R.S.BALA KUMAR. Associate professor -(SFDA) HINDUSTAN UNIVERSITY.PADUR.CHENNAI-603103. Rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Many gentlemen like to wear these walking breeches.
The feature of this garment is designed with more ease and as well as the comfort to the wearer. In the waist to hip portion considerable amount of ease is included in this wear. In western countries men and women prefer to wear this active wear for longer period and in recent time people belong to hilly areas mostly prepared to wear this wear in and around the world. This article is written exclusively for the benefit of fashion/clothing technology students. Measurements required:-side seam=43.inside leg=31.waist=32.seat38.knee=141/2.small=13.calf= 14.working scale=19. The Draft-Top side Square lines from0. 1-0=1/3rd scale. 1-2=1/6 th w.scale. 3-2=1/6th scale+1/4. 4-3=3/4.Inch. Square up from 2 to6,the amount of the body-rise.12 rd 1/2inch.5-2 is 1/3 w.scale plus 6-7=2drop from 6 as shown Square out from 6 and 7 from 7 is half waist measure , spring out about 3/8 from 8 to 9.
A from 2 , diagonally , is half 2-3 plus shape the
front , 7-5-A-3. Square downwards from 1 to fix the centre line. 10 from 1 is 1 . for the little extra length required in these garments 11 from 10 ia half leg measure less 2. 12 from 11 is 2 13 from 12 is 3. 14 from 11 is 1; square down to locate 15. B from 11 is knee ; 6 from 12 ia small ; D from 13 is calf. 16 from 0 is 1 ; draw aline from 16 to 14. On this line 17 is midway between 14 and 16 ; mark out about 2 . to J . [ This amount may be varied to taste]. The topside is now complete ; take out dress as dot dash lines. UNDERSIDE Using B as pivot, sweep out from 3 ti 18. 18 from 3 is 1/12 scale plus . Draw the seat line from 4 through 5 to 20 , making the last point 1/6 scale plus 1 . above H , located on the original top line of the topside. Mark out 3/8 at 20 and shape the seat-seam from this point through 19 [2 below 20 ] and H , as shown ; continue through 5 and hollow from this point down to 18 , indicated.
Draw two lines from point above 8 and 9 ,
respectively , to locate 21 and 22. Now measure the topside waist from 7 to 8 , place this amount at 19 and continue to 21 , half the waist measure plus 2 ; make 3/8 spring to 22 . these points are best fixed by placing the angle of square at the best fixed by placing the angle of square at seat line at points 19 and 20. M from 20 is 1 ; K from M is 1. Measure from B to 14 , place this amount at B again and continue to 24 the knee measure plus 1 . Measure from C to L and from D to 15 in the same way , placing the amounts as described and continuing to 25 and 26 , apply small and calf measures plus 1 . P and N are below the knee line for the back cut ; connect these points with slight hollow. Draw the under line leg-seam from 18 to F , which is about in from N and below it . 23 from 16 is 2 . measure along the contour 16 -J-14 of the top side and make the same distance , less m from 13 to27. E from 11 is 1 . measure along the contour N-P and make F-E-27 the same . the run of this contour should cross the line at 28 , half the knee measure from N . Place balance marks at the side , equal distance from 16 and 23 . the topside is fulled into the underside where indicated by the wavy line.