Continuous Dyeing Range

world of textiles
References Worldwide issue twelve www.monforts.com
Monforts provide
energy solutions
Contents
The ever increasing costs of utilities including water,

gas and electricity plus the rising price of commodities,
such as cotton, are forcing textile producers to seek
energy savings in a bid to maintain margins. Against
this background of irreversible high costs for primary
energy, Monforts, as a market leader in manufacturing
dyeing and finishing machines for woven and knit
fabrics, is committed to reducing energy consumption
by its customers.
New premises
Advert
Feeling at home already
Heat recovery
Italian textile producers reap benefits of heat recovery
Germany
All new Montex solution a first for BWF Protecs
special requirements
10
India
We will therefore be
giving special emphasis to
energy saving solutions
and environmental
protection at ITMA
2011.
ATEs strength helps Monforts grow in India
The trend is towards

intelligent dyeing and
drying technology for
minimum use of energy
and fashionable fabrics.
Turkish delight
Special focus will also be

for new finishing aspects
of Technical textiles.
India
13
Indonesia
On parade in Indonesia
14
Spain
Monforts technologists a hidden gem
16
Turkey
17
Germany
Custom made solutions
18
The Possehl Group

Possehl post record sales
21
Indias commission dyers meet demand for open-width knits 21
Technical article
On behalf of our Customer Services Department we

are also able to offer modernisation and upgrade
kits for our customers with older Monforts ranges to
allow them to remain competitive and achieve the
highest quality standards and reproducible results.
New developments in continuous dyeing of PES/

cellulosic blends
Rolland Hampel,
Managing Director
Amongst the worlds best
22
India
Continuous dyeing range with Econtrol for NSL Textiles
26
India
28
Energy Towers
Six Energy Towers for Nishat Mills
31
Teleservice
Issued by
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
BlumenbergerStrasse 143 145, D-41061
Mnchengladbach,Germany
www.monforts.de
info@textil.monforts.de
Editors: Klaus A Heinrichs, John Hooper, Peter Tolksdorf
Photography: Joem Promotions
Layout & Design: Alan Humphrey
2
world of textiles issue twelve
Linked to the world
32
China
Happy in Shenzhen but hold the snake!
33
Austria
No Massifs in Shenzhen
34
Indonesia
Taking the lead in Indonesia
35
New premises
Feeling at home already

A new home for the company is proving very
successful for everyone with staff settling in very
quickly following its recent move.
Leaving the old premises on
Schwalmstrae after 127 years was
undoubtedly difficult for everyone,
not only the long-serving members
of the workforce. And yet they have
been very quick to recognize and
appreciate the advantages of their
new surroundings.
Just a few weeks on, everyone
has settled in nicely and the feeling
is unanimous: it has all been worthwhile. Little wonder, considering the
more compact layout and open,
brightly designed production and of-
are very grateful for that support.

Without it, everything would have
taken a lot longer, stresses Monforts authorized officer, Klaus A.
Heinrichs.
Monforts has rented some 2200
m of office space and a production
area of around 3700 m in the
Schlafhorst Businesspark. The administration team has moved into
three floors of the new office building and centralized its structures.
Previously the departments were
distributed around the premises;
fice spaces.
The new, uniform structure has
helped to optimize cooperation and
teamwork by enabling a more regular exchange between the departments, making communication easier.
The Schlafhorst Businesspark in
Mnchengladbach is a location with
a long tradition in the textile industry. This is where the well-known
textile machinery builder Schlafhorst
once built its spinning machines.
Oerlikon Textile still produces here
today, although it is planning to relocate its production next year.
We are pleased that the locations textile tradition, which has
been shaped by Schlafhorst for so
many years, is to be carried on by
another company with a long tradition, explains Businesspark head
Josef Hellenbrand and has actively
supported the Monforts move. We
here they are much closer together.

A tour of the new premises highlights the many benefits of the move.
Administration building ground floor

The ground floor of the modern administration building is the new
home to the service division. This is
where Wolfgang Poos, about to celebrate 30 years with the company
next year, also works. As project
manager, Poos is responsible for
plant rebuilds, retrofits and modernizations
When a request for spare parts
comes in, the order processing department within the service division
takes care of preparing a quote. Here
Ute Westermeier and several of her
colleagues handle enquiries from
India, Turkey, Morocco or the USA in
fluent French and English.

Costing, monitoring cost structure and solving problems is the responsibility of Konrad Wilms, who is
in charge of spare parts sales and
distribution.As a company veteran of
40 years he knows the location well.
From Schlafhorst days, we had a

number of meetings with our business associates here.
He never imagined that he would
one day have his office here too.But
Ive settled in well. Everything is
within easy reach, communication
between the employees has become

even more intense, and the parking
situation is excellent. In short: I feel
quite at home.
Teleservice is an important part of
the service division. One of the people
connected to the world is Michael
Sieberichs, who works in after-sales

service offering support and assistance
with problems over the telephone.
I am responsible for Europe,
Africa and Central and South America, His colleagues, just next door
deal with calls from North America,
Asia and Australia.First of all we try

to help on the phone. The second
stage is for us to offer our teleservice.
The design engineers have set up
their new home on the first floor.The
electrical and mechanical design departments can now work hand in
hand within sight of each other. The

distances between them are short,
and the offices are open and inviting.
Electrical technicians and engineers like Norbert Sieben, a mechanical engineer who knows the Montex
stenter like the back of his hand,
New premises
Production hall
The 2700m production hall is
where all the work leading up to a
Frank Studlarek agrees. He

works in small parts shipping,
shifting loads of up to three tonnes,
and has been with the company
since 1966. The next generation is
already following in his footsteps:
his daughter works in the com-
Administration buildingsecond floor

The last stop on the tour is the second floor. From here the companys
fortunes are directed and its structures managed. Klaus Penris in Accounts has the company finances
firmly under control.
As head of Accounts and Controlling, Ulrich Geusen has a special
connection with the owners of Monforts, Possehl. The Possehl Group is
headquartered in Lbeck and holds
quarterly meetings at which Geusen
discusses procedural matters and
strategy.
German plant engineering and
marketing are the responsibility of
Klaus A. Heinrichs, who also makes
sure that Monforts is recognised locally, regionally and nationally as an
innovative mechanical engineering
firm. The sales division is the doorway to the company, as this is
where the customer enquiries arrive.
delivery comes together. But first to

incoming goods: Peter Tengler has
been working for Monforts for 48
years. The skilled fitter checks goods
received and take care of quality assurance. I never thought I would
find myself working in a new hall
again. But he too can see all the
advantages: Its brighter, friendlier
and more compact the move has
definitely made a difference!
panys service division.

Norbert Kremers works within
sight of his colleague in the spare
parts store, where he is in charge
of the 4000 or more different spare
parts. Whatever their size, from a
nut to a three-tonne radiator, the
skilled machine fitter, who began
his apprenticeship at Monforts in
1967, has everything under control.
Jrgen Hein, who is known
Along with her other colleagues in

Sales, Selma Glcelik is responsible
for project development and deals
with the incoming enquiries.The preliminary quotes are also prepared
here. The initial contact is usually
made via the representatives around
the world, who take direct care of
the customers and are familiar with
conditions in the various countries in
America, Asia or Africa.
simply as Hein and has been

monforized over the past 42
years, keeps an overview as head
of the shipping department.
The rear of the production hall
is the new domain of the apprentices and their training manager
Alexander Meissner. Here in the apprentice workshop, Meissner is
training four electronics technicians. Two technical drawing and
two commercial apprentices are
also employed. These eight trainees
are currently learning the ropes at
Monforts for their future careers.
work here.
The mechanical design department was previously divided between two floors but has now been
brought together on a single floor.
Here too, there has been a significant improvement in dialogue. Dirk
takes place. It is here that the drive

technology for the Monforts
machines is developed.
Esser is working with Pro/ENGINEER, parametric 3D-CAD software

also known under the name of ProE
or Pro/E. All objects are built in 3D
and drawings derived from them, or
several sections are grouped into
an assembly.
The design department is next
door to the electrical lab, where the
circuit diagrams are produced, software developed and programming
Heat recovery
Italian textile producers reap benefits of

heat recovery system
Figures recently released by three Italian textile producers identify significant energy savings with reduced
gas consumption, directly attributed to the heat recovery system; now fitted as standard on the companys
Montex 6500 stenters.
Significant energy savings, with reduced gas consumption, have been
made by three Italian textile producers Giovanni Clerici & Figli SpA,
TMR Cederna and Tintea - thanks to
the heat recovery system fitted to
their Montex 6500 stenters.
The integrated heat recovery system is part of Monforts on-going effort to reduce energy consumption
in the textile industry and is now fitted as standard to all its Montex
6500 stenters.
Records maintained by Giovanni
Clerici & Figli SpA over the past 18
months have indicated a large reduction in gas consumption. Its
non-Monforts 6-chamber stenter,
without a heat recovery system, in its
Gallarate facility, has been consuming 83m/h. If evaluated as an 8chamber unit it equates as 111
m/h.
In comparison, Clericis 8-chamber Montex 6500 with heat recovery
is consuming just 55m /h; providing
a significant reduction of 56 m/h.
The second company, lining fashion wear producer, TMR Cederna
Fodere SpA has two Montex stenters
in its finishing operation, one a Montex 5000 without heat recovery and
the second, a Montex 6500 fitted
with heat recovery.
The 5-chamber Montex 5000
consumes 37m/h which, if calculated as an 8-chamber stenter,
equates at 59m/h. Gas consump-
tion in the 8-chamber Montex 6500

is just 28m/h.
Dye house specialist Tintea ran
two identical 2000 m long batches
through its 8-chamber Montex 6500
stenter one batch with heat recovery, one without. It found a 20% gas
savings for the batch produced using
the heat recovery system.
The heat recovery system comprises a compact, air-to-air heat exchanger, which is installed within the
roof structure of the stenter.The heat
exchanger uses energy from the exhaust gas to preheat up to 60% of
the incoming fresh air entering the
stenter. Depending on production
conditions, this provides energy savings of 10 35% and a typical pay-
back period of around just 12

months.
Featuring large diameter vertical
tubes, the heat exchanger requires
very little maintenance with extended service every one two
months depending on production
cycles. Downtime on the system can
be reduced using optional automatic
dry cleaning device which eliminates
the need for water or chemicals to
ensure that the system is always operating at maximum efficiency.
The integrated system in a spacesaving rectangular design eliminates
the need for heavy support and access structures above the stenter,
and reduces the amount of ductwork required.
logo
Germany | Technical Textiles
All new Montex solution

a first for BWF Protecs special requirements
All the stops were pulled out for the engineering and commissioning of a special Montex stenter line for
Germanys BWF Protec.
Based in Hof, Germany, BWF Protec
is involved in so many industrial
niche markets that its range of
needlepunched materials is perhaps
the widest available from any single
source.
As a consequence, a very versatile and unique Montex stenter solution was needed to meet all
requirements.
We are not making commodities of thousands of square metres,
explained BWF Protec Managing
Director, Dieter A. Huber, Our business is small quantities of usually
very high performance materials for
special niches.
He continued, We have five
product managers who are all specialised textile engineers and follow
industrial developments around the
world to identify areas where a customised needlefelt solution would
be appropriate. Where it is, we can
provide it.
Industries supplied with materials by the company range from the
aerospace, automotive and trans-
10
portation sectors to aluminium, glass

and steel plants and on to the furniture, protective clothing, medical
equipment and grinding and polishing markets.
BWF Protec nonwovens are
manufactured in thicknesses of 1mm
to 25mm, in widths of 50cm to
260cm and in fabric weights of
100gsm up to 5,500gsm.
The staple fibres which are
processed include all natural and
conventional synthetics, in addition
to high value performance fibres
such as Conex, Twaron, Pyron, Kermel, Basofil, P84, Kynol, PTFE and
Zylon.
The company even manufactures
certain products with Bekinox stainless steel fibres.
This is in addition to many special blends, all of which are carded
pre-needled and then finish needled
prior to reaching the stenter.
Due to this extremely wide
range, an off-the-shelf system was
not enough, Mr Huber explains.
We required an all-singing and
11
India
ATEs strength helps Monforts grow in India
all-dancing solution, and Monforts

didnt disappoint with the specially
customised machine model they
delivered.
The Montex 6500 8F Twin Air
system has eight 3m chamber
compartments and a total length of
53m.
The gas-powered unit can operate at a maximum temperature of
230C and the company is running
it at speeds of from 1m/min up to
50m/min. It is also equipped with a
heat recovery unit for added efficiency.
With the stenter we can do one
of two things, adding chemical treatments or heat setting, Mr Huber explained. In some applications low
melt fibres are introduced and once
activated can make the nonwoven
rock-hard like wood. Such materials
obviously have to be cut into sheets
immediately because they cant be
rolled.
A special requirement was the
reinforced horizontal chain.
The horizontal chain is very important because when you are producing materials with thicknesses of
25mm, think about the strength that
is required to keep them in place.
The applications for such extremely heavyweight and often inflexible materials can be surprising.
One is on the very tips of chair-legs
12
to ensure there is no scratching to

wooden or marble floors.
A second is as a manufacturing
component in the pressing of steel.
While such applications may involve very small amounts of material
individually, their use throughout industries worldwide is substantial and
highly valued the secret to success
in niche market manufacturing.
BWF Protec is part of the BWF
Group, which has a turnover of
160 million and 1,300 employees

worldwide. The group has three
other divisions Envirotec, specialising in environmental solutions, Feltec, which makes wool felts, and
Profiles, a thermoplastics materials
business. Having pursued a policy of
global expansion, the company now
has plants in Italy, Turkey, the USA,
China and India, in addition to Germany.
BWF Protec at Hof in Northern
Bavaria has 60 employees, with

65% of its output exported outside
Germany to 53 different countries.
This is the first Monforts stenter
in the whole group, Mr Huber concludes. So far we have used competing technology, but I have to say
that in deciding to go with Monforts,
as the company with the engineering and technology know-how to
meet our specific needs, we did the
right thing.
Indias growing economic prosperity

is resulting in a growth in the domestic textiles and garments sectors,
and as consumers become wealthier
they are demanding better quality.
At the same time, the shape of
Indias textiles sector is changing.
Whereas a few years ago cotton and
cotton blends had the greater share
of the domestic market, with synthetics and other fabrics trailing, that
position has now been reversed.
These changes represent great
opportunities for entrepreneurs,
given the enormous size of the Indian population, but this also requires heavy investment in the best
technology and, in turn, a keen eye
on the part of equipment manufacturers and suppliers to recognise
trends and supply solutions to meet
them.
This is all happening very
quickly, and the changes are profound ones, says Gurudas Aras, director of the Textile Engineering
Group at ATE Enterprises Pvt Ltd.
But there is no doubt the developments are all very positive ones, and
we ourselves are very confident that
with our brand names and the quality of the technology and service
they and we can supply, the future
is a very promising one for us.
The ATE Group, headquartered in
Mumbai, is today a formidable force
in Indias textile and garments industry, yet it started off as a modest
operation. Founded as Associated
Textile Engineers in 1939 by S H
Bhagwati, its initial function was to
sell textile machinery in India.
In 1954 the founders son, Atul
Bhagwati, joined the company and
they began to import European textile technology to India, representing
leading manufacturers.
ATE had begun representation of
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH
in 1975. In 1997 it had entered into
a manufacturing agreement to assemble Monforts stenters under the
Motex brand name at a factory in
Ahmedabad.
By 2007 with a complete restructuring of the ATE Group, ATE
Enterprises was appointed the
sales,marketing and after sales

representation for Monforts and the
Motex machines now made by Inspiron Engineering..
Although we face competition
in the stenter sector with other manufacturers, from Europe, the Far East
and locally, there is no one who can
offer the same level of quality and
technical support, says Mr Aras.
ATE has over the course of
many years built up a service
strength that is dedicated to sup-
has the largest stenter population in

India.This is backed up by 10 ATE offices throughout the country, for we
maintain a presence in all the important textile centres.
Mr Aras says that the strength of
the Monforts brand in India is now
leading the way to producers investing in the companys continuous
dyeing technology.
Three or four years ago, he says,
Indias textile sector was undergoing
very fast expansion and producers
Gurudas Aras, director,

Textile Engineering Group, ATE
porting Indian manufacturers, and
with Monforts we also have the
great advantage that we have three
sources we can draw on, namely
Monforts in Germany, which produces the Montex 6500, Inspiron
here in India, and the Monforts joint
venture in China, Monfongs, which
produces its own version of the
Montex 6500.
So in this way we offer the best
and the fastest options possible.
Monforts has created its own competition. There is no other competitor
like this in the market, and Monforts
began looking for complete end-toend solutions.

Monforts used the strength of
its stenter brand to enter the continuous dyeing sector, and supplied us
with complete support.
One of the most significant
moves came when Monforts organised a conference in Germany dedicated to continuous dyeing, and
invited a very large group of potential customers from India so they
could see the machinery at work and
talk to the people there.
It was enormously effective and
has helped to open the Indian market

for the Thermex continuous dyeing
range. Monforts is now the largest
supplier of continuous dyeing machines in India.
These machines come from
Germany, and as with the stenters
we enter into an after-sales service
agreement with our customers in
which we undertake to keep the machines in good health, with preventive maintenance and fast delivery
and installation of spare parts.
This all helps of course to maintain Monforts good reputation in
the market.
Until recently, Indias fabrics sector was divided between cotton at a
65 % share while 35% was synthetics and other fabrics. Three or
four years ago this began to change,
and the shares are now 47% cotton,
and 53% synthetics and other fabrics. This is closer in line with the
world situation of 63% synthetics
and 37% cotton.
For ATE, this presents more opportunities. Mr Aras says that the
company is closely following the
new trend towards technical textiles,
spreading its wings beyond its traditional strong area of short staple and
cotton textiles. And after extending
to technical textiles a few years ago,
ATE has now set up a new synthetic
machinery division.
This is all part of growth and
shifting tastes and patterns, says
Mr Aras. Indias economy is growing at the rate of 8% per year. Domestic consumption is growing, and
in fact the textile and garment industry was not really hit by the
global financial crisis of a couple of
years ago, because the domestic industry is so strong.
70% of our population lives in
the rural areas. The government has
increased the base price of cotton
grain by up to 40% and this money
has gone to the farmers and the
villages, and the rural people now
have a lot more cash in hand.
This is driving consumption.
Consumption drives quality. Quality
drives technology. We see a very
bright market ahead.
13
Indonesia | Special finishing
On parade in Indonesia
South East Asias largest integrated vertical textilegarment manufacturing company and one of the
worlds leading producers of military uniforms, P.T.
Sri Rejeki lsman, has commissioned its two latest
Montex stenters; making a total of eight Montex
stenters at the Indonesian producers facility.
Recognised as South East Asias
largest integrated vertical textile-garment manufacturing company and
one of the worlds leading producers
of military uniforms, P.T. Sri Rejeki
lsman, Sritex now has eight Montex
Iwan S. Lukminto,
President, P.T Sri Rejeki Isman
stenters; all ordered through local
representative P.T. Primatek Technologies.
Originally founded by Mr. Lukminto in 1966 as a market trader in
Solo city textile market, he sold fabrics
from a 3m x 3m stall.
From these humble beginnings,
Mr. Lukminto started a dyeing process
for hand piece dye fabrics from home.
By 1970 he had moved into a new
factory introducing more advanced
dyeing and printing techniques before
moving to larger premises in 1978.
During the 70s the company introduced finishing using a mix of
Japanese and Taiwanese stenters and
introducing its first European marque.
Recognising the quality attained
with the superior European manufactured stenters, Mr. Lukminto introduced the companys first Monforts
Montex stenter in the early 1990s.
Today, in addition to the Montex
stenters, the company also has a
Thermex and Sanforiser in its production process.
According to the founders son
and Company President, Iwan S. Lukminto, we have grown to recognise
14
the superior quality, robust strength

and after-service back-up provided
by Monforts and their representative
Primatek.
On parade - military uniforms
Today, the company is recognised as
a leading producer of military uniforms, supplying military uniforms for
no fewer then 26 countries worldwide. The company is an authorised
licensed printer for the German Army
and regularly supplies to several
armed forces in Europe.
It was my father who first recognised the potential for military uniforms said Iwan He saw that the
Indonesian army needed more quality
uniforms to a higher requirement
which at the time we could not meet.
We therefore learnt about
quality. This led to an enquiry from
Germany.
It was a totally different market
to fashion wear with the military demanding a higher performance and
durability with, for example, an anti
- mosquito finish and infra-red reflectance.
Another factor was stability of
colour particularly with camouflage

uniforms.
Iwan went on to say, Today the
requirements from the military are
getting even higher with narrower
tolerance and colour fastness.
Germany is today still a key customer, with the Bundeswehr Authority bi-annually inspecting quality and
systems, environmental issues,
compliance with human rights and
company social responsibilities.
Finishing Process
Each Montex stenter receives at
least two passes and frequently
three, confirmed Iwan.
The first for setting, and the second for finishing, however with so
many special treatments, a third
pass is frequently necessary.
These treatments can include
water repellent, insect repellent,
flame retardant, stain defender, anti
infra-red and breathable finishes for
the uniform fabrics.
The fabrics pass through the
stenter at speeds dependant on the
weight. Typically for example, a
140 gm/m fabric will run at
70m/min. Fabric weights of between 100 gm/m - 400 gm/m are
processed.
For the camouflage fabrics both
a dye and print process can be
used printing up to twelve colours.
15
Spain
Monforts technologists a hidden gem

Barcelona, the venue for ITMA 2011, is also the home of one of the longest appointed representatives,
Aguilar & Pineda, which, founded in 1876, already has its sixth generation of the family owned business
waiting in the wings. World of Textiles recently met Carlos Aguilar Peyra for an overview of Spains textile
industry and its hopes for the future.
logo
As the former industrial base for

Spain, Barcelona has been forced to
reinvent itself such that, today it
boasts the best training hospitals,
universities and many of the countrys leading IT companies; following
the closure of so many of its old factories.
This also epitomises a mirror
image of one of Monforts oldest representatives appointed in 1971 Aguilar & Pineda and the countrys
textile industry. Not so many years
ago Spain was todays China of the
world, supplying Europe with cheap
textiles, as a direct result of its low
salaries. However this has now been
reversed with Asian markets supplying both Spain and the rest of
Europe with cheaper textiles.
According to Carlos Aguilar
Peyra, Managing Director of local
representative, Aguilar & Pineda,
membership to the European Community in 1986 was initially greatly
beneficial for Spain.
However, he adds, As with all
club membership we had to follow
all the rules and accept its open
door policy. As a very closed door
and protectionist country, we found
16
this to be difficult.
Almost immediately we started
to see the influx of textiles from
China and the decline in the Spanish
market with the transfer to Asia.
Despite a slight recovery in 2007
when Spanish textile companies
had recognised that to survive it
needed to increase its production
and quality, offering more value
added products, smaller batches and
faster deliveries for the fashion industry, it proved short-lived.
New merger
During 2007 we further recognised
that with the downturn, we needed
to re-establish ourselves with a new

dimension and added strength. We
therefore created a new company,
together with another established
family trading company, Eduardo de
Pineda SL; proving to be extremely
positive.
Whilst we have not achieved
the old budgets of the glory days,
we have been lucky to have the opportunity to achieve and adjust for
the new trends. Alone we would
have found it more difficult to survive.
Today the new company is considered to be the largest textile
equipment agency in Spain; with
Aguilar specialising in dyeing and
finishing equipment and Pineda,
spinning and weaving. Meeting the
cyclical nature of the textile business,
the new company has also sought
agencies in other areas such as
chemical and environmental and

being active with another company
in the group involved in food and
packaging.
Aguilar was founded in 1876 by
Carloss great grandfather, Snr Blas
Aquilar, handling all aspects of textile
production. Working in retail, selling
yarns in Barcelona, he soon recognised the potential demand for textile machinery. Being a French
speaker unusual in those days
proved a decisive factor in seeking
information on equipment outside
Spain.
Control then passed onto his
son, Luciano Aquilar, who l attribute
his greatest success to maintaining
the company through a very tumultuous period, which included two
World Wars and the Spanish civil
war.
My grandfather died in 1951
with Spain totally isolated with its
borders closed. My father and uncle,
Carlos and Emilio, were therefore
very instrumental in trying to source
Spanish produced textile equipment.
Carlos joined the family business
in 1971 and together with his cousin
was at the forefront of Spain opening its borders and minds to buying
European equipment: including
Monforts.
World recession
The small recovery of 2007 was soon
to be halted in 2008/9 and the world
recession. Despite 2010 showing
signs of a new recovery, Spain still
has problems with no investment in
new equipment and banks are still
ample, only have workloads assured

for the next three or four weeks.
Many of our commission dyers have
gone.
A number of our bigger weaving companies have opted to become more vertical in a bid to gain
control of quality and deadlines.
Several of our leading fashion
houses have also recognised the
need for some production to be
made in Spain to meet deadlines; reversing trends five years ago to move
to Asia.
Key to survival
not lending money.

Spain is suffering badly from the
crash of its construction industry with
massive debts.
A symposium is shortly planned
to look at the state of the textile industry and the role for Spain and Europe in the next five years.
But a stenter is for 10 years
minimum and companies do not
have the confidence to invest at this
moment in time. Some dyers, for ex-
Today the Spanish textile industry

cannot be defined as Spain but part
of the European community, dyeing,
for example, for German and French
textile producers in Germany and
France.
With 4 million unemployed in
Spain there can be no real growth in
the local market. Survival therefore
means exporting into the European
markets.
ITMA 2011
Whilst 2005 saw the demise of the
Spanish textile industry as we knew
it, we will see a return but it will be
smaller. ITMA will help to provide a
realisation for survival.
Where so many of the former
textile barons closed their mills and
sold the land for redevelopment,
Local representation
Since its appointment as the local
representative in 1971. Aguilar has
enjoyed considerable success. Today
energy costs undoubtedly play an
important role. But, according to
Carlos, perhaps even more paramount is the efficiency and reliability
of the stenter with speed, quality and
productivity key factors together with
low maintenance.
For Monforts, one of the
strongest advantages, not offered by
its competitors, is the assistance provided to customers by its technologists, led by Thomas Pffgen, Kurt
van Wersch and Peter Tolksdorf.They
provide a vital role in securing new

business and have proved to be a
real gem.
For sales to the larger vertical
operations with long production
lines and reduced workforce, the
market is still seeking new equipment. But for the smaller dyeing and
finishing operations, seeking more
flexibility and smaller machines with
add ons to produce different fabrics
with the same unit, a new trend is
for Monforts modification/upgrade
kits.
For example, we have recently
installed a new Hotflue to an existing
line to increase productivity. Others
are adding elements of control to
modify and upgrade systems.
New chains with improved
greasing are being installed as a
more cost effective solution to increase a machine performance.
Turkish delight
Turkish dyeing and finishing of synthetic knitted
fabrics specialist Yalcin Tekstil has installed a third
Montex.
According to company director,

Baran Arin, the intention of adding
the latest machine was to be able to
offer faster and more flexible production times to its customers.
Some work is done on a commission dyeing and finishing basis,
some is for our own elastic warp
knitted fabrics. The products are either destined for the domestic market or exported, said Mr Arin. This
means that we have to supply optimum quality, to tight deadlines, and
in greatly varying quantities. Consequently, the latest Montex is an important investment for us.
The stenter design allows the
company to provide any finishing effect that is needed, and that small
production runs are easy to cater for
because of the simplicity of the com-
puterised operation, he said.

We specialise in the treatment
of synthetic warp knit fabrics ranging
from 20 gm/m2 to 350 gm/m2, and
also circular knit fabrics of polyester,
polyamide or elasthane blends.
As with the earlier models, the
Montex 6500 has been supplied by
Monforts Turkish representative,
Masters Tekstil, which also provides
training and maintenance services.
The future of the industry here
in Turkey lies in quality, confirmed
Mr Arin. Other producing countries
can manufacture in bulk, but Turkey
has the reputation for quality and
fastness of service. Consequently,
companies like ours have to not only
maintain their quality, but also continually strive towards improvement.
Carlos is optimistic that ITMA will

convince the remaining operations to
continue.
He is also hopeful that it will educate young people that the industry
not only has a future but is a worthwhile career after so many years as
being a dirty job.
In closing, Carlos sees a future for
the sixth generation of his family to
remain a successful operation but is
realistic to recognise that it will need
continued internalisation to succeed
and survive.
17
Custom made
solutions
Jan Frederic Bierbaum, MD.
As a result of advances in modern

textile technology including the installation of the first China-made
Montex 6500 in Germany the
Borken-based Bierbaum Group is
not only still producing in its home
country.
With an extensive range of processing machinery for knitting, weaving and the production of nonwoven
fabrics, the companys products are
highly successful in many areas of
technical textiles and home textiles.
Technical textiles are always
custom-made solutions intended for
a specific application and a tight-knit
18
cooperation between the supplier of

the raw materials, the manufacturer
of the parts and the end-user is key
when it comes to developing them,
says Managing Director Jan-Frederic
Bierbaum.
Product design is based on the
correct combination of the material
selection, the functional properties
required and the finishing processes
for the final product. Our success is
also based on the continuous optimization of our plants, so that we
can continuously offer higher-quality products at lower prices.
This strategy resulted in the
19
The Possehl Group
Open width knits
Possehl post record sales

Preliminary figures for
2010 fiscal year
Operating profit almost
quadruples further
Sales up to Euros1.72 billion
Positive net cash position
improves
Major acquisition activity
Favourable outlook for 2011
group investing more than 2 million at its plant in Borken in 2010,

including the new Montex 6500.
With a working width of 2.8m
and a length of 30m, the seven
chamber unit is operated in three
shifts around the clock and processing up to 80,000 m of fabrics daily.
It is the first in Germany to have
been manufactured at Monfongs,
the Monforts Chinese joint venture
which now employs 650 workers
and is headed by a professional
management team of German and
Chinese managers
To further increase versatility, the
machine at Borken has been supplied with a stand coating device, allowing specialist materials such as
the dot-coated cleaning towels for
industrial kitchens which are a Bierbaum Group speciality to be produced in-line.
The line is also equipped with an
integrated heat recovery unit via
which waste heat produced in the
thermal process, and contained in
the exhaust, air is discharged via exhaust air ducts directly into a heat
exchanger.
Given current energy costs, producing as efficiently as possible is a
decisive factor, says Mr Bierbaum.
The energy consumption of all our
machines is closely monitored and we
20
are also exploring methods of developing more cost-effective solutions. If

a machine pays off within two to four
years, then we will buy it.
The installation of the latest
Monforts stenter and complementary technology made a positive contribution to Bierbaum Groups
greatly improved 2010 turnover of

118 million a figure the company believes will be considerably
exceeded in 2011, as a result of its
very healthy order book.
We have always used Monforts
stenters and are very satisfied with
them, says Mr Bierbaum. The new
machine is running well and without

any hitches. The automation of such
machinery along with the dedication
and motivation of our staff here in
Germany, has resulted in our production costs becoming lower, while
at the same time, reliability has increased.
Possehl closed its 2010 fiscal year

with the best operating result in its
163 year history as a company; leaving the crisis wracked 2009 definitively behind it. The preliminary
earnings before taxes (EBT) is
approximately 81 million. The EBT
almost quadrupled year-on-year to
exceed the record set in 2007 by almost 8%. All of the corporate
divisions realised profits, having
emerged from the crisis stronger
than before.
Possehl benefited from the recovery of the global economy but
this outcome was also attributable
to the Companys having responded
in decisive fashion to economic
slowing early on and to its pursuing
a corporate strategy oriented around
sustainability and stability.
Consolidated net sales also
reached a new high at 1.72 billion.
The Possehl Group is therefore back
on track for long-term growth, after
only one year of decline. Sales rose
the strongest in the domestic market, which now accounts for well
over 50% of total sales.
Excluding acquisitions, sales
were up almost 33%, exhibiting
much faster growth than most industries in Germany. In addition to
rising orders across nearly all the divisions, the higher prices for commodities and precious metals, for
gold in particular, boosted sales.
In fiscal year, six acquisition projects were successfully concluded.
Acquisitions were made in all of the
three categories of new divisions,
complementary acquisitions and
SME acquisitions.
The purchase of the BWE SYSTEC group, a leading provider of
mailroom systems worldwide, created an entirely new division.
The Pretema GmbH acquisition

complemented our Electronics division. Going forward this firm is to
be the management company for
this division.
Four important acquisitions were
also made in the German SME sector in the fall of 2009 for the newly
established SME Investments division: Hirtler Seifen GmbH, Karl Otto
Knauf (GmbH + Co.

KG), Kleine Wolke Textilgesellschaft mbh & Co.
KG. and DMA Maschinen- und Anlagenbau
GmbH & Co. KG.
According to Uwe
Lders,
Executive
Board Chairman of L.
Possehl & Co. mbH,
the company had a
successful year in
2010 and today the
Group is in a stronger
position than ever before, with all divisions
contributing to the
overall success of the
Group without any dependencies or disappointment.
We also took advantage of acquisition
opportunities to expand our portfolio of
businesses. The Possehl Group is now
even more broadly
based and unconstrained by trends in particular industries, regions or corporate
divisions.
We therefore have every reason
for optimism looking ahead to 2011.
Our excellent capitalisation and
liquidity also afford us opportunities
for sustained growth in the years
ahead including further acquisitions.
The Possehl Group

Today, the Possehl Group comprises 130 companies spread
over nine highly diversified divisions, including Special Purpose Construction, Precious Metals Processing, Electronics
and Textile Finishing Systems.
It employs more than 8600 staff globally with almost half
of them in Germany. The company was founded more than
160 years ago and is headquartered in Lbeck, Germany.
Companies within the Group enjoy a great deal of independence in the way they operate with the holding company
focussing its activities on strategic and core functions necessary to manage the Group.
Indias
commission
dyers meet
demand for
open-width
knits
In order to meet demand for openwidth knits, Indias commission
dyers in the countrys main
knitwear centre of Tirupur which
provides up to 20% of the Nations
textiles export earnings are seeing the introduction of a new finishing concept with Montex
stenters.
R.Loganathan, Sri Gayathri Colours

Two commission dyers, Selvam
Process and Sri Gayathri Colours,
have both taken deliveries of Montex 6500 Indias first Chinese
built Monforts stenters to provide
heat settings treatment and finishing in response to exporters demands for open-width knitwear.
Compared with traditional tubular knits, open-width offers reduced wastage and a significant
improvement in quality.
Selvam Process
21
Technical Article
New developments in continuous

dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends
A paper prepared by Peter Tolksdorf, Head of Product Management for Dyeing
and Application, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen.
Peter Tolksdorf
Rising cost pressure remains a major
issue in the textile industry and especially textile finishing due to the
steadily rising cost of energy, water
and effluent treatment.
Dyeing of polyester/cellulosic wovens and knitgoods is typical of
where the problems are encountered. Established methods of dyeing these blends are extremely time
and cost-intensive.They require large
amounts of water and chemicals
Reactive dyes, cotton
Alkali required to fix the dye
pH 10.8-13.5
Sensitive to reduction
Fixation of damp goods

Cotton yellows at elevated
temperatures
and use a considerable amount of
energy.
This paper focuses on continuous
dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends with
reactive and disperse dyes. As well
as outlining the problem, it presents
an alternative method which is of in-
terest on both ecological and economic grounds.

Fibre and dye-specific
properties
To understand why so much effort is
spent on dyeing PES/cellullosic
blends despite the problematic cost
situation, it is worthwhile looking at
some fibre and dye-specific aspects.
active dyes. Vat dyes are popular for

all shades in Europe, e.g. for highquality workwear.
However, globally the PDTPS
process with reactive and disperse
dyes is the most common (Fig.3).
Chemicals required for the
PDTPS process (guide recipes):
Fig.2
pH
Disperse dyes, PES
Sensitive to alkali
pH 4-6
Reductive clearing is
necessary to optimise
fastness properties
Fixation of dry goods
at 200 -220 C
Reactive dyeings have to be fixed in
an alkaline medium usually soda ash
alone or in combination with caustic
soda are used to set the pH at 10.813.5. This greatly reduces the yield
of common disperse dyes (Fig. 1)
Fig.1
22
Sensitivity to reduction
Some reactive dyes are extremely
sensitive to reducing agents. This
sensitivity is found at all steps in the
process, especially after application
of the dyes. Although some disperse
dyes are sensitive to reduction during the dyeing phase, reductive
clearing is normally carried out after
dyeing as it improves the fastness

properties of the dyed substrate.
Fixation conditions
Reactive dyes are water-soluble and
are therefore fixed to the cellulosic
fibre in a moist medium. In conventional continuous dyeing methods,
that means fixation in saturated
steam.
However, the disperse dyes used
for PES are fixed by thermosoling, i.e.
at temperatures of around 210-220
C. Cellulosic fibres have a tendency
to discolour in such conditions (Fig.
2)
As a result of these completely
different dyeing requirements, multistep processes using several liquors
have been developed for continuous
dyeing of PES/cellulosic blends in
order to ensure that the optimum
conditions are achieved for each
fibre. Worldwide, the pad-drythermosol-pad-steam
process
(PDTPS) has become established.
This method is used to dye the
cellulosic fibres with either vat or re-
1st bath (disperse dyes)

2
g/l dispersing agent
2
g/l
wetting agent
10-20
g/l
antimigrant
2nd bath (reduction clearing)
30
g/l
hydrosulphite
50
ml/l
NaOH 50%
3rd bath (reactive dyes)
2
g/l
wetting agent
10-20
g/l
antimigrant
4th bath (alkali)
20
g/l
3-10ml/l NaOH
250-300 g/l
5th bath
2
g/l
soda ash
50%
salt
soaping auxiliary
The complexity and unusually high

chemical requirements are striking.
Both aspects are problematic for textile mills.
1. The complexity of the process reduces reproducibility both in lab-to-
bulk transfer and between batches.

It is easy to see that each step in
the process contains the potential
for errors both in the lab and in
production.
The large number of different
process steps also makes high demands on logistics and planning. Reductive clearing is a good example.
Unless this step is carried out in a
separate steamer/washer, careful
cleaning of the machine is necessary
to prevent problems in subsequent
process steps which are sensitive to
reduction.
The high chemical requirements
mainly relate to the use of electrolytes, generally common salt or
Glaubers salt. These chemicals are
needed to minimise bleeding of the
unfixed reactive dye into the alkaline
bath, which would result in inadequate build-up. However, the use of
common salt or Glaubers salt has a
number of disadvantages:
Common salt is frequently used
to minimise costs, but the quality
available on the market varies considerably. Poor quality salt often contains large amounts of calcium and
magnesium salts causing hard
water.
The quality of Glaubers salt
tends to be more constant but the
amounts required corrode concrete.
Dissolving the required concentration of 250-300 g/l is time-consuming and labour-intensive.
Production costs are a core aspect of production planning. However, these aspects make the costs
very difficult to calculate. The absolute amount of water, chemicals
and energy can be measured or calculated. In particular, an objective
comparison of different processes is
possible.
Basic data
Article:
Weight:
Liquor pick-up
PES/CO
315 g/m
60% in dye
bath and 70%
in chemical bath
Machinery utilisation:
70-90%
depending on
type of machine
Batch size:
1,200 m
Output per day:
20,000 m
Fig.3
The calculation assumes optimum

planning, i.e. production of pale then
dark shades, without additional exchange of liquor in the washing unit
or intensive intermediate cleaning of
the padder or steamer.
Under these conditions, daily
output in the PDTPS process requires
around 1.5 tonnes chemicals and
280 m3 water, plus the cost of energy, i.e. electricity, gas and steam,
which evidently depends on the energy concept used in the mill.
It is already clear that this an expensive method, which is also prone
to human error because of the large
number of process steps involved.
The following factors explain why
this process is nevertheless very
widely used around the world:
Separate process steps permit the

use of a wide range of reactive and
disperse dyes
Economic recipe costs
Reductive clearing means that very
brilliant shades can be dyed
However, there is also a long list of
potential drawbacks:
Time-consuming
Very expensive process in total
Labour-intensive
Very high water consumption
Very high energy requirements
Very high chemical requirements
Very high investment costs
Prone to errors
High environmental impact
On both ecological and economic
Fig.4
grounds, it is therefore advisable to

look for alternative processes.
So what alternatives are available?
Alternative 1:
The PDTPS process with vat and disperse dyes (Fig. 4)
As the vat dyes are reduced to
their leuco form, reductive clearing
is not necessary. This saves time,
water and energy. Since fastness is
extremely high, this is the standard
process for high-quality workwear.
The disadvantage is the large
quantity of hydrosulphite and caustic soda required. The reduction in
water and energy consumption normally has to be set against possibly
higher recipe costs compared to dyeings with reactive/disperse dyes.
Alternative 2:
This process uses selected pigment
dyes followed by drying and curing.
Washing off is not usually necessary.
Because washing is not required
makes the process very economical.
However, build-up is restricted. The
PES fibre is often hardly shaded and
the handle is limited. The idle time
will also increase because of precipitations on the guiding rollers.
One-bath process
Apart from the methods outlined
above, there is not yet any real alternative on the market. However, it
is clear that the optimum method
23
Technical Article
Fig.5
Application of all necessary products

from one bath
No reduction in the degree of fixation of the reactive dye compared
with the standard process
No reduction in the yield of disperse
dyes
No yellowing of cellulosic fibres
Fastness properties that meet market requirements without reductive
clearing
Single bath liquor application

Drying + thermosoling
Washing-off/drying
Fig.6
from the ecological and economic
viewpoint is most likely to comprise
one-bath application of reactive and
disperse dyes.
Since this is so obvious, there
have been many attempts in the
past to find a suitable one-bath
process.
Back in 1967 Kuth/Hildebrand
(Bayer AG) described a one-bath
thermosol-thermofixation process
(TT process) using disperse and reactive dyes.
In 1977 ICI (later Zeneca) published the NT (neutral thermofixation) process based on specially
developed Procion T reactive dyes
that could be fixed in neutral conditions. This was followed by process
recommendations
based
on
dichlorotriazine reactive dyes.
Due to their very high reactivity,
these dyes (Procion MX) could be
fixed with extremely small amounts
of alkali. ICI also published the RTN
process, which used sodium bicarbonate and urea to apply Dispersol
and Procion CX dyes (monochlorotriazine reactive groups).
Again, this was essentially a conventional thermosol-thermofixation
process.
Finally a patent (P 28 09 675.5)
submitted by Bayer AG in 1978 described a process for one-bath dyeing of PES/cellulosic fibres in neutral
conditions.
The idea behind all these
processes was that the thermosol
phase could be used to bond the reactive dyes to the cellulosic fibre.
However, interaction with auxiliaries
such as urea and dispersing agents
and the disperse dyes could not be
entirely excluded. Besides, they all
required the use of dicyandiamide,
24
which is not always available and

also has very limited solubility.
In the end, none of these
processes became widely established on the market. This may have
been partly because water and energy tended to play a less significant
role in the overall cost calculation
than they do today. However, the
main reasons probably related to
disadvantages at the production
stage, for example, inferior reproducibility, tailing, etc. and limited
fastness properties.
As outlined at the start of this
paper, the development of a new
process and new products therefore
needs to focus on the very different
requirements of cellulosic and polyester fibres. The objectives are:
A wide range of shades

This development was assisted by
very positive experience with the
Monforts Econtrol process, which
is widely used very successfully with
cotton and Viscose dyes.
Fig.8
The process for one-bath dyeing of

PES/cellulosic blends outlined here is
a further development of the Econtrol process.
The underlying principle is very
simple (Fig. 5).
The dye liquor contains all the dyes

and the chemicals required for fixation. The process uses high to
medium reactive dyes, for example,
Levafix or selected Remazol dyes,
which achieve an optimum dye yield
under these conditions. In other
Fig.7
words, there is no reduction in yield

compared with conventional
processes.
Selected disperse dyes are used
for the PES component in the
blend. These products ensure optimum build-up in the specific Econtrol T-CA conditions.
Other additives are fixing auxiliary and process conditioner to ensure optimum fixation conditions
for both reactive and disperse dyes.
This guaranties reproducible results
in both the lab and production.
After application of the dyes, the
goods are dried and thermosoled in
special Econtrol conditions.
After thermosoling, the goods
are fed directly into the washing
unit. No further fixation steps are
required.
Special dispersing auxiliaries
have to be added to the wash-off
liquor to make sure the dyeing
meets the required fastness specifications.
After washing off, the goods are
dried and processed as usual. The
reminder here is that any type of
additional thermal treatment can
result in thermomigration and affect the fastness of the disperse
dyes.
costs.
The consumption data for the
Econtrol T-CA process clearly
demonstrate its benefits: because it
does not use separate baths and reduction clearing is not necessary,
the process saves large amounts of
chemicals, water and energy. The
example given above shows a reduction of 86% in chemical consumption based on daily production
of 20,000 m. The process also uses
63% less water and 49% less energy (Fig. 6).
These data are reflected in production costs. On this basis, the
fastness requirements for PES/cellulosic vary greatly, depending on their

use.
The objective of the Econtrol TCA process was not to develop a
solution for these highly specialised
areas of workwear and sportswear.
For these articles, it is more effective to use specialities developed
specifically for such applications, i.e.
vat dyes for cellulosic fibres and selected disperse dyes for polyester.
The following ISO 105 fastness
tests were tested on a variety of
materials and shades (multifibre
adjacent fabric), with concentrations of up to 30 g/l dye.
Light fastness B02
Wash fastness C01 (40 C)
Wash fastness C02 (50C)
Wash fastness C03 (60C)
Wash fastness C06 C2S (60 C
with perborate)
Water fastness, severe, E01
Perspiration fastness alkaline +
acid E04
standard process. Similarly, wash

fastness tested in accordance with
ISO
105
C01/C02/C03
(40C/50C/60C) complies fully
with the requirements for apparel
(Fig. 8).
In the C06 C2S wash fastness
test, the specimen dyed using this
process showed significant staining
of polyamide in the multifibre adjacent. However, there was virtually
no difference compared with the
reference sample (with reduction
clearing) (Fig. 9).
Water fastness, severe, and perspiration fastness (acid and alkaline) are equal or slightly below the
reference dyeing (max. grade).
Conclusion
Econtrol T-CA is a new, one-bath
dyeing process for continuous coloration of PES/CO blends.
A combination of dyes, newly
selected reactive and disperse dyes
and process auxiliaries, combined
Fig.9
Economic and ecological

aspects
Economy and ecology are often regarded as mutually exclusive in textile finishing. There is a tendency to
believe that solutions that are ecologically acceptable entail higher
costs.
The Econtrol T-CA process shows
that precisely the opposite is true.
Obviously, reducing the amount
of chemicals, water and energy required reduces their impact on both
the environment and operating
Econtrol T-CA process provides

nearly 50% lower cost than standard production processes (Fig. 7).
Colour fastness
The objective for Econtrol T-CA was
to develop an ecologically and economically acceptable process without any concessions in respect of
wet fastness. However, the colour
Different blend ratios of Polyester

and Cotton were used.
Fastness properties
The benchmark for the quality of
this process is comparison with a
two-bath dyeing with reduction
clearing.
No difference was observed in
light fastness compared with the
with the Econtrol Thermex hotflue,

can be used to dye a wide range of
shades whilst making enormous
savings in process costs, with sufficient fastness properties.
Simple process regulation and
carefully matched components ensure highly reliable recipes and thus
good reproducibility.
Thermex, Econtrol, Levafix, Remazol, are registered trademarks.
25
India | Continuous dyeing range
Continuous dyeing range with Econtrol

for NSL Textiles
Econtrol
The Econtrol process was developed for reactive dyestuffs to meet
the trend of smaller batch sizes per
colour in continuous dyeing and to
simplify procedures. The process is
a simple, quick and economical
one-pass, pad-dry-wash with drying in the Thermex hot flue at 120130C and controlled humidity to
obtain fixation in 2-3 minutes.
Benefits make it an ideal choice
for short or long batch dyeing offering a full colour range with excellent reproducibility.
An Indian company that has grown from its origins in the cotton seeds business to become the countrys
most vertically integrated textiles and garments manufacturer is using Monforts technology
with a purpose-ordered continuous dyeing range and Econtrol system - to achieve its aim of becoming one
of the top producers in India and to launch its own apparel brand for the retail sector.
NSL Textiles Ltd has installed a new
continuous dyeing range at its
newly opened plant that has been
constructed on a greenfield site at
Chandolu, near Guntur in Andhra
Pradesh.
The range comprises a Thermex
6500, two Monfortex 8000 sanforisers and two Montex stenters
equipped with coating heads, plus
an Econtrol system for further dyeing options.
All the Monforts equipment at
NSL has been supplied and installed by the representative for
India, ATE Enterprises Private Limited (ATEEPL).
The Chandolu mill was inaugurated in the second half of last year,
when all the equipment was installed with the exception of the
Econtrol, which was commissioned
earlier this year.
This is the sixth textiles plant operated by NSL, but the other five are
all spinning mills, and the Chandolu
mill is the first to process and dye
fabrics and consequently the first to
employ a production range of Monforts equipment.
cotton lint to garment manufacturing.

Investing in the highest quality
technology for textiles and garments production is simply a logi-
. This line
gives us the
capacity and fast
dyeing times that
we require.
Ajay Kumar Paturi, Director,

NSL Textiles
cal step for us, says Mr Paturi, who

has more than 30 years experience
in textile manufacturing.
We selected Monforts when
we first progressed into fabrics,
dyeing and garment production because it is the best. We decided on
a complete Monforts finishing and
dyeing line because we believe in
having just one manufacturer supply all the main equipment. "This
line gives us the capacity and the
fast dyeing times that we require."
Continuous dyeing
Monforts equipment is designed
for maximum conservation measures, which is another reason for
our using this technology.
Both Montex 6500 eight chamber stenters feature a number of
energy saving benefits including
roof-mounted, heat recovery systems and are for narrow-width fabrics of up to 180 cm. They are both
used for finishing and coating the
fabrics.
The range also features a 2
chamber Thermex 6500 Econtrol
which reduces to a matter of minutes the process that, if carried out
to conventional cold batch dyeing
methods, would normally take at
least 16 hours.
NSL Group
NSL Textiles is part of the Hyderabad-based NSL Group, founded in
1973 as Nuzeevidu Seeds Ltd and
which is now the largest cotton
seed company in India. NSL is a
producer of high-quality hybrid
seeds that supply some 45% of the
market and which produce some of
the best quality cotton in India.
No textile company can claim
to be as vertically integrated as we
are, says NSL Textiles director Ajay
Kumar Paturi. We describe ourselves as being from cotton to
clothing, and our production covers
everything from the extraction of
26
Top 3 target
Mr Paturi says the target is to be

amongst the top three fabric producers in India and to market at
least 50% of the fabric capacity as
garment packages.
The initial intention is to use the
new plant for 100% woven cotton
fabrics, later progressing to polyester-cotton blends. Fabric weights
handled will vary from 100 to 350
g/m2.
The plant has a capacity of
120,000 m of fabric per day, and,
working for at least 300 days per
year, has the capacity to produce
6,000 shirts a day.
Environmental considerations
are amongst our priorities, says
Mr Paturi, adding, We have a policy of zero effluent discharge. Guntur is prime agricultural land with
abundant water supply, and we
have built an effluent treatment
plant that is 100% effective in preventing any kind of pollution to the
very valuable resources here.
27
India | continuous dyeing range

In making the decision to move from Mumbai to its new spectacular purposebuilt production facility in Gujarat State, Indias vertical textile producer, Birla
Century had no hesitation in ordering continuous dyeing ranges and Montex
stenters for its process and finishing department.
If there was a prize for the worlds
best textile facility, Indias Birla Century would be a contender for its
new purpose-built production facility in Gujarat State.
The concept, the brainchild of
R.K. Dalmia, Senior President of
Century Textiles and Industries Ltd,
was that the vertical textile facility
would be world class throughout
construction and in the selection of
equipment, said U.C. Garg, Executive President (Purchasing and Projects); responsible for managing the
project from concept to completion.
Further, the textiles produced
must also rank with the best. We
also wanted to incorporate the latest technology and techniques offering maximum automation, he
added, continuing, We never wavered from these three principles

throughout the planning and implementation and had no hesitation
in ordering the Monforts equipment
for the new process and finishing
department.
The Groups first experience
with Monforts was in 1996 with
Century Denim taking delivery of a
denim finishing range. Following
their experience with smooth working and quality finishing we opted
for Monforts for the new Bharuch
facility.
The new installation includes
two Thermex continuous dyeing
ranges one each for narrow and
wide width fabrics, two Montex
stenters, a Monfortex sanforiser; all
ordered through local representative ATE Enterprises.

Installed as two lines to process
and finish up to 300 cm width fabric for bed sheets and 91-150 cm
narrow width for shirts and
trousers.
Greige fabrics are initially
singed, scoured and bleached, if required, before passing through the
respective Montex stenter line for
finishing as white cotton at speeds
of between 40 100 m/min.
Otherwise fabric is passed onto
the 4-chamber Thermex continuous
dyeing range, incorporating twin
padders one wide width and one
narrow width.
Two elevated VTG infrared dryers
reduce initial moisture content be-
fore entering the Thermex Hotflue.

Depending on the operating speed,
two further VTG gas-heated dyers
further reduce the moisture content.
Monforts continuous dyeing
ranges offer a quick dyeing and
heat setting time in continuous
mode of just three minutes, compared with up to 16 hours with
conventional cold batch dyeing in
discontinuous mode.
The fabric is then washed and if
wrinkle-free treatment is specified,
the fabric is fed into the 3-chamber
28
29
India | continuous dyeing range
Energy | Towers
Six Energy Towers for Nishat Mills

Nishat Mills has taken delivery of six Energy Towers the first in Pakistan ensuring significant energy savings.
Thermex featuring the MxL process.

The moist cross linking (MxL)
process is eminently suited for shirt
and bed sheet fabrics offering noniron, wrinkle-free properties. It is
ideal for continuous use on a hotflue.
A 10-chamber Montex stenter is
used for finishing the narrow widths
and an 8-chamber Montex for the
wide widths. Both stenters feature a

padder for softeners or other finishing treatments as specified.
The finished fabric is then passed
through the sanforiser for shrinkage
treatment if required.
A fully vertical operation including spinning, weaving, dyeing and
finishing, Birla Century produce a
wide range of 100% cottons and
linens plus blends with natural fibres

and cellular fibres, such as Tensil plus
cotton/linen blends.
The company is also just starting
to produce lycra products.
Operating 24/7, the company is
producing 65,000 70,000 m/day
for both the domestic and export
markets; including fabrics for their
own garment making operation.
The company is also able to meet

ISO, ASTM or AATCC international
standards as specified.
Century Textiles and Industries
Ltd is a BK Birla Group of Companies and was first incorporated in
1897 as a textile mill, later diversifying in various activities including
rayon, cement, paper and pulp.

U.C. Garg, Executive President (Purchasing & Projects), CenturyTextiles
and Industries, has been instrumental in managing the new facility
project in Bharuch from concept to fruition.
The decision to move from its established mill in Mumbai to the
new production facility was taken in mid-2000, at a time when
labour costs were increasing together with water and power rates,
large quantities of water were also becoming scarce for dyeing operations.
Joining Century 41 years ago as a Management Trainee, U.C.
Garg has witnessed tremendous changes during this period.
Probably the biggest being the advances in technology and the
reduction in manpower.
A few years ago we employed 7000 workers but today, with
automation, we are able to achieve the same production with 1250
workers.
Over the next 10 years I am certain that there will be even more
automation and technology advances.
30
To combat ever increasing energy

costs, Pakistans vertically integrated
fabric producer, Nishat Mills has
taken delivery of six Energy Towers
and installed them on three existing
Montex stenters at its Lahore finishing facility.With the heat recovery
system capitalising on the high temperatures of the exhaust air, savings
of up to 30% on energy costs can be
achieved.
Fresh air passing through the
towers heat recovery system is
heated by the exhaust air of the
stenter, before re-entering the stenters chambers.
According to Mr. Adil Ghani,
Nishat Mills General Manager
Plant, the company is very pleased
with the performance of the units.
He explained further, As everyone
knows, the energy position in Pakistan is very critical and also getting
expensive day by day. We need to
take all possible steps to save energy.
In order to meet these issues,
and because of the confidence in
Monforts technology and machines,
it was decided to purchase the Energy Towers for running alongside
the three existing stenters.
Ordered through the local Pakistan representative Al Ameen, all six
Towers were installed earlier this
year and, built as stand alone units
were installed alongside the stenters, two per stenter.
The Towers are each housed
within a 1.3 m x 1.7m x 2.9m high
enclosure. They have been designed
for retrofitting to existing stenters or
hot flues where access is restricted
above the units.
The exhaust air from the stenters
is 160 - 185C.
The Normal Room Temperature is
35. Before the Energy towers were
installed it was necessary to raise the
temperature from 35 to 160. Following the installation of the energy
towers, the new direct temperature
increased to 120, so requiring an
energy rise of just a further 40
Adil Ghani,
General
Manager-Plant,
Nishat Mills
60; ensuring considerable energy

savings.
According to Nishat, it is saving
Rs0.5 million/month (5000 Euros)
Calculations and figures have
predicted a payback period of less
than three years.
Each stenters production is approximately 96,000m/day. Over
three shifts this makes a total production of 288,000m/day. The
daily finished fabric for packing is
160,000m/day.
The stenters are used basically
for finishing, stretching and heat
settings.
Textiles
Nishat Mills Limited is the flagship
company of the Nishat Group which
was established in 1951. Its annual

turnover is Rs 48 Billion (US$ 550
Million). The Nishat Mills with the
production facility of 270,000 spindles, 740 looms, dyeing and printing
capacity of 7 million metres makes
Nishat the largest composite textile
setup in Pakistan.
Nishat Dyeing and Finishing
(NDF) is a purpose designed fabric
dyeing project with the capacity of
4.2 million m/ month and an annual
turnover of over US$120 million. It
is specially designed to handle heavy
weight fabrics such as twills, drills,
canvases, poplins, fabrics with minimum tension, such as stretch fabrics
and all high density weaves.
The fabric is mostly used for bottom wear, skirts, trousers, jackets,
dyed shirting
and work
wear.
The advantage achieved by the
customized design of its machines is
the result of an extensive research
work with the help of world
renowned machine manufacturers.
The standards are higher than ever,
dedicated by fashion, efficient productivity and further automation is
engineered in the plant.
Nishat Dyeing and Finishing is
considered to be one of the best and
largest dyeing plants in south East
Asia with a strong customer base. It
enjoys good relationships with all
major retailers of the world.Their extraordinary R&D work and highly
trained marketing and technical personnel are key to sustaining long
term business relationships.
Three lines of Thermosol continuous dyeing machines, with the capacity for dyeing with Vat, Reactive,
Sulphur and Pigment dyestuffs maintain the highest quality standards.
NDF installed two Thermosol
units in 2000, each with five chambers and a working width of 180cm.
A third Thermex was installed in
2006.
Two 10 chamber Montex stenters
were also installed in 2000, each
with a working width 200cm, followed by a third Montex 6000 in
2006.
All three stenters are oil heated
with the average production at 85 100m/min and an average of
270gsm fabric weight.
31
Monfongs | China
Teleservice
Linked to the world

08.00am
European Central Time
Bom dia Michael...
Its three in the morning in So Paolo
and the night shift foreman of a
leading Brazilian textile manufacturer phones the Monforts Teleservice Department to request a service
check for one of his stenters.
08.05am
Hello Christoph...
As lunch time approaches in
New Delhi, a dyehouse manager is
worried that his machine may overheat as the temperature in India
climbs. Hes guided through the procedures to prevent a breakdown.
08.10am
Good afternoon
Wolfgang..
Its past two in the afternoon in
Shanghai and this customer needs a
range of settings to be virtually
checked.
08.15am
Merhaba, good
morning, could I speak
to Michael please? Its
Ahmet in Ankara.
Weve been running
the morning shift for a
couple of hours now
and I need him to just
look at something for
me.
and evaluating trend diagrams. In

addition, software updates for machine control, visualisation and drive
systems can be updated directly
from the office in Mnchengladbach
and programme errors eliminated.
The team of highly-trained specialists provides a vital lifeline to operators and its a service thats
appreciated by many customers, explains Michael Sieberichs.An energy
electronics technician, he has been
with the department for approaching two years, having previously
worked in the Monforts workshop.
Im responsible for Europe,
Africa and Central and South America and my colleague Christoph Rtten deals with enquiries from North
America, Asia and Australia, he
says. We receive a wide range of
technical queries and initially try to
help over the phone. Our teleservice
is the second step and generally enables problems to be solved quickly.
If a problem cannot be solved, of
course, Monforts sends out a fitter
because here is where all the strings
come together for the fitters. We
meticulously plan for our field service
around the world and of course support the teams from here.
Over 50 calls are received every
day, and an even greater number of
Happy in Shenzhen
but hold the snake!
For Jens Paul, a move to China
eight years ago has resulted in
great happiness both at home and
at work.
Firstly, the textile machine engineer found employment with Monfongs, the Monforts Chinese joint
venture partner, and then he fell in
love at first sight with Min Zhou,
who is now his wife.
Today, the happily married couple have a young son and live in
Shenzhen, where Monfongs also
has its headquarters.
Jens Paul
Michael Sieberichs
emails are responded to.
There are days when the telephone never stops ringing, says
Michael, but I wouldnt change
jobs again.
The demands of his role have
certainly become a little easier with
the introduction by Monforts of improved remote visualisation for the
companys machines, with a better
screen view and much easier operation.
As a result mill managers no
longer need to be in front of their
machines, but can carry out the

checks and measures on handheld
devices such as iPads or mobiles.
Alarms also now alert them to the
condition of their machines.
None of this, however, stops the
phone from ringing for Michael
Sieberichs and his colleagues in
Mnchengladbach for long. As if on
cue, another call comes through...
08.25am
Bom dia!
There are 40 land timezones

across the world and in an average
day, Michael Sierberichs and his
team at the Monforts Teleservice Department cross all of them many
times and in any number of languages and their combinations.
The department in Germany is
available for customers from seven
in the morning to seven in the
evening, with a satellite office in Indonesia handling enquiries throughout Germanys night. Services range
from checking a range of settings
and troubleshooting sensors and actuators to solving drive problems
32
The joint venture employs 650

workers and is headed by a professional management team of German and Chinese managers until
recently it has manufactured specifically for the Chinese market, relying on proven Monforts technology,
and Jens is responsible for quality
assurance.
China and Germany are worlds
apart in some ways, he says. At
work there is a strictly hierarchical
way of thinking and doing things
that often takes some getting used
to for Europeans. People are used

to doing as they are told and
bosses deciding on the strategy.
That is the way things have been
done in China for generations, and
as a result it is sometimes difficult
to encourage people to do things
on their own initiative.
At the same time, he notes,
many young Chinese engineers opt
to do their training in Germany and
this is reflected in the successful development of Monfongs.
Made in Germany has a global
reputation for excellence in machine engineering, says Jens, but
Germany also has two other big advantages for Chinese engineers
doing their training in the country
good cars and good beer!

Monfongs has built more than
1200 stenters over the past ten
years and developed a new version
at the plant which was introduced
worldwide two years ago.
Building on this success and the
skill of its German-trained engineers, Monfongs is also now building high quality Montex 6500
machines. This means that customers can order a machine with
standard componentry featuring
state-of-the-art German engineering, but manufactured in China on
high-tech machine tools at an attractive and competitive price.
These machines are built to the
same guaranteed high standards as
the European-built models and
offer the same key features, including sliding doors and integrated
heat recovery.
The Montex 6500 stenter can
also be ordered through the Austrian Montex manufacturing facility
if preferred. Wide width stenters,
coating ranges and special versions
continue to be built exclusively in
Austria.
Another cultural difference between Europe and China, of course,
is food.
The food in China is very different to that in Europe, says Mandarin-speaking Jens. Ive tried
turtle and snake, but cant say they
were to my taste. Generally, a great
deal of meat and steamed vegetables are eaten and meat is available in any number of variations. In
a huge city like Shenzhen there are
also fast food chains such as McDonalds, of course, where the differences arent so large, although I
prefer the lighter Chinese food.
What has most surprised Jens during his eight years in China, however, is the pace of structural
change.
This is happening not only in
cities like Shenzhen, but also in the
more rural provinces too. We recently visited the in-laws who live
quite traditionally in the country,
and I would never have thought
modernisation would start to creep
in in such places, but it is, China is
investing enormously in its infrastructure everywhere.
33
Austria | Montex
Wide-width textiles
No Massifs in
Shenzhen
All wide width and special purpose
Monforts stenters including the latest Montex 8000 to be introduced
at ITMA 2011, in addition to sanforising and continuous dyeing
ranges, are manufactured at Montex, the groups subsidiary located
in St. Stefan, in the Lavanttal Valley
in the central southern Austrian
Alps.
And right now, business is
booming to such an extent that
for Karl Charly Krammer there has
been little time to pursue his love
of outdoor sports.
We are snowed under with orders at the moment, he reports,
and we are working non-stop and
at full capacity. Almost one hundred
per cent of our production is exported, with the bulk of the machines going to the Far East,
Pakistan and Turkey.
The machines made by the employees at Montex are manufactured in easily transportable
components, he explains, and
shipped via Bremen or Hamburg to
be assembled at the plant of the
customer.
As a trained machine fitter,
Charly began his apprenticeship at
Monforts in 1978 and moved into
field service in 1987. He is now coordination manager of production
and also responsible for providing
technical support to the Monforts
joint venture in China.
In this role he flies to Shenzhen
every couple of months and when
in China is generally busy around
the clock. But even when he does
have free time, theres another
problem.
Shenzhen, located in the Pearl
River Delta, bordering Hong Kong
to the south, was originally a hilly
area, but after becoming a special
economic zone in 1979, underwent
a tremendous change in landscape.
The once hilly fishing village is now
replaced by mostly flat ground with
very few area of elevation.
on my doorstep, but there are no

mountains there, so where can I go
climbing? Charly asks.
Free climbing without the active
use of hooks or other aids is real
mountaineering, he adds, and such
is his commitment to the sport that
even a recent ski-ing accident in
which he broke his shin and tore his
cruciate ligament wont stop him
from returning to it, once vital muscles have been rebuilt.
And the injury fortunately hasnt stopped him performing his vital
duties for Montex, despite usually
requiring weeks of rest.
I got around on crutches for
ten weeks without a plaster cast
and now I can get around on me
bike, he says, but climbing is still
out of the question. For the time
being, at least, and not in Shenzhen.
Taking the lead in Indonesia

Indonesias Asia Citra Pratamas new purpose-built, wide-width textiles mill has
the countrys first Monforts 3.2 m wide Montex Stenter
Although an established family
owned business, the next generation
of Asia Citra Pratama brothers
Hendra and Henky Tedjawisastra
are taking the Indonesian textiles
company into a new direction, producing wide-width, quality home
textiles.
The companys origins date back
to 1986 when the brothers parents
Mr and Mde Aries Tedjawisastra
took over an established company
dating back to the 1970s. Based in
Bandung, the original company provided printing for narrow width cotton linen and shirts for the domestic
market.
From these small beginnings, the
company has diversified into dyeing
and finishing to produce 1.5 million
m a month for ladies fashion wear.
But, Asia Citra, as an inner city
textile mill, found the same expansion problems experienced by other
fabric producers extra space and
compliance with environmental issues.
Karl Charly Krammer
Wide width demand
Hendra Tedjawisastra
Surrounded by residential and
commercial properties meant no additional land was available for expansion.
The company has therefore located to a 2ha green field site in
Karawang, some 80km north of
Bandung and 55km south of
Jakarta.
Complying with the latest environmental green regulations, the
new factory has its own water recycling facility, filtering water before
passing it through to the industrial
complexs own recycling operation
to ensure totally clean water.
In setting up the new facility, the

brothers recognised the potential in
Indonesia for producing wide-width
bed linen fabrics.
So with new equipment incorporating the latest technology, we
should quickly become one of the
best, to lead the way. We will initially concentrate on the domestic
market, perfecting the quality and
then actively seek international
markets wherever it is, focusing
on bed linen.
The company had originally considered purchasing second hand
equipment as a reduced investment.
We then considered Chinese
equipment which although less

expensive than European manufacture, we questioned if it would
meet environmental issues and perhaps lacked the latest energy saving technology and robust-build.
In the end we opted principally
for European equipment for the
partnership and support back-up.
Start of production
Back in 1990, the company installed its first Montex stenter in
Bandung.
Today confirmed Hendra, It
is, after 20 years, still providing fantastic service.
When we looked at equipment
for the new mill, we chose another
Montex with confidence and, with
a 3.2 m width, it was a real bonus.
Hendra accepts that there is a
tough job ahead but with such a
highly populated market, demand
will be high and increase.
At home, the Massifs are virtually
34
35
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world of textiles

References Worldwide issue twelve www.monforts.com

The ever increasing costs of utilities including water,

Feeling at home already

ATEs strength helps Monforts grow in India

The trend is towards

Special focus will also be

The Possehl Group

Indias commission dyers meet demand for open-width knits 21

On behalf of our Customer Services Department we

New developments in continuous dyeing of PES/

Amongst the worlds best

world of textiles issue twelve

Linked to the world

Feeling at home already

are very grateful for that support.

here they are much closer together.

Administration building ground floor

fluent French and English.

From Schlafhorst days, we had a

world of textiles issue twelve

between the employees has become

Sieberichs, who works in after-sales

Asia and Australia.First of all we try

hand within sight of each other. The

Frank Studlarek agrees. He

Administration buildingsecond floor

delivery comes together. But first to

panys service division.

Along with her other colleagues in

simply as Hein and has been

takes place. It is here that the drive

Esser is working with Pro/ENGINEER, parametric 3D-CAD software

world of textiles issue twelve

Italian textile producers reap benefits of

tion in the 8-chamber Montex 6500

back period of around just 12

world of textiles issue twelve

Germany | Technical Textiles

All new Montex solution

portation sectors to aluminium, glass

world of textiles issue twelve

Germany | Technical Textiles

ATEs strength helps Monforts grow in India

all-dancing solution, and Monforts

to ensure there is no scratching to

160 million and 1,300 employees

Bavaria has 60 employees, with

world of textiles issue twelve

Indias growing economic prosperity

sales,marketing and after sales

has the largest stenter population in

Gurudas Aras, director,

began looking for complete end-toend solutions.

has helped to open the Indian market

Indonesia | Special finishing

the superior quality, robust strength

colour particularly with camouflage

world of textiles issue twelve

Monforts technologists a hidden gem

As the former industrial base for

to re-establish ourselves with a new

chemical and environmental and

ample, only have workloads assured