UNIVERSIDAD NACIONAL ABIERTA Y A DISTANCIA UNAD

LICENCIATURA EN
ESCUELA CIENCIAS DE LA EDUCACIN ECEDU

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Fabin lvarez

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Diana Liceth Martnez

June 24th 2015

El chocolate, la bebida divina que conquist Europa

Pese a los recelos iniciales, en el siglo XVII el
chocolate se convirti en la bebida de moda de la
alta sociedad europea or Ftima de la Fuente del
Moral. Universidad de Neu-Ulm (Alemania),
Historia NG n 124
CHOCOLATE,

THE

DIVINE

DRINK

THAT

CONQUERED EUROPE.
Despite initial misgivings, in the XVII century
chocolate

became

the

fashionable

drink

of

European high society or Ftima de la Fuente Del

Moral. University of Ulm (Germany), No. 124 NG
History.
El 3 de abril de 1502, Cristbal Coln sala, una vez ms, del puerto de Sevilla. Su idea
era encontrar un paso martimo que, desde Centroamrica, lo llevase, al fin, a Asia. Era
su cuarto viaje al Nuevo Mundo, y la ruta tuvo sus dificultades. Un da, en mitad de una
tormenta, el navegante y sus hombres se vieron obligados a desembarcar. Al parecer,
interceptaron entonces una embarcacin maya que llevaba como carga unas
almendras a las que Coln no concedi importancia. Sin saberlo, el Almirante haba
tenido el primer contacto con las semillas del rbol del cacao.
On April 3, 1502, Christopher Columbus departed, once again, from the port of Seville.
His idea was to find a sea passage to take him at last from Central America to Asia. It
was his fourth voyage to the New World, and the route had its difficulties. One day, in
the middle of a storm, the navigator and his men were forced to disembark. Apparently,
then they intercepted a Mayan vessel carrying as load some almonds which Columbus

gave no importance. Without knowing it, the admiral had the first contact with the seeds
of the cacao tree.
Ms de doscientos aos despus, Madrid consuma ms de cinco toneladas de
chocolate al ao. Segn las crnicas del momento, no haba calle en la capital en la
que no se vendiese. Esto puede ilustrar que un mal principio no siempre es
determinante, ya que el chocolate se obtiene de las almendras que Coln haba
desechado.
Over two hundred years later, Madrid consumed more than five tons of chocolate per
year. According to chronicles of the time, there was no street in the capital where it was
not sold. This may illustrate that a bad start is not always decisive, because chocolate is
derived from almonds that Columbus had discarded.
No sabemos cul fue el primer contacto entre los espaoles y el chocolate bebido que
consuman mayas y aztecas, para quienes este producto era muy importante. Los
mayas dejaron escritas las primeras referencias de la historia a su consumo en el
denominado Cdice de Madrid, conservado en el Museo de Amrica. Por su parte, los
aztecas pensaban que las semillas de las que obtenan el chocolate no eran sino la
materializacin de Quetzalcatl, dios de la sabidura
We do not know which the first contact between the Spaniards and the Chocolate was
due to it was consumed by Mayas and Aztecs, for whom this product was very
important. The Maya left written the first references of history consumption in the socalled Codex of Madrid, in the Museum of America. On the other hand, the Aztecs
believed that the seeds from which chocolate was obtained, was the materialization of
Quetzalcoatl, God of wisdom.

De Tenochtitln a Madrid

Tan importante era el cacao para los aztecas que utilizaban las almendras como
moneda. Pedro Mrtir de Anglera, cronista de Indias, deca al respecto: Usan
moneda, no de metal, sino de nuececillas de ciertos rboles, parecidas a la almendra.
Para entender mejor los intercambios realizados en el mundo azteca, los espaoles
elaboraron unas tablas de equivalencia. Gracias a ellas, sabemos que una liebre
pagada en cacao costaba lo mismo que los servicios de una prostituta.
From Tenochtitlan to Madrid.
So important was cocoa almonds for the Aztecs that they were used as currency. Peter
Mrtir from Angleria, Indians chronicler, said about it: "They use money, not of metal but
of nuts of certain trees, almond-like." To better understand the exchanges in the Aztec
world, the Spaniards drew up tables of equivalence. Thanks to them, we know that a
hare paid in cocoa cost the same as the services of a prostitute.

Al principio, los espaoles mostraron rechazo por el chocolate, ya que, segn el

cronista Gonzalo Fernndez de Oviedo, los labios quedaban como manchados de
sangre tras beberlo. Aparte de ello, su sabor amargo y picante no los acababa de
convencer. Girolamo Benzoni, en su Historia del mondo nuovo, lleg a manifestar que
el chocolate pareca ms bien una bebida para cerdos que para ser consumido por la
humanidad. Pese a todo, en el siglo XVI lleg a Espaa y fue presentado a Carlos V
por Hernn Corts. A partir de ese momento, su aceptacin ira en aumento, llegando a
alcanzar cotas muy altas.

At first, the Spaniards showed rejection for chocolate, because according to the
chronicler Gonzalo Fernandez de Oviedo, the lips looked like stained blood after
drinking it. Apart from that, its bitter and spicy flavor did not just convince them at all.
Girolamo Benzoni, in his History of a new world, said that chocolate looked more like a
drink for pigs and should not be consumed by humanity. Nevertheless, in the XVI

century it came to Spain and was presented to Charles V by Hernan Cortes. From that
moment, its acceptance increased by reaching great value .

El triunfo del chocolate

Segn diversos autores, fueron los monjes los encargados de difundir el consumo del
chocolate en los monasterios. Con el tiempo, seran los cistercienses quienes lograran
mayor fama como chocolateros. Pero no todos los religiosos se mostraron favorables a
su consumo. En este sentido, los jesuitas crean que el chocolate era contrario a los
preceptos de mortificacin y pobreza. Dado que la nutritiva bebida se tomaba tambin
en los perodos de ayuno, pronto se abri un debate entre los defensores y los
detractores de esa costumbre. Fue en el siglo XVII cuando se dio respuesta a la
cuestin. Vendra de la mano del cardenal Franois Marie Brancaccio, que acabara
manifestando: Liquidum non frangit jejunum, es decir, el lquido no infringe el
ayuno. La Iglesia aceptaba el consumo del chocolate bebido.

The triumph of chocolate

According to several authors, the monks were responsible for spreading the chocolate
consumption in monasteries. Over time, the Cistercians were the ones who became in
greater fame as chocolatiers. But not all religious were in favor of consumption. In this
sense, the Jesuits believed that chocolate was contrary to the precepts of mortification
and poverty. Since the nutritious beverage was also drunk during periods of fasting,
soon a debate between advocates and opponents of this practice was opened. It was in
the XVII century when an answer was given to the question. It came from the hand of
Cardinal Franois Marie Brancaccio, who eventually stated: "Liquidum non frangit
jejunum" which means the liquid does not infringe fasting." The Church accepted the
consumption of drinking chocolate.

Precisamente en el siglo XVII, servir un chocolate caliente como bebida lleg a formar
parte imprescindible del agasajo, ritual seguido en las meriendas que los nobles
ofrecan a sus visitas. Sola acompaarse de bizcochos y otros dulces para mojar. Si la
merienda se celebraba en invierno, lo normal era que se tomase al calor de los
braseros, sobre los estrados de las salas de estar, entre almohadones y tapices. Si el
chocolate protagonizaba una merienda veraniega, sola servirse junto a un bcaro de
nieve, un vaso de helado.

Precisely in the XVII century, serving a hot chocolate as a drink became an

indispensable part of the "entertainment" ritual followed in the snacks that the noble
offered to their guests. It used to be accompanied by cakes and other sweets for
dipping. If the snack was held in winter, it was normal to be taken under the heat of the
charcoals on the bar of the living rooms, between cushions and tapestries. If chocolate
was in a summer snack, it was usually served with a glass of ice.
Dado que el chocolate se consuma muy espeso, las manchas que produca al
derramarse eran muy molestas. Pero un da de 1640, a don Pedro lvarez de Toledo y
Leiva, virrey del Per y primer marqus de Mancera, se le ocurri una solucin. Invent
un recipiente que consista en una pequea bandeja con abrazadera central, en la que
quedaba sujeta la jcara, pequea vasija sin asa en cuyo interior se verta el chocolate.
En honor a su inventor, la bandeja sera bautizada como mancerina. Segn el nivel
social de quien serva la merienda, las mancerinas podan ser de plata, de porcelana o
de barro.
Due to chocolate was consumed very thick, the stains left when spilled were very
upsetting. But one day in 1640, Don Pedro Alvarez de Toledo and Leiva, viceroy of Peru
and first Marquis of Mancera, came up with a solution. He invented a container
consisting of a small tray with a center clamp, which was holding the gourd, small

vessel without a handle within which the chocolate was poured. In honor of its inventor,
the tray was named as Mancerina. According to the social level who served the meal,
the Mancerinas could be silver, porcelain or mud.

La moda llega a Versalles

El consumo de chocolate en Espaa conoci una amplia difusin a lo largo de todo el
siglo XVII y se anunciaba en las confiteras como la bebida que procede de las
Indias. El hbito de beber chocolate estaba tan extendido que incluso las damas de la
nobleza se lo hacan servir en mitad de los largos y aburridos sermones eclesisticos.
Los obispos, ofendidos, prohibieron esta forma de consumo.
Fashion comes to Versalles
Chocolate consumption in Spain was widely known throughout the XVII century and it
was listed in the confectioneries such as the drink that comes from the Indies." The
habit of drinking chocolate was so widespread that even the ladies of the nobility made
it served in the half of the long and boring church sermons. The bishops, offended,
banned this form of consumption.
Pronto, el resto de Europa, sobre todo Francia, adopt esa dulce tradicin. Una de las
responsables fue Ana de Austria, hija de Felipe III, quien export la costumbre de
merendar y desayunar chocolate tras su boda con Luis XIII. Mara Teresa de Austria,
hija de Felipe IV y esposa de Luis XIV, afianz esta prctica al tomar chocolate de
manera habitual en su nuevo pas.
Soon, the rest of Europe, especially France, adopted this sweet tradition. One of the
responsible for this was Anne of Austria, daughter of Philip III, who exported the habit of
snacking and breakfast chocolate after her marriage to Louis XIII. Maria Teresa of

Austria, daughter of Philip IV and wife of Louis XIV, established this practice to have
chocolate regularly in their new country.

Cuando los Borbones llegaron a Espaa se mostraron muy aficionados al chocolate.

Sobre todo, Felipe V y su hijo Carlos III, quienes solan desayunar con esta bebida. Fue
precisamente Carlos III, en su afn por crear una industria que sentase las bases del
desarrollo econmico del pas, quien permiti el intercambio exclusivo y en rgimen de
monopolio entre Madrid y la Real Capitana General de Venezuela. A travs del sistema
centralizado que caracteriz su reinado, el monarca cre una institucin encargada de
gestionar el comercio, la llamada Real Compaa Guipuzcoana de Caracas. El
producto llegaba a las mesas espaolas a travs de las tiendas de ultramarinos.
When the Bourbons arrived in Spain they were very fond of chocolate. Above all, Felipe
V and his son Charles III, who used to breakfast with this drink. It was precisely Carlos
III, in an effort to create an industry that sit the foundations for economic development of
the country, who allowed the exclusive monopoly between Madrid and the Real
Capitania General of Venezuela exchange. Through the centralized system that
characterized his reign, the monarch created an institution responsible for managing
trade, called Royal Company Guipuzcoana de Caracas. The product reached the
Spanish tables through grocery stores.

Fue tambin en el siglo XVIII cuando el chocolate irrumpi en la repostera. Juan de la

Mata lo utiliz como ingrediente para hacer dulces secos en algunas recetas de su libro
Arte de repostera. El mismo De la Mata fue precursor de la mousse de chocolate al
inventar lo que llam espuma de chocolate, algo muy parecido a la mousse.

It was also in the XVIII century when chocolate broke into the baking. Juan de la Mata
used it as an ingredient to make dry sweets in some recipes from her book Art pastries.

De la Mata was also a precursor to the chocolate mousse to invent what he called
chocolate foam, much like mousse.

Maestros chocolateros
La preparacin del producto que luego iba ser consumido era responsabilidad del
molendero. ste recorra el pas con una piedra curva sobre la espalda. Segua la
denominada tcnica del metate, que consista en moler, de rodillas, y sobre la
mencionada piedra, las semillas del cacao. Poco a poco, y con mucho esfuerzo, extraa
una masa lquida y uniforme, conocida como pasta de cacao. El jurista valenciano
Marcos Antonio Orellana habla de ello en este poema: Oh, divino chocolate / que
arrodillado te muelen / manos plegadas te baten / y ojos al cielo te beben!.
Chocolate makers
The preparation of the product that it was then consumed, was the responsibility of the
grinder. He traveled the country with a curved stone on the back. Following the
technique called the Metate, consisting of grinding, kneeling, and on the stone, the
cocoa beans. Slowly and painstakingly, he extracted a uniform liquid mass, known as
cocoa mass. The Valencian lawyer Marcos Antonio Orellana talk about it in this poem:
"Oh, divine chocolate / kneeling you are grinded / folded hands beat you/ and eyes to
sky drink you!

Todo cambi a partir del siglo XIX, cuando las tcnicas de la Revolucin Industrial
favorecieron an ms su consumo y abarataron su coste. Pronto, el t y el caf fueron
desplazando al chocolate, que empez a asociarse con juerguistas y trasnochadores.
Lejos quedaban los das en que se consideraba de carcter divino, como dej escrito
Valle-Incln: Cacao en lengua del Anahuac / es pan de dioses, o Cacahuac.

Everything changed since the XIX century, when the Industrial Revolution techniques
favored further cheapened consumption and cost. Soon, tea and coffee were moving to
chocolate, which became associated with revelers and night owls. Gone were the days
when it was considered divine character, as it was written by Valle- Incln: "Cocoa in
Anahuac language / it is the bread of Gods or Cacahuac".