The American

Marquetarian
Summer 2011
Quarterly Magazine of the American Marquetry Society
A non-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the art and craft of marquetry

Gallery

Box Top by John Seybold

See page 15 for story
House by Tom Main 15 X 12.5

Chest-of -Drawers Backsplash by Jim DAnjou 7 X 30

Below: three views of Dave Pecks "Where the Redwoods Grow:
Find Daves method of applying marquetry to a complex curve on page 10

The American Marquetarian

IN THIS ISSUE
AMS Information..4
Officers Comments3,5
Chapter News...6
Veneer Storage Ideas7
Letters to the Editors.8,9
Marquetry on a Complex Curve.10
GSMS Report - A New Tool..12
Making Brick Veneer.13
Guide Bushing Mystery Solved.14
Who Wouldnt Want a Third Hand?...15
Frame/Shelf Pattern17
Q & A.18
New Members18
Gallery2,19,20

On the Cover:
Memories of Grandeur by Hosie Main
Hosie has traveled the West since his first excursion back
in the 1930s and taken many photographs of barns and houses
since his retirement in 1974. He selects one of his house or
barn photos providing a pleasing angle and then enlarges it to
a traceable size (formerly on a copier and now on a scanner).
He then traces the photo on tracing paper making
modifications as he sees fit. The tracing is then resized to fit
with the foreground veneer natural color tone variations and
the pattern in the mountain and sky veneer. The mountains
are olive ash burl to provide height to the picture. Typically
he will mix and match barns, houses, windmills and outhouses
to make a pleasing composition. He saws the outline of the
buildings, windmill, and mountains with a bevel cut on his
old Delta scroll saw with a 2/0 blade; the roof of zebrawood,
siding slats of brown pine, and black walnut, window frames
of cherry, doors and windows of either Gabon ebony or dyed
ebony are cut later with an Exacto knife. To conserve wood,
he tapes the various woods together for the sawing just big
enough to cover their areas on the drawing with double sided
carpet tape which is then removed very carefully with a solvent
or lighter fluid using a chemists spatula after the pieces are
cut. Cracks are filled with wenge sawdust mixed with 30
minute epoxy prior to sanding after gluing the picture to the
backing board.
This particular barn was a photo in an Arizona newspaper
back in the late 1970s built by the Fuller family in the 1880s
located in Pine, Arizona. The house, windmill, and outhouse
are of his own design and sized to fit this composition. Hosie
has been fortunate to obtain pine beetle infested wood over
the years from several different sawmills here in the Black
Hills of South Dakota, which he has resawed on his table saw
Continued on page 9 - See On the Cover- Hosie Main

Presidents Message
By Ken Horner
Im always trying to make our monthly NorCal
Chapter marquetry meetings more interesting. We have
eight Tuesday night meetings per year and four Saturday
daytime meetings. The Saturday meetings are well
attended because its a non-work day for working members
and our far off associates can make them too some drive
two or more hours to get here. Also, on Saturday we always
have a theme oriented workshop or we invite an outside
professional to lead and teach. This attracts members to
the Saturday meetings.
Our attendance on a Saturday has averaged fifteen
over the last six Saturdays in 2010 and thus far in 2011.
Thats a nice number - just about right so everyone can have
a work space and were not crowded.
At our last Saturday meeting here in our Morgan
Hill shop, we invited Patrice Lejeune from southern
California to come and talk to us. Patrice works at the
French Marquetry School in San Diego and uses the upright
chevalet for marquetry. It was a great day and we had
sixteen members present.
Im working now to get an instructor for our next
Saturday meeting in July. Whoever we finally invite, it
will be a hands-on workshop. Then in October, well be
going up into the northern California hinterlands to Dave
Pecks environs for a weekend session on Applying
Marquetry to Curved Surfaces. We will turn a goblet and
then Dave will teach us how to make and then glue
marquetry to a rounded surface. We already have ten
members signed up and we may have to schedule a second
weekend. So our Saturday meetings are informative,
popular, well attended and a lot of fun.
However, I worry about the Tuesday evenings; how
to get more members to attend? We have thirty-five AMS
members in the northern California area and twenty-seven
have paid local dues. All the AMS members get our local
chapter newsletter via Internet. Weve had an average of
ten members at the last eight Tuesday night meetings
(where are the rest of the twenty-seven paid-up, local
chapter members?).
Our core group is highly motivated (really into
marquetry), interested in producing better material (love
the Show-and-Tell portion), congenial (sometimes I have
to pound the table so we can get started), and can give and
take constructive criticism (no prickly, easily offended
egos need apply). In general, they are fairly satisfied with
the way we are conducting our meetings (I do get
compliments on the quality, value and content of these
meetings).
Continued on page 5 - President's letter
3
Summer 2011

Vol. 15 No. 2

Chapters

Summer 2011

The American Marquetry Society, founded in 1997, is a nonprofit corporation devoted to advancing the art and craft of
marquetry.

California:
NorCal Marquetarians. Meets the fourth Sat. of each quarter
plus the 3rd Tue evening of each of the other months at the
Sawdust Shop in Sunnyvale, CA. Ken Horner, President, 9598
Officers & Board
Ruth Lane, Morgan Hill, CA 95037, Tel 408.463.9030, email:
President: Ken Horner, 9598 Ruth Lane, Morgan Hill, CA 95037, Klhorner2@yahoo.com. Ralph Porter, Board Member, 838
Tel: 408.463.9030, email: klhorner2@yahoo.com
Point Creek Ct., San Jose, CA, Tel: 408.926.0653, email:
porter838@gmail.com
Vice President: Jim Sweet,150 Holcombe Cove Road, Candler,
SouCal Marquetarians Meeting location: 3815 Utah St., San
NC 28715, Tel: 828.667.1505, email: jsweet1999@earthlink.net
Diego, Ca 92104 Meetings day and time to be announced.
Phone number for more information: 619.298.0864 President:
Editors: Joe & Chris Schnell, 1401 Claymore Dr., Garner, NC
W. Patrick Edwards, email: wpatrickedwards@gmail.com.
27529, Tel: 919.779.5237, email josephschnelljr@nc.rr.com
Board Member: to be announced.
Membership Officer: Dave Peck, 726 Road N, Redwood Vly.,
CA 95470, Tel. 707.485.7458, email: davejudypeck@comcast.net Carolinas: Carolinas Chapter. Meets 4 times a year at a place
To be announced. Robert DeHart, President, 149 Fox Hollow
Dr., Danville, VA 24541, Tel: 434.250.7462, email:
Treasurer: Gary Myers, P.O. Box 68428, Milwaukie, OR
rddehart@comcast.net. Julie Russell, Board Member, 49278
97268, Tel: 503.659.9261
Woodland Dr., Norwood, NC 28128, Tel: 704.474.4398
Assistant Treasurer: Gerald D. Laddusaw, 2104 S.E. 138th
Court, Vancouver, WA 98683, Tel: 360.256.9389, email:
gdladdusaw@msn.com

Colorado-Wyoming: WyColo Chapter Initial meeting was

held at the Woodcraft Store in Loveland, CO. Next meeting has
not been scheduled at press time. Contact Dave Kisker at
303.652.8929 or dave@wildviewstudios.com. You can also go
Pattern Librarian: Susan Jorgenson. 8025 W. 34th St., St. Louis to http:\\www.comarquetry.org for more information.
Park, MN 55426, sjnorski@comcast.net
Minnesota: Lakeland Chapter. Meets the 3rd Sat. of each
Q&A Editor: Larry Schmidt, 10830 NW Reeves, Portland, OR
month at the Bryant Community Center in Minneapolis, MN.
97229, Tel: 503.646.9410, email: schmidt2u@comcast.net
Jim Dalton, President 798 1st Ave. NW, Wells, MN 56097
Telephone: 507.553.3915 email:dalton@bevcomm.net
Exhibition Chairperson: Phillip Fine, 15 Capri Drive, Chestnut
New Jersey: Garden State Marquetry Society: Meets the first
Ridge, NY 10977 Tel: 845.352.1736
Sat. of each month, except July and August at the Monmouth
Board Chairperson: Julie Russell, 49278 Wood Land Dr., Nor- County Library, Manalapan, NJ, 9-12 noon. John Truskowski,
President and Board Member, 4370 Annadale Drive,
wood, NC 28128, Tel: 704.474.4398, email:
Schwenksville, PA 19473. Tel: 610.222.3829
russellja@hotmail.com

New York:
Webmaster: David Fifield 1085 Tasman Dr. Spc. 79 Sunnyvale,
The
Marquetry Artists of Rockland County. Barring holidays,
CA 94089 Tel: (408)744-1466 email:
holds
meetings every Tue. 10-12 noon at the Pearl River Library.
webmaster@AmericanMarquetrySociety.com
Joe Medler, President and Board Member, 15 Spruce Lane, West
Nyack, NY 10994. Tel: 845.623.9052. Cornelia Muller,
The American Marquetarian is published quarterly
Publicity, 19 Klein Ave., West Nyack, NY 10994. Tel:
by the American Marquetry Society (AMS) and is devoted to
distributing information about marquetry. Any contribution
845.358.3561
concerning marquetry will be considered for publication based on Upstate New York Chapter. Meets the 2nd Wed. each month,
available space. Send articles, tips, letters, photos and other
9 to 12 at Jewish Community Center. President and Board
contributions to: Joe Schnell, Editor, (see contact information
Member, H. Sheldon Koch, 7 Woodbury Place, Rochester, NY.
above). Note the publication schedule (page 16) for time
14618, Tel:585.381.4786, email: hskoch@juno.com
sensitive
material.
Oregon: Columbia River Marquetry Club. Meets first Sat. in
each month except July & Dec. at Cedar Mill Community
Annual membership rate is $25.00 for addresses in the United
Library, Portland, OR. Gerald D. Laddusaw, President, 2104 S.
States. For addresses in Canada or Mexico add $3.00 to cover
additional postage. All other overseas addresses add $5.00. All
E. 138th Court, Vancouver, WA 98683. Tel: 360.256.9389;
renewals are due in January. Membership application forms are
Frank Knighton, Board Member, 910 S.E. 283 Ave, Camas,
available from the Membership Officer. New members receive
WA 98607, Tel:360.834.2873, email fuzzyk@comcast.net
all magazines for that year. There is a $5.00 initiation fee for all
new members. Please mail your application (with payment) to the Washington : PugetSound Chapter. Dave Underwood,
Treasurer (contact information above).
President and Dennis Harrison, Board Member, deh2@uw.edu

The American Marquetarian

www.pugetsoundmarquetry.org
4

Presidents Letter

From the Chairman of the Board

Continued from page 3

So whats the problem? We meet for two hours and

sometimes there isnt enough to do. The Business portion
takes only a few minutes. Show-and-Tell lasts maybe thirty
minutes. What do we do for the remaining hour-and-a-half?
Perhaps have a teaching session? Except everyone
already knows how to do bevel cuts, make stack cuts, cut
thin strips for a border, do frame construction, glue, clamp
with screws or use a vacuum bag, and they know the best
finishes. Naturally there are nuances, short-cuts, and new
products that come up from time to time. These are
discussed but arent enough to fill a whole two hour meeting.
Then I had an idea. How about adding a critique
session to the meetings? This would use some of the excess
time and might be educational for both the old hands and
the novices. In this vein, for our meeting last Tuesday, I
asked members to bring in a piece (old or new, either
finished or not) so we could try critiquing. We had nine
members present and six brought in a piece. Everyone was
anxious to hear how the critique would work.
I explained some rules and we went through the
process for six pieces and then had an active discussion on
critiquing, what they liked and disliked, the good and the
bad. We decided to continue the practice with further
ground rules and refinements. Well have two more evening
sessions and Ill report back next issue on how they went
and what we learned.
Im interested in your experience or expectations along
these lines.
Keep cutting little pieces of wood.

Notes from the Editors:

As this goes to press, the heat is building in North
Carolina and summer is upon us. Hot weather means we
can stay in the air conditioning and cut veneer!
Chris and I would like to thank everyone who submitted
material for this issue. We are so pleased with the response
we received this quarter from old and new contributors
around the country. We usually have a hard time getting
pieces to publish, but we were both surprised with the
response we received from our request last issue, and the
quality of the material sent. We received material from the
membership that spanned all levels of experience, from
novice to expert. We hope it inspires everyone to continue
to send in articles, write-ups, photos, and tips for publication.
We still have hundreds of members that have not contributed,
so you are not off the hook - we need to hear from you!
The contribution Chris and I make to the society as editors
is completely reliant on your efforts. We have our regulars,
but I know there is an abundance of material and ideas just
waiting to make the pages of your magazine.

By Julie Russell
Notes From My Shop:
The weather is perfect, the birds are singing, and the
flowers are blooming (along with a few weeds). I have
completed cutting out two pictures of my own design.
Making my own designs has been a long time coming.
It is exciting to see the idea become a completed picture.
In keeping with my goal to use my own designs, I
ran into the problem of narrowing my choices. After
flailing around and jumping from one idea to another and
accomplishing absolutely nothing, I decided to pick a
subject and do a series. I picked large flowers in the style
of Georgia OKeefe. My first picture in the series is a
water lily. The inspiration came from several magazine
photographs from my picture file. I have been saving
photographs, magazine pictures, line drawings, etc. for
over fifty years. My second picture in the series is a large
sunflower. The design was inspired by a photograph sent
to me by a proud gardener.
Now that I have started the flower designs, the ideas
are flowing. If I can figure out how to scan and send
pictures to the editors, I plan to send in a couple of
completed pictures for the next issue. When I am ready
to change subjects, I think I will move on to lighthouses.

Please note the date after your name

on your mailing label.
This is your paid-through date.
As you will see, we have omitted the regular pattern of
the quarter feature to accommodate all the articles and
pictures you sent. Wed love to hear what you think about
that. Did you miss it? Do you ever use the pattern? Is it
something you look for? Do you have one youd like to
share? Let us know what you think about this.
The feedback we received from the holiday issue was
very positive so we would like to do another one this year..
Announcing our desire now should allow plenty of time to
submit a piece. A holiday piece for this request is
whatever is celebrated or admired by you, each member
(and by the way, you could have a fall theme in mind for
the next issue).
Thank you all again for your support, you have our
email IDs, so please tell us what you liked, didnt like, or
something you would like to see in a future issue.
Best wishes,
Joe and Chris

Summer 2011

Chapter News

Marquetarians of the Carolinas

Our March meeting was held at Herzog Veneers in the
morning and, after a lunch break, the meeting continued at
Sauers Veneers. This is a favorite meeting held each year.
We are treated to a wonderful selection of veneers especially
selected for us. The owners of both companies are very
helpful when we have any questions about wood and
finishing.
Most of our meeting time was spent discussing and
planning our participation at the Charlotte Woodworking
Show, where we were offered a booth allowing us to present
marquetry and our club to the woodworking public. We had
an excellent response to our booth with many people
requesting further information regarding our meetings. We
welcome all to attend our meetings and hoped to see many
in May.
We had 10 items for show and tell.

NorCal Chapter
We had three great meetings during this past quarter,
highlighted by a presentation by Patrice Lejeune in April.
We meet at both the Saw Dust Shop in Sunnyvale and at
Ken and Lindas place in Morgan Hill, depending on the
schedule.
Our March meeting was held at the Saw Dust shop. The
meeting opened with a lively discussion of several topics
including making handles for our new scalpels, getting new
blades, details of putting marquetry on curved surfaces
(member Dave Peck is the magician that has perfected this
bit of magic) and various other discussion topics between
members. All present concurred that these kinds of
discussions are one of the major reasons for belonging to,
and attending meetings of, our Nor Cal Chapter. Five
members brought completed projects for Show and Tell.
The April workshop meeting was held on a Saturday at
Ken and Lindas home with sixteen members in attendance.
After donuts and coffee, we held our Show-and-Tell session.
Eight members brought in projects to share with the rest of
us. The projects included a dresser backsplash with maple
branches and leaves inlay, beautifully turned pens, inlay
work on the curved surfaces of goblets, flower panels for
jewelry boxes, and two stunning ukuleles made by members
Dave and Bill.
The highlight of the meeting was the presentation by
Patrice Lejeune. He is from France and works with Patrick
Edwards at the American School of French Marquetry in
San Diego, Calif. Patrice gave a wonderful slide-show on
his time at the Ecole Boulle School in Paris. We learned
Marquetarians of the Carolinas at the Charlotte
quite a bit about the fusion technique and his desire for
Woodworking Show
experimentation. You are invited to visit his website at
www.patricelejeune.com to view his work and obtain a l to r: Jim Sweet, Robert DeHart; Bonnie Richardson
broader understanding of his techniques.
Our May meeting was held in Asheville at the Folk Art
The May meeting was back at the Saw Dust shop on Center. It was reported that the Charlotte Woodworking
Tuesday evening. The meeting was devoted to discussion Show had invited us back again next year. We discussed
regarding introduction of a critique session into our some things that would improve our presentation for the
regular meetings. Ken Horner set the stage with an example future show.
of his marquetry that had been judged at the 2008 AMS
We had several guests, some coming as a result of the
Marquetry show. Several members then volunteered their Woodworkers Show and some from the class at Brasstown
projects for analysis and suggestions by the others members. taught by our own Clyde Badger and Tom Pressley. We
We all agreed that this was a constructive and learning had our show and tell followed by an open discussion on
opportunity that we will work to incorporate in the future. any marquetry questions and suggestions.
Ken said he was going to delve deeper into this subject in By Beth Woody and Julie Russell
an article for a future issue.
WyColo Chapter:
We are very pleased that our chapter continues to grow
The organizational meeting for the WyColo Chapter was
in membership. We now have 36 AMS members located held on April 21 at the Woodcraft store in Loveland, CO.
in Northern California with 29 of those pay dues to our Nor We had an enthusiastic initial response with 11 attendees,
Cal Chapter.
who were all members of the AMS, although we hope to
By Bob Shultz
attract others as well. The draft Bylaws were reviewed and
The American Marquetarian

after considerable discussion, there were several suggested

modifications to be considered for review and the final
version will be passed at the next meeting, which has not
yet been scheduled. Officers were elected and are Dave
Kisker, President; Scott Roth, Vice President; Donna
Cunning, Secretary and Vicki Hennon, Treasurer.
One of the main initial focus points of the group is going to
be to find opportunities for exhibition of the groups work,
since there is significant interest in the commercial
opportunities for marquetry. Because of the length of
discussion, only a limited exhibit of members work was
reviewed, but its clear that we have some very talented
marquetarians in this region. More of their work can be
reviewed at the Colorado Marquetry Website,
http://www.comarquetry.org

a depiction of a wonderful trip she and her husband (recently

deceased) made to the Kruger National Park in Africa. The
trees are Sausage Trees, which bear huge fruits loved by the
monkeys. Margaret was rather fascinated by them as she
never saw such huge fruit on a tree.
Ralph Porter
To the Editors

Hi Joe and Chris:

Since you accepted my suggestion about publishing
some submitted ideas regarding storage and retrieval of
marquetry veneers, I guess I should make an attempt
to include the method that I use. First of all, I should
say that it is very imperfect and, while I have been using
it for many, many years, I would gladly switch to
another method that might be more effective and
efficient. So, here is a little description of my system,
Garden State Marquetry Society:
keyed to the
At the December meeting, John Graham presented a wide e n c l o s e d
array of woodworking tips and tricks. In January, officer photos:
elections resulted in the same slate of officers being elected.
Photo
1
shows
the
Then, in February, Frank Garcia demonstrated his style of
chip carving. He utilized the clubs camcorder along with a samples of part
self-made camera boom to project his presentation. Each of my veneer
collection,
meeting included a great variety of show and tell items from which
are
the members.
displayed in an
album designed
Chelmsford NorCal Twin Chapter
to file 35 mm
Photo 1
Marquetry life across the pond continues at a furious photo-graphic
rate. Our twin chapter Chelmsford has been busy these past slides. The number on each sample is keyed to an
alphabetical listing of the
few months. The Chelmsford Marquetry Group is one of
veneers in my collection.
the older groups formed in 1983 and boasts of being one of
The larger pieces of veneers
the largest groups in The Marquetry Society with some
are filed according to this
65-70 members. Their regular cutting meetings take place
alphabetically
assigned
number in horizontal storage
every Thursday evening from 7 p.m. to about 10 p.m. at
racks, one of which is shown
Writtle, Chelmsford.
in Photo 2. Small pieces are
Having hosted the very successful 2010 National
filed in hanging file folders,
Exhibition of The Marquetry Society, the group now has set
which are arranged by the
sights on creating a web site. They hope to have it go live
same numbering system, as
soon; well let you know when they do.
shown in Photo 3.
Most recently they had a show and critique of last year's
Essentially, I think this
method has two basic flaws
National Exhibition followed by a small celebratory buffet.
or weaknesses. First, it is not
From time to time they run these evening events so as to
necessarily easy or possible
critique the work done by other groups without any offense
to represent the full character
to the creators. They also find that these events help their
Photo 2
members get to know each other. Because
the royal wedding was the following day, of a veneer with a
they celebrated with a huge, multi-layered sample that is just a
chocolate biscuit cake (doesnt require couple of inches square.
baking) that is said to be a favorite of Second, retrieval of a
piece of veneer from
Prince William.
Margaret Bonnett has provided the horizontal storage
outstanding
interface
between rack is time consuming
since several different
Chelmsford and our NorCal groups. She
Photo 3
recently completed her Safari Fantasy, Continued on page 9 - see Robert Swanson
7

Summer 2011

Letters to the editors:

didnt
learn
t h a t
trick
until I
r e a d
t h e
inform
ation
t h a t
came
w i t h
m
y
A M S
k i t .
Luckily, I didnt notice any bleed. I gave it 9 coats of
Shellac Sanding Sealer and buffed it up with furniture polish.
I would like to ask my fellow AMS members and experts,
please dont look too closely at it; I am sure that you could
drive a bus through some of the joints.
Ernie Mills, Arizona

Hi Joe/Chris,
Im new to marquetry and I joined the AMS in March
2011. After buying and watching Peter Whites DVD
Geometric Marquetry, The Easy Way, I became inspired
enough to attempt some geometric marquetry or parquetry
as some prefer, and found everything pretty easy except
cutting out the small pieces. This needed a lot of care.
I live in Sun City West, AZ and belong to the wood
club where my friend Dave makes jewelry boxes. I jokingly
told him to learn marquetry, then he could make inlays for
his box tops. After some verbiage back and forth from each
of us, we decided to join forces. He would make a box, and
I would attempt to make my very first geometric inlay using
my recently gleaned knowledge from Peters DVD. The
photo shows the result, but please dont look too closely.
I really recommend Peters DVD. Questions welcome to
emills21@cox.net
After becoming
interested
in
marquetry,
I
joined
the
E n g l i s h Hey Joe and Chris,
M a r q u e t r y Attached are two photos of one of my last commissions. I
Society some 2 met this bloke in a pub in Darlington and got chatting, as
years ago and you do. He wanted to know if I could render an original
eagerly awaited design that his relation had done, in marquetry for a guitar.
the arrival of my We emailed details once I returned to Ipswich. The beauty
new member of this order was that it did not have to be mounted to a
package. Along baseboard, finished or packaged for shipment. Wouldn't
with
the mind more of this sort of order,
certificate
of Suzanne Marquess
membership, I received a pattern and a small number of Ipswich, UK
veneers. Excellent! I could get cracking immediately.
However, after playing around with it for quite some time,
I almost gave up. I just couldnt cut my veneers correctly.
Then I remembered that my old boss, who has been
practicing Marquetry since 1972, lived in San Diego. Sorry
Joe, but I must have plagued you week after week. Joes
perseverance slowly paid off, and things started to fall into
place. Not that my cutting was great, in fact it was downright
shabby, but I really started to enjoy the hobby. I didnt
realize it, but I had just passed over the main hurdle.
The Fishermans Harbour Scene must be very familiar
to many of you. I finished it using my own selection of
veneer, since the original veneer was long gone. I am really
proud of that first attempt, albeit a kit, and it now hangs on
our Arizona room wall.
I bought a Milwaukee sheet sander, and with great
dread, knowing that I had about .025 to work with, fitted
the sander with 180 grit paper and took the plunge. Perfect.
I was amazed. No sanding through, no edge rollover. I Above left: Guitar by Above right: Guitar Detail by
Suzanne Marquess
should have sealed the surface first to stop color bleed but Suzanne Marquess
The American Marquetarian
8

To the editors:
Continued from page 7 - Robert Swanson
I've been doing woodworking as a hobby for a few years, species must necessarily be stored on each shelf.
mostly cabinetry and general carpentry around the house and
Since you expressed an interest in random inputs or
garden. Last year I got the itch to do more artistic work on ideas that you might be able to use, I thought I'd throw
a smaller scale. I looked at what others are doing, turning, in the following:
When using a knife to do marquetry, most people
intarsa, inlay, etc. Then I saw pictures of marquetry. It's
seem
to turn to an X-Acto type knife and blade. A
one of the few times in my life when I knew this was the
surgical
scalpel, however, is much, much sharper and
thing I wanted to do.
finer
for
doing this kind of work.
I hesitated - it looked hard to do. I couldn't just look
A good cutting board to use when making long cuts
at a piece and figure out how it was done. I went on-line and in veneer is the back side of an acoustical panel. These
looked up how to do and I've got to say the information I got are the 2' x 2' or 2' x 4' panels used in suspended
was a bit daunting. I had none of the tools, never worked ceilings. These panels are relatively soft, so they are
with veneers, and have never worked at that level of precision. easy on your cutting instrument, they have no "grain",
Still, there was something in the photos I saw that so they dont interfere with the direction of your knife,
made me want to give it a try so I found the AMS and the and they can be used to support a lot of cuts before they
NorCal chapter. I contacted Ken Horner and quickly got an need to be (inexpensively)replaced.
When doing marquetry by the window method, I
invite to attend the next meeting, a training class for new
like to put a piece of masking tape on the veneer which
members. My first meeting was the Christmas party (always is being cut into the window. The tape makes it easy
join at a party - great way to talk to the members) and the to see where you have cut, so you don't miss any part
training class was scheduled for January.
of the intended cut line, and it also helps a lot in
A month before the class, Ken sent preventing the veneer from splintering during the
out a supply and tool list. On the cutting process.
day of the class he had a supply of Well, I think that's enough for now and I hope this is of
all the things he knew we'd forget some use to you. I really admire the work you are doing
to bring. Ken and Ralph lead the and I thank you sincerely. Best regards,
class and took us step by step Robert Swanson
Greeley, Colorado
through the double bevel method to
make the famous, "Moon,
Mountain, Tree."
Turns out, it's easier than I
thought it would be. The class
Heres a
started about 9:00 and by 3:00 I had cut and taped up my
photo of
piece ready for gluing. I took the piece home and glued it
Dave
down, sanded and applied a finish. It's not the best example
Pecks
of marquetry, but for my first effort I am happy I got it done.
veneer
Now I am starting on my second piece.
storage.
Andrew Reynolds

On the Cover, Hosie Main - continued from page 3

Coffee Break
and finished with his planer and sander to a workable thickness.
The
Best
Part of Marquetry
Using the table saw for resawing has limited the height of the
Charles Bingham has posted a video on the Yahoo group
sky and the brown foreground to about 6 inches each on most
called The Best Part of Marquetry at this web address:
pictures, thus a reason for the addition of the olive ash burl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqsua2Pbu7A
mountains giving the picture more height. This particular
Its fun to watch that first coat of finish make all our work
picture used brown oaklikely also infected by a fungus to bloom.
create the interesting color patternswas provided from a
There is a nice thread of marquetry information that is in
relatives sawmill in Texas. Despite the destructive nature of the Yahoo group called "Marquetry".....just go to Yahoo.com,
the pine beetle to the forests, a small beetles benefit is the select "groups" then search for "Marquetry," and then sign
creation of blue pine and brown pine from the fungus left in up. The group has distinguished marqueteers such as Dave and
the wood. Hosie calls this wood bugwood. He has won Ellen Kisker (AMS members from Colorado; have their own
several marquetry shows including one in Ipswitch, England studio), Jack Metcalfe (author of "Marquetry Course" which is
one of the best), and very well-known Quentin Smith from the
in 1984 with his blue pine sky pictures.
Marquetry Society of Great Britain. Enjoy!
Hosie at 97 is typically working in his shop every day.
9

Summer 2011

Marquetry on Complex Curve

By Dave Peck
The 25th Anniversary of the American Association of
Woodturners is coming up this summer and they will have
an Exhibit for AAW Chapters. Each Chapter may submit a
woodturning that best represents their chapter. Im a
member of the Redwood Empire Woodturners. Naturally I
wanted to incorporate marquetry and decided to depict a
redwood forest around a tall, cup-like turning as my entry
for the local contest (Fig. 1). I liked the appearance of a
nicely curved side rather than the
straight lines of a cylinder. This
left me with some worries.
Wrapping marquetry around a
cylinder or cone is relatively easy
using commercial thickness
veneers. However, try to wrap
veneer around a complex curve
and you can get wrinkles and
folds. This article is an
explanation of how I went about
eliminating the wrinkles and
Fig. 1
folds.
A bit of background a few years ago I helped Richard
Miller, a long time AMS member and an exceptional
woodworker, cover a dome with veneer. The secret he
found was to put the veneer on in narrow strips so that
they conform to the shape of the dome. The sequence in
which the strips were applied was also critical. First you
put on every other strip making them just a little wider
than needed. After
the glue dried go
back and tape on
the intervening
strip to fill the gap.
Cut through both
the new piece and
the previously
applied strips to
create a perfect fit.
(Fig. 2) Then glue
the final pieces.
Fig. 2

Fig. 3
vessel. You can see
the marks Ive made
for the recess but its
not cut in yet. Also
note that the top of
the marquetry will
be on an almost
cylindrical surface
Fig. 4
and the curve
increases as it
projects downward.
Fig. 5 shows what happened when I wrapped the
drawing around the vessel. The paper, as would the veneer,
stays in a cylinder.
Its at this small end
Fig. 5
where
wrinkles
would form if the
whole
marquetry
were applied at once.

Fig. 6

For convenience, I
cut the marquetry in
two parts (Fig. 7). I
ignored the tree trunks
at this point because
they would be inlaid
later. After cutting and
assembling
the
marquetry, I rubbed
glue into the back of
the marquetry and put
veneer tape on the face
of the marquetry to

I made a drawing of a redwood forest (Fig. 3) and found

that the tree trunks made natural dividing points just like
in making the dome project.
I had a vase already roughed out and dry that could be
converted for this project. Note in Fig. 4 that I have trued
up the outside of the turning but left the walls thick to
withstand pressures in clamping the marquetry onto the
The American Marquetarian
10

While I had the drawing

wrapped around the turning I
marked out where the pieces
would go. Note how each area is
numbered on the drawing (Fig. 3)
and by making registration marks
on the top edge of the recess I was
able to position the pieces quite
accurately (Fig. 6).

Fig. 7

hold it together while working with it. I cut out the was taken. The rope just fills in the hollow at the bottom
individual background parts, leaving some extra where the and allows for using less surgical tubing.
tree trunks would go.
I taped the top edge of
these pieces into the
recess and cut the
bottom to fit the
recess (Fig. 8).
Fig. 8
To attach these background pieces, I placed glue just down
Fig. 13
Fig. 12
the center (Fig. 9). (See Sidebar on Old Brown Glue). This
makes it a bit I cut the tree trunks to size using the drawing as a template,
Fig. 9
easier to inlay the taped
Fig. 14
them into place and cut around them into the
tree trunks, but if background to make them fit into the recess (Fig. 12 & 13).
the glue spreads
and the edges get
stuck down, its
I forced glue under the
no problem just
unglued edges and then used
more
like
compressed air to get it all the
inlaying
into
way back into the narrow
solid wood.
opening (Fig. 14). I worked on
2 to 4 sections at a time and
I stretched surgical tubing around and around with the soon all were completed.
lathe turning at about 12 rpm to clamp the marquetry in place
(Fig. 10). Hose clamps wouldnt work because of the
Two areas required special
compound curve and the surgical tubing seemed easier than handling. The area above the
a vacuum press. Note: I see non-sterile surgical tubing is mountain (marked 8 & 9 on Fig. 3)
available on Amazon.com. Also, Patrick Edwards told me was applied as a single section rather
about elastic bands used in the exercise and medical than as two sections. I felt, because
rehabilitation fields.
the top of the picture was on an
Fig. 10
These bands come in
almost cylindrical surface, it would
different widths and
work to just cut out a V (shown by a
strengths.
Brand
black area in Fig.15) where the dead
names include Rep
tree stump stood. The branches were
Bands,
Resist-Aalready sawn into the marquetry, and
Band and Therait was just a matter of inlaying the
Band and work
tree trunk, much like the others only
equally as well as
smaller and only shorter. It worked
surgical tubing.
out fine. Also note that the tree
Fig.15
trunks in section 10 extend up into the
Fig. 11 shows foliage of the trees, therefore you have to have half the
some of the foliage in one section and the other half in another section
Fig. 11
b a c k g r o u n d for these two trees. Also note that there was a tree trunk, that
pieces
glued didnt get numbered, connecting the ends of the drawing.
down. I used
After finishing the marquetry, I was a little nervous
paper tape on the hollowing out the inside but encountered no problems and
veneer faces and I was very happy with the finished piece. The members of
some of it had the Redwood Empire Woodturners selected this piece to
come off and represent the Chapter at the national symposium.
some
hadnt
when this picture Continued on page 16 - see Dave Peck
11
Summer 2011

New Tool - The Noden Inlay Razor

In Memoriam:
Alton Jensen, of San Jose, CA 1925-2011
Alton was an original member of the Nor Cal
Chapter and has been in the AMS since 1998. He
was an ardent wood worker and incorporated
marquetry into many of his works.
Raymond Gladden, Sr. Of Great Falls, SC
1927-2011 Raymond was an avid woodworker
and an authority on marquetry, having been a
long-time member and past president of the
Carolinas
Chapter
of
the
American
Marquetarians. He exhibited through the AMS
on the web site, demonstrated often at the
meetings of the Carolinas group, and was always
happy to share his knowledge about
woodworking.

Patrice Lejeune Visits NorCal Group

By Ralph Porter
For our NorCal Saturday workshop meeting on May 23,
2011, we were most fortunate to have Patrice Lejeune
(http://www.patricelejeune.com) join us for the day. Patrice
was able to provide excellent insights to European
woodworking training, and new techniques he is
experimenting with. Patrice is currently teaching marquetry
alongside Patrick Edwards at the American School of French
Marquetry.
He provided a presentation on the cole Boulle, an
advanced public school of fine arts and crafts and applied
arts in Paris, France (http://www.ecole-boulle.org) where he
personally had trained. He had hundreds of pictures on the
school itself, as well as many of the projects created by the
students attending the school. It was particularly interesting
to see that Europe puts much more effort into promoting the
arts and crafts than the USA does. We all actually learned
quite a bit about the piercing and fusion techniques, as well
as the use of hide glue.
Patrices experiences expanded our knowledge of new
marquetry techniques quite a bit, and he inspired all of us to
think a lot more about including the techniques in some of
our work in the near future.
Personally, I really appreciated his sense of doing
different things and techniques, just experimenting. We
keep hearing from our own members that we just get in that
rut of, "oh, no! --- moon/mt/tree!!!! Maybe we should try
an abstract moon/mountain/tree incorporating fusion and
dyes.
The American Marquetarian

12

John Truskowski GSMS

At the September meeting of the Garden State
Marquetry Society, Geoffrey Noden, inventor of the
Noden Inlay Razor, demonstrated the new inlay razor tool.
Some say, "necessity is the mother of invention." Geoffrey
Noden, a professional woodworker, had a commission to
produce 10 chairs using different inlay designs. Out of
this challenge came the Noden Inlay Razor.
Since the demonstration, a number of GSMS members
have used Noden's Inlay Razor. All report positive results.
The Inlay Razor will NOT replace the fret saw, scroll saw
or Exacto knife. Its primary use is to embellish marquetry
projects. Many unusual and beautiful effects can be
obtained through the creativity of the marquetarian. The
Noden technique has given the marquetarian unlimited
repeatability and unlimited design options.
The Inlay razor is easy to use and makes it possible to
produce professional quality designs. Initially, the Razor
comes in a kit with both written instructions and a DVD.
It also includes 4 pre-made cutting blocks and tweezers.
An advantage of the razor is the ability to produce unique
designs using self made cutters and wafers. Both domestic
and exotic woods can be used efficiently since end grain
pieces are used. This also makes it easier to dye woods.
Four cutters come with the Inlay Razor Kit. Both
cutters and wafers are easily made. The cutters are made
using double edge razor blades. Initially the process of
making wafers and cutters seemed daunting. However,
after some set-up time and practice, it became fairly easy
to make these items. Cutting blocks will be available for
purchase through Noden's furniture design in the future.
In conclusion, several members of the GSMS felt the
Noden Inlay Razor to be a useful tool for individuals doing
marquetry and for woodturners. For additional info visit
www.inlayrazor.com or call 609-882-3300. Noden's
Furniture Design is based in Trenton, NJ.

German Farmhouse Marquetry Picture

By George Lug
This marquetry picture is based on a 5 x 7 photo
of an old German farmhouse. When my friend first
showed me his family farmhouse photograph to
possibly use for a marquetry picture, I was hesitant. It
just looked too difficult and I was unsure that I could
use it for a pattern. Yet, I decided to give it a try. I
researched some farmhouse structures in Germany via
the internet and my interest soon peaked. It was very
different from a typical farmhouse structure in the
United States. The bones of the structure appear more
like a barn made of post and beam construction than
those of a country farmhouse. On the lower level it
had brick and mortar walls filling the space between the
posts and arched doorways. The upper part of the
structure had the more typical wood siding and a roof

a couple days to dry, I removed the contact paper carefully - and I actually had a stable sheet of brick
veneer ready to use. I didn't know how well the veneer
would actually turn out until the marquetry picture was
completely cut out, mounted to a substrate, sanded and
finished. It worked!
The picture was completed using the typical 12.5
degree bevel method on a scroll saw and edge-gluing
each piece of veneer. And as every marquetarian knows,
the finishing process took longer than creating the
picture itself. All in all, I was very satisfied with the
result and so was my friend to whom I presented the
picture.

made with a European traditional red-clay tile.

Making this picture was going to be a challenge
not so much because the photograph shows the
farmhouse to be in a dilapidated condition, but primarily
because of its brick and mortar structure. How does
one make wood veneer look like brick? In order to
maintain the integrity and presentation of the structure,
I needed to find a way to represent brickwork for the
front of the structure in the foreground the part that is
close and up where the eye expects to see the most detail.
I decided to make a small sheet of brick veneer
to use. This is not something I had attempted before.
Ultimately, I cut narrow strips of three different colored
veneers and from those cut small lengths to represent
bricks (the bricks needed to be sized differently or the
brick wall would look too uniform which was not the
case for this aged structure). The bricks were randomly
mixed then stuck one by one, using a tweezer, onto a
sheet of vinyl contact paper. For mortar, a wood-filler
mixture was applied over the bricks. After allowing
13

Summer 2011

GUIDE BUSHING MYSTERY SOLVED

By Bob Shultz
Have you ever worked on a marquetry project that you
planned to inlay into another larger piece of wood? Of
course, this plan involves excavating a cavity in the larger
wood piece and cutting the marquetry piece so that they fit
together appropriately. You can only imagine my horror
when, after working for months on the tabletop poinsettia
marquetry piece pictured, I cut it too small for the cavity.

How did I make such a grave error after being very

careful with my project that had taken me so long to create?
That is the answer to the mystery and it has to do with the
type of template. The vast majority of projects that use a
router bushing will employ an inside template. However,
when the cavity is quite large, as in my 18x24 poinsettia
inlay, it may be impractical to use an inside template that
surrounds the area to be excavated. Instead, an outside
template would be used since it overlays the area to be
excavated and the router bushing goes around the outside
perimeter. As you can imagine, this type of template has
not been addressed at all by those giving directions on how
to calculate offset. The formula is different. Instead of
subtracting the router bit diameter from the bushing diameter,
it is added to calculate the offset for the cavity to be
excavated. The formulas below show how the offset is to
be calculated for each template type.
I have created two tables showing the offset for various
bushings when using a 1/8 inch diameter router bit. It is
easily discovered which bushing combinations will create
the same offset if you want the inlay to fit exactly into the
cavity. Additionally, it is possible to determine the bushing
combination if a slight gap is desired to accommodate a
border that will be applied to the inlay after it has been cut.
For example, using an inside template with a 1/2bushing
for the cavity and a 5/16 bushing for the inlay will create
a 1/32 offset gap for the border. This is the method I used
for the small inlays in the picture of the coat rack base.
I would suggest that you prepare tables, as I have done,
for each template type and router bit diameter that you will

The border may look decorative in this picture, but it is

actually wood filler that was used to cover up for my mistake.
I was certainly baffled as to how I had made such a
mistake when I had so carefully followed the directions for
calculation of bushing offset. The purpose of this article is
to explain how I made my error and to give you the
information to prevent you from doing the same.
Router guide bushings are very handy tools for
following a pattern that you have created. The most
important thing to remember about using bushings is the
offset the distance between the cutting edge of the router
bit and the outside edge of the bushing. Typically, offset
will be calculated for using an inside template such as
might be required for routing out a mortise or slot holes for
joinery. The bushing rides against the inside edge of the
template and the cavity created is smaller than the
template due to offset.
Our requirements for marquetry take us one step further
in this process. We need to also cut the marquetry piece,
using the same template, to a size that fits into the cavity
appropriately. Obviously the same bushing is not going to be using so that you can easily avoid a potential disaster
work. For an inside template, the bushing needs to be when you are doing this type of project.
smaller in order to compensate for the diameter of the router
bit. This is pretty straight forward and we probably have all
done it successfully.
Continued on page 19 - See Guide Bushing Mystery
The American Marquetarian

14

feature is the pair of blue cam clamps. My first version

of this jig used star knobs, but I got tired of spinning them
by John Seybold
up and down to clamp my veneer. I bought these cam
clamps at Rockler for about seven dollars for the pair.
I'm a big fan of bookmatches, geometric designs, and They raise and lower the ruler by about a quarter of an
fancy borders, but to do them right you have to be able to inch, which is just enough clearance for a couple of pieces
cut pieces to exact size and shape. In the box top shown of veneer. They engage and disengage instantly, and you
here, for example, my background is a 4-way bookmatch, can check your alignment, slightly open one side, tap the
surrounded by an eight-piece bias-cut border. I also had ruler over, and clamp again to make the finest of
adjustments. You wouldn't think it from looking at them,
but these clamps can generate immense force. I have them
backed off so that it takes only a light press from a
fingertip to push them down into the locked position; even
so, the ruler and the veneer underneath are held
immovably against the cutting mat. There's another subtle
benefit. You can hold the ruler down exactly where you
want it with both hands, and then just reach up with one
finger or your thumb and close the clamp. It makes it
much easier to get the precise positioning you want.
Another nice touch is the cutting mat with a grid marked
on it.
Who Wouldn't Want a Third Hand?

See page 2 for a color photo of Johns box

to cut this panel to a precise size (within a few thousands

of an inch) to fit flush with the edges of the box. Cutting
all the straight lines on a piece like this can be quite
difficult - any deviation from perfect straightness and
squareness jumps out. I wanted to make sure that the
joints where the bias-cut border pieces met in the middle
lined up perfectly with the bookmatch seams, and of
course those butt joints had to close with no gaps. Sizing
the panel exactly added to the challenge - it was important
to me that the mitered corners of the border line up
perfectly with the mitered corners of the box, and that in
turn meant that I had to cut the center background panel
perfectly square and to an exact size, and then cut the
border strips to an exact width.
I'm pretty sure I would have botched this job without
a simple but specialized cutting jig that let me make all
these straight cuts safely and accurately. I've made a
couple of these now, improving them each time, and
somewhere along the way the jig has become an
indispensable tool for me. I use it like the vise on my
bench, as a steady, strong, and injury-proof third hand to
hold my work. It's a pretty simple arrangement: a flat
cutting surface, a reinforced clamping bar (in this case a
section of ruler), hold-downs on the sides, and a fence to
register your piece for straight cuts. But it's the details
that make the difference, and in this version, the critical

I originally made this jig to cut the border strips for the
box. The technique is simple: slide your veneer flush
against the fence, sandwich a spacer strip of the desired
width between the ruler and the fence, clamp, remove the
spacer, and cut your veneer. It's accurate, repeatable, and
pretty much idiot-proof. The speed and convenience of
the cam clamping action, though, quickly made me see
other uses. Squaring an edge to a bookmatched seam is
a snap. Put the ruler over the piece, use a small seethrough drafting square to line it up with the seam, clamp,
and cut. Cutting the bookmatch is easy too: cut the
reference edge on your first piece and set it aside. Take
the matching piece, tape it down to the mat, line up the
first piece so your veneer is perfectly symmetrical about
the reference edge, slide the ruler up flush with the edge,

15

Summer 2011

clamp, and cut. How about making mitered cuts on your

border? Take your two border pieces, position the ruler
over the keeper side of the top piece, line it up to 45
degrees, clamp, and cut.
Once you start making straight cuts like this, you'll never
go back to holding a straightedge (except, perhaps, if you
want to cut a piece bigger than you can fit on the jig). It's
much more accurate, because you get to clamp it down,
check your alignment at leisure, and then cut. If you're
working with fragile burls, the even pressure along the
straightedge reduces the risk of tearout. And, finally,
there's no chance of slicing off your finger tip or wrecking

glue it along the top edge of your board. Cut an 18"

section of wide aluminum ruler (which won't wreck a
blade if you happen to run into it) to act as your cutting
guide. You can find some brands that have a shallow
channel running down the center of the underside - these
work particularly well, since the channel concentrates the
clamping force along the edge of the ruler. Stiffen it with
a piece of stout hardwood or, as I did here, a piece of 3/8"
x 3/4" aluminum bar stock. If you use wood, you might
want to take a few shavings off each end to give it a slight
curve and spread the pressure evenly across the whole
length of the bar; I found that the aluminum bar stock was
stiff enough that it worked as-is. I just attached the
reinforcing bar to the ruler with double-sided tape. Make
the bar stick out an inch or so on each side and drill holes
for the toilet bolts. You'll want to drill the holes oversize
so that you have some freedom to angle the ruler a bit this
way or that as you slide it up and down. Put it all together,
adjust your cam clamps, and start cutting!
Continued from page 10 - Dave Peck

Sidebar Old Brown Glue

Ive been looking for glue with superior strength for
adhering marquetry to a curved surface such as a
woodturning and think Ive found a winner in Old Brown
Glue. It is hide (or animal protein) glue with a longer open
time than most PVA glues. It requires you to heat the glue
before use but putting the glue bottle in a pan of hot water
easily does that. The glue viscosity is best between 100-140
your nearly-finished masterpiece because your degrees F. Unlike PVA, you apply glue to both the veneer
and the substrate. Clamp and allow to set for 12 to 24 hours.
straightedge slipped. And sometimes, it's nice to be able
Cleanup is with cold water. Its nontoxic. One drawback
to clamp a piece of veneer to stop it sliding around while
is that it has a shelf life of only 6 months (extendable to 1
you line up an image for tracing. As I say, it's nice to have year with refrigeration). It comes in 20 oz and 5 oz bottles
that third hand.
the smaller size is what most casual marquetarians will
Construction is straightforward. I find a 12"x18" cutting want. I found it easy to use and plan to make it my go-to
surface to be about right, but you could make a larger or glue.
smaller version to fit your needs. Square up a piece of Dave Peck
high quality 3/4" Finnish birch plywood (MDF would To order or for more information about Old Brown Glue
probably work too) a couple of inches wider, and about visit oldbrownglue.com on the Internet or write to Antique
4 inches deeper than your cutting surface. Route two 5/16" Refinishers, Inc. 3815 Utah Street, San Diego, CA 92104.
slots down the sides. Flip the board over, and keeping the
same fence setting, route a shallow 1/2" groove to widen Editor's note: See page 2 for color photo of Daves vase
the back side of each slot. You'll use toilet bolts with the
cam clamps; make the groove just a little deeper than the
Magazine Schedule
bolt heads so they can slide freely. Plane a piece of hard
maple or other dense, stable hardwood so it's perfectly
Deadline
Mailed by
Issue
straight and about 3/8" thick (you want it to be about an
Fall
Aug 20
Sept 14
1/8" taller than your cutting mat and thickest veneer stack;
Winter
Nov
20
Dec 14
too tall and it will get in the way when cutting narrow
Spring
Feb 20
March 14
strips) and 3/4" wide. This is your fence for strip cutting;
Summer
May 20
June 14
The American Marquetarian

16

Frame / Shelf
By Terry Hayes
This frame /shelf will let you
showcase your pictures and nickknacks or other hobbies.
The key to this frame/shelf is
the sides. Once you have the
sides made, you can then control
the width, with the shelf and the
brace across the back.
The sides can be as long as
your biggest picture and for
shorter pictures you just remove
what is needed off the top.
The groove width for the
shelf is 3/4". This is the width
of standard 1" dimensional
lumber. The depth should be 3/8".
The shelf you see here is 1" x 8."
The groove width for the
sides should be a little bigger
than what you use to mount your
pictures. Example, if you use 1/2"
plywood to mount your work
then the groove width should be
9/16". The groove depth should
be from 1/8" to 3/8" - I used 3/8."
The support bar across the
back is 1-1/8" wide X 1/4" thick,
but any size would work.

17

Summer 2011

New Members
You may wish to welcome new members
who live nearby. If you know of someone
who wants to join the AMS, contact Dave
Peck (address on page 4) for an
invitation to join brochure.
Bill Colburn
61 Arbor Dr.
Waynesville, NC 28786
828-280-6795

Paul Rappold
55 Cliff Rd East
Wading River, NY 11792
631-929-0522

Peter White
10 The Russets,
Meopham
Gravesend, Kent DA13
0HH
United Kingdom
peterwhite@waitrose.com

David A. Roth
11233 W. 117th St
Overland Park, KS 66210
913-338-2433
chefroth@everestkc.net

Donald J. Kraus
4920 Crestwood Lane
Syracuse, NY 13215
315-488-2233
donkraus@aol.com
Marian Bruney
5700 Drummond Way
Naples, FL 34119-9510
Carl R. Cacioppo
612 King James Court
Bear, DE 19901
302-832-2127
ccacioppoj@aol.com
Rick Elbanna
P.O. Box 484
Milltown, NJ 08850
732-887-5695
rick@ricardocapelli-com
Lynne Buss
21070 Capella Dr.
Monument, CO 80132
719-488-0434
lynne@lynnebuss.com

Beth Woody
109 Elmer Road
Hillsborough, NC 27278
919-245-1109
marquetryartist@gmail.
com

If you have questions or tips, please send to :

Larry Schmidt
10830 NW Reeves Street
Portland, OR 97229-5129
Email:schmidt2u@comcast.net
Q: After my picture is glued up and sanded, I
sometimes find a piece that is too light in color or
too dark. How can this be fixed at this stage of the
picture?

A: This can be a problem but the solotion is easy

to solve. If the piece is too light or off color, use a
small brush and apply stain of the desired color on
Wes Highfill
the piece, then proceed to finish picture. If the
1526 Britton Circle
piece is too dark, use of small brush and apply a
Bellingham, WA 98226
wes@highfillcustomwood small amount of wood bleach to area until the lighter color is reached. Household bleach will also
works.com
work. Sand lightly and apply finish.
Ed McDonald
Lower Knockenrahan
Arklon, Co. Wicklow
Ireland
0035340239421

TIP OF THE MONTH:

If you knife cut pieces and the edge is a little rough,
use a fingernail file or emery board to smooth.

Ernest Mills
16007 W. Falcon Ridge
Dr
Sun City West, AZ 85375
623-242-9668
emills21@cox.net
Rodger Rozendaal
7501 135th Ave SE
Newcastle, WA 98059
rurozendaal@gmail.com

The American Marquetarian

18

Changing your address?

If there is an error or missing
information on your address label or in
the membership listing, or if you move,
either permanently or temporarily,
send a notification to
Dave Peck, the Membership Officer

Continued from page 14 - Guide Bushing Mystery

Gallery

Inside Template Offset

Cavity (Bushing OD - Router Bit OD) / 2
Inlay (Bushing OD + Router Bit OD) / 2
Outside Template Offset
Cavity (Bushing OD + Router Bit OD) / 2
Inlay (Bushing OD - Router Bit OD) / 2

Bushing OD
3/4
5/8
1/2
7/16
3/8
5/16

Bushing OD
3/4
5/8
1/2
7/16
3/8
5/16

INSIDE TEMPLATE
1/8 " Router Bit
Cavity Offset , 1/32" Inlay Offset, 1/32"
10
8
6
5
4
3

14
12
10
9
8
7

Joy by
Dennis
Harrison
Joy has
dyed gray
bird's eye
maple with
a black
gown and
dyed
flowers

OUTSIDE TEMPLATE
1/8 " Router Bit
Cavity Offset , 1/32" Inlay Offset, 1/32"
14
12
10
9
8
7

10
8
6
5
4
3

Guide Bushing Examples

1. We have a 1/8 router bit and want a perfect fit
for the inlay. We will use an inside template. All
numbers come from the tables above:
Choose the bushing for the cavity with a 10/32
offset.
Choose the bushing for the inset because it also
has a 10/32 offset. In this case, a perfect fit.
2. In the example above we want a 1/16 space
around the inset for a border.
Choose the bushing for the cavity (6/32 offset).
Choose the 3/8 bushing for the inset (8/32 offset).
The difference is 2/32 (8 minus 6) or 1/16.

Canadian Rockies by Bonnie Richardson

13 X 11

19

Summer 2011

Above:"Teeka" by Del Porter

Teeka is an Italian Greyhound. Sometimes called
miniature greyhounds, they weigh 15-18 pounds.
This picture is from a photograph.

Above and Right: Robert Fontana created a box

with these six images on the sides, cover and
inside cover. Pictures include the Great Wall
(Mutanyu), Gui Lin, Hong Kong harbor, Fu Zhou
temple, an Imperial Dragon and some random
temple.
The American Marquetarian

20

Summer 2011