Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
TRUTH IN TR AVEL
THE
FOOD ISSUE
ISS
SSUE
UE
The chefs, restaurants,
and meals that are changing
the way we travel
94
104
114
116
124
Catskills
Collective
Supertaster
Magic Kingdom
Rhapsody in
a Bowl
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
TALK TO US
WORD OF MOUTH
26
Micro-Neighborhood A oneblock-long street is Copenhagens
next dining destination.
34
Eat Here Now Ludo Lefebvres Parisian-style
bistro serves up hearty French classics and masterful
cocktailsin a Los Angeles strip mall, no less.
THE COVER
Late afternoon in Italy,
photographed by
Gentl & Hyers. Styling
by Amy Wilson.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
36
Well-Traveled Where the French
Laundrys Laura Cunningham
travels for inspiration.
40
Stay Here Now The new
La Rserve hotel takes its cues
from La Belle poque Paris.
42
In Transit Reasons to look forward
to your layover, including tortas
at OHare and caviar at Heathrow.
30
The Upgrade Watches to
keep you in one time zone while
youre dreaming of the next.
FIRST ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTIN PARR/MAGNUM PHOTOS; COURTESY HOTEL URSO. SECOND ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY ULF SVANE; MATT HRANEK; DEBORAH JONES/COURTESY THE FRENCH LAUNDRY.
THIRD ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY GENTL & HYERS (COVER); ARAN GOYOAGA; COURTESY LA RSERVE PARIS HOTEL, SPA AND APARTMENTS. BOTTOM ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUIS MOSES/CORBIS; ADRIAN GAUT
Contents
Contents
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82
Next Up Alexander Maksik
goes back home to Idaho and
falls hard for Boise.
Download our
digital edition for
interactive features and
bonus content at
cntraveler.com/apps.
56
Pilgrimage Two bon vivant
New York chefs take us on their
annual Sicilian food odyssey.
62
Anatomy of a Hotel From the Chateau Marmont to
his global empire of Standards, Andr Balazs keeps even himself
guessing as he creates one of-the-moment hotel after another.
LEAVE IT
TO THE
OMBUDSMAN
#globalcandy
This month were sharing our
favorite candy from around the
world @cntraveler.
72
Hotels We Love Three gourmet destinations in Scotland,
Sweden, and Italy (above) that are as much about eating as
they are about getting a good nights sleep.
129
Travel Intel Apps to add to your travel arsenal;
what to drink in Lima (at any time of day); an unlimited ski pass
for Vail; and why you should be booking a trip to China now.
10
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
134
Souvenir Whether its the old-world filigree typeface
or the evocation of a time and place, theres a reason we always
have the urge to stuff the hotel coaster into our pocket.
FIRST ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT HRANEK; GRANT CORNETT. SECOND ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT HRANEK; COURTESY THE STANDARD. THIRD
ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY CANNELL & WESTERHOFF; MATT ARMENDARIZ. BOTTOM ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI; GENTL & HYERS
DIGITAL EDITION
Martin Parrs photograph of a juicy red grapefruit on a table in his native United
Kingdom may appear to be yet another shot-from-above food portrait on Instagram, but in
fact it was taken before the technology made our obsession with capturing and
sharing the dish in front of us as much a fact of life as eating itself. A prolic documentary
photographer and collector, Parr has spent years creating images of food (among
other subjects) in his blunt, close-up (and deliberately unromantic) signature style, using
a macro lens and a ring ash. While Parr considers the ubiquity of food photography
on social media a trend like the sele, this more appetizing image reminds us of the visceral
power of a good food photograph: Though a picture of a meal can never fully replicate
the experience of enjoying itthe smells, the tastes, the conversationit can be a powerful
evocation of the small, wondrous moments we encounter when we travel,
a direct connection to the memories only a special meal can create. Kate Cunningham
12
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
MAGNUM PHOTOS
Abergavenny, Wales
Editors Letter
Check out
the rest of
my October
inspiration
board on
pinterest.com/
cntraveler.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Editors Itinerary
You told us you wanted beaches, long-haul train rides, and wine-tasting in France.
Weve narrowed the universe into four trips, from the spontaneous to the once-in-a-lifetime.
I NEED A
VACATION NOW
IM JUST THINKING
ABOUT MY NEXT TRIP
Beach or
mountains?
Hopefully not.
I just want a few
nights away.
I want lots of
nature.
Im a city
slicker.
Does a Saint-milion
excite you?
PRIVATE
HAWAIIAN ISLAND
You can
have both.
Go by train.
CANADA BY RAIL
Or how about a
chauffeur?
BORDEAUX
WINE-TASTING
CHILE AND
EASTER ISLAND
The rst ten to book each trip will receive a ten percent discount. For more on these trips, visit editorsitinerary.cntraveler.com.
16
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
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30
Time to travel:
the watches you need now.
34
Splendor in the strip mall: L.A.s
reinvented bistro.
40
Jewel box: Pariss latest
boutique hotel.
word
of
Fresh-baked
croissants
at Copenhagens
Meyers Bageri.
mouth
Photograph by Ulf Svane
O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4 / C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R
25
Micro-Neighborhood
Restaurants,
shops, and bakeries
are plentiful on
Copenhagens oneblock-long
Jgersborggade.
Jgersborggade
Everything that makes Copenhagen a culinary hotbedrock-star chefs, foraging as art
can be found on this cobblestoned street in the citys lively Nrrebro neighborhood.
THESE DAYS, any foodie knows that Copenhagen has joined
New York, Tokyo, and San Francisco as one of the culinary
capitals of the world. Thats largely thanks to Ren Redzepis groundbreaking restaurant, Noma, which since its
opening in 2003 has been converting diners to the wonders
of foraged reindeer mossas well as producing the next
generation of inventive chefs, many of whom now helm
their own kitchens. One of Nomas most acclaimed alums
26
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Micro-Neighborhood
2 Dining alfresco
on Jgersborggade.
REL
Being an immigrant forced me
to be inventive instead of relying
on the elements of cooking I
already knew, says the SicilianNorwegian Puglisi of his casual
42-seat, Michelin-starred restaurant. Three prix fixe menus are
on offer here: Omnivore, Herbivore, and, for those with a
huge appetite, Lets-Try-It-All
Ivore. There are usually only
two waiters, so the chefs double
as servers, and diners are responsible for resetting their own silverware between courses (extra
cutlery is stored in a drawer
in the custom-designed wooden
table). The foodcreative but
accessible dishes like sous vide
chicken with bottarga and sweet
cornis so good, you wouldnt
mind washing the plates as well.
Puglisis long-awaited cookbook,
A Book of Ideas, hits shelves
this month, and his new pizzeria
and bakery will open on nearby
Guldbergsgade by years end
(No. 41; 45-3696-6609; restaurant
-relae.dk; prix fixes from $81).
MANFREDS
Puglisis caf and wine bar is right
across the street from Rel, and
its not uncommon to see him and
his cooks carting whole sides of
28
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Blancpain Villeret Demi-Fuseau Horaire 8 Jours (blancpain.com; $44,400); TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 8 GMT
(shop.tagheuer.com; $4,000); Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph (212-2818-1240; $57,300); Baume & Mercier Clifton
GMT (baume-et-mercier.com; $3,350); Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT (jaquet-droz.com; $26,400). Matt Hranek
30
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
The Upgrade
E AT THI S S TR E E T
Southeast
Division
When Andy Ricker
opened Pok Pok on
Portland, Oregons
Southeast Division
Street in 2005, little
did he know he was
setting the stage
for the citys liveliest
restaurant row. Here
are our favorite new
kids on the block:
TR AVE L TOOL
Blue Is the
New Black
Book
One hundred and fifty
Paris insiderschefs,
authors, artists, and
otherscontributed
their picks of the
best sights, restaurants, shops, and
bars to the latest City
Secrets guidebook.
The tips are practical
(for the perfect onemile jog, loop around
the perimeter of
the Tuileries) and
personal: Legendary
designer Azzedine
Alaa reveals his
favorite bookstore
(Les Cahiers de Colette, in the Marais),
and three-Michelinstarred chef Alain
Passard raves about
the Boulangerie
Stphane Henry on
the Canal St-Martin.
H OT PRO PE R T Y
season is ebbing,
the weathers still
mild, and if it rains,
you can duck into
the stunning Frank
Gehrydesigned
Fondation Louis
Vuitton (opens Oct.
27) and catch the
Centre Pompidous
Gehry retrospective
(opens Oct. 8).
Royal Madrid
Spain has been a little glum of late, but
there are nally signs of a brighter economic future. In Madrid, hotelier Pablo
Carrington just added the Hotel Urso to
his stable of exceptional Spanish properties (Cap Rocat on Mallorca, Hotel
Viura in lava, Torralbenc on Menorca).
U P YOU R G AM E
Fall Finds
After a summer of
Birkenstocks and caftans,
were excited for falls
return to polished,
grown-up accessories
in the seasons signature
huesburgundy and
deep blue.
32
+
All you need for a
bright, brisk fall day?
A flattering pair
of Gucci sunglasses
with a colorful frame
(available at Solstice
stores; $295).
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
+
This burnished oxblood leather convertible handbag/clutch
by Salvatore Ferragamo is perfectly
autumnal (ferragamo
.com; $2,450).
Bollywood Theater
Chez Panisse alum
Troy MacLarty has
done for Indian street
food what Ricker did
for Thai. Try the bhel
puri (puffed rice with
veggies, peanuts,
and tamarind chutney). bollywood
theaterpdx.com
Pizza Maria In a
city of superlative
wood-fired pizza, the
charred Neapolitan
pies here are exceptional. Baker Sean
Coyne perfected his
craft at Manhattans
Sullivan Street Bakery
and Per Se, where he
made pizzas for staff.
pizzamariapdx.com
Roe Reserve a spot
at this restaurant,
hidden in the recesses of the larger
restaurant Block &
Tackle, for a sevencourse tasting menu
of modernist seafood
including poached
lobster with grapefruit custard and tobiko over shaved foie
gras. roe-pdx.com
Hannah Wallace
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY GORMAN STUDIO; COURTESY HOTEL URSO;
COURTESY EDDIE BORGO; COURTESY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO; GORMAN STUDIO
Lefebvre offers
a modern take
on traditional
French food, with
lots of strong
cocktails.
Only in L.A.
The L.A. strip mall, like the city itself, has become a blank canvas for reinvention.
Chef-owner Ludo Lefebvres recent transformation of a Thai
takeout joint into a classic French bistro leaves us saying merci beaucoup.
YOU CAN credit the existence of Petit
Trois, Ludo Lefebvres new French restaurant in Hollywood, to Don Draper
as much as to St-Germain-des-Prss
Brasserie Lipp. When I first moved
to Los Angeles in 1996, I saw that
Americans liked to drink cocktails all
through dinner, says French-born
Lefebvre. Watching Mad Men, I realized they always dined that way.
Cocktails and the hearty dishes Lefebvre grew up with are the foundation of this restaurant. The location in
a nondescript strip mall is pure L.A.
The interior has been transformed into
34
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
a textbook version of a Parisian neighborhood bistro, complete with checkerboard floor, marble counters, and
copper pots hanging over a tiny open
kitchen (Trois Mec, which Le febvre
co-owns with Jon Shook and Vinny
Dotolo, is next door). Here you can sip a
bracing and aromatic Mauresque cocktail made with pastis and pear brandy,
while choosing from one of ve rustic
but perfectly executed disheseach reinterpreted just enough to delight even
the most jaded Francophile. Chicken
legs are cooked in duck fat, fried, and
then sauced with butter in which
Well-Traveled
Laura Cunningham
When shes not at the legendary French Laundry in Napa Valley,
chef Thomas Kellers partner in business and life is traveling the world in search
of inspiration, from amazing meals to graceful amenities.
at La Bastide de Moustiers in
Provence, and the chicken
soup at the George V in Paris.
Tried-and-true jet lag
cure: New Metabolisms
protein shake.
Notable hotel room luxuries:
Im embarrassed I havent
been to: New Orleans.
I hate to admit it, but I have
no desire to go to: Bangkok.
Next up on my must-go list:
TR AVE L WI S D OM
D R I N K H E R E N OW
Modern
Nomad
We asked Julia
ChaplinNew Yorker,
author (her latest
book is Gypset Living),
and motherhow she
travels in style.
Always in your suitcase? A sarong from
Nairobi that I use as
a bathrobe, beach
blanket, and cover-up.
And a tribal necklace,
which pairs amazingly
well with designer
dresses. Theyre also
great conversation
starters. I have one
from the Masai Mara
made of cow vertebrae and another
from Hawaii made
of boars horn.
Best trip? Mongolia
in July, when the
weathers mild and the
Naadam festival (a
mini Olympics) is held.
Biggest near miss?
Almost departing
on a plane for La
Paz, Bolivia, instead
of La Paz, Mexico.
Advice for traveling
with kids? Get
them involved. Before
we leave, I show
my daughter on
a map where were
going and how
were getting there.
Favorite beach?
Agua Blanca on Ibiza.
R E D UX
Zegna Oasis
Shopping abroad
score? A goat hair
lined coat from
Mongolia. A family
of five brought it over
to my camp on a
motorcycletheyd
had it for decades.
Ondine Cohane
38
A Zegna suit is shorthand for a certain kind of luxuryunderstated, beautiful, and above all Italian.
The same can be said of the Oasi Zegna, the familys
39-square-mile eco-reserve in the foothills of the
Italian Alps, near Trivero, where Ermenegildo Zegna founded his woolen mill in 1910. Now, skiers and
hikers can again stay on the reserve in the beautifully
renovated Albergo Bucaneve, a 22-room hotel built
in 1963 by Italian architect Luigi Vietti. Meticulously
restored to its original chic-but-rustic simplicity using local timber and, of course, Zegna wool, the hotel
is an ode to the regions traditions and avors. On the
menu at the antler-adorned dining room is typical
Piedmontese food: baked polenta, porcini-studded
carnaroli risotto, and a rich, chocolaty bonet dessert
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
made with amaretti biscuits. Unlike the earthy extravagance of the food, the hotel is refreshingly spare,
a perfect place in which to contemplate the majesty
of the rolling hills and the meadows blooming with
wildflowers and rhododendrons (39-015-744-184;
bucaneve.eu; doubles from $107).
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLISON WEBBER (3); MATT HRANEK (2); JULIEN CAPMEIL/COURTESY ASSOULINE
French Impression
Designer Jacques
Garcia decorated
La Rserves 40
rooms and suites with
antique furniture
and objets dart.
40
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
In Transit
Fast-food chains and anonymous food courts may still dominate many airports. But
increasingly you dont have to settle for mediocre food when youre between ights. We asked
our network of trusted travelers (with very discriminating palates) what restaurants and
bars theyve discovered on the way to the gate. Their go-to dishesfrom roast duck noodles
to short rib tortas and soft-shell crabswill leave you craving a layover.
Boston Logan
San Francisco
Jamie Bissonnette,
chef, Coppa and Toro
in Boston; Toro in N.Y.C.
42
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Im totally addicted
to Ebisu. I always get
the same thing: edamame, shrimp tempura,
udon, and a very cold
Asahi. International
Terminal, Main Hall
North Food Court,
near Boarding Area G
Rainy Chan, general
manager, The Peninsula
Hong Kong
In Transit
DOMESTIC
INTERNATIONAL
Hartseld-Jackson
(Atlanta)
Nashville
Miami
McCarran
(Las Vegas)
Dulles,
Washington, D.C.
London Heathrow
When I visit my
restaurant in London,
I go to Gordon Ramsays
Plane Food and order
the butter chicken
curry with fried chickpea
rice. Terminal 5
My go-to before a
long trip is a slice of
pepperoni pizza from
Vegas staple Metro
Pizza. West D Gates
Jon Gray, vice president/
general manager, Linq,
Las Vegas
General Mitchell
(Milwaukee)
44
Go to Matsutake
Sushi for the deepfried soft-shell crab.
Concourse A
Reem Acra,
fashion designer
I have my vaca
frita and espresso
at the counter at
La Carreta. Terminal
D West, Gate D37
Singapore Changi
Santos Dumont
(Rio) and
Congonhas (So
Paulo)
Jesse Schenker,
chef/owner, The Gander
and Recette in N.Y.C.
Bisoux is an excellent
Provenale-inspired
bistro. Order the
poached chicken salad
with ratatouille, hardboiled eggs, and pesto.
Terminal D, Gates 34
Marc Murphy
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
An Americana burger
a single patty topped
with American cheese
at Custom Burgers by
Pat LaFrieda.
Terminal D, Food Court
Richard Blais
Brenda Valansi
In Transit
INTERNATIONAL
Hong Kong
Narita (Tokyo)
Dominique Ansel,
owner, Dominique Ansel
Bakery in N.Y.C.
Dubai
The Ad Coffee
caf has the best syrupy Vietnamese
coffee and cappuccino
in the country.
Domestic Terminal
Antonio Sersale,
owner/director, Le
Sirenuse, Positano, Italy
THE WINNER
46
Fiumicino (Rome)
A classic porchetta
roll from Colosseum.
Its deboned rotisserie
pork with crispy crackling and a wonderful
herbed stuffing inside
fresh-baked bread.
Terminal 1 Food Court
Lauren Yates, founder,
Ponytailjournal.com
Steven Alan,
fashion designer
Suvarnabhumi (Bangkok)
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
62
Andr Balazss ever-expanding
empire of hip hotels.
72
Destination dinner: hotels
where food comes first.
82
The best little town
in the West.
where
what
A sixth-century
B.C. Grecian
temple in
Selinunte, Italy.
how
Photograph by Matt Hranek
O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4 / C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R
55
Pilgrimage
Crates of
Nocellara del
Belice olives
stacked in an
old VW.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
The Franks Sicily trips always begin in mid-October and start in the
same place: with a trip to Partanna,
in the heart of the agriculturally rich
Trapani province, to visit their olive oil
producer, Tommaso Asaro. Here they
sample the olio nuovothe rst batch
of cold-pressed olives. Electric green
in color with a fresh, chlorophyll-rich
avor, the olive oil is a signature of the
Franks restaurants and the foundation of their eating tour.
Asaros olive oil is superlative for
Photographs by Matt Hranek
Pilgrimage
1 Plates of antipasti
at Baffos in Marinella
di Selinunte.
2 Frank Castronovo,
left, and Frank
Falcinelli.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
3 The Grecian
ruins of Selinunte
in Trapani.
4 Crossroads on
the way to Partanna
from Selinunte.
Autumn
Chestnuts
(castagne), olives
(olive), prickly pears
(fichi dindia), wild
game (selvaggina
with hunting season
running from
September through
January).
Winter
Cardoons (carduni),
grapes (uve),
mandarin oranges
(mandarini), oranges
(arance), sea urchins
(riccio di mare
from mid-November
through April).
Pilgrimage
1 Fishing boats
off the coast
of Castelvetrano.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
2 Asaro, Falcinelli,
and Castronovo in
their olive grove.
4 Frutti di
mare ready to
be cooked.
Anatomy of a Hotel
The Alchemist
Call him a ringleader, call him a real estate magnate, call him a restaurateur
just dont call him a hotelier. How Andr Balazs is taking
his empire of buzz into unexpected new territory. By Lindsay Talbot
WHEN ANDR BALAZS was 22 years old,
he checked himself into the Bowery Mission, a homeless shelter on Manhattans
Lower East Side. Though the redbrick
buildings half-timbered, neo-Tudor
facade was designed to look as inviting
Balazs in
the garden at
New Yorks
Standard East
Village hotel.
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Anatomy of a Hotel
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Mary Pickford
The Eagles
Hotel California
Billy Wilders
Sunset Boulevard
Chateau Marmont
Studio 54
AstroTurf
Barbarella
The Standard
Hollywood
Baden-Baden
Morris Lapidus
The Standard
Spa, Miami Beach
Hofbruhaus
Le Corbusier
Weegee
The Standard
High Line
FIRST ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALAMY (2); TIM STREET-PORTER/BEATEWORKS/CORBIS. SECOND ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALAMY (3); TODD EBERLE/COURTESY THE STANDARD. THIRD ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY DOROTHEA
SCHMID/LAIF/REDUX; ALAMY; ISTOCKPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY THE STANDARD. FOURTH ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES; CHRIS MOSIER/COURTESY THE STANDARD
66
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Anatomy of a Hotel
Hotels We Love
Table to Bed
These days, we romanticize the European country stay as
much for the charm of vintage oral wallpaper and
ironed linens as we do for the unforgettable meal. Here are
three properties that get both just right.
DON ALFONSO
1890
SantAgata sui Due Golfi, Italy
Distance from Naples 37 miles
For owner Alfonso Iaccarino,
Don Alfonso 1890a rosecolored eight-room former villa
on Italys Sorrentine Peninsula,
just a few miles from Positano
and Amalfiis a family affair.
The third-generation hotelier,
who runs the property with his
wife, Livia, and their two sons,
is also the Michelin-starred chef
at the hotels restaurant. Every
bit of produce on Don Alfonsos
Mediterranean menu comes
from his nearby 17-acre organic
farm, where olive and lemon
trees grow alongside the vegetables and herbs that inform the
seafood-focused menu. (Guests
can also try their hand at cooking
with the homegrown ingredients.) Book one of the cheerful
roomsall in shades of the
buildings signature pinkand
youll be right in the center of
one of Italys most picturesque
coastal regions. Calder Quinn
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
Hotels We Love
FVIKEN
Jrpen, Sweden
Distance from
Stockholm 375 miles
The meteoric rise of New Nordic
cuisine has inspired a wave of
epicurean pilgrimages to Copenhagen and Stockholm, but the
most remarkable Scandinavian
culinary experience may be on
a remote 22,000-acre farm
hundreds of miles north of the
Swedish capital. It is from this
forested landscape, populated
with chickens, goats, and lambs,
and the surrounding vegetation
that chef Magnus Nilsson
sources and creates all of his
wildly unusualthough deceptively simpledishes. In summer, as part of Fvikens highly
seasonal 20-course tasting
menu, a typical dish might include poached trout topped with
a scattering of just-picked edible
wildflowers, whereas roasted
bone marrow (Nilsson saws the
bone open in front of you before
scooping out the goods) with
raw diced moose heart and sage
salt is a signature winter offering.
And when youre ready for bed,
its just a few steps to one of
the five rooms in the 1745 farmhouse, where you can sleep off
the grilled quail poached in
mead before starting again in
the morning with a full breakfast
of porridge with cloudberry
compote and black currant juice.
John Wogan
Fviken
Fviken 216, Jrpen; 46-647-40177; faviken.com; tasting
menu, $255; doubles, $364.
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For additional images and an indepth look at still more foodcentric hotels, download our digital
edition or visit cntraveler.com.
THREE CHIMNEYS
Isle of Skye, Scotland
Distance from
Glasgow 232 miles
The six-hour drive from Glasgow
to Colboston the rugged, verdant northern shore of Scotlands
Isle of Skyemay seem daunting, but anyone whos visited
Three Chimneys knows its well
worth the effort for chef Michael
Smiths take on traditional Scottish cuisine. We have a wonderful, abundant larder right on
our doorstep, says Smith, who
gets his juicy langoustines, scallops, and oysters straight from
fishing boats docked near his
nineteenth-century farmhouse.
The seafood stars in dishes like
Hotels We Love
Three Chimneys
Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye;
44-1470-511258; threechimneys
.co.uk; prix fixe, $100; doubles
from $576.
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Next Up
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Next Up
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
STAY
Hotel 43
981 W. Grove St.;
208-342-4622;
hotel43.com;
doubles from $159.
EAT
Bleubird
224 N. 10th St.;
208-345-1055;
bleubirdboise.com;
entres from $5.
Janjou Ptisserie
1754 W. State St.;
208-297-5853;
janjou.com.
Juniper
211 N. 8th St.;
208-342-1142;
juniperon8th.com;
entres from $9.
SHOP
Boise Co-op Wine
Shop
915 N. 8th St.;
208-472-4519;
boise.coop/
wineshop.
Rediscovered Books
180 N. 8th St.;
208-376-4229;
rdbooks.org.
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AT A LITTLE PAST 5 A.M., it was hard for me to keep up with Toshi Mat-
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generic category: freshwater sh, tropical fruit, Andean tuber, aromatic herb,
ancient grain. Part of the fun of eating in
Lima today is to realize how much you
dont know about food. Over a lunch of
home-style criollo cooking a few days
later, Salazar confessed that even he, a
food critic who grew up in Lima, nds
it an exercise in humiliation to eat in
some of the Peruvian capitals ambitious
restaurants, like Malabar, Pedro Miguel
Schiaffinos ode to Amazonian biodiversity. Its like Sanskrit, he said of the
menu. Salazars wife, journalist Lizzy
Cant, added, Half the words youve
never seen before, and the other half
you cant pronounce. You want to say
to the chef, Oh come on! You must have
made this up!
That night I had dinner at Malabar on
my own, and the tasting menu led me
through ingredients that ranged from
the merely exotic (alpaca, freshwater
snails) to the fantastical. One course
featured a vegetable ceviche made
from a cocklebur-like member of the
cucumber-melon family, and coshuro,
gelatinous beads of algae that thrive in
high-altitude lakes. Even ingredients
that I thought I knew turned out to be
completely unfamiliar. One of the best
dishes I had all week was Malabars
baked cherimoya with passion fruit and
avocado granitafruits I recognized
from L.A. farmers markets. But here
the cherimoya was more custardy, the
passion fruit wilder, the avocados richness cut with a bitter edge.
Many critics have proposed that Peru
is the next Scandinaviaa region that
has gestated a new generation of great
chefs dedicated to radical localismbut
Peruvians enjoy a big advantage over the
narrow ecological connes of Scandinavias northern climate (the easy caricature of its cuisine is lichens, twigs, and
weeds on a plate). Peru has some of the
worlds richest ecosystems and most fertile soils. The country famously yields
3,000 varieties of potatoes, but have
you heard about the other Incan tubers
such as yacon, olluco, and oca, the last of
which looks, when raw, like a gold potato ecked with pink glitter and, when
cooked, tastes appealingly like an overripe banana? Quinoa has now reached
American supermarkets, but Limas
chefs are also experimenting with the
equally archaic grains kiwicha and kaihua. The herb huacataywhich made me
think of chervil, tarragon, and mint chatting among themselves about rose geraniumis to Lima what basil is to Rome.
Todays Peruvian chefs are exploring this patrimony as if it were a virgin
continent newly opened for the world
to taste, a collective quest sometimes
called Nuevo Andino or just Modern
Peruvian. By whatever name, it is a
uniquely twenty-first-century movementa kind of Wiki-cuisine with
contributions from the huariques and
the gastronomic temples, from Perus
ancestral Moche culture and the global
culinary avant-garde. Theres an air of
space-race excitement in this city, a rush
of individual research contributing to
shared advances. And after a week of
eating with locals and talking about
their food, I came to see that Modern
Peruvian cuisine has become, for chefs
and average citizens alike, the banner of
a modern Peruvian identity.
the only thing we
talk about, Salazar told
me. Its the only thing we
actually share as a city, from the poorest
guy to the richest guy. One of the theories is that we suck at soccer, so the one
thing we have to be proud of is food.
Nationalist pride in Peruvian food is
not new, but the restaurant scene is. Before the sustained economic growth of
FOOD IS
Previous page: A mix of tropical and subtropical fruit at El Mercadocherimoya, pepino, prickly pear, ground cherries, pomegranate, and
papaya. This page, clockwise from top left: A frothy Guayabo (Hangover) cocktail with mint and spun sugar at Malabar; chef Virgilio
Martnez grows European and South American herbs in his garden at the restaurant Central; Centrals Octopus in the Desert (grilled octopus
with a purple corn sauce); the modernist dining room at Central faces an open kitchen.
O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4 / C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R
97
Opposite: Sudado de cachete (a stew of fish cheeks and collar) at Al Toke Pez, Toshi Matsufujis tiny seafood-centric huarique (loosely
translated as hole in the wall). Above: A dish called Ten Mile Fish at Central displays the diversity of the marine environment around Lima.
O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4 / C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R
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Below, from left: Seafood chowder at Canta Rana includes rice and colorful spices; a display of ingredients at the restaurant Central.
Opposite: Dry aged rib roast at Osso, an influential butcher shop/restaurant.
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C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
EAT
Al Toke Pez
av. angamos 886;
entres from $5.
Astrid y Gastn
Casa Moreyra
av. paz soldan
290; 511-442-2775;
tasting menu,
$215, including
wine pairings.
Canta Rana
genova 101;
511-247-7274;
entres from $10.
Central
calle santa isabel
376; 511-242-8515;
entres from $21.
Chez Wong
calle enrique
len garca 114;
511-470-6217.
El Mercado
hiplito unanue
203; 511-221-1322;
entres from $10.
Fiesta
av. reducto 1278;
511-242-9009;
entres from $30.
Maido
calle san martn
399; 511-444-2568;
entres from $35.
Malabar
camino real 101;
511-440-5200;
tasting menu, $145,
including wine
pairings.
Osso
calle tahiti 175;
511-368-1046.
Just a few hours from New York City, a group of smalltown restaurateurs with big ideas are creating a
new culinary weekend getaway. Abby Aguirre digs in.
C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
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1014-WELL CATSKILLS
REV SHIPPED 8-21
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109
Previous page:
The Delaware River.
This page, from
left: Beet pasta and
squash ravioli at
Table on Ten; sheep
at Thyme Hill Farm.
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111
BLOOMVILLE
DELHI
HAMDEN
WALTON
BOVINA
ANDES
BIG INDIAN
NY
PHOENICIA
Hudson River
PA
STAY
Table on Ten
Farm-to-table restaurant with three airy
guest rooms upstairs.
52030 main st.,
bloomville;
607-643-6509;
tableonten.com;
doubles from $115;
pizzas from $12.
EAT
Brushland
Eating House
Newcomer serving
simple seasonal fare.
1927 county
hwy. 6, bovina;
607-832-4861;
brushlandeatinghouse
.com; entres from $5.
Lucky Dog Cafe
and Farm Store
Caf and shop centered around local
goods and ingredients from its farm.
35796 main st.,
112
Russells
General store and
canteen that serves
great breakfast.
2099 main st., bovina; 607- 832-4242;
russellsstore.com.
SHOP
Kabinett & Kammer
Gorgeous vintage
nds from
Sean Scherer.
7 main st., andes;
845-676-4242;
kabinettandkammer
.com.
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As the host of Top Chef, which begins its twelfth season this month, Padma Lakshmi
eats better (and more adventurously) than even the most avid gourmet.
So where in the world will the self-proclaimed culinary spelunker explore next?
MAKEUP BY LISA BUTLER. HAIR BY AKKI. NAILS BY DARIA HARDEMAN. JEWELRY BY INEZ AND VINOODH, AVAILABLE AT NET-A-PORTER
.COM. BEAUTY NOTE: GET THE LOOK WITH MAKEUP FOR EVER MAT VELVET AND MATIFYING FOUNDATION ($36), CHANEL VARIATION
ROUGE COCO SHINE IN SATISFACTION ($35), AND LANCME HYPNSE DRAMA INSTANT FULL BODY VOLUME MASCARA ($28)
lot of dishes over the years, be they Mexican pottery or Moroccan tagines. Ill even
venture into the kitchen of a restaurant
I like to beg, borrow, and steal!
Its true: Ive been known to get on a
plane for a meal. Of course, I ventured
to Noma in Copenhagen and El Bulli in
the Pyreneesand on other trips, Ive
made it a point to t in a meal at Las Dos
Lunas in Ibiza; a trattoria called Il Rigolo
in Brera, Milan; the seafood restaurant
Trishna in Mumbai; and Le Voltaire and
La Tour dArgent in Paris. In my hometown, New York, I love WD-50 (and for
those of you who havent been, go now
its closing its doors on November 30).
I never want to eat at the hotel.
I always prefer to go to some crazy
market. And there are few things I like
more than pulling off the road because
I see somebody barbecuing out of the
back of a truck. But sometimes, nothing beats 24-hour service, especially if
Im with my daughter, whos ve years
old. So while I may gravitate toward
off-the-beaten-path hotels, I also love
staying at classic places like the Taj
Mahal Palace in Mumbai, the Grand
Hotel et de Milan, and the Ritz in
Paris. Everyone always talks about La
Mamounia in Marrakech, but I liked
the Htel Marrakech Le Tichka even
moreit was just magical.
115
From mega-malls to articial ski slopes to crystal-strewn hotels, Abu Dhabithe wealthiest of
the seven tiny oil-rich states that make up the United Arab Emiratesis embracing the latest
extravagances for travelers. But not far from the dazzle is a different version of the emirate: a
place where the local markets, not the malls, are still the best spots to shop, and where the souks are
fragrant with spices. Whitney Robinson takes the measure of Abu Dhabis past . . . and future.
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117
WHEN PEOPLE ask me what it was like to live and travel in the Gulf States
for the better part of two years, I tell them that it comes down to perception versus reality. That is to say, beyond the glitter, the hype,
and the superlativesthe worlds tallest buildings, biggest articial ski slopes,
and most fantastic wonder mallslie authentic bedouin civilizations. The fact
that the majority of the region is riding a rocket ship to the future thanks to export proceeds from its plentiful natural resources doesnt negate the Middle
Easts vast traditions and values: Its just a little harder to nd them these days.
traditionally accepted personal expression, both by introducing Western artists like Jeff Koons and Richard Serra
into the aesthetic vernacular and by
opening hugely ambitious museums
and underwriting public art projects.
The U.A.E., Oman, Bahrain, Kuwait,
and even Saudi Arabia are also investing heavily in the domestic and international art scenes, but to vastly different
ends, from education and tourism to
just plain commodity.
THEN THERES Abu Dhabi, the official
capital of the U.A.E., which had for
years been considered the quiet, older
(and richer) sister among the three most
important Emirati cities (there are seven
in all, of which Dubai, Sharjah, and
Abu Dhabiwhich has a population
of 2.34 million, 80 percent of whom are
expatriatesare the most populous).
Until relatively recently, Abu Dhabi
had been known as the regions federal
Previous page:
The majestic Sheikh
Zayed Mosque.
Left: The desert
horizon, viewed from
Anantaras Qasr
Al Sarab Resort.
Opposite, clockwise
from top left:
Oranges at the fruit
souk; fresh fish at
the bustling Mina
Zayed Fish Market; a
spread of traditional
mezes; not-sotraditional (but
delicious) macarons
at Emirates Palace.
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STAY
EAT
SHOP
Emirates Palace
Its total Abu Dhabi
opulence here: two
huge pools (one
with waterslides for
kids, the other with
a swim-up bar for
adults), a private
beach club, a 167-berth
marina, and nine different restaurants,
including an outpost
of the swanky Chinese chain Hakkasan.
w. corniche rd.;
971-2-690-9000;
kempinski.com;
doubles from $1,300.
Al Asalah Heritage
Restaurant
The food at this
traditional restaurant
in Abu Dhabis Heritage Village is hardly
high gastronomy,
but the views from
the terrace overlooking the lake are
lovely. If youre lucky,
you might see a dhow
race or one of the official ceremonies held
here and attended
by local sheikhs.
heritage village;
971-2-681-2188;
alasalahrestaurants
.com; entres from $7.
Madinat Zayed
Shopping Centre
and Gold Centre
On the ground oor
of the unassuming
Madinat Zayed Mall,
this collection of 70
or so stores is a treasure trove of every
type of gold jewelry
and trinket imaginable. At the high
end are intricate wedding parures inlaid
with aquamarine,
malachite, and topaz.
madinat zayed
mall; 971-2-633-3311.
Qasr Al Sarab
Desert Resort by
Anantara
A two-hour drive
south of Abu Dhabi,
the Qasr Al Sarab is
a true oasis in the desert. The wonderfully
plush rooms have
Arabian arches and
terraces that look out
over the palm-ringed
pool toward the
dunes. The feeling of
being in the middle of
nowhere, surrounded
by desert, is magical.
And an afternoon
of off-roading through
the sands is a must.
971-2-886-2088; qasr
alsarab.anantara.com;
doubles from $270.
Previous page:
The interior of one
of the stunning
stained-glass domes
at the Sheikh Zayed
Mosque; Anantaras
Qasr Al Sarab is a
picture-perfect oasis.
Opposite, clockwise
from top left:
Cocktails at the
Yas Viceroy Resort;
a carpet seller at
the souk; fresh-made
hummus; cooking
up a feast in the RitzCarltons kitchens.
For more images
of Abu Dhabi,
download our
digital edition.
Yas Viceroy
This futuristic landmark has views of
the Yas Marina and
is the rst hotel built
over a Formula One
racetrack. On race
days, dine on the
terrace at Kazu, its
top-notch sushi restaurant, and watch
the cars weave in
and out of the building. Almost as impressive: the Ferraris
and Maseratis at
valet parking.
yas island; 971-2656-0000; viceroy
hotelsandresorts.com;
doubles from $130.
Al Fanar
Restaurant & Cafe
at the Ritz-Carlton
Most people visiting
Abu Dhabi dont
get the chance to try
authentic Emirati
food, with its staples
of rice, seafood, and
spices (mainly cardamom and saffron),
unless local friends
invite them to their
homes. Al Fanar is
one of the citys few
high-end Emirati
restaurants serving
regional dishes like
Arabic-style biryanis
and harees (a silky
porridge of cracked
wheat and mutton).
grand canal,
venetian village;
971-2-448-1144;
alfanarrestaurant.com;
entres from $20.
Mina Zayed Fish
Market
Buy a sh in the
souk (hamouralso
known as grouperis
the standout in the
region) and you
can have it seasoned
and grilled at one
of the stalls. In winter,
when the weather
is gorgeous, the
nearby gardens are
perfect for picnicking.
al mina, mina
zayed port.
Yas
Perfume and incense
are essential elements
in Abu Dhabis hospitality tradition. Before
you leave a friends
home, your host will
burn incense and fan
the smoke onto your
hair and clothes. Yas,
in the Marina Mall,
sells exotic scents and
essences like sandalwood, musk, and
amber, all in beautiful
Arabian packaging.
marina mall;
971-2-681-1138.
this growth,
whats really fascinating
about Abu Dhabi is how it
still retains so much of its
unique customs and avor. According to
Anissa Helou, a chef, author, and former
adviser to the Kuwaiti royal family who
has traveled here over the last few years,
Abu Dhabi is the place to go to experience
true Emirati food and culture. Its a lot
more genuine than Dubai, she told me
from London, where she runs a soughtafter cooking school. Sure, it has glitzy
buildings and malls, but alongside them
are places like the Mina Zayed Fish Market, where the locals shop.
And if you want to see old-fashioned
Abu Dhabi, thats a good place to start.
Filled to the brim with thousands of
colorful varieties of Gulf sh, shrimp
from Dubai, and Omani lobsters, the
souk can be overwhelming. But it and
the nearby fruit and vegetable market
where mountains of juicy dates, a staple
in signature dishes like roasted whole
baby camel, are piled precariously high
on wooden cartsremain an essential part of everyday life in Abu Dhabi.
The souks are where the locals go for
their food (and their clothes, for that
matter) even though nowadays they
drive there in rainbow-hued Bentleys.
Theyre a living, lasting reminder that
despite the million-dollar cars, the Roman Empireworthy amount of marble,
and the shopping malls that would put
Madison Avenue to shame, its in the
jostle of markets like these, the spiritual descendants of the original trading
posts between East and West, that you
nd the true Abu Dhabi: the riches of a
burgeoning twenty-rst-century world
power abutting a tenth-century one, the
air fragrant with the perfume of oud
and cloves. X
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This was on my rst trip to Japan, way back in the 90s. My ight landed after supper, and by the time I hauled myself from Narita to Shimokitazawa,
that coolest of Tokyo districts, I was straight starving, so my boy Michi took me to his
local ramen-ya. Remember: This was before there was any Ippudo NYC. Before Totto.
Before Jin. Id never had real ramen in my life, but that simple bowl of Hakata-style
tonkotsuthe pork-bone broth of your dreamsjust tore open my brain, my soul,
my tongue. Afterward, in a state of jetlagged exaltation, I swore to myself that,
no matter what, I would go to Fukuoka,
which Michi had identied as the birthplace of the ramen we had just eaten.
Yes, that rst night in Shimokitazawa,
under the lights of the old train station
(now demolished), I swore a sacred ramen oath.
Turns out I suck at sacred ramen
oaths, however, because over the years
I visited Japan 13 more times and never
once made it to Fukuoka. What can I
tell you? Something, it seems, always
came up: trips up north, trips down
the coast, a love affair with Osaka, with
Kyoto, with Tokyoalways Tokyo. In
the end, I never made it farther south
than Miyajima.
And yet despite everything, Fukuoka
seemed to stay in the picture. Close
friends visited the city and brought
back glowing reports and even better
photos. An ex-girlfriend, Dominicana,
revealed out of nowhere that she had
visited the city in the 80s and loved it.
Monocle named it one of the most livable
cities in the world. And then, weirdest
of all, in 2010 the Dominican superstar
Juan Luis Guerra dropped his single
Bachata en Fukuoka. Legend has it
that JLG had gone to Fukuoka to play
a gig and was so blown away by the
Japanese audienceby their energy
and by the fact that they knew all the
words to his songs and could actually
dance bachatathat he recorded the
song in Fukuokas honor. Bachata en
Fukuoka became a number one hit in
the Latin market, and just like that, Fukuoka entered the Dominican lexicon,
guaranteeing that even my country-ass
relatives know that Fukuoka is a city in
Japan. (Its a good song, too.) Anyway, I
took that shit as a sign. And yet clearly I
must not be big on signs, either, because
another four trips to Japan passed before Bachata en Fukuoka came on
one last time and I had finally had it.
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again and again to, of all places, Fukuokas famous yatai. These little food
stalls serving home-style cooking, like
oden and yakitori, were once widespread
in Japan but now survive only in Fukuoka and its vicinity. In general, yatai
get almost no love. Travel guides dismiss them as touristic one-offs, and every Japanese person I mentioned them
to gave me the same spiel: Yatai are for
tourists; locals dont eat there; the food
is expensive and not that great.
Bueno. Maybe Im just a gaijin dummy,
but I did a whole series of yatai and
found the food, on average, to be delicious and affordable, and even when the
food was so-so it didnt really matter,
because the camaraderie inside those
haphazard wood-and-tarp walls was
about the best thing in Fukuoka. I urge
you to sit down at Mami-chans yatai on
Showa-dori, and after she warns you
about the yatai near the river (Same
food as here, but overpriced), tuck into
the rst complimentary wing she dishes
out, followed by her glorious handmade
gyoza and her special yaki-ramennoodles in a very small serving of broth (another local invention)and let the spirit
of Fukuoka, the spirit of contact, take
hold of you. Let it put its hands on you
and let it, like in a bachata, carry you
along. On a good night, everyone will be
talking: to your group, to Mami-chan,
to one another. There will be men in
suits welcoming a new colleague from
Nagoya. A pair of young women who
just graduated from high school and are
celebrating while crammed alongside
a tall, handsome elder, another local,
who hasnt been in a yatai in 30 years.
Back when I was young, he will explain, yatai were where the hungry
boys ate. And something will tell you
that when this prosperous businessman
was young, he too was one of the hungry boys.
Sit in a yatai and its secret will be
revealed: Yatai are nothing less and
nothing more than diminutive contact
zonesplaces where the foundational
physics that made Fukuoka (and the nation) play out in miniature. Sit in a yatai,
shoulder to shoulder with locals and,
yes, with tourists, and what you will
hear, smell, taste, and participate in will
be nothing less and nothing more than
the simple magic from which nations
like ours are born. X
EAT
Fujiyoshi
9-6 nishi-nakasu,
chuo-ku;
81-92-761-5692;
entres from $10.
Suigetsu Honten
3-16-14 hirao,
chuo-ku;
81-92-531-0031;
prix xes from $25.
Ichiran
Fourteen locations
in Fukuoka.
ichiran.co.jp/english;
entres from $8.
Temujin
1-1 hakataekichuogai,
hakata ward;
81-92-413-5239;
gyouzaya.net;
entres from $6.
Shin-Shin
3 chome-2-19
tenjin, chuo-ku;
81-92-732-4006;
hakata-shinshin.com;
entres from $6.
TRAVEL INTEL
Tips, tricks, and miscellany: Our editors guide to this months destinations.
16
Number of special
meal offerings
on Deltas flights,
the most of any
domestic carrier.
Options include
toddler, Japanese,
gluten free,
Hindu, Muslim,
and bland.
O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4 / C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R
129
Travel Intel
1
2
3
4
5
What to Drink in
Lima at . . .
9 A.M.
EMOLIENTE
CHICHA MORADA
PISCO SOUR
131
Travel Intel
Six New
Nonstop Flights
The Apps We
Love for . . .
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES
TABLE8
WOULD YOU
EVER . . .
Newark
Vienna
. . . getting tickets
to a Broadway show:
TODAYTIX
Discounted tickets
will be hand-delivered
to you (in New York
and London).
JETSMARTER
Become a member
($6,999 annually)
or pay as you go (from
$1,980 per hour).
ETIHAD AIRLINES
. . . ride an Air Wheel,
a portable electric
wheel thats like a
Segway without
handlebars? (airwheel
.net; from $650 on
amazon.com)
$381
. . . bypassing the
room service menu:
SEAMLESS
Many hotels
are doing away with
in-room dining,
but a cheeseburger is
always just a click
away (available in
more than 600 cities).
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C O N D N A S T T R AV E L E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 1 4
JETBLUE
New York Curaao
Starting in December
Who Benets New Yorkers who want
to see a Caribbean island they havent
seen yetand be there by lunch.
QATAR AIRWAYS
Dallas
Doha
. . . securing a
private jet:
Guangzhou
Souvenir
Coast to Coast
That espresso at SantEustachio before seeing the Pantheon in Rome; the gin zz at an oldschool New York speakeasy; the chocolat chaud sipped while listening to church bells
outside the Crillon in Parisnothing quite sparks our nostalgia like a Proustian memory of
the rst perfect sip. Sometimes its the little things that we bring back from a placea
cocktail coaster, a bar napkin, a tearoom doilythat end up becoming the most transporting.
Like stamps on the pages of a passport, theyre proof of the sights weve seen and
the meals weve savored, from confetterie and cafs to taverns and trattorias. Lindsay Talbot
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