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Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine

COOK WITH BEER: HEARTY FAVES

THE POWER OF PALE ALE | FAVORITE WINTER RECIPES | WHAT TO DO WITH BAD BATCHES | WOMEN IN BEER

FOR THOSE WHO


MAKE AND DRINK
GREAT BEER

Magazine

The Power of

PALE
e Their
Brewers Shar
le Ales

Ale

Favorite Pa
IPA or Imperial Pale?
Creative Pale Ale Recipes
40+ Pale Ales Reviewed

Feb-Mar 2015 |

HOW TO:

BEERANDBREWING.COM

GET GREAT RESULTS


FROM BEER KITS

PLUS:
The Not-So-Secret
History of
Women in Beer
Over-the-Hill: Know
When Your Cellared
Beer Hits Its Peak
Beercation: Philly!

|
NA ZDRAV!

& MORE

row, row, carry


your boat
Our new Spring Seasonal, Portage Porter, takes the buoyant aromas
of roasted coffee, chocolate and almonds, and steers them toward a
silky-smooth mouthfeel rolling one sip into another.
Get a boat load. NewBelgium.com

THE ALL-NEW BOILERMAKER G2

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custom-molded grips for cooler handling, and much more. With
superior engineering, beauty, and performance, weve created the
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*Applies to 7.5, 10, 15, and 20 gallon pots.

BREWING INNOVATION

Check us out at blichmannengineering.com

| CONTENTS: FEB/MAR 2015 |


FEATURES

56

How Women Brewsters


Saved the World

In the first of a two-part series, Tara


Nurin explores the hidden-in-plain-sight
history of women and beer from prehistoric
times up through Prohibition.

62

Practical Parti-Gyle
Brewing

The Power of

PALE
page 73

68

Ale

62

Parti-gyle brewing is a staple of historical


brewing and is still vital for brewers such
as Londons Fullers Brewery. Homebrewer
and writer Joe Stange paid Fullers a visit to
learn how homebrewers can add parti-gyle
brewing to their arsenal (and why they
might want to).

68

Hopeless Homebrew
Solutions

Sometimes a batch of homebrew that you


crafted turns out to be a multi-gallon batch
of oops. What to do then? Emily Hutto offers
four creative solutions.

73

The Power of Pale Ale

Brewers push the limits of style as this


second-largest selling craft-beer style
grows and adapts to hop-friendly palates.

74 | Pales in Comparison: A Pale


Ale Style Guide
80 | The Full Spectrum of Pale Ale
Are pale ale differences a regional
thing or an old-school/new-school
thing? Four craft brewers share
their thoughts on todays pale ales.

83 | Beyond Bitter:
Defining Imperial Pale Ale
Imperial pale ale is a derivative
style, one that could easily be
defined less by what it is than what
it isnt. But in the liquid arts, as in
those visual, incredible beauty is to
be found in the negative spaces.

89 | Pale Ale Reviews


Our blind-tasting panel tastes
through the best commercially available American Pale Ales and English
Pale Ales in the United States.
BEERANDBREWING.COM

|3

| CONTENTS |
THE MASH

11 | Stats, Hot-Rod Your BeerMaking Kit, Ballast Points


Homework Series, Beer
Slanging, and Whalez, Bro

102

18 | Beer Gear Guide


TRAVEL

19 | Love Handles
20 | Beercation: Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
BREAKOUT BREWERS

28 | Kane Brewing Company


32 | Rockmill Brewery
36 | Dageraad Brewing

28

16

PICK SIX

40 | For Victory Brewing Cofounder

Bill Covaleski, choosing a dream


six-pack is like DJing: theres an
art to putting together the perfect
playlist. Here are the six tracks on
his current mix tape.

COOKING WITH BEER

44 | Winter Warmers
From Herb Marinated Goat Cheese
to an apple-brussels salad topped
with a tangy Beeranch Dressing
to an incredible rib-eye steak with
Blue CheeseBeer Butter and
crispy potato skins to tart Lemon-Beer Hand Pies, Chef Christopher Cina has put together a menu
that will keep you warm while the
weathers cold.
IN THE CELLAR

50 | Past Its Prime? Vintage Beer


Warning Signs

44
40

Patrick Dawson, the author of


Vintage Beer, covers seven points
to consider when youre evaluating
a vintage beer.
HOMEBREWING

79 | Pale Ale Recipes


102 | Ask the Experts: Belgian
Yeast Strains
106 | Gear Test: Digital Hydrometers
and Refractometers
MORE

108 | Glossary & Techniques


113 | CB&B Marketplace
116 | CB&B Retail Shop Directory
120 | Chill Plate
4|

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

50
Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine (print ISSN 2334-119X; online ISSN 2334-1203) is published bimonthly in February, April,
June, August, October, and December for $29.99 per year (six issues) by Unfiltered Media Group, LLC at 214 S. College Ave., #3,
Fort Collins, CO 80524; Phone 888.875.8707 x0; customerservice@beerandbrewing.com. Periodical postage paid at Fort Collins,
CO and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine, PO Box 681, Stow,
MA 01775. Customer Service: For subscription orders, call 888.875.8708 x0. For subscription orders and address changes contact Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine, PO Box 681, Stow, MA 01775, subscriptions@beerandbrewing.com. Foreign orders must be
paid in U.S. dollars plus postage. The print subscription rate for outside the United States and Canada is $39.99 U.S.

Welcome to the

Neighbrewhood!
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HOMEBREWER
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CRAFT BREWER
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IS YOUR ONE STOP SHOP!
www.atlanticbrewsupply.com
Atlantic Brew Supply is one of the largest homebrew
shops and commercial brewing equipment suppliers
on the East Coast. If youre starting to homebrew or are
ready to go professional as a craft brewer, were ready
to help! Our sister company, Raleigh Brewing Company,
uses all the same commercial brewing equipment,
ingredients, and supplies that we offer to you. Even
better, we offer the opportunity to enjoy a pint while you
browse our store!
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| RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE |

The Power of

PALE
Ale

Tag Team Pale Ale


Page 76

30-Minute Pale Ale


Page 79

City Boy American Pale Ale


Page 79

American Mate Pale Ale


Page 79

Rye Must You Label Me


Pale Ale
Page 85

BEYOND THE PALE:

Single Fin Belgian Blonde Ale


Page 30

No-Math Parti-Gyle Old Ale,


IPA, and ESB
Page 65

Tara Nurin is a nationally


published freelance
journalist and beer columnist and a Cicerone
Certified Beer Server.
She runs Beer for Babes,
New Jerseys original
beer appreciation group
for women, and serves
as publicity director for
the Pink Boots Society.
She leads tasting and
pairing workshops
through her company,
Ferment Your Event.

6|

Joe Stange is a freelance


journalist who coauthored, with Tim Webb,
the seventh edition of
Good Beer Guide Belgium.
He also is author of
Around Brussels in 80
Beers. A former Associated Press newsman, his
articles and photoshave
appeared in the New York
Times and many prominent beer publications.

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

As Executive Chef for the


Breckenridge-Wynkoop
dining concepts,
Christopher Cina
oversees and inspires the
menus, operations, and
culinary teams at all of
the restaurant groups
properties. In addition to
cooking, Christophers
talents are also evident
in his photography, where
his favorite subject is, of
course, food.

Emily Hutto is a
Colorado-born travel
writer with an affinity for
fermented beverages.
Shes the author of
Colorados Top Brewers
and a contributor at
many craft beer and
food-centric publications.
Find her ethnography at
emilyhutto.com.

Patrick Dawson is the


author of Vintage Beer, A
Tasters Guide to Brews
That Improve over Time,
a book that guides
the taster through the
apparent mysteries of
cellaring beer. When not
thinking or writing about
beer, he is sleeping.

Dave Carpenter is an
avid hombrewer and
freelance writer. His
writing has appeared in
Zymurgy, and he contributes regular Web-exclusive content on our website at beerandbrewing.
com. He also develops
curricula for our online
homebrewing classes at
learn.beerandbrewing
.com.

RECIPE PHOTO: MATT GRAVES; CONTRIBUTOR PHOTOS: COURTESY TARA NURIN; COURTESY JOE STANGE;
COURTESY CHRISTOPHER CINA; COURTESY EMILY HUTTO; COURTESY PATRICK DAWSON; JAMIE BOGNER

| CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE |

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| THE MASH |

COUNTRY
STATE
STREET

SUPER
NATURAL

FISHING

BREWMASTER
INDIAN CHIEF
DOG

PENINSULA

REGION
MOUNTAIN
LIFE
EVENT
BREWING
BOAT
PATRON
SAINT

FOUNDER
MARITIME
SPIRITUAL

PEOPLE
HISTORIC
REFERENCE

GEOGRAPHIC
FEATURE
PROPER
NAME

LOCATION

What's in a Name?

The craft-beer industry is known for having some unique and silly
names for beers, but have you ever wondered where the actual brewery
names come from? Not ones to leave a stone unturned, we categorized
the names of the top fifty craft-beer brands (based on the Brewers
Association Top 50 list for 2013) and plotted them below to find the
most popular themes. With the local nature of craft beer, it should come
as no surprise that location and geography feature prominently.
By Brian Devine

CITY

WATER

Abita Brewing Co.


Allagash Brewing Co.
Boston Beer Co.
Breckenridge Brewery
Brooklyn Brewery
Lagunitas Brewing Co.
New Glarus Brewing Co.
Stevens Point Brewery Co.
Lost Coast Brewery
North Coast Brewing Co, Inc.
Southern Tier Brewing Co.
New Belgium Brewing
Alaskan Brewing Co.
Summit Brewing Co.
Cold Spring Brewing Co.
Deschutes Brewery
Great Lakes Brewing Co.
SweetWater Brewing Co.
Long Trail Brewing Co.
Sierra Nevada Brewing
Uinta Brewing Co.
Ballast Point Brewing Co.
Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
Bells Brewery, Inc.
Firestone Walker Brewing Co.
Matt Brewing Co.
Gordon Biersch Brewing Co.
Odell Brewing Co
Founders Brewing Co.
Karl Strauss Brewing Co.
Left Hand Brewing Co.
Oskar Blues Brewery
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
Flying Dog Brewery
Victory Brewing Co.
Rogue Ales
21st Amendment Brewery
Sixpoint Brewery
CraftWorks Breweries
Anchor Brewing Co.
Shipyard Brewing Co.
Full Sail Brewing Co.
Blue Point Brewing Co.
Harpoon Brewery
Ninkasi Brewing Co.
Saint Arnold Brewing Co.
The Gambrinus Co.
Duvel Moorgat USA
Stone Brewing Co.

| 11

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| THE MASH |

ITS
NO SECRET that the roots of the
craft-brewing industry run deep into
the fertile soil of homebrewing. The
growth of the industry is largely dependent on talented and dedicated homebrewers honing their craft and carving
out their own turf in the craft-brewing
revolution.
One brewery is taking it a step further
by providing the actual recipes to their
beers by packaging them with the beers
themselves. The Homework Series
from San Diegos Ballast Point is a line
of beers designed to pay tribute to their
homebrewing roots. Weve always
been such an open book with our recipes since we started Home Brew
Mart in 1992 and the brewery
in 1996, says Colby Chandler,
Ballast Points vice president and
specialty brewer. Honoring
our homebrewing roots is part
of our vision statement, and
putting the recipe on the bottle
was something weve always
wanted to do.
In fact, the very first beer
released in the Homework
Series is a hoppy red ale
that Chandler designed as
Red Scent Ale in 1998.
One his favorites to share
with his fellow homebrewers, it was a natural
choice to be the flagship
for the series. The first
one was my wedding
beer, and I was a little
selfish in wanting to have
it again.
Three more beers
Belgian-Style Double
IPA, English-Style IPA,
and Pumpkin Alehave
joined that Hoppy Red Ale
in the Homework Series.
Says Chandler, We
always wanted to package
a Belgian IPA but didnt
have the capacity to do it
on any kind of scale until
now. The English-style
IPA was the very first

12 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

IPA we ever brewed back when Peter


AHearn, our founding brewmaster,
was here. It was the first one we ever
brewed commercially, and we got to
bring it back and give out the recipe.
The pumpkin ale was a great collaboration between Home Brew Mart and
Brewing Manager Aaron Justus.
In addition to making commercially
available award-winning craft beer,
Ballast Point also operates Home Brew
Mart, a homebrew supply company in
the San Diego area and the place where
Ballast Point founders Jack White and
Yuseff Cherney teamed up to start
Ballast Point. Ballast Point has such a
huge variety of styles of beer, and
that desire for variety really goes
back to our homebrew roots, says
Chandler. Most of the pro brewers
here in San Diego started as homebrewers, and we love to be on
the front edge. We were doing a
session IPA eleven years ago and
an India Pale Lager nine years
ago. From the beginning weve
always liked being able to go
into the homebrew shop,
see new trends, taste ingredients, and get tactile.
That collaboration
connection between craft
brewery and homebrewers
deepens this year as Home
Brew Mart launches a
homebrew competition to
see what beer will be the
next in the Homework
series. Not only will the
winning beer join the
ranks of other outstanding
beers in the series, but it
will also be debuted at the
National Homebrew Conference, which takes place
in San Diego this June.
Ballast Points Homework
Series is available throughout the Southern California
region, and the recipes are
available online at ballastpoint.com/beer-recipes.
Steve Koenig

Language
for Beer
Geeks
A quick and humorous key to
deciphering the slang terms
thrown around in the world
of Beer Geekdom.

>> Tallboy

[tawl-boi] noun
Its 25 percent bigger! The Tallboy
can holds a sweet 16 ounces of barley
soda. Some breweries have taken it
a step further, such as Oskar Blues
with their 19.2-ounce Stovepipe and
Sixpoint with their 22-ounce SILO.
Crush that Heady Tallboy and then
solo that SILO of Resin, bro."

>> Crushable

[kruhsh-uh-bul] adjective
An easygoing, super-drinkable beer.
These are well-balanced beers with
low-to-medium alcohol by volume
(ABV) but tons of flavor that make
you want to go back for more again
and again. Example: Oh man, Founders All Day IPA is so crushable.

>> UBI

Acronym for unexplained beer


injury. The origin of this term is often
attributed to doctors in Britain, who
would encounter inebriated patients
in the emergency room unable to
explain how they sustained their
injuries. Example: I got nine stitches
from a UBI last night. And apparently
I also got married.

>> Session IPA

[sesh-un eye-pee-ay] noun


Synonym for pale ale. Boom!

>> Cuve

[koo-vey] noun & verb


While sometimes used to indicate
exceptional quality, cuve generally
means that the beer is a blend. While
blending beers pre-carbonation
has been a practice for centuries,
blending finished beers has seen a
boost in popularity of late (and is far
more complicated than the traditional black and tan in a Shaker pint).
Example: Austin cuved nineteen
versions of pumpkin ale, and it tasted
exactly the same.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF BALLAST POINT

Homework for
Homebrewers

BEERSLANGING

| THE MASH |

Whalez, Bro.

By Ansis Purins

Trending Online

Craft Beer & Brewings Web editors bring


you breaking craft-beer news and all-new
stories, tips-and-technique articles to help
you make your best beer, unique and tested
original beer recipes, revolutionary online
craft-beer and homebrewing education,
plus a free eNewsletter that will deliver
free tips, techniques, news, and special
offers. Heres what readers are following on
beerandbrewing.com:
Top Stories

7 Spicy Craft Beers to Try


Sriracha, the beloved and now iconic chili
sauce, has made its way into chips, hummus,
and even ice cream, so it was only a matter
of time before a brewery rolled out their
own tangy take. Oregons Rogue Ales, no
stranger to spicy beer with their Chipotle
Ale, announced that they will be releasing a
Sriracha Hot Stout. We highlight it and other
spicy beers from Ballast Point, Westbrook,
Burnside, Night Shift, and Twisted Pine.
Blood, Sweat, and Beer
A new film, Blood, Sweat, and Beer, follows
two start-up breweries in the first year of
their quest. Much like fellow craft-beer
documentarians of the film Crafting A Nation,
director and producer Alexis Irvin and
crew capture small business owners who
are revitalizing run-down areas of cities by
creating community gathering places.
Homebrewing Techniques

5 Way to Reuse Your Old Growler for


Homebrewing
If youre like us, then youve probably
assembled a small arsenal of growler jugs
over the years. Homebrewers are, however,
a resourceful lot, always searching for ways
to reuse old stuff. Check out five uses for
your old growler.
Top Recipes

Winter Warmer Recipe


With its malty character, this recipe is perfect for cold days with extract, partial mash,
and all-grain recipes. Free on the website.

14 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Imported by Latis LLC, Ridgefield, CT Rodenbach 2014 Latis, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

THE ORIGINAL SOUR.


Over the past two centuries, RODENBACH has earned its official status
as a Belgian National Treasure and one of the most awarded beers globally.
Michael Jackson referred to RODENBACH as a World Classic. With an active
yeast strain that is almost 200 years old, unique living micro-flora working
in the 294 oak foeders and local Poperingse hops, RODENBACH is the
original sour ale, imitated but never duplicated. Rudi Ghequire, brew master
for over 30 years, fondly describes his complex brew as tart and fruity with
extraordinary balance. Youll know when youre ready to enjoy RODENBACH.

CHARACTER

IPENS WITH AGE

| THE MASH |

Hot-Rod Your
Beer-Making Kit!
Size doesn't matter, but the difference between homebrew magic and
homebrew disappointment comes down to quality ingredients and smart
technique. Try these tips (and our specially designed recipe on the opposite
page) to get great results from your kit. By Dave Carpenter
AS THE WINTER HOLIDAYS shrink
to tiny dots in the rearview mirror, the
excitement and sensory overload that
accompanied the stretch from Thanksgiving to New Years Day now give way to a
new reality: Its an awfully long time until
Memorial Day. Getting through the next
few months is going to take patience, perseverance, and a healthy dose of craft beer.
If you received a department store
brewery-in-a-box starter kit (e.g., Mr.
Beer, Coopers DIY, or the Beer Machine)
as a gift over the holidays and brewed your
first batch before saying good-bye to 2014,
then you may have already sampled your
initial foray into homebrewing. If not, you
will very soon.
While these off-the-shelf kits are certainly
easy to use and a good way to get into homebrewing, the resulting beer doesnt always
meet the expectations of todays discerning
craft-beer enthusiast. If after a couple of
weeks of waiting, youve opened your first
bottle, taken your first sip, and wondered
why it tastes so, well, amateur, trust us:
Youre not the first to be underwhelmed.
But dont panic and dont give up! Great
beer is more about quality ingredients
than it is about the equipment you use.
Sure, certain equipment upgrades can
make your brew day more efficient and
let you make beer in greater volumes, but
you can brew excellent beer using these
mass-market kits. In fact, the inherent
simplicity of such kits makes them a great
choice for would-be homebrewers who
dont have a lot of extra space and arent
ready to transform the spare bedroom
into a science lab. The 2.1-gallon (8-liter)
Mr. Beer fermentation vessel, for example,
offers several advantages:
The units small size is ideal for apartment
dwellers and others with space constraints.
The wide mouth makes cleaning,

16 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

sanitizing, dry hopping, and adding


fruit a breeze.
The fermentors unique geometry
features sloping sides and a flat base to
effectively collect trub, hops matter, and
other sediment.
The integrated spigot obviates the need
to rack and makes bottling a piece of
cake (attach a foot-long piece of sanitized tubing to the spigot to cut down
on splashing when you bottle).
So why dont these equipment kits enjoy a
better reputation among seasoned homebrewers? I think it comes down to two
things: snobbery and bad first experiences.
Only a good dose of humility can chip
away at the first of these (and even then,
not always), but the second is easily remedied with a simple shift in perspective and
process. With quality ingredients, these
kits can turn out excellent beer with just a
few minutes more of your time.

Drink Fresh
Picture the freshest, most delectable bread
youve ever tasted. Imagine the dense chewy
crust that gives way to a tender interior.
Think of the yeasty, slightly tangy aroma
and layers of nuanced flavor. Im willing to
bet that this loaf didnt come from a storebought bread-machine mix. Yes, decent,
perfectly edible bread can be made using a
bread mix and a countertop machine. But
much better bread requires quality flour,
pure water, healthy yeast, a bit of salt, and
some of your own precious time.
The same is true with beer. You might
be able to make passable beer using
canned-ingredient kits, but the number
one way to improve your beer is to brew
from fresh malt, hops, water, and yeast. If
youre ready to put your kit to the test and
see what it can do, try our kit-scale pale ale
recipe on the oppposite page.

Bigger Isnt
Always Better
Even after you master the smallbatch brewery and move on to larger volumes, there are some good
reasons to hold onto your original
equipment kit:

Small-batch brewing: Maybe

there are times when you neither


want nor need five gallons of
homebrew. Brewing in small
amounts might simply be more
convenient for your lifestyle.
Lager and high-gravity brewing:
Achieving the optimal pitch rate
for lagers and high-gravity beers
can be quite a challenge when
you need to inoculate five gallons
or more. But when you work with
small volumes, its much easier to
pitch enough yeast for the job.
Split batches and experimental
brewing: Splitting a 5-gallon
batch into two or more smaller
batches offers you an opportunity to play with different yeast
strains, experiment with fruit
additions, and more.
Expanding your horizons:
Sure, youre a great homebrewer,
but have you ever tried your
hand at mead, cider, wine, or
sake? Small-equipment kits offer
the perfect venue to try before
you buy, so to speak.

Make It

Hackers Delight
Pale Ale
EXTRACT
This recipe makes 2 gallons (7.5 liters) of beer,
suitable for fermentation in a 2.1-gallon (8-liter) Mr. Beer kit. The ingredients are readily
available from your local homebrew supply
store or from Internet-based retailers. Weve
specifically chosen the hops quantities so
that you can purchase in 1-ounce increments
without leftovers, and the quantity of liquid
malt extract corresponds to small quart-sized
jugs of extract. Just rememberbuy fresh!
BATCH SIZE: 2 gallons (7.5 liters)

OG: 1.057
FG: 1.014
IBUs: 40
ABV: 5.6%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

3.15 lb (1.43 kg) pale liquid malt extract


4 oz (113 g) Caramel 40, crushed
HOP SCHEDULE

0.50 oz (14 g) Citra at 20 minutes


0.50 oz (14 g) Citra at 2 minutes
0.50 oz (14 g) Cascade at flameout
0.50 oz (14 g) Centennial at flameout
0.50 oz (14 g) Cascade at dry hop (7 days)
0.50 oz (14 g) Centennial at dry hop (7
days)
DIRECTIONS

Place 1 quart (1 liter) of cold water in a


3-gallon (10-liter) or larger stockpot, place
crushed Caramel 40 malt in a mesh bag,
and place the mesh bag in the cold water.
Heat the stockpot over medium heat until
the temperature of the water and grain
reaches 155F (68C). Remove the grain,
add the malt extract, top up with 2 gallons
(7.5 liters) of water, and bring to a boil.
Boil for 20 minutes, following the hops
schedule. Chill the wort to 66F (19C)
and transfer to the fermentor. Top up to 2
gallons (7.5 liters) total if needed and add
the yeast. Ferment 10 days at 66F (19C),
then add dry hops. Bottle after 7 days of
dry hopping.
YEAST

PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

1 package White Labs WLP001 California


Ale, or
1 package Wyeast 1056 American Ale, or
package Safale US-05

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 17

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your temperature control covered. Solid metal construction
and straightforward analog
switches offer the perfect mix
of precise control and easeof-use. winestat.com

18 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

| LOVE HANDLES |

Bittercreek
Alehouse
Boise, Idaho

Moeder
Lambic
Brussels, Belgium

An old-school beer bar with the best of A super cellar in low-key Boise
Maines beer scene on tap

Confident curators of taste


in the capital of Beer Paradise

WHAT IT IS: The Great Lost Bear has


been slinging beer since 1979, earning its
reputation as a Portland institution and a
haven for craft beer. Of the seventy-eight
taps, most are pouring New England
beers, and the highlights are from
Maines great brewersfrom classics
such as a Gritty McDuffs Black Fly Stout
or an Allagash Curieux to the latest hoppy
offering from the buzzed-about Bissell
Brothers Brewing. The food menu is
equally extensive and delicious; paper
ephemera and old photographs hang
throughout the spacious bar and dining
room; and theres almost always a pint
deal or special event going on any night
of the week.
WHY ITS GREAT: A trip to the Bear
feels like seeing an old good friend
with whom you havent talked in years;
you can pick up right where you left off
without missing a beat, and first-timers
and thirsty travelers will feel at home in
no time. Its entirely unpretentious, but
they take their beer seriously, and with
their extensive and constantly rotating
selection, its the best spot in town to try
a beer from a new brewery, make an unexpected discovery, or indulge in a hearty
plate of nachos, a few rounds of Oxbow
Farmhouse Pale Ale, and get pulled into
conversation with the friendly, devoted
locals. Heather Vandenengel

WHAT IT IS: Brussels has an array of


great cafs, but sometimes beer geeks
pass through town, between trains, and
have time for only one. Moeder Lambic is
the one they choose. They arrive to find
an ample terrace beneath a wrought-iron
Art Deco awning. Inside is a long, modern space with simple wooden booths
and a bar with forty shiny taps whose
offerings are scrawled overhead in chalk.
Behind the bar are an additional six cask
hand-pulls, most dedicated to pumping
authentic lambics; sparklers on the fonts
add froth for presentation. Bottled beers
are virtually all 75cl, carefully chosen,
and meant for cellaring and eventually
sharing.

Details

Hours: 11:30 a.m.11:30 p.m. MondaySaturday,


Noon11 p.m. Sunday
Address: 540 Forest Ave., Portland, ME
Web: greatlostbear.com

WHAT IT IS: Boise probably isnt the first


place you think of when it comes to western U.S. beer cities, but this gastropub
is making a convincing argument that it
deserves consideration. With thirty-nine
options on draft, a completely stacked cellar,
and a thoughtful menu that includes the
likes of duck confit poutine and ksesptzle,
Bittercreek Alehouse checks all the boxes
and then some.
WHY ITS GREAT: One look at the
expertly chosen draft and cellar lists at
Bittercreek makes it obvious that Proprietor Dave Krick knows beer. In fact,
most beer geeks will spend the majority
of their time with their noses buried in
the page-turner of a beer menu. While
the draft list includes the one-two punch
of Pacific Northwest and Rocky Mountain
options (with the likes of Double Mountain and Odell barrel-aged obscurities), it
also has a good representation of carefully
selected offerings from the growing local
brewing scene. But its the cellar list thats
the real draw. Not only is it super deep,
but the laid back nature of the Boise
crowd has allowed bottles such as 2010
Drie Fonteinen Gueze and various Batch
#1 bottles from Anchorage Brewing Co. to
still grace the pagesand at a fraction of
the cost youd expect. Patrick Dawson
Details

Hours: 11:00 a.m.1:00 a.m. MondayThursday,


11:00 a.m.2:00 a.m. Friday, 8:30 a.m.2:00 a.m.
SaturdaySunday
Address: 246 N 8th St., Boise, ID
Web: bcrfl.com/bittercreek/

WHY ITS GREAT: The staff knows its


stuff and receives frequent training in
the art of gentle education. Regular beers
emphasize smaller Belgian breweries
that make consistently characterful beers;
local stars Cantillon and Senne get pride
of place. Guest taps show the same choosiness but widen the map to feature Italy,
Spain, Germany, and beyond. (U.S. beers
are rare here because the staff cant vouch
for their freshness after the boat ride.)
They are picky so that customers need
not be. It is theoretically possible to order
a bad beer here, but its difficult. It is even
more difficult to leaveeven when theres
a train to catch. Joe Stange
Details

Hours: 11 a.m.2 a.m. Friday & Saturday, 11


a.m.1 a.m. SundayThursday
Address: Place Fontainas 8, Brussels, Belgium
Web: moederlambic.com
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 19

PHOTOS FROM LEFT: HEATHER VANDENENGEL, BITTERCREEK ALEHOUSE, JOE STANGE

The Great
Lost
Bear
Portland, Maine

| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |
Opposite, top The
tap list at Khyber Pass Pub
can be intimidating, but
bartenders are happy to help.
Opposite, bottom
A wall of windows separates
Yardss popular tasting room
from the brewhouse.

Philly:
Beer Done with Intensity
(and a Wry Sense of Fun)
PHILLY METRO

20 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

HOMEBREW
SHOPS
GABF GOLD
MEDALS

74
18
54

BREWERIES
& BREWPUBS

BY THE NUMBERS

BREWING PIONEERS SUCH AS Carol


Stoudt of Stoudts, Rosemarie Certo of
Dock Street, and Tom Kehoe of Yards
Brewing still help set the pace for the Philadelphia region, which continues to set standards with its breweries, bars, and Belgian
connections. As with everything, including
their sports teams, Philadelphians do beer
with intensity. Unlike with their sports
teams, with their beer, they also add a wry
sense of fun. You can walk into almost any
bar on almost any corner and find at least
one local knob and a Citywide Speciala
shot of whiskey and a PBR chaser.
Almost every section of Philly has a
little brewery now, and there are so many
more in planning, marvels Kehoe. Because its so hard to wrap your lips around
the breadth of beer in this region, its
practical to concentrate on a few walkable
neighborhoods.

Northern Liberties
and Fishtown
Said to be the bar that birthed the term
gastropub, Standard Tap is dog friendly
and beloved for its rooftop brunch and

burgers. The Taps local-beer-only policy


first brought awareness to the native
brewery scene and anchored the revival of
Northern Liberties (NoLibs).
From day one we wanted this to be the
neighborhoods unofficial town hall, the
neighborhoods living room, says William
Reed, who launched Standard Tap in 1999.
Jerrys Bar brings modern meaning to
the gastropub label. Selections such as
Bean Dream from Pizza Boy Brewing
(Enola, Pennsylvania), Invasion from
Cigar City (Tampa, Florida), and Sidra
De Nava from Virtue Cider (Fennville,
Michigan) line up next to an expert cocktail list and house-smoked meats to earn
it the designation best new gastropub of
the year from the citys most respected
restaurant critic.
In Fishtown, entrepreneurs are adding
bars seemingly by the month to the streets
that once housed little more than Reeds
intentionally grungy music venue, Johnny
Brendas. JBs still pounds out the tunes
along with Reeds signature locals-only
beer program, but now its surrounded by
other places of note. Barcade patrons play

PHOTOS: DANYA HENNINGER

As an epicenter for nineteenth-century brewing, Philadelphia seized hard


on this centurys beer resurgence long before most East Coast cities
had even caught a hops-scented whiff. By Tara Nurin

| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |

Clockwise from top


left Sip from classic liter
mugs at picnic tables in
Frankford Halls gravelcovered beer garden;
Standard Tap is a gathering
place for the Northern
Liberties neighborhood; find
an all-local, all-draft, all-day
beer party at Johnny Brendas
in Fishtown.

22 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

1980s arcade games while they do battle


with Victorys Golden Monkey and Trogs
Trogenator, while drinkers at the Frankford Hall Biergarten drink enough Bells
(Kalamazoo, Michigan) Two Hearted
along with German specialtiesto earn it
recognition as a top Bells account.
Yards Brewing Company lies between
Fishtown and the SugarHouse Casino.
Try a flagship Philadelphia Pale Ale or the
Ales of the Revolution series, modeled
after recipes written by former Philly
dwellers Benjamin Franklin, George
Washington, and Thomas Jefferson.
While in NoLibs and Fishtown, stock up
on bottles at The Foodery and Bottle Bar
East. No thanks to Pennsylvanias case
law, its tough to find stores where you can
buy by the single.

For a taste of the old guard, eat brunch


at the landmark South Philly Tap Room,
then stop in at Pub on Passyunk East (one
the nations best La ChouffeBrasserie
dAchouffe (Belgium)accounts) before
strolling for beers on East Passyunk
Avenue. You cant go wrong eating at any
of the acclaimed restaurants, but to plan
your meal around beer, have a $5 burger
followed by a Carton of Milk Stout (Carton
Brewing, Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey)
at the unassuming Franklin Porter or a
small-batch domestic at Stateside.
Bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB) restaurants line the avenue, so prepare yourself
with a bottle run to BrewA Beer Boutique, which houses Ultimo Coffee, rated
the countrys best coffee shop by TheDailyMeal.com. Or skip the coffee and the
hassle by staking out the stationary food
truck at Garage, where a rotating cadre
of guest chefs serve dishes to can-sipping
swillers in a converted auto repair shop.
Off the avenue, gather with drinkers
who worship craft beer and the servers
who sell it to them at Devils Den and The
Industry, respectively. Its fireplace and
homey atmosphere notwithstanding, Devils Dens sour events and regular limited
releases bring hard-core beer nerds in to
worship at the temple of beer-bar-owning
diva Erin Wallace. Drinking here saves
you a trip to the suburbs if you want to
taste Wallaces GABF-winning ales brewed
at her new Barren Hill Tavern & Brewery.
If you work in a restaurant or bar, bring
your paystub to receive 20 percent off your
bill at The Industry, a restaurant designed
as an in-the-biz hangout where bottles of
Russian River (Santa Rosa, California) and
Brooklyn Brewery (Brooklyn, New York)
Cuve Noir are de rigueur.

PHOTO: DANYA HENNINGER

South Philly

| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |

In addition to pours from the


namesake taps, Alla Spina
offers a selection of local and
Italian craft bottles served in
Rastal Teku glassware.

But Wait,
Theres More
Notable Breweries Elsewhere in
the City
Locals rate Philadelphia Brewing,
located in a restored nineteenth-century Kensington brewhouse, as their
favorite place to hang out following
a brewery tour. Its never the same
beer twice at Mt. Airys Earth Bread
+ Brewery, known for its flatbreads,
dizzying succession of beer recipes,
and owners who founded New
Jerseys much-missed Heavyweight
Brewing in the 1990s. In Manayunk,
try Manayunk Brewerys Schuylkill
Punch mixed berry ale while relaxing
on the waterfront deck.

Notable Bars Elsewhere in the City


If theres one place to find a particular German beer, its at Brauhaus
Schmitz, on South Street, where
dirndl-clad lasses serve steins to
fans cheering on favorite teams in
televised soccer matches. In the
northeast, practically no week passes
without Grey Lodge Pub owner Mike
Scotese inventing some goofy holiday
that gives him an excuse to don a
costume and bring up good stuff from
the cellar. And in the Loft District and
Point Breeze, Prohibition Taproom
and American Sardine Bar are considered among the most legit.
Notable Bars in the Burbs
Well keep it basic and old school here.
The five most influential suburban
craft-beer bars are Teresas Caf
(Wayne), Iron Abbey (Horsham), Capones Restaurant, Bar, and Bottle
Shop (Norristown), Hulmeville Inn
(Hulmeville), and Isaac Newtons
(Newtown).

24 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Greater Center City


Monks Caf, once described by a national
beer glossy as one of the top five places to
drink a beer before you die, is why Philadelphia is a test market for Belgian beers,
why Philadelphia consumes more Belgian
beer than any city outside Brussels, and
why four pairs of Philadelphians have won
contests to brew at De Proefbrouwerij,
Brasserie Dupont, Brasserie de la Senne,
and Brouwerij Dilewyns. A member of the
Belgian Knighthood of the Brewers Mash,
Tom Peters masterminded Monks, and
he hires educated and patient bartenders
to help patrons decipher the names of
300 lofty brews, bound together in a thick
leather menu. Try the mussels and a beer
you cant pronounce.
Its insane what you can get now, says
Peters, who opened the cozy but crowded
Monks eighteen years ago, of Phillys selections. Its an embarrassment of riches.
Near Monks are two more early adopters. Good Dog Bars burger has been rated
one of the best in the United States, and
you can usually find off-duty bartenders
from other beer bars there nursing a
Founders or a Firestone Walker. Jose

Pistolas always has some of the hardestto-find beers on tap to pair with cheap
Mexican eats.
Rittenhouse Square, sparkling with
luxury shopping, restaurants, and wine/
cocktail bars, houses two prime beer spots.
Tria Taproom builds on the impeccable
reputation of its sister wine-and-cheese
cafs to present an all-draft list of beer,
wine, cider, and soda; and The Dandelion
pours celebrity restaurateur Stephen Starrs
acumen for ambiance and taste into an
upscale British pub that serves three cask
ales and small-batch British beers by the
flight, half-pint, or Imperial pint.
Slightly farther afield are Strangeloves,
with its deeply beer-reverent owners and
polished caf and bottle shop vibe; Varga
Bar, whose ceiling beams down painted
images of vintage pin-up girls that are
only slightly more eye-catching than
the Russian Riverheavy bottle list; and
funky-sophisticated Alla Spina, where you
can spend the night eating pig tails and
washing them down with beer cocktails
and milkshakes and eight-year-old bottles
of Nora and Al-Iksir from Birreria le Baladin (Piozzo, Italy).
DANYA HENNINGER

Notable Breweries in the Burbs


Locals clamor to visit newcomers
Tired Hands, Neshaminy Creek,
and Springhouse, adorable Forest
and Main, and Free Wills new-andimproved tasting room and extensive
sour program. The GABF-winning
Iron Hill brewpub chain constantly
adds new locations. Two of the most
popular lie at the end of a short ride
into New Jersey, close to Flying Fish,
maker of the famed Exit Series. To the
west, Victory is opening a huge new
production brewery and brewpub
that can be visited (by reservation)
on a bus trip that includes lunch and
a tour of the existing brewhouse.
German traditions continue far into
the countryside at the mainstays of
Trogs and Stoudts, and Belgian
brewing reigns at Weyerbacher.

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| 25

| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |

Opened recently, 2nd Story Brewing


takes over a spacious post-industrial space
to brew European and American styles.
Desserts are decadent, especially the
Colonial Porter Banana Cake and The Big
and Boozey Adult Sundae, both of which
feature ice cream made with the house
stout at the historic Franklin Fountain
around the corner.

Top Trogss tasting room


features longtime classics
plus experimental brews you
wont find anywhere else.
Above House-brewed
beers are designed to
complement the food at 2nd
Story Brewing.

26 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Old City
Beer lovers should make a pilgrimage to
Eulogy Belgian Tavern, which crams thirty
taps and 400 bottles into the narrow rowhouse where jewelers founded Bailey, Banks
& Biddle in 1832. Slurp mussels and try a
sour Haandbakk from Haandbryggeriet
(Drammen, Norway) or a cheese-and-chocolate-loving Chocarrubbica oatmeal stout
from Grado Plato (Chieri, Italy).
Khyber Pass Pub has been a dive bar
since before dive bars were cool. It was
also a beer bar before most people had
heard the term. Special events bring
knockouts such as Cantillon Iris Grand
Cru (Anderlecht, Belgium) and Loverbeer
Madamin (Marentino, Italy).

West Phillys City Tap House boasts the


most taps in the city (sixty), and you could
cheerfully drink whats pouring from any
one of them. If theres Russian River to be
found on tap in the city, you can usually
find it at Local 44. The bottle shop next
dooralso owned by Local 44s owners,
who run Strangeloves and the evercherished Memphis Taproom in the Kensington neighborhoodoffers a quieter
place to drink from a few taps or bottles.
Be sure to fill your bank account before
you comethe selection is tightly edited
to reflect only the most covetable (read:
expensive) bottles.
In a historic firehouse, Rosemarie
Certo decided to reopen Dock Street as a
flatbread-focused brewpub after contract brewing the beer she created as the
citys first microbrew in 1985. If youre
luckyor unluckyyou may stumble
into a hidden stash of the infamous Walker, a pale American stout brewed with
goat brains in honor of The Walking Dead
TV series.
Graduate Hospital (G-Ho) lies on the
fringes but supports enough beer bars to
make it worth a trip. Philadelphians consistently vote Pub & Kitchen as the best bar
in the city; The Sidecar Bar & Grille and
Grace Tavern have carried the mantle for
years; and a team comprised of a veteran
bartender and chef has launched Devils
Pocket Food & Spirits with twelve taps.
Beer in this town is like a pebble, says Peters. You throw it in the water and it keeps
generating more and more around it.

PHOTOS: DANYA HENNINGER

West Philly and Graduate


Hospital

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 27

| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Garden
Statesman
WHEN MICHAEL KANE LAUNCHED
Kane Brewing Company (Ocean, New Jersey) in 2011, he brought more than fifteen
years of homebrewing experience, national and international travel, and business
savvy to the brewhouse. Appropriately
named, Kane Brewing is an embodiment
of Kane himself with a sense of place
specific to his hometown.
I didnt leave my day job to start the
brewery until I was thirty-five, says Kane.
The beauty of what I wanted to do is a
long-term approach, to open a brewery and
do my own thing with no partners or investors. Ive spent a lot of time focused on
being able to do this on my own, and I have
a clear vision to bring craft beer to New
Jersey. I dont say that without the knowledge of great breweries in the area, Kane
continues, But more to bring awareness to
what is not exactly a craft-beer state.
Kane, who grew up in New Jersey, says
that the state has an educated consumer
base for craft beer without a lot of craftbeer production. It wasnt [about] getting
consumers on board, he says in reference
to the European-beer-style-loving East
Coast beer drinkers. It was getting retailers and wholesalers to realize there was a
market for this kind of product. So Kane
decided he would use his two favorite beer
categoriesWest Coaststyle ales and Bel-

28 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

gian-style beersas a platform to bring


local craft beer to New Jersey.
Kanes West Coast focus was inspired by
traveling, when he was blown away by the
differences between East and West Coast
IPAs. Compared to English styles [in the
East], I was blown away by the really dry,
hoppy, aromatic IPAs [in the West]. It was
a whole new world.
West Coaststyle IPAs have scaled-back
malt profiles and are focused on bright
flavors and aromatic profiles, says Kane.
Thats our philosophy with hoppy beers:
a lot of pilsner malt, a tiny bit of crystal,
and the rest is just the hops.
The Kane IPAs, including the Head High
American IPA and the Overhead imperial
IPA, have the slightest clean bitterness
that hits you in the beginning, says Kane.
They use neutral yeasts to maintain the
focus on the flavor of the hops and are
usually dry hopped for big hops aroma.
We brew what we like, Kane reminds
me when he describes the other beer
style for the brewery. A lot like his IPAs,
his Belgian-style Single Fin Belgian-style
blonde ale is clean, bright, and crisp. This
year-round offering from the brewery is
one that beer geeks love, Kane says. We
modeled it after a Belgian singlesuper
low alcohol, drinkable, flavorful, dry, and
crisp on the palate. Light in body, Belgian

PHOTO: TYLER BURTON

Kane Brewing Company is using West Coaststyle ales and Belgian-style


beers to bring craft beer to New Jersey. By Emily Hutto

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 29

Make It

Single Fin
ALL-GRAIN
The recipe for Single Fin, a Belgian-style blonde ale, is very simple,
says Michael Kane of Kane Brewing
Co. We focus on getting great ingredients and the fermentation profile to
create a majority of the flavor.
OG: 1.042
FG: 1.008
IBUs: 23
ABV: 4.5%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

7.5 lb (3.4 kg) Continental pilsner malt


5 oz (142 g) Vienna malt
5 oz (142 g) Wheat
HOPS SCHEDULE

1 oz (28 g) Styrian Goldings at 90


minutes
0.25 oz (7 g) Styrian Goldings at
knockout
0.25 oz (7 g) Saaz at knockout
Mash for 90 minutes at 148149F
(6465C). Boil for 90 minutes
following the hops schedule. Chill to
64F (18C), then pitch the yeast. Hold
the temperature at 64F (18C) for 12
hours, then raise it to 70F (21C) over
the course of fermentation (about 1
week for primary).
YEAST

East Coast Belgian Abbaye 2 (ECY13)


or other Trappist yeast
BREWERS NOTES

Kane recommends that you start with


0.25 ounce (7 grams) each of Styrian
Goldings and Saaz at knockout and
then adjust to flavor.
Recipes are built to yield a batch size of
5 gallons and assume 72% brewhouse
efficiency unless otherwise noted.

30 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

single seemed to be the obvious choice.


We thought it would be a good platform
for pulling flavor out of yeast and malt, at
only 4 percent ABV.
Single Fin, like a lot of the other Belgian-style beers at the brewery, is brewed
with Trappist-style yeast, says Kane.
Our first, and the yeast we liked the
best, is Belgian Abbaye 2 (ECY13) from
East Coast Yeast. Thats what weve used
the most.[But] we love to experiment,
so weve also tried White Labs Trappist
(WLP500), and were about to try some
batches using their Belgian Abbey
Yeast (WLP530). For most of the year
we have a saison strain as well. Most
recently weve been using a blend of four
different strains from East Coast Yeast,
but weve used the single Dupont strain
from White Labs in the past for both our
saisons and wits, he says.
At Kane Brewing, the Belgian-style
beers are dry and highly carbonated.
Our Belgian-style quad, for example,
is between 11 and 12 percent ABV, dark,
and very dry. Its traditional, with higher
carbonation and dark fruit notes, Kane
says. We want to honor the Belgian
tradition, but are by no means experts in
Belgian-style beers. Were an American
craft brewery with a twist.
Often responsible for that twist are the
150 non-sour barrels in the brewerys ex-

panding barrel program, including bourbon, tequila, French and American oak,
brandy, and cognac barrels. This program
yields such beers as the annual release
A Night To End All Dawns, a 12 percent
ABV imperial stout that ages in bourbon
barrels for fifteen months. In 2014, Kane
created three additional versions of A
Night To End All Dawnsone aged on
Madagascar bourbon vanilla beans, one
aged on dark roast coffee from nearby
Rook Coffee Roasters, and one aged on
roasted cacao beans.
Many of the retired wine barrels that
Kane uses come from two local New
Jersey wineries: Working Dog Winery in
East Windsor and Valenzano Winery in
Shamong. For Kane Brewing, the emphasis is on New Jersey whenever possible.
We use a lot of different products that
come from New Jersey in our beers, says
Kane. Coffee, ingredients from local
farmers, and even a local microbiologist
with a small yeast companyweve used
his Trappist yeast strain.
New Jersey is smack in between New
York and Philadelphia, so the area is gateway to many other craft-beer cities, Kane
says. Some brewers have even moved
past New Jersey because markets are
easier to penetrate elsewhere. We [self-distribute] and have mostly draft sales. Were
totally focused on New Jersey.

PHOTO: TYLER BURTON

DIRECTIONS

AMERICAN INNOVATION
WGC-50

6-10 CANS PER MINUTE

WGC-100

27-31 CANS PER MINUTE

WGC-250

38-42 CANS PER MINUTE

Were pretty darned happy with the machine and the folks that
stand behind it. Your product is great and your people are great.
Billy Pyatt
CATAWBA BREWING COMPANY

1750 55TH STREET, UNIT B


BOULDER, COLORADO 80301

T: 720.406.7442
F: 720.255.2265

| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Gastronome
MATTHEW BARBEE, THE OWNER
and head brewer of Rockmill Brewery
(Lancaster, Ohio), had what he calls his first
saison experience at Gjelina restaurant on
Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach,
California. At the time, the young sommelier was most interested in wine and admittedly up until that point had a haughty
attitude toward beer and food pairing.
I was riding my beach cruiser from
Manhattan Beach to Venice Beach, he
recalls. It was a sunny afternoon; Id been
exercising; I was in the mood for a long
drink and not a short one.
Barbee and his companions ordered a
large format Dupont Saison and a salad with
burrata cheese (a fresh Italian cheese made
from mozzarella and cream) over arugula
with drizzled olive oil and grilled peaches.
The bottle came with a cork and a cage, he
remembers. The server popped the cork

32 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

aromatics immediately! I was thinking,


Whoa, whoa, whoa! This isnt beer.
But it was beer. Barbee would soon discover the wonder of saisonsnot only did
saisons and Belgian-style beers offer versatility to food pairing that hed not yet found
with wine; they also provided a connection
with Barbees agricultural roots. His grandfather was a winemaker and a farmer, and
his mother was a farmer, so the seasonality
and locality of saison spoke to him.
Historically, every major [Belgian] farm
had its own brewery on location. They
used what they had. The wheat might
be weak one year, so they brewed with
rye, or whatever they had access to. They
didnt let anything go to waste, Barbee
says. Saison is more of a mindset than a
beer style. The underlying mindset to the
etymology of saison helps give me a focus
with beer design, he adds.

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| 33

| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |


Clockwise from top Rockmill Founder and
Brewmaster Matthew Barbee hase focused heavily on beer
and food events, extensively partnering with local chefs and
restaurants for tasting dinners; a spread of cheese and
appetizers on the brewery farmhouse table; Rockmills bucolic
farmhouse location is almost as large a draw as the beer.

Beyond
Saisons
Rockmill Brewery also crafts an
abbey-style ale, a witbier, a golden
ale, and a few barrel-aged beers.
Dubbel
ABV: 8%; IBUs: 46
Spicy German hops provide balance to dark fruits and specialty
malts in this abbey-style ale.
Witbier
ABV: 6%; IBUs: 20
This wheat ale brewed with
coriander and orange peel has a
crisp, clean, refreshing body with
a citrus bouquet and subdued
bitterness.
Tripel
ABV: 9%; IBUs: 34
This golden ale is rich and fullbodied with dried fruit and delicate, spicy Saaz hops in the nose.
Cask-Aged Tripel
ABV: 10.5%
Aged in oak whiskey barrels from
Middle West Spirits, this golden
ale offers rich vanilla notes that
intermingle with the delicate notes
of the Ohio Winter Wheat Whiskey.

Beer and
Food Pairings
Here are Matthew Barbees
food-pairing suggestions for Rockmills year-round saisons.
Petite Saison
ABV: 6%; IBUs: 28
This sessionable saison has mild
spice and earthy notes. Pair it
with sunshine and Vermont
Creamerys Cremont (mixedmilk cheese), a smoked salmon
croissant, or dill, bacon, and
mushroom quiche.
Saison
ABV: 7%; IBUs: 34
Rustic, earthy, complex spice
notes are prevalent in the aroma
of this farmhouse ale, with flavors
provided by fermentation esters
and hops aromatics. Pair it with
cave-aged Gruyre, Croque Monsieur, or mussels.
Saison Noir
ABV: 8%; IBUs: 36
This dark saison has the complex
aromas and flavor of candied fruit
and sweet potato crme brle,
followed by hints of caramel and
mild tobacco in the finish. Pair it
with Ossau-iraty (a French sheepmilk cheese), cigars, or espresso-encrusted cheesecake.

34 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

That first saison experience catalyzed


Barbees move home to Columbus, Ohio,
where he would open a saison-specific
brewery, Rockmill Brewery, in 2012.
Rockmill is a Belgian-style brewery that
sticks to the terroir of our water from a
well at the brewery farm here in Rockmill.
The minerality of our water is similar to
that of Belgian beers, he says. [Its] hard
water, which I think adds structure and
gives an edge to the beer.
Although most of the beer produced at
Rockmill falls into the saison category, no
two beers are the same or even remotely
close. [Brewers] can really express themselves through this style, says Barbee,
whose year-round beer offerings include
Petite Saison, Saison, and a brand-new
Saison Noir.
This was my first time working with
roasted barley in saison, says Barbee
about the Saison Noir. We ended up with
beer Im obsessed with now. Its flavor
component is candied fruit first and then
everything Id expect from roasted barley:
caramel, tobacco, and coffee roast. Its

perfect for autumn and winter, and it has


a ridiculously sexy label.
A little less sexy beer that will still turn
some heads is Rockmills new experimental gluten-free saison, brewed with
millet and buckwheat and fermented with
Rockmills saison yeast.
Its all about the yeast, Barbee says.
Thats the responsibility of Belgian-style
brewing. A big part of our focus is making
sure yeast has a healthy life cycle and
attenuation. We play Bach and Beethoven
and whatever it feels like. That classical
music apparently makes for happy yeast,
which creates beers that are effervescent,
dry, and drinkablethe most conducive
for pairing with food in Barbees opinion.
Rockmill beers are designed to be
paired, says Barbee. We want this brewery
to find its niche in chef-driven states. I pick
the most competitive food markets out
there [for distribution]. New York, Chicago,
California, Ohio, and Kentucky Colorado
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with the Aspen Food and Wine Festival,
and I like to hang out in the mountains.

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| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

PHOTO TKTKTKTKTKTKTKTKTKT

Clockwise from top


Ben Coli and Mitchell Warner
of Dageraad Brewing in their
new taproom; Coli grains out
on brew day; Warner pulls a
sample from a fermentor.

36 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Crafted in
the Belgian
Tradition,
Brewed in BC

The Global
Citizens

PHTOS: OPPOSITE: BYRON SMITH; RIGHT: MATT GRAVES

At Canadas Dageraad Brewing, Brewmaster Ben Coli is out to create a little


piece of Belgium in British Columbia. By Emily Hutto
IN 2014, BEN COLI, the nerdiest among
his homebrew friends, took the homebrewers plunge and launched Dageraad
Brewing, which he named after the Dageraadplaats (sunrise square in Flemish),
a neighborhood square on the east side
of Antwerp, Belgium. The square is not
a tourist destination, just a neighborhood
square. Its a really lovely place to go hang
out and have a beer.
So is Dageraad Brewing. Its a small operation in Burnaby, British Columbia, that
just recently opened a cozy new tasting
room. After launching the business in
April, Coli took his time to transition his
recipes from homebrew-size batches to
ten barrels at a time.
Part of our general philosophy is
taking things slowly, says Coli, referring
specifically to the house blend of Belgian
yeast hes pitching. Belgian yeast is slow.
Its way lazier than American ale yeast or
British ale yeast.
Because Dageraad is a Belgian-style
brewery, one of the major focuses is yeast.
Were brewing moderate-gravity beers,
and the fermentor is still poppin at least a
week later, Coli adds about slow fermentation times. We dont have a production schedule, he explains, nodding to
the fact that yeast invariably attenuates.
Production schedules ruin beers. We
could probably make more money if we
jammed beer out faster, but I get way
more satisfaction out of making something special.
One of the first Belgian-style beers that
Coli homebrewed (and now brews at Dageraad) is certainly something speciala
golden strong ale brewed with pured
pears and coriander that takes at least six
weeks to ferment. He says that from his

homebrew equipment to Dageraads current 10-barrel system, that beer has never
tasted the same twice.
Another homebrew recipe brought to life
at Dageraad is the brewerys saison. Its
fermented really dry with French saison
yeast. Its peppery and fruity and crisp, and
according to Coli those flavor nuances can
vary ever so slightly from batch to batch.
That variability is what many brewers
will tell you is the bread and butter of
Belgian-style beer, which historically was
made with whatever simple ingredients
were available locally at the time. At Dageraad, Coli is re-creating traditional styles
with ingredients that are most similar to
those in Belgium.
Belgian beer is all about water, says
Coli. Here we have incredibly soft water,
which is really nice for brewing Belgian-style beers. From [that starting point],
the water can be built into anything you
want it to be by adding salts.
Were using European malts, Coli
says, mostly German, because local malt
doesnt taste the same. Canadian pilsner
malt has this sweet, corny taste to it, whereas German malt has nutty taste to it. Were
paying twice as much per bag for this
imported malt, but it makes a difference.
Finally, Dageraad is using German and
Czech hops because thats what they have
in Belgium, says Coli. Hops are especially important to Belgian blonde ales, which
have a fairly pronounced hops presence.
By the time these beers are imported
from Belgium, Coli points out, theyve lost
a lot of hops aroma. Take an enormous
quadit tastes great by the time it gets
over here, he says. But Belgian pale ales
and blondes just dont taste right by the
time they get over here.

Dageraad Blonde
ABV: 7.5%
A medium-dry blonde ale brewed
with a secret blend of spices.
Crowned with a fluffy white head,
graced with a fruity, spicy, citrusy aroma, and inspired by Belgiums strong
blonde ales.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Dageraad Blondes
citrus and spicy flavors complement
salads and desserts, while its tartness
and effervescence cut through fat
and refresh the palate, making it a
good counterpoint to heavier dishes.
Its also excellent paired with semisoft
ripened cheeses and charcuterie.
Dageraad Amber
ABV: 6%
A hoppy aroma and a crisp finish balance Dageraad Ambers light malty
sweetness and bouquet of malt and
stone fruit.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Amber is an
easygoing pub companion and an
excellent pairing beer. Its rich malt
flavor complements savory-sweet
dishes, including Indian and Malaysian
curries, braised meats, barbecue, and
pub fare.
Dageraad Randonneur Saison
ABV: 6.4%
Coli created Randonneur Saison
in the tradition of farmhouse ales
brewed in northern France and
Wallonia. Peppery and hoppy, effervescent and bone-dry, Randonneur
Saison refreshes after cycling through
the autumnal countryside.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Randonneur Saisons
peppery and lemony notes make it
a perfect companion for seafood or
salads. Its palate-scrubbing effervescence allows it to hold its own against
stinky cheeses and fried food.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 37

| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Belgian
Renaissance
While the North American craft-beer scenes 70s and
80s roots tended toward British and German styles,
an undeniable shift toward Belgian styles started in
the late 90s and has hit full strength over the past five
years. Here are a few American breweries helping lead
the current Belgian charge

River North Brewery


Denver, Colorado
This 2 -year-old brewery, located in (and named
after) Denvers River North district, launched in
2012 with a mission to brew yeast-centric beers
with Belgian-style flair. Owners Matt and Jessica
Hess continue to carve out space in the competitive
Denver craft-beer market with consistently strong
releases including their canned River North White
witbier and Belgian IPA as well as their Quandary
quad and J. Marie Farmhouse Ale. In addition to
their year-round releases, an aggressive barrel-aging
program has delivered an impressive number of
special releases, such as their fan-favorite Rum Barrel
Quandary. Recently, they jumped on the beerinspired-by-cocktails trend with a quad aged in used
Manhattan cocktail barrels. Their success is paying
off with a recent expansion into the Kansas City
market. I learned to love Belgian yeasts when I was
homebrewing, says Hess. They just produce such a
wide array of delicious and drinkable beers.
Saint Somewhere Brewing Company
Tarpon Springs, Florida
Founder and Brewmaster Bob Sylvester has earned a
reputation for being a bit of a curmudgeon, doggedly
focusing on traditional brewing methods such as
open fermentation and bottle conditioning and
even arguing in favor of green bottles (its tradition!).
But that same determination manifests itself in his
brewing, and his studious focus on Belgian styles
has produced some of the strongest farmhouse-style
ales in the southeast United States. To some, limiting
style so tightly constricts creativity, but for Sylvester,
it provides a clear framework for exploration with
beers such as Serge (a dark farmhouse ale) or Cynthiana (farmhouse ale brewed with grape must). His
recent collaboration with Cigar City Brewing, named
Deja Vu, dives into American Wild Ale territory, with
an incredible citrus hops profile that will have you
insisting they brewed with Floridas main agricultural
export (they didntthat character comes entirely
from the play of hops and yeast).

38 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

The Dageraad Blonde Ale was inspired by Belgiums variety


of strong blonde ales, ranging from semisweet to bone-dry, that
offer a huge range of fruit, hops, and spice flavors. Dageraad
Blonde gets its depth and flavor complexity from European
hops, spices, and the brewerys house yeast. It has a note of nutty
pilsner malt, a whiff of noblehops, a faint note of caramelized
sugar, andwhen the beer warmsa subtle, floral heat. The
Blonde is my favorite beer, says Coli. Bright, sparkling, fruity,
and delicious.
The Blonde is one of Dageraads two year-round beers. The other is an amber made in the Belgian pale ale tradition, says Coli.
It has a rounded malty flavor with soft hops highlights.
Although most of the brewerys beers are made in the Belgian
tradition, at the end of the day, Dageraad is still a North American
craft brewery thats open to experimentation. Our most recent
violation of tradition, jokes Coli, was a wet-hopped blonde ale
brewed with local Centennial hops. I thought the citrusy, fruity
components of those hops might go well with citrusy, fruity blonde
ale. Its surprising how much of a difference those hops make.
For Coli, Dageraad Brewing is an effort to transport a small piece
of the beer culture he found in the Dageraadplaats home to British
Columbia. I love Antwerp and the Ardennes. And I really love
the beer. But I dont live in Belgium. I live here in Vancouver. Can
we have that beer? Not just occasionally as an expensive, imported
bottle, but as a standard, locally brewed beer? Can we drink an
authentic-tasting Belgian-style beer from the other side of the city,
instead of the other side of the world? Hes determined to answer
those questions with a resounding, Yes!

PHOTO: BYRON SMITH

Logsdon Farm Brewery


Hood River, Oregon
Farmhouse isnt just a style, but a lifestyle for Dave
Logsdon, founder of the eponymouslynamed brewery. As one of the founders of Full Sail
Brewing (and founder of Wyeast Labs), Logsdon
has a depth of experience with craft beer matched
by few. For his latest act, hes built a brewery in the
big red barn on his familys 10-acre farm in Hood
River and focused on a lineup of beers thats purely
Belgian-style. From the GABF gold-winning Seizoen
Bretta to Cerasus, the World Beer Cup gold-winning
Flanders red, Logsdons PNW take on these traditional styles is making waves and racking up accolades.

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| 39

| PICK SIX |

For Victory Brewing Cofounder Bill Covaleski, choosing a


dream six-pack is like DJing: while he could select plenty of
great options, theres an art to putting together the perfect playlist.
Here are the six tracks on his current mix tape. By Jamie Bogner
MY LIST HAS A LOT TO DO WITH
memory, Covaleski says. With only six
selections, these cant be desert-island
beersthey have to have a strong memory component. For Covaleski, that beer
memoryof time, place, and the company with which it was enjoyedis far more
valuable than simply admiring a beer on
its technical merits.
I admire Budweiser from a technical
standpoint, he says. With twelve locations
and twelve different water sources, their
product consistency is technically impressive. But its not in my dream six-pack.
Good DJs are just editors, Covaleski
says. They can play anything. But choosing what to play is the real skill. Here are
my six right now, but as soon as [were
done talking], I may change my mind.

40 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

(Brouwerij Bosteels, Buggenhout, Belgium)


Tripel Karmeliet is one of those beers I
discovered after becoming a professional
brewer, after we started brewing Golden
Monkey. Its nuanced across the spectrum
and just lush and luxurious, with notes of
orange blossom and honey. Dont pigeonhole it as a tripelits pure liquid seduction that stretches outside of time and
placeand I admire it for those qualities.
Im an evangelist [for great beer] as
much as [I am] a brewer, and this beer so
perfectly breaks misconceptions of beer as
thin or bitter. No matter what kind of bad
start someone may have had with beer,
Tripel Karmeliet can break them of those
bad memories.
Our beers arent directly inspired by
anyone elses beer, but when I sit back and
drink our V Twelve [Belgian-style quad],
I sense some of the things I love about
Tripel Karmeliet.

Stone IPA
(Stone Brewing Co., Escondido, California)
Like so many people in the world of craft
brewing, I had my mind blown by Sierra Nevada Pale Ale back in 1984. It set up my lust

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| 41

Victory Cofounder Bill Covaleski at the sampling station


in their new Parkesburg,
Pennsylvania, brewery.

Its not a confounding or frustrating


beerit soothes me because its rich and
big and warmbut it plays inside my
head. There are so many things going
on, but theyre restrained and play to the
right level of subtlety. Fullers 1845 is more
orchestral than other beers.
Its funny, but I never really buy a single
bottle, because I know Ill want a second
one. I love it with Indian foodit has the
perfect depth to balance the heat of Indian
dishes. I drink one for the beer itself and
enjoy the second one with the meal.

Allagash White
(Allagash Brewing Company, Portland,
Maine)
White just nails refreshment and is a
durable food partner. I havent tasted anything the beer doesnt work with. Its just
a great beer; I dont know how to go more
in depth. Its not the most characterful,
and there arent a ton of things going on,
but its just perfectly dialed in for what its
supposed to be.

for hops and hops expression. That came full


circle in my first taste of Stone IPA.
What I find amazing about Stone IPA is
that its somewhat restrained. It has this
huge hops character, but its not just playing loud to play loud. I dont mean to be
demeaning to the category, but something
about [Stone IPA] froze time and said,
This is what were all heading for.
Theyve balanced a lot of flavors and
components in a way that makes it a great
expression of what an IPA should be.
People dont use the word nuance with
IPA, but the way theyve constructed it is
almost haunting to me.

Herzogliches Braustuberl
Tegernsee Maibock
(Herzogliches Braustuberl Tegernsee,
Tegernsee, Germany)
This beer takes me back to 1987 when
Ron [Barchet, the other Victory cofounder] and I took our first trip to Germany
and Belgium together. That trip opened

42 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

my eyes to the bigger world of brewing


culture, and the location on the lake there
is stunning.
The Maibock itself was so soulful,
almost like a big dogintimidating with
heft and character, but gentle, warm, and
invitingwith a copper malty deliciousness you can fall into liter after liter (then
not be able to walk). So very memorable,
it showcases malt and warmth and richer
flavors yet still has that spicy German
hops lift and alcoholic note on the finish
that keeps it light and edgy.

Fullers 1845
(Fuller Smith & Turner PLC, London,
England)
Fullers 1845 messes with my head as a
brewer, and Ive spent a lot of time hung
up on what components make the flavors
Ive perceived. At first I ascribed the plum
flavors to the yeast, but then it tails off in
another direction and seems to originate
in the malt.

(Brauerei Keesmann, Bamberg, Germany)


I would put my own Prima Pils in my
six-pack because I gain so much pleasure
from it, and for a brewer to say that, it says
a lot, since were generally not so motivated
toward self-promotion. The thing that
brings me back again and again is the flavor-to-body ratioso much flavor reward
and herbal hops presence and dry bite to
it for a 5.3 percent ABV beer.
Outside of Prima, my most memorable
pils is Herren Pils from Keesmann in
Bamberg. It has that light German pils
body that you expect and layers and layers
of herbal German hops deliciousness.
People often say, I dont like hops, but
what you find is that they just dont like
American varieties of hops. Ill get them
to try a pils, and they often dont think its
hoppy. Ive been fortunate to have Herren
Pils on a couple of occasions. The brewery
is situated across the street from Mahrs
brewery and in striking distance of two
other breweries, so singling them out is a
pretty lofty statement.
Germans are really good at sticking to
style, but [Herren Pils] is differentiated
and not what you would expect when I
say, German pils. The German public
measures quality based on similarity to
style, but I find nuance to the Herron Pils
that separates it from others.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF VICTORY BREWING

Keesmann Bamberger
Herren Pils

| COOKING WITH BEER |

From Herb-Marinated Goat Cheese to an apple-brussels salad topped with a


tangy Beeranch Dressing to an incredible rib-eye steak with Blue CheeseBeer Butter
and crispy potato skins to tart Lemon-Beer Hand Pies, these tangy, tart, rich dishes will
keep you warm while the weathers cold. Recipes and photos by Christopher Cina

Winter

Warme
This page: Spread tangy
Herb-Marinated Goat Cheese
on warm grilled bread.
Opposite page: Pair GrownUp Potato Skins with an
English-style pale or mild.

44 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

rs
caption

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 45

| COOKING WITH BEER |

Beer suggestions: Prepare the dressing


with a Vienna-style lager such as Great
Lakes Eliot Ness, Devils Backbone Vienna
Lager, or Neshaminy Creek Churchville
Lager. Pair the salad with a pale ale or
IPA that tilts toward the bitter/piney side
of the hops spectrumsuch as Russian
Rivers Blind Pig.

AppleBrussels Sprout
Salad with Beeranch
Dressing
Active preparation time: 20 minutes
Chilling time: 4 hours
Serves: 4
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and thinly
sliced
1 cup red cabbage, shaved
8 brussels sprouts, cored and leaves
separated
cup Cypress Grove Lamb Chopper (an
aged sheeps milk cheese), shredded
cup Beeranch Dressing (see below)
cup pecan pieces, toasted
Combine the apple, cabbage, brussels
sprout leaves, and Lamb Chopper in a
mixing bowl. Toss with the Beeranch
Dressing and divide among four plates.
Garnish with the toasted pecans.
Beeranch Dressing
Makes: 2 cups
1 cup (8 fl oz) Vienna-style lager
1 cup mayonnaise
cup fresh dill, chopped
cup fresh chives, chopped
cup fresh Italian parsley, chopped
cup fresh oregano, chopped
2 Tbs garlic, minced
1 Tbs kosher salt
1 tsp restaurant-grind (a semi-coarse
grind) black pepper
1 cup (8 fl oz) buttermilk
1 lb sour cream
Combine the lager and mayonnaise and
mix well. Add the dill, chives, parsley,
oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper and mix
well. Add the buttermilk and sour cream
and mix well. Refrigerate for 4 hours
before serving.

46 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Cast Iron Rib-Eye


with Blue Cheese
Beer Butter

Herb-Marinated
Goat Cheese
Active preparation time: 10 minutes
Marinating time: 48 hours
Serves: 24
1 Tbs fresh parlsey, chopped
1 Tbs fresh chives, minced
Tbs fresh rosemary, minced
1 Tbs fresh thyme, chopped
1 tsp garlic, minced
tsp salt
tsp black pepper
cup (4 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
4 oz Haystack Mountain goat cheese log,
cut into 1-ounce discs
Warm grilled bread
Combine the parsley, chives, rosemary,
thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper with the olive oil and mix well. Place the goat cheese
discs into two 4-ounce resealable jars.
Pour the herb oil over the cheese to cover.
Seal the jar tightly and chill for 48 hours.
Remove from the refrigerator and allow to
warm to room temperature before spreading on the warm grilled bread.
Beer suggestions: Pair with a bright pilsner, such as Victorys Prima Pils, August
Schells Pilsner, or Sixpoints The Crisp.
Or try with a klsch, such as Ballast
Points Pale Ale.

Active preparation time: 15 minutes


Cooking time: 8 minutes
Serves: 12
2 Tbs butter
One 12-oz boneless rib-eye (14-oz bone in)
cup (2 fl oz) IPA
1 pinch salt
1 pinch freshly ground black pepper
2 oz Blue CheeseBeer Butter (see below)
Place the butter in a large cast-iron pan
and place the pan over high heat. Once
the pan begins to smoke, gently lay the
rib-eye in the pan and brown the bottom.
Turn the steak over and cook to desired
doneness, being careful to avoid splattering the hot butter.
Remove from the heat just before the
rib-eye reaches your desired internal
temperature (130135F/5557C for medium-rare; 160F/71C for well-done). Deglaze the pan with the beer, then season
the steak with the salt and pepper. Place
the Blue CheeseBeer Butter on the steak
and allow it to melt slowly while serving.
Blue CheeseBeer Butter
Makes: 1 pound
lb butter (2 sticks), room temperature
lb Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese
crumbles
cup (2 fl oz) IPA
1 tsp kosher salt
2 Tbs parsley, chopped
Combine all the ingredients in a tabletop
mixer or food processor and blend together. Remove and chill until the butter sets.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 47

| COOKING WITH BEER |

Beer suggestions: A citrus-forward IPA,


such as Victorys Dirt Wolf, Lagunitas
Sucks, or Schlaflys Tasmanian IPA, works
well against the funky blue cheese. Pair
with a bold black IPA such as Firestone
Walkers Wookey Jack or Odell Brewings
Mountain Standard.

Broil under high heat until the cheese has


melted and the potato begins to brown.
Remove from the oven and finish with a
dollop of crme fraiche and a sprinkle of
chives on each potato. Sprinkle with the
remaining salt and freshly cracked black
pepper.
To turn this dish into a meal, combine
blanched broccoli with the reserved potato
flesh and fill the potato skins before you
broil them.
Crme Fraiche
Makes: 2 cups
2 cup (16 fl oz) heavy cream
2 Tbs buttermilk

Grown-Up Potato Skins


Active preparation time: 90 minutes
Cooking time: 70 minutes
Serves: 34

Combine the cream and buttermilk in a


nonreactive container. Cover with a clean
towel and place in a warm area. Let sit for
1214 hours. Refrigerate.
Beer suggestions: Nothing accompanies
upscale pub food like a great English-style
pale or mild. Were particularly fond of
the bold and assertive flavor of Summit
Brewings Union Series 3X Mild.

cup (6 fl oz) India pale lager


cup sugar
tsp salt
1 Tbs butter
cup (2 fl oz) lemon juice
1 tsp lemon zest
Pastry Dough (see below)
Oil, for frying
Powdered sugar (optional)
In a medium saucepan, combine the egg
yolks, cornstarch, lager, sugar, and salt. Cook
over medium heat, stirring constantly just
until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove
from heat and whisk in the butter, lemon
juice, and zest. Pour into a bowl and chill.
Roll the pastry dough out to -inch
thickness and cut into eight 8-inch
squares. Place 3 tablespoons of the lemon
filling in the center of the dough. Fold the
dough over the filling to form a rectangle
and press the edges closed with a fork.
Heat the oil in a deep fryer or deep pot
to 365F (185C). Fry the hand pies until
golden brown, 34 minutes. Remove from
the oil, drain, and serve warm, sprinkled
with powdered sugar if desired.
Pastry Dough

3 Russet potatoes, scrubbed


2 fl oz olive oil
2 tsp kosher salt, divided
6 oz pancetta, cooked crispy and chopped
8 oz Comt cheese, shredded
cup chives, sliced
cup crme fraiche (see below)
Freshly cracked black pepper

Makes enough dough for 68 hand pies

Preheat the oven to 400F (204C). Rub


the potatoes with the olive oil and 1 tsp
of the salt. Place in the oven and bake for
70 minutes or until potatoes are tender
on the inside and skin begins to crisp.
Remove the potatoes from the oven and
allow them to cool until you can handle
them.
Halve the potatoes and, using a spoon,
scoop out the potato flesh being careful
to leave inch to inch of potato on
the bottom. Reserve the potato flesh for
another use. Place the potato skins in a
pan and top with the pancetta and Comt.

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Work


in the shortening with a pastry blade or in
a tabletop mixer. Avoid using your hands
so the shortening doesnt warm up. When
the dough is crumbly, mix in the egg and
buttermilk until the mixture just comes
together. Cover and chill for 12 hours.

3 cup all-purpose flour


3 Tbs sugar
tsp salt
cup vegetable shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 cup (8 fl oz) buttermilk

Lemon-Beer Hand Pies


Active preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 1015 minutes
Serves: 8
2 egg yolks
3 Tbs cornstarch

Beer suggestions: Jacks Abby Hoponius


Union remains one of our favorite IPLs,
along with Samuel Adams Double Agent
IPL, Ballast Points Fathom, and Founders
Dissenter IPL.

Nothing accompanies upscale pub food like a great English-style pale


or mild. The citrus flavors in the Lemon-Beer Hand Pie match perfectly
with a modern hoppy India Pale Lager.
48 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

| IN THE CELLAR |

Past Its
Prime?
What are some of the ways a beer can go wrong? What signs
signal the point of no return? Here are seven points to consider
when youre evaluating a vintage beer. By Patrick Dawson

50 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

Vintage Beer Warning Signs

Another in a growing list of why


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BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 51

| IN THE CELLAR |

Thinning Body
One of the worst things that can happen
to an aging beer is the thinning of its
body. Over time, oxidation will reduce
a beers sugars. As these sugars are oxidized, the by-products adhere to the malt
proteins, eventually causing them to fall
out of suspension, resulting in thinning.
Many cellar-worthy styles (e.g., barleywines, imperial stouts) rely on a malty
body to let their maturing flavors shine,
and once this base is gone, the beer can
become dull and muted.

Brett-Derived Medicinal
Flavors

Many American breweries are just now


jumping on the Brettanomyces bandwagon. Brett has wonderful advantages for
cellaring: it is a fantastic oxygen scavenger
(lowering oxidative effects) and creates
a bevy of unique acids that over time
can lead to the formation of the tropical fruit-like esters. However, Brett also
has the ability to synthesize traditional
Belgian yeast phenols (clove, pepper) into
4-ethyphenol (4-EP), a unique phenol
responsible for both funky (horse sweat,
barnyard) and plasticy/medicinal flavors.
This synthesis can occur even in the
Bretty-classic Orval, which begins to exhibit these characteristics after about three
years. Once formed, these compounds are
relatively stable so, if a young Brett beer
acquires the dreaded medicinal flavor, its
time to drink up or move on.

Stale Oxidation Flavor


Stale oxidation flavor is the biggie to look
out for in your aging beer. While many of
the great flavors (e.g., sherry, amaretto,
dried fruits) found in vintage beer are due
to oxidation, its also responsible for the
dreaded stale flavor, often described as
cardboard. And while you may not regularly eat cardboard, its easy to detect (just
think stale bread). Most oxidative flavors
are age-stable, so once they appear, theyre
going to stick around. And sadly, once
theyve developed to a substantial degree,
theres no turning back.

Flatness
As a beer rests in the cellar, the bottle
closurebe it cap, cork, or swing top
will very slowly leak minute amounts

Having the ability to detect the indicative aged


aspects before a beer heads downhill can pay
dividends by enabling you to drink whatever
stock you might have left in time and helping you
learn where a beers peak is for the next time.
52 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

CHANCES ARE IF YOURE READING


this magazine, you have a beer cellar.
Aging beer is all the rage right now as
people are not only exposed to many more
styles, but also as they learn exactly what
their palates prefer. But, as eager cellarers
start to wade in, its all too easy to fall
into various traps. And one of the most
common is older is better. Its important
to remember that eventually, all cellarable
beers will succumb to the tide of time.
Okay, an exception might be made for vintage greats such as Thomas Hardys and
Cantillon, which have yet to hit the wall,
but theres nothing worse than drinking a
beer thats sat patiently for years, only to
discover that its a shell of its former self.
Its easy enough to recognize a beer
thats well past its prime with that first
sip. Even non-beer drinkers can tell old
when they taste it. However, having the
ability to detect the indicative aged aspects
before a beer heads downhill can pay dividends by enabling you to drink whatever
stock you might have left in time and
helping you learn where a beers peak is
for the next time. Consider the following
warning signs.

Introducing
the first ever programmable
fermentation thermostat

Automate gradual temperature


shifts to protect yeast
Create, Store and Share Programs
Removable microSD Card
Single and Dual Stage Models Available

www.ohmbrewautomations.com

BELGIAN INSPIRED BEERS SINCE 1995

ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY


PORTLAND MAINE

| IN THE CELLAR |

The quintessential flavors in a beer are those of


malt and hops. A young beer should have these
in spades, but given enough time they will fade,
and once they are gone the resulting beer can
become a boring one-trick pony.

Bottle conditioning, evidenced


by yeast remains in the bottle
as seen above, will prolong the
cellar life of a beer. However,
over time, the cell walls of that
yeast will break down through the
process of autolysis, creating the
potential for off flavors that range
from meaty to soy sauce to
roasted nuts.

of carbonation. Given enough time, a


beer will eventually become flat. Much
of this comes down to the closure type
(caps are generally the most secure, with
corks close behind, and swing tops being
a distant third), but it also depends on
a brewerys bottling practices. A cellars
humidity can also speed this process if
its low enough to dry out corks (below
about 55 percent). Carbonation is a critical
component to all beers, and once gone or
significantly reduced, its absence can ruin
an otherwise great beer.

Yeast Autolysis
Any beer that has been bottle-conditioned
or not filtered prior to bottling will end
up with some yeast in the bottle. Over
time, a combination of alcohol, acidity,
and temperature breaks down the yeasts
cell walls, a process called autolysis.
Depending on conditions, this can take
anywhere from one to twenty years, but
the resulting yeast guts that spill into the
beer create a variety of meaty flavors. In
dark-roasted beers, the flavor is something akin to blood, while amber-colored
barleywine-style ales suggest soy sauce.
Conversely, light-colored beers such as
saisons and lambics take on hints of
roasted nuts. In tiny doses, these facets
can add complexity to a vintage beer, but
be on alert if they begin to appear so you
dont end up with an expensive bottle of
teriyaki sauce.

Fading Beery Flavors


The quintessential flavors in a beer are
those of malt and hops. A young beer
should have these in spades, but the unavoidable consequences of an aging beer
are when the maltiness slowly tightens
and hoppiness (bitterness, aroma, taste)

54 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

begins to fade. Many beers depend on


these flavors to make them what they are,
and once they are gone the resulting beer
becomes a boring one-trick pony. The
hoppiness of American barleywines is a
classic example, as many of them are essentially Double IPAs (DIPAs) with some
caramel malt flavor. As the hoppiness
starts to fade in these beers, its time to
consider whether they have what it takes
to make it much further.

Acetaldehyde Formation
Essentially, acetaldehyde is present in
all beer, although usually at low enough
levels not to be detectable. In higher
amounts, a green apple flavor will emerge.
Typically found in beers served too young
(hence the name green beer), acetaldehyde is created during primary fermentation before being converted to alcohol
during the conditioning phase. However,
in an aging beer, the right combination
of ingredients can sometimes lead to
alcohol oxidizing back into acetaldehyde, a
generally unpleasant circumstance. Even
worse, in a wild beer with a variety of
micro biota, this acetaldehyde can then be
reduced into acetic acid (vinegar). Watch
out for dem green apples.
Again, its important to remember that
cellared beers will agegracefully for
a while, perhaps, but less gracefully as
time goes by. As Adam Avery suggests in
8 Tips for Successful Cellaring (CB&B,
Issue 1), if you think a beer is good for
cellaring, put away a case (or at least several bottles). Every once in a while, drink
a bottle. If you detect any of the warning
signs Ive mentioned, its time to decide
whether to drink up your stock or let it go
a little longer.

Say NO to Water Air Lock

YES to Fermenting/Ventilating Bungs


VIN TABLE Silicone Fermenting Bungs
Carboys Demijohns Wooden / SS Barrels / Tanks /Kegs

Contact local Beer Making Supply Store or send $5.50 ck for


sample #7 ventilating no water reqd carboy bung to:
VinTable LLC P.O.Box 405 Ambler, PA 19002-0405
Phone 215-628-4668

FAX 215-542-9903

www.vintable.com
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 55

How Women
Brewsters
Saved the
World One
Millennium
at a Time
IN THE UBER-DRAMATIC INTRODUCTION to the Discovery Channels
trail-blazing 2011 documentary How Beer
Saved the World, lightning flashes, fires
rage, wort bubbles, and beer historian
Gregg Smith tells the camera, Beer has
changed the course of human history. Not
once, not twice, but over and over again.
Calling it the greatest invention of all,
the film producers credit beer for helping
to originate math, commerce, modern
medicine, refrigeration, automation, and
even the first system of non-pictorial
writing. As they explain, our literal dependence on beer and earlier forms of alcohol

56 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Of Goddesses and High


Priestesses
Ninkasi, you are the one who pours out
the filtered beer of the collector vat; it is [like]
the onrush of the Tigris and Euphrates.
Hymn to Ninkasi
In 2004, archeologists placed the discovery
of the worlds first fermented beverage (a
mixture of fruit, honey, and rice) in Jiahu,
China, between 7000 and 5700 BCE.
The finding overturned the conventional wisdom that humans had concocted
their first grain-based drink in ancient
Mesopotamia, located in modern-day
Iran and Iraq. Historians now qualify the
Mesopotamian concoction as the worlds
first barley beer and remain committed to
their original belief that civilization began

ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY PARSONS

In the first of a two-part series, Tara Nurin (official historian of the Pink
Boots Society) explores the hidden-in-plain-sight history of women and
beer from prehistoric times up through Prohibition.

has likely shaped fundamental aspects of


human existence for 200,000 years. Yet
the producers ignore the fact that, until
fairly recently as history goes, women were
the driving force behind much of the
worlds beer production.

| HOW WOMEN BREWERS SAVED THE WORLD |

Archeologists who study fermentation agree


on one thing: the vast majority of ancient
brewers were women. While men were out
hunting, women were out gathering the
ingredients they needed to make other foods
and drink to go with the wooly mammoth or
mastodon, says Dr. Patrick McGovern.

A fragment of the Epic


of Gilgamesh, one of the
earliest descriptions of the
brewing of beer. Courtesy of
the British Museum.

in this so-called fertile crescent between


the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers.
They date the evidence found in the
Mesopotamian state of Sumer to no earlier than 3500 BCE but are confident that
the worlds first settlers began growing
barley for beer and/or bread as early as
10,000 BCE. Many suspect the hunter-gatherers who preceded Sumerians
on the evolutionary timeline also brewed
beer, accidentally creating the intoxicant in
containers filled with airborne yeast and
rain-soaked wild grains.
Though they argue over the ancient
origins, archeologists who study fermentation do agree on one thing: the vast
majority of ancient brewers were women.
While men were out hunting, women

were out gathering the ingredients they


needed to make other foods and drink to
go with the wooly mammoth or mastodon, says Dr. Patrick McGovern, the
University of Pennsylvania biomolecular
archeologist who determined that the
Mesopotamian drinking vessels contained
the earliest known barley beer.
Once our nomadic ancestors realized
they could revolutionize their lives by planting barley, wheat, and other grains, they
permanently came in off the road. But they
didnt necessarily change the divisions of
labor. Women [were] the ones who [made]
the household fermented beverages, McGovern says of those early societies.
Sumerian women brewed low-alcohol
beer for religious ceremonies and as
part of the daily food ration. Sumerian
brewers enjoyed tremendous respect, in
part because they probably also served as
priestesses of the revered beer goddess,
Ninkasi. Sumerians believed Ninkasi oversaw the brewing process and worked as
head brewer to the gods, whod gifted beer
to humans to preserve peace and promote
well-being. They showed their reverence
in the Hymn to Ninkasi, historys oldest

written beer recipe.


Two thousand years before Jesus and
around the same time that invaders
vanquished Sumer, the Mesopotamian
city of Babylon ascended by building on
its former neighbors accomplishments.
Like their predecessors, Babylonians
held women in high esteem. Babylonian
women enjoyed the right to divorce and
own business and property, and some
historians say they may have participated
in some of the worlds earliest commerce
as they sold their beer with new forms of
bookkeeping and writing. Women were
encouraged to work as tavern keepers and
professional bakers/brewers.
Archeologists hold that Babylonians or
Sumerians introduced brewing to their
neighbors, the Egyptians. Egyptians worshipped a goddess of beer named Tenenit
and told stories about the goddess Hathor/Sekhmet who saved humanity from
destruction after a binge. Hieroglyphics
depict women brewing and drinking beer
through straws, which historians say the
Babylonian brewers probably invented to
pierce thick layers of scum that floated
atop their product.

A Brief History of Women Brewsters


BEFORE THE COMMON ERA
Humans walked
out of Africa,
probably drinking
fermented
beverages the
whole way.

58 |

Agrarian society
likely begins in
Mesopotamia in
pursuit of beer,
bread, or both.

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Fruit/honey beer
fermented in
Jiahu, China.

Sumerians,
Babylonian women Egyptians develop Germanic women
believed to
invent straws to
sophisticated beer brew beer in forest
invent worddrink beer.
trade.
clearings.
based writing,
write Hymn to
Ninkasi and Epic
of Gilgamesh;
first barley beer
COURTESY OF THE ORIENTAL
brewed in Sumer
INSTITUTE OF THE UNIVERSITY OF
(modern-day Iran).
CHICAGO. PHOTO: ANNA RESSMAN.

At first, Egyptian brewing likely fell to


the women of the house. But records suggest that as production breweries spread
across Egypt, men replaced women as
brewers, and those women were pushed
into secondary roles. This corporatization
of breweries may have carried Egypt and
its most iconic female ruler toward their
demise. As the online Ancient History
Encyclopedia tells us, Cleopatra, Egypts
last Pharaoh of consequence, lost popularity toward the end of her reign more for
implementing a tax on beer (the first ever)
than for her wars with Rome, which the
beer tax went to help pay for.

Brewsters, Witches, and the


Beginnings of Capitalism
In Baltic and Slavic mythology, a goddess
named Raugutiene provides heavenly
protection over beer. Finnish legend
recounts that a woman named Kalevatar
brought beer to earth by mixing honey
with bear saliva. And while Norse folklore
indirectly credits a man for beer, the late
beer anthropologist Alan Eames wrote in
1993 that real Norsemen (a.k.a. Vikings)
allowed only women to brew the aul
that fueled their conquests. In an article
published in Yankee Brew News, Eames
noted, Viking women drank ale, flagon
for flagon, along with the men.
Early Northern Europeans worshipped
their beer goddesses as ancient Middle
Easterners did, and before the second
millennium CE, most European women
drank and brewed beer. From migratory
Germanic women who brewed in forest
clearings to avoid Holy Roman invaders to
the English alewives who maintained their
traditions until the Industrial Revolution,
European women fed their husbands and

children low-alcohol, nutrient-rich homebrew that proved more sanitary than water.
For thousands of years women brewed
an unhopped liquid called ale, whose
quick spoilage rate suited decentralized
domestic production. Some entrepreneurial female brewsters (the feminine
equivalent of the masculine brewer)
produced more than their families needed
and sold the surplus for a pittance. But
married women held no legal status,
and unmarried women held little capital.
Their predicament left them financially
and politically vulnerable and unable to
access the economic developments and
technological advancements that gradually
transformed Europe from an agrarian
society to a commercial one.
German nunneries provided a rare shelter for single women to blossom as brewsters and botanists, with St. Hildegard of
Bingen distinguishing herself as the first
person to publicly recommend hops as a
healing, bittering, and preserving agent
some 500 years before mainstream society
took heed. Outside monastic walls, a
brewsters right to self-determination lay
at the mercy of feudal lords, the Church,
or the emerging merchant classwhichever element or elements held sway in her
particular time in her particular region.
The mainstream discovery of hops
in sixteenth-century Germany gave the
ruling classes more leverage to outlaw
dangerous beer additives that brewsters
had used for centuries. Granted, purity
laws such as Reinheitsgebot undoubtedly
kept at least a few drinkers from dying.
But they also put higher-cost resources
such as hops out of brewsters reach. With
hops also came longer-lasting beer. Men
reacted by building production breweries

and forming international trade guilds.


Law and custom kept women out of both.
Meanwhile, as the Dark Ages gave
way to the Renaissance and the Age of
Exploration, brewsters werent just losing
relevance. At a time when, by some
estimations, up to 200,000 women were
prosecuted as witches, they were losing
their dignity and their lives.
Depictions of brewsters in art, literature,
and pop culture swung negative. And
although no one can prove a connection,
some historians see clear similarities between brewsters and illustrations selected
for anti-witch propaganda. Images of
frothing cauldrons, broomsticks (to hang
outside the door to indicate the availability of ale), cats (to chase away mice), and
pointy hats (to be seen above the crowd in
the marketplace) endure today.
In a culture where beer defines part of
the national character, the question of who
controls the brew is paramount, observes
a writer for the German Beer Institute.
He who has his hand on the levers of
power, also has his thumb in the peoples
beer mug. By 1700, European women had
all but stopped brewing.

Seeking a New Life in


America
Unusual, regional varieties of beer, developed by women through centuries of trial
and error became first endangered and then
extinct.Alan Eames, Yankee Brew News
Maybe youve heard the story about the
Pilgrims landing at Plymouth Rock because theyd run out of beer and needed to
build a brewhouse immediately. Well, its
bogus. Its true that the trans-Atlantic voyagers did bring beer rations across the sea

COMMON ERA
German abbess
Hildegard of
Bingen recommends hops as a
preservative as
well as for healing.

Witch trials seize


Europe.

Germans impose
Reinheitsgebot
beer purity law.

English farmers
plant first hops
crop.

American married
women serve
small beer and
cider to their
families for good
health.

First Central
Bank founded in
England; Industrial Revolution
begins; era of
brewsters ends.

Prohibition ends
legal beer brewing
in the United
States; women
and men brew
beer illegally at
home.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 59

| HOW WOMEN BREWERS SAVED THE WORLD |

and that they didnt trust the water supply


in their adopted homeland because they
knew the water back home to be unsafe.
But beer rations aboard the ship held up
just fine during the journey, and the first
thing the settlers built were huts to shelter
against the cold.
However, the truth is that once the men
built permanent housing, they each built
their wives a kitchen brewery. In colonial
America, as they had in Europe, married
women homebrewed small beer, which
they supplemented with cider, to sustain
their families.
As the colonies urbanized, city men conducted their business and pleasure in taverns provisioned by regional commercial
breweries. But in rural areas, homebrewing remained the dominant source for
beer for more than a century, and it wasnt
Thomas Jefferson who merited acclaim
as a brewer, as folklore would have us
believe. Instead, his wife, Martha, enlisted
slaves at Monticello to brew her regionally
famous recipes for wheat beer.
However, as in the past, When money
got involved, men increasingly started
brewing, says Gregg Smith, who wrote
the book, Beer in America, The Early Years:
15871840. As the industry developed, it
went that way even more.
Louis Pasteurs 1857 discovery of yeast
coincided with a massive wave of German
immigration, which brought lagers,

60 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

refrigeration, cheaper packaging, and


rail delivery to an at-once expanding and
consolidating full-scale brewing industry.
No law kept women out of these factories, but the mores of the time prevented them from entering. However, the
Germans more relaxed drinking culture
did introduce family-friendly bier gardens
to America, and proper women in East
Coast and Midwest population centers
were coaxed outside to drink publicly for
the first time. This cavalier approach
to drinking incensed the leaders of the
Temperance movement.
Though low-alcohol lager offered a
relative respite from the destructive
impulses of rum, Prohibition extended
breweries no reprieve. Beer brewing
(illegal) crept back inside the home, where
women, such as Smiths coal-country
grandmother, kept the tradition going.

They kept doing what theyd been doing,


Smith says.
Its hardly necessary to remind CB&B
readers that Prohibition proved devastating to quality beer and the beer business
by producing sixty subsequent years of
consolidated, industrial-scale brewing.
The tightly defined gender roles of the
50s and Mad Men-era marketers created
an image of beer as a drink for men,
made by commercial breweries where
women were valued only as promotional
vehicles. But what may prove surprising is
that even after Prohibition, women never
ceased brewing. Not entirely, anyway.
In northern Vermont they were constantly homebrewing in the late 60s and
early 70sboth men and women, Smith
says. It had never stopped. The same
can be said for primitive parts of South
America, Africa, and the Far East, where
women still brew for their communities
using the techniques of their maternal
ancestors. In some Peruvian, Japanese,
and Taiwanese tribes, twenty-first century
brewsters chew rice to release fermentable
starches. Women in Burkina Faso (West
Africa) mash and ferment sorghum beer
in facilities that resemble those in place
5,500 years ago, and groups of Chinese
and Cambodian women continue to slurp
beer through straws. And as contemporary Western women lace up their
pink boots and chew their way back into
brewing, McGovern predicts that a worlds
worth of discovery lies ahead.
Says the biomolecular archeologist who
officially concluded that the samples from
Jiahu and Godin Tepe had safeguarded
humanitys oldest links to beer: Women
are so often tied, through art and other
ways, to these (ancient) fermented beverages. As we acquire more information,
I believe well see that women are more
involved than we thought.
In part two of How Brewsters Saved The
World, well take this history of womens
contributions to brewing up to present times,
spotlighting the women who have helped the
modern craft-brewing revolution take root.

Prohibition proved devastating to quality


beer by producing sixty subsequent years of
consolidated, industrial-scale brewing. The
tightly defined gender roles of the 50s and
Mad Men-era marketers created an image of
beer as a drink for men, made by commercial
breweries. But women never ceased brewing.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 61

| BREWING TECHNIQUE |
Opposite, clockwise
from top left Copper
display piece, part of the old
brewhouse; thousands of
parti-gyles occurred in this
mash tun, now a display
piece; Fullers Brewery, a
longtime cornerstone in
Chiswick, circa 1978; an old
Steeles Masher (grist hydrator) in the old brewhouse.

With its reputation for complexity (and excessive amounts of math), partigyle brewing (brewing multiple worts from a single mash) has remained
a technique more talked about than actually practiced. But this staple of
historical brewing is still vital for brewers such as Londons Fullers Brewery, so homebrewer and writer Joe Stange paid them a visit to learn how
homebrewers can add it to their arsenal. Or at least lie and say they did.
YOU SHOULD KNOW UP FRONT that
you have the choice to not parti-gyle but say
that you did. You would be a liar, of course,
but you would still get to enjoy one of the
benefits of parti-gyling as a homebrewer
that is, getting to say that you did itwithout actually adding extra boils to your brew
day or doing all the math.
Now that you have been advised, we will
assume that you are an honest person and
not a liar. Good for you! Lets continue.
In short: Parti-gyling means getting multiple
beers out of the same mash. The brewer boils
successive runnings separately, and then,
ideally, blends them to different strengths.
For the average homebrewer, this appears
to be slightly insane. One mash/one boil
works well enough, and our time is pre-

62 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

cious. Why add extra boiling and chilling,


not to mention extra pots and fermentors?
For brewers of a certain era, however, parti-gyling was the sensible thing to do. It had
clear advantages. And for commercial brewers with the right setup, it still has those
advantages today. For todays homebrewers,
it is just one more tool in the toolbox, but
those advantages still come into play (and
well get to the advantages shortly).
While the technique is not especially
complicated, much of what has been written about parti-gyle has either been too
simpleleading to common misconceptionsor more technical, glazing the eyes
with gravity figures and ratios. Here we
aim for the middle way: clear but accurate.
Also, we will get valuable guidance from
John Keeling, head brewer at Londons
Fullers Brewery, producer of arguably

the best-known parti-gyled beers today.


We went all the way to Chiswick, West
London, to ask him about it and snap
pictures of him in one of those fetching
safety vests. As he says, [Parti-gyling] is
the most efficient way to get the most out
of your mash tun. He ought to know; he
has been doing it since 1981.
Parti-gyling is an old method, used for
centuries, to get more beer(s) out of the
same grains. The usual but not-quite-right
way to describe it is that you make one
beer out of the stronger first runnings, another beer out of weaker second runnings,
and possibly even a third or more beers
from additional runnings.
Technically, that counts. Separate runnings is legitimate parti-gyling, Keeling
says. But thats the crude way, and it
ignores roughly 230 years of better practice.
Keeping those worts separate means that
you miss two of the great advantages of this
technique: blending worts to hit target gravities, meanwhile making more types of beer.
To illustrate how it works, Keeling describes an approximation of a typical run
at Fullers. He brews two worts from the
mashthe first runnings hit about 1.080

PHOTOS: JOE STANGE

Practical
Parti-Gyle
Brewing

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 63

| BREWING TECHNIQUE |

Having worts of
strengths that are
both high and low lets
[Fullers] blend them
and nail those target
gravities every time.

More About
Fullers Brewery

Top Fullers Mawson


Arms pub dates back
to 1715. Above
The wall of wisteria is
said to be the oldest in
Britain, dating back to
two clippings that arrived
from China in 1816.

64 |

Fullers Brewery is not the only British brewery that parti-gyles, only
the best known. That might be because Fullers does a better job
than most of welcoming visitors and telling its story.
Walking through the posh district of Chiswickwith its trendy
coffee shops and $8 million homesone turns a corner near the
river and finds a strategically preserved piece of the nineteenth
century. With its red-brick buildings and respectable smokestack,
the Griffin Brewery of Fuller, Smith and Turner has been a cornerstone of this community for at least 170 years. In fact, brewing has
been going on at the same location since the 1500s.
One symbol of its pedigree is a famous wisteria plant that clings
to its offices. This is said to be the oldest wisteria in Britain; it began
as one of two clippings that arrived from China in 1816. The other
went to the Royal Botanical Gardens but later died.
Fullers is aware of its status as an attraction, offering frequent
tours and a well-stocked brewery shop. Tours start next door at the
Mawson Arms pub, which itself dates to 1715.

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

gravity, while the second runnings come


in at about 1.020. At least three beers
come out of those two worts: Extra Special
Bitter (ESB), London Pride, and Chiswick
Bitter, going from strongest to weakest.
Each beer is a blend of both worts. (Sometimes the same mash also produces Fullers stronger ales, such as Golden Pride or
Vintage Ale. Even those beers get a small
portion of the weaker wort.)
The ESB typically starts between 1.050
and 1.060, depending on whether it is
for cask or bottled for export. London
Prideby far Fullers most popular brand,
representing three of every beer sold
starts near 1.040. The beautifully subtle
Chiswick Bitter, mainly meant for cask at
about 3.5 percent ABV, starts with a gravity near 1.035. Basically, having worts of
strengths that are both high and low lets
Keeling blend them and nail those target
gravities every time.
Why do it like this? For consistent
products and for efficiency in the brewhouse. Consistency is really important,
Keeling says. I want [the beer] to have
personality and character in there, so it
does tell me something different from
time to time. We have standards and
values here about how to make beer. The
observations and what they do, thats
what makes the difference.
Later I ask Keeling to clarify that idea
the balancing of consistency and personality. The first thing I want a drinker
to do is recognize the beer. Then the

Make It

No-Math Parti-Gyle
Old Ale, IPA, and ESB
Right Casks on display
in the old Fullers brewhouse.
Below Fullers Head
Brewer, John Keeling, with
humming grain mills in
action on the floor above the
current mash tuns.

ALL-GRAIN
From simplest recipe to myriad outcomes, flexible parti-gyle style.
TOTAL BATCH SIZE

10 gallons/37.8 liters (two worts of 5 gallons/18.9 liters each)


MALT/GRAIN BILL

24 lb (10.9 kg) Maris Otter malt


HOPS SCHEDULE

3.5 oz (99 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the first boil
1.3 oz (37 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the second boil
DIRECTIONS

beers character reveals itself through the


years of drinking, he says. Consistency
comes from the [brewery] and its use, but
in brewing there are lots of individual
decisions to be made. For example, how
long should the brewer recirculate wort
before starting runoff? When should the
brewer stop the runoff? Based on gravity
and other observations, should the mash
temperature be tweaked? Should the mill
setting be adjusted?
And about that efficiency? Keeling says
the second wort is really allowed to run
until the extract gets as low as 1.005.
[We] get everything [we] can out of the
mash tun.
After blending, the beers diverge further
during maturation. The ESB spends two
to three weeks maturing, with hops in the
tank. The London Pride is matured for a
week but not dry hopped. The Chiswick
gets a week and is dry hopped.
And there, in that variation, lies the other
major benefit of parti-gyling: the flexibility
to make many different beers from the
same mash. For homebrewers unbound to
tradition or branding, the possibilities are
practically infinite. Hop the worts differently. Boil one of them longer. Give them
different yeasts. Ferment them at different
temperatures and for different lengths of
time. The only thing not easily changed,
of course, is the grain bill, although it is
possible to cap later runnings with extra
malt or to add sugar, thus allowing changes
to color, flavor, and strength.

Mash at 152F (67C) for 60 minutes. Draw 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) of first runnings
and start your first boil. Boil for 90 minutes. Meanwhile, sparge to draw an additional 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) for the second wort. Optionally, continue to sparge
until the runnings drop to 1.005 gravityto get more, lighter second runnings or
additional third runnings that can be used for blending.
Boil the second wort (for 90 minutes) as soon as feasible. This is where the extra
brewing equipment comes in handy. Many of us must boil and chill the first wort,
then set it aside until were ready to blend.
First wort after 90-minute boil
Estimated OG: 1.090
Estimated IBUs: 46
Second wort after 90-minute boil
Estimated OG: 1.045
Estimated IBUs: 25
After chilling, blend the two worts to make at least three different beersand with
many more potential variations.
For the strongest beer, blend 3 gallons (11.3 liters) of the first wort and 1 gallon
(3.8 liters) of the second to get 4 gallons (15.1 liters) of OG 1.079 wort at an estimated 41 IBUs. This becomes your old ale or barleywine.
For the second beer, blend 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of each wort to get 2 gallons (7.6
liters) of OG 1.067 wort at an estimated 35 IBUs. This becomes your strong ale or
IPA.
For the third beer, blend the remaining 4 gallons (15.1 liters) to get a wort of OG
1.056 at an estimated 30 IBUs. Even as the weakest of the three, its still strong
enough to be a traditional ESB.
VARIATIONS

Traditionalists can go with a favored British yeast strain and decide whether they want to dry hop any or all of these beers
in primary, secondary, or keg (or cask, even better).
But any combination of yeasts and fermentation can
be used, with or without extra hops, to create a wider
variety of beers. Belgian yeast, lager yeast, Brettanomycesthere is room to play. The simplicity of this
single-malt, single-hops recipemeant as a starting
pointalso makes it easy to go even further by
subbing in different grain bills or hops varieties.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 65

| BREWING TECHNIQUE |

Sorry, Did
We Say There
Would Be
No Math?
This is for extra credit then.
Parti-gyling is less intimidating
if you are not fussy about target
gravity, but I know some of you want
to predict everything on paper and
then nail it on brew day. You have my
admiration, because I am the type
to predict everything on paper then
completely miss it on brew day, taking
notes to record it with the hilarious
notion of repeating it in the future.
Well go with Keelings example
of two worts of 1.080 and 1.020,
respectively. With those worts youd
like to make three beers of varying
strengthslets say an IPA at 1.070,
a mid-range pale ale at 1.050, and a
saison of 1.040.
How do you make that happen?
This is where the math comes in.
The simplest way to do the math is
to use the gravity points
80 and 20in per gallon terms. Lets
assume you draw 5 gallons of each
wort, so your total points are 400
and 100 respectively (80 5 = 400;
20 5 = 100).
Are you with me so far? To get 2
gallons of 1.070 wort (for the IPA),
we want 70 points per gallon or
140 points. The way to get there is
to blend 1 gallons of the stronger
wort with gallon of the weaker one.
Okay, Ill show my work:
1 80 = 133 and 20 = 6
133 + 6 = 140
140 2 = 70
You get the idea. The next one is
easy. When you take 2 gallons from
each wort you get a neat 200 points,
divided by 4 gallons to make a tidy
1.050. Theres your pale ale.
That leaves 4 gallons1 gallons of
strong stuff to blend with 2 gallons
of lighter stuff. You end up with 4
gallons worth 160 points, and theres
your 1.040 wort for your saison.
Thats an illustration. Its not
necessary to nail your 1.080 and
1.020 gravities in the first place, as
long youre ready to do some math
with what you have. Also be aware
that these are post-boil gravities, as
the boil will concentrate the strength
somewhat.
There are other ways to be flexible:
For example, hit your targets on two
of your beers but take whatever
you get on the third; or, hit all three
of your targets without using all of
your wort, saving the rest for a yeast
starter or some other use.

66 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Top Keeling pages


through Fullers historic
brewing logs. Above
Freshly filled Fullers casks
roll through the production
line.

Keeling refers to parti-gyling as a particularly Victorian way


of making beer. What does that mean exactly? In this context, it
means practical and industrial. The Victorians inherited early
industrial techniquesthen they improved them. The cost of
malt was high relative to wages. Meanwhile pubs and drinkers
were apparently accustomed to a wide range of beers to suit preference or occasion. Parti-gyle was not a trick in that environment;
it was common practice that had improved over time.
Modern homebrewers, meanwhile, typically dont mind spending extra on maltwe know our hobby costs money; we are not
in it for profit. Free time for additional boiling and chilling, on
the other hand, can be hard to come by. And for those of us using
gas burners, propane isnt cheap either.
But if youre interested in historical beer and brewing techniques, are motivated to produce greater variety, have extra free
time and/or additional vessels (which can help trim the extra
time needed), have a fetishistic love of arithmetic, and/or are
usually sober toward the end of the brew day, parti-gyling may be
just the technique for you.
For my part, I have parti-gyled a couple of times (really!). The
beers turned out nicely, thanks, but if Im honest with myself
and I am nothing if not honest, sirs and madamsI did it mostly
just so I could say that I had.

ancient tradition
Meets Cutting Edge Tech

For more information, see:


www.misco.com/beer
MISCO
Refractometer
Solon, Ohio

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 67

68 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Hopeless
Homebrew
Solutions
Lets face ithomebrewers sometimes craft batches that just arent drinkable, especially when
theyre new to brewing or using new equipment or ingredients. So what do you do with a
multi-gallon batch of oops? Here are four significantly tastier solutions. By Emily Hutto

1.

If the batch is too yeasty or too


husky, make beer biscuits.

Find yourself with a yeast bomb or an astringent, grainy


homebrew? These yeasty, overly husky flavors are hardly desirable in beer; however they can be nice flavor complements
to beer bread, biscuits, and other beery baked goods.
Heres a biscuit recipe passed down from my mother that
Ive adapted as beer bread, which tends to take on the flavor
profile of the beer style used. For sweeter, darker breads,
use porters, stouts, or other dark ales. For drier, more savory
breads try pale ale, IPA, or pilsner.

PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW


If the beer was too yeasty, use a clean, healthy yeast strain and
be sure to let the beer ferment long enough so the yeast settles out. If the beer was too husky, be sure to properly crush
all of your grain (if youre doing so yourself ) so that it can all
be extracted during sparging. Additionally, cold conditioning
the beer can help its graininess to settle out with the yeast.

Beer Biscuits
2 cup bread flour
1 tsp sugar
2 tsp baking powder
tsp baking soda
tsp salt
cup butter
cup shortening
1 cup ( 8 fl oz) homebrew
Preheat the oven to 450F (232C). In a
large mixing bowl, combine the flour,
sugar, baking powder, baking soda,
and salt. Cut in room temperature pats
of butter and shortening. Add the beer.
Knead into the dough. With a rolling
pin, roll out the dough to a -inch
thickness. Cut with a biscuit cutter,
then place in a greased cast-iron pan.
Bake 1416 minutes until biscuit tops
are slightly golden.
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 69

| HOPELESS HOMEBREW SOLUTIONS |

2.
Your
Spent
Grain
After a brew day,
salvage the spent
grain by either immediately freezing
it or drying it on a
baking pan at 200F
(93C) until the batch
is crisp. From there,
the grain can be
used directly in a
baked-goods recipe
or ground to make
spent-grain flour.
If you have a loyal
brew dog, he or she
will appreciate this
spent-grain dog
treat recipe that
Ive adapted from
Deschutes Brewery,
with added herbs
for minty fresh dog
breath.
Spent-Grain Dog
Biscuits
2 cup spent grain
2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 cup natural peanut
butter
cup fresh mint,
chopped
Preheat the oven
to 350F (177C). In
a large bowl, blend
the ingredients
together to form a
dough. Roll out the
dough on a floured
surface and use
a cookie cutter to
cut desired shapes.
Put the shapes on
a cookie sheet and
bake for 30 minutes.
For longer lasting
treats, after those 30
minutes reduce the
heat to 225F (107C)
and bake for 2 more
hours.

70 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

If the batch is under-attenuated or


under-carbed, make beer soap.

Fermentation and carbonation issues in homebrew are a


great excuse to take on another unique DIY project: soap
making. Cate Evans-Baze, who owns Let It Be Naturals in
Colorado, crafts a line of beer soap using beer from local
breweries.
Heres my story about beer soap, she says. Beer soap making requires the cold-process method. You can basically take
any recipe that you like and simply replace the water with
beer, says Evans-Baze.
Start the beer-soap process with cold, flat beer. I usually put my
beer in a large glass bowl in the refrigerator for three or more
days, says Evans-Baze. Every time I open the fridge, I stir the
beer to help with the process of losing carbonation. Some people
decide to boil their beer for a bit and then either put it in ice cube
trays or back in the refrigerator for another day. Bottom line: the
beer must be flat, and it must be cold.
The beer must be cold because the next step, adding the lye
or alkaline solution, can be tricky. Even with water, the lye
gets crazy, crazy hot, but the beer takes [the temperature] to a
whole new level.
This lye mixture can have a funky smell, says Evans-Baze.
You can counteract that smell with the use of essential oils and
other ingredients. There are an endless number of things you
can throw in the recipe, she explains. Ive added coriander,
lemon peel, crushed hops, ground-up barley, and amazing
essential oils that complement the beer.
THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW
Be sure that fermentation is complete before bottling. At bottling,
make sure that youve added the right amount of priming sugar
to your beer and that you still have a healthy yeast population. For
high-gravity beers that spent a long time in the fermentor, you
may need to add fresh yeast to the bottles before conditioning. Let
bottles sit at fermentation temperature or room temperature for
at least two to three weeks.

3.

If the batch is too


boozy, barbecue it.

If your batch of imperial stout has alcohol heatbut not in a


good waytame the sharpness by reducing it down to a barbecue sauce. Heres an adapted Breckenridge Brewery recipe
for this crafty condiment. Typically the brewery makes this
beer-barbeque sauce with its Oatmeal Stout.
THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW
Extra booziness is often the result of too high of fermentation temperatures or excess yeast in fermentation. Keeping
fermentation temperatures within the specified range of your
chosen yeast strain and highly attenuative yeast can help to
solve those issues.

Beer-Bar Soap
33 oz coconut oil
4.83 oz lye (NaOH)
12 oz homebrew
oz essential oils of
your choice
Youll also need pH strips and
a slow cooker.
Pour the cold beer into a
glass bowl and add the lye to
the beer (dont add the beer to
the lye). Do this step outside
while wearing protective gear
as the mixture will get very
hot. Cool for 10 minutes.
Melt the coconut oil in a
saucepan and add it to the
slow cooker. Add the cooled
beer/lye mixture to the slow
cooker. Stir the ingredients
until they form a thick
sauce-like substance. Cover
and cook on low heat for 45
minutes to an hour. The soap
is finished when it is translucent and at a pH level of 7 to
10. Wait until the soap cools
and add essential oils. When
soap is cool and firm, cut into
squares and let dry.

Beer-Barbeque
Sauce
cup molasses
cup mustard
cup chili sauce
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
cup powdered onion
tsp salt
tsp pepper
cup homebrew
Combine all the ingredients
in a small saucepan and bring
to a boil. Reduce heat and
simmer for 15 minutes.

4.

If the batch is too


estery, brine it.

Professional chef-turned-homebrewer Sean Paxton, who


runs the cooking-with-beer website hombrewchef.com, is
a big fan of beer brine. During brining, osmosis removes
liquid from the meat being brined and replaces it with flavors that hydrate the meat, Paxton explains. If your Dopplebock or Hefeweizen took on an estery life of its own
during fermentation, soak up those extra fruit-forward
flavors with roasted turkey. Here is Paxtons turkey brine
recipe, adapted with some extra basil and rosemary. Add
your own fresh herbs or spices to brine out with a bang.
THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW
Try fermenting at a lower temperature. The higher the
temperature, the more ester character your beer will display. You can also consider switching to a yeast strain that
produces fewer esters.

Beer-Brined Turkey
4 qt homebrew
2 cup kosher salt
1 cup sugar
4 bay leaves
2 bunches fresh rosemary
1 cup loosely packed basil
3 bunches fresh thyme
3 yellow onions, peeled and chopped
3 stalks celery, sliced
3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced
2 lemons, quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
4 qt ice or water
1 turkey (thawed if frozen)
In a large pot, combine the beer, salt, sugar, bay
leaves, rosemary, basil, thyme, onion, celery, carrots,
lemons, and garlic.Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and
simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.Add
the ice or cold water; it will help cool the brine solution.Add the turkey to the brine and refrigerate for
1 hour or until well-chilled.
Preheat the oven to 350F (177C).Remove the turkey from the brine and pat dry.Truss the bird with
twine to hold its shape and cook evenly.Place in a
roasting pan and roast until a temperature probe
inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers
an internal temperature of 165F (74C).(If you
dont have a probe, a 16- to 20-pound turkey should
take between 3 and 4 hours to fully cook at this
temperature.) Let the turkey rest for 2030 minutes
before carving.This will help the keep the turkey
moist by letting the meat relax and redistribute its
juices.

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| 71

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The Power of

PALE
Ale

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 73

The Power of

PALE
Ale

Pales
A PALE ALE STYLE GUIDE

in Comparison
By Dave Carpenter

74 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

WERE YOU TO PRESENT a taster tray


to a craft-beer newcomer and ask your
subject to identify the pale ale in the
lineup, he or she could be forgiven for
pointing to the Pilsner. The pale in pale
ale is a holdover from a time when most
British pints were opaque (See How
Pale is Pale? page 77), while todays pale
ales are almost universally a translucent
copper hue, somewhere between blonde
ale and amber.
The name might not be as apt an appellation as it once was, but pale ale is more
relevant than ever. Walk into any pub in
Britain and youre virtually guaranteed a
pint of bitter, lovingly pumped up from
the cellar with a swan-necked beer engine.
And American pale ale lies at the very
heart of the Hophead Revolution, offering
a blank canvas upon which to slather hops
even while retaining enough malt backbone to remind you that it isnt an IPA.
Pale ales appeal lies in its ability to invite
endless experimentation while remaining
an intimately familiar everyday ale. When
your palate cant take another sour and
your liver has had it with imperial stout,
pale ale is the old friend you keep coming
back to again and again.

From Whence It Came


Once upon a time, all beer was dark and
smoky thanks to rudimentary malt kilning
techniques that involved wood fire and
offered brewers little control over the drying
process. As technology improved, malts became increasingly lighter in color, culminating in the so-called white malt that brewers
in Burton-on-Trent favored in the 1800s. So
popular was this extra pale malt that Czech
brewers stole the idea and invented what we
now know as Pilsner malt.
Armed with this new pale malt, British
brewers exported vast quantities of pale
ale to India before it began catching on
in Britain as a refreshing alternative to
various brown and black beers. Thus, pale
ale as a distinct style emerged initially as
pale ale for India and later as the diverse
family of English bitters whose starting
gravities were eventually driven southward
by taxes and wartime rationing.

English Pale Ale


English pale ales are affable and approachable. Also known as bitter, English pale ale
is a single continuum of beer styles (more
on that in a bit), with some examples barely breaching 3 percent alcohol by volume

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 75

The Power of

PALE
Ale

MAKE IT

Tag Team
Pale Ale
ALL-GRAIN
Brewers from Odell Brewing Company
and New Belgium Brewing Company
developed Tag Team for the 2013 Taste
of Fort Collinsa three-day festival that
offers local food, beer, entertainment, and
artwork. While the original gravity is right
in line with American pale ale, the hops
load is more akin to American IPA.
OG: 1.050
FG: 1.011
IBUs: 50
ABV: 5.1%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

8 lb (3.6 kg) Pale malt


10 oz (283 g) Pilsner malt
8 oz (227 g) Munich malt
8 oz (227 g) Carafoam
6 oz (170 g) Caramalt
HOPS SCHEDULE

0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 45 minutes


0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 35 minutes
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 25 minutes
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 15 minutes
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 5 minutes
1 oz (28 g) Crystal at knockout
1 oz(28 g)Crystal at end of whirlpool
1.50 oz(43 g)Nugget at dry hop (5 days)
0.75 oz(21 g)Amarillo at dry hop (5 days)
0.75 oz(21 g)Perle at dry hop (5 days)
DIRECTIONS

Mash for 60 minutes at 151F (66C),


sparge, and boil for 90 minutes, following
the hops schedule. Add knockout hops
at flameout, and whirlpool for 10 minutes. (Whirlpool is a post-boil, pre-chill
technique that professional brewers use
to concentrate the trub and hops solids to
the center of the boil kettle.) If your system doesnt permit a whirlpool, a 10-minute hop standallowing the hot wort to
sit for 10 minutes before chillingis a
great substitute. Add end-of-whirlpool
hops, then chill and transfer to fermentor.
Ferment 10 days at 66F (19C), then rack
to secondary and add dry hops. Package in
bottles or kegs after 5 days of dry hopping.
YEAST

White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale or


Wyeast 1098 British Ale or Safale S-04

76 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

TABLE 1

Style Guidelines for


English Pale Ales
BJCP 2008

GABF 2014

Ordinary
(standard) bitter

OG 1.0321.040
FG 1.0071.011
IBU 2535
ABV 3.23.8%

OG 1.0331.038
FG 1.0061.012
IBU 2035
ABV 3.04.2%

Special
(best) bitter

OG 1.0401.048
FG 1.0081.012
IBU 2540
ABV 3.84.6%

OG 1.0381.045
FG 1.0061.012
IBU 2840
ABV 4.24.8%

Extra special
(strong) bitter

OG 1.0481.060
FG 1.0101.016
IBU 3050
ABV 4.66.2%

OG 1.0461.060
FG 1.0101.016
IBU 3045
ABV 4.85.8%

(ABV) and others climbing to 6 percent


ABV or higher. These beers also tend to
have wonderfully evocative names such
as Workie Ticket (Mordue Brewery),
Old Hooky (Hook Norton Brewery),
Big Lamp Bitter (Big Lamp Brewery),
and Old Speckled Hen (Greene King
Brewery).
Built on a foundation of nutty, biscuity
British pale malt, English pale ales
almost invariably feature a healthy measure of crystal malt, which adds caramel
or toffee-like depth. Some examples also
include a bit of toasted or roasted malt,
more for color than flavor, and others
even sneak in maize or sugar adjuncts
from time to time.
Hops are almost always of English
origin. Floral, earthy East Kent Goldings
hops are perhaps most closely associated
with English pale ale, but minty, grassy
Fuggle comes in a close second. Styrian
Goldings from Slovenia also find their
way into these beers, but Styrians are
biologically Fuggles, not Goldings. Common bittering hops include Challenger,
Northdown, and Target.
A defining feature of English pale ale is
a recognizable complement of fruity esters that derive from the signature yeast
strains that ferment these ales. As a general rule, English strains are moderate
attenuators and highly flocculent, which
means that English pale ale tends to be
brilliantly clear and full-bodied. It is this
fullness on the palate that makes even

low-gravity examples sturdy enough to


prop up a night of larking about.
English pale ales are usually at their best
when served in the traditional way, which
is with low carbonation (1.11.5 volumes,
or 23 grams per liter, of CO2) and at
cellar temperature (5055F/1013C).
When English pale ale first came on
the scene, pub customers commonly
requested pints of bitter to distinguish
such ales from sweeter, maltier mild ales.
The name stuck, and nowadays, the term
bitter typically implies a cask-conditioned
draft product that one purchases in a pub,
while pale ale means a bottled beer meant
to be consumed off premises.
Finally, a note on nomenclature. Bitter,
ordinary bitter, special bitter, best bitter,
and extra special bitter (ESB) are all
English pale ales: They differ only in
their relative strengths. The Beer Judge
Certification Program (BJCP) 2008 and
Great American Beer Festival (GABF)
2014 style guides divide English pale ale
into three completely arbitrary categories, shown in Table 1.

American Pale Ale


The pioneers of American craft brewing
initially followed British brewing traditions because the equipment requirements are relatively simple, and much of
the early homebrewing literature came
from the United Kingdom. But, as is
usually the case, American craft-brewed
pale ale soon broke ranks from traditional

How Pale
Is Pale?

Color (SRM)
Blonde ale

When is pale not pale? When it refers to pale ale,


of course! Below are some color ranges for a few
selected styles, as suggested by the Beer Judge
Certification Programs (BJCP) 2008 guidelines.
Not only are English and American pale ales
generally several shades darker than blonde ale,
cream ale, wit, and Klsch, but they are often as
dark as Vienna and Oktoberfest, both considered
amber lagers.
It all comes down to context. Pale ale is, in fact,
pale, but only in comparison to mild ales, brown
ales, porters, and stouts. As I explain in Pale by
Comparison (page 74), until pale malt became
widely available, beer would have necessarily
been some shade of brown or black. The term
pale ale was coined when improved kilning technology enabled brewers to create ever-lighter
malts, which led to ever-lighter beers. Compared
to the porters of yore, the new beers were very
pale, indeed.
But still today, the term can remain a bit of
a stretch, even within the style category itself.
Apparently different brewers have different ideas
of what it means to be pale. Here are the approximate SRM values of a few commercial examples:

Firestone Walker Pale 31 7 srm


Mirror Pond Pale Ale 9 srm
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 10 srm
Fort Collins Brewery 1020 Pale Ale 12 srm
Firestone Walker DBA 13.5 srm
Schlafly Pale Ale 13.5 srm
Ska Brewing Euphoria Pale Ale 15 srm

Witbier

American pale ale


English pale ale
Saison
Belgian tripel
Belgian golden
strong ale

10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Cream ale

Klsch

Vienna lager
Oktoberfest lager

All of this is, of course, fairly inconsequential,


particularly in light of such category-defying
terms as black IPA and golden stout. As far as Im
concerned, you can call your beer whatever you
like, as long as it tastes good!

As with most American derivatives of English


styles, hops play a greater role in American pale
ale than they do in the British original, but its not
just about quantity: Its even more a question of
aroma and flavor.
English bitters and charted its own course,
which, naturally, includes more hops.
The archetypal American pale ale (APA)
is that brewed by Sierra Nevada Brewing
Company (Chico, California), which is
usually credited as having invented the
style. What originally set Sierra Nevadas
interpretation apart was its reliance on the
then-boisterous Cascade hops, with its
signature grapefruit-like aroma and flavor.

This paved the way for countless others,


including Mirror Pond from Deschutes
(Bend, Oregon), Zombie Dust from Three
Floyds (Munster, Indiana), AlesSmith X
(San Diego, California), Victory Headwaters (Downington, Pennsylvania), Firestone
Walkers Pale 31 (Paso Robles, California),
and Dales Pale Ale from Oskar Blues
(Lyons, Colorado).
While English pale ales remain fairly

balanced between malt and hops, American pale ale definitely leans toward the
latter. The malt backbone of American pale
ale is mostly there to balance the hops,
although care should be taken not to be
too restrained with the malt, lest one end
up in IPA territory. The typical grist for an
American pale ale is built on American
pale malt or 2-row, with varying amounts of
caramel malt. Some brewers like to include
a portion of Munich or Vienna malt to
fortify the background malt character, but
this is by no means universal.
As with most American derivatives of
English styles, hops play a greater role in
American pale ale than they do in the British original, but its not just about quantity:
Its even more a question of aroma and flavor. While English pale ales display floral,
earthy, and even grassy hops aromas and
flavors, American brewers prefer to infuse
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 77

The Power of

PALE
Ale

TABLE 2

Style Guidelines for


American Pale Ales

The archetypal
American pale ale
(APA) is that brewed by
Sierra Nevada Brewing
Company. Its reliance
on then-boisterous
Cascade hops, with
their signature grapefruit-like aroma and
flavor, set it apart.
78 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

BJCP 2008

GABF 2014

American
pale ale

OG 1.0451.060
FG 1.0101.015
IBU 3045
ABV 4.56.2%

OG 1.0441.050
FG 1.0081.014
IBU 3050
ABV 4.45.4%

American
strong pale ale

N/A

OG 1.0501.060
FG 1.0081.016
IBU 4050
ABV 5.66.3%

their pale ales with citrus, pine, resin, and


tropical fruit. Typical hops varieties found
in American pale ales include old classics
such as Cascade, Centennial, Columbus,
and Chinook; proprietary examples such
as Amarillo, Ahtanum, Citra, Simcoe,
and Mosaic; and, increasingly, hops from
Down Under such as Pacifica, Rakau,
Motueka, and Galaxy.
Another distinguishing characteristic
of American pale ale has to do with the
timing of hops additions. While English
bitters usually rely on a single bittering
charge and a moderate flavor and aroma
dose toward the end of the boil, late hopping is essential to American examples of
this style. Virtually all American pale ales
feature a generous addition of hops within
the last few minutes of the boil; most
receive some kind of addition at flameout;
and many are even dry hopped. This late
hops character makes American pale ale
so intoxicating.
American pale ales usually exhibit restrained yeast character. A few subtle esters
are there, enough to let you know youre
not drinking a lager, but the overall impression is clean enough that ones focus
remains on the brewers expression of malt
and hops. In fact, the most popular APA
yeast strain for homebrewers and professionals alike is the so-called Chico strain,
said to have originated with Sierra Nevada
and sold commercially as Wyeast 1056
American Ale, White Labs WLP001 California Ale, and Fermentis Safale US-05.
As shown in Table 2, the BJCPs 2008

style guide recognizes one American pale


ale (IPA notwithstanding), while the GABF
2014 guidelines describe two (for more information about the American strong pale
ale, see Beyond Bitter, page 83).

Belgian Pale Ale


While one usually thinks of England and
the United States when speaking of pale
ale, the Belgians also produce the aptly
named Belgian pale ale. Built on European Pilsner malt, Belgian pale ale is a
delight, balancing up-front malt sweetness
with toasty whole-wheat cracker-like overtones and just enough hops bitterness to
keep everything in check. A Belgian yeast
strain usually offers up a bit more in the
way of esters than is found in American
pale ale, but fermentation by-products
arent nearly as intense as those that typify
dubbels, tripels, and Belgian strong ales.
Commercial examples of Belgian pale
ale include De Koninck (Antwerp, Belgium), Rare Vos from Brewery Ommegang (Cooperstown, New York), and New
Belgium Brewings Fat Tire (Fort Collins,
Colorado/Asheville, North Carolina),
which may be marketed as an amber ale,
but stylistically, its a Belgian pale ale.
Whether youre enjoying a nonic pint of
bitter in Leeds, a shaker glass of APA in
Portland, or a bolleke of biscuity Belgian
beer in Antwerp, theres a pale ale for every
occasion. As comfortable with a bowl of
steamed mussels as it is with cold leftover
pizza, its the ultimate everyday beer that
makes others pale in comparison.

CB&B RECIPE

City Boy APA


ALL-GRAIN
This single-hops pale ale showcases the
versatility of high alpha-acid Citra hops
as both a bittering and aroma hops.
Estimated OG: 1.058
Estimated FG: 1.017
Estimated IBUs: 42
Estimated ABV: 5.3%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

11 lb (5 kg) pale malt (2-row)


2.5 lb (1.1 kg) caramel malt (10 SRM)
1 lb (453 g) caramel malt (20 SRM)

HOPS SCHEDULE

1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 30 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 15 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 0 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at dry hop
DIRECTIONS

Mash at 151F (66C) for 60 minutes.


Boil for 90 minutes, following the hops
schedule. Volume after boil should
be 6 gallons to allow for absorption of
liquid by the hops in the dry-hop stage.
Ferment at 65F (18C). Dry hop for 13
days.
YEAST

White Labs WLP041 Pacific Ale


Recipes are built to yield a batch size of
5 gallons and assume 72% brewhouse
efficiency unless otherwise noted.

CB&B RECIPE

READER RECIPE

American
Mate Pale Ale

30-Minute
Pale Ale

ALL-GRAIN

ALL-GRAIN

This ale is a play on a British pale ale


using American hops.

Inspired by the constant hopping techniques used in Dogfish Head 60 and 90


Minute IPAs, Alex Grote concocted this
nice, drinkable pale ale that showcases a good balance between the malt
backbone and well-rounded hops flavor
and aroma.

Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters)


Estimated OG: 1.057
Estimated FG: 1.011
IBUs: 48
Estimated ABV: 6%

Estimated OG: 1.058


Estimated FG: 1.012
Estimated IBUs: 42
Estimated ABV: 6%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

5 lb (2.3 kg) pale malt (2-row)


5 lb (2.3 kg) Marris Otter
1 lb (453 g) Vienna malt
1 lb (453 g) Aromatic malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) caramel malt (120 SRM)
0.5 lbs (227 g) light brown sugar at 15
minutes

HOPS SCHEDULE

1 oz ( 28 g) Liberty at 60 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Liberty at 30 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Amarillo at 15 minutes
1 oz ( 28 g) Amarillo at 5 minutes
DIRECTIONS

Mash at 151F (66C) for 60 minutes.


Boil for 90 minutes, following the
hops schedule, to get 6 gallons of wort.
Ferment at 65F (18C). Dry hop for 23
days.
YEAST

Wyeast 1028 London Ale Yeast

MALT/GRAIN BILL

4.5 lb (2.4 kg) pale malt or 2-row


4.5 lb (2.4 kg) pilsner malt
1 lb (0.45 kg) aromatic malt
1 lb (0.45 kg) cara-pils/dextrine malt
1 lb (0.45 kg) caramel/crystal malt (60 SRM)

HOPS SCHEDULE

1 oz Centennial at 60 minutes
.25 oz Amarillo at 30 minutes
.25 oz Cascade at 25 minutes
.25 oz Amarillo at 20 minutes
.25 oz Cascade at 15 minutes
.25 oz Amarillo at 10 minutes
.25 oz Cascade at 5 minutes
.25 oz Amarillo at 0 minutes
.25 oz Cascade at 0 minutes
DIRECTIONS

Mash for 60 minutes at 152F (67C).


Boil for 75 minutes, following the hops
schedule. Ferment at 65F (18C) until
final gravity is reached.
YEAST

Wyeast 1056 American Ale

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 79

The Power of

PALE
Ale

:
s
e
v
i
t
c
e
p
s
r
e
P

s
Brewer

C
E
P
S
L
L
U
THE F
E
L
A
E
L
A
P
OF
THERES NO DENYING THAT the
farther west one travels in the United
States, the hoppier the local IPA will be. I
expected the same for pale ale, but when I
tracked down craft brewers from the western, midwestern, southern, and northeastern United States to speak to their
respective quadrants pale ale, I found that
wasnt always the case.

Close to Klsch
Here is the condensed spectrum of American pale ales according to Colby Chandler,
the executive director and specialty brewer
at Ballast Point Tasting Room & Kitchen in
San Diego, California: The pale ales made
in the United States get hoppieroften
from the addition of nouveau hopsand
drier as you head west. They lose some of
the malt profile thats more apparent in English-style pale ales and take on the profiles
of traditional German pale ales, inspired by
crisp, refreshing Klsch ales.
For Ballast Point, pale ale was a bridge beer
from light macro lagers to beer thats not too

80 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

bitter and still incredibly flavorful, Chandler


explains. The brewery came out of the gate
with its original Pale Ale that uses American
and Munich malts and German hops. This
beer is hopped like a lager and fermented
like an ale to create a smooth, bright taste
that has just a hint of fruit and spice.
A later addition to Ballast Points beer
lineup was the Grunion Pale Ale, an International Pale Ale brewed with two modern
American hops varieties, Mosaic and Calypso. Much like its Klsch-style sister, this pale
ale has a light grain bill of Marris Otter and
Carapils malt. Its hops aroma and flavor are
that of cantaloupe and green melon.
Were getting to the point where
regular single pale ales are starting to
taste more like IPAstheyre losing the
malt base and boosting the hops aroma,
says Chandler. The pale ales in the West,
and especially in the San Diego area, are
bright with strong hops aroma imparted
from the late addition of hops into the kettle or into the fermentor for dry hopping
post-fermentation.

Gushing With Hops


Generally speaking, the pale ales on the
West Coast are very hoppy and dry and the
pale ales on the East Coast are more Brit-

PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

Are pale ale differences a regional thing or an old-school/


new-school thing? Four craft brewers share their thoughts
on todays pale ales By Emily Hutto

TRUM
ish [and malty] in style, says Chris Boggess, the head brewer at 3 Floyds Brewing
Co. in Munster, Indiana. Nowadays,
these style differences are getting more
blurred with most of the new breweries
making huge hoppy beers, he continues.
At 3 Floyds we like really hoppy beer
balanced with some malt character.
Enter Zombie Dust, the 3 Floyds pale
ale done justice by its package description: This intensely hopped and gushing
undead pale ale will be ones only respite
after the zombie apocalypse.
Zombie Dust is brewed with European
malts and hops from Germany and the
Yakima Valley. It weighs in at 50 IBUs and
6.2 percent ABV. A beer like Zombie Dust
would have been one of the hoppier IPAs
on the market back in the mid 90s when
I started brewing, says Boggess. [Today],
some pale ales are just as hoppy as IPAs.

The Everlasting Patio Beer


Will Golden, the head brewer at Austin
Beerworks in Texas, thinks that craft
breweries are creating pale ale for the
regions in which they live. In Texas, its all
about drinkability. Most of the pale ales
in Texas are going to be extra dry with less
bitterness. There is much more emphasis

on the aroma and dry hops, he says.


Most recently, Golden has been experimenting brewing beers with no bittering
hops at all. It makes that drinkability just
a little bit higher, he explains.
Golden was a professional brewer in
Maryland (at Frederick Brewing before it
became Flying Dog Brewery and then at
Flying Dog before running the Barley &
Hops brewpub) before landing at Austin
Beerworks. He confidently says that the
pale ales brewed in the South are sessionable and much lighter on hops bitterness

than anywhere else in the country. In the


South, he explains, beers are often brewed
to counteract the sweltering heat.
When I brewed in Maryland, we went
heavy on the malt in pale ales, and often
included crystal malt. That required more
bitterness to make up for that caramel
and residual body, says Golden. Theres
an amber, almost caramel color to a lot of
the pale ales in the East, while pale ales
from the West Coast tend to be pale in
color and, of course, much more bitter in
every way.
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 81

The Power of

PALE
Ale

Five on Five

Pale ale is a popular beer style among brewers, some of whom couldnt just pick one favorite. Here
are five craft brewers on more than five pale ales.
Compiled by Emily Hutto

Jeff ONeil

Brewmaster at Peekskill Brewery, Peekskill, New York


I really love Victory Headwaters, and Ballast Point Brewings Grunion is great, too. It won the gold medal (to our
NYPAs silver) at the 2014 Great American Beer Festival.

Will Golden

Head Brewer at Austin Beerworks, Austin, Texas


The first pale ale I had was Anchor Liberty Ale. It
holds a special place in my heart. Id never had anything like it before, and I was blown away. It started
my downward spiral toward pale ales and IPAs.

Bryan Greenhagen

Founder of Mystic Brewery, Chelsea, Massachusetts


Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Perfect balance makes this beer
irresistibly drinkable while being refreshing and invigorating. It is a great American example of a style-defining
beer that has stood the test of time and is now both legendary and accessible. There are very exciting new pale
ales out there resulting from the explosion in aromatic
hops varieties, but few have the breadth of achievement
embodied in a glass of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

Bob Sylvester

Founder & Brewmaster at Saint Somewhere Brewing


Company, Tarpon Springs, Florida
There would be no American pale ale without Sierra
Nevada. Its still my favorite, and its a great introduction
to American hops. For English pale ales available in
the United States, Id have to say Fullers London Pride.
Its much different from Sierra Nevada, with a richer
malt character. The hops character is there, grassy and
woody, but its in balance with the caramel maltiness.
Its tough to beat one of the standard bearers.

Brian Ross

Quality Assurance Specialist at Alaskan Brewing Co.,


Juneau, Alaska
A great pale ale that sticks out in my mind is the Firestone Walker Pale 31. I think it is just exemplary of the
stylea really full-flavored pale with everything in the
right place. Its one of the rare beers that you really cant
find any fault in, where you taste it and think, There is
just no way this beer could be any better. It is so well
composed, with a wonderful whole-cone herbal note
and remarkable hops brightness, as well as an extremely pleasant floral quality. Its a very impressive and
timeless beer and one of my favorite pales.

82 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Brewers Perspectives, contd

Old School, Newer School


I dont know that Id say that theres a
palpable regional take on pale ale, says
Jeff ONeil, the brewmaster at Peekskill
Brewery in New York.I would say
instead that theres a movement toward
really expressive hoppy beers that arent
necessarily bitter, especially among newer breweries without long-established
flagships. He adds, But I dont think I
can say its a regional phenomenon.
Peekskill brews the Amazeballs pale
ale, a single-hops pale ale hopped
with Galaxy hops from Australia. This
American pale ale is extra dry, both
from its light grain bill and the use of
clean American ale yeast.
Amazeballs is vastly different from
the Captain Lawrence Brewing Co.s
Freshchester Pale Ale (a citrusy, piney
pale ale with a noticeable bitterness
and a strong malt backbone for balance) brewed just down the road from
Peekskill in Elmsford, says ONeil. Its
very differentId say more traditionalfrom what were doing with beers
such as Amazeballs.
ONeil echoes the other brewers
sentiments that there are two dominant stylistic profiles of pale ale in the
United States: dry and aromatically
hoppy; and malty and hops flavorforward. He doesnt qualify these two
schools of pale ale as regional differences, though. Id say that theres that
older-school approach in the style of
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (an amazing
beer!) and a twenty-first-century style
thats only been made possible by the
amazing aroma hops that have been
bred and become available lately.

BEYOND
BITTER:
DEFINING IMPERIAL PALE ALE
Imperial pale ale is a derivative style, one that could easily be defined
less by what it is than what it isnt. But in the liquid arts, as in those visual,
incredible beauty is to be found in the negative spaces.
By Dave Carpenter

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 83

The Power of

PALE
Ale

THERE WAS A TIME, not so long ago,


when one could go all the way from
American pale ale (APA) to India pale
ale (IPA) without running across a single
other beer style. Youd leave APA at about
5 percent ABV, set the cruise, and let the
specific gravity points fly by. By the time
you hit IPA at 6 or 7 percent, the landscape had lost some of its malty texture,
but dense, expansive lupulin forests more
than compensated the senses.
Those days are long gone. APA and
IPA are still there, of course, and better
than ever, but where once there were vast
open spaces in between, now styles blend
together into an endless sea of pale ales.
Breweries variously refer to this sub-Burton sprawl as double pale ale, imperial
pale ale, strong pale ale, extra pale ale,
or any number of other vaguely defined
terms. As craft brewers continue to slip
the surly bonds of stylistic constraint, a
whole new class of pale ale has emerged.

What Is Imperial Pale Ale?


Neither the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) nor the Great American Beer
Festival (GABF) guidelines have much to
say on the matter of imperial pale ale. The
GABF offers a starting point in American
Strong Pale Ale category:
American Strong Pale Ales are deep
golden to copper Low caramel
malt aroma is allowable. Fruityester aroma should be moderate to
strong. Hops aroma is high, exhibiting floral, fruity, citrus-like, piney,
resinous, or sulfur-like Americanvariety hops characters. Low-level
maltiness may include low caramel

malt character. Hops flavor is high,


exhibiting floral, fruity, citrus-like,
piney, resinous, or sulfur-like
American-variety hops flavors. Hops
bitterness is high. Fruity-ester flavor
is moderate to strong.
The description toes a predictable line
between classic APA and IPA, but it
doesnt really tell us anything we couldnt
reasonably deduce from the name of
the category. The styles numerics are,
however, more illustrative. Take a look at
the original gravity, alcohol by volume,
and bitterness ranges (Table 1) that the
guidelines suggest for APA, American
strong pale ale, and American IPA.
Reflecting upon the numbers, we see
that American strong pale ale isnt so
much a style description as it is a placeholder to close the gap between APA and
IPA (although a 5.5 percent ABV pale ale
would appear to have no home). We cant
really infer a stylistic definition other than
through a kind of yeah, but formulation.
Perhaps more illustrative of the styles
elusive nature is that both AleSmith (San
Diego, California) IPA (7.25 percent ABV,
73 IBU) and Bear Republic (Cloverdale,
California) Racer 5 (7.5 percent ABV,
75 IBU) have medaled in the American
Strong Pale Ale category at GABF. These
are both phenomenal beers, of course,
but they could just as easily have won as
American IPAs. And, in fact, they have.
So while American strong pale ale offers
a much-needed venue in which to judge
beers that might otherwise fall between
the stylistic cracks, it doesnt necessarily
define a genre. In search of more information, I did the only thing one could

reasonably be expected to do. I headed out


to sample some beer.

Voluminously Hopped
The drive along Colorado Highway 119
from Boulder to Longmont, Colorado,
features high-tech companies, rolling
pastoral farmland, and an unnervingly
large number of spandex-wrapped cyclists.
Upon reaching Longmont, the first thing
you encounter is a seventy-year-old silo
that has been transformed into a 40-foot
tall can of Dales Pale Ale, a sure sign that
youve reached the home of Oskar Blues
Brewery, which has crammed big, bold
beers into little aluminum cans for more
than a decade.
Dales Pale Ale is Oskar Bluess flagship
product and the first major craft beer to be
sold in cans. Widely distributed from coast
to coast, Dales is the best-selling pale ale
in the Centennial State. But, true to Oskar
Bluess go-big-or-go-home approach, this
beer refuses to remain within the boundaries of the classic APA. Billed as a huge
voluminously hopped mutha of a pale ale,
Dales typifies a style-bending approach
that moves a beer out of one category without fully depositing it into the next.
Weve tried entering Dales into competitions in different categories, says Oskar
Blues Colorado Head Brewer Tim Matthews, but its a hard beer to categorize. At 6.5 percent ABV and 65
IBUs, its stylistically closer to
IPA than APA, but numbers
dont tell the whole story.
Dales has classic
American pale ale qualities
that are out of place in an
IPA. While its definitely

Where once there were vast open spaces in between APA


and IPA, now styles blend together into an endless sea of
pale ales. Breweries variously refer to this sub-Burton sprawl
as double pale ale, imperial pale ale, strong pale ale, extra
pale ale, or any number of other vaguely defined terms.
84 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

MAKE IT

Rye Must You


Label Me?
ALL-GRAIN

Silver Jubilee
Brent Cordle has a wonderfully verbose
job title. As the Barrel Aging, Cellar
Series, and Pilot System Manager for
Odell Brewing Company in Fort Collins,
Colorado, Brent oversees Odells extensive barrel-aging program and helms
the five-barrel pilot system from which
the brewerys 5 Barrel Pale Ale takes its
name.
And Odell knows a thing or two
about pale ale. Their 5 Barrel has thrice
medaled at the Great American Beer
Festival, and Odell IPA took home gold
in 2007. The brewery also releases St. Lupulin every summer, a 6.5 percent ABV,

OG: 1.062
FG: 1.014
IBUs: 50
ABV: 6.3%
MALT/GRAIN BILL

9 lb (4 kg) pale malt


1.5 lb (680 g) rye malt
1 lb (454 g) flaked rye
1 lb (454 g) Simpsons Caramalt (35 SRM)
6 oz (170 g) Simpsons Extra Dark Crystal
(160 SRM)
0.5 lb (227 g) rice hulls (optional)
HOPS SCHEDULE

1 oz (28 g) Centennial at 60 minutes


1 oz(28 g)Centennial at 5 minutes
1 oz(28 g)Chinook at 5 minutes
1 oz(28 g)Centennial at dry hop 7 days
0.5 oz(14 g)Chinook at dry hop 7 days
0.5 oz(14 g)Simcoe at dry hop 7 days
DIRECTIONS

Mash for 60 minutes at 152F (67C),


sparge, and boil for 60 minutes, following
the hops schedule. Chill, transfer to the
fermentor, and pitch yeast. Ferment at
65F (18C) for 1014 days or until final
gravity is reached, then rack to secondary
and add dry hops. Package in bottles or
kegs after 7 days of dry hopping.
YEAST

White Labs WLP001 California Ale or


Wyeast 1056 American Ale or Safale US-05

PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

a hops-forward beer, all of those pine,


citrus, resin, and berry aromatics come
in on the hot side, so it doesnt have
quite the same character youd find in
a dry-hopped IPA. Munich and crystal
malts lend a rich malt complexity that
contrasts with many IPAs, especially
West Coast IPAs, which tend to focus
mostly on pale malt.
Tims observations bring us to an important distinction that helps define this
category more than any set of numbers
can: An imperial pale ale showcases a bolder
hops profile than standard APA but retains
the APAs complex malt backbone. Its this
substantial malt bill that keeps Dales 65
IBUs from overwhelming the palate.

Heftier than your typical American pale


ale, but not quite claiming IPA status, this
rye imperial pale ale features the sticky,
resinous flavor of Chinook hops, plus
piney Simcoe and citrusy Centennial in
the finish. If rye tends to give you stuck
mashes, include the optional rice hulls to
keep the wort flowing.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 85

The Power of

PALE
Ale

TABLE 1

GABF Guidelines
for Pale Ales
OG
ABV
Bitterness

Hill Farmstead
Brewery Abner
Double Pale Ale
After reading Jeff Baker
of the The Farmhouse
Grills writing in the
Burlington Free Press on
the need for a Vermont-style IPA, were
on board for a language
around pales that expands beyond the overly
reductive East Coast
is malty, West Coast is
hoppy binary. Abner
is a strong argument for
that broader lexicon,
taking the soft mouthfeel, radiant citrus notes,
and hazy golden body
of Vermont DIPAs, yet
eschewing the need for
IPA classification.
Half Acre Brewing
Double Daisy Cutter
Pale Ale
This imperial version
of Half Acres Daisy
Cutter pale ale retains
the grapefruit-like citrus
notes of its namesake
with a beefed up malt
backbone and a more
accessible bitterness
level compared to the
hops bombs in the
(admittedly almost
overlapping) double IPA
category.

86 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

American
Pale Ale

American
Strong Pale Ale

American
IPA

1.0441.050
4.45.4%
3050 IBU

1.0501.060
5.66.3%
4050 IBU

1.0601.075
6.37.6%
5070 IBU

46 IBU hops fest it deems an extra pale


ale. In contrast to Dales Pale Ale, much of
St. Lupulins healthy hops load is infused
into the brew post-boil. When I met up
with Brent in the Odell taproom, I had
originally planned to discuss St. Lupulin,
but, as luck would have it, something even
more special was in store.
The brewery had just released Silver,
a collaboration brew with Kansas City
based Boulevard Brewing to celebrate the
two breweries twenty-fifth anniversaries
(Odell and Boulevard opened within 24
hours of one another in 1989). Available
on draft in Odells eleven-state distribution
footprint and in 750 milliliter bottles in
the twenty-nine states to which Boulevard
distributes, Silver echoes Tim Matthewss
assertion that malt-hops balance is a
distinguishing feature of imperial pale ale.
At 7.3 percent ABV and 40 IBUs, Silver is
well beyond pale ale territory, but this is
definitely no IPA.
We were aiming for a kind of cross
between a pale ale and a strong ESB, says
Brent. Odell strives for big aromas and a
huge nose. That aroma is the first thing
you experience when you bring a beer
to your mouth. It makes you want more
before you even take that first sip.
In Silvers case, its a decidedly fruity, almost strawberry-candy-like burst of aroma
hops. Its a big beer, but with only 40 balancing IBUs, it doesnt feature the punchyou-in-the-face bitterness so common with
IPAs. And Silvers pale bronze hue is a
visual prelude to the serious malt that lies
underneath all of the hoppy goodness.
Our customers have an unquenchable
thirst for hops, but they dont always want
the bitterness that accompanies them,

Brent notes. Thats why Silver and St.


Lupulin dont break 50 IBUs even though
they have an incredible hops nose.
For comparison, 5 Barrel, a classic
English-style pale ale features 36 IBUs,
while Odell IPA boasts 70. And in this
context, Silvers modest 40 IBUs bring us
to another important quality of this category: Imperial pale ale delivers hops without
fatiguing the palate.

So, What Is Imperial Pale


Ale, Really?
Having discussed this elusive style with
brewers who produce world-class pale
ales and IPAs, I think the style is best
expressed not in specific gravity units or
international bittering units, but rather
more holistically:
Imperial pale ale is a pale ale whose hops
aroma, hops flavor, and alcoholic strength
have more in common with IPA than pale
ale, but whose malt profile and overall drinkability have more in common with pale ale
than IPA.
As brewers continue to push boundaries,
its likely that even more subtle distinctions will crop up to differentiate different
sub-styles, even among imperial pale ales.
Think of the possibilities: Imperial Belgian
pale ale, imperial black pale ale, and
imperial barrel-aged pale ale all seem likely
candidates for experimentation.
Imperial pale ale might frustrate those
who insist on keeping things in nice, neat,
little categories. But for those willing to
accept a little ambiguity, its a great reason
to just sit back and enjoy the ride.

PHOTO: JAMIE BOGNER

Editors
Picks:
Imperial
Pale Ales

n
o
i
t
i
d
E
d
e
Limit eer &
Craft Bng Merch
Brewi
w at
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On sale nora
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shop.be

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 87

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Tasted

Pale ales led the American craft-beer revolution through the 80s and 90s, but a
new generation of brewers has firmly planted their own creative stamp on the
style. Join us as our blind-tasting panel tastes through the best commercially
available American Pale Ales and English Pale Ales in the United States.
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 89

| AMERICAN PALE ALES |


INSIDE CB&B

How We
Taste & Test
Reviewing beer may sound like a
dream job, but our tasting and review panel takes the role seriously.
Composed entirely of Beer Judge
Certification Program (BJCP) judges who have all studied, trained,
and been tested on their ability to
discern characteristics in beer, our
panel is independent and doesnt
include any CB&B editors or staff.
The panel tastes all beer blindly
they do not know what brands
and beers they are tasting until the
tasting is complete.
Our goal is to inform you about
the strengths and weaknesses
of these beers as well as their relative differences (not everyone
has the same taste in beer, so
accurate descriptors are more
valuable than straight numerical
values). The quotes you see
are compiled from the review
panels score sheets to give you a
well-rounded picture of the beer.
As our reviewers judge, they
score based on the standard
BJCP components: Aroma (max
12 points), Appearance (max 3
points), Flavor (max 20 points),
Mouthfeel (max 5 points),
and Overall Impression (max
10 points). Weve listed these
individual component scores,
and the bottom-line number is
derived from adding then doubling these component scores to
produce a rating on a 100-point
scale. Note that weve rounded
the printed component scores to
the nearest whole number, so the
math wont necessarily add up.
Our judges use the following
scale in valuing scores:
95100 Extraordinary
World-class beers of superlative
character and flawless execution
9094 Exceptional
Distinguished beers with special
character, style, and flavor
8589 Very good
Well-crafted beers with noteworthy flavor and style
8084 Good
Solid, quality, enjoyable beers
7579 Above Average
Drinkable and satisfactory beers
with minor flaws or style deviations
5074 Not recommended
Wed like for you to keep one
thing in mind as you read these
reviewsyour perception of a
beer is more important than
that of our review panel or editorial staff, and reading reviews
in a magazine (or on the Web
or in a book) is no substitute for
trying the beer yourself.

90 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

TOP

TOP

RATED

RATED

EDITORS

PICK

3 Floyds
Alpha King

3 Floyds
Yum Yum

3 Floyds
Zombie Dust

| ABV: 6.66% | IBU: 68 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 6.2% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


A bold yet balanced American Pale
Ale with slight caramel sweetness and
aggressive citrus hoppiness. This is our
flagship beer.

What the brewer says


Welcome to flavor country. This pale
ale has just the right malt backbone
to support an explosive juicy hops
profile derived from a new blend of
proprietary hops.

What the brewer says


This intensely hopped and gushing
undead Pale Ale will be ones only
respite after the zombie apocalypse.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Grapefruit rind and citrus
peel up front, very juicy with a nice
subtle caramel malt sweetness that
pairs nicely. Dry piney notes are balanced by citrus and tropical fruit hops
with prominent mango and lemon-zest
notes.
Flavor: Grapefruit and citrus hops
notes pair well with a subtle malt
sweetness. Very balanced with both
sweet and bitter flavors shining
through. A juicy hops flavor with an
intriguingly crisp malt bill that finishes
slightly sweet. It may get a little sweet
for the style, but the piney and resinous
hops flavors balance the fruit notes
while the malt backbone supports the
hops flavors.
Overall: A very nice, classic APA with
a touch more sweetness than most that
works to pull the beer together. The
malt backbone adds depth and support
for the array of hops flavors without
overshadowing themits a creative
take on the style.

What our panel thought


Aroma: An intense candy sweetness
that is utterly unique and new to my beer
experienceslike Starburst candy on
the nose or like the sweetened milk left
after eating a bowl of sweet cereal. Its
a crazy, unique hops aroma that smells
like candy or bubblegum and hops, or
even more accurately candied hops.
Flavor: The juicy hops character
carries through the beer from the start
to finish with lemon, orange, grapefruit,
and an almost bubblegum sweetness.
The malt body is bright with a clean,
crisp finish. Wild candy sweetness and
flavors range from citrus, to banana, to
a butter rum hard candy with a touch of
bitterness to balance the sweetness.
Overall: One of the most uniquely flavored beers that Ive tried, without the
addition of any adjunct or specialty ingredientsthis beer broadens the hops
flavor lexicon. I love being surprised by
beers, and this one surprised me in the
best way. Seek this one out.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 10

92

99

What our panel thought


Aroma: Some wonderful fruit notes
of blackberry, peach, fresh blueberry,
mango, and pineapple balanced
against light onion notes and an almost
white-wine character. Very resinous,
catty, and fruity offset with a dank and
grassy earth character.
Flavor: Hops present complex fruit
notes with a little more citrus character.
Juicy hops flavors up front, reminiscent
of grapefruit and pine, along with
tropical fruit notes, faint onion notes,
and an appropriate level of bitterness.
Finishes dry and clean.
Overall: A very creative beer with
a unique, beautiful, and delicious
hops profile. Dry, balanced base with
backbone to support (but not crowd)
the hops. Gorgeous hops profile that
showcases both piney, resinous, dank
flavors with classic American citrus
notes and tropical fruit hops flavors,
and a very clean fermentation profile
to boot. Buy by the caseits an
excellent example of the style.
AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 10

99

Alaskan
AleSmith X
Bear
Brewing
Extra Pale Ale Republic
Freeride APA
Grand-Am

Boulder Beer
Hoopla
Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.3% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.25% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 6% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.7% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


Alaskan Freeride APA features a lush,
green, almost tropical hops aroma
paired with the unique taste combination of Cascade, Citra, and Centennial
hops, making it both full in flavor and
crisply thirst-quenching.

What the brewer says


Fresh American hops are abundant but
carefully balanced by a light, crisp body
and smooth bitterness. Notes of citrus
and pine combine with a delicate malt
sweetness to create a flavorful drinking
experience.

What the brewer says


Grand-Am is a sessionable yet assertive American Pale Ale that balances
both classic and new American hops
varieties with a distinct malt backbone.

What the brewer says


A collaboration among Boulder Beer
brewers and Kyle Hollingsworth, keyboardist of The String Cheese Incident,
Hoopla Pale Ale is dry hopped with
generous amounts of Glacier hops for a
fruity, floral hops aroma and flavor.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Presents a hops character
thats mostly floral with moderate
esters, citrus fruit aromas with some
stone fruit, and pine hops in the
background. Sweet caramel buttery
notes in the malt. Hops aroma drops
fairly quickly.
Flavor: Earthy, grassy hops flavor
with a touch of spicy. Bitterness is here
but not pronounced. Reasonable malt
backing provides medium sweetness
against the prominent fruity hops profile. Finishes dry with a nice bitterness.
Peach and orange hops flavor is more
subdued than the aroma promises.
Overall: A nice example of a less
hops-centric take on the style. Tasty
beer, easy drinking, and not too
assertive. Nicely done representation of
the stylebalance is appropriate as is
lingering bitterness. Very nice, on the
sweeter/maltier end of the American
pale-ale spectrum.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Subtle cracker malt aromas
and clean yeast fruit esters blend with
the forward floral/citrus hops aroma.
Hops candy and sweet resin play
against a spicy hops aroma with hints
of apricot and lemon hops.
Flavor: Light malt flavor lends a dry,
crisp finish. Strong carbonation really
makes the clean and well-defined hops
flavor pop out! Assertive hops flavor is
spicy with some grassy-citrus notes and
a bitterness that lingers just enough.
Very light, spritzy body.
Overall: Crisp, clean, light, and refreshingjust what I want after work.
A great take on the style with plenty of
character all around, but easy to enjoy
more than one glass. Pleasant example
of stylevery easy to drink. A very
light-bodied APA with an effervescent
character where the hops dominate and
the straightforward malt is only there
to support.

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

87

94

What our panel thought


Aroma: Resiny, juicy hops notes with
pine and lemon/grapefruit/orange citrus
at the forefront and mild biscuit toasty
notes from the malt.
Flavor: Citrus and pine hops flavors
dominate with nearly no malt or yeast
character. It leans more toward bitter,
both in flavor and finish, than some
of the others weve tasted. The hops
grapefruit sweetness is evened out with
a touch of grapefruit bitterness and
lemon notes that add depth. The finish is
refreshing and dry.
Overall: A classic version of an APA
with entertaining hops complexity. Leans
toward the bitter side, but still drinkablevery tasty and worth seeking out.
This beer was very refreshing, juicy, and
sweet. Nice showcase of the hops and a
great example of the style. A solid beer.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

93

What our panel thought


Aroma: Moderate hops aroma is restrained with mild citrus hopsorange
and grapefruitand light caramel,
biscuit, and toast notes. Juicy citrus
peel with notes of grapefruit, lemon
zest, and tangerine. Hops dominate.
Flavor: A moderate hops bitterness,
balanced by a decent malt backbone
and slight mineral character. Light
on the body, and the juicy orange and
bitter grapefruit hops character carries
through to a dry and crisp finish.
Balanced and just slightly bitter but
doesnt linger long in the finish.
Overall: It doesnt take many risks, but
this pale ale showcases the hops and
finishes slightly juicy and sweet, which
leads to the next sip. While not quite
as exciting as other examples, this is a
well-executed APA with an accessible
hops profile and just the right amount of
bitternessa great APA that is worth
seeking out.
AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

87

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 91

| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Boulevard
Pale Ale

Deschutes
Brewery
Mirror Pond

Drakes 1500

Epic Brewing
Element 29
Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 48 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


Boulevard Pale Ale is a smooth,
fruity, well-balanced beer. A variety of
caramel malts impart a rich flavor and
amber color, while liberal use of whole
hops adds zest and aroma.

What the brewer says


Cascade hops and more Cascade hops
give this tawny-colored ale delicious
hops-forward aroma and flavor. Pale
malt allows the hops to linger, not
overpower.

What the brewer says


A hops-forward American Pale Ale.
Loads of Simcoe and Amarillo hops
are blended in the fermentor just after
fermentation has finished to impart a
huge aroma of pine and juicy citrus.

What the brewer says


This hops-forward APA highlights Amarillo hops sweet, ripe citrus aroma and
flavor reminiscent of Valencia oranges
and tangerines. It has a medium body
with a malt character ranging from
light crust to mild graham cracker.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Medium-high notes of peach
marmalade with light pineapple and
bread notes way in the background.
Yeasty fruit aromas blend with the
hops. Slight malt sweetness on the
nose accentuates hops fruit notes of
strawberry, cherry, mango, and peach.
Flavor: Big hops flavor up front.
Hops bitterness and malt sweetness
are well-balanced, and stone fruit
abounds. Malty hit with just a touch
of tart. Bitterness is appropriate and
well-balanced. Low astringency, finish
is quick and inviting. Moderate hops
flavor and a big ester punch.
Overall: Yum. Its light on the late
hops character that defines more
contemporary APAs, but its very
well-balanced with pleasing notes of
strawberry, mango, and other fruits
(even a touch of olives). Phenolic finish
slightly distracting.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Classic Northwest hops
citrus nose with notes of sweet orange
juice and a touch of resin. Light malt
sweetness with notes of honey (like
Bit-o-Honey candy), but not overpowering. Fruity yeast esters hint at apple,
strawberry, and pear. Ester aromas are
strongthe fermentation character is
almost stronger than the hops aroma.
Flavor: Medium body for an APA, medium to high carb. Honey character and
citrus tartness return in the aftertaste.
Reasonable bitterness but could use a
bit more hops flavor. Balance is a bit
on the malt sweet side, but the lack of
bitter is made up in hops flavor.
Overall: Predominant orange creamsicle character is interesting. Its a more
malt-focused pale ale that wanders
a bit into winter warmer territory
and borders on English in terms of
yeast character. Theres enough malt
complexity and richness here to back
up a bolder showcase of hops.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Strong hops in the nose
grassy and earthy with sweet grapefruit
and citrus notes and an almost vanilla
undertone. A very unique and wonderful
aroma that persiststhe hops almost
jump out of the glass. Slight cattiness
to add complexity, but subtle.
Flavor: The hops are present and
showcased but not overpowering. Its a
clean pale that allows the hops flavor to
dominate and shine with overripe citrus
(mostly orange) and very nice resiny,
piney hops notes. Finishes slightly dry
with a lingering grapefruit sweetness
and slight bitterness.
Overall: An amazing beer thats a
master course in hops presentation.
The hops are expertly showcased using
a perfectly crafted base beer thats
bitter, dry, and yet remains balanced
all characteristics that accentuate the
hops and keep the beer very drinkable.
This beer showcases how APAs can be
a great canvas for hops.

What our panel thought


Aroma: A bit muddled in the nose with
some mercaptan/sulfur that fades as it
warms. Medium fruity hops aroma with
slight breadiness and some melanoidin
notes. Pear or peach esters. Moderate
hops nose with a bit of pine needle and
earthy weight.
Flavor: Very nice malt/bitter balance.
Toasty crust with a touch of brown
sugar and medium-high hops flavors
of grass and flowers, lingering into the
finish. Sweeter malt backbone provides
ample room for hops to play. Hops
bitterness is clean and restrained. Hint
of oxidation tints the flavor.
Overall: A tasty example of the style.
Sulfurs are distracting (maybe a young
bottle?), so let it breathe a bit. Lower
carbonation lends a smooth mouthfeel,
accentuating malt. A pretty-solid
beerhops character is nicely blended
with malt backbone. This would go well
with a roast beef dinner.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 9
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

92 |

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CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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97

82

Evil Twin
Hipster Ale

Firestone
Walker
Pale 31

Flying Dog
Pale Ale

Fort Collins
Brewery 1020
Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 4.9% | IBU: 38 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.3% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


Perhaps you heard of a beer-movement that tributes favorite hipster
neighborhoods across the globe. If you
feel excluded because youre hip but
your city isnt, this hip-without-border
pale ale is an homage to you

What the brewer says


Floral and citrus hops aromas greet
the nose with undertones of lightly
toasted malt. Crisp pale and crystal
malts offer a hint of sweetness. Subtle
hops bitterness offers a refreshing finish.

What the brewer says


The alpha of the pack, Flying Dog
Pale Ale complements a wide range of
foods. Flavor notes: Grassy, citrus, and
slight perfume hops aromas with subtly
sweet malt body.

What our panel thought


Aroma: A muddled citrus (orange
and grapefruit) character with signs of
agemetallic, floral, and earthy. Some
nice pine and resin notes as well, but
no malt or yeast character.
Flavor: Slighty sweet hops citrus notes
contrast with a strong bitterness (for a
pale ale) that lingers through the finish
and verges on IPA bitterness without
the sweetness for balance. Appears to
have some age on it, so flavors may be
more subdued. All hops all the time
bitter hops flavor lingers in the finish.
Overall: The hops in this beer are
assertive and bitter for a pale ale.
Enjoyable and tasty but the bitterness
overtakes the subtle character of a
pale ale. Has all the makings of a great
APA in the hops profile, but the base
beer lacks enough malt sweetness and
balance to make it work. Needs the bitterness dialed back a bunch, especially
in the finish.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Very mild nose with mediumintensity hops aroma but no prevailing
character. Peach and strawberry contrast
with forest aromaswoody hops with
some flowers in the undergrowth.
Sweet malt notes of caramel or biscuit
balance notable esters.
Flavor: The fruity, estery character
dominates the flavor. Pilsner malt
comes through over time. Its moderately
hoppy and sweet with strong peach,
apricot, and strawberry character. First
taste is of stone fruit and refreshing
light malt toast. Low bitterness and
delicate toast work well.
Overall: Its missing the typical burst
of hops, but is very drinkable and
pleasantly sweet and fruity throughout.
This beer would go great with a holiday
mealenough body to stand up to
food and enough sweetness to balance
other flavors. Its complex but not
overwhelming in hops character, almost
delicate, yet easy to love.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Intense tropical fruit notes
with medium cattiness over musky and
floral notes that complement the other
hops flavors. Toast and biscuit malt
character in the back with a hint of
grassiness.
Flavor: The intense citrus and tropical
fruit flavor shine, while the malt does
enough to keep it interesting and balanced. Similar flavors as displayed in
the aroma. Bitterness is spot on. Juicy
hops flavors come through as resiny,
dank, and a touch musty. Incredibly
balanced and finishes clean, making it
extremely drinkable.
Overall: A fine pale ale that showcases
the hops very well while still providing
a malt counterweight to keep the beer
drinkable and engaging. A very prototypical pale thats put together well. Its
a great APA with tons of hops complexity beyond the typical citrusy varieties
common to most APAs. Very drinkable
and extremely well-executed.

What the brewer says


1020 Pale Ale has a citrus aroma with
underlying tones of pine and grapefruit
zest that inhabit the flavor, while a
smooth, light body and crisp, clean
bitterness from Magnum, Cascade
and Chinook hops leave your palate
refreshed and liberated.

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 15
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 8

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 9

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91

What our panel thought


Aroma: Mineral malt and strong
bready yeast aromas at the forefront
with a touch of peppery spice and
esters of pear and peach. Hops are less
pronounced than some examples and
yield a fairly subdued nose overall.
Flavor: A straightforward pale malt
bill with strong bitterness and mellow
citrus hops notes. Hops flavors tend
toward grassy, with a bit of grapefruit
accentuating the bitterness. Very
light bread flavors, some sweet esters
detract from crisp finish.
Overall: Delightfully restrained and
drinkable beer on the extra pale end
of the category. Hops character is unusual for pale ale, but fun, clean, and
enjoyable. Theres more sweetness in
the aftertaste than the color indicates.
Crisp bitterness keeps me coming back
for another sip.
AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 3
OVERALL: 10

89

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| 93

| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Founders
Pale Ale

Fremont
Universale
Pale

Goose Island Grand Teton


312 Urban
Sweetgrass
Pale Ale
APA

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.6% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 6% | IBU: 60 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


A testament to Cascade hops in a
bottle, this medium-bodied pale ale has
a citrus flavor and a floral hops aroma
due to the aggressive addition of hops
during fermentation. Youll notice a
slight malty sweetness with a balanced
hops finish.

What the brewer says


Universale Pale Ale offers a distinctive
Northwest twist on the classic pale ale,
using a select blend of pale roasted
malt and Old World malts balanced with
classic Northwest hops to achieve a
beer of rich malt flavor and hops spice.

What the brewer says


We are from the city that invented the
skyscraper. We constructed our Urban
Pale Ale on a balanced malt backbone,
so the citrus hops aroma and crisp
flavor can stand tall.

What the brewer says


Sweetgrass APA is a Pale Ale of
distinction! 2009 Great American Beer
Festival Gold Medal winner in the American Pale Ale category, this crisp and
fragrant beer is hopped and dry hopped
for a citrusy, resinous spiciness.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Hops are not assertive
whats there smells floral, like springtime. Notes of red apple and grass
with a touch of telephone pole resin.
Moderate esters, mild hops, and light,
toasty, biscuity malt notes.
Flavor: Clean malt barely balanced
with crisp hops bitterness. Clean fermentation produces light fruit esters,
and malt is bready and fairly complex
for style. Finishes fresh and inviting
pleasantly mild hops flavor and a clean
bitter finish that leans a bit toward the
British style.
Overall: Enjoyable if somewhat
malt-focused pale ale. Hops aroma
could use a bump to bring it to the level
of its contemporaries. Pretty well-balanced except for the odd apple ester.
It could benefit from more hops, and
specific American-style hops, to kick up
a more inviting aroma. Very drinkable.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Enjoyable lemon and citrus
hops plus a light malt sweetness. The
hops aroma is a bit restrained, but
piney, floral, and grapefruit-rind notes
come through.
Flavor: A slightly muted pale, with
nice malt complexity and interesting hops flavors, but everything is
restrained. Ripe, juicy grapefruit and
pine hops notes with a bit of musk and
dankness. Missing some body, causing
the hops bitterness to come off slightly
astringent. Completely balanced with
the bitterness trailing off immediately.
Overall: A very well-put-together pale
ale. The sweet citrus character came
through nicely, and the finish was
greatexcellent flavor and pleasantly
crisp. Extremely drinkable with the only
gripe being just a touch of body thinness. The well-crafted base beer uses
its dry finish and balance to accentuate
the ripe, juicy hops flavors.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Honey and navel-orange notes
up front with a low bready malt aroma.
Sweet, like the initial mash-ingrainy
with notes of water crackers and toast
but a low hops aroma. Big melanoidin
malt aromajust like a bock.
Flavor: Super rich malt character
with just enough bitterness to balance.
Sweet and sunny with enough hops to
keep the rich malt from being cloying.
Nicely balanced APA with strong fruity
esters. Low-in-the-mix hops offer some
floral and bitter notes despite being
buried under raw grainy malt. Tastes a
bit like they used a decoction mash or a
very long boil.
Overall: A bit sweet for the style,
but not so much as to keep you from
enjoying a full pint, as the bitterness
backs up this big example of APA. An
enjoyable beer, but the malt character
is not expected from a pale aleits
as though someone added pale ale
hopping to a bock.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Grassy, earthy, dank, and
resiny hops character gives way to
citrus notes and mild biscuit notes
from the malt. Piney and spicy hops
character is quite a departure from
other pale ales.
Flavor: Grassy dank character carries
through in the flavor. Unique hops
flavors, a bit like pine and passion fruit,
give way to a crisp, dry finish. Malt backbone helps support without interfering.
Similar spicy and floral hops notes in
flavor as indicated by the aroma.
Overall: Slightly bitter, but a little
more layered than some pales. Unique
take on an APA with a nice variation on
the typical hops profile and a properly
supportive malt bill. This pale takes
its own approach, with different hops
choices that allow it to stand out from
the crowd, while still delivering some
fruity hops character and a solid level
of bitterness.

AROMA: 9
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

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88

TOP

RATED

Half Acre
Daisy Cutter
Pale Ale

Lagunitas
Mad River
Mission El
New DogTown Steelhead
Conquistador
Pale Ale
Extra Pale Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 6.1% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.6% | IBU: 26 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 4.8% | IBU: 44 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


A West Coast Pale Ale chock-full of
dank, aromatic hops. This ones a
screamer; hoard it.

What the brewer says


A big and malty pale ale with a
thirst-quenching hops flavor and a
crispy clean finish.

What the brewer says


Pale golden color with soft lemon and
melon esters and a bready malt body.
Dry hopped with Centennial and experimental hops from the Yakima Valley.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Clean hops aroma evokes
everything from pitch, pine sap, faint
tobacco, and resin to citrus, flowers,
and tangerine. A faint earthiness and
bready, cracker-like malt sits in the
background. Esters are middle of the
road and complement the hops aroma
with notes of peach, biscuit, slight
banana cloviness.
Flavor: Very even malt/bitter balance
with low bread notes and plenty of
grassy and floral hops flavor coming
through that wasnt apparent in the
nose. Same fruits as nosepeach,
slight banana. Strong clean bitter hops
bite with a bit of resinous hops character. Malt is not as sweet as expected
given the aroma.
Overall: Super tasty. This well-crafted
pale ale showcases the brewers skill
at keeping everything in balance. The
strong hops flavors contrast with the
maltier-than-typical backbone, pushing
this right to the line between pale ale
and IPA. But the result is delicious.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Juicy, resiny hops prevail,
with nice pine and grapefruit notes and
a touch of must. Malt and yeast are
mostly absent in aroma. Bright citrus
and cattiness play well together.
Flavor: Very juicy and citrusy
with lemon, orange, and tangerine
notesthe aroma promises, and the
flavor over-delivers. The hops fruity
sweetness carries through to the dry
and clean finish. The complex floral and
spice-rack pungency in the hops flavor
is beautiful and yet quite different from
what was suggested in the aroma. Very
carbonic and juicy yet dry.
Overall: A bright, juicy APA that
smells and tastes like fresh hops resin;
this beer beautifully showcases the
hops. Very, very enjoyable. Its quite
an unexpected and delicious beer with
unique hops choices that allow it to
showcase and shine light onto new
hops flavors. Its very carbonated and
dry, very tasty, and probably one of the
best weve had.

What the brewer says


A bright golden-hued ale of medium
body with a spicy floral hops character
and very mild bitterness. 2008 and
2012 Gold Medal and 2010 and 2013
Silver Medal winner at GABF in the
Golden and Blonde Ale category.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

96

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 10

99

What our panel thought


Aroma: Earthy hops character is overshadowed by sweet candy with a slight
vanilla, butterscotch, and graham
cracker charactersmells a bit like
a Werthers Original candy. Its interesting, but slightly out of place for a pale.
Hint of oxidization in the nose detracts
from grapefruit and pine notes.
Flavor: Malt is definitely the most
interesting thing about this beer, which
isnt always the best thing said about a
pale ale. Hops character is muted and
subtle but some notes of grapefruit
creep through. Toffee and butter
character lead to a finish thats a little
sweet for a pale.
Overall: An odd pale ale, with minimal
hops depth but plenty of malt complexity. A bit more classic in its approach
than some of the new pales, but still
tasty. The dialed-back bitterness helps
the malt character shinemaybe a bit
too sweet for the style, but pleasant.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Medium hops intensity hits
piney, leafy, and slight citrus notes.
Esters of stone fruit include apricot
notes. Clean ale yeast character sits
atop caramel and candy sugar malt
underneath, lending mild nose overall.
Flavor: Moderately hoppy with a piney
and leafy characterbalance tilts
hoppy over malty, but both are a bit
one-dimensional. Clean and light malt
flavors eschew caramel or darker malt
to leave it bright. Finishes pretty dry
sharp and bitter, ready for another
sip. Bitterness lingers with a touch of
smoky phenol.
Overall: Overall an interesting beer
with a few characteristics Im not a fan
of. Quite hoppy yet light in color and
malt bodyas a result, the bitterness
is accentuated. An extra pale ale,
as in a very light body that causes
the bitterness to be somewhat over
emphasizedit could benefit from a
bit more backbone to counter the hops
bitterness. This is a hops-lovers beer.

AROMA: 8
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 8

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 3
OVERALL: 9

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| 95

| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

EDITORS

PICK

New Holland Oskar Blues


Paleooza
Dales Pale
Ale

Schlafly Dry
Hopped APA

Sierra
Nevada
Pale Ale

| ABV: 4.4% | IBU: 33 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 6.5% | IBU: 65 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.9% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.6% | IBU: 38 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


Our classic Pale Ale, with Michigan-grown Cascade hops. Bright
hoppiness and pleasant aromatics are
framed with balancing sweetness of
pale malts.

What the brewer says


This voluminously hopped mutha
delivers a hoppy nose and assertive-but-balanced flavors of pale malts
and citrusy floral hops from start to
finish.

What the brewer says


Pale Ales unique piney and grapefruit
aromas from the use of whole-cone
American hops have fascinated beer
drinkers for decades and made this
beer a classic. It is all natural, bottleconditioned, and refreshingly bold.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Medium-low hops aroma is
full of citruslemon and tangerine.
Fruity esters complement the complex
and inviting hops aroma. First hit
offered a touch of DMS, but resolved
into a pineapple-grapefruit mix.
Flavor: Highly carbonated, slightly
sharp carbonic bite up front. Balance
leans toward malt instead of hops but
flavor remains bright through the finish.
Grassy hops character with a bit of
orange peel and moderate bitterness
(but not very strong in the mix). Body is
thin and simple, and it finishes very dry
with a lingering bitterness.
Overall: There was a lot of subtle
low-level complexity, but it lacks
some of the bold qualities that make
a great APA, such as a dominant hops
character. Hops bitterness lingers in
a good way and its easy to drink with
a light and refreshing finish, but that
simplicity can be read as boring,
depending on your point of view.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Nice hops character and
citrus sweetness with muted piney,
earthy, and floral hops notes with just a
touch of malt sweetness in support.
Flavor: Sweet clean hops citrus
character with juicy grapefruit and
orange complexities, though everything
is a bit restrained. Sweet, nutty, and
slightly fruity hops flavor balanced with
pine and a higher bitterness that helps
to mitigate the sweetness.
Overall: This beer was crafted well
but the hops character is somewhat
muted and a bit too one-note. Its
an okay beer, though muted or a bit
muddy, and more malty than some.
A tasty APA with a nice hops flavor
and supportive base beer and malt
sweetness. A bit lacking in complexity
but still very tasty.

What the brewer says


The pine/citrus aroma characteristic
of American hops balances the full
body provided by North American
malts. After fermentation, the beer circulates through a bed of Cascade and
Chinook hops, boosting the distinctive
hops aroma and flavor.

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 3
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

96 |

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CRAFT BEER & BREWING

84

What our panel thought


Aroma: Citrus and pine with notes of
grapefruit peel and tangerines and no
real malt or yeast character. Interesting, yet straightforward hops choices.
Nice and piney, with a light dankness
and some pleasant citrus character.
Flavor: Grapefruit and orange rind
with a bit of pine and lemon sits atop a
clean fermentation and very little malt
backbone. Finish is dry and a touch
bitter but doesnt linger. Put together
well with nice bright flavors, hops, and
malt that play off each other nicely.
Overall: Pretty classic example, with
just a bit more bitterness than is typical for the style, but not overwhelming
and still enjoyable. Lots of citrus and
a bit less hops complexity as a result,
but great for the style. A nice bright
beer with conventional hops, but well
executed and quite drinkable. Great
example of the style.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Light grapefruit, lemon, and
floral notes with a slight grainy sweetness behind the hops aroma. A little
restrained for style, but still pleasant.
Light sweet malt notes with a touch
of biscuit malt. Mostly clean with low
esters and just a hint of sulfur.
Flavor: Nice up-front hops, balanced
wonderfully with a soft malt character.
Citrus rind dominates hops flavors with
some floral notes. Restrained yeast
notes provide a subtle fruitiness that
works well. Light and carbonicvery
drinkable. Definitely hops forward
but not out of balance, with a slight
lingering bitterness.
Overall: This is your dads pale
alea pretty classic-style pale ale
thats rounded out with no intense
sharp edges that hits straight down
the middle. All ingredients play well
together, but nothing really sticks out. A
clean, quaffable pale ale.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

94

88

EDITORS

PICK

Ska Brewing
Euphoria
Pale Ale

Southern
Tier Live

Stone
Pale Ale

Sweetwater
420 Extra
Pale Ale

| ABV: 6.2% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.7% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


A big backbone of malt, with plenty
of caramel sweetness and just a touch
of chocolate and toast. Its the epic
grapefruit hops aroma and flavor,
provided by a huge dry hops addition
at the end of fermentation, that makes
this beer shine.

What the brewer says


Bottle Conditioned Pale Ale. Light
copper color. Ample, fine carbonation.
Sweet malts, citrusy hops, pine aroma.
Hops dominate the flavor, then mingle
with the malts. Dry finish.

What the brewer says


Our Southern California take on the
classic British ale. Deep amber in color,
this beers bold malt character is complemented by a judicious amount of hops,
lending it a subtly enticing aroma.

What the brewer says


A tasty West Coast Style Pale Ale with
a stimulating hops character and a
crisp finish. Brewed with Munich, 40L,
and 2-Row malts and Centennial and
Cascade hops.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Strong hops aroma of citrus
(intense orange rind and over-ripened
orange flesh) and pine. Malt biscuit
notes are just enough to hold up the
hops profile (but not much more). Some
tangerine and catty notes and bright,
juicy lemon notes up front with a bit of
pine and grapefruit.
Flavor: Hops jump in at the front
and are sweet and juicy to the finish.
The malt character only stands behind
to showcase these hops. Wonderful
intense sweet orange and lemon
hops notes contrast with a perfectly
balanced bitterness set against slight
malty sweetness. Complex hops flavors
are accentuated by the dry finish of the
beer, without being too bitter.
Overall: This is a refreshing and
delicious pale ale put together very
wellan assertive hops aroma and
flavor knocks you out with orange and
tangerine. Cleverly crafted to showcase
bright and exciting hops flavors.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Delicate floral element almost
makes up for lack of aromatic volume.
Very faint nose, with mild apricot,
peach, and citrus. Clean yeast aromatics.
Malt has a biscuit character, verging
on caramel and dark bread with a bit of
orange-blossom honey.
Flavor: Rich bread and caramel/burnt
sugar malt flavors underpin a slightly
woody, resinous, and crisp hops flavor
thats much more assertive than the
aroma. Bitterness hides underneath
the malt richness, giving support
without lingering in the finish. Carb and
balance are spot on.
Overall: A rich full-bodied pale ale
that seems like a perfect beer to drink
in a basement pub. Lots of English
notes (sweeter, fuller body, woody
hops), but with an American level of
bitterness. Clean fermentation, big and
interesting malt character. A welldesigned APA that needs a bit more
hops on the aroma.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Clean citrusy hops aroma with
a slight malt sweetness. Woody, floral
hops with a light citrus edge evoke orange peel, mild vanilla, and black pepper.
Light bready malt notes in the back.
Grapefruit comes out as it warms. Nutty
yeast aromas and spicy phenolic notes.
Flavor: Slightly bready malt bill
balanced to style by classic West Coast
citrusy hops. Spicy, almost Belgian phenolic yeast character with a light wheat
tartness, decent floral hops flavor
under the spice, pineapple. Peach and
cranberry notes. Lingering bitterness in
finish without harshness.
Overall: Good example of a West
Coast pale ale in terms of hops character
and overall balance. Leans toward the
phenolic character of a Belgian pale
ale, but very tasty. Caramel sweetness
may be a bit high for style, but the
layers of malt and ester flavors add interest. A full-flavored, excellent choice
to pair with richer dinners.

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

What our panel thought


Aroma: Toasty malt and citrus/
grassy hops character, though overall
relatively subdued for a pale ale. Some
malt complexity can be parsed out in
the aromafresh bread crust, slight
caramel. Hops are a bit subdued but
still present, coming through as citrus.
Flavor: Malt sweetness balances well
with the hops. The hops come through
more in the end with some bright citrus
notes and a little grass-like character
as well. Finishes slightly bitter but still
clean. Hops flavor are much brighter
than the aroma suggestedmore juicy,
tropical fruit flavors than in the aroma.
Overall: A more malt-forward pale
ale that still showcases some nice
citrus hops character. A bit more malty
and sweet than is currently in vogue
for APAs. A delicious beer that has a
wonderful flavor with a mild aroma.
AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 8

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| 97

| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Terrapin
Rye Pale Ale

Tregs
Pale Ale

Uinta WYLD Upslope


Extra Pale Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 4% | IBU: 29 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.8% | IBU: 36 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


By using an exact amount of rye, the
Rye Pale Ale acquires its signature taste.
Made with five varieties of hops and a
generous amount of specialty malts, it
offers a complex flavor and aroma that is
both aggressive and well-balanced.

What the brewer says


Tregs Pale Ale is an American-style
Pale Ale that is aggressively hopped with
Northwest Cascades and balanced with
crystal malts to create a hoppy, crisp,
copper-colored ale. Simple and classic,
yet full-flavored and sessionable.

What the brewer says


Aggressively dry hopped to showcase
fresh hops flavors and aromas. Begins
with slight malt flavor with a subtle
sweetness. Hops character pounces
with citrus and pine notes. Finishes dry
with an infusion of sweet hoppiness.

What the brewer says


This clear, crisp, dry pale ale is our
signature beer, the one that started
it all! Its refreshing characteristics
and signature dry finish blend smooth
malt flavors with a unique spicy hops
bitterness.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Piney and citrusy hops notes
up front work well with the malt spiciness. A touch of malt sweetness comes
through, maybe with a hint of caramel.
Medium yeast notes of plum and apple
cider. Pine and citrus hops give it a
slightly earthy character.
Flavor: A bit more subdued on hops
flavor than most APAs, with the hops
flavors competing a bit with rye. This
pale doesnt make the hops the star of
the show; its more a bit player behind
an intriguing maltiness with bread crust,
caramel, and biscuit notes. Earthy and
spiced notes of rye add complexity.
Overall: The rye malt layer is great,
but might work better with more spicy
hops, such as Chinook, since the
citrusy hops dont seem to play as well
with the rye. Enjoyablea different
take on APA. The spice and malt
character blend well with the hops.
Very drinkable.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Green onion, savory, spicy
lemongrass on the nose with low malt
aromatics and medium esters that
complement the hops. Esters pull out
notes of pineapple, kiwi, and peaches
and cream oatmeal.
Flavor: Malt sugary sweetness peeking out from behind some intriguing
hops flavorsgreen onion, tamarind, and fenugreek. This is a weird,
well-balanced, not-a-typical-APA beer.
Malt is fairly simple with some subtle
biscuity undertones. Finishes clean.
Overall: VERY interesting aromas and
flavors going on. This tastes a bit like
an Asian curry dishIm enjoying it,
but its definitely unique! They hit the
sweet spot between malty and bitter
and deliver great balance. Light esters
complement overall flavors without
demanding attention. Nose is weak for
the style, but the unique notes draw
you in. Balance is nicely executed.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Huge tangerine raw hops aroma,
with notes of resin, grainy malt, and
low stone-fruit fermentation aromatics.
Very strong hops aromapiney, resinous, citrus rind, slightly grassy. Light
clean pale malt aromas.
Flavor: Perfectly balanced malt and
bitterness. The raw hops flavors are a
bit over-the-top but fun. Low caramel
notes in the finish keep it interesting
and refreshing. Heavy hops flavor,
again very resinous, with that freshhops-just-dropped-into-the-boil smell.
Overall: Not sure I could drink very
much of ithops character seems overly raw and a bit astringent in the finish.
Its a fun beer with no process flaws
and a nice recipea bit like chewing
on hops cones, but I like the hops flavor
in the finish. Beer is clean and well balanced for an APA, but a slightly higher
carbonation level would accentuate the
hoppiness and clean up the finish.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Strong lemon on the nose with
sweet citrus and light biscuit malt.
Slight, yet interesting mineral character
and a nice Smarties candy aroma. Hops
are a bit subdued but come through as
pine and resin. A touch of malt sweetness follows the hops notes.
Flavor: A very unique grape-juice-like
flavor with some intense gooseberry
and tart cherry notes. Similar mineral
profile in the aroma. A mix of citrusy
hops and a touch of malt sweetness
and perhaps even a perception of
sweetness from the hops (maybe
tropical fruit) work to balance this one
out, both in flavor and finish.
Overall: A unique beer with some
very interesting and new hops flavors,
though restrained, that work well. The
hops character is complex and unique
with just enough malt backbone to
keep things balanced with a distinct
character in the hops selection.

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 10

98 |

83

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

91

91

84

| ENGLISH PALE ALES |

Victory
Headwaters
Pale Ale

Firestone
Walker DBA

Full Sail
Pale Ale

Great Divide
Denver Pale
Ale

| ABV: 5.1% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


This firmly crisp and aromatically arousing pale ale integrates a softly supportive
malt base that underlies streams of herbal hops complexity. Shifting impressions
of lemon aroma and flavor intermingle
with leafy, tea-like earthiness.

What the brewer says


DBA opens with a biscuity toasted malt
aroma and a hint of oak and vanilla. Pale
malts create a smooth malty middle with
ribbons of caramel, English toffee, and
toasted oak. A tribute to English pales
traditionally fermented in cask.

What the brewer says


Our English Pale Ale is not a West
Coast hoppy pale ale, but more malt
forward. There is a toasty caramel from
the malts, and it finishes with a touch
of earthy hops.

What the brewer says


DPA is a world-renowned classic pale
ale with a malty middle and an equally
hearty complement of hops aroma,
flavor, and bitterness.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Floral hops aroma meets
medium sweet malt with biscuit notes
verging on caramel. Light esters of pear
or peach and very subdued citrus notes
sit atop tasty honey-bread crust malt.
Flavor: Full bodied with a sweeter malt
finish and hops bitterness to match the
body. Moderate hops flavorpeach,
pear, some cherry, and pine, with a
proper bitter finish. Initial flavor is
much more simple than aromatics
suggesta good surprise. Lovely.
Overall: Well-crafted, balanced pale
ale. Hops flavor lingers into the aftertaste with juicy citrus notes and fresh
pine boughs. Right down the center
of the style, an archetypal example.
Carb makes the hops pop, and then the
bitterness lingers. Great West Coast
hops characternicely balanced beer.
Stylewise it may be a bit bitter overall,
but the malt complexity backs it up well.
AROMA: 12
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

96

What our panel thought


Aroma: Spicy hops aroma is very
herbal and almost medicinal, with
some dark cherry esters. Nice sweet
caramel and toffee malt aroma. Hops
aroma is subdued, floral and earthy.
Flavor: The hops character in this
beer is earthy, woody, a bit spicy, and
floral, with mild bitternessmore than
the nose would suggest. Notes of caramel and toffee come through well with
a light body. Hops flavors clash with the
fruity yeast esters, though as it warms
these work better together. Bitterness
is a little low for the style, allowing the
malt to linger a little too long.
Overall: Nice example of the style.
A decent English pale ale, but hops
choices dont quite harmonize perfectly
with the malt complexity and yeast
esters. Plenty of hops to keep things
interestingperhaps more than would
usually be found in Englandthis is
an American take on a British style.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Fruity and bready, well-blended and slightly sweet. Hops are mostly
absent, adding just a touch of spicy
background. Esters are moderately
assertive, with notes of plums or sweet
cherry. Sweet, orangey hops.
Flavor: Big malty caramel burnt
sugar up front, balanced with a blunt
bitter and nice grassy hops flavor. Very
British in character and effect. Rich
melanoidin finishoverly complex for
the style but tasty. Hops bitterness has
a hard time contending with the malt.
Malt is bready with caramel and strong
crystal notes. Lightly bitter finish.
Overall: Enough malt throughout to
slightly cover up the hops, especially in
the aroma. A touch sweet throughout,
but the finish is bitter enough to clear
most of the sweetness off. Woody hops
flavors in background. Its definitely
a British Pale with the volume of malt
sweet and caramel. But good regardlessnice yum factor.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Slight earthy and herbal hops
notes, but yeasty esters quickly come
out to dominate the aroma. Apple cider,
overripe pear, slight mustiness of a
fallen apple set out in the sun too long.
A mild caramel malt note. As it warms,
a slight cheese-rind aroma emerges.
Flavor: The hops come through with
nice earthy and spiced character and
moderate bitterness. Smooth round
malt flavors, caramel and dark crystal
notes with a nice clean finish for an
English pale. Mid-level hops bitterness
balances well with the malt body. There
is a noticeable amount of herbal and
floral hops flavor, but they arent allowed
to shine behind the very British yeast
character.
Overall: Enjoyable pale ale. The
malt character was nice and provided
some richness without overtaking the
beer. The earthy spiced hops were
showcased well. Sweet malt aroma
is appropriate for EPA. Nice beer for
enjoying by a fire reading a good book.

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

AROMA: 9
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9

87

83

85

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 99

| ENGLISH PALE ALES |

TOP

EDITORS

PICK

RATED

Heavy Seas
Powder
Monkey

Odell Brewing Samuel Smith Schlafly


5 Barrel Pale Organic Pale Pale Ale
Ale
Ale

| ABV: 4.8% | IBU: 29 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 36 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 5% | IBU: 31 | SRM: N/A |

| ABV: 4.4% | IBU: 25 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says


A traditional English-style pale ale
with our own East Coast twist: UK Fuggles and Goldings hops dominate the
flavor but it has subtle notes of citrus
and flower from Cascade hops. Distinct
bitterness and a slight malt sweetness
characterize the taste.

What the brewer says


We treat 5 Barrel Pale Ale to an infusion of fresh whole hops flowers in the
hops back and the fermentor, as well
as four hops additions during the kettle
boil. We like how this gives the beer a
fresh, lively flavor and aroma.

What the brewer says


A classic malt-accented, copper-colored
pale ale in which subtle fruity esters from
the Samuel Smith yeast strain interact
with caramel flavors (from organic
crystal malt) and fresh hops.

What the brewer says


A smooth, balanced, copper-colored
session beer with mildly spiced flavor
and aroma from the East Kent Goldings
hops. The bready, lightly caramel malt
complements the hint of fruitiness
contributed by the London Ale yeast.

What our panel thought


Aroma: An interesting mix of hops and
malt that competes for attention. Nice
biscuit and bread-crust malt notes
with an interesting pungent orange
marmalade and floral lavender hops
character with some light fruity esters.
Flavor: A curious and delicious
balance of bready maltiness with
light toffee and caramel notes and an
assertive bread-crust flavor. The fruity
and floral hops flavors work perfectly
with the malt, and just a touch of yeast
esters add to the complexity.
Overall: An enjoyable beertastes
like an East Coast pub ale with Ringwood yeast. The malt body provides a
nice counterpoint to the spicy and earthy
hops character. An old-school American
interpretation of British pub ales that
encompasses all of those rich English
malt flavorsbread crust, biscuit, and
toast with jam. Overall very nice.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Big hops aroma with a mix
of earthy/floral notes and an overlay
of citrus. Perhaps its dry hopped with
American variety? Very floral in the
nose with some slight biscuit toast
character in the back.
Flavor: Hop-tastic initial blast of
flavor races ahead of the malt. Medium-high carbonation accentuates hops
impact. Hops are floral and earthy, with
some sweet citrus fruit notes as well.
Bitterness is well-balanced against
a medium body of complex malt, with
bread crust, biscuits and jam, and light
caramel.
Overall: Tasty, juicy, hops-focused
pale ale. Medium malt level allows
for high hops bitterness without
harshness. A well-executed and
enjoyable beer where the hops and malt
character come together and blend
well. A tasty hybrid of American and
English character.

What our panel thought


Aroma: Sweet caramel, toast, and
toffee notes with a floral and earthy
hops character. Esters evoke fresh-cut
Red Delicious apples or an orange grove
after the rain. Not much hops aroma,
but other components more than make
up for its absence.
Flavor: Caramel and toasty malt
sweetness with a touch of floral and
spiced hops. That blend of fruity yeast
esters plays off the delicious malt
profileapple and pear flavors work
wonderfully with the bread crust. Lingering bitterness is just a touch harsh.
Overall: Very enjoyable malt-forward
pale ale with subtle floral and earthy
hops. The bold fruit flavors and sweet
malt make this both a warming and refreshing treat. Finishes medium sweet
with some tartness in the aftertaste.
Tastes like caramel applesa wonderfully complex and tasty beer with
flavors not often found in this style.
Unusual, well done, and welcomed.

What our panel thought


Aroma: A slight sourdough bread note
up front, with mild floral, herbal, and
spicy hops character underneath. Malt is
reminiscent of toasted graham crackers
with Bit-o-Honey candy-sweet notes.
Flavor: This beer definitely leans
more toward the malt than the hops.
Interesting malt notesbread crust,
graham cracker, and some biscuit.
Hops flavors of citrus and orange are
almost absent with just enough bitterness to provide some balance. Crisp
and carbonic with a dry finish.
Overall: Enjoyable, although the malt
needs definition to shine through. Hops
play a supporting rolethis is more
like an English bitter or even a slightly
more flavorful mild than a true EPA.
Good balance of malt sweetness and
hops character that did not seem to
get in the way of each other. Excellent
example of an EPAvery enjoyable
with an appropriate level of bitterness.

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

100 |

95

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

93

93

88

INSIDE CB&B

Editors Picks
The review scores in this (and every) issue of Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine are a result of blind tasting by our independent panel (staff do not participate in the scoring of the beers). But our editorial team tastes the same beers,
and we have our own opinions of the brews. Most of the time, those opinions coincide with the review panel, but
occasionally they diverge, so weve used the Editors Pick flags on the reviews in conjunction with this sidebar to
point out some of our editors favorites from this issue.

Summit
Extra Pale Ale

Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale

New Holland
Paleooza

Southern Tier
Live

Samuel Smith
Organic Pale Ale

Lagunitas
Born Yesterday
Pale Ale

3 Floyds Yum
Yum Pale Ale

At the brewers after-party at


the Shelton Brothers Festival
last October, we watched a
room full of some of the most
celebrated brewers in the
world clean the bar out of
the venerable Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale. It may not be the
sexiest pale, but it was one of
the very first to celebrate U.S.
hops varieties, and Sierra Nevadas focus on consistency
and quality has earned them
respect from the best of their
peers. Its the standard by
which all others are judged.

While the review panel


searched for bolder notes in
New Hollands Paleooza, the
editorial team enjoyed the
subtle berry notes from the
Michigan-grown Cascade
hops. It hints at the unique
juicy fruit flavors of 3 Floyds
Yum Yum, but with a subtle
malt profile thats more comforting than crisp.

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A |


What the brewer says
Summit EPA has been gracing the pint
glasses of serious brew lovers since
1986. Bronze color. Gold-medalwinning flavor. With caramel, biscuity
malts balanced with an earthy hops
bite and juicy citrus.
What our panel thought
Aroma: Pleasant floral aroma, almost
like honeysuckle. Subtle sweet orange
marmalade notes. A light biscuit malt
undertone, with slight toast and caramel
malt notes as well. Esters are mediumhigh and fruity verging on tropical.
Flavor: Assertive bitterness up front
that mellows with a nice malt breadline. Hops flavor takes a little work
to discern behind the bitterness and
malt, but floral character remains. The
beer finishes and lingers on the tongue
with some biscuit malt sweetness with
the floral hops notes. Very dry with
medium-high carbonation.
Overall: Enjoyable EPA with a nice
showcase of hops and a light body
at the base. Finishes medium dry. An
American take on EPAone probably
would not find a beer this bitter very
often in England. A tasty and complex
beer that showcases this hops profile
quite nicely.
AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

92

Bottle-conditioned and
bright, Southern Tier Live
became a favorite in the Craft
Beer & Brewing Magazine
office fridge as we put this
issue together. With a perfect
balance of crisp malt and
well-defined contemporary
citrus hops profile, Live
never feels like its trying too
hardthe elements play well
together, and the dry finish
sets up each new sip.

This bottle from Lagunitas


arrived after our review
panels for the issue wrapped
up, but that didnt stop
the team from enjoying
the exquisite fresh hops
profile showcased by Born
Yesterday. At 7.5% ABV, its at
the very top of what could be
considered an imperial pale
ale, but the very light body
and balanced bitterness let
the aroma and flavors hops
push forward.

We cut our teeth on bottles


of Samuel Smith Oatmeal
Stout in the mid-90s when
it was one of the few widely
available, but recent experiences with the brand left us
wishing they would take a
few more steps to appeal to
modern taste buds. Organic
Pale Ale took us by surprise
with strong fruit flavors driven
by yeast esters working
together with the hops. In
contrast to many beers in the
style, its a great winterseason pale ale.

Theres that moment when


you crack open a beer youve
never had before, and the flavors hit you in a rush thats a
mix of excitement, confusion,
and wonderment. So it is with
Yum Yum, where 3 Floyds
has extended its mastery of
aroma and flavor hops deeper into the pale ale territory
with this beer that evokes
strawberries, melon, and
the most wild fruit character
weve enjoyed since that last
bottle of Fantme.

BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 101

ASK THE EXPERTS

Belgian
Yeast Strains
A CRAFT BEER & BREWING READER
recently asked us the following question:
What are the differences between the various Belgian yeast strains? How do I choose
the right one?
With the vast number of yeast strains
available to todays homebrewer, its
easy to get confused. Belgian yeasts are
incredibly diverse. The best place to start
is to identify the technical performance
characteristics you want for your homebrew: things such as optimal fermentation
temperature, attentuation, and flocculation, says Leinhart.
A yeasts optimal fermentation temperature is actually a range of temperatures
at which that yeast strain performs best.
Aiming for a temperature below this range
may stall the fermentation, while fermenting substantially above the temperature
range can encourage the yeast to create
unwanted flavors and aromas. Belgian
yeast strains tend to work well at typical ale
temperatures, 6268F (1620C), but some
saison strains can tolerate temperatures
approaching 100F (38C)!
Attenuation is a value that indicates the
percentage of available wort sugars a yeast
strain is likely to ferment. Highly attenuative strains can eat through 90 percent or
more of the available sugars, while lowattenuating yeasts might barely get
through 60 percent. Attenuation also
depends on other factors, such as wort
composition and fermentation tempera-

102 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

ture, but all other things being equal,


attenuation is a good metric with which to
compare two yeast strains. All yeasts are
different, but as a general rule, Belgian
strains tend to be big attenuators relative
to other broad classes of yeast.
Flocculation refers to a yeast strains tendency to clump together and drop out of
suspension. Highly flocculent yeast cells
readily fall to the bottom of a fermentation
vessel at the end of fermentation, leaving
behind brilliantly clear beer. Less flocculent yeast, on the other hand, may remain
in suspension even after fermentation
has come to an end. While Belgian strains
tend to be mildly to moderately flocculent,
this certainly isnt a rule.
We ferment Brewery Ommegangs
Glimmerglass, a Belgian saison, with a
very flocculent yeast strain, notes Leinhart. The cells readily clump together
into a slurry on the bottom of the fermentation tanks.
Flocculation and attenuation are loosely
correlated in that yeast cells that remain
suspended are more likely to fully ferment
than yeast cells that drop out. The relationship isnt absolute, but its a good rule
of thumb.
To compare these technical specifications, Leinhart recommends contacting
major yeast suppliers such as White Labs,
Wyeast, and the Brewing Science Institute.
These microbiology labs publish yeast performance characteristics on their websites
and are always happy to answer questions
about every brewers favorite microbe.

PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

Our Ask the Experts column poses your homebrewing questions


to industry experts. In this issues column, we asked Phil Leinhart,
brewmaster at Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, New York, for some
advice on Belgian yeast strains.

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| 103

| ASK THE EXPERTS |

While published profiles can offer some clues


to the unique flavors and aromas a particular
strain will lend, a yeasts complex interaction
with wort composition, hops aromatics, and
even fermentor geometry means that some
trial and error is often in order.

104 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Yeast selection, of course, isnt just about


numbers. Stylistic considerations are also
important, and the difference between a
good beer and a great one can easily come
down to yeast selection. While published
profiles can offer some clues to the unique
flavors and aromas a particular strain will
lend, a yeasts complex interaction with
wort composition, hops aromatics, and
even fermentor geometry means that
some trial and error is often in order.
You just have to practice and discover what
works best for you, Leinhart emphasizes.
Keep in mind that Belgian is a broad term
that includes a great number of distinct
styles and that some strains are best suited
to certain kinds of beer. Belgian saison, for
example, showcases a spicy phenolic character (think cloves and pepper) that is largely a by-product of yeast selection (some
saisons are actually spiced, but this need
not be the case). Fermenting a tripel with
the same strain would no doubt produce
an excellent ale, but it probably wouldnt
turn out a classic tripel.
Belgian pale ale (See Pales in Comparison, page 74) is fermented with a
relatively clean yeast strain that shares
more similarities with Chico (American
and California ale) and lager yeasts than it
does with abbey-style varieties. One could
ferment any ale with such a strain, but
the expected esters wont present in the
desired amounts for, say, a wit.
We can divide Belgian yeasts into a few
categories, according to the beer styles for
which theyre best suited.

beer drinkers instantly recognize as


Belgian. Start with WLP500 Monastery Ale (formerly Trappist Ale) and
WLP530 Abbey Ale from White Labs or
1214 Belgian Abbey and 3787 Trappist
High Gravity from Wyeast to get a feel
for what you like and then try some of
the other strains.
Belgian Strong Ale yeasts can tolerate
the high alcohol of golden and dark
strong ales. White Labs WLP570 Belgian
Golden Ale and Wyeast 1388 Belgian
Strong Ale are classics, but Abbey and
Trappist strains can turn out great examples as well.
Saison strains include a spicy component that can come across as peppery
and clove-like. They also tend to leave
a distinctive dry tartness. White Labs
WLP565 Belgian Saison I and Wyeast
3724 Belgian Saison are reported to
have been sourced from Brasserie
Dupont, but both are prone to stalling
at around 1.035. Raising the fermentation temperature to as high as 95F
(35C) can get you over the hump, or try
Wyeast 3711 French Saison, which is so
aggressive that you might think it will
ferment through the carboy itself.
Witbier yeast offers up a tart, fruity
flavor that makes it the ideal accompaniment to the coriander and citrus
typically found in Belgian whites.
Classic strains for that refreshing,
thirst-quenching characteristic include
White Labs WLP400 Belgian Wit and
Wyeast 3944 Belgian Witbier.

Belgian pale ale strains are fairly neutral


and can be hard to find. White Labs
WLP515 Antwerp Ale and Wyeast 3655PC Belgian Schelde Ale, available as
seasonal strains, are both good choices.
In the absence of these, a relatively clean
American-ale strain is a good choice.
Abbey and Trappist strains deliver
the signature fruity esters and spicy
phenols that characterize what most

There are of course, plenty of other


strains, including any number of lambic
and sour blends, but starting out with
one of these basic options will place you
squarely on the path to Belgian bliss.
If you have a question for the experts, email
us at info@beerandbrewing.com or visit our
website at www.beerandbrewing.com.

register with code: cbbm15

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ncbshow.com

BREW TEST

Digital Hydrometers & Refractometers


A new generation of digital tools makes reading gravity more precise and easier than
ever. Our test lab tried twoThe STM eDrometer and the Misco Digital Refractometer
to find out just how well they work for pro brewers and homebrewers alike.

STM Instruments eDrometer

Misco Palm Abbe Refractometer

What it is

What it is

An affordable accurate digital hydrometer that offers a wide


variety of measurements (standard gravity, density, Brix, Plato,
Baume, potential alcohol, and more) with built-in temperature
compensation in an easy-to-clean form factor.

A convenient, handheld digital refractometer with multiple purchasing options depending on the measurement scales needed.
Test unit included Brix, percentage of dissolved sugars, gravity,
and propylene glycol freeze point.

Test lab notes

Test lab notes

PROS: Our testers put the eDrometer through its paces and

PROS: The Misco unit is useful in both commercial and homebrew environments, with the tiny sample size being ideal for
homebrew-scale batches. It delivers immediate results (5 seconds
on average), and units can be purchased with up to five separate
measurement scales (pricing depends on the number of scales
one needs). For commercial breweries, the option to include
measurements such as glycol freeze point adds another layer of
utility to the device. It proved accurate and consistent when measured against other calibrated devices. Handheld device is easy to
move around a commercial environment.
CONS: Because its a refractometer, you will need to use a brewing
calculator to determine gravity once fermentation begins. Only the
manufacturer can install additional scales.

Verdict
The eDrometer is a nice piece of technology, derived from an
expired Anton-Paar patent and can fully replace a hydrometer
as a homebrew, lab, or brewery tool. Its very slight variability in
results is a drawback, but its worth considering if it will be set up
in a stationary location.

Details
$395. Available online at stm-instrument.com.

106 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Verdict
The Misco PA203X is clearly designed for industrial use, and performs well at a fraction of the cost of other commercial units. Its
a highly accurate refractometer, and multiple independent scales
provide a variety of uses around a commercial brewery. Since its
not truly a hydrometer, its most useful before fermentation or for
cases that dont require a physical measurement of density.

Details
Price ranges from $335 (for a unit that measures only Brix) to
$535 for the tested unit. Available online at misco.com.

PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

found that it offers quick measurement response time, very


precise measurements (measures to the thousandth of a point),
and a wide range of units of measure to choose from (its useful
for everything from brewing to wine making to distilling). Testers
were very happy that the unit measures actual density, not just
refraction. Nine-volt battery power makes it portable, yet the base
is stable and self-supporting. It offers digital performance for a
fraction of the price of typical commercial units.
CONS: Our testers found that the unit does take some time to
stabilize if you move it from a warmer to a colder environment
(or vice versa), and it can yield slightly variable results if ambient
temperatures fluctuate. The sample size, while significantly smaller than what an analog hydrometer test jar requires, is roughly
25mla larger sample than a refractometer requires.

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| BREWING GLOSSARY |

Brewing A-Z
-Aacetic >> vinegary aroma caused by acetic
acid bacteria; common in sour beers.
acetaldehyde >> chemical present in beer
that has the aroma and flavor of fresh-cut
green apples or green leaves.
acid >> a pH value between 1 and 7.
acrospire >> the barley shoot that develops
during germination and malting.
adjunct >> any non-enzymatic fermentable
material that will feed the yeast. Common
examples are rice, corn, refined sugar, raw
wheat, flaked barley, and syrup.
aerobic >> a process that occurs in the
presence of oxygen.
aftertaste >> the flavor that lingers after
beer leaves the mouth.
aldehyde >> a chemical precursor to
alcohol. In some situations, alcohol can be
oxidized to aldehydes, creating off-flavors.
ale >> a beer brewed using a top-fermenting
yeast at 6075F (1524C) for a relatively
short time (23 weeks). The ale family
includes pale, amber/red, strong, and dark.
aleurone layer >> the outermost layer of
the endosperm of a barley grain, containing
enzymes.
alkaline >> a pH value between 7 and 14.
alpha acid >> a class of chemical
compounds found in hop cones resin
glands that is the source of hop bitterness.
alpha acid unit (AAU) >> a homebrewing
measurement of hops that is calculated by
multiplying the percent alpha acid of the
hops by the number of ounces of hops.
American Society of Brewing Chemists
(ASBC) >> the organization that sets
standards and test methods for brewing
materials and processes.
amino acids >> a group of complex organic
chemicals that form the building blocks of
protein.
amylase >> an enzyme group that converts
starch to sugar.
attenuation >> the degree to which the
fermentation process converts residual
sugars to alcohol and CO2.
anaerobic >> a process that occurs in the
absence of oxygen.

108 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

autolysis >> self-digestion and


disintegration of yeast cells that can cause
off-flavors if beer isnt racked from dead
yeast after primary fermentation.
-BBalling >> one of three units that are used
as the standard to describe the amount of
available extract as a weight percentage of
cane sugar in solution.
barley >> cereal grain, member of the genus
Hordeum. Malted barley is the primary
ingredient in beer.
barrel >> standard unit in commercial
brewing. A U.S. barrel is 31.5 gallons; a
British barrel is 43.2 U.S. gallons.
Baum >> hydrometer scale, developed by
the French chemist Antoine Baum, used to
measure the specific gravity of liquids.
beerstone >> a hard brown scale (calcium
oxalate) that deposits on fermentation
equipment.
beta glucans >> a group of gums that are
produced in the malting process and can,
if present in excess, cause problems with
runoff and fermentation.
biotin >> one of the B-complex vitamins
found in yeast.
blow-off tube >> a tube used during
vigorous fermentation to allow the release of
CO2 and excess fermentation material.
Brettanomyces >> colloquially referred to
as Brett, a genus of yeast sometimes used
in brewing. In a glucose-rich environment, it
produces acetic acid.
-Ccalcium >> mineral ion important in
brewing-water chemistry.
caryophyllene >> one of four primary
essential hop oils. Also found in basil,
caraway, cloves, oregano, and pepper.
chill haze >> cloudy protein residue that
precipitates when beer is chilled but redissloves as the beer warms up.
citronellol >> a monoterpene alcohol that is
primarily biotransformed by yeast from geraniol
when high levels of linalool are present.

cold break >> rapid precipitation of proteins


that occurs when the wort is rapidly chilled
before pitching the yeast.
coolship >> a large shallow pan used to cool
wort using outside air temperature. During
the cooling process, naturally occurring
yeast from the air inoculates the wort.
Then the cooled wort is transferred into
fermentors.
conditioning >> a term for secondary
fermentation, in which the beer matures.
cone >> the part of the hops plant used in
brewing.
corn sugar >> dextrose. Sometimes added
as an adjunct in beer to raise alcohol
percentage and lighten the color of the beer.
-Ddecoction >> a mashing technique that
involves removing some of the mash to
another pot, boiling it, then returning it to
the mash tun to raise the temperature.
dextrin >> a complex sugar molecule,
not normally fermentable by yeast, that
contributes to body in beer.
diacetyl >> a powerful flavor chemical with
the aroma of butter or butterscotch.
diastase >> an enzyme complex in barley
and malt that is responsible for the
conversion of starch into sugars during the
mashing process.
dimethyl sulfide (DMS) >> a powerful
flavor chemical found in beer, with the
aroma of cooked corn or cabbage.
dough-in rest >> the process of mixing the
crushed malt with water in the beginning of
the mash operation.
dry-hopping >> adding hops directly to
the fermenter at the end of fermentation to
increase hop aroma without adding bitterness.
-Eendosperm >> the starchy middle of a
barley grain that is the source of fermentable
material for brewing.
enzymes >> proteins that act as catalysts for
most reactions crucial to brewing, including
starch conversion and yeast metabolism.

esters >> aromatic compounds formed from


yeasts complete oxidation of various alcohols
and responsible for most fruity aromas in beer.
ethanol >> the type of alcohol found in beer,
formed by yeast from malt sugars.
ethyl acetate >> a common ester in beer.
European Brewing Convention (EBC)
>> Most commonly encountered as a term
applied to malt color. EBC is about twice
Lovibond/SRM.
European Bitterness Unit (EBU) >>
equivalent to International Bittering Unit
(IBU).
extract >> concentrated wort in dry or syrup
form.
-Ffarnesene >> one of four primary essential
hops oils. Although farnesene makes up a
very low percentage of total oil in most hop
varieties, it is considered significant because
it makes up a substantial proportion of some
noble hops.
fatty acid >> among the secondary elements
that are produced during fermentation and
create much of a beers flavor.
fermentation >> yeasts biochemical process
involving the metabolism of sugars and the
release of CO2 and alcohol.
finings >> clarifying agents that are added
post-fermentation to help pull suspended
yeast, malt proteins, and polyphenols out of
the beer.
firkin >> British cask containing 10.8 U.S. or
9 Imperial gallons (40.9 liters).
first runnings >> the first few quarts of
wort that are drained off at the beginning of
runoff until the draining wort is fairly clear.
flocculation >> the clumping together and
settling of the yeast out of solution.
fusel alcohol >> a group of more complex
alcohols that esterify under normal
conditions. In beer, fusel alcohols can be
produced by excessive amounts of yeast.
FWH >> first wort hopping is a process that
involves adding finishing hops to the boil
kettle as the wort is drained from the lauter
or mash tun.
-Ggelatin >> one of several fining agents.
gelatinization >> the process of breaking
down the starch granules in corn or other
unmalted cereals to make the starch
accessible for conversion into sugar.
geraniol >> one of many hop compounds.
Researchers have determined that citronellol
is primarily generated from geraniol when
high levels of linalool are present.
germination >> the process by which the
barley shoot begins to grow and emerge
from the hull.
glucanase >> an enzyme that acts on the
beta glucans of unmalted barley, oatmeal,
rye, and wheat.

glucose >> corn sugar or dextrose, the most


common type of sugar.
gravity (specific gravity) >> describes the
concentration or density of malt sugar in the
wort.
grist >> ground grain ready for brewing.
-Hhardness >> a term indicating the presence
of water mineral levels.
hops >> a climbing vine of the
Cannabacinae family, whose cones
are used to give beer its bitterness and
characteristic aroma.
hopback >> a sealed container that is filled
with whole hops and inserted in line as
the wort is transferred into the fermenter.
The hops add aroma and act as a filter for
removing the break material.
hot break >> (also known as hot trub) the
rapid coagulation of proteins and tannins
that forms a brown scum on top of the wort
as the boil begins.
humulene >> one of the chemicals that give
hops their characteristic aroma.
husk >> the outer covering of barley or other
grains.
hydrolysis >> in homebrewing, the process
by which the addition of water breaks down
proteins and carbohydrates.
hydrometer >> a glass instrument used in
brewing to measure the specific gravity of
beer and wort to calculate alcohol percentage
and fermentation status.
-IIBU (international bittering unit) >>
the accepted method of expressing hop
bitterness in beer.
impact hops >> also called special flavor
hops. Hops varietals bred to exhibit
such flavor and aroma attributes as pine,
pineapple, grapefruit, mango, lychee, and
gooseberries.
infusion >> a mashing technique where
heating is accomplished with addition of
boiling water.
Irish moss (also called carrageen) >> a
marine algae used to promote the formation
of break material and precipitation during
the boil.
isinglass >> a fining agent that comes from
the clear swim bladder of some fish.
iso-alpha acid >> predominant source of
bitterness in beer. Derived from the hops
during the boil.
isomerization >> the chemical change
during wort boiling that causes hop alpha
acids to become more bitter and soluble in
wort.
-Kkettle >> boiling vessel, also known as a copper.
kraeusen >> as a noun, the thick foamy
head on fermenting beer. As a verb,
a priming method where vigorously

fermenting young beer is added to beer


during secondary fermentation.
-Llactic acid >> a tart, sour acid that is a byproduct of Lactobacillus.
Lactobacillus >> large genus of bacteria.
Some species are used in the production of
yogurt, sauerkraut, pickles, and some beers.
lactose >> an unfermentable sugar that comes
from milk. Traditionally used in milk stout.
lag time >> adaptation phase after the yeast
is pitched during which the yeast begins a
period of rapid aerobic growth.
lager >> a beer brewed with a bottomfermenting yeast between 4555F (713C)
and given 46 weeks to ferment. The lager
family includes light, pilsner, amber, bock,
and dark.
lautering >> a process in which the mash
is separated into the liquid wort and the
residual grain.
lauter tun >> traditional vessel used to
separate the wort from the residual grains.
lightstruck >> a skunky off-flavor in beer
that develops from exposure to shortwavelength light.
linalool >> one of many hop compounds.
Although linalool constitutes a tiny
percentage of hop oils, combined with
geraniol, it strongly affects the aroma of
beer.
lipid >> types of fat in animal and plant
matter.
liquification >> the process by which alpha
amylase breaks up the branched amylopectin
molecules in the mash.
Lovibond >> a method of measuring beer
and grain color, superseded by the SRM
method for beer, but still often used in
reference to grain color.
lupulin >> hops resiny substance that
contains all the resins and aromatic oils.
-MMaillard browning >> a caramelization
reaction that creates malts roasted color and
flavor.
malt >> barley or other grain that has been
allowed to sprout, then dried or roasted.
maltose >> a simple sugar that is the
predominant fermentable material in wort.
mash >> the hot-water steeping process in
which starch is converted into sugars.
mash tun >> vessel with a false bottom in
which mashing is carried out.
melanoidins >> the strong flavor
compounds produced by Maillard browning.
milling >> grinding or crushing grain.
modification >> the degree to which the
protein-starch matrix breaks down during
malting.
mouthfeel >> sensory qualities of a beer other
than flavor, such as body and carbonation.
myrcene>> one of four primary essential hop
oils. Also found in bay, wild thyme, and parsley.
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 109

| BREWING GLOSSARY |

-Ooriginal gravity (OG) >> measure of wort


strength expressed as specific gravity.
oxidation >> chemical reaction that occurs
between oxygen and various components in
beer.
-Pparti-gyle >> to get multiple beers out of
the same mash. The brewer boils successive
runnings separately and, ideally, blends
them to different strengths.
pasteurization >> the process of sterilizing
by heat.
peptidase >> an enzyme that breaks up
small proteins in the endosperm to form
amino acids.
peptide >> a short fragment of a protein.
pH (potential of hydrogen) >> the scale
used to express the level of acidity and
alkalinity in a solution. Neutral is a value of
7; most acidic is a value of 1; most alkaline is
a value of 14.
phenol >> chemical family responsible for
spicy, smoky, clove-like, and other aromas
in beer.
pitch >> adding yeast to the fermentor.
Plato >> European and American scale of
gravity based on a percentage of pure sugar
in the wort. A newer, more accurate version
of the Balling scale.
polishing >> final filtration before bottling
that leaves beer sparkling clear.
polyphenol >> tannins that contribute to
haze and staling reactions.
polysaccharide >> polymers of simple
sugars.
ppm >> parts per million. 1 milligram per
liter. Most commonly used to express
dissolved mineral concentrations in water.
precipitation >> a chemical process
involving a material coming out of solution.
primary fermentation >> initial rapid stage
of yeast activity when maltose and other
simple sugars are metabolized.
priming >> adding a small amount of sugar
to beer before bottling to restart fermentation
and give the beer carbonization.
protein >> complex organic molecules

involved in enzyme activity, yeast nutrition,


head retention, and colloidal stability.
proteinase (protease) >> an enzyme that
breaks proteins apart into smaller, more
soluble units. The breaking up of the
proteins is called proteolysis.
protein rest >> during mashing, a rest that
allows remnant large proteins to be broken
down into smaller proteins and amino acids
and any remaining starches to be released
from the endosperm.
-Rracking >> carefully siphoning the beer away
from the trub to another fermenter or to
bottles.
Reinheitsgebot >> Bavarian beer-purity law,
enacted in 1516 decreeing that beer can have
only three components: water, barley, and
hops.
runnings >> wort that is drained from the
mash during sparging.
-Ssaccharification >> conversion of starch to
sugars in the mash through enzymatic action.
Saccharomyces >> scientific genus name of
brewers yeast.
sanitize >> to reduce microbial
contaminants to insignificant levels.
secondary fermentation >> after the
primary fermentation, beer is racked to a
sterile container for a slower phase of yeast
activity during which complex sugars are
metabolized.
session beer >> a beer that is lighter in
gravity and alcohol (usually less than 4.5% ABV).
set mash >> during sparging, when the grain
bed plugs up and no liquid flows through it.
six-row >> the type of barley most often
grown in the United States and used in the
production of American-style beers.
sparge >> rinsing mashed grains with hot
water to recover all available wort sugars.
specific gravity >> a measurement of malt
sugar density in the wort, expressed relative
to the density of water.
SRM (Standard Reference Method) >> the
measurement of beer color.

starch >> complex carbohydrates that are


converted into sugars during mashing.
starch haze >> suspended starch particles
that cause cloudiness in beer.
steep >> soaking barley or wheat in water to
begin malting.
step mash >> mashing technique that uses
controlled temperature steps.
sterilize >> to eliminate all forms of life by
either chemical or physical means.
strike >> adding hot water to the crushed malt
to raise the temperature and begin mashing.
-Ttannins >> polyphenols, complex organic
materials with an astringent flavor, extracted
from barley husks and hops.
terpenes >> the flavor chemicals in hop oils.
trub >> the hot and cold break material, hop
bits, and dead yeast sediment at the bottom
of the fermenter.
two-row >> the most common type of barley
for brewing everywhere except America.
-Uunderlet >> adding water to a mash from
below to encourage quicker and more
thorough mixing of the grains and water.
-V, W, X, Y, ZVinnie nail >> attributed to Vinnie Cilurzo
from Russian River Brewing. Made of
stainless steel and typically 1.5" 2" long,
these are used to plug the small hole that
is drilled into a wooden barrel to retrieve a
sample of aging beer.
whirlpool >> a device that separates the
hops and trub from the wort after boiling.
wine thief >> an instrument used for taking
a sample of wine or beer from a fermenter.
wort >> the sugar-laden liquid from the
mash.
wort chiller >> a heat exchanger that rapidly
cools wort from near boiling to pitching
temperatures.
yeast >> a large class of microscopic fungi,
several species of which are used in brewing.
zymurgy >> the science of brewing and
fermentation.

Issue Date for Circulation Data Below, Winter 2014. Total Number of CopiesAverage number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twenty-five thousand sixty; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is twenty-nine thousand five hundred nineteen. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is
zero; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is zero;
number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and other Paid Distribution
Outside USPS Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is seven thousand thirty-nine; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is nine thousand fifty-six. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is one thousand nine hundred nine; number of copies of single issue published nearest to
filing date is three thousand two hundred sixty-two. Total Paid Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is eight thousand nine hundred forty-eight; number of copies of single
issue published nearest to filing date is twelve thousand three hundred eighteen. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12
months is zero; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding
12 months is zero; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months is three thousand one hundred ninety-eight; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is two thousand five hundred eighty-four. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside
the Mail Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is four hundred thirty-nine; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is one thousand two hundred. Total Free or
Nominal Rate Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is three thousand six hundred thirty-seven; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is three
thousand seven hundred eighty-four. Total Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twelve thousand five hundred eighty-five; number of copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date is sixteen thousand one hundred two. Copies not Distributed Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twelve thousand four hundred seventy-five; number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date is thirteen thousand four hundred seventeen. Total Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twenty-five thousand sixty; number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date is twenty-nine thousand five hundred nineteen. Percent Paid Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is seventy-one point one percent;
number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is seventy-six point five percent.

110 |

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

HOT

R
FE

1. THE MASH
(AND STEEP)

This process extracts


fermentable and
non-fermentable sugars from the grains as
well as valuable color,
flavor, and body.

2. THE BOIL

MEN

8. PITCH YEAST

Boiling not only


concentrates the
wort into a delicious
sugary liquid, it also
pulls bitterness from
the hops and causes
reactions that are
necessary for rigorous
fermentation.

Make sure that your


yeast and wort are
both at room temperature and then
add the yeast to your
fermenter.

7. OXYGENATE
WORT

Oxygen plays a key


role in jumpstarting the
yeasts fermentation
ability. While not
mandatory, adding
oxygen to your wort
via an aeration stone
or 02 tank is recommended.

3. ADD HOPS

Hops are generally


divided into two categoriesbittering hops
and aroma hops. The
longer you boil hops,
the more bitterness
you extract. Aroma
hops are added later
in the boil process to
preserve the essential
oils that contribute
their distinct aromatic
profiles.

6. TRANSFER TO
FERMENTER
5. CHILL WORT

Rapidly chilling
the wort helps add
clarity to the wort
and gets the wort
to a temperature
where it will be ready
to accept yeast.
Rapidly chilling also
decreases the chance
of potential bacterial
infection of the wort.

4. ADD MISC
(OPTIONAL)

9. RACK TO
SECONDARY

After primary fermentation is complete,


beer is racked to a
secondary fermenter.
This removes the
beer from the trub left
in the bottom of the
primary fermenter,
which has the
potential to produce
off-flavors.

10. DRY HOP

An optional step
based on the style of
beer and personal
taste, additional hops
are added to the
secondary fermenter
after primary fermentation is complete.
This process adds
hop aroma without
bitterness.

11. BOTTLE/KEG

Once fermentation
is complete, the beer
can then be racked
to either a bottling
bucket or keg. If bottling,
priming sugar is added
to the beer, giving the
yeast material with
which to carbonate
the beer in the bottle.
If kegging and force
carbonating, no
additional sugar is
required.

COLD

Toward the end of


the boil, recipes may
call for adding other
ingredients such as
brown sugar, spices,
extracts, or herbs.
Clarifying agents such
as Whirfloc or Irish
moss may also be
added at this time.

Homebrewing,
Start to Finish

ENJOY!

Once youve decided on a recipe or ordered your kit,


follow these eleven steps and youll be drinking great beer in no time!
BEERANDBREWING.COM

| 111

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FALSE BOTTOMS

Advertise
In The CB&B
Marketplace!

TO FIT ANY NEED

The Craft Beer & Brewing Marketplace


offers cost-effective ways to reach an
engaged craft beer and homebrewing
audience. To discuss advertising
options, contact:

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CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Visit www.tappecue.com

Alex Johnson

(Media Sales Manager)


888-875-8708 x707
ajohnson@beerandbrewing.com
@CraftBrewAL

LEARN
TO
BREW
With Craft Beer & Brewing
Online Classes!

Are you new to brewing, or do you want to improve your


brewing skills? Craft Beer & Brewings new online learning
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lesson at a time. Seven classes, led by CB&B staff or brewers
from renowned breweries, are now available for purchase,
either as individual classes or through a low monthly
subscription price that gives you access to all classes:
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Were adding new classes every month! For a free preview:

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Retail Shop Directory


Please visit one of these fine shops wherever you are.
If you would like to be listed in our directory, please contact Rachel Szado,
rszado@beerandbrewing.com, (888) 875-8708, ext 705.

Alabama
Wish You Were Beer
(256) 325-9992
7407 US Highway 72, Suite G
Madison, AL 35758
wishyouwerebeer.net
Alaska
Brew Time
(907) 479-0200
29 College Road Suite 4
Fairbanks, AK 99701
Alaska Home Brew Supply
(907) 863-0025
6033 Westview Circle
Wasilla, AK 99654
alaskahomebrew.com
Arizona
Brew Your Own Brew Gilbert
(480) 497-0011
525 E. Baseline Rd., Ste 108
Gilbert, AZ 85233
brewyourownbrew.com

Baycrest Wines & Spirits


(949) 293-3609
333 E. 17th Street Suite 1
Costa Mesa, CA 92627

HopTech Homebrewing
Supplies
(925) 875-0246
6398 Dougherty Rd., Ste 7
Dublin, CA 94568
hoptech.com
Operated by 2 passionate
home brewers. Over 60 hops,
loads of grain and extract.
Equipment and ingredients.
Military and AHA discount!
Humboldt Beer Works
(707) 442-6258
110 3rd Street Suite D
Eureka, CA 95501
humboldtbeerworks.com

What Ales Ya Homebrew


(623) 486-8016
6363 W. Bell Rd., Ste 2
Glendale, AZ 85308
whatalesya.com

OShea Brewing Co.


(949) 364-4440
28142 Camino Capistrano,
Ste. 107
Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
osheabrewing.com

Brew Your Own Brew


Scottsdale
(480) 625-4200
8230 E. Raintree Rd. #103
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
brewyourownbrew.com

Beltramos
(650) 325-2806
1540 El Camino Real
Menlo Park, CA 94025
beltramos.com

Brew Your Own Brew Tuscon


(520) 322-5049
2564 N. Campbell Ave.
Tuscon, AZ 85719
brewyourownbrew.com
Arkansas
Hydro & Brew
(479) 268-3423
2906 Bell Vista Way
Bella Vista, AR 72714
hydroandbrew.com
California
CRAFT Beer & Wine
(510) 769-9463
2526 A Santa Clara Ave
Alameda, CA 94501
craftalameda.com
Fermentation Solutions
(408) 871-1400
2507 Winchester Blvd.
Campbell, CA 95008
fermentationsolutions.com

116 |

Murrieta Homebrew
Emporium
(951) 600-0008
38750 Sky Canyon Dr., Ste A
Murrieta, CA 92563
murrietahomebrew.com
J&M Brewing Supplies
(415) 883-7300
101 Roblar Dr. Suite C
Novato, CA 94949
jmbrew.com
The Bearded Brewer
(661) 418-6348
4855 W. Columbia Way
Quartz Hill, CA 93536
NorCal Brewing Solutions
(530) 243-2337
1768 Churn Creek Rd.
Redding, CA 96002
norcalbrewingsolutions.com
The Cellar
(949) 212-6182
156 Avenida Del Mar
San Clemente, CA 92672
thecellarsite.com

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

The Homebrewer
(619) 450-6165
2911 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 2
San Diego, CA 92104
thehomebrewersd.com
Pacific Brewing Supplies
(800) 448-2337
240 S. San Dimas Ave
San Dimas, CA 91773
pacificbrewingsupplies.com
Boynton Liquors
(408) 823-0105
3680 Stevens Creek Blvd
San Jose, CA 95117
www.site.boyntonliquors.com
Seven Bridges Co-op
Organic Homebrew
(800) 768-4409
325 River St., Ste A
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
breworganic.com
Simi Valley Homebrew
(805) 583-3110
4352 Eileen Street
Simi Valley, CA 93063
simivalleyhomebrew.com
Valley Brewers
(805) 691-9159
515 4th Pl.
Solvang, CA 93463
valleybrewers.com
Colorado
The Brew Hut
(303) 680-8898
15120 E. Hampden Ave.
Aurora, CO 80014
thebrewhut.com
Avon Liquor
(970) 949-4384
100 West Beaver Creek Blvd
Avon, CO 81620
avon-liquor.com
Boulder Wine Merchant
(303) 443-6761
2690 Broadway St
Boulder, CO 80304
boulderwine.com
Hazels Beverage World
(303) 447-1955
1955 28th St.
Boulder, CO 80301
hazelsboulder.com
Boulder Fermentation
Supply
(303) 578-0041
2510 47th St. Unit I
Boulder, CO 80301
boulderfermentationsupply.
com

Castle Rock Homebrew


Supply
(303) 660-2275
1043 Park Street
Castle Rock, CO 80109
castlerockhomebrew.com
Fermentations
(719) 598-1164
6820 N. Academy Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80918
fermentations.biz
Cheers Liquor Mart
(719) 574-2244
1105 N Circle Dr.
Colorado Springs, CO 80909
cheersliquormart.com
Acme Liquor
(970) 349-5709
510 Belleview Ave.
Crested Butte, CO 81224
acmeliquor.com
Park Avenue Wine & Spirits
(303) 477-5700
3480 Park Ave W., Ste E
Denver, CO 80216
parkavewineandspirits.com
Argonaut Wine & Liquor
(303) 831-7788
760 E. Colfax Ave
Denver, CO 80203
argonautliquor.com
Beer At Home
(303) 789-3676
4393 S. Broadway
Englewood, CO 80113
beerathome.com
Rambos Longhorn Liquor
Mart
(970) 586-8583
1640 Big Thompson Ave.
Estes Park, CO 80517
ramboslonghornliquor.com
Mile High Ace
(303) 531-2375
2800 W. 104th Ave
Federal Heights, CO 80234
milehighaceandgarden.com

287 Craft Spirits


(970) 377-0557
5846 S College Ave
Fort Collins, CO 80525
287discountliquor.com
Pringles Fine Wine & Spirits
(970) 221-1717
2100 W. Drake Rd.
Fort Collins, CO 80526
pringleswine.com
Hops and Berries
(970) 493-2484
1833 E. Harmony Rd. Unit 16
Fort Collins, CO 80528
hopsandberries.com
Old Town Liquor
(970) 493-0443
214 S. College Ave Suite 1
Fort Collins, CO 80524
The Welsh Rabbit Cheese
Shop
(970) 443-4027
216 Pine Street
Fort Collins, CO 80524
thewelshrabbit.com
Toms Brew Shop
(303) 232-5347
883 Parfet St., Ste J
Lakewood, CO 80215
tomsbrewshop.com
Barley Haven Homebrew
(303) 936-2337
1050 South Wadsworth Blvd.
Suite B
Lakewood, CO 80226
barleyhaven.com
Warhammer Supply
(970) 635-2602
1112 Monroe Ave.
Loveland, CO 80537
warhammersupply.com
Quirky Homebrew
(303) 457-3555
425 W 115th Ave Unit 6
Northglenn, CO 80234
quirkyhomebrew.com

Als Newsstand
(970) 482-9853
177 North College Ave
Fort Collins, CO 80524

Bruin Spirits
(303) 840-1678
11177 S. Dransfeldt Rd
Parker, CO 80134
bruinspiritsinc.com

Hops and Berries


(970) 493-2484
130 W. Olive St. Unit B
Fort Collins, CO 80524
hopsandberries.com

Big Bear Wine & Liquor


(719) 561-8542
2037 S. Pueblo Blvd
Pueblo, CO 81005
liquorstorepueblo.com

Savory Spice Shop


(970) 682-2971
123 N. College Ave. #100
Fort Collins, CO 80524
myecard.pro/savory

Barley Haven Draft n Still


(303) 789-2337
4131 South Natches Court
Unit B
Sheridan, CO 80110
barleyhaven.com

Ski Haus Liquors


(970) 879-7278
1450 S. Lincoln Ave
Steamboat Springs, CO
80477

Carters Beer and Wine


Crafters
(941) 753-0011
1070 Whitfield Ave.
Sarasota, FL 34243

Brewers Haven (Nampa)


(208) 461-3172
1311 12th Ave. Rd
Nampa, ID 83686
www.brewershaven.com

Applejack Wine & Spirits


(303) 233-3331
3320 Youngfield St.
Wheat Ridge, CO 80033
applejack.com

Georgia

Rocky Mountain Homebrew


Supply
(208) 745-0866
218 N 4000 E.
Rigby, ID 83442
rockymountainhomebrew.com

Kitchen & Homebrew Supply


(719) 687-0557
118 W. Midland Ave.
Woodland Park, CO 80863
kitchenandhomebrewsupply.
com
Connecticut
Stomp N Crush
(860) 552-4634
140 Killingsworth Turnpike
(Rt.81)
Clinton, CT 06413
stompncrush.com
Maltose Express
(203) 452-7332
246 Main Street
Monroe, CT 06468
maltoseexpress.net
Zoks Homebrewing and
Winemaking Supplies
(860) 456-7704
18 North St.
Willimantic, CT 06232
homemadebrew.net
Florida
Brew Story
(239) 494-1923
20451 S. Tamiami Trail #11
Estero, FL 33928
Hanger 41 Winery and Brew
Shop
(239) 542-9463
10970 South Cleveland Ave.,
Unit 304
Fort Myers, FL 33907
www.timetomakewine.com
Hop Heads Craft
Homebrewing Supplies
(850) 586-7626
26C NW Racetrack Road
Fort Walton Beach, FL 32547
hopheadsfwb.com

Wine Workshop & Brew


Center Inc.
(404) 228-5211
627-F East College Ave
Decatur, GA 30030
wineworkshop.net
Taps Craft Beers
(404) 996-6939
1248 Clairmont Rd.
Decatur, GA 30030
tapscraftbeers.com
Beverage World
(706) 866-5644
1840 Lafayette Rd.
Fort Oglethorpe, GA 30742
ourbeers.com
Operation Homebrew
(770) 638-8383
1142 Athens Hwy #105
Grayson, GA 30017
operationhomebrew.com
Hops & Barley Craft Beer
(912) 657-2006
412 MLK Jr. Blvd
Savannah, GA 31401
hopsandbarleysav.com
Savannah Homebrew Shop
(912) 201-9880
2102 Skidway Rd
Savannah, GA 31404
savannahhomebrew.com

Barley & Vine


(770) 507-5998
1445 Rock Quarry Road #202
Stockbridge, GA 30281
barleynvine.com
Craft Beer (draft/bottled/
kegged), Wine, Cider, and
Mead. Supplies to make your
own beer, wine, cider, mead
or cheese.
Idaho

Biscayne Home Brew


(305) 479-2691
7939 Biscayne Blvd.
Miami, FL 33138
biscaynehomebrew.com

Brewers Haven (Boise)


(208) 991-4677
1795 S. Vista Ave.
Boise, ID 83705
www.brewershaven.com

Sanford Homebrew Shop


(407) 732-6931
115 S. Magnolia Ave.
Sanford, FL 32771
sanfordhomebrewshop.com

HomeBrewStuff
(208) 375-2559
9165 W. Chinden Blvd.,
Ste103
Garden City, ID 83714
homebrewstuff.com

Indiana

Maryland

Great Fermentations
(317) 268-6776
7900 E. US 36 West
Avon, IN 46123
greatfermentations.com

Nepenthe Homebrew
(443) 438-4846
3600 Clipper Mill Road 130A
Baltimore, MD 21211
nepenthehomebrew.com

Illinois

DIY Coffee and Ale Supply


(574) 370-2578
114 East Washington St.
Goshen, IN 46528
facebook.com/
diycoffeeandalesupply

Maryland Homebrew
(888) 273-9669
6770 Oak Hall Lane #108
Columbia, MD 21045
marylandhomebrew.com

Bev Art Brewer & Winemaker


Supply
(773) 233-7579
10033 S. Western Ave.
Chicago, IL 60643
bev-art.com

Brewhouse Supplies
(219) 286-7285
1555 West Lincolnway,
Ste102
Valparaiso, IN 46385
brewhousesupplies.com

Brew & Grow


(312) 243-0005
19 S. Morgan St.
Chicago, IL 60618
brewandgrow.com

Iowa

Brew & Grow


(773) 463-7430
3625 N. Kedzie Ave.
Chicago, IL 60618
brewandgrow.com
Brew & Grow
(815) 301-4950
176 W. Terra Cotta Ave.
Suite A
Crystal Lake, IL 60014
brewandgrow.com
North Shore Brewing Supply
(847) 831-0570
1480 Old Deerfield Rd Suite
15
Highland Park, IL 60035
northshorebrewingsupply.com
Perfect Brewing Supply
(847) 816-7055
619 E. Park Ave.
Libertyville, IL 60048
perfectbrewsupply.com
Windy Hill Hops
(312) 834-4677
139 Windy Hill Rd.
Murphysboro, IL 62966
www.windyhillhops.com
Brew & Grow
(630) 894- 4885
359 W. Irving Park Rd.
Roselle, IL 60172
brewandgrow.com
Home Brew Shop Ltd.
(630) 377-1338
225 W. Main St.
Saint Charles, IL 60174
homebrewshopltd.com

Flying Barrel
(301) 663-4491
1781 N. Market St.
Federick, MD 21701
flyingbarrel.com
Massachusetts
Craft Beer Cellar Belmont
(617) 932-1885
51 Leonard St.
Belmont, MA 02478
craftbeercellar.com

C & S Brew Supply


(515) 963-1965
315 SW Maple St
Ankeny, IA 50023
www.candsbrewsupply.com
Kansas
All Grain Brewing Specialists
LLC
(785) 230-2145
1235 NW 39th
Topeka, KS 66618
allgrainbrewing.biz

Baystate Foods & Spirits


(617) 232-2587
1418 Beacon St.
Brookline, MA 02446
Homebrew Emporium
(617) 498-0400
2304 Massachusetts Ave
Cambridge, MA 02140
beerbrew.com
Corks Fine Wine & Liquors
(508) 337-9463
309 West Street
Mansfield, MA 02048
corksfinewine.com

Kentucky
Winemakers & Beermakers
Supply
(502) 425-1692
9475 Westport Rd.
Louisville, KY 40241
winebeersupply.com
Louisiana
Baton Rouges Premier
Liquor Store
(225) 364-2248
3911 Perkins Road
Baton Rouge, LA 70808

Strange Brew
(508) 460-5050
416 Boston Post Rd. East
(Route 20)
Marlboro, MA 01752
Home-Brew.com
Visit New Englands Largest
Retail Home-Brew Store! Save
10% off Craft Beer & Brewing
online courses with coupon
code strangebrew.

LA Homebrew
(225) 773-9128
7987 Pecue Lane Suite 8-H
Baton Rouge, LA 70809
lahomebrew.com
Brewstock
(504) 208-2788
3800 Dryades St.
New Orleans, LA 70115
brewstock.com
Brewniverse
(318) 671-4141
855 Pierremont Rd. Suite 124
Shreveport, LA 71106
brewniversebeerstore.com

Craft Beer Cellar Newton


(617) 916-0244
1243 Centre St.
Newton, MA 02459
craftbeercellar.com
Austin Liquors Shrewbury
(508) 755-8100
20 Boston Turnpike Rd.
Shrewbury, MA 01545
austinliquors.com

BEERANDBREWING.COM

116_CBB5_Directory.indd 117

| 117

12/19/14 1:33 PM

Retail Shop Directory


Ball Square Fine Wines
(617) 623-9500
716 Broadway
Somerville, MA 02144
ballsquarefinewines.com
Craft Beer Cellar Winchester
(781) 369-1174
18 Thompson Street
Winchester, MA 01890
craftbeercellar.com
Beer and Wine Hobby
(781) 933-8818
155 T New Boston St
Woburn, MA 01801
beer-wine.com

Minnesota

New Jersey

Natural Harvest Food Co-op


(218) 741-4663
505 N. 3rd Street
Virginia, MN 55792
naturalharvestfoodcoop.com

The Brewers Apprentice


(732) 863-9411
865 State Route 33, Ste 4
Freehold, NJ 07728
brewapp.com

Mississippi

Love2Brew
(888) 654-5511
1583 Livingston Ave. Unit #2
North Brunswick, NJ 08902
love2brew.com

Brew Ha Ha Homebrew
Supply
(601) 362-0201
4800 I-55 North Suite 17A
Jackson, MS 39211
brewhahasupply.com
Missouri

Austin Liquors Worcester


(508) 852-8953
117 Gold Star Blvd
Worcester, MA 01606
austinliquors.com

Brew & Wine Supply


(636) 797-8155
10663 Business 21
Hillsboro, MO 63050
brewandwinesupply.com

Michigan

Grains & Taps


(816) 866-5827
224 SE Douglas St.
Lees Summit, MO 64063
grains-taps.myshopify.com

Adventures In Homebrewing
(313) 277-2739
6071 Jackson Rd.
Ann Arbor, MI 48103
www.homebrewing.org
Serving HomeBrewers Since
1999. We specialize in Beer
Making, Wine Making and
Kegging.
Sicilianos Market
(616) 453-9674
2840 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids, MI 49504
sicilianosmkt.com
Bells General Store
(269) 382-5712
355 E. Kalamazoo Ave
Kalamazoo, MI 49007
bellsbeer.com
Capital City Homebrew
Supply
(517) 374-1070
2006 E. Michigan Ave.
Lansing, MI 48912
capitalcityhomebrewsupply.
com
Pere Marquette Expeditions
(231) 845-7285
1649 South Pere Marquette
Hwy
Ludington, MI 49431
pmexpeditions.com
Cap N Cork Homebrew
Supply
(586) 286-5202
16776 21 Mile Road
Macomb, MI 48044
capncorkhomebrew.com

118 |

Montana
Hennessy Market
(406) 723-3097
32 East Granite St.
Butte, MT 59701
hennessymarket.com
Rock Hand Hardware
(406) 442-7770
2414 N. Montana Ave
Helena, MT 59601
rockhandacehardware.com
Summer Sun Garden & Brew
(406) 541-8623
838 West Spruce Street
Missoula, MT 59802
summersungardenandbrew.
com
Nebraska
Kirks Brew
(402) 476-7414
1150 Cornhusker Hwy
Lincoln, NE 68521
kirksbrew.com
Nevada
BrewChatter
(775) 358-0477
1275 Kleppe Ln. Unit 21
Sparks, NV 89431
brewchatter.com
New Hampshire
Kettle to Keg
(603) 485-2054
123 Main Street
Suncook, NH 03275
kettletokeg.com

New York
Astoria Beer and Brew
(718) 606-0779
2176 21st Street
Astoria, NY 11105
astoriabeerandbrew.com
Dunkirk Homebrew Supplies
(716) 679-7977
3375 East Main Road
Dunkirk, NY 14048
dunkirkhomebrew.com
Arbor Wine and Beer
Supplies
(631) 277-3004
184 Islip Ave
Islip, NY 11751
arborwine.com
Pantanos Wine Grapes &
Homebrew
(845) 255-5201
249 Rte. 32 South
New Paltz, NY 12561
pantanosbeerwine.com

Atlantic Brew Supply


(919) 400-9087
3709 Neil Street
Raleigh, NC 27607
atlanticbrewsupply.com
Whether you homebrew, new
to the commercial brewing
scene, or expanding, Atlantic
Brew Supply is ready to set
you up!
Ohio
The Hops Shack
(419) 617-7770
1687 Marion Rd.
Bucyrus, OH 44820
hopshack.com
Wolfs Premium Nuts &
Crafts
(419) 423-1355
1016 Tiffin Ave.
Findlay, OH 45840
wolfiesnuts.com
The PumpHouse Homebrew
Shop
(330) 755-3642
336 Elm St.
Struthers, OH 44471
pumphousehomebrew.com
Oklahoma

Saratoga Zymurgist
(518) 580-9785
112 Excelsior Ave.
Saratoga Springs, NY 12866
saratogaz.com

High Gravity
(918) 461-2605
7142 S. Memorial Drive
Tulsa, OK 74133
highgravitybrew.com

Hop & Goblet


(315) 790-5946
2007 Genesee St
Utica, NY 13501

Oregon

North Carolina
Bull City Homebrew
(919) 682-0300
1906 E. NC Hwy 54, Suite
200-B
Durham, NC 27713
bullcityhomebrew.com

The Brew Shop


(541) 323-2318
1203 NE Third Street
Bend, OR 97701
thebrewshopbend.com

Above The Rest Beer & Wine


Homebrewing Supplies
(503) 968-2736
11945 SW Pacific Hwy, #235
Tigard, OR 97223
atr-homebrewing.com
Pennsylvania
In and Out Beverage
(717) 264-2614
1106 Sheller Ave.
Chambersburg, PA 17201
Simply Homebrew
(570) 788-2311
2 Honey Hole Rd.
Drums, PA 18222
simplyhomebrew.com
Wine, Barley & Hops
Homebrew Supply
(215) 322-4780
248 Bustleton Pike
Feasterville Trevose, PA 19053
winebarleyandhops.com
Windsor Distributing
(610) 562-2474
800 South 4th Street.
Hamburg, PA 19526
windsordist.com
Hamlin Distributors
(570) 689-2891
590 Hamlin Highway
Hamlin, PA 18427
hamlindistributors.com
Scotzin Bros
(717) 737-0483
65 C North Fifth St.
Lemoyne, PA 17043
scotzinbros.com
Weak Knee Home Brew
Supply
(610) 327-1450
1277 N.Charlotte St
Pottstown, PA 19464
weakkneehomebrew.com
Bailees Homebrew & Wine
Supplies
(717) 755-7599
2252 Industrial Hwy
York, PA 17402
baileeshomebrew.com
South Carolina

F.H. Steinbart Co.


(503) 232-8793
234 SE 12th Ave
Portland, OR 97214
fhsteinbart.com
F.H. Steinbart, Americas
oldest home brew supply
store, offers products and
services from starter kits to
professional draft equipment.

Liquid Hobby
(803) 798-2033
736-F St. Andrews Road
Columbia, SC 29210
liquidhobby.com
Tennessee
Rebel Brewer
(615) 859-2188
105 Space Park North
Goodlettsville, TN 37072
rebelbrewer.com

CRAFT BEER & BREWING

116_CBB5_Directory.indd 118

12/19/14 1:33 PM

Advertiser Index
Bernoulli Brew Werks
(256) 273-9766
2881 Poplar Ave.
Memphis, TN 38111
bernoullibrews.com

Craft Beer Cellar Waterbury


(802) 882-8034
3 Elm St.
Waterbury, VT 05676
craftbeercellar.com

Texas

Virgina

Stubbys Texas Brewing Inc.


(682) 647-1267
5200 Airport Freeway, Suite B
Haltom City, TX 76117
txbrewing.com
Black Hawk Brewing Supply
(254) 393-0491
582 E. Central Texas
Expressway
Harker Heights, TX 76548
blackhawkbrewing.com
DeFalcos Home Wine and
Beer Supplies
(800) 216-2739
9223 Stella Link Rd.
Houston, TX 77025
defalcos.com
Texas Homebrewers
(855) 744-2739
3130 North Fry Rd., Ste 800
Katy, TX 77449
texashomebrewers.com
Yellow House Canyon Brew
Works
(806) 744-1917
601 N. University Ave.
Lubbock, TX 79408
www.
yellowhousecanyonbrewworks.
com
Cypress Grape and Grain
(832) 698-1402
24914 State Hwy 249 Suite
145
Tomball, TX 77375
cypressgrapeandgrain.com
Utah

Salt City Brew Supply


(801) 849-0955
750 E. Fort Union Blvd.
Midvale, UT 84047
saltcitybrewsupply.com
Call us with your brewing
questions and make whatever
beer you want with our
selection of hops, yeast, and
grain.
Vermont
Brewfest Beverage Co.
(802) 228-4261
199 Main St.
Ludlow, VT 05149
brewfestbeverage.com

My LHBS
(703) 241-3874
6201 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, VA 22044
mylhbs.com
Huge selection of ingredients
and equipment conveniently
located inside the Beltway.
Check out our unique and
delicious store recipe kits!
Wine and Cake Hobbies
(757) 857-0245
6527 Tidewater Dr.
Norfolk, VA 23509
wineandcake.com
Washington
Olympic Brewing
(360) 373-1094
2817 Wheaton Way #102
Bremerton, WA 98310
olybrew.com
Homebrew Heaven
(425) 355-8865
9121 Evergreen Way.
Everett, WA 98204
homebrewheaven.com
San Juan Island Cheese
(360) 370-5115
155 Nichols St.
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
sjicheese.com
Whidbey Island Homebrew
Supply
(360) 682-5011
3161 Goldie Rd., Ste H
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
whidbeyislandhomebrew.com
Sound Homebrew
(206) 734-8074
6505 5th Place S.
Seattle, WA 98108
soundhomebrew.com
International
Customers
Belgium
Malt Attacks
32 (0) 471/66.10.69
Av. Jean Volders 18
Brussels 1060

Canada
Canadian Home Brew
Supplies
(905) 450-0191
10 Wilkinson Rd. Unit 1
Brampton, ON L6T 5B1
homebrewsupplies.ca
The Vineyard Fermentation
Centre
(403) 258-1580
6025 Centre Street South
Calgary, AB T2H 0C2
thevineyard.ca
Germany

Hopfen und mehr


Rudenweiler 16
Tettnang 88069
www.hobbybrauerversand.de
In Germany? Were the
exclusive distributor of CB&B
magazine here! Check us out!
New Zealand

BrewShop
64 7 929 4547
PO Box 998
Hamilton 3240
brewshop.co.nz
BrewShop is the exclusive
distributor of Craft Beer
& Brewing Magazine to
independent retail shops in
New Zealand. Contact us
today!
Norway
Bakke Brygg AS
plus sign 47 73 20 16 40
Fjordgata 9B
Trondheim S-T N-7010
bakkebrygg.no
Portugal

Oficina da Cerveja
+ 351 911 555 851
Rua Bernardim Ribeiro 59
Lisbon 1150-069
www.oficinadacerveja.pt
Visit our website! Were the
exclusive distributor of Craft
Beer & Brewing Magazine
to independent retail shops in
Portugal.

Our advertisers help make it possible for


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best contributors, issue after issue!
21st Amendment
67
Allagash Brewing Company
53
Atlantic Brew Supply
5
Barley & Vine
113
Barley Haven
51
Beer Loved
113
Beer Snap
113
BH Enterprises
55
Blichmann Engineering, LLC
1
Brew & Wine Supply
33
Brew Heads
113
Brew Organic
61
Brewing Tools
53
Brewmation
43
Cicerone
27
Clawhammer Supply
23
Colorado Brewers Festival
88
K. Malt Inc./Corosys Kellerworks
25
Craft Beer Hound
33
Electric Brewing Supply
35
Epic Brewing
23
Five Star Chemicals
72
Fort Collins Brewery
7
Garage Monk
113
Grandstand
Inside Back Cover
Great Fermentations
55
Grog Tag
41
High Gravity
67
Krome Dispense
27
Label-Nator
87
LD Carlson
10
Left Hand Brewing
2
Love2Brew
35
Mad River Brewing
35
Millars Mills
39
Misco
67
Mr. Beer
10
Muntons Inc.
33
New Belgium Brewing
Back Cover
Nightclub & Bar Show
105
NorCal Brewing Solutions
114
Odell Brewing
13
Ohmbrew Automations
53
Pangea Designs
114
Rodenbach/Latis Imports
15
Ruby Street
39
Salt City Brewing Supply
114
Saranac Brewing
61
Ska Brewing
55
Society of Beer Travelers
114
Southern Tier Brewing
9
Ss Brewing Technologies
51
Tap n Handle
61
Tappecue
114
The Home Brewery
33
Thirsty Dog Brewing
39
Total Beverage
Inside Front Cover
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Tria Taproom
114
Vander Mill/Elite Brands USA
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Vin Table
55
Wild Goose Canning
31
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12/19/14 1:33 PM

PHOTOS: KIRBY LEE FOR FLOCASTS

| CHILL PLATE |

The Craft Beer Mile


History was made on December 3, 2014, in Austin, Texas, as Beth Herndon set a new womens world
record in the beer mile. Herndon, 29, chose to drink four cans of New Belgiums Fat Tire Ale en route
to her winning mile time of six minutes and seventeen seconds at the Flotrack Beer Mile World
Championships. Watch a replay of her impressive performance at flotrack.org/beermileworlds/ .

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