Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
COSMETICS
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B.M. MITIIAL
N.N. SAI{A
M.Pharm., Ph.D.
Professor of Pharmacy
and Group Leader (Head)
Birla
Institute
of Technolory
PII"ANI, India
and Science,
Preface
rs B N 8r - 8573r - 2 2 -5
VPBN 48
First Edition
Reprint
Reprint
Reprint
Reprint
2000
2003
2004
2005
2006
Publishedby
M K Jain for VALLABH PRAKASHAN
AP-53A,Pitampura,DELHI-110088
Phone:.27317755
e-mail : vallabh@vsnl.com
Pilani
13 April 2000
B.M. Mithal
R.N. Saha
Printed at
Nerv Gyan Offset Printers, Delhi
(iii)
Contents
Preface
lll
1. Cosmetics-An
Introduction
1
I
2. The Skin
1l
2l
4. Skin Colorants
39
5. Skin Creafns
6l
6. SunscreenPreparations
90
7. Hair
105
8. Hair CleansingPreparations
110
9. Hair Tonics
r22
r28
I4l
152
161
r69
15. Nail
118
r82
r93
199
203
20. Mouthwashes
216
APPENDIX-I
225
231
APPENDTX-III: Bibliography
239
239
SUBJECT INDEX
255
(v)
CHAPTER-1
An Introduction
The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek wotd 'kosmeticos' which
means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or
improvement of appearanceis known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn
one's own body and look beautiful has been an urge in the human race
since the firibal days. Earlier both males and females were equal
competitors for improvement of appearance. Males decorated themselves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while women did so
by wearing any coloured stones or, flowers round their neck and the
wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and
bodies and still later coloured ointrnents. Bangles and necklacesmade
of baked earth also becamecommon in the early civilization as well as
shells of various kinds obtained from nature. In digging up ancient
Egyptian tombs much light has fallen on the ancient practicesof beautification. Pharaohian tombs have revealed that coloured earths were like
malachite green. The copper ore was used as eye shadows. Lamp black
was commo,n too for eyes. For dyeing of hairs red was also practised.
The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed with materials like myrrh
to head so that when they danced the perfumed ointment would flow
down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. 'I'he history also
records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her face
and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile
Caesar and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare
has summarized it by this line, "Had Cleopatra's nose been lgnger, the
shape of the world would have been different." The women of the world
feel inspired when they have a mental feeling that they are looking good'
Hence, the practice of adornment or improvement of appearancecontinued unabated across the centuries. Various kinds of natural materials
were used for the purpose. The practice of use of cosmetics must have
grown to an appreciable extent becausethe British Parliament enacted a
Law in 1770, which still stands unrepealedand is as follows;
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
Cosmeticsfor
Cosmetics for
Cosmetics for
Cosmetics for
Skin
Hair
Nails
Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.)
Ch.I
AN INTRODUCTION
Skin
Powders
compacts
Hair
Nall
Creams
Lotions Colourants
tl
I'
Lipsticks
I
Lacquers
Rouges
'
Skinlotions
Laquer
Astringent
removers
lotions
Vanisfingcreams
Nail
Cold creams
polishes
All purpose
creams
Cuticle
Face powders
removers
and compacts,
Body powders,
Prickly heat
powoers,
Face pack
Hail remover
Depilatories
Epilatories
Shavingprep.
Hairwaveprep
Hairdressing
Hairconditioner
Shampoos
Eye lashprep
Dyes
Mascaras
Hairlotions
Eyebrowpencils
Dandrufflotions
Kohls
6 HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
Ch.l
AN INTRODUCTION
A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
Ch.I
AN INTRODUCTION
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(10)
Cold creams
Cleansing creams
Cleansing milks
Cleansing lotions
Vanishing creams
Foundation creams
Emollient creams
Skin conditioning creams
AII purpose creams
Moisturizing creams
Hair Preparations
Hair preparationsmay be functionally categorizedinto:
(l) Preparations
for dressingand settingofhair
(2) Preparationsfor cleansing
(3) Tonics
(4) Preparationsfor hair removal
(5) Preparations
for colouring
(6) Preparationsfor applicationto areaslike eyebrows,eyelids,
either for colouringor upkeep.
The hair dressingincludesbrilliantinesas helps in combingof hair,
hair wave products,hair settingand fixing prodiicts. The most important
hair dressingusedin India is the hair oil basedon vegetableor mineral
oils occasionallyclaiming to contain herbals. Brilliantinesare wrxy
having preparationsconsistencyof vaselines. Hair creamswhich are
emulsionsare more commondressingsin the westernworld.
Curly hair probablylooks more attractirlethan straight. Earlier hair
waving lvas achieved by hot iron or boiling in water. These gave
permanentcurls. Then waving was done by chemicalcomponentslike
ammoniumhydroxidewith borax.
Many thiol compoundshave also been suggestedfor waving hair.
Reducingagentsare also said to be helpful. Thesedays cold waving
methodsare more commonlike pin perms,rollers etc. Somereducing
lotions may also be used.
'
Shampooswhich are meant for cleansing of hair and scalp are
becomingvery popularin place of soapsused earlier for the purpose.
With the advent of syntheticdetergents,particularly the non-ionic type,
therehas beena boom in shampoos.Most shampoosare clear liquids.
But now creamand solid shampoosare also available.
Hair Tonics aresuspiciousproductsin the eyesof public,scientific
as well as non-scientific,becauseof the word 'tonics'. The preparations
underthis group includesomeperfumesfor applicationto hair as sprays,
someglosseningagents,preparations
for dandruff,seborrhoea,
baldness
etc. Many productsare advertisedas growth promotersbut such claims
are suspiciouslylookedupon.
A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
Ch;I AN INTRODUCTION
Hair Removers consist of depils and epils which remove the unwanted hair by dissolution of hair shafts or help it in pulling out.
Shaving creams which assist in hair removal by blades/ra"o., by softening the hair shaft of faces in males may also be distantly classified
in
this group.
Nail White products are used for giving white edges. They are
marketed as pastes or creams containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide,
kaolin, colloidal silica etc.
Cuticle Removers are used for beautifiing nails and are available
in market. The shedding of outer dead cells by skin gives some grooves
around nails which detract the nail beauty. These are removable by use
of alkaline solutions in water by small plugs of cotton, Potassium
hydroxide is best for this purpose.
Hair Dyes have become very common. Somehow grey hair has
been associatedwith old age. Nobody likes the black hair to turn grey
on his or her head and many people continuously use hair dyes for
\-_
The tooth pastes and powders are similar in composition except that
tooth paste is made pasty by addition of suitable additives. They
basically contain:
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
.lt
Abrasives
Fillers
Antiseptic compounds
Surface active agents/soaps
l0
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
Glycerine, hydrocolloids
Flavouring agents
Taste imparters
Colours
The denfifrices are solid cakes and for application to teeth they rnay
be taken on tooth brushes in a moist state.
CHAPTER-2
The Skin
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t2
Ha ir
shaft
l3
.,u,nn
epidermis
Dermal
vasculature
Eccrinegland
duct
of epidermis
Fig.2-2 Magnification
Sebaceous
srarru
Arrectores
Dermal
vasculature
pilorum
muscle
Living
epidermis
Subcutaneous
fatty tissue
SLrbcutaneous
vasulature
ofthe skin
Fig. 2-l Schematiccross-section
Cells which provide epithelial tissue differ from those of all other organs
in that as they ascend from the proliferative layer of basal cells they
change in an ordered fashion from metabolically active and dividing
cells to dense, dead, keratinized protein' Downward, the epidermis
comprises of five distinct and separatelayers:
(l) The horny tayer (Stratum corneum) : At the final stage of
differentiation, epidermal cells construct the most superficial layer of the
epidennis, the stratum corneum. Human beings owe their ability to
survive in a non-aqueousenvironment to the almost impermeablenature
of this refractory horny layer. on the general body areasthe membtane
provides about 10-15 layers of much flattened, keratinized de_ad-cells,
ttu"king them in highly organised units of vertical columns. The horny
laye. may be only l0 pm thick when dry, but swells in water to several
times this thickness. However, at friction surfaces of the body like
palms and soles the thickness may be as high as seyeral hundred
micrometres. When dry it is a very dense tissue' about i '5 gmlcrn3'
A HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
14
Abdornen
Flexorforearrn
'I'high
Biri;k
Thickness of S C. (pm)
A[ean
Runge
lu[ean
8 .2
t2 9
t{ ).9
9 .4
5.9-98
8.tr- 16.2
7.7-t5 .3
8 .2 -r1 .3
18.0
21.6
19.3
15.8
Ilange
15.0-20.9
r 6.7-30.0
143-22.7
I 4.0-21l
15
16
OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
ch-2 THESKIN
17
gland
Each hair follicle is associatedwith one or more sebaceous
which are referred as the acid mantle of the skin. ln some selected
region of the skin theseexist in the absenceof the hair follicle. Their
size varies from regionto region (200 to 2000 pm) and is highestin
nose. It secretesoily material,sebum,which lubricatesthe skin and
stratumcorneuinand also maintainsthe pH of the skin at 5'
(l) Eccrine sweatglands : Eccrineglandsor salty sweatglandsare
distributedover the surfaceof the body. They consistof simple,coiled
tube as shown in Fig.2.l and have a density from 100 to
200 glandsper cm2 of the body surfacedependingon the body region.
The secretionis dilute aqueoussolutionof salt and someother minor
componentsand it has a pH of about 5. The principalfunctionof the
gland is heatcontrol" It secretesdilute aqueoussolutionof salt and due
to this it regulatesthe body temperature.
(2) Apocrine glands : Apocrine glands are presentonly in the
selectedregion of the body viz. axillae (armpits),in anogenitalregion
and aroundthe nipples. They are ten times largerthan eccrineglands
containingprotein,lipoprotein,lipids and
a milky substance
and secretes
diverseproteins. The secretionis mainly stimulateddue to emotional
stressand sexualstimulation.
glands are responsiblefor the
(3) Sebaceousglands : Sebaceous
secretionof sebum,which constitutesthe majority of the fatty layer
glandsare found in various
coveringthe skin and hair. The sebaceous
partr ofthe body like face,shoulders,upperchestand scalp,but are not
found on the palmsand soles. They are available500-1000per square
centimetre.
(4) Hair : The hair shaft is basically the product of synthesized
proteinfollowing cell division at the root of hair follicle. The number
of hair per unit area varies at different parts of the body. The rate of
growthalsovariesfrom siteto siteand variesbetween0.2 to 0'4 mm per
day.
Common Disordersof the Skin
As we mentionedearlierthat cosmeticsare basicallyfor beautification and masking,preventionor overcomingcommon disorders,it is
to havea knowledgeof commondisordersof the skin. Design
npcessary
and applicationof any skin cosmeticswill be guidedby the natureand
siteof disorders.Commondisordersof skin can be classifiedas follows:
l8
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
19
tion, reducing the sensitivity of the immune system causing further skin
damage and infection, change in colour, lower melanin level makes it
more sensitive to sun exposure,dry and scaly skin due to less secretion,
cold skin due to low blood supply, decreasein elasticity of the skin and
occurrenceof wrinkles.
Skin : Its Nutrition and Care
To ensure the maintenanceof normal condition of skin various steps
practices
should be adopted. They include cleansing, freshening or
or
toning, moisturising, nourishing and protecting the skin. For aging skin
further care is required for overcoming the changesthat have occurred or
for masking the skin characters"
Advent of more and more knowledge about skin physiology and
biochemistry has given the cosmetic manufactuiers more avenues for
better skin care. Several creams are available for specific functions,
overcoming specific disorder of skin in special cases.
Nutrients of skin Various substancesare essentialfor maintenance
of normal condition and function of skin. Some of these are systemically supplied and others are synthesizedby various mechanisms in the
skin from raw materials. These include:
(1) Proteins : Proteins are major componentssynthesizedin epidermis and hair follicle from amino acids. The amino acids are supplied by
the blood by the breakdown of the dietary proteins at the digestive
systgms.
(2) Lipids : Lipid is another important substancesynthesizedin the
skin by the sebaceousglands in the epidermis. Sebum is lipid secreted
from the sebaceousglands and is made from mainly fatty acids' Lipids
produced at the epidermis have a role in barrier function and structural
integrity of the stratum corneum, and are made from acetate, amino
acids, long chain fatty acids and carbohydrates.
(3) Melanin : Melanin is synthesized from the amino acid tyrosin
and is responsible for pigmentation at the skin.
(4) Energy supply substances : The synthesis of proteins, lipids
and melanin requires the supply of energy at the skin cells and is made
available by energy processeslike oxidative phosphorylation of glucose
or other monosaccharides.
(5) Water : This is most important for normal function of the skin
and movement of other nourishing substancesand metabolites.
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
20
(6) Others : Apart from the above substatpes various other substances like protein hormones, steroid hormones, corticosteroids and
vitamins are also essential for normal maintenance of the skin.
The above substancesare required to be supplied as skin preparations
if they are not available through normal systemic process.
Supply of these nourishing substancesrequires penetration through
skin to reach the proper site. It is very important for the designer to
ensure the cutaneouspermeation ofany such substances.The percutaneous permeation of amy chemical entity will depend on various factors
like:
(a) Physico-chemical properties and concentration of the
permeant
(b) Composition and characteristicsof the vehicle
(c) Condition of the skin
For poorly penetrable substances,some additive can be incorporated
to enhance the penetration of the permeants. 'These are called 'Penetration Enhancers'. Various substancesare used as penetration enhancers
like dimethyl formamide (DMF), dimethyl sulphoxide (DMSO), ozone,
alcohols and surfactants. Their funtions are attributed to their role to
temporarily change the barrier systems of the skin by various mechanisms.
Skin care preparations Various products are available and marketed for the care of skin. They are used for beautifrcation, skin care,
masking or repairing of skin defects, etc.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
CHAPTER-3
"fl.T:fl:::::#'T:ffi:i:'*1
powdersusedfor specificpurposes'
skin care preparationsin
Fundamentallypowders diffpr from liquid
theirphysicalcharacteristicsandtheirmostimportantcosmeticpropertiesaredeterminedexactlybythesecharacteristics.Veryfineparticle
p"' unit weight which covers a large
size produceslarge t"tfu""
-"u
light dispersion'
,urf*" areaof the body and resulis in strong
characteristics:
The powdersshouldhavethe following
power and so hide skin
covering
(l) The powdermust have good
blemishes.
to the skin and not blow off easily'
'12; t, must adhereperfectly
a few minutes to avoid
(3) It must not be completely dissipatedin
re-Powdering.
preferably of a matt or
(a) The finish given to the skin must be
Peach-likecharacter'
eliminated'
(5) Shine on or aroundthe nosemust be completely
(6) 'the Powdermust be absorbent'
slip to enablethe powder to spreadon
1Zi fn"r" must be sufficient
a blotchy effect'
the skin by the puff withoui producing
be such that a clown-like
(8) The constituentsof the powder must
be rather towards
effect is impo'siUte' The preferenceshould
one of transParency'
Preparations
Raw Materials for Powdersand Allied
of powders is the
The primary considerationin the manufacture
2l
22
A HANDBooKoF
coSMETIcS
23
24
A HANDBooKoF cosMETrcs
Magnesium and calcium salts of myristic acid are also used for their
adhesion properties. Magnesium myristate has better adhesion character
and a better texture.
Cosmetic quality talc, which is a purified hydrated nragnesium silicate has adhesion properties. Though it is available in various corrntries,
Italian product is the best and used for both face powders and body
powders.
The adhesion character of the powders can be increasedby incorporating l-2%o cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate,
petrolatum, lanolin or similar fats.
25
are colloidal kaolin, starch, bentonite, precipitated chalk (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate'
colloidal kaolin is a fine, soft, white powder. It has a good absorbent capacity for aqueous and fatty substancesand good covering power
also. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and inert. It has less slip
property.
Bentonite is mainly aluminium silicate and fine grey whitish powder.
It has extraordinary swelling power and can swell upto 12 times of its
own volume. Its use in cosmetics is comparatively less'
aluminiurn,hronz*.
(7) Colourimg substances : These are substancesmainly used ill
Various
face powders and cornpastsbut not in dusting or baby powders'
used.
are
inorganic and organic pigments and certified organic lakes
26
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Various synthetic or natural inorganic pigments used are iron oxides for
yellows, reds, and brov,,nsand ultramarine for green and blue. ;Toxic
lead and arsenic compounds are not used.
Organic lakes and pigments produce better brilliance but should be
selected from certified dyes.
The organic'pigments must not bleed in oil or water and should be
light-fast. phoice of colour is mainly users' taste. Various colours with
various shadesare used to fulfil the satisfaction ofthe users. The colour
of the thin film of the pigment may be different from the colour effect
given by the powder viewed in bulk.
(8) Perfumes : rrPerfume is an essential component of powders.
Users put more importance to perfume. But it should not be over
emphasized at the time of manufacturing. Normally the products are
perfumed lightly, particularly face powders and compacts. The odour
must be fragrant and pleasant.I Various perfumes or fragrance which are
used, either flowery fragrance or synthetic odour. Selection of proper
fra.grance is very vital for the products. Sometime combination of
fragrances gives a better appeal.
Compatibility of perfume with other constituents of the formulation
-is to be checked properly before use. Constituents of powder preparation may change the character of fragrance.
POWDER PRODUCTS
(1) FACE POWDERS
Face powder is an indispensable article of a lady's cosmetic range.
From the mask-like covering in ancient times to the natural look which
is the choice of the presentday, face powders have been and still rernain
one of the basics of the cosmetic industry.
A great deal of changes have taken place in face powder fashion
during the last couple of decades. Tinted, shiny, enhanced by our
modern cosmetics, the woman of today is able, with only modest effort,
to be more attractive than she has ever been in the past.
A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime
function the ability to complement skin colour by imparting a velvet
finish to it.
A good faie powder should produce a smooth t-rnishto the facial
skin, masking visible imperf'ectionsof the face and shine due to moisture
or grease from perspiration or secretion of sebaceousand sweat glands
or fron preparations used on the skin. The powder must produce a
27
lasting effect, so that frequentapplicationis unnecessary.The preparation should make the face pleasantto look and touch. The degreeof
opacity can vary from opaque, in case of clown make-up,to almost
transparent.It must adhereto the skin and be reasonablyresistantto the
mixed secretions
of the skin.
since no singlematerialcan haveall the'requiredpropertiesdesired
in a facepowder,a mixture of different substancesis norrnallyemployed
to get the following essentialcharacteristic's
of a good product(a) Covering power : The ability to mask skin imperfectionssuch
as skin shine,enlargedporesand minor blemishes.
(b) Slip : The characterof spreadingover the skin without dragging,
and giving the characteristic
of smoothfeeling.
(c) Adhesiveness
: The ability to cling to the face.
(d) Absorbency : The ability to absorbskin perspirarionand oily
secretionwithout showingthe effectof suchabsorption.
(e) Bloom : The ability to imparta velvety,peach-likefinish to the
face skin.
(f) Colouring : To imparta coloureffectaccordingto the need.
(g) Perfuming : To produce a pleasantodour. The proportion of
variousingredientsusedcan be alteredto have slight variation
in the properties of the powder and their effect, but, as a
practice, f-acepowders are classified in to three categories
dependingon the natureofthe skin and correspondingly
cover_
ing ability requiredfrom the products.
(i) Light type
(ii) Mediumtype
(iii) Heavytype
Skin to be powderedcan be classifiedinto three categories:dry,
normal or moderatelyoily, and very oily.
(i) Light type : Dry skin requireslight powder, a powder of slight
covering power as dry skin secretesvirtually no oil and little
moisture.fhey normally contain large quantity of talc.
(ii) Medium type : Medium powders,having comparativelyhigher
coveringpower,are appliedto normal or moderatelyoily skins,
which are shinier due to skin secretions. They contain some_
what lessertalc and balancedby zinc oxide.
(iii) Heavy type : Heavy powdershave more coveringpower and are
used for extremelyoily skins which have a greatdeal of shine
28
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
I Calcium carbonate(light)
,Talc
Titanium dioxide
. Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Colour
Perfttme
5.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
57.3gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.5 gm
LIGHT POWDER
Formula2
Talc
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate(light)
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
63.0 gm
20.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
3
Formula
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate(light)
Talc
Colour
Perfume
7.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
62.3 gm
0.3 gm
0.4 gm
29
Formuh4
79.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.3gm
0.3 gm
0.7-gm
Talc
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Colour
Perfume
MEDIUMPOWDER
Formula5
Talc
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate(light)
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
39.7 gm
39.5 gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.6 gm
Formula6
5.0 gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
15.0gm
15.0gm
47.2 gm
0.3 gm
0.5 gm
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Titaniumdioxide
Precipitatedchalk
Rice starch
Talc
Colour
r
Perfume
Fo r m u l a 7
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate
Talc
Colour
Perfume
15.0gm
17.5gm
20.0 gm
47.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.3 gm
HEAVY POWDER
For m ula8
Magnesium stearate
Kaolin (light)
Zinc oxide
5 . 0gm
20.0gm
l 5 . 0 gm
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
30
Calcium carbonate(light)
Talc
Colour
Perfume
39.0 gm
20.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
For m ula 9
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Calciumcarbonate(light)
Kaolin (light)
Talc
Colour,
Perfume
5.0 gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
15.0gm
25.0 gm
34.0 gm
0.4 gm
0.6 gm
3l
prevent
pact powders. A preservative is essential in gum medium to
rnicrobiological growth in the preparations'
(d) Water-repellant binders : These are widely used in compact
lanolin
fa"" io*d"rs and include mineral oil, various fatty esters, and
aid in
to
derivatives in combination with a considerableamount of water
agent may
the formation of a smooth, solidly pressedcake' A wetting
throughout
also be incorporatedto help to uniformly distribute moisture
the powder.
Methods of PreParation
I
B asi cal l ythreem et hods. of pr epar at ionof com pact f acepowder sar e
adopted.
33
\
32
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(3) Damp method : In this method the base powder, colour and
perfume are mixed uniformly. The mixture is then wetted down with
liquid binders like aqueousmucilagesor mucin rich o/w emulsion
binders and blended until the proper plasticity of the mass is attaine(.
The powder is then screenedan/ compressedby machineand dried ht
elevatedtemperature. This method is a widely acceptedmethod and is
usedcommercially.
FORMULAE OF SOME BINDERS
Formula l0
Gum Arabic
Glycerol
Water
Preservative
1.0 gm
5.0 gm
94.0 gm
q.s.
Formulall
Gum tragacanth
Glycerol monostearate
Mineral oil
Sorbitol
Water
Preservative
2.0 gm
6.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
83.0 gm
'q.s
Formula12
Gum tragacanth
Glucose
Water
Preservative
Formula13
Mineral oil
Polyoxyethylenestearate
Water
Preservative
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
93.0 gm
q.s.
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
97.0 gm
q.s.
COMPACTS
Ch-3 POWDERS AND
Formulr l4
Talc
Kaolin
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formule 15
Talc
Calcium carbonate
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formulr16
Talc
Kaolin
Chalk, PreciPitated
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formula17
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formuhl8
Talc
Mica
Titanium dioxide or mica
69.0 gm
18.0gm
t.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s..
q.s.'
q.s.
79.0 gm
9.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s.
60.0 gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
4.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
62.0 gm
ll.0 gm
14.0gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
70.0gm
20.0gm
10.0gm
35
34
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Colour
Binder
Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula"lg
Talc
Syntheticpeari
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
54.0 gm
10.0gm
30.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
perfumes.
AND COMPACTS
Ch.3 POWDERS
characteristic'
contributes to adhesive
magnesium stearate
Colour is not
75.0 gm
10.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
Talc
c6ttoiaAkaolin
Colloidal silica
Magnesium carbonate
Aluminium steafate
Boric acid
Perfume
Formula2l
Talc
Calcium carbonate
,Zinc stearate
Boric acid
Perfume oil
Formula22
Satinex
Talc
carbonate (light)
ri"gn..iut
Boric acid
Perfumeoil
Formula23
Zinc stearate
oxide
Zinc
"f"rug"tti
urn carbonate(li ght)
Tale
Perfume
Formula24
Zinc oxide
(light)
Cui"i"* carbonate
70.0 gm
25.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
6.0 gm
88.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.3gn
0'7 gm
5'0 gm
5.0 gm
15'0 gm
74.5 gm
0'5 gm
4.0 gm
8.0 gm
36
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
Talc
Perfume
87.5 gm
0.5 gm
DEODORANTPO}VDERS
Formulr 25
Zinc oxide
5.0 gm
Zinc stearate
5.0 gm
Chlorhexidinediacetate
0.3 gm
Calcium carbonate(light)
10.0gm
Talc
79.3 gm
Perfume
0.4 gm
Formula26
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Bithional
Calciumcarbonate(light)
Talc
Perfume
10.0gm
5.0 gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
79.2 gm
0.3 gm
BABY POWDERS
Formula22
Talc
Magnesiurnstearate r
Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Boric acid
Perfumeoil
87.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
2.5 gm
0.5 gm
Formula2t
Talc
Kaolin
Magnesiumstearate
Boric acid
Satinex
Perfumeoil
70.0 gm
20.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
3.0 gm
0.5 gm
Talc
Kaolin
Boric acid
Satinex {
Perfumeoil
Formula 29
84.0 gm
10.0gm
3.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
37
(.h.3 POWDERS
AND COMPACTS
MEDICATED DUSTING POWDERS
Formule 30
SodiumproPanedioate7
Talc
Boric acid
20.0gm
78.0gm
2.0 gm
FOOT POWDERS
Formulr 3l
Boric acid
Kaolin
Talc
Menthol
Formule 32
Boric acid
Starch
Talc
10.0gm
44.5 gm
45.0 gm
0.5 gm
I1.0 gm
20.0 gm
69.0 gm z
Evrluation
of variouspowder productsparticularly
Evaluationand assessment
judge the quality of the
loose face powders,compactsare essentialto
at differentlevels.onthe
finishedproducts. Intensivetestingsare done
include.tests
q""iiry of the products. Tests tuti b" thorough and must
apparentdensity'moisturecontent'limits
ilipunitf" size,abrasiveness'
for colour, etc.
extensiveand
Apart from the common test of contentdetermination'
contro|ledstabilitytestarecarriedouttodeterminethattheformulated
time during shelfproJuct will remain stable for an extendedperiod of
stability test can be
life. For this purpose' if necessary,accelerated
for face powdersand
carriedout. other testswhich are doneparticularly
compactsthe are the followingdetermine
(1) Shadc control and lighting : This is to control and
and with the standardthe variation of colour shadeiom batch to batch
Prop.rtestistobedonetopreventvariationinshades'Onesuch
of the body of the powder with
methodis comparisonof tn. appearance
a white paper backa standardwhen it is spreadout *a flattened on
of the sample
comparison
is
evaluation
ground. The otheiln"iftod of
be applied
should
Powders
undertone.
with the standardby skin tone or
the final
is
This
pack'
finished
for
bt ;; samepuff tlat is to be used
colour
for
used
is
lighting
j,rOJ"rn"n for the shade test' Artificial
dvaluation.
38
A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(2) Dispersion of colour': Colour should be homogeneouslydistributed in the powder base. There should not be segregationor bleeding of
colour. This can be tested by spreading the powder on a white paper
and checking it with a magnifoing glass.
(3) Pay-off : The pay-off character,i.e., adhesion with the puff, of a
compact or pressed powder should be tested on the skin. High pressure
will make the cake so hard that the poryder will not rub off the cake
easily enough and thus there will be insufficient adhesion of the material
to the puff. Too low pressure will make the cake soft and thus have a
tendenoy to crumble and break.
(4) Pressure testing : Pressure applied to compact powder should
be uniform to prevent air pocket and thus breaking or cracking. Uniformity of the hardness can be tested by penetrometer. Reading on
hardness is checked, at various points of compact tablet to see the
uniformity of hardness.
(5) Breakage test : This is carried out by dropping the compact
tablet of powder on a wooden surface several times from a height of 8 to
10 inches and checking the breakage or clipping of the compact. If the
cake is unbroken it is indication of the resistance asainst travel and
normal handling.
(6) Flow property : This is very important, particularly for body
powders as they should come out easily from the containelfor easy
application. This can be studied by measuring angle of repose of
powder product by allowing to fall on a plate from a funnel and
measuring the height and radius of heap formed. Also, the powder may
be allowed to fall from a funnel and noting the time taken.
(7) Particle size and abrasiveness : Particle size can be determined
by microscope, sieve analysis or by using sophisticated instruments and
techniques. Abrasiveness can be studied by rubbing the powders on a
smooth surf'ace and then studying the effect on the surface using microscope.
(8) Moisture content and limits for colour : These can be estimated by using suitable analytical methods.
CHAPTER-4
Skin Colorants
an ancientpractice
Colouring skin, particularly skin of face and lips' is
the use of.such
days'
present
In
going Uit to irehistoric period'
texture' lustre
colours'
of
shaded
of
iroAi.t, has increasedand choice
from the
observed
be
can
This
ir"ve been changedand becomewider'
to
colours
of
shades
of
fact that lipsticls are marketed in hundreds
satisff the demandsof women"
Apartfromnormaldailylife,skincolorantsarealsousedfordrama'
ci."us,danceetc'Thepresentchapterwillbasicallydiscusstwospecific
skin colorants.
(1) LiPsticks
(2) Rouge
are
The skin colorantsare also called as'Beauty Aids'but-they
is
colorants
skin
of
differentfrom other cosmetics. The sole purpose
cosother
whereas
;il;;;,i"t of appearancefor enhancedattractiveness'
or promotion of the
meticshave other specific functionsof maintenance
skin health along with or without decorativefunctions'
skin' Decorative
Skin colorantsor beautyaids must not damagethe
of aging'
preparationsare used to tride small blemishesor symptoms
demonstrate
and
:fhay ur. also usedto createa well-groomedappearanpe
to attract opposite
the desireto impressupon others. They are applied
as psychological'
sexandto be noticedupon. The motivescan be termed
pleasantlyfragrant'
Manufacturerstry to make these as decorative,
main activeingredicoloured,non-tackyand harmlessas possible' The
are also essentialto
ent in such preparationsis dye but oiher materials
and auxiliary
hold the dyainlhe preparationsand for easeof application
effects.
(l) LIPSTICKS
usedby women'
Lipsticks,also termedas lip cosmetics,are widely
that they
decades
of
couple
last
f ,iprtrcf.shave become,o popul"t in the
40
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
cosmetic-product' Its
are now probably usedmore than any other single
flooded
b" gauged from the fact that market has been
popularity
of productswith hundredsof shades'
,riift pf"nty""n
matter in a base
Lipsticks are basically dispersions of colouring
waxei suitably perfulned
consistingof a suitableUienaof oils, fats, and
in a'case'
n"uo-ur"d,moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed
glossy and moist
-J
Lipstick is usedto impart an attractivecolour' and
the
to the lips, accentuatingtheir good points and disguising
lips can be made to
"pp"riun""
O""l*,t. By properiy applying a iipstick broader
look as broad lips' An
look as nalrow or narrow^lipsmay be changedto
the apparent facial
change
ini"ffig"ntly applied lipstick can totally
lips which
chapp-ing.of
and
upp""i"""". It'also helpsto preventcracking
also
lipsticks
for
used
base
can lead to the Uacteiial infection' The
producesan emollient action'
LipskinSkinofthelipsischaracterizedbyanexceptionallythin
developedand the
corneal layer. The stratumlerminativum is strongly
just
below the surface'
rlood content
are very much
glands
ls but salivary
of the lips'
moisture
the
ra maintain
entirely
almost
are
lips
sparsely,the
to dry
tends
layer
comeal
free from fat. In very cold or dry weatherthe
very
is
lips
ofthe
layer
out and producecracled lips' Sincethe corneal
on
applied
substances
thin, and further, crackedin ary condition' alien
is
This
germinativum'
the lips can quite easily penetrateto-the stratum
ingrediand selecting
;l*"i, to be kept in mind while making lipsticks
ents for it.
characteristics:
Characters A lipstick should have the following
gloss and last for
(l) It should cover the lips adequatelywith some
long time.
(2) It should make the iiPs soft'
being brittle and
(3) The film must adherefirmly to the lips without
tackY.
(4) It shouldhave a good degreeof indelibility'
without any
(5) It should have high retention of colow intensity
changein shade'
be non-drying'
(6) It shouldbe completelyfree from grittinessand
(7) It should be non-initating to the skin of lips'
('h..
SKIN COLORANTS
4l
.,lltT'oli.ti#
mainrv
rhestick
composition
frltTilt'*:T::
42
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
(2) oils
The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. It also acts as a solvent
for eosin dyestuffs or as a dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. An
ideal rnixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and
produces a thin film with good covering power.
(a) Castor oil : Castor oil is used in many lipsticks becauseof its
good qualities, though nowadays some other oils or solvents are being
used. A refined grade castor oil is of good colour and is odourless and
tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticising agent. An antioxidant is
to be added to the castor oil against rancidification though it is not as
prone to rancidification aS other vegetable oils like olive oil or almond
oil. High viscosity of castor oil makes the dispersion of pigments long
stable during the mixing and moulding stages of manufacture. Normaliy, about 40-50% of castor oil is used. But when a higher proportion
is used the proporlion of high melting point waxes needs to be ad.iusted
to get a high melting point base mixture.
(b) Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters : This alcohol and
its esters like acetate, stearate, ricinoleate are also used in lipstick
preparation. The acetate has very good solvent prclperty for the eosin
dye. But the volatile property of the solvent can lead to smudging of the
outline by evaporation from the hotter inner surface and deposition on
t'h 4 liKrNcoLoRANTS
43
lhc cooler edges. The acetate has an unpleasant taste and odour. But
tlourate and ricinoleate are lood and non-volatile but their solvent
ptopcrty is a little less.
(c) Fatty acid alkaylamides : They are non-volatile and have no
rrrrgrlcasant
taste or odour. They increasethe stability of the lipsticks but
do rrot have emollient action. They help in dispersing the pigments.
(d) Paraflin oil : It is used in not more than 5To to give a glossy
Hpl)caranceafter application. In higher proportion the oil will come off
llrc lips and run around the lips. It also acts as lubricant to facilitate
rerrrovalof sticks from the moulds after pouring.
(c) Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate :
llresc are also used to facilitate smooth application. Due to their low
rrrrlirce tension they have a good wetting effect on insoluble dyes and
pigrncnts,and also act as mutual solvents for oils and waxes. Presence
ol hinders is required to incorporate isopropyl myristate, otherwise it
trruyseparateout becauseof its low surfacetension.
Apart from the waxes and oils, sometime fats are incorporated in the
llJrslicksto serve the purpose of giving more body to the film on the lips,
rrrroothingthe skin of the lips or softeningit. It also helps in dispersion
ol'irrsoluble pigments. The substanceswhich are normally incorporated
sle cocoa butter (theobroma oil), hydrogenatedvegetable fats.
'l'hc use of acetoglycerideshas also been recommendedin lipsticks
to
Irrrprovethixotropic properties of sticks and to maintain constantviscoslly cvcn in higher temperature. They also improve the plasticity of the
fl l ttron the l i ps.
(l) Rromo Mixture
'l'he bromo mixture is, essentially,a solution of the staining
dyestuff
Itr n fatty material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or
gtnrtinllyin solution. Apart from the fatty rnaterials mentioned earlier,
carluin other fatty materials have a specific function as a constituent of
hrurno mixture. This is the portion of the product which imparts an
Itrrlclible stain as distinct from the opaque film of colour given by
Inroluble pigments. As the present-daychoice is the product with high
rteining qualities instead of the product whioh covers the lips with a
lltlck film of vividly coloured materials, bromo mixture is widely used.
'l'hc
dyestuff of bromo mixture, known as bromo acids, consists of
fluuresceins,halogenatedfluoresceins and related water insoluble dyes.
(l ri gi nal l y the br om o acid nam e was given t o acid eosin,
telrnhromofluorescein. Bromo acid colours can be classified broadlv
44
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
45
stain,
into two groups,thosewhich are red and give a red or reddish-blue
yellowish-pink
give
pink
a
to
stain.
and thosewhich are orange,red and
In general,lipstick formulationsare not high stainingtypes,about2-37o
of bromoacid is used,normally,in castoroil and butyl stearatemixture.
(b) Insoluble dyestuffs and lake colours : These are the colouring
ngentswhich cover the thin layer over the lips. They consist of calcium,
hnrium, aluminium and strontium lakes. Calcium and barium lakes
prcpared from azotype dyestuffs are also used. These are called lake
frttrcrs. These dyestuffs are used in 10-15% depending on the shade and
opncity of the film. Aluminium lakes are not usually preferred because
ol'lheir lack of opacity, but they can be used in transparentlipsticks.
46
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
('lr 4 SKINCOLORANTS
47
enlrilpmentof air. The mass should not be melted after the high melting
point waxes have been added. Gentle stirring is coritinued until the mass
lr lurrnogeneousand it is then poured in lubricated moulds.
Automatic ejection mould is preferable for large quantities and split
trrouldsare satisfactory for small-scaleproduction. The mould is lubriurtcd with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before'pouring the
rnnss. No excess lubricant should be left in the mould surface. The
ttrixcd mass should be poured into the mould at as low a temperatureas
ltrssible to prevent settling down of colours. Also the moulds may be
wnlrned before pouring the mass to avoid formation of ridges. After
porrling the mass the moulds are chilled to achieve contraction of the
wnxcs to facilitate easy removal of the sticks.
Automatic ejection moulds are fitted with a water iacket which is
lqctl to warrn or chill the mould as required.
l ,l l tsti ck Formul ae
scveral representativelipstick formulae are listed below. Each forrrrrlrrcan be modified by a slight modification in proportions of oils and
tvnxcsand other ingredientsto adjust proper melting point, spreadability,
nrrtl thickness of the film on the lips according to the particular characf*r'islics required. The formulae can vary in proportions of lake colours
enrl bromo acids. Titanium dioxides may or may not be part of the
lorrrrrrladependingon the requirement. perfume, preservativeand antirrrrirlnntshould be added in proper quantity to achieve the best effect.
For m ulaI
Castor oil
Lanolin, anhydrous
Candelilla wax
Isopropyl myristate
White beeswax
Carnauba wax
Ozokerite wax
Eosin
Lakes
Rose flavour
Antioxidant
Preservative
54.0 gm
11.0gm
9.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula2
Beeswax
Ozokerite wax
15.0gm
10.0gm
48
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Carnaubawax
Ceresinwax
Lanolin
Lanolin, anhydrous
Isopropylmyristate
Diethyl sebacate
Castoroil
Eosin
Colour lakes
Antioxidant
Perfume
Preservative
Formula3
Camauba wax
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax (white)
Bepswax, yellow
Paraffin
Hexadecyl stearate
Castor oil
Lanolin oil
Oleyl alcohol
Tenox II
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
14.0gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
3.5 gm
7.5 gm
3.5 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
8.0 gm
15.4gm
30.0 gm
15.0gm
0.1 gm
10.0gm
1.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 4
Castoroil
Beeswax
Paraffin oil
Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropylmyristate
Ozokeritewax
Carnaubawax
Propyleneglycol
Propyleneglycolmonoricinoleate
Eosin
27.0 em
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
5.0 gm
2"0 gm
3.0 gm
10.0gm
2.5 gm
11.0gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
-l
49
l0'0 gm
Colour
q's'
Perfume
q's'
Antioxidant
q's' .
Preservative
properties'
l'lrc aboveproductis non-greasytype with good staining
Formula5
Castor oil
Beeswax
Lanolin
Isopropyl mYristate
Ozokerite wax
Carnauba wax
Propylene glYcol
Candelilla wax
Glycerin monostearate
Acetylated monoglyceride (solid)
Acetylated monoglyceride (liquid)
Eosin
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
39.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
7.0 gm
3.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Fo.mula6
wax
Carnauba
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax
Beeswax
Lanolin
Castor oil
IsoproPYl mYristate
Halogenatedfl uorosceins
Lake colours
Propyl-p-hYdroxY benzoate
Perfume
2.50 gm
6.00 gm
2.50gm
6.00 gm
8.00 gm
55.00gm
4.00 gm
3.00 gm
12.00gnt
0.20 gm
0.80gm
Formula7
Castor oil
Butyl stearate
Abracol l.S.L.
Emulsenel2l2
15.0gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
2.0 gm
50
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS;
Beeswax
Spermaceti
Petroleumjelly
Hydrogenated palm kernel oil
Acid eosin
Titanium dioxide
Lake colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
20.0 gm
10.0gm
12"0gm
15.0gm
1.0gm
1.0gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s
q.s.
(2) ROUGE
,.Rouge can be defined as the cosmetic preparations
used to apply a
colour to the cheeks. lThe colour can vary
from the pur"rt orpint, to tt
deep blue reds but the conventionar roug"
contains a high proportion of"
red or reddish brown pigments. The tint
or colour may be achieved by
us ing wate r-i n s o l u b l e c o ro u rs s u c h
as i ron oxi des and certai n
organic pigments or by using water-sorubre
organic colours which actually stain the skin. products containi
colours are used as toners for specii
should be selected carefully to avo
proportion of a suitable bromo acir
and attractive blushing effect.
Over the years lots of changes have occurred
in rouge composition.
Ancient people used to colour their cheeks
with a .olot, ,"u**"d o,
cinnabar'
people started using red ochre, vermitiorr,'"oct
ineat or
extracts of-Later
sandalwood or brazilwood. In the early
tweniies the tiquid
rouges' dry rouges or greaserouges basicaily
containing i"."'ni.",
etc. were used.
"ori",
One of the oldest forms of rouge is the type
known as cream rouge.
I,T^:od"rl rouge preparations the pigments
or corours are present in
different form of carriers unrt uc"ordingry
can be classified into four
types but dry rouge is the most .o-rnoJy
und *id.ly ur.a fp"_
(l) Powder rouges
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based
rouges
(3) Emulsion cream rouges
(4) Liquid rouges
(l) Powder rouges :r-powderrouges
are normally marketed as loose
powders and compressedpowders or
compacts. They contain pigments
5I
i,h 4 IiKINCOLORANTS
talc,
nrrrl lakes in dry form, mixed with standardpowder materials like
additionally
rouges
Compact
carbonate.
magnesium
and
rirr: stcarate
rilrrtlrin a binder and are compressedin tablet form. Compact rouges are
Irrolc popular than loose powder becausethey dust less on application
nrrrlrrtlherebetter to the skin dtte to presenceof binders'
According to the intensity of the pigment and the intended colouring
the
ellct:t of the powder, the pigment content is usually 5 to 20Yo of
by
replaced
partly
or
wholly
sometimes,
are,
lrrw(lor mass. Pigments
in
lesser
used
are
and
effect
colour
intense
i'kes which produce more
rilrrrrrtities.Rouges, sometimes,additionally contain water-soluble dyes'
stain
IrEtrlrrblecolorants remain on the skin, whereas, the soluble ones
Some
non-permanent.
and
loose
tlre skin tissue itself. Stain should be
given
lllrrstrative examples of powder rouges and compact rouges are
l rr' l ow :
lrreparation Add the perfume with magnesium carbonateor starch
rrr'otlrer adsorbent,mix properly and keep it covered for half an hour'
Mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin'
carbonate and then the required colour' Mix
Arld the
-ugn"rirand store in a suitable oontainer'
llrrrroughly
FOWI}ER ROUGE,S
For m ulaI
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
14.5gm
14.5gm
55.0gm
14.0gm
2.0 gm
8.3 gm
16.6 gm
8.3 gm
12.4 gm
37.4 gm
15.0gm
,.9 E!
Formula p
Zinc oxide
Lanolin
8.5 gm
25.5 gm
52
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
17.0gm
34.0 gm
13.0gm
2.0 gm
Formula l l
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Talc
Colours
Perfume
16.0gm
12.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0gm
3.0 gm
60.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
Formula12
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumcarbonate
Rice starch
Titanium dioxide
Colours
Perfume
48.0 gm
16.0gm
6.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
Mix the perfume with magnesium carbonate and keep aside with
cover. Mix other ingredients thoroughly. Add magnesium carbonate
and mix. Add colour and mix and then compress.
t,h"{
53
SKIN COLORANTS
Formul*!l'
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Zinc stearate
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
Binder
5.0 gm
5.0 grn
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
75.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
BINDER
IsopropYlmYristate
Lanolin absorPtionbase
50/o wlw
50ohwlw
i'i
54
A HANDBOoKoF cosMETrcs
16.0gm
4.0 gm
54.0 gm
ll.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s
Forrnula 15
Petrolatum(short fibre)
Isopropyl myristate
Lanolin (light)
Glyceryl monostearate
Lakes
Perfume
40.0 gm
35.0gm
5.0 gm
12.0gm
8.0 gm
q.s
Ih1
S K I N C O L O RAN TS
16.0gm
Stearicacid
5.5 gm
Lakes
q.s.
Perfume
oils' fats' and waxes in
Mix and grind the lakes together' Mix
just abovethe meltingpoint of the
lrrrrcrrsingmeltingpoint and heai to
melt andgrind the mixturea
i,igf tn'"tring**. Stit pigmentsinto th:
'"*t
perfumetowardsthe end of
lew tirrreson a heated,.ipf" iofftt mill' Add
l l f( l (rcsq.
Lanolin
Cocoa butter
Beeswax
Liquid paraffin
Cetyl alcohol
Water
Borax
Colour
Perfumes
Preservative
Formula 18
Formula 16
Ceresin
Petrolatum(short fibre)
Paraffin oil
32.5 gm
13.5gm
2.5 gm
Beeswax
IsopropYl mYristate
4.0 gm
4.0 gm
14.0gm
26'0 gm
1.0 gm
44.2 gm
0.8 gm
7'0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
20.0 gm
14.0gm
30.0gm
56
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Cetyl alcohol
Triethanolamine
lauryl sulphate
Borax
Water
Propyleneglycol
Lake
Perfume
Preservative
3.0 gm
0.4 gm
1.0 gm
21.6 gm
12.0gm
8.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
A . Stearicacid
Isopropylmyristate
Lanolin
Beeswax
Glycerolmonostearate
B. Propyleneglycol
Glycerin
Water
14.25gm
2.25 gm
3.25 gm
4.50 gm
7.00 gm
4.75 gm
3.00gm
56.00gm
{'h,I
57
SKTNCOLORANTS
C. Pigments
Perfume
(watersoluble)
Preservatives
5.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
0.5 gm
Erythrosine
gm
20.0
glYcbl
Propylene
gm
10.0
Ethyl alcohol
gm
69.5
Rosewater
mixed-with
l'hc colour is first mixed with propyleneglycol and then
a suitable
in
stored
then
is
It
sotulion.
a
otlrer ingredientsto make
I i l nl i l ttl er.
Formula22
Sodium alginate
Calciunt citrate
Wetting agent
Water soluble dYe
Rose water
Preservative
0.45 gm
0.15 gm
0.20 gm
0.20 gm
99.00 gm
q.s.
'l'lrc: wetting agent, sodium alginate and dye are first dissolved in
n| xl tl | 6()ml rosewat er . Calcium cit r at eisslur r edinanot her 30m lr ose
of the alginate
rvrrrcrilnd added to the first portion when thickening
volume made'
and
sillrrtiorrstarted. Preservativesare added afterwards
58
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
97.5gm
0.4 gm
q.s.
q.s.
li,
t h { 'sKlN CoLoRANTS
59
60
CHAFIIER-5
Skin Creams
the
sh in care is the age old necessityof mankind. This necessitylead to
('rlrtinuous modification and invention of more and more skin care
r'rtsnreticpreparations'
t'h,t
62
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(:S
l
L
Although adequate washing with soap and water will perform the
cleaning action but a cleansing cream has certain advantages. Washing
with soap-water makes the skin look dry. The cleansing cream can
readily remove the chemical substances of the facial make-up by
dissolving or lifting away the greasybinding materialsholding pigments
or grime on the skin. Studies have indicated that solidified skin oil,
sebum over sebaceousor pilosebaceousorifices are resistantto removal
by scrubbing with soap and water, but can easily be removed by the use
of various commercial cleansing creams, polyethylene glycol 400, and
olive oil. Various fat solvents such as acetone, chloroform, glycerol,
kerosene, white gasoline, dioxane, and 95o/oethanol were found to be
effective in removal of surface oil layer, but not the slid sebum plaques.
This may be due to the superior efficacy of cleansing creamsto dislodge
and remove these plaques from the orifices of the sebaceousducts.
Ease of application is an irnportant feature of the cleansing cream
and so most of these creams are liquids so that excesscream and soil are
then easily removable with tissue. The resultant layer left on the skin
must not be occlusive but should be sufficiently emollient to prevent
drying. Cold creams on the other hand must primarily have an emollient
action. It is also expectedthat they should produce a cooling sensation
in ustl and the resultant oil fiLn on the skin should be non-occlusive.
r\ cleansing crearn should be easily applicable and spreadable. It
should cause low irritation to the skin. In addition to the primary
functiorr of cleaning, a multipurpose character can Lreimparted by adding appropriate ingredients to bring abilities to soften, lubricate, and
protect.
SKIN CREAMS
63
('hrracteristics
A good cleansing cream should have the following characteristicswater( l) It should effectively be able to remove oil-soluble and
and
face
specifically
skin,
soluble soil and ,uif^"" oil from the
throat.
OF COSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
64
ct r SKINCREAMS
A.
15.0gm
Beeswax
1.0gm
32.0gm
q.s.
B. Borax
Water
Preservative
q.s.
C. Perfume
Heat first five materials (A) and next three materials (B) separatelyin
glass containers at about 75oC. Add the second mixture to the first
mixture slowly with continuous stirring until the thick stable emulsion is
formed. Add the perfume when the temperature has fallen to about
35"C. Stir again, mill and store in a suitable container'
\4ormuia
A.
Beeswax
Almond oil
Lanolin
2.0 gm
50.0gm
0.5 gm
q.s.
C. Perfume
'ff,rmutas
A . Beeswax
Mineral oil
Paraffin wax
Spermaceti
Borax
Preservative
q.s.
C . Perfume
{rn.11u a
A. Beeswax
Ceresin wax
Mineral oil
Lanolin
Water
Preservative
q.s.
C . Perfume
Formula 5
Wheat-germ oil
SPermaceti
Beeswax
B. Water
Borax
Preservative
(1. Perfume
Formula 6
A. Beeswax
Mineral oil
Parafftn wax
CetYl alcohol
9.0 gm
4.5 gm
52.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.7 gm
33.3gm
q.s
B. Borax
A.
10.0gm
50.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
28.4 gm
0.6 gm
q.s.
B. Water
millins.
BEESWAX-BORAXCOLD CREAM TYPE
F o rmu l aI
28.0gm
Mineral oil
14.0gm
lsopropyl myristate
2.5 gm
Acetoglyceride
7.5 gm
Petroleum jelly
2.0 gm
35.5gm
q.s.
B. Borax
Rose water
Preservative
48.0 gm
15.0gm
15.0gm
21.5gm
0.5 gm
, q.s,
q.s.
8.0 gm
49.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.0 gm
A HANDtsOOK OF COSMETI( \
B. Borax
0.4 gm
34.6 gm
, q.s.
qs.
Water
Preservative
c
A
Perfume
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Spermaceti
Ozokeritewax
Lanolin
Formula7
Borax
Water
Preservative
12.00gm
50.25gm
5.00 gm
5.00 gm
2.00 gm
0.75 gm
25.00gm
q.s.
C. Perfume
q.s.
th r $KlNCREAMS
LIQUEFYING CLEANSING CREAMS
Formuh 6
80.0 gm
Mineral oil
15.0gm
jellY
Petroleum
5.0 gm
()zokeritewax
g.s.
I'reservative
q.s.
Perfume
Cool with stitring'
ll'nt all the oils and waxestogetheiat 65"C'
in a suitable
and perfumeafteicooling at 40oC' Store
Arll prcservative
r.otrlttittcr.
Formule9
IsoproPYlmYristate
Mineral oil
l'etroleum jellY
Paraffin wax
Preservative
Perfume
Formulal0
42.0 gm
18.0gm
12.0gm
14.0gm
14.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
The pe
25.0 gm
25.0 gm .,.
30.0 gm
20.0 gm
q.s
q.s
Mineral oil
l)ctrolatum
l)araffin wax
llccswax
l'reservative
l'crfume
(2) FOUNDATION
62.5 gm
18.75gm
12.5 gm
6'25 gm
. q.s.
q.s.
AND VANISHING
CREAMS
68
69
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
base for the make-up acting as an adherent base for application of makeup powders. rthey also provide emollient action, and a protective actiorr
against environment by leaving a semi-occlusive residual film on the
skin which is neither too greasy nor too drying. It can also be mentioned here that another nomenclature, 'Day Creams', is used as these
preparations are used during the day in contrast to heavy-night creams.
All these creams must not damage the skin, should be stable and have a
good consistency.
Normally these preparations are based on stearic acid but can be
varied also. Some suitable additives may be incorporatedto impart skin
protecting properties. The formula can be modified suitably to make
genuine skin conditioners with emollient or depth effect or cleansersof
the massage cream type. The composition of stearatecreams intended
for daytime use (day creams) is usually very simple.
!.r
\KlN ('REAMS
#;;';;
:
mc
- ^ _ ^ +i
time'
it aftersome
,',,,.t.
"
the
intain
i' 1,:?-:""11T'lt"11"t"nrffi*: ;,;;;' no,o"*aing107.1
j,*JTfu1#'""1""ii:J;
mlnute
!*e;'*-o'jr'ry,
F||tIqIBtc||cy an-d-q!3lg+-,#*^O.=;Ol
,,,,:l::ili;'"ffi
ication, forming o,f
absorb
artematrve
usingaltemative
by using
bv
fiElrrrr,,it rnay
+.o
iJ ou"'"o*"
^rercorn
i'1"1,"::H:#H;LJ;;;
l',1,',..1'.,
lil
much wanted'
ing creams is very
The materials
tain the fearliness'
sPermaceti'
u'" iio"ia Paraffin'
'
nond oil'
Vanishing Creams
They are called vanishing creams because they seem to disappear
when rubbed into the skin. These preparationsare stearic acid basedand
part of the stearic acid is saponified with an alkali and rest of the stearic
acid is emulsified with this soap in a large quantity of water.
iAfter*
application the cream leaves a dry but tacky residual film which also has
a drying effect on the skiil Because of this reason the stearic acid soap
based creams are still favoured for use with greasy skin conditions and
particularly in hot climatesT-which cause perspiration on the face and
where more emollient creanis are not suitable.
$inest quality triple-pressed stearic acid of melting point of about
55"C is normally used. The high quality stearic acid plovides an oil
phase,which melts above body temperatureand crystallizes in a suitable
form, provides an invisible and non-greasy film and can produce a very
attractive appearance) Normally 20-3Oo of free fatty acids is neutralized by using alkali,'either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide)
Characters of the creams vary according to the proportion of the stearic
acid present {!e
total proportion should not exceed 25Yo, and best
preparations are obtained using l6-207o neutralizatior| fne consistency
and texture of the cream also depends on the amount of acid saponified
and the nature of alkali used.(Sodium hydroxide makes a harder creams
than potassium hydroxide) The amount of alkali is required to be
calculated on the basis of 6mount of free acid available.
from potassi um hydrox ide, trglbqplquoing.-is -also an exceI lent
(pa,t
alkali to prepare good quality creatns. Use of triethanolamine makes the
cfilrElrlcrocl'
Formula 12
A. Stearic acid
CetYl alcoholTriethanolamine
20.00gm
0.50 gm
1.20gm
70
A HANDBOOK OF COSMEI'I( S
Sodiumhydroxide
Glycerin
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.36 gm
8.00 gm
69.94 gm
q.s
q.s
Formule13 '/
Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Stearicacid
Propyleneglycol
Potassiumhydroxide
2.00 gm
0.50 gm
10.00gm
8.00 gm
0.40 gm
Water
Perfume
Preservative
79.10gm
q.s.
q.s.
th!
7l
\ h r N ( 'r i l ; A M S
Sodium hydroxide
'l'riethanolamine
ll
(i l yce r in
Water
[)erfume
l'reservative
0.36 gm
l.2O gm
8.00 gm
69.94 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 17 o/
Stearic acid
l)otassiumhYdroxide
ll
(i l ycer in
Water
l)erfume
l'reservative
20.0gm
1 . 4gm
4.0 gm
74.6gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 14
A
12.0gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
Sorbitol syrup
Propylene glycol
Triethanolamine
B. Glycerin
0.3 gm
78.2 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Water
Perfume
Preservative
' Formula 15
A. Stearic acid
Potassium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide
Cetyl alcohol
Propylene glycol
B. Glycerin
15.00gm
0.50 gm
0.18 gm
0.50 gm
3.00 gm
5.00 gm
75.82gn
q.s.
q.s
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
l l re l rrrtrrrl :rlitcr
) lteam scan be of t wo t ypes| | 1 I'rlirrtcntedcreamswhich are coloured
I '1 t lrrpigmentedcreams
Formula 16
A.
20.00gm
0.50 gm
72
A HANDBOOK OF COSMTrrr i
A. Liquid paraffin
2.00 gm
0.50gm
10.00gm
0.40 gm
8.00 gm
79.10gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m u l a 1 9
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin (anhydrous)
Glyceryl monostearate
Triethanolamine
B. Water
1.00gm
L00 gm
2.00 gm
18.00gm
1.58gm
76.00gm
2.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Sorbitol
Perfume
Preservative
Formula20
A.
Spermaceti
Glyceryl monostearate
Colours
B. Water
Glyceryl
Perfume
Preservative
Formula2l
A. Glyceryl monostearate
Mineral oil
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropyllinoleate
B. Glycerin
Water
ri l i l N C ]R E A M S
q.s.
q.s.
Perfume
Preservative
Formuls 22
Formule 18
<
A. Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Stearicacid "
Potassiumhydroxide
B. Propyleneglycol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
It
th!
A. Lanolin
Mineral oil
Stearic acid
Glyceryl monostearate
ll.
Glycerin
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfrtme
Preservative
1.00gm
10.00gm
2.50 gm
3.00 gm
5.00 gm
0.50 gm
78.00gm
q.s.
q.s.
t0undrtlon Make-uP
to hold the powder
Ar loundation cream is used as a base make-up
process' The idea of
*lrle trp above it, the total make-up is a two-step
processand the.troumake-up came to overcomethis two-step
lirrrrrrlrrriolr
forms, particularly-liquid,
hls rvrrlt il. Foundation make-up in various
it
has replacedthe foundacountries
in
some
heqlrr'r'(lrncso popular that
The reason being the liquid
ltrr (tcurils and loose powder altogether'
than powder and a smooth
firrrrr,lrrlittnmake-up is much easier to apply
of surfactants may
presence
the
Though
can be obtained.
Bplre-nnlnco
hair follicles and fissures of
rrtrrlc tlrc colours or pigments penetite the
it has some popularity'
u1,i,t",,,,i,if not compllt"ly ,.-on"d, still
5.00 gm
20.00 gm
3.00 gm
A.
67.00gm
5.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
' lt.
Formula23
Lanette wax
Stearic acid
Water
Glycerin
Powder base
Colour
Perfume
Preservative
8.00 gm
8.00 gm
64.00gm
10.00gm
10.00gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
20.00gm
5.00 gm
2.00 gm
1.50gm
8.00 gm
71.00gm
formuh 24
Butyl stearate
Stearicacid
1.00gm
12.00gm
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Sorbitanmonostearate
2.00gm
Polyxyethylenesorbitanmonostearate
1.00 gm
Propyleneglycol
12.50gm
2.00 gm
Talcum
8.00 gm
Titanium dioxide
2,00 gm
Iron oxide (red)
1.00gm
Water
58.00gm
Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
Take the first four substancesand heat it at about 70oC. Heat water
and sorbitolliquid to sametemperature
and makeemulsion. Add colour
and perfume with talcum and then mix with propvleneglycol
and
sorbitolliquid and mix with the emulsion,cooledat 35oC. Homogenize
the whole preparationin an ointmentmill.
Formula25
A. Stearicacid
Span60
Isopropylpalmitate
B. Tween60
Propyleneglycol
Water
Dry powders(titaniumdioxide,
talc, inorganicpigments)
Perfume
Preservative
15.0gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
1.50gm
10.00gm
54.00gm
15.00gm
q.s.
q.s.
( lr I
S K IN C R E A MS
I)
orrc arrother. The common feature is that they are generally applied on
tlrt' skin and left for several hours, say overnight, and all of them assist
Irr tlrc repair of skin which has been surface damaged by exposure to
vnlious elements or exposure to detergent solution or soap. 'They
rrolrrally contain high quantity of oily and fatty materials together with
r,rrrolliontssuch as lanolin or lanolin derivatives and are preparedeither
sr oil-in-water or water-in-oil or as mixed emulsion systems. Skin acts
ns l barrier between the body and its environment maintaining a controlIt'rl rlynamic equilibrium. Various stressesimposed by the environmental
Irrt:lorscan cause changesor damage to the skin. The major function of
llrcsc creams is to help to reverse these changes and maintain a normal
lrcrltlry skin. They are easy to apply but not too easy to rub in. These
('rcilrns are also not to rub in. They are sticky and greasy due to
lrrcscnceof oil/wax but this charactercan be avoided by using materials
.,rrc:h
as fatty acid esters,acetylatedglycerides and other oils which have
pood spreading properties. The objective of using such creams is to
eovcr the skin with a well dispersed, and consequently thin residual
occlusivefilm which is not greasyor sticky. When this film is allowed
kr rcrnain,the loss of moisture is slowed down comparatively.
As normally these creams are applied at night time, the time norrrurlly assigned-toskin preservationand feeding, they are called night
('rcarns. But they can also be used in clay time as a base for applying
lrrcc powders. These preparationsare also used to supplementhormones
ol vitamins to the skin and they may be termed as hormone creams or
v itarnin creams respectively.
Composition Emoliient and moisturizing substancesare one imporlilnt component of these creams. To rectiff the dryness and maintain the
llcxibility of the skin emollients are used. Emollient action can be
uchievedby two mechanisms.
(l)
77
* rhtN ('RliAMS
+=fr
':.6
A HANDBooKoF cosMErICS
skin.
Lanolin and its derivatives, stearic acid, wool wax alcohols, wool
wax steroids, beeswax, artificial preen gland oil, vegetable oils like
groundnut oil have found use in these creams.
Various esters like isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, or
isoalcohols are also incorporated.
Vitamins or hormones are incorporated in these creams for nourishment to the skin and they can thus be termed as vitamin crealns or
hormone creams. The vitamins which are used for this purpose are
vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E or some water soluble vitamins. The
name vitamin F has been given to a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids,
including linoleic acid, linolenic acid and is arachidonic acid, and used
in creams for treatment of skin. They are normally used as alkyl esters
like isopropyl ester, etc.
Estrogen, progestin, pregnenolone and androgens are all claimed to
have sh&n limited restorative effects on aged skin. Though there is
fear that the hormones may be absorbed and can produce systemic side
effects but as the concentrations at which they are used in these creams
are very low, so the chances of side effects are not there' A suitable
vehicle is required to dissolve hormone and for this purpose oil of
persic, vegetable oils, benzyl benzoate, ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol
may be used.
Suitable perfume is incorporated according to the choice or acceptability. As these preparations are emulsions and contain good amount of
watei, preservatives are also to be incorporated. Methyl parahydroxy
benzoate in combination with propyl or butyl parahydroxy benzoate are
widely used for this PurPose.
If the preparations contain unsaturated esters or oils, antioxidant
should be incorporated to prevent rancidification'
As these preparations are
General procedure of manufacturing
emulsion typi, they contain two categoriesof ingredients,oil and similar
substances and water and other water miscible ingredients. Both should
be taken separately and heated nearly to same temperature to get all in
liquid state. Mix the two with continuous stirring until cream is formed.
ll.
White beeswax
I)araffin wax
l,anolin
38.0 gm
8.0 gm
15.0gm
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
Borax"
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
1.0 gm
35.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mineral oil
Petroleumjelly
Formula27
A . Beeswax
Mineral oil
Lanolin oil
Isopropyl palmitate
Acetylated glyceride
Lanolin
It. Borax
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
8.0 gm
15.0gm
7.5 gm
10.0gm
2.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
35.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
lleul componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyto 75"C' Add 'B' to 'A'
perfume
elnwly with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add
in
added
be
should
Preservative
Wherrtlre temperatureis about 35oC.
* E l E r l )l ul sc .
Formula28
A. Groundnrlt oil
Mineral oil (light)
PetroleumjellY
Lanolin
Beeswax
Borax
15.0gm
20.0 gm
30.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.3 gm
78
B. Water
t i
243 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
Formula29
A. Vegetable oil
Isopropyl myristate
Acetoglyceride S/C
Acetoglyceride LIC
Oleyl alcohol
Lanolin
Isopropyl linoleate
Stearyl alcohol
Stearic acid
Lecithin
Beeswax
Borax
B. Triethanolamine
21.00gm
8.00 gm
7.50gm
5.00 gm
3.00gm
2.50gm
2.00 gm
1.50gm
1.00gm
1.00gm
8.00gm
0.25 gm
0.50gm
38"75gm
q.s.
q.s
Water
Perfume
Preservative
It
ghl ttl
B. Borax
Water
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
1.0gm
37.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l l oru
W ate r
l'crfume
Arrtioxidant
I'tcservative
0.8 gm
40.7 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
HORMONE CREAMS
;\
ll
Mineral oil
40.0 gm
Beeswax yellow
15.0gm
Lanolin
0.5 gm
Isopropyl myristate
5.0 gm
Acetylated lanolin
0.5 gm
Concentrated solution of vitamin A & D 1.0 gm
1.0 gm
31.0gm
8.0 gm
2.5 gm
l l.0 gm
5.0 gm
l 'r"('.
Formula30
A.
Formula3l
linoleate
lsopropyl
Mi rre r aloil
lsopropyl palmitate
l ,l rnolin
llccswax
Microcrystalline wax
l l prrt ,otttponent sof 'A'and'B' separ at elyt o 75oC' and add 'B't o
I eh,rrlr,with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring,adding perfume
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyat about 75"C. Mix 'lI
to 'A' with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add perfurrr,
when cooled to 35"C.
VITAMIN CREAMS
79
tt tN ( t(t:A M S
Formula32
Acctylated lanolin
lsopropyl myristate
Mineral oil (heavy)
Ilorrnone(in vehicle)
llcoswax
(' ctyl alcohol
Stcarylalcohol
lrruulsiffing agent (o/w tYPe)
15.0gm
3.0 gm
4.0 gm
1.0 gm
7.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
15.0gm
W atcr
I' crl ir r ne
Itrcscrvative
A rrl ioxidant
49.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
lliqaillvr.rctlrrisiteamount of estrogenicsubstancein a suitable solrEfif arill rr,,t.il in 'A'. Heat componentsof 'A'and water separatelyat
.,lrrrvlyirtld water to'A' with moderatebut continuousstirring.
rti |
t rmliltr; ',trttitrp,while coqling and add perfume at 35oC'
FRUIT JUICE CREAMS
Formula33
A
oil
S rrrr llower
t i l yc : cr in
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
80
B.
24.0 gm
16"0 gm
Water
Perfume (orange oil)
Preservative
50.0 gm
q.s.
q's.
tt r bl l ri ( l tl rAM S
81
12.0 gm
5.0 gm
6.0 gm
20.0 gm
57.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Heat lanette wax and myristyl alcohol and mix together at 15"(
Heat water with preservative at same temperature but separately. A'l'l
water to first mixture with continuous stirring. Stir in the lemon jtrr,,
and glycerin after emulsion is formed. Finally add lemon oil wlr' "
temperature is about 35"C.
l | rl er hl t
used in these preparaVdrl,ril',tttittcrials,in variable proportions'are
lrr,,ltlirirl different functions'
lfuiit==
Fl * rr
82
A HANDBOoK
oF cosMtirr( ,
83
;!l tr i I l l l AM S
E !
LIQUID CREAMS
Fo r m u l a 3 5
l';opropyl mYristate
Mirrcral oil
S t t 'r r r i ca c i d
I r r r r r l s i l y i n gw a x
| ;rrtolin
il
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
84.225gm
q.s.
q"s.
{ ilyccrin
I r ie thanolamine
Wr t t c t I 't 'r l i t l n e
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.275gm
2.5 gm
I 'rt 's c r v a t i v e
Formula 36
t
t ilyccrol monostearate
t 'r 't y l a l c o ho l
: l i l i c o r r r :o i l
l ; r r r o l i r to i l
\ 1 r : r r rt l 0
I rvt:ctt (r0
ll
2.7 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
2.5 gm
10"0gm
19.3 gm
84
Perfume
Preservative
F.f i
q.s.
q.s.
Alcohol
Water
l)erfume
l)reservative(onlY methYl
parahydroxy benzoate)
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separately. Mix 'B' to .A' wrtl,
continuous stirring. cool while stirring. Add preservative with stirrrrrl,
when cooled to 35oC.
SOLID CREAMS
Formula 37
A. Stearicacid
Isopropylmyristate
Potassiumhydroxide
15.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0gm
B. Sorbitolsolution(70%)
Water
Perfume
Preservative
18.3grn
63.7 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 38
Cetyl oleyl ethoxylate
12.0 gm
73.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix
l rlliolvc preservative in glycerin with gentle heat if required'
perfume'
glycerin and
lhe trngnt'itttit, *itlt the alcohol and add the
slowly, part by
solution
the
add
and
water
in
acid
tllae,rlvt. lltc boric
paste, with gentle stirring'
ir*l tl tlrc lragacanth
Formula40
2.0 gm
10.0gm
0.2 gm
87.8gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
'l'ragacanth
Glycerin
'l'itanium dioxide
Water
l)erfume
Clolour
l)reservative
A.
b h t N ( l {l i A M S
9.0 gm
Mineral oil
Siliconeoil
Paraffin wax
Petroleumjelly
Isopropylmyristate
B. Water
Perfume
Preservative
12.0gm
1.0 gm
8.0 gm
4.0 gm
8.0 gm
NON-AQUEOUSTYPE
For m ula4l
wax
l)araffin
l'ctroleumjellY
I)erfume
46.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
Formula42
l,anolin
(lcresin wax
Amber resin
l)araffin wax
l'ctroleumjellY
Heat components
of A andwaterseparately
at75"C. Add waterto A
with continuousstirring. Cool with stirringaddingperfumeat 35"C.
JELLIES
Formula39
Tragacanth
Boric acid
Glycerin
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
12.0gm
26.0 gm
74.0 gm
q.s.
l'crfume
9.0 gm
18.0gm
4.5 gm
18.5gm
50.0gm
q.s.
point'
lrlell rrrtd rnix the material in increasing order of melting
about
at
mass
Ferllrlre:,lrottld be added last after cooling the mixed
t i "l
86
A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MTJII( .
Fh i
-ihil,r
8',7
( lUiAMS
rri|er trlrr..,iuc also used as can be seen from the following formulaeFormula43
Wool alcohols
Ilard parafhn
White soft paraffin
l.iquid parafhn
l'crfume
Antioxidant
6.0 gm
24.0 gm
10.0gm
60.0 gm
q.s
q.s
trl,lr rlrt. irbove ingredientstogether and stir until cold. Add perfume
sher ,,rr,lr'rlro 35"C with stirring' An equal amount of water can be
rdJr,l tr, llrrs baseto form the cream known as hydrous ointment'
Formula 44
2.5 gm
Wool alcohols
Microcrystallinewax (m.p. 140'-145"F) 6.0 gm
21.0 gm
Mi ner al oil
5.0 gm
I'clroleumjellY
It
( i l yce r in
Magnesium sulPhate
Water
l'crfume
Mcthyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate
I'ropyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate
llrrtylatedhYdroxYanisole
character.
(d) As a protective cream and should form
a continuous non-occlusive film.
(e) As a cream to smooth the rough surface of the
skin.
Composition
5.0 gm
0.7 gm
59.8gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
q.s
Formula45
,,\
I lartolite
('ctyl alcohol
Microcrystalline wax
l,iquid paraffin
It
( i l ycer in
Magnesium sulPhate
W l ter
l )crfu m e
I'rcservative
A rrtioxidant
3.75 gm
0.75 gm
7.60 gm
19.70gm
2.60 gm
0.70 gm
64.90 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s.
88
A TIANDBOOKOF COSME'I'I('T
A. Stearicacid
Lanolin
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Myrj 52
15.0gm
2.0 gm
2.0 gm
24.0 gm
5.0 gm
B. Sorbitalsolution
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
10.0gm
42.0 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s
1.0gm
1.5gm
J.5 gm
5.0 gm
20.0 gm
1.0 gm
B. Glycerin
Magnesiumsulphate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
5.0 gm
0.5 gm
58.5 gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
CREAMS
89
tf tlmc.
tlologlcal testing : This is particularlyessential fof products
lntiseptics,hormones,vitamins,etc.
IGG
CHAPTER-6
SunscreenPreparations
9l
and
=il aflr, r.,l tt:lls is responsiblefor the dilation of blood vessels
can
proliferation
of the basal cells of the skin for
=; rlerl,r iitrrrrrrlation
leads
only
not
=!..,,,., ,rr lr is also known that excessivesolar radiation
radiatiOn
:. j ,li:.qil,.rtrOil
[o cancgrbUt tO Skin CanceritSelf. EXCeSSiVe
t' .!;,trrr1, vi rami n D pr esentin skin f at and pr oducessom e t oxic
,rlrrrlr irr the long run causethe connectivetissueof the corium
:!=r{,iJ..
r,vlrichis manifestedin a coarseningof the skin relief and
!.. rleErrrr.r,rtt.
F.rl rati rrr ,,1 rvr i ttkl gs.
Sunlight reaching the surface of the earth contains visible r{s (rrrrl
wavelength between 400 mp-740 mp), rays with shorter wavclr.rrlrr,
(280 mp-400 mp) called ultraviolet, and rays with longer wavelt.rrl,rt,
(750 mp- 5300 mp) called infrared. Ultraviolet rays, particularly r,,rt,
wavelength below 320 mtrt,are responsible for most of the therapeutr, ,
well as noxious effects that we attribute to sunlight. The ovcr,,ti
beneficial effects as well as harmful effects of sun rays on the hrrrrr,,,
body depend on the length and frequency of exposure, intensity ot rl,,
sunlight and sensitivity of the individual concerned. Lower the n;i',
length, more the energy of the rays.
These rays stimulateblood circulation in the derma,causethe clcr,I
opment of vitamin D from provitamins, through the activatiorr ,,r
7-dehydrocholesterol,contained in skin fat. Sunshine increasesrl,,
formation of haemoglobin and may also promote a decreasein frr,,,,,i
pressure. These rays are also supposedto shift the redox potential ol rrr,
epidermal tissue towards more intensive reduction, which, in turrr I
believed to lead to an activation of various vitamins, hormones",r,,1
enzymes and a favourable effect on the visceral nervous system. srrn
rays have been used in the treatment of tuberculosis of some glar,l
bones and skins and also in the treatmentof skin psoriasis. Sunligrir,
also known to exert a beneficial influence on the autonomous nerv(,rl
system and reduce the susceptibility to infections. Moderate exposur(,r,,
sunshine produces better psychological feelings, sense of fitness rr,,l
peace of mind. Sun rays cause thickening of the skin by producr,,1,
melanin which increasesthe body's naturalprotectivemechanismagairr,r
sunburns.
On the other hand solar irradiation is damagingin case of excessrr,
exposure. It can have short term and long term adverseeffects. It ni:rr
cause sunburn with symptoms of mild irritation to serious inflammarr,,r,
from a slight erythema to blistering on skin. There can be shiverii,r,
fever and nausea, and sometimes pruritus. Releaseof histamine by tlr,
90
agen t s .
Fl,tettlr,
il4i,il
*l4i,r=l
M t t 'h a n i s m of th e Ski n
l\\'(l lactors are responsible for natural protection of skin
'rillrtllll
alst' iilCreaseSthe
!, | , rrr rrrcl;rninCcntent of the epiCler"lr,iS
of
ef
caLI ges Cessf q; nr 3: 11in
. ,' t," \\' ' r ' rl !l .c Skl, - 1.t i\ l r aeliat i, Dn
I II
92
A HANDBOOK OF COSNII
'
melanin which migrates upward towards stratum corneum and llr( 1"
surface and thus increases the resistance. Suntan prep?rotions "r't
facilitate this excess formation of melanin.
Principle of Effectiveness of Sunscreens
r'1rl
It is a fact that the exposureof unprotectedskin to sunlight 1111
in
sunbttrtt ,,''
produces the desired therapeuticeffect but also results
ihe subsequentpeeling off of the comeal layer is a cosmetic problerl I'
principle, this problem can be treated in different ways.
(l) A protective layer can be provided to the skin that prevcrrl, rl''
UV-rays to reach the skin either by absorbing or by reflecting llr' ,"
Some of the materials used in powders do actually reflect a c('rl''"
amount of UV-rays and are thus incorporated in suntan ptporlrlr,rr';
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide both have such property but the lirrrr,"
is better than the laffer. Preparationsreflecting UV-rays zlrevery t'll"
tive and used widely. However, these preparationshave the disadvrrrrr',;.
of eliminating the beneficial rays along with the harmful ones.
ti
SUNBURN PREPARATIONS
Cosrneticsunbum anctrsuntanpreparationsmay be classifiecl','r,
three groups:
(1) Sunscreeri
preparations
(2) Palliativespreparations
(3) Sinrulativepreparations
93
ll ; \urrscreen Preparations
I lrr':;t:are the most important group of preparations. Sunscreens
=lr,,lhl t.itlrer scatterthe incident light effectively, or they should absorb
rly t.rytlrctlal portion of the sun's radiant energy. Various factors other
tlrrrrrllrt. tluration of exposureare also to be taken into account' For
Flryul'lc, background is important. Snow has a better effect on the
as it reflects a higher proportion of ultraviolet radiationthan
Irrrlrvrtlrr;rl
( )paque powder materials, either used in dry state or in a vehicle,
-r1r{l
,rrll ',t'rvcto scatterthe ultravioletlight falling upon them' Of them zinc
,rrrrlt. i:j rnost effective and superior to titanium dioxide. Other less
r.llr'rtivt: substancesare kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide,
trrlr t.tr Particle size of these substancesin these preparationsis also an
l ri l l )')tl i i l l l factor.
llrc iclcal sunscreenagent should have the following characters( | ) Absorb light preferentialiy over the range of 280 mp-320 mp'
{.') l}e stableto heat, light and perspiration'
( l) lle non-toxic and non-irritant.
(2) To incorporate substancesin preparations to filter the sttrrr.,'by absorbing medium range UV-rays (280 mp-320 mp) but allon rr,g
rays of higher wave lengths to pass. All modern suntan preparatiorr',.r'*
based on this principle arrd contain such substances.
(3) Biologically effective substancescan be used effectively 1o 1".
vent symptoms of inflammation without reduction of tanning. As alt, ',1'
mentionedearlierthat damageof the cells by sunbum liberateshislittrr,',.
in the tissues, attempts have been made to treat it with antihistarrrr,"'
substancesto avoid inflammation. Because of their ?flti-inflamnt;rl,'rr
action, hydrocarbons and fluorocarbons may be useful in treating .rr',
burn but they are not recommended in suntan preparations.
',
l L'CIlSi
94
l
i
ll
L**=:,.
95
8.0 gm
92.0 gm
q.s.
For m ula2
I lornomenthyl salicylate
Mineral oil
Isopropyl myristate
l'crfume
8.0 gm
80.0 gm
12.0 gm
q.s.
Formula 3
lsopropylmyristate
Antiviray
90.0 gm
10.0gm
I h F
;!IIIII.t I( IIl N
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
q.s
q.s
q.s
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
Water
Perfume
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
Formula7
mYristate
lsopropyl
Antiviray
l'oilct spirit
I' crl ume
('ol our (alcohol-soluble)
8.0 gm
7.5 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
Stearic acid
Isopropyl myristate
Abracol PGS (emulsifuing agent)
8.0 gm
1.7 gm
6.0 gm
3.5 gm
0.8 gm
80.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
B. Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
ll
Tween
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropyl myristate
Mineral oil
B. Glycerin
Water
Perfume
For m ula8
l ri l trosolA 1000
Mineral oil
Stearicacid
I'araffin wax
lleeswax
l'ctroleumjelly
S i l i conefluid
l'olyethylene glycol monostearate
5.0 gm
10.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
l'riethanolamine
Water
I)erfume
l)reservative
2.0 gm
60.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula6
A . Antiviray
2.0 gm
10.0gm
88.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
5.00 gm
72.50gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula5
A. Antiviray
q.s'
LOTION TYPE
CREAM TYPE
B. Glycerin
q.s.
Isopropyl myristate may be replaced by isopropyl palmitate. Preparation is simply. by solution technique. Mix the perfume, colour,
preservative with isopropyl myristate and sunscreenagent with oil and
mix both together.
Formula4
A. Homomenthyl salicylate
Non-ionic emulsifier (tween)
Mineral oil
Spermaceti
97
PI{EPARA TI O N S
5.0 gm
7.5 gm
1.0 gm
15.0gm
17.0gm
cE rttl Ii "(
1.0 gm
54.5 gm
q.s.
t-i
98
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMEI'I(:
2.0 gm
10.0gm
80.5 gm
q.s
Glycerin
Ethyl alcohol
Water
Perfume
r h l,
99
STJNSCREEN PREPARATIONS
Formula l0
FiltrosolB
Distilled extractof witch hazel
Propyleneglycol
Water
Perfume
Watersolubledye
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate
5.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
75.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
2.0 gm,
9.0 gm
1.5 gm
5.0 gm
82.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
qnr,,ilivcarea of skin.
Formula 12
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Camphor
Alcohol
Glycerin
Rose water
Methyl parahydroxY benzoate
15.0gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
59.0 gm
q.s.
Mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth paste with the glycertn.
ltilrv ildd suffcient amount of rose water to make a crearn. Dissolve the
ililil|)ltot. in the alcohol and mix the cream and add water to volume. To
g"r ,, lilvourable shadewith calamine a small amount of fenic oxide may
lrr irtltlod.
Formula13
8'0 gm
Zinc oxide
8'0 gm
Preparedcalamine
7'0 gm
glYcol400
Polyethylene
glycol 400 monostearate3'0.gm
Polyethylene
60'0 gm
Lime water
14'0 gm
Water
q.s.
Preservative
tv'lix the powder materialsthoroughly and add polyethyleneglycol
and add lime water to make a cream' with stining.
ltlil ilr()nostearate
IOO
A HANDBOoKoF COSIuETICS
Add further lime water and make volume with water. preservative can
be dissolved in water.
Formula 14
Triethanolamine stearate
Liquid paraffin
Water
Zinc phenosulphonate
4.8 gm
10.0gm
83.2 gm
2.0 gm
A.
F o rmu l a1 5
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Mineral oil/vegetable oil
Emulsiffing wax
Camphor
B. Glycerin
Rose water
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
10.0gm
5.0 gm
25.0gm
5.0 gm
1.0gm
5.0 gm
49.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix the emulsiffing wax and mineral oil and heat it to about 70"C.
Take water preheated ar 70oc and add to the first mixture with continuous stirring to prepare a cream. Dissolve the preservative and camphor
in the glycerin and mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth naste.
Add water to a creamy consistencyand mix with previously prepared
cream.
(3) Simulative Preparations
They are also termed as artificial suntan preparations. There is a
good demand of such preparationsto obtain a suntan. The purpose of
enhanced colour may be to prevent skin damage by absorption of
erythemal radiation or to indicate the well-being of the health. An
artificial suntan normally is obtained by staining of the skin, whatever
may be the purpose. Though several natural materials, like walnut juice,
olive oil extract or cudbear and henna, were used from ancient times for
skin stain, they are not favourable nowadays. Now mainly synthetic
staining materials are used.
(a) Systemic suntan : Some substanceshave been found to increase
pigmentation and thus producing suntan. The need to speed up the rate
rb
ht rN 5('l (l i l l N P R E P AR A TION S
101
the active
af alilr tirrrrrirrgled to try out such substances. Psoralens,
folk-mediEgyptian
ancient
an
rrirEtlllr'nts isolated from ammimajus,
pigmentation and thus tanning'
'iile lr,rvc bcon reported to enhance
has
{ll,rrp',1 tlrt:scalkoxypsoralensand-particularly 8-methoxypsoralen
administraoral
for
formulation,
l,ee,r.,t,'tr:;ivcly studied and a tablet
of
,rf l{ rrrcrhoxypsoralenhave been marketed in USA' Ingestion
11,11i
of
exposure
on
pigmentation
tlt !l lrt,ol this substanceled to increased
rl i fi l rr ' ,rrrrl i gl w
rt i thi n 2 - 4 hour s.
can be obtained by
lhl Slnining preparations : An artificial suntan
like
itintrl, tlt., skin with some chemical substances' Chemicals
produce
to
used
are
etc'
erythrulose
juglone,
lawsone,
,lihr,lr,,ry:rtctone,
I =Frl l l rr'l l l i tnent
stai n.
102
A HANDBOOK OF COSME] I( .
*I r
preparations
suitableemulsifring agentsor surfaceactiveagentsshorr,l
be selected' Also the preparationsshould have suitable
pJrfumesu,,,r
preservatives.
Formula 16
Dihydroxyacetone
Ethanol (95%)
Sorbitol syrup (70%o)
Boric acid powder
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
Allantoin
Water
Perfume
4.0 gm
28.0 gm
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
0.3 gm
60.7 gm
2.0 gm
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
3.0 gm
88.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
A. Mineral oil
10.0gm
3.0 gm
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
57.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
EMULSION TYPE
Formula 19
10.0gm
10.0gm
103
It
l)ihydroxyacetone
l'opyleneglycol
Water
Itorfume
Mcthyl parahYdroxY benzoate
l'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
71.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Fornrula20
Sunscreenagent (oil soluble)
Non-ionic surfactant(tween)
llthylene glycol monostearate
10.0gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
l'ropyleneglycol
I)ihydroxyacetone
Water
I)erfume
Methyl parahYdroxYbenzoate
I'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate
8.0 gm
3.0 gm
74.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
r l ::r I
6 111
lI
.
t,. ,t,.t(.ililinccl
and comparedwith any other standardsutrstance.
tlt l'lrvthemal dosage : It is importantto estimatethe erythemally
. nr r trvt. r''diation or F;-vitons/cm2,transmitted by a suntan preparation.
|,1 (.rvthclnai energy is the prnduct of the soiar energy transrnitted
104
CHAFTER.T
Hair
have
irr strrrl) and design hair preparationsit is very much essentialto
and
body
the
parts
of
l.rr.,rvl.:dgeof hair. Haii is one of the vital
sebawith
along
, ,,n',itlcrcdto be accessorystructure of the integument
r ,'r,rrsglands, sweat glands and nails' They are also known as epidermal
,lr,,u,,tives as they originate from the epidermis during embryological
of
rllvclopment. Hair is an important component of the overall appeal
tlr,' lrtrinan body. Presenceof hair in odd place can make a negative
of a
ellr.t I, whereashair on head is a part of overall attraction and beauty
or
Irrrnurrrbeing. So, people take a lot ofcare of hair to make an impact
i rgrpci tl .
llnlr und Hair Follicles
llclirre puberty the hair is mainly present on the scalp, the eyebrows
places
rrrrrtcyolashes,irrespectiveof sex. At puberty hair grows in other
the
lalr.iixillae, over the pubes in both sexes and in male as beard on
from
lirrc. 'Ihough all rnammals have hair but hair in man is different
nl l rcts.
I lairs can be found nearly all over the surface ofthe skin except over
o,rrrrc.specificsites like the sides and soles of the feet, the palms of the
lrrrntls,the sides of the fingers and toes' the lips, and portions of the
,'rtcrnal genitalia. There are about 50,00'000 hairs on the human body
,rrrrl ()8 per cent of them are on the general body surface and about
l,(x),(x)0-1,20,000are on the head. Population density of normal adult
rt.rrlJrhair is reported to be between 225 hair cm2 on average with
uilrirrble.ung" o? 175-300 hair cm2. The rate of hair growth has been
of
rr'rrtcd to 6e varying with sites. Scalp and chin have highest rate
per
mm
A"27-0'40
p.rowtlr. The rate of growth of scalp hair is between
,t,,y 'l'he growth rate of axillary hair is nearly same' The growth rate
l,,r lrair on Uody surface is about 0'2 mm per day' Though the daily
vilriations of temperature have no effect on the growth rate but the study
there
rrrrlit:utcdhigher growth rate of beard in summer than winter. Also
in
hair
r.; (lnc study report which indicated that the growth of scalp
105
106
A HANDBOoKoF cosMll.nl,
f h,
women is faster than men. The growth rate of scalp hair is more rr,
young and adults and declines in old ase.
Cuticlecovering
hair shaft
Sebaceous
gland
Medulla
Connectivetissue
Glassy
membrane
i l A tR
t0'l
( l ) l lrt: internal root sheath that surrounds the hair root and the
rlct:pcrportion of the shaft.
I lrc cxternal root sheath that extends from skin surface to the
l rrri rrnatri x.
t 't
Externalroot
sheath
Rool
hair plexus
lnternalroot
sheath
| | ) Vcllums hairs : These are the fine peach fuzz hairs located over
r*rrr,
lr ,'l tlrc:body surface.
tl) 'l'crminal hairs: These are heavy, more deeply pigmented,and
*rrFlrnrcscurly. Examplesare hairs on head, including eyebrowsand
F l F l ttl l tr " l
( | ) Vivrissae, the hairs, guarding the entrancesto nostrils and exterrrrl car canals filter the air and help prevent the entry of small
irtst:ctsand foreign Particles.
r.l) Ilrdy hair helps in evaporation of perspiration and draining of
cxtcrnal water from the bodv.
108
A HANDBooK
oF cosMETrcs
(3) Groom the hair with hair conditionersin order to make it elastic
and protect it from deteriorationafter frequentpermanentwaving.
(4) Preservethe hair and its growth by constantattention,using hair
lotions and hair treatrnentpackscontainingactive substances.
*t,
ilAilr
109
TI
I
I
rhr
1i
tiI
lll
CHAPTER-8
ll
lt should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good, man_
rrtrlcabilityand a minimum of fly-away.
l r r ) It should impart a pleasant fragranceto the hair.
{it
I ll
l
i
l
I
I
I
SHAMPOOS
ll0
!-
tl2
A FI,ANDBOOKOF COSMETI(]S
I lr t
llAlR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
I 13
lt4
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
odour and have effect on hair. They also hydrolyze on storage. Occasionally, they are used along with alkyl benzene sulphonatesand alkyl
sulphates. Monoglyceride sulphates, like sulphated monolaurin, are
same as lauryl sulphatesand used in various commercial products.
Turkey red oils form a light coating over hair and are preferably used
in oil shampoos. They have effective cleansing character but very low
foaming effect. The important turkey red oils are sulphonatedcastor oil
and sulphonated olive oil. Normally they are used in combination.
Alkyl phosphates are normally used in low foaming shampoos as
they have low foaming power. They also have milder effects on hair.
Some other anionic surfactantsare also occasionally used in low foaming shampoos,as they are good cleansersbut not a good foaming agent.
I hI
IIAIR CT-EANSING
PREPARATIONS
I l5
cl'l btrrlp and produces a good conditioning effect on the hair. Also
Frrli'rr lryclrolysatescontaining amino acids are incorporated,for condillrrrrlrF.t:f'lcct.
(r') I'carlscent agents : Pearlscent agents are also used to give
=.1e,
r,rl r:onditioning to hair. They brighten the hair. For this purpose
errl'rlrtrrlcd4-methyl coumarins particularly 4-methyl-7-diethylaminoeri rl rrl nri nand 4-m et hyl- 5, 7- dihydr ocoum ar inar e used in 0. 2- lYo
r rrrrrrrrllrtir)n and they act betterat pH between4.5-6. Thesesubstances
r;ll,'r I liglrt. Fluorescentmaterialsare also occasionallyused.
lrl) Sr:questrants : They form a water soluble complex with Caalrl M1iI and thus prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or
+lslnrHcnlsby these two divalent ions present in water. Sometimes
r olr rrrrrr-:;lltdispersing agents are incorporated to disperse the salts
like sodium salt
l,,rnrt'rlby the divalentsCa#, Mg++ etc. Sequestrants
,,1 | | ) l'A (ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid) are used to entrap the
rltcrlcring ions like Ca++ and Mg++ presentin the water.
(c) 'l'hickening agents : To make shampoo preparationsviscous, for
All the above items are not essential for a shampoo but can be
incorporated according to need and the specific purpose of the targeted
population.
(a) Germicides and anti-dandruffagents : Germicides and/or antidandruff agents are incorporated to prevent microbial infection of scalp
and to treat dandruff respectively. Common germicides used in soap can
be used in shampoosalso. There are quaternaryammonium compounds,
such as benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide etc.; some phenol derivatives;
tetramethyl thiuram disulphide, etc. Substancesused as anti-dandruff
agents are selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphide, zinc pyridinium-thiolN-oxide, zinc undecylenate,sodium sulphacetamideetc.
(b)'Conditioning
agents : Conditioning agents are mainly fatty
substanceslike lanolin, oils; natural products like herbal extracts, egg,
amino acids, lecithin and polymeric substances.These substancesgive a
special conditioning effect to the hair. If amino acids are incorporated
into shampoos, after washing amino acid remains deposited on the hair
lh) l'reservatives : Preservativesare very important as most produtr irrc liable to attack by microbes. This leads to breakdown of the
Ir,rlrrtt, odour, discolorationand cloudiness. Water-solublepreservattir", irrc:lo be used and p-hydroxy benzoic acid and its methyl ester,
l'lr,'l\,1rrrcrcuriccompounds,formaldehydemay be used.
I r ptr of Preparations
At't:orclingto the nature of the products the shampoo products cdn be
rlrl,',rlit'tlas follow. The choice of productsis basedon the need of the
ll6
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
user.
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
Powdershampoos
Clear liquid shampoos
Liquid creamor lotion shampoos
Solid cream/gelshampoos
Oil shampoos
Miscellaneousincludinganti-dandruffmedicatedshampoos
General Preparations
They are preparedby simpte mixing process. In powder shampoos
the ingredientsare simply mixed and the perfumeis addedlast.
In caseof clear liquid shampoosthe detergents
are first dissolvedin
half of the water with little heat if necessary. other ingredientsare
addedto other part of the water and then mixed with the first part. The
perfume is addedlast.
Other preparationscan be made by simple mixing in a gradual
manner,taking different ingredientsat different stages.
POWDER.SHAMPOOS
FormulaI
Sodium bicarbonate
Disodium phosphate
Soap powder
Perfume
50.0 gm
200 gm
30.0gm
q.s.
5.0 gm
15.0gm
25.0 gm
5.0 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
20.0 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
I.h I
II^IR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
II7
Water
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
45.0 gm
2.0 gm
53.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula5
Triethanolamine
lauryl sulphate
Lauric isopropanolauride
Water
Perfume
Preservative
60.0 gm
2.0 gm
38.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
Formula6
Sodiumsalt of sulphated
lauryl alcohol ether
Water
Perfume
Preservative
40.0 gm
60.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
I'hc above three preparationscan be made by simple solution. Perfirrrreshould be added last. Preservativeshould be dissolved in water.
LIQUID CREAM SHAMPOOS
Strch shampoos are expected to be mild and emollient in action.
Norr-ionic stearateslike propylene glycol stearate,polyethylene glycol
4tX) distearate together with insoluble metallic stearatesare used for
opncification.
Formula7
Sodium amyl sulphate 30o/o
PEG 400 distearate
Magnesium stearate
Water
Ninol AB2l (thickening agent)
Oleyl alcohol (conditioning agent)
Perfume
25.0
5.0
2.0
68.0
q.s.
q.s.
q.s
gm
gm
gm
gm
118
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
ForrnulaE
Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate
(27o/oactive)
Ethylene glycol monostearate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
40.0 gm
5.0 gm
55.0gm
q.s.
q.s
47.0 gm
20.0 gm
10.5gm
22.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mix water, oleic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate paste and heat to
fitt"(' Slowly add triethanolamine with continuous stirring. Add perf i rrrrc:rl i cr cooi ngto 35oC.
Fo r m u l a 1 2
27.50gm
1.00gm
3.00gm
0.25gm
68.25gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Add whole egg powder or dried egg yolk with small quantity of
water to make a paste. Dilute it with some amount of detergent. Mix
other ingredients with water separately. Add the first mixture to it with
stirring. Add perfume.
SOLID CREAM/GEL SHAMPOOS
These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable
gelling agent such as sodium stearate. Since they have to be stored
in
collapsible tubes orjars, they should have thick consistency.
For m ula l0
119
Formula l l
Th I
20.00gm
1.00gm
2.00 gm
5.00 gm
0.75 gm
71.25gm
q.s.
15.0gm
Miranol
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (40%) 25.0 gm
l0.Q gm
Coconut diethanolamide
1.0 gm
(Methyl
cellulose)
Methocel
gm
49.0
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Colour
Nlrx rniranol, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate and coconut diethanollllrrh. with heat. Add methocel and colour with water to make a viscous
Mix this with the previousmixture with continuousstirring.
1re'pirr:rlion.
A'Ll pt'rlumeafter cooling to 35oC.
OIL SHAMPOOS
t)rl shampoos basically consist of detergents made of sulphonated
ltlq l'hcy have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the
lrrrrrlrrrl,lheydo not form foam. Sulphonatedvegetableoils are made by
lrF,rtrrlt vegetableoils with sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents,
rrtrrlirtr:good detergents.
Formula 13
Sulphonatedolive oil
Sulphonatedcastor oil
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
16.0gm
16.0gm
68.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
120
IhI
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
MISCELLANEOUSSHAMFOOS
These are encompassingshampooscontaining ingredientsincorporatedto achievespecificfunction along with cleansingaction. Shampoos
can contain anti-dandruff agents,other medicinal agentslike vitamins,
amino acids, protein hydrolysate,plant extract,antibapterialagents,etc.
and are expectedto give additional effectsapart from cleansingaction.
I2I
ANTISEPTIC/ANTI-DANDRUFFSHAMPOOS
Formula14
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste)
25.0 gm
Stearicacid
7.0 gm
Sodiumhydroxide
1.0gm
Biosulphurpowder
2.0 gm
Water
65.0 gm
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in a small quality of water with
heating at 75"C. Add biosulphurto the sodium hydroxide solution.
Take sodium lauryl sulphate and stearic acid together and mix with
heatingat about 60oC and then add to the aqueoussolution. Stir and
cool and add perfumeand preservative.
Formula15
Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate
Lauric monoethanolarnide
Hexachlorophane
Water
Perfume
Colour
Prepareby simplemixing process.
II^IR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
0.05 gm
0.10gm
0.10gm
50.00 gm
49.75gm
q.s
14.0gm
1.5gm
0.5 gm
84.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula16
Seleniumdisulphide
2.5 gm
Bentonite
5.0 gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste)
40.0 gm
Water
52.5 gm
Perfume
q.s.
First disperseseleniumdisulphideevenlyin bentonite. Mix sodium
lauryl sulphatewith water with heating and stirring to a ternperatureof
about90oC. Add part of this detergentmirr.to the seleniumdisulphidebentonite dispersionwith stirring to get a homogeneousmixture. Add
I h ',
l t^l l t 'I'ON IC S
123
CHAPTER-9
Hair Tonics
Flair tonics, whether their therapeutic action is real or not, occupy a large
market today. They claim action against a variety of disorders such as
dandruff alopecia or baldness, seborrhoea and the like. Dandruff can be
controlled by using a0.25%osolution of a cationic surfactant or selenium
sulphide or other selectedsubstancesdissolved in water. Seborrhoeacan
be lessened by removing oily secretions by rubbing hair daily with an
alcoholic lotion. Baldness,according to science,cannot be cured by any
extemal application on the head. But massaging on the scalp can
enhance the blood supply to the scalp and the hair growth. But several
tonics claim to grow hair on bald heads. People have suspicion aboul
these products but still demands are there.
Loss of hair is a natural phenomena of the cyclic activity of the hair
follicle.
Germinal matrix becomes inactive during the resting phase
appearing after the growing phase. Eventually hair becomes detached
and moves up the follicle and falls out. This normal loss, if little higher,
makes the people use hair tonics or hair lotions. When this loss is not
replaced by new hair, baldnessstarts. Baldness can occur due to any of
the three reasons hereditary, presence or increase of male sex hormone,
and disease of the scalp. Some dubious products are marketed to cure
baldness.
Another new type of products have got the attention of the people.
They are termed as hair conditioners mainly used by women, to repair
the damage done to the hair by excessive use of other hair treatment
preparationsor shampoos.
An ideal hair tonic should have the following ingredients:
(1) A counter irritant to improve supply of blood to the dermal
papillae.
tl tE l ri l i t
A HANDBoOKoF cosMll l r(
124
125
l tA Il { I"ON IC S
Formula2
2.0 gm
50.0gm
48.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
Betanaphthol
Alcohol (90%)
Water
Glycerine
Perfume
Formula3
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
3.0 gm
0.3 gm
4.0 gm
7.0 gm
83.35gm
0.25 gm
Borax
Quinine arsenite
Glycerine
Formaldehyde
Alcohol
Chloroform
Water
Perfume
Formula4
Chlorothyrnol
Tincture of capsicum
Quinine arsenite
Benzoic acid
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
0.1 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
0.3 gm
40.0 gm
56.3gm
0.2 gm
F'ormula5
Pilocarpine nitrate
Quinine hydrochloride
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.05 gm
2.00 gm
5.00gm
5.00 gm
89.75gm
q.s
q.s.
Preparations
F o rm u l aI
Fclwler's solution
Sulphonated castor oil
Resorcinolmotloacetate
Perfume
Alcohol
r h',
16.00gm
10.00gm
1.50gm
0.25 gm
72.25gm
Fo r m u l a 6
Cholesterol
AlcoholI
Cetomacrogol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.5 gm
25.0 gm
1.0 gm
73.5 grn
q.s.
q.s.
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
126
F o rm u l a7
Calcium pantothenate
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfurne
Preservative
Lactic acid (to adjust pH 5.0-6.0)
0.5 gm
3.0 gm
27.5 gm
69.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
F o rm u l a8
Protein hydrolysate
Glycerine
Calcium pantothenate
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Lactic acid (to ad.iustpH 5.0-6.0)
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.2 gm
25.0gm
71.7gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s
F o rmu l a9
0.2 gm
0.2 gm
20.0 gm
79.6gm
q.s.
Salicl'lic acid
Resorcinol
Oleyl alcohol
Alcohol
Perfunle
F o rmu l al 0
Salicylic acid
Precipitated sulphur
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.2 gm
3.0 gm
0.3 gm
10.0gm
86.5gm
q.s.
q.s.
Conditioners
conditioners are used after shampooing the hair. to render the hair
more lustrous, easy to comb, and fiee tiom static electricity when dry.
The.y are also used to improve dainagedhair. Hair may be damaged by
eNcessive use ()f bleaches and permanent waves. Condit"oners are
usually based on cationic detergentsand fatty materials like lanolin nr
inineral oil
I l r r) IIA IR TON IC S
For m ula11
Stearyl alcohol
Glyceryl monostearate
Sodium chloride
Benzalkoniumchloride
Water
Colour
Perfume
127
0.6 gm
4.2 gm
0.2 gm
1.5 gm
97.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula12
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 5.0 gm
Ethylene glycol monostearate
2.0 gm
Cetyl alcohol
3.0 gm
Water
90.0 gm
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
llair oil : This is widely usedby the peoplefor nourishmentand care
nl h;rir'. Variety of hair oils are available in the market. Some are pure
rrrl likc coconut oil etc. Others normally contain some important ingrerl rt' rrl tl
s i ssol vedi n oil.
l ' :r' nl unti on
As in any other cosmetic products, these products should also be
.r'irlrrrtcd for the contents estimation and their identification. Also some
ltlrcr tcstsare requiredto be done accordingto purpose.
(l) Antisepticproperty: This can be done by in vitro antimicrobiohrp,rt'lrl
testsagainstsome specific organismsusing liquid or solid medium.
()) Stability lesl : Stability of the products and of the ingredients
rnrr',lbc studied particularly effects of heat, light etc. It is well known
llrirl nrost of the phenolic materialswill discolour on exposureto light
'ur(l llrus may make fair hair dark, particularly in the presenceof traces
,rf ;rlkirli or soap. For stability study acceleratedstability study may be
rl nI tt'.
I F III
r29
( l) Permanent colorants
(4) Lighteners or bleaches
CIIAPTRER-10
Hair Colorants
Hair colorants, or hair dyes as they are popularly known, occupy a latge
market today. They are used either to hide gray hair or to change the
colour of the hair by individuals, either at home or at hairdressing
saloon. Colouring of hairs, eyebrows and eyelashes is not new and
practised from earliest antiquity but in crude form. A naturally occurring colouring agent kohl, containing lead sulphide, was used by Egyptian
women to give a black colour to the hair, eyebrows and eyelashes'
Further, several other plants were also identified and used for colouring
of hair, eyebrows and eyelashes. Henna to obtain auburn tints, lysimachia
for i-mparting blond tint, corisson to dye the hair black, are notable
examples. Extract obtained by boiling ophouys, the eyebrow plant, in
oil was used to impart blackness to the hair. Over the time lot of
changes occurred and presently various types of dyes are available to
impart intended colour and shades.
An ideal hair dye should have the following characteristics:
(1) It should not be toxic to the skin or hair and should not impair
the natural gloss and texture of the hair.
(2) It should not be dermatitic sensitizer.
(l) TEMPORARY
COLORANTS
(3) The colour that it imparts to the hair must be stable to air, light,
water and shampoo.
POWDER
Formula I
Certifiedcolour
Tartaric acid
5.0 gm
95.0gm
RINSE SOLUTION
Formula2
Acid dyestuff
Alcohol
Acetic acid (30%)
Water
6.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
74.0 gm
130
For m ula 3
6.0 gm
10.0gm
40.0 gm
44.0 gm
Acid dyestuff
Alcohol
Acetic acid
Water
CRAYON
F o rmu l a4
Colour
Stearic acid
Triethanolamine
Glyceryl monostearate
Beeswax
Paraffin wax
Microcrystalline wax
Coconut diethanolamine
Perfume
6.0 gm
14.0gm
7.0 gm
4.0 gm
42.0 gm
9.0 gm
9.0 gm
7.0 gm
q.s.
131
COLORANTS
Formula5
ammonium
compound
Quatemary
Anionic surfactant
Lactic acid
Alkylolamide
Dyestuff
Water
12.0 gm
9.6 gm
4.8 gm
12"0 gm
1"2 gm
60.4 gm
t*'
I32
A HANDBOOKoF COSMETICS
Dissolve the dye in noryl phenol ethleneoxide condensateand coconut diethanolamine. Dissolve lactic acid and quaternary ammonium
compound separately in water and add this slowly to the dye solution
with stirring.
(3) PERMANENT
COLORANT
133
45.75gm
0.25 gm
90.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
Henna powder
Pyrogallol
Copper sulphate
DARK BROWN
Formula9
10.00 gm
44.00 gm
83.0gm
10.0gm
7.0 gm
Henna powder
Pyrogallol
Copper sulphate
For m ulal0
Hennapowder
Pyrogallol
Coppersulphate
73.0 gm
15.0gm
12.0 gm
CAMOMILE
of Anthemis nobilis and Matricania
flowers
the
of
llris consists
,lr,rlrorrrillae. The active ingredient is 1'3,4-trihydroxyflavone or
aagrr;4t'nirr.
The flower heads are applied in the form of a paste in hot
134
A HANDBOoK
oF cosMur.t(:
water along with kaolin. It may also be used as hair brightening rins.',,
A typical formula isFormula I I
Camomile flowers
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
F o rm u l a1 2
Powdered henna leaves
Powdered camomile flowers
Pyrogallic acid
Citric acid
Alcohol
Glycerine
Water
10.00gm
44.00gm
45.75gm
0.25 gm
18.200gm
5.820gm
0.150gm
0.073gm
2.200 gm
0.730gm
78.827gm
Precipitatedsulphur
Lead acetate
Glycerine
Water
1.3 gm
1.6gm
9.6 gm
87.5 gm
't
I h t0 ilAil( Cot_oRANTS
135
Formula 14
50.0gm
50.0 gm
lI
6.0 gm
94.0 gm
q.s.
Sodium thiosulphate
Water
Ammonium hydroxide
lr') Silver dyes: The hair is firsttreated with an aqueousammoniar',rl',,rlrrli.rrof silver nitrate. After a short while, a solution of pyrogallol
ta rr;,|'lrt'tl 'fhe proportion of silver may be reducedfor lighter shades.
'{ F,r,','rrislr
black colour is produced"which stainsskin too.
For m ulalS
S ol uti on 1
Silver nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Water
Ammonium hydroxide
S ol uti on2
Pyrogallol
Alcohol
Water
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
To 100.0gm
q.s.
4.0 gm
46.0 gm
50.0gm
0.5 gm
1.5 gm
8.0 gm
10.0grn
80.0gm
q.s.
Formula 17
Lead acetate
Sodium thiosuiphate
Propylene glycol
Water
0.6 gm
1.2 gm
10.0gm
88.2 gm
Formula 18
Precipitatedsulphur
Lead sulphatc
Propylene glyc"oi
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
10.0gm
Alcohol
Water
137
r fl l0 ll^tR COLORANTS
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI( :
136
10.0gm
77.0 gm
Mrl cri l l s
llrotrgh permanganatesolution is recommended for bleaching pur1,,,'.('l)ul application of it can cause serious damage to the hair if any
rrrr'.trrkc
is made in application. Alkaline hydrogenperoxide solution is
fn"rc l)rcl'crred. For domestic use 3-4Yoperoxide solution is suggested
lrut lol professional application 5-60losolution can be used for faster
lrlt'rrr'lring"Further higher concentrationscan damage the hair. Norlrrrllv suitable stabilizing agents, such as acetanilide, diluted acids,
rilililil)ilir.trIbisulphate are incorporated in hydrogen peroxide solution to
'itrrlrrlizcit. As presenceof various metals causesdamage to the hair,
r.rlrc$lcring agent EDTA may also be added to the preparation. Choleslrrol. lurrolin derivatives, fatty alcohols or other hair conditioning
sulr.,tlrrrccs
are incorporatedin the hydrogenperoxide solution to have a
hetterappearanceofthe hair.
llclirre application, ammonia is added for faster degradation of per,rrr,lc irnd better bleaching effect. This also softens the hair. As
lrl,'rrr'lrr:d
hair never regains colour, so in subsequentbleaching only
frr'.,lrlygrown hair is requiredto be bleached.
Formula 19
Ammonium bicarbonate
Ammonium bisulphate
Light magnesium carbonate
Lisht calcinm carbonate
20.0 gm
10.0gm
50.0gm
20.0 grn
*l
138
A T]ANDBOOKOF COSMETICSJ
Formula20
Ammonium persulphate
Ammonium bicarbonate
Ammonlum bisulphate
Sodium perborate monohydrate
Calcium carbonate (light)
Magnesium silicate
I h lll
Formula24
Hydrogen peroxide solution
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride
Water
pH to be adjusted to
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.5 gm
54.5gm
1.0 gm
19.0gm
5.5
l'rkcy red oil can be used to remove dyes and is also advantageous
ea !ililrl'other additivescan also be incorporatedto help in removal of
45.4gm
18.3gm
22.7 gm
13.6gm
.,'q.s.
r ul l l l l
Formula22(ii)
In hydrogen peroxide solution for preparation (i) dissolve the perfume in alcohol and add oleic acid. N{ix thoroughly. Add ammonium
hydroxide solution slowly with continuous stirring. Finally add triethanolamine.
l'ormula 23
2.CIgm
A. Carbopol 9-lzl
Hydrogen peroxide solution (acid stabilized) 88.0 grn
B. Triethanolsamine solution (109/oin rvater)
80.0 gm
l)r,isolvethe secondcomponentin water. Then add hydrogenperoxIrl erol rrti orrsl ow l y. Adjust pH t o 5. 5.
Formula22(i)
Oleic acid
Alcohol
Ammonium hydroxide solution
Triethanolamine
Perfume
139
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.5 gm
20.0 gm
51.5gm
Formula2tr
persulphate
Ammonium
Sodium percarbonate
Ammonium bicarbonate
Sodium perborate monohydrate
Magnesium carbonate (light)
l l ^l l { C OLOR A N TS
10.0 grn
E-*
140
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S
Evaluation
of skin or can producetoxit
As hair colorantscan causesensitization
effects, it is imperativeto do testsfor this apart from normal quality test
for ingredientsand their quantity.
(l) Sensitizationtest : This can be done on the animal skin by
applyingdyestuffor the preparationand observingthe effecton the skin.
studycan be doneof the relatedtissuesor
histopathological
lf necessary,
cells when applied.
to evaluatethc
(2) Long-term toxic effect : This is also necessary
long-termeffect. This can also be doneon animal.
CHAPTER-11
Hair GroomingAids
llnir is an important componentof overall appearanceof a person
rvlrcthcra man or woman. Howeverclean or well-dressedthe person
nrrry be, untidy hair will give a messyoverall impression. So, hair
groorningaids are importantgroup of cosmeticsand are usedby both
rrrcrrand women to keep the hair in order for good looking and also to
t rrlrunce
overallappearance.Settingor controlof hair is moreimportant
l() lrany men than the glossyhair. Men'sproductsare mainly basedon
rrrt: of oils, fatty materialsor resins. Women'semphasisis on both
rcrprirements.
Variousproductsare marketedas hair grooming aids. They include
lrrilliantines,hair oils, hair creams,hair dressings,hair lacquersor
iprlys. hair lotions. Their compositions
vary but basicallythey are used
krr settingof hair and improvethe appearance.They can be all called as
preparations.
rler:rlrative
Somehair grooming aids are very similar to emollient preparations
nnd producenatural appearanceand gloss by compensatingthe loss of
wnlcr and fat in the hair shaft. Other preparationsadditionally contain
lix"'r,biologicalsubstances
that affectthe hair papillae,antisepticagents.
I'rcparations
suchas settinglotionssoftenthe hair and fix it in position
rrs il is dressed. Many of the commercialproductshave multiple
lrrrtr:tions.
Various hpir grooming aids which are discussedin this chapterare
r,ntegorized
accordingto their compositions.
(l) Brilliantinesand hair oil
(2) Hair setting lotions
(3) Hair creams
(4) Hair lacquersor sprays
l4l
142
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t h ||
l l ^l l tC ;R OOMI N GA ID S
143
Formula 2
Carnauba wax
Wheat germ oil
Petroleumjelly
Paraffin wax
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
These products are mainly based on wax and oils. Depending on thc
consistency they may be classified into the following products(a) Hard : Stick brilliantine
(b) Soft : Brilliantine
(c) Liquid: Hair oils, liquid brilliantine
These preparationscompletely adhere to the hair surface and hold the
hair in position and make them lustrous. The oily or waxy matenals,
which are used, make the hairs tacky and surroundings of one hair
adhere with that of other hairs and keep the hair down by increased
weight of adhering materials. They can also act by covering the hair by
thin layer and thus neutralizing the electrostatic charges generated on
hair by shampooing and/or combing which makes a repulsion among
hairs and makes them look ruffled. More viscous the preparation, the
fixative effect will be more. However, too tacky preparationswill also
attract dirt and dust. Thus the preparationsshould be just tacky enough
to hold the hairs.
Substanceswhich are used to get tackinessare petrolatum,beesw.ar,
animal fats, castor oil, coconut oil, high viscosity rnineraloils. Incclrporation of paraffin waxes, spermaceti,low-viscosity mineral oils, isopropyi
myristate lowers the tackiness.
Originally preparationscontaining mineral oils and wuxes were termed
brilliantine and those with animal and vegetable fats were called as
pomeds. This differentiation is no more used presently.
Application of the oily material should be in thin layer and of even
nature to get the glossiness. Suitable oil soluble perfume should be
added. Preservativesand antioxidants are also required to incorporate,
particularly in preparationscontaining vegetable nr animal oils. Colour
can also be added optionally.
SOLID BRILLIANTINE
5.0 gm
20.0 gm
70.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l\4clt lhe waxes at about 70oC and add oil and jelly. Mix thoroughly.
Arl,l cokrur, perfume and preservativeafter cooling.
BRILLIANTINE
Formula 3
Isopropyl myristate
Lanolin
Mineral oil
Sunflower oil
Perfume
Colour
Antioxidant
Preservative
24.0 gm
1.0 gm
55.0gm
20.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Ir4clt all oils and waxes together at 70oC and mix well.
lrrnrc,colour, preservative,antioxidant after cooling.
1rr.r
Add
IIAIR OILS
Formula4
Mineral oil
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
Preservative
85.0gm
15.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
F'ormula I
Petroleumjelly
Paraffin wax
Perfume
Preservative
90.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Melt the wax. Add ielly and mix it at about 70"C. Add perfume and
preseruativeafter cooling.
Fo r m u l a .5
Mineral oil
Acetoglyceride
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
Preservative
75.0gm
10.0gm
15.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix all the ingredients together. Add perfumeand preservative
and
l i l tcr.
t lr ll
145
AIDS
tlAlR GROOMING
A IIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t44
SPIRIT BRILI,IANTINE
F o rmu l a6
Isopropylmyristate
Cetyl alcohol
Toilet spirit
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
20.0 gm
2.0 gm
78.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
1.2 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
83.8gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Tragacanth
Alcohol
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
Formula8
Tragacanth
Glycerine
Watersolublelanolin
Cholesterol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
1.5 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
91.4 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l)issolve the preservative in glycerine. Add cholesterol and tragar ililltt to prepare a smooth paste. Mix water, water-soluble lanolin and
with
lrrrlrrrnc separately. Add this mixture to the tragacanth mixture
vigorousstining.
Formula9
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone
Carboxy vinyl polymer
Triethanolamine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
2.00 gm
0.60 gm
0.75 gm
10.00gm
86.65gm
q.s.
q.s.
146
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
( lr ll
Formula10
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone: Vinyl acetate
copolymer(60:40) 1.00gm
Isopropylmyristate
0.15 gm
Alcohol
70.00gm
Water
29.35gm
Perfume
q.s.
Dissolvethe copolymerin the alcoholwith stining. Add the isopropyl myristate and perfume. Then slowly add the water with constanl
stirring.
Perfume
q.s.
q.s
Dissolve the resin in alcohol with stirring. Add the isopropyl alcohol
and diethyl phthalate. Add the perfume. Then add glycerine and water
with stirring.
Oil-in-water type creams are less greasy and when applied make the
lrair wctty as water is continuous phase. When water gets evapoqatedthe
t'il cornes in contact with hair. They can be easily diluted with water
rn(l can be well distributed on hair by wet comb. These preparationscan
I'r'trradewith very less amount of oil. Stearic acid and beeswaxare used
nr erttulsi$ing agent. But these creams make the hair dull as water is
rol1lil1uestphase and oil is a dispersedphase. But fixative property is
good. These creams also contain humectant to prevent fast drying of
wrrlcr. Glossy effect appears only after evaporation of water. Oil-inrvnlcr creams can also be made by triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl
rrrorrostearate,
etc. In all these creams perfumes, colours and preservaItvcs are also incorporated.
Formula 12
Isopropylpalmitate
Tween20
O-phenylphenol
Alcohol (95%)
Water
Perfume
Colour
147
F o rmu l a1 l
Dimethyl hydantoin-formaldehyderesin 2.0 gm
Alcohol
70.0 gm
Isopropyl alcohol
5.0 gm
Diethyl phthalate
1.0 gm
Glycerine
0.5 gm
Water
21.5 sm
Dye
llAlR GROOMING
AIDS
6.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
49.9 gm
41.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
t _.f.
3.5 gm
37.5 gm
1.0 gm
58.0 gm
148
A H,ANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
q.s.
q.s.
Perfume
Preservative
4.0 gm
37.5 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
51.5gm
q.s.
q.s
4.0 gm
32.5 gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
58.5 gm
q.s
q.s.
Melt hrst three componentsat about 70oC and add borax and sorbitan sesquioleateand mix properly. Mix borax with water, heat it and
add slowly with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring and add perfume when cooledto 40"C.
OIL-IN-WATER
CREAM
Formula 16
Mineral oil
Stearicacid
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
149
t]AIR CROOMINGAIDS
Formulal7
35.5gm
Mineraloil
2.5 gm
Stearicacid
2.0 gm
Glyceryl monostearate
4.5 gm
Propyleneglycol
1.0gm
Triethanolamine
gm
54.5
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
llcnt stearic acid and mineral oil togetherat about 70"C' Mix
propyleneglycol (with dissolvedpreservative),
glyrcryl monostearate,
and water and heat it to same70oC and mix with first
trietlurrrolamine
ilrre with continuousstining. Cool slowly and add perfumewhen the
is at about40"C.
tFrul)erature
Formulalt
Formula15
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Petroleumjelly
Sorbitansesquioleate
Borax
Water
Perfume
Preservative
I h II
45.0 gm
3.5 gm
1.5 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70oC and add triethanolamine.
Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume.
25.0 gm
Lanolin
1.0 gm
alcohol
Cetyl
gm
9.0
monostearate
Glyceryl
gm
62.0
Water
gm
3.0
Glycerine
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
lleut lanolin and cetyl alcoholat 70oC. Take glyceryl monostearate
lrrtl waterand alsoheatto 70"C. Add the aqueousmixture with lanolin
witlr continuousstirring. Cool and add perfume. Preservativecan be
rlirrolvedin glyoerineand mix to the preparedcream.
(4) HAIR LACQUERS OR SPRAYS
llair tacquersor sprays are used to hold the hair setting firmly,
rlar:inlly in women,in shapeand control the looseendswithout disturblirg the good appearance. These products make the hair dry very
rlrrickly. As lotions have water and leave the hair damp, lacquersor
rPruys have advantageover them due to their quick drying. Initial
of
;rroductswere not much good and over the years a good amount
t.lrangehas occuned. Some lacquers are nearly same as gum-based
appear;rreparationsas film forming substancesare also present. The
different
a
them
perfumes
make
of
choice
and
use
characteristics,
ltco,
product. They mainly contain a film former in a suitable vehicle and
rlong with a plasticizeror modifier.
150
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone
Dimethyl phthalate
Silicon
Alcohol
Perfume
2.50 gm
2.00 gm
0.05 gm
95"45gm
q.s.
r h ll
l5l
AIDS
IIAIRGROOMING
Formula20
resin
formaldehyde
hydantoin
Dimethyl
(25%
alcohol)
in
isopropyl
solution
Shellac
Silicone fluid
Isopropyl myristate
Alcohol
Perfume
5.0
0.5
0.1
0.4
94.0
q.s.
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
Formula21
(60:a0)
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone/Vinylacetate
Dimethylphthalate
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Formula22
Shellac
Castor oil
Diethyl phthalate
Alcohol
Perfume
By simple solution process.
2.50 gm
0.25 gm
50.00 grn
47.25 gm
q.s.
4.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.2 gm
95.6 gm
q.s.
r h ll
CHAPTER-12
Hair Wavers,Curlers
and Straighteners
It is a natural desire for all, specially women, to have a beautiful antl
attractive curly or wavy hair. It is well known that a method ol
permanent hair waving was practised by early Egyptian women. Thc
method was used to be winding a mesh on a cane stick, covering it with
liquid mud and allorving it to bake dry in the sun. Over the years thc
method has been modified to make the curling long-lasting, better anrl
faster. As, always, the curling hair is more attractive than straight hair
and also can be arranged in further attractive styles. There is a demantl
for techniques or methods for making hair curling or waving. To makr'
wigs of permanent curly hair, wig-makers used to wound hair on u
curling rod and immersed it in boiling water or steam for a few hours. Il
borax or mild alkali was added to the hot water the time of immersiorr
could be less. Early workers who pioneered in this area are Charles
Nessler, E. Fredric and Eugene Suter who suggestedchemicals to add in
boiling water to achieve curly hair.
Principle of Action
The structure of cortex gives the hair the definite form and it, mainly.
consists of long parallel polypeptide chains connectedby cross linkages
The chains are, normally, folded and in dry condition it cannot bc
stretched much. But, in wet condition they can be stretched up to l00ol,
or even more. Permanentwaving consists of the following stages.
(1) Differential stretching of the hair : Hair is thoroughly wetted.
then rolled and the polypeptide chains are extended with variable forcc
and thus a tension is created on linkages.
(2) Disruption of the cross-linkages : Most of the cross-linkages
are broken chemically and the tension is thus relaxed.
(3) Re-establishment of cross-linkage : Then the cross-linkagesart:
restored in such a way that the hair is no longer trained in its new rolled
form by drying or cooling of the hair or by removing all chemicals.
t52
AND STRAIGHTENERS
IIAIRWAMRS. CURLERS
153
1.0 gm
0.5 Gm
98.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula2
Sodiumcarbonate,anhydrous
Alginic acid
Rosewater
Perfume
Preservative
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
91.0 Gm
q.s.
q.s.
154
I lr l/
A IIANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
155
over the years the method has been changed and chemical agents are
being utilized in place of mud. But the basic principle remains the
same. Wet hair can be stretched to 100%oor more and soft hair, made by
chemical treatment, can be waved permanently. In these preparations,
the main ingredient is water which vaporizes when the hair is heated.
Formula 3
Ammoniumhydroxide
Sodiumcarbonate
Potassiumsulphite
Water
Perfume
As mentioned in the earlier preparationswater can disrupt the hydrogen bond and salt linkages but is unable to disrupt disulphide or amide
linkages, some chemical agents are incorporated in hot-wave preparations to achieve the disruption of the latter. Bases such as sodium and
potassium hydroxides and carbonates as well as borax were preferred
earlier. But they have the problem that they fuse with hair and form a
hard and brittle cuticle with keratin. So, they were replaced by ammonia
which evaporates while drying and leaves no residue. But ammonia
imparts an unpleasant odour and mostly evaporates before complete
swelling and gives the hair a reddish tint. Then ammonia was combined
or completely replaced with less volatile bases like mono/or triethanolamine,or morpholine.
20.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
74.0 gm
q.s.
0.25gm
0.45 gm
2.65 gm
90.65gm
q.s.
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.6 gm
3.0 gm
1.5 gm
88.9gm
q.s.
Nlrr llrst four components with part of water. Take turkey red oil
dlrl ;r1'rlirrrreand mix with some amount of water and mix with first
= rr111111v11,
Make vol um e.
It
,{prr,l lrom using electrical heating or preheatedrods, chemical heatirE! (,rtr lic also used in permanentwaving. In this method the heat is
grft'rirt.tl by reacting exothermic materials after application of chemir al', rrlolrgwith a moisteningmedium.
(c) A wet strip soaked with suitable solution is wound over the
hair.
(rt) The whole set is heated and dried by encasing in a suitable
electrical heater or by other means"
I lrr r'lrcrnic'ally
heatingmethod was developedlong back in England
in lr,'l
At early stage of the developmentof this method quicklime
rrer',ili('(l rvilll a rnoisteningagent such as ammonium sulphate,agar or
*tilrr,ilr:r Alicrrwardsseveral other agents have been deveioped and
t=e-
156
A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
they include active agents like aluminium and its chloride and sulphate,
barium salts, ammonium salts of organic acids, copper carbonate,copper
nitrate, iron frllings, etc.
(3) Cold waving procedures : In cold waving procedure, a permanent waving can be achieved by making new permanent cross-linkages
in hair without applying heat. This method has partly replaced hot
waving method in several places.
WAVING SOLUTIONS
Formula5
Thioglycollic acid
Ammonia (35%ow/w)
Water
Perfume
6.62 gm
2.ll gm
91.27gm
q.s.
t57
Formula7
Thioglycollic acid
Monoethanolamine
Ammonia (35o/ow/w)
Water
Perfume
7.0 gm
8.0 gm
2.0 gm
83.0 gm
q.s.
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
24I gm
(s)Hair is removed lrom the hair curlers and once aeain washed
with neutralizingsolution.
(6) Finally the hair is rinsedoff.
OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
I58
I h L'
159
NEUTRALIZINGLOTIONS
Formula9
26.4 gm
Hydrogenperoxide
1.2 gm
Citric acid
gm
2.8
lauryl
ether
Polyoxyethylene
gm
0.4
Rosin opacifier
gm
69.2
Water
F o rm u l a1 0
Sodium bromate
Polyglycol 400 laurate
Diglycol stearate
Glyceryl monostearate
Sodium cetyl sulphate
Polyglycol 400
Water
20.0 gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
2.5 gm
0.5 gm
60.0 gm
Atmospheric Oxidation
In this method the hair is reduced by the same wa)' g;; inentioned in
earlier topic by using alkaline thioglyccllic acid but the hair is kept for
sel,/ersihcurs in curlcrs ani.laiiowed for atmosphericoxidation' Then the
hair is reieaseclfrom the curlers and washed and set as desired. As it is
kept for 5 hcurs, it can only be used at home, but the hair is treated with
sl l 'tl rt.
less reagents.
{ l) llot comb-pressing oil methods : In this method, first petrolrrrrrrjclly is applied to straightenthe hair and then eombed using a hot
lrrlirl A rnixture of,petrolatum and paraffin can also be used. Petrolarrrr :lr:ts as a heat transfer agent between hot metal and hair. After
rhrirrglhc hot comb, the hair is washedand dried. The method is not a
l rettni l l terlone.
tt
Special Methods
Different and special techniques and accessoriesare used to achieve
cold-waving and are mentioned below:-(1) Tepid warntr air wave : In this method the thioglycollate treatrnent is clone at slightly elevated temperature for faster and better result.
Using elevatecltemperature will also reduce the required concentration
of thioglycolhrte. 'fhe heating can be done by electrical process or by
hood dryer.
(2) Itoller and pire perm$ : \\rhen the curling is intended fbr a short
time, say f,ervweeks, this modifiectrrnethod can be very usefill. The hair
can be r,vorrndover large diameter(l%") roller curlers or over ordinary
hairpins tcl make curls of 1" in cliameter. .Tlren the applicatinn of
t=rl
160
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICTi
CHAPTER-13
Hair Removers
llerrrrvtl of superfluoushair has been in practice from the ancient
pariod. Egyptiandancersand courtiers,thousandsofyears ago, knew
Iruw kr remove hair growth on arrns and legs. Shaving by men,
Ir,lrnbly, startedmuch before that. one of the earliest substances
tep'rlcd to be used by the Egyptian dancersfor removal of unwanted
hrrtris rhusma,amixture of quicklimeand arsenicalpyritesin aratio of
I .t l' powder form this was mixed with aqueousalkali before use.
Arrrlhersubstance
reportedto be usedfor the samepurposewasorpiment
whirrlris arsenictrisulphide.Anothertechniquewhich wasp'sed,in early
ql'ges, fbr removal of unwantedhair was rubbing
the skin surfacewith
Iilllnt(:cstone.
I'rirctice of hair removal by men is mainly removal of facial hair,
;rnrlly .r totally. This is termed as shaving and preparationsfor this will
I'r. discussedin the subsequentchapter (Shaving preparations).
w<lmen use various techniques and substancesto remove hair from
!lepilatories
"s
l)cpilatories are the preparationsused for degradationofthe superfluhair chemically without affecting the skin, Depilatory removes thc
l6l
162
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S
hair at the neck of the hair follicle and thus has advantage over razor
shaver which removes hair on a level with the surface of the epidermis.
Razor shaven hair growth is thus notiieable sooner than depilatory
removal.
As mentioned in the introduction, the first depilatory is reportedto bc
rhusma used by the Egyptian dancers. The depilatories act by degrading
the hair keratin. As it is known that keratin is sensitive to the action ol'
strongly alkaline aqueous solutions and reducing agents, mbst of the
depilatories consist of such agents. The alkaline reducing agents cause
the swelling of the hair fibres and break the cystine bridges between
adjacent polypeptide chains as a first step to the complete degradationol'
the hair.
As stratum corneum also contains keratin, depilatories may cause
local damage of the skin by also affecting skin keratin when applied for
hair removal. This effect can be avoided or minimized by properly
formulating with correct choice of agents in proper concentration and
applying it for a short period of time. So, the preparationshould be such
that it can preferentially and rapidly reacts with hair for selective degradation of hair keratin without damaging the skin.
So, the desirable charactersof an ideal depilatory preparation are(l) Selectivein action
(2) Efficient and rapid action in few minutes
(3) Non-toxic and non-allergic to the skin
(4) Odourless
(5) Easy to apply
(6) Stable
(7) Non-staining to clothing
Ingredients
Different substancesare used for removal of hair in depilatory preparations. Apart from the active component of depilatory agent and water
as vehicle, the preparations also contain humectants such as glycerine,
propylene glycol; thickening agents to enhancethe viscosity; surfactants
to emulsiff incorporated fat, if any. Also polyethylene grycors are used
to form a film on the skin. optionally, sometimes, astringents, rocal
anaestheticsor mucins and inert powders are also incorporated.
(l) Inorganic sulphides : First depilatory reported, rhusma, contained arsenic trisulphide (As2S3). It is no more used as it can be
dangerous to skin, particularly the skin not in good condition. The
sulphides of sodium, calcium, strontium and barium are there for use as
t lr lr
l l ^l l r R E MO VERS
163
164
A HANDBoOK
oF coSMETtCs
Strontiumsulphide
Talc
Methyl cellulose
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
15.0gm
42.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula 2
Strontium sulphide
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Lime water
Perfume
Preservative
30.0 gm
3.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
42.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
r h ll
165
l l ^ I t t R L M O V ER S
3
Formula
Thioglycollic acid(90%)
Hydratedlime
Calcium carbonate (precipitated)
Stearyl alcohol
Sulphonatedstearyl alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
4.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
6.0 gm
0.6 gm
59.4 gm
q.s.
q.s
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
r6 8
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
CIIAPTER-14
Shaving Preparations
Itr tllc preceding chapter preparationsand methods adopted for removal
rrf rrrrwantedhair have been discussed. As shaving creams are different
Irr rr.,r'urrd in nature, it is discussedseparatelyin this chapter.
I lrcsc are widely used men's cosmetic products. Shaving preparatllr\ nlay be divided, basically, into two groups( I ) Preparationsused before shaving
(2) Preparations used after shaving
(l) PREPARATIONS
170
A FTANDBooK
oF cosMErrcs
I h I'I SIIAVING
PREPARATIONS
I71
SOAPBAR
FormulaI
Stearicacid
Coconutoil
Causticpotash
Causticsoda
Water
Sodiumdioxystearate
(50%)
Sorbitalliquid
Glycerol
Perfume
Preservative
49.00gm
13.00gm
22.00gm
12.00gm
1.25gm
0.75 gm
1.25gm
0.75 gm
q.s.
q.s.
SOAPCREAM
Formula2
n. Stearicacid
Coconutoil
Palmkerneloil
ll Potassium
hydroxide
Sodiumhydroxide
30.0gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.5 gm
173
t tr l4 lillAVING PREPARATIONS
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
172
Giycerine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
,l
0.0 gm
36.5 8m
q.s.
q.s.
Formula5
Glycerol monostearate
Stearic acid
Glycerine
Mineral oil
Water
Perfume
Preservative
14.0gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
70.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
38.0gm
2.0 gm
6.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.6 gm
0.3 gm
46.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
PO\1'I}8trT5
liorrmul;r6
Magnesium stearate
Kaolirr
Talc
Perfume
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
fi8.0 5irrt
q.s.
174
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Formula 7
Zinc stearate
7.0 gm
6.0 gm
87.0 gm
q.s.
Kaolin
Talc
Perfume
I h,I4
SIIAVING PREPARATIONS
LOTIONS
Formula10
Formula8
Isopropyl myristate
Alcohol
Perfume
12.0gm
88.0gm
q.s
Formula9
Isopropyl myristate
Menthol
Zinc phenosulphonate
Alcohol
Perfume
12.00gm
0.05gm
0.10gm
87.85gm
q.s.
(2} PREPARATIONS
t75
USED AFTERSHAVING
These are another group of shaving preparationswidely used. Whatever may be the method of shaving there may be some irritation, minor
damage to skin or cuts. The extent depends on method, instrument and
preparations used for shaving. To overcome or treat these problems
various preparations are used and they are termed as after-shave preparations.
The after-shave preparationsare basically applied to cool and refresh
the skin, to overcome irritation on the skin, to neutralize the soreness,to
disinfect or heal the skin damage or cut. They are used in the form of
lotions, creams or powders.
The lotions are clear solutions containing 25 ta 50o/oalcohol. Additionally they may also contain antiseptic, ernollient, haemostyptic
substances. Also they may contain extract of witchhazel, menthol,
glycerine, boric acid, alum, potassium oxyquinoline sulphate and chloroform. If alcohol content is less, the perfume should be water soluble or
soluble in less concentrations of alcohol. Alternatively solubilizing
agents may be used.
Most of the lotions are used as after-shavepreparations. po*.ders are
also used to sorne extent but use of creams is comparatively less.
Toilet spirit
Glycerine
Cetrimide
Water
Perfume
50.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
46.9 gm
q.s.
Formulall
Alum
Glycerine
Menthol
Witchhazelextract
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
2.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
25.0 gm
25.0 gm
44.9 gm
q.s.
Formula12
Glycerine
Chlorhexidinediacetate
Menthol
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
2.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.1 gm
40.0 gm
57.7gm
q.s.
Formula13
Carbopol-934
Menthol
Alcohol
Di-isopropanolamine
Water
Perfume
1.0 gm
0.1 gm
45.0 gm
0.8 gm
53.1gm
q.s.
Formula14
Glyceryl monostearate
Stearicacid
12.0gm
5.0 gm
t76
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICIi
Isopropylmyristate
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
,
'r
2.0 gm
5'o gm
76.0 gm
q.s"
POWDERS
Formula 15
Boric acid
Magnesium stearate
Talc
Perfume
F o rmu l a1 6
Calcium carbonate
Zinc stearate
Kaolin
Boric acid
Chlorhexidine diacetate
Talc
Perfume
3.0 gm
4.0 gm
93.0 gm
q.s.
5.0 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
77.5 gm
q.s.
Evaluation
As in any other products, shaving preparations and after-shave preparations should also be evaluated for quality and performance.
Identification of various ingredients and their quantitative estimation
should be done by suitable methods. Apart from these some other tests
also are to be carried out for these products.
(A) For Shaving Preparations(l) Determination of free caustic alkali : As free alkali can damage the skin, it is necessary to determine it. It can be done by any
suitable method.
(2) Determination of potash soap : As it is necessarythat 50% of
the alkali used for saponification be potash, it is also required to estimate
it.
(3) Determination of total free acids : It is also necessary tb
detennine the free fatty acids present in the soaps or creams. The titre of
total fatty acids is required to be determined by suitable means.
(4) Determination of total fatty materials : As a minimum amount
of total fatty materials must be preSent in different shaving preparations
I lr l4
S l l A V l N (i P RE P A R A TION S
177
and
l,,r ,iul)plctnentingoils to the skin, this is also to be checked
rl cl r'ttti
r ttcd.
(5) loam formation : For foam producing preparations formation
rrf loiilrr, the nature and stability of foam should be studied and coml,,rrr.rlwith the standard.
((r) Skin sensitization test : This is also important as these preparail,ril,,,(luc to presenceof some agents,can cause skin sensitization'
physical stability of
t7) Stability of the creams: This is to study
study'
stability
tlr,' procluctsby various means or accelerated
tlll l"or Aftershave Lotions1| )A nti septi cpr oper t y: Ast hesepr epar at ionscont ainant isept ics,
ir r'. ncccssaryto evaluate antiseptic property by in-vitro test'
(2)D etermi nat ionof a|coholcont ent : Thiscanbedet er m inedby
,ilr\ silitable method. As these preparationscontain alcohol it is necesrrrry lo estimatethe alcohol content.
(.1) Dermatological safety : The products should not have effect on
skin'
ulrrr. So, suitable test should be carried out to study the effect on
llris can be done on animal skin.
I h rr
CHAPTER-15
Nail
NAIL
179
Eponychium
Epidermis
Fig l5.l
Dermis
Schematicstructureof nail
1l ) (' omposi ti on
'l hc nails are also made of hard keratin like hair. The protein
sltrtelrrrccontains a high proportion of sulphur-rich amino acid cystine
rvltlt srnall proportion of methionone, tyrosine, lysine, and histidine. The
rrnil is composed of three layers, a soft lower layer called central nail,
rvitlr hard keratin forming the intermediate layer, and the outer layer
r nffcd dorsal nail. The nail also contains 12 to l4%o water and fattv
rrrnlerials
mainly of cholesterol.
'l'hc knowledge of composition suggeststhat the manicure preparaliotts should possibly avoid use of materials that remove natural fat or
rryrlcr-solublesubstancesas these could damage the lattice-like structure
ul lruil and may hasten the splitting or breaking. Sometimes fatty
rrrnlerialsare incorporated in manicure preparationsto supplementthem.
t78
180
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(.S
thl l
N A IL
l8l
Iilrrg.iin which the nail folds become red and swollen and mostly occurs
11 wornen whose hands are constantly in contact with w.ater, soaps and
rlelirg,cnts.
lrrl-octionof fungus under free edge of nail and attacking tli6 nail bed
nrrrlruril subsequentlyleads to ringworm of the nails. The affected nails
heeornerough, opaque and brittle.
t{) Nuil Nutrition
I'hough there is no definite proof of effects of deficiency of vitamins
or olhcr essential substances,but some workers reported that supplemerrting with vitamins A, D and B improves the health and appearance
ill nuils. Other substanceslike amino acids, proteins are also probably
rer[rircd" Fats or oily substancesdlsq supplementthe health of nails.
lr) Nail Cares and Preparations
Vurious products are marketed and are available for enhancing attractivcrcss of nails and contributing to overall beauty. They can be
r lnrsil'icd as follows(a) Nail lacquers and removers.
(h) Auxiliary products
(i) Cuticle removers
(ii) Nail bleachesand nail whites
(iii) Nail creams
CHAPTER.16
183
(s) Satisfactoryflexibility
( l)
(2)
(3)
(a)
I ollrposition
Modern nail lacquers contain the following important ingredients( l) Film fbrmers
(2) Resins
(3) Solvents
(4) Diluents
(.5) Plasticizers
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(6) Colours
(7) Pearlescentpigments
(8) Others
(1) Film forming substances : The common firm former
for nail
lacquers is nitrocellulose or ceilulose nitrate. 'fhough, over
the years,
several other substancesare being used, but still nitrocellplose
remains
as the most preferred film former. The other film formers
used arc
cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, ethyl ceilulose,
methacryrate
and vinyl resins. But none of these materials has been found
to be as
good as cellulose nitrate.
Nitrocellulose film is better in terms of hardness,toughness,
resistance to abrasion and low solvent retention capacity.
Films or'
nitrocellulose are waterproof and stable to atmospheric conditions.
Nitrocellulose is available in various grades and only low
viscosity
grades are used for lacquers. Use of special grade
nitrocellurose
prevents discoloration of nails. when used alone, it produces
film of.
poor gloss, brittle due to shrinking and poor adherenceto
most surfaces.
To overcome these problems normalry modifiing resin is incorporated
Nitrocellulose is marketed dampened with ethyl or butyl
alcthol to
reduce high inflammability.
(?) Resins : Resins are incorporated in nail lacquers to give
the film
more body, gloss, depth and adhesion. It also helps in
dispersing
insoluble pigments and lakes. Though initiaily natural resins
such as
gum damar, benzoic resin, gum copal, gum elemi,
shellac etc. were
widely used but they have now been replaced by svnthetic
resins.
Amongst synthetic resins, sulphonamide-formaldehyderesins
are presentlv used most. The polymer made by mixing equimolecularproportions
of formaldehyde pnd p-toluene sulphonamide brings e*"eil"nt
glorr,
depth. adhesion, and resistanceto water. Two such commercial products
of the aryl sulphonamide-formaldehyde type are santolite
MHp and
santollite MS 80%. The first one gives an harder film and the
latter
imparts greater flexibility and gives high gloss and good flow properties.
But, they also cause allergic reactions more frequentry
than others.
other synthetic resins which are also used occasionally include
alkyl
resins, polystyrene, polyvinyl acetate, polyacrylic estei,
epoxy ester.
coumafone indene polymers. and copolyr-nerof vinyl acetate anri
vinyt
chloride.
I i r l fi
N A l l . LA QU E R S A N D R E MOV E R S
Roiling
Point
Solvenl
Boiling
Point
35"C
46"C
Diethyl carbonate
126"C.
t r r r l r r rr lri s u l p h i d e
134'C
l r l r 'l l r y li t c e t o n e
500c.
135"C
55'C
Ethyl lactate
I 35"Cl
)b " L
Xylene
I 38'C
68"C
70"c
77"C
78"C
80"c
80'c
92"C
g6'c
Amyl propionate
140'c
Isoamyl acetate
Butyl propionate
140'c
145"C
Cyclohexanone
154"C
159'C
i-Iexalin
160'c
Methyl cyclohexanone
160'c
Furt"ural
162'C
99'C
I l0'c
1l0'c
I l0"c
I tr3"C
120'C
I 25'C
Diaeetonealcohol
164'C
\r r 'l r l ttt:
lrl,-tlrr,lircetate
h l r 'l l r r 'lc t h y l k e t o n e
I rr lron I'ctrachloride
Itlryl :rlcohol
l '. u p r o l r yal l c o h o l
llr tllCllO
l ',1;rropy I acetate
l l rrl yl l ormate
Itl rr'l propronate
ri l rtrl V l i tcetate
Iol rrctte
,\rrryl l i rrmate
185
Itrl vl i rl t:ohol
:\rrrr'l rtl cofrol
\rrrr'l i tccti ttc
165"C
Hexalin acetate
183"C
Ethyl oxalate
I 85"C
Butyl lactate
I 85"C]
Glycol diacetate
l l l 60('
Cyclohexanonephthalate
186
I Ir Ir'
t87
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S
Low volatility
r 88
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t h lr' NAll.I.AQUERS
ANDREMOVERS
189
For m ulaI
Synthetic nacreous pigments are either obtained from
mica flakes or
platcletscoatedwith bismuth oxychloride or titanium
dioxide. Synthetic
nacreouspigments are cheaperthan natural products.
(8) Perfume (others) : This is added basically
to mark the odour ol
the other ingredients. The perfume need not
be strong. Normally
synthetic perfumes are preferred. But it should not
destabilizethe colour
or product.
Application
Application techniqueof nair lacquersis very important
to get good
effect' The nail lacquers can be appiied differently. pres"ent
day
products are mainly applied directly, several times,
to iet a good, even
and firm coat.
But to get more attractive appearance,sometimes,the
whole application is done stepwise. First a basecoat is appriedprior
to the application
of coloured nail enamel" This is b crear concentrated
racqueibase an.r
forms an even surrfaceand helps the distribution of
subsequentafprica,
tion properly. T'he' the corouredlacquer is applied.
Finaily a top coar
or hardelreris used o'er the coloured lacquer. This is
basicairy ct"o,
lacquer base with lerssplasticizer but rncireresin.
"
Sometintesfor 14ulckdr3,isl1'
;rn aerosoi spra1,is applied, rvhich evapo.
rates the solvelir{iar:lr,l-
Nitrocellulose
Resin
Plasticizer
Solvent
Colour
Perfume
16.0gm
9"0 gm
4.8 gm
60.5 gm
0.5 gm
q.s.
Nitrocellulose
Dibutyl phthalate
Polyvinyl acetate
Methylene chloride
Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether
Diethyl glycol monomethyl ether
Ethyl alcohol
Perfume oil
Colour
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
29.4 gm
28.0 gm
2.0 gm
14.0 gm
6.0 gm
0.5 em
For m ula3
Nitrocellulose
Dioctyl adipate
Triethyl phosphate
Camphor
,Acetone
Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether
Colour
13.0 gm
13.5 gm
5.5 gm
3.0 grn
3.0 gm
35.0 gur
0.4 sm
190
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
I h 16 NAIL LAQUERS
AND REMOVERS
Formula 4
Nitrocellulose
Plasticizer
Polypropyl methacrylate
Butyl acetate
Ethyl alcohol
Toluene
Colour
4.0 gm
4.0 grn
18.6gm
23.9 gm
25.6 gm
23.4 gm
0.5 gm
Lacquer Removers
These products are also called nail cleansers. They are totally
different from other cleansers,such as hair, skin and teeth cleansers,as
nail cleansers are required to remove only nail lacquers whereas others
are used to remove greasy materials, dirt, dust, etc. As nail cleansersare
required to be applied on a smooth and highly resistantsurface, composition can be different. These preparations rarely come in contact with
the surrounding skin, which is not so in the case of other cleansers. So,
the chanceof damage is much Iessthan shampoosor other cleansers.
Basically all lacquer removers should contain solvent or mixture of
solvents which can dissolvethe nail lacquer. An ideal lacquerremover
should have the followins characteristics-
Fo r m u l a 6
Castor oil
Diehtyleneglycol monoethyl ether
Acetone
Perfume
brittle.
L---
3.0 gm
15.0 gm
82.0 gm
q.s
15.0 gm
80.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
I9I
Butyl stearate
Ethyl acetate
Butyl acetate
Acetone
Toluene
Perfume
3.0 gm
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
25.0 gm
32.0 gm
q.s.
r92
A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
CHAPTER17
(2) Drying rate : This can be done by taking the product on a flat
surface and touching the product with tip of finger at short intervals of
time to feel the tackiness. Tirne taken for disappearanceof tackiness is
noted.
(3) Smoothness : This is the character of the film. The hlm is
applied on a surface and the surface characteristics of the fihn are
studied microscopically.
(4) Hardness : This is the measure of the hardnessof film. After
application of the film on a flat surface the hardness in measured by
applying pressuremechanically.
(5) Adhesion : This is the measurementof adhesion characterof the
film with adhering surface. This is done by applying the film and then
measuring the adhesion character by trying to remove the film mechanically and the fbrce required for that.
(6) Abrasion resistance : This quality is studied by applying the
film on a surface and then a mechanicar abrasive effect is uffti"o. rn"
surface characteristicsof the film are studied before and after abnasive
effect.
(7) water resistance : This is the measurementof the resistance
towards water permeability of the film. This is done applying a continunus film on a surface and immersing it in water. The weights before and
after immersion are noted and increase in weight, is calculated. Higher
the increase in weight lower the water resistance.
(8) viscosity : This is arso an important character and can be
measured by any viscometer. It can simply be measuredby the flow of
lacquers from the applicator brush and comparing it with a standard or
good commercial product.
(9) stability : Stability study of the product as well as colour is also
very important and essential. This can be done by acceleratedstability
test.
194
A nANDBooK oF cosMETrcs
FormulaI
Beeswax
Ozokerite
Montan wax
Mineral oil
Cetyl alcohol
Borax
Aluminium stearate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
15.0gm
2.5 gm
2.5 gm
40.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.5 gm
10.0gm
26.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
195
I h | / AI,XILIARY
PRODUCTS
FORNAILS
I lrclc is another product called cuticle oils which is used, also, for
'irrltcrrirrllthe cuticle. They are normally made by using oil soluble
lt,lrrrl lirnolin or its derivatives diluted with any vegetable oil or fatty
rr{l rl csl crs.
L'rrticlccreamsor oils, on regular use,loosencuticle and keep it in a
lrcirlllry condition. These preparationsare applied using an orange stick
tippcd with cotton wool, on the cuticle and pressing them backward,
gerrtly, and away from the nail. This improves the appearanceof the
r rrti t' l c.
('uticle removers are used for removal of cuticles by hydrolysis and
rrvrllirrg of the softened cuticles. This is done by using potassium
I ryrlroxide and sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,triethanolamine or
rrrrfrrlu carbonateeither in liquid or cream form. They are used as2-5%o
lrr eillrer aqueousor hydroalcoholic vehicles. To counteractthe irritation
r rrrrsctlby alkali normally humectants such as glycerine or propylene
p.lycolare incorporated. They also prevent the evaporation of water and
in( rcirsethe viscosity of the preparations.
Water-solublegums and hydrocolloids are also used to increase the
vrrt' osi ty. A l kal ine polybasic salt s like t r isodium phosphat e or
tetrusodiumpyrophosphatein 8-10% can also be used in combination
tvilh 2-3o/osodium lauryl sulphate or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate.
I hcy have milder action but are less effective. Perfume and preservatrvcs ilre to be incorporatedaccording to the need and choice. Care must
lx' tlkcn while applying such preparationsto prevent damage to the skin,
rrnil bcd or dermatitis.
CUTICLE SOFTENERCREAMS
For m ula2
4.0 gm
Lanolin (anhydrous)
1.0 gm
Beeswax (white)
95.0 gm
Petroleumjelly
q.s.
Perfume
LOTIONS
Formula3
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 1.5
5.0
Alcohol
1.5
Diethyl phthalate
92.0
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
gm
gm
gm
gm
t96
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
il
L rq u td l a n o l i n
Castor oil
Perfume.
CUTICLE OILS
Formula4
75.0gm
25.0gm
q.s.
Formula5
Llqurct lanolin
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
75.0 gm
25.0 gm
q.s.
For m ula9
I lydrochloric acid (concentrated)
(i l yceri n e
Water
CUTICLE REMOVERS
'
2.0 gm
20.0 gm
78.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
t
potassium
hrd.o*i#.rr,u
Glycerine
propylene
Alcohol
Water
perfume
3.5 gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
51.5grn
q.s.
t
Trisodiumohoroh#.ru,"
Glycerine
Sodiumlauryl ethersulphate
Ethoxylatelanolin aeriuut,.uJ,
Rosewater
(3) Nail Bleaches
10.0gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.5 gm
66.5 gm
These preparations
are used to remove
diffe
:olorationson the nailc
i^ ...L:r_ .,
lr"nt types of stains and
"."r
lhe stainscan be of
vegetables,etc. ,rhe
ink,
stainscun b" removed
lobac;o,
rn
emoved by ei
or
cr reduction
reduction process
either oxidation
pao".r. d"".;;;;;_':"":'j
r1en.^.r;-^
.,
Y"
^_
vrr rrr! nature
-'-'D on.the
rrdrure
"H:"g[J'J:'
jl"::ii,_l&ffi fi ;_il
ff;:::::"i:Jffi
"::
of stalr.
or
stair. Oxidizing
normallvrrqert
normally
Ox
o,o hyi
used are
agents
penoxide, sodium
"..rlflndin*
perborate, zinc
perborate,
other
Other asents
Zinc peroxide.
agents*u,^u
:_Il9en
neroyirto
which are ,;; ;;:':^:l:.ll''lt
.are"citric
of ttut
stain
n or bleaching
acid,
acid,tartaric
tarraricacid,
acia. hydroc
r,ra"^lill",T:::yrvat
hJ;";""^":;;^'
acid. :i,', :t.
use, for
f^, achieving
anr-i^,.:__ - ,rochloric
used
rlduction.
0.4 gm
10. 0 gm
89.6 em
Fo r m u l a l 0
potassiumhrd.o*i#.rut"
Glycerine
Water
perfume
preservative
197
TI, II
Sulphiteswiith dilute
acid are also
llydrogenperoxide(3% 10 vol.)
Arnmonia
ltosewater
I'reservative
73.5 gm
0.5 gm
26.0 gm
q"s.
For m ula1l
Beeswax
Paraffin wax
Mineral oil
Pumicepowder
Borax
Water
Perfume
10.0gm
5.0 gm
46.0 gm
8.0 gm
0.5 gm
30.0 gm
q.s.
198
A HANDBOOKOF COSMTiI'I(I
CHAPTER.IS
NAIL WHITENERS
Formula 12
Titanium dioxide
Petroleum jelly
Beeswax
25.0 gm
70.0 gm
5.0 gm
Melt last two together and add titanium dioxide with trituration and
mill it.
Formula 13
Titanium dioxide
Petroleumjelly
38.0gm
62.0 gm
Melt jelly and mix titanium dioxide properly and mill it.
NAIL STRENGTHENERS
For m ula 14
Potash alum
Glycerine
Formaldehyde
Menthol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Formula 15
Aluminium chloride
Glycerine
Solution of formaldehyde (0%)
Soft soap
Alcohol
Water
Alrrrrlcniulceof health of the teeth and gums well is very important for
Irrrrrrrpigood general health. More often than not, health of teeth and
prrrrr,,ol' a person is an indication of his general health. So, it is
nFrr",:iirryto take care of health of teeth and gums. Various preparations
!ilF il:,c(l lbr cleansing and maintenanceof good health of teeth, gum and
r,rirl r'rrvity. The products,termed as dentifrices,are used to keep the
r..r.tlrt'lcan, shiny and to inhibit the formation of unpleasant odour in
rrrlrrtlrirrrd freshen the breath. But before studying such preparations,it
i! rrlx)rtant to study the anatomy of the teeth and physiology of the oral
, rt\tly und also diseasesof teeth, gum and oral cavity.
3.000gm
10.000gm
0.010gm
0.001gm
86.989gm
q.s.
q.s.
Dentin
Gingiva
5.0 gm
10.0gm
0.1 gm
1.0 gm
5.0 gm
78.9 gm
Gingivalsulcus
Cementum
Periodontalligament
Root canal
Evaluation
Alveolarbone
Apicalforamen
Branches0f alveo!ar
vesselsand nene
200
A HANDBOOK OF COSME'I'I('S
( 'lr-l8 TOOT'H
ANDORALCAVITY
201
202
A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETIC]S
The deposited plaque protects the oral bacteria from the effect or
salivary secretion, thus salivary secretion cannot control their srowth.
Bacterial growth over the food remnants produces acids that slowly
erode the surface and structure ofthe teeth. This results in dental caries
or dental cavities. The most commonly occurring bacteria S. mutans.
when reaches and infects the pulp, causes pulpitis. In such condition,
normal treatment is the complete removal of the pulp tissue, particularly
the sensory innervation and all areas of decay. The pulp cavity is therr
packed with altemative and appropriate materials. This processis callecl
root canal.
Normal brushing of the teeth can only cover the exposed surfacesol'
the teeth. so, this can only prevent the settling of the bacteria and thc
entrapment of food. But the bacterial and the food remnants in interproximal space or between the teeth or within the gingival sulcus cannor
be removed by the brush. Daily use of dentar floss to keep clean these
spacesas well as regular stimulation of gingival epithelium by massaging are recommended for maintenance of good oral health. Acids
generated by bacteria and plaque remaining within the gingival sulcus
for extended period of time will lead to erosion of the connections
between the neck of the tooth and the gingiva. As a result the gum
appears to recede from the tooth and leads to periodontal disease. In
addition to these, the bacteria attack the cementum, finally leading to
destruction of the periodontal ligament and erosion of alveolar bone.
These further lead to loosening of the tooth and thus the tooth falls our
or is required to be removed. periodontal diseaseis the most common
cause for the loss ofteeth.
Dental Preparations
To take care of various dental problems and maintain dental health
and oral cavity various preparations are available and marketed. The
foliowing chapters will deal with such preparations. These preparations
are classified as follows(1) Dental Care Preparations
(a) Tooth pastes
(b) Tooth powders
(c) Solid and liquid dental preparations
(2) Mouthwashes
CHAPTER 19
243
204
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('I
Funcfions of Dentifrices
Though the primary function of a dentifrice is the cleaning of thc
accessible surfaces of the teeth, but it can have some other frinctiorr:,
also. The expected functions of a dentifrice are as follows(1) Cleansingof tooth
(2) Prevention of formation or removal of dental plaque
(3) Prevention of formation of calculus
(4) Polishing of tooth
(5) Reduction ofthe occurrence oftooth decay
(6) Reduction of periodontal disease
(7) Prevention or reduction of mouth odours and freshening ol
breath
Some commercial dentifrices may be performing all of the abovt'
functions and some may be fulfilling partial functions.
I l r l ',
l )l i N 'IA L C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
205
Irrgrr.rl i cnts
'looth pastescontain several ingredients to fulfil various functions.
lrrpirt'tlicnts of a tooth paste can be classified as follows and are
rli'i(ilssc(lbelow( l) Abrasives and polishing materials
(2) Detergentsand foaming materials
(3) Humectants
(4) Binding agents
(5) Sweeteningmaterials
(6) Flavours
(7) Preservatives
(ti) Miscellaneous or special ingredients such as therapeutic
agents,whitening agents,etc.
( | ) Abrasives and polishing materials : These materials are also
,,rlh'tl ils cleansing materials. Abrasive is the main constituent of tooth
ptlil(-:i or tooth powders. An abrasive should have to be powder and
Irrrrrllrrrt not such that it makes scratcheson the enamel or gum. They
rre lrrclcrably water-insolublebut water-solubleabrasiveshave also been
rupp,cslcdin recent times. Abrasives should not have any unpleasant
trrstr'.srnell and also should not be toxic. Though hardness is the
Irrlrcrt'rrtcharacter of each substance,however it can, to some extent,
al,,rrrlcpcnd on particle size and impurities. Abrasives are responsible
lrl rcrrrovingfood particles lodged in the teeth. They also help to
rFrtovr some stains from the teeth. Normally the amount of abrasive is
,rl,,rrrtlurlf'of total weight of a tooth paste.
I lrc rnaterials most widely used are calcium carbonate, tricalcium
di calcium phosphat e, alum inium sulphat e, m agnesium
1rl rrr..pl 111tc,
lr l!rlltritlrrand others.
('nlcirrrncarbonate(precipitatedchalk) is the most commonly used
4l,r,rlive. This substanceis availablein different grades. They vary in
,lrrrrrly. crystal form, specific surface,particle size. Normally the very
llglrt llriulc calcium carbonateis used in tooth paste preparations. Pastes
lrrprrrt'rl rrsinglighter grade do not harden. Calcium carbonateimparts
qll,rrlirrilyto the preparation. Chalk is the native form of raw calcium
r dl l tl ]l l i tl ( :.
206
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
I II II'
I)I N IA I, C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
207
6l r
T'hough soaps are alkaline in nature but still they are used. Specially
prepared dental soaps are available for use irr tooth pastes. As soaps
may have odour or taste, tastelessand odourlesssoaps are to be used.
(
208
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
I h f H ut;Nl'lrt, (:AREPREPARATIONS
209
210
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
56.0 gm
1.0 gm
22.0 gm
1.5gm
19.4gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 2
Calcium carbonate
Magnesium carbonate
Magnesium hydroxide
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Gum tragacanth
Glycerine
Oil of peppermint
Saccharine
Water
Preservative
44.5 gm
1.0gm
3.0 gm
1.0gm
1.0gm
31.0gm
1.0 gm
0.1 gm
18.4gm
q.s.
Formula3
Dicalcium phosphate
Sorbitol 70
Gum tragacanth
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Saccharinesodium
Water
Preservative
Flavour
60.0 gm
16.0gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
0.1 gm
21.9 gm
q.s.
q.s.
2t1
Fbrmula4
Tricalcium phosphate
Glycerine
Propylene glycol
Sodium alginate
Saccharine
Mineral oil
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Water
Preservative
Flavour
50.0 gm
8.0 gm
t 14.5gm
0.5 gm
0.05 gm
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
24.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Forirula 5
Stannousfluoride
Calcium pyrophosphate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Stannouspyrophosphate
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Flavour oil
Water
Saccharine
Preservative
0.4 gm
40.0 gm
29.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
0.1 gm
269 gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
Formula6
Dicalcium phosphate
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Saccharine
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Water
Flavour
Preservative
36.0gm
13.0gm
20.0 gm
1.2 gm
0.1 gm
10.0gm
19.75gm
q.s.
q.s.
212
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
2.5 gm
57.5 gm
40.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
I h lu
2r3
t)l i N l A l . C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
Formula8
Calcium carbonate
Dental soap powder
Flavouring oil
Saccharinesodium
92.8 gm
6.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
For m ula9
. Calcium carbonate
Kaolin
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Powdered pumice
Saccharinesodium
Flavour i
Colour
76.0 gm
11.9gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ulal0
Calcium carbonate
Tricalcium phosphate
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Sodium perborate
Saccharinesodium
Flavour
Colour
84.0 gm
10.0gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
16"9gm
80.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
llrt' srlap and calcium carbonateare mixed along with glycerine, and
r,tlr,.rrrtl{itivis and then milled and mixed with some water, if necesSarY,
214
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
I h l ',
l )l N l A t. C 'A R E P R E P A R A TION S
215
to form a soft mass. Then they are made into bars, stick by mechanical
process.
in t'it,t,tcst lras been suggestedin which teeth were brushed for 2 weeks
before and after use with the help of
rrrrrlr onrlilion of teeth was assessed
For m ula 12
4.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.1 gm
0.3 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
85.4 gm
I l r J{l
CHAPTER-20
Mouthwashes
These products are not discussed along with tooth pastes
or tootrr
powders, as there are definite differences between the two
catesories or
products, both functionwise and compositionwise. The
main fuiction ol
tooth pastes and tooth powders is cleansing whereas mouthwashes
arc
basically deodorants and antiseptics. But, it should be mentioned
herc
that all tooth pastes and tooth powders also act as deodorants
as they
help in the removal of food debris which causes mouth
odours o'
decomposition in mouth by oral bacteria. If any bacterioside
is arso
present in tooth pastesthey help in inhibiting bacterial
activity. As mosr
of the tooth pastes coXtain fragrance, they also help in
masking thc
unpleasantodour of the mouth. Similally mouthwashes apart
from their
,
main function of deodorantsand antiseptics, can also help
in cleansing
by removing water-solubresubstancesor loose debris from
the surfaces
or between the teeth or from oral cavitv.
A good mouthwash should have the following characters_
( l) Good and quick antiseptic action at the dilution
it is used
(2) Attractive flavor to impart a odour to the mouth
(3) Sweet taste
(4) Not much expensive
(s) Non-irritant to mouth and mucous membrane
(6) Non-toxic
Composition
M()l l l l IWA S I IE S
217
216
218
A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
nium compounds are very good oral antibacterial and deodorant agents.
sometimes these compounds are used along with some other antiseptics,
such as chlorohexidines. The quaternary ammonium compounds are
effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria and normally active at
alkaline pH. one important problem with quaternary ammonium compounds is their incompatibility with other compounds,particularly anionic
detergents,oil of peppermint, methyl parahydroxy benzoates,citric acid,
saccharine, boric acid etc. However, there are some quaternary com_
pounds which are highly effective over a wide range of pH and with
higher compatibility. Such stable compounds are cetyl pyridinium chloride, quarternary morpholinium alkyl sulphates etc.
euaternary
ammonium compounds should not be used in excess, as at higher
concentration they are toxic and irritant to mucosa.
Essential oils : Though they are basically used as favouring agents,
but some essential oils also have antiseptic properties. cinnamon oil,
cassiaoil, clove oil, eucalyptusoil, thyme oil, peppermintoil, anise oil,
oil of wintergreen or main constituents of these oils such as thymol,
menthol, eucalyptol, anethole and methyl salicylate have antiseptic properties.
I h l tl
M( tl r'IIIWA S HE S
2t9
trfrlr..l:rrr(:cs
used for astringent action are zinc chloride, zinc acetate,
clrrrnrrrrrrlrr
srrlphate(alum), all in 0.05-0.2o/o. Zinc phenosulphateis
unFrfllr (l l-(l.l%o concentration. Tannic acid and its derivatives, acetic
ar t'l r rtrrt':rcid,lactic acid are also used in mouthwashesin 0.05-0.5%.
Ins irlr,,'lrolicsolution or aqueous solution containing glycerine and
frlrirr. ol trrrrnicacid havearealso used. Copper iron or manganesesalts
itr nrt rrscddue to metallic taste or staining charactel though they are
4,'l | i l l l i ( 'nl .
lvliscellaneousantibacterial compounds : other individual antiseptics are clubbed under this category. variety of substancesof different
structures are used as oral antiseptics. Formalin, an aqueoussolution of
formaldehyde (37-4lo/o),is a powerful germicide. Formalin is occasionally incorporated as l%o solution in mouthwashes and further diluted
(1:5) before use. Diluted hydrogen peroxide is also a useful germicide
and used occasionally. Boric acid (2-4./o),benzoic acid,(l-2%) are also
occasionally incorporated in mouthwashes. Iodine liberating substances
are also used as iodine is a good antiseptic. Sodium perborate, urea
peroxide or other oxygen-bearing compounds have also been recommended to incorporate in mouthwashesas antiseptic.
I c ) l'lf,vours
Virrious flavouring agents are available for incorporating in mouthwir\hcs. Peppermint oil, menthol, thymol, aniseed oil, clove oil,
rrrr rrlyptusoil, cinnamon oil, anethole,fennel, methyl salicylateare widely
rr.,rtl. As mentioned earlier some of them also act as an antiseptic.
(2) Astringents
(61 liurfactants
Astringents are being used in mouthwashesfrom a long,time. Astringents are incorporated in mouthwashesfor following various actions:
(a) 'Io shrink and protect inflamed mucous surfaces.
(b) To precipitate proteins of saliva.
r h !o M( )ril llw^stlEs
220
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(7) Sweeteners
Sugars are not used as sweetener in mouthwashes. Saccharine.or
other synthetic sweetener extracts can be used for this purpose.
FormulaI
Benzoicacid
1.00gm
Cetyl triethyl ammoniumbromide 0.60 gm
Resorcinol
1.00gm
Thymol
0.15 gm
Methyl salicylate
0.35 gm
Eucalyptol
0.15 gm
Menthol
0.15 gm
Alcohol
22.00 gm
Water
74.60 gm
Formula2
Tincture of myrrh
Benzoic tincture
Tinctureof iris
Peppermintoil
2.0 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
'l'hymol
Arrethol
liugenol
Cinnamonoil
sodium
Saccharine
Alcohol,
Water
0.2 gm
0.5 gm
0.2 gm
0.1 gm
0.5 gm
70.0 gm
22.0 gm
'
3
Formula
Anethol
Methyl salicylate
Menthol
Propyleneglycol
Glycerine
Tween80
sodium
Saecharine
Ethyl alcohol
Colour
0.6 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
20.0 gm
30.0 gm
20.0 gm
2.0 gm
26.2 gm
q.s.
4
Formula
Phenol
Boric acid
Tincture of myrrh
Tinctureof quillaia
Glycerine
Roseoil
Peppermintoil
Aniseedoil
Cinnamonoil
Clove oil
Alcohol
1.0 gm
2.2 gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
0.4 gm
0.4 gm
0.1 gm
0.2 gm
68.7 gm
Formula5
Phenol
Solutionof sodiumhYdroxide
(3.56%wlv)
Concentratedorangeflower water
Concentratedrose water
Glycerine
Water
Colour
3.6 gm
9.5 gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
12.5 gm
71.4gm
q.s.
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Formula6
Sodiumpotassiumcopperchlorophyllin 0.05 gm
Peppermintoil
0.06 gm
Spearmintoil
,0.04gm
Sodiumcarboxymethylcellulose r
1.00gm
Solublizingagent
0.50 gm
Saccharine
sodium
0.15gm
Ethyl alcohol
10.00gm
Water
88.20gm
All the above products are required to be diluted
with water before
use according to the instructions on the laber. The
dilution is l:5 for
formulae 2, 4 and 5 but formula 3 can be diluted
by l:0. Formulae I
and 6 are to be diluted by l:l
Evaluation
As mouthwashes are used for specific purposes,
such as antiseptic,
deodorizing action etc. in the mouth, it is necessary
to perform suitabre
tests to determine their effectiveness. The following
important tests
should be carried out apart from common tests
for identity, content,
clarity.
Antiseptic property : Though the antisepticsnormally
_(l)
used are
well known and estabrishedone, but their activity
in pure state is of
Iimited value for the expected antiseptic activity
in the formurations.
other ingredients present in the formuration may
modify the activity. So
it is necessary to carry out separate test for their
activity in formulation,
both lz vitro and in vivo.
(a) rn vitro antiseptic activify : This can
be carried out against
suitable oral microorganisms in a suitabre liquid
media o, aga.-inediu
against a control and determining their effectiveness
against tfi" g.o*tn
of the organisms.
(b) In ,va antiseptic activity : This can
be done by collecting
representative bacterial samples, before and after
the use oflouthwash,
and culturing and countin_gcolonies on agar prate.
The representative
samples can be collected from the mouth by rinsing
with saline solution
or swabbing with cotton and then inoculated
oi agar prate. After
incubation for a required period of time the number
of colonies wiil be
indicative of organisms present in the mouth. By
this process,optimum
time rpquired to keep the mouthwash in mouth
can arso be determined.
I h ,'o
MOIJI Ii WAS H E S
223
APPENDIX-I
Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act
as Applicable to Cosmetics
A, l)cfinition
('osmetics, as defined in the Act, mean articles meant to be rubbed,
grrrrrrcd,
sprinkled or sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to
tlre lrrrmanbody or any part thereof for cleansing,beautifoing, promoting
rrllnrctivenessor altering the appearance.
ln the last few years the consumption of cosmetics has touched new
lrcip.htsand the curve is shooting upwards and hence the controls sought
Io bc cxercised on the drugs have been extended to a certain extent to
llre cosmetios.
tl . l mport
lror purposesof import, the cosmetics are deemed to be drugs for the
rrrr;rortof which no license is necessary and all rules applicable to
irrrport of such classes of drugs are applicable to cosmetics as welllkrwcver, the import of the following classesof cosmetics is prohibited'
(i) Misbranded cosmetics which contain colors other than those
prescribed or are not labeled in the prescribed manner or make
:
any false or misleading claims.
(ii) Spurious cosmetics meaning cosmetics which are imitations or
substitutesfor other cosmetics or resemble other cosmetics in a
manner likely to causedeception or are imported under names of
other cosmetics or bear names of manufacturerswhich are fictitious or who are truly not the manufacturers.
(iii) Cosmetics not of standardquality.
(iv) Cosmetics containing any harmful or unsafe ingredients.
(v) Cosmetics containing prescribed colors which contain more than
2 p.p.m.of arsenicor 20 p.p.m. of lead or 100 p.p.m. of heavy
metals other than lead.
(vi) Cosmetics intended for use on the eye brows or eye lashes or
around the eyes containing coal tar dyes or intermediates.
(vii) Cosmetic colored with arsenic or lead compounds.
lviii) Cosmetics containing hexachloropheneor mercury compounds.
(ix) Cosmeticswhose use is likely to involve any risk to the users.
225
226
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
tp.lr I
227
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
228
ACT
ANDCOSMETIC
OFDRUGS
'{;rrlrI l'l{()VIStONS
229
Class of Cosmelics
Labeling Part
(On both Inner and Outer Labels)
Cosmeticsin general
| i l :i l rr'l i c l i l r expOrt
'rlirlr t'orttaininghexachlorophene
I rrullrpastescontainingfluorides
1,,(' ol ors
l'lrc following colors may be added to medicine and cosmetics
grruvidcdthe common name and the percentageof the color are stated on
tlrt lirbel of the container.The medicines or cosmeticsto which these
( ol()rs are added shall noi b" deemed to be misbranded only becauseof
llrc lirct of addition of colors therein:
With the words'. Cautio,n.This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation in certain casesand
so a preliminary test according to the accompanying
directions should be made. This product should not be
used for dyeing the eyelashesor eye brows as such use
may cause blindness. (Equivalent labeling in local languagesis also mandatorY).
l. Natural colors : Annatto, carotene' cochineal, curcumin,'chlorophyll, red oxide of iron, yellow and black oxide of iron, titanium
dioxide.
Note : If the cosmetic has only one label, all the information required to
be disclosed on the inner or outer labels shall be displayed on this label.
The following instructions in English and local language should
Color Index
Number
Chemical Nqme
( i r'(.on:
(.)uinazarine
61565
1,4-bis(p-Toluino)anthraquinone
61570
( ilcen SS
Alizarin Cyanine
(irccn F
(o-sulfo-tulouino)
lrirstGreen FCF
42053
(irccn S
44090
anthraquinone
230
CommonName
of Colors
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Color Index
Number
Chemical Name
APPENDIX-II
Yellow:
Tartrazine
19140
SunsetYellow FCF
15985
Quinoline Yellow WS
47005
Amaranth
16185
Erythrosine
45430
Red:
Eosin YS Or Eosin G
45380
26100
I -p-phenylazo phenylazo-2-naphtho.
Ponceau4 R
I 8255
Carmoisine
t47720
Fast Red E
16005
Indigo Carmine
73015
42090
-5:5-Disulphonicacid
60725
20170
B lue:
Violet:
Alizurol Purple
Brown:
Resorcin Brown
Black:
Naphthol Blue
20470
Il,-rrtorrilc
t r r l rr u n rc a r b o n ate
| , r l l o r r l a lk a o l i n
t orrrslarch
ltll;'rrc:siumcarbonate
li'lrr;irrcsium
oxide
ABSORBENTS
Potato starch
Precipitatedchalk
Rice starch
Tricalcium phosphate
Wheat starch
ADHESIVES
Magnesiumsilicate
Magnesium stearate
Talc
Zinc stearale
AN TIOXID AN TS
Monoisopropyl citrate
,{:r orbic acid
acid
Nor-dihydroguaiaretic
Arcorbyl palmitate
Phenyl alphanaphthylamine
I t t 't i r - N a p t h o l
Propyl gallate
I lrrtylated hydroxyanisole
Pyrogallol
I trrtylatcdhydroxytoluene
( rlric acid
Pyrocatechol
Sodium bisulphite
I trlirurylthiodipropionate
Sodium metabisulphite
| )ntearyl thiodipropionate
Sodium sulphite
.t,'t-di-tert-butylhydroquinone
Sodium thiosulphate
I thyl gallate
( inllic acid
Thioglycerol
Thiosorbitol
llyrlroquinone
Thiourea
lronscorbic acid
Thioglycollic acid
I ct:ithin
Trihydroxybutyrophenone
Mlrlcic acid
llcthional
I lcnz.alkoniumchloride
lhrric acid
llcta naphthol
('umphor
( lhlorhexidine diacetate
( lhlorinated bisphenol
ANTISEPTICS
Hexyl phenol
Heptyl phenol
Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
Menthol
Mcthyl salicylate
Phenol
231
232
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Phenosulphonate
Salicylic acid
Thymol
Tannic acid
Octyl phenol
Zinc phenosulphonate
Chlorothymol
Cinnamon oil
Clove oil
Cresol
Formalin
Hexachlorophene
Hexyl resorcinol
h rrolttt
stearate
Mnp,rtcsittttr
l 'r t r r p i t i r t c dc h a l k
l{ tr c stirrclt
COVERING AGENTS
Titaniumdioxide
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
DETERGENTS
ANTIDANDRUFF
Carboxymethyl
cellulose
Chondrus
Eithylcellulose
Glycerylmonostearate
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Isopropytmyristate
Karyagum
Lanolinderivatives
Magnesiumstearate
AGENTS
Thiol-n-oxide
Thymol
Zinc pyridinium
Zinc undecylinate
Cadmiumsulphide
Camphor
Menthol
Seleniumsulphide
Sodiumsulphacetamide
Iron oxides
Alizarin
Alminium hydrate
Amaranth
Carmine
Cochineal
Chlorophyll
Chromiumoxides
Citrusred
Eosin
Erythrosine
Fluorescein
Indigo
Indigocarmine
Iragalitered
Ay,lr ll
Ar vl bcta-aminopropionates
Ar yl pcptides
Ar yl sitrcocine
All.yl cther sulPhates
Arrrnroniumlauryl sulPhate
t'ur'onut diethanolamide
Iticthyl sodium lauryl sulpho.irrccinate
BINDERS
Methyl cellulose
Mineraloil
Polyvinylpynolidone
Soaps
Sodiumalginate
Starch
Tragacanth
Veegum
Zinc stearate
lropropanolamide
coLoRs
lsopropyl mYristate
lropropylpalmitate
lsopropyl lanolate
l,urrolin
Lake red D
Lake red DBA
Lake red DCA
Naptholblueblack
OrangeG
Phthalocyanine
blue
Resorcinbrown
RhodamineB 500
Saffron
Tartrazine
Tetrabromofluorescein
Tetrachlorofl
uorescein
Titaniumdioxide
Ulramarines
Zinc oxide
lauryl sulphate
Mntr',rrcsium
Mctlryl taurides
Morrocthanolamide
('cstostearylalcohol
( 'c l y l a l c o h o l
('()coabutter
( iroundnutoil
Acacia
Agor agar
llccswax
('urboxy cellulose
('cllulose acetate
( lcllulose acetobutyrate
( lcllulosenitrate
('ctostearyl alcohol
llthyl cellulose
(ium copal
(;um damar
(ium elemi
lsopropyl lanolate
EMOLLIENTS
Lanolin alcohol
Lanolin oil
Lanolin wax
SPermaceti
Stearic acid
Wool wax alcohol
Wool wax steroids
FILM FORMERS
Lanolin alcohol
Lanolin oil
Lanolin wax
Liquid Paraffin
Methacrylate
MethYl cellulose
Paraffin wax
PhospholiPids
PolYvinYl PYrrolidone
Shellac
Stearic acid
StearYlalcohol
Tragacanth
A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Karya gum
Lanolin
Vinyl resin
Bismuth citrate
Cadmium sulphate
Camomile
Cobalt sulphate
Copper sulphate
Copper chloride
Henna
Lawsone
Lead acetate
HAIR COLORANTS
Lead sulphate
Nickel sulphate
Ortho amino phenol
4-nitro-1, 2-amino benzene
Paraphenylenediamine
Paraaminophenol
Pyrogallol
Silver nitrate
Reng
Arsenic trisulphide
Barium sulphide
Calcium sulphide
Calcium thioglycol late
Keratinase
Lithium thioglycollate
Magnesium sulphide
HAIR REMOVERS
Rhodamine
Sodium stannite
Sodium sulphide
Stronsilum sulphide
Stronsium thiolactate
Thiglycolic acid
Zinc sulphide
Amino acids
Egg
Herbal extracts
Lanolin
Ethylene glycol
Fructose
Glucose
Glucosamine
Glycerine
Mannitol
Polyethylene glycol
Polyoxyethyleneglycerin
Arachis oil
Acetoglycerides
Butyl stearate
Castor oil
Polyoxyethylene
sorbitol
Propyleneglycol
Sodiumlactate
Sodium 2-pynolidone-5-carboxylate
Sorbitol
Triethyleneglycol
Triethanolamine
Urea
OILS
Mustardseedoil
Oleyl alcohol
Oliveoil
Paraffinoil
Ap{r ll
I o r o t t r t l<l i l
I l1'rlrrrgcrrrtcd
vegetableoils
lrupropyl myristate
IrlpropyI pulmitate
lioproJry||inoleate
I n r r r r l r nr l i l
I ltetlrylschacate
flernrlccyl stearate
t 1il.ilililc
Peanutoil
Propyleneglycol monoricinoleate
Tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol
Tetrahydrofurfurylacetate
Tetrahydrofurfurylbnzoate
Tetrahydrofurfurylstearate
Tetrahydrofurfurylricinoleate
OPACIFIERS
Propyleneglycol
stearate
Titanimdioxide
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
l l y r l r o u sl a n o l i n
I llltr)ln)nc
Nlrrgnesiumstearate
lioll's1l't1.t. glycol 400
A l t t u r r t tol i l
h l,rrrrrruth
oxychloride
I lr on butter
( orlor oil
235
PEARLSCENT AGENTS
4-methyl-7-diethylamino
coumarin
4-methyl-5,
7-dihydrocoumarin
Mica
Spermaceti
Starch
I ttlrrrrl.paraffin
A rttlrt'rgris
A rrrylcinnamicaldehyde
llcil/yl Dcetate
I lcrgnrrrot
llurt tlc rose
| ||:lotcttm
t lrrrrunric
alcohol
I llill
I ivel
I rrgt'rrol
I rrrrcsol
t rcrrrtriol
t iuurrium
I l1,.lroxycitronellal
,\ r'cty Iirtcdmonoglyceride
rr llulyl stearate
( 'n t t r l l l t o r
( rr,iloroil
( lrlorinateddiphcnylenes
PERFUMES
Ionone
Lavenderoil
Linalol
Methyl salicylate
Musk
Patchouli
Phenylethyl alcohol
Pineoil
Sandalwood
oil
Terpineol
Vanillin
Vetivert
Ylang-ylang
PLASTICISERS
Dibutyt phthalare
Resorcinoldiacetate
Triethylcitrate
Urea
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
PRESERVATIVES
Formic acid
Hexachlorophene
Methyl chlorothymol
Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate
Ortho-phenyl phenol
Para-chlorobenzoicacid
Para-chlorometa-cresol
Benzalkonium
chloride
Benzethonium
chloride
Benzoicacid
Benzylparahydroxy
benzoate
Butyl parahydroxybenzoate
Acetyl pyridiniumchloride
Cetyl trimethylammonium
bromide
Chlorobutanol
Cinnamicaldehyde.
Cresol
Ethyl alcohol
Ethyl parahvdroxy
benzoate
Formaldehyde
Androgen
Arachidonicacid
Estrogen
Lanoleic acid
Lanolenicacid
Acetone
Amyl acetate
Amyl alcohol
Arachis oil
Benzene
Butyl acetate
Butyl alcohol
Butyl stearate
Castor oil
Coconut oil
Dibutyl phthalate
Diethyleneglycol monostearate
Dioctyl adipate
Ethyi acette
Ethyl alcohol
Ethyl butyrate
Gamma-valerolactone
Glyceryl monolaurate
Glycerol monostearate
Isopropyl myristate
Mustard seed oil
Olive oil
Peanut oil
Polyethyleneglycol
Propylene glycol
Propylene glycol monom)fristate
Tetrohydrofurfuryl alcohol
Triethylene glycol
Toluene
Xylene
SI.TNSCREEN
AGENTS
Kaolin
Linalyl ortho-arninobenzoate
Magnesiumoxide
Menthylcinnarnate
,dnliviray
2-Acetyl-3-bromoindazole
Amyl salicl,late
Benzyl acctophenone
rfir
ll
llerrirI r irirurrrrirlc
l l e r r rl I r r rl l r o i u n i nob e n zo a te
f l r . r t r rI r r r l i c y l u t c
I e l r t r r r r r t r tl l o t r a l e
t r , l r r l r r . x c t r yolr t h o - a m i n o lrrtt:rnlc
I lelrhtrrr
I l t r l r r r r y I b u l a d i e ne
I e rr r l r l i r r
I lht I lrrr|,rr-irnrino
benzoate
I llhFl/nln(:clone
I rihrrlroxy naphthonicacid
.t { rlrlrvdroxybenzophenone
I i l l rn c o l A - 1 0 0 0
I l l l t a q o ll l
lillrelyl sirlicylate
I lnrrrrrircnthylsalicylate
llrlrt,lyl pnra-aminobenzoate
Menthyl salicylate
Menthyl ortho-amino benzoate
Methyl umelliferone
Methyl esculetin
Orth hydroxy biphenyl
disulphonate
Para amino benzoic acid
Paradimethylamino benzoic acid
Parahydroxy biphenyt disulphonate
Phenyl ethyl ortho-amino benzoate
Phenyl salicylate
Sodium 2-naphthol-6,8-disulphonate
Sodium 2-naphthol-3, 6-disulphonate
Stilbene
Talc
Terpenyl ortho-aminobenzoate
Umbelliferone
SUNTAN AGENTS/STAININGAGENTS
I Mlllurxy psoralen
Lawsone
I Ftlroxy psoralen
Erythrulose
Itt hyrhoxy acetone
Olive oil extractof cudbearand hnna
I rrplrrrrc
Walnutiuice
STJSPENDING
,.{GENTS
Guargum
AP- r l t
Hectorite
{ | F .ti l ul c s
I{ydroxyethyl cellulose
llerrtrrrritc
Hydroxypropyl cellulose
t nrlropol
Methyl cellulose
I tr lronlcr
Micro crystallinecellulose
t rrrllr)xymethyl cellulose
Polyvinylalcohol
l rllrrlosepowder
Polyvinylpynolidone
t olhridalsilicates
Pectin
t lroldorus
Tragacanth
I relntin
Veegum
Ar ilr ill
14'hitcbceswax
( rulrhrlliawax
l'ruttntrbawax
('crrsin wax
( frokcrile wax
{'etyl alcohol
237
WAXES
Cetosterylalcohol
Cocoabutter
Lanolinanhydrous
jelly
Petroleum
Paraffin wax
Petrolatum
240
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC,S
5. What
Aprh lV
241
MODEL QUESTIONS
Vo w/w
Talc
32.0
Kaolin
20.o
Precipitated chalk
25.O
Zinc oxide
l5. 0
9. A female with dry skin has a wound on left leg below the knee. Shc
applied ralc on wound immediately availablein the house. Do you
supporther action?Justify your answer.
10.Is covering power of a face powder affected by the degreeof oiliness or
skin? IIow would you correlatethe two?
Iron'oxide
q. s.
Perfume
q. s.
Soap (binder)
8. 0
(il) Prepare a flow chart clearly indicating the procedure you would
' adopt to manufacturethis preparationby damp compressionin an
industrialunit.
(b) Changethe aboveformula to make it suitablefor a dry and rough
skin full of minute scars. Justifv.
lhby Powders
ll
l fr
ll
woman with oily face or will either of them work equally well? Justify
your answer.
Ingredients
Talc
Ingredients
Formulation-l
Formwlation-2
Talc
6 3 .0g
20.0 g
Kaolin
20.0 g
20.0 g
5 .0 g
39.0g
5 .0 g
Zinc stearate
5 .0 g
Magnesium carbonate
l .o g
Colour
O5
0.5 g
Perfume
O5
0.5 g
Calcium carbonate
Zinc stearate
Boric acid
I-avender oil
(lolour
15.0g
r6
5.0 g
Vo w/w
?0.0
25.O
4.0
0.3
0.7
0.5
Yrnr lrirvc beerr recently appointed as a 'Formulation Development Exhy Amcos Ltd., which targets at becoming a specialized
-,ulrv(''
lmrrrrllcturing firm for baby products within next 2 years. The company
lr l)r()l)rlsrngat using the following formula for making a 'baby powder'
I l l f,l ) nr i r l l ( ) n:
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Ingredients
Talc
Starch
Titanium dioxide
Olive oil
Iron oxide
Perfume
Propyl paraben
Methyl paraben
Vo wrTp
A;rrlr lv
MODEL QUESTIONS
243
nrixturcin mould?
69.8
20.0
6.0
2.O
1.0
1.0
0.1
0.1
As a new experiencedenaant in the firm, give recommendations/suggestions on the currentproposedformula (with respectto choseningredients&
proportions). If you find the existing formula appropriate,.lustify.
If not,
make necessarychangesand justify the same.
Ch. 4
Lipstick/Coloured Make-up
l. What is the role of waxy materialsin lipsticks?
2' what is the most important criterion to be kept in mind
while preparing
lipsticks?
t)
Why the melting point of lipstick should be higher than drop point?
Ingredients
7ow/w
Bromoaciddyes
20.0
10.0
40.0
10.0
10.0
2.0
Insolublepigmentsand lakes
q. s.
Perfume
q. s.
Polyoxyethyleneoleyl ether
Oleyl alcohol
Castoroil
Candelillawax
Carnubawax
Skin Creams
244
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
irl
lr
245
Alrlr lV MODELQUESTIONS
('lr. (r Sunscreen/suntanand Palliative Preparations
I Why are blacksmore resistanttowardssunburnsthan whites?
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Camphor
Zinc sulphocarbonate
Mineral oil
Glycerin
Rosewater
Methyl paraben
Vow/w
15.0
5.0
1.0
1.0
5.0
10.0
54.0
q.s.
Apdl-lv
246
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Vowhv
r0.0
2.5
2.0
8.0
3.0
74.5
q.s.
q.s.
Ingredients
Petroleumjelly
Mineral oil
Methyl salicylate
Lanolin
Sodium stearate
Salicylic acid
Purified water
p-aminobenzoicacid
Methyl cellulose
Glycerol
Ethyl alcohol
Perfume
Purified water
247
MODEL QUESTIONS
%ow/w
20.o
10.0
10.0
5.0
5.0
2.0
q.s.to lfi)
Would this formula be effective for the purposc?If yes, then justify. If
no, then make changesand give reasonsfor the same.
Ch.7
Hair
l. A woman of age 50 yrs has white hair on her scalp. A man of sameage
also has white hair on his scalp but more whitening is seen. Why does it
happcn so?
Vow/w
5.0
0.5
5.0
40.0
q.s.
q.s.to 100
lli
248
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
A l rrl r l V
Vow/w
Sodium stearate
50.0
3.0
q.s.
q.s.to 100
Sodiumchloride
Perfume,colour and preservatlve
Purified water
A woman using the above hair waving solution found her hair as
lrccorning hard and cuticle becoming brittle. What might be the probable
rc:rson'l Suggest the modifications in the above formula accordingly
'
Monoethanolamine
Ammonium carbonate
Barium sulphide
Zinc sulpbide
Glycerine
Polyethyleneglycol
SodiumCMC
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Borax
Sodium/Potassium
sulphate
Glycol sulphate
Water
Perfume
3.25g
0.5 g
0.65g
89.35g
q .s .
Quantiry
10.0g
10.0g
15.0g
2-5e
3.0g
9.5g
q.s.
q.s.
What happens:
(a) if barium sulphidealone is replacedby strontiumsulphide?
(b) if both barium sulphide and zinc sulphide are replacedby strontium
sulphide?
A cosmetologistplucked the hair of 40 yrs old lady by tweezers,where
the pluckedhair is removedalong with hair bulbs. To avoid discomfort
of pulling hair she applied benzocaine. After two days the female
t:omplainedof infection at the site of hair removal
(a) What is the name of procedurethe cosmetologistused
(b) To prevent such infection what might may be given?
3 .0 g
4.25g
Hair Removers
Ingredients
Quantity
3.0 g
| (iiven a formulation:
Triethanolamine
t Whlt is the best method to achieve cold waving and why? How the
processing time can be prolonged?
Ingredients
249
MOD E L QU E S TION S
Shaving heparations
250
A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS
concentration(5%).
Aryh lv
Lotions uscd as after-shavepreparationscontain alcohol, emollient, antiseptic etc. If there is skin sensitivity with the lotion what should be the
remedy for this?
Theoretically 'Lather shaving cream' should corrode the razor blade edge
more than the'brushless shavingcream', but practically,it is the other
way around. Justify this statement.
Ingredients
Nitrocellulose
Sulphonamide-formaldehyde
resin
Dibutyl phthalate
Castoroil
Ethyl acetate
Butyl acetate
Isopropyl alcohol
Toluene
Red iron oxide
Bismuth oxychloride
Titanium dioxide
Bentonite27
Perfume
25r
MODEL QUESTIONS
Vo w/w
18.0
6.5
3.0
1.5
r0.0
20.o
10.0
22.O
3.5
1.0
0.5
1.0
3.0
Vow/w
r5.0
l1. 0
q.s.
q.s. to lfi)
Can it be used for hearing brittle nails? Why (what effect will it have)?
Formulate a preparationon your own to treat brinle nails. Justify.
Enumcratethe differencesbetweenNail bleach and Nail white.
1 What is a 'fingernail-elongator'?
4 Your nails are dry and brittle and split very easily.
Which ol rlre
following would you adoptto attainhealthynails?The right oprioncoul.l
-F
252
A HANDBooK oF cosMEt-r(,.\
be none, one or more than one. Give reason for either choosing arr
option or rejecting an option.
(a) Massaging your nails with a good brand cuticle remover once rn il
week
(b) Oral ingestion of 2.0 g of gelatin for one month
(c) Keeping the nails clean by frequent washing with soap and water
(d) Applying a fresh coat of nail varnish everyday after cleaning thc
previous application with a nail remover.
(e ) Soaking the nails in warm water followed by application of a nail
cream before going to bed (once in a week)
(0 Soaking the nails in 4Vo HCI solution (Conc. HCI in water) followed
by application of a good quality nail white before going to sleep
(once in a week)
r'o) Oraf ingestion of 2.O g of PABA for one month
Ch. 18
ryrl .,l \
Sorlium saccharine
l'rrlil'icdwater
Ingredients
3. You own a cosmetic manufacturing unit. One of the products is toothpaste (net weight 50 grams). Make a draft of the label (including all
necessary information) for the same.
Glycerol
Preservative
Purified water
2.0,
10"0
q.s.to 100
ICirsons.
Zinc phenolsulPhonate
Glycerol
0/ow/w
0. 4
0.25
0.05
q. s.t o 100
Sl:utuottsfluoride
( 'l r l o n r l b r m
Ingredienrs
253
ohw/w
50.0
30.0
2.5
7.5
1."5
0.5
Menthol
Alcohol
u/aw/w
3. 0
8. 0
0.05
15. 0
q. s.
q.s.to 100
254
A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS
SUBJECTINDEX
subjected?
Aftrr'shavingpreparations,174
All purposecreams, 86
r'oltlpostion,86
Arrtrrlandruffshampoos,120
Arrlrscplicshampoos,120
Atrrrosphericoxidation for cold wavtng. 158
,lrrriliary productsfor nails, 193
('llssification, 193
5. Out of oleic acid, fquid paraffin and coconutoil which one is least likely
to undergooxidation? Give reason/s.
6. Usually tocopherols are naturally present in fats and oils. Give the
probablereason/sfor the same.
7. What will heating the water.to l20oC in a thin film and then instantaneously cooling it do? Will it demineralize the water? Enumerate the
processesyou would employ for demineralizing water for making
cosmeticpreparations.
8 . What are volatile silicones?Where are they used and why?
9 . What is the full form of ceftimide? What are its uses in cosmetic
products?
1 0 . What is LIHST of water? What is its purpose?
1 1 . Suggesttwo meansby which a red toner is convertedinto a red lake.
t2 . Siliconescan be presentin the form of volatilefree flowing liquids,higher
boiling point viscousliquids, as well as resinoussemi- solids. Justify.
1 3 . Enumeratethe methodsthat can be employed for microbiological purification of water, meant for making cosmeticpreparations.
t4. What are stearic acid and oleic acid? For what purpose/s are they
employed in cosmetic products?
1 5 . Enumeratethe functions of ethyl alcohol and soft paraffin.
1 6 . What is ambientcondition testingof a productand what is its significance?
r 7 .Enumerate4 categoriesof cosmetic productsfor which you would carry
out skin sensitivity testing.
18. Write the applicationsof zinc oxide in different formulations.
19. How will you build quality into the final product?
20. Your firm has been provided with 100 conrainers(containing 10 kg each)
of purified talc by a supplier. What would be the samplingtechnrque
adopted by your 'quality assurancedept.' to minimize variability in
results.
21. What is 'repeafedinsult test'? What are the limitations of 'prophetic
patchtest' that the 'repeatinsult test' overcomes?
22. Give two examplesof eachof the following categoryof components.In
which all cosmeticpreparations
are they usedand what function do they
perform in those specific preparation/s?
(a) Quaternaryammonium compounds (b) Thioglycollates
(c) Vegetableoils
(d) Mineral hydrocolloids
(e) Synthetic resins
(f) Higher fatty acids
lleeswax-boraxcleansingcreams,63
gcncral manufacturing,64
htrnuth dyes, 134
llrxly powders, 34
gencralmanufacturing,35
hr rlliantines,142
typcs, 142
lttrd. 142
lrquid, 142
llrurno-mixtures,
43
flr ushlcssshaving creams, 172
('lclnsing and cold creams, 62
cJraracteristics.
63
typcs,63
{'lrnr liquid shampoos,l17
('rrld wave powders, 157
('old waving procedures,156
lhccial methods, 158
( 'olours, certified, 228
('olours for lipsticks,44
('orrrnon disordersof skin, 17
('otrrpact face powders, 30
brrrdingagents,30
rrrctlrodsof preparation,30
( 'orrlctics, I
r 'l l s s i l 'i c a t i o n . 2 .3
tlclinition,224
ffnl)ort rules for 224
l:rlrcling& packing for,227
rules for, 225
rrrlrrulacturing
:.rrlt'srules for,226
( r r t r (l c r c m o v e r s ,1 9 4
( 'utrtlc softeners.194
Dandruff, l8
Dental care preaprations,203
e va l u a ti o n ,2 1 4
liquid. 213
pastes,204
powdcrs,2l l
so l i d ,2 1 3
Dental preparations,202
, . classification,202
Dental problems, 201
Dentifrices, 203
functions, 204
Depilatories, l6l
characters,162
ingredients, 162
Disorders of the sebaceousand sweat
glands, t8
Electrolysis for hair removal, 167
Epilatories, 166
Evaluation of
dental care preparations,214
hair colourants, 140
hair grooming aids, 15l
hair removers, 167
hair tonics, 127
hair wavers, 160
lipsticks, 58
mouth washes,222
nail lacquers, l9l
p o w d e r s,3 T
roughes, 60
shampoos,l2l
shaving preparations,176
skin creams, 89
sunscreenpreparations,103
Face powders, 26
characters, 27
classification,27
general preparations,28
heavy type, 27
light type, 27
medium type,21
255
256
Foundation creams, 7l
general manufactures.7l
Foundation make-up. 73
Foundation and vanishirrgcreams, 67
Gel shampoos,I 18
Harr, 105
ailments,108
anatomy and structure, [06
functions, 107
Hair and hair follicles, 105
Harr bleaches,136
materials, 137
Hair care preparations,109
classification, 109
Hair cleansingpreparations,I l0
Hair colourants, 128
characteristics,128
classifications,128
evaluation,140
lighteners, 136
permanentcolorants, 132
Semipermanentcolorants, 130
temporary colorants, 129
Hair conditioners, 126
Hair creams, 146
Hair curlers, 152
Hair dye removers, 139
Hair grooming aids, l4l
Classification, l4l
evaluation, 151
Hair lacquers, 149
Hair lighteners, 136
materials, 137
Hair oils, 142
Hair reducing agents, 159
Hair removers, 164
evaluation, 167
Hair setting lotions, 144
Hair sprays, 149
Hair straighteners,152, 159
methods,159
Hair tonics, 122
compositions,122
evaluation, 127
materials, 123
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
l l l l l l ,\
t.
251
178
'r r , r l r {n y ,
,
179
"il)l)bsition,
, 1 n rl.[ r e , I 7 9
I lprl Irlrhches,196
l J , , r lc r r $ m s ,1 9 3
l r r r l t l r S r d e r s ,1 8 0
'l 80
lrrrttltfness,
r'tlcrls of systemicdisease,180
lrnllrrl or bacterialorigin, 180
I'olrortychia,180
|r.rrktrnychia,180
rrrrtrrlion.8l
r N , r r lc r r : r m esl o l v e nts,1 8 5
N r r l l i r r 'q u e r s1, 8 2
188
I 't F l ) l r ( 'a t i o n ,
l l r r r r : r t 't e r s1,8 3
I r,rl,,rrr-s
for, 187
r r r r n l x r s i t i o n1, 8 3
, r l r l r r r 'r r fl so r , 1 8 6
I
e l , n l r r l r i o n 1, 9 1
filrrr lirrmersfor, 184
' ptctrcr
:rl preparation, 189
I pcru
lcscentpigments for, 188
'1 x 'r l r r r r r c s1,8 8
r lrlrtslrt'izcr
for, 187
r r r r r sI o r , 1 8 4
1 9r 7s,
N r l l l r l r t 'r 1 1 , i 1 l 1 s ne
w
l
r
l
c
n
c
r
s
,
1
9
7
Nlrrl
f . . /u' l t , t l r / ( 't sl r l r c o l d w a vi n g , l 5 ?
1 1 ,r r l r , r l r z r r rlgo t i o n s,1 5 8
p l r t ; r r t r ln t l t s s a g cr
e e a m s,7 4
I r Il t| ( ) :.tl r oi l ,
75
Palhativcprcparatrons,
98
Paste,trair bleacher,138
Permanenthair colourants, 132
Permanentwave solutions, 155
Pomeds,142
Powders, 24
evaluation,37
raw materials,24
Powder products, 26
Powder rouges, 40
preparation,4l
Powder shampoos,l16
Protective mechanismof the skin, 9l
Psoriasis,l8
Rouge, 50
anhydrouscream rouges, 54
powder rouges, 50
emulsionrouges,55
evaluation,60
liquid rouges, 57
Semi-permanenthair colourants, 130
Sh a m p o o s,1 1 0
additivesfor,1l4
antidandruff, 120
character, I I 1
composition,l1l
classification, 115
evaluation, l2l
gel shampoos,118
general manufacturing, 116
Iiquid shampoos, I 17
oil shampoos,l19
principal surfactants,1 12
secondarysurfactants,I 13
Shaving preparations,169
classificatron,169
evaluation, 176
for razor, 169
for electric shaving, 173
used before shaving, 169
Shavingcreams,hrushless,172
Shavingcreanls,acrosols.173
Shaving soaps,170
APPENDIX-IN
APPENDD(-W
Bibliography
Model Questions
l. M.S. Balsam and E. Sagarin,Cosmetics: Scienceand Technologt,
Wiley-Inter science,New York, USA.
2. l.B. Wilkinson, Harry's Cosmeticologt LeonardHill Book, London,
IjK.
3. Rema Janardhanan,Introduction to Cosmetics,a B.Pharmacy Study
Repo( B.I.T.S.,Pilani, Indi4
I TheS ki n
I Nsnrc the skin surfacesthat are exemptedfrom the distributionof hair
ftrllit'lcs.
lh
5. W.A. Poucher,Modern Cosmetics,Vol. I, lI and III, B.I. Publications, New Delhi, India.
23t
239
258
t(
Hair
l
I
r
I
r
L
F
F
L
t_H
H
Silverdyr ,5
Simulativepreparations,
lO0
Skin
anatomy& physiology,l2
apocrineglands,l7
appendages,
l7
composition,I I
dermis, 16
eccrinesweatglands,l7
epidermis,l3
functions, I I
hair, 17
nutrients,19
nutritionand care,19
sebaceous
glands,17
stratumcorneum,l3
stratumgerminativum,15
stratumgranulosum,15
stratumlucidum,15
stratumspinosum,15
subcutaneous
tissue,16
thickness,14
Skin colourants,39
Skin creams,64
classihcation,
64
evaluation.89
Skin disorders,17
agingof skin, 18
cornmondisorders,l7
dandruff, 18
hyperpigmentation,
18
hypopigrnentation,
l8
pigmenrarydisorders,18
psoriasis,l8
skin scalingdisorders,18
Solid creamshampoos,
I l8
Specialmethodsfor cold waving, 158
Stainingpreparation,lOt
Sunburnpreparations,92
classification.
92
evaluation,103
rl,
,( ) K
( ( ,.,i l t r tr i
Sunscrccn:lg(.nt\..) |
characlcrs,()3
Sunscrccnirrdcx. l(X
Sunscreenprcparations,9O, (f I
protectrvemechlnisnr.9 |
principle of cfl'ectivencss,()2
general manufacturing,9-5
Systemic suntan, 100
Temporary hair colourants, 129
Terminal hairs. 107
Tests for, see Evaluation
Tooth, 199
structure.199
Tooth pastes,204
abrasive& polishingmarerillstln
245
binding agentsfor, 207
I
bleachesfor, 208
characters
of,2M
coloursfor, 208
detergents& foanningmaterials
206
flavoursfor,2O7
generalpreparation,209
humecrants
for,207
ingredientsof,205
lubricantsfor. 208
preservatives
for, 208
sweetening
materials,207
Toothpowders,2ll
composition,
212
generalpreparations,
212
Vanishingcreams,68
generalmanufacturing,69
Vellumshairs,107
Vegetable
dyes"133
Waxesfor lipsricks,4l
Wave set preparations,153
Wavesolutions,
157
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Vot-43 Mahadeva Lal Schroff
VAI.I.ABHPRAKASHAS{
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