7th International Seminar on Sustainable Technology Development

Sustainable Clothing: Production and Consumption

Universitat Politcnica de Catalunya
27 May 2014

Conditions
for Sustainable Fashion Initiatives
A case local study for Catalonia

Dennis de Witte, dennisdewitte@xs4all.nl

Albena Pino, pino@kth.se
Ane Hernandez, aneh1989@hotmail.com
Miguel Angel Orduo, miguel.angel.orduno@estudiant.upc.edu
Ceyran Bayramova, ceyran_001a@mail.ru

Keywords: sustainable clothing, sustainable fashion, upcycling, Catalonia, challenges,

barriers, consumers

ABSTRACT
Todays functioning globalized world is put additional environmental pressure on natural
systems. The fashion industry is not an exception, especially through the phenomenon
widely known as fast fashion, where high-speed and low-cost clothing production incites
high-speed consumption and hence, more waste. In such state of affairs, the need for a
public discussion on sustainable clothing practices is growing. Although large-scale retailers
have started partial initiatives to raise awareness among consumers or promote the
purchase of recycled garments, it is small and local fashion projects that are starting based
completely on sustainable clothing some of the applying new business models. The present
study aims at analysing the conditions for developing sustainable clothing initiatives in
Catalonia, where a number of such small projects have already been launched. It also has
the purpose of defining what are the major challenges to this market segment and its actors.
The study was performed through literature review followed by discussions among the
authors. According to the finding, Catalonia provides favourable conditions for developing a
sustainable clothing market, although small-scale retailers still face the competition of big
companies. The fashion industry faces a number of challenges along its value chain. It also
needs to tackle the problem of clothing and textile disposal, where materials upcycling could
be an appropriate solution if technology in the field is further improved. Sustainable clothing
also faces some of its greatest challenges in existing consumption and maintenance patterns.
There are certain conditions that prevent this niche segment to expand, insufficient demand
and lack of the advantages of the economies of scale being among the main ones. The study
showed that the local sustainable fashion market is facing global challenges, but has a
potential for development. In order to strengthen their position in public, local sustainable
businesses may unite in an association that represents and promotes their activities. Further
study of the local market and consumer behaviour toward sustainable clothing would also
serve as a good basis for adopting a future strategy to develop the segment.

Table of Contents
1.

Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 1
1.1.

Aims and objectives ................................................................................................................. 1

2.

Method ............................................................................................................................................ 2

3.

Results ............................................................................................................................................. 2
3.1.

Sustainability in the fashion industry ...................................................................................... 2

3.2.

Framework definition for sustainable fashion in Catalonia .................................................... 3

3.3.

Challenges and barriers ........................................................................................................... 4

3.3.1.

Challenges along the value chain .................................................................................... 4

3.3.2.

Upcycling a possible solution to fashion waste and its challenges .............................. 5

3.3.3.

Challenges in consumer behaviour ................................................................................. 6

3.3.4.

Barriers to the expansion of niche sustainable clothing initiatives................................. 7

4.

Discussion ........................................................................................................................................ 8

5.

Conclusion ..................................................................................................................................... 10

REFERENCES .......................................................................................................................................... 11

1. Introduction
Clothing production takes place in several stages. It starts with fibre production
followed by processes such as yarn spinning, knitting or weaving, dyeing or other processes
and then, the time for actual garment manufacturing comes (Laitala, 2012). This does not
include farming practices where raw materials such as cotton or wool for the fashion
industry are generated. In todays globalized world many of these processes take place in
different parts of the world and putting a piece of clothing into market involves
transportation at large distances.
However, clothings environmental impact does not end at the production phase.
Most life-cycle assessment (LCA) studies show that usage and maintenance are even more
energy-demanding (Laitala, 2012). According to estimations provided by H&M (2013), 36%
of the climate impact of a cotton T-shirt occurs when it is washed and tumble-dried.
On top of extensive impact during the use phase of clothing, another issue that poses
a problem is the disposal of textiles. According to data by the U.S. Environmental Protection
Agency (2014) in 2012 an estimated 14.3 million tons of textiles were generated which
equals to 5.7 percent of the generated municipal solid waste. The average recovery rate for
export or reprocessing that year was 15.7% which did not include reuse.
The above concerns are additionally aggravated by the phenomenon of fast fashion
which is characterized by high-speed and low-cost production of fashion products followed
by intensive consumption and accelerated disposal rates. It has increased the industrys
environmental impact, on the one hand, but has also been the reason for the social
conditions of workers. The latter has been tragically brought to the global agenda after a
fabric factory collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladeshs capital city, killing 1,129 people in April 2013
(OConnor, 2014).
In view of all the above, a discussion on sustainable clothing is ever more imminent.
Big fashion retailers have started different initiatives to promote sustainability in fashion and
try to reduce their own impact. In parallel, new, small-scale sustainable clothing initiatives
start locally all over the globe. As shown below, Catalonia is no exception from this trend.

1.1.

Aims and objectives

The purpose of this study is to present a diagnosis of the situation for developing
local sustainable fashion initiatives in Catalonia. In order to achieve this aim the authors
have identified the framework conditions in the autonomous community and have
formulated a number of research questions:
What is sustainability in the fashion industry?
What are the main challenges that the industry is facing along the value chain?
What is upcycling and how it can be a solution for the industry? What are the
challenges to it?
What are the challenges related to consumer behaviour?
What are the challenges to sustainable fashion initiatives?
What are the barriers to the expansion of the niche sustainable clothing market?

2. Method
For the purpose of this report, the authors performed a literature review. Literature
on the subject of sustainable fashion from scientific, government, industry and media
sources was studied in order to acquire an understanding of and analyse the current
situation and trends that affect a local sustainable fashion case study in Catalonia. Then, the
literature review was complemented by group discussions held with the purpose of
processing and structuring the results of the research.

3. Results
In this section the authors present their main findings. The first part tries to delineate
what stands behind the concept of sustainable fashion. In the second part the authors
describe the framework for developing sustainable fashion in Catalonia, while the third
subsection focuses on different types of challenges and barriers to sustainable fashion.

3.1.

Sustainability in the fashion industry

The classic definition of sustainable development included in the so-called

Brundtland report read that it is such development which meets the needs of the present
without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs (World
Commission on Environment and Development, 1987). From then on this has turned into a
guiding principle to define sustainability in every area of human life and clothing and the
fashion industry make no exception.
In the past decades, the clothing industry has been working on technological
improvements and cost optimization to keep a low price for the final product and increase
production efficiency. Niinimki and Hassi (2011, p. 1876) argue that a radical new mindset
is needed among designers, manufacturers and consumers to come up with more
sustainable approaches to answer consumer needs and achieve sustainable improvements
in the relationship between production and consumption. The authors also point out that
concepts such as eco-materials, ethical production and eco-efficiency have gained popularity
in the textile industry in the past years. The trend of some designers applying the reuse and
redesign concepts for their products started in the early 2000s (Niinimki & Hassi, 2011, p.
1878).
From the cradle to the grave of its products, the clothing industry has to find
innovative models to reduce its environmental impact. The main challenges are overall CO2
emissions, water usage and waste. Although some garments are donated to charities or
passed to second-hand businesses, reports show that these are saturated (Gwozdz, Netter,
Bjartmarz & Reisch, 2013). Sustainable clothing production involves taking care to minimize
impact from fibre production to creating a new product. It should aim at using fabrics from
eco-friendly resources such as sustainable grown fibre crops or recycled materials.
Nowadays, sustainable consumption means buying less frequently, acquiring
sustainable products, reusing or upgrading. A conscious consumer is one that takes care of
how they discard of unused clothing trying to avoid disposal on landfills and provide it for
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reuse or recycle. What is more, sustainable fashion is socially responsible and takes care
that the workers that participate in its production have normal working conditions and
receive fair wages. All these usually result in a higher cost of sustainable clothing. (Gwozdz et
al., 2013)
However, the trend of promoting sustainable practices and green fashion has led to
what is known as green washing where certain retailers try to market their products as
green or sustainable without them necessarily covering the requirements for such
denomination. This has resulted in consumers scepticism in relation to certain offerings
communicated as environmentally and/or socially responsible. (Gwozdz et al., 2013)

3.2.

Framework definition for sustainable fashion in Catalonia

The textile sector in Catalonia has suffered a major setback with regard to jobs and
production structure; nonetheless, there are around 1,750 fashion companies and 103,915
professionals (including textile distribution) with a total contribution to GDP (industrial) of
4.5% and 1.49% including textile distribution. Figure 1 depicts the structure of the fashion
ecosystem in the autonomous community of Catalonia.
Commitment to sustainability-oriented innovation is still rare in the textile and
apparel industry, but there exist first case examples of highly eco-innovative companies. In
Catalonia, more and more artists are adding to responsible fashion and physical stores that
sell sustainable fashion are also growing, as well as green bloggers. There are several local
initiatives, but the most important ones are:
Slow Fashion Spain (http://www.slowfashionspain.com) - a platform born with the
objectives of offering high-quality training and consulting to companies in the sector,
spreading the concept of sustainable fashion and providing visibility and creating and
promoting professional trustworthy networks and teamwork;
Catalan Fashion & Textile Cluster (http://www.actm.cat) - a cluster with the mission
of making impulse to the businesses competitiveness in the textile and fashion
industry and offering valuable assets to the firms included in this sector, trough
individual and collective initiatives;
Clean Clothes campaign (http://www.ropalimpia.org/es) - an international
network of NGOs, trade unions and consumer organizations with the objective of
improving working conditions, empowering working people in the industry,
minimizing the impact of textile production on the environment and implementing a
gender analysis on its strategy;
Pam a Pam (http://www.pamapam.org) - a collaborative map of Barcelona showing
the points of responsible consumption and solidarity economy, an initiative to
transform the city from the shopping cart;
So Good So Cute (http://www.sogoodsocute.com) - a blog created with the aim of
showing that fashion, cosmetics and aesthetics do not need to be frivolous and
superficial worlds and that the social and environmental projects can be very chic.
The Government of Catalonia meanwhile is implementing some Strategies for the
Sustainable Development of Catalonia for 2026. This is the roadmap that fixed lines and key
strategic objectives to ensure the transition of Catalonia into a safe, eco-efficient and lowcarbon economy based on efficiency resource consumption and the minimization of impacts
on health and the environment in Catalonia and in the world. Local authorities complement
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the government with an outstanding proactive role in the development of Agenda 21 and in
the implementation of sustainable policies. Thanks to the experience acquired and to their
ability to influence the economic and social actors of the territory, local governments have
to become guarantors of sustainability to the country. (Generalitat de Catalunya, 2010)
According to European Unions estimations, each person generates from 2 to 7 kg of
textile waste a year. Specifically in Catalonia 80,000 tons are generated, of which only
between 10% and 20% is collected and recycled (11,000 tons). The strategic and legal
foundations of the international community, Europe, Spain and Catalonia propose the
following waste management hierarchy: prevention, reuse, separate collection, material
valuation (e.g. recycling), energy valuation and discharge of the non-recoverable fraction.
(Ayuntament de Barcelona, 2008)
Guarantee Distinction of Environmental Quality is a Catalan eco-label which
recognizes products and services that exceed certain environmental quality requirements
beyond those established by prescriptive regulations. They also follow European legislation
such as the Regulation on Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of
Chemicals (REACH) which regulates the issue of toxic substances and persistent organic
pollutants (COP).

Figure 1: Fashion Ecosystem Diagram of Catalonia

3.3.

Challenges and barriers

In this section the authors present their findings on different types of challenges and
barriers to the development of sustainable fashion in general and, hence, its suppliers. Apart
from the challenges of the suppliy chain materials upcycling, introducing and developing
sustainable fashion poses a number of other challenges to the fashion industry. Both new
and established manufacturers and retailers, large-scale or small-scale as well as
conventional and sustainable actors have to face those and look for solutions.
3.3.1. Challenges along the value chain

The Swedish fashion company Hennes & Mauritz AB identifies seven challenges along
their value chain by which impact of the industry can be reduced. Design is the first one as it
involves the choice and minimization of materials. Raw materials and their processing is the
second one, as it is implicates such issues as working conditions, chemical and water use.
These are also implications in what is defined as the third challenge fabric production. The
next one is manufacturing (garment production), as the company does not own
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manufacturing facilities, but works with 872 suppliers which makes it harder to monitor
workers wages, overtime or safely. The fifth challenge is transport, as fashion products are
moved globally. Sales is also among the list with the company having more than 23,100
stores which employ workers and represent about 70% of H&Ms direct energy use. The last
challenge for the environment they identify is the use of fashion products and the way
customers take care of them. About 36% of the carbon emissions in clothings life cycle
occur when they are being washed and tumble-dried. (H&M, 2014)
3.3.2. Upcycling a possible solution to fashion waste and its challenges

Products that are wasted can be recycled, but also upcycled and sometimes sold
again. Clothes as well as other waste streams can also be used as material for upcycling for
fashion purposes.
Upcycling means that a wasted product or material gets a new life with better
quality. For example PET used for soda bottles can be processed into new PET plastic that
can be used for any other product made out of PET (McDonough et al., 2010, p. 116).
Upcycling also may imply reduced environmental impact of the new product. If the new
product made of upcycled materials produces lower environmental impact than if made of
new materials, then the upcycling process is beneficial.
During the production of new clothes the selection of materials influences the ability
to upcycle the garment at the end of its life. If different types of materials are used they are
harder to separate. They will likely end up in a hybrid material with lower quality. In fact, this
process is called downcycling of materials.
When the price of new raw materials increases the margins decrease and it will
become economical to think about the recovery of used materials. An example can be found
in the oil industry. When the oil was cheap, offshore drilling was not economical. For the
recycling of sustainable materials the same will occur. When the raw materials become more
expensive, this will create an economic incentive to collect and reuse the materials that are
spread around the world. Some materials are not widely used and that is why they are not
collected out of the waste streams. (Lasaridi et al., 2011) Clothing does not suffer from the
fact that a low quantity is spread around the world. It must be more easy to collect all the
used clothes for recycling purposes. Before reusing the materials, reuses can also be
considered. If the clothes are reused in for example developing countries it is upcycling as
well. The clothes were of no value anymore and after reselling them they have an increased
value again.
The potential of a global reuse and upcycling chain should be investigated. Producers
should also include more information about the materials used to ease sorting the different
materials. Changing the current chain will automatically cause a shift in the materials used. If
the producers can use reused relatively cheap materials from old products, they will try to
optimise their recovery. This will lead to a closed cycle with sustainable materials, although
processing energy is needed.
A major problem is that the industry is not technically capable of reusing cotton
fibres out of old clothing. The technology is improving, but a lot of the fibres are used in
downcycled products such as sound insulation material. If the technology improves, making
new products of the quality standards consumers are used to will be possible. Cotton is
recyclable but, "it is difficult to recycle *+ from postconsumer products because of the
presence of dyes and other fibers" (Chen et al., 2006). Investing in technology to separate
5

and recover material from old clothing should be stimulated in order to prevent exhausting
natural sources and to decrease the amount of water and chemicals used to cultivate cotton.
In most cases, producers can play a major role in improving sustainability of the
clothing chain. For example, if manufacturers/retailers want to use a mixture of materials,
then, they have to collect the clothing they put on the market at the end of its life. They
know what materials are used and can reuse them easily. Some producers like Black&Decker
already do. In the clothing industry H&M, Puma and The North Face started such programs.
Unfortunately, some of them were discontinued.
3.3.3. Challenges in consumer behaviour

According to Allwood, aursen, ussell, Malvido de odr guez and Bocken (2008),
change in the clothing and textile sectors in view of environmental impacts depends on
consumer choice. Their study concludes that ideal consumers would prefer second-hand
purchases, leasing items and repairs to buying new garments. Their purchasing decisions
would be based on accurate information about the environmental impact of the clothing and
the social conditions of the workers involved in its production. Maintenance would entail
less washing, drying and ironing, followed adequate disposal that provides for second-hand
use or recycling. At the same time Allwood et al. (2008) argue that to make a difference that
behaviour requires collective actions.
However, there are certain barriers to introducing such behaviour, that Allwood et al.
(2008) point out for the UK. First, fashion is at accessible prices and consumers may not be
willing to pay extra for more sustainable items. Second, retailers business models rely on
volume of sales, so decrease of consumption would result in higher prices to maintain
profitability. Moreover, repair is labour intensive and expensive (p. 1243) and it is more
difficult to with fast fashion clothing which is of lower quality. Infrastructure for used clothes
collection is insufficient, and clothing recycling needs to be improved by introducing better
technologies. As odour is the main reason for washing clothes, a less intensive process with
the same effect could lead to a reduction in washing frequencies. (Allwood et al., 2008)
Gwozdz et al. (2013) illustrate another challenge related to consumer behaviour.
They performed a study among young Swedes (aged 16 to 30 years), which showed that
although they had a relatively high environmental and/or social concern, in general, this
does not translate in their purchasing patterns and on average they buy relatively few
environmental apparel items. The study also identified several barriers to sustainable
purchasing:
- Limited availability, accessibility and affordability of more sustainable options are
perceived as major barriers to consumption of more sustainable clothing.
- Lack of information on products is another barrier. Young consumers recognized
only two of the labels used in Swedens fashion context (mostly Bra Miljval and Nordic
Swan), but had just a slight idea what they meant. When shopping they only sometimes
consider those labels.
- There is moderate skepticism toward environmental product claims. (Gwozdz et al.,
2013)
The Danish Fashion Institute and BCR (2012) add some more barriers. They point out
a style barrier as sustainable garments are often considered unattractive and unfashionable.
The authors also emphasize on barriers related to the care for fashion products such as the
disincentive to repair, the lack of non-toxic alternative to dry-cleaning, the perception that
washing at higher temperatures and a larger amount of detergence means cleaner clothes,
6

and care instructions which users follow and can be modified as to include more sustainable
actions.
3.3.4. Barriers to the expansion of niche sustainable clothing initiatives

Sustainable fashion has the characteristics of a niche market. Demand is still small,
but interested consumers are willing to pay extra for environmentally and socially
responsible clothing. In general, a niche market has the following characteristics:
- It is a fraction of a market segment that has some peculiarities that distinguish it.
- It involves a small group of interested consumers, business and organizations.
- Consumers have specific and similar needs or desires which usually involve a certain
level of complexity. Therefore, this group is willing to pay "extra" to purchase the
product or service that meets their expectations.
- There is a willingness to meet their needs or desires: i.e., have a gut feeling for
purchasing a product or service that meets their expectations, and in the case of
companies or organizations have the "ability to make purchasing decisions
- There is the economic capacity: Each component of the niche market has sufficient
economic capacity that allows them to cover the necessary expenses for the
satisfactions of their need or desire.
- The complexity of the needs require specialized operations and capable suppliers to
meet customers expectations.
- There are very few or no suppliers.
- It has sufficient size to generate profits.
At the same time, in order for a marker to expand there are certain conditions that
are required. McGoldrick (2002) (as cited by Lopez & Fan, 2009) summarized the reasons
behind the internationalisation of the Spanish brand Zara and the main barriers (inhibitors)
to it (see Table 1).
Table 1. Motives behind and barriers to Zaras internationalisation
Push factors
- Saturation
- Low growth
opportunities
- Changes in
consumer behaviour

Barriers

Facilitators

- Administrative
- International status
barriers
- Learning process
- Geographic distance - Spreading cost and
- Low economic
risk
development
- Different
seasonality
- Cultural distance
- Lack of experience
- Risk perception
Source: McGoldrick (2002) (as cited by Lopez & Fan, 2009)

Pull factors
- Spain joined the EU
- Economies of scale
- Globalisation
- Abolition of
economic barriers
- Growth chances
- Cultural affinities
- Information
technologies

In a study performed for the UK market, several factors have been pointed out for
overcoming the above barriers to the expansion of the niche sustainable fashion market.
First, the authors emphasize on the need for consumer education to ensure that fact-based
information on the specific impacts of a product is available and understood. Another
possibility is developing initiatives with new business models where profit growth is
7

decoupled from increased material flow and consumers pay for services such as repairs,
novel coatings, other maintenance services, remanufacturing or fashion upgrades. The
sector could halve its material flow without economic loss if consumers pay a higher price
for a product that lasts twice as long. (University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing,
2006)

4. Discussion
The fashion industry and its clothing segment are facing numerous challenges to
achieving sustainability. Logistically, small local fashion initiatives have it easier to organize a
supply chain of sustainable products which aim at closing the loop of material and energy in
the process. However, they face the competition of large-scale fast fashion retailers who can
offer more competitive prices due to using cheap labour and industrialized methods to grow
fibre crops that increase productivity at the expense of more water and chemicals and are
more easily accessible in different locations.
What is more, sustainable clothing depends on the different actors along the
production chain from the farmer, through both the fabric and the clothing manufacturers
and the retailer. In order for the whole process to function sustainably all those actors have
to be on board and follow certain rules and principles. However, there is a risk of
subcontractors abuses. Also, when it comes to subcontracting the economies of scale may
function in favour of large companies and make them a preferred partner than small ones.
The current fashion industry operates under the model of economic growth where
growth is a result of constant throughput of materials and energy. However, it should work
on business models that aim at maximum decoupling to break the dependence of its growth
on natural capital. Clothes exchanges and clothes libraries are such alternative models.
Accessible services for clothing upgrades and repairs can also be an option. They can
promote such services as a fashion trend in order to stimulate it as consumer behaviour and
prolong the life of garments.
Responsible consumption is one of the most effective actions to protect the
environment and promote greater social equity. Our decisions when purchasing products or
services influence the production models. Responsible consumption means preferred
cleaner options, which ensure fair labour and social conditions, consume fewer resources,
generate less waste and protect our health. With their action, consumers can communicate
their preferences and commitment to the market.
The choice of clothing for a lot of people is subjected to current fashion trends.
People also tend to buy clothes just for a single occasion. Afterwards they end up in the
closet and are discarded in a few years for being out of fashion. In the meantime, people buy
something new. It will be hard to eliminate fashion trends, but longer clothes usage can be
promoted through different initiatives and retailer policies. For instance, brands can
introduce more limited editions clothing in order to provoke a sense of exclusivity among
their customers and an incentive to wear those pieces longer.
A need to change consumer behaviour is required in order to decelerate the clothing
industry. Peoples desire to follow ever-changing fashion trends have to be surpassed by a
strong awareness about the impact of their purchasing behaviour. This can be supported by
labelling and providing detailed information on the environmental and social impact of

clothing. This would gradually make consumers require higher standards and better quality
garments of higher durability.
Higher environmental and social standards would automatically result in higher
prices which may reduce consumption to certain extent. What is more, if retailers stress
more on quality than quantity, then they may produce clothing that is of higher quality and
is more durable.
Binding the durability of clothing with the materials and energy used for their
manufacturing and sale is a possibility. The current policy of some brands to offer discounts
to their customers for the return of old garments has potential, although it may still
stimulate consumption. But at least, this provides infrastructure to collect disposed clothing
items, which is one of the existing problems in the disposal phase of clothes life cycle. In this
case, the retailer has information about the fabrics and can control the disposal conditions
which may results at higher rates of recycling and upcycling. The second benefit is that the
consumer becomes aware of the mismatch between fashion and sustainability.
Another issue that has to be addressed when raising peoples awareness is the
energy intensity of the use and maintenance phase of every piece of clothing. Washing
clothes less frequently, avoiding tumble-drying and ironing to save energy and dry cleaning
to reduce the use of chemicals are important aspects of consumer behaviour that can
contribute greatly to sustainability in the clothing industry.
Governments can also play a role in changing both consumer and
manufacturer/retailer behaviour. Introducing additional taxation for non-sustainable
clothing or stimulating sustainable fashion through tax cuts is one approach that can offer a
variety of options. Introducing regulation that encourages sustainable sales and purchases
would also have a beneficial effect. Although clothes manufacturing often takes place
abroad, introducing regulations to promote reduction of the embedded impacts in products
that are sold on a local market can provide incentives to retailers and therefore suppliers to
provide environmentally and socially appropriate items.
Governments may also contribute to improve the infrastructure for and
communication of textile disposal. In Catalonia, the government may contribute to achieving
higher collection and recycling rates. Introducing education on consumerism is also a field
where government support can have a say. Such education would create conscious
consumers in the longer run. Governments can also contribute by promoting international
negotiations on sustainable fashion. Large industry associations can work for the same
purpose.
Another aspect to consider is that the increased emphasis on durability as a
component of fashion would support a move towards reduced material flow. The
development of future technology a crucial role to reduce the cost of recycling and upcycling
and make it more accessible and widely used. Technological research may also provide
alternatives to detergents to freshen clothes without washing.
Although the above discussion focuses on global problems and trends in the fashion
industry, it is equally relevant in the context of the local sustainable clothing market of
Catalonia. Until changes in the status quo of the fashion industry occur, this would remain
a niche market. However, the development of sustainability in clothing has to be addressed
holistically and all three main societal actors industry, consumers and governments have
to create a symbiosis to stimulate each other for contribution to sustainable fashion. Also,
establishing a local sustainable fashion association may be a good start for the industry to

have its say on the local market among the above three actor groups. A study of local
consumers attitudes and behaviour may also be a good basis for deciding on future actions.

5. Conclusion
The present study analysed the conditions to develop sustainable fashion in general
and locally in Catalonia, and identified the major challenges it faces. Some small-scale
projects have been already launched on the local market. Catalonia provides conditions for
starting sustainable clothing initiatives, but still has to improve the rate of waste textile and
clothing collection and recycling. For better sustainability performance the fashion industry
faces a number of challenges in different areas: along the value chain, in consumer
behaviour and in competition with conventional fashion models. However, by collaboration
between business actors, government and consumers a change in the industry may start
taking place. Retailers need a push that can come from governments through regulation and
tax-related stimuli and from consumers if the translate better their awareness in their
clothing purchasing and maintenance habits. Consumers need more information on
environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry and how this may affect them. In
order to come up with a strategy to develop sustainable clothing in Catalonia, a study of the
market and of consumer behaviour is needed. The authors also recommend that local
sustainable clothing businesses establish unite in an association to represent their collective
interest and work on communicating sustainable fashion to retailers and consumers on the
local market.

10

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