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If I cut a
thread on the
end of the
shaft, I could
then mount
various nuts
on it, like this
knock down
nut with a
nice wide
circular
flange, so it already forms a round follower. You can buy
nuts like that at The Home Depot.
Or I could put
a hex nut on
the end of the
shaft and
grind that
round on my
bench
grinder. With
a bit of
sanding and
polishing, that
makes for a
fairly easily
sliding round
follower, and
it turned out
quite precise
too.
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1/2"
bearings
have
smaller
holes in
them, but
using the
same
technique
on the
bench
grinder I
was able
to grind
the shaft down so it fit in the bearing, though not tightly. But
some shims, cut from aluminium cans, made for a tight fit.
I found some
bushings that
fit snugly on
the 6 mm
shafts I was
using. I used
6 mm to
make it
compatible
with
Kuldeep's. I
used one
bushing as a follower directly and ground another one down
a little (again on the bench grinder) to fit the hole of a 26
mm bearing I had. Again, with a shim from an aluminium
can to make it fit snug. I also found one bushing that fit
perfectly between the 6 mm shaft and the 8 mm hole for
another bearing.
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You could also make your followers out of 1/4" bolts, which
already have threads on them. Combined with a nut with
integral washer, as shown, all you would have to do is glue
the nut on and cut off the bolt head to make a follower.
I started by
cutting a
slightly larger
circle from
Baltic birch
plywood on
the bandsaw.
The hole I
drilled is a bit
undersized
for the shaft. I
roughened up
the end of the
shaft and
used some
Gorilla glue in
the hole and shaft, then drove the shaft in with a hammer.
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After that, I
spun the disk
in a hand drill,
held up to my
disk sander
to make it
perfectly
round.
I'm guiding
the shaft with a piece of wood, near the end to make sure
it's steady. I ended up sanding that one down to just under
1", then applied some UHMW tape to it to bring it back up
to size and make it slide easier.
UHMW tape is also useful for up-sizing metal followers.
Each turn of UHMW tape adds 0.3 mm to the diameter of
the follower. Just be sure to have a whole number of turns
on the follower so the tape is the same thickness all
around.
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I set my table
saw to four
degrees, then
cut a bevel on a
piece of 18 mm
thick Baltic birch
plywood. 18 mm
is perhaps a bit
thick, but I
figured more
thickness is
better, and the
next thinnest Baltic birch plywood I had was 11 mm.
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But if you
haven't built a
pantorouter
yet, I'd
recommend
starting out
with just a
bearing on a
block and
leave these
fancy
followers for
a later upgrade. You probalby want to start using your
pantorouter as soon as possible, and mounting a bearing
on a block is much easier.
Also, if you attach the follower bearing on the block with a
countersink screw, if you back out the screw just a bit, the bearing can slide the same amount in all directions. So even with the "old"
method of making the followers, you can still effectively adjust the fit, making the tenon slightly smaller by loosening the bearing
mounting screw.
See also:
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Comparing pantorouters
Dave Tenney on
making tenon templates
Quickie workbench
using these templates
More about
the pantorouter
Pantorouter XL
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