Aperture affects depth of field, shutter speed affects motion blur and ISO speed

affects image noise.

If a properly focused photo comes out blurred, then you'll usually need to eithe
r increase the shutter speed, keep your hands steadier or use a camera tripod.
Exposure - the amount of light that reaches (gets recorded by) the image sensor.
Exposure is basically the AMOUNT OF LIGHT (controlled by the aperture) that is c
aptured over a SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME (controlled by the shutter speed)!!
Exposure is the process of recording light onto your digital sensor! Light recor
ded somewhere (digital sensor or film).
Long exposure - leaving the shutter open longer than normal, usually several sec
onds.
White Balance - determining the color temperature of the light in order to get a
ccurate color.
White Balance - improves color by adjusting the camera for the light source.
If you shoot in RAW, you can add white balance later in post.
If you shoot in JPEG, then the WB needs to be correct at the time of shooting.
When we colour correct white balance we either add blue or red, green is ignored
.
Focal Lenght (ina daljina) - distance from the center of the lens to image sensor,
reference for angle of view.
- [ext] tells us the angle of view - how much of the scene will be
captured - and the magnification - how large individual elements will be. The lo
nger the focal length, the narrower the angle of view and the higher the magnifi
cation. The shorter the focal length, the wider the angle of view and the lower
the magnification.
- larger focal lenght reduce the angle of view and increase magnifi
cation. More mm = more zoom.
Aperture - the diaphragm in the lens that determine the amount of light passing
through.
Aperture - diameter of the diaphragm opening controlling the amount of light rea
ching the sensor.
Aperture (how wide you open your eyes), or your F-stop, controls (along with the
shutter speed) how much light hits your sensor!!
A lenss aperture (fstop) is basically a hole that opens to let in more light and
closes to let in less light (similarly to the iris in eye)!! The larger the HOLE o
r aperture (fstop), the more light will hit your sensor, the smaller the HOLE or a
perture (fstop) the less light will hit your sensor. A HIGH aperture number (fst
op) = LESS light being recorded on your digital sensor (or film) while a LOW ape
rture number = MORE light being recorded on your digital sensor (or film).
Aperture (fstop) controls the depth of field in a photo.
A small aperture (a large f-stop or f-number, like f/22) is like squinting. A la
rge aperture (a small f-stop or f-number, like f/1.4) is like having bug eyes.
Max. aparture - the widest setting of the diaphragm that lets through the most l
ight to the image sensor.
F-stop - the diameter of the aperture, indicated by numbers or stops like f-8.
F-stop = focal lenght of the lens / aparture opening of the lens
Shutter speed or exposure time (how long you open your eyes) - the amount of tim
e a shutter stays open during exposure.

A fast shutter, like 1/1000th of a second, is blinking super fast. A slow shutte
r speed, like 2 seconds, is keeping your eyes open and then blinking. The thing
to remember is: your brain is recording everything when your eyes are open. So
if you or something youre looking at is moving, and your eyes are open a long tim
e (slow shutter), then your brain will record a blurry image.
Shutter speed represents the time that the shutter remains open while taking a p
hoto.
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the shutter is open.
Shutter speed is the length of time that your image sensor sees the scene youre att
empting to capture.
Less time shutter remains open = less light gets into camera.
More time shutter remains open = more light gets into camera.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds or fractions of seconds.
In most cases you will probably want to consider using SS of 1/60th of a seconds
or faster. If you use less than 1/60 and hand holding the camera you risk to ge
t a camera shake, and image wouldn t be sharp.
For SS slower than 1/60, consider using a tripod.
If you use 50 mm lens and want to avoid camera shake, use 1/50 or faster SS.
The faster the SS, the sharper a moving subject will be.
Core exposure mode:
- program (P) - the camera automatically chooses the Aperture and the Shutter Sp
eed for you, based on the amount of light that passes through the lens. This is
the mode you want to use for point and shoot moments, when you just need to quickl
y snap a picture. The camera will try to balance between aperture and shutter sp
eed, increasing and decreasing the two based on the intensity of light. If you p
oint the camera to a bright area, the aperture will automatically increase to a
bigger number, while keeping the shutter speed reasonably fast. Pointing the cam
era to a darker area will decrease the aperture to a lower number, in order to m
aintain a reasonably fast shutter speed. If there is not enough light, the lens
aperture will stay at the lowest number (maximum aperture), while the shutter sp
eed will keep on decreasing until it reaches proper exposure. I personally never
use this mode, since it does not give me much control over the exposure. I try
not to use this mode either, because there is a risk of getting an overexposed o
r underexposed image. Why? Because if the amount of ambient light is not suffici
ent and I set the shutter speed to a really high number, my exposure will be lim
ited to the aperture/speed of my lens.
- aparture priority (AV) or (A) - you manually set the lens aperture, while the
camera automatically picks the right shutter speed to properly expose the image.
You have full control over subject isolation and you can play with the depth of
field, because you can increase or decrease the lens aperture and let the camer
a do the math on measuring the right shutter speed. If there is too much light,
the camera will automatically increase the shutter speed, while if you are in a
low-light environment, the camera will decrease the shutter speed. There is almo
st no risk of having an overexposed or an underexposed image, because the shutte
r speed can go as low as 30 seconds and as fast as 1/4000-1/8000th of a second (
depending on the camera), which is more than sufficient for most lighting situat
ions. This is the mode that I use 95% of the time, because I have full control o
ver the depth of field and I know that the image will be properly exposed under
normal circumstances.
- shutter priority (S) or time value (Tv) - control emotions in shots. used for
sports. stream, waterfall. - In Shutter Priority mode, you manually set the cameras
shutter speed and the camera automatically picks the right aperture for you, ba
sed on the amount of light that passes through the lens. This mode is intended t
o be used when motion needs to be frozen or intentionally blurred. If there is t
oo much light, the camera will increase the lens aperture to a higher number, wh
ich decreases the amount of light that passes through the lens. If there is not
enough light, the camera will decrease the aperture to the lowest number, so tha

t more light passes through the lens. So in Shutter Priority mode, the shutter s
peed stays the same (what you set it to), while aperture automatically increases
and decreases, based on the amount of light. In addition, there is no control o
ver subject isolation, because you are letting the camera control the depth of f
ield.
I try not to use this mode either, because there is a risk of getting an overexp
osed or underexposed image. Why? Because if the amount of ambient light is not s
ufficient and I set the shutter speed to a really high number, my exposure will
be limited to the aperture/speed of my lens. For example, if the maximum apertur
e of my lens is f/4.0, the camera will not be able to use a lower aperture than
f/4.0 and will still shoot at the fast shutter speed that I manually set. The re
sult will be an underexposed image. At the same time, if I use a very slow shutt
er speed when there is plenty of light, the image will be overexposed and blown
out.
- manual (M) - full manual control of Aperture and Shutter Speed. In this mode,
you can manually set both the aperture and the shutter speed to any value you wa
nt the camera lets you fully take over the exposure controls. This mode is gener
ally used in situations, where the camera has a hard time figuring out the corre
ct exposure in extreme lighting situations. For example, if you are photographin
g a scene with a very bright area, the camera might incorrectly guess the exposu
re and either overexpose or underexpose the rest of the image. In those cases, y
ou can set your camera to manual mode, then evaluate the amount of light in dark
er and brighter areas and override the exposure with your own settings. I only u
se this mode in extreme situations, when shooting panoramas or when using on-cam
era or off-camera flashes.
- bulb (B) - for night
Drive mode - where you set single shot or continuous capture mode
Evalute metering - measures light intesity at several points and combines the re
sults for best exposure
Exposure compensation (korekcija ekspozicije) - manual overrinde of camera s aut
omatic exposure system.
- it s features on the camera that allows you to make your
pictures look lighter or darker with min fuss.
- overrinding the camera s auto exposure to make a picture
lighter or darker.
Exposure compensation scale:
moving to the right (+1, +2...) brightnes the scene
moving to the left (-1, -2...) darknes the scene
Exposure - example - You are photographing your sleeping cat who is snuggled on
the couch. There is not much light coming through the windows or additional ambi
ent light. To see well, you have medium-to-thick moonglasses on (such as ISO 600
). You need to have your eyes open pretty wide (large aperture, such as f/1.4).
However, you dont have great vision (you have a kit lens that only goes up to f/4
.5), so you need more light to see. Thus, you leave your eyes open longer (slow
shutter speed, such as 1/30th sec).
ISO (special glasses that help you see in the dark. ISO is like the opposite of
sunglasses. Lets call them MOONglasses!) - indicates the sensitivity to light; hi
gher numbers are more sensitive.
Your ISO settings allow you to take pictures in low light situations. It is basi
cally a measure of your digital sensors sensitivity to light. The higher the numb
er, the more sensitive to light your sensor becomes. Your digital sensor is wher
e your image is exposed (aka recorded). This should be a review from the other p

osts in this series. Exposure is light recorded on your digital camera sensor.
Digital noise increases with ISO. The lower the ISO the less noise you will see.
Noise level most likely will not become significant until your ISO reaches numb
ers of 800 or higher.
Use lower ISO for night with long exposure (slow SS) (3 sec)
ISO
The
ISO
ISO

speed - measurement of how sensitive is camera to light

hightest ISO number the more sensitive camera is to light
200 perfect for shooting outdoor on bright sunny day
800 - perfect for shooting inside under * conditions

Always shoot on lowest possible ISO to reduce digital noice!

The best use for high ISO are: when shooting in low light conditions; sports pho
tography with a high shutter speed; anywhere taht doesn t permit flash photograp
hy.
Metering pattern - tells the camera how to measure the lighting of a scene for b
est exposure.
Metering mode:
- matrix metering: its less reliable with backlighting or when there are areas th
at are very bright or dark.
Multi-Segment (matrix) metering mode takes reflectivity information from the ent
ire scene to try to achieve a balanced exposure for the entire scene. Meters are
all different, but many multi-segment meters read information from five differe
nt areas that cover the majority of the scene and then produce an average readin
g of the segments. Some multi-segment meters evaluate the five segments, but alt
er the average by giving information of the center of the scene more weightusuall
y 60% in the center and the remaining 40% for the other regions.
- Centre-weighted metering mode gives more emphasis to the middle of the frame a
nd less to the background. This is useful when its more important to get the expo
sure right for the main subject than the background.
Centre-weighted metering mode evaluates only the reflectivity information at the
center of the scene as framed through the lens.
- Spot metering takes a reading from a specific point. This is handy when there
are large areas of light or dark in the scene.
Spot metering allows the photographer to meter reflectivity from a very small po
rtion of the scene.
Histograms provide a graphical illustration of all the tones in your composition
.
Locking the focus - holding the shutter half way to "lock in" the focus in a spe
sific area.
Flash compensation - enables you to iverride your automatic flash system. Works
like exposure compensation. Moving the scale to the right adds more flash, movin
g to the left reduces flash out.
Single shot mode - is handy for landscape and simple snapshot. The camera takes
one picture each time you press the shutter button.
Continuous (burst) drive mode - is good for actions shots and natural light potr
aits. The camera fires a series of shots as you hold down the shutter button.

Self timer drive mode - is good for being part of group shots.
Image stabilization (IS) - help compensate for camera shake, often producinh sha
rper images than we could capture otherwise. Types: optical and sensor stabiliza
tion.
Auto red eye reduction mode - it s better to try and prevent red eye, use red ey
e correction or fix later on the PC than use this mode.
Aspect ratio - 16:9, 4:3 - common for compact cameras, 3:2 - typical for DSLRs.
Macro mode (flower icon) - shooting close subjects. For DSLRs, abillity to get c
lose depends on the lens. For handheld word, turn on image stabilization. Keep i
n mind that depth of field (DoF) is shallow, so focus carefully.
Depth of field is basically the amount of an image that is in focus!! An image w
ith a very deep depth of field would be an image where everything is in focus, w
hile an image with a very shallow depth of field would have a lot of fall off or B
LUR with only one segment of the image in focus. The depth of field is basically
the part of the image that is in focus in any given image.
DOF is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that app
ear sharp in the photo.
Depth of field increases greatly when combining smaller apertures with wider-ang
le zoom settings, so using the hyperfocal distance technique is particularly use
ful for landscape photography, especially when youre using a lens that has a buil
t-in distance scale.
Using an 18-55mm zoom lens, youll get a much greater depth of field at 18mm with
an aperture of f/22 than you will at 55mm using an aperture of f/5.6.
The closer you get to your subject, the shallower the depth of field.
Almost all professional photographers use the focus point selector rather than t
he focus and recompose method when shooting short depth-of-field.
Bigger F # = smaller opening = more DOF
Smaller F # = bigger opening = les DOF
Small aperture:
- increase DOF in close-up shots to ensure the whole scene is in focus,
- good for shooting landscape scenes,
- allow slower shutter speed for creative motion-blur effects, and stricking lig
ht tails at night.
Wide aperture:
- reduce DOF,
- isolate an object from a distracting background,
- wide aperture - more light onto sensor, the faster the shutter speed you can u
se to freeze action.
Hyperfocal distance (is just the closest point at which you can focus and still
keep the furthest edge of your background acceptably sharp) - good rule of thumb
is to focus a third of the way into the scene. Using an aperture of about f/11
or higher with a wide angle lens will maximize your depth of field.
Because most macro images are produced in low light and with a longer focal leng
th, the depth of field is often very shallow.
The hyperfocal distance is particularly useful in landscape photography, and wil
l help you make the most of your the depth of field
Hyperfocal distance depends on three factors:
1 Aperture - A wider depth of field means that you can focus closer and still ke
ep the background sharp. So the smaller the aperture you use, the closer the hyp
erfocal distance.
2 Focal length - The smaller the focal length meaning the wider the angle of vie

w the closer the hyperfocal distance.

3 Sensor size - A larger digital sensor will result in a closer hyperfocal dista
nce.
Hypofocal distance - everithing from half the hypofocal distance to infinity wil
l be in focus. Let s say that HFD is 10 meters from camera. Nearest limit of acc
assable sharpness in from (10/2=) 5 to infinity.
Increase depth of field:
- Narrow your aperture (larger f-number)
- Move farther from the subject
- Shorten focal length
Decrease depth of field:
- Widen your aperture (smaller f-number)
- Move closer to the subject
- Lengthen your focal length

Wide angle - the widest setting on your zoom lens, has wide field of view.
Face detect Digital zoom images are of lesser quality than those captured with optical zoom
only. Turn off!
Movie mode Resolution and image quality:
JPEG compressed format that is versatile but not as high quality as RAW.
RAW is already at maximum quality.
Pixel - smallest part of a graphic image.
Large resolution - better for printing.
! For image ready to go, shoot using JPEG!
! If you have time to process your image, shoot using RAW!
Telephoto lens - lens that has a high focal lenght. provides a narrow or closer
view of a scene.
Lens hood - protect the front of lens and redices the chance of flare that robs
your image of contrast when stray light enters the lens.
Expodisc - use for setting custom white balance when you are in a tricky lightin
g situation.
Protective filter should be multicoated to ensure the best light transmision pos
sible.
Focus Mode:
Single Servo Focus - it will only acquire focus once when you half-press the shu
tter button.
Autofocus will almost always perform best with action photos when using the AI s
ervo or continuous modes.
For portraits, the eye is the best focus point.
Underexposure - if you dont let in enough light, you wont see things very well bec
ause itll be too dark.

Overexposure - if you let in too much light, then itll be too bright and you cant
see a lot of the details.
The AF mode determines how a camera focuses, but the AF area dictates where the
camera focuses. Basic SLRs offer two options: either all points active or just a
single point active.
Nothing makes me happier when shooting portraits than a cloudy day. It makes th
e lighting even and soft because the clouds act like a giant reflector. Also, i
t cuts out some of the light from the sun so that I can overpower the ambient li
ght with my flash.
Putting a flash or the sun behind the subject is perfect for making the model po
p of the background.
Use windows as a giant softbox. To get the light even softer, you can hang a fr
osted plastic shower curtain over the window as a diffuser. Its PERFECT light fo
r those who dont have fancy flash gear!

---Aperture value = f broj/otvor blende

Shutter speed = brzina zatvaraca
Exposure = kombinacija dva gorepomenuta, tj. izlaganje senzora/filma izvoru svet
losti pod uslovima odredjenim na osnovu prva dva faktora, otvora blende i brzine
zatvaraca
Exposure compensation = +2/-2 ili koja god vrednost, korekcija ekspozicije koju
je odredio aparat