E

E
R
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ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

N76 december - january 2015/16

Mendoza
Winery
Guide

The
Shipping
Puzzle
How to get
your wine
home
1

www.wine-republic.com

contents
News Republic
Fly Fishing in Mendoza.........................................
Wine by the glass.....................................................
Hold that liquor.........................................................
How green is Mendoza?
Emile Giraud checks out Mendozas
Green Market..........................................................

6
6
6

WishList
Try our selection.................................................... 12
The Shipping Puzzle
How to get your wine home............ ................... 14

Going Public
Madeline Blasberg does the rounds with
Mendozas public transport.................................. 20
Out & About
Dining out..................................................................
Winery Guide...........................................................
Bars...............................................................................

26
28
31

Maps & More

Useful information.................................................. 32
Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria............... 32
Map of Mendoza City Center.............................. 34

CREDITS
Issue December-January 2015-16 | ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
E-mail: mariana@wine-republic.com
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud.
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti. jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Emilie Giraud and Madeleine
Blasberg
Photos: Emilie Giraud and J ona Conti.
Illustrations: Donough OMalley,
www.pencilrobot.net
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Fly Fishing in Mendoza
In addition to coaxing Malbec from a bottle, Trout
& Wine Tours lives up to its name by enticing wild
trout from Mendozas rivers. The fly fishing season
starts now and full day excursions include guide,
equipment and transport to mountain creeks in
Valle de Uco and Uspallata. While the fish here
may lack the girth of the monster brown trout
found in Patagonia, the countless mountain rivers
are teeming with good angling opportunities
and it is a chance to escape into the Wild to hunt
rainbow and brown trout in their natural habitat.
Prices start at $150 US per person for a no frills day
fishing or you can also get an upgrade that includes
a riverside asado with wine. Price $260 US per
person. Contact ask@troutandwine.com. Tel. (0261)
4255613. Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266. www.
troutandwine.com.

Wine by the Glass

It might seem a cruel joke, but for a place
awash with wine, Mendoza has always lacked
a good selection of city center wine bars. This
is especially true since The Vines of Mendoza
Tasting Room moved south to Uco Valley las year
and options became very limited to try multiple
wines by the glass on a casual night out. Cantina
Wine Club seeks to buck that trend. Set in the
heart of Beer Street Aristides Villanueva, this
slick, cosmopolitan bar and restaurant offers an
excellent choice of wines, many of which can be
tried without having to buy a whole bottle.
6

Hold That Liquor

Now that gin & tonic is back in fashion (was it ever
out?) wed like to take the opportunity to plug a gin
made here in Mendoza. Principe d los Apostoles is
distilled at Sol de los Andes distillery and it is an
unusual but very tasty Argentine infusion of mate
tea, eucalyptus, peppermint and pink grapefruit
skin. It is a formula that works well as production
has grown exponentially from 4,000 bottles to
40,000 since it was first started in 2013 and it is
now exported to the very home of gin, the United
Kingdom. Available in all good wine stores and
bars. www.apostolesgin.com.

How Green is

Mendoza?
Emilie Giraud checks
out Mendozas
Green Market

T first sight, Mendoza seems to fit

the bill as a green conscious city. Its urban
planning includes the huge green lungs of
the 450-hectare Parque General San Martin,
one of the most spectacular and well cared
for municipal parks on the continent. The
citys dramatic setting in the foothills of the
Andes inspires awe and respect for nature and
the great outdoors. It is an oasis surrounded
by desert, and relies on a fragile system of
waterways and trees to generate humidity
and shade. Constant water shortages during
the summer months make it all too plain our
dependence on the precious liquid. Also the
province is the orchard of Argentina and its
biggest fruit producer, much of it organic. Add
to this the fact that it is geographically flat and
therefore perfect for the cycle lanes that are
now appearing around the city
Unfortunately the reality is somewhat
different and Mendozas green credentials are
somewhat thin on the ground. People waste
water and it is not treated as the precious
commodity it is.

Houses are poorly insulated and burn excess

energy on heating in the winter months. Solar
energy is non-existent in a province with
an abundance of sun-filled days and waste
bins are so rare people litter constantly. This
is particulary obvious in the outlying towns
where waste management involves loading
your car up with that weeks garbage and
driving to the outskirts of town and dumping
wherever you wish, normally in front of a
local tourist feature. Residents burn waste or
leaves constantly and habitually contaminate
the waterways.
On the road the car is king and only the bravest
eco-friendly activists will dare to cycle outside
the cycle lanes. And that is not to mention
the humble pedestrians who risk their lives
everyday crossing the road in a city without
one zebra crossing.
Thankfully the green agenda is slowly but
surely reaching the Andean Capital. A very
popular and recent environmental initiative
is the Mendoza Green Market. Started in
November 2013, this crazy idea by three crazy
women is now followed by many other crazy
people , as Jazmin, one of its creators puts it.
The Green Market happens in different city
locations and offers a great opportunity to go off
the traditional tourist circuit. It is an excellent
way to try local products and experience local
hosptality.
The most recent markets have been in Park
Raul Alfonsin, to the south of the city center,
near the borough of Godoy Cruz. There youll
find almost 50 colorful and flowery stands run
by small eco-friendly producers offerering a
great diversity of goods ranging from healthy
whole-flour pizzas to herbal salt. Veggie
burgers abound but also gluten-free desserts,
organic ice-cream, raw milk yogurt, artesanal
beers, organic or biodynamic wines and
honey. You will even find recycled bikes and
furniture.
All the small producers are from the region
and follow organic practices or at least add a
green touch to their goods.
9

People dont always buy, but what you notice

is that they are very attentive listeners, says
Jazmin, and its not rare to see small groups of
people getting the low down on how to make
humus or an impromptu class on recycling or
what exactly is biodynamic farming.
When you walk through the green market,
you come across scenes of old ladies eating
vegan sausage rolls and teenagers trying
organic home-made juices rather than coca
cola
The event also offers free activities like yoga,
chi kung and cookery classes. There is even
live music and local NGOs are invited to come
and push their message.
Some people dismiss it as a fashionable trend.
I have to say that I am ok with this kind of
fashion, adds Jazmin.
The Green Market is definitely a popular event
with an average of 30,000 people attending
over the weekend. Everything from hipsters,
families, gastronomic professionals, passerbys, cyclists, runners, hippies, skaters and
artists.
The Green Market is clearly becoming an
institution in Mendoza and it is not rare to spot
people carrying the flashy green reusable bags
or come across the next event advertised on
the citys billboards.
From twice a year, it is now held every six
weeks and should become a monthly event by
2016.
The green wave seems to have finally reached
Mendoza.

Mendoza Green Market. Check

their Facebook page Mendoza
Green Market for the next
happening.

10

11

WISHLIST
MORIRSE DE AMOR 2013 - Omar
Araujo - 1900 bottles -

Winelover Omar Araujo pulled out all the

stops for this 2013 blend of Malbec, Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon from Uco. Aged
18 months in oak, this concentrated fullbodied wine expresses aromas of red and
black fruits, with leather and tobacco
notes in the nose and sweet yet vibrant
tannins in the mouth. Contact Omar at :
comercial@morirsedeamor.com or + 54 9
261 6647725 - 310 pesos with delivery in
Mendoza and wine crock. 10 % discount
mentioning Wine Republic.

BIOLENTO 2014 - MAAL Wines 6444 bottles

MAAL wine is the project of Matias

and Alfredo, two Malbec fanatics from
Mendoza. Biolento is a fresh and juicy
Malbec sourced from a 95-year old
vineyard in the heart of Chacras de Coria.
Vinoteca Wine OClock Vinoteca Sol y Vino - 210 pesos

Bacan Reserva Sauvignon Blanc

2014 - Giuseppe Franceschini 3000 bottles
Italian winemaker Giuseppe
Franceschini proves Argentina is
capable of making great whites. The
grapes of this vibrant Sauvignon Blanc
were sourced in a 13-year old vineyard
in Vista Flores, Uco Valley and
fermentation was in oak barrel..
Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 350 pesos -

Lost in the Andes - Malbec Gran

Reserva 2011- 2000 bottles

Texan Mark Addington switched

hemispheres to realize his dream of
making wine. Lost in the Andes is a
blend of 85% Malbec with 15% Petit
Verdot from a an 80 year-old and a 100year old vineyard respevyively, located
in Lunlunta district, Maipu. Aged in
new, French oak barrels for 14 months,
the result is a robust and full bodiedwine with intense chocolate, plum and
strawberry aromas.
Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 170 pesos -

Bodega Garage - Laureano Gomez Malbec Reserva 2013 - 30 000 bottles

Don Laureano Gomez worked in Trapiche
and Salentein for over two decades until he
decided to make his own garage wine. The
Malbec from this 2013 Reserva is sourced
in San Carlos, and is fermented with
indigenous yeast and aged in French oak.
The wine reveals aromas of red fruit and
is fresh in the mouth, with a slightly sweet
finish. Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 170 pesos
12

13

The
Shipping

Puzzle

A dispatch from
Emilie Giraud on how to
dispatch your wine
F

or all the foreign Malbec fans out there,

coming to Mendoza is a little bit like going to
a gigantic candy store, trying delicious sweets
and being allowed to bring only the memory of
it all back home.
Whether you are the backpacking type or the
fancy suitcase wheeler, youll be wondering
the exact same thing - is there any way I can
squeeze this extra bottle into my bag and bring
it back at a decent price?
Foreign tourists make up 70% of winery visits
here, and the winery store is the only place
where the winery can sell their product at the
full retail price.
So you can imagine their sales staff have
thought over and over again of all the possible
ways they can get you to buy more. These days
wineries are much more focused on sales than
they were in the early days of wine tourism
when to sell a bottle at the end of a tour was like
a pleasant after -thought. However no matter
how much they now push to buy, they keep
hitting a giant wall called shipping. A box of
six to the US costs on average $200 US per box,
not including the wine. Such high costs puts a
14

spike in the spokes of all but the highest rollers.

Here I have tried to decipher for you the complex
world of getting wines home so you may avoid
the bitter after taste of frustration.

1. The Carry-On Solution

The Wine Crock
If you want to bring back 1 or 2 bottles and are
one of those lucky people who do not overpack
their luggage, the wine crock is the solution.
This bubble-wrap bottle holder should survive
even the most brutish airport bag handler. If
the bottle does break, at least your clothes will
be saved and you can always try to drink the
precious liquid with the traditional mate straw
youve just bought.
Wineries sell them to for 30 pesos and if handled
correctly you can re-use them.
You can also take advantage of the fact that
Argentina is one of the very few countries which
allows you to bring your wrapped bottled as hand
luggage on a domestic flight.

15

The 6 or 12-bottle Styrofoam box

If you are a determined Malbec fanatic and are
ready to carry on as much weight as it takes
to extend your wine collection, you might be
interested in buying styrofoam cases of 6 or
even 12.
Selling at about 120 pesos (6 bottles) and 240
pesos (12 bottles), the box is basically a block
of styrofoam with hollowed out cavities
for bottles. Taped up well, it is practically
impregnable.
Youll have to check the boxes in and maybe
pay extra-luggage fee. Count that a styrofoam
box of 6 bottles weighs on average 9kg and a
Styrofoam box with 12 bottles 18kg. It costs
around 100 USD of extra-weight (Lan, and
American Airlines) or 150 USD for an extrabag. Also all the airlines insist the box is shrink
wrapped before checking in.
Be careful though, many countries suffer
restrictions in terms of the amounts of bottles
you can bring back with you , and those norms
are changing all the time. You shouldnt have
much problem in the USA and the UK, but
if you live in Australia or Canada, youll be
allowed only two bottles..

The Duty-Free Shop Solution

Be careful, not so many wines are available
in the duty-free shops, especially not from
that little boutique winery you got a crush on.
Keep as a last-minute emergency option for
forgotten gifts.
Make sure they put your bottle in a sealed
plastic bag, especially if you have connecting
flights.

16

2 : The Shipping Solution

If you dont want to carry your wine with
you, some wineries, hotels and specialized
companies offer to ship your bottles for you.
Shipping is appealing but dont get too excited.
Peoples jaws drop when they see the prices
and its certainly not an option for every
budget.
To get an idea on prices, to ship 6 bottles of
wine to the US costs between 190 and 225 USD,
(duties paid) and to ship 12 bottles, between
240 and 300 USD. To Brasil : between 250 and
325 USD depending the region for 6 bottles,
and 310 and 420 USD for 12 bottles all duties
paid. To the UK and to Canada, around 105
USD, for 6 bottles and 150 for 12 bottles, duties
not paid. To Australia 120 USD for 6 bottles
and 180 USD for 12, duties not paid.
The duties can be very high, especially in
Canada and in Australia. In British Colombia,
Ontario and Quebec, the taxes are literally
prohibitive. The easiest state to ship to in
Canada is Alberta.
Many wineries and hotels work with
intermediary shipping agents, like TAKSA,
who offer to come and pick the wine at the
winery and take care of all the paper work.
They move bigger volumes and as such, can
negotiate better prices with the different
couriers.

Where there is a will, there is a way

Shipping to the USA to a private client is
actually forbidden if you are not a wine
importer. Yet the majority of Mendoza wine
tourists are doing exactly that.
What is going on?
Some couriers reach some places, and some
other couriers reach other places, depending
where they have brokers to receive the
package and specialist agreements ironed out
on a state by state basis.
These importers let them use their licence and
clear the wine for a very nice cheque.
Basically the price is calculated as TRANSPORT
+ GAS + 90 DOLARES (importers licence +
duties).

17

Why so high?
Clients and wineries do complain about such exorbant prices. Just why is carting a box home so
expensive ? It is a pandoras box of national and international regulations made more complex
by the fact that we are dealing with sinful alcohol that puts lawmakers and tax collectors in a
frenzy. The reasons can be summed up by the following points.

The Drunken Postman

The domestic postal service has a bad enough
reputation as it is without putting the whiff of
wine under their noses. They may celebrate
local wine in their postage stamps but try send
a bottle internationally and youll get wrapped
up in customs forms and bureaucratic lethargy.
End result, you wine box will never be seen
again
Greenbacks Only
The four big multinational courier companies
(UPS/TNT/FEDEX/UPS) price everything in
American dollars and it is the same everywhere
in the world. In other words, the cost has
nothing to do with the national cost of living or
transport, and you cant take advantage of the
blue dollar exchange rate. The air freight service
promises you get your wine within a week of
dispatching but aviation fuel is expensive and
the sector is not very competitive so the courier
companies margins are quite high.

The Law is an Ass

Believe it or not shipping to Brazil, a fellow
MERCOSUR member, costs nearly twice the price
than shipping to Europe. Individual countries
laws on alcoholic beverages are a quagmire of
over reactionary puritanical zeal that seem
somewhat outdated in the 21st Century.
Traditionally taxes on anything alcoholic are
quite high and the controls very strict.
In Australia, Canada and the Nordic European
States, the alcohol laws are somewhat drastic
for public health reasons. Canada, Norway and
Sweden have state controlled stores with very
strict rules. For example you cannot buy alcohol
at certain times and the taxes are very high for
the exact same reason.
In other countries like Brazil, the reasons are
protectionist and a policy of supporting the
growth of the national winemaking industry.
It also has a lot to do with bilateral economic
rivalrly - you dont let in my product, I dont let
in yours.

The Right Frequency

The frequency of flights is more important
than the distance. The prices are divided by
zone. The zone correspond more or less to the
distance, but more than anything else to the
frequency. For example, to
ship to Denmark for instance
Add to this the fact that many countries will only allow
is more expensive than to
registered importers to send wine home (notably the USA
Germany, because the flight
and Canada) and you have a hangover before you have
connections are way less
even drank the stuff.
regular there.

18

19

Going Public

Madeline Blasberg does the rounds with

Mendozas public transport.
Its easy to feel like Dorothy in the city of Mendoza, follow the ceramic tiled road and you can
hoof it to most every downtown destination. But eventually your shoes cut into the back of
your heal, you tire of weaving in and out of crowds like a salmon swimming upstream and you
long for a zippier way to get from A to B. Public transportation is rarely on the menu when
travelers adventure into foreign reaches of the world, but in Mendoza traveling like the locals
can be an adventure all of its own.

Option 1: Buses
Buses, known as micros (meek-rose), are
ubiquitous throughout Mendoza, and are the
preferred method of travel for the local masses.
Buses fares within downtown Mendoza are
ARS $4 and can be paid by purchasing a Red
Bus Card, available for purchase and refills at
select kiosks.
Argentine bus drivers have achieved the
highest distinction in defensive driving, they
turn millimeters of distance into traffic lanes,
they swerve through motorcyclists with
graceful dexterity, and careen to a halt at every
stop, just in time for you to catch your stomach
and step down onto solid ground.
This does however make for a turbulent ride.
Youll be tempted to take the first available
seat, but its best to do some strategic planning
before plopping down just anywhere. Have an
upcoming stop? Position yourself as close to
the rear exit as possible. The bus will fill with
commuters, their children and their parcel, all
of which turn the aisle into an obstacle course
on wheels. So if your agility level is not up

to snuff, Id recommend sitting near the back.

Depending on the time of day, buses can fill with
any number of commuters from a few stray
stragglers to India-esque, shoulder-to-shoulder
rush hour herds. A little jostling back and forth
against your neighbor is unavoidable, just smile in
a way that says, please forgive my elbow jabbing
into your left ribsIm sure that hurts, theyll
understand.
When youve reached your destination, signal the
driver to let you off at the next stop by hitting the
button next to the back door exit.
Travel Tip: Visit omnilineas.com.ar/mendoza/
colectivos/ and select your start and stop points to
find your bus options.

How to Read a Bus

Large number in the top middle indicates the
bus group.
Each bus group is identified both by this number and
by the color scheme painted across the bus
Words on the left and right side of this large number
indicate the primary service zones of the bus route
Number and name in the bottom left corner of the
front window indicates the specific route number of

that bus, and the destination

5
20

Smaller number immediately next to the buses sliding

front doors are internal bus ID numbers

21

Option 2: Trolleys
The trolles are the sloth-like cousins of the
micros, and run on electrical lines that crisscross
the city. Unlike buses, trolleys silently and
gently roll along their circuits never in
hurry to get to where theyre going, coming to
complete stops, and languidly continuing on.
Given the slower pace of the trolleys, senior
citizens are frequent passengers.
Signal the driver that you want off by pulling
the wire that runs along the side windows.
Fares for trolleys within downtown are ARS $4
and are paid with the same card-coin till as the
micros.
Travel Tip: Trolley Parque crawls along a
rectangular route that encompasses the micro
downtown area. Get off at Emilio Civit and
Bolgone Sur Mer to spend some time in San
Martin Park, or at 9 de Julio for some downtown
shopping, or along Aristides for a wide selection
of restaurants and bars.

Option 4: Metrotramva
This light rail train is the newest addition to
the streets of Mendoza, and runs a straight
shot, 12.5 km across Mendoza city and several
surrounding metropolitan suburbs, including
Godoy Cruz, Maipu, Las Heras and Lujn de
Cuyo.
Because the light rail shares the streets with
the four-wheeled traffic, traveling can be slow
going, frequently interrupted by stop lights and
the occasional driver who fearlessly swerves
in front of this oncoming train. Fares are the
standard ARS $4.
If you need to mix and match a couple buses,
or a trolley and the train for example, your Red
Bus card allows you to use 2 forms of public
transportation within 90 minutes of your first
ticket purchase, and charges only the first one.
Travelers can mix and match routes and pay
only one fare for two rides.
22

Option 3: Taxis
But if youre not in the mood to be jostled
around on a public bus, taxis allow for a more
comfortable ride at a surprisingly economical
price. A quick trip across downtown can cost
as little as U$D 5.00.
Taxi drivers rarely speak English, so language
skills are necessary. That being said, travelers
can sometimes get away with showing the
cabbie a written address. All cabs are equipped
with electric meters that tick away the minutes
and mileage. Check to make sure the meter
starts when the cab rolls away, and round up
to the nearest peso when you pay your fare.
Taxi drivers (Taxistas) rarely carry wads of
change, so do your best to pay in small bills.
Remises are private cars that serve as city taxis
and can also be hired out for extended periods
of time. They are marked with a yellow
number on the passenger side door and are
generally a cleaner, more secure option.

23

24

25

dining out
MENDOZA CITY
Grill Q

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill

Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and
gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty
Argentine classics such as locro - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for
the stunning desserts. The Hyatts
other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a
more gourmet evening menu and
the most exuberant lunch menu in
town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and
mezze style tapas, youll need to bring
your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious
pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts
of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M Executive Menu $280 with starter
buffet, main course, dessert buffet and
glass of wine.

El Mercadito
Grill Q

Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a

casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patronas warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $150/(including starter, main dish,
dessert+a glass of wine)

26

With an attractive fairy lit patio and

terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends,
El Mercadito has a cool vibe and
relaxed music making it a favorite.
Opened recently by three friends,
El Mercadito is offering something a
little bit different to Mendoza. With a
cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive
waiting staff, this is quickly becoming
a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to
eat or evening cocktails. Opening in
the morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads and
some Argentine classic meals. Chow
down to big healthy salads like the
Langoustine with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served
with chunky chips and homemade
BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make
sure to try out one of their yummy
strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,
Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.
Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:
Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La Marchigiana

As the first Italian restaurant in

Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing
here, maintaining original recipes
from over 60 years ago; we recommend
the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out
the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity
credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias
Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.
meal price: $170

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important

restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with
a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky
prawns. Along with a handful of
salmon dishes there are a host of
different foods on the menu including
classic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas
and lots of lighter options including big
salads, sharing platters and vegetarian
dishes. While lunch and dinner is still
its main game, the beautiful gardens
and restaurant are open for breakfast
from 8am offering unending treats
from their own French patisserie and
the late afternoon is perfect for sipping
your way through the extensive
cocktail list or take your pick from the
arm long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo
161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am
till late. Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos.
Anna Bistro

Josefina Rest

The trendy, cosmopolitan Josefina

Rest is an island of elegance on
hectic Aristides Street. The building
is a playful mix of the urbane and
the natural. The warmth of vintage
style drawings adorning the walls are
illuminated through large, handsome
street windows.
Such an abundance of natural light
makes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.
After work hours, youre welcome
to pop up for some gourmet tapas
accompanied with a rotating selection
of by-the-glass wine. At sunset, a
thoughtful combination of candle and
industrial light bulbs will put you in
the mood for a fine dinner. The food is
eclectic, seasonal, and very personal - a
fusion of Anas mum traditional recipes
and of her own international cooking
experience. Dont miss the delicious
ravioles stuffed with smoked salmon,
seasoned with butter and sage sauce
and cheese made by the sommelier
herself. www.josefinaresto.com.ar
Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza
5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruo - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling

Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Resort and its lovely restaurant
Terruo. This handsome eatery
boasts an elegant interior, excellent
service and a wine list that is sure
to please even the most finicky of
wine snobs. Their chef compiles a
tantalising menu that includes top
notch lomo steaks, a rotating range
of salads and a savory ginger/honey
chicken dish that is second to none.
If you like what you see and taste,
book a room in one of their seven
Renaissance-style villas. Dont forget
to call ahead for dinner reservations!
Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip. AR$ 220.
Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch,
everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun
- Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Club Tapiz

Finca Agostino

Elegance, history and the perfect

marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at the
restaurant of Finca Agostino winery.
Ancient vines with stems as thick
as tree trunks look in upon a light
filled, stylish interior with enough
space to dance a tango. The overall
vibe is polished and handsome. The
food is equally majestic - 5 courses of
well thought, imaginative dishes that
are paired exquisitely with all the
wineries wines - often explained and
described by the chef Sergio Guardia.
The menu is seasonal with much of
the ingredients freshly picked from
the propertys organic vegetable
garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkin
soup was the starter when I dined
there and the main course a choice
between prime beef or Mendoza kid
goat. If you have time make sure to
take a tour of the property which
includes an art gallery and replica
plaza of Plaza Espaa in Mendoza city.
Cookery classes are available where
you get to pick your own ingredients
and prepare and cook bread on an
open fire, empanadas, humitas and
asado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.
tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400
pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

La Marchigiana

Los Negritos

Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in

Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)
this restaurant stems from a story
of a family who came to live in here
one of the first weekend houses
constructed in the area. They named
their home los negritos a nickname of
their two young children. Many years
later, one of the negritos (Enrique)
decided to leave the bustle of the city,
moved to the mountains and opened a
restaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas.
The restaurant serves lunch and
dinner every weekend and on public
holidays and the cuisine is flavourful
and typically Argentine with stews
(such as Tomaticn and mondongo)
milanesas, humita and homemade
pasta - many of the recipes used are
old family recipes. The restaurant
has been recognized as part of the
gastronomical route and is noted for
its quality of cooking, architecture and
landscape.Avg: $135. Los Olmos ST,
Las Vegas, Potrerillos. (261)155697431.
bodegonlosnegritos@gmail.com. Fri to
Sun and holidays. From 12pm to 4 pm /
GPS: S 33013370 - W 69272293

Josefina Rest

Los Negritos

27

the winery guide

LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas de los Andes

Nieto Senetiner

Dante Robino

Located in a beautiful old winery in

Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888
and makes a great range of wines and
sparkling wines and offers horseback
riding in the vineyards and asado style
lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja
S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
nietosenetiner.com.ar

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Charming boutique operation with

nice history. A five minute walk from
Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.
(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte
Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
closdechacras.com.ar

Melipal

Luigi Bosca

Mendel

A beautifully designed winery with

clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
Owned by the Spanish experts in
sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make
fab sparkling wine under label Maria.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

The fine wine sister of Chandon

Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.
(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and
Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de Chacras

The Arizu dynasty are the royal

family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. Classical
architecture, ancient atmospheric
cellars and rich wines such as the Finca
Las Nobles range make for a fascinating
visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,
Mayor Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer

This Chilean-owned winery creates

the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or
261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.
com.ar

Kaiken

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses

a new venture by the prestigious
Chilean winery Montes. Big and
powerful wines, destined for fame.
TEL (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile
(0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155
509 453) Roque Saenz Pea 5516, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. Open from
Mon to Sat from 8 AM to 6:30 PM/SUN
and holidays from 9 AM to 1 PM. www.
kaikenwin es.com

Catena Zapata

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan

temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta Vista

Masterful mix of modern and

traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
28

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Via Cobos

American winemaker Paul Hobbs

was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Tapiz

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end

restaurant Terruo and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and
bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta
Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de Baquedano

Gleaming modern facility with

fascinating
aroma
room
and
restaurant with Andean view. (0261)
524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.belascomalbec.com

Piattelli

A lovely family owned winery

done in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch
on a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:
Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.
Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
piattellivineyards.com

Cruzat

A boutique traditional sparkling wine

producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Septima

Alpamanta

Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set

in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta Estate

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com

Norton

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261) 490
9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de
Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas Lynch

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Navarro Correas

The closest winery to Mendoza city,

easily accessible Navarro Correas is a
modern winery with great sparkling
wines and fun tasting options. (0261)
4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555,
Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

Caelum

Modern, medium size winery on the

main road to Chile just before the
mountains and has a nice family feel
to it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.
R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.
bodegacaelum.com.ar

REFERENCES
Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City
Art Gallery

Chandon

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del Plata

LOCATIONS REFERENCES
Lujn de Cuyo

San Martn

Maip

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

Ruca Malen

Excellent food, great guiding and

first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261) 5537164
- 2614540974. R.N.7, Km 1059,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in
the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Decero

Lagarde

La Madrid/Durigutti

Owner of the oldest white wine in

South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year
old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.
San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Casarena

A beautiful mix of old and new, this

winery mixes tradition and modernity
in an old style winery with a super
modern restaurant with splendid views
of the vineyarsd and mountains.
Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.
casarena.com.
Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de Vino

A modern winery in Agrelo, notable

not just for exceptional wines such
as the Malo Blend, but also the fact
its owner is the Godftaher of Techno,
Swiss musician Dieter Meier. The
winery restaurant Ojo de Agua, has
a delighful setting next to a vineyard
lake.
Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel
2615731688. hospitality@ojodevino.
com

Attractive, modern facility with

spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com
Tucked away in a restored winery
in Las Compuertas, you can taste
single vineyard and terroir blend
wines from both of these ambitious
projects from under one roof. Walkins welcome.
Roque Senz Pea 8450, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. (261) 562
9134/35.www.
durigutti.com
www.lamadridwines.
com

Vistalba

Tasting room where one entire wall

is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines.com

Achaval Ferrer
Modern boutique close to Mendoza
riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com

Dolium

A completely underground winery

with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km
30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

Maip
Trapiche

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of

old and new, traditional and industrial,
and has the old train tracks leading
up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.
Coquimbito, Maip. www.trapiche.
com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentinas most talented

winemakers
Alejandro
Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261
697 4213

Finca Agostino

Elegant and picturesque winery with

ancient vines and walled orchard.
Offer superb lunches and cookery
classes.
Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.
2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

Carmelo Patti

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Familia Cassone

A charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine
tinted ros amidst the pastoral
splendour of the owners expansive
garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)
424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar
29

the winery guide

Don Manuel Villafane

25

Modern winery in the wide open

vineyards of southern Maipu.
Intense,
complex
wines.
Art
exhibition all year long.
Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.
Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

Trivento

Located in the bucolic splendour of

southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful
deck set amidst the vineyards and
offers bicycle excursions within the
property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,
5517 Maip, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 4137156. www.trivento.com

Flichman

Steeped in history and tradition.

Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style
bodega, set in the leafy vineyards
of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.
Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip. www.
flichman.com

Familia Di Tommasso

Officially the second oldest winery in

Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi

A professional, far-sighted operation.

Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas

Making real vinos de autor, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP Cava

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.

(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros
2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.
bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

A family winery using organic and

biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the minimal
intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA
Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.
com.ar

Carinae

Small, charming, French-owned winery

offering personal tours and well-honed
wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive
trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899,
Cruz de Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus Alba

A fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481
3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maip. www.
tempusalba.com

Lopez

Popular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurant offers
gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view.
(0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez,
Maip. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

VALLE DE UCO
Andeluna

The old-world style tasting room looks

upon dramatic views of vineyards
against mountains. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

Atamisque

This Uco winery has some great white

wines, a unique stony roof and they
breed their own trout which is served
in the charming restaurant.(0261)
156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,
Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

Premium wines made from different

terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip - (261)
4813201/4668048

La Azul

Rutini / La Rural

One of the valleys oldest wineries. They

conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622)
451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio
Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

Well-stocked
museum
with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant oak

30

Simple, small production winery with not

so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.
Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.
bodegalaazul.com

Finca La Celia

Salentein

Designed like a temple to wine, this

ultra-concept winery includes a modern
art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in
the Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P
89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.
com

O. Fournier

Most architecturally innovative winery

with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La
Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.
com

Gimenez Riili

A brand new family run affair, part of

the exciting Vines of Mendoza project.
This is a modern winery in a stunning
setting.
0261-156317105/
0261153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyn.
www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega Masi

Fascinating Italian job in the heart of

Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com

Domaine Bousquet

Another French transplant to the

Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
this sizeable operation produces
high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
and Malbec and now has a popular
restaurant serving excellent tasting
menu lunches. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
www.domainebousquet.com
Tel
2615274048

The Vines of Mendoza

Best described as a cooperative of wine

lovers around the World who have
all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco
Valley and are making their own wine
in a central winery with experts such
as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to
this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will
never be the same again.
Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

Diamandes

Modern, imposing winery with

magnificent wines, part of prestigious
French group Clos de los Siete. Calle Silva
S/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva
Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred
to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to
San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out
because the clubs dont even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

MATIAS DOWN TOWN

Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is
enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.
Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting
in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San
Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendozas version is right
in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or
some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar

31

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at
least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most
wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.
Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The
most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount
as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES
Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.
NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is
wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own
toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going
before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.
HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),
tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped
off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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