. The construction is very simple, just get a normal Class C
shell (preferably one with a boring effect so you don't take apart a good
one), make a small hole to empty the contents, put in some flash powder ,and
seal it up again.
-Step one is to cut a hole in the shell with a knife. The hole should be as
small as possible, while being large enough to shake out all the stars,
powder, etc in the shell. The cut should be made on the top so you don't make
it any larger in diameter sealing it up because it might not fit properly in
the tube.
-Once empty, pour in your flash powder. I used 15g in this shell, you could
probably fit at least 20g if you tried.
-Once the flash has been added, I stuffed in some tissue paper to hold it in
and glued it in place.
-I didn't do a very good job in this one, but next tape over the hole to make
it a bit stronger. Again, try to keep the shell the same diameter so it will
fit in the tube.
-The shell can be launched just like any other, just take extra care in where
the tube is pointing, these can be much more dangerous than ordinary shells.
Also, be sure to label any modified shells so they dont get mixed up with
normal ones.
10.7 Go Getters:
Go Getters are essentially rocket propelled stars. They are used in an
aerial shell or in the head of a rocket and when ignited, they burn with a
brilliant color (brilliant because the formulas all contain Magnesium powder)
and shoot across the sky. Lit on the ground or in the air, they will fly off
in a random direction with their bright tail fire. The Magnesium in these
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
ORANGE
50 %
37 %
50 %
44 %
5 %
5 %
4 %
12 %
Magnesium Powder
13 %
13 %
11 %
12 %
Parlon
17 %
17 %
15 %
17 %
Hexamine
9 %
9 %
8 %
8 %
Strontium Nitrate
Barium Nitrate
Cryolite
12 %
8 %
Red Gum
3 %
3 %
3 %
3 %
Boric Acid
3 %
3 %
3 %
3 %
Comments:
The chemicals are first finely powered (if they are lumpy or coarse
crystals) then mixed well together. For the next step, you'll need a small
squeeze bottle, similar to those plastic squeeze ketchup bottles you find in a
restaurant. Take the mixed formula and slowly add Acetone (while mixing) until
it has the consistency of pancake batter. The Acetone will melt the Parlon in
the mixture making it plastic & gooey. Be sure to test the squeeze bottle you
are going to use first by putting some Acetone in it. Acetone will also melt
many plastics, so make sure your squeeze bottle isn't going to melt too. The
melted Parlon in the mixtures will also coat the Magnesium Powder and prevent
it from degrading. The Parlon here not only binds the mixture together, but it
boosts the color of the flame by providing Chlorine to the burning mixture.
Next, stand some M-80 tubes up end on a sheet of Aluminum Foil. Pump the
mixture into them until they are about 80% full. If they are to be used in
shells or rocket heads, insert a piece of Black Match (that's Quickmatch with
the outside paper removed) all the way to the bottom, leaving about 1"
sticking out the top. You can also insert a piece of Visco Safety Fuse, but
the ignition delay will be longer. Let them dry for 3 to 4 days. When lit,
they will burn with a brilliant colored flame and shoot off in a random
direction. Be very careful if you light one on the ground. It can launch in an
unpredictable direction... and with its burning hot Magnesium flame, ignite
whatever it lands on.
10.8 Yogart Mine:
Note: "Mine" in pyrotechnics means "star mine", not "land mine". These are NOT
made to explode when you step on them, they are made to shoot stars into the
air when the fuse is lit.
*procedure taken from
http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/yogurtmine.html.
The traditional way to make mines is to use sturdy cardboard tubes, but here
is another way they can be made.
Materials:
-Yogurt cup with lid (this is where the name comes from!)
-Lift powder (blackpowder or similar)
-Stars (made or taken from other fireworks)
-Anything else you want to add (crackling balls, firecrackers, fuses)
Procedure:
1. Get your yogurt cup (without the lid on) and wrap it in duct tape. There
isn't an exact number of wraps or anything, but give it a minimum of 5 layers
(preferably more).
2. Drill a fuse hole (you can make your hole before wrapping, but this way you
can control the size of the hole better and don't have to work around the fuse
while taping).
3. Pour in lift powder, stars, and anything else.
4. Put lid on and tape. I use two "X" patterns of tape to seal the whole
thing.
5. Light it! Make sure it is in an open area and you are a safe distance away
in case it explodes!
Fused:
Filled with powder:
Added crackling balls for extra fun!:
Lid taped on:
Pics from a few mines I've made:
10.9 Mine Bag:
We begin by taking a 2"

cardboard gun/tube and stand it on end.
We then take 2 pieces of tissue paper (the

extremely light stuff) about 11 inch squares. Center the two pieces of paper
over the tube and with something just smaller than the ID of the tube lightly
push the two pieces of paper down the tube.
Use your other hand to lift the tissue and

allow it to be pushed down. Key thing here, DO NOT penetrate or tear the
tissue, if you do .....start over! Stop when there is about 3 inches of the
tissue still outside of the tube.
Now pull out the rammer and fold the

remaining 3 inches of tissue down around the outside of the tube.
Now fill her up ma ma mia and keep the

change! No, really, in a small tupperware type bowltoss in your effect
stars/components, in this case I am using 1/2" gold comet stars.
I mean Meal, ie: BP)
Then add 1/3 cup of meal coated hulls (and
Then simply add two cap fulls of Goex 4F

(FFFF) to the mix. *NOTE if you are using home made BP USE MORE!
Ok so now go ahead and put the lid on the

bowl and give it a little shake or two.
Now just take and pour the contents onto a

piece of paper, being careful not to have little runaway stars!
Now take a piece of quickmatch, remove the

paper from about 3/4" off the end, and then bend the bare match to form a
letter "L" and lower the leader into the empty mine bag.
Now take the piece of paper with all the

effects on it and use it as a trough to pour all of the effects into the mine
bag. Then carefully fold up the 3 inches of tissue around the outside of the
tube, and sinch and twist it tight around the quickmatch. Then use a 3 inch
long piece of wire to twist and crimp around the tissue and quickmatch sealing
the device.
label the device to its effect.
Your rolling now.......Immediately mark or
As with any single device like a shell,

mine, candle etc. use a piece of visco at the end of your leader for a safer
shooting environment.
Wow you are done, (the device we just made

is to be shot from a 2 inch mortar about 8 inches high)
10.10 Making Cut Stars:

Stars, the pieces of composition that burn to make colors or other effects,
are an essential part of pyrotechincs. There are three types of stars, cut,
round, and pressed/pumped. Cut stars are the easiest to make and make a great
project for a beginning pyro as well as making great fireworks!
Basically, cut stars are made by wetting the composition, flattening it into a
patty and cutting it into cubes that are then dried. Everyone has their own
personal technique, this is how I do it and you may find a better way or some
variation that you find works better.
Materials:
Star composition
Priming composition (depending on star comp)
Ziplock or other sealable plastic bags
Plastic spoons
Wax paper
Rolling pin
Cutting tool
Newspaper
The first step is to mix your star composition ("comp" for short). In the
example here I'm making "Silver Shower #3" from the Composition Database.
It's the same procedure for any composition except for variations in the
liquid used to bind the star (sometimes just water, sometimes water and
alcohol, sometimes just alcohol, etc.) and the safety precautions needed
(mask, gloves, etc.) depending on the chemicals involved. It's a good idea to
lay down newspaper over your work area to help with the cleanup.
Chemicals to make the star comp:
Weighing out the chemicals:
When each chemical is weighed out, it is poured into one of your bags. The bag
should be labled to help you remember what's in it and so you can resuse the
bag.
Chemicals in the bag:
The composition is then thouroughly mixed by shaking it in the bag, pressing

out any lumps you may feel. It must be well mixed to work properly.
Mixing in the bag:
Depending on the composition used, you may need to prime your stars. Priming
is used for compositions that do not light easily, so they must be coated in a
comp that does light more easily to transfer fire to it. There are many
different primes that can be used but the simplest is just fine blackpowder.
Once you have your stars cut, a 50/50 mixture of blackpowder and star comp is
used to coat the stars and then an outer coat of blackpowder to aid ignition.
The 50/50 mix does not have to be measured perfectly, just add one scoop of
star comp to one scoop of BP in a bag and shake to mix it together. Once this
is done, set it aside for later.
50/50 star prime:
The rest of your star comp is now ready to be moistened. I use a seperate
small bag from the one the comp was mixed in. As mentioned earlier, the liquid
used to bind the stars depends on what composition you are using, a common one
is 75/25 water and isopropyl alcohol, but you should check to see if you need
a specific one for your comp. The liquid is added slowly with and eye dropper
to the comp in the bag, which is kneaded to mix the liquid into the comp. The
ammount of liquid needed will depend on your comp, so add slowly and mix often
so you don't find you used too much.
Comp and liquid:
The comp will form a thick paste, it should be wet enough to stick together
well but should not be dripping. Once enough liquid has been added and kneaded
into the comp, it can be dumped onto wax paper.
It should look something like this:
Now your blob of comp needs to be flattened, this is done with a rolling pin,
I put another sheet of wax paper down on top of the comp to keep the rolling
pin a little cleaner, but you should definetly have a dedicated rolling pin,
not the same one you use for cooking!
Rolling the comp flat:
The thickness of the comp depends on how large you want your stars to be. Once
it's the desired thickness you can put away your rolling pin and get your
cutting tool.
Flattened comp:
Your cutting tool can be a regular old knife, a plastic tool, or just about
anything else that will make a cut. With your cutting tool cut the comp into
strips, the width again depends on how large you want your stars to be.
The first cuts:
Next cut the other direction to make cubes out of the strips of comp. When
cutting you'll know if you had too much water because it will be gooey and
difficult to cut or dry and crumbly if you added too little water.
Cutting into cubes:
Now everything should be cut into cubes like the picture below.
Finished cutting:
If it applies to your comp, this is where you added the priming mix set aside
earlier. The stars will still be wet so dust them with your priming mix then
lift the corners of the paper they are on like you are diaper mixing flash
powder to coat the stars evenly in priming mix. This can be done in several
layers, including an outer layer of pure prime on top of the 50/50 mix that
ignites the straigth star comp. This same method can be used to make color
changing stars by coating them in a different composition. If the stars are
drying out and you still need to add prime you can drip on more liquid to get
the prime to stick.
Adding prime to stars:
Once coated, the stars are set aside to dry before they can be used.
Finished stars:
These are now ready to be used in shells, mines or many other pyrotechnic
devices. They should first be tested by lighting a couple on the ground to
observe burn characteristics like color/effect and burn time. Next they can be
tested in a star gun to see how they do in the air, because performance can
sometimes be very different once they are moving at high speed. A star gun is
basically just a one-shot roman candle for testing stars, and it doesn't have
to be anything fancy. Just get a tube that a single star can fit in, add some
BP, stick in a fuse, and light. If the star lights and burns as planned then
everything is good. If it doesn't light you need more prime, and if it doesn't
burn as planned, you may need to do more experimenting with your formulas.
Make sure your stars burn a safe time, you don't want stars to burn so long
they fall back to the ground!
10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls:

(actually, coating anything with Black Powder)
Meal Coated Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls) is the explosive that is used to
break open aerial shells, and at the same time ignite the Stars inside...
without shattering them into dust. "Meal Powder" is nothing more than very
finely powdered Black Powder (Gunpowder). Rice Hulls, for those who don't know
what they are, are simply the shells of ordinary white rice. They look very
much like grass seed... and if you really wanted to, you could use grass seed
in place of Rice Hulls, but it's a very expensive alternative and there are
much better (and less expensive) substitutes. There is nothing special about
Rice Hulls, and in fact, you can use several other materials that are less
expensive and work better, such as Corn Cob. The idea here is to have an
explosive that is easily ignited, strong enough to break the shell and throw
the stars a great distance, but not be so powerful that the explosion shatters
the stars and renders them useless. If a small granular type material is
coated with Black Powder, it burns much faster than just the Black Powder
would alone. Coating the Corn Cob (or whatever you're going to use) not only
increases the burning speed of the Black Powder, but the mixture is also far
more bulky than Black Powder is alone. Because it takes up more space, it
fills the empty gaps in the shell and holds the stars against the wall of the
shell.
The procedure outlined below is the method that we have used for the past
14 years to make Meal Coated Corn Cob.
Rice Hulls have historically been chosen because they are essentially
free, and are considered to be a waste material. I'm told that in some states
the local authorities pour Rice Hulls on the road for added traction in the
winter time when it is slippery. Although they may be very easy to get in some
places, they are nearly impossible to get a hold of in others. A nice
substitute that we've found works even better is Corn Cob. Corn Cob is just
what the name implies. It is dried & granulated Corn Cobs. Both Rice hulls and
Corn Cob are available on our Chemicals & Metals page. In short, whichever
material you choose,
the procedure outlined below will work well for either.
*Note the difference in appearance between Rice Hulls (left) and Corn Cob
(right).
Either one can be used in this process, although Corn Cob does work a bit
better in aerial shells.
Step #1: Making the Drying Bag
The first thing you'll need to make is a drying bag, which is just a large
"pocket" with a fold-over flap. We make one out of some old window screen,
fold the edges over and staple with an ordinary staple gun. Make sure it is
large enough to hold about a cup full of Corn Cob or Rice Hulls. Set this
aside for now, we'll be using it later.
Step #2: Preparing the BP Mix
Now, weigh out 375 grams of Black Powder and place it in a large container.
Make sure that this container has a lid that snaps on and will not leak.
Weigh 75 grams of Dextrin and place it on a piece of paper.
Take the Dextrin that you've just weighed and run it through a strainer into
the measured amount of Black Powder. This breaks up any clumps of Dextrin so
that it will evenly mix with the Black Powder when you shake it.
Snap on the lid to the container and shake the Dextrin & Black Powder mixture
until it's evenly mixed. Set this mixture aside.
Step #3: Wetting the Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls)
Measure out about a full cup of Rice Hulls (or Corn Cob), place them in a
large plastic container and add about 2 cups of warm water.
Tamp down the dry Rice Hulls with your hands until they are all under water
and wet.
Let the Corn Cob or Rice Hulls soak for 20 minutes, occasionally stirring them
and tamping down any that may become dry on top.
Step #4: Drying
What we're going to do now may seem a bit strange, but it works just great.
The hulls need to be just damp at this point... not wet and not too dry. You
can either spread them out and allow them to dry to dampness (which takes
several hours), or do it in 20 seconds flat using your washing machine.
We use the washing machine as a large centrifuge by utilizing the "spin"
cycle. Beware that your wife may kill you if she sees you doing this, so
choose an appropriate time to dry your material.
After they have soaked for 20 minutes, open your drying bag over the washing
machine, and pour in the soaking wet Cob / Hulls and water. The water will
pour right through the screen bag and drain into the washer.
Fold over the top of the drying bag as shown to prevent any of the material
from escaping during the spin.
Washers have a safety mechanism that disables the unit if the lid is opened.
Although you don't need to bypass this feature, you can if you want to watch
what's going on. To do this, look for the small tab or slot that the lid
pushes in to tell the washer that it's closed. Generally, all you have to do
is to stick a screwdriver in the slot and the washer will operate as if the
lid was closed. This really doesn't need to be done, but we've done it to show
the washer operating.
Before you actually spin the Rice Hulls, make sure that you can select a "spin
only" position on the washer control. You might have to play with the control
a bit to find the exact place that will make the unit spin, but not to spray
in water and rinse.
Once you are confident that you can make it spin without spraying water, go
ahead and set the wet bag of Cob / Hulls in there and turn on the spin cycle.
Allow the bag to spin for only 20 seconds. Any longer will make the material
too dry to use.
Remove the bag and have a look inside. They should be dark & damp, but not
wet.
Pour the damp Cob or Hulls into a large plastic container that you've got a
lid for. Make sure that the lid fits well and doesn't leak. The container
should be large enough to hold both the Cob / Hulls and the Black Powder with
plenty of room to spare.
Step #5: Coating
Pour the Black Powder / Dextrin mixture that you made earlier in with the damp
Cob or Hulls.
Snap on the lid, and shake well.
Lay out several sheets of newspaper (2 layers thick) and empty the coated
material onto them. Break up any lumps that may have formed and spread the
coated chunks out as thinly as possible. The coated material will become dry
to the touch when left overnight, but will not be completely dry for a couple
of days.
Be warned that you now have an explosive spread out on the floor. It is very
flammable and it is vital that there are no sources of ignition anywhere in
the area while the Hulls are drying. Do not attempt to speed the drying up by
heating the Hulls in any way.
When dry, you can test the material by igniting a small pile of it (obviously
far, far away from your large quantity of coated drying material). You'll
notice that they burn very, very fast. Much faster than Black Powder does
alone. This is because the fire can propagate faster around the outside of the
Cob / Hulls and flash through the airspaces in between each piece. The coated
Rice Hulls (or coated Corn Cob) can be stored until you're ready to use them
in an aerial shell.
10.12 Strobe Pots:

Strobe Pots are small containers that contain a Strobe Mixture that flashes on
& off when lit
The Bright White Strobe Mix is an easy to make and very entertaining formula.
It will strobe brightly even when made into small pea-sized pieces.
BRIGHT WHITE STROBE
Comments:
Barium Nitrate
51 %
Potassium Nitrate
7 %
Sulfur
19 %
Magnalium
60 to 100 mesh
18 %
Dextrin
5 %
Grind the Barium Nitrate and Potassium Nitrate into a fine powder that
resembles Talcum powder. Mix the Nitrates with the other chemicals and pass
the mixture through a fine screen to break up any lumps. Put the mixture in a
zip-loc plastic baggie and shake well.
Add just a small amount of water to the mix... a little at a
time until it will just begin to stick together when squeezed between your
fingers. Be very careful not to add too much water and shake & knead the
mixture in the baggie each time you add a bit of water to make sure it is all
absorbed.
Once it is damp enough to hold together, you can test some by
squeezing a pea-sized piece between your fingers. You can take the small piece
outside and light it and it will flash brightly.
Strobe Mix will light even if it is a little damp.
It is sometimes difficult to light (especially when damp). If you have one,
the best way to light a tiny test sample of it is with a propane torch.
The damp composition can be pressed into small thimble-sized
paper cups made by rolling up a sheet of paper, After you press in the
composition, insert a 2" length of Visco Safety Fuse and press the composition
around it. When the mixture dries (usually in a couple of days), it will
become rack hard and light easily with a fuse. The Magnalium in the formula is
a special Magnesium & Aluminum alloy that makes the mixture flash so brightly.
10.13 Aerial Shells:
The following is the procedure that we've used to assemble Aerial Shells for
the past 15 years. Aerial Shells are launched from a Mortar (a specialized
cardboard
or HDPE plastic pipe) sending the shell high into the air with its time delay
fuse lit. When the shell reaches its maximum altitude, it explodes, igniting
the colored stars inside and throwing them a great distance. Like all
fireworks, these are by no means safe to manufacture and doing so is illegal
in the United States unless you are licensed by the BATF. An assembled Aerial
Shell "going off" on the ground in front of you (instead of hundreds of feet
in the air) will most likely kill you or leave you disfigured for life. These
directions will work for 4" through 8" shells, the sizes most commonly used by
shell makers. We show the assembly of a 6" shell because it's a little easier
to work with & to photograph. Shells smaller than 4" generally can be
assembled in a simpler fashion (we'll cover that procedure in another section)
and shells larger then 8" get a lot more complicated which we're not going to
cover at all.
To save time& trouble, most people pretty much stick with using plastic shell
casings (as opposed to paper). Although these directions will apply to any
size, the most common are 4",6" and 8". One thing to do before assembling a
plastic shell is to make sure the 2 halves fit together without effort. This
may sound strange, but we've run into several bad casings that just don't fit
together (and it can be quite aggravating to find this out after you've spent
time loading your shell). Everyone seems to have their own way they put shells
together... this is they way we've chosen. We've literally made thousands of
shells over the past 15 years and we have yet to have a failure. It may sound
like an exaggeration, but it is in fact quite true.
Part One, Fusing
The time-delay fuse used in aerial shell is known as 1/4" Time Fuse or
Oriental Time Fuse. It is available in coils of different lengths and has a
nominal outer diameter of 1/4" (although occasionally you will see other
diameters for sale, stick with the 1/4") . All 4", 6" & 8" shells use the same
length of fuse, 1.25" (1-1/4").
It is important that time fuse is cut with a blade and

not a scissor-type device. The powder core is somewhat fragile and if cut with
a scissors or similar device the end is crushed (to varying degrees) and the
powder loosened from its packed state, increasing its burn rate.
Notice the difference in the scissors cut and blade cut end.
Insert the 1.25" long fuse into the bottom half of the
shell, leaving about half the length sticking out the bottom of the shell.
Using a Hot Melt Glue Gun, lay an even bead of glue

around the base of the fuse sealing it to the casing. When cool, do the same
on the inside of the shell. It is important that there be no gaps in the glue
which could allow fire to enter the shell during launch.
Slip a Plastic Drinking

Straw over the fuse end on the inside of the shell and glue into place. There
are some straws that are just either too small or too large to fit over time
fuse. Unfortunately, these are the "free" ones you'll find at your favorite
fast food restaurant. What will fit are the "Flexi-Straws" found in just about
every supermarket. They come in boxes of 100 and are very inexpensive.
shell.
Cut the straw off so it's just under the rim of the
Fill the straw to within 1/4" of the top with

Commercial 3FG black powder or similar may be used.
granulated Black Powder.
Roll up a small ball of Tissue and push it into the

end of the straw with a nail or pencil. It shouldn't be too tight, just tight
enough to hold the powder in and not fall out when the shell is turned over.
The completed, fused shell. Lay a ruler across the rim

to make sure that the fuse tube does not protrude over the edge. If it does,
just clip it short.
Part Two, Loading

Now that your shell is properly fused, it is ready to load with stars and a
break charge.
For ease of assembly (and to protect the fuse

protruding from bottom half), sit the two hemispheres on cardboard tubes or
cups.
Starting with the top half (the one without the fuse),
begin loading stars into the shell. Spread them one layer deep all around the
inside of the hemisphere.
Continue loading until both halves of the shell have a

layer of stars along the inside. Do not load the stars all the way up to the
rim. There is a small lip on shell halves that must fit together, so leave a
space of about 1/4" from the rim on both halves.
Next, you will need some tissue paper, the kind that
you wrap fragile items in or pack you Christmas presents with. You can
certainly use other types of thin paper, even a 1 ply paper towel, but tissue
paper is both thin and strong and easily obtainable.
The next thing you'll need are some Meal Coated Rice Hulls, info on making
them can be found in the 10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls
section.
Cut a piece of tissue paper about 12" square, form it

into a little cup and dump a heaping handful of Coated Rice Hulls into it.
Hold the package of Hulls by

the top and drop it into the shell, quickly spreading the Hulls up against the
wall of stars. The Rice Hulls pressing on the stars will prevent them from
falling in. The tissue paper merely prevents the stars from migrating into the
center of the shell during transport or launch.
Trim the tissue paper so

that it's under the lip of the shell casing. Add or remove some Rice Hulls
until the shell is full to about 1/8" from the top. Check with a straight edge
and be careful not to overfill, it would make it difficult to assemble the
shell. Set this half of the shell aside when complete.
Loading the fused side of the shell with Hulls is a tad more difficult...
Cut another 12" square of

tissue paper and tear a small 1/2" diameter hole in the center. Form it into a
little cup with the hole at the bottom.
Now gently, slide the paper cup over the straw and
let it rest in the shell. If you bump the shell, your stars will go tumbling
to the bottom, so be careful.
Get a cupful of Coated Rice

Hulls and all at once, dump the entire cupful into the shell. Do not do this
slowly, the stars will fall in. If you just dump it in all at once, the Hulls
will hold the stars in place before they've got a chance to fall. Spread the
hulls around evenly.
Trim the tissue paper all around the shell and make
sure that it doesn't extend above the rim.
Do the same as you did on the other shell half,

adding or removing Hulls until the shell is full to just about an 1/8" under
the rim.
Part Three, Finishing & Closing
Dump half a tablespoon of Whistle Mix in each shell

hemisphere. The Formula for Whistle Mix and can be found in the 10.1-9
whistle mixtures section. Some pros like to use Flash Powder (as shown in
the images), but stick with Whistle Mix.
Flash Powder frequently breaks the shell too hard smashing the stars into
dust, or shoots them out so fast that they blow out. You'll find that Whistle
Mix works perfectly almost all the time.
Spread the Whistle Mix around a bit and work it down

into the Rice Hulls. This will help the shell break more evenly.
The shell is now ready to be closed. There are two ways to do this. You can
simply snap the two halves together (as we do) or you can hold a piece of thin
cardboard over one half. We'll show you both ways:
The quick way is to line up

the two shell halves. One has a lip that fits inside the other. Rest the
opposing shell on the lip and tilt them a little toward each other.
With one fast move, snap the

shell together. I know, it looks like everything will go flying, but every
person who we've taught to do it, does it with ease. If you feel you lack the
coordination to accomplish this daring maneuver, try the alternate method...
Place a thin piece of cardboard

(like the kind you find on the back of note pads) on one half of the shell.
Holding it in place, flip the shell over and lay it on the bottom half. Align
the two halves, and slowly pull out the cardboard, snapping the two
hemispheres together.
The shell is now ready to be sealed (you'll need a glass or metal container to
catch the excess solvent that will drip off). Pull the shell just a hair apart
(not too much, just a hair) and using either Xylol or Methylene Chloride in an
eye dropper (squirt bottle, or similar), run the solvent around the seam of
the shell. Rotate the shell so there are no dry gaps. Capillary attraction
will draw the solvent into the seam and melt the plastic shell lips together.
Before the solvent dries, push the shell halves firmly together making sure
that the shell is perfectly sealed.
Support the shell and orient it so the time fuse is pointing

up. The next steps will be the final fusing of the shell and attachment of the
lift charge.
Part 4, Final Fusing & Lift Charge
Using a razor blade, slice the Time Fuse in half to a depth of about 1/4"
You'll need some Black Match, also known as "Crossmatch" (Black Powder coated
cotton string) for the next step. You can see how that is made in the 12.1-2
HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE section.
Rock the blade back & forth

to open up the time fuse and insert a 3" long piece of Crossmatch. Push the
Crossmatch in so it's level with the top of the Time Fuse.
Using some good quality thread (or better yet, dental

floss), wrap a few turns around the Time Fuse & Crossmatch securing them
together. Tape the loose ends of the thread to the shell casing.
Flip the shell over, dip the fuse ring (that came
with your shell casing) in some solvent and insert it in the top hole. The
fuse ring will support the shell as it is loaded into the Mortar.
Lay the shell on its side and run a 4 foot length

(approximately) of Quickmatch through the Fuse Ring, around the shell ending
at the Time Fuse. The Quickmatch doesn't have to actually touch the
Crossmatched Time Fuse. They will both be inside a pouch of Lift Powder
(granulated Black Powder) and will ignite simultaneously. Tape the Quickmatch
to the shell casing every few inches so it is secure. The Quickmatch needs to
be about 18" longer than the Mortar you will be using to fire your shells out
of.
The final step is to add a pouch filled with Lift Powder (coarse granulated
Black Powder). We use homemade Lift Powder although commercial FFG or FFFG
Black Powder can be used. If commercial Black Powder is used, the amount of
lift charge is cut just about in half due to its faster burning speed.
Directions for making Lift Powder can be found in the Basic Components
section. Lift charges are as follows:
Lift Charges
( in grams )
4" Shell 6" shell
8" shell
Homemade Lift
Powder
60
100
200
Commercial Black
Powder
35
60
100
These lift charge amounts should only be taken as a "ballpark" figure. There
are many factors which come into play in determining the amount of lift charge
to use; relative "strength" of the Black Powder, particle size, etc. One
additional parameter is the length of the Mortars. Just as a point of
reference, our 4" Mortars are 24" long and our 6" Mortars are 36" long.
A small pouch must be attached to the bottom of the shell

to hold the lift charge. For the smaller 4" shells "Solo" cone shaped paper
cups can be used. They're cheap and easily obtainable. Regular paper cups
cannot be used because they're coated with wax making it difficult to attach
them to the shell.
Larger shells require that you fashion a pouch out of

paper. A single sheet triangular folded with the ends trimmed and taped makes
an excellent pouch. Of course any design can be used just as long as it can be
attached to the shell and it doesn't leak out the Lift Powder inside.
The pouch is filled with the

appropriate amount of Lift Powder and then securely taped to the bottom of the
shell.
Completed Aerial Shells showing a size comparison

between a 6" shell, 4" shell and 36D breasts.
Always remember to tear off 12 to 18 inches of paper off the end of the
Quickmatch fuse for delay before launching.
As stated before, Aerial Shells are complex and dangerous fireworks.
Although this description of the assembly procedure is complete, many of the
potential problems and warnings have not been addressed. Never attempt the
construction of these devices unless you are licensed and have been properly
trained to do so.
11.0 Fun with fire:
11.1-0 Napalm:
Napalm, is a mixture of fuel and gelling solution that are combined to

produce a thickened mixture. The fuel gel mixture is stringy and sticky, and
readily adheres to most surfaces.
Napalm is less flammable than gasoline and therefore less hazardous. The
more polystyrene in the mixture, the harder it is to ignite. Napalm is harder
to ignite than might be expected. Thermite is typically used to ignite napalm.
A match or even a road flare will not ignite napalm. Some forms of modern
napalm cannot be ignited by a hand grenade.
Napalm was developed at Harvard University in 1942-43 by a team of
chemists led by chemistry professor Louis F. Fieser, who was best known for
his research at Harvard University in organic chemistry which led to the
synthesis of the hormone cortisone. Napalm was formulated for use in bombs and
flame throwers by mixing a powdered aluminium soap of naphthalene with
palmitate (a 16-carbon saturated fatty acid) -- hence napalm [another story
suggests that the term napalm derives from a recipe of Naptha and palm oil].
The aluminum soap of naphtenic and palmitic acids turns gasoline into a sticky
syrup that carries further from projectors and burns more slowly but at a
higher temperature.
11.1-1 military napalm:

It is typically a mixture of benzene (21%), gasoline (33%), and
polystyrene (46%). Benzene is a normal component of gasoline (about 2%), while
the gasoline used in napalm is the same leaded or unleaded gas that is used in
automobiles.
11.1-2 Jolly Roger's napalm(yawn):
ingredients:
-metal bowl
-gasoline
-styrofoam
Procedure:
Fill the bowl up about halfway with gas, then put some chunks of
styrofoam in it. After the styrofoam melts, put more in. When you have a
desired amount of gel. Give it a stir and doump out the eccess gas, and store
the gel in an old(clean) coffee can.
11.1-3 napalm II:

About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam
and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalms is simply one part
gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar
soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap
to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least
a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and
the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no
flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is
stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub
with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a
much larger container than will the double boiler.
11.2 Flame Throwers:

Flame throwers were used a lot in WWI and WWII. The military flame
throwers are kinds hard to make and can be costly. These are the ones that I
have made
Aim-n-flame:
(most of you have made this) Just take an aerosol can containing
flammable liquid, spray, and light the mist. I have found that the best thing
to use is starter fluid; it sprays kinda far and is very flammable.
Improvised aim-n-flame:
Get one of those plastic spray can handles from an auto parts store.
Clamp the handle to a can of starter fluid. Mount an ignition source(small
modified jet torches work best) in the handle and make it so when you pull the
trigger on the handle, the flame is lit on the igniter (tricky). With nozzle
of the torch pointing at the spray path of the starter fluid, the trigger is
pulled, the torch is lit, and the can sprays causing a big flame.
Basically just find a way to make a trigger activated ignition on the
plastic handle that is clamped on to the spray can.
NOTE: You can use any aerosol can that will produce a flame. Also,
dont let the flame go up into the nozzle or it may explode.
Super soakers:
Fill a super soaker with gas.
the stream of gas with a lighter.
Pump it up. Pull the trigger and light
This is cool but after a while can be very dangerous! The gas will eat
away at the plastic that the parts, tank, and gun are made of; if you use it
for too long the tank can burst from the presser and blow up.
I would suggest trying to modify the gun and if possible, replace the
plastic parts with metal parts; and try to find a different tank that wont
get eaten by the gas.
11.3 Thermite:
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen
from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced
by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33.
The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture
can be ignited.
Red thermit:
Comments: This mixture is sometimes used for priming.
Preparation:
Pb3O4.............................................80
Ferro-silicon.....................................20
Other thermite mixes:

A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and
burns hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate
Fine ground Aluminum
Sulfur
5 parts
3 parts
2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of

finely powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety
fuse and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the
aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the
thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals
to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses
sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite must
be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70%
Aluminum 23%
Sulfur 7%
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325
degrees F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle
the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes
to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still
hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to
hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms
sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with water.
This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be made
not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The
resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.
EXOTIC THERMITES:
Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal flouridesmagnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound in the
mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely corrosive and
reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere
contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong
first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the teflon and
the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the
burning mixture. If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of
low energy metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead
flouride and 10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately
equal to cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate
and aluminum. When this burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts
water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as whitelockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to
be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but it
is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of
magnesium works well.
Devises:
THERMITE BOMB:
Use this carefully !
THERMITE WELL:
To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4
in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel over the
hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite and insert
a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This
should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well over your target
and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns,
making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the
well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small
delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten
iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of
the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb.
thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different
configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot
coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take
the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. This produces a
fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.
THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION:
This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want
to make it before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any
dimensions of containers or weights of charges because of the availability of
parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general
description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND.
Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be
electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor
side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz. Drill a
small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the
hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement.
Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the
end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a
thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the thermite is
electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting
of the flash powder charge. Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout
metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to
keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the
wires out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel
proof epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or
gasoline works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap
and it is done.
The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires.
When the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the
container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When
the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and
making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot
thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The
result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For
the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve
the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. But ask yourself, do
you really want to make this?
CAST THERMITE:
This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a
solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it
makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Fine and Coarse
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it
into a mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that
separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in
the sun for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours.
Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
Fighting thermite fires:

Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite
with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it does help contain it and
block some of the heat. The other way is to flood the thermite with a great
amount of water. This helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction.
If you use a small amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite
may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start fires from
the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch
fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.
11.4 Breathing Fire:

This is a cool thing to impress people with at parties and something I
do when I am bored. This can be pretty dangerous, so on the second fire
breathing method, make sure you read the precautions and safety tips.
Smaller flames:
Most people know about holding a lighter in your mouth while the button
is held, then pushing the gas out your mouth and lighting it. I took this a
step further. Take a butane refill canister, breath in deeply, put the nozzle
of the butane can in your mouth and push down on the bottom of the nozzle with
your finger. When your cheeks start to bulge, pull the can away, hold a
lighter in front of your face, push the gas out of your mouth quickly, and
light the gas.
If you cant do it well, try tipping you head back, before lighting the
gas. DO NOT INHALE the gas! You could possibly blow your lungs up while
breathing fire.
BIG flames:
*I got this info from this guys web site.
So Im crediting him.
Its dangerous. I have seen a couple of people burnt and I no longer do it.
A better way to set yourself on fire could once be found here (unfortunately,
that link is no longer with us and Limey is not responding to my e-mail - he
must have done it once too often). After a long period when the Web was devoid
of such valuable information, another site devoted to setting yourself on fire
has finally appeared here (it doesn't give step by step instructions, but I'm
sure you can improvise).
10 Practice with water

Practice with water to get a fine spray created by putting a small
quantity of water in the bottom of your mouth and blowing air out of a
small opening in you lips as fast as possible. Practice in order to get
the spray as fine as possible and avoid dribbling the water down your
chin as much as possible. If you are silly enough to move on to highly
flammable liquids you will notice that (probably due to the much lower
surface tension) you will inevitably get the lower portion of your face
covered with the liquid. You don't want it all over your chest as well.
11 Get medical insurance
Get the top notch coverage. Imagine being stuck in a public hospital
ward surrounded by other ghastly burns victims - not exactly a barrel of
laughs, is it. You want your own room with a nice view and no mirror.
12 Don't do it alone
You will need a friend or two, who don't care about you too much, with
the following equipment.
13 Fire Extinguisher
When your face catches on fire you will want it extinguished as soon as
possible. In your state of panic you won't be too fussy, but its
preferable to have something which works with flammable liquids, won't
cause chemical burns to your skin and eyes and won't cause you to inhale
nasty chemicals. A damp cloth or blanket might be best.
14 Car
Make sure your friends know how to get you to the nearest hospital.
Better still, practice just outside the entrance to the casualty
section.
15 First Aid Kit (optional)
If you only suffer very minor burns (for example, the chemical burns you
get from the liquid) then you don't really need a first aid kit. For
anything more serious you will want to jump in the car straight away.
The advantage of taking a first aid kit is that in years to come, when
people ask you that question ("what happened to your face") you will be
able to explain, smugly, that at least you had the foresight to take a
first aid kit. Unfortunately they will probably think you are stupid as
you are ugly since you realised the danger and still went ahead with it.
16 Milk (optional)
If you are an optimist its a good idea to have a glass of milk before
you start, to line your stomach. Its inevitable that you swallow some of
the liquid. On the other hand, if they have to perform surgery its
preferable to have an empty stomach. I'll leave it up to your good
judgment.
17 Flammable liquid
I'm not sure what the best liquid is. I have tried mentholated spirits
(alcohol) which does disgusting things to the inside of your mouth and
shellite (like petrol without the additives). Kerosene is probably
safer, though it probably tastes even worse than shellite. I believe
paraffin is better. There are also some products specially designed for
fire breathing, though some have been withdrawn because they cause
cancer. Unfortunately there are no delicious healthy low calorie drinks
which are also highly flammable.
Having said that (and having it on my web page for quite some time), I
received the following e-mail from someone who seemed to know what he
was talking about:
dude please stop using ANY fuel that burns with out a wick
or in liquid form. This will only cause you great pain, the
reason for paraffin or a professional liquid medium like
'XXXXX' (name deleted - see below) is that it will not burn
on your face if the flame gets too close and will not ignite
liquid on chin etc. I find the fact that you even mention
using alcohol or other highly flammable liquids on your site
and dangerous thing as it gives people the idea of using the
wrong fuel when they otherwise might not have thought about
it or taking yours as a definitive answer to the question
'what to use'.
18 Brand
You need something to hold a flame away from your hand. I have used a
stick with a bit of cloth soaked in the flammable liquid. You light it,
hold it away from your body, take a swig of the liquid and spray it a
bit above the flame. The atomised liquid should catch fire and burn very
quickly (like this). If you are not careful it will burn back towards
your face (like this) and set fire to the liquid on your face. Short,
very fast breaths with liquids which are not too explosive are safest.
Make sure you don't set fire to your hand or your friends either - the
fireball can move quite a distance (like this).
11.5 Fire Balls:

They are cheap and easy to make and can be very impressive. A little
warning, check the wind direction before you set it off. On occasions,
fireballs have had the tendency to turn on their creator (the creator being me
or you).
*Look in the extras section, then go into misc. then into pics; there
are some cool pics of what a nice could look like.
11.5-1 special effects fire ball:
Materials:
-Gasoline
-zip-lock bags
-thick metal tube(about three feet long)
-cherry bomb
-squib
-wire(300ft or longer)
-ignition source
procedure:
Find a BIG gravel pit. Dig a hole in the ground that is as big a round
as the metal tube and is about a foot and a half deep. Shove the metal tube
in the hole and fill dirt in around the space in the hole around the tube.
Make sure the tube is in the ground really tight. Now hook your squib to the
wire. Pull the fuse out of the cherry bomb, and shove the squib in the cherry
bomb and glue up the hole. Put the cherry bomb in the tube so it goes to the
bottom. Now take a plastic bag and fill it with gas and zip it up. Put the
bag down the tube. Step away from the tube with wires in hand till you get to
the end of the wires. Plug your ignition source into the wires. Get down.
And push the button. The ignition source with ignite the squib, which will
set off the cherry bomb, the gas will get ignited and blown out of the tube.
You should see a pretty big fire ball if you do it right. If you want a
bigger fire ball, then put in another bag of gas, and so on. Make sure not to
use too big of an explosive, or the tube may blow up; and make sure you are a
good distance away from it when it goes off.
11.5-2 Petrol Fireball:
To make a huge fireball you will need the following:
-Empty can (empty beans can or something like that)
-Petrol
-Plastic bag
-Black Powder
-Fuse
-Drill bit and Drill(for fuse hole)
(example)
Ok, start by drilling a hole 1 cm from the bottom of the can. Then place
a 5 inch long piece of fuse in the hole so it goes half way through the can.
Then place a 2 cm layer of Black Powder in the can so it cover the fuse. Now
take the plastc bag and pour some petrol in it and hold one of the top corners
so all the petrol will move to one edge of the plastic bag. Now gently swist
and tie the bag just above where the top of the petrol is in the bag.(confused
yet???). Now put the little pouch of petrol into the can so it is directly
above the layer of Black Powder and strech the very top part of the plastic
bag over the top of the can and cellotape it tight so it will remain hanging
over the Black Powder. Then put an improvised lid on the can (circle of
cardboard with a bit of cellotape holding it so the tin. When complete, place
on a flat surface and light the fuse then run like hell and watch as it
exploded with a huge fireball, and don't forget to take some pictures of your
pyrotechnic devices and send them in for me to put on the website.
11.5-3 Fireball from Hydrogen:

Although these are not the most impressive fireballs, they have an
advantage of being able to float in the air unlike others therefore some
interesting effects can be created. These are quite simple to make as the
chemicals are easy to get hold of. To create, fill a balloon with Hydrogen and
tie it up.
11.5-4 Fireball from Butane:
Butane can be bought as lighter gas and as gas for some gas fires which
makes it an easy option for fireballs as it is easy to obtain. Filling the
balloon can be difficult so I use an old pencil torch lighter case. I have
taken the valve off the top and then when I want to use it, I just stick the
top into the balloon and fill from the other end as if I was filling the
torch. Once it is filled, I just tie it and start having fun.
11.5-5 Fireball from Propane:
Fireballs created from Propane seem to be the most impressive. Propane
can be obtained from gas cylinders used for most large fires. It is also the
easiest to fill the balloon as all that is needed is for the balloon to be put
over the valve and for it to be turned on. Also, there is greater pressure
therefore lots can be made very quickly. The only trouble is that it smells
pretty bad. In case you haven't figured it out, all you do is put the balloon
over the nozzle and turn on the gas. Once its filled, tie the balloon and get
ready to use. Watch out for these ones. A friend did this and the fire ball
engulfed him. Although fun, (I also have been engulfed in fire a few times and
not just by gas filled balloons) it kinda singes you hair.
(propane balloon explosion)
11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges:
Naphthalene charges, or, more commonly nicknamed "Nap Bombs," are used
in the movie industry to simulate fiery explosions that look somewhat like a
plume of burning gasoline. They do have quite an impressive effect, and
surprisingly this effect is somewhat easy to duplicate, provided that one has
access to the proper materials.
NOTE: The term "nap bomb" is used only because it is the common
Hollywood nickname for naphthalene charges, and it is in no way meant to
depict "KeWl BoMZ" or any other similar destructive devices, nor does this
site advocate or depict methods for making "KeWl BoMZ" or similar devices.
Anyone considering to use and/or actually using naphthalene charges as
destructive devices deserves to be emasculated with a pair of laboratory
forceps, impaled upon a large rotissery apparatus, and slowly nitrated in the
usual mixed acids.
The first material that must be procured is Naphthalene, which is a
white volatile solid, formula C10H8. It is available in the form of mothballs
or moth flakes. Be careful when purchasing the mothballs though, as most
mothballs nowadays are made of Paradichlorobenzene, which will not burn and
therefore not work. Check the package; usually it will say either "Guarantee:
99% Paradichlorobenzene," or "Guarantee: 99% Naphthalene." Buy the "99%
Naphthalene" type. The next nessesary material is Black Powder or Pyrodex
(NOTE: Smokeless Powder will NOT work for this). Black Powder works a bit
better than Pyrodex, but Pyrodex still produces satisfactory results.
First, take a parallel wound kraft paper tube (the exact dimensions are
not nessesary), ram an epoxy/sawdust endplug into one end of the tube, and
allow the endplug mixture to harden and cure. When the endplug has completely
solidified, drill a small (~1/8") hole just above the inner end of the
endplug, perhaps about 1/8" beyond the inner end. Then insert a length of
Visco fuse into the hole, and seal around it with hot-melt glue. Then, fill
1/4th of the remaining space in the tube with Black Powder or Pyrodex, making
sure it does not get packed or tamped. Next, mix 30% by weight of BP/Pyrodex
with 70% by weight of Naphthalene by the diaper method, and fill about 3/8ths
(one and a half 4ths)of the tube space with it. Next, fill the remaining
5/8ths of the cardboard tube with powdered Naphthalene (powder it in a mortar
and pestle, or by coffee milling it). Now bury it in the ground until only 1"
or so of the tube is sticking out of the ground. You're done! If any of this
has confused you, see the below diagram.
(EXAMPLE)
11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS:
Materials:
-empty soup can
-drill
-black/ or smokeless powder
-Cremora coffee creamer
-visco cannon fuse
procedure:
You can make these as large as you want, but start with a small #10 can
to experiment and scale up from there.
Drill a fuse or electric match sized hole through the side of a #10 can,
right down next to the bottom, as far down as you can go, and still be IN the
can.
Then sprinkle some black powder or smokeless powder into the can, so
that the bottom is just barely covered with it. Then cover the black powder
with a layer of tissue paper.
Then fill the can with Cremora (brand powdered coffee creamernot all
creamers will work), or calf's milk substitute (from yer local feed and seed
or ag supply store). The higher the fat content, the better the fireball.
Next, (and avoid having any part of yourself that you care about over
the top of the can) insert the fuse or electric match into the hole you
drilled. Be sure and be at least 50 feet away, if not further, when igniting
it. A 5-gallon bucket makes a HUGE fireball and is basically done the same
way. You can whiten the flame, by adding some bright aluminum powder to the
Cremora.
11.6 Greek Fire:
Greek fire was like the first napalm. It was used in war back in the
roman days, like on the movie Gladiator. This stuff is a bit unheard of
these days.
Greek fire is made as follows: take sulfur, tartar, sarcocolla, pitch,
melted saltpeter, petroleum oil, and oil of gum, boil all these together,
impregnate tow with the mixture, and the material is ready to be set on fire.
This fire cannot be extinguished by urine, or by vinegar, or by sand.
11.7 Other Incendiaries:
Chlorate-Sugar mix:
This mixture can be either an incendiary or an explosive. Sugar is the
common granulated household type. Either potassium chlorate (KClO3) or sodium
chlorate (NaClO3) can be used; but potassium is potassium is preferred.
Proportions can be by equal parts or by volume, or 3 parts chlorate to 2 parts
sugar preferred. Mix in or on a non-sparking surface. Unconfined, the mixture
is an incendiary. Confined in a tightly capped length of pipe, it will explode
when a spark is introduced. Such a pipe will produce lovely casualties, but is
not very good for breaching of cutting up. Concentrated sulfuric acid will
ignite this very fast burning incendiary mixture. Placing the acid in a
gelatin capsule, balloon, or other suitable container will provide a delay,
(length of which depends on how long it takes for the acid to eat through the
container).
Potassium Permanganate And Sugar:

Another fast burning, first fire mix is obtained by mixing potassium
permanganate, 9 parts, to one part sugar. It is some what hotter than the
chlorate sugar mix, and can be ignited by the addition of a few drops of
glycerine.
Molded Bricks That Burn:

Proportions are 3 parts aluminum powder, 4 parts water and 5 parts
plaster of paris. Mix the aluminum and plaster thoroughly together, then add
the water and stir vigorously. Pour the resulting mix into a mold, let harden,
and then dry for 2 to 3 weeks. These blocks are hard to ignite, and take a
long time to make, but when ignited on mild steal, they have a tendency to
melt it.
The Fire Bottle:

Fill a good Jack Daniel's bottle about one-fifth to one-fourth full with
sulfuric acid. Fill the remainder with gasoline, kerosine, or a good
combination of the two and mix thoroughly. Add water to Potassium Chlorate and
sugar mix, and soak rags in the mix. Wrap the rags around the bottle, tie in
place, and allow to dry. When thrown at a T-62 or other target, the bottle
will break, the acid will ignite the chlorate-sugar mix on the rags, which
will ignite the fuel.
11.8 Negetive-X
*Start a Fire with a drop of Water!

We used to call it "Negative-X" (I have no idea why), but I'm sure it's
known by other names. Mix the powders together, pour it in a small pile and
put a drop of water on it. In about a second, it will bubble and smoke and
instantly burst into a blue-green flame.
"NEGATIVE-X"
Ammonium Nitrate
28 %
Ammonium Chloride
3 %
Zinc Dust
69 %
Comments:
Grind the Ammonium Nitrate and the Ammonium Chloride together in a
mortar & pestle until they are a fine powder. Add the proper amount of Zinc
Dust and mix well.
[*Note that as soon as this is mixed, it becomes very water sensitive!]
Even a tiny amount of water will ignite the mixture. You must use this
composition immediately after it is made - DO NOT STORE IT for any length of
time, and do not mix it with other chemicals. It's a good idea to mix this
formula & conduct this experiment outside.
Take about a teaspoon full of the mixture and make a small pile of it on
the ground. Add a drop of water and quickly stand back. In a second it will
bubble, hiss and smoke, and instantly burst into a blue-green flame. If you're
really bored, you can make a few piles of Negative-X on the ground and try and
hit them with a water pistol from a distance away.
WARNING:
Don't store this stuff, use all that you make each time. Eventually,
(depending on how humid it is where you are) it will absorb enough moisture
from the air (or whatever else it is touching) and ignite itself without
warning! This is NOT something you want to mix on a rainy day.
11.9 How to make alcohol:
First you must obtain (steal) a holding tank. I recommend those 6 gallon
Alhambra water jugs which are often left on porches and in driveways for
refills. Just take it off the porch at 3:00 AM and run it home. Now, put it
where you are going to put your still. They need to be kept together. Hide
your still even if you don't have parents that will shit when they see it.
This is illegal by federal law, and you could get busted pretty well. Make
your still so it is collapsible and you can fit it all into a small box. Hide
the box in your room. When you are going to use the still, take it out and
hide it behind some bushes where a passing state trooper, snoopy neighbor, or
phed busting you for pirated games won't see it. Keep the Alhambra jug where
the still is going to be, cause they are way too big to hide anywhere.
Also, keep your still somewhere with a good breeze or away from people
who will smell it. When you are fermenting the shit, it will smell like puke
or even worse. When you are distilling it, your heater might put off smoke.
The alcohol will smell like alcohol, and heated mash smells worse than shit.
Now go buy a shitload of fresh or frozen whatever (check the list
below). Frozen corn will be easiest to deal with because it is already cut
off the cob and is very forgiving with beginners. Besides, it's all part of a
great American tradition: Moonshine!
+--------------------------+------------------------+
| Ingredient
| Product
|
|--------------------------|------------------------|
| Rye or Potatoes
| Vodka
|
| Molasses or Sugar Cane | Rum
|
| Corn
| Moonshine
|
| Wheat or Rye
| Whiskey
|
| Barley or Rice
| Beer
|
| Grapes
| Wine
|
| Apple Juice
| Hard Cider
|
| Rice
| Sake
|
+--------------------------+------------------------+
Put about 10 bags of corn in each jug and no more, because the carbon
dioxide being released sometime pushes it up and out and you could get the
shit all over the ground. What a waste. Besides, it will start to rot in the
ground and smell even worse.
Anyway, add just enough lukewarm water to cover the surface and leave
the stuff exposed to air for about 2 weeks at room temperature. After a few
days it will bubble and look and smell like puke, but that's no problem. It
should do that. Just be sure you've got adequate ventilation.
Installing a small fan in your Alhambra jug is no problem. Drilling
holes in the sides of plastic with a sharp drill bit is easy. Drill two holes
near the top, where there won't be any corn (fans do tend to heat up and short
circuit when exposed to water) and insert two tubes. Make the fan blowing air
into your jug, and not out. The mist from the mash will wear it down after a
while.
Now, for the still. This is complicated, so bear with us. First, take
a
big beaker or something like it and put a big tube going out the top. You
should glue around this tube, so none of the gas will escape. Now, run a
smaller tube into the side of the bigger tube, and connect a valve to it.
Now, connect the other side of the valve to your huge thing of fermented
whatever,
but make sure the tube connects at the bottom and goes straight across so the
pressure of the water will push it along the pipe (pumps get too messy). I
mount my Alhambra jug on bricks, so now the whole thing looks like this:
|
| |
Fermented |
__ __
| |
Shit
|_____|______| |
___________/----|_|-----, |
|
|
Valve
|--|
|------|
/ \
|Bricks|
/
\
|------|
/Beaker\
|______|
(________)
Now, bend the big pipe around, so it is pointing down at a 45 degree
angle. Connect a bigger pipe to it. This will be the condenser. Connect a
small pipe leading out of the condenser to a big cup or something that you
will catch your 200 proof alcohol in. Also, make a rack to put the beaker on,
so you can put a can of sterno or a bunsen burner under it. I would recommend
putting a thermometer inside the beaker, so you can leave the temperature just
above the boiling point of alcohol. If you don't, you won't get very strong
alcohol.
________
|
/ ____ \
Fermented |
__ __
/ /
\ \/\
Shit
|_____|______| |
\
\
___________/----|_|-----, |
/cond-\
|
|
Valve
|--|
\ enser>
|------|
|Bricks|
|------|
|
|
|------|
|
|
|------|
|______|
/ \
\
/
/
\
\ /
/Beaker\
\ \_____________
(________)
\-------------,|
/
/\
\
^ Pipe ^
||
|
\/
|
|___________|
| __||__
|
| Alcohol |
| |Sterno| |
\_________/
Everything should be a little farther apart than depicted in the picture,

but I only wanted to use 60 columns (80 columns with 1 inch margins).
However, the longer the tube leading away from the beaker to the condenser,
the longer the distillation process will take, so keep that quite close.
If you get the alcohol too close to the flame, it might evaporate. Keep that
at the end of a long pipe.
Now, there is only one last step. Take a very long length of surgical
tubing (the stuff they make water weenies out of) and wrap it around the
condenser, leaving almost no space in between coils. I usually wrap some duct
tape around the tubing so it keeps it in place and insulates it a bit. Now,
run one end of the tubing to mom's flower garden and the other end to a
valve. Connect the other end of the valve to a hose or some other cold water
source. Don't do anything stupid like use liquid nitrogen instead of water
cause it won't speed up the distilling process. This is what the finished
still should look like:
________
|
/ ____ \ ______
Fermented |
__ __
/ /
\ \/,----- -=> Heated
Shit
|_____|______| |
\ / \
__ __ Water
___________/----|_|-----, |
/ / / \____|__
|
|
Valve
|--|
\/ / / >--|_|- <=- Cold
|------|
/ \
\/ / / Valve
Water
|Bricks|
/
\
\/ /
|------|
/Beaker\
\ \_____________
|
|
(________)
\-------------,|
|------|
/
/\
\
^ Pipe ^
||
|
|
|
\/
|
|___________|
|------|
| __||__ |
| Alcohol |
|______|
| |Sterno| |
\_________/
A friend of mine was going to be doing a lot of distilling cause he made
a HUGE still. He was going first- class. He lived near a creek that stayed
pretty cool, so he was going to figure out how to use that unlimited supply of
water. The creek grew plenty of bushes, so he hid his still in them. He even
painted the valves green and stuck them out of the bushes and glued leaves on
to them so nobody could tell it was a still. But he still didn't have any
water. He couldn't have a small electric pump, cause he didn't have any
electricity.
As it turns out, he now has 4 lengths of surgical tubing going down to
the water, around his (superhuge) condenser. He made a rock and concrete dam
about 3.5 feet high, to get a fast stream of suction. He then ran the tubes
down to below the dam, and sucked on them. He siphons the water up and out of
the creek, through the condenser, and back into the creek. His still is
awesome! That thing can run as much as he wants it too, cause he isn't
wasting any water, and it won't show up on any water bill.
If you are going to be distilling a lot of stuff, you better make a tube
going out of the bottom of the beaker so you can dump out the water and
garbage and every now and then. Of course, connect it to a valve, so you
won't loose any precious alcohol that's trying to turn into steam in the
beaker. Make sure any tubes (like this one) aren't made out of glass and can
melt. It's bad when tubes melt, cause that means you have to rebuild the
still almost from scratch.
Now that you've got it all set up and the corn (or whatever) is
fermented
and hooked up to the beaker, turn the valve on a bit to drip some puke of your
Alhambra jug into your beaker. Turn on the sterno or bunsen burner to a high
flame so it will heat up the beaker. Turn on the cold-water valve so you have
cold water flowing around the condenser at a trickle. If the water coming out
of the condenser is cold, turn the valve so even less water is coming out,
because you don't want to use too much water. But, if it's warm, it's not
doing its job. Keep the water coming out about lukewarm.
As this thing's just starting up, keep a good eye on your thermometer.
You want to keep the temperature just above the boiling point of alcohol
(which is less than the boiling point of water: 212 degrees). This is so you
can separate the water from the alcohol by turning only the alcohol into
steam, and you can get better stuff. If you're not sure of the boiling point
of alcohol, ask your science teacher, or look it up, cause I don't know
either.
Now, watch it, and adjust the valves so the fermented stuff coming out
of
the Alhambra jug just equals the steam going up the pipe, and it won't fill up
or boil dry. Adjust the cold water valve so the water coming out of the
surgical tubing is slightly warm. Now, wait. Read a book or download another
Six Feet Under production, but always keep an eye on the still. When the
Alhambra jug is empty and the beaker is dry, you are done. Don't expect this
to go very quick, however.
If you like almost pure alcohol, distill it again. If you do it right,
you could have no water at all inside your liquid high. However, even I
haven't been able to get a batch that good. All it takes is practice and
getting to know your still. They all have different personalities.
You now have around 198 proof ethyl alcohol in that collecting cup.
Pour
the alcohol through activated charcoal to remove that nasty shit that makes
you retarded and blind. The stuff is now safe to drink, but don't. One swig
of 200 proof alcohol will probably kill you. 150 proof is only for
experienced drinkers (derelicts). The highest proof I've ever had is 138, and
it must have been the worst experience of my life.
Now, mix it in with about 3 parts alcohol and 5 parts Kool-Aid or
distilled water or something. The more Kool-Aid or water, the less the
proofage. To give you an idea, beer is around 6 proof, wine coolers are
around 12, and wine is around 20. I wouldn't recommend more than 100 proof at
all. If this is your first time, make sure you have a little bit alcohol and a
shitload of Kool-Aid. You probably won't notice the taste or overdose that
way.
If it goes wrong, keep trying. Usually the first time, the stuff will
taste like shit and be almost all water. It just takes some practice. Also,
proof is roughly percentage times 2. 50% alcohol is 100 proof alcohol. 100%
is way too high to drink. Never go above 75 percent alcohol (3 parts alcohol,
1 part something else), which is 150 proof. That shit could kill you.
11.10 Plaster incendiary:
It is made by mixing 6 parts by weight of anhydrous calcium sulphate

(Plaster of Paris) and 4 parts by weight of "paint-grade" aluminium powder this is about 300 mesh, and spherical. Mix the two as thoroughly as you can
(screen it to remove lumps), then add enough water to form a thin paste, that
can be poured into moulds. Pour it into the mould of your choice, I chose
paper tubes, and let the plaster set. Then carefully remove the block from
your mould, and place it on a baking sheet. Bake it in the oven at gas mark 1
for a few hours, until nearly all the water has been driven out (ie, until the
block is nearly equal in weight to the starting weight of your plaster and
aluminium), then increase the temperature to gas mark 2 or even 3 until all
the water has gone. Don't get it too hot too soon, the charge might crack.
11.11 Flash Paper:

Flash Paper is made using the same process as touch paper but the key
difference is as the name suggests, it goes off with a flash rather than
smoldering. It is easily prepared at home using a strong oxidizer such as
chlorates. The method described will work with any oxidizer unless it is
insoluble in water (which is unlikely as I cant think of any non-polar

oxidizers). I use either Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate as both are
strong oxidizers and easily obtained. Although Potassium Chlorate is preferred
as it isn't hydroscopic, Sodium Chlorate can be used and still work even when
damp if the Flash Paper is prepared well. The materials required will be
boiling water, kitchen towels (although anything can be used, just make sure
its absorbent), strong oxidizer (chlorate as it is easily obtained) and two
containers.
To start, put the kettle to boil. The amount of water required varies
depending on the amount of Flash Paper you intend to make. Mean while, take
your paper and fold it in half two or three times. Continue until you have a
desired quantity.
Now take the boiling water and pour it into one of the containers. Now
begin to add your oxidizer and stir it until no more will dissolve. This is
called a super saturated solution. Take a sheet of kitchen towel and hold it
over the container and begin to pour the super saturated solution over it
until it is all soaked. Now put it to the side and repeat with another bit of
kitchen towel. Once it has all been poured through, pour everything in the
collection container back into the pouring one and repeat. Continue this
process until no more solution is left. You now need to dry your Flash Paper
and it will then be ready to be used.
Flash Paper burns very fast (faster than black powder if made well) even
unconfined. You must hold it with something such as pliers and not hold it in
your hand. It is more dangerous than the Flash Paper that can be bought I
think and I would not be surprised either to find that it is. Also, due to how
light it is, it also has the tendency to propel itself if lit and not held
with something. Lower quality Flash Paper could be used as a fuse however you
should familiarize yourself with its burning properties before you consider
using it as a fuse.
12.0 Fuses, delays, and timers:

You will most likely need to make something to ingnite your devise or
composition. Here is everything you will need to know to do that.
12.1 FUSE IGNITION:

12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse:
(roll of Visco)
(piece of Visco)
Materials Needed:
-Hobby Syringe (syringe without needle)
I had a bit of a hard time finding these. I eventually found them at my
local pharmacy, who sold them for the application of topical intra-oral
medication. They usually cost about 25 cents, although the lady behind the
counter gave me four of them for free. Also, I have heard that a farmer's
supply store is a great place to look (the farmers use them for veterinary
purposes).
-Hollow-cored Cotton String
I buy hollow-cored string from a local art store, which sells it because
it makes an excellent wick for oil lamps or homemade candles. It usually comes
with another, somewhat thinner string threaded through the core to prevent
stretching. This should be removed.
-Meal Powder
The meal powder that I had used was the homemade ball-milled variety.
However, commercial meal powder from the local firearms shop works just as
well.
-Dextrin
I had used homemade dextrin in my Visco, but dextrin from health food
stores or Skylighter works just as well.
-25% Nitrocellulose Lacquer (optionally dyed green or red)
The nitrocellulose lacquer can be either homemade or bought from Skylighter. I
used homemade. Also, adding a bit of camphor to the NC lacquer will
plasticize the nitrocellulose after the solvent has evapourated, allowing
for a more flexible fuse (the commercial plastic "Celluloid" is
nitrocellulose plasticized with camphor).
Procedure:
1: Make Black Powder (BP) paste: Take 10 parts by weight of meal powder and
thoroughly mix with 1 part by weight of dextrin (ie, mill it in a ball mill
for half an hour). Boil some water and add it slowly to the BP/dextrin mix,
while stirring, until the mixture has twice the consistency of white glue.
2: Remove the plunger from the syringe and plug the hole at the bottom with a
thumb. Pour the BP paste into the syringe, filling it almost to the top.
Reinsert the plunger and turn the syringe upside down, and depress the plunger
until all excess air in the syringe has been removed.
3: Insert the nozzle of the hobby syringe into one end of the hollow core
string and slowly depress the plunger so as to allow maximum consistency of BP
paste in the center of the Visco, allowing for a more consistent burn rate.
The string should ideally be 1 meter in length. Refill the syringe using the
method outlined in step 2 whenever necessary. Continue injecting the BP paste
until it is visibly exuding from the end opposite of injection. This means
that the core is as full as it is going to get.
4: Remove the string from the syringe's nozzle and lay it down on a flat
surface. Gently roll the string between the heel of one's hands and the flat
surface to further even out BP paste distribution and increase burn rate
consistency. Allow the string to dry outside in the sun for a period of 24
hours, turning the string over every hour or so to prevent the BP paste filler
from becoming uneven.
5: After the filler has dried, apply a thin coating of 25% Nitrocellulose
lacquer to the entire external surface of the string and allow it to dry in
the sun. This will waterproof the fuse and allow it to be used in potentially
wet situations.
6: Let the fuse sit in the sun for 24 hours after all the wet fuse components
have dried to ensure minimum moisture content, which interferes with the
burning of the fuse. Check the burn rate, and label each length of fuse with a
sticker that indicates the exact burn rate of the particular fuse. This is not
necessary but highly recommended as each fuse's burn rate may be different
from the next one's.
7: The imitation Visco is now ready for use. It can be used wherever
commercial Visco is used.
Comments:
When I was injecting the BP paste into the string, I occasionally
noticed it 'squirming' out of the weave of the string. This tells you that you
are injecting the BP paste too fast. If you notice that this happens, slow
down your injection speed. Also, wrapping the external surface of the string
temporarily in masking tape seems to efficiently hold in the paste during
injection. This means that using a faster injection rate than would normally
be usedis possible.
The fuse I made using the above outline instructions burns a bit faster
than commercial Visco does. In the course of experimenting, I have found that
binder-fuelled fuse comps burn slower than do BP or other comps, whilst still
providing plenty of heat. Therefore, substituting a KNO3/Red gum composition
in (m)ethanol (acetone dissolves the syringes) for the BP paste stated above
would provide a slower burning, though just as reliable, fuse. Also, using
less sulphur and more charcoal in the BP used for the BP paste will slow the
burn rate. But, as the old adage goes, "to each, his own."
12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Black Match is the most used type of Fuse in pyrotechnics. This fuse can be
made even by a novice pyrotechnic enthusiast. As I have learned to make good
black match it requires a lot of practice to create a good Black Match fuse.
Ingredients:
-FFFFg Black Powder (Goex or Elephant Only)

-Cornstarch or Dextrin
-Cotton String (Non-waxed)
Tools Need:
Coffee
Hobby
Plastic Mixing Spoon
Paper
Latex or Plastic Gloves
can
or
Pan
Knife
Towels
Procedure:
Make sure to do this outside, you don't want this to ignite inside when
drying. It normally takes about a day to dry.
Mixing the ingredients:

In your coffee pot or whatever you are using to mix the ingredients mix,
1/4 teaspoon of dextrin, 3 tablespoons of FFFFg Black Powder, and 30ml of hot
water. You want to make sure that you mix the ingredients very well. The
consistency should be that of oatmeal.
Improvement: (This step is not necessary but will greatly improve upon the
reliability of the fuse.)
With only one string the fuse will still work however, what if you added
more strings to the fuse. There are multiple ways to do this.
1. Have 2 coffee can with the mixture in it and a string in each, after the
string is dipped in the black powder solution twist the string together. When
the strings dry they will be stuck to each other.
2. The other way to improve the string is to braid 3 pieces to string

together. This will create area for the black powder to stick to the string.
Add the String:

To prevent the Black Powder Mix from getting under your skin I recommend
putting on some either plastic or latex gloves. With how sensitive things are
now, you don't want to get question repeatedly why you have Black Powder on
you hands. I find it easy to soak some string in the mixture you want to rub
in the paste to make sure that the Black powder really gets absorbed.
Letting the String Dry:

Lay it out on a piece of sheet metal, lean, plexiglass, or other nonabsorbent material (definitely not wood) to dry. Your fuse will stick to the
board and when you pull off the string some of the powder will be left on the
board and this will ruin your fuse. Keep on soaking the string in the mixture
until there is no more left in the container. This should create about 40 feet
of black match. Let this dry outside for at least a day. After the string has
dried wind it up on something and try not to handle much, bits of Black Powder
will flake off and the fuse won't work as well.
12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE:

Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on
the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the
bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black
powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the
filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE:

Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to
the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and
then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
about inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size
wire to use.
Cut a by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a
small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. Place the
wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder.
Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else
except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires
are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
A single flashlight battery will set this off.
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse:

Quick Match is a slightly modified piece of Black Match that has been enclosed
by a 1/4" paper tube. This helps force the smoke and sparks forward when the
Black Match is lit inside. This is great for setting off Multiple fireworks
within a short amount of time. This is what professional pyrotechnicians use.
Items you need:

Ingredients:
-Black Match from previous
-Kraft Paper
Tools Need:
-Cool Glue gun
-Glue Sticks
-Hobby Knife or Scissors
-5/16 wooden dowel at least 24"
Before you begin this project you should all ready of made some Black Match.
Procedure:
(This you can work on inside.)

Making the pipes:
You want to create enough pipes to cover all of your string. Cut the Kraft
paper into 1 1/2" strips going from one side of the roll to the other. After
you get a couple of strips cut, you want to take the wooden dowel and bend all
of the strips around the dowel this will help make the paper easier to hold
and glue. Now only take one of the strips and completely bend it around the
dowel. Take the cool glue gun and put a small stream of glue along where the
end will overlap the Kraft paper. You want to do this the entire length of
the pipe to make sure that no gases can escape from it. After you make of few
of these move on to the next step.
Connecting the Pipes:
You are going to take the Black Match that you created and use it to thread
the Kraft tubes that you created onto the fuse. To connect the pipes you are
going to put a 1" slit in the end of one of the pipes that you want to
connect. Put a bead of glue around that end an push it into the other tube.
Use the glue gun to smear glue around where the tubes are connected. You are
now done with that section of fuse.
12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter:

The Nichrome/Fuse igniter is easy to make from available materials, and has
the extra safety advantage of a short delay produced by the fuse. This is the
best igniter to use for smaller Black Powder type ( Estes or homemade) rocket
motors.
The materials needed for the Nichrome Wire/Fuse Igniter. A short length of
Visco Safety Fuse, about 1.5" of Nichrome wire, and some insulated wire. You
can use just about just about any type of insulated wire ( speaker wire, alarm
hook-up wire, etc... all available at Radio Shack or your local hardware store
). Stranded wire is generally easier to work with, and much more flexible than
solid wire. It's best to use wire no thinner than 20 gauge. If you plan on
running the wires a long distance like 20 or 50 feet for launching model
rockets, etc., then 16 gauge or 14 gauge wire would be better. The lower the
wire gauge number is, the thicker the wire... and the less power it will take
to fire the igniter.
If you need some Nichrome wire, it is sold in 10 foot rolls, and is available
at the Shells, Tubes & Fuse page.
Strip about 1" of insulation off the ends of each wire.
Using a sewing needle and a pliers, push the needle through the end of the
fuse to make a small hole.
Twist the Nichrome wire tightly around one of the wires and fold over so it is
secure.
Insert the other end of the Nichrome into the small hole in the fuse and
connect to the remaining wire by twisting and bending over as you did before.
Make sure the two ends of the wire are not touching each other, or the igniter
will not work.
Finally, fold a piece of tape over the connections so it protects them

and prevents them from touching each other. When power is applied to the
opposite ends of the wire, the small piece of Nichrome will heat up, glow red
hot, and ignite the fuse. Depending on how long your wires are, and how thick
the wire you used is... as little as 3 volts ( 2 flashlight batteries ) will
be sufficient to make the igniter work. Long lengths of wire may require as
much as 12 volts, and very long runs may require even more.
12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK:

Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a
garden supply for tying up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test
it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed
and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in
a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it
is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur
will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and
harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These
wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing
unpredictable burning times.
12.1-8 Connecting fuses together:
Connecting Visco to Visco

The image on the left side shows the placement of the fuses, and the image on
the right shows what it would look like after electrical tape (shown in gray
so it won't be confused with the black match) has been applied.
Overlap the two
fuses that are to be
connected by at at
least 1 inch, and
tape them tightly
together with
electrical tape.
Make sure the tape
covers the very ends
of both fuses.
Visco becomes very
hot and molten while
burning, and easily
ignites another fuse
that is touching
it. The electrical
tape also holds in
the heat, insuring
ignition.
Connecting Visco to Black Match
Overlap the two
fuses by about an
inch and a half,
then tape them in
the middle. DO NOT
tape them over the
entire overlap
section. Black
match doesn't burn
well (or at all)
when taped. This
just holds the black
match close enough
to the Visco so that
it can be lit.
Connecting Visco to Quick Match
Cut a little bit of
paper pipe off of
the quick match so
the black match
inside sticks out.
Insert a piece of
Visco at least 1
inch into the pipe.
Crunch the paper
down around the
Visco and black
match, and cover it
in electrical tape.
When the burning end
of the Visco enters
the pipe, it will
immediately ignite
the black match and
send fire racing own
the tube.
Connecting Black Match to Visco

This type of
connection is kind
of tricky due to how
difficult Visco is
to ignite. First
off, cut the Visco
at an angle to
expose more of the
powder core inside.
Bend the black match
back on itself about
an inch, making sure
it touches the
powder core in the
Visco. Tape it, but
not too tightly.
Connecting Black Match to Black Match
Overlap the two
fuses by at least an
inch and a half.
Then just tape the
two together like
you would two pieces
of Visco, but don't
do it quite as
tightly, and don't
tape over the ends
of each fuse. Black
match doesn't really
like to burn while
wrapped completely
in tape, so this
allows a little
extra room for it to
burn to be sure the
fire transfer takes
place within the
tape.
Connecting Black Match to Quick Match
Pretty much the same

as connecting Visco
to quick match.
Stick the black
match about 1 inch
into the quick match
paper pipe, then
crunch down the
paper around the
fuses and tape it.
Don't tape it very
tightly, just enough
to make it stay in.
If there's too much
pressure, the black
match may just
fizzle out once it
gets to the taped
point.
Connecting Quick Match to Visco
Basically the same

thing as connecting
visco to quick
match, only
reverse. In fact, I
just used the same
picture, but flipped
it in order to look
like I drew a whole
new one! The only
difference is that
you should make a
small vent hole at
the end to prevent
the hot gases from
just blasting the
visco out of the end
like a projectile
without igniting it.
Connecting Quick Match to Black Match
Once again, just the

same as connecting
black match to quick
match. Once again,
don't tape it too
tightly or it will
choke off the flame
and extiguish it.
Connecting Quick Match to Quick Match
Strip about 1/2"-1"

of paper off of
either end of the
pieces of
quickmatch. Crease
down one side so
that you're able to
slide it into the
other pipe (as shown
at right), and
attach with tape or
a small amount of
glue.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Visco

Cut a angled slit in
the fuse to expose
the core. Overlap
the lead wires of
the ignitor over the
fuse, then bend it
back around so that
the match
composition touches
the powder core of
the fuse. Tape this
tightly, so that the
hot gases produced
by the ematch are
trapped inside and
ignite the visco.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Black Match
Same as above, but

try to wrap the end
of the black match
around the ematch
head to insure
ignition, then tape
as shown. A much
more reliable method
would be to connect
the ematch to a
short length of
quick match, then
connect the quick
match to the bare
black match.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Quick Match
Cut about an inch of

the paper pipe off
of the quickmatch,
and bend the exposed
fuse back on itself
and push it inside.
Stick the ematch in
at least and inch,
and tape the end
tightly. It's
nearly impossible
for this type of
connection to fail.
12.2 IMPACT IGNITION:

Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous war
activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be
kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter:

One of the best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses
factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black powder firearms is
one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $20. To
use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder
nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask
for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that
goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put
the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
|
|
_
|
|
| |
|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
____| |^^^^^^^^^|
|
__________|
|
|
No. 11
|_______|
percussion
_______
cap
|
|
here |
|__________
|____
|
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_|
|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
|
|
|________________|
------- Threads for screwing

nipple onto bomb
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a
small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR:
A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the
common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover
off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small
metal rod holding it in place.
CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry
gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.
Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be
effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs
in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can
be easily peeled away.
The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based
smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste.
Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal
rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely
covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the
remainder then ignition should be very reliable.
To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be
attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the
appropriate end will hit the ground first.
12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION:

Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device will explode, within fractions of a second.
Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person
suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by
at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model
rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model
rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack.
All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current
through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit
better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas
rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate
KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in
most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the
job.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION:

Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
12.3-2 Mercury Switches:
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts
electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A /
\
B
_____wire +______/_________
\
\
( Hg
)|
/
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch
the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does
not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type
of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a
swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of the door would knock the
switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
the switch into the vertical position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or
squib in an explosive device.
12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators:
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator
to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles
away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the
same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that
they are rather costly.
However, there could possibly be a reason that a
terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls
the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of
the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect
the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
12.4 Detonators and Boosters:
Detonators (also called blasting caps) contain small amounts of primary

high explosive used to detonate a less sensitive secondary explosive. Here are
a few defintions useful to the beginner from www.wmd-nm.org/:
Term: Primer Explosive

Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as the first step
(detonation) in an explosive chain. PRIMARY explosives are initiated by shock,
impact, heat, or heat-producing friction. Common examples include lead azide,
lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate used in blasting caps.
Term: Secondary Explosive
Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as a booster and/or
main charge after the first step in an explosive chain. Secondary explosives
are relatively insensitive to shock, friction, flame, or heat compared to
PRIMARY explosives. They may be initiated or detonated by a strong explosive
wave. Common examples include (1) boosters: pentolite, TNT, RDX, PENT,
tetrytol, and tetryl; (2) main charges: dynamites and ammonium nitrate; and
(3) blasting agents: nitro-carbo-nitrate.
Term: Blasting cap
Definition: A device used to initiate an explosive train. Commonly referred to
as detoners, they contain PRIMARY explosives. May be either electrically or
nonelectrically fired. Blasting caps are extremely sensitive and will explode
unless handled carefully.
Term: Booster
Definition: High explosive boosters, also called primer explosives, or simply
primers, are explosives that provide the detonation link in the explosive
train between the very sensitive PRIMARY explosives and the comparatively
insensitive main charge high explosives. It amplifies the detonation wave of
the primary explosive.
The design of a basic detonator is very simple. It is just a container,

usually a cylinder, filled with a primary explosive and having either a fuse
or electrical ignition. You could use just about anything for the container, I
like to use a section of a plastic pen. Commercial detonators are metal, which
works well, but be aware of explosives that can react with metal, especially
HMTD. For the pen design, I stuck a fuse in one end and glued it in place.
Next, the primary is added and the other end is plugged. With sensitive
explosives you must be very careful filling, pressing, and sealing.
Pressing your primary will improve the VOD and make it better at
detonating the main charge. It is also however, one of the most dangerous
parts of dealing with high explosives. Ideally you would have some kind of
mechanical means to press caps where you are not near it and do not perform
the pressing directly, but with something like a lever that will push down
(slowly, gently, and smoothly) a rod slightly smaller in diameter than the
inside of the cap. This is all done behind a shield so you will be safe from
and accidental detonation.
Boosters are very simple as well. Commercially they are generally PETN
or PETN based, and most often used to set off ANFO, which is too insensitive
to detonate with just a blasting cap. Any HE can be used for a booster that
will detonate from a cap: TNP, HDN, etc. You could even use primary like an AP
cap with and AN/AP booster to detonate ANFO. Keep in mind of course that this
will be more dangerous than a "normal" booster as the purpose of a booster is
to minimize the use of sensitive primary explosives. You can make a booster
simply by putting your explosive in a suitable container and either making a
hole in it to insert the detonator or simply attaching the detonator to the
side of the booster by taping it. This is then placed in the main charge to
detonate it.
Warning! NEVER keep a detonator in a charge until use. If the detonator
accidentally goes off on its own damage will hopefully be minimal, but if it
goes off while in the main charge your problems will be a lot bigger.
(Pen detonators:)
(Diagram of a commercial detonator: )
(Commercial booster:)
12.5 Firing systems:
*This is how the military does it
HOW TO PREPARE FIRING SYSTEMS

Information on the preparation and placement of demolition charges is in FM 525 and in GTA 5-10-27. This appendix covers the preparation of firing systems
that are basic to all demolition work. There are two types of firing systems
-- NONELECTRIC SYSTEM and ELECTRIC SYSTEM.
NONELECTRIC SYSTEM
To prepare a nonelectric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. Clear the cap well of a block of TNT or push a hole about the
size of a blasting cap (3 cm [1 1/3 in] deep and .65 cm [1/4 in] in
diameter) in a block of C4 explosive.
STEP 2. To help prevent a misfire, cut and discard 15-cm (6-in) length
of fuse from the free end of the time blasting fuse. That part of the
fuse may have absorbed some moisture from the air through the exposed
powder in the end of the fuse.
STEP 3. Determine what length of fuse is needed. To do this, first

compute the burning time of a 91.4-cm (3-ft) section of fuse. Divide
this burning time by 3 to find the burning time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of
fuse. Next, determine the time it takes to reach a safe distance from
the explosion. Now divide the time required to reach that distance by
the burn time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of fuse. This will give the number of
centimeters (ft) of fuse needed.
STEP 4. Inspect the nonelectric blasting cap to make sure it is clear of

foreign matter.
STEP 5. Gently slip the blasting cap over the fuse so that the flash
charge in the cap is in contact with the end of the time fuse. DO NOT
FORCE THE FUSE INTO THE CAP.
STEP 6. After seating the cap, crimp it 3.2 mm (1/8 in) from the open
end of the cap. Hold it out and away from your body when crimping.
STEP 7. When using TNT, insert the blasting cap into the cap well. When
using C4, place the cap into the hole made in the C4 and mold the C4
around the cap. DO NOT FORCE THE CAP INTO-THE HOLE.
STEP 8. Insert the free end of the fuse into an M60 fuse igniter and
secure it in place by screwing on the fuse holder cap.
STEP 9. To fire the fuse igniter, remove the safety pin, hold the barrel
in one hand. Take up the slack, before making the final strong pull. If
the fuse igniter misfires, reset it by pushing the plunger all the way
in. Then try to fire it as before. If it still misfires, replace it.
STEP 10. If a fuse igniter is not available, split the end of the fuse
and place the head of an unlighted match in the split. Make sure the
match head is touching the powder train.
STEP 11. Then light the inserted match head with a burning match or
strike the inserted match head on a matchbox.
If the fuse burns but the explosive charge does not go off, there is a
misfire. Wait 30 minutes before trying to clear it. If the misfire charge was
not tamped (nothing packed around it), lay another charge of at least one
block of C4 or TNT beside it. If it was tamped, place at the least two blocks
of C4 or TNT beside it. Do not move the misfire charge. The detonation of the
new charge should detonate the misfire charge.
ELECTRIC SYSTEM
To prepare an electric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. After finding a safe firing position and a place for the charge,
lay out the firing wire from the charge position to the firing position.
Before leaving the charge position, anchor the firing wire to something.
Always keep the firing device with you. Do not leave it at the firing
position.
STEP 2. Check the firing wire with the galvanometers or circuit taster
to make sure it does not have a short circuit or a break. This is best
done with one man at each end of the firing wire.
o
To check for a short, separate the two strands (the bare ends) of
the firing wire at the firing position. Have the other soldier do
the same thing with the other end of the wire at the charge
position. At the firing position, touch the bare ends of the two
strands to the galvanometer/circuit tester posts. The needle on
the galvanometers should not move, nor should the light on the
circuit tester come on. If the needle does not move or if the
light does not come on, the wire has a break--replace it.
If the wire has no short when tested, test it for a break. Have
the soldier at the charge position twist the bare ends of the
strands together. Then touch the two strands at the firing
position to the galvanometers/circuit tester posts. That should
cause a wide deflection of the galvanometer needle or cause the
circuit tester light to come on. If the galvanometers needle does
not move or if the light does not come on, the wire has a break-replace it.
STEP 3. At the firing position, check the blasting cap with a

galvanometers or circuit tester to make sure it does not have a short.
Remove the short circuit shunt and touch one cap lead wire using the
galvanometers, the needle should make a wide deflection. If it does, the
cap is good.
o
If the needle fails to move or only makes a slight deflection,

replace the cap.
When using the circuit tester, the light should come on when the
handle is squeezed. If it does not replace the cap.
STEP 4. Move to the charge position and, if the charge is a block of

TNT, clear its cap well if the charge is a block of C4 plastic
explosive, push a hole in it about the size of a blasting cap.
STEP 5. Position the charge. Then splice the lead wires of the cap to
the, firing wire (pigtail knot).
STEP 6. Insert the cap into the cap well of the TNT and secure it with
the priming adapter, or insert the cap into the hole made in the C4 and
mold the explosive around the cap.
STEP 7. Move back to the firing position and check the wire circuit with
the galvanometers or circuit tester (same technique as described
earlier).
If the circuit checked out and the blasting machine does not set off the
charge, there is a misfire.
If an untamped charge misfires, investigate at once. If the charge is tamped,
wait 30 minutes before investigating, then take these steps:
STEP 1. Check the firing wire connection to the blasting machine to be

sure that the contacts are good.
STEP 2. Make two or three more attempts to fire the charge.
STEP 3. Try to fire it again using another blasting machine.
STEP 4. Disconnect the firing wire from the blasting machine and shunt
(twist together) the ends of the wire.
STEP 5. Move to the charge position to investigate. Take the blasting

machine with you.
STEP 6. Check the entire circuit, including the firing wire, for breaks
and short circuits.
STEP 7. Make no attempt to remove the primer or the charge.
STEP 8. If the fault has not been found, place a new primed charge
beside the misfire charge.
STEP 9. Disconnect the old blasting cap wires from the firing wire and
shunt the ends of the blasting cap wires.
STEP 10. Attach the new blasting cap wires to the firing wire and fire
the new charge. This should also detonate the misfire charge.
12.6 DELAYS:
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.
12.6-1 Cigarette Delays:
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine
rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less
likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or
draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the
cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of
delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance
to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes
burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all
the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
cigarette ------------
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS:

Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can
usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be
work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch
would not have to be stepped up.
12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS:

Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England.
The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the
initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British
citizenry.
If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and
capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with
aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the
container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the
hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
_
_
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |_____________| |
| |
| |
| | sulfuric
| |
| |
| |
| | acid
| |
| |
| |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| |
(several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats
through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the
foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be
able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
acid.
Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips
down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate
will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the
potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some
potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this
mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permanganate in a similar way.
13.0 Projectiles:
13.1 Polish cannon:

Part 1: The Polish Cannon Concept
The polish cannon was invented for all of you who would love to have a
gun-type weopon or just something fun that shoots things. With about $1.50
worth of lighter fluid and materials around the home, you can make your very
own cannon.
Part 2: Building the Cannon

Materials:
1: 2 or 3 empty Cambells Chunky Soup cans with BOTH ends cut out (or a can of
the same exact size)
2: An empty coke can (or similar aluminum can)
3: Duct Tape
4: Tennis Balls
5: a Can Opener (like the ones used to open Hawaiian Punch or Hi-C cans)
Ok. Take your empty soup cans and make sure both ends are cut out of all of
them. 3 cans is best but 2 will do. To make sure you have the right size
cans, put a tennis ball in one and make sure it fits snugly but not too tight.
Place the cans end to end and tape them together making sure the ends of the
cans are exactly aligned. After taping, slide the tennis ball through to make
sure there are no spots where it gets caught.
Now take the empty coke can in your hand. Do not cut the top out of this.
Instead, take the can opener and make 3 holes. There should now be the
drinking hole and the 3 additional holes you made. Fit the front end of the
can into one end of the soup can tube. The top of the can should fit inside.
Now tape this on. Make a hole in the side of the coke can. Make the hole
about half the size of a penny (not too small though).
You have now made your cannon.
Part 3: Firing the cannon
Set the cannon up with the open soup-can end pointed out in to a field or at
the target. Then put a tennis ball in the end and push it all the way down.
It should stop at the coke can top. Now take your lighter fluid and sqirt
about 1/8 inch of liquid in to the coke can through the hole you made. Place
your thumb over the hole and shake the fluid. This will make a flammable gas.
After a good shaking, quickly move your thumb away and light the hole with a
lighter or match. Whoosh! The ball should launch.
Part 4: Problems and warnings
About 30% of my cannon shots fail. Here are some reasons:
1: not enough shaking
2: too little OR too MUCH lighter fluid
3: hole in side of can is too big
4: tennis ball is too tight
5: gas never lit because of a small hole
Warnings:
1: do not hold the cannon when firing (duh....) it has a lot of kick
2: be careful when lighting. On most failed attempts, instead of the
of heat and flames shooting the ball, it shoots out the firing hole.
3: Make sure the cannon is supported well in the back when firing.
rush
13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON:

A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only
difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick
to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.
If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can
be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a
pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.
A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.
Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade
blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of
tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person
is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by
pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
_________ _____________________________________________________
| |_______||_____________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| _____|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of
the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will
explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would
look like this:
___
/
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ------crater maker
|
|
/
| | | | ------tape
|_|_|
|
| --------fuse
13.3 Rocket launcher:

A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only
difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further
than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial
inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one
that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal
rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
__
/
\
|
|
| C
|
|M
|
|
|
|
|
\ _ /|
| |
|
| E
|
| N
|
| G
|
| I
|
| N
|
| E
|
|____ |
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be
ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before
the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.
Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon
will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.
13.4 potato guns:
CAUTION:
Potato guns can BLOW UP! If they blow up near you, it is VERY bad! Do
not use a potato gun that is damaged or weak. PVC pipe can only take so much
stress. Using too much fuel can cause the expansion chamber to BLOW UP. Use
your head. Dont be stupid. DONT shoot people or animals, because if you
dowhatever you shoot will probley die! BE CAREFUL!!!
Basic Potato Gun:

Introduction
All combustion potato guns are based on this design. I have began to
experiment with combustions guns.
I like combustion guns because they are easily to transport and they make a
loud bang (like a cannon) when they are fired.
Materials:
* 1 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch diameter schedule
40 PVC pipe
* 1 10 foot piece of 3 inch diameter schedule 40
PVC
* 1 3 inch threaded female coupling (also called a
cleanout trap)
* 1 3
inch
threaded
end cap
(also
called a
cleanout
cap)
* 1 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing
bushing
* 1 BBQ igniter.
* 1 PVC primer can.
* 1 PVC glue can.
If you dont already own a hacksaw or a drill you need to purchase each one to
make a potato gun.
Directions:
1. Cut a 13 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 3 inch in diameter pipe (This
piece will become the combustion chamber). Sit the rest of the 10 foot piece
aside.
2. Grab the 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing brushing and glue it to one side of
the 13 inch
pipe.
3. Glue the 3 inch threaded (only on one side) coupling to the other side of
the 13 inch pipe.
4. Cut a 36 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe (This piece
will be used as the barrel). Sit the rest of the pipe aside.
5. Glue the 36 inch piece to the other side of the reducing brushing. You
should now have a completed gun, except you need to mount the sparker.
6. Drill a hole in the end cap that is the correct size for the sparker. Put
some glue around the hole and on the inner edges. Shove the sparker in the
hole till the little plastic things click. Put some more glue around the
edges of the sparker to make it air tight.
7. Wait overnight until the glue has dried! Remember safety!
8. Make a ramrod from an old broom stick. Put the stick in the barrel and
stop when it get close to the bottom, then mark a line at the top of the
stick. So now when you load a potato in there, you know when to stop.
Shooting:
1. Put the potato in the end of the barrel
2. Unscrew the end cap and spray some Right Guard deodorant (or any other
fuel) down
the chamber for about 2 seconds.
3. Quickly screw on the end cap.
4. Shove the potato all the way to the end of the barrel
5. Brace yourself for the kick of the gun.
6. Then quickly push the igniter.
7. It should go boom!
Fuels to use:
Fuel Type:
Description
Rating * - ****
Hairspray
The most basic and commonly used fuel

for potato guns (although hair spray
doesnt work very well...). Just open
the chamber, spray for a few seconds,
screw on the cap, and hit the
igniter.
* *
Carburetor Cleaner
Burns fast, which is very good. Works

just like hairspray. Just open,
spray, close, and ignite. Leaves a
terrible stench, though.
* * * *
Propane
Good fuel! It's just hard to get the
* * *
right amount. The best mixture is 5%

to air. Also propane is heavier than
air.
Alcohol
Denatured alcohol appears to work

well as a propellant. Use a regular
hair spray bottle. There must be a
fine mist in order to ignite it. A
liquid will not cooperate.
* * *
Butane
Butane is a little less common, and

appears to be more powerful than
propane. I've seen it in the sporting
good section. Difficult to get "just
the right amount." You can easily put
in too much, or too little, and end
up not being able to ignite it.
* * *
Aqua Net plus a

little something
extra!
Take Aqua Net hairspray and spray it

into the chamber. Then drop some
rubbing alcohol into the chamber.
Then roll the chamber around 5 for 6
times. Lastly shoot.
* * *
Aerosol Right Guard
Works better than hairspray, WD-40

and Carburetor Cleaner. Just costs a
few dollars a can. Leave a nice
smell. The best feature of this fuel
is it doesn't leave any residue in
your gun.
* * * *
Different kinds ammo:
Ammo
Description
Rating * ****
Potatoes
Just cut a thick slice of a potato and

push it against the barrel, it will cut
it perfectly. Also makes a nice wadding
for shooting other things!
* * *
Smoke Bombs
Put the smoke bomb in the back of a

potato. Take the fuse and put gasoline on
it. Then push the potato down into the
gun. It a good idea to shorten the fuse
so the smoke starts quick.
* * *
Model Rocket
Engines
Take the fuse and soak it in gasoline. If

you can get it to work this has to be the
coolest thing your can shoot out of a
potato gun.
* * * *
Glow Sticks
Looks like military tracer rounds! Try

cutting off the end and shooting. Gently
drop them in the barrel after your potato
with the cut end off. Fire it at night
and watch the glowing cloud!
* * *
Spudrok's
A Spudrok's is a plastic kinetic rocket

usually shot out of a potato gun or
similar device using a reusable Plastic
Pressure Piston (wad). It's designed to
have a "glow stick" attached to the nose
and is best shot at night. Both the
Spudrok's and the WAD are reusable and
will last many repeated uses. For more
info check out Spudrok's Homepage.
* * * *
Water
Put in a spud and pour some water down

the barrel. Makes a huge cloud of water
Tips from other people:
Have you ever seen those laser pointers? They shoot a red laser beam
across rooms up to 300 yards. Well, I happen to have one, so after I built my
potato cannon I took the laser pointer and taped it to the barrel. Now I have
a laser sight to aim with! Of course, it isn't always accurate (on my cannon
the potato usually hits within a foot of the laser from 40 feet away. It might
be more accurate if I had steadier hands, but I don't), but it is fun.
One important thing to consider when you're making your potato cannon is
the barrel length. When I made my first cannon, it's barrel was 5' long (the
gun was 2"x4"). When I shot the gun, the potato kinda fell out of the end and
rolled 10 feet. I was in shock! I'd seen these things shoot over 200 yards
before! So I decided cut off some of the barrel, thinking I could at least
shoot it a few more feet. So, after cutting the barrel down to 3 feet, I gave
it another shot. The potato rocketed out of the barrel and exploded on my
backyard fence. I took it out to a big grass field and it shot about 200
yards. Compared to 10 feet of earlier! So if your potato cannon isn't
performing as well as you think it should, try cutting off some of the barrel.
It worked for me.
After a couple of weeks of working with hairspray I have decided that it
sucks. I'm going back to butane or carb fluid. Hairspray is really annoying
for a couple reasons: it gets the cannon really sticky, it's not as powerful,
and when using it there are a lot more misfires where the potato goes about 20
feet. This is because the hairspray either floods the ignitor or because not
enough gets in the chamber. What I did to fix this is run a plastic tube from
the propellent (hairspray, butane, etc) nozzle to the end of the cannon. I put
a valve on the end so that I can open the valve, spray the hairspray, close
the valve, and fire. It works well and is much easier than having to unscrew
the cap.
When I made my first potato gun it only went around 20 yards. Trying
over and over I found out that if you put the potato in at the top, put the
propelent in, then push the potato down with a broom. It compreses and adds
more air in with the propelent ,and it gives more of an blast. Instead of 20
yards it flew over 200 yards.
I have your basic spudgun but have found that there is an optimum barrel
length that differs per barrel size, projectile, and fuel used. Since the
potato is being forced out by the gases and pressure of the explosion in the
chamber, these gases must overcome a certain amount of friction against the
potato as its forced out the barrel. The optimum length barrel would
theoretically be one that utilizes all the enegy from the blast. Meaning that
there is a certain point when the energy is not enough to continue
acceleration through the entire barrel and the potato (or projectile) starts
to slow down. So you fellow spud blasters may want to experiment with this to
maximize the power of your spudzookas also.
Here is how to make to sparks in your firing chamber: Connect the ground
wire to one screw as usual, but connect two screws to the hot wire. This will
give you two sparks [see illustration 1].--
Other ammo that people have used:
Here is a list of projectile that I have tried or that visitors have proposed:
Spuds (of course). Basically, the spud is the ultimate projectile

because it is heavy and full of water which makes them slide better in
the barrel.
Cylindrical form ice cubes. It is hard (even impossible) to get

perfectly hermetic ice cylinders but an "almost hermetic" ice cube will
fly well because of it's weight and shape. I think it must REALLY hurt
if you where to be hit.
Wet toilet paper. This will not fly as well as spuds but can be used for
desperate shooters who don't have any potatoes.
Water. This is fun (and refreshing) when shot in the air. Shooting water
will cause an impressive back shot for some reason.
Limes. These are pretty good because they are aerodynamic and heavy
enough to go very far.
Use apples, melons and a large fry from McDonalds be sure to leave it in
the carton. Proposed by Nutlyman@aol.com
Try shooting corn on the cobb! It's impressive. Proposed by Element778@webtv.net
Use a walnut with the hull ,we shot 1 at least 950 to 1000 yds with a
little bit of aquanet these are exelent. Proposed by Jester3306@aol.com
Walnuts,golf balls,lit m-80s,tennis balls. Proposed by BowHuntjs@aol.com
Tape the end of a 12 gram CO2 carterage so that it fits good. stand far
away from target. (let the target be hard) it will blow up! make sure
you hide behind something. I knocked down a 100ft tree with it using a
gas potato gun . Proposed by Ragema6169@aol.com
Use a 2' 1/2" piece of wood dowel with a backer or wadding to fit your
barrel. With my pnumatic spud gun i put one through a 3/4" thick sheet
of plywood at 50 feet and it keept going. Proposed by
DucatiMan2001@aol.com
A great form of ammo is first a potato, then just trash and anything you
can find, it blows it everywhere, also, an arrow through your spud, then
it will stick into stuff and you can hunt with it! Proposed by
Dugasuttle@aol.com
Use eggs because, they are aerodynamic, have weight, and make a large
messe. Proposed by Sean23164@aol.com
Try puting some snow in after the potato.looks really cool. Proposed by
KDDGOW@aol.com
I have found that instant mashed pototoes work very well just mix them
thick and they are fun for the whole family add some food coloring and
you can make some new wave art on a bed sheet. Proposed by
mctsgw@ruralink.com
Try eggs soaked in vinegar, they will swell up, and fit the barrel very
snugly, and will stink up whatever you are shooting at! Proposed by
cloudracer1@cs.com
Try using water ballon full of paint put some oil on it and a rag be
hind it. It makes a big mess. From taz5696969@yahoo.com
Try using kiwis. Proposed by badcriner@aol.com
Shove a cloth down the barrel and then a lit smoke bomb. Proposed by
karma_81503@yahoo.com
Use pomegranates because when they hit a wall they stain. Proposed by
jdb999911@aol.com
I like to stick a bottle of shaving creme in the barrel (only use air
power). It explodes and makes a big mess! Proposed by Dmbowler1@aol.com
A bottle of mustard works good because when it hits it blows up and

makes a total mess !!!!!!!!!! Proposed by Ghett0Zach@aol.com
In a 2" barrel use a miniture vortex football. It is accurate and flies

really good!!! Proposed by JRH48080@aol.com
Get as many two piece plasitc easter eggs as possible. Open them and
fill both halfs with paint. Put some paper or plastic bags behind as a
wad to push it out. It will go like heck and puts a mark on the target
the size of a watermelon. by c. williams
A good idea is to cut a bit off the end of your barel. You can use this
to shape stuff, save getting your gun dirty etc. Also use it to freeze
ice. Kicks ass. Proposed by r.a.t.m@www.com
If you put a thin slice of spud in the gun and follow it with about 2-3
cups of flour with a paper towel wadding, it makes cool special effects.
(Try shooting it into fire). Proposed by ralverso@knox.net
Make a wad to shove down the barrel, then drop a lot of paintballs down
the barrel. Proposed by rwilson@freewwweb.com
Try glow-sticks, they look like tracer bullets.you can also retrieve
them. Proposed by japarker@gibralter.net
What I found was a good projectile was a Noni plant. It is a green fruit
that looks sorta like a potato. On impact, it makes a huge mess and
smells worse than rotten eggs soaked in vinegar. Unfortunatly, I think

you can only get this fruit in Hawaii. Proposed by Voice@hawaii.rr.com
The small plastic "sunny delight" bottles (full or course) fit perfectly
into the 2"barrel. Proposed by Lawenforcer105@aol.com
I find using frozen butter to work really well in air powered guns. It
also leaves a nice mark on whatever it hits. It hits hard, and flies
straight. Proposed by tomb@teleport.com
Use a film cannester and fill full of paint. Close the lid and drop it
in the gun. Proposed by evalen@unidial.com
What I've found to work really good is them small cans of tomato paste.
You can also use cans of corn or stewed tomatoes or any other caned
vegetable that will fit in the barrel of your gun. Proposed by
Grizzle41285@aol.com
You can get hackie sacks at the dollar store and in a 2" barrel they fly
really good. Proposed by TUNAFISHsm@aol.com
I find that neon light bulbs work well (the long skinny kind they have
in schools) the explode with a loud boom on inpact. They fit nicely in a
1 inch pipe. Proposed by Gopedguy1115@aol.com
Stick sparklers in the end of a spud and watch them fly at night.
Proposed by Tjoeh2003@aol.com
Spudrok's rockets. Check out his web site for more details. It's worth
it!
Try using an onion, and make the end of your barrel like a knife so it
shaves it while it goes down, makes it air tight, which results in more
compression longer distance. Proposed by Pete
Take BBs, ball bearings, screws, nails, bolts, rocks, or any other
small hard things and push a bunch of them in the end of a potato before
loading it. The only thing is, that sharp metal things may do bad
things to the barrel.
13.5 MODEL ROCKETS:

Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.
They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,
expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used
constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no
recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military
rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes,
a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12
lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger
rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket
engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most
model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help
explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |c|
casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * *| . . . . .|l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject
|a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |y|
/________|____________________|________|_________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of
hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the
engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black
powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke,
usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the
rocket will be seen
when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it
ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is
finelypowdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.
The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model
rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds. The final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a 3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The
mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
13.6 Home-brew blast cannon:
Materials needed:
1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 inches in diameter.

1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter.
1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe.
5 feet of bellwire.
1 SPST rocker switch.
16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery.
15v relay (get this at Radio Shack).
Electrical Tape.
One free afternoon.
Procedure:
Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends.
Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small
pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw
together easily.
Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it
to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/-----!lighter!!<---metal lever!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the
lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you
wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch.
Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the
bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in
the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily,
and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the
smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go,
and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big
'THUD!'
Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

1--------------v/
2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the
relay
3
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4),
and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from
the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get
the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you
should see some tiny little sparks.
Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the
back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon
barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off
by flipping the switch.
Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now
ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits
'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on
your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly
some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on
tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be
able to put a frozen orange through a piece of plywood at 25 feet.
14.0 The End:

I would like to credit and thank the many web sites and sources of the
information in this application: Roguesci.org, Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology, Modern Pyrotechnics and all the other people and publications
that I did not mention; as many scientific, pyrotechnic, and other websites
were my sources. Go to some of the link in this text, or go to the extras
file in this folder, for more information on chemicals and explosives.
(top)
2003
All rights reserved (by me)

Unknown Author
P.O. Box 0000. Not Here, Earth
Your Info.
Unregistered Underground Distribution Ring
(000)-000-0001

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Compositions - The Abbreviated Version

Black powder - see blackpowder2.html

RPH (BP) is 'Rocket Propellant Hotter' which is 68 Potassium Nitrate, 17 Skylighter

3/4" (One pound) Red Mag Rocket on Takeoff

Source: Doc Barr/Dave Stoddard/John Steinberg (Skylighter newsletter)

Green Magnalium Rocket

Yellow Magnalium Rocket

1 lb rocket formula from Andy H. on rec.pyro

Sourball XY (sugar candy fuel). Author: Bob Forward

Nitrocellulose Lacquer Substitutes.

4T of each prime for a 5.25 oz batch

Laquer Red (Eric

Magnalium 200 mesh

Above reds are Bleser #1 with PVC

Dampen with water and cut or pump

30.3 potassium Nitrate

Source: Takeo Shimizu

Magnalium, granular, 30-60 mesh 10

Bleser AP Blue #20

Source: I 'discovered' it in isolation while experimenting with colder star compositions

Source (and comments from the source): Skylighter article on blues:

Blue Star #4 (recommended - CAUTION - THIS IS A CHLORATE STAR - DO

Potassium Chlorate ... 66.560.8

Cupric Oxide ..............

Lights easily, burns fast, good blue color.

John Reilly's Blue (revisited)

Chinese Blue (works best in small stars. Fades as you go bigger)

Purple (Steve Majdali)

Purple Pyro Science

Purple Star (John Reilly)

Source: Composition from Shimizu

White #1 (source: E. Hunkins)

White Antimony (Davis)

Chinese Strobe Stars (from a post by John Reilly on Passfire)

This is what we used for white in red-white-blue-report 3-break shells at the

Orange (Joel Baechle)

Special Effects Star:

Click on picture to see the movie

Name: Flash Core

Antimony Trisulfide, Chinese Needle 9

Excellent, cheap white glitter with medium sized flashes.

Swisher Glitter (can be cut)

the following are the ratios:

Eric's Silver Flitter

Silver Flitter (PGI)

INDY COLORS (from the Internet - not tried)

BLUE (KP 66, CuO 14, Par 5, Saran 5, RG 10, Dex 5)

Hot Igniter Prime:

Frompage 187 of FAST

Gary Smith Parlon Stars(withpermission)

Above image courtesy of Lee C. Bussy. All formulas by Gary Smith.

(50/50 -200 mesh

Wood meal, -70

Japanese NC Star Patent (posted by Tom S. on Passfire)

Glusatz - long time delay mix (approximately 30 seconds per inch??)

Dark lance composition (Dead Lance)

Source: Mike Swisher on rec.pyrotechnics and attributed to Hardt

Cupric Oxide (black)

Blue Fountain (from wreck.pyro)

Dragon's Eggs from rec.pyro (Lloyd Sponenburgh Method)

"Safe" flash powder

Morning Glory Compositions