Sheet 5: Transmission

Yale
Industrial Trucks
SINGLE-SPEED POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSION
The single-speed powersh itt transmission has Forward and Reverse clutch assemblies, a torque converter,
transmission pump, a control valve and the differential.
The transmission is a constant mesh type in that the gears are in contact with each other at all times. The clutch
assemblies are actuated by hydraulic pressure and released by the force of a spring.

Figure 3-1TRANSMISSION
Legend for Figure 3-1
1.
TRANSMISSION
HOUSING
BEARING CAP
2.
CAPSCREW
3.
WASHER
4.
COVER
5.
COTTER PIN
6.
CAPSCREW
7.
GASKET
8.
TORQUE
9.
CONVERTER
HOUSING
10. PIN
11. CAPSCREW
12. LOCKWASHER
13. GEAR PUMP
14. DIPSTICK PIPE
15. BOLT
16. WASHER

21.

NUT

22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.

PLUG
PLUG
CAPSCREW
CHOKE
BELLCRANK
CONTROL VALVE
COLD RELIEF PISTON
COLD RELIEF SPRING

30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.

REGULATOR PISTON
REGULATOR SPRING
REGULATOR SPRING
PLUG
SOLENOID VALVE
PLUG
PLUG

Sheet 5: Transmission
17.
18.
19.
20.

TEMPERATURE
SENDER
BREATHER
DIPSTICK
CAPSCREW

37.

PLUG

38.
39.
40.

CAPSCREW
GASKET
FITTING

TORQUE CONVERTER
Description (See Figure 3-2.)
The torque converter hydraulically connects the engine to the transmission. There is no direct mechanical
con-nection between the engine and the transmission.
The torque converter has an impeller, a turbine, and a stator with a stator clutch. The impeller is fastened to the
flywheel and has a set of curved blades. The turbine also has blades, and is connected to the input shaft of the
transmission by splines. The stator is between the tur-bine and the impeller. The stator clutch is a single-direc-tional
clutch that permits the stator to turn freely in the directional of engine rotation, but locks to prevent rota-tion in the
opposite directional from engine rotation. When the turbine is rotating at the same speed as the impeller, the stator
clutch permits the stator to rotate as a unit with the impeller and turbine.

Operation (See Figure 3-3., Figure 3-4. and Figure 3-5.)

The torque converter has two main functions. It operates as a fluid clutch to smoothly transfer power from the engine
to the transmission. The torque converter will multiply the torque from the engine. When the engine works against a
load, the torque converter can multiply the torque from the engine and send more torque to the transmission. The
maximum torque multiplication is available just before the torque converter stalls. If the need for torque multiplication
is not required, the torque converter operates as a fluid clutch.

The impeller has a set of curved blades that accelerates the oil from the center of the impeller when the impeller
turns. The volume of the impeller decreases towards the outer circumference. This decreasing volume increases the
speed and energy of the oil as it leaves impeller and flows into the outer circumference of the turbine. The force from
the high speed oil hitting the blades in the tur-bine transfers most of the energy to the turbine and causes it to move
in the directional of the engine rota-tion. The oil then flows from the outer circumference to-wards the center of the
turbine. The turbine blades change the directional of the oil flow so that the oil leav-ing the center of the turbine is
going in the directional op-posite of engine rotation. This oil now has a lower veloc-ity because it has given most of
its energy to rotate the turbine.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-2. Torque Converter Arrangement

Legend for Figure 3-2.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

DRIVE PLATE
FLYWHEEL
ACCESS COVER
HOUSING
TORQUE CONVERTER
OIL PUMP
INPUT SHAFT

The stator is between the turbine and impeller in the cen-ter of the torque converter. When the oil hits the stator
blades, the stator clutch prevents the stator from turning in the directional opposite of engine rotation.
The blades of the stator change the directional of the oil so that the oil enters the impeller in the directional of en-gine
rotation. The energy that remains in the oil flow as it leaves the stator is added to the new energy being add-ed to the
impeller by the engine. This use of energy, con-trolled by the stator, permits the torque converter to mul-tiply the
torque of the engine.
Resistance to the flow of oil in the turbine, because of centrifugal force, increases as the speed of the turbine
increases. This resistance decreases the energy and amount of oil flow to the impeller from the stator. When the
flow to the impeller decreases, the additional force added to the impeller decreases. Less torque is gener-ated when
less torque is needed.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-3.Types of Flow

CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES Description (See Figure 3-6.)
The transmission has two clutch assemblies, a Forward clutch and a Reverse clutch. The Forward and Reverse
clutch housings are on the input shaft. The input shaft is connected to the turbine of the torque converter. The
Forward and Reverse hubs are always engaged with the output gear and the reverse shaft. Hydraulic pres-sure is
used to apply one of the clutches so that power is transmitted from the engine through the transmission to the drive
wheels.
Each clutch assembly has a housing, piston, friction discs and separator plates. The friction discs and sepa-rator
plates are installed in the housing in a sequence. Each friction disc is next to a separator plate. The sepa-rator plates
have a smooth metal surface. The friction discs have a friction material on the surface. The hub in each clutch
assembly engages with the inner splines of the friction discs. The splines in the outer circumference of the separator
plates engage the splines in the clutch housing. A pressure plate holds the friction discs and separator plates in the
housing. A large return spring keeps the piston retracted against the housing. There is enough clearance in the
clutch assembly to permit the friction discs to rotate when a clutch is not applied. When hydraulic pressure is applied
to the piston, the friction discs and separator plates are pressed together and the clutch assembly rotates as a single
unit. The hydraulic pressure for the clutches is 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi) measured at the test port for the
clutch regula-tor.
An orifice in each clutch piston permits a small continu-ous oil flow from the pressure chamber in the clutch. This
orifice makes sure that the clutch will completely re-lease. The orifice also makes sure oil does not stay in the
pressure chamber of the clutch because of centrifu-gal force after the clutch is released.
The input shaft in the transmission has oil passages that connect the clutch assemblies to the control valve. There
are also oil passages in the transmission housing and the clutch assemblies for the lubrication and cooling of the
clutch assemblies. Seal rings on one end of the input shaft seal the oil passages so that oil can flow from the
passages in the transmission housing to the pas-sages in the input shaft.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-6. Clutch Assembly

Legend for Figure 3-6.
1. SNAPRING
2. BEARING
3. NEEDLE BEARING
4. REVERSE HUB
5. NEEDLE BEARING
6. SNAP RING
7. RETAINER
8. SPRING
9. RETAINER
10. PRESSUREPLATE
11. FICTION DISC
12. SEPARATOR PLATE
13. PISTON
14. SEAL RING
15. FORWARD HUB

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-7. Clutch Operation

Legend for Figure 3-7
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

INPUTSHAFT
REVERSE CLUTCH AND HUB
FORWARD CLUTCH AND HUB
REVERSE GEAR
REVERSE SHAFT
OUTPUTGEAR
PINION
RING GEAR

Operation (See Figure 3-7.)

When the engine is running, the input shaft is turning in the directional of engine rotation. When the Forward clutch is
engaged, the power from the engine is sent from the input shaft and Forward clutch assembly to the output pinion.
The flow of power is from the input shaft through the applied clutch to the Forward hub. The gear on the Forward hub
is engaged with the output gear on the pinion of the differential.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
The powersh itt transmission has a hydraulic system for control and lubrication of the transmission. The oil pump for
the transmission is driven by the torque converter. (See Figure 3-2.) The transmission pump turns with the torque
converter when the engine is running. The oil supply for the system is kept in the sump of the transmis-sion. A
screen in the suction line to the transmission pump prevents large particles from entering the hydrau-lic system of
the transmission. The oil flows through the screen in the sump, through the transmission pump, by the relief valve,
and then through the filter. (See Figure 3-9.) The pressure, controlled by the relief valve for the transmission pump,
is 1170 to 1470 kPa (170 to 213 psi). From the filter, the oil flows through passages in the transmission housing to
the control valve.

CONTROL VALVE (See Figure 3-8.)

The control valve is installed on the top of the transmis-sion. The inching spool, modulator circuit, regulator for clutch
pressure and the regulator for the torque convert-er are part of the control valve. The position of the inch-ing spool is
controlled by the inching/brake pedal.

Sheet 5: Transmission
A solenoid valve is installed at the side of the control valve. The solenoid valve is actuated by the shift lever. The
solenoid valve controls the position of the direction-al spool.

Figure 3-8. Control Valve

Legend for Figure 3-8.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.

VALVE BODY
CHECK PORT PLUG
PISTON
SPRING
STOPPER
GASKET
PIN
STOPPER
COVER
INCHING SPOOL
STOPPER
SNAP RING
OIL SEAL

Regulator for Clutch Pressure

The regulator for clutch pressure controls the oil pres-sure for applying the clutches to engage the transmis-sion.
The control pressure of the regulator is 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi). Oil that flows to the regulator for clutch
pressure flows to the torque converter circuit and oil lubrication circuit.
Inching Spool Assembly
Inching is the slow movement of a lift truck while a high engine speed is used for faster operation of the hydrau-lic
system. The inching function is normally used for fine movements of the lift truck when handling a load. Opera-tion of
the inching pedal decreases the oil pressure to a clutch so that the clutch is not completely applied.
The inching spool assembly has an inching spool, an inching spool plunger, and two springs. Oil flows to the inching
spool from the transmission pump. The inching spool controls the oil flow and pressure to the directional spool
(solenoid valve). When the inching function is not used, the oil flows through the inching spool to the direc-tional
spool. Operation of the inching function causes a restriction of the oil flow to the directional spool and the clutch. This
operation decreases the oil pressure to the directional spool (and clutch) as the inching spool plung-er is extended.
When the inching spool plunger is com-pletely extended, the oil pressure to the directional spool (and clutch) is
approximately zero. The clutch is then re-leased and the transmission is in NEUTRAL.

Sheet 5: Transmission
Direction Spool
The direction spool is inside the solenoid valve and con-trols the oil flow from the inching spool to the direction
clutches. The direction spool has three positions: FOR-WARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSE. When the direction spool
is in its FORWARD position, oil flow and pressure is sent to apply the forward clutch. When the directional spool is in
its REVERSE position, oil flow and pressure is sent to apply the reverse clutch. When the direction spool is in its
NEUTRAL position, oil pressure to both of the clutches is reduced to approximately zero. When the direction spool is
moved to control a direction of travel, oil flows to and from the clutch assemblies and also to the modulator circuit.
Electric switches in the direction control lever energize and deenergize the solenoid valve. When the direction
solenoid is energized the direction spool changes posi-tion to change the flow of oil.
Modulator Circuit
A modulator circuit is used to control the rate of applica-tion of the clutches. When the directional spool is moved to
select a directional of travel, the modulator circuit con-trols the application of the clutch during a 1.50 to 2.0 se-cond
period. The modulator circuit controls the pressure increase to apply the clutch smoothly. This delay and smooth
application of pressure reduces the shock and stress to the drive train when engaging the transmission or changing
directions.
Regulator for the Torque Converter
When the engine speed is low, the oil flows to the torque converter through an orifice in the bore in the clutch
pressure regulator. The pressure regulator for the torque converter stays closed until the pressure to the torque
converter increases to 296 to 685 kPa (43 to 100 psi). When the pressure regulator for the torque convert-er opens,
the oil that does not go to the torque converter flows directly to the passage to cool and lubricate of the parts of the
transmission. The oil that flows to the torque converter goes through the oil cooler before entering the passage to
cool and lubricate the clutches.

Figure 3-9. Hydraulic Schematic

Legend for Figure 3-9.
1. STRAINER
2. PUMP
3. CLUTCH PRESSURE REGULATOR
4. TORQUE CONVERTER REGULATOR
5. TORQUE CONVERTER
6. OIL COOLER
7. OIL FILTER
8. CLUTCH

Sheet 5: Transmission
9.
10.
11.
12.

DIRECTION SPOOL (SOLENOID VALVE)

ACCUMULATOR
INCHING SPOOL
CHECK PORT

SHIFT LEVER (See Figure 3-24.)

The shift lever is used to control the operation of the directional spool. There are two switches, one for FOR-WARD
and one for REVERSE, in the shift lever assem-bly that actuate the solenoid valve. In the NEUTRAL position, both of
the switches are closed.
FOOT DIRECTIONAL CONTROL PEDAL
(See Figure 3-10.)
The foot directional control pedal controls the speed of the engine and the operation of the directional sole-noids.
The pedal pad is held to the pedal frame by a pivot shaft. The pedal pad rotates on the shaft and is held in the
forward or reverse position by magnets in the pedal frame. There are two switches in the foot directional control
pedal assembly. When the foot directional con-trol pedal is in the forward position, both pedal switch buttons are
actuated. Battery power flows through both pedal switches to energize the forward solenoid. When the foot
directional control pedal is in the reverse posi-tion, both pedal switch buttons are released. Battery power flows
through both pedal switches to energize the reverse solenoid.
Start Circuit, Foot Directional Control Pedal
A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake supplies electrical power to the foot directional control pedal. The
foot directional control pedal energizes the solenoid valves. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the
released position, the switch in the hand lever is closed so that electrical power is supplied to the foot directional
control pedal. The forward and reverse sole-noid valves are controlled by the foot directional control pedal. When the
hand lever for the parking brake is in the applied position, the switch is open so that both of the solenoid valves
close. When both of the solenoid valves close (deenergized), the centering spring moves the directional spool to the
NEUTRAL position.
A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake ener-gizes and deenergizes the start circuit on the ignition switch.
When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the applied position, the start circuit can be energized so that the lift
truck can be started. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the released position, the start cir-cuit is
deenergized and the engine cannot be started.
When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed down, the service brakes are applied and a disc on the end of the
inching spool actuates the neutral start switch. The neu-tral start switch is in series electrically with a pressure switch
in the brake system. The disc actuates the neutral start switch and the pressure in the brake system closes the
brake switch. The pressure switch in the brake sys-tem makes sure that the brakes are applied. When the neutral
start switch and the brake switch are both closed, the start circuit, controlled by the ignition switch, can be energized.
When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed down, oil pressure to the clutch pack is reduced to zero. This operation
makes sure that the transmission clutch is disengaged and the brakes are applied when the engine is started.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-10. Foot Directional Control Pedal

Legend for Figure 3-10.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

PEDALPAD
PEDAL FRAME
MAGNET
PIVOT SHAFT
SPRING
MAGNET PLATE
SWITCH

DIFFERENTIAL
The ring and pinion gears transfer power to the axle shafts at right angles to the transmission. The ring and pinion is
also a gear reduction which increases the torque to the drive wheels. The differential assembly permits the two drive
wheels to turn at different speeds when the lift truck is turning a corner.
The ring and pinion gears are held in position in the transmission case by the differential housing. The hous-ing for
the drive axle is fastened to the differential hous-ing. The output gear for the transmission is installed on the pinion
shaft. The output gear is in constant mesh with the gears of the Forward clutch hub and the Rever-se shaft.
TORQUE CONVERTER AND TRANSMISSION PUMP
NOTE: The torque converter cannot be repaired.
Removal And Disassembly
(See Figure 3-11. and Figure 3-12.)
CAUTION
Be careful that you do not damage parts of the torque converter or transmission when the trans-mission is separated
from the engine. Keep the transmission and engine in alignment until they are completely separated so that parts of
the trans-mission are not damaged. Use a crane or lifting de-vice to separate the transmission from the engine.
1.

Remove the access cover from the top of the torque converter housing.

Sheet 5: Transmission
2.

Remove the capscrews that hold the drive plate to the flywheel.

3.
Remove the capscrews that hold the torque converter housing to the engine. Remove the starter. Carefully
separate the transmission from the engine. Make sure the torque converter stays with the transmission.
4.
Install the pump on the housing. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the capscrews. Tighten the
cap-screws to 20 Nm (177 lbf in). Check that the drive gear rotates freely in the body.
5.

Install the torque converter, making sure the notches align with the gear in the oil pump.

Figure 3-11. Torque Converter And Housing

Legend for Figure 3-11.
1. TORQUE CONVERTER ASSEMBLY
2. CONVERTER
3. DRIVE PLATE
4. CAPSCREW
5. WASHER
6. WASHER
7. FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY
8. BOLT
9. BACKPLATE
10. FLANGE
11. LOCKWASHER
12. BOLT
13. WASHER

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-12. Transmission Pump

Legend for Figure 3-12.
1. SHAFT
2. BOLT
3. OIL SEAL
4. 0-RING
CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES
Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 3-13. and Figure 3-15.)
1.

Remove the torque converter housing.

2. Remove the capscrews for the bearing retainer for the reverse shaft. Remove the reverse shaft from the
trans-mission.
3. Remove the input shaft and clutch assembly from the transmission.
4. Remove the seal rings from both ends of the input shaft.
5. Remove the snap ring for the ball bearing. Use a puller to remove the bearing carrier and the ball bearing.
6. Remove the spacer and reverse clutch hub.
7. Remove the retaining ring and pressure plate from the reverse clutch. Remove the friction discs and separator
plates.
8. Remove the piston only if there is a problem with the piston or seals. Use two punches to push the spring re-tainer
down. See Figure 3-13. Remove the snap ring for the retainer. Remove the retainer, spring and piston. Pull the
piston from the clutch housing. Remove the seal from the circumference of the piston and the 0-ring from the shaft.
WARNING
The spring for the piston is compressed. Make sure the spring and spring retainer can not cause iniury when the
snap ring is removed.
NOTE: Some service people make a special bracket so that the spring and retainer can be compressed and held
with a press to remove the snap ring.
9. Remove the snap ring for the ball bearing for the for-ward clutch. Use a puller to remove the forward clutch hub,
spacer and the ball bearing.
10. Remove the remaining clutch parts as described in Steps 7 and 8.

Sheet 5: Transmission
Inspection
Inspect the gears and all splines for wear or damage. Repair or replace parts as needed.
Assembly And Installation (See Figure 3-11. and Figure 3-12.)
1. Apply a silicone gasket material to the mounting sur-face of the transmission housing. Install the torque con-verter
housing on the transmission housing. Be sure to align the holes in the torque converter housing with the holes in the
bearing carrier. When the holes are aligned, install the housings together.
2. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the socket head capscrews for the bearing retainer. See item 16, Figure
3-1 5.Tighten the capscrews to 10 Nm (89 lbf in). Install the capscrews that hold the housings together and tighten
them to 41 Nm (30 lbf ft).
3. Assemble the transmission pump as follows:
a.

Lubricate the parts of the pump with clean trans-mission oil.

b.

Install a new oil seal in the pump body.

c.
Install the gears and stator shaft on the pump body. Make sure the side of the drive gear with grooves is
toward the torque converter. Use a gasket sealant on both sides of the washers and install the two capscrews.
Tighten the capscrews to9to 16 Nm (8Otol42lbfin).
d.

Install a new 0-ring on the pump body.

4.

Remove the torque converter from the transmission.

5.

Remove the transmission pump from the housing. Disassemble the pump as follows:
a. Remove the capscrews that hold the pump body to the stator shaft.
b. Remove the gears from the pump. Remove the seal and 0-ring from the pump.

Figure 3-13. Piston Return Spring

Legend for Figure 3-13.

1. PUNCH
2. SNAP RING
3. SPRING RETAINER

Sheet 5: Transmission
4. PISTON
Inspection
1. Inspect the gears for the clutch assemblies and the differential gears for wear or damage.
2. Check all parts that have splines for damage to the splines. Check for notches worn in the splines.
3. Inspect the friction discs for burned lining or bent sur-faces. Check for small holes in the lining. Replace the friction
discs if one-half the depth of the oil grooves are worn away or the discs are damaged. Discard a friction disc that has
a thickness less than 1.70 mm (0.067 in).
4. The separator plates must not be bent, have dam-aged surfaces, or have large blue areas from too much heat.
5. Inspect the bearings for wear or damage.
6. Inspect the piston for damage. Make sure that the sealing surfaces are good. Make sure the orifice is clean.
7. Check for grooves or other damage on the machined surfaces of the shaft. Check the seal rings for damage and
wear. Check the seal ring surfaces in the housing for damage.
Assembly (See Figure 3-13. and Figure 3-15.)
NOTE: Lubricate the parts of the clutch assemblies with clean transmission oil.
1. Use the following procedures for either the forward or reverse clutch:
a.

Install the seals on the piston and on the shaft. Install the piston in the housing.

WARNING
The spring for the clutch must be compressed.
Make sure the spring and spring retainer can not cause injury when the snap ring is installed.
NOTE: Some service people make a special bracket so that the spring and retainer can be compressed and held
with a press to install the snap ring.
b.
Install the piston spring and retainer. See Figure 3-13. Use two punches to push the spring retainer down.
Install the snap ring for the retain-er.
c.
Install the friction discs and separator plates in an alternate sequence. Start with a separator plate against
the piston. Install the pressure plate and retaining ring.
d.
Install the thrust washer and clutch hub. Make sure the inner chamfer on the thrust washer is to-ward the
clutch pack.
2. On the Forward clutch, install the thrust washer and ball bearing on the shaft. Make sure the inner chamfer on the
thrust washer is toward the clutch assembly. Install the snap ring. Install the seal rings on the shaft.
3. On the Reverse clutch, install the thrust washer so that the inner chamfer on the thrust washer is toward the clutch
pack. Apply Loctite242 in the area of the bear-ing carrier for the bearing. Install the bearing, making sure the
adhesive does not get into the bearing. After the adhesive is dry, install the bearing on the shaft. Install the snap ring.
Install the seal ring.
Installation (See Figure 3-15.)
1. Lubricate the seal rings and install the clutch assem-bly in the housing.
2. Install the reverse shaft and bearing. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the capscrews for the bear-ing
retainer. Tighten the capscrews to 20 Nm (177 lbf in).

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-14. Transmission Arrangement

Legend for Figure 3-14.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

SHIMS
ROLLER BEARING
OIL SEAL
BEARING
OUTPUT GEAR
LOCKNUT
NUT
LOCKWASHER
REVERSE SHAFT
PLUG

11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.

BEARING
BEARING
GEAR
WASHER
RETAINING RING
RETAINING RING
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
SCREW
LOCKWASHER
RING GEAR AND PINION

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-15. Clutch Assemblies

Legend for Figure 3-15.
1.
SEAL RING
SNAP RING
2.
BEARING
3.
SPACER
4.
FORWARD HUB
5.
THRUST WASHER
6.
RETAINER
7.
SPRING
8.
RETAINING RING
9.
PRESSURE PLATE
10.
FRICTION DISC
11.
SEPARATOR PLATE
12.
PISTON
13.
PISTON SEAL
14.

Sheet 5: Transmission
15.
16.
17.

CLUTCH HOUSING
BEARING RETAINER
REVERSE HUB

DIFFERENTIAL
Removal And Disassembly
(See Figure 3-16. and Figure 3-17.)
1. Disassemble only the parts of the differential that must be repaired. If the ring gear and pinion are not to be
replaced, check the contact pattern before disassembly The pattern and gear clearance are used as references for
assembly. See the Differential, Assembly And Instal-lation section for the procedures.
2. Before removing the differential assembly, measure the outside diameter of the case as shown in Figure 3-16.
This dimension is necessary when the parts are assembled.

Figure 3-16. Measure The Differential Case

3. Make a note of the positions of the adjusting nuts for the ring gear. Remove the bearing caps, adjusting nuts and
the differential assembly.
4. Remove the nuts and lock washer from the pinion shaft. Remove the output gear. Push the pinion shaft from the
bearings.
5. Remove the outer bearing cup and shims. Make a note of the shim arrangement. If the pinion will not be
re-placed, the shim arrangement will be approximately the same when the differential is assembled again. Remove
the inner bearing cup and oil seal.
6. Disassemble the differential as needed to make re-pairs. Remove the ring gear from the differential case.
Remove the roll pin and shaft. Remove the differential pinions, side gears and thrust washers.
Inspection
1. Check the pinion and ring gear for wear. Inspect the side gears and differential pinions for worn teeth. In-spect the
shaft for wear where the gears turn. The shaft and the holes for the shaft in the differential case must fit tightly.
2. Check all bearings for wear and damage. Replace a worn or damaged part.
Assembly And Installation (See Figure 3-17.)
NOTE: When the ring gear and pinion are worn or dam-aged, they must be replaced as a set. Always check that the
gears are a matched set.
NOTE: The pinion variation number, which is indicated in millimeters, is located on the end of the pinion. The
number is used to adjust the the depth of the pinion in the housing (for example,+.01 or -.02). This procedure is
described in the following paragraphs.
When a new ring and pinion assembly is installed:
1.

The pinion and ring gear are made in sets. Both the ring gear and pinion must have the same numbers.

Sheet 5: Transmission
When pinion bearings are replaced or the ring gear and pinion are replaced, the shim ar-rangement must be
adjusted for the new parts. Most service people do not have the equipment used by the manufacturer to find the
shim ar-rangement before the differential is assembled. Service people must often make more than one adjustment
before the clearances are correct. The differential must be disassembled for adjust-ment and assembled again for
checks. The ad-justments are correct when the gear clearance and the contact pattern between the pinion and ring
gear are correct and the preload on the pin-ion bearings is correct.
2.

Look at the pinion variation number on the pinion that is being replaced.

The dimension on the end of the pinion is the vari-ation from the standard Gauge Distance. The Gauge Distance is
the distance from the center of the ring gear to the bearing shoulder behind the pinion. (See Figure 3-19.) Shims
must beadded, or removed from, between the outer bearing cup and the housing to adjust for manufacturing
toler-ances.
3.
Look at the number on the pinion that was re-moved. Subtract variation number that is on the new pinion.
The remainder is the amount of shim thickness that must be adjusted from the shim set on the pinion that was
removed. For examples, see Figure 3-18. In examples 3 and 4 you can see that a negative number shows that
shims must be removed. Examples 1 and 2 show that shims must be added to the original shim set. Use this shim
set as a reference. The final adjustment of the shim set is according to the contact pattern on the ring gear teeth.
See Figure 3-21.

Figure 3-17. Differential Assembly

Legend for Figure 3-17.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

THRUSTWASHER
SIDE GEAR
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
ADJUSTING NUT
BEARING ASSEMBLY
SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
ROLL PIN
RING GEAR
PINION

Installation of the pinion assembly:

(See Figure 3-19.)
1.
Install the oil seal in the housing. Install the inner bearing cup in the housing. Install the shims and the outer
bearing cup.

Sheet 5: Transmission
2.
gear.

Install the pinion in the transmission housing. Install the inner bearing cone on the pinion. Install the output

3.
Install and tighten the pinion nut. Measure the gauge distance and add or remove shims until the
measurement is within 126.9 to 127.1 mm (4.996 to 5.004 in).
4.
When the measurement in Step 3 is correct, ad-just the preload on the pinion bearings. Tighten the nut on
the pinion shaft until the rotating torque is 5.4 to 5.9 Nm (47.8 to 52.2 lbf in). When the pre-load is correct, install the
lock washer and lock nut. Lubricate the lock washer with grease before installation. Bend the tabs on the lock
washer to keep the nuts in position.
EXAMPLES
Number on OLD PINION minus the
number on the NEW PINION
SHIMS to be REMOVED FROM or
ADDED TO theOLDSET
EXAMPLES
Number on OLD PINION minus the
number on the NEW PINION
SHIMS to be REMOVED FROM or
ADDED TO the OLD SET

1
+0.31-(+0.26)

2
+0.31-(-0.26)

+0.05 mm
Add
3
+0.26-(+0.31)

+0.57
Add
4
-0.26-(+0.31)

-0.05mm Remove

mm

-0.57 mm Remove

Figure 3-18. Adlustment Of The Shims For The

Pinion Assembly

Assemble the differential and ring gear assembly:

1.
If the ring gear was removed from the differential case, put the ring gear in hot water that is 82 to 1 050C
(180 to 2200F) for approximately ten min-utes. Remove the ring gear from the water and put it on the differential
case. Do not use a press or a hammer to install the ring gear. Tighten the special capscrews to 152 to 167 Nm (112
to 123 lbfft).
2.

Lubricate and install the side gears and thrust washer in the differential case.

3.

Install the differential pinions and the shaft. Install the roll pin that holds the shaft in the case.

4.

Install the bearing cones on the differential case.

5.
Apply axle lubricant on the inner diameter of the bearing cups and on both bearing cones that are installed
on the differential. Do not permit lubri-cant on the outer diameter of the bearing cups or the bearing bores of the
differential housing.
6.
Install the differential assembly into the transmis-sion housing. Install the bearing cups, adjusting nuts and
bearing caps.
7.
Install the capscrews for the bearing caps and tighten them to approximately 68 Nm (50 lbf ft). Use your
hand to tighten each adjusting nut against the bearing cup.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-19. Ring Gear And Pinion Arrangement

Legend for Figure 3-19.
1. BALLBEARING
2. LOCKNUT
3. LOCKWASHER
4. NUT
5. WASHER
6. OUTPUT GEAR
7. BEARING ASSEMBLY
8. OIL SEAL
9. SHIMS
10. CASE
11. PINION
12. BEARING CAP
13. GAUGE DISTANCE = 127 mm (4.99 in)
8.
Tighten the adjusting nuts to remove the clear-ance between the adjusting nuts and the bear-ings. Make
sure there is clearance between the ring gear and pinion. Loosen the adjusting nut only until there is zero clearance
between the bearings and the adjusting nuts. Tighten one ad-justing nut four notches more than zero clearance to
put a preload on the bearings. The correct ro-tating torque of the differential assembly is 2.9 to 3.4 Nm (25.7 to 30.1
lbf in).
9.
Check the clearance between the ring gear and pinion. The ring gear and pinion must have a clearance of
0.18 to 0.23 mm (0.007 to 0.009 in). (See Figure 3-20.) Move the ring gear towards the pinion to decrease the
clearance. Move the ring gear away from the pinion to increase the clearance. Loosen one adjusting nut the same
amount as the other adjusting nut is tightened to adjust the clearance between the ring gear and pinion. When the
clearance is correct, apply a thread locking adhesive to the capscrews for the bearing caps. Tighten the capscrews
to 263 to 314 Nm (194to2321bfft).
10.
Check the pattern on the teeth of the ring gear by applying grease to the teeth. Put a prybar be-tween the
ring gear and the housing to keep the ring gear from turning freely. Turn the pinion shaft. Compare the pattern on the
ring gear teeth with the patterns shown in Figure 3-21. Adjust the gear clearances as necessary. An adjustment of
the pinion to move the contact pattern also nor-mally requires an adjustment of the ring gear clearance as described
in step m.
11.
Measure the outside diameter of the case as shown in Figure 3-16. Compare the dimension with the
measurement made during disassembly. They will be approximately the same. The inside diameter of the support in
the axle housing for the case is 254.0 to 254.1 mm (9.99 to 10.00 in).
12.

When all adjustments are complete, install the cotter pins for the adjusting nuts.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-20. Check The Clearance Between The Ring Gear And Pinion
STEP 1.

Apply a colored dye or grease to approximately 12 of the ring gear teeth.

STEP 2.
Apply a small friction load to the edge ol the ring gear so that the ring gear does not turn easily.
Rotate the ring gear one revolution by turning the pinion.
STEP 3.
Check the tooth contact pattern on the ring gear. Make sure that the pattern is checked on the side
of the tooth where the pinion applies the force.

CORRECT TOOTH CONTACT

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-21. Adjust The Ring Gear And Pinion Tooth Contact
ADJUSTMENT
The contact area is the center between the top and the bottom of the tooth. The contact area is toward the inner
circumference of the ring gear.
The contact area is the center between the top and the bottom of the tooth. The contact area will be
almost the full length of the tooth.
The pinion is too far away from the center of the ring gear.
Move the ring gear away from the pinion or, add shims to move pinion toward ring gear. Check that the gear
clearance is correct. Remember, moving the pinion will change the gauge distance.
The pinion is too close to the center of the ring gear.
Move the ring gear toward the pinion, or remove shims to move pinion away from the ring gear. Check that the gear
clearance is correct. Remember, moving the pinion will change the gauge distance.

CONTROL VALVE (See Figure 3-22.) Disassembly Removal

WARNING
1.

Clean the area around the control valve.

Sheet 5: Transmission
2.

Disconnect the inching spool from the crank. Discon-nect the wires from the solenoid valve.

3.
Remove the capscrews that hold the control valve to the transmission. Remove the control valve. Put a
cover on top of the transmission to keep dirt from inside of the transmission.
4.
Remove the solenoid valve from the control valve. Disassemble the solenoid valve as necessary. Only the
0-rings and solenoid coil can be replaced. See Figure 3-23.
5.

Remove the stop (10) for the modulator. Remove the modulator and springs.

6.
Remove the pin from the inching spool. Remove the spring seat, spring and plunger (9).
There are compressed springs in the control valve. Carefully remove the covers so that the com-pressed springs do
not cause in~ury.
1.
Remove the cover (9). Remove the clutch pressure regulator piston, the springs, and stopper (5). Keep the
springs with the regulator.
2.

Remove the inching spool assembly.

3.

Remove the pin from the inching spool (10). Remove the stopper (8), the springs, and piston (3).

Inspection
1.

Make sure there are no scratches or damage on the spools or in the bores.

2.

Check that the springs are not bent or damaged.

3.

Make sure the spools move freely in their bores.

Figure 3-22. Control Valve

Legend for Figure 3-22.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

VALVE BODY
CHECK PORT PLUG
PISTON
SPRING
STOPPER
GASKET
PIN
STOPPER

Sheet 5: Transmission
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.

COVER
INCHING SPOOL
STOPPER
SNAP RING
OILSEAL

Assembly
NOTE: Lubricate the parts of the control valve with clean transmission oil during assembly.
1.

Install the piston (3) on the inching spool. Install the spring, stopper (8), and the pin.

2.
Install the clutch pressure regulator piston, the springs, and stopper (5). Install the inching spool as-sembly,
the spring, and a new oil seal (13).
3.
lbfft).

Install a new gasket (7) on the cover (6). Install the cover and tighten the capscrews to 12 to 15 Nm (9 to 11

Installation
1.

Assemble the solenoid valve as shown in Figure 3-23. Use new 0-rings and install the solenoid valve.

2.
Use a new gasket and install the control valve on the transmission. Tighten the capscrews for the control
valve 61 Nm (45 lbf ft). Connect the wires at the solenoid valve.
3.

Connect the inching spool to the crank.

Figure 3-23. Solenoid Valve

Legend for Figure 3-23.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

VALVE BODY
0-RING
COVER
SOLENOID COIL
TUBE
PLUG

SHIFT LEVER
Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 3-24.)

Sheet 5: Transmission
1.

Remove the cover for the steering column.

2.
Disconnect the wires at the switches for the shift lever. Make sure the wires have identification marks for
cor-rect installation.
3. Remove the capscrews that hold the mount for the shift lever to the steering housing. Remove the shift le-ver
assembly.
4. Disassemble the shift lever assembly as necessary.
Assembly and Installation (See Figure 3-24.)
1. Install the switches, stops and jam nuts in the mount.
2. Lubricate the pins (7) and actuators (8) with grease.
Install the pins, actuators and spacers in the mount.
Install the clips in the pins. Make sure the actuators fit on
top of the switches.
3. Install the spring and detent ball in the shift lever. Install the shift lever in the mount. Install the bracket on the shift
lever. Install the capscrews for the bracket. Lu-bricate the detent ball the the bottom surface of the detent pins with
grease.
4.

Adjust the height of the stops to 26 mm (1.02 in). Tight-en the jam nuts. See Figure 3-25.

5.
Install the mount on the steering housing. Connect the
wires to the switches. The brown wire goes to the FOR-WARD switch. The light green wire goes to the RE-VERSE
switch.
6.
Adjust the height of the switches. See Figure 3-25. Adjust the FORWARD switch so that it is actuated at a
point half-way between the detent positions for NEU-TRAL and FORWARD. After the adjustment is correct, rotate
the switch clockwise approximately 1/2 turn. Tight-en the jam nut. The height of the nut on the switch will be
approximately 10 mm (0.4 in). Adjust the REVERSE switch so that it is actuated at a point half-way between the
detent positions for NEUTRAL and REVERSE. After the adjustment is correct, rotate the switch clockwise
approximately 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. The height of the nut on the switch will be approximately 10 mm (0.4 in).
7. Start the engine and check that the shift lever oper-ates the transmission correctly.
NOTE: THE SHIFT LEVER CAN EXTEND FROM THE RIGHT SIDE, LEFT SIDE OR
BOTH SIDES OF THE STEERING COLUMN.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-24. Shift Lever Arrangement

Legend for Figure 3-24.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

SHIFT LEVER
KNOB
BUSHING
SPRING
DETENT BALL
CLIP
PIVOT PIN

8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.

ACTUATOR
SPACER
SWITCH
MOUNT
BRACKET
STOP
JAM NUT

Figure 3-25. Shift Lever Adlustment

Legend for Figure 3-25.

Sheet 5: Transmission
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

SHIFT LEVER
STOP
JAM NUT
REVERSE SWITCH
FORWARD SWITCH
ACTUATOR
MOUNT

FOOT DIRECTIONAL CONTROL PEDAL

Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 3-26.)

1. Disconnect the wires at the transmission. Note the position of the throttle cable and link before removal to aid in
installation. Disconnect the throttle cable. Remove the capscrew that holds the pedal to the bracket, then remove the
pedal.
2. Remove the straps that hold the wires to the pedal. Loosen the set screws in the pedal pad 3 to 4 turns and
remove the pivot pin. Remove the pedal pad and spring.
3. Remove the retainer for the wires. Loosen the screws for the switches, then remove the switches and wires.
4. If necessary, remove the lock nuts for the magnets, then remove the magnets from the pedal frame. Make sure
the screws are tight in the magnets. Use a thread locking compound on the screws if they are loose in the magnets.

Figure 3-26. Foot Directional Control Pedal

Legend for Figure 3-26.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

PEDALPAD
PEDAL FRAME
MAGNET
PIVOT SHAFT
SPRING
MAGNET PLATE
SWITCH

Assembly and Installation

(See Figure 3-26. Through Figure 3-30.)

Sheet 5: Transmission
1. Install the switches and wires in the pedal pad. Align the surface of the switches with the machined surface of the
mount in the pedal pad. The switches must be even with or below the alignment surface as shown in Figure 3-27.
Install the retainer for the wires.

Figure 3-27. Foot Directional Control Pedal Switches

Legend for Figure 3-27.
1. PEDALPAD
2. SWITCH
3. ALIGNMENT SURFACE
4. SURFACE OF SWITCH
NOTE: These sealed switches can only be repaired as an assembly.
2. Put the wires through the hole in the pedal frame. In-stall the spring and pedal pad on the pedal frame. Install the
pivot pin. Apply athread locking compound to the set screws. Install and tighten the set screws. Use straps to hold
the wires to the pedal frame.
3. See Figure 3-28. Do the following procedure to check and adjust the pedal assembly:
a.

Put the pedal assembly in a vise. Use a dial indi-cator to measure the movement of the pedal pad.

b.
Push the REVERSE side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the Reverse side of the pedal pad as shown.
Loosen the lock nut and rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until it stops. Set the dial indicator to zero.
Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle moves 0.25 mm (0.01 in) from zero. This
adjustment makes sure the magnet is in contact with the plate in the pedal pad. Rotate the screw for the magnet
counterclockwise until the gauge needle indi-cates zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge
needle indicates 0.05 mm (0.002 in) movement. Tighten the lock nut to 5.2 Nm (46 lbf in) torque without changing
the ad-justment.
c.
Push on the FORWARD side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the Forward side of the pedal pad as
shown. Loosen the lock nut and rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until it stops. Set the dial indicator
to zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle moves 0.25 mm (0.01 in) from zero. This
adjustment makes sure the magnet is in contact with the plate in the pedal pad. Rotate the screw for the magnet
counterclockwise until the gauge needle indicates zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge
needle indi-cates 0.05 mm (0.002 in) movement. Tighten the lock nut to 5.2 Nm (46 lbf in) torque without changing
the adjustment.
d.
Use an ohmmeter to check the operation of the switches. When the FORWARD side of the pedal is
depressed, there must be a complete circuit between the red (battery) and black (forward so-lenoid) wires. When the
REVERSE side of the pedal is depressed, there must be a complete cir-cuit between the red (battery) and yellow
(reverse solenoid) wires.
e.
Push on the FORWARD side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the FORWARD side of the pedal pad as
shown. Connect an ohmmeter between the red and black wires. Check that there is a complete circuit between the
wires. Push on the REVERSE side of the pedal. The pedal must move 1.00 mm (0.039 in) minimum from the
FORWARD position before the circuit is discon-nected.

Sheet 5: Transmission

Figure 3-28. Adlustment Of The Foot Directional Control Pedal

Legend for Figure 3-28.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

LOCKNUT
MAGNET
PLATE
DIAL INDICATOR
PEDAL FRAME
PEDAL PAD

NOTE: For the correct operation of the foot directional control pedal, the magnets must have the correct strength.
4. See Figure 3-29. Test the strength of the magnets as follows:
a.
Put the pedal assembly in a vise. Use a spring scale to change the pedal from the FORWARD and
REVERSE positions as shown in Figure 3-29.
b.
When pushing on the spring scale, it must take 13.3 to 31.1 N (3.6 to 7.0 lb) to change from FOR-WARD to
REVERSE and REVERSE to FOR-WARD positions. If the force is not within the specifications, replace the
magnet(s).

Figure 3-29. Check The Magnets For The Foot

Directional Control Pedal
Legend for Figure 3-29.
1. PEDALPAD
2. SPRING SCALE
5. With the pad located in either FORWARD or RE-VERSE check to assure a minimum of 2.0 mm (0.079 in) total
pad travel when changed to the opposite position. If 2.0 mm (0.079 in) is not obtained do the adjustment again. If the
2.0 mm (0.079 in) is still not obtained re-place the pedal pad.

Sheet 5: Transmission
6.
Install the capscrew, washers, tube and nut that hold the pedal assembly to the bracket. Connect the link
be-tween the pedal and the crank noted during removal.
7.
Install the pedal return springs. Make sure the throttle cable is connected to the correct position as noted
dur-ing removal.
1.
Operate the lift truck until the engine and transmission are at normal operating temperatures. Connect a
tachometer to the engine. When the engine is at the nor-mal operating temperature, make sure the engine will
operate at the governor speed limit.
2.
Start the engine and tilt the mast backward. Put blocks under the outer mast channels. Tilt the mast forward
to raise the drive wheels from the surface.
3.
All oil pressures are checked with the engine operat-ing at 2000 rpm. The operating temperature of the
trans-mission oil is 65 to 700C (150 to 1600F).
Check The Transmission Pump Pressure,
TEST PORT NO.1
Apply the parking brake. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL. If the pressure from the transmission is not 1170 to 1470
kPa (170 to 213 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.
Check The Torque Converter Inlet Pressure,
TEST PORT NO.2
Apply the parking brake. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL. If the pressure from the transmission is not 296 to 685 kPa
(43 to 100 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING pro-cedures.
Check The Clutch Pressure, TEST PORT NO.3

Figure 3-30. Foot Directional Control Pedal

Legend for Figure 3-30.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

PEDALPAD
LINK
CRANK
PEDAL FRAME
FORWARD SOLENOID (BLACK WIRE)
BATTERY (RED WIRE)
REVERSE SOLENOID (YELLOW WIRE)

Sheet 5: Transmission
TRANSMISSION PRESSURE TESTS
See the TROUBLESHOOTING table for reasons that cause pressures that do not meet the specifications. Test
Ports 1 to 3 are shown in Figure 3-31. These test ports are normally used to check the operation of the transmission.
Install three 0 to 2000 kPa (0 to 300 psi) pressure gauges in the test ports shown in Figure 3-31. The regulators in
this transmission are adjustable. The pressure tests are for troubleshooting. Before checking the oil pressures, do
the following:
1.
Put the transmission in FORWARD. If the pressure is not 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi), see the
TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.
2.
Run the engine at 2000 rpm and push the inching ped-al down. The clutch pressure must decrease to
approxi-mately zero pressure when the inching pedal is fully pushed down.
3.
Put the transmission in REVERSE. If the pressure is not 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi), see the
TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.
4.
Run the engine at 2000 rpm and push the inching ped-al down. The clutch pressure must decrease to
approxi-mately zero pressure when the inching pedal is fully pushed down.
5.
The difference in the Forward and Reverse clutch pressures can not be more than 100 kPa (15 psi). A
larg-er difference in clutch pressures indicates a problem.
TRANSMISSION PRESSURES
ITEM
Test Port No.1
Test Port No.2
Test Port No.3

SPECIFICATION
1170-1470 kPa (170-213 psi)
296-685 kPa (43-100 psi)
1075-1370 kPa (156-200 psi)

TORQUE CONVERTER STALL SPEEDS

Figure 3-31. Pressure Test Ports, Torque Converter Housing and Control Valve
Legend for Figure 3-31.
1. TEST PORT NO.1 PUMP PRESSURE
2. TEST PORT NO.2 TORQUE CONVERTER INLET
3. TEST PORT NO.3 CLUTCH PRESSURE

TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
Engine will not start.

POSSIBLE CAUSE
the transmission is not in
NEUTRAL.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Apply parking brake and put
transmission control lever in
NEUTRAL

Sheet 5: Transmission

Transmission is too
hot

The parking brake is applied but

the switch in the parking brake
lever is not operating correctly
The neutral start switches at the
direction control lever are not
connected, out of adjustment or
havedamage.

Check and adjust switch. Install

new
switch.
Check connections and adjust
switches. Install new switches or
parts
as necessary

Operator slipping clutches.

Excessive inching and trying to
push or move loads greater than
capacity.
Oil level is not correct.

Train the operator. Evaluate

application. Handle only loads
within rated capacity.

Clutch does not engage

completely.
Clutch pressure is too low.

Worn or wrong friction discs or

separator plates.
Engine coolant level low. Radiator
core dirty. Cooling system
pressure not to specification
Oil cooler in radiator has a
restriction.
The torque converter is worn or
has damage.
Clutch discs are bent, release
springs are weak or clutch is not
fully releasing.
Charge pump is worn or damaged
Clutch assembly will not disengage
completely because orifice in
piston has a restriction
Bubbles in the oil fill
tube.

Air leak on the suction side of the

transmission charge pump.
Oil level is not correct.
Water in the oil.

Oil is too hot.

The torque converter is damaged.

Lift truck will not

move in either
direction. Engine is
running, direction
control lever is in
position for travel,
and parking brake is
released.

Check oil level. Fill as required.

Check for leaks.
Install new parts as required.
Check and adjust
pressure(s).Repair or install new
pressure regulator valve(s). Repair
or install new charge pump.
Install new discs and plates.
Check and fill cooling system.
Clean radiator core. Check system
pressure. Install new radiator cap.
Flush oil cooler. If problem not
corrected, install new oil cooler or
radiator.
Preform stall test. Repair or install
new torque converter
Repair and install new parts.
Overhaul transmission.
Repair or install new charge pump.
Remove restriction. Clean system.
Fill with correct clean oil

Repair leak. Install new parts as

required.
Check and adjust oil to the correct
level.
Check oil supply and storage. Oil
cooler has damage. Install new oil
cooler or radiator. Drain system
and fill with clean oil.
See 'Transmission is too hot.'
Preform stall test. Repair or install
new torque converter.

Switches at direction control lever.

have damage or are not connected.

Check wiring and adjust switches

Install new switches.

Transmission oil level is too low

Check and fill to correct level.

Check for leaks.

Sheet 5: Transmission
.

Axle shaft(s) or
transmission/differential is
damaged.
Brakes are not released.
Forward and Reverse solenoids do
not operate.

Transmission pump is damaged.

Pressure regulator(s) is in the open
position.
Direction spool will not move.
Torque converter is disconnected
from the flywheel.
Tube to direction spool is damaged
or disconnected.
Control valve gasket is damaged.
Control valve is damaged.

Lift truck moves in

one direction only.

Clutch parts are damaged.

Clutch for the direction selected not
engaged.
Clutch for opposite direction is not
releasing.

Control valve gasket is damaged

Control valve is damaged.

Inching operation is
not smooth.

Check operation of parking and

service brakes. Repair as required.
Check switches at control lever.
Check wiring to solenoids. Check
solenoids. Install new parts as
required.
Check pressures at the control
valve. Install new pump.
Check operation of pressure
regulators. Repair or install new
parts.
Check operation of directional
spool. Repair or install new spool.
Check torque converter mounting
hardware. Repair as required.
Check tube. Connect or install new
tube.
Remove control valve and check
gasket. Install new gasket.
Check operation of control valve.
Install new control valve.
Check clutch pressure. Check
operation of control valve.
Check pressure for clutch that
is not operating at the control
valve
Make sure directional spool in
control valve is operating
correctly. Check to make sure
the clutch pressure goes to
zero when opposite direction is
selected.
Remove control valve and
check gasket. Install new
gasket.
Check operation of control
valve. Install new control valve.

Brakes are not correctly adjusted.

Adjust brakes.

Inching spool or plunger does not

move freely.
Broken spring(s) for inching spool or
plunger.
Clutch piston does not move freely.
Control valve has leaks.

Repair or install new parts.

Clutch discs are bent or burned.

Inching linkage is not adjusted
correctly.
Clutches do not
engage. (Clutch
operating pressures
are not correct)

Repair or install new parts.

Install new springs.

Repair or install new parts.
Repair or install new control
valve.
Repair or install new clutch
discs.
Adjust linkage.

Transmission pump is damaged.

Check pressures at the control

valve. Install new pump.

Control valve gasket is damaged.

Remove control valve. Install

new gasket.

Sheet 5: Transmission
Clutch piston does not move.

Clutch piston seal has a leak.

Modulator valve has a leak.

Direction spool does not move freely.

Friction discs are bent or damaged.

Regulator valves are damaged.
0-ring on clutch shaft is damaged.

0-rings for solenoid valve stems in

the control valve are damaged.
Parts in the control valve are damaged.

Pressure at the torque

The pressure for the relief valve of the

transmission pump is not correct.
Spring or spool for the torque
converter regulator is damaged.
There is a leak or restriction in the
circuit for the torque converter.
The oil cooler circuit has a leak or
restriction.

All pressures are too

low.

Oil level is not correct.

Pressure at the relief valve for the
transmission pump is not correct.

Worn transmission oil pump.

Pressure regulators are stuck open.

Leaks inside the transmission.

Pressure at the relief

valve for the
transmission pump is
not correct.

Check the operation of the

modulator valve to determine if
the piston moves. Disassemble
transmission and repair clutch
piston.
Check for correct pressure.
Disassemble transmission and
install new clutch piston seal.
Check operation of modulator
valve. Repair modulator valve.
Install new control valve.
Check operation of direction
spool. Repair or install new
control valve.
Repair and install new parts.
Overhaul transmission.
Check pressures. Repair or
install new regulator valves.
Check clutch pressure.
Disassemble transmission and
install new 0-ring on clutch
shaft.
Check operation of solenoid
valves.
Install new 0-rings or new
solenoid valve.
Check operation and pressures
of control valve. Repair or
install new control valve.

Check and adjust the pressure

relief valve for the transmission
pump
Check, clean, and install new
parts as required. Adjust the
torque converter pressure.
Check, clean, repair, and install
new parts as required
Check, clean, repair, and install
new parts as required.
Check oil level. Fill as required.
Check for leaks.
See next problem,'~Pressure at
the relief valve for the
transmission pump is not
correct'.
Install new pump.
Check operation of the
regulator valves. Install new
parts as required.
Check the operation of each
spool in the control valve.

Oil level is not correct.

Check oil level. Fill as required.

Check for leaks.

Worn transmission oil pump.

Oil filter has a restriction.
Spring for pump relief valve is

Install new pump.

Install new filter.
Check, clean, and install new
parts

Sheet 5: Transmission

Clutch pressure is not

correct.

damaged. Spool does not move.

as required.

The pressure for the relief valve of the

transmission pump is not correct.
Clutch regulator is not operating
correctly or has damage.
Linkage for the inching spool is not
adjusted correctly.
Inching spool and/or direction spool
are not operating correctly.
Forward and Reverse solenoids do not
operate correctly.

Check and adjust torque

converter relief pressure.
Check, clean, and install new
parts as required.
Check and adjust linkage for
the inching spool.
Check, clean, repair, and install
new parts as required.
Check switches at control
lever. Check wiring to
solenoids. Check solenoids.
Install new parts as required.
Verify that clutch piston seals
are leaking by checking the
pressure during the operation
of the modulator valve.
Disassemble transmission and
install new piston seals.

Seals for clutch piston leak.