Sibenik

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
IBENIK
Summer 2013
Camping is
funtastic
Toasted marshamellows,
pitching tents, lush green
terrain
N3 - complimentary copy
sibenik.inyourpocket.com
Festival fever hits

ibenik
Sing, watch, dance...
CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in ibenik
Your first view of the city
The Basics
Basic tips
History
Kings and Queens
Culture & Events
Whats on, in and around town
Camping in Croatia
16
Experience a night under the twinkling stars
Where to stay
19
Wherewer you lay your heat
Local Flavour
24
ibeniks best traditional goodies
ibenik International Childrens Festival is an event with

activities aplenty for parents and kids, and locals and
tourists alike.
Dining & Nightlife

Restaurants
Feast your senses
Cafes
Sipping Mediterranean style
Nightlife
Because youre just so groovy
26
32
33
Sightseeing
What to see
Eyes front!
36
Leisure
42
Sailing or Scuba diving
Getting Around
44
Save on slave leather
Directory
Shopping
Perfect gifts and souvenirs
Directory
46
48
ibenik Knin County
49
Save on slave leather
Maps & Index
Figs are not just yummy, they also happen to be rich in

minerals and vitamines.
County map
City centre map
Street registre
City map
Country map
63
64
64
66
67
Summer 2013
FOREWORD
If you happen to find yourselves in the ibenik
area this summer, youre in for a treat. The city
itself is a wonderful maze of atmospheric alleys
filled with ancient cottages, topped off with Juraj
Dalmatinacs fabulous cathedral, a UNESCO site.
The surrounding area encompasses masses of
pristine islands, perfect for the escapists among
you, and the refreshing green splash of the Krka
National Park. And the dry rocky hinterland hides its
share of treasures.
Festival junkies will also come to theirs as it seems
ibenik hits festival fever. Musical festivals of all
genres: jazz, classic, chanson, pop, indie, rock...
will knock your socks or should we say flip flops
off. Kids and adults alike can bedazzled at the
Supertoon festival and of course the traditional
locals favorite, International Childrens festival. You
will have to make some grueling choices. That we
vow!
And for those of you who are more into discovering
insider secrets, check out our article about the
traditional goodies and where to enjoy them.
Either way, there is no excuse for boredom!
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
ibenik In Your Pocket

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Croatia
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ARRIVING IN IBENIK
BASICS
Customs
Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no
longer custom limits between member states or tax return.
Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and
we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
Disabled travellers
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there
is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have
at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping
centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do
new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one
can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access
to most buildings. If youre planning to visit, we suggest you
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your
arrival as accessible as possible.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Money
ibenik Tourist Board Archives
By bus
By train
ibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a

5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5
express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey
time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagrebto-ibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar
or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from
145kn to 164kn one way. ibenik also lies on the route of
many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in
the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south - so arriving
here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.
ibenik Coach Station G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-)
060 36 83 68.
Getting from Zagreb to ibenik by train takes about nine

hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change
trains. ibenik train station is about ten minutes walk west
of the Old Town.
ibenik Train Station L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel.
(+385-22) 33 36 99.
By car
From Zagreb: ibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian
capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and
highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the
bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way
through the dramatic Velebit mountains, youre in for an
exhilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway,
and the Zagreb-ibenik stretch will set you back about 154kn
(car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way.
From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: ibenik is on
Croatias main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from
Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is
a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most
beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it
can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it
might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway
for a stretch or two.
By plane
Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar
(50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar
airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get
an onward service to ibenik. Journey times to ibenik from
Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from
Split expect around 1hr 50min.
Tourist information
The local tourist association offices listed in this guide
can help you out with a whole lot of information about
individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should
mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic,
so you might want to check on their Web sites or give
them a call before trekking over.
Tourist Information Centre E-2, Obala Dr. Franje
Tumana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21
44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@si.t-com.hr, www.sibeniktourism.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31
Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00. October 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
ibenik Tourist Board C-1, Fausta Vrania 18,
tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, tz-sibenik@si.t-com.hr,
www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
ibenik Knin County Tourist Board D-2, Fra
Nikole Ruia bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, info@
sibenikregion.com, www.sibenikregion.com. QOpen
07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
There are plenty of exchange offices around ibenik, as well

as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafs accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If youre planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think youll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Roads
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving
licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard
laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no
mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level
for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban
areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on
secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say,
leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
ulica
stube
put
prolaz
trg
most
avenija
cesta
street
staircase
way
passage
square
bridge
avenue
road
Smoking
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcaf culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors,
it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking
establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law
amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking
permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public
spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy
to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if
youre prepared to move inside.
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Toilets
There are two public toilets in ibenik. One is by the theatre,
its open all year round 07:00 - 21:00, costs 4kn, and is a
bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James
Cathedral, its open only during the summer months, again
07:00 - 21:00, price 4kn.
When things go wrong

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of ibenik significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europes wide
Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police,
ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district,
in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested,
you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case,
contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for
ER is located in Karla Vipauca 8 (L-2/3) where everything
necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK
road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on
the sea call 195.
National holidays
January 1
January 6
March 31
April 1
May 1
May 30
June 22
June 25
August 5
Association of Tourist Guides Mihovil

ibenik www.vodici-sibenik.hr.
Public Institute of Krka National Park D-2, Trg
August 15
October 8
November 1
December 25
December 26
Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.

hr, www.npkrka.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Street smarts
New Years Day

Epiphany
Easter
Easter Monday
International Workers' Day
Corpus Christi
Anti Fascist Resistance Day
Statehood Day
Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
Independence Day
All Saints Day
Christmas
Saint Stephens Day
Summer 2013
HISTORY
7th century AD The area around ibenik is settled by
Croats.
9th century Croats build a fortress overlooking the sea,
proof that ibenik is becoming an important port.
1066 The town of ibenik is mentioned in a proclamation
by King Petar Kreimir, its first ever mention in official
documents
12th century A thriving settlement increasingly takes
shape below the fortress.
1080 The fortress town of Knin, inland from ibenik,
becomes capital of the Croatian state under King Zvonimir.
1102 Croatias monarch dies childless, and the crown falls
to the king of Hungary. ibenik continues to flourish in the
Hungaro-Croatian state.
1116 ibenik is all but destroyed by a Venetian siege. It
is re-founded ten years later by refugees from Biograd,
also sacked by the Venetians.
1298 Pope Boniface VIII declares ibenik a town with the
right to its own bishopric.
1409-1412 A three-year Venetian siege culminates with
ibeniks subjection to the rule of Venice.
1431 Work begins on a new cathedral, culminating in
one of the greatest works of ecclesiastical architecture
in the Adriatic.
1468 Ottoman Turks advance towards the ibenik coast,
remaining a constant threat for the next two centuries.
1511 An anti-aristocratic revolt led by Juraj Proki takes
over the city, only to be ruthlessly put down by the Venetians the following year.
1522 The towns of Knin and Skradin fall to the Ottoman
Turks.
1571 ibenik contributes a galley to the Venetian fleet at
the Battle of Lepanto.
1615 ibenik-born Renaissance-man Faust Vrani publishes his book of inventions Machinae Novae.
1645-1669 Central Dalmatia becomes a major front in
the so-called Cretan War, a continent-straddling struggle
between Venetians and Ottomans.
1647 An Ottoman attack on ibenik is repulsed by troops
under Baron von Degenfeld.
1649 Plague puts paid to three quarters of the citys
population.
1688 Knin is captured from the Ottomans by Venetian
forces, with many local Croats serving in their ranks.
1699 The Peace of Sremski Karlovci confirms Venetian
gains, bringing a greater measure of security to the
ibenik region.
1752 The powder store in St Michaels Fortress is struck
by lightning, creating a huge explosion.
CULTURE & EVENTS

1797 The Venetian Republic collapses, and ibenik recognizes the rule of Austrian Emperor Francis II.
1802 The birth of Nikola Tommaseo, the Italian-language
writer who collects Dalmatian folk songs.
1806-1813 ibenik forms part of the French-ruled Illyrian
Provinces. With the defeat of Napoleon ibenik returns to
Austrian control.
1873 The Peoples Party under Ante upuk wins municipal
elections. Croatian replaces Italian as the principal language of instruction in ibeniks schools.
1895 Thanks to ambitious mayor upuk, who builds a
power station on the river Krka, ibenik is one of the first
towns in Europe to get an electricity supply.
1918-1920 Italian troops occupy ibenik, until forced
to leave by the terms of the Rapallo Treaty. ibenik subsequently forms part of the newly-created Kingdom of
Slovenes, Croats and Serbs (later renamed Yugoslavia).
1925 ibenik is connected to the rest of Croatia by railway.
1941-1944 ibenik is occupied first by Italians then
Germans. ibenik is liberated by the First Dalmatian
Partisan Brigade.
1945 Croatia becomes a federal republic in a communistcontrolled Yugoslavia.
1948 Stalin ejects Yugoslavia from the comintern bloc.
1950s-1960s Croatias Adriatic coast becomes a major
European tourist destination.
1958 The first ever ibenik Childrens Festival is held.
1972 Hollywood actor Goran Vinji is born in ibenik
1979 Fifteen-year-old basketball player Draen Petrovi
makes his debut for local team ibenka. Petrovi goes on
to win the European Player of the Year award six times
before suffering a fatal car crash in 1993.
1980 Yugoslavias long-serving President Tito dies. A slow
process of political disintegration sets in.
1990 Croatia holds its first free elections.
1991 Croatia declares its independence from Yugoslavia.
1991 Aided by the Yugoslav Peoples Army, Serbian forces
take control of the region around Knin, placing ibenik on
the front line of the conflict.
1995 Croatian military victories bring the conflict to a
close.
2000 Croatias post-independence tourism boom gets
into full swing.
2005 The opening of the Zagreb-Split motorway places
ibenik only a few hours drive from the heartland of
Central Europe.
2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance.
2011 The first Terraneo Music Festival puts ibenik on
the global rock map.
Special events
06.07 Saturday
22.06 Saturday - 06.07 Saturday
A-3, Dolac, Riva, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Some say that

getting to the top is easy, but staying there is even harder.
Tony Cetinski has reached and remained at the top of Croatian
music for over a decade now and he continues to belt pop
rock hits to ballads with his husky rock vocals and melodies.
The awards, the glamour and the status are there, and he is
sure to rock audiences in ibenik this summer.
Various locations across city, www.mdf-sibenik.com.

Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of ibenik
with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its performances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging
kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes,
puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and painting.
So there are workshops galore, educational training, world
presentations and more! The event is spread across different areas of the city.
Tony Cetinski
11.07 Thursday
John Lee Sanders

Lantana Beach Bar, igraa Bay, Murter Island. Louisiana
born Sanders is a multi-instrumentalist and Emmy nominated
composer who has the blues running through his veins. New
Orleans meets a diverse musical spectrum of cajun, rock,
gospel, pop, jazz, R&B, soul, flamenco, country and gospel.
His deep south prevails and it is of no wonder Sanders is a
wanted man in genre circles.
25.08 Sunday
Peter oToole
The old market was the centerpiece of all trade big and small and was located on kralj Zvonimir until 1968. Today, youll
find the hustle and bustle of a typical Mediterranean market on Stankovaka ulica (G-1). Photo from www.sebenico.com
Terraneo Festival Archives
Concerts
C-3, Trg etiri bunara, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. A real musical treat for all lovers of pure, soulful and uplifting Celtic sound
is coming to ibenik soon! Mr OToole, the recently rejoined
member of the famous Irish band Hothouse Flowers which
successfully combines traditional Irish music with influences
from soul, gospel and rock, will surely steal your heart away.
International Childrens Festival
04.07 Thursday - 29.08 Thursday
Traditional Acapella Evenings
D-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II, Mala loa, www.sibenik-tourism.

hr. One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be
the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella
songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range
in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups
gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening in the
ibenik square. Q Concerts start at 21:30.
13.07 Saturday - 03.08 Saturday
Musica Appassionata Festival
Various locations across city, www.hnksi.hr. Classical music devotees come hence forth as this event brings
together some renowned musicians both local and abroad.
Summer 2013
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS

24.07 Wednesday - 28.07 Sunday
Skaville
Martinska camp, office@skaville.org, www.skaville.

org. ibenik goes ska for the 7th consecutive year with the
only such festival this side of Europe. Jamaican rhythms, dub,
reggae, punk, and world music continue to woo crowds with
USA outfit The Toasters headlining amongst other bands and
DJs. Get the tent pegs ready!
29.07 Monday - 02.08 Friday
Supertoon International Animation Festival

Varoius locations across city centre, www.supertoonfestival.com. Is animation your fascination? The 3rd Supertoon
International Animation Festival presents recent Croatian and
international short animated films through an array of competitions and additional programmes. Do not miss the night
sky projections, film screenings under the stars, workshops,
and beach parties on hand.
ibenik Citiy Museum
16.07 Tuesday - 22.07 Monday
Salsa Beach Splash Festival
Solaris Beach Resort (Solaris Hotel Resort), www.salsabeachsplash.com. The word is, 1 hour break! Indeed, you
can kick your heels from 9am till 8am the next morning for 7
days straight. See world artists and dance companies from
Africa to Latin America and as they call the Solaris Beach
Resort home; a stunning lagoon packed with pools, bars,
restaurants, sunshades, and more. The temperature is set
to rise Salsa style!
29.07 Monday - 04.08 Sunday
The 3rd ibenik Dance Festival

C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske, www.sjene.hr. Dancing is
like dreaming with your feet and this is ibeniks favourite
dance event of the year. Ten days of morning workshops
and evening shows in front of the Cathedral with dancers
and choreographers alike, all participating.
18.07 Thursday - 20.07 Saturday
The 7th Off Blues & Jazz Festival

E-2, Trg Ivana Gorana Kovaia. A three day jazz jostling,
blues burning feta as the locals would call it. Held since
2007, this musical treat continues to grow as it draws
respectable Croatian and world jazz/blues musicians and
is set in the picturesque stone ambience of the Ivan Goran
Kovai Square.
Photo by International Childrens Festival Archives
03.08 Saturday - 09.08 Friday

Famous People
Arsen Dedi (1938- )
If youre in a ibenik caf and you hear some old crooner
warbling from the sound system then the chances are
it will be Arsen Dedi, the ibenik-born poet and singersongwriter who has ruled supreme as the king of Croatian
chanson ever since his first album ovjek kao ja (A Man
Like Me) was released in 1969. Dedis best-known songs
are wistful evocations of past loves, accompanied by
sophisticated piano-and-orchestra backing. Easy listening
perhaps, but with balls.
Maksim Mrvica (1975- )
A product of the Croatian Academy of Music and the
Budapest Conservatoire, the ibenik-born pianist is one of
the worlds prime practitioners of popular classical music,
selling albums by the bucket-load in a range of global
markets especially in the Far East where Mrvica is a major
star. Male-model looks and extravagant stage-shows have
all played their part. Look up the 2003 hit album The Piano
Player (EMI) to find out what all the fuss is about.
Mate Mio Kova (1941- )
Born in Tribunj north of ibenik, Kova was one of
Croatias (indeed Yugoslavias) biggest selling pop stars
of the Sixties and Seventies, and still is a stadium-filling
attraction. His songs are melodic and sentimental in a way

thats traditional for the Adriatic coast, and with long black
hair, bushy moustache, and glinting medallion strategically
hung around the neck, he remains every inch the old-school
Dalmatian charmer.
Draen Petrovi (1964-1993)
Of all ibeniks native sons, Draen Petrovi is the one
who inspires most in the way of unconditional love and
respect - not just in Croatia but across the sporting world.
The extraordinarily gifted basketball player won trophies
with ibenik, Cibona Zagreb, Real Madrid, Portland and
New Jersey before his tragically early demise in a car
accident. Named European Player of the year six times,
and posthumously enrolled into Basketballs Hall of Fame
in 2002, he was a unique and irreplaceable talent.
Goran Vinji (1972 -)
The most immediately recognizable product of ibenik is
Goran Vinji, who played Dr Luka Kova in ER from 1999
until 2008. Before that he was famous for playing Hamlet
at the Dubrovnik Festival seven years in succession, and
for his role as Risto the driver in Michael Winterbottoms
Welcome to Sarajevo in 1997.
Ulina bina Festival
www.ulicna-bina.hr. A festival of street art and culture which

presents fun, interesting yet also educational perfromaces
by various artists, jugglers, musicians, clowns and dancers.
This street festival has been established in ibenik in 2011
and has since gained a lot of popularity for the magic it brings
to this magical city.
07.08 Wednesday - 09.08 Friday
Terraneo Festival
www.terraneofestival.com. Terraneo shines once again

with a three day mega programme swomping two huge
stages, an open air party zone and two indoor club venues
that ought to provide entertainment galore! Pitch a tent, or
even get involved with the ecological programme on offer,
going green is an essential key with eco workshops and
organised bike rides. A shuttle bus service will run from the
City of ibenik to the festival venue. Musically, the bands vary
in genre with indie, new wave, post punk, and electro pop
to heavy rock. The line-up includes The Prodigy, My Bloody
Valentine, Calexico, Dubioza Kolektiv, Darkwood Dub and a
jolly whole lot more. Ohhh a diverse DJ programme in various
hangars and bars is the icing on a hot sunny summer day.
23.08 Friday - 25.08 Sunday
ibenik Chanson Festival
C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske, Summer stage, www.

sansona-sibenik.com. This ancient city has chanson
music carved in its very stones and the schedule is proof of
that. The first, Tribute to EU, is an evening of international
music and the second evening is a Night of New Songs. All

artists will perform live, together with the festival orchestra
and ensembles.
30.08 Friday - 31.08 Saturday
Regius Festival
www.regiusfestival.com. Yet another music festival in

ibenik. Regional cultural and music festival is held on the
Jadrija city swim area. Besides concerts, there will be beach
parties, music workshops and sports tournaments. Visitors
can camp in the pine forest by the site of the festival.
06.09 Friday - 08.09 Sunday
The Fair in Medieval ibenik

Old City Travel back in time and see ibenik as it once was
with actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers,
traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights,
craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint
Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James Cathedral;
this is when their spirit comes to life.
Culture center
Juraj igori City Library E-1, Poljana 6, tel.
(+385-22) 20 12 80, knjiznica-sibenik@si.t-com.hr,

www.knjiznica-sibenik.hr. Q June 18 - September 3
Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Summer 2013
11
12
CULTURE & EVENTS

Organ Cycle on Tuesday
06.08 Tuesday - 15.10 Tuesday
w w w.organum.hr. What
better place to listen to the
enchanting, classical sounds
of the organ than in this amazing ancient city, filled with history and sacral monuments.
The festival, which aims to
promote organ music and preserve historical organs, will be
held in various city churches
on the following Tuesdays:
06.08 Church of the Holy
Spirit
20.08 Church of the Holy
Spirit
03.09 St Francis Church
17.09 St Francis Church
01.10 St James Cathedral
15.10 St James Cathedral
Summer school of Organs

05.08 Monday - 14.08 Wednesday
Galleries
kart Association C-1, Fausta Vrania 5. Smack
bang in the heart of ibenik, this exhibiting space gathers
the creative gurus from the county where visitors can view
their exhibited jewellery, handbags, clothes, animated films
or comic books as well as renovated antique items such as
paintings or photos. Arty workshops, exhibitions and poetry
evenings do occur. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:30 - 21:00.
St Chrysogonus Gallery C/D-2, Don Krste Stoia bb,
tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, galerija.sv.krsevana@si.t-com.
hr, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. As part of the old Romanic
church, the main exhibiting area is designed as the gallery
of contemporary art in ibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and
international artists are often organized. The gallery also has
a studio and the Matija Gallery in the historical part of ibenik.
Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 20:00 - 23:00.
St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija Gallery)
D-2, Petra Nakia bb, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. The

exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krevan Gallery, intended
for contemporary art. It is located in the old baroque building in
the centre of ibenik. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 20:00 - 23:00.
J/K-2, Organum Society, Moseka 7, tel. (+385-22)

21 98 94, www.organum.hr. Out of 19 organs in the
ibenik diocese, 10 are historical, 4 are monuments and
5 are modern. That is why this annual event gathers excellent international lecturers who are all renowned organ
players and is educational with seminars and workshops.
There will be concerts in the ibenik Cathedral and surrounding churches.
Exhibitions
11.07 Thursday - 25.08 Sunday
Edo Murti - New Abstractions

C-3, City Museum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22)
21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. The exhibition by
one of the greats of Croatian modern fine art, whose main
artistic characteristic is creating calligraphy of emotionally
treated color which had become the stamp of his visual
language. Even though, his entire art work is considered
to be a paradigm of modernist ideas and aestheticism,
today we can safely say that his paintings are characterized by eternal contemporarity. His abstract paintings
reveal strong, free and fast movements of the artist
hand, which are filled with energy and vitality of Murtis
chromaticity and dynamics. This is especially visible on
his Mediterranean motifs in which he converted the light
of the Mediterranean landscape into pure color. His ceramics are also a testimony on his versatility as an artist.
27.08 Tuesday - 08.09 Sunday
Sea, people, coast
C-3, City Museum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21

38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. A traditional exhibition
since 1975 which gathers and presents artistic works
of the sea, sea landscapes, Mediterranean plants,
vineyards, Dalmatian towns with their narrow streets and
monuments, as well as their people. See this part of the
world through the eyes of so many Croatian and foreign
masters; the exhibition turns into a celebration of colours,
lines and surfaces. Q Admission free.
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS

11.07 Thursday - 15.07 Monday
County Events
Electric Elephant Festival
The Garden, Tisno, info@electricelephant.co.uk, www.

electricelephant.co.uk. Another fiesta of DJs spinning their
musical wizardry on turntables for five days and nights. See
the likes of Frankie Knuckles, Horse Meat Disco, Doc Martin,
Prosumer and others. The event is set in a dramatic natural
amphitheatre overlooking islands in the distance.
04.08 Sunday
Vodice Fiesta
Vodice The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in
August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music
can be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes
to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party
type of atmosphere.
18.07 Thursday - 22.07 Monday
10.08 Saturday
Soundwave Croatia
International Donkey Race
The Garden, Tisno, www.soundwavecroatia.com. Respected media claim The Garden Bay in Tisno and Soundwave
as one of the most beautiful sites for one of Europes biggest
summer festivals. Imagine sipping cocktails and dancing,
then hopping onto a party boat to the Kornati Islands and
before you know it, back on stage. Take on the voyage!
Trg Rudina, Tisno, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 35 38 64,

www.tisnjanskitovar.org. Are donkeys as stubborn as
people say they are? Come and see this traditional race
which began in 1963 and has over the years turned into an
international event. It is unique in promoting and preserving
donkeys, considered the authentic Dalmatian animal. Q
Starts at 21:00.
24.07 Wednesday - 30.07 Tuesday
SuncBeat 4
The Garden, Tisno, info@suncebeat.com, www.suncebeat.com. Another addition to the Garden Festival series
is this intimate musical festival which attracts over 2000
musical lovers who know how to chill to the beats of this
years line up; Mark Farina, Osunlade, Derric Carter, Gregory
Porter live, Sarah Favouritizm and more
22.06 Saturday - 23.06 Sunday
Festival of old wedding customs Oj divojko,

dii se iz dvora
Pirovac Forget the fancy shmancy limousines, the wedding
planner, bridal party and so on. Here visitors will be able to
see and participate in exhibitions, ethno workshops, fashion
shows and demonstrations of old customs from the Pirovac
area. Weddings in particular!

Argnoaughty action 2, www.heathershuker.co.uk
The Garden Music Festivals
16.07 Tuesday
03.07 Wednesday - 10.07 Wednesday
Lady of Carmel Procession
The Garden Festival
Vodice The procession starts at the Holy Cross Parish

Church (built from 1590-1660) in honour of Lady of Carmel
and will finish at the Lady of Carmel sanctuary on the hill
Okito. In 1909, local emigrants from Australia donated money to build the 14 Stations of the Cross positioned there.
27.07 Saturday
Games on korenat - Adria Meeting

Tisno Locals call it Igre na korentu and it consists of two
teams - the mainland locals versus the island locals. They
compete in different games of endurance, speed and power
on the sea. The key is that the korenat sea currant around
the Tisno channel is quite powerful and is used to create
obstacles for the contestants.
29.07 Monday - 30.07 Tuesday
The 11th Vodice Jazz & Blues Festival

Obala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice. There are those who
unashamedly love jazz and those who live for jazz. See
the lads and lasses of the eminent Croatian and world jazz
scene with versatile styles of music from classical swing,
rhythm and dixieland, to the more contemporary genres
such as fusion and free jazz. Q Starts at 21:30.
01.09 Sunday - 30.09 Monday
Days of the Latin Sail
Murter, www.latinskoidro.hr. A traditional event which

features rowing, sailing, exhibiting, eating and learning!
The regatta Latin Sail will be held on September 30 at
the Murter Hramina Bay. September turns educational
with workshops, a junior sailing course, lectures, and other
educational extravaganzas. Visitors can also enter teams
who are keen on a splish and splash with a paddle.
The Garden, Tisno, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.

thegardenfestival.eu. Where else can you dance the day
and night away whilst swimming in the sea or chilling beneath
a canopy? Embark on a festival like no other, world artists
amalgamate here and bring their music to the people. See
Metro Area, Space Dimension Controller, Crazy P, Auntie Flo
and Outboxx live and at least 40 top notch world DJs. Ohh and
the Argonaughty Boat Partiesor Barbarellas Discotheque
where you can dance under the stars. There is Luxury Boutique Camping, an onsite Apartment Village. The set up is to
a tea so as you enter the garden doors, prepare to enter the
Musical Garden of Eden.
Stop making sense
The Garden, Tisno, info@stopmakingsense.eu, www.

stopmakingsense.eu. Four days and four nights of nonstop music with beach and boat parties in the beautiful little
Dalmatian town of Tisno. World DJs and crews bring their
electronic turntables to the secluded Garden Bay where
paradise gets a pumping b.b.b.b.b.b beat!
01.08 Thursday
The 6th Murterski Pir
Soundwave Festival Archives
Murter See the forgotten traditional wedding customs

of old from this island. Witness the parade where all the
participants are dressed in costume and dance traditional
folklore on the main square, a dance of special rhythm
and choreography but without music. Customs such as
the bride having pirovnjaci who carry the brides dota, an
old treasury chest filled with bed spreads, clothes, garden
tools and a mandrel for winding wool. Then the locals give
all attendees wine, and. Well youll just have to see the
rest for yourself.
Cinemas
Electric Elephant Festival, www.heathershuker.co.uk
CineStar ibenik P-4, Velimira korpika 23 (Dalmare centre), www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations
call 060 32 32 33. Q Box office open an hour before the
first projection.
Murter Summer Cinema Rudina bb, Murter, tel.
(+385-) 095 913 49 92. Q Open July - August 26. Box
office opens at 20:30, an hour before the first projection.
Summer 2013
15
16
CAMPING IN CROATIA
CAMPING IN CROATIA
Naturist camping
Fresh air and exercise

Got heaps of time on your hands this summer but not so
much money? Get thyself a tent, dear friend, and indulge
in the joys of camping! Theres 1000km of coast at your
disposal in Croatia, and almost as many islands. There are
forests and meadows, rivers and mountains, all waiting to
be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or even on your
trusty four wheels.
Croatias campsites grew up during the 20th century to
cater for everyone from inter-railing students to well-off
families in motor homes that are better-equipped than
many peoples apartments. People love the freedom that
camping offers. You can head off on a great road trip,
stopping where you fancy. And theres something special
about crawling into your very own nylon and fiberglass
home or lying back in a deckchair while steaks sizzle on
the barbecue and cicadas chirrup all around.
Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great

outdoors, its a happy coincidence that many campsites
are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the countrys
national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping
facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is
finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers
of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun
combination.
Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and
outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing
and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites
tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which
offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive
surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of
Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.
Food and drink
The big campsites
Camping is a great way to get to know a country. When it

comes to mealtimes, you get to choose between sampling
local restaurants or exploring shops and markets for local
produce. Campsites usually have inexpensive eateries
onsite or nearby, and in our experience theyve always been
fine, serving stuff like grilled mackerel, fried sardines, squid,
risottos, grilled meats and salads. And when its time for a
light snack, is there any better taste than freshly-baked
bread and ripe tomatoes drizzled with home-produced olive
oil, eaten in the shade?
If youre looking for activities and entertainment the big

campsites have most to offer. On the beaches youll find
pedaloes, water slides, bananas, jet skis and more. There
are tennis courts, volleyball courts, five-a-side football
pitches and table tennis tables. You can rent bikes, mopeds
and small boats. And for families with small children, there
are usually beaches suitable for kids, as well as hosts and
hostesses who will keep the little ones entertained while you
take a well-earned break.
The following are among the top campsites in Croatia when it
comes to facilities and family-friendly entertainment: Zaton
near Zadar (winner of an ADAC Best Family Campsite
award), Soline near Biograd, San Marino at Lopar (Rab
island), Solaris near ibenik, Strako near Novalja (Pag
island), the camping park at Umag, Poljana on Mali
Loinj island, Kovaine at Cres town (Cres island), the
campsite at Krk town (Krk island), and Zelena Laguna
at Pore.
Creature comforts
The best news is that in recent years the standard of facilities
in campsites has improved considerably. Whether youre
heading for the quietest outpost on the remotest island or
the biggest resorts on the tourist itinerary, these days your
shower block is mostly modern and clean, while washing
machines, fridges and barbecues will probably be at your
disposal. An increasing number of sites offer facilities for
dog owners such as designated beaches and dog showers.
Some campsites offer beautifully-appointed mobile homes
or bungalows, others have communal areas that look like
trendy lounge bars, and an increasing number are open all
year and have heated facilities. Many campsites have also
have tents and trailers for rent so you can camp even if you
dont have kit of your own.
San Marino on Rab Island

The San Marino holiday complex in Lopar on Rab island
is named after the saint who also gave his name to the
tiny republic of San Marino, just across the Adriatic.
Legend has it that San Marino (or Saint Marinus) was
born in Lopar in the 4th century AD.
The Croatian coast has for decades been a top destination

for fans of naturist (clothing-free) holidays. German
advocates of the Freikrperkultur (Free Body Culture, or
FKK) philosophy of healthy living helped establish naturist
facilities here in the early 20th century. Where you see the
FKK sign, that means youre about to enter a naturist zone.
Nowadays, although youll find naturist beaches at almost
every resort along the coast, there are some spots which are
particularly well-known for catering for naturists. Examples
are Rab island where the first naturist beach was established;
the Istrian island of Koversada, one of the largest naturist
resorts in Europe; the islet of Jerolim just offshore from
Hvar town (Hvar island), and the Valalta complex near
Rovinj in Istria.
You can choose between fully naturist campsites, clothingoptional campsites and regular campsites with naturist
bathing onsite. If youre off the beaten track, youre sure to
find a secluded spot where its perfectly well-tolerated for
naturists to sunbathe and swim.
Croatia is one of the three countries in Europe with the
most naturist camping facilities. Most of them are on the
northern part of the coast (Istria and Kvarner). Here are our
suggestions: Sovinje (Zadar), Bunculuka (Baka, otok
Krk), Nudist (Split), Konobe (Krk), Koversada (Vrsar),
Ulika (Pore), Kamp Baldarin (Mali Loinj).
Things to do
Apart from activities organised by campsites, we recommend
the following things to do during your stay.
Istria
In Istria, head for Beram, a hamlet of 200 souls where the
Church of St Mary on kriljinah has an amazing fresco of the
Danse Macabre dating from 1747. At Bale, a picturesque
little inland town that Casanova is said to have visited, in
the Ulika gallery you can see dinosaur remains that were
found nearby.
Pazin in the heart of Istria is noted for its karst cave where
the Pazin river plunges underground. The cave is said to have
inspired Jules Verne for his fantastic stories.
Take a peek into the shipwreck of the Baron Gautsch,
an Austrian passenger ship which sank in 1914. It lies
40m below the surface 6 nm southwest of the island and
lighthouse named Sveti Ivan na Puini. The ship is a protected
site so diving is only permitted through registered diving
centres. It is incredibly well preserved, still displaying its belle
poque beauty. And speaking of boats, visit the misleadinglynamed Eko muzej Batana at Rovinj, which has nothing to
do with organic vegetables but is all about a traditional type
of boat, the batana.
Abbys of Pazin Pazin, tel. (+385-52) 62 50 40, www.
pazinska-jama.com.
The Batana Ecomuseum Obala P. Budicina 2, Rovinj,
batana@rv-batana.t-com.hr, www.batana.org. Q Open
10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Tickets 5 - 10kn.
The Church of St Mary on kriljinah Beram, tel.
Mrs estan, (+385-52) 62 29 03. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Ulika Gallery Rovinjska 1, Bale, tel. Bale Tourist Office
(+385-52) 82 42 70. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
A word of warning
Several readers told us that despite having confirmed
reservations and paid deposits, they have been turned
away from some campsites due to overbooking. Unfortunately we cant assist directly in these matters, but
if this happens to you do let us know about and well
remove the culprits from our guide. We also suggest
you leave your comments on Trip Advisor and similar
sites to warn others.
For a great hike, head for Mali Loinj island and climb
the peak of Osorica (588m). Youll be rewarded by
a 360-degree view of Pag and Silba islands, the Istrian
peninsula, the mountains of Gorski kotar and the Velebit
range. Trails start at Nerezine or Osor (just across the
causeway on Cres island). Be sure to take plenty of water and
in hot weather start early in the morning. Theres a mountain
lodge open during the summer every day except Mondays.
On a cultural note, in Mali Loinj town, in the museum in
the Fritzy palace you can see the Mihii Collection of
contemporary Croatian painting, sculpture and medallions,
and the Piperata Collection - 27 works by Italian masters
of the 17th and 18th century. Take a step back in time in Rab
town on 25-27 July when the Knights Tournament and the
Rapska fjera take place. This is the towns annual fiesta held
in honour of its patron Saint Christopher and King Ljudevit
the Great which began 1346.
Jelenje Tourist Association, tel. (+385-51) 29 71 52,
info@tz-jelenje.hr, www.tz-jelenje.hr.
St Gaudent Hiking Lodge Osorica Mountain, tel.
(+385-) 098 40 34 69. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
The Loinj Museum V.Gortana 35, Mali Loinj, tel.
(+385-51) 23 38 92, www.muzej.losinj.hr. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5 - 10kn.
Kvarner
If youre in Kvarner, dont miss the old smithy at Draice
(just inland from Rijeka) where you can see how blacksmiths
ply their trade. Close by is Gaparov mlin, a well-preserved
watermill, one of several at Grobnik. For a tour, contact the
Jelenje Tourist Association on 051 297 152.
Summer 2013
17
18
WHERE TO STAY
CAMPING IN CROATIA
Small and family-run campsites
Symbol key
Camping these days need not be a spartan, style-free

experience. The following campsites offer something
special, be it a warm family welcome, concern for good
management or a refreshing dose of good design. Kamp
Jasenovo (ibenik), Kamp Maslinik (Punat, Krk island),
Kamp Adriatic (Orebi), Kamp Village Zrmanja (Draga,
near Obrovac), Kamp Vira (Hvar) - voted best mid-sized
campsite in 2012.
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
Desert island camping
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
If you prefer to get away from everything, and everybody,

while youre on holiday head for a secluded campsite where
you can enjoy Robinson Crusoe style solitude. Try these
ones: Kamp Paradiso (Drage, near ibenik), Kamp Lupis
(Peljeac), Kamp Uja (Senj), Kamp Kate (Mlini), Kamp
Aloa (Bra), or Kamp Sloga (Prvi Luka).
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi connection
Eco-friendly campsites
Regius Festival Archives
Northern and central Dalmatia

If Dalmatia is your destination, apart from the sights we
describe in our ibenik-Knin county pages (pp.49) we
suggest the following. If youre travelling from the Zagreb
direction, turn off the motorway at Gospi to visit the Nikola
Tesla Memorial Centre. Tesla, a massive genius and
charming eccentric, was born right here.
Ease away your aches and pains at Zablae, just 9km from
the Solaris camp near ibenik. The medicinal mud here has
been proven to be effective in relieving rheumatism.
Or, for a little more action, sign up for the military-style
adventures on the islet of Mrara, close to Lastovo island.
Here they offer team building, fitness boot camps and
military-themed games.
Not so far away on Vis island, be sure to visit the pleasing
park in Vis town. Keen botanists might spot an unusual
Mazari palm, not often spotted outside Asia and the
Middle East.
Likewise, on Hvar island nature lovers will have ample
chances to see agaves in flower. Agaves flower only after
the plant has been growing for 100 years, and after flowering
has finished the plant dies. That makes the flower worth
seeing in our book. Agaves are among the iconic images of
the beautiful green coast of Dalmatia.
Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre Smiljan, tel. (+385-53)
74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 50kn.
Southern Dalmatia
If Southern Dalmatia is your destination, we recommend a
visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum near Metkovi,
where you can learn about the ruins of a Roman temple found
here. At Moii you can see an ancient stone carving of the
god Mitrej. And towards the very southern tip of Croatia, in the
village of Dunave, where the borders of Croatia, Hercegovina
and Montenegro meet, you can climb to the Sokol Tower.
From here, as you take in the view of the entire Konavle
region, you can get a sense of the mighty fortifications that
once stood guard over the Republic of Ragusa.
Narona Archaeological Museum Vid, tel. (+385-20)
69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 40kn.
Sokol Tower Dunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.
In recent years a growing number of campsites in Croatia

have worked hard to achieve certification for environmental
standards. Certified camps have clean beaches and water,
conserve energy and other resources, prevent pollution
and provide recycling facilities. Among the best eco-friendly
camps in Croatia are Kamp Krk on Krk island and
Kamp Stobre in Split. Kamp Stobre in 2009 won a
Federcampeggia award for hospitality and environmentallyfriendly facilities.
Mobile Homes
Love the idea of camping but not so keen to give up your
creature comforts? Mobile homes and bungalows may be just
what you need. A fair few campsites now offer mobile homes
or prefab bungalows for rent, which can be surprisingly stylish
(not to mention comfortable). This gives you reasonablypriced accommodation in peaceful surroundings with the
luxury of your own bathroom. Try Autokamp Slamni on Krk
island or Kamp Strako on Pag island.
Dont Light My Fire

Dont even think about it. Long, hot summers turn the
vegetation in Dalmatia into one huge tinderbox. Wildfires
caused by a moments thoughtlessness spread rapidly
with tragic consequences for people, wildlife and property, so penalties for culprits are stiff.
Here are a few tips to help you avoid hitting the headlines
for all the wrong reasons:
Litter: Were sure you have the good sense and good
manners not to leave your litter strewn around the countryside, but be especially aware that discarded glass and
plastic can act as a magnifying glass for the suns rays
and be a cause of fire.
Cigarettes: A tin with a lid or a screwtop container
makes a great portable ashtray so you can dispose of
your cigarette ends properly in a rubbish bin. If you must
dispose of your cigarette end in the countryside, be
especially careful to extinguish it properly, and definitely
dont throw burning butts from the car window.
Fires and barbecues: Flying sparks can set overhead
trees alight and fires will race over grass and scrub. Look
for designated areas in camp sites and nature parks with
properly enclosed barbecues. Be sure to have water to
hand in case of mishaps, and be sure your fire is properly
out before you leave it.
Up market
Primoten, hotel Zora Archives
Panorama ibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98,
fax (+385-22) 21 31 11, hotel-panorama@si.t-com.hr,

www.hotel-panorama.hr. Sited on a clifftop by the famous
bridge over the Krka river gorge, this aptly-named hotel enjoys
a spectacular view over ibenik town, the surrounding islands
and coastline. The location is great for exploring the Krka
national park and other attractions in the ibenik region,
but if youre a light sleeper, ask for a room facing away from
the road. After extensive renovations, the hotel looks pretty
smart, though the neon lighting and stiff flower arrangements
are a bit garish. Lovely outdoor seawater pool and friendly
staff. Q40 rooms (40 singles 49 - 84, 40 doubles 39 - 74).
PHAFLGBKXCW hhhh
Solaris Beach Resort Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb,
tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, fax (+385-22) 36 18 00, info@
solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr. The Solaris centre is a purposebuilt resort 6km south of ibenik, occupying a green peninsula
near the village of Brodarica. There are five seasonally-open
hotels here, all concrete constructions dating from the 1960s
that have been extensively refurbished. Hotels Ivan, Jure,
Andrija and Niko are 4 star, while Jakov is 3 star. Hotel Ivan
is the pearl in Solariss crown, with conference facilities and
a large wellness centre boasting saunas, solarium, massage
facilities and beauty treatments. The wellness facilities are
available to guests in Solariss other four hotels. As well as
long stretches of concrete and pebble beach, Solaris contains
well-maintained sports grounds, a Dalmatian village, a complex of stone houses, and a childrens play centre complete
with trampoline, carting circuit, and a pirate ship. The whole
complex is surrounded by a fence. Q1323 rooms (54 singles
59 - 144, 589 doubles 78 - 216, 869 triples 90 - 200, 184
quads 102 - 222, 16 suites 129 - 340, 12 Junior Suites
144 - 381). PTHAULGKwW
Hostin Petria Glava 34, Tisno, tel. (+385-1) 459

30 90/(+385-22) 43 87 22, fax (+385-22) 43 87 22,
booking@hostin.hr, www.hostin.hr. On the mainland side
of Tisno and just off the main road to ibenik, the Hostin
campsite and apartment complex spreads over an olivecovered hillside overlooking Rastovac bay. The site has its
own rock-and-pebble beach, and the centre of Tisno is within
walking distance via a coastal path around the Petrica Glava
peninsula. Q Camper & two people/per day 16 - 30, Tent
& two people/per day 13 - 25. A6LW
Jasenovo Uvala Jasenovo, abori, tel. (+385-) 098
906 32 50, fax (+385-22) 35 05 05, kamp@jasenovo.hr,
www.jasenovo.hr. This popular seafront site in the sleepy
seaside village of abori occupies gently sloping terrain with
plenty of tree cover. There is a small childrens play area, a
caf, well-tended shrubs, and aboris pebbly beach is right
next door. The ground is stony so take care not to bend your
tent pegs. Q Person/per day 2 - 7.50, Camping trailer 5
- 9, Car 2 - 4, Tent 4.80 - 8, Pets 1.50 - 4, Accomodation
tax 0.70 - 0.90. 6LNW
Camping
Adriatic Huljerat 1/A, Primoten, tel. (+385-22) 57 12
23, fax (+385-22) 57 13 60, camp-adriatiq@adriatiq.
com, www.autocamp-adriatiq.com. Three kilometres
northwest of Primoten beside the main coastal highway, this
is a large and well-equipped site occupying a terraced hillside
right above the sea. Almost all of the pitches are shaded by
pines, and the camps impressive rocks-and-pebbles beach
is the briefest of strolls away. Q Person/per day 25 - 60kn,
Camper 54 - 90kn, Camping trailer 41 - 63kn, Tent 37 - 56kn,
Car 26 - 42kn, Pets 33 - 46kn, Accomodation tax 3.50 - 7kn.
TA6LKW
Summer 2013
19
20
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Mid range
Jadran D-3, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 52, tel. (+385-22)
24 20 00, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr,

www.rivijera.hr. The only hotel in central ibenik, the Jadran
is the place to be if you want to walk out of the door and
straight into the Old Town. Rooms are appropriately furnished
for a 3-star, with small TVs and cramped en-suite bathrooms.
Half of the rooms look out onto the palm-lined Riva, and there
is a reasonable restaurant and caf on site. Q57 rooms (6
singles 57 - 78, 43 doubles 50 - 62, 8 triples 46 - 59).
Prices are per person. PZJHAGBKW hhh
Out of town
Colentum Put Slanice bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43
Jezera Lovia Uvala Lovia bb, Jezera, tel. (+385-22)
43 96 00/(+385-22) 43 90 75, fax (+385-22) 43 92 15,

info@jezera-kornati.hr, www.jezera-kornati.hr. Spread
across terraced slopes above a broad bay, this large site is
set amidst well-tended patches of Mediterranean garden and
with ample tree cover. Restaurant, bars and supermarket are
all on site. A small childrens play area and a shallow shingle
beach make this a good place for young families. The centre of
Tisno is a 20-minute walk or short bike ride around the coast.
Q Person/per day 5 - 10, Children 3 - 7, Tent 3 - 6, Car
and Tent 7 - 13, Car and Camping trailer 8 - 17, Camper
7 - 16, Pets 5 - 8, Accomodation tax 0.94. TALKW
Krka Skoii 21, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 84 95/
(+385-) 098 84 80 12, goran.skocic@si.t-com.hr, www.
camp-krka.hr. On the road between Lozovac and Skradin,
this pleasant site under the trees is a convenient spot for
exploring the National Park for those with their own transport - although it is not within walking distance of any major
attractions. Tourist tax included in the price. Q Person/per
day 1.60 - 4, Camping trailer 3.20 - 4, Tent 2.80 - 5, Car
1.60 - 2. TNKW
Slanica Podvrke bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 42 05,
fax (+385-22) 43 59 11, info@murter-slanica.hr, www.
murter-slanica.hr. Perfectly positioned just above Slanica
beach, this site offers pitches on an attractively rocky slope
underneath pine trees. It is a 20-minute walk from the centre of town but there is the odd snack bar and restaurant
nearby. In summer the air is thick with the sound of crickets.
Q Person/per day 30.20 - 46.70kn, Children 19 - 26kn, Car
24.20 - 28kn, Camper 40 - 63kn, Tent 27.30 - 40kn, Pets
22 - 30kn. TALW
Solaris Camping Resort Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb,
ibenik, tel. (+385-22) 36 40 00/(+385-22) 36 10 17,
fax (+385-22) 36 18 01, camping@solaris.hr, www.
campingsolaris.com. This large and highly-regimented site
on the western edge of the Solaris resort enjoys a sea-front
position, with supermarket, restaurant and childrens play
area all on site. The other facilities of the Solaris resort are
at guests disposal. Q Person / per day 4 - 9.80, Children
4.80 - 7.88, Pitch 8 - 36, Camping place 5 - 19.60, Pets
4.50 - 7.20, Accomodation tax 1. T6LBKC
11 00, fax (+385-22) 43 52 55, info@hotel-colentum.

hr, www.hotel-colentum.com. A series of interlocking
grey cubes set on the slopes above Slanica bay, the Colentum will never win any awards for fine architecture. Once
inside however there is a comforting sense of neatness
and comfort, with tidy en-suite rooms decked out in happy,
brain-soothing colours. There is a small outdoor pool, and
a good proportion of the rooms face directly out towards
the sea - if you want a maritime view ask before booking.
Q89 rooms (89 doubles 83 - 195, 89 triples 100 - 234).
PALGBKCW hhh
Hotel Complex Punta Grgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel.
(+385-22) 45 14 51, fax (+385-22) 45 14 34, sales@
hotelivodice.hr, www.hotelivodice.hr. Well-organized fourstar establishment with a main building set among pines and
three annexes - all are within easy walking distance of the
concrete-and-gravel beach, and the centre of Vodice is three
minutes away. Rooms are plain but well-appointed, although
most bathrooms have shower cubicle rather than bathtub.
It is busy in summer, when breakfast time can be a bit of a
crush. Q312 rooms (309 singles 56 - 140, 309 doubles
34 - 82, 3 Junior Suites 232 - 298). PHARUFL
GKDCwW hhhh
Kristina etalite Mie Sladoljeva 3, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 41 73, fax (+385-22) 44 04 73, hotel-kristina@
si.t-com.hr, www.hotelkristina.net. This medium-sized
two-star, two-storey block doesnt look much from the outside, but it has a nice sea-front position on the peninsula
just west of the centre. Rooms are functional and furniture
slightly old-fashioned, although if you manage to get one of
the shore-facing balconies then you wont be too worried
about further frills. Q20 rooms (20 doubles 400 - 500kn).
ALGBKW hh
Maestral Prvi Luka, tel. (+385-22) 44 83 00, fax
(+385-22) 44 83 01, info@hotelmaestral.com, www.hotelmaestral.com. Something of an antidote to the concrete
hotels of the mainland resorts, the 3-star Maestral occupies
a lovely green-shuttered building right on Prvi Lukas port.
Built as a schoolhouse in the 19th-century, the hotel offers
stylish rooms with plenty of exposed stonework, hardwood
floors and simple but sleek furnishings. Prices vary according
to whether your room looks inland or out to sea, so always
check when booking. Q12 rooms (11 doubles 338 - 465kn,
1 apartment 1140 - 1388kn). PAGBKXW hhh
Hostel
Globo F-2, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 337 37
44/(+385-) 091 337 37 45, info@hostel-globo.
com, www.hostel-globo.com. A perfectly positioned
hostel which is a mere one minute walk from the Old
Town and features guestrooms with 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
beds. All guestrooms have internet access and closets
with locks. For extra convenience, visitors have access
to the kitchenette, living room, Wi-Fi, TV, bathroom, and
luggage storage. Q 42 dorm beds, 99 - 133kn per
person. PAGW
Indigo D-2, Jurja Barakovia 3, tel. (+385-22) 20
01 59/(+385-) 091 337 37 44, info@hostel-indigo.
com, www.hostel-indigo.com. A super little family-run
hostel, Indigo is as funky as its name suggests and twice
as friendly. Youre right in the Old Town and all rooms
have sea views. Rooms are clean and cheerful, the
bathrooms are a delight, and theres a cute buffet where
you can eat nearby. Towels and bedding are included in
the price, which is per person, with supplements if you
want a room to yourself. Q 20 dorm beds, 112kn per
person. PJRGW
Mare C-1, Kralja Zvonimira 40, tel. (+385-22) 21
52 69/(+385-) 098 180 59 38, hostel.mare@gmail.
com, www.hostel-mare.com. Spic and span new hostel
located smack centre in town and walking distance to all
major sights. Its seven rooms vary from two to ten beds.
Communal showers available and services include Wi-Fi,
air-con, and free car park. Its bunk beds all-round! Q 44
dorm beds, 100 - 140kn per person. PJAGW
Summer 2013
21
22
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Skradinski Buk Burinovac 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-22)
Mihovil Ante Ania 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44,
fax (+385-22) 66 44 42, slavko.zivkovic@si.t-com.hr,

www.hotelmihovil.com. Medium-sized, family-run Mihovil
offers modest but neat rooms in a jolly-looking building that
resembles an angular lemon-meringue pie. The hotel is located right on the very edge of town, in a residential district
that has a calming village-like atmosphere. Q32 rooms (3
singles 300 - 540kn, 27 doubles 400 - 640kn, 2 apartments
540 - 840kn). PALGBKXW hhh
Miran Zagrebaka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 46
70 64, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr,
www.rivijera.hr. A three-storey block at the western end of
Pirovac, Miran has its own pebbly gravel beach, with views
of Betina (with its distinctive church belfry) on the island of
Murter across the water. Rooms are primly furnished with
ensuite WC/shower: all come with balconies. There is also
a choice of one- or two-bedroom self-catering bungalows
in the hotel grounds. Q71 rooms (5 singles 46 - 83, 52
doubles 35 - 64, 14 triples 35 - 64). Prices are per person.
ZALGKC hhh
Olympia Ljudevita Gaja 6, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24
52, fax (+385-22) 45 24 20, prodaja@olympiavodice.
hr, www.olympiavodice.hr. Consisting of a distinctive pair
of pink-coloured ziggurats, the Olympia is one of the better
addresses in the ibenik region, offering plush and spacious
rooms with free wifi, balconies and - in most cases - a sea
view. An outdoor pool is right outside the front door, and
Vodices beach is only a two-minute stroll away. The on-site
wellness centre offers all manner of pampering. Q 241
rooms (215 singles 79 - 147, 215 doubles 100 - 190, 26
apartments 175 - 435). PTHAUFLKDCW
hhhh
Photo by Ivan Dimnjakovi
77 17 71, fax (+385-22) 77 17 70, skradinski-buk@

si.t-com.hr, www.skradinskibuk.hr. Perfectly positioned
for expeditions into the Krka National Park, this medium-sized
hotel offers smallish but well-appointed rooms in muted oranges and yellows. Its right in the pedestrianized centre of
historic Skradin, a fine location for evening strolls. Q29 rooms
(3 singles 258 - 408kn, 19 doubles 399 - 632kn, 3 triples
449 - 683kn, 4 apartments 449 - 683kn). PJARL
GBKXW hhh
Spongiola Obala I 58, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 34 89
00, fax (+385-22) 34 89 03, info@spongiola.com, www.
spongiola.com. This smart, comfortable and rather intimate
mid-size hotel stands right on Krapanjs seafront, with views
back across the water towards the mainland settlement of
Brodarica. Doubles and suites come with hardwood floors,
soothing colours, and sepia photos of the islands sponge
divers. About half the rooms have small balconies. A display
of sponges and antique pottery in the both the lobby and
the spiral staircase point to the islands fascinating past,
and theres an engaging museum of sponge diving in the
basement. Also downstairs are sauna, solarium, gym and
small swimming pool with rock-and-pebble beach outside
the door. Q 23 rooms (8 doubles 60 - 85, 10 triples
60 - 85, 5 apartments 75 - 100). Prices are per person.
PARFBKDCW hhhh
Zora Radua 11, Primoten, tel. (+385-22) 58 11 11,
Villa Radin Grgura Ninskog 10, Vodice, tel. (+385-22)

44 04 15, fax (+385-22) 44 02 11, hotel-villa@radin.hr,
www.hotel-villa.radin.hr. If youre looking for an intimate,
small-scale and rather swanky hotel in the midst of a teeming
package resort, then Villa Radin is probably the answer. Small
size assures attentive service by people who might actually
remember your name, and the lush garden and outdoor pool
provide a feeling of private-holiday-villa contentment. All the
rooms have sea-facing balconies. Q13 rooms (12 singles
100 - 155, 12 doubles 80 - 120, 1 apartment 125 - 165).
Prices are per person. PHALGBKCW hhhh
Vrata Krke Lozovac bb, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80
92, fax (+385-22) 77 80 91, info@vrata-krke.hr, www.
vrata-krke.hr. Right opposite the Lozovac entrance to the
National Park, this bright ochre-coloured building is the ideal
base from which to explore the cataracts and canyons of the
Krka. Standard doubles come with flat-screen TVs, small
balconies and WC/shower, while the swankier apartments
offer full-size bathtubs with retro fittings. The carpet in the
hallways and most of the rooms features a wavy green pattern that we rather liked. Q44 rooms (40 singles 39 - 79,
40 doubles 53 - 120, 4 apartments 80 - 153). PHA
RULGBKW hhh
fax (+385-22) 57 11 20, hotel-zora@adriatiq.com, www.

hotelzora-adriatiq.com. Ideally situated on a pine-covered
headland right above the beach, Zora is a sizeable establishment embracing several accommodation blocks (and a
conference centre) linked to each other by long corridors.
Choose between simple en-suite 3-star rooms, or slightly
swisher 4-star doubles featuring fancier colour schemes
and more solid furnishings. A huge sea-facing breakfast
room, cable internet, childrens play centre and on-site spa
facilities constitute the major additional attributes. Q324
rooms (10 singles 56 - 155, 274 doubles 40 - 111, 7 suites
158 - 448, 33 Family Rooms 56 - 155). PTHAR
FGKDCW hhh
Old School Charm

Tisno Zapadna Gomilica 8, Tisno, tel./fax (+385-
22) 43 81 82, info@hoteltisno.hr, www.hoteltisno.

com. An intimate 9-room family-run hotel in a historic
three-storey waterside house, the Tisno offers swanky,
fully-equipped rooms decked out in plush dark red fabrics
and solid cherry-brown furnishings. The secluded back
yard with small outdoor pool is a major feature. Prices
include breakfast. Q9 rooms (8 doubles 130 - 170, 1
Junior Suite 200 - 260). PZARLGCW hhh
Summer 2013
23
24
LOCAL FLAVOUR
LOCAL FLAVOUR
kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is made
without any flour - the cakes texture comes instead from the
ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime ingredients.
Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rose-petal brandy, its
a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary discovery for those who
havent had the good fortune to visit Skradin before. Youll find
it on the dessert menus of most of the towns restaurants.
Sheeps-milk cheese
Typical of the Drni area is sir iz miine, a sheeps-milk
cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps
gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma
and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it
advertised on the menus of local restaurants.
If you get a chance to visit the Kornati Islands on your sailing boat, you can be sure to treat your taste buds in restaurants
with their daily fresh catch, from the sea directly onto your plate. Nature Park Kornati Archives
In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, the
ibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attractions.
As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profusion
of distinctive local delicacies too.
Fish and shellfish
The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fish.
Fine white fish such as John Dory (kova), Sea Bass (brancin)
or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served whole
(complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using knives,
forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white meat is
an essential part of the experience. Fish on restaurant menus
is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish that weighs about
300g-400g is usually sufficient for one person. Many restaurants do however serve individually-priced fish fillets, aware
that foreign visitors often find the whole fish-ordering process
a bit confusing. The standard accompaniment for fish is
mangold (blitva), a green vegetable full of healthy minerals.
Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or inuni)
are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent snacks or
as an accompaniment to a round of drinks.
Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local
restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs.
The ibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its
shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river
Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the water
Maratina
Maratina is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be
found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is
common on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer
so sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its
growth. It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a
discreet and pleasant aroma. At the 6th Wine Festival
held in 2011 in Skradin, maratina took out all the
major awards in the white wine category. Winemakers
Dragutin Dobrovi from Pirovac and Ivica Dapo from
Oklaj received awards for the best white bottled and
corked wines.
marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krkas clear waters the
local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than elsewhere
in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant menus
as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka is also
famous for its freshwater trout. Another real delicacy of the
Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as biot),
which is lighter in texture and taste than the more fatty eels
found in the Neretva delta further south.
Roast meats
The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia provides
ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nibbling away
on grasses and herbs on the plateau between ibenik and
Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town routes frequently
entice travellers to pull over by roasting a whole animal in
the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by weight with onthe-bone cuts frequently included in each portion - so dont
be too shy to use your hands. Lamb is usually served with
several shoots of spring onion.
The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal is
under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka. The method
requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to generate the heat.
Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side pot and covered
with the peka lid, which is then covered in hot ashes. The
ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot start to cool.
The whole process takes about two hours, and results in a
wonderfully tender and succulent meal.
Skradin specialities
Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski riot (Skradin
risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours (or two
days according to some purists) and the rice being added
only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish, cooked by the
men of the town on the eve of a major feast day. Nowadays
you will find it on restaurant menus in Skradin - although you
should stick to the best Skradin restaurants if you want to
eat a version of Skradinski riot that has been authentically slow-cooked.
Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that
looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally different
Olive oil
The whole of ibenik county is covered in olive plantations.
Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half of
the 20th century have been returned to cultivation, and new
saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes all around
the region. Murter is a major centre of olive oil production,
although most production is on a small family-farm level and
it is difficult to find locally-bottled oil in shops. Many of the
locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in the centre of Murter
town in the summer months.
The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil which
is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesnt qualify
for the extra virgin label) but it does have a smoother taste
and texture as a result, and is very good for general kitchen
use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the island
of Krapanj.
Wine and spirits
ibenik county is a major wine producing region, with
vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast.
The most common local wine is the outstanding red Babi,
although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babi comes from
Primoten, although good-quality Babi is also cultivated
along the whole of ibenik countys coast. Biggest local
winery is the ibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which
produces top-quality Babi alongside mid-price wines like
Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table wines.
Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent
mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry white
Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended wines, and
international strains such as the quality red Sangreal Shiraz.
Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od rua
(rose-petal rakija) and liker od iula (liqueur flavoured with
berries from the jujube tree).
While visiting the ibenik area, do not miss the opportunity

to try out indigenous wine varieties in one of the ibenik
konobe (taverns) such as the black babi or white
maratina. Photo by eljko Krnevi
Foodie Fest
09.09 Sunday
Feta o ae i pulente
Obala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice. Try a Dalmatian
specialty which is prepared and cooked along the Vodice
Riva according to traditional recipes. aa is a tasty salsa
type sauce served on palenta - grounded cornmeal boiled
in water; add to that some local spices and this was the
favourite of all meals amongst farmers in the good old
days. Q Starts at 19:00
Traditional bull fighting at one of the village Olympics in Dalmatinska zagoras towns such as Radoi, visitors can always
devour local gastronomy such as the popular lamb on the spit. Photo by Goran Radin, www.dalmatia-pictures.com
Summer 2013
25
26
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
International
Symbol key
Highlander D-2, Pribislavia 1, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55
P Air conditioning
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
E Live music
M Nearby metro station
G Non-smoking
J Old Town location
S Take away
W Wifi
Traditional
Barun Podsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 66. Based
in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the
Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with
views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solariss bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms
and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form
the mainstay of the menu, although its the pasta dishes that
bring many in-the-know ibenik diners out this far. Q Open
11:00 - 23:00. September, October Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (85 - 180kn). PALGBW
Dalmatino D-2, Fra Nikole Ruia 1, tel. (+385-) 091
542 48 08. A classic tavern set in the heart of town with
rustic items used as dcor. Konobe or village taverns,
typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this
eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent
fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways. Q Open
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 110kn). JNGBXW
Gradska straa E-2, Uskoka 12, tel. (+385-22) 20
03 36. Located on the waterfront in the Old Town, this adorable little restaurant has Mediterranean written all over the
menu. Recommendations include goulash, stews, beef, cod,
tripe, pasta, eel, stuffed peppers and more. The A La Carte
menu is nifty too as are the typical wines from the ibenik
area. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 130kn). JNGBW
Kanela E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 5, tel. (+385-22)
21 49 86. A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly
more on the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most
traditional of the eating establishments along ibeniks Riva,
with an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns.
Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an open
hearth thats visible at the back of the dining room. Veal or
octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on offer if
you order well in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. (50 - 110kn). PJNGBXW
Nostalgija E-2, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385-22) 20 02
17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06. Its a family affair and youll
feel like youre part of the Ujevi kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and very affordable menu where brunch
sandwiches will get you prepped for your day out and dinner
includes risotto, gnocchi, pasta, and fish galore. Rustic interior is grand, open till late, has WIFI and an outdoor patio. Q
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (22 - 55kn). GBXW
Pelegrini B-3, Jurja Dalmatinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21
37 01, rudi.s@si.t-com.hr, www.pelegrini.hr. Occupying
a renovated medieval building just up the steps from ibenik
Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone
historical authenticity and contemporary design cool. Bruschetta, home-made ravioli and risotto number among the light
snacks and starters, while the mains feature a lot of recipes
that mix modern fusion (Teriyaki trout) with Adriatic tradition
(red mullet with lentils). The wine list is extensive and offers
plenty of choice when it comes to ordering by the glass. High
quality cuisine and service, deservedly high prices. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 140kn). PJAGBXW
Rivica E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 3, tel. (+385-22)
21 26 91. Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Rivica is a
traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and
smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The
grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the
seafood pasta dishes are excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(40 - 140kn). PAGBW
Tomaseo E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 3, tel. (+38522) 21 92 54. A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace
while taking in the view of the ibenik Channel. Mains and
desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (65 - 120kn). AGBXW
Uzorita K-1, Bana Josipa Jelaia 58, tel. (+385-22)
21 36 60, tonisupe@yahoo.com, www.uzorita.com.
Established in 1898, at Uzorita everything is still done the
old-fashioned way. The wine and olive oil are home produced,
and even the mussels are farmed by the proprietor. Along with
tradition, this place chucks in a pile of earthy innovation and
a whole lot of character: your fish soup may be cooked over
an open fire, but if theres a large party the mussels may be
prepared in a cement mixer! Award-winning, legendary, and
well worth the walk from the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
(40 - 200kn). PAGB
Zlatna ribica Krapanjskih spuvara 46, Brodarica, tel.
(+385-22) 35 03 00, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatnaribica.hr. Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location
decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor
trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an
appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing
in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed
according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled
tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn
each. With light jazzy music in the background, its the ideal
place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn). PALGBXW
67. Restaurant ambience with original Dalmatian iconography

interwoven amid the rustic interior. With over 120 dishes on
the menu, good luck choosing your meal and where to sit as
dining is available indoors, out on the square or on the terrace.
Their wine list is second to none when it comes to the finest
local and national drop. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00.
Stari Grad E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 7, tel. (+385-)
091 765 91 29. For a tasty meal that wont break the bank
right in the heart of ibenik, head right along to this simple
little spot. As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range
of meat and fish dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 23:30. (35 - 90kn). BXW
RESTAURANT - PANSION
Quick eats
Buffet Penkala M-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 11, tel. (+385-
22) 21 98 69. With functional surroundings enlivened by

a huge fountain pen stuck to the back wall (a reference to
Slavoljub Penkala, the Zagreb-based inventor of the fountain
pen), this low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of
home-style cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe),
faol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). G
Buffet imun M-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+38522) 21 26 74. Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly
orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like
bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid,
paticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian
lunchtime standards. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
(20 - 57kn). NG
Marenda D-1, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/
(+385-) 091 893 60 30. A tiny room selling fishy snacks
of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd
bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a
small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside.
Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served
from the barrel. And dont be surprised if they suddenly start
singing. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. September,
October Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
(18 - 45kn). JNGB
McDonalds P-4, Dalmare centar, Velimira korpika 23,
tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, sibenik@hr.mcd.com, www.
mcdonalds.hr. Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when we just cant live without those golden arches.
Dip your nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (7 - 35kn). AGBX
eula A-3, Obala prvoboraca 14. Sandwich, burger and
fry-up bar on the seafront keeping ibeniks nocturnal revelers
happy with late-night take-away munchies. QOpen 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (15 - 55kn). BW
Brodarica
TUDI d.o.o.
K. Spuvara 46, 22 010 Brodarica - ibenik t CROATIA
tel.: +385 22 350 695, 350 300
tudic@si.t-com.hr
w w w.zlatna-ribica.hr
Dobro doli t Welcome

Summer 2013
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Out of town
Antonijo Obala kneza Domagoja bb, Rogoznica,
tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54,
restoran_antonijo@net.hr. Sheltered by a clutch of palm
trees at the end of Rogoznicas riva, Antonio offers the whole
gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to
succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish
inbetween. Dalmatinska prolica (pork chop with garlic)
serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad
interior is small and intimate, although chances are youll
end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa
yachting marina across the water. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 200kn). PAGBXW
Boba Butina 20, Murter. Bobas large contemporarystyle dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books
crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on
which food is prepared - delivering a blast of deliciously
charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the
fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto
and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if
you order it a few hours in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(65 - 130kn). PAGBW
Bonaca Rokovaa 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44,
bonacaskradin@net.hr. Skradins emergence as one of Dalmatias leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal
to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary
traditions and only using the freshest ingredients - the owner
is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes
kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such
as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric
interior features exposed stone and brick with nauticallythemed pictures on the walls, and theres an outdoor terrace
looking down towards Skradin marina. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 130kn). JAGBXW
Broica Put Broice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81
11. A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior,
wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered
conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish
and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials
offering excellent value for money. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(28 - 110kn). PAGB
Brzilovi Put Broice 7, Tisno. For fast food Dalmatian
style, this little place on Murter really cant be beaten. Open
in July and August only, fried small fish, squid and chips are
served from a little stand shaped like a rowing boat. Great
for a light evening meal, prices range from 15kn for fried fish
to 40kn for squid with chips. Q July, August Open 18:00 23:00. (15 - 40kn).
By Gute Mirka Zore bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201
75 93. In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is
one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with
wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult
restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in
season. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PGBXW
Cantinetta Aleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel.

(+385-) 091 150 64 34, cantinetta.skradin@gmail.com,
www.cantinetta-skradin.com. This family restaurant set in
a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation
on the back of locally-influenced dishes such as rabbit stew
and roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class.
Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski riot (risotto with veal) that
you are advised to order it at least a day in advance. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW
igraa Uvala igraa, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 46 19
87, cigrada@gmail.com. With a terrace running along the
side of cicada-serenaded igraa bay, this is probably the
most romantically-situated of Murters restaurants. The food
is first class too, with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared
to a high standard and backed up by potent local wines.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 130kn). ABX
Fabro abieva bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61,
damir.mudronja@si.t-com.hr. With tables and chairs set
out along one of Murters many small-boat piers, Fabro is
the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. It can be
quite hot and sunny here well into early evening although as
night falls it is a wonderfully romantic place to dine. If you are
traveling out of season the small and intimate dining room,
decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend
an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the
show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). PAGBX
Fast food Griz Artina bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 15
23. Perfect for on your feet eating. Choose a sandwich (hamand-cheese, prut, kulen or something fishy) and they will
toast it and slap in a few salady things. Right in the centre of
town by the bus station. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. September,
October Open 06:00 - 24:00. (15 - 30kn). NB
Gina Put Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, gina@
gina.hr, www.gina.hr. Offering restful outdoor eating in a
tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is
the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the
sun set over Murters humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main
attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the
menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 150kn). PNGBXW
Kamenar Rudina biskupa J. Arneria 5, Primoten, tel.

(+385-22) 57 08 89, info@restaurant-kamenar.com,
www.restaurant-kamenar.com. An old stone house with a
smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination
of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A
range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the
light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either
grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide
ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner.
Local Babi wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white
Poip from Korula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest
fish. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (40 - 190kn). PAGBXW
Lamb
Marin Kapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70.
Standing beside a major junction on the main Zadaribenik road (its right opposite the turn-off to Murter
island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stopoffs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here
to sample the spit-roast lamb - a specimen can usually
be seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the
car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a
mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean
and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The
menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). AGBXW
Torcida Donje polje 42, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22)
56 57 48, info@restoran-torcida.hr, www.restorantorcida.hr. This ibenik institution is on the Split road
that leads through Boraje. You can choose succulent lamb
peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but dont
miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your
Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PALGBW
Kod Baje Mate Grubiia 14, Drni, tel. (+385-22) 88

79 40. This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot
serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared
from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver
and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in
(thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills,
stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local
delicacies such as Drni prut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz miine (sheeps cheese matured in a
bag made from intestines) - a combined platter of the two is
Drnis version of gastronomic heaven. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00,
Sun 07:00 - 13:00. (30 - 50kn). PNG
Makina Ive Juriev Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44
00 15, vodice.makina@gmail.com, www.makina-vodice.
com. Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a
traditional Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of
traditional Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a pekastyle metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured
pastas. The adjoining Makina Exit Night Club is a popular spot
for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live music
acts generating a party atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(25 - 150kn). PJAGBXW
Mediteran Put briga 13, Primoten, tel. (+385-) 098
44 59 45, u.o.mediteran@si.t-com.hr, www.mediteranprimosten.hr. A walled courtyard with an open kitchen,
Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled
fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. Its also an
intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side
of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the
house wine - Babi from the familys own vineyard. QOpen
13:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). AGBXW
Nono Trg domovinskog rata 5, Pirovac. Occupying a back
yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged
dining space, Nono supplies good-quality seafood in an
environment that is quirkily rustic but not overburdened with
kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the
Summer 2013
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RESTAURANTS
farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to

marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several
hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under
a charcoal-covered lid. Its a family-run place and the wine and
proek come from their own vineyard. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 150kn). AGBX
Pini Dr. Franje Tumana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 099 730
16 15, pini@pini.hr, www.pini.hr. Good home cooking in
an interior that blends traditional bare stone with modern
minimalist design touches, or in the walled garden with its
open kitchen. There is a good selection of grilled meats and
fish, with locally caught local mullet or peka-baked squid
the stand-out dishes. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (45 - 120kn).
PAGBXW
Santa Maria Kamila Pamukovia 9, Vodice, tel.
(+385-22) 44 33 19/(+385-) 098 21 98 69, santamariavodice@yahoo.com, www.santamaria-vodice.com.
Tortillas, tacos and burritos alongside pastas and steaks,
please everyone. Engaging bits of bric-a-brac fill the dining
room, with old cash tills, model boats, domestic implements
and a confusion of paintings and photographs. QOpen 13:00
- 24:00. October Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
(70 - 140kn). PAGBXW
imun Ulica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60
04. This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by
the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes,
fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure.
Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among
the principal culinary draws. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (100 200kn). GBXW
Spalato Obala Vladimira Nazora 14, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 14 14/(+385-) 091 221 46 37, spalatogo@
gmail.com. A bright and welcoming Riva-side restaurant
diagonally opposite the ferry jetty, with a serviceable range
of pizzas, fishes, steaks, and home-style lunchtime favourites
such as paticada (stewed steak in prune sauce). QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. October Open 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn).
PAGB
Tic Tac Hrokeina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/
(+385-) 098 86 46 19, info@tictac-murter.com, www.
tictac-murter.com. The closest that Murter comes to a
cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in
the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary
twist to Croatias traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish
and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu,
although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.
RESTAURANTS
With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the
nearby seafront its an atmospheric place for evening dining,
although it can be difficult to find a table in season. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 200kn). PAGBXW
Torkul Crnica 1, Primoten, tel. (+385-22) 57 06 70/
(+385-) 098 33 75 15. Located at the mainland end of the
causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches
and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac
(including among other things nautical photographs, a life
belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among
the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably
octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the
time to call in and order it in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(70 - 120kn). AGBXW
Tunga Re Turinova 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50
28/(+385-) 098 929 79 43. Summer-only restaurant set
back from the seafront in a small stone house - you may well
have to wait before being seated. Most people come here
for the tasty pizzas, although there is plenty of choice on a
menu that also takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). NGBX
Tvrava Tvrava bb, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 31 55/
(+385-) 091 465 48 97. Knins sole charming restaurant
is right at the entrance to the towns one main sight, lodged
in the former gatehouse of Knin fortress. Grilled meats,
pork chops and roast lamb are served up in a characterful
two-floor building, with an appealingly grassy outdoor terrace offering some stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(25 - 90kn). ABW
Vidrovaa Vidrovaa bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-)
098 75 72 81, vidrovaca@gmail.com, www.vidrovaca.
com. Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatically-situated Vidrovaa is well-nigh inaccessible unless you
have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small
pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk
as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish,
scampi and squid. Local meats (including kid goat) baked
under a peka are also on the menu, although they should
be ordered a few hours in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 300kn). NGB
Zameo ih vjetar Hrvatskih vladara 5, Murter, tel.
(+385-22) 43 44 75, zameoihvjetar@hotmail.com. Announcing itself as a marisqueria (a Spanish term meaning
seafood bar) in big letters above the entrance, Gone with
the Wind is a moderately upmarket establishment serving
up fresh shellfish and crustaceans in smart, uncluttered
Wine Tasting
Vinoplod
T h e win e-makin g
cooperative responsi bl e for b o t tlin g
many of the regions
best-known wines,
including the ruby-red
Babi, has several
locations in which individuals and groups
can buy the Vinoplod
product. One of them
occupies the ground
floor of a stone house
diagonally opposite
ib enik Ca th e dral
(St James Souvenir
Shop, C-3, Republike
Hrvatske 2, tel. 022
21 37 77. Q Open
08:00 - 22:00).
surroundings. You can inspect the fare in tanks and trays

before you actually order. The large and leafy walled garden
at the back is an evocative spot in which to linger over a meal.
QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. (30 - 150kn). AGB
Zlatka Grgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098
905 39 09. If Skradins culinary traditions leave you cold (or
simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatkas trusty
and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat
and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant
rosemary bushes. The family-recipe paticada (Dalmatian
stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 85kn). PANGBXW
Zlatne koljke Grgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+38522) 771 022, zlatneskoljke@inet.hr, w w w.zlatneskoljke.com. A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the
seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed
dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots.
A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish
and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the
slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure to leave
room for the owners own-recipe skradinska torta. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). PAGBW
Islands
Aldura Zlarinska obala 8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36
28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75. Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura

is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the ibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the
headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood
pastas, grilled chops and fresh fish in an atmospheric old
building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (45 - 140kn). NBXW
Dalmata Obala I 68, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 11 42/
(+385-) 095 906 14 07. This is a traditional island tavern
with a menu covering a customary selection of simple grilledmeat dishes alongside a broader range of seafood. Main
courses range from inexpensive options like breaded hake
fillet (pohani osli) to finger-licking, push-the-boat-out delicacies like scampi and lobster. Choose between the small and
cosy interior with large, curiously-shaped seashells hanging
from the timber-beamed ceiling, or wooden-bench seating a
canopied terrace overlooking the sea shore. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (50 - 80kn). NGBXW
Feta Uvala Golubovac, Otok ut - Kornati, tel. (+38522) 64 31 90, 64 33 78/(+385-) 099 347 35 19, 098
42 52 29, restoran-festa@zut.hr, www.zut.hr. In the ACI
marina on the island of ut, this restaurant run by the Mudronja family mixes the standard repertoire of main-course
fish and lobster with innovative starters such as conger-eel
pate and various fish carpaccios. Home-baked bread and a
well-stocked wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit.
The restaurant also has a small shop selling groceries and
other supplies to yachtsfolk. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (100 700kn). AGBXW
Four lions Zlarinska obala 15, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55

36 21, four.lions@hi.t-com.hr, www.4lionszlarin.com.
Attached to Zlarins only hotel is this big dining area spread
beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with plenty
thats freshly-caught it functions as a caf too, with chairs
and tables right by the waterside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(40 - 90kn). NGBXW
Kapelica Obala 45, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00
93. Traditional food in an old green-shuttered house in an
alleyway just off the shore, to the left of the ferry landing. The
interior features lots of homely red brick, and an open hearth
for grilling and baking traditional fish dishes. The big list of
desserts includes a lot more than the usual pancake fare.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). NGBX
Opat Luke 47, Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473
25 50, www.opat-kornati.com. Located in a stone house
above the shore in Kornat islands Opat bay, this is another
well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you
might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table
for the evening. Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare
seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood
has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn). NGBX
ut ACI Marina ut, ut Island, Kornati National Park,
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, romano.milutin@gmail.
com, www.restoran-zut.com.hr. Also in uts ACI marina,
ut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by
shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a
peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and
lobster are among the specialities. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 110kn). AGB
Beer halls
Lira D-3, Trg P.ubia 1, tel. (+385-) 098 131 44 57. Recently opened beer house very much in the heart of ibenik!
Sizeable area with food and drinks served and beer available
on tap. Live music indoors QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. BW
Italian
Gastro Italiano Podsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris
Beach Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94, (+385-)
091 490 99 88, ante.petricevic@si.t-com.hr. Si
signor! Sizzling wood oven gourmet pizzas and other Italian specialties as well as traditional Croatian delicacies
dominate the menu; that can all be trickled down with a
fine choice of wines. Located close to the Hotel Solaris
Resort. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (45 - 110kn). BXGW
Summer 2013
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32
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE
Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt
Sv. Lovre (The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence) C-2, Strme stube 1,
tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.

spg.hr. If you value your daily coffee break as your personal
moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings
than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility, the
gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and
you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating
miserably in a pickle jar. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JABX
Trapula B-3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Named after a
trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant caf-bar on
the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction
tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled
beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the
background music covers familiar international pop-rock
territory. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. September, October Open
08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PBXW
Leopold Rudina 1, Murter. Much favoured by the locals
Azimut Club B-3, Obala palih omladinaca 2, azimut@
Out of town
Giro espresso D-2, Zagrebaka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31

01 66, giroespresso@gmail.com. One of central ibeniks
best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily
decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys
and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket
seats. Its one of the most popular places in town for a midday
caffeine-fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting
crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun
08:00 - 14:00. PGBXW
Gradska vijenica C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel.
(+385-22) 21 36 05, ivo.mocic@si.t-com.hr. With outdoor
seating underneath the arches of ibeniks Renaissance
town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike
love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with
the citys cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside,
salmon-pink dcor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura
of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot,
and its always worth trying out the cake of the day. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. JGBXW
Kazalina kavana D-1, Kralja Zvonimira 1. Round the
side of the municipal theatre and with photographs of past
performances covering the walls, the Theatre Caf is a
pleasant and relaxing place in which to linger over a coffee.
With inlaid bench seating and soft puffy cushions, it is chic in
an unobtrusive way. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PJBXW
Moderato Cantabile F-1, Stjepana Radia 1, tel.
(+385-22) 21 20 36. Named after one of the best-known
songs by the ibenik-born melody-master Arsen Dedi (see
p.00), this roomy caf is something of a classic in its own
right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but
comfortable spaces within. After recently receiving a face
lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of
recharging batteries over a brew. The landscaped terrace
is spacious and picturesque! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun
07:00 - 13:00. PNGBXW
Hangin Out
for that all-important first coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numerous coffee breaks taken subsequently
throughout the day) Leopolds corner-of-the-square position
makes it the ideal spot to keep track of comings and goings
during the day - and provides a front-row view of the nightlyparade of sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the
town in summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and
chic elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murters
other bars in the design stakes too. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
PBXW
Mirage Vukovarska 2, Knin. A popular meeting place
day and night, Knins premier caf-bar is cheerful and chic
in equal measure, with easy chairs the colour of orange peel
arranged around circular black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling
curving window looking out onto the main street below. If you
cant squeeze into a seat here then the similar Caf Baltazar,
in the same building, is a worthy alternative. QOpen 07:00 23:00. PBXW
Popaj Dr. Franje Tumana 24, Primoten. O f all
Primotens cafs this is the one that comes nearest to
your favourite friends living room, with a bright front space
decorated with an odd but comfortable mixture of random
furnishings. The garden patio with wicker chairs surrounded
by lush Mediterranean plants is a real piece of paradise. The
choice of background music (from Leonard Cohen to loungebar beats) is on the classy side too. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
PNBXW
Vodopija Trg Rudina 2/b, Murter. This main-square caf
serves reassuringly strong coffee and delightfully soft and
springy krafne (doughnuts), which come either with marmalade filling or with chocolate icing. In summer they also have
a substantial menu of ice cream, and a large outdoor terrace
perfect for evening drinking. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JGB
artim.hr. This is the new kid on the block and is choc a bloc
filled with detail, great ambience, old retro furniture, inner
garden and more. Live concerts held each night with exhibitions and theatre thrown in between. Fits up to 400 guests
so squeeze in and as the inner slogan says, Find your way.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.
Chill out E-2, Biskupa Fosca 4, tel. (+385-) 095 538 82
14. Red cheeks and smoky lips with steam blazing from your
ears is what you may get when trying one of the 30 rakijas
this bar has on offer. Authentically produced, these potent
shots are great to kick the night off. Super cool interior with
catlike patterns to help cool off! Dont forget the rakija and coffee cocktails which are an added hit! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. B
Domino B-3, Obala prvoboraca 17. This functional waterfront rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and
homely by a combination of low-key lighting, garden-style
wicker furnishings, and a pop-rock menu of background
music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not
so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is mildly older than that at the nearby
Point (see below) but not so long in the tooth that they have
lost their appetite for a good party. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PEBXW
Pivnica Toni D-2, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22)
21 78 60. If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while
listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a
good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the
place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local
music-fan fraternity: the walls are covered in ibenik-related
pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen
Dedi, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mio
Kova, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never
quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is reserved
for sporting heroes, with ibenik-born basketball icon Draen
Petrovi (see p.10) hogging the limelight. The outdoor terrace
is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on summer
evenings. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00. (15 - 40kn). NGBW
Point bar B-3, Obala prvoboraca 10. Favoured gathering
point of ibeniks young and slinky, the appropriately stylish
Point boasts a cool-as-a-cucumber colour scheme comprising
whites, slate greys and metallic blues. Oil paintings of dancing
girls in pink dresses hint at an innocent kind of naughtiness.
DJs put the sound system through its paces at weekends,
while a trio of television screens embedded in the walls ensure
that if there is a match on you wont miss any of the action.
DJs booked to spin discs at the Aurora down the coast in
Primoten frequently appear here for a meet-and-greet on
the night before or after. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PEBX
Summer 2013
33
34
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Aurora Kamenar 3, Primoten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19
Regius Festival Archives
Skipper A-3, Obala prvoboraca 12. Slightly cooler and
less frantic than some of the youngster-frequented bars

further east along the Riva, Skipper is a smartly decorated
and warmly intimate bar, with a nice mixture of white and
wine-red furnishings and a strange blue-neon glow coming
from under the tables. There is a decent choice of beers in
bottles, cocktails in the 35-45kn range, and a something-foreveryone mixture of RnB pop and adult rock on the sound
system. Comfy chairs and benches are spread across the
outdoor terrace. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. PEBX
Vino&Ino C-1, Fausta Vrania bb, tel. (+385-) 091 152
23 32, nikola@vinoiino.hr, www.vinoiino.hr. A wine bar
that houses over 60 wines from all parts of Croatia and is
loyal to wines from the ibenik area in particular. What gives
it that extra edge is that everything inside is Croatian made,
therefore the owners also promote and sell products by
several young Croatian artists (jewellery, clothes, sun glasses
etc). The scent of coffee also prevails as the store promotes
Croatian coffee, coffee cups and teaspoons. QOpen 09:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AGBXW
64, booking@auroraclub.hr, www.auroraclub.hr. Set on

a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatial-looking
balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into
one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and
an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming.
Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primoten
experience. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. July 13 - August
25 Open 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. ALGBXW
Hookah bar Hotel Olympia Beach, Vodice. Beach bar in
front of the Olympia hotel with armchairs and couches set
out on wooden decking beneath the pines, with the billowing
curtains of its baldachins looking rather like a shoal of jellyfish.
Its the prime place for after-beach parties, with DJs and live
musicians starting up in the late afternoon and never seeming
to stop. Its a popular place to see and be seen and the best
tables are frequently grabbed by posing wannabes, but there
is always some brazen hedonistic fun going on somewhere.
Q June - September 15 Open 08:00 - 02:00. AXW
Kreimir Majinova 5, Murter, tel. (+385-) 095 600 07
77. This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light
lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten varieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar its a tempting last port of call
for those who just cant resist the idea of one for the road.
Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 02:00. PABX
Lantana Uvala igraa, Murter. Crouching above the
corner of igraa bay is this improvised building that looks
a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath
a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set
higgledy-piggledy on sloping ground underneath pine trees.
There is a wood-burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple
menu of prut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as
girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and
rock gigs during the summer. Q May 15 - October 15 Open
10:00 - 24:00. N
Makina Exit Herfordska bb, Vodice. A well-patronized
party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music
on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters
in, although you might equally stumble into a Croatian pop
evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs
that you dont understand. Q June 14 - September 30 Open
23:00 - 05:00. PNBX
Out of town
Admiral Uvala Soline bb, Marina Frapa, Rogoznica,
www.marinafrapa.com. A circular space with chairs, private
booths and high stools arranged around a central dance floor
and performance area, this club offers a full and varied programme, with DJs spinning different musical styles on different
nights of the week, live gigs, swanky fashion events, and racy
cabaret shows that verge on what might be euphemistically
termed adult entertainment. The open-air swimming pool
directly above the club functions as a groovy outdoor lounge
bar until midnight, providing the perfect place for a pre-club
warm up. Q June 29 - September Open 23:00 - 04:00. PG
Club nights
04.08 Sunday
White Night by Amsterdam
Hookah Bar, Vodice. This is one night that Amsterdam

comes to Vodice. See some of the best resident DJs
from the Dutch citys club scene including Funkerman.
Dress code is white. It includes video projections and a
light show to spruce up the night.
Opium Herfordska bb, Vodice, www.opium-vodice.com.
This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside
the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and
hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs.
Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. September 16 - October Open Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 05:00. BXW
Reful Sabuni 11, Murter. An inviting purple and blue
rectangle with a big pool table and classic-rock background
music, Reful is a welcome antidote to the mainstream sonic
wallpaper on offer elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor
tables on a raised terrace looking towards Hramina beach,
and wifi internet is available for 10kn/hr. Live blues and rock
bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when the
alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage. Q Open
07:00 - 02:00. September 16 - October Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PEBXW
The Legends Pub Trg Don Ive aria 1, Primoten, tel.
(+385-) 091 333 33 13, info@thelegendspub.com, www.
thelegendspub.com. Occupying a roomy stone house just
opposite Primotens causeway, Legends features the kind
of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that
makes a pub a pub - or at least in the mind of a European
holidaymaker. The semi-circular balcony hovering above the
bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs
of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz,
blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with
crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer. Q
Open 12:00 - 05:00. October Open Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00.
PJEGBW
Woodstock Lovaki trg, Drni. Drni may never quite
make it as rock and roll capital of the world but Caf Woodstock certainly mounts an honourable bid at the title. The
interior walls are covered with all manner of photos featuring
Elvis, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison and a fair selection of less
mainstream musical names - this is quite possibly the only

place in ibenik County where you will ever see a framed
Frank Zappa album cover hanging beside the door to the
toilets. Semicircular booths with purple PVC seats make this
a cool and comfy venue to spend an hour or two. QOpen
07:00 - 01:00. BX
Flirting in Croatian
Men: have you ever been
reduced to tears after a yet
another withering put-down
from a cucumber-cool Croatian female? Never fear;
help is now at hand. A new
book, written by Laura Lui
and Jelena Primorac, is a
humorous guide for foreigners filled with chat-up lines
harvested from their chums
in Croatia, Bosnia and all
over the world, translated
into Croatian and ready for
you to try out (at your peril!)
Its available on Amazon and from selected shops in
Croatia. You get the code to an online MP3 version so
you can listen and repeat in fine language-school style. A
guide for girls is coming soon, and if youve got a special
line for hooking the chappies youd like to contribute,
send the girls a mail on info@flirtingincroatian.com.
Summer 2013
35
36
WHAT TO SEE
WHATTO
TO SEE
SEE
WHAT
Essential ibenik
Bunari - Secrets of ibenik (Bunari - Tajne
ibenika) Obala palih omladinaca 2, B-2, tel. (+385-)
095 591 23 19. Built at the same time as the ibenik

Cathedral, in order to provide citizens with a secure supply
of water in case of siege, the stone building known as the
Four Wells (etiri bunara) is now the atmospheric venue
for a multimedia museum of urban history. This year, additional content has enriched these sources of water, as
has a fascinating new aquarium, and as well as artefacts
depicting the maritime history and seabed of the Adriatic
Sea. See a representation of 16th century inventor Faust
Vrani descending via the parachute he (allegedly) tried
out in Venice, models of ibeniks famous buildings, and a
wall-filling photograph of local-born basketball player Draen
Petrovi. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.
Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Svetog Jakova) C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. With its pale
stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus

bulb, ibeniks magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating
presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a
sense the church here is as old as ibenik itself, although it
is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431
that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today.
Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place
in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasnt officially
consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many
of the Adriatics finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for
the cathedrals most innovative features, the barreled roof
and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.
Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction,
the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery
of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The
north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of
Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts
in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the
backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino
of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in
to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died
before the reconstruction really got going. Much more
refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the
outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a
frieze of 71 stone heads - which appear to pop out of the
wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on
ibenik characters of Dalmatinacs acquaintance, they are
uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and
have served as something of a trademark for the city of
ibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs
unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist,
Juraj Dalmatinac.
Youll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the
statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of
Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing
a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the
sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the
western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also
by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin.
Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj igori
with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic
crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrovi, fifteenth-century Canon
of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinacs greatest masterpiece is
the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedrals corner, which

features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs
cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: June
- August 31 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00.
September - May 31 09:00 and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00
and 19:00. Q Open 09:30 - 19:30. Admission 5 - 15kn.
ibenik City Museum (Muzej grada ibenika)
C-3, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, tajnistvo@

muzej-sibenik.hr, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. A narrow alley,
behind the apse of the cathedral, leads to the 17th century
Rectors Palace, from where the representative of the
Venetian Republic would watch over ibeniks affairs. It is
now home to the City Museum which only reopened its door
for permanent displays after a demanding 22 year break
for renovations. Exhibited artefacts are divided into four
periods: Prehistory, Antique, Late Antiquity and the Middle
Ages. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 30kn, Sat free.
St Michaels Fortress (Tvrava svetog Mihovila)
B-1. One of the first things that visitors see when entering
ibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michaels Fortress,
which crowns the pyramidal hill above ibeniks Old Town.
Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the
number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought
their court here - Petar Kreimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in
1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Kreimirs visit
that ibenik was first mentioned in official documents,
which explains why the city is sometimes known to this
day as Kreimirs Town. Although not much more than
a bare shell nowadays, the fortress is open to the public
and the views from the parapet are really quite splendid.
Its the ideal viewpoint from which to admire the unique
stone-slab roof of ibenik cathedral, with the terracotta tiles
of ibeniks other buildings spreading out on either side.
Oldest surviving parts of the fortress are the square towers on the eastern side. Running downhill from the fortress
towards the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls
built in the 15th century to provide access to the sea. At
the moment the fortress is under construction and closed,
but it is expected that one part of it is opened for visitors
at the start of the June.
The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden

of St Lawrence (Srednjovjekovni samostanski
mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre) C-2, Strme stube 1,
tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.

spg.hr. Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Ki and
maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of ibeniks most popular
attractions since opening its gates in 2007. Occupying an
oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Lawrences church
and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide
an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery
garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The
collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and
reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly
practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were
both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit
trees and roses help to provide additional colour. There is
also a caf with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio. If
you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this
is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration. Q
Open 08:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.
Looking for more? Just click! sibenik.inyourpocket.com

King Petar Kreimir IV, ibenik Tourist Board Archives

ibeniks Old Town is a typical Mediterranean medieval
city, with a warren of pedestrianized alleyways and piazzas
overlooked by green-shuttered stone houses. Inaccessible to traffic, its narrow and frequently stepped streets
are left to pedestrians, cats, and the occasional moped.
ibeniks historical core is divided into three parts; the
Grad (literally Town), which stretches from the Cathedral
eastwards; Gorica, comprising the gently sloping streets
that stretch uphill towards St Michaels Fortress; and
Dolac, the maze of hillside alleys to the west. The Old
Town is entered from the large open square known as the
Poljana, from where the street now known as Zagrebaka
(sometimes called Masna ulica or Greasy Street due
to the number of inns that used to line it) heads through
Gorica towards the Fortress of St Michael, passing a quartet of historical churches on the way. Roughly parallel to
Zagrebaka is the street popularly known as the Kalelarga
(officially Kralja Tomislava), which slopes down towards
the Cathedral.
Churches
Church of Our Lady outside the Walls (Gospa van
grada) F-1, Fra Stjepana Zlatovia 14, tel. (+385-22)
21 25 77. Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century

church with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features
extravagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern
relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00,
Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00
and 20:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana) D-2, Put
igralita 21. This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is
famous for the balustraded staircase on the street-facing
side, said to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac. Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a
series of angels heads in relief form, while a severely eroded
lion stands guard at the bottom. The churchs four-storey
belfry boasts the towns oldest mechanical clock, made by

Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drni before being brought
to ibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the side altar
to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cherubs and skulls.
The church is closed for visitors.
Church of the Ascension (Crkva Uspenie Bogorodice) D-1, Boidara Petranovia 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 47
45. A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone

beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and
belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood of
Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Poor
Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned a major
rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added. The convent
was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the church was handed
over to the Orthodox congregation in 1808. It has been the
centre of ibenik Countys Orthodox community ever since.
Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the interior
contains an iconostasis studded with images of the Virgin
Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the addition
of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful modern mural of
Christ fills the apse.
Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre
productions in ibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares performed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings - the
roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun 09:00.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog Duha)
D-1, Dinko Zavorovi Square. Overlooking a small piazza,

this dainty 17th-century affair is one of central ibeniks most
attractive little churches, with arched roofline and a central
rose window. Half way up the faade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit in the title. The church is closed for visitors.
St Chrysogonus Church (Crkva svetog Krevana)
C-2, Ulica don Krste Stoia 16, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49.

ibeniks oldest surviving church, a Romanesque structure
devoted to an unpronounceable third-century Roman martyr,
Summer 2013
37
38
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
the cave near Lourdes in France where the Virgin is said to
have appeared to a local girl in 1858. Mass: June - August
31 19:00, Sun 08:30. September - October 31 18:00, Sun
08:30. Q Open by prior arrangement.
The New Church (Nova crkva) C-1, Ulica Nove Crkve.
Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is socalled because it was one of the last to be built within the
town walls. It was commissioned by one of ibeniks most
prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood of St
Mary. It is connected to the brotherhoods ceremonial hall on
the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: June - August
31 Sat 20:00. September - May 31 Sat 19:00. The church is
open only during mass.
ibenik for children

is currently used as a summer-only exhibition space by the
Town Museum - the tourist office will have details of whats on.
St Francis Church and monastery (Crkva i samostan svetog Frane) E-2, Trg Nikole Tomasea 1, tel.
(+385-22) 20 14 80. Belonging to ibeniks main Franciscan

Monastery, this church boasts Gothic origins but was given a
full Baroque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej
Ponun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar paintings. A doorway from the square just outside the churchs main
entrance leads through to the monastery courtyard, where
a row of stone buildings contain a range of displays dealing
with church history, and examples of the monastery librarys
rich collection of manuscripts and books. Mass 08:00 and
19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00. Mass in English can be
arranged by appointment. Q Open 07:30 - 20:00.
St Gregorys Church (Crkva svetog Grgura) B-2,
Ulica Jurja Dalmatinca. This cute Gothic church is tucked
into one of ibeniks oldest streets, right opposite the house
where architect Juraj Dalmatinac is thought to have lived. A
seasonally-open display devoted to Dalmatinacs life and work
now occupies the interior of the church.
St Lawrences Church (Crkva svetog Lovre) C-2,
Fra Andrije Kaia Mioia 11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00
09. Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a
monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of
Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre
of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669. One
of its former teachers was Andrija Kai-Mioi (1704-1760),
the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant Conversation
of the Slav People, one of the first popular histories of the
Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery along Kaieva
and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto, an artificial cave
holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was built in imitation of
Photo by eljko Krnevi
Aquarium ibenik D-2, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel.

(+385-) 099 212 58 19, aquarium.sibenik@gmail.
com, www.aquariumsibenik.com. Upon entering this old
stone house situated 50m from the Cathedral, embark on a
journey which brings to life the local residents of the Adriatic
Sea. Twenty aquariums give you a close up view of fish to
crustaceans, to sea stars and sharks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Admission 27 - 37kn.
In case you are going on vacation and taking your pet with you, they will be able to drink water from the medieval stone
bowl carved in the wall and created especially for dogs. Photo by Ivan Dimnjakovi, ibenik Tourist Board Archives
Aquarium ibenik
Happy Horse Farm (Kolan Horse Club) Nova V 5,
tel. (+385-) 098 936 03 04, farmahappyhorse@gmail.

com, www.kk-kolan.hr. Amidst other farm animals the
horses and ponies are the shining stars here. Visitors can
choose from supervised horse and cart rides to adult and
children rides. There is an open sports and recreation area
and cute souvenirs to make your stay a memorable one. Q
Riding 100 - 150kn/h.
Fortifications
The fortresses can be reached and can been seen,
entrance is free. St Nicholass Fortress can be reached by
sea or by road in the hinterland of Zablae.
St Johns Fortress (Tvrava svetog Ivana) L-2.
Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetancontrolled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to ward
off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example of 17thcentury military architecture, its star-shaped plan providing
any number of ideal angles for defensive artillery fire.
Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting bastions
surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly evergreen
trees.
Getting here from the centre of town is fairly easy: from the
main Kralja Zvonimira take Teaka then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right onto the steeply ascending
Put V. Manduia. Alternatively, drive as far as ubievac
(see below) and take the footpath from there. Once youre
here, the access path to the fortress itself leads through a

stepped gateway and out onto a grassy plateau, where there
are remains of barrack blocks, powder stores, World-War-II
gun positions and a modern radio mast. The views, taking
in St Michaels Fortress and the ibenik Channel, are well
worth the uphill walk.
St Nicholass Fortress (Tvrava svetog Nikole).
Jutting out into the St Anthonys Channel, the narrow neck
of water that leads from the ibenik Channel to the open sea,
the smooth-pointed triangle of St Nicholass Fortress is one
of the most elegant military buildings anywhere in the Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engineer Gian Girolamo
Sammicheli in the mid-16th century to protect ibenik from
Ottoman naval attacks. There are long-term plans to restore
the fortress and turn it into a museum centre, although for
the time being it remains something that can only be seen
from the deck of a passing ship. The dreamy sensation of
drifting past St Nicholass water-lapped bastions is certainly
well worth the price of a ticket on the ibenik-Vodice ferry.
ubievac Fortress (Tvrava ubievac) L-2.
Slightly to the southeast of St Johns fortress and linked by
footpath, ubievac was built at around the same time and is
in many ways a smaller, lower-down-the-hillside version of its
neighbour. ubievac used to be called Barone after Baron
Christoph Martin von Degenfeld (1599-1653), the noble-born
freebooter who fought under Austrian, Swedish, French and
Venetian flags in the course of a long and distinguished
military career. Named governor-general of Dalmatia in 1645,
he enjoyed three years of success against Ottoman armies
before retiring to family estates in southwestern Germany.
What remains of the fortress today is fairly disappointing,
with little to see save for a couple of semi-ruined buildings
covered in (startlingly graphic) vulgarities courtesy of the
local spray-can community. However the hilltop location is
still exhilarating enough to make a visit worthwhile. Theres
a viewing terrace with (pretty scruffy) park benches on top
of one of the jutting bastions, offering great views of central

ibenik with the lumpy offshore forms of Zlarin, Prvi and the
Kornati islands in the distance. Northwest of ubievac, on
the path towards St Johns Fortress, are the remains of more
World War II bunkers.
The ibenik Rebus
Photo frojm www.sebenika.com

D-2, Dobri. Dobri is one of the narrow stepped streets
that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards
the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down.
High up on the faade of one of the piazzas houses
is ibeniks most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle.
It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing
five symbols - birds wings, crossed scythes, two wine
flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The
artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a
mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs
as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the
dangers of drinking and gaming seems to be part of the
explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it
seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.
Summer 2013
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40
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
ubievac Park L-2, ubievac. For a taste of the arid
Mediterranean landscape that characterizes central Dalmatia
head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where
a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn
knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens.
Theres a kids playground near the entrance, and good views
over the south-eastern end of the city from the parks higher
reaches. Its also a good start or finishing point for those
exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and ubievac.
Religious Collections
Diocesian Museum (Dijecezanski muzej) D-2, Kralja
Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 99. This small but
engrossing collection is housed in the 15th-century Chapel
of St Barbara (Crkvica svete Barbare), just uphill from the
Cathedral. The building itself is a right little charmer, with a
quirky assymetrical belfry holding a trio of bells, and a 24-hour
clock gracing the faade. The statue of St Nicholas, also on
the faade, is the work of prolific 15th-century stonemason
Bonino of Milan. Most valuable of the works inside are a 15thcentury polyptich by Bla Jurjev of Trogir with Virgin and Child
flanked by angels and saints; and a polyptich of the Virgin Mary
with Saints - one of the few surviving pictures by local master
Nikola Vladanov (active 1409-1440). It was probably ordered
by one of ibeniks religious brotherhoods, which explains

why there are a large crowd of realistically-portrayed citizens
sheltering beneath the Virgins voluminous shawl. Q Open
June - August 31 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:30. September
Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.
Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of St Luce

(Benediktinski samostan Sv. Luce) C-2, Kaieva
bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Behind a plain green door on

Kaieva is one of ibeniks most absorbing attractions, filled
with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable
but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship
and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of
the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th
century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours
17th-century benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three
of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery
started. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.
Complete listing at
ibenik Falconry Centre

of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with
cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds
that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans. The
majority are successfully treated and returned to the wild.
Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any
birds currently kept in the Centres holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients),
a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face
with creatures that you would normally never see at such
close quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated
to displays of falconry.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 35 - 45kn.
The seventy-one human heads as crafted by the famous Croatian sculptor and builder Juraj Dalmatinac on the apsidal of
the ibenik Cathedral are a master-piece of Croatian sculpture. Photo by Ivan Dimnjakovi
Landmarks
Parks
The statue of Juraj Dalmatinac C-3, Trg Republike
Perivoj Robert Visiani E-1/2. Named after the ibenikborn 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out
in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was
demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen
trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all
year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage
provide waves of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was
once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (18021874), the ibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic
who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. Its
now the site of a statue of King Petar Kreimir IV.
Hrvatske. The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident

in ibenik from 1441 until his death over three decades later,
despite long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona
and elsewhere. ibenik folk regard him with justification as a
local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral is
very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as a
mark of respect for a great architect.
The statue of Petar Kreimir IV (1058-1074) E-2,
Perivoj Robert Visiani. King Petar Kreimir spent Christmas
1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which ibenik was
mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that
did so. For this reason, hes regarded as something of a
founding father by the locals.
Poljana E-1, Poljana. This broad irregularly shaped square
is very much modern ibeniks focal point. It began life as
the open space outside the town gates where horse races
and archery contests would take place. The squares most
distinguished building is the stately ochre ibenik Theatre,
built in 1870 and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor
Franz Joseph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875. On the other
side of the Poljana stands the boldly contemporary public
library, a wedge of modern glass and steel built onto the side
of a buttressed 16th-century bastion. Occupying a niche on
the side of the bastion is a statue of the citys protector,
demon-slaying Archangel Michael.
kugori bb, Dubrava kod ibenika, tel. (+385-) 091

506 76 10, sokolarski.centar@gmail.com, www.
sokolarskicentar.com. Located in woods near Dubrava
8km north of the city centre, the ibenik Falconry Centre
was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate
the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a
collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction.
The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most
ibenik Falconry Centre Town Hall (Gradska
vijenica) C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Running along

one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16thcentury Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed
by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the
aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia
now houses the Vijenica caf-restaurant, and also forms
the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual
ibenik Childrens Festival.
ibenik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Stipe urac
Summer 2013
41
42
LEISURE
Biking
There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on
the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly
popular draws.
In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from
Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin
to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site. There are a couple
of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer.
Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primoten, where a network of marked routes make
use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off-road trails to
explore ancient villages such as Draga, iroke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves.
Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the
archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well
as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.Tickets
can be purchased at the Vodice Tourist Office.
The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in
spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on
the roads.
At the northwestern end of ibenik county, the seaside
resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of
the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails
have been marked.
Barbara tours Grgura Ninskog 15a, Vodice, tel. (+385-)
098 962 56 67, boris.visic1@si.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00
- 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Dalmatinka Zagrebaka 8, Primoten, tel. (+385-22)
57 03 23, info@dalmatinka.hr, www.dalmatinka.hr. Q
June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open
08:00 - 21:00.
Eseker Majinova 14, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 56 69/
(+385-) 098 48 09 50, eseker01@yahoo.com, www.
esekertours.hr. Q June, Sepetember Open 08:00 - 21:00.
July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Mateo Skradin Obala bana Pavla ubia 6, Skradin, tel.
(+385-) 098 59 19 93. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Tudi tourist agency Krapanjskih spuvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, tudic@si.t-com.hr,
www.zlatna-ribica.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A
Visit Vodice irila i Metoda 1a, Vodice, tel. (+385-22)
44 21 01, (+385-) 091 330 78 05, www.visit-vodice.
com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 22:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
LEISURE
Big Game Fishing
Adriatic Big Game Nikola ubi Zrinski 2, Vodice,
tel. (+385-22) 44 16 60/(+385-) 098 923 50 26, info@

game-fishing-adriatic.com, www.game-fishing-adriatic.
com.
Fitness & Gym

Life Wellness Centre K-1, Bana Ivana Maurania
3, tel. (+385-22) 20 07 16, www.life.com.hr. Q June,
September Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun Open 15:00 - 22:00.
July - August 31 Open 08:00 -12:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A
Horse riding
Konjiki klub Pegasus Muii bb, Brodarica, tel.
(+385-) 091 506 92 34/(+385-) 091 585 32 31, pegasus@pegasus.hr, www.pegasus.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.
Rafting
Discover Dalmatia Tourist Agency Splitska 12,
Primoten, info@discover-dalmatia.hr, www.discoverdalmatia.hr. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00. A
Nautical Tourism
The island-scattered seas of mid-Dalmatia have always been
a major destination for nautical tourism, with the Kornati
islands in particular serving as an enduringly popular magnet
for yachting folk. Vodice is a major starting point for sailing
flotillas, with a large marina in the centre of the resort and
plenty of schools offering short sailing courses. Both Vodice
and the island of Murter are important jumping-off points for
sailing trips around the Kornati islands, a beautiful maritime
landscape that represents the holy grail of Croatian yachting.
Murter island has marinas at Murter town and Jezera (with
another marina being built at Tisno), while there are two more
marinas in the Kornati islands themselves.
Academia Navalis Adriatica Obala sv. Ivana, Jezera
(ACI MArina), Murter Island, tel. (+385-) 099 217 84
04/(+385-) 099 262 72 45, info@anasail.com, www.
anasail.com. Sailing school.
In 2012, the Jadrija Swimming Area celebrated its ninetieth anniversary as the oldest public beach facility in the city. Dressing
rooms and cabins have survived and been preserved to this day with locals and guests still swimming and using the facilities.
Photo 1 by Mario Marotty, Photo 2 from Goran Radin collection
Scuba Diving
Manta Huljerat bb, Primoten (Adriatic Auto Camp),
tel. (+385-) 098 44 32 83/(+385-) 091 447 70 22, aniska_marovic@hotmail.com, www.crodive.info. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
Mediterraneo Sub Grgura Ninskog 1, Vodice (Hotel
Punta), tel. (+385-) 091 539 40 07, mediteraneosub80@
hotmail.com, www.mediteraneosub.com. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00.
Najada Diving Put Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+385-22)
43 60 20, anna.nokela@najada.com, www.najada.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Vertigo Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-) 098 20
90 73, (+385-) 098 171 47 70, info@vertigo.hr, www.
vertigo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Vodice Dive Venca Vlahova 15, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098
919 62 33, vodice.dive@gmail.com, www.vodice-dive.
com QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Health
Dubravica Dental Centre II Stablinac 11, Vodice,
tel. (+385-22) 44 47 96, info@dental-centar-dubravica.

com, www.dental-centar-dubravica.com. Q Open Mon,
Thu 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 12:30, Sat on request. Closed
Sun. A
Polyclinic Analiza L/M - 2, Matije Gupca 93, tel. (+38522) 31 06 63, sibenik@mcanaliza.org, www.poliklinikaanaliza.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Polyclinic & Optics Ercegovi M - 3, Trg Draena
Petrovia bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 39 71, info@ercegovic.
hr, www.ercegovic.hr. Also at Dulcin 1, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 07 15. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. A
Sport events
29.06 Saturday - 30.06 Sunday
Regatta MDF (International Childrens Festival) ibenik.
Big Game Fishing Tournament
Vodice, www.mali-porat.org.
Vita Polyclinic L/M-2, Matije Gupca 93, tel. (+385-22)
31 26 44/(+385-22) 31 26 45, info@dijagnostika-vita.

hr, www.dijagnostika-vita.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
by request. Closed Sun.
Massage
Linija Z I - 1/2, Prokljanska 15, tel. (+385-22) 21 48
63, linija.z@si.t-com.hr, www.linija-z.hr. Q Open 09:00
- 11:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. A
Tanja Beauty Centre D - 2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel.
(+385-22) 21 21 97, tanja.perkov@gmail.com, www.
beauty-centar-tanja.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri 14:00 20:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Spa & Beauty

Life Wellness Centre K - 1, Bana Ivana Maurania 3,
tel. (+385-22) 20 07 16, www.life.com.hr. Q July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:30 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. September - June 30 Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 15:00 - 22:00. A
Solaris (Solaris Hotels Resort) Hotelsko naselje
Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 70, info@solaris.hr,
www.solaris.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
ibenik Beaches
Banj Join the locals on June 17 as they celebrate the
opening of a new beach in the heart of the city. The beach
is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities
such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball,
free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a
childrens playground, and more.
Jadrija Poking out to sea on the western side of St
Anthonys Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas,
the Jadrija peninsula is the site of ibeniks municipal
lido. During the summer months it can be reached via
hourly taxi boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the
municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor ime Grubii
Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an
old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms
and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.
Complete listing at www.sibenik.inyourpocket.com
43
44
GETTING AROUND
GETTINGAROUND
AROUND
GETTING
Train
Car rental
Main train station L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel.
Euro-san I/J-2, Ivana Metrovia 5, tel. (+385-22) 20
(+385-22) 33 36 99. Although ibenik is connected to

Perkovi on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent
a great way of getting around the county. Perkovi-Zagreb
trains do pass through the inland towns of Drni and Knin,
but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making day
trips by rail rather impractical. There is a caf at the station
(open 06:00-23:00), ticket office and information desk (Open
06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.
Ferries
Public transport
ibeniks municipal bus service is operated by Autotransport
ibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00.
Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs
from the city centre uphill to ubievac, passing the 16thcentury fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel
complex), and the no. 7 (to Brodarica, jump-off point for the
island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the
stop right beside the main market (trnica), where there is
a kiosk (open 07:30 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun)
selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch
out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most
lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn.
Autotransport d.d. G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 33
56 06, autotransport@atpsi.hr, www.atpsi.hr.
Taxi
The easiest way to get a cab is to call 21 96 66; otherwise
youll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the
Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare
is 40kn which includes the first five kilometers, followed by
10kn per kilometre, 5kn per baggage item. We recommend
that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price
for the first 5km.
ibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily ibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but
watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the
enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvi. The trip is a scenic
wonder, taking you through the ibenik canal and offering
fantastic views of the St Nicholas sea fort as you pass. Journey times are short, with the whole ibenik-Vodice journey
taking just over one hour. Further offshore, the islands of
Kaprije and irje are linked to the mainland less often and
take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently
accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of
these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you
cant take a car on board unless travelling on selected irje
services. The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier
on the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be
bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office
diagonally opposite the jetty. The island of Krapanj, just off
the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached
by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay
on board). Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to
the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the
tourist excursions operated by travel agencies in Murter and
Vodice - or with your own yacht.
Jadrolinija E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tumana 7, tel. (+38522) 21 34 68, www.jadrolinija.hr. During the other months
please check the Jadrolinijas Web site or give them a call to
check opening hours. QOpen 05:30 - 21:00.
Travel agencies
Cromovens C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 4, tel. (+38522) 21 25 15, cromovens@si.t-com.hr, www.cromovens.
hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August
Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Kola fjaka D-1, Grgura Ninskog 11, tel. (+385-22) 24
48 08/(+385-) 095 567 69 28, 098 67 88 77, info@
kola-fjaka.com, www.kola-fjaka.com. QOpen 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N
Nik L/M-3, Ante upuka 5, tel. (+385-22) 33 85 50,
sibenik@nik.hr, www.nik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Samoborek G-2, Draga 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 87 02, agsibenik@samoborcek.hr, www.samoborcek.hr. QOpen
07:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Slaptours L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22)
31 14 60, info@slaptours.hr, www.slaptours.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cesta dr. Franje Tumana 96, Katel tafili, tel. (+38521) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.
Zadar Airport (Zrana luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,
Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax (+385-23) 20 58 33,
info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr.
Looking for more? Just click!

Airport
Split Airport-Katela (Zrana luka Split-Katela)
All you need

to know
about where
to sleep, eat,
drink, visit
and enjoy
Parking
ibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Zadar
airport to the northwest and Split airport to the southeast.
Main Bus Station G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 368
15 55/(+385-) 091 726 65 35, petak@petak.hr, www.

petak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
ibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street
parking is split into four zones where parking is charged
1 June - 1 September at rates ranging between 3 and 10
kn per hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day
tickets at 67 - 165 kn. Parking tickets can be purchased
by the hour using your mobile phone: simply send a message with your car registration number as the text to the
number shown on the parking meter.
There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga
district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while
the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices
are 6 - 10kn/hour.
Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might
get towed away by the city authorities and impounded
at the address Velimira korpika 5, at a place euphemistically named Sluba za premjetanje vozila - the
Service for relocating vehicles. How benign! They will
kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment
of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in
the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, closed Sun. If you spot the
car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto
a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or
spider, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn.
More information on tel. 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23
or pauk@gradski-parking.hr
Gradski parking G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22)
21 22 05, info-parking@gradski-parking.hr, www.
gradski-parking.hr.
Buses
368. ibenik county is reasonably well covered by public
transport, with services departing from ibeniks main bus
station. Heading northwest, regular buses (hourly in season)
travel from ibenik to the island of Murter, passing through
Vodice, Tisno and Jezera on the way.
Travelling inland from ibenik requires a bit more in the way of
careful planning, with only a handful of daily buses to Skradin
and Lozovac (main entrance points to the Krka National
Park). Watch out for reduced services at weekends. There
are plentiful daily buses to the fortress town of Knin, passing
through Drni en route.
Moving southeast from ibenik, regular inter-city coach
services to Split and Dubrovnik trundle along the coastal
highway, passing the resorts of Primoten and Rogoznica.
In ibenik, tickets should be bought in advance from the
counters inside the bus station building. If catching buses in
smaller towns along the way, pay the driver or the conductor.
The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and
patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs,
a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 1.20 2.20kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 06:00 - 22:00),
information desk (Open 06:30 - 21:30) and a public toilet
(07:00 - 22:00).
02 90, euro-san@si.t-com.hr, www.rentacar-croatia.net.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Petak E-1, Poljana marala Tita 2, tel. (+385-22) 33
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SHOPPING
46
Shopping centres
City Life L/M - 3, Ante upuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24
48 44, www.city-life.com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. W
Dalmare P - 4, Velimira korpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 21
38 34, dalmare@zagreb-montaza.hr, www.dalmare.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
SP Supernova ibenik H-1, Put Vida 6, tel. (+385-23)
32 73 01, www.supernova.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Art Galleries
Lana Art C - 1, Fausta Vrania 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08
91, lana.martinovic.cala@gmail.com. A gallery presenting

the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from ibenik
and all over Croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Moko C-3, Trg Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 098 75 38
17, info@gallery-mokos.com. Family owned gallery that
showcase their own form of artwork, in particular jewellery
and sculptures. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00.
JA
Zlarinka Niz Bebana bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 37
33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87, zlarinka1@
net.hr. Jewellery made from red Adriatic coral is hard to resist and is part of both the traditional and modern jewellery
vernacular of Dalmatia. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior
arrangement. A
Delicatessen
Bibich Fra Luje Maruna 21, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77
16 15, vinabibich@vip.hr. All the Bibich wines are for sale

here, as well as local rakijas and delicatessen products.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Bobis Ante Starevia 2, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55
84 91. Try their lude torte - or crazy cakes made from

crispy layers, marzipan and spun sugar (warmed and spun
by hand to form elaborate glassy shapes). Q Open 06:00 21:00. July, August Open 06:00 - 23:00.
Gracin Put murve 4, Primoten, tel. (+385-22) 57 03
52. A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage,
rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od drae),
plus advice on the amber elixirs medicinal properties.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JN
I-PAK Otarije 8, Pakovo Selo, tel. (+385-22) 86 43 55.
A family-run dairy with its own herd of sheep, and a shop selling cheese - including local speciality sir iz miine. QOpen
07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.
Kockica D-2, Zlarinski prolaz 4, tel. (+385-22) 20 08
04/(+385-) 091 422 33 56, apex1@optinet.hr, www.
cajotekarooibos.com. More than 100 types of tea for your
sampling pleasure! Internet corner also, 15min - 5kn. QOpen
08:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. A
Nira delicije L-3, Stjepana Radia 8, tel. (+385-) 099
252 75 01. When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and
rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drni prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines,
cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice
meat products for you. Take out only! QOpen 07:00 - 14:00,
Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Skradinske delicije Bribirskih knezova bb, Skradin.
As well as running a highly recommended restaurant (see
p.51), this family business produces its own wine, rakija,
skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet
and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a
little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where
you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.
Q July - September Open 08:00 - 18:00.
The largest optical store in Dalmatia

in the centre of ibenik.
We are optical store specialized for making
progressive glasses to correct presbiopia.
Those glasses provides to you natural
and sharp vision at all distances.
Prices of progressive glasses are significantly
lower compared to prices in Western Europe
for the same product.
Our staff is fluent in English, German and Italian
and can provide to you quality service on your
own language.
Eye test - all types of contact lenses - top brands of sunglasses and eyeglasses
22000 ibenik, Kralja Tomislava 13
Tel. ++385 (0)22 338 015 - www.optika-topic.hr
New store - ibenik, Poljana 4
M A X A N D C O.C OM
Svijet aja L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22)

31 01 67/(+385-) 098 76 02 65, info@cajoteka.com.
hr, www.cajoteka.com.hr. Devotees of tea may just find
themselves in heaven with a vast range of teas from all four
corners of the globe. Choose from black, green, ayurveda,
herbal, fruit flavours and more. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery Krapanj, tel. (+385-22)
35 06 95, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Cold
pressed olive oil just the way its been made here since 1854.
Q Open by prior arrangement. June 15 - August 31 Open
09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Vinoplod O - 3, Velimira korpika 2, ibenik, tel. (+38522) 33 40 11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. A shop at the
winery gates sells bottles at discount prices - a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babi. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Croatian creations
Charlie Design D-2, Dobri bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 62
IBENIK =DJUHEDNDWHOIUDQL]D0$; &R.
57, www.charlie-design.hr. Our friends favourite shop

because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful
clothing materials. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Koke C-3, Stube Petra Kaera 2, tel. (+385-22) 21 29
82, contact@kokedesign.com, kokedesign.com. As you
straddle by Saint James Cathedral this little workshop is
packed with colourful and uplifting clothes, bags, scarves,
jewellery, and more. It is a tad hippy and there is something
that suits everyones taste. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
OGGI bijoux, info@oggibijoux.com, www.oggibijoux.
com. Martina Mori accentuates her creativity with handmade majestic necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Her style
is fashion bijoux with unique fancy glass bijoux, Murano glass,

semi-precious stones and Swarowski crystal amidst the
accessories. The styles are groovy to classy, something for
every girls precious heart.
Souvenirs
ivljak D - 2, Ulica kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+38522) 21 20 64. This little jeweller is famous for puce and
bagatine - filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk
costume, often elaborate in design. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00,
16:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Galerija Sv. Kristofor C-2, Kaieva bb. A majestic
place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads,
paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious
items. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:30 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Sun.
NP Krka D - 2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20
17 77. Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans. Q Open
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July, August Open 07:00 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Summer 2013
47
48
DIRECTORY
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY

Dry cleaners & Laundries
Zdenka C - 1, Kralja Zvonimira 98, tel. (+385-22) 33 33
70/(+385-) 098 52 68 69. Dry cleaners. Q Open 07:00
- 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Making the call

Youve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (lets hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local
Calls: Heres the trick: dial the subscribers six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National
Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if youre calling
Split for instance) followed by the subscribers number.
Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code),
the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscribers number. Calling Croatia
from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385
(Croatias country code), the city code (dropping the initial
0) and the subscribers number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile
numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098,099,
092 and 095. Dial the subscribers number and wait for
a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian
mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country
code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.
Banks & Exchanges

Erste & Steiermarkische Bank E-1, Poljana 5, tel.
(+385-) 062 37 45 40, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.

erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Jadranska banka F-1, Ante Starevia 4, tel. (+38522) 24 22 42, banka@jadranska-banka.hr, w w w.
jadranska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Privredna banka E-1, Vladimira Nazora 1, tel. (+38522) 32 21 50, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Splitska banka E-1, Poljana 2a, tel. (+385-22) 21 46
63, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebaka banka L-3, Fra Jerolima Milete bb, tel.
(+385-22) 20 13 70, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Business connections
Croatian Chamber of Economy - ibenik Chamber
(upanijska komora ibenik) L - 3, Fra Jerolima Milete 31, tel. (+385-22) 31 16 00, fax (+385-22) 31 16
10, hgksi@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts - ibenik

Knin County (Obrtnika komora ibensko-kninske
upanije) F-1, Ulica Stjepana Radia 77a, tel. (+385-22)
31 17 15, ok.sibenik@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. QOpen 07:30
- 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Pharmacies
Night shifts are covered by either Beldekin, Varo or
Central Pharmacy.
Baldekin L/M - 3, Stjepana Radia 56a, tel. (+38522) 33 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Central Pharmacy F - 1, Stjepana Radia bb, tel.
(+385-22) 21 35 39, centrala@ljekarna-sibenik.com.
hr, www.ljekarna-sibenik.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat
07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Varo C - 1, Kralja Zvonimira 32, tel. (+385-22) 21
22 49. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. A
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure
theyre right value for what you are sending and where.
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These
are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around
town.
Main post office Borajska bb, Raine, tel. (+385-22)
34 22 36, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat
07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr
Postcrads
Croatia
Abroad
Croatia
Abroad
3.10 kn
7.10 kn
1.60 kn
3.10 kn
Real estate
Veterinary clinics
Interservis Bulat I-1, Trtarska 113, tel. (+385-22)
Gardijan J-1/2, Kralja Zvonimira 143, tel. (+385-22)
21 75 70, interservis@interservis-bulat.hr, w w w.
interservis-bulat.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun.
Terra Dalmatica F-3, Obala hrvatske mornarice 1, tel.
(+385-22) 21 35 06, info@terradalmatica.hr, www.
terradalmatica.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
33 37 11/(+385-) 098 34 74 15, vet.amb.gardijan@

si.t-com.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Veterinarska stanica ibenik J-1/2, Kralja Zvonimira
83, tel. (+385-22) 33 33 22, veterinarska.ambulanta.
more@si.t-com.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 14:00.
Prvi Luka
ibenik County (or ibensko-kninska upanija as it is
known in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with
swanky yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist
resorts rubbing shoulders with archaic villages and large
tracts of sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka
and Kornati national parks are the two must-do daytrips,
although with islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, youre unlikely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.
Inland from ibenik

Inland from ibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by
jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs.
Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space
for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided
up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns
like Drni, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little
apart from isolated farmsteads and end-of-the-road villages,
many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to
this part of Dalmatia.
The river Krka is the areas main natural feature and the Krka
National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is
covered under a separate section below.
Drni
Hugging the high ground above the ikola river, Drni was
a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman
Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre
midway along the main road from ibenik to Knin. Ruins of
the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky
hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint
save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes
up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating
from around 1500, all thats left of an Ottoman-era mosque.
Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010,
these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night. Occupying
Agritourism
Banovi dvori Dubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel.
(+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, seosko.
gospodarstvo-banovi.dvori@si.t-com.hr, w w w.
banovidvori.com. Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno
on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up
authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams,
stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma
of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal
cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing
embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which
is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day
- or risk going hungry. Accompanied by potatoes baked in
the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generously-portioned: ask for a doggy bag if
you cant quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house
wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owners
back-garden plantation. He sells self-produced olive oil,
honey and rakija to boot. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Skradinske delicije Biine Velike 31, Skradin, tel.
(+385-22) 77 13 48/(+385-) 091 520 93 30, info@
skradinske-delicije.hr, www.skradinske-delicije.hr.
This family house in the village of Biine above Skradin
conceals a characterful konoba strewn with traditional
household nick-nacks, with grandmas old frying pans
hanging from the ceiling and bunches of dried herbs
placed at strategic locations around the walls. The menu
concentrates on cured meats, Adriatic seafood and local
lamb, although you should ring in advance to reserve a
table. The family make their own honeys, rakija and
marmalade - a selection of which are always on sale. Q
Open by prior arrangement.
Summer 2013
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50
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY

Metrovis most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion
flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists. Mass is only
held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist
attraction during whole year.
Drni Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385-) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr,
www.tz-drnis.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Ivan Metrovi Museum - The Church of the

Holy Redeemer Otavice, Village Rui, tel. (+385-)
098 40 75 38, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.
Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.
Pakovo Selo
pride of place in the town itself is St Anthonys Church, a

16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use
in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Visovac.
Housed in the former home of Drni politician Nikola Adija
(1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and
ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by
Croatias greatest sculptor Ivan Metrovi (1883-1962),
who spent his early years in nearby Otavice. Adija was one
of the early supporters of the young Metrovi, helping to
raise money that paid for the promising local lads studies.
City Museum of Drni Domovinskog rata 38, tel.
(+385-22) 88 67 74. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission free.
Drni Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr,
Knin
Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak
Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial
strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes
linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent
times the location of a major railway junction. Its most
famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved
agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers
above the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from
the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia
under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained
until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian
crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling
to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out
by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters
of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and
the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August

1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities. Central
Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and its best to make your
way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded
by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the
mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon.
The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative
complex of fortifications constructed at different stages,
filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways
beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest
point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large
Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knins highly significant place
in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the
fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic
collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements
from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortresss former hospital
plays host to an archeological museum.
Knin Tourist Board Tumanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66
48 22, www.tz-knin.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Museum of the town of Knin Fra Luje Maruna 1, tel.
(+385-22) 66 07 21, kninski.muzej.knin@si.t-com.hr,
www.kninskimuzej.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission
10 - 20kn.
Otavice
Ten kilometres east of Drni, the sleepy village of Otavice is
celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer
that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was
built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan
Metrovi, who spent much of his childhood here before
pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb
then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of
Twenty kilometres north of ibenik on the main road to Knin,

Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village famous
for its sheep - and its tasty sheeps cheese, sir iz miine,
matured the traditional way by being stuffed into a tube
made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place on the
global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic theme park
that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional lifestyles of
the Dalmatian karst. Just off the villages main crossroads,
Etnoland is a walled complex containing a collection of
traditional stone buildings, each holding a display of oldeworlde furnishings that reveal something about Dalmatian
life a century or so ago. Etnoland is geared up to receiving
pre-booked groups, and individual tourists should reserve
well in advance and be prepared to pay the full group price.
The standard tour lasts about 1hr 15 minutes, and includes
a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of prut-and-wine tasting
and a quick blast of klapa choral singing as well as a guided
tour of the displays. Visitors can also book a 2-3hr slot that
includes a full meal and folklore show. For more information
see Agritourism on page 51.
Drni Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385-) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr,
Skradin
Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the
river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a
flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when
it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as
the 13th-century power-base for the ubi princes of Bribir,
one of Croatias leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the
Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to ibenik,
although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684. Nowadays
it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the
Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off
point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast. Skradin is
increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too,
boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood
and some unique regional treats.
Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradins Old Town is
centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome
Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From
here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an
atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on
either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts,
Skradins waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.60).
Museum Collection of Skradin Trg Male Gospe 3,
tel. (+385-22) 77 13 80. Q July - August 31 Open 18:00
- 22:00. Admission free.
Skradin Tourist Board Trg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+38522) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, tz-skradin@si.tcom.hr, www.skradin.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
The Skradin Religious Collection Trg Male Gospe 4,
tel. (+385-22) 77 10 71. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Tourist Information Centre Obala b. Pavla ubia, tel.
(+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, tz-skradin@

si.t-com.hr, www.skradin.hr. Q June - October Open
08:00 - 20:00.
Islands
The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvi, Kaprije and irje may
seem close to ibenik geographically, but are light years away
in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements
that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even
centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they
offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting
to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly
hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of
ibenik; while Zlarin and Prvi lie on the route of the ibenikVodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate
ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from ibenik to irje and Kaprije.
irje
Of ibenik Countys permanently populated islands, irje is
both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering
of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije,
virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la
among tourists for whom the phrase getting away from it
all really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in
maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important
part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths
provide an ideal means of exploring the island.
ibenik Tourist Information Centre E-2, Obala
Dr.Franje Tumana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+38522) 21 44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@si.t-com.hr, www.
sibenik-tourism.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00. October 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open 08:00
Summer 2013
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IBENIK KNIN COUNTY

Kaprije
Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian),
Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and
hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially its a car free
island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the
place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije
caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants. Private
rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists,
although the island is never in danger of being overrun.
Kaprijes uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular
anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby
Kornati, while the islands numerous coves are ideal for a
spot of secretive bathing.
ibenik Tourist Information Centre E-2, Obala
Dr.Franje Tumana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+38522) 21 44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@si.t-com.hr, www.
sibenik-tourism.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00. October 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open 08:00
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations

is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through
the air attached to a square canvas parachute. English
clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years
later, claimed that Vrani actually tested the parachute
himself by jumping from the belfry of St Marks Cathedral in
Venice. A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvi
Luka to the islands other settlement, epurine. A hive-like
village of stone houses, epurine is centred on a parish
church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an
extravagant weather vane.
Vodice Tourist Board Obala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel.
(+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr.
Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Little Donkey
The Faust Vrani Centre
Krapanj
Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the lowlying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre
of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the islands male
population devoting their time to sponge-diving. Nowadays
Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive
spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing
waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling spongethemed gifts.
Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan
Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were
gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum
contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily
expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest
Juraj Petrovi. The walled graveyard next door contains
several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers,
many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical
deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel
Spongiola (see p.22) to find a small but entertaining display
of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting
industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20thcentury air pumps.
Brodarica - Krapanj Tourist Board Krapanjskih
spuvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 12, info@
tz-brodarica.hr, www.tz-brodarica.hr. Q June, September
Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July - August
31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. October - May 31 Open Mon, Fri
17:00 - 20:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00.
Prvi
In many ways Prvi is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant
and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional
Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements Prvi Luka at the eastern end, and epurine at the west - Prvi
has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally
more lively as a result. Prvi was traditionally the summer
retreat of ibeniks leading families, and remains associated
with one great ibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat
and scientist Faust Vrani (1551-1617). Vrani was buried
in Prvi Lukas parish church. Educated in Padua, Vrani
served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting
himself to his writings. His Latin-Italian-German-HungarianCroatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark
in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae
Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copperplate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious
homage to the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci published
Prvi Luka, Prvi Island, www.mc-faustvrancic.com.

Venice, 16th century, Vrani takes the plunge and makes
it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in ibenik and was
buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where
you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia
displays and educational games for youngsters! Q Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Possible longer working hours
in July and August, but that hasnt bee defined until closing
this edition. Admission 15 -30kn.
Zlarin
Lying right opposite St Anthonys Channel, the narrow
waterway that connects ibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is
a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin
has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m).
Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the
most frequent names on the island are Sreko, Nato and
Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the
island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was
exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into
The Zlarin Legend

The highest point of the Klepac Island is 169 meters high
and the church of Mary from Raelj was to be built there.
Things however did not go to plan - a group of people
found a piece of wood with the image of the Madonna in
Zlarin (the place of todays church) and they took it up to
Klepac to the place of the planned church. The next morning, that same wooden image of the Madonna appeared
in Zlarin where it was found, and from there it was decided
that that would be the home of the church in Zlarin.
Strong, surefooted and not afraid of the sun, the donkey was once such a common sight in Dalmatia that
for Croatian people donkeys are synonymous with the
region. While the standard Croatian word for donkey is
magarac, in Dalmatian dialect the word used is tovar,
which is related to the word for loading goods or a burden.
Inland folks unkindly refer to Dalmatian people as tovari,
while the Dalmatians themselves (including Hajduk Split
fans) wear the badge with pride.
For centuries donkeys were used to carry heavy goods
such as wood across the rocky terrain of the hinterland
and islands, and many families had a few of the animals
to help with regular tasks. Donkey hooves are smaller and
tougher than horses, and since donkeys can survive on
the meagre grass and scrub around here theyre perfect
for this terrain.
Nowadays, of course, people have other ways of transporting things around, and ever fewer people live from
agriculture. So the braying of a donkey has become a
rare sound on our holidays, just a reminder of a disappearing way of life.
However, thanks to a number of enthusiasts, there has
been a revival of donkey-breeding in the past few years.
Kids, of course, love donkeys, so theyre a tourist attraction in their own right. Some towns, notably Tribunj
near ibenik, hold donkey races - a fun evening out in
the summer. And some folks are selling donkey milk for
its health-giving and beautifying properties. (Cleopatra
knew a good thing when she saw it).
So, if you see a donkey while youre in Dalmatia, be sure
to give it a friendly pat. Just dont mention the word
stubborn. Wed rather say the donkey knows its own
mind and will be glad to oblige you - just so long as you
ask nicely!
fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing went into

decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coralprocessing workshop still exists on the island, and several
souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral bracelets
and earrings. Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stonebuilt houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the
impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj
(local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned
by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the
west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a
peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down
from either side of the pediment. Occupying a stone house at
the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a
shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just
off the ibenik coast, and an ethnographic room containing
domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor
of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop,
where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You
can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in
the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process
in the work-room next door. Further east, the Chapel of St
Simon (Crkvica sv. ime) has a small collection of church
treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the
road past the chapel and youll arrive after 10 minutes at the
Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church
of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image
of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a
gesture of thanks from devout sailors.
Etno museum Zlarinka Niz Bebana bb, tel. (+38522) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87,
zlarinka1@net.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior
arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Zlarin Tourist Board Sunana obala 14, tel. (+38522) 55 35 57, tzzlarin@net.hr, www.tz-zlarin.com. Q
June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
National parks
Kornati
Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes,
and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching
of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands,
the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a
barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs,
with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by
limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on
the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs,
rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those
Kornati Islands
Summer 2013
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IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
on the island of Klobuar, while man-made features include

the dry-stone walls that streak across age-old pasturelands.
Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of
extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the
protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980.
Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families
from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives
or harvest honey - as well as fishing in the seafood-rich
surrounding waters. The islands no longer have a permanent
population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally
inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the
summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete
seclusion. The Gospa od Tarca church on the island of Kornat
is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday
of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island
in a festive flotilla of boats.
Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout
the summer, most departing at around 08:00 and returning
towards 18:00. Almost all of the tourist agencies in Murter
and Vodice offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300kn per
person, including lunch on one of the islands and maybe
the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips
provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to
appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own
boat - and a couple of days to spare. For yachtspeople, ACI
marinas exist on the island of Pikera, inside the boundaries
of the Park, and on ut, just outside it. Yachtsfolk will have
to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the
Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands
themselves, or park rangers patrolling the Kornati waters
by dinghy.
Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+38522) 43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr. Q
Entrance ticket cost 150 - 1500kn depending on the size
of the boat.
Krka
Much of the landscape inland from ibenik is shaped by the
Krka, the 75km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin
before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular series
of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls.
The valleys most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and
Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park
(Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of
700,000 people a year.
About 90% of these visitors never get any further than
Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids
within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on
the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much
more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper
(northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and
trekking routes are only now being developed.
Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more
elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play
host to various communities of bats, who play an important
role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside
insects. Its also an area rich in historical resonances, with
ruined fortresses recalling the regions erstwhile status as a
disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside
monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.
Visiting the park
There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is
the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open
08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre
sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative
audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park.
There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to
Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 19:00.
July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau above the
Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either

on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus. The third is Roki slap
(June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 18:00), although the
road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The
fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00) on the road from
Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Lakovica. (During
the other months please check the Parks Web site or give
them a call to check opening hours.)
Daily tickets (30 - 95kn adults, children 7 - 14, 20 - 70kn)
and multi-day tickets (150 - 300kn adults, children 7 - 14,
110 - 220kn) can be bought at the National Park Information
Centre in Skradin or from the entrance points described
above. The ticket price includes rides on the national parks
shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not
include travel on excursion boats heading further north into
the park - these must be paid for separately.
Skradinski buk
Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the
Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by
the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the
limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and
moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing
process, with Skradinski buks travertine barriers growing
and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year.
The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal
falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The
place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (racket),
a reference to the noise generated by the water rushing
over the rapids.
Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the
rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a
variety of machines. Ten of the stone mill buildings have been
restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and
fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and
agricultural implements.
Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski
belveder), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting
Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.
A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the
hydroelectric power station built by ibenik mayor Ante
upuk and brother Marko upuk in 1895. It was the second
AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes
dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months
previously. The upuks formed a private company in order
to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in
Dalmatia. When upuk died in 1904, the whole of ibeniks
electric lighting was switched off in his honour.
Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge
that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest
of Skradinski buks waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow
water is the one part of the National Park where you are
allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents
bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself.
On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading
up and down the hillside beside many of Skradins tumbling
streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts
to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding.
Kljuica
Hovering above the river ikola, which flows into the Krka
just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Kljuica Fortress is
part of the fortification system developed by the medieval
Nelipi family, who controlled the trade routes between
ibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported
in both directions. The Nelipi clans tight grip on commerce
was much resented by others in the region, and Kljuica
was sacked by forces from ibenik in the mid-14th century.
Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse
when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.
Visovac Monastery
Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into
the so-called Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which
measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points.
Grey-green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination
for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely
located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A
Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least
the 14th century, although the church we see today was built
in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region,
it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of
a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan
Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is
held in the monastery treasury.
Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamiak fortress can
be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by
the Nelipi family in the 13th century, it was demolished by
the conquering Ottomans after 1522.
Roki slap
Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roki slap 5km
north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that
marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roki slap is also
accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from
evrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo),
although parking space is limited when you get there. As
at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers settlement
beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving
techniques inside.
Krka Monastery and beyond
Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north
of Roki slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje),
the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best
known of Croatias handful of Orthodox monasteries. It was
founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena,
a sister of the Serbian Tsar Duan who married a Croatian
prince of the ubi family. Famous for its Romanesque bell
tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for
its early-Christian catacombs - although they are not always
open to visitors.
Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipi
cliff-top fortresses, Bogoin.
Burnum Amphitheater, NP Krka Archives
Summer 2013
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IBENIK KNIN COUNTY

North of ibenik
The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the
smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide
quieter alternatives.
Murter
North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of

the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides. Perched
on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the parks
most dramatic fortresses, Neven to the east, and Troenj
immediately opposite to the west. Troenj once served
as the power base of the Croatian ubi family, although
the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol. It was
notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from
high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment
Burnum
Just outside the parks western boundary, the road from
Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst,
passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman
legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian
settlement. On the western side of the road lie the remains
of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the
remaining two arches of the former military command post.
A footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep
down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the
development stages
Puljani
Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists
its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river
at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the
opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display
devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There
is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon.
Franciscan Monastery of the Mother of Mercy

(Franjevaki samostan Majke od milosti) Visovac,
www.npkrka.hr. Q Boat tickets 50 - 100kn.
Krka National Park Info Centre ibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 88, www.npkrka.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00.
Public Institute of Krka National Park D-2, Trg Ivana

Pavla II 5, ibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr,
www.npkrka.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Burnum Archaeological Collection Puljane,
Oklaj, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.
npkrka.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
The Monastery of the Archangel Michael (Manastir Krka) Carigradska draga, tel. (+385-22) 20 17
77, www.npkrka.hr.
Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy

bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a
self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on large-sized
package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele
of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the islands
plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laid-back
atmosphere than the mainland towns.
Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of
Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks,
pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many
growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of
stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local
villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of
cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone walls
that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic
cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the
alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murters
status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that
brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.
Tisno
Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for narrow, which is an accurate
description of the towns location, hugging both shores of
the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the
Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised
at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 09:00 and
17:00) to allow boats to pass through the town.
There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic
core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the
18th century Katunari Palace contains a small history
display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka
Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy
Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of
Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site
established by families who moved here from northern Italy
in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the
surrounding countryside from the top. Back at sea level, the
towns long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it
perfect for extended shoreline strolls. The rock-and-pebble
beaches at Lovia (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are
ideal for a family-oriented splashing-around holiday.
Hunting
The island of irje is one of the furthest islands in the
ibenik archipelago and a favourite destination for
Italians. ljuka bena (Scolopax rusticola L.) is a sub
type of bird hunted all over the world and importantly
a great assortment of meals can be made from this
little bird. Hunting these birds has traditionally been
well received for a number of years now due irje (a
place which is this birds last destination during their
flight towards the southern hemisphere and towards
Africa), when all other continental hunting places are
closed. One can also hunt rabbit, pheasant, wild rabbit
and pigeons there too. All activities surrounding the
organization are coordinated by the ranger-hunter Mr
eljko igori who can be contacted between 08:00
-20:00 via mobile: (+385-) 095 905 62 62.
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Jezera
A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay. Jezera
(the Lakes) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that
used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village.
One of them, called Lokva (Puddle), still exists behind the
Parish Church and fills with water in rainy periods of the spring
and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (Mud), further
south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now
grazing land. Jezeras pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style
around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The
hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva)
provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best
beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village,
in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromana. The rural
tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their
way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling.
Murter
With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive
suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a
relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern
vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on
the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why
most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small
jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front
door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest
number of boats in proportion to the local population than
anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting
marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern end of
town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big
repair yard.
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped,

caf-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards
a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end. Stroll
west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Luke to
enjoy a taste of Murters traditional stone architecture. One of
the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around
a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The
narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rocks Chapel
(Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building
that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rocks
Day (August 16). From the chapels forecourt you can enjoy a
stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green
forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The
narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest
and most picturesque of Murters stone houses.
Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of
town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of an
Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans - who
went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hills
slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of
the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina)

and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its
walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea
of what it once looked like. There is not a great deal else of
Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside
location is a powerfully evocative spot. Most popular of
Murters beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square,
a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer.
There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal
paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded)
parts of the coast in either direction. Follow the coastal path
south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes
at igraa beach, an attractive crescent of pebble bordered
by a jetty for small boats. Behind the beach lies a cool beach
bar in the shape of Lantana (see p.35) and a well-regarded
seafood restaurant (the igraa, see p.29). igraa can
also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take
the main southbound road out of town and turn right when
you see the sign.
Betina
Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland
(and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of
Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of
the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for
yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement
is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the
Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for
its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome
and spindly weather vane.
Betina Tourist Board Trg na moru 2, tel. (+385-22)
43 65 22, tz-betina@hi.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00.
July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Jezera Tourist Board Put Zaratia 3, tel. (+385-22)
43 91 20, turisticka-zajednica-jezera@si.htnet.hr, www.
tzjezera.hr.
Murter - Kornati Tourist Board Rudina bb, tel. (+38522) 43 49 95, info@tzo-murter.hr, www.tzo-murter.
hr. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. July - August 31
Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Pirovac
Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of ibenik,
Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by
a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A
gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the
historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and
cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church.
Pirovac Tourist Board Kralja Kreimira IV br. 6, tel.
(+385-22) 46 67 70, www.tz-pirovac.hr. Q June 1 - 15
Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. June 16 - August
31 Open 07:00 - 21:00. September Open 07:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting

on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach thats a
peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice.
Tribunjs other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey
races that takes place every year in the first week of August.
The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying
beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar
(Croatian Donkey) organization, formed in 1999. There is
a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to
the southwest.
Tribunj Tourist Board Badnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44
61 43, tztribunj@inet.hr, www.tz-tribunj.hr. Q Open
08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June 25 - August 31 Open
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Tribunj
Thirty minutes walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj
is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumb-shaped
island joined to the mainland by a bridge. Theres a tight
cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting
marina on the opposite side of the bay.
Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish
Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century
building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and
a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that
features an intricate model ship. For those who need to
stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunjs parish
church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing
shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There
are splendid views of the coastline from the summit.
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IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
Vodice
South of ibenik
Twelve kilometres north of ibenik, Vodice is the most-visited

tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments
on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped
yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of
historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice,
surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses
and tourist-oriented apartment buildings. Vodices beaches
consist mostly of concrete, gravel and pebble, so dont get
too excited about building any sandcastles.
The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable
water in the area (voda is Croatian for water). Indeed the
city of ibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from
Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water
system was constructed.
Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the ori
Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the
15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A
solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium,
which contains an entertaining and educational display of
Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass
and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood
restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine
collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater
archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats
from all ages and countries - they range from traditional
Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship
Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.
South of ibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined

with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky
beaches. The main resorts here are Primoten, 21km south
of ibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels;
and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the regions
biggest yachting marinas.
One the way there youll pass plenty of characterful, quieter
spots. Grebatica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the
ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.
Dolac, just south of Grebatica, is a small coastal village
whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect
platforms for a summer skin-roasting session.
Primoten
Catching sight of Primoten from the coastal road is one of
the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian
Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed
onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the
wooded peninsula of Radua sprouts off to the north, fringed
by a large and splendid gravel beach.
Aquarium and Museum of the maritime tradition
Obala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-22) 44 42 93/

(+385-) 098 35 30 63, 098 21 46 34, www.aquariumvodice.com. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Admission 15 - 25kn.
Vodice Tourist Board Obala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel.
(+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr.
Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Primotens origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of

Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of
the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.
The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (Bare Head)
was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was
constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the
resulting town became known as Primoten (which might be
loosely translated as the place with a bridge across). As the
Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced
by a stone causeway, turning Primoten into the peninsula
town that visitors see today.
On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stoneroofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue
of Don Ivo ari (1915-1944), who attempted to protect
the local population against atrocities by both Italian and
German occupiers during World War II, before finally being
murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a
typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender
bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding
over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of
sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife
and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an arched
gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old
Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15thcentury parish church of St George.
Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had
a summer villa here), the beaches of Radua are packed with
bathers in summer.
Inland from Primoten
Occupying the high ground uphill from Primoten is an
enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country
lanes lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives
and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region
until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals
become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have
suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have
been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of
local families are returning to their ancestral properties and
revitalizing the olive groves.
The regions rich stock of traditional stone buildings is
increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the
popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the
hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic
displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food
and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a
result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although
individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The
restored farmstead represents the lifes work of local priest
Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and
whose family have been masters of the property for several
generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old main
building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a restored
kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite
side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were
acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of
church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by
contemporary Croatian artists. For more information see
Agritourism on page 51.
Primoten Vineyards
The best of ibenik countys velvety Babi wine comes from
the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primoten,
a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by
individual local families. With each of these rectangular
parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing
hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a
distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the
stone lace of Primoten in local tourist literature.
These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking
toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be
laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches
Summer 2013
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IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
of land. Primotens oldest vineyards probably date from the

16th century, although extra impetus to their development
was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when
the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was
divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the course
of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared
and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision,
producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen
today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is
considering putting the Primoten Vineyards forward as a
candidate for inclusion on the UNESCOs World Heritage List.
Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik
yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced
slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors to
explore the landscape at close quarters.
Primoten Tourist Board Trg Josipa Biskupa Arneria
2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, tz-primosten@si.htnet.hr,
www.tz-primosten.hr. Q 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 30
Open 08:00 - 22:00.
IBENIK KNIN COUNTY
Rogoznica
Southernmost of ibenik Countys seaside resorts is
Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland
by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses
rising above a palm-splashed Riva, its an undeniably
attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side
of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the
yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village,
Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building
holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just behind the
marina is Zmajevo Oko (Eye of the Dragon), a crater-like
salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of the marina
is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of
pebble beach backed by dense pines.
Rogoznica Tourist Board Obala Kneza Domagoja bb,
tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, rogoznica@tz-rogoznica.hr,
www.tz-rogoznica.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00. Sat, Sun
08:00 - 13:00. June 15 - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Wine Tasting
Bibich Winery Plastovo bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-)
091 123 65 01, vinabibich@vip.hr. Famous for producing high-quality Plavina and Shiraz reds alongside several
characterful blended wines, Bibich winery is the site of a
wine-tasting room where you can taste and buy a bottle or
two. You can also buy travarica (herb-flavoured brandy),
local honey, and speciality cheese from the island of Pag.
Q Open by prior arrangement. A
Kod Bepice Put murve 1, Primoten. A dark stonelined wine cellar with a pair of street-facing wooden
benches outside, this is the place to try local Babi wine
served direct from the barrel while nibbling away at a platter of prut slices or a mound of fried whitebait. Bottles
of the red stuff are also on sale. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Summer 2013
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STREET REGISTER
15.1.1873.
D/E-2
17 buntovnika
C-2
29. listopada 1918.
L-2
3. studenog 1944. M/N-2
7. Omelia
F-1/2
8. Dalmatinske brigade
O-2/3
A. Cesarca
M-2
A. Mihanovia
M-2
Andrije Kaia
C-2
Ante Starevia
F-1, L-3
Ante upuka
L/M-3
Ante Trlaje Antia
H-1/I-2
Antuna Vrania
D-2
B. Fulgosi
K-2
B. Petranovia
D-1
Bana Ivana Maurania K-1
Bana Josipa Jelaia
K-1
Benkovaka
C-2
Biogradska
J-2
Biskupa Fosca
E-1/2
Blajburskih rtava
L-3
Bonnina iz Milana
D-1
Bosanska
M-2/3,N-2
Boe Peraia
M-2/3
Boidara Petranovia
D-1
Brae Poli
K-2
Bregovita
K-2
Bribirska
J-1
Bribirskih knezova
I/J-2
Dinka Zavorovia
D-1
Dobri
D-2
Don Krste Stoia
C/D-2
Draga
G-2
Drnikih rtava
J-2
Drvarska
J-2
Dubrovaka
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L-3
Eugena Kvaternika
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F. Dismania
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F. Divinia
C-2/3
Fausta Vrania
C-1
Fra Jeronima Milete
L-3
Fra S. Zlatovia
F-1, L-3
Frana Supila
N-3
Gavanova
I-2
Graditelja Skoka
C-1
Gradska vrata
C-3
Grgura Ninskog
D-1
I. Gundulia
N-3
I. Rendia
M-2
Ispod Vidilice
L-2
Istarska
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Ivana Metrovia H-1, I/J-2
Ivanjski put
K-2
Ive Druia
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Ive Ninia Ivasa
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Ive Zaninovia
K-2
J. Barakovia
D-2
J. Mondelle
A-2
J. Petrovia
C-1
J. igoroa
D-2
STREET REGISTER
Jerka Machieda
L-2
Josipa J. Strossmayera N-3
Jurja Dalmatinca
B-3
Jurja igoroa
D-2
Juna magistrala
P-4/5
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Kaprijska
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Karla Vipauca
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Matije Gupca
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Summer 2013
65
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the best place for shopping, food

and fun located at the gateway to Zagreb: A2, A3, A1
Based on the original map by:

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ibenik Harbor
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Festival fever hits

Your first view of the city

Kings and Queens

Culture & Events

Whats on, in and around town

Experience a night under the twinkling stars

Wherewer you lay your heat

ibeniks best traditional goodies

ibenik International Childrens Festival is an event with

Dining & Nightlife

Sailing or Scuba diving

Save on slave leather

ibenik Knin County

Save on slave leather

Maps & Index

Figs are not just yummy, they also happen to be rich in

ibenik In Your Pocket

ibenik In Your Pocket

The World of In Your Pocket

Its now 21 years since we published the first In

ibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a

Getting from Zagreb to ibenik by train takes about nine

ibenik In Your Pocket

There are plenty of exchange offices around ibenik, as well

When things go wrong

Association of Tourist Guides Mihovil

Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.

New Years Day

CULTURE & EVENTS

22.06 Saturday - 06.07 Saturday

A-3, Dolac, Riva, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Some say that

Various locations across city, www.mdf-sibenik.com.

John Lee Sanders

ibenik In Your Pocket

Terraneo Festival Archives

International Childrens Festival

04.07 Thursday - 29.08 Thursday

Traditional Acapella Evenings

D-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II, Mala loa, www.sibenik-tourism.

13.07 Saturday - 03.08 Saturday

Musica Appassionata Festival

CULTURE & EVENTS

CULTURE & EVENTS

Martinska camp, office@skaville.org, www.skaville.

29.07 Monday - 02.08 Friday

Supertoon International Animation Festival

16.07 Tuesday - 22.07 Monday

Salsa Beach Splash Festival

29.07 Monday - 04.08 Sunday

The 3rd ibenik Dance Festival

18.07 Thursday - 20.07 Saturday

The 7th Off Blues & Jazz Festival

Photo by International Childrens Festival Archives

03.08 Saturday - 09.08 Friday

ibenik In Your Pocket

attraction. His songs are melodic and sentimental in a way

Ulina bina Festival

www.ulicna-bina.hr. A festival of street art and culture which

07.08 Wednesday - 09.08 Friday

www.terraneofestival.com. Terraneo shines once again

23.08 Friday - 25.08 Sunday

ibenik Chanson Festival

C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske, Summer stage, www.