Está en la página 1de 33



A Thesis
Presented to
The Faculty of the Fashion Design Program
Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and Design
Philippine Women’s College of Davao
Davao City

In Partial Fulfillment
of the Requirements for the
Degree in Bachelor of Fine Arts
in Fashion Design

Marri Leane Kaye A. Bentinganan
March 2014


submitted by Marri Leane Kaye A. Bentinganan in Partial Fulfillment of the
Requirements for the Degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts, Major in Fashion Design,
Philippine Women’s College of Davao Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and
Design, is hereby accepted.

Approved by the Panel of Oral Examination in the Philippine Women’s
College of Davao Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and Design, with a grade
of ________________.






Philippine Women’s College of Davao
Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and Design

and the many possible changes that can happen.” His Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies last 2003 held at Carousel de Louvre in Paris France awarded with citation turned out to be the reference point to conceptualize this designer’s interpretation for a ready-to-wear cruise collection for women. “His designs are the artist&rsquo. the designer was challenged to study and explore one of the most important collections by Dubai-based fashion designer Garimon Escandor Roferos. to push forward and thread our thoughts and stories. This study is also part of the on-going efforts of the Fashion Design Program of the Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts & Design to encourage students to acquaint themselves with Mindanaoan designers who have made .s handwriting of the times that we live in.Chapter 1 Introduction To come up with a capsule collection. An experiential study on Roferos’ idea of integrating weaved-associated element into his modernize collection is the basis to construct my own experimental interpretation that will be establishing a 5 piece apparel collection. a mirror of costume and society. consisting of a 5-piece women’s wear cruise apparel collection. if we only allow ourselves. This study will allow me to present a new look to the Philippine butterfly of our ancestors. According to Manila Bulletin. like Garimon. Younger and vibrant designs will be made to the benefit of the modernized society.

retailable yet cohesive women’s wear collection. A mentoring-partnership with identified designers. Purpose of the Study The purpose of this study is to explore and understand the prevailing hand weaving technique motifs in Mr. Roferos’ Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies will serve as a reference for the conceptualization of my interpretation. Roferos’ clothing to be able to reinterpret it in my own collection as inspired by the said theme. Specifically. Mr. mostly alumni of the longrunning Moda Mindanao and Urog Etnika Fashion Design Competitions. further pushed this study to engage students in the professional practice of designers by developing their own concepts and further translating them into a capsule collection as inspired by specific bodies of work of the said designers. Rofero’s Hand Woven Lilies haute couture clothing into a more practical. . This study will also challenge me to transcend the inspired motifs from Mr.their presence felt and their works acknowledged in the global fashion industry.

” . “Starting out as a backyard industry nearly a decade ago.” But as an added demonstration of the plant’s artistic and commercial uses. scarves. What are the inspirational designs of his collection? 3.Research Questions 1. the festival also featured a beauty pageant wherein contestants donned gowns fashioned completely from dried water lily stalks and leaves. What is the concept of Garimon Roferos? 2. How do I execute Garimon Roferos’ Hand Woven Lilies Haute Couture Clothing in my own cruise collection? Theoretical Lens There are already a lot of people using woven lilies for making baskets. and hair extensions but only a few of designers have thought that it can be also used to create apparel. “WEAR IT. bags. WEAVE IT Thursday’s Water Lily Festival in Las Pinas was both a trade and a fashion show highlighting the business potentials of the plant that grows in abundance in local waterways. Melican at Philippine Daily Inquirer. the water lily handicraft business especially in Las Piñas City is booming as more people take notice of the wide range of products that can be made out of the plant that grow in abundance even in urban waterways. In the beauty pageant where contestants donned gowns made of water lily stalks and leaves. According to Nathaniel R.

The book is entitled “The Lily Speed-O-Weave Loom Book. there is a book wherein there are instructions on how to weave. I have been challenged to further explore on how else can I transcend the fabric by not necessarily using only its fibers but also the stories that came by it in crafting my own version of an apparel collection as inspired by the elements from Garimon Roferos’ Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies .Other than that.” Looking at this factor.

The study aims to: 1. Roferos did painstakingly in the span of his career.Significance of the Study As a fashion design student and a Mindanaoan myself.) Incite consciousness and awareness in the market about the Hand Woven Lilies clothing design. 2.) Produce a cost efficient and comfortable collection based on the Hand Woven Lilies clothing .) Inspire appreciation in modern culture with regards to woven designs similar to Hand Woven Lilies clothing. I find this study relevant in grounding my aesthetics back to my Mindanaoan roots like how Mr.) Gather information specifically about the technicalities and techniques used to produce the Hand Woven Lilies clothing. Consequently he carved his niche in the industry as a weaved-inspired designer. 4.) To contribute in the existing pool of knowledge about Hand Woven Lilies clothing 5. 3.

to travel about without a particular purpose or destination. Weave. I was able to secure adequate records from the designer that allowed me to gather and establish a form of data to understand the logic behind his Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies. Retail.form (fabric or a fabric item) by interlacing long threads passing in one direction with others at a right angle to them.A trend is what's hip or popular at a certain point in time. for women Cruise. can produce about twenty different looks.strong and sail about on a pleasure trip. Vibrant. raiment. Capsule collection.the sale of goods to ultimate consumers.Delimitations & Limitations of the Study This study will be limited to tracing the specific body of work of the fashion designer Garimon Roferos. garments.A capsule collection is a set of apparel items by the same designer that when used together in different combinations. Definition of Terms Apparel. full of energy . usually in small quantities Women’s wear. There is only one piece of apparel. especially outerwear. Trend.

the research questions. delimitations and limitations and the definition of terms. This chapter contains the statement of the problem.Overview of the Study The first chapter of this research will tackle the brief background why this study was chosen by the researcher. the role of the researcher. . and the participants of the study. The fifth chapter will unveil the Cruise Capsule Designs as inspired by Garimon Roferos Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies. The fourth chapter will reveal the result and the information of the participants of the study. theoretical lens. the data sources and the data collection. The second chapter comprises the review of related literature. The third chapter contains the methodology and research design of the study.

Cartwright invented the power loom which could be operated from a single point. Other reasons for development of different clothing throughout the history are social status.Chapter 2 Related Literature HISTORY OF WEAVING Weaving is probably as old as human civilization. de Vaucanson made a loom. Clothing trends depend on location as well as historical findings suggest that Egyptians made woven fabrics some 6000 years ago. Power loom required stronger warp yarn. further developed by Jacquard. improvements were made in the winding and warping of yarns. The looms were improved further. invented in 1733 by Kay was hand operated. including warp tying machines and warp drawing-in machines. Chinese made fine fabrics from silk over 4000 years ago. to control each warp end separately. In 1745. cold) and look more "civilized" to the eye. Weaving started as a domestic art and stayed as a cottage industry until the invention of the fly shuttle. The processing principles of these looms were pretty much the today's shuttle looms. resulting in development of the first sizing machine in 1803. It is believed that the hand loom has been invented many times indifferent civilizations. In 1785. there were some 100. looms made of cast iron.000shuttle looms operating in England. In the early1800s. . One of the basic necessities of humans is to cover their bodies to protect themselves from outside effects (hot. The fly shuttle. In the early 20th century. religious requirements. were operated by steam power. In the 1830s. etc.

the modern textile industry began to emerge. stability and resistance to deformation by compression and tensile stress. Today.g. Invention of synthetic Fibers changed the scope of textile industry drastically. The fundamental principle of weaving has remained unchanged for centuries. respectively..After the end of the World War II. In1953 the first commercial projectile weaving machines were shipped. as in the past. (Sabit Adanur. 2012) FABRIC FORMING METHODS: . e. Production of rapier and air jet weaving machines started in 1972 and 1975. This method of producing textiles has many advantages. In 1930 an engineer named Rossmann developed the first prototype of projectile weaving machines. woven fabrics are made by crossing yams over and under at right angles to one and-other.

and beat up. 2. knitting. these are not called warps and fillings as in the case of woven fabrics. Practically. Each different way results in a different fabric structure. casts.Special needles are used to form the yarn loops. Each set of yarns moves in an opposite direction. There are two main types of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. Braiding does not require shedding. braiding. Knit fabrics are widely used in apparel and home furnishings. A braided fabric is formed by diagonal interlacing of yarns. composites. inwarp knitting. and nonwoven manufacturing. The yams do not have to go through harnesses and reed. tufting. Inweft knitting. the yarns flow along the horizontal direction in the structure (filling or course direction). They are also used in technical textiles. filling insertion. they flow along the vertical direction (warp or wale direction). such as artificial arteries (veins). 3. WEAVING: Weaving is the interlacing of warp and filling yams perpendicular to each other. etc. This feature provides unique characteristics to the knit fabrics compared to woven and braided fabrics. BRAIDING: Braiding is probably the simplest way of fabric formation. sporting equipment. there are an endless number of knit fabric structures. Braiding is generally classified as two . The basis of knit fabric structure is the continuing intersection of loops. 1. There are practically an endless number of ways of interlacing warp and filling yarns. Although there are two sets of yarns involved in the process. KNITTING: Knitting is inter looping of one yam system into vertical columns and horizontal rows of loops called wales and courses.The most commonly used fabric forming methods are weaving. respectively. bandages.1.

The fabric is usually back-coated in a later process to secure tufted loops. paper. Loops can be in the form of cut or uncut loops (piles) or a combination of thereof. In fact. usually a woven or nonwoven fabric. Three dimensional braiding is a relatively new topic. filaments. fibers. to form and bond polymers. or some combination of these technologies. extrusion. Each of these major fabric manufacturing processes produces unique structures. Around 40countries have major textile industries and another 50 countries produce woven fabrics in various amounts. 4. porous structure. Approximately 70% of the fabrics made in the world are woven fabrics. 5. A surface yam system of loops is "stitched" through a primary backing fabric. Big industries have evolved around each method of fabric manufacturing in almost every country in the world. The loops are arranged in vertical columns (rows) and horizontal lines (stitches). some nonwoven products are claimed by both the textile industry and paper industry. Two dimensional braiding includes circular and flat braids.dimensional and three dimensional braiding. BONDING / NON-WOVEN: Bonding is the method of manufacturing nonwoven’s using textile. 2012) . (Sabit Adanur. The resulting structure is quite different than the structures mentioned above. yams or combination sheets into a flexible. TUFTING: Tufting is the process of manufacturing some carpets and similar structures. and mainly developed for industrial composite materials. The application of two dimensional braiding is very limited in apparel manufacturing.

the purpose of a project brief is to develop fashion designer’s creativity to respond to a particular set of requirement. .THE PROCESS OF FASHION DESIGN: According to Jones (2002). The brief will usually tell fashion designer what the overall aims of the project are and what objectives fashion designer should be able to demonstrate by the end of the project to enable fashion designers to measure their own progress.

2002) CONSUMER BUYING BEHAVIOR: There are several factors found in literature to justify the buying behavior of consumers. not simply of computation. Identity. The main factors influencing the buying behavior of consumers are the following: Physical. You can’t compare us because we are doing what we want. Assessment is a matter of judgment. some do conceptual. Some are romantic things. Colleges encourage students to paint and draw from life and nature as primary source of design. Physical . and some do commercial. 2002). ● Presentation: A good presentation will give those who to see it a window onto a fashion designer’s thinking processes and clues as to the origination of fashion designer’s idea. (Jones. ● The critique and assessment: The critique is the occasion on which staff evaluate fashion designer’s response to the brief (Jones. designers must learn to keep their eyes and ears open. It is also an exchange of ideas. It is also an objective and a subjective assessment of how a fashion designer has fulfilled the requirements.● Inspiration: In their search for inspiration. ● Personal Creativity and style: People do their own thing. Lifestyle and Store Environment.

Body shapes as an important factor for customer deciding to buy a product. and they make their choices also considering aspects such as durability and easy care. individualism. and behaviors from the family and other important institutions. The physical change and deterioration of the body shape has to be addressed to ensure that the garments have appropriate fit for them and features are balanced to their body which is basically show to customer choose in the garment shop for SS. efficiency and practicality. a child learns basic values.The physiological factors relate to physical protection. Culture is the most basic cause of a person's wants and behavior. wants. youthfulness. freedom. and they look for innovation in their wearing way. The product novelty is a factor that fashion followers have into consideration. L. Every group or society has a culture. as consumers wish comfortable products to satisfy certain specific needs. children. XL or XXL. in each season they renew their wardrobes. activity and involvement. Product comfort is an important attribute. A person normally learns or is exposed to the following values: achievement and success. The usefulness is also a factor that consumers have in mind when buying garments. For example. functionality and the culture. for example. because. S. humanitarianism. Human behavior is largely learned. material comfort. balance. and . 1996). comfort. as they are in the process of growing up. Growing up in a society. and fitness and health. progress. they need garments suitable to their age and physical development (McNeal and Yeh. if they buy a garment that combines with those of their wardrobes. commodity and environment among people such as body shape. M. perceptions.

(Wikipedia. Often. (Eun Joo Park. The wish to be involved with fashion is an emotional factor that leads consumers to buy fashion clothes. as some of them choose a product simply by reliance. semi-formal or formal wear during traditional festivals and celebrations in Korea. as pleasure is subjective and personal. new sensations and. 2006. Fashion is based on mood and emotions as being aesthetically beautiful. a culture in Thai. In Japan. people looks for new stimuli. personal style. According to Tay (2008). 2011. these play a strong influence on consumer’s behavior in fashion clothing. as they want them to be modern and attractive. the purchase of fashion clothes is not done by need but for pleasure.) Identity Concerning Identity factors. the emotional factors being on the basis of consumer's feelings and emotions.) . mood. the behaviour of the modern consumer lies on looking for pleasure with the consumption experience itself. And the Hanbok. 2010. People will wear Thai dress like Sabai and Jong-kra-ben in an official Thai Style custom.cultural influences on buying behavior may vary greatly from country to country.) For example. Frequently. celebrities influence or even brand image. For example. conquering others. (Asifo Shah. consumption is thus oriented by the individual themself. culture will dress Kimono as Japanese traditional garment. people will have an opportunity to spend money for clothing when they feel good or satisfied with it.

defensiveness. Personality refers to the unique psychological characteristics that lead to relatively consistent and lasting responses to one's own environment. Clothing brand create the products and accessories in which people can suit their garment and socialize over a party such as necklace. and aggressiveness. earrings.Personality is another personal factor that influences purchasing. and relevance to a brand's image and the celebrity's influence on consumer buying behavior. to attract customers." Accordingly. and undoubtedly one of the effects of such media saturation is the pervasive transmission of celebrity ideals. different purchasing processes. For fashion trends to the way their dress. Mass media (TV. Factors such as self-confidence. clothing marketers have discovered that shopping people tend to be high on sociability. bag or shoes etc. since every consumer has a different personality. that is. Personality can be useful in analyzing consumer behavior for certain product or brand choices. movies. appeal. dominance. For example. adaptability. domain of himself. internet) pervade the everyday lives of people living in every societies. "we are what we have. Thus. (VIGNALI. It is usually described in terms of traits such as self-confidence. magazines. consequently. good fellowship and autonomy. the attractiveness of a celebrity's lifestyle can be the important factor that influence . advertisers have begun attempting to quantify and qualify the use of celebrities in their marketing campaigns by evaluating their awareness. The basic self-concept premise is that people's possessions contribute to and reflect their personality. 2011) Each person's distinct personality influences his or her buying behavior. More recently. sociability. define the individuals personality and. autonomy.

consumers would prefer buying brandname products (Bello and Holbrook. 1999). celebrities have become the trendsetters in fashion. Brand is a powerful tool to attract more consumers to buy particular products. interests and behaviors to follow the trend of fashion clothing. From red carpet award shows to celebrity gossip magazines. With a well known brand name. 1996).people's beliefs. have become popular not only in their country of origin. Several brands. consumers would appear to be more likely to purchase the products in much higher prices. 1995). Successful branding could make consumers aware of the presence of the brand and hence could increase the chance of buying the company’s products and services (Doyle. especially clothing. widen the profit margins. media coverage of "who" a celebrity is wearing can influence a person's decision to buy the latest designer clothing and accessories. As far as the same level of product quality is concerned. Having a strong and remarkable brand image could help establish an identity in marketplace (Aaker. (2004). encourage greater intermediary co-operation as well as increase the chance for further brand extension (Delgado-Ballester and Munuera-Aleman. Some may even regarded it as equity as it can add values to the products. under the influence of globalization and concerted efforts from media advertising. but also in other markets with high potential. consumers appear to rely on the brand image as long as they have little knowledge about the brand. In accordance with Delong et al. . 2005). In example.

style and quality of product. 2001). The characteristics or attributes of fashion products also influence purchasing.Lifestyle The way of life is another factor that influences the consumer buying behavior.. whereas while at home she will purchase informal garments like t-shirt. since they interfere on the value. quality. and price. (Hong et al. she will try to purchase business suits. organization etc. Occupation also influences garment purchasing decision. in a garment. It can be related to each person possesses different roles and status in the society depending upon the groups. like the line and look. family. Quality of clothing is considered as the main factors of consumer towards buying decision. Consumers frequently choose certain kinds of products. . Therefore her buying decisions will be influenced by her role and status. clubs. The design is also an important motivation for purchasing and consumption of fashion. one of finance manager and other of mother. as a given garment is intended to a given life style. 2002. since. As a manager of an organization. The consumer will look at the quality and durability of products that it can be used in a long time and appropriate to a price or not. Now she is playing two roles. to which they belongs. services and activities since these are associated to a certain life style such as profession. consumers give more and more relevance to aesthetical appearance. Wickliffe and Psysarchik. For example a woman is working in an organization as finance manager. among many others.

The acceptance of a product is reached when there is equilibrium between value and price that the consumer is willing to pay for it. instead of others (Paulins and Geisteld. marital status. 1994). 2003). the consumer considers a low price product the one that is outdated or with low quality. monthly income. as the higher it is. a person with low income and savings will purchase inexpensive clothes and neglect to an image of brand.Price is a factor that influences a lot the purchase of a product since consumers consider a better product the one with better price (Hanf and Wersebe. living place. In other words. On the other hand. age. Store Environment Store Environment is an important factor that influencing fashion shopper to decide in buying the garments. professional situation ally make an individual to choose certain brands or stores. Perception of the mall environment has been found to be an antecedent to . financial capacity is evidently a factor that influences the purchasing process. Shoppers’ perceptions of a store environment may also have an impact on their mood while shopping (Chebat and Michon. In general. For example. 2003). However. demographic factors. the higher the acquisition power and garment consumption. If the income and savings of a customer is high then they will purchase more expensive clothes and consider to a brand.

Fashion shopper will have positive behavior to buy the garment in the department store. where they are most likely to find the exact product they are looking for. 2000). Research suggest that ambient cues (physical aspects of store environment. 1994). 2005. hence they return to the shop they know best. Further.. A store environment can be an important basis for consumer’s evaluation of the products (Baker et al. Mall operators and retailers are recognizing more and more the positive impact of the environment on shopping behavior (Laroche et al. consumers’ perceptions of the store environment influenced their perceptions of product quality. which in turn. (1983) suggest that shoppers’ attitude towards a mall environment may be more important in influencing affective response than attitude towards a product. 2004). 2004). color. Darden et al. An effective mall shopping environment may increase shopping value and induce consumers to exhibit increased approach behaviors and staying longer in the mall (Stoel et al... (Chebat and Michon. Stoel et al. such as lighting. Moreover. 2003) Moreover. the consumer tend to be like store where locate near the house which is their behavior will lead to a high store loyalty. music.. and display.) and social cues (the perception of crowding and friendliness of employees) are important atmospheric factors that influence consumers’ affective states in the store environment. 1994).. Turley and Milliman..arousal (Baker et al. if there are good promotions and the discount period from the stores take place. The studies suggest that consumers’ mall perceptions influence their evaluations of the products available at the mall. etc. impact their shopping and purchasing behavior (Baker et al. because consumers tend to minimize the time of shopping. 1992. .

Chapter 3 Methodology The study will use a two level process in addressing the goals of the study. .

) Gathering of information relating to the Hand Woven Lilies clothing a. Gathering information with regards to the technical aspects of the design 2.1.) Production of a brand new collection based on Hand Woven Lilies clothing a. Sampling of different materials and fabrics to be used c. b. Learning techniques and styles of weaving that can be incorporated in the creation of the new collection Chapter 4 Interview results and background information of the participants of the study Interview Guide Questionnaire Fashion Designer . Interviewing the designer who forefront the Hand Woven Lilies clothing design b. Gathering information regarding consumer-behavior specifically targeted to young professional women.

1. How do you construct a design? 8. 3. What can you say about Garimon’ designs? 3. 4. How many years have you been in the fashion industry? What is fashion for you? How’s life in the fashion industry? What was your concept about Haute Couture Hand Woven Lilies Clothing? 5. How have you thought of using woven lily for the Haute Couture Hand Woven Lilies Clothing? 7. What are the inspirational designs of this collection? 6. Do you easily understand/recognize Garimon’s designs? 4. United Arab Emirates . How’s working for Garimon Roferos? Profiling of Persons Name: Garimon Roferos Age: 43 Address: Dubai. How do you define a good design? 9. What suggestions can you give for all those who are aspiring to be good fashion designers? Workers 1. Since when did you start working for Garimon Roferos? 2. 2.

However. . The fashion industry is so huge and is so highly incorporated into nearly every form of media that it is so hard to get away from. For him fashion is a statement not a style.Birthday: December 21. 1970 Status: Single Occupation: Fashion Designer Fashion Designer Garimon Escandor Roferos has been in the fashion industry for 25 years. According to him. Sometimes people aren't even aware that the media is influencing them to follow certain fashion trends. this is nearly impossible to do. some people believe that the fashion industry has nothing to do with them or their lives and they try to stay away from the influence of this industry.

The inspirational designs about the clothing were ecology and environment.His concept to his Haute Couture Hand Woven Lilies Clothing is weaving organic botanical material as a wearable piece. As what he said. He did a crazy weave. He defines a good design by its shapes and structures. a free way in hand woven work. He used Water Lily for his garment because thought about using new material for haute couture as a unique new piece. aspire and inspire. Workers/Designer Peer of Garimon Roferos Name: Peter Greg Recto Age: 30 Address: Buhangin Davao City . Fearless create new things in fashion designing focus and love your works.

As for him. 1980 Status: Single Occupation: Fashion Designer Worker/Designer peer Peter Greg Recto or “petra” as what they call him is one of the workers of Mr.Birthday: May 25. . Garimon Roferos and one of his peer designers as well. Roferos for almost 13 years until Mr. Roferos left for Dubai. it will only leave at least 40% of its design when the apparel is already done. Roferos do a sketch.” He explained that when Mr. “let the dress speak. For him. He also stated that Mr. He has been working for Mr. Roferos are unexpected. the designs of Mr.

Working for Mr. you will not really appreciate his work of art. You will be amazed on how he does his sketching and most of all when the product is already finish. .Roferos is a typical designer that when you cannot understand what couture is. Roferos will make you really expect the unexpected. Chapter 5 Cruise Capsule Designs as inspired by Garimon Roferos Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies.

from http://www.html SM City Davao ( from http://smglobalpinoy. Retrieved February 21. 2014.inquirer.inquirer. Retrieved February p=1996&type=2&sec=217&aid=11410 . smglobalpinoy. Water lily handicraft trade pays off in Las Piñ newsinfo. NOTABLE GLOBAL PINOY : GARY FILEMON “GARIMON” (2012). Artist of the Unexpected. 2014. Retrieved February 21. highbeam. from Manila Bulletin (2009).net. 2014. N.REFERERENCES Melican.).

.ierg.SoOmro. A Study of Imaginative Idea Generating Approaches of an Outstanding Student in Fashion Design Contest . suic. L.H. M.suic.Y. Khemarangsan. (2012). Feng. D.P. (N. A. Retrieved February 23.pdf APPENDICES .).academia. 2014. Retrieved February 23. M. 2014.php?id=357&cf=2 academia. A Study of Thai Consumers behavior towards fashion Clothing .edu/4064550/FM_2021_Study_manual_part_1 from http://www. 2014.. (N. ierg. from http://www. A.. FM 2021 Study manual part 1. from http://www. Chang.D.). Retrieved February 23.


Intereses relacionados