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wine

On the
la Romane-Conti, Domaine Leroy, Domaine Jean
Grivot, Emmanuel Rouget, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy is made from pinot noir for
Grapevine
Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Armand
Rousseau is a good idea as is buying from repu-
table negociants such as Louis Jadot, Bouchard
reds and chardonnay for whites
Pere & Fils and Joseph Drouhin who blend wines
life from small parcels. Grand crus command steep
prices, even in poor years, but look for village-
level wines from top producers at quite reason- pleasure. Pure and admirably deep in flavour, it Buying
able prices. Following are a few domains worthy shows a lot of breeding for the money.
of note and seeking out. l Domaine Rapet, Aloxe Corton 2005: A marvel-
Burgendy
In Thailand, being able to find a
ously expressive wine with a remarkable scent of wide range of quality reputable
Whites fresh red raspberries, this is perhaps one of the burgundy is not easy. However,
l Domaine Meo Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes most vocal Aloxe Corton Ive ever tasted. It will there are a few very good import-
Cotes de Nuits, Clos Saint Philibert 2004: need time to pick up aromatic complexities, but ers who distribute it in Bangkok,
Sophisticated character despite an origin in a the fruit component is so pure and sweet and such as Terroir Wines SA, which
lower appellation, this wine shows a subtle fruit intense that it is already delicious. Give this wine represents some high-quality
domaines.
profile with excellent balance between ripeness a bit of cellar time.
and acidity. Modest oak influence and pleasant l Domaine Philippe Naddef, Fixin 2005: This
minerality lend complexity to the finish. winemaker makes excellent wines from Gevrey,
l Domaine Rapet, Pernand Vergelesses 1er but his Fixin can also be excellent. This shows
Cru, En Caradeux 2004: This is an impressively impressive intensity and power, with serious
intricate wine, showing lots of nuances on a solid density to the dark fruit notes and lots of fine-
foundation of fruit recalling peaches and pears. grained tannin.
l Domaine Michelot, Meursault 1er Cru, l Domaine Bouvier, Gevrey Chambertin Les
Genevrires 2005: A generous, rich wine in keep- Jeunes Rois 2005: This gorgeous wine has a win- below from
ing with Meursaults reputation, this is neverthe- ning combination of soft, fresh, open fruit aromas left
less complex as well, with lovely accent notes of and exotic, earthy elements. The fruit is sweet Burgundy is
minerals, vanilla and toast. Already delicious, this and expressive, and the earthy note is clean to the expensive in price
and inconsistent
will only get better over the next five years. palate. The oak integration is subtle but adds to in quality; the
l Domaine Paul Pernot, Bienvenues Batart the balance. regions grapes
Montrachet Grand Cru 2004: An undeniably l Domaine Rene Leclerc, Gevrey Chambertin struggle to ripen
great wine, this shows the large leap in quality 1er Cru, Combes aux Moines 2005: This Gevrey in their cool

A Case Of and
that can justify the leap in price from premier vineyard is usually associated with masculine northern climate;
a winemaker
to grand cru white burgundy. Rich and con- wines based on heavier black fruit notes, but checks a batch of
centrated, but also lively, it blends power with this wine is a rather feminine offering based on burgundy
intricacy in the form of spice, toast, vanilla and charming notes of red raspberries and cherries. opposite from

For Burgendy
mineral notes along with a nutty character, and Soft, fine-grained tannins support its invitingly top
somehow manages to present all of this sensory delicate flavours. Workers sort
prized burgundy
information in a package that seems integrated, l Domaine Lamarche, Echezeaux Grand Cru
grapes;
symmetrical and harmonious. 2005: Notes from new oak barrels dominate the researching
initial impression, but a closer look shows lots of Burgundys
Yes, its expensive, and yes, its not always easy to find Reds concentrated fruit. Its density and slightly dry, winemakers
l Domaine Lafouge, Auxey Duresses 1er Cru, smoky character hide the fruit at first blush, but lessens the risk of
a dependably consistent source. But Dominic Rivard La Chapelle 2005: Given the high prices that the continued scrutiny reveals an impressive tender- buying an
expensive, but
advocates that effort spent finding and savouring good exceptional 2005 vintage burgundies command ness and delicacy that produces a terrific balance disappointing
burgundy delivers sublime rewards finding such a bargain within this vintage is a when aged for several years. bottle

A
h, burgundy! this attempt to identify parcels of specific geogra-
self-designated wine phy or terroir. Burgundy has a higher number

images: Central Food hall at Central world, G Four


capital of the world with of appellations dorigine contrle (AOCs) than
its fairytale vineyards any other French region, and is often seen as the
and chateaus has been most terroir-conscious of them all. What we call
the subject of countless burgundy is typically only made from pinot noir
poems, songs and dreams for the reds and chardonnay for the whites. Both
of wine lovers and is considered the mecca of the varieties struggle to reach ripeness in this cooler
wine world by some. It produces, arguably, the northern climate, which can lead to an incredible
most consistently expensive wine available, but variance of vintage character from year to year
its also one of the least consistent wines in terms as well as a range of quality among the regions
of quality. many vineyards.
Why such a small area that basically only Doing a bit of research on Burgundys repu-
makes two types of wine can be so complex is table winemakers can lessen the risk of buying
deeply rooted in the history of the region. Many this coveted and pricey wine. Seeking wines from
centuries ago monks mapped the region in an the better-known producers such as Domaine de

thailand tatler 82 may 2010 thailand tatler 83 may 2010