SILK

INTRODUCTION
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can

bewovenintotextiles.
The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly offibroinand

is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons.

The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the

larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in

captivity (sericulture).
The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the

triangularprism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows

silk cloth to refract incoming light at differentangles, thus
producing different colors.
Silk is produced by several insects, but generally only the
silk of moth caterpillars has been used for textile
manufacturing. There has been some research into other
types of silk, which differ at the molecular level.

HISTORY
Silk fabric was first developed in ancient China
The earliest example of silk fabric is from 3630 BC, and it

was used as wrapping for the body of a child from a

Yangshao site in Qingtaicun at Xingyang, Henan
Silks were originally reserved for the Emperors of China for

their own use and gifts to others, but spread gradually

throughChinese culture and trade both geographically
and socially, and then to many regions ofAsia.
The first evidence of the long distance silk trade is the

finding of silk in the hair of anEgyptianmummyof the 21st

[14]

dynasty, c.1070 BC.

The silk trade reached as far as the Indian subcontinent,

theMiddle East,Europe, andNorth Africa. This trade was so

extensive that the major set of trade routes between
Europe and Asia came to be known as theSilk Road.

 Today, silk is more than just a luxury fabric for the rich

and famous.
The qualities of silk that make it suitable for textiles and

threads also make it ideal for items such as surgical

sutures where the strength of the silk and its organic
composition enable it to act as a strong suture thread
that is non-absorbable by the human body. \
Silk does not trigger a response from the autoimmune

system, it has been used to engineer ligaments and

bones from people who have sustained damage to
these parts of the body.
The silk fibers can be used to provide a repair structure

for muscles, bone, cartilage and tendons. But the

modern uses of silk do not end in the medical field.
Silk is also being used in the fields of photonics and

optics as well as in electronic applications.

While still a dominant player in the textile industry, silk is

quickly making its way into other areas of our modern

lives.

TYPES OF SILK
Silk can be obtained either from cultivated

silk worms or wild species

Silk from wild species is known as Tussah silk

and is coarser, stronger and short fibre

Tussah silk is light brown or tan in colour and

cannot be bleached
At times, two silk worm nests together and

form one cocoon made of double strand.

The fibres are not separated and is known as

dupion silk

MOLECULAR
STRUCTURE
1)Silk is composed of polypeptide chains.
2)Estimated Molecular weight is between 84000 to 220000
3)X-Ray analysis shows high degree of crystallinity in the silk
filament

PHYSICAL STRUCTURE
1) It is natural protein fiber composed mainly of fibroid.
2)Silk fiber is solid,smooth but irregular in diameter along its shaft.
3)Filaments of silk fiber are triangular in cross section with rounded
corners.
4)Very fine fiber - 1.25 denier/filament(dpf)

PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS

1) Natural colour of silk is off-white to cream.

2)It has fine diameter of 9 to 11 microns.
3)Degummed silk has high luster but is not so bright as manufactured
fibres with round cross sections.
4)Silk is flexible enough and drapes well and can be tailored well too

CHEMICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
1)Absorbency of silk is good.
2)Heat conductivity of silk is low also as electricity conductivity is not
high,silk tends to build up static electric charges,especially in dry
atmospheres.
3)Silk is non conductor of heat.
4)Acids harm silk faster than they harm wool.
However,organic acids do not harm silk.

PROCESSING
Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by certain caterpillars in order to
encase themselves in the form of cocoons. The making of silk is different from
that of other natural fibers. There are many steps involved in silk manufacturing

Cultivation of Cocoons ( Sericulture)

Filature Operations

Manufacturing of Silk Yarns

Finishing of Silk Fabrics

SERICULTURE
Caterpillar-CocoonSericulture is the cultivation of cocoons

for their filaments.

The best raw silk is obtained from the species of moth

called Bombyx mori.

Breeding of silkworm occurs once in a year but under

scientific conditions, they may be hatched three times a

year.
The female moth lays around 350 to 400 eggs and the

moths die soon after.

As they are subject to hereditary infection, the eggs from

infected moths are destroyed which results into

production of fine silk.
Larvae of about 3mm are hatched from the eggs.
For about 20 to 30 days, they are carefully nurtured and

are fed five times a day on chopped mulberry leaves.

 In the meantime, the larvae change their skin for four times and are formed into caterpillar of about 9 cm long.
Now they are ready to spin cocoon for which racks, clusters of twigs or straw are provided.
The caterpillar have small openings under their jaws called spinnerets through which they secret a protein like

substance.
This substance solidifies when it comes in contact with air and the filament thus formed is spun around the

silkworm in the figure resembling the digit 8.

In three days the cocoon gets completed which is about a peanut shell's size.
The filament is held together by sericin or silk gum.
The life of the worm is ended by the process of 'stoving' or 'stifling' in which the cocoons are heated.
Some of the cocoons are preserved so that the pupa or chrysalis inside them develop into moths for further

breeding.

FILATURE OPERATIONS
The raw silk is unwound from cocoons and are

collected into skeins in the factories known as Filature.

Here the cocoons are sorted based on their color, size,

shape and texture.

Then they are immersed in hot and cold water to

soften the sericin so that filament could be unwound

into one continuous thread.
The whole of the sericin is not removed at this stage as

it protects the delicate filament in further operations.

'Reeling' is the process of unwinding the filament from

the cocoon.
Three to ten filaments are together reeled for

producing the desired diameter of raw silk thread.

MANUFACTURING
The reeled silk is formed into silk yarn or silk thread through

the process called Throwing'

The raw silk skeins are sorted according to their color, size,

length or quantity and washed in warm water with soap or

oil for softening the sericin.
After drying the skeins, they are placed on reels from where

the silk is wound on bobbins.

During winding, the silk strands are given desired amount of

twist.
The strands may be doubled and then given twist in similar

or opposite directions.
Still remaining sericin is removed from silk yarn by the process

of 'Degumming' in which the yarn is washed with soap and

water for bringing out its natural shine and the soft feel.

DYEING
1. Silk can be dyed using various dyes such as Acid dyes, metal-complex, reactive
dyes, etc.
2. Acid dyes are more suitable for the protein based fibers such as Wool and Silk.
3. Good dye affinity in the silk fabric due to simple and orderly arrangement of fibroin
molecular structure and the abundance of the hydrogen and electrostatic bonds.
4. Acid dyes are widely used for dyeing silk, using which a wide range of bright
shades can be obtained.

5. These dyes are sodium salts of organic

acids (mostly sulphonic acid) and are
applied from acidic medium.
6. For the better dye uptake on the material
or exhaustion of dye from the dye bath
requires:
Proper dye containing less impurities (as
per specified standards),
Well maintained PH, quality of water
(should not contain higher acidic or
alkaline or hardness),
needs proper duration of dyeing or
drying.
7. Variety of machines are available for
dyeing silk such as Tub dyeing, Arm Dyeing,
Jigger/Winch dyeing etc.

PROCEDURE OF SILK
DYEING
Initially the soaking of silk yarn is carried out with water and little

amount of coconut oil for 20 minutes for swelling purpose

Squeezing is done to remove excess water.
60 grams of dye is pasted with water, with warm heating at 40C and

then it is added to 20 litres of water in which 5 kg of silk is introduced

and dyeing is carried out in presence of acid upto 60C from 2-4 hours
then squeezed and dried
They produce 30 kgs/day and wages range from200 to 300/Labour.

FINISHING
Many finishing processes are applied to different silk fabrics in order

to improve their appearance, durability and feel.

Calendering and Cireing is done to enhance luster, singeing is done

to make them smooth, and steaming is done for raising pile weaves.
Pressing and lustering removes wrinkles from the finished fabric. It is

done with heated rollers and then soaking in dilute acid to bring
luster.
One finish that is unique to silk fabric is 'Weighting'. The weight of silk

is lost during the process of demugging. The manufacturer

purchases silk by weight and to make up his loss, he does weighting
of silk fabric with metallic substances such as stannic chloride,
sodium phosphate, iron salt, logwood etc. Weighting is done during
the dyeing process. Weighted silk is less compactly woven when
compared to the unweighted silk and lesser silk is used in the fabric
construction. Apart from lowering the cost of silk, weighting gives it
crispness, luster and a firm feel.

ADVANTAGES
Luxurious hand (the feel of a fiber, yarn, or fabric to the wearer)
Excellent drape (a fabrics ability to fold while worn)
Wonderful luster (reflection of light on fabric)
Hydrophilic
Stain resistant
Strong but lightweight

DISADVANTAGES
Turns yellow if bleached
Poor resistance to exposed sunlight
Expensive
Fair abrasion and resiliency
Degrades over time with exposure to oxygen, making it difficult to
preserve

USES OF SILK
1)Used in garments like formal dresses,saree,suit,shawls.
2)Silk has absorbency property,which is appropriate for warm weather wear and active sportswear.
3)Appropriate for cold weather wear because of its low heat conductivity.
4)Silk has luster,softness,to its texture and has strength and weighs light, hence used in
nightwear,lingerie,pajamas,robes.
5)Silk is a versatile fiber,it is not only used in garments or clothing but also in home furnishings,wall
coverings,rugs,bedding etc.
6)It has industrial & commercial uses also,such as in parachute,comforter,filings, artillery gunpowder
bags.
7)It is also used in making other fabrics such as chiffon,crepe-de-chine,brocades etc.
8)From silk threads beautiful embroidery can be made and lace,ribbons etc.
9)It can be used in making shoes,bags.
10)It is used in medical field for sutures and prosthetic arteries.