Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
13 Thailand 13 Deep South
13 Thailand 13 Deep South
713
Deep South
Where is Mr DeMille? the Deep South is ready for its close-up. After years of waiting in the
wings while diva destinations shone under the suns tropical spotlight, Thailands southern
frontier is taking the stage, hungry for attention.
The kingdoms Deep South darling is Ko Tarutao Marine Park, whose sand-fringed isles
swirl in a tapestry of infinite aqua and jade. Head straight to tiny Ko Lipe, then discover the
wilds of the neighbouring islands with a troop of local chow lair (sea gypsies).
Exploring the mainland is like opening a clock a trip to Hat Yai reveals what makes the
region tick under the ambient holiday veneer. This trade and transport hub is a rowdy and
raucous burg that clangs to the sound of incoming traffic, outgoing produce and haggling in
the crowded local markets. The pace is slower in nearby Songkhla, whose urban soundtrack
mixes the rhythmic lapping of the tides with the muezzins call to prayer.
For the past few years, the political situation in the southernmost provinces (Yala, Pattani
and Narathiwat) has been unstable, and travelling here can be a risky venture. Sect violence
and bouts of terror-inducing attacks are the norm, and although tourists arent the targets
of these aggressive outbursts, its better not to risk it. Its a shame though these sleepy
towns silently simmer in 2000 years worth of mystical kingdoms, aromatic spice markets
and imperialist mercantilism. If, by the time you read this, the heated situation has cooled,
consider editing your itinerary to include a little look-see. If not, thumb through the end of
this chapter you might learn a bit more about the many faces in the land of smiles.
HIGHLIGHTS
Clicking your camera at a colourful long-tail
Songkhla
Hat Yai
Ko Phetra Marine
National Park
Ko Rawi
Ko Adang
Ko Lipe
DEEP SOUTH
404
Ko Phetra Marine
National Park
Ko Li
Bong
Trang
Ko Botang
Ko Lipe
Ko Tarutao Marine
National Park
Ko Rawi
Ko Adang
Ko
Tarutao
SATUN
Pulau
Langkawi
Satun
PHATTALUNG
Pak Bara
SEA
ANDAMAN
Ko
Lanta
DEEP SOUTH
DEEP SOUTH
406
Padang
Besar
43
Ton Nga
Chang
Falls
Rattaphum
Thale
Sap
42
408
43
42
67
MALAYSIA
Sadao SONGKHLA
408
Songkhla
Chana
43
Hat Yai
407
Ko
Yo
Hat Samila
Khukhut Waterbird
Sanctuary
Hat
Thepha
76
Betong
410
410
Yala
42
42
MALAYSIA
Tak Bai
Ao Manao
Sungai
Kolok
Narathiwat
Hat Wasukri
Saiburi
NARATHIWAT
PATTANI
Hat Panare
Hat Khae Khae
Kheuan
Banglang
YALA
409
Pattani
Laem
Tachi
THAILAND
GULF OF
0
0
Ban
Taba
Losin
Ko Losin
50 km
30 miles
714 D E E P S O U T H
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
History
Current Events
After many years of relative peace, the Thai
government reduced the strength of their grip
in Pattani by annulling their police statelike
control. In 2004 tensions quickly heightened
as separatist sentiments flourished anew.
These antigovernment feelings came at a time
when job numbers were dwindling as corporate fisheries ploughed through, wrecking
family-run operations. Terrorist attacks had
a distinctive communist slant reminiscent of
demonstrations many decades ago.
The first major incident that signified a
notable rise in antigovernment sentiments
occurred in late April 2004, when a string of
organised attacks blasted through 11 government buildings across the region at dawn.
Insurgents gathered in the Krua Se mosque
and held off military forces for nine long
hours until the army wore them down and
killed everyone inside. Critics argued that
such severe force was completely unnecessary and that negotiations should have taken
place before the mass killing. Only six months
later, at the end of 2004, the Tak Bai incident
further created a worrisome rift between the
government and its Muslim citizens. Upon
the arrest of six southern men, crowds of
young locals gathered to demand their release. The demonstrators were met with brute
military force and were promptly rounded up
and taken to nearby Pattani. Over 80 locals
died during the ordeal from severe beatings
and mistreatment.
By 2006, when a political coup ejected
prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra from office, the death toll in the border provinces had
reached over 1400 victims. Unfortunately,
the sudden shift in government did not put
an end to the violence in the south. By mid2007 the body count had virtually doubled to
roughly 2600, despite the resurrection of the
Southern Border Provinces Administrative
DEEP SOUTH
D E E P S O U T H H i s t o r y 715
716 D E E P S O U T H C l i m a t e
lonelyplanet.com
DEEP SOUTH
Youre probably thinking, Why should I risk my life to find a farng-less beach when there are
so many other amazing beach destinations in Thailand? Wellyou have a really good point. The
last thing we want is for you to return from your tropical adventure in a cedar box. But dont
dismiss Thailands Deep South so quickly, intrepid traveller; there are many places in the region
that have never experienced the terrorism detailed in the global newspapers.
One quick thing before we give you the low-down: we (of course) cannot promise that any
destination is always safe (youll find lengthy Dangers & Annoyances sections in our coverage
of Thailands most popular vacation spots), so when we refer to a place as being tourist-friendly,
we mean that they are just as safe as, say, Phuket or Chiang Mai.
Satun Province has never been consumed in the political turmoil endemic to its next-door
neighbours. The provinces pice de rsistance is the must-see Ko Tarutao Marine National Park
(p720), a collection of 50-some scruffy jungle islands. Songkhla Province is also safe, save for the
provinces four southernmost counties, which have had blips on the police radar. The bustling
business town of Hat Yai (p726) is a great spot for market oglers, while Songkhla Town (p729)
is a haven for laid-back types who are looking to step off the tourist trail.
As far as the other provinces go? They are untouched hinterlands swathed in thousands of
years of religious history. But, like you mentioned before, there are plenty of other beaches and
temple towns awaiting the flash of your camera, so its probably best to start elsewhere. See
p715 for more information. Those who are contemplating a visa run across the Malaysian border
should consider traversing on the Ko LipeLangkawi circuit; however, if youre on a Butterworthbound train its not the end of the world to hop the border elsewhere.
Climate
If you are planning to visit the islands in Satun
Province, it is best to plan your trip between
early November and mid-May the seas tend
to be quite choppy during the low season and
ferry services drastically dwindle. Monsoon
rains between June and October make travel
along the Andaman Coast rather unappealing.
On the other hand, the regions gulf-facing
provinces experience the most rain between
October and December.
National Parks
Wild islands, pristine beaches and azure seas
provide plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and diving in remote Ko Tarutao
( p720 ) and Ko Phetra ( p719 ) Marine
National Parks.
Language
Roughly three million citizens in Thailands
Deep South speak Yawi. Also called Pattani
Malay, the dialect is commonly spoken in
the Muslim community, who make up approximately 80% of the local population.
Getting Around
Getting around Thailands Deep South has
become quite straightforward in recent years.
Land transport gets funnelled through Hat
Yai (p728), while maritime transport along
the Andaman Coast passes through the port
town of Pak Bara (p719). The gulf waters are
rather quiet, other than foreign oil-drilling
prospects. Transport to the Ko Tarutao
Marine National Park generally shuts down
during wet season.
SATUN PROVINCE
SATUN
l^)]
pop 33,400
DEEP SOUTH
S AT U N P R O V I N C E S a t u n 717
718 S AT U N P R O V I N C E S a t u n
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
SATUN
A
Th Khuhaprawat
an
Th Reu
500 m
0.3 miles
run
grit Ja
Soi 10
Monkey
Mt Forest
Park
Kh
l on
5
Soi 5
2
Footbridge
Soi 8
Hatt
Soi
hakh
ang
am
Seuk
sa
Th Yatrasawat
Bamb
Th Satu
n Thanee
Th
11
2
10
14
4
ithi
Th Tirasathit
Soi 1
Soi 4
Wis
et Mayura
DEEP SOUTH
13
oon
Th
Th Sulakanuk
4051
Soi 3
Th
Pra
cha
-UThid
iniw
Th
3
Sam
ant
a P
ras
it
Soi 6
12
Soi 8
15
Soi 10
Th
Th S
INFORMATION
Bangkok Bank.....................................1
Immigration Office.............................2
Post Office.........................................3
Siam Commercial Bank.......................4
Th Burivan
ich
Th Ap
hinurat
rumuluk
9
6
Phu
min
at
B3
B3
B3
B3
C3
B2
B4
B4
B3
B4
lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around
Small orange srngtaou (also spelt
swngthew; pick-up trucks) to Tammalang
pier (for boats to Malaysia) cost 50B and
leave every 20 minutes or so between 8am
and 5pm from a depot opposite the Thai Ferry
Centre. A motorcycle taxi from the same area
costs 60B.
PAK BARA
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Satuns quiet coastline has a few small towns
that serve as jumping-off points for the islands in the Ko Phetra and Ko Tarutao Marine
National Parks, but the fishing community of
Pak Bara is the main point of transit. There
is a sense of anticipation in the air here as
new businesses open their doors and transport links continue to expand. Plans are in
the works to cut a deep-water channel across
the peninsula from Pak Bara to Songkhla
that would eliminate the need for vessels to
travel down to Singapore when passing from
Thailands gulf to the Andaman Sea. If these
plans are realised, Pak Bara and its new deepwater seaport will become an important point
on the map. Currently, there are no ATMs in
Pak Bara (the closest one is in La-Ngu).
Travellers planning to visit the quieter
islands of the Ko Tarutao National Park should
stop by the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485) just
behind the pier, where you can book accommodation and obtain permission for camping.
Travel agencies at the pier will gladly sell you
a ticket to wherever you want to go, and many
of these businesses also offer kayaking and
snorkelling day trips (from 1500B).
We wouldnt recommend putting Pak Bara
on your trips itinerary, but if you get stuck in
town, there are a couple of places to stay, including Best House Resort (%0 7578 3058; bungalows
590B; a), which is the closest to the pier. The
friendly owner manages a cluster of bungalows surrounding a pond. If youre waiting for
a speedboat to one of the islands, there are a
few Muslim restaurants huddling around the
pier the best one is next to Andrew Tour.
There are hourly minibuses from Hat Yai
(southern Thailands main transport hub) to
the pier at Pak Bara (150B, two hours) between
7am and 4pm. They also operate a reverse
service. A private taxi from Hat Yai will cost
roughly 1500B. A taxi from Trang costs 600B,
Ko Bulon Leh
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DEEP SOUTH
S AT U N P R O V I N C E Pa k B a r a 719
720 S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k
Most places here shut down in the rainy season. There are a few local restaurants and
a small shop in the Muslim village next to
Bulon Viewpoint.
Bulone Resort (%08 1897 9084; www.bulone-resort
.com; bungalows 600-1200B) My Bulone has a first
name, its b-e-a-c-h(sorry, we couldnt resist). The pick of the bunch when it comes
to budget options, this simple affair has airy
cottages in various sizes, all with plenty of
shade under the tall casuarinas that line the
northern part of the beach.
Pansand Resort (%0 7521 8035; www.pansand-resort
.com; 82-84 Th Visetkul; cottages incl breakfast 1000-1700B)
DEEP SOUTH
Ko Tarutao
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The overgrown ruins of the camp for political prisoners can be seen at Ao Taloh Udang,
in the southeast of the island, reached via a
long overgrown track. The prison camp for
civilian prisoners was over on the eastern
coast at Ao Taloh Waw, where the big boats
from Satuns Tammalang pier now dock. A
concrete road runs across the island from Ao
Taloh Waw to Ao Pante Malacca on the western coast, where youll find the park headquarters, bungalows and the main camping
site. Boats travel between Ao Pante Malacca
and Pak Bara on the mainland.
Ko Bulo
Ko
Sakai
Ko Rawi
Ko Hin Song
Ko Sarang
Ko
Yang
To Ko Lantra
To Pulau
Langkawi (90km)
Ko Lipe
Laem
Son
Ko Adang
Pirate's
Falls
Ko Tarang
Ko Bong Kang
ANDAMAN SEA
Adang-Rawi
Archipelago
Ko Hin Ngam
Ko Butang
Jonlong Leh
Falls
EATING
Canteen...........................................(see 5)
SLEEPING
Ao Molae Bungalows & Camp Sites..(see 3)
Ao Pante Malaka Bungalows & Camp
Sites.............................................(see 8)
Ao Taloh Waw Camp Sites...............(see 5)
E2
E3
E3
B4
B4
E2
E2
E2
Ko Ta-Nga
Ko Khai
Ko Klang
To Ko Muk (66km);
Ko Lanta;
Ko Ngai
Ko Bulon
Don
Ao Son
Ao
Makham
Ao Molae
Ao Jak
Lo Po 5
Falls
Lu Du
Falls
8 10
Pulau
Langkawi
Ko Lidee
Pak Bara
20 km
12 miles
SATUN
La-Ngu
To Trang To
(99km) Satun
(46km)
MALAYSIA
Ko Rung
Nok
Ao Taloh Waw
Ao Rusi
Ko Le-Lah
Ao Taloh Udang
Ko Tarutao
Ao Pante Malacca
Pha Papinyong
Laem Tanyong
Hara
Ko Phetra
Marine National
Park
Ko Bulon
Ko Khao
Mai Pai
Yai
Ko Bulon
Rang
Ko Bulon Leh
0
0
DEEP SOUTH
INFORMATION
Ko Phetra Marine National Park
Headquarters..................................1 F1
Ko Tarutao Marine National Park
Headquarters..................................2 F1
lonelyplanet.com
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k & A r o u n d 721
722 S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k
DEEP SOUTH
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Ko Lipe
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If youre yearning to take that quintessential
photograph of a tangerine long-tail bobbing
along in a perfect turquoise sea, then make a
beeline to Ko Lipe, and get here fast! Over the
last two years, developers have snared most of
the islands oceanfront property (and a good
amount of the scraggly jungle too). Although
little Lipe still clings to its laid-back vibe, the
islands chow lair village is shrinking, new
resorts are popping up and theres starting to
be a bit of a rubbish problem. Were afraid
that it wont be long before vacationers rename the island mini Ko Phi-Phi
ORIENTATION
D2
D3
D2
E2
EATING
Aroy................................................ 13
Caf Lipe......................................... 14
Flour Power Bakery.......................... 15
Pooh's..............................................16
TRANSPORT
Speedboat Departure Office............(see 4)
DRINKING
Jack's Jungle Bar..............................(see 8)
Karma Bar........................................ 17 D1
E3
E3
E2
E3
D2
E1
C2
D2
D3
Sunset Beach
ANDAMAN SEA
10
12
15
14
Hat Pattaya
11
Ao
Pattaya
13
Ko Lipe
17
16
Sunrise
Beach
Ko
Kra
Chao Leh
Village
0
0
SLEEPING
Bundhaya Resort.................................4
Castaway Resort.................................5
Forra Bamboo.....................................6
Idyllic Resort.......................................7
Jack's Jungle Bungalows.................... 8
Mountain Resort.................................9
Pattaya Song....................................10
Porn Resort...................................... 11
Sita Resort........................................12
DEEP SOUTH
INFORMATION
Friends Travel.....................................1 E2
Immigration Office...........................(see 4)
KO LIPE
F
1 mile
2 km
lonelyplanet.com
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o L i p e 723
724 S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k
DEEP SOUTH
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 725
on a laid-back island like Ko Lipe. The uberorganised resort doubles as a speedboat ticket
and immigration office. Soulless wooden
bungalows are comfortable but overpriced,
although the complimentary buffet breakfast
will keep you full until dinner.
Castaway Resort (%08 3138 7472; www.castaway
-resorts.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 3000-6250B; i)
DEEP SOUTH
726 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i
GETTING AROUND
SONGKHLA PROVINCE
Motorbike taxis whiz around the island offering rides for 50B per person (there are no cars
on Ko Lipe); however, its so small that taxi hire
is only necessary if youre hauling some serious luggage. Long-tail taxis whoosh around the
island for the same price.
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DEEP SOUTH
lonelyplanet.com
HAT YAI
skfBsPj
pop 193,732
Information
Bangkok Hatyai Hospital (%0 7436 5780-9;
bhhimc@bgh.co.th; 75 Soi, 15 Th Phetkasem) One of the
best health-care providers in southern Thailand, it offers
full medical care and has English-speaking staff.
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i 727
0
0
HAT YAI
B
C
Th Niphat Songkhrao 1
Th Rattakan
To Bangkok Hatyai
Hospital (300m);
Songkhla (28km)
sem
Th Suphasan Rangsan
Th Phetkasem
1
Sights
Th Niphat Uthit 3
Th Niphat Uthit 2
Th Sanehanuson
3
To Bus Terminal (500m);
Sadao (40km);
Dan Nawk (53km)
Th Siphu
nawa
To Sungai Kolok
(208km)
Sleeping
Hat Yai has dozens of hotels within walking
distance of the train station.
Cathay Guest House (%0 7424 3815; 93/1 Th Niphat
Uthit 2; r 160-250B) Ludicrously helpful staff and
plentiful information about onward travel
make up for the slightly scary rooms at this
popular cheapie.
Kings Hotel (%0 7422 0966; 126-134 Th Niphat Uthit;
s/d 450/50B; a) Its no royal palace, but Kings
offers prim rooms stocked with TVs, minifridges and dated decorations (c 1983). Its
two blocks from the train station.
DEEP SOUTH
If you arent into shopping malls and cabarets, then Hat Yai falls short in the attraction
department. Wat Hat Yai Nai, 1.5km out of town,
features a 35m reclining Buddha (Phra Phut
Mahatamongkon). Inside the images gigantic
base is a curious little museum and mausoleum with a souvenir shop. To get here, catch a
Th Padungpakdee
14
Th Kim Pradit
kro
it
Uth
Th Niphat Uthit 1
Rat
TRANSPORT
Airport Taxi Service.......................... 17 C3
Minivans to Surat Thani................... 18 C3
To
One-Two-Go Office.........................19 C3
THAI..............................................(see 17) Padang
Besar
Train Station.....................................20 B3 (60km)
19
Th Thamnoonvithi
To
ei
9
Th Chi Uthit
15
g
Th Tephson
Th
ENTERTAINMENT
Barberry Club................................... 16 A1
Hansa Caf....................................(see 16)
Paragon Club.................................(see 16)
17
Th Manasruedee
lon
13
10
Kh
18
5
DRINKING
Post Laserdisc...................................15 C3
Th Prachathip
at
7
12
Chan
20
Th Duangchan
Th Saeng
vith
tharn
n
Soo
C3
C3
C3
C2
C3
C3
C4
Th Sang See
Th P
hetk
a
Th
EATING
BP Hotel.............................................8
Kai Tod Daycha..................................9
Montien Hotel..................................10
Night Market....................................11
Novotel............................................ 12
Sor Hueng 3.....................................13
Tamrab Muslim................................ 14
ti Anuson
Th Rattakan
C4
C4
Th Jiranna
khon
Th Chu
11
Th Montri 1
B2
C1
Th Rotfai
INFORMATION
Immigration Office.............................1
Main Post Office................................ 2
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
Office............................................ 3
Tourist Police..................................... 4
SLEEPING
Cathay Guest House.......................... 5 C3
Kings Hotel........................................ 6 C4
Regency Hotel....................................7 C3
Th Pratham Uthit
16
t
Th Nipharao 3
Songkh
To Bangkok
(993km)
o2
ngkhra
t So
Th Nipha
400 m
0.2 miles
728 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i
DEEP SOUTH
lonelyplanet.com
TRAIN
Getting Around
An Airport Taxi Service (%0 7423 8452) makes the
run to/from the airport (80B, four daily, during daylight hours). A private taxi for this run
costs about 300B.
Srngtaou run along Th Phetkasem
and charge 5B per person. A tk-tk around
town should cost you 10B per person, though
drivers do like to try to charge foreigners
20B instead.
The great city on two seas lends itself perfectly to the click of a visitors camera; however, slow-paced Songkhla doesnt see much
in the way of tourist traffic. Although the
town hasnt experienced any of the Muslim
separatist violence plaguing the provinces
further south, its still catching the same bad
press. This is a darn shame, since its the last
safe city where travellers can experience the
unique flavour of Thailands predominately
Muslim Deep South. The population is a mix
of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and the local
architecture and cuisine reflect this fusion at
every turn.
Big-name international petroleum companies and their exploration interests offshore
bring an influx of multinational (particularly British and Canadian) oil-company
employees to the region. The result is a
strong Western presence in Songkhla that
has helped create a relatively open-minded
and prosperous town.
The city has a split personality, with the
charming older section west of Th Ramwithi
towards the waterfront, and a modern mix of
business and suburbia to the east. If you enter
town from the north, or leave town heading
Information
Banks can be found all over town.
Immigration office (%0 7431 3480; Th Laeng Phra
Ram; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions can
be filed here.
Malaysian consulate (%0 7431 1062; 4 Th Sukhum)
Police station (%0 7431 2133)
Post office (Th Wichianchom) Opposite the market;
international calls can be made upstairs.
Sights
CITY CENTRE
DEEP SOUTH
Orientation
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a & A r o u n d 729
730 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
SONGKHLA
A
11
B
Laem
Songkhla
Th
S on
n
Aw
18
Hat Son
Awn
B3
C3
A3
B5
B5
A1
C3
C3
B3
C3
A1
B4
Ram
Phra
aeng
Th L
Th Chon Charoen
EATING
Crown Bakery.................................. 16
J Glass.............................................. 17
Jetty Restaurant Departure Point......18
Khao Nawy.......................................19
Naa Suan Night Market................... 20
Parlang.............................................21
Pavilion Hotel Market.......................22
Roti Stand........................................ 23
Seafood Restaurants.........................24
Wachira Night Market..................... 25
10
khu
Th Su
8
Golf
Course
Trail
Cable
Car
Soi 5
Th Chai Khao
Lam
Th Sisuda
Th
sai
Th Saiburi
gam
ai N
Th S
an Mak
19
Th Su
21
Th Chaiya
16
Tinnasulanon Stadium
23 Sunday Market
22
Th Nasan
a)
Th
Rim
leh
ket
Tha
14
Th Sa
Day
Market
City Hall
rath
atha (P
Th Pl
Train
Station
28 (Closed)
Night
Market
on
gkh
Mon
Th
Rat
Th Chai
Th Saiburi
ng
Lua
withi
Th Phetchakhiri
Hat
Samila
27
Th Ram
Th Wichianchom
Th Sadao
Th Sai Ngam
26
15
Th Rong Meuang
12
Th Jana
5
Gulf of Thailand
13
Awn
Th Son
2
le
Tha
Th Noi
Thaleh
Sap Songkhla
TRANSPORT
Buses and Minivans to Hat Yai......... 28 C5
Buses to Nakhon Si Thammarat........29 C6
Minivans to Pattani & Yala............... 30 C5
Srngtaou to Ko Yo....................(see 28)
Taxi Stand......................................(see 27)
24
dam
30
on
amongk
etch
Th Ph
Ngam
Nai
Th
talung
kh
Na
Th Phat
ale
Th Th
on
29
Luang
wk
Na
Th
To
Bus Station
(200m)
20
Sa
ib
ur
To Green World
Palace Hotel (600m);
Zoo (4km);
Jetty (14km);
Ko Yo (14km);
Hat Yai (28km);
Pattani (162km)
25
ng
noe
Th Phetkalu
onimongk
Th Cha ongkon
am
Phetch
uri
Th Saib
Th Nang
Th Nakhon
Nok
Th Nakhon
DEEP SOUTH
cha
17
C4
B5
A1
B4
C6
C4
C4
C4
C3
D6
DRINKING
Baan Kafae.......................................26 C4
Corner Bier.......................................27 C4
INFORMATION
Immigration Office............................. 1
Malaysian Consulate.......................... 2
Police Station..................................... 3
Police Station...................................... 4
Post Office......................................... 5
SLEEPING
BP Samila Beach Hotel...................... 13 C3
Romantic Guest House..................... 14 B5
Yoma Guest House.......................... 15 B4
500 m
0.3 miles
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Sleeping
Songkhlas hotels tend to be lower priced than
other areas in the gulf, which makes going up
a budget level a relatively cheap splurge.
Yoma Guest House (%0 7432 6433; Th Rong Meuang;
r 250-350B; a) Like staying in the home of the
Thai grandmother you never knew you had,
this homey option offers a batch of cutesy,
brightly coloured rooms.
Romantic Guest House (%0 7430 7170; 10/1-3 Th
Platha; r 250-380B; a) Substantial, airy abodes
smell fresh and all come with TVs. The bamboo beds are a charming extra touch. The
cheapest rooms have shared toilets.
Green World Palace Hotel (%0 7443 7900-8; 99 Th
Samakisukson; r 750-900B; ais) When expats
say that sleeping in Songkhla is a steal, theyre
not lying Green World is the proof. This
classy affair boasts chandeliers, a spiralling
staircase in the lobby and a 5th-floor swimming pool with views. Rooms are immaculate
and filled with all the mod cons of a hotel
twice the price. Look for it a few hundred
metres south of town.
oBP Samila Beach Hotel (%0 7444 0222; www
.bphotelsgroup.com; 8 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 1500B; ais)
DEEP SOUTH
A landmark in quaint Songkhla, the citys poshest address is actually a really good deal youd
pay nearly double for the same amenities on
the islands. The beachfront establishment offers large rooms with fridges, satellite TVs and
a choice of sea or mountain views (both are
pretty darn good). BP can arrange a caddie for
the neighbouring golf course.
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a & A r o u n d 731
732 YA L A P R O V I N C E Ya l a
YALA PROVINCE
pop 44,800
YALA
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pop 99,954
DEEP SOUTH
Buses to Hat Yai (150B, 2 hours) stop several time a day on Th Sirirot, outside the
Prudential TS Life office. Across the street is
the stop for other short- to medium-distance
buses north. Daily train destinations from
Yala include Bangkok (600B to 1700B) and
Sungai Kolok (3rd class 65B).
PATTANI PROVINCE
PATTANI
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Like a rebellious child that can never get
along with his stepmother, Pattani has never
quite adjusted to Thai rule. It was once the
heart and soul of a large Muslim principality
that included the nearby provinces of Yala
and Narathiwat. Although todays political
situation has stunted the areas development,
Pattani has a 500-year history of trading with
worlds most notorious imperial powerhouses.
The Portuguese established a trading post
here in 1516, the Japanese passed through in
1605, the Dutch in 1609, and the British flexed
their colonial muscle in 1612.
Sights
If it werent for the political unrest in the
region, Pattani could be one of the better
beach destinations in southern Thailand.
Unfortunately, exploring much of the area
independently is not a safe option at this time,
PAT TA N I P R O V I N C E Pa t t a n i 733
DEEP SOUTH
734 N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E N a r a t h i w a t
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
PATTANI
A
cha
C2
A2
B2
C2
6
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10
Pe
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1
13
11
Pip
it
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rang
Th N
To Yala
(40km)
DEEP SOUTH
THEPHA DISTRICT
12
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Th
Udo
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Th
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Th R
Soi T
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Th
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Th
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Pa
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Ma
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Na
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EATING
Satay Jao Kao.....................................7 C3
Clock
Tower
Th D
e
INFORMATION
Internet Cafe......................................1
Le Rich Travel.....................................2
Pattani Hospital..................................3
Police Station..................................... 4
1 km
0.5 miles
To Harbour
(2km)
TRANSPORT
Buses to Narathiwat...........................8
Buses to Yala......................................9
Minibuses to Hat Yai........................10
Minibuses to Narathiwat & Sungai
Kolok........................................... 11
Minibuses to Songkhla.....................12
Share Taxis to Yala...........................13
C2
C2
C2
C2
C2
C2
NARATHIWAT PROVINCE
NARATHIWAT
oikTb;kl
pop 44,200
N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E S u n g a i K o l o k 735
pop 40,500
Information
There are two immigration offices in Sungai
Kolok: one at the border ( % 0 7336 1414;
h5am-9pm) and a larger office (%0 7361 1231;
Th Charoenkhet; h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) across
from the Merlin Hotel. A tourist police office sits at the border. There are plenty of
banks with ATMs in town as well as foreignexchange booths, which are open during
border-crossing hours.
CS Internet (Th Asia 18; internet per hr 20B; h10am9pm) Across from the Genting Hotel.
Sleeping
If you must stay the night in Sungai Kolok,
theres a large assortment of hotels to choose
from most cater to the by-the-hour
clientele.
Genting Hotel (%0 7361 3231; 250 Th Asia 18; r 5501520B; as) Geared towards the conference
trade, the Genting comes equipped with a pub
and a karaoke lounge. There are some good,
only slightly scuffed, midrange rooms, and
its away from the seedier areas.
DEEP SOUTH
Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; www.airasia.com) operates one daily flight to and from Bangkok
(3800B, 11.10am or 11.35am).
Air-con buses to Bangkok and Phuket and
most minivans now leave from the bus terminal 2km south of town on Th Rangae Munka.
The buses to Phuket (530B, 12 hours) originate
in Sungai Kolok, pass Narathiwat three times
daily (7am, 9am and 6.30pm) and continue via
Pattani, Hat Yai, Songkhla, Trang, Krabi and
Pha-Ngan. Buses to Bangkok (VIP/1st/2nd
class 1295/833/669B) take at least 15 hours
and depart several times during the day.
Minivans heading to Hat Yai (150B, three
hours), Pattani (100B, 1 hours), Songkhla
(150B, two hours), Sungai Kolok (70B, one
hour) and Yala (100B, 1 hours) generally
leave on an hourly basis from 5am to 5pm.
Narathiwat is small enough to navigate by
foot, although motorcycle taxis only charge
SUNGAI KOLOK
l=ws'Fd]d
lonelyplanet.com
ISLAM IN THAILAND
DEEP SOUTH
TRAIN
Getting Around
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