Bali & Beyond Magazine September 2009 Edition

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF...
THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

VOLUME 11 NO. 112
BALINESE
HERITAGE IN
A MADURA
PEJENG: VILLAGE
BETWEEN PAKERISAN
AND PETANU DISCOVERY OF BALINESE
HERITAGE IN A
VISITING THE PEJENG VILLAGE REMOTE VILLAGE NEAR
HELPS ONE UNDERSTAND SUMENEP ON THE
ANCIENT BALI AND THE MUSLIM ISLAND OF
BALINESE PAST THROUGH MADURA
VARIOUS RELICS
HATCHLINGS’
HIGH
HOPES COMPLIMENTARY
+
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C LBALI&BEYOND
A S S I F I E DSEPTEMBER
C O L U2009
M N 1S
2 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009
BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 3
TEAMTALK
teamtalk 09.09 contributors

On the cultural side and close to the
SOULFUL center of the island, this month we
SEPTEMBER visit the primordial village of Pejeng
through Craft & Culture where we
‘Om Swastyastu...’ admire the archeological features
throughout the village and trace
Welcome to the island and welcome the stream of the rivers Pakerisan
to the September 2009 edition of Bali and Petanu, all of which help us
& Beyond... and a special “welcome understand more of ancient Bali and
back” to those of you who decided to the Balinese past through the various
visit again to further experience Bali relics scattered about the vicinity.
and its surrounding islands. Arvid Nicolas shoots for international travel and
For a bit of action and adventure we lifestyle magazines; when not traveling he dwells at
share with you some environmental his professional studio (obscurastudio.net)
Visiting the island this month will
present you with many memorable conservation aspects. Last month
opportunities, as the ‘peak season’ we had the opportunity to travel on
is continuing on from the previous the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan
month’s peak holiday period. Your and attend a presentation by
camera, we believe, will be an the Marine Program Director for
indispensable item… so keep your film Conservation International Indonesia
ready to load, your memory cards free and member of the Marine Turtle
of space, and your forefinger ‘shutter Specialist Group, who told us
release happy’ throughout your about “best practices” in preserving
adventures on Bali and beyond. Indonesia’s endangered turtle
population.
Last month we saw Sanur’s share
Hary Subastian is MRA Media’s senior
of festive highlights with the fourth The trip was part of the Bali Hai
photographer and his portfolio spans Indonesia’s
Sanur Village Festival. And after much Cruises effort, working with the high-end fashion and lifestyle magazines.
anticipation and a series of question villages of Kurma Asih, to launch a
marks regarding its continuity, the turtle adoption and release program,
Kuta Karnival has recently announced which was started in July. After the
its return this month from September presentation at Bali Hai’s Beach
19-27. Led by the Kuta Small Business Club, the ‘adopters’ headed to
Association (KSBA), this 7th annual Sunset Beach where we all had the
Kuta Karnival will again ‘celebrate life’; chance to participate in giving the
and invites all to the various events “Gift of Life” by bidding farewell and
bound for the Kuta Beach area. a safe journey to the baby turtles
scuttling towards the waves. We
share the experience with you in this
month’s Action & Attraction. Pictured
here is a token of the trip.
Kathy Petite spends her time writing about travel,
lifestyle, arts and culture. She also writes songs, and
In this the Muslim month of is writing a novel she never gets to finish.
Ramadhan, we go Beyond Bali to
feature a religious ceremony on the
island of Madura. Tim Hannigan
shows us his discovery of some
Balinese heritage in a remote village
near Sumenep on this Muslim island.
We hope you enjoy your time and

PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
adventures. And while you’re at it,

always keep safe.
Enjoy!
‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the
world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for
adventure on dry land that really got him hooked.
The Team

BALI & BEYOND
Deputy General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA
goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id
Managing Editor NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

eric@baliandbeyond.co.id
Editorial Assistant NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI

dian@baliandbeyond.co.id
Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI
Graphic Designer PUTU PARTAJAYA
putu@baliandbeyond.co.id
MADE SUWARDANA
suwardana@baliandbeyond.co.id
Advertising & MarComm. Manager ANDI BEHANS

andibehans@baliandbeyond.co.id
F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI

agung@baliandbeyond.co.id
GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA

adara@baliandbeyond.co.id
Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA

Graphic Design Intern MARIA PUTRI KHARISMA
Contributors
GENTRY AMALO, HENNY DESTYARINI, GUSTRA, TIM HANNIGAN,
JUSTIN LEWIS (GETTY IMAGES), JESPER MEYER, ARVID NICOLAS,
KATHY PETITE, HARY SUBASTIAN
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription

Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969
Publisher
PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA
Commissioner
SOETIKNO SOEDARJO
Director
MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO
Division Head MRA Printed Media
INDRIATI WIRJANTO
Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA
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Endorsed by A member of
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE

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Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313 skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

contents 09.09
THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S
September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112
PHOTO BY KATHY PETITE

48
48 CRAFT&CULTURE
PEJENG: BETWEEN
20
PHOTO COURTESY DISCOVERY KARTIKA PLAZA HOTEL
CAPITALCORNER PAKERISAN AND PETANU

Visiting the idyllic village of Pejeng, one
THE HOT AND can easily find and further understand
ancient Bali and the Balinese through
SMASHING POTATO various centuries-old remnants and relics.
Kathy Petite brought her
inquisitive mind and appetite 26
to a recently-opened hot INVITE&INDULGE
and hip restaurant on the BEACHFRONT DISCOVERY
outer edge of Pacific Place’s The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas
stand as among the most familiar and
ground floor in Jakarta. unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area.

contents 09.09
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
32
INSPIRING THE
COVER WHOLE WORLD
COURTESY BILLABONG ASIA

Turtle Crawling Towards Ocean Bali & Beyond meets up
Photo by Justin Lewis
(Getty Images)
with four fingered South
Korean pianist Hee Ah Lee
before her inspiring concert.
+
34 PONDERINGPOINT 12 NEW&NEWS
“TRULY” INDONESIA This month’s select news updates
Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet from the island’s tourism industry
dance in its tourism promotion, and and what’s new around the island.
it has become a serious issue in
Indonesia. 54 BEYONDUPDATES
News updates from the tourism
36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS industry and what’s new beyond Bali.
HATCHLINGS’ HIGH HOPES
Bali Hai Cruises joined forces with 58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR
Kurma Asih village foundation and Schedules, calendar highlights and
Conservation International through various happenings of interest, from
COURTESY PHOTO
a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ art exhibitions to special events.

initiative on the island of Lembongan.
62 SEE&SEEN
Snapshots of events and
happenings within the preceding
42
month.
70 BALIMAPS
Map of Bali showing specific tour-
ism areas and places of interest, as
BEYONDBALI well as a distance scale between
the island’s main destinations.
BALINESE HERITAGE IN
COURTESY BALI HAI CRUISES
A MADURA VILLAGE 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

Listings and product descriptions
The discovery of Balinese from various clientele.
heritage on a Muslim island
74 INFOINDEX
reveals a people proud of Useful directory of companies and
their unique heritage. island-based businesses.

NEW&NEWS
TEJAKULA TRIPLE
The vice regent of the Buleleng regency,
Made Arga Pynatih, recently introduced sea
management zones on the Taoka Coast in the
village of Tejakula. This collaborative effort between
groups of local fishermen and the local village
administration, together with the local government
and related parties including Reef Check Indonesia,
set up zones that will be part of a chain along
PHOTO BY GENTRY AMALO
Tejakula’s beaches. The area is approximately 1.3

kilometers across and 180 meters from the coast,
with three zones named the Core Zone, the Support
Zone, and the Utilization Zone. Recent social
activities highlighted its introduction.
Reef Check Indonesia, www.reefcheck.or.id
ASIAN INSIGHTS
Editions Didier Millet
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

introduces The Sultan and the
Mermaid Queen by Paul Spencer
Sochaczewski, a collection
of essays that describe rarely
written-about Asian people,
places and events. From the last
elephant hunter of Vietnam, Alfred
Russell Wallace, to the Sultan of
Yogyakarta’s love affair with a
Mermaid Queen.
BEYOND ACRONYM
Indonesian traditional cosmetics producer Martha Tilaar
www.edmbooks.com
(pictured center) launched her new book Bali S(hui) P(ani)
A(merta): Secrets of Holistic Healing on the Island of the
Gods, at the Periplus bookstore of the Mal Bali Galeria in
Kuta. In her 200-page book, Tilaar writes about ancient
Balinese medical treatments that use water as the main
ingredient. The book was jointly written by Tilaar, Balinese
shamans and local healers.
Periplus Bookstore, (0361) 751-197; www.periplus.co.id
ROOMY!
COURTESY PHOTO
Nusa Dua Beach Hotel

& Spa recently appointed
Mr. Siswo Susetyo as Rooms
COURTESY PHOTO
Division Manager of the 381-
APARTMENT-STYLE room hotel. From his first role

at Sahid Bali Seaside Hotel,
O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger is the largest all-suite luxury resort in to several positions with Bali
Legian. The apartment-style hotel, managed by Hawaiian-based hotel Hilton International, Mr. Siswo
operator Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, comprises five levels housing 112 has continued to gain extensive experience through roles in
spacious contemporary style suites. The C Bistro & Lounge dishes up the Rooms Division throughout Bali. In 2003, Mr. Siswo was
Mediterranean and Asian cuisine, while the Flying Fish opens for dinner appointed Director of Rooms of Hard Rock Hotel until 2007,
serving fresh seafood. O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger when he joined Nikko Bali Resort & Spa.
Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian (0361) 737-400; www.outrigger.com Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, (0361) 771-210

NEW&NEWS
IN THE HILLS, AT THE BAY

Four Seasons Resorts Bali introduces new highlights at its Jimbaran and Sayan
resorts. Jimbaran Bay’s open-air signature restaurant Taman Wantilan has recently been
transformed into an authentic Italian ristorante. Milanese native Senior Chef de Partie
Loris Pistillo experiments with Mediterranean flavors and Italian culinary secrets while the
ambience remains tropical Balinese. At Sayan, “A Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer” is
COURTESY PHOTO
a unique experience in which guests will learn about farming, planting rice seeds, enjoying
a river spa ritual, and tasting a traditional ‘Nasi Campur’ lunch. The spas at both Four
Seasons Resorts Bali at Jimbaran Bay and Sayan have recently launched 100% chemical
free treatments including the new signature “Sodashi Water Valley Treatment”.
AUSSIE RULES? Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010
www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay; (0361) 756-988; bali.queenstandoor.com
InterContinental Bali Resort
welcomes Adam McDonald as Resort
Manager. Adam assumes overall
responsibility for the operations of the
418-room property. The Australian born
and active Australian Rules Football
enthusiast has spent his entire career
working in the luxury hotel sector, and
joins InterContinental Bali Resort straight
from a 4-year stint as Resident Manager at
COURTESY PHOTOS
InterContinental Sydney.
InterContinental Bali Resort
(0361) 701-888
www.bali.intercontinental.com
TRANSFORMED...
Bali Dynasty Resort announced its completed renovation of 125 Deluxe
and Family Rooms located in two wings of the hotel. Each room has been fully
modernized and equipped with new furnishings and luxury facilities, with en-suite
bathrooms completely refitted. Family Rooms are located on the ground floor
with views and access to the garden and pool via an outdoor terrace, enabling
the kids to play outside. Each is designed to accommodate up to five people in
two spacious sleeping areas, separated by a half partition wall. All bathrooms are
wheelchair accessible and are complemented by well-lit wall mirrors, a thoughtful
COURTESY PHOTO
array of amenities and non-slip floors. This latest renovation project is part of a
multi-million dollar makeover to Bali Dynasty Resort over the last year, including the
transformation of the lobby and the stylish new Sen5es international restaurant.
Bali Dynasty Resort,
Jl Kartika, Tuban, South
FOOD ARCHITECT
COU RTESY PHOTOS
Kuta, (0361) 752-403

www.balidynasty.com Padma Resort Bali’s Japanese Chef, Shoichi
Shiraiwa, is ready to provide the best Japanese
culinary treats for guests. He has spent many years
in the Unites States working for New York’s Sushi
Taro and several Japanese restaurants in Florida.
He also has extensive experience in Japan and the
US with building and construction projects. These
skills determine his attention to detail, thus assuring
the quality of his Japanese dishes.
Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jl. Padma No. 1,
Legian (0361) 752-111; www.padmahotels.com

NEW&NEWS
ON THE SOUTH END

As this goes to press, Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence is launching
as the newest hotel on Jalan Wana Segara at the southern end of
Kuta. Conceived as a contemporary sanctuary just a 50 meter stroll
TO
from the beach, the Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence features a total of
SY PH O
209 rooms on 5 floors, each with full amenities and a range of F&B
outlets including the Sugar & Spice coffee shop, the Ruby Tuesday
C O U R TE
lobby lounge, the Lighthouse rooftop restaurant and the Tropical Bliss
pool bar. Other facilities include spa & body treatments, a business SIGN ON
center, a swimming pool and a kid’s pool and kids club.
Balinese surf star and all round nice guy Rahtu
Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jalan Wana Segara, Kuta
Suargita has again signed with world leading surf brand
(0361) 754-999; www.astonkuta.com
Billabong. In his own words, Billabong has supported
him not only in surfing, but has also given him a chance
to expand himself in other fields such as video editing
PHOTO COURTESY ASTON KUTA HOTEL & RESIDENCE
while also providing the platform to show them to the

world. “I really appreciate that,” he said. Billabong also
couldn’t be more happy about it. “We’re so stoked
to have Rahtu on the team again,” said Peter Thew,
Billabong South East Asia Marketing Manager. “He’s
starting to really clock some results on the Indonesian
tour and has nailed some amazing shots this season.
He’s a great asset to Billabong and definitely one of the
stars on the SE Asian surf scene.”
www.billabong.com/asia
KARNIVAL RETURNS
After much anticipation, the Kuta Karnival returns September 19-
27. Led by the Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), the 7th Kuta
COURTESY PHOTO
Karnival will again celebrate life, with the organizing committee excited
to invite all to the fabulous events happening on Kuta Beach. The
Opening Ceremony, Kite Festival, Traditional Sunset Dance, Bali Hotels
Association Bartender Competition, Surfer Girl’s Big Splash Surfing
Days, the Bali Food Festival, a Closing Ceremony & Parade and many
other highlights on the agenda. Check website for updates.
Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), (0361) 758-995
GOLFER’S CHOICE
Nirwana Bali Golf Club was awarded The Choice Golf
www.kutakarnival.com
Course – Overseas 2009 from The Golfers’ Choice Awards
2009 presented by Golf Vacations Hong Kong Magazine in
July in Hong Kong. The Golfers’ Choice Awards covers three
categories, namely “Golf & Travel”, “Consumer Brands”,
and “Equipment” respectively. Golfers’ Choice Awards sets
up a platform for golf lovers to express their preference and
choice. An enjoyable golfing experience comes not just from
a good-conditioned golf course, but also from many other
PHOTO BY HENNY DESTYARINI
environmental and human-related factors such as ease of

travel, the availability of amusements for non-golfers nearby
the golf course, the golf ambience in the neighbourhood of
the golf course, etc. For most recreational golfers, the most
important thing is playing happily and playing healthily.
Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort
(0361) 815-900, www.lemeridien.com/bali

NEW&NEWS
SENSORY ESCAPES
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa announces the introduction of the
Tropical Rejuvenation spa care line by Pevonia Botanica. The Spa
at Maya in conjunction with Pevonia Botanica has carefully created
five new spa treatments using these tropical spa care products. The
Tropical Rejuvenation range includes three facial treatments; Rescue &
Repair Facial, Detailing F acial for Him, and Hydration Infusion Facial,
and two body treatments; Tropical Escape Papaya-Pineapple Crème
Fraiche Wrap and its anti cellulite Slimming Green Coffee Body Wrap.
The Spa at Maya’s well-known signature “Riverside Special” as well as
many other original spa treatments are also available.
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, (0361) 977-888; www.mayaubud.com
GRILL IT, JAPANESE WAY

Canang Bali Yakiniku Restaurant opened recently,
enriching the culinary options in the Kuta area. This grillroom
PHOTOS COURTESY MAYA UBUD AND PEVONIA BOTANICA
opened in early August and is managed by Wayan Suanda.

His previous experience at The Legian Bali built up his
confidence for running this business. This restaurant not
only offers genuine Japanese yakiniku but also continental
cuisine. In general, Yakiniku uses beef, pork, and innards
and is grilled just like barbeque. In a yakiniku restaurant,
guests will choose their own ingredients and grill their meat
choices on an built-in stove at their table. To enjoy charcoal
grilled meat, they need to first dip the meat in tare sauce.
Canang Bali Restaurant; Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 21, Kuta
(0361) 766-203, www.canangbalirestaurant.com
KERAMAS KING
Dean Bowen (Australia) won the Association of Surfing Professionals
(ASP) Grade 5-Rated Billabong Pro Junior Bali, the only ASP rated event
for 2009 in Indonesia, in late July. Held in magnificent surf over a four
day period at the famous Keramas Rivermouth on the east coast of Bali,
Bowen’s powerful backhand on-face surfing proved too strong for Teale
Vanner (Australia) in a one sided final. Bowen’s top two rides of a 7 and COURTESY PHOTO
a 7.5 and final total of 14.5 eclipsed Vanner’s two wave total of 7.5 for
the win. www.aspaustralasia.com, www.isctourcom
STAR KIDS
The St. Regis Bali Resort in Bali, comprising the St.
Regis Bali Resort, the Westin Resort Nusa Dua, the Laguna,
and the Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort proudly
launched the ‘Anak Bintang Campaign’ in support of the
TOS
community and children of Bali. This first ever campaign in

SY PH O
Indonesia provides children in Bali with motorcycle helmets

C O U R TE
for safe use on the roads. The four hotels have come
together to provide initial funding, and then will seek to raise
funds through public contributions.
www.starwoodhotels.com

CRAFT&CULTURE
PEJENG:
BETWEEN PAKERISAN
AND PETANU

Tracing down the
streams of the
Pakerisan and Petanu,
and visiting the idyllic
village of Pejeng, one
can easily find and
further understand
ancient Bali and the
Balinese through
various centuries-old
remnants and relics.
Opposite page: a Beji,

a place for holy water at Pura
Pengukur-Ukur temple;
right: a cave at the temple
where Kebo Iwa supposedly
meditated.
W
ater is the most have been found in that area, and most find accounts of natural disasters such as
fundamental are kept in a village named Pejeng. earthquakes, floods, volcanic eruptions
element in human Ancient Balinese archaeological and landslides that may indeed have
life. Humans sites range from Tirta Empul, a bathing covered up such a site.
thrive when place in Tampaksiring, to the Durga That important site may have
abundant water Kutri temple in the village of Kutri. But disappeared, not only by natural causes
supplies exist, so it’s no wonder that large all of it is basically centralized in Pejeng, but also possibly by human factors and
communities develop in areas rich in water. a village believed to be Bali’s central war. When one dynasty wins over the
Thus many cultures have begun by the kingdom until the rise of Asta Asura previous one, they will usually move the
riverside. Ratna Bumi Banten, who was the last capital city and destroy the old palace,
Many ancient kingdoms were located near king of classical Bali before its fall due as is believed to be the symbol of the
the banks of a river or in coastal areas. Egypt the Majapahit empire’s expansion in the previous dynasty’s hegemony. But the
developed by the river Nile. Indian culture 14th century. things that cannot be disturbed are the
started on the banks of the Indus. Sriwijaya, In regards to the government, people temples, the sacred places of devotion.
one of Indonesia’s largest historical kingdoms will instinctively imagine a palace as the Before the Balinese beliefs were united
in the 7th century, ruled from the side of the king’s house. But after looking around under Hinduism they lived as many sects,
Musi. And on our island here, ancient Bali Pejeng or going through the river’s namely Siwa, Budha, Bhairawa, and
was centralized between the Pakerisan and streams, you soon realize there is no Wisnu. People used statues as media
Petanu rivers. Many archaeological relics such relic. According to history, we to represent their gods and deities and

Pura Penataran Sasih, where the nekara and ancient statues
are kept. A Sangku Sudhamala from 1329 A.D. kept at Pura
Pusering Jagad. Opposite page: the ‘Arjuna Metapa’ site.
PHOTOS BY MADE SUWARDANA
placed them in temples. This established representative in Bali, as Kebo Parud was Based on Hindu belief the center is Siwa,
the temple as the institution that keeps also a Bhima Bhairawa adherent. and as the place devoted to Siwa you
everything together over time. Over time, Bhairawa is a religion that focuses on can find Lingga and Yoni at the pelinggih
the temples boasted another function - a devoting Durga as the Goddess of Death (shrine monument). The 1.2 meter phallus
silent witness of history. and of the Underworld. Every devotion is symbol of Siwa, while the 0.8 meter Yoni
Pejeng has many old temples with related to Durga is described with demonic symbolizes the feminine counterpart, in the
statues and archaeological relics in them. symbols or sinister properties, such as form of a vulva.
Entering the village, there is a temple next scary facial features or sharp tusks. Many When Lingga meets Yoni, fertility and
to the Museum of Archaeology named the statues like that are found in this temple. life results. The temple guard says many
Pura Kebo Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6- Only a few meters from Pura Kebo infertile couples come to the temple,
meter Bima statue that is described as Edan is Pura Pusering Jagat. The name begging for a child and so pray in front of
dancing on a stack of skulls. This statue is describes it as the center of the world. the shrine.
also known as Bhairawa and hails from the This temple is one of six important temples Another relic in the temple is Sangku
13th century, during Kertanegara’s rule of in Bali and it is located in the axis of the Sudamala, a large stone vase used to hold
the Singosari Kingdom in East Java. When island, hence its name ‘puser’ (meaning holy water. This vase has reliefs which tell
he ruled, he placed Kebo Parud as his center) and ‘jagat’ (meaning the world). about the world’s rotation conducted by

the deities and demons. The rotation is
done to achieve amerta (or holy water),
people believed it was a moon that fell
from the sky. A folk tale tells that a long,
Archaeologists
which promotes immortality. This vase long time ago the earth had two moons, estimate that this
dates from 1251 Saka or 1329 A.D.
Besides the vase, there are many
so the night was as bright as if it were day.
This caused thieves to restrict carrying out
kettle drum was a
statues that can be found in this temple. their activities at night. Then one day a medium for ancestral
These relics are similar to those in Pura
Penataran Sasih, another temple about
powerful thief flew up and urinated on the
moon, which made it lose its gleam, and
worship and was
500 meters from the Pusering Jagad subsequently it fell down to earth. That also a tool for praying
temple. The ancient stone statues stand moon fell in Pejeng; the local people kept
neatly in the temple. But there is one the “moon” in the temple and worshipped
for rain. One thing
special building with special relics, relics it. The temple’s name, Penataran Sasih, for sure is that it is
that are not made up of stone but made means ‘place of the moon’.
of bronze. Archaeologists estimate that the kettle
the largest bronze
One is the nekara or kettle drum, made drum is a medium for ancestral worship kettledrum found in
during the bronze age by the Dongson and is also a tool for praying for rain. One
culture around 2,000 years ago. This kettle thing that is certain about the bronze relic Southeast Asia.
drum is 1.86 meters in diameter and it has is that it is the largest bronze kettledrum
a unique story behind it. The surface is found in South East Asia.
round just like a full moon and so the local Continuing on the trail of the Balinese

in Pejeng. All relics such as statues or
temples are kept where they belong and
are kept by the local people who care for
them from generation to generation.
A staff member at the museum said that
the relics are not moved to the museum
but are left for the locals to keep. Because
the relics have functions other than as
mediums of devotion.
What the government body does is to
build the data and protect the sites. One
such example includes a building for the
Arjuna Metapa site in the middle of a rice
field near the Kebo Edan temple.
There is a statue of Arjuna with two of
his servants and some fairies who tried
to tempt him. Arjuna is a prince from the
Mahabharata epic. In Java, this epic was
Many relics are found not only in temples

but also in the middle of ricefields.
A temple next to the Museum

of Archaeology is Pura Kebo
Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6-
meter Bima statue that is
described as dancing on a
stack of skulls.
past, go to the Pura Pengukur-ukur in the Indonesia archipelago), including Bali. re-written through the Arjuna Wiwaha
Pejeng Kelod. In this temple is found an Behind that temple there is a gateway book by Mpu Kanwa, dating back to the
inscription that dates back from 1116 Saka with ancient stone steps named Goa 9th century. At the Arjuna Metapa site you
or 1194 A.D. Garba. Below the gateway there is a hole can see that Arjuna is praying in order to
This temple has a tight connection carved in a riverbank. It was considered acquire a magical weapon.
with the Prime Minister of the King of Kebo Iwa’s meditating place. Tracing the streams of Pakerisan and
Bali. The Balinese consider Kebo Iwa to The shrine is just beside the river, so Petanu, and visiting the Pejeng village,
be a Balinese hero for his patriotic action when you stand in front of the shrine, you helps us to understand ancient Bali and the
against Gajah Mada, the leader of the will clearly hear the sound of water. It is an Balinese through these various relics. ■
Majapahit troops, with his mission to ideal place to meditate. Text and photos by (Pejeng native)
dominate Nusantara (the other name for There are no archaeological excavations Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

INVITE&INDULGE
BEACHFRONT
DISCOVERY
L
ocated on the popular beachfront near the southern part of Kuta, the
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas stand as among the most familiar
and unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area.
The hotel offers a mix of 318 ocean view rooms, suites and luxury
beachfront villas, all surrounding a splendid pool and spread over 8
hectares of tropical gardens. The villas form only one of the many
choices at the resort. More familiar are its Superior rooms, located on the second up to
the fourth floor along the hotel’s perimeter, boasting comfortable and spacious rooms
with garden views. Its Ocean View rooms are centered on the resort’s garden and
main pool, and are uniquely angled for ocean, garden and pool views with their private
triangle-shaped balconies. The Private Garden and Pool rooms in the main building
have direct access from the private balcony to a private garden. Families may opt for
the Garden View Family or Ocean Front rooms.
The exclusive and stylish Discovery Beach Front Villas are very spacious. They each
offer 24-hour butler service, air conditioning, and access to all the 5-star facilities of
the hotel. The villas each have two master bedrooms, a kitchen, a luxurious bathroom,

The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel
& Villas is located on the popular
beachfront of the southern part
of Kuta, and stands as among
the most familiar and unofficial
landmarks of the area.

The recently an outdoor tropical shower and a private carte international menu all day as well
plunge pool overlooking the sea. as a weekly themed nightly dinner each
renovated The most spacious Discovery Beach evening. Teppan Noodle, one of the most
beachfront villas Front Villa can even be used for a wedding reasonably priced Asian restaurants in
party of up to 20 people, making the Bali, serves sushi and sashimi and la carte
are perfect for precious moment even more memorable, Asian dishes such as the special Grilled
honeymooners and matched with impressive decorations and

combined with magnificent views, excellent
Mahi-Mahi steak and Sop Buntut Goreng,
the Indonesian favorite of ox-tail soup.
also for the ultimate food and service. La Cucina serves up Italian, with pasta,
seaside escape. The recently renovated villas are

perfect for honeymooners and also for the
pizzas and light meals and seats up to 68
persons.
ultimate seaside escape. All the rooms at The KulKul Bar is where you can swim
the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas to in the main pool and grab light snacks,
have recently been upgraded to a very pizzas, sandwiches, refreshing beverages
high standard, and this includes a free WiFi and cocktails. The Sunset Lounge, located
Internet connection. in the lobby, offers pool and ocean
Dining choices abound. Enjoy one of views and serves light snacks, assorted
the biggest breakfast buffets on the island beverages and cocktails.
at The Pond Café, which serves an ala The ‘Green Globe Benchmark’ status

The hotel offers a mix
of 318 ocean view
rooms, suites and luxury
beachfront villas, all
surrounding a splendid
pool and spread over
8 hectares of tropical
gardens.

According to the
hotel staff, sea turtles regularly
come ashore at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and
the villas. To give them a better chance of survival on the busy
beach, the eggs are relocated to the nearby hatchery.
and Best Practice results achiever is on its According to the hotel staff, sea turtles
path to securing a sustainable future for regularly come ashore along Kuta Beach
The resort has a wide choice of restaurants
and sporting facilities as well as business and the environment. The first large scale solar at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and
meeting facilities, and it shares its vicinity hot water system in Bali has just started the villas. To give them a better chance of
with the namesake grand Shopping Mall and operating here. survival on the busy beach, the eggs are
beachfront amphitheater.
And recently, together with the Kuta relocated to the nearby hatchery.
Beach Sea Turtles Conservation, the Guests at the Discovery Kartika Plaza
Discovery Kartika Plaza started its ‘Protect should be ready for surprises, as they may
The Sea Turtles’ program in late July, well stumble upon ‘discoveries’ such as
releasing 90 baby sea turtles on the these. ■
hotel’s beachfront. This environmental Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi
event is planned to be held regularly Courtesy photos
at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel
in cooperation with the Kuta Beach ■ Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas,
Sea Turtles Conservation during “turtle Bali, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta
season”, to help create awareness and Beach, (0361) 751-067
protect the sea turtles. www.discoverykartikaplaza.com

PROFILE&PORTRAIT
Inspiring the
Whole World
Following her inspiring concert in
Jakarta, four-fingered pianist Hee Ah
Lee visited Bali for a holiday as well as
to hold a charity concert on August 14
in support of UNICEF, hosted by the
Westin Resort Nusa Dua.
W
hen we were its special program, we thought, “ sure fingers on each hand, no legs below the
notified that The we’ll make it there... it might be Steinway’s kneecaps, and mild brain damage.
Westin Resort Adam Gyorgy yearning to come back When she was 7 her mother, Woo Kap
Nusa Dua was to the island again with another of his Sun, started her on the piano to train her
extending an impressive recitals”. hands, as she couldn’t even hold a pencil.
effort to raise But our interest grew by leaps and Indonesia, amidst it August
funds for the Check Out for Children bounds when it was revealed that this Independence Day celebrations, had the
program (a global partnership between extraordinary guest was the four-fingered honor of having Hee Ah perform in Jakarta
Starwood Hotels & Resorts and UNICEF) pianist Hee Ah Lee. Hee Ah Lee (born on together with an orchestra of disabled
and that The Westin Resort Nusa Dua July 9, 1985 in Seoul, Korea) was born with children, to the awe of the audience.
was to invite an extraordinary pianist to severe disabilities, including having only two And following her inspiring concert in
Indonesia’s capital city, the four-fingered
pianist visited Bali for a holiday as well as
to hold a charity concert on August 14 in
support of UNICEF, hosted by the Westin
Resort Nusa Dua. Shortly thereafter, Bali
& Beyond’s Nyoman Ari Gunadi secured a
brief meeting with this inspiring persona and
her mother at the resort’s Club Lounge.
Mild-mannered and smiling cheerfully as
she entered on her wheelchair, assisted by
her manager and mother, she immediately
dispersed a unique aura throughout the
lounge. And as soon she was assisted on
to the sofa, she pressed her palms together
and said the Balinese welcoming phrase
“Om Swastiastu” fluently - to everyone’s

Surely I will!
When the concert evening came, she
performed 10 compositions, including the
promised “Fantasia Impromptu”, a simple
example of the achievement made by Hee.
And the surprise followed after, as
Hee not only could play the piano, but
could sing as well. Sun came to the stage
to talk together with Hee in between
her compositions, and joked that her
daughter’s singing was “not as good as her
piano playing.” But the audience in general
considered her voice “unique”.
Another surprise was that she sang the
heartfelt Indonesian song “Bunda” fluently
in Indonesian, while her piano partner Lee
Chun Hee played the grand piano.
“Bunda”, meaning “mother” in
Indonesian, was her tribute of respect
and love to her mother, the “figure in the
background” of her success. The bond
surprise. In broken English, with the aid just like a ten-fingered performance, I could between them was ever apparent, and the
of an interpreter, we engaged in a warm only play with my fingers until a special ambience of love was reflected through the
conversation with Hee Ah. pedal was brought up. Since then I have touching song, easily bringing tears to some
had four different piano teachers. of the audience’s eyes - but not for too long.
Hello Hee Ah, you sound as if you’ve Hee Ah is a cheerful soul, and her heart
been on the island for a while already! What’s your favorite piece? is magnificent. Spontaneous applause
How do you find it so far? Chopin’s Fantasie Impromptu. I started filled the air many times, together with
(Slightly giggling) Thank you. Just picking up to learn when I was 12, and it took me 5 laughter and cheers as she and her
some phrases. Matur sukseme... (“Thank years and 6 months to master. Practiced mother exchanged jokes through their brief
you” in Balinese). It’s a beautiful place, 10 hours a day. This piece became an presentations.
certainly different from Jakarta. I’m enjoying it! inspiration of hope for listeners. Hee Ah even brought a wave of laughter
to the audience as she rendered her
Sun, tell us a bit about how you got You obviously have many fans interpreter short of words, and when she
Hee Ah on the piano? worldwide. Who are you a fan of? jokingly called Andry, the Westin host and
When I started her learning the piano at Yes. Back in 2005 I had the wonderful MC that evening, “MC the handsome”.
the age of 6, no piano teacher would see opportunity to perform together with Hee Ah Lee and Sun continue to
her so she practiced with me instead. At Richard Clayderman through “A Ballad for bring hope and inspiration to the world
first she couldn’t even tap a beat with her 14 Fingers”. I’m a big fan of him. My other in appreciation for life, bringing home
left hand while her right hand played the idols are Mother Theresa and Gandhi. the message that you can never judge a
melody. It took her six months just to be person by their size or the limitations of
able to pick up and play the “Butterfly”, a What can we expect to see at your their physique, but rather by the magnitude
Korean folksong. concert, “Dream the Impossible of their heart. ■
Dream” later?
Hee Ah, how do you recall that Just like its theme, I wish to inspire all to
experience? make their dreams come true. I’ll be playing Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali
Even though I practiced rigorously so that 10 piano compositions... and there’ll be a (0361) 771-906; www.westin.com/bali
my four-fingered performance could sound bit of surprise... Be there, okay? www.heeah.com

PONDERINGPOINT
“TRULY” Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet

dance in its tourism promotion,
INDONESIA and it has become a serious

issue in Indonesia.
R
ecently Malaysia has been using the Pendet dance subject. Previously, the neighboring country has ‘claimed’ several
from Bali in some of their tourism promotional others such as the Reog dance from Ponorogo in East Java,
material. This has now come to the attention of the song Rasa Sayange from Maluku, the Hombo Batu tradition,
the Balinese, as previously there had been ‘claims’ the Folaya dance from Nias Island in North Sumatera, and the
over several Indonesian cultural heritage subjects Angklung orchestra from West Java.
taken by the neighboring country. This has caused various reactions from society. However, when
Many people who decide to go for their holidays to Bali are it comes to a conclusion, nearly all express their disapproval of
attracted by its unique culture and traditions. One of the myriad Malaysia’s act. Although the society has grown restless from the
of Balinese dances that are quite popular is the Pendet. In the matter, it is indeed a bilateral matter between two countries so it
beginning the dance functioned as a ceremonial opening dance, must be addressed by the government.
but later evolved into a secular function as a welcoming dance for On August 22, several social elements in Bali voiced their
important arriving guests. concerns. They expressed that this matter must not be ignored.
Professor Wayan Dibia from the Indonesian Arts Institute They were right in that eventually all Indonesia’s heritage might as
in Bali, who is an avid performing artist himself, explained that well become Malaysia’s. Meanwhile Malaysia reaps short and long-
the Pendet came from the tradition of ‘memendet’, which is to term profits, and eventually everyone would consider Indonesia a
mark the opening of a religious loser, as they would regard Malaysia as the ‘bona fide’ owner due
ceremony. Typical attributes to its incessant promotion overseas. It is almost a rule that history is
include heeling movements and made by those who have access and doctrinize their version of the
the pressing of palms together as truth continuously to people until they no longer know the real truth.
though in worship. Also typical is Yet the matter then faces the fact of who must register the
the act of sprinkling and tossing patent for this dance, and all of the cultural items that are a
flower petals. This dance people’s heritage. Due to its communal cultural nature, even the
later inspired the birth local society has no idea who created the dance in the first place
of other ‘new and exactly when the creative process took place. Logically those
creation’ dances. having the right to patent something are the creators, thus the
Yet lately government has no right to patent it.
the Balinese have Malaysia, one of the countries that borders Indonesia, has
been surprised by the indeed recently launched aggressive tourism promotions. Their
headlines about the use motto “Malaysia Truly Asia” tries to show that they have a
of the Pendet dance as multiethnic (Asian) population that lives side by side in harmony
part of Malaysia’s tourism and have contributed much to the Malaysia cultural scene.
promotion. By doing so, it It is with no doubt that Malaysia has close historical ties with
is regarded that Malaysia Indonesia. Both countries derive from the same Malay linguistic
‘has’ the Pendet and family, and in the 14th century Malaysia (or at that time known as
is inviting people to Malacca) was under the Majapahit Kingdom’s sovereignty.
come and view the But this in no way means that what Indonesia possesses also
performance in their becomes Malaysia’s. Both countries must uphold and respect
country. sovereignty, ownership, and good bilateral relations. Some people
Malaysia owns have jokingly expressed that hopefully the day will never come
the Pendet? when the motto changes to “Malaysia Truly Indonesia”, as too
This claiming of much Indonesian culture and heritage is claimed by the country,
Indonesian culture because in the end it would result in harsh relations between the
by Malaysia two countries and a negative impact on tourism in the long run. ■
is not a new Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photo by Gustra

ACTION&ATTRACTION
T
Bali Hai Cruises he invitation came from Bali Hai’s
Director of Operations, Poldi Ridge,
has joined forces as they were underway with their
with the Kurma Asih marvelous new Turtle Release Cruise.

The company, to the salute of other
village foundation members in the tourism industry and
and Conservation the environmental conservation community, now

includes this form of turtle conservation in its tour
International through a packages, combining a fun leisure activity, social
responsibility and environmental awareness all in one.
new turtle ‘adoption and And so we gladly accepted the invitation to
release’ initiative on the attend one fine Tuesday in early July. Travel agents,
members of the press and turtle admirers gathered in
island of Lembongan. the morning at Bali’s Benoa Harbor, anxious to climb
aboard the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan.
HATCHLINGS’
But before getting on board, we listened to
a brief presentation on what we were to expect
High Hopes
on the island. Present were Bali Hai’s Director of
Sales Pande Ardika as well as Ketut Sarjana Putra,
the Marine Program Director for Conservation
International Indonesia and a member of the Marine
A cute Olive Ridley hatchling Turtle Specialist Group which would also be the key
instinctively hurrying toward the sea. speaker at the main presentation on Lembongan.
Opposite page: waves await at Sunset
We then took off in the Bali Hai II and arrived
Beach on Lembngan Island.
“land-ahoy!” in less than an hour. However, the
catamaran had to transfer the excited load of
passengers to its fun-filled marine activity pontoon
first, where we got to have a half an hour go at
a semi-submersible tour, admiring the beauty

and aquatic life under the surface of of Conservation International explained expansion possibilities.
Lembongan’s waters. to the attentive participants about this Like other sea turtles, Olive Ridleys will
On the pontoon’s deck were large “best practice” in preserving Indonesia’s swim across large bodies of water, mating
green fiberglass containers that contained endangered turtle population. With past and exploring the world, yet the females
some cute Olive Ridley hatchlings, where efforts to save more turtles plagued by will always come back to Perancak Beach
the guests could have their first glimpse a lack of funds, Ketut is hopeful that the – which has the largest turtle population
of the little creatures. Pak Ardika first donations from Bali Hai Cruises and their in Indonesia – for nesting. Currently the
explained a bit about the specimens to future passengers will enable even more Kurma Asih Foundation has 364 nests in
us, then our Adopt a Turtle group were turtles to be saved in the future. its conservatory, with an average 80 eggs
led onto a motorized long boat to be Bali Hai Cruises has worked together per nest.
transferred to the island. with the villages of Kurma Asih in this Ketut explained that Indonesia has 134
Crossing to the island in no time, initiative through an adoption and release nesting spots in its beaches, with Green
refreshments and welcome drinks method. So far it has adopted over Sea Turtles being the majority species.
awaited before we continued towards a a hundred nests with 300 hatchlings Globally, the sea turtle population was
shelter where Pak Ketut Sarjana Putra released, and is looking for further missing from the world for 45 years.

... a very worthy program and
one which all visitors to the small
island should participate in.
For just US$10 you can adopt
and release a baby turtle - and
name it... and kiss it goodbye...
- and memories will last forever.
Sunset Beach, on the southeastern edge of Nusa

Lembongan, was the chosen location where
participants had the chance to participate in
releasing their ‘adopted’ baby turtles back into
the sea. The new highlight adds to the existing
activities at the Bali Hai Beach Club.
Perancak Beach in Bali however, had a

30-year gap before their return.
It is due to these many missing years
that most of sea turtles species are
listed as endangered. Bali also has the
somewhat shocking history of eating turtle
meat. And according to Ketut, this led
to huge complaints from many countries
around the world. And it was around 20
years ago that Ketut decided to turn his full
attention to sea turtle conservation.
“Among my main goals was to reform
the Balinese mindset about the use of
sea turtles as food, rather than being
repressive. Fortunately it turned out to be a
successful effort.”
In 1996, Ketut met Wayan Tirtan, a
former sea turtle hunter and the eventual
founder of the Kurma Asih Foundation.
“Back when I started the whole

PHOTO BY ARVID NICOLAS
campaign, there were about 30,000 turtles carapace is a dark olive green in color with
being slaughtered yearly. Now, there are a yellowish underside, hence the name.
almost none,” said Ketut. However, some When they are young, Olive Ridley
places on the island still offer illegal sea turtles have black-colored shells, which are
turtle satay and lawar, off-the-record. actually scales to protect themselves as
After the inspiring presentation at Bali they live around reefs.
Hai’s Beach Club, which opened new At the age of three, the color of the
horizons among the participants, the penyu sisik semu will turn grayish. And by
‘adopters’ hopped into the bemos owned the age of 10 they will turn brownish and
and operated by the village community totally lose their scales.
and headed towards Sunset Beach, It is believed that the Olive Ridley
a place on the southeastern edge of (Lepidochelys olivacea), also known in
Nusa Lembongan that was the chosen Indonesian as penyu sisik semu literally
location for guests to have the chance to ‘psuedo-fish-scale turtle’, return to nest on
participate in releasing their ‘adopted’ baby the same beach where they hatched. Olive
turtles back into the sea. Ridleys are omnivorous, feeding on crabs,
Olive Ridleys are lightly built turtles that shrimp, rock lobsters, sea grass, algae,
have an average adult weight of around snails, fish, sessile, pelagic tunicates and
50 kg. They have a high-domed shell with small invertebrates. They are sometimes
a carapace length of only 70 cm. The seen feeding on jellyfish in shallow waters

PHOTO BY HARY SUBASTIAN
PHOTO BY JESPER MEYER
COURTESY PHOTO
Besides the new turtle release highlight, Bali Hai Cruises has the fun-filled Reef Cruise pontoon, a semi-submersible to view the beauty of the underwater realm,
a private ‘Castaway Cruise’ onboard its Aristocat sailing catamaran, and accommodation options with its collection of Hai Tide Huts.
and can forage offshore in surface waters, packed into a white Styrofoam box, waiting successfully home and the empty sand
but can dive to depths of 150 meters. for their chance to choose one that they left only the happy participants moving
This unique conservation program could then release. slowly back from the waves. It was quite
underway with Bali Hai Cruises does more Several hours before, the turtles had impressive to see the interest from all the
than merely help save the turtles. Villagers been sent all the way from the Kurma participants, the children in particular,
are also rewarded for turtle eggs they bring Asih Foundation at Perancak Beach in having felt so ‘close to nature’.
into the safety of the hatchery, preserving the Jembrana Regency to Nusa Penida’s In all, this is a very worthy program and
them from dogs and other natural Lembongan Island — some 22 kilometers one which all visitors to the small island
predators. The money paid to the villagers east of the Bali strait. should participate in. For just US$10
provides additional income for them. The baby turtles instinctively headed for you can adopt and release a baby turtle
Later in the process, local people the waves. Some turtles were momentarily - and name it... and kiss it goodbye... and
are also employed to take care of the tossed back by the torrents, only to get memories will last forever.
hatchlings until they are eventually released back on their flaps and scuttle towards the The Bali Hai Turtle Team is also
back into the sea. The project is run under waves before eventually disappearing into currently running multiple release cruises.
the continuous support and supervision of the white foam. Some guests gave their Please contact them for release schedules
Conservation International Indonesia, Pak released turtle names, before watching and further program information. ■
Ketut and his team, who assure proper them hurry into the water. Some, although Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi
care while keeping detailed records for in only such a brief encounter, became
research purposes. quite attached to their adopted child that
The participants, who also consisted of brought cheers as well as tears. But overall ■ Bali Hai Cruises Turtle Team
children, eagerly watched the about 100 it did provide a ‘release’ for each adopter. Benoa Harbor, (0361) 720-331
adopted baby Olive Ridley turtles that were Each of the tiny hatchlings made it www.balihaicruises.com

BEYONDBALI
The beach at Lombang on the eastern tip of Madura. Right: there are deserted beaches like this one at Slopeng all along the north and east
coasts; and all of the adult population is employed in the manufacture of salt in the village of Pinggir Papas.
NYADAR:
Balinese heritage in a
Madura village
The discovery of Balinese heritage in a
remote village on the Muslim island of
Madura reveals a people proud of their
unique heritage.
T
he murmur of Sanskrit start flights to Sumenep from Surabaya and
mantras drift through the Bali. But for now the only way to reach
village beneath the white- Madura is by ferry.
flowered frangipani trees. A history of rebellion against the
In the shade of a communal kingdoms of old Java, coupled with mass
pavilion, old men with batik immigration from the island in more recent
head cloths prepare offerings of leaves, years, has left many Indonesians nervous
petals and holy water for the spirits of the of the place and hardly likely to recommend
ancestors while women load ceremonial it as a holiday destination, so few people
platters with sacred rice. But this is not visit. This is a shame, for the Madurese
Hindu Bali; this a remote village near people are among the friendliest you’ll
Sumenep on the Muslim island of Madura. meet, and the landscape of limestone hills
Here a community of salt-makers holds and rice and tobacco fields is remarkably
annual ceremonies to give thanks for their beautiful, also with some perfect deserted
prosperity and to commemorate their beaches on the eastern coastline.
ancestors – a party of Balinese soldiers. Madura’s reputation as rough and
Madura is separated from East Java by uncultured proves wildly unfounded in
a narrow strait. Sometime soon a bridge the old royal capital of Sumenep, which
will connect the island with the nearby city boasts a fine palace, or keraton, the last
of Surabaya, and Merpati Airline plans to one surviving in the province of East Java.

Villagers rush to be first into the inner sanctuary that houses the tombs of their ancestors.
Madura’s reputation Long the seat of Madurese kings, people

here are proud of their refined and courtly
by Angga Suto, a local holy man. Angga
Suto was walking across the mudflats that
as rough and traditions. Beyond Sumenep there is plenty surrounded what was then a poor fishing
uncultured proves more to explore. Aside from the beaches

and beautiful landscapes there is the
village, when he noticed that the seawater
that gathered in his own footprints left a
wildly unfounded in fascinating traditional culture. In the village crust of fine, white salt crystals when it
of Slopeng you’ll see the very best of the evaporated
the old royal capital carved dance masks found in Bali’s up- But it is not just their trade that makes
of Sumenep which market souvenir shops, made by craftsmen the people of Pinggir Papas unusual. Other
who learned the trade from their own Madurese confirm that the salt-makers
boasts a fine fathers. In other villages, batik and inlayed speak a strange dialect, riddled with
palace, or keraton, woodwork are specialties. But nothing Balinese words, for their forefathers actually
is quite as fascinating as the mysterious came from Bali.
the last surviving in ceremonies known as Nyadar, held by the In the 1560s, the story goes, a Balinese
East Java. people of Pinggir Papas. king led an army against Sumenep. They
Pinggir Papas lies beyond the fringe of landed on Madura’s eastern coast and
the forested land southeast of Sumenep. advanced on the royal capital. But the
The village is surrounded by a stark Madurese soon drove the invaders out,
moonscape of salt pans, and every adult in torching their camps and destroying their
the community works in the salt industry. warships. One small band of Balinese
According to legend, the process of making soldiers fled the battlefield and found their
salt was discovered many centuries ago way to a salty village on the coast where

they begged for asylum. It was given, on ancestral shrines. When the sun sets, the people of
the condition that they converted to Islam, Nyadar is the most important time of year Pinggir Papas do not return home across
and so the refugees settled in Pinggir Papas, for the people of Pinggir Papas, and even the river. Instead they take refuge with the
intermarrying with the locals and creating a those who have left Madura to seek work in villagers of Kebun Dadap and spend the
unique syncretic culture all their own. the big cities return for the ceremony. And long, hot night preparing offerings of rice to
More than four hundred years later this when the gate of the complex that houses be heaped in a neat cone on special plates
Balinese heritage still finds expression in the tombs of the ancestors is opened, a known as panjeng – an important heirloom
the Nyadar ritual. Three times a year during spectacular though good-natured struggle for each family.
the dry season on dates that are fixed erupts to be first into the inner sanctum. Old At first light the next morning the village
according to the full moon, the people of men in batik sarongs leap over gravestones, alleyways are deserted. The salt-makers
Pinggir Papas leave their work on the salt pushing the younger men aside in their mad have returned to the shaded ground near
pans to don traditional dress and cross a dash, while bulky women in headscarves the tombs for the second stage of the
narrow river through the mangrove forest jostle with their own husbands and sons for Nyadar ritual. Here an enormous spread of
to the neighboring community of Kebun a prime position. upturned red and black baskets sheltering
Dadap, where Angga Suto and the other Once everyone has squeezed into the the rice offerings make a bizarre sight.
revered ancestors are buried. inner courtyard, prayers mixing Sanskrit A traditional religious leader known as a
The sacred tombs stand on a low hilltop and Arabic are made and the tombs kyai leads the ceremonies, reciting a string
amongst the trees beside the river. It is are anointed with petals and holy water. of Arabic prayers, Sanskrit mantras and
here that the Nyadar ritual is held. Every Villagers mark their foreheads with a fragments of old Javanese and Balinese,
family brings a package of petals and murky paste made from rice-water and blending the sacred languages of Islam
shredded leaves – reminiscent of the daily betel nut – another mysterious echo of and Hinduism into a seamless chant.
Balinese offerings – to place before the Hindu practice. Four old men called pangolo assist the
The royal tombs, burial place of the

kings of Sumenep, at Asta Tinggi
near Sumenep.

TANJUNGBUMI
MADURA
KALIANGET
BANGKALAN Madura Island SUMENEP
SAPUDI ISLAND
PAMEKASAN
SAMPANG
SURABAYA RAAS ISLAND

CAMPLONG GILIRAYA ISLAND
GILI-GENTENG ISLAND
The people of
Pinggir Papas
are proud of their
unique heritage,
and for them the
Nyadar ritual and the
memory of Angga
Suto are at the heart
of their culture.
During the Nyadar ceremony graves are blessed with holy water and offerings of petals and betel nut are made.
kyai. They wear patchwork waistcoats Papas where the sacred rice is dried then of their unique heritage, and for them the
of colored cloth, passed down through a little of it added to the cooking pot each Nyadar ritual and the memory of Angga
the generations and only used during the morning during the coming year, passing Suto are at the heart of their culture. They
Nyadar ritual. Their task is to make a its luck and blessings on and into the daily are happy to let respectful visitors watch
careful count of the rice offerings. meal. Within half an hour the place is the event – and even to share a little of
When prayers are over, the villagers deserted, with only a few scraps of leaves their sacred rice with them when prayers
open the baskets and scoff a few handfuls fluttering on the soft breeze to mark where are over. And although they consider
of the rice, now blessed by god and the the ritual took place. themselves to be devout Muslims, they
ancestors. Then they hurry home to Pinggir The people of Pinggir Papas are proud are proud of their Balinese heritage and
of the hospitality that saw their ancestors
give asylum on this remote coastline. The
Nyadar ritual is their way of showing this. ■
Text and photos by Tim Hannigan
For information about the Nyadar

ceremony, or about Sumenep and the rest
of Madura (well worth a visit at any time of
year), you can contact Kurniadi Wijaya of
the official Sumenep tourist office. He can
INDONESIA be reached on (+62) 081-793-306-48 or at

kurniadi@consultant.com.

CAPITALCORNER
A huge mural of spaceships and some other objects by the internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta
artist Eko Nugroho fill the interior features of the recently-opened Potato Head.
THE HOT I
sn’t it always interesting to see what
kind of places steal the hearts of
Jakarta’s hang-out goers? Having
heard all the buzz and fuss about the
&
recently-opened Potato Head, Kathy
Petite decided to bring her inquisitive
mind and appetite to this hot and hip
restaurant on the outer edge of Pacific
Place’s ground floor.
But it’s not a weekend today! That’s
what I mumbled to myself with a tone
of surprise while looking at the mostly-
SMASHING
occupied tables and the crowd that was
queuing at the front. Is it a magnet of being
a new place or what it offers that leads
POTATO
to this addiction? I was about to find out.
Walking into the place for the first time,
what caught my eye was the huge mural of
spaceships and some other objects by the
internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta artist

Eko Nugroho. Cute and warm, it brings Accompanied by sweet caramelized onions to share with a couple of friends. Chicken
out the playful side of the restaurant. on a bed of wild rocket, the beef tenderloin and Prawn Dumpling came next. Freshly
I walked further. On my left side, was nice and juicy. The salmon got along homemade, the dumpling was filled with
opposite the giant mural wall, was a long very well with its spicy and sour tropical minced chicken, prawn and mixed spices
bar. Going up to the upper floor there fruit salsa, whereas the Peking duck drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty
is a comfortable mezzanine reached by was very rich although a bit sweet. The chili vinegar dressing. For Escargot fans,
traversing a wooden bridge. The subtle joy of a crunchy bite came from the Nori Potato Head offers a rich one that was
lighting of the space was accompanied a Wrapped Prawn. The dish they gave me prepared with gratin of garlic and herb
lovey-dovey couple in their mid-twenties had a plate of three crispy prawn “spring butter.
exchanging passionate looks. Next to their rolls” wrapped in Japanese seaweed and For sandwich or bread junkies, the Philly
table was a gathering of friends, bursting a tiny bowl of creamy roasted capsicum Cheese Steak Sandwich is a great option.
out in laughter and engaging in chitchat. wasabi dip. A sizeable amount, enough Coming on a wooden cutting board, you
But even more liveliness came from the
outdoor area downstairs. Cozy large
lounge sofas and tables were crowded
by yuppies and expats sipping different
kinds of colorful cocktails and munching
appetizers. It was fun and relaxed.
Having taken a glimpse of the place
I finally sat down at my reserved table.
There were four starters listed on the
menu and they all did a good job of
making me drool. The Trio of Mini Flat
Bread came on a wooden platter. There
was seared Tasmanian salmon, thin slices
of beef tenderloin, and crispy Peking
duck with cucumber scallion salad.
“Having taken a
glimpse of the place
I finally sat down at
my reserved table.
There were four
starters listed on the
menu and they all did
a good job of making
me drool.”

The desserts are another side of heaven. Don’t you
dare walk out of the place without trying the heaven-
sent Oven Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when it
gets soaked and drowned in the melting
vanilla ice cream.
will be blown away by the satisfaction of with saliva-inducing names, I had to take chili, garlic, sweet cherry tomatoes and
enjoying the big, thick, long bread with some time before putting my finger on fresh basil leaves, the Tuna Spaghetti Aglio
melted white cheese covering the top. something. Enjoying the Basmati Basil Rice Olio came as a delicious pick from the list
Stuffed inside were thin slices of tenderloin Pilaf, the Lemon Chili Garlic Prawn came of pastas.
steak sautéed with sweet onions and in quite a hearty portion. But what turned A thought came to my mind. Would
mixed mushrooms. Lying next to it was a out to be the ultimate satisfaction from it be a real Potato Head evening without
handful of French fries and a small portion the main courses was certainly the Char exploring their cocktails? Of course not.
of salad. If you desire no presence of meat, Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef Tenderloin Getting ready to drink more than just the
you will still find gastronomic pleasure at Tornado. Made perfectly with caramelized very adventurous Ice Lemon Tea, I turned
Potato Head. The Grilled Vegetable Panini onions and a mixed peppercorn sauce that my eye towards their extensive list of
is proof. It’s ciabatta bread filled with a mix was all buttery and sweet, every slice was cocktails. For Martinis only, there is quite
of grilled vegetables and sweet basil served a tender and succulent delight. Coming a range of choices including a Vanilla &
with homemade tomato jam. with baby cress salad, you can choose Maple Syrup Martini, the PH Espresso
As usual, choosing the main course either shoestring potato fries or mashed Martini, the JM’s Martini and the Pistachio/
could not be done instantly. Spoiling me potatoes. With a combo of green capers, Rock Melon Martini just to mention a few.

JM’s Martini came in a deep seductively try the moist Warm Sticky Toffee Date
red color with a slice of dragon fruit, while Pudding. A range of delectable flavors from
Freshly homemade, Chicken Prawn Dumplings
were filled with minced chicken, prawn and mixed the Pistachio/RockMelon Martini offered Haagen-Dazs ice creams are available
spices drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty chili a mix of fruit with the zing of vodka. With too. If sharing, enjoy the sinful delight of
vinegar dressing. shaken vodka and a twist of lime and the Mini Profiteroles Glace, showered with
lemon, the Citrus Sorbet Gimlet came out warm chocolate sauce. See if you still want
zesty and refreshing. The stronger kick to share it the next time you come!
came from their Mary’s such as the Potato Starters range from Rp 42,000 (Nori-
Head Signature Mary and the Australian, Wrapped Prawn) to Rp 55,000 (Escargots
the latter requiring a little time to get used or Trio of Mini Flatbread). Mains start from
to its bitter taste. For something simpler Rp 80,000 and go up to Rp 260,000 for
and lighter, go for Bellini. the Char-Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef
The desserts are another side of Tenderloin. Desserts are from Rp 40,000
heaven. Don’t you dare to walk out of the to Rp 55,000 with Rp 25,000 for each
place without trying the heaven-sent Oven scoop of ice cream. Cocktails range from
Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when Rp 80,000 to Rp 95,000. ■
it gets soaked and drowned in the melting Text and photos by Kathy Petite
vanilla ice cream, no piece of it got soggy,
it stayed crispy. Another to die for dessert
is the Blueberry Galette, crumbly polenta ■ Potato Head, Pacific Place Mall G51A,
galette wedges with blueberries and sweet SCBD, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53,
lemon infused in a yoghurt topping. Or (021) 5797-3322

BEYONDUPDATES
FROM EAST TO WEST

Aston International announces the opening of its Aston Natsepa Ambon
Resort & Spa as the first internationally managed 4 star resort in Ambon. The
hotel offers 96 deluxe rooms and suites, all with large private balconies and
breathtaking ocean views. Also recently announced was its three star Aston City
Hotel brand expansion by signing a management agreement for the Aston Soll
Marina City Hotel on Sumatra’s Bangka Island. The new property is the 10th
hotel to become a member of Indonesia’s fastest growing 3 star hotel group and
will feature 120 modern and functional rooms and several meeting rooms.
Aston International, (021) 831-8800; www.aston-international.com
RETAINING REPUTATION
Telkomsel has successfully maintained its award status for
7 consecutive years for its kartuHALO postpaid services and
simPATI prepaid services. Pictured is Telkomsel Merchant
Program Manager Abdullah Fahmi (right) at the Indonesian Best
Brand Award (IBBA) 2009 reception with SWA magazine Editorial
Head Kemal Effendi Gani (left) and MARS Director Asto Sunu
Subroto in July. Telkomsel achieved the highest IBBA Platinum
Award rating for retaining its status. The IBBA award presented
by SWA Sembada magazine and MARS marketing research
institute is a form of appreciation of brands with the best
business operations throughout the year. Surveys are carried out
over a number of product categories in 7 large cities in Indonesia
(Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Makassar, Medan, Semarang, and
Balikpapan) and involve 2,600 respondents through multistage
random samplings. www.telkomsel.com
EPIC INSPIRED
The Hotel Tugu Lombok has been listed in the Hot List of the World’s
Top New Hotels 2009 in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine, featuring
beautiful artifacts and antiques with a heavenly tropical landscape, as well
as an architectural style that has been inspired by the beautiful legends
of the Mahabharata epic. In 1361 three books were written by Empu
Prapanca from the Majapahit Kingdom. The most famous one is known
as Negara Krtagama, literally ‘the course of the creation of a country’,
and was recorded during the golden times of King Hayam Wuruk. The
Negara Krtagama describes East Javanese temples that functioned as a
silent, peaceful places to worship. It is these temples in Negara
Krtagama which inspired the architecture of the Hening Swarga
Spa Temple at Hotel Tugu Lombok. The open-air spa temple
boasts giant open-air room with nooks lit by oil lamps, an
extra-long spa bed for both spouses to enjoy treatment head-
to-head, and a giant Jacuzzi bathtub with jets. Facing the Indian
Ocean, reliefs of temples and staircases lead up to the top of
the temple and then to a magical dinner under a full moon. Yoga
or meditation can be held next to the soaring tower of beautiful
Singhasari and Majapahit statues with a 180-degree ocean view
surrounded by palm trees. Contact Hotel Tugu Lombok for this
month’s interesting packages.
Hotel Tugu Lombok, Sire Beach, Sigar Penjalin village,
Tanjung, Lombok, (0370) 620-111; www.tuguhotels.com

BEYONDUPDATES
APPRECIATION OF LIFE
Vivi Yip Art Room presents an exhibition of art in
appreciation of life through Faeries. The meaning of life
is not always arrived upon at the conclusion of a grand
debate or journey. It can be felt. It can be sensed. It can be
stumbled upon like delicate little plants that strive for light
in the most unlikely places. Attempting to grow out of the
darkest chasm – even polluted places long abandoned.
Absorbing carbon from the air to free oxygen, giving green
hope to grey bareness. Faeries represent this subtle,
eternal striving to move towards light. Vivi Yip Art Room
celebrates this hope through the works of eight visual
artists (Ali Rubin, Erika Ernawan, Indra Leonardi, Lovis
Ostenrik, Mayumi Haryoto, Rudi Mantofani, Syagini Ratna
Wulan, and Tromarama). Many forms came to be in the
space dedicated for faeries. Each artist’s visual exploration
of the friction between these magical forces of hope with
his or her personal concerns became sculptures, paintings
on mirrors, photography printed on canvas, manual and
digital illustrations, installations and a video documentary.
Vivi Yip Art Room, Lot 2-3 The Promenade
Jl. Warung Buncit Raya 98, South Jakarta
(021) 7900-480; www.viviyipartroom.com
PAINTING PAILS
The Melia Purosani Hotel donated painting pails to the
Taman Pintar in Yogyakarta on August 1st to show their
commitment to society and to the environment through its
Community Involvement Program. The Melia Purosani invited
elementary school students in Yogyakarta to join in clean-
up and painting activities. They collected 23 garbage bins
and donated them to Taman Pintar, a city park built by the
Yogyakarta government as a place where people can study
and relax. This program’s aim is to encourage the students’
sense of belonging to the environment. The assignment was
opened by Edy Heri Suasana, manager of Taman Pintar, and
followed by Melia Purosani management and Yogyakarta’s
city government officials.
Melia Purosani Hotel, Yogyakarta, (0274) 589-521
www.meliajogja.com
ILLUMINATION
The Tony Raka Art Gallery in Jakarta presents an art exhibition
titled “Illumination”, presenting paintings by selected contemporary
artists including Mangu Putra, FX Harsono, Putu Sutawijaya, Yunizar,
Sutjipto Adi, Made Djirna, I.B. Purwa, Made Arya Palguna, Wayan
Sujana Kenyem, Wayan Sudarna Putra, Rudy Sri Handoko, Ipong
Purnama Sidhi, Walter van Oel, and Filippo Sciascia. They belong to
different generations of artists who actively color the Indonesian art
scene today – from the “senior” ones such as FX Harsono (b. 1949)
to the younger ones such as I.B Purwa (b. 1977). This exhibition
is designed to highlight some interesting facets of Indonesian
contemporary art, and will be held at the Sampoerna Strategic
Square, Exhibition Room #GF – 03A, Ground Floor, North Tower,
Jl. Jendral Sudirman, Kav 45, Jakarta, from Monday – Friday: 10
am – 7 pm, Saturday – Sunday: 10 am– 5 pm, and runs through
September 13.
Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas No. 86, Mas, Ubud
(0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com

COMMUNITYCALENDAR
THISORIENTED 2ND STAGE

Biasa Artspace presents an exhibition featuring the
works of Matteo Basilé through September 30. This
exhibition is in collaboration with Il Ponte Contemporanea
- Rome. It is the second chapter of a project that Basilé
EMOTIONAL ALLEGORIES recently presented at the 53rd Venice Biennial (2009).
Biasa Artspace, Jl. Raya Seminyak 34, Kuta
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of paintings by Ida Bagus
(0361) 847-5766, www.biasaart.com
Ipong Purnama Sidhi titled ‘Emotional Allegories’ from September
3 to October 5. In his current work each canvas is dominated by a
human figure(s) or face displaying a distinct emotional state. Interaction
with others and symbolic peripheral images are used to create virtual
allegories. Ipong’s technique is strongly influenced by graphic art
sensibilities with extensive use of black outlines over bright colours.
Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay
(0361) 701-010, www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
‘TERRORANCE
TOLERISM’ THE GARDEN
Hanna Art Space presents a painting Komaneka Fine Art Gallery presents an exhibition
exhibition featuring the works of I titled Taman, literally meaning ‘garden’ in Indonesian,
Ketut Teler titled ‘Terrorance Tolerism’ featuring the works of namesake artist Pande Ketut Taman.
from September 11 - 30. Works by I Following his last solo exhibition in Jakarta in 2004, Pande
Ketut Teler are inspired by his deep Ketut Taman now returns working with various forms
journey and fight to invent the essence and elements upon his canvases. Elements are present
of diversity. The differences in color, in the form of paintings, sculptures and installations. The
ideology and or clan sometimes raise exhibition opens September 25 and runs through October
conflict. The two inseparable sides 25. The gallery is open everyday from 8 am – 8 pm.
are only harmonized with tolerance Komaneka at Monkey Forest, Jalan Monkey Forest,
(accepting diversity as the power of life). Ubud, (0361) 976-090, www.komaneka.com
Hanna Artspace, Jalan Raya
Pengosekan, Ubud, (0361) 978-216
www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com
BEJEWELED
The Gallery Boutique of the
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa features
a unique collection of jeweled batik
tapestries designed by Annemarie
Kipar that are on display through
September 15. The German-born MEMORY OF ASIA
artist decorates her beautiful batik Tonyraka Art Gallery presents an exhibition of art by
selection with beads, sequins and Midori Hirota from September 3 to 26. Hirota has single-
stones piece by piece, creating handedly restored between herself, the Japanese woman
beautifully glittering tapestries. and the war victims of the Japanese, the bond of humanity.
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Tonyraka Art Gallery
(0361) 977-888 Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas, Ubud, (0361) 781-6785,
www.mayaubud.com www.tonyrakaartgallery.com

MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH
September 1 Local Bali observance
Police Women’s Day
RETRO- National observance September 21 and 22
Idul Fitri 1430 Hijriyah,
SPECTIVE September 4 Muslim New Year - Muslim
Purnama ketiga, The third full observance
Griya Santrian present moon
the works of I Nyoman Mandra, the leading artist Balinese Hindu observance September 21
International Day of Peace.
of the “classical” school of Balinese painting, the art of the Kamasan September 8 Dedicated to peace
village in Klungkung. Born in 1946, Mandra comes from an important Alphabet (Aksara) Day (specifically the absence
family of artists, his maternal grandfather being Rambug, probably National observance of war) such as might be
occasioned by temporary
the best of the painters working in the late 19th and early 20th International Literacy Day. ceasefire in a combat zone.
century. Mandra is exhibiting his works in Griya Santrian through International observance International observance,
recognized by the UN recognized by the UN
September 30. There are also some Kamasan works of Mangku Its aim is to highlight the
Sura, I Wayan Pande Sumantra, Ni Wayan Sri Widani, I Nyoman Adi importance of literacy to World Alzheimer’s Day
Prabawa, and Ni Made Sri Rahayu at the Gallery. individuals, communities and International observance
societies.
Griya Santrian Gallery, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur September 22
(0361) 288-181, www.santrian.com September 9 World Car Free Day
National Sports Day International day
National observance
September 24
RIPPLES September 11
Indonesian Radio Day
Agricultural Day
National observance
Alila Living Gallery at Alila National observance
September 26
Ubud features a solo exhibition World First Aid Day Statistics Day
by Rie Mandala titled “Wandering International observance National observance
Ripples”, through September 27.
September 15 European Day of Languages
From her native country of Japan, International Day of Aimed to encourage language
across Asia, to Canada and to the Democracy learning across European
International observance countries.
US, Rie has lived, travelled and recognized by UN European observance
encountered a mix of different
cultures along the way. This September 16 September 27
International Day for Post, Telecommunications
collection of 20 works of art offers Preservation of the Ozone and Telegraph Day
a glimpse into her journeys. Layer National observance
Alila Ubud, (0361) 975-963 International observance
recognized by UN World Tourism Day
www.alilahotels.com International observance
September 17
Indonesian Red Cross Day September 28
National observance Railway Day
UBUD: GREENER National Transportation Day
National observance
The Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) is promoting Ubud as National observance Right to Know Day
International observance
a green destination with a series of charitable and environmental September 18
activities and hosting a seminar. The UHA is a non-profit, non- Tilem ketiga, World Rabies Day
government organization comprised primarily of hoteliers and The third New Moon A global initiative to raise
Balinese Hindu observance awareness about the
allied members who actively service the hospitality industry. The continuing burden of rabies
UHA will visit the temple of Pura Gunung Rawung in the village of September 19 and how the disease can be
Tumpek Pengatag/Uduh, prevented
Taro to pray and to plant 300 white cempaka trees this month, Day devoted to Sang Hyang International observance
as well as promote the spirit of ecological responsibility in Ubud Sangkara, guardian of plants
by participating once again in the annual ‘Clean Up the World Balinese Hindu observance September 29
National Scholar’s Day
Weekend’. International Talk Like National observance
On September 8, the UHA will be hosting a seminar with key a Pirate Day.
speakers marketing specialist Rhenald Kasali and spiritual master Parody holiday created in September 30
1995 by John Baur and Mark Commemoration of the
Anand Krishna, as well as other prominent representatives. Anand Summers of Albany, Oregon. September 30, 1965
Krishna will talk about “Spiritual Tourism – the spirit of tourism”, at movement.
September 20 National observance
the Convention House at the Royal Pita Maha Resort. This will be Hari Puputan Badung
followed by a cocktail party to celebrate UHA’s anniversary. Commemorating the Badung Last week of September
Ubud Hotels Association Kingdom’s war against the World Maritime Day
Dutch, culminating in the International observance,
c/o Pita Maha A Tjampuhan Resort & Spa whole royal family committing recognized by the UN.
www.ubudhotelsassociation.com suicide

SEE&SEEN
DOUBLE
DIVA
TAKES
Hard Rock Centerstage
featured a concert by the
phenomenal Indonesian singer
Anggun, who entertained her
Indonesian fans on the Anggun
Roadshow 2009 of five cities, Bali,
Surabaya, Bandung, Yogyakarta
and Medan. Anggun began
her “step” in Sand Island, and
collaborated with Indonesian singer,
Dewi Sandra. In March, America
Online (AOL) Survey chose her
as number four of the world’s
diva singers after Kyle Minoque,
Vanessa Paradis, and Rihanna.
www.anggunroadshow2009.com
OUT TO SEA!
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel &
Villas together with Kuta Beach Sea Turtles
Conservation held ‘Protect the Sea Turtles’
in late July, releasing 90 baby sea turtles on
the beach in front of the hotel. This event is
to be held regularly during the “turtle season”
to help create awareness. Discovery
Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Jl. Kartika
Plaza, South Kuta, (0361) 751-067
www.discoverykartikaplaza.com
THAI HIGH
Black Canyon Coffee Indonesia received the Thailand Best Friend (TBF) Award
2009 from the Thai Prime Minister in early August. The award was given as a token of
CANGGU CHAMPION
Thailand’s appreciation towards its business partners outside of Thailand. 52 companies Mustofa Jeksen from Kuta Beach won his first ever
from all over the world received awards in various categories. Black Canyon Coffee Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Champion Tour contest at
Indonesia received its award in the restaurant category. Black Canyon is expanding with the 6-Star Oakley Pro 2009 in Canggu Beach on August
what is anticipated to be the world’s largest outlet in Denpasar. 21. He surfed against fellow Kuta Beach local Dedy
Santoso in a 25 minute final. Jeksen has a well-deserved
reputation as one of the best up-and-coming young
surfers in Bali at 20 years of age, having a great repertoire
of radical maneuvers. Placing equal third were Garut
Widiarta and Devis Ratif, both also from Kuta. The day
was the culmination of four days of competition at Canggu
Beach, the west coast of Baliís premier surfing arena.
The next event on the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing
Championship tour will be the Rote Open 2009, from
September 16-19 on the island of Rote in East Indonesia.
ISC Office, (0361) 768-293; www.isctour.com
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS
HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a

small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off
Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees,
this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of
modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family
style hospitality and service.
FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right

place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun.
Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy
lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks.
Free exclusive broadband internet access.
LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is
situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from
many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International
Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes
drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.
CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017
Email: sales@mentarisanur.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart

of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the
property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali
while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and
beaches within easy walking distance.
FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant,

bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming
pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer,
snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet
connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD
telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar,
personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming
pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing.
LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes
drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic
centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.
CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792
E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and

villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area
for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches.
With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for
honeymooners, party goers and fashionista.
FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and
meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library,
Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection.
Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding
Package.
LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches,
Shopping area, and Boutiques.
CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, ph : 0361-738001
The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali, Ph: 0361-738001
Fax : 0361-738002 Sales : 0361-738008
E-mail: Info@thehavenbali.com; Website: www.thehavenbali.com
HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three

hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping
district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s
signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality
service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock!
FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and

luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage
outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles.
LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes
drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable
accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury.
CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869
E-mail: rock@hardrockhotels.net; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net

SEE&SEEN
z
FOURTH FESTIVITY
The fourth Sanur Village Festival (SVF) took place from
August 12 – 16 at the Mertasari Beach in Sanur. This
year’s festival was themed “Marine Life”, with various
activities and events highlighted in the five day fun-filled
event. An opening ceremony was held with Balinese
artists presenting a special contemporary musical
performance as well as an arts and cultural parade
marking the start of the festival. www.gotosanur.com
LEGENDS LIVE
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa welcomed five maestros of Balinese dance at the
opening night of the fourth annual Nikko Bali Cultural Appreciation Nights, held at the
Kupu Kupu Amphitheatre on August 5. The five maestros were Ni Jero Puspawati,
Ni Jero Gadung, Gusti Ayu Raka Rasmi, Ni Ketut Arini and Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana.
Each of them performed a dance that amazed guests. At the conclusion of the event,
the management of the Nikko Bali Resort and Spa honored these maestros and the
audience also had the chance to take photos on stage.
Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com
REIMAGINED
The Patra Bali Resort & Villas
held a re-launch event on August
14, inviting travel agents, media,
and the hospitality industry of Bali to
attend. It was hosted by new GM
Hakim Affan and his team. The resort
CLEAN-UP started a major renovation in March
The Beach Clean-up of 2002 and now further introduces
Campaign 2009 was part its villas. The Patra Bali Resorts &
of the Sanur Village Festival Villas, (0361) 764 250
2009, with hotels, restaurants,
travel agents, dive shops, art
shops and other businesses
in the Sanur area showing
their enthusiasm and support.
Members of the Sanur
tourism industry volunteered
to coordinate this campaign
in three different zones
throughout the Sanur area.
BRIAN ‘N HIS BRAIN

Dominic Brian, a 12-year-old boy from Kuta,
accomplished his “Guinness World Records” attempt at
Bali Zoo in mid August after successfully displaying his
ability to memorize 76 random numbers in 60 seconds.
Brian previously broke the Indonesia Record Musuem’s
(MURI) record of memorizing 52 cards in 100 seconds
and 100 numbers in 12 minutes. Pictured is his father
Gidion Hindarthio and Guinness World Records Asia
representative Alex Iskandar Liew. www.slcbali.com
KITE FLYIN’
The Bali Hyatt held its 12th Annual Kite
Competition on July 29. All departments
challenged each other with their modern and
colorful traditional kite creations and their kite
flying abilities. Respective kite artists from each
department took turns making kites at the
Temple Garden for 9 days with a “Green” theme.
The event commenced with a parade from the
Telaga Naga Restaurant.
Bali Hyatt Sanur, (0361) 281234
www.bali.resort.hyatt.com
SEE&SEEN
RECHARGE
RESTART...
Bali & Beyond and ENVY presented Recharge
Night, a hospitality industry and marketing party on
August 7 at the newly launched beachfront dining venue
of the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna on
Jalan Wana Segara in Tuban.
The party was themed ‘Recharge Your Vices’ tying
in with the venue’s name. Entertainment highlights
included Capoeira performances by world
famous Senzala, Djembe drummers by United
Percussion and DJ performances by DJ Aan
(ENVY), and a ‘Vice Hunt’.
The team at Bali & Beyond Magazine would
like to thank all those who attended the fun
night. Further thanks go to Stephane Varoquier,
General Manager of Holiday Inn Resort Baruna
Bali, and Billy Latief, Tasya Auliya and the
whole team of ENVY for hosting the party with
such a nice venue, good food and attractive
entertainment - and also to the main sponsors
Gigi Van Kuijk and Derry Hasibuan of Hatten
Wines, and Andy of Bali Moon Liqueurs.
Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali
Jalan Wana Segara 33, Tuban
(0361) 755-577
www.bali.holidayinn.com
SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI
An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals
Doing Business Among Friends
SPLENDID CHINESE MEAL AT

BALI DYNASTY‘S GOLDEN LOTUS RESTAURANT
A Splendid Chinese meal at Bali Dynasty‘s Golden Lotus Restaurant, with fully loaded
“Lazy Susan’s” carrying a veritable feast to the 90 members and guests comfortably
seated at the large circular tables in the newly redecorated Golden Lotus Restaurant. The
wonderful menu included hot and cold appetizers, braised minced beef soup “Sihu” style
with coriander, stir fried prawn with Vietnamese sauce, braised beef Saigon style with
black pepper and spring onion, deep fried crispy chicken with Szechuan sauce, braised
vegetables with oyster sauce, special fried rice and chilled fresh mango pudding. WOW!
UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI

The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking
and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are:
October 2 - The Samaya - Seminyak
November 6 - Hu’u Bar/Nutmegs Restaurant - Petitenget
December 12 - Annual Festive Season Ball - Grand Hyatt - Nusa Dua
January 8 - Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort - Nusa Dua
February 5 - Sanur Paradise Plaza - Sanur
ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI

Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization
in the world with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism
industry management and professionals in fields of accommodation, transportation, tours,
travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media.
Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in
Membership Growth
For information on joining Skal and participation lunches and events

contact Gede Juwena at the Skal Bali secretariat on
(0361) 784 0212 or at skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

N
W E

ble Six
M Fish Market
Jl. Dou
Nusa Dua
s
Bagu na
•
ra
Jl. Pu Taru Buddhist Temple
dma S
Jl. Pa Art Market
+ Medical Center
Jl. Le
N
gian
Jl. Melasti
S
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Jl. R
Galleria
H Harris Hotel
aya
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S
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Kuta Sea
H View
• Ground Zero
Monument • Public Telecomunication
Kuta
aya
japahit
Jl. R
Jl. Ma
Kuta C Hard Rock Cafe
Jl. Pantai Kuta

Bali Galleria S
H Grand Mirage
S Kuta Square
ai
hR
H Aston
gura
+
ss N
a
Clinic
laz
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Jl. Pratama
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Jl.
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Discovery Shopping Mall

ban
H Melia Benoa
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Jl. Han
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H Sanur Paradise
Jl. Pratama Raya
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Da
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Jl. Bilok
Jl. Danau Buyan
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ur
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Jl. Tegeh Agung Jl. Sindu

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H Sindu Beach
a3
Jl. Kurusetr
Sanur Paradise M Village Market
H
•
Paza Jl. W
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uda Pasifika Museum
French
CD
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
Consulate
Jl. Srikandi
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
N
Jl. P
anta
i Pe
ming
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• Amphitheatre
W E
Jl.
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Sanur H The St. Regis
S
72 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 tan
Sela
Dua
H Raddin Hotel
Jl. N
usa
CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS
ACCOMMODATION during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3 / quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different
villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete, locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be
shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian, arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.
Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510 BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;
E-mail: info@dianagrouphotel.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
ACTION & ATTRACTION INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS

BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from
beauty of walking among hundreds of anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or
beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia, as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred
Ginger and other interesting plants. hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or
A peaceful, natural and safe haven residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for
close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 /
unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: info@newspaperdirect-bali.com
466-011; www.baliorchidgarden.com;
E-mail: info@baliorchidgarden.com TOURS & TRAVEL
ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE
BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo
both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive. & Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750
Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all 971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,
kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields, Email: info@adventureindonesia.com
crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views www.adventureindonesia.com

INFOINDEX
AIRLINES Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR:
E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur easily become infected in the tropics. Treat
Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 them immediately. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA:
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Email: dtkonsbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended.
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except
Ngurah Rai International Aiprort ■ HUNGARY: at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074,
Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. is safe. Protect yourself from the intense 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud
Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Email: cristofoli@denpasar.wasantara.net.id a hat.
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369 AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN:
■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud
■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran have multiple partners from around the world. Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
Tel: (0361) 757-292 Tel: (0361) 701-005 They are not checked for sexually transmitted
E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, ■ MUSEUM RUDANA:
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: available over the counter at pharmacies. Tel: (0361) 975-779,
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud.
Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 HOSPITAL
■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315,
■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Contact your consulate.
24-hour access: 08071-807-807 Tel: (0361) 223-266 TELECOM-
E-mail: yudhara@astinatravel.com ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: MUNICATIONS
■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Provides medical attention for emergencies and
Tel: (0361) 235-358 ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the Kuta- ■ CELLULAR SERVICES
Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 Sanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services
Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 E-mail: purwa@denpasar.wasantara.net.id Tel: (0361) 761-263. for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid
calling cards at lower cost than calling on your
■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: home card. Major Service Providers
Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and
Reservation Call center 08041234567 E-mail: mimpi@mimpi.com medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. banners with product variants and
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: ■ SLOVAKIA: Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. brand markings.
Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118
Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT ■ TELKOMSEL
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is
Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. reputed to have the widest national coverage
■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan area, minimizing connection and signal relay
■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) inconvenience.
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Fax: 975-726; E-mail: rabik@indo.net.id 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134
Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. center, complete facilities and a full list of Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar.
International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 TOURIST
Fax: 760-275 Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 Email: marketing@kasihibu.co.id INFORMATION
E-mail: segara1@denpasar.wasantara.net.id www.kasihibu.co.id
■ DEPARTURE ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM
Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. ■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: MUSEUMS INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC)
A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta A one-stop tourist information complex of
required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 ■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali,
Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million E-mail: swisscon@telkom.net East Denpasar. Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central
Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas Java, East Java, Jogjakarta.
holders of official tax registration (NPWP) ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361
numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Tel: (0361) 766-188
Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
CONSULATES HEALTH & ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011
MEDICAL 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm.
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM
Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta
Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 Tel: (0361) 756-175/76
E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. pm weekdays.
www.dfat.gov.au For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE:
eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar
■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar infections. A fever along with symptoms LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Tel: (0361) 222-387
80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday,
E-mail: tamarin@dps.centrin.net.id Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION
drinks under various brand names are widely OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja
■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 available and are known to replenish body ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Tel: (0362) 251-41
Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485
E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION
avoid fruits and spicy foods. ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar
■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.


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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF...

THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

teamtalk 09.09 contributors

We hope you enjoy your time and

adventures. And while you’re at it,

6 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

Managing Editor NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

Editorial Assistant NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI

Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Advertising & MarComm. Manager ANDI BEHANS

F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI

GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA

Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription

Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 7

September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112

PHOTO BY KATHY PETITE

CAPITALCORNER PAKERISAN AND PETANU

8 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112

COURTESY BILLABONG ASIA

a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ art exhibitions to special events.

A MADURA VILLAGE 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

10 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

Tejakula’s beaches. The area is approximately 1.3

PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel

Division Manager of the 381-

APARTMENT-STYLE room hotel. From his first role

12 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

IN THE HILLS, AT THE BAY

Kuta, (0361) 752-403

14 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

ON THE SOUTH END

while also providing the platform to show them to the

environmental and human-related factors such as ease of

16 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

GRILL IT, JAPANESE WAY

opened in early August and is managed by Wayan Suanda.

community and children of Bali. This first ever campaign in

Indonesia provides children in Bali with motorcycle helmets

18 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

20 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

Opposite page: a Beji,

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 21

22 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 23

Many relics are found not only in temples

A temple next to the Museum

24 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

26 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 27

honeymooners and matched with impressive decorations and

seaside escape. The recently renovated villas are

28 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 29

30 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

32 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 33

“TRULY” Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet