Verrier Elwin was an anthropologist whose work among the little known Indian

tribes has contributed much to the understanding of these peoples . he was

born in Dover in England and was educated at Cheltenham and subsequently
at Oxford. On his graduation from Oxford he was ordained as an Anglican priest.
His association with J. w Winslow a missionary influenced him greatly and he left
for India in 1927. He was fascinated by Indian Culture and slowly moved way
from the Church. He travelled widely throughout India and wrote extensively
about the different tribes , especially of the North Eastern region. In recognition
of his work, he was made adviser on tribal affairs of the government of India. He
was drawn towards Buddhism and when he died in 1936he was cremated in
Shillong according to Buddhist rites. Hi autobiography The tribal world of Verrier
Elwin, published posthumously in 1964 is a remarkable piece of wiring
characterized by keen observation and empathy for the people described. The
present section A PTT is an extract from this very book.
The essay is full of graphic descriptions of the natural beauty of NEFA and is
marked by a high degree of empathy for the inhabitants of this region , sharp
observation, an eye for detail and a boundless spirit for adventure and curiosity
are characteristics of Elwins essay and this may said to have been born out of
the authors deep sense of involvement with the people and the places that he
wrote about.
Elwins essay is deeply autobiographical , the description of the vivid imageries
the beautiful description of the dresses, the ornamental and attire and the
culture and lifestyle of the hill people and his keen sense of sight , all contribute
towards making the essay an experience of a journey in itself.
Here it would be apt to say that through the medium of the essay Elwin has
highlights the notions of nature beauty and religion to quite an extent. Being an
anthropologist he gives extraordinary description of the culture, their way of
living, their habits, customs, traditions etc. all in a very insightful manner. His
deep regard for Buddhism is evidently present in the piece when he talks about
the Buddhist monastery , the very description of it brings about a kind of
different aura in the context of the essay . The festival of Buddha purnima , then
sacred religious texts of the Buddhist , age old Shrines and books all have been
magnificently described by elwin.
Elwins begins his account of the journey with the description of the
geographical , religious nad political importance of Tawang. The importance of
the valley lay in the fact that it was the first place that the Dalai Lama had halted
when he has first travelled to India seeking political asylum. It is evident reverent
tone in which Elwin speaks of the Dalai Lama and of Tawang that his interest in
the region and its people is not mererly the objective interest of the
anthropologist . He has definite personal learning towards the culture and
religion of these people.
The 1st part of the essay mainly deals with the journey how it leads Elwin and all
his companions to Bombdila over the Se La pass. He gives us a vivid description
of the the sights and surroundings and the natural beauty of the sela and its

adjoining areas , he describes the hazardous journey with both the moments of
joy as well as bitterness. Elwin goes into rapture over the beauty of the place and
borrows the couplet inscribed on the walls IF this. To describe the beauty of
the place and its surroundings . Each and every aspect of the place , be it the
people, the customs the traditions etc, everything enchants him.
Fom Bombdila they travel to Dibang where they encounters the people of the
Monpa Commun ity , with a sharp eye for detail, elwin describes different aspects
of the Monpa life including a description of their small houses, weird customs of
the butter tea the kind and benevolent nature if the people, temples etc. while
describing them, he uses humour to quite an extent.
The arduousness of the journey is forgotten in the splendour of the scenery . The
journey culminates in the Budddhist monastery on the day of the Buddha
purnima at a monastery in Tawang. His fascination of Buddhism is evident here.
He does not speak of it a s a mere journey but as a pilgrimage. He explicitly
states that it meant much more to him than an ordinary travel journey
Throughout the essay what is evident is the empathy of the traveller with the
landscape and the mindscape of the people. the mini travelogue id full if
fascinating details of the land and its people and the living is simple and straight
forward. The attitude of Elwin I s of of condescension but of involvement.
The essay Pilgrimage tO tawang is not a mere travelogue, the essay not only
speaks about the people but gives us a deep insight into the beliefs of the author
as well, how the magnifies monastery soothed his soul, the vivid scenes of the
temple, all these had a much more effect on him than the sights and instance he
had observed during the course of t= hid journey. The style of the essay is lucid
and the language very simple and effective, there is no ornamentation in
describing the customs and traditions of the communities. The essay presents
before us not only the geographical dimensions of Tawang but the religion of
Buddhism as well which brought about a definite change into him. Being more of
an anthologist, his area of concern is not only to describe the beauty of nature,
but to evaluate the factual and critical aspects of the society and customs of
Twang as well. He calls his journey more of as a pilgrimage solely for the fact that
the journey not only gave him happiness and pleasure but provided him a sense
of inner peace and tranquillity as well, and perhaps helped him get more inclined
towards Buddhism.