ISSN 1853-9610

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MENDOZA’S FREE MAGAZINE

Nº73 JunE-july 2015

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What to
do in

Mendoza

Winery
Guide

Homemade Wine

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contents
News Republic
The Vines of Mendoza........................................... 7
From Dust to Dust................................................... 7
Bottle it......................................................................... 7
How to make wine in your
bedroom in 10 easy steps
........................................................................................ 8
Getting rid of dead wood
The harvest may be done but
the real work is far from over............................ 12
Wishlist
Vino Casero................................................................16

On a Roll
Argentina’s greatest delicacies – the choripan... 17

House Wine
Community of Vino Patero......................................... 18
Out & About
Dining out.............................................................. 26
Winery Guide.......................................................... 28
Bars............................................................................. 31
Maps & More
Useful information................................................ 33
Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria............. 33
Map of Mendoza City Center.......................... 34

CREDITS
Issue June - july 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000
Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
E-mail: mariana@wine-republic.com
Editor: Charlie O’Malley
Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud.
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Circlan.com .
Gimena Federici - Jona Conti. jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Charles Pestridge. Victoria Mermoz,
Emilie Giraud, Martin Mariangeli y Fernando Mateo.
Illustrations: Donough O’Malley,
www.pencilrobot.net
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com

6

NEWS REPUBLIC
Bottle it

The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room has moved from
its city centre location to the vineyard splendour of Uco
Valley. Mendoza city is a lesser place, especially for the
traveling wine sleuth who could pop into this one stop
shop and try a great selection of wines by the glass. We
all now have to buy by the bottle until someone else
comes along and gives us a decent city wine bar. In the
meantime we would like to raise our glasses to the Vines
and the splendid service they have provided over the
years. The city closure compels all to go south and check
out the splendid winey resort which is a truly unique
5-star operation, a multi-label winery, villa style hotel and
Francis Mallman restaurant.

Runaway prices have Argentine wineries complaining
about the industry’s lack of competitiveness. One
area they could cut back on costs is the ridiculously
heavy bottles used for premium wines. These one
kilo monstrosities require the brawn of a hod carrier
to lug around and are hugely impractical regarding
shipping. Wine critics Jancis Robinson and Tim Atkins
have campaigned for years against these “bodybuilder
bottles” and Robinson in particular directs much of her
ire at Argentina as the worst offender. Winery claims
that icon wines require thick glass for protection are
somewhat redundant as modern bottle technology
mesan the lighter 300g bottles are now more than
adequate – as exemplified by many Australian wineries.
The truth is such bottles are often for show more than
anything else. Besides the heavy environmental
costs – the weight of glass we go through every year
is the equivalent of 49,000 jumbo jets, this writer is
particularly annoyed with dark, heavy bottles for
deceiving us into thinking there is more wine left in
the bottle as we go to pour the last non-existent drop.

By Jona Conti

The Vines of Mendoza

From Dust to Dust
Argentine boffins have invented powdered wine. They
took a very decent Cabernet Sauvignon from Patagonia,
froze it to 30 below zero in a “liofilización” chamber and
completely ruined it. The water and alcohol evaporates,
leaving a purple dust that they say could be beneficial for
one´s health as it still contains those famous anti-oxidants
that help French people live to 110. The revelation has
kicked up a dust storm in Argentina amongst winemakers
and wine critics. The local wine authority, the INV,
questions the fact that it can even be called wine and one
famous vintner declared wine with no alcohol is wine
with no soul. Though the whole exercise does seem to
be rather pointless, reducing wine to powder does have
its advantages. To avoid the ridiculous prices tourists pay
to ship their wine purchases home, every winery tasting
room should have one of these freeze pots. A heavy bottle
of wine can be reduced to a neat wrap that fits in one’s
wallet. Just add water and alcohol when you get home.
7

HOW TO MAKE
BEDROOM IN

8

WINE IN YOUR
10 EASY STEPS
By Maria Victoria Mermoz.

Imagine you work in wine tourism for 10 years explaining
visitors how to elaborate wine. Would you be curious
enough as to try and make your own wine at home? Well,
this is my story and I want to share it with you.
Just a bit of context: the more I learn about wine, the
more I like it and the less picky I am – maybe that´s why I
loved my own wine. One day I was with a group of people
visiting the winery Kaiken. We were about to taste those
fabulous wines when I see a styrofoam cooler full of
grapes (around 6 or 7 kilograms).
“You want them?” asks my host Lucia. “We´re throwing
them away.”
So of course I said yes. Those bunches were samples from
the vineyard. They had just been checked for ripeness, so
as to decide how much longer before harvest time. I took
them home with me and put them in the fridge until I
could start to play the alchemist.
As I would always explain to people on my tours everything you need for making wine is already on the
grapes. The pulp melts and becomes juice. The sugar and
acidity are in the pulp, the color is on the skin of the grape
together with the yeasts that will turn sugar into alcohol
during the fermentation Tannins are on the seeds and
skin. What am I waiting for? I had to see it for myself.
The first time I made wine, I used a plastic bucket for
the fermentation. I showed my wine to a friend that´s a
winemaker and he said it smelled like apples. This smell
is the beginning of oxidation and it means too much
oxygen during fermentation (meaning: only good for
dressing your salad). So I used it for cooking “carne a la
olla” (Argentina’s version of beef bourgignon). There was
no way I was going to throw my baby wine away.
So the following year, I got my grapes and had to give it
another try. Keep this description for trying your own.

9

1

Equipment:
You need a big and empty water bottle (6 liters).

2

The Crush:
Squeeze in each grape, one by one, by hand. It took me
about two hours to do so. The whole grape goes inside, but
you do have to squeeze it, so you help to separate the juice
from the skin. So you´ll end up with the pulp and juice,
skins that will be floating on top, and seeds that sink.
There are three very important details: no stems inside
the bottle. Don´t fill the bottle to the very top. Leave at
least 20% empty, and don´t close it super tight. Leave it a
bit loose. You´ll see why.

3

The Fermentation:
I kept the bottle in my bedroom, because the temperature
was the right one. Just find a place in your house where
there´s no abrupt changes of temperature – warm is
what you need (20 to 28 celsius). So at night, I could hear
and smell the fermentation going. It was magical. I have
to admit I was nervous to think that if something went
wrong, I had to wait a whole year for more grapes.
What started happening inside this bottle is that, with
the warm temperature the yeast wakes up from their
lethargy and start turning the sugar into alcohol, and
releasing CO2 while doing so. We don´t need bubbles in
the wine, that´s why this bottle is so useful. It allows you
to release the gas, and you do it twice a day by twisting the
cap open and then close it a bit loose again. It makes the
same noise of opening a soda bottle.

4

Maceration:
Also twice a day, you gently tip the bottle up and down (be
careful with the loose top – close it tight for this purpose,
and then back like it was) so as to mix up the juice with the
skins that are floating (the gas, on its way up, places the
skins on top). Mixing skins with juice is crucial since the
color, flavors, aromas and tannins will be transferred from
the skin to the juice. Another tip: If you fear temperature
is higher than you need, just put the bottle on the fridge
for 10 minutes, to cool it down a bit. I only needed to do
this twice during the fermentation process.

5

Test It:
Every two days you taste your half way wine, and you´ll notice
it´s less sweet every time, since the sugar is slowly turning
into alcohol. You´ll also see it´s a bit fizzy on the tongue, like a
soda that´s been open long enough on your fridge.

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6

Filtering:
After a couple of weeks, when you stop hearing the
mumbling of the gas coming out, no more bubbling, no
more apparent activity in there, then it´s ready. You will
need a mesh fabric to separate the skins. Put the wine (yes,
It´s wine now!) in a jar, and the solids on the mesh. Gently
squeeze the mesh to rescue all that wine soaked on the
skins (for this I used a pan), and mix that wine with the
one waiting in the jar. No matter how good the skins smell
after you do this, don´t feed it to your dogs.

7

Bottling:
Get some wine bottles with screw caps instead, and
fill them up with your wine to the very top, so there´s
almost no oxygen in them. Don´t get too excited: you
won´t get more than maybe 3 bottles of wine; there´s a big
percentage of solids on a wine grape.

8

Storage:
Regarding storage, keep the bottles at no more than 20
celsius, and make sure they´re not exposed to sources of
heat, since it could ruin your precious wine. In this case,
horizontal versus vertical is not an issue since there´s no
cork in need of moisture. Just think of a place in your
house that is not very warm with steady temperature.
(Ideally, basement. If not a closet or laundry room).

9

Aging:
Let it rest a couple of months before you try it. I waited a year
for one of the bottles, and it was the nicest one in my opinion.

10

The Tasting:
When you do taste it, when you open the bottle, there
may be a bit of fizziness. I just poured it into my wine
glass, aerated a bit, and eventually the gas vanished. My
wine was delicious, very intense in color and tannins. This
is why you don´t have to squeeze the solids that much,
otherwise it can be too intense. It was very fruit-forward,
and I shared with friends and family. Stained teeth, happy
smiles. Just make sure there´s no “know it all” type of
person around, ready to criticize your wine because it´s a
bit fizzy, or telling you that you will poison them.
The grapes were amazing. So I don´t take the credit for the
beautiful wine I made. Right now I sound like my dad when
someone tells him “you are a great barbecue man”, and he
replies “I´m not - it´s the butcher that sold me great beef”.
But I did feel proud of myself, and did it again the
following and the following year. Ever since then you can
read “oenologist” on my CV. Just joking. Now I want to
grow my own grapes…

11

GETTING RID OF
DEAD WOOD
The harvest
may be done
but the real
work is far
from over.
Charles
Pestridge talks
about pruning.
The harvest is in and finished and many wines are still
fermenting in the tanks, whilst others are going into
the barrels already. The vines themselves have been
deliberately left alone since the end of the harvest so
that the canes can harden before the pruning begins,
but also to allow them to store carbohydrates (sugar)
in their trunks, which will nourish the new shoots and
flowers during the spring. That is why you will still see
the vines being irrigated, even though there is no fruit
on them and the leaves are dying and falling off.

“A winemaker who doesn´t have mud on his
boots is not a winemaker”
A well managed vine will live way over one hundred
years. We have many very old vines here in Mendoza,
producing good grapes, but the key is good “vine
management”. It was not so long ago that many a
winemaker would have you believe that the quality of
his wine was determined solely in the winery itself, so
all he really wanted was a good summer. The younger
and better trained winemaker will tell you that the
fundamental key to great wine is the effort put into
12

managing the plant. There is more than a grain of truth
in the maxim “a winemaker who doesn´t have mud on
his boots is not a winemaker”. Many of the younger,
very talented winemakers have trained as agronomists
prior to training as oenologists.
The first step in the annual work cycle of vine care is
the pruning. Here in Mendoza that will usually start
within the first ten days of June and involves cutting
out most of the canes that supported and nourished this
year´s grapes. It is the longest single task in a vineyard
and every body will try to finish it before the second
week of September, as weather permitting, we hope to
see the new buds opening by then. It is very hard work
pulling the cut canes off the supporting wires, as the
very tough, resilient tendrils have wrapped themselves
around the wires to support the weight of the canopy
canes, leaves and fruit.

“The pricier a bottle, the less fruit per vine”
The objective is to carefully select either canes, or spurs
that will produce healthy, vigorous shoots in the coming
season. In some instances you will see quite thick lateral
arms (cordons) running along the fruiting wire to the
left and right from the top of the trunk and here the

winemaker and agronomist may elect to cut selected canes,
but two inches above the cordon, creating a “spur” with at
least two nodes (new buds) on each spur. Alternatively they
may elect to saw off the thick cordon and retain the two
best, healthiest canes, bending one left and one right and
then tying them to the fruiting wire to create new cordons.
The length of the two canes and indeed how many spurs
will depend on how many bunches of grapes they want
each vine to produce.
It is important here to understand that wine retailing
at US$10 will come from vines that produce 7lbs each,
whilst wine retailing at US$20 will have come from vines
that produce only 4lbs each. The pricier a bottle, the less
fruit per vine. If a grape vine is left to its own devices
(unmanaged) each individual shoot will grow up to 30ft in
length and the plant may produce up to 30lbs of fruit, but
very poor quality, weak and watery.

“Women do this much faster than men”
Pruning is not rocket science, but it does mean that only
the vineyards best and most experienced workers can
actually make the selection of which canes to cut and
which to retain. These workers have the title of Cuaterlos.
The remainder of the workforce will be engaged in pulling
all the cut canes out to the end of the rows for subsequent
haulage and burning, or pulling them into the centre
between the rows for subsequent shredding. Additionally
some workers will be retightening the wires which have
become slack from the weight of the canopy and the
rigours of pruning, whilst others will be tying down the
new cordon canes. Women do this much faster than men!!
The pruning is a massive team undertaking and is just one
important facet of good plant management--frequently
done when frost is on the ground, with consequent icecold feet and hands. Think about this as you swirl smell
and taste. Good drinking and “cheers”.
13

14

15

WISHLIST - Vino Casero
Small production and hard to get, Vino
Casero is the ultímate in garage wines
with one significant difference. It does
no blow a hole in your pocket. Below
are some of the best that should be
more famous, but thankfully not as
that would mean expensive.

Que sea Sangre Malbec 2014 - El Sueño Vineyard Horacio Graffigna - 700 bottles
An alcoholic is carefully carrying a bottle of wine when he
stumbles over something and falls down badly. Looking at
the red puddle forming on the ground, he shouts desperately,
“May it be blood !“
“Que sea sangre” is a generous, very fruity and easy-to-drink
Malbec. Winemaker Horacio Graffigna’s family vineyard in
Chapanay gives to the wine notes of marmalade fruits and the
Pedriel vineyard belonging to his girlfriend balances it nicely
with fresh fruits and a touch of acidity.
horaciograffigna@gmail.com / twitter : horagraffigna

Manuel Porto Andino 2005 - Manuel Garcia Riccardi 4000 bottles
Manuel works in the chemical industry and can’t stand the
smell of solvents. As an antidote he decided to make wine.
His now 10-year old Porto Andino Tawny is a blend of Pinot
Noir, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec,
harvested with the help of a wise old man from Tupungato,
vinified in a very organic way and aged in French-oak barrels
curated and re-toasted by Manuel himself. The 2005 Port
exhales intense aromas of dried apricot and peaches, crude
tobacco and a bit of a calcareous minerality that would match
well with roquefort, almonds or even crème brûlée.
vinosgarciariccardi@yahoo.com.ar

Finca la Oma - Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 - Veronica C.
Bernert - 450 bottles
Drinking a glass of Veronica’s Cabernet is an invitation to share
a bit of her own world. The Cabernet is the closest to her heart
and to her home. The vineyard is located in the neighborhood
of Coquimbito, Maipu, where she lives and the grape the
varietal that set in motion her home-made wine adventure in
2009. Aged 4 months in American oak, it is an intense wine
that expresses notes of red fruits, pepper and chocolate.
vcbernert@fincalaoma.com.ar / www.fincalaoma.com.ar

Flor Azul –2014 - Renzo Lopresi and Alejandro Allende
– 3200 bottles
A Flor Azul or “ Blue Flower” is ta symbol of friendship and also
a wine of three young winemakers and friends in a house in El
Argarrobal in Las Heras. Keen on experimenting, they source
the grapes from premium vineyards in Agrelo and Ugarteche.
Interestingly, this blend of Malbec and Bonarda contains
Malbec from a 100-year old, semi-abandoned vineyard in
Las Heras, surrounding an historical chapel. The result is a
surprisingly young and balanced wine.
Facebook : vinosflorazul / vinoflorazul@gmail.com

Callejon Ortega – Vino Tinto Casero – Vistalba
A traditional grape-producing family in Vistalba used to sell
grapes from their 80-year-old vineyard to the renowned
winery Pulenta Estate. Poor prices and runaway inflation
made them decide to start their own wine production, helped
by the precious advice of their clients and friends . This prize
winning home made wine is available in many Mendocinian
wine shops. Facebook : Callejon Ortega
16

ON A
ROLL
Martin
Mariangeli and
Fernando Mateo
discuss one of
Argentina’s
greatest
delicacies –
the choripan.
Do you know what a “choripan” is? Have you ever tasted
one? Well, if the answer is no, let us introduce you to the
incredible experience of eating a “choripan” in the stands
of a Mendoza stadium during a football match.
The concept of “choripan” can be defined as: A grilled
Spanish sausage (“chorizo”) in baguette bread (“pan”),
accompanied by plenty of mustard, mayonnaise, ketchup
and other sauces. It is like a hotdog on steroids and should
always be accompanied by a coke.
Now you have the perfect meal that can be eaten at
any time during the day. However, the true choripan
dining experience is in a football stadium. With great
effort we will try to make a picture of this awesome,
incredible experience.
First of all, there are a lot of elements involved in a
football match: the players, the match itself, the weather,
the stadium, the crowd, etc. One element that should not
be left aside is choripan. Each time you go to a Mendoza
football match, you can’t leave the stadium without
having one. As you enter the stadium you see stands
everywhere selling the precious meat in a roll. Some
people look down on these stands saying: “who could eat
something like that?” But don’t let their snobbery turn
you against this essential food item—when the same
epicures perceive the wafts of grilled sausage, they soon
change their minds. The smell is magic and awakes your
hunger. The choripan is a local delicacy as authentic as
empanadas or dulce de leche.

So, you push through the crowd and order one. While
you wait you can intensely observe the choripan cooking
process. When the vendor slips the juicy sausage between
the bread roll and slavers it with sauces, well, you start
drooling. When you finally eat it, it is a moment of pure
sensation, a vacation for your senses. Spicy, crunchy,
hot, fragrant, greasy - this is more or less what eating a
“choripan” feels like.
Final recommendations:
A “choripan” it must be well-done. Never take it medium.
Eat before the match or after. During the match
you’ll need your mouth empty to shout and curse.
At half-time it is not advisable to try to buy a
choripan due to the enormous crowds that rush to
buy one.
Don’t ever share. Tell your friend to get his own.
You may want to take a digestive pill after the
incredible experience.
As regards “the coke”, don’t expect Coca-Cola. It is
usually a cheap soda or if you are lucky, it could be
Coca-Cola with half glass of water.
Contact us and we’ll gladly escort you to a football
game in exchange for a choripan. Afterall, nothing
in life is free.
17

HOUSE WINE

More than
5,000 people
are making
homemade
wine in
Mendoza.
Emilie Giraud
checks out
the thriving
community
of Vino
Patero
22

18

Wandering the roads of Mendoza,
you may be intrigued by the amount
of chalk written boards advertising
all kinds of home-grown products empanadas, vegetables, eggs, olive
oil and wine. Do you dare to stop and
try a “ vino patero “?
Yes, I know, they don’t have a great
reputation. But to challenge my preconceptions, I decided to organize a
little blind tasting with some winelover friends, including a sommelier
and winemaker. I picked three
bottles of “ vino casero” and a bottle
of mass-produced wine of more or
less the same range of price.
The first home-made wine left us
somewhat crestfallen.
“Oh, this one has an aftertaste of
beetroot. I definitely don’t like
beetroot,“
“This one is too metallic and bitter …
definitely too evolved “

The conventional wine on the other
hand was described as “superficial”, or
“probably made with wooden chips ”.
But after a while, the home-made
wines grew on us.
“This one has spices, a little bit
of violet flowers, red fruits. The
tannins are silky “.
“It’s round, balanced, I would
definitely go for another glass.”
The winner is an 80 peso home-made
Malbec from a 70 year-old vineyard
in Vistalba, proving that homemade
wine can definitely be of quality.
Above all, what seduced us is the
David vs Goliath effect that plays
in this wine style’s favor - the idea
that an amateur making wine in
his garden shed can reach results
comparable in terms of quality to
what a large-scale winery produces.
You can also feel their little touch of

19

soul, that something personal. It’s not
that these wines are made to please
you but that they instead force you to
enter their very special universe.
“This
wine
is
warm-hearted,“
concludes one of my friends,
draining the last drop from her glass.
To understand a little more the
motivations and challenges of the
homemade vintner and what makes
their wine so particular, I decided to go
and explore two very different places.

FINCA LA OMA, DIY WINE
After I got lost in Coquimbito with
a bewildered taxi driver, I finally
reach Finca la Oma. Vero, the
vintner is waiting for me. We are in
a typical middle class Maipu barrio.
First surprise, there is obviously no
finca. We are in what is obviously
the heart of suburbia.
Immediately after greeting each
other, we pass through Vero’s living
room, and enter the small winery
she and her husband have created in
a house extension.
The space feels very cosy and very
intimate for a winemaking space.
She definitely has put a lot of herself
into this place. Handcrafted collages
and white fabrics with laces adorn
the cupboards. The shelves are
packed with her own marmalades,
oils and peaches jarred in syrup.
There is even a comfy corner
furnished with barrel furniture to
welcome potential visitors.
Sharing with my hostess a perfect
and delicious piece of home-made
chocolate cake, I understand to
which extent “home“ is such a
determinant factor in the spirit
of homemade wines. In her little
cocoon, winemaking seems an
extension of her domestic life, and
as she speaks about the wines, I can
almost picture the parallel action
of the yeast fermenting in her
wine and the bread yeast slowly
baking in the kitchen. Her home is
an environment where love, care,
housework and winemaking are all
blended together.
Making wine for Vero is part of
her blood, a family bind linking
generations.
20

The name of her winery comes
from the surname of her Croatian
great grandmother, Oma. Back
in Yougoslavia, her family had
vineyards and she brought the
tradition to Argentina, making her
own wine from Chincha grape. “A
black and chewy grape with a sandy
skin that tastes of grape sweets”,
explains Vero.
Her eyes are glowing with pride when
she remembers her grandmother
coming with kilos of grapes from a little
vineyard 15 blocks away from her home.
Vero helped her to press the grape with
her hands, little by little soaking herself
in the familial tradition.
Showing me her palms stained by
this year’s wine, she explains, “when
you dirty your hands, you connect
with your roots, the earth. You
connect with the most elevated part
of yourself”.
Building up her own small production
winery is definitively a joint project
with her husband. It wouldn’t be
possible without his help.

“He says that I am the brain and he is the
muscle of the winery. We don’t have
children. The wines are my children.”
When I ask her what is the most
exciting part of the process, she
shows me a tank in fermentation and
made me listen to the musicality of
the wine that is slowly being made.
“You can’t see the yeasts, but you
can listen to them, you can listen
to the process of creation. It’s an
amazing transmutation, you are
changing something ephemeral in
something durable”
Vero is a very attentive mother, she
listens to her wines, raises them,
lets them grow up, and then lets
them leave.
“Wine runs my entire life”, she
concludes.
This very intimate link Vero has
with her wines is the reason why
she never aimed at working in a
large production winery. She studied
winemaking in her late thirties with

21

the objective to develop this specific
project - a small-scale production of
good quality wines made with love.

BRAZOS TINTOS, THE
RESOURCEFUL WAY

“If there is someone else involved
in the process, it’s not your wine
anymore“, she says firmly. She
wants to do everything - harvesting,
vinifying, designing the stickers,
creating her website and selling her
final product.
When they started their production
in 2009, Vero and her husband made
250 bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon.
This year, they hope to make 2000
of two different styles: Cabernet
and blends of Malbec and Syrah coplanted in the vineyard. She would
like to one day reach the 4000
litres maximum allowed under the
category vino casero, in order to
generate a larger part of the family
wage. Like many home vintners,
wine-making remains a secondary
activity. At weekends, she works as a
tour guide in a winery in Maipù and
her husband works as an electrician.
Her dream is to keep the project at
a scale her and her husband can
manage by themselves and preserve
this personal warmth that she can
give to her wine. Eventually, they
would love to buy a vineyard for
their Finca la Oma to be complete.

El Nano explains to me that
these tanks are a good and cheap
alternative
to
the
traditional
stainless steal or concrete tanks
used by wineries. They have been
approved by the INV (the national
wine regulator) and their small
volume allows for good control and
manual punching down.

The elaboration of home-made
wine requires resourcefulness and
solidarity to compensate for the lack
of a large-scale investment. Exploring
the “ how-do-we-make-wine-withoutmoney” question, I arrive at a place
called La Casa Cultural, a traditional
Mendocinian house covered by
colorful wall paintings and surrounded
by a garden of curiosities waiting to
be recycled. At the entrance, a small
board advertises beer, home-made
wine and vegan food, while another
exhibits a political statement against a
huge mining project.
Inside, the large rooms of the Casa
accommodate a cooperative of
producers working in eclectic fields
- cooking, recycling, sewing, beermaking, and of course, winemaking.
The wine that is produced here is
called Brazos Tintos or Red Arms,
in reference to the deep violet color
that stains the arms of the workers
during harvest.
Those famous arms are those of
the four creators of the project
- el Pelado, Diego, El Chicha and
El Nano, and their very dynamic
network of friends.
They are
agronomists,
winemakers,
or
simply wine lovers who embrace
common ideals of solidarity,
cooperative work, and care for the
environment.

22

When I arrive at La Casa, the first
person I meet is El Nano. After
preparing the ubiquitous maté, he
brings me directly to a bedroomturned-winery where ten small
blue plastic fermentation tanks full
of must are waiting to be stirred.

I arrive at a crucial moment. His
friends are about to arrive from the
east of the province with a precious
harvest. The group doesn’t have its
own vineyard, but in exchange for
harvesting themselves and gifting
some bottles of the end product, they
often come to reasonable agreements
with grape producers from all over
the province. Last year, they sourced
enough grapes in this manner to
make 3,200 liters of wine.
20 minutes later, three men arrived
loaded up with plastic cases full
of Bonarda, Malbec and Muscatel
grapes. It is time to crush.
After reorganizing quite drastically the
tiny and unpractical room, they install
a seemingly brand new de-stemmer on
the window ledge. It is rented from a
collective organization of home-made
wine producers they are part of.
“This is a luxury. It’s only the second
year we have used it. Before we
would de-stem entirely by hand
which would take hours“ confesses
Emiliano, a very involved friend.
When the different elements finally
in place, it’s time to celebrate.
Everyone cheers with a fresh, and
obviously handmade, beer. We put
some music on and the show begins.
No need to say the buena onda (good
vibes) is a great motivation factor to
get things done and entices people to
give a hand.
With their diplomas, those guys
could have got well-paid jobs in
traditional wineries, but working
here presents other advantages.

Quien no es visto, no es recordado.

23

“Even though we need to have other
jobs to make a living, here we work
with friends. And more, working
here strengthens our friendship“ says
El Chicha.
Diego emphasises that part of their
dedication is also politically rooted.
“We want to show we can think
about the economy from a different
perspective, in a more fraternal way “.
This
is
facilitated
by
their
involvement in the many networks
of mutual-help, recuperation and
barter. Having their own economic
project also provides them with
the chance to support other socioeconomic projects in the area.
Their work with Los Triumfadores
del Ambiente, an organization that
helps youngsters from impoverished
neighborhoods generate a small
income through recycling, is quite
illustrative of how things work in
the social economy circle. They buy
from them empty bottles for a price
that is slightly below the price of a
new bottle. They need to wash those
bottles and the fact that they come
in different shape doesn’t ease the
corking process.
“But
it
adds
human
and
environmental value to the project “.
La Casa even organizes workshops to
transmit their knowledge and help
other people start their own projects.
The little world of home-made wine
is definitely part of the Mendoza’s
heritage. Historically, people working
in the vineyards would collect the
left over grapes after the harvest
and make wine for their personal
consumption. Those wines risked
oxidizing quickly and were therefore
to be consumed within a year before
they turned to vinegar. Sometimes,
when they contained a high content
of sugar, they would ferment again in
the bottle, provoking a bubbly taste.
For a very long time, this sector of
winemaking was off the radar of the
national wine regulator and if people
were found selling those wines, their
production would be destroyed.
It’s only since the year 2003, in the
aftermath of the financial crisis,
that this sector has been taken into
account by the local, regional and
national government. Nowadays,
24

anyone who produces less than 4000
liters per year can be registered as a
producer of home-made wine. This
recognition happened in a context of
hyperinflation, when the price of the
grape remained stable, provoking a
huge crisis among the producers. The
idea was to allow these producers to
make their own wine and sell them
for extra income. New groups of
producers were promptly formed
and experts brought in to give
advice. Small loans became available
as start-up capital.
Many involved started to study
winemaking, formed cooperatives
and expanded. New types of people
got on board such as professional
winemakers, wine lovers and
people who just wanted to have fun.
The list of registered producers
is constantly growing, and INTA,
the national agricultural research
institute, estimates that around
5,000 people are producing homemade wine in Mendoza.

Despite the lack of financial resources,
marketing, space or machinery, the
end product is getting better.
“The quality has improved a lot and
some can definitely compete with
medium priced industrial wine“, says
Daniel P, director of INTA in La Consulta.
“You even have some fanatics that love
the sharp tartness and spiciness of
these wines and would drink nothing
else but a vino casero “ he adds.
So if you do pass by one of those
little boards advertising home-made
wine, stop and give them a try. If
they do not flatter your palate, they
will surely warm your soul.

25

dining out
MENDOZA CITY

Grill Q

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill
Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and
gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty
Argentine classics such as ‘locro’ - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for
the stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s
other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a
more gourmet evening menu and
the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in
town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and
mezze style tapas, you’ll need to bring
your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious
pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts
of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $240 pesos. Bistro
M Executive Menu $270 with starter
buffet, main course, dessert buffet and
glass of wine.

Ituzaingo

Grill Q

Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a
casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patrona’s warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $140/(including starter, main dish,
dessert+a glass of wine)

26

For an intimate, unusual and memorable
evening - Ituzaingo is one of the
city’s best kept secrets. A ‘closed door’
restaurant located in a historic house
in the bohemian quarter, Ituzaingo
has been receiving rave reviews from
locals, expats and travellers alike who
relish in the warm atmosphere, good
company, unique art, and good food all
accompanied by an eclectic music mix.
The maestro in question is Gonzalo
Cuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45
people in his attractive loft conversion
house or leafy summer garden, and his
chef Francisco can delight guests with an
eight course menu of Argentine flavours
catered to an international palate, or
simply relax with a glass of wine. This
is a real place to meet the wines, food,
art, music and hospitality of Argentina.
8 course menu of argentine cuisine with
3 glasses of wine and a welcome drink,
or you can order sharing plates and
wine by the glass. For those who like to
learn more about regional culture and
gastronomy Ituzaingo has the option of
an Argentinean Cooking Class which
is a lot of fun and educational. Prices
between 400 and 500 pesos per person
(wines included). Open Mon, Wed, Fri &
Sat from 8.30pm. Reservations essential.
Ituzaingo Resto, tel (261) 15 666 5778,
cocina@ituzaingoresto.com.a

El Mercadito

With an attractive fairy lit patio and
terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends,
El Mercadito has a cool vibe and
relaxed music making it a favorite.
Opened recently by three friends,
El Mercadito is offering something a
little bit different to Mendoza. With a
cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive
waiting staff, this is quickly becoming
a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to
eat or evening cocktails. Opening in
the morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads and
some Argentine classic meals. Chow
down to big healthy salads like the
‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served
with chunky chips and homemade
BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make
sure to try out one of their yummy
strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,
Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.
Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:
Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La Marchigiana

As the first Italian restaurant in
Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing
here, maintaining original recipes
from over 60 years ago; we recommend
the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out
the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity
credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias
Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.
meal price: $160

La Marchigiana

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important
restaurant on Mendoza’s food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesn’t stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with
a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky
prawns. Along with a handful of
salmon dishes there are a host of
different foods on the menu including
classic steak, rich lamb, creamy
pastas and lots of lighter options
including big salads, sharing platters
and vegetarian dishes. While lunch
and dinner is still its main game, the
beautiful gardens and restaurant
are open for breakfast from 8am
offering unending treats from their
own French patisserie and the late
afternoon is perfect for sipping your
way through the extensive cocktail
list or take your pick from the arm

long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel:
(261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am till late.
Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos.

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER
Terruño - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling
Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort
and its lovely restaurant Terruño.
This handsome eatery boasts an
elegant interior, excellent service and
a wine list that is sure to please even
the most finicky of wine snobs. Their
chef compiles a tantalising menu that
includes top notch lomo steaks, a
rotating range of salads and a savory
ginger/honey chicken dish that is
second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú.
AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,
Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $370 pesos.

La Marchigiana

Josefina Restó
Opened in February, the trendy
Josefina Restó is a haven of elegance
on hectic Aristides Street. Named
after the 5-year-old goddaughter of
the owner, Ana Ochoa, the building is
a playful mix of the urban and natural.
The warmth of vintage style drawings
adorning the walls are displayed
through large street windows.
Such an abundance of natural light
makes for a peaceful, illuminated

lunch. After work hours, you´re
welcome to pop up for some gourmet
tapas accompanied with a rotating
selection of by-the-glass wine. At
sunset, a thoughtful combination
of candle and industrial light bulbs
will put you in the mood for a fine
dinner. The food is eclectic, seasonal,
and very personal - a fusion of
Ana mum´s traditional recipes and
of her own international cooking
experience. Don’t miss the delicious

ravioles stuffed with smoked salmon,
seasoned with butter and sage sauce
and cheese made by the sommelier
herself. Note for the wine addicts, from
June, Josefina opens its food and wine
pairing workshop “ Saber de Sabor “
run by the sommelier Eugenia Mas.
www.josefinaresto.com.ar
Aristides Villanueva 165,
Mendoza 5500, Argentina
Tel. 261 4233531

27

the winery guide
Nieto Senetiner

Dante Robino

The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina
is a beautifully restored bodega with
well-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine:
Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5.
Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján
de Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Located in a beautiful old winery in
Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888
and makes a great range of wines and
sparkling wines and offers horseback
riding in the vineyards and asado style
lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja
S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
nietosenetiner.com.ar

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent view
of mountains and vines. (0261) 488
7229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240,
Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

Clos de Chacras

Melipal

Charming boutique operation with nice
history. A five minute walk from Chacras
plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496
1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Luján
de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches
make Melipal one of the most exclusive
wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.N.7,
1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.
bodegamelipal.com.ar

Luigi Bosca

Mendel

The Arizu dynasty are the royal
family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. Classical
architecture, ancient atmospheric cellars
and rich wines such as the Finca Las
Nobles range make for a fascinating
visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,
Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar

An old style winery ran by one of
Argentina’s most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas de los Andes

Viña Cobos

Septima
A beautifully designed winery with
clear views of the mountains and a large
terrace used for sunset wine events
after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Owned by
the Spanish experts in sparkling wine,
Codorniu, they make fab sparkling
wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550,
Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
bodegaseptima.com

Bonfanti
A lovely winery in a pastoral setting.
Up close and personal tours with the
owners themselves and a tasting room
set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595.
Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.

American winemaker Paul Hobbs
was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
vinacobos.com

Pulenta Estate

Tapiz

Norton

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end
restaurant Terruño and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and bottle
tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial
15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.
www.tapiz.com

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are
popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700.
R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján de Cuyo.
www.norton.com.ar

Belasco de Baquedano

Benegas Lynch

Gleaming
modern
facility
with
fascinating aroma room and restaurant
with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
belascomalbec.com

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely
old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Catena Zapata

Piattelli

Navarro Correas

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan
temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo.
www.catenawines.com

A lovely family owned winery done
in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on
a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:
Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.
Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
piattellivineyards.com

The closest winery to Mendoza city, easily
accessible Navarro Correas is a modern
winery with great sparkling wines and
fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San
Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz.
www.ncorreas.com

Cruzat

Caelum

A boutique traditional sparkling wine
producer with gorgeous bubbles that can
be enjoyed from their terrace overlooking
vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n,
Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Modern, medium size winery on the main
road to Chile just before the mountains
and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine:
Rosado. (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

Renacer
This Chilean-owned winery creates
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

Kaiken
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a
new venture by the prestigious Chilean
winery Montes. Big and powerful wines,
destined for fame. TEL (0261) 476111114 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) /
Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque Saenz
Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján de
Cuyo. Open from Mon to Sat from 8 AM
to 6:30 PM/SUN and holidays from 9 AM
to 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com

Alta Vista
Masterful mix of modern and
traditional. Tasting includes distinctive
Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs.
(0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacras
de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
altavistawines.com

28

Cool minimalist design and rich
complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.
pulentaestate.com

REFERENCES
Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City
Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCES
Luján de Cuyo

San Martín

Maipú

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

Chandon

Ruca Malen

Carmelo Patti

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making
great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Excellent food, great guiding and firstclass wines. The pairings over lunch
make for an unforgettable culinary
experience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974.
R.N.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.
www.bodegarucamalen.com

Mendoza’s most famous garagista.
Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614,
Luján de Cuyo.

Dominio del Plata

Decero

Dolium

Argentina´s most famous female
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in the heart
of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba
7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.
dominiodelplata.com.ar

Attractive, modern facility with
spectacular views of the mountains from
the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748.
Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján de
Cuyo. www.decero.com

A completely underground winery
with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30
s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

Lagarde

Estrella de los Andes

Owner of the oldest white wine in
South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year old
vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin
1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo.
www.lagarde.com.ar

On a leafy road in the middle of Lujan,
this winery has a cool, retro diner with
well presented and tasty Argentine
dishes that won’t break your bank.
Open all day and a relaxed atmosphere.
Olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190.
www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Tucked away in a restored winery in
Las Compuertas, you can taste single
vineyard and terroir blend wines from
both of these ambitious projects from
under one roof. Walk-ins welcome.
Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, Las Compuertas,
Luján de Cuyo. (261) 562 9134/35.www.
durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

Casarena

Vistalba

Familia Cassone

A beautiful mix of old and new, this winery
mixes tradition and modernity in an
old style winery with a super modern
restaurant with splendid views of the
vineyarsd and mountains. Brandsen 505,
Perdriel. www.casarena.com.
Tel 2616967848.

Tasting room where one entire wall
is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines.com

A charming, family owned winery in a
beautiful setting. Try the jasmine tinted
rosé amidst the pastoral splendour of the
owner’s expansive garden. Anchorena y
Terrada. (261) 424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar

actively participates in cutting edge
research observing the effect of
climate change on viticulture. It is also
one of the very few wineries to be
certified as Fair Trade. The historical
winery is surrounded by a luxuriant
garden which offers a glorious view
on the Cordon del Plata and the
occasional wandering guinea pig that
frightens tourists. Here you can enjoy a

delicious gourmet picnic accompanied
by different varietals from the house.
Inside the winery, the underground
stone and brick cellar featuring the
personal collection of the owner is a
must see and the tasting room itself is
an old concrete tank from 1912 where
you’ll get to sip some concentrated,
structured and sensual wines which
includes their iconic Alto wine.

La Madrid/Durigutti

Alta Vista
Established in Chacras de Coria
since 1997, Alta Vista is a Frenchfamily owned project located in a
remodeled 120 year-old colonial
style winery, renowned for blending
French winemaking philosophy with
Argentinian tradition. The winery is
considered a specialist in terroir. It
has patented the concept of Single
Vineyard Wines in Argentina and

29

the winery guide
Achaval Ferrer

Cecchin

Clos de los 7

Modern boutique close to Mendoza
riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261)
488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

MAIPU

A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you can see
the entire process from the beautiful green
vineyards to the minimal intervention
winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu,
www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores,
you can visit premium French owned
wineries Monteviejo, Rolland, Diamandes
and Cuvelier de los andes in one visit for
tastings, horseriding, art and lunch. (0261)
156 687680. www.clos7.com.ar

Trapiche

Carinae

O. Fournier

Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old
and new, traditional and industrial, and
has the old train tracks leading up to it.
(0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito,
Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

Small, charming, French-owned winery
offering personal tours and well-honed wines.
Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees.
(0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
Piedra, Maipú www.carinaevinos.com

Most architecturally innovative winery
with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta,
San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Flichman

Tempus Alba

Gimenez Riili

Steeped in history and tradition. Charming,
pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in
the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu.
(0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas,
Maipú. www.flichman.com

A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes
of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace
overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481 3501. Perito
Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

A brand new family run affair, part of the
exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This is
a modern winery in a stunning setting.
0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta
94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com

Familia Di Tommasso

Popular, old-style winery with two museums
on the wine. Restaurant offers gourmet
cuisine with a panoramic view. (0261) 497
6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Officially the second oldest winery in
Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation.
Attractive restaurant amidst the vines,
famous for its asado-style lunches and
generous wine pourings. (0261) 441
0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www.
familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas
Making real ‘vinos de autor’, US born
Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP Cava
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city make it a
recommended visit. Gómez Adriano 3602.
Coquimbito. Maipú - (261) 4813201/4668048

Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked museum with invaluable
antiques like cowhide wine presses and
buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large,
cavernous halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú.
www.bodegalarural.com.ar

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Lopez

Bodega Masi

VALLE DE UCO

Fascinating Italian job in the heart of
Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially the
Amarone inspired varietals and unusual
blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.
masitupungato.com

Andeluna

Domaine Bousquet

The old-world style tasting room looks
upon dramatic views of vineyards against
mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P.
89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.
andeluna.com

Another French transplant to the
Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this
sizeable operation produces high altitude
Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and
now has a popular restaurant serving
excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta 89.
Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com
Tel 2615274048

Atamisque
This Uco winery has some great white
wines, a unique stony roof and they breed
their own trout which is served in the
charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184.
R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose, Tupungato.
www.atamisque.com

La Azul
Simple, small production winery with not
so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua
Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Finca La Celia
One of the valley’s oldest wineries. They
conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622)
451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio
Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

Salentein
Designed like a temple to wine, this ultraconcept winery includes a modern art
gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the
Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n,
Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

The Vines of Mendoza
There are not many wineries that can
claim 300 different labels, but then again
The Vines is no ordinary winery. It is best
described as a cooperative of wine lovers
around the World who have all bought a
vineyard plot each in Uco Valley and are
making their own wine in a central winery
with experts such as Santiago Achaval
overseeing. Add to this a fabulous 5-star
hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and
Uco Valley will never be the same again.
Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

SAN MARTIN
Familia Antonietti
A family winery in San Martin where
you can have a tour with the owners,
try some of their sparkling wines and
stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)
4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq.
Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martín.

bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to
browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife
strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and
is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars,
restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San
Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get
your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t
even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are
all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
MATIAS DOWN TOWN
Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is
enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.
Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting
in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San
Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is right
in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or
some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.
El MERCADITO
Aristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and
this resto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El
Mercadito is run by three friends and it lets the good times
roll with healthy meals – including big salads, which are
a rarity here – antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh
cocktails and a top music mix. Spend an evening here and
you’ll hear a few beats from across the pond and leave with
a light stomach and a few stars brightening up your vision.
El Mercadito, Aristides 521.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor

in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock
the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
Velvet
This hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from
Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and
great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club
room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a
Friday and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961,
Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433.
Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

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USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at
least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most
wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.
Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The
most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount
as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES
Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.
NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is
wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own
toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going
before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.
HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),
tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped
off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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