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Filmmaking is a medium defined by motion: not only the action that occurs within a frame, but also
movement of the camera itself. It's the ability to employ camera movement that separates new
videographers from the pros. In this course, production veteran and instructor Eduardo Angel
explains the importance of camera movement and the benefits of integrating it into your video
productions. The lessons are explained through a series of examples that compare static shots to
their dynamic counterparts, showing exactly how camera movement contributes to each scene,
whether it's increasing drama, following action, directing viewers' attention, revealing key details, or
simply transitioning between shots in a sequence.
Topics include:
Exploring the different types of camera motion
Panning and tilting
Zooming
Racking
Tracking on sliders vs. dollies
Stabilizing camera movement
Working with cranes, jibs, and mounts
Choosing the right camera for motion
It seems that he actually cares, and he's rushing to get there as fast as possible. And guess what,
he is walking at the same exact speed, on both takes, but our perception is completely different. Not
only are we increasing the production value of the piece, we're actually shifting the way the
audience reads the scene. This is the power of camera movement. In this course, we will see why
movement is such a powerful resource, for infusing drama, following action, directing the viewer's
attention, revealing key details in transitioning between shots in a sequence.
Let's get started.
technique can be used to bring the viewer into the scene, emphasize importance or significance of
the subject, reveal to details into the scene, or reveal the vertical size of an object.
We often see pan, and tilts being used together. Because the pan and tilt mimics the motion of
the human neck, we often use them to create or recreate a character's point of view, also called
POV, or establish a sense that the action on screen is being observed by others. When panning and
tilting, it is also important to consider the height of the camera when plotting our shots. As it will
determine the perspective from where the audience views our subject. A quick example, check this
out.
The camera's height is about the girl's eye level. When we tilt down or up, the results are drastically
different. When tilting up, it looks like someone is looking at her shoes and then her face. When
tilting down, it seems like someone is looking at the building and suddenly discovers there is a girl
waiting for someone. Panning a subject with a long lens, increases the perceived speed of
th emotion and can give the impression that the subject is being followed or watched.Panning, is
often considered as in camera editing.
Since we can go from subject A to subject B and back to A. Without interrupting the integrity of the
scene. By doing this, we can add a layer of realism, and give the impression that the situation is
happening in real time. Very quick pans can also be used as transition between scenes. And there's
something else to consider. The speed of the pan or tilt, can greatly influence the perceived effect
on the viewer. A slow pan or tilt forces the viewer to take in all the visual information of the scene as
it enters the frame.
A fast pan or tilt can disorient the viewer, and jolt their attention to a new point of focus. In order to
capture truly smooth movement it is essential to properly set up and counterbalance the tripod. We
need to fine tune the tension, so the tripod does the heavy lifting for us. If we have the luxury
blocking out our shots, we should practice the movement multiple times, before evenrolling the
camera, and adjust tension accordingly. Generally speaking, we want to set the tripod's head with
less tension for close or fast moving subjects, and increase the tension for slow movements.
Additional tension often helps if for any reason, we find it difficult to keep the shot steady.Sometimes
this happens with fully rigged cameras. More often than not, we want panning as well as tilting to be
steady and fluid, unless of course, the story calls for camera shake.
Zooms
In this section we will be discussing zooming in and out. Although a zoom is not technically acamera
movement as the camera itself does not move, by adjusting the lens focal length we can make
objects appear near or farther. With zoom lenses this is a very convenient method of integrating
camera movement without any set up. Zooming in can also be used effectively to imitate a point
of view shot of someone using a camera or a pair of binoculars. Because the human eye cannot
perform a zoom in, a viewer will often associate it with someone watching a scene from afar.
When we are zooming out, we can conceal details from the viewer until we are ready to reveal them
or de-emphasize the subject and put it into the context of his surroundings. In current mainstream
cinema, aside from perhaps Tarantino, we won't find zooms used that frequently.Unless used in a
stylized fashion, it is often viewed, as an outdated, heavy handed way of directing the viewer's
attention, to a particular aspect of the frame. We are more likely to find this technique, used in runand-go documentary work, in which the DP doesn't have the luxury of staging their shots.
They're simply trying to capture the most important action of the scene as it happens in real time, or
re-framing a scene using different focal lengths in order to pick the best shot later in post. Another
place to look for zooms is info documentary, or found footage films and TV shows that intentionally
draw attention to the amateurish camera work. Zooming during a shot can pose technical
challenges as well since the amount of light transmitted by the lens might change with the focal
length.
Depending on what lens we are using, this effect on exposure can drastically change our
shot.Notice how the image brightens overall when the camera zooms out and darkens when
zooming in. Interestingly, both of these images were shot at the same ISO and aperture. Another
technical consideration is that certain elements may shift in shape if working with a wide-angle
lens. While this is generally acceptable in documentary style film, it can be unpleasant and
distracting in a narrative film.
Let's look at this example. Here's the basic static shot of the girl waiting outside. But if we zoom in,
we bring the viewer right in front of the action. We actually see what's going on, and actually, behind
her we see what's going on inside the restaurant as well. If we zoom out, we can actually establish
a sense of isolation. She looks smaller. It's raining. It's wet. It's cold. Let's take a look at them all
side by side. If we have a little bit of shake, we can imitate like someone is watching the scene from
far or someone is standing there watching her.
Zooming in or out very quickly provides a sense of urgency and danger. The final shot might not be
perfectly framed, which can add a layer of realism. Instead of using a zoom to emphasize or deemphasize a subject, most directors today, will often opt to use a dolly instead. This involves a more
elaborated set up, that we will cover later on this course.
Racking
In this lesson, we will be discussing another camera move that is done with an adjustment of the
lens rather than the camera. Racking focus. Adjusting the focal length, is one of the easiest ways to
direct a viewer's attention, and force the viewer to take in the depth of a scene, in a certain
order. This can be used to track subjects as they approach the camera. Or reveal new levels of
depth in a scene. The order that you force the viewer to take in a scene, can greatly affect the
message.
Let's take a look at an example on how we can guide the viewer's eye, through the depth of the
scene. We start with the girl, perfectly sharp. The cameras focal point shifts from the girls face to his
face. The girl is now completely out of focus. The focal point of the frame is a mirror of the mans
priorities. The girl he is with, fades in relevance as he is distracted by his cellphone, when he's text
messaging. If we had opted to use a greater depth of field, everything would be sharp, and we
wouldn't be able to direct the viewer's attention as effectively.
How did this shift in focus affect the way we interpret the scene? Let's take a look at this same
scene with a slight, but critical, shift. With a greater depth of field, we're thrown into the psyche of
the girl, as opposed of the man. She's no longer an afterthought, but rather the camera's priority. As
a viewer, this scene now reads as curiosity, as opposed to neglect. Although, it may seem obvious
to rack focus to pay attention to whoever is speaking. Sometimes the reaction of the other character,
is more important than the delivery of the line.
Side-to-side motion
When tracking alongside the action of a scene, the movement can affect the scene in a variety of
ways. As their names suggest, one of their primary purposes is to track a subject as it makes its
way through the frame. In this way, a side-to-side tracking shot can function in a similar way to the
panning motion of a fluid head tripod. Here's a scene shot from a fixed position. The camera is not
moving and the subject is obviously moving across the frame. Now, this is the second take of the
same scene, but we are now panning.
We're following the dancer with the camera on sticks. And here's a third approach, which I believe is
more effective. We are tracking, we're following the dancer, so not only the camera is moving along
her side, but she's also moving across the frame. Now let's compare these two.There's nothing
wrong with the image on the left, but the right one is loaded with kinetic energy.And as viewers, we
are, we become part of the scene with, with the dancer in the camera moving.
A pan can be very effective in placing a subject within the context of a scene by revealing details
that are not present in a single frame. Tracking alongside the character, as opposed to
panning, immediately creates a sense of proximity and intimacy. As opposed to watching the
characters from a distance, like an observant stranger, it is as if we were walking with them. By
shifting the camera to the side, we can reveal details that existed within the frame, but were not
visible from a single fixed position.
Through this technique, we can surprise the viewer as we reveal new visual information that
perhaps changes the emotional charge of the scene. This motion also lends itself to transitions
between scenes when an object in the foreground obscures the camera view.
To successfully pull this move, it is best to have someone assist you. One person concentrates on
smoothly moving the camera and another one is in charge of making sure that everything is sharp.
to the light weight, and only two points of contact, every movement and vibration of your body will
completely jostle the frame.
To limit this, it is important to consider using a rig which will add weight and additional
support.Handheld camera work can often feel voyeuristic. >> No, I'm just saying like, we always like,
kid around, but like... >> Or create a sense of tension. Depending on the project, you may want to
enhance or decrease the handheld feel. When done correctly, intentional handheld shake can
infuse a sequence with a sense of urgency and tension. The movement of handheld
cinematography inherently provides a kinetic energy to our scene.
Think of battle sequences in war films. Frantic handheld camera work creates the feeling that we
are there, in the trenches, overwhelmed by the action around us. Let's take a look at a high
tension scene, where the handheld feel may actually be wanted. >> What the hell is this then,
huh? Why am I doing here? You are such a jerk. What the hell is this then, huh? Why am I doing
here? >> Camera shake is not distracting but actually enhances the drama of the scene. By adding
physical instability to the camera, we also add emotional instability to the scene.
Intentionally under-produced scenes convey authenticity or the sense that a scene is so hectic that
coordinated camera movement would be impossible. When shooting handheld we generally need to
use the widest lens available to visually conceal or diminish common shake. A second reason to
choose wider lenses over longer lenses is the minimum focusing distance. Generally speaking, an
effective shot is achieved by keeping a constant distance between the camera and the subject.
Handheld shots are used for a variety of reasons, the most common one being
subjectivity.Mimicking the movement of a person walking, for example, is better achieved with a
handheldshot if we want the viewer to feel he or she is walking alongside the character.
Glidecams and Steadicam are great stabilizers to chase action. Let's take a look at a scene, where
our main character is running late for a date. That doesn't really, have any sense of urgency
right? He didn't seem rushed at all. Now, let's try a Glidecam. It looks, and feels
different. Steadicam, Glidecams, and similar stabilizers can make the viewer race through the frame
with your subject. It's pretty interesting how static the image on the left looks now when compared to
the more kinetic scene on the right.
Rather than watching the character from a distance, the chasing action creates a sense of
proximity. Sometimes a character's performance is better served in a single take. Sometimes we
might want to increase the viewer's involvement in a particular scene by making them feel that they
are physically present. Sometimes we might want to float the camera to highlight the sense of place
or time. When set up properly, a Steadicam will eliminate any trace of camera shake. Steadicam
eliminate the shake created when we hand hold the camera and create the floating sensation that is
quite unnatural, therefore creating an almost surreal quality.
When choosing a stabilizing rig, the first consideration is weight. Most systems specify camera
weight limitations, but one needs to factor in lenses and other accessories. A second key
consideration, is an external monitor, which allows the camera operator to continuously check focus,
and framing, while using peripheral vision to avoid potential obstacles. Some rigs can accommodate
extensions, to accommodate the camera's length or height, while others do not offer this
option. Let's take a look at a situation that requires stabilization, but cannot accommodate a full
sized Steadicam or Glidecam.
In this scene, we see a man driving a car. He is running late, frustrated, and stuck in traffic.Notice
how much the camera is shaking without any stabilizer. We all know how small the interior of a car
can be. We also know how much a car moves and vibrates. So we need to stabilize the camera. We
opted to use a smaller two-hand system, the Comodo Orbit, along with a lens with built in
stabilization, so we could truly concentrate on framing and grabbing the subjects best expressions.
Another option, would be a hand held gyro. We're seeing new developments in gyros, with new
products becoming more quiet and able to handle all sorts of cameras and configurations.These
devices are allowing small crews to pull off shots that would have normally taken a much larger
team and budget.
Regardless of the terrain below, the motion of the Steadicam is always consistent. Because of this
consistency, a Steadicam works well for smooth, elegant motion. Think about a frenetic action
movie chase scene. A perfectly stable, smooth floating camera motion wouldn't fit with the mood of
the scene. Here's a handheld scene of a man in a rush. When shooting handheld, the weight of the
camera can make a big difference. But the best way to reduce shake is by using a stabilizer.
The stabilizer has a less kinetic feel, but it's smoother with less distortions. Look at the
difference. Sometimes, a high degree of stabilization can actually reduce the dramatic impact of a
scene. Here's another example of the same handheld versus stabilizer, but for another scene.Here,
she's very upset and we are following her hand-holding the camera. That is how shaky it is. And
now, she's still upset but we are following her with a stabilizer.
But now, you can compare the two, side by side. As always, which approach to use depends
specifically on the story and what kind of reaction would you like to get from the viewer and how
much drama do you want to add or remove from the scene. If properly integrated, a bit of
coordinated camera shake as opposed to digital warping and distortion, caused by unwanted shake
can enhance the tension and suspense of a cinematic moment.
this specific assignment, we needed to use the jeep to avoid setting up our tracks over wet
paint. They are incredibly versatile. And, for this reason, you will often see jibs used in live
television, as they can cover a wide area with a single camera from a wide variety of depths and
angles.
Car mounts
Another form of stabilization we can use in our video productions is mounting the cameras to
objects in a scene on or off camera. With a bit of creativity, we can make seemingly impossible
shots not only possible, but also affordable. By attaching a camera to a car, a wheelchair, a drone,
or any other moving object, we can achieve first person and, or unique point of views.Let's look at a
driving scene. Using standard hand held rakes and stabilizers, your options are really limited.
In this scene, we used a vacuum camera mount to properly attach the camera for a steady
shot.While it takes a little bit of time to set up the system, it's fairly simple and works on virtually any
smooth surface. It is possible to fake a car scene like this without ever moving the car, but achieving
realistic reflections in moving backgrounds would be much harder. While there are many do it
yourself options, I strongly recommend buying or renting a proper system that will keep your gear
safe.
By mounting the camera on the hood of the car, we're able to attain a unique perspective that
normal people with normal lives don't experience. This moves can also take us out of the ordinary
and expected point of view, to see the world from a different perspective. Let's take a look at an
example where we attach a camera to the wrist of a graffiti artist. By doing so, we're making the
viewer see the world from the perspective of the artist's hand. We are surrounded by objects that
can move easily and perhaps stabilize your camera.
Quick examples, wheelchairs, cars, office chairs, skateboards, you name it. Don't let a lack of
hardware or budget limit your creativity. As cameras continue to get smaller and smaller, the
possibilities are endless. Don't be afraid to break the rules and explore unique vantage points.
Choosing the right camera for motion (large sensor vs. small sensor)
Our choice of camera, and therefore a camera sensor, will determine many aspects of our visual
strategy. Being depth of field a key consideration. In a nutshell, the larger the sensor, theshallower
the depth of field, and visa versa. The smaller the sensor, the deeper the depth of field. As prices for
large sensor cameras keep coming down, it seems attractive to shoot with the largest sensor we
can get and achieve extremely shallow depth of field. But while this sounds great on paper, reality is
a bit different.
If we're shooting with a full-frame sensor, we still have the issue of focus. But technology is quickly
catching up and out of focus for a video, wireless follow focus and wireless monitoring are becoming
more affordable and accessible. Part of the beauty of the shallow depth of fieldthat we can get with
large sensor cameras, is that we can cause the viewer to look exactly where we want them to look,
by simply adjusting the focus accordingly. A sharp foreground causes the viewers to look at the
foreground without getting distracted with the background.
The opposite is true. A sharp background with a blurred foreground causes more attention to be
paid to the background. We can use this simple technique, to create a sense of mystery, and
intentionally obscure certain areas on our frame. We can also draw the viewer into the scene by
changing what goes from sharp to blurred. Adjusting focus can also be highly effective during
dialogue scenes. We can provide the viewer with cues to dictate what is, or might be important.