Shahi Unit 9-Libre

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
, Unit-9
CONTENTS
PAGES
Acknowledgement
02
1.0 Objective of the internship
03
2.0 Role of Garment Industry in Indian GDP
04
3.0 Introduction to the company
05
A. Departmental Study
4.0 Plant lay out
11
5.0 Merchandising
15
6.0 Sampling
18
7.0 Planning
21
8.0 Industrial Engineering Department
24
9.0 Fabric Store
29
10.0 Trim and Accessory Store
36
11.0 Cutting
40
12.0 Embroidery
48
13.0 Production (Sewing)
52
14.0 Washing
57
15.0 Quality Assurance
62
16.0 Finishing and Packaging
69
17.0 Human Resources
75
B. Style study
80
C. Appendixes
98
D. Project
116
18.0 Project I
Maintenance and machine movement database
117
19.0 Project II
Spare Register
132
20.0 Project III

On line implementation of finishing machine
153
21.0 Project IV
Efficiency Analysis
158
21.0 Learning Experience
167
Page 1
Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Acknowledgement
Our Internship at Shahi Exports Pvt. ltd., unit-09, Bengaluru was a fleeting journey of erudition
where we achieved an unparalleled blend of learning and experience. We would like to extend our
whole hearted thanks to the entire Shahi unit-9 Team for providing their immense support constantly.
Above all we would like to thank Mr. Sreedhar, General Manager
(Operations) and Mr. Mahadeve Gowda (AGM-HR), who made this internship possible for us. We
would also like to convey our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Raghuveer (factory manager). Considering our
exposure to all the departments, we would also extend our thanks Mr. Bheema Reddy, (I.E and
industry mentor) who helped us in every way he could. We also thank Ms. Pavitra (HR) and Ms.
Krishnapriya (IE) for their help and support.
We would also like to convey thanks to our institute National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur for arranging such an opportunity for us. We would also
extend our thanks to Mr. Chandramouli (assistant faculty and internship mentor, NIFT Kannur)
and Mr. Chakravarty (assistant faculty, NIFT Kannur) for helping and guiding us with our projects
and the documentation.
Without the help of these people, this Internship would not have been a success. So we thank them all from
the core of our heart.
Page 2

1.0 OBJECTIVE
Garment Industry is kind of a field where practical knowledge and personal experience matters the
most in tackling critical situations and taking major decisions. Thus on job experience is much needed
along with through subject knowledge.
The objective of this summer internship was:
To gain practical exposure on real life on job experience.
To apply the theoretical class room knowledge in practical situations.
It aims toward blending the theoretical knowledge with work experience.
To observe the process flow from order placement till shipment.
Learn the various manufacturing process.
To work on a mutually identified problem or assignment or project and work on it.
1.1 STATEMENT OF STUDY

To study the garment manufacturing process thoroughly, to observe and execute different department
functions and to execute small projects/assignments as per organizational need.
1.2 SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY

The study will help gain hands on experience on various manufacturing processes like cutting, sewing,
finishing, checking, data generation and use of IT tools in various stages of garment manufacturing.
Page 3

2.0 ROLE OF GARMENT INDUSTRY IN INDIAN GDP
The garment industry comprises manufacturers of ready-made garments for both the domestic and
export markets. This sector is one of the largest employer after agriculture and its importance in Indias
economy is recognized for its contribution to industrial production and export earnings.
The Apparel Manufacturing Industry transforms fabrics produced by textile manufacturers into clothing
and accessories that fill the retail stores. By cutting and sewing fabrics or other materials, such as
leather, rubberized fabrics, plastics, and furs, workers in this industry help to keep consumers warm,
dry and in style.
The apparel industry traditionally has consisted mostly of production workers who performed the cutting
and sewing functions in an assembly line. This industry remains labor-intensive, despite advances in
technology and workplace practices. Although many workers still perform this work in the United States,
the industry increasingly contracts out its production work to foreign suppliers to take advantage of
lower labor costs in other countries. In its place, a growing number of apparel manufacturers are
performing only the entrepreneurial functions involved in apparel manufacturing such as buying raw
materials, designing clothes and accessories and preparing samples, arranging for the production and
distribution of the apparel, and marketing the finished product.
As the opportunity increases the competition also increases. India is getting tough completion from
China, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh because of cheap labour and government policies. The textile and
apparel manufacturing industries are rapidly modernizing, as new investments in automation and
information technology have been made necessary by growing international competition.
Occupations provided by the Industry
The textile industry offers employment opportunities in a variety of occupations, but production occupations
accounted for 64 percent of all jobs. Some of these production occupations are unique to the industry.
Additional opportunities also exist in material-moving, administrative support, maintenance, repair,
management, and professional occupations. The industry also employs a small number of workers in
service and sales occupations.
Page 4

3.0 INTRODUCTION TO SHAHI
Shahi Export House stand steeped in time. The company started its operation way back in 1974 at Delhi,
Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. Expanded over 200
times in last 36 years. Today Shahi is a $120 million firm. Manufacturing with a work force of 18,000
employees out of which 70% are women. Established in Delhi, Shahi stands vertically integrated as one of the
largest manufacturers and exporters in India offering ready-to-wear garments for ladies, men and children.
Keeping in mind the demand and need to explore new markets with different product range, Shahi started its
knits Division in the year 2000 and home division in the year 2004. Shahi is a recognized Trading House and
have received many awards for outstanding export performance. Shahi is mainly recognized for its excellence
in quality, product range, service and reliability. Shahi is a privately owned but professionally managed
company with a competent core team, experienced managers to lead each manufacturing unit assisted by
production managers and merchandising heads.
3.1 MANUFACTURING CAPACITY
Shahi manufactures 6.7 million pcs of high quality wovens & knits per month and caters to all segments in the
apparel industry men, women and kids wear.
Over 4 million square feet is dedicated to the manufacturing units which are located in Delhi, Bangalore,
Tirupur and Salem.
3.2 CLIENTELE
Gap
Old Navy
Tommy Hilfiger
Guess
H&M
Pacsun
Decathlon
Debenhams
Express
Nautica
Sean Jean
Brooks Brothers
SSI
Chaps
Polo
J Crew
Target
JC Penny
PVH
Izod
Talbots
KDC
Sears
Aeo
A&F
Hollister
Liz Claiborne
Gymboree
Benetton
Kohl's
Federated
J Jill
Club Monaco
Eddie Bauer
French Cconnection
Armani Exchange
Page 5

3.3 PRODUCT RANGE
Menswear (MNB division)
PRODUCTS
Tops Casual Wear
Tops Semi Casual Wear

Bottoms Casual Wear
Bottoms Semi Casual Wear

Casual Non Lined Jackets
MATERIALS
100% cotton, poplins, twills, light canvas
Rib stop, Herringbone weave, Bedford cords, Sateen weave
Madras, special madras, seersuckers, dobbies and jacquards.
Mill made checks and stripes
100% Linen, checks and stripes, solids
Blended fabrics with chief value cotton blends, in solids, checks and stripes
Corduroy, Velvet
Womenswear Ladies Fashion Division

PRODUCTS
Blouses
Dresses
Skirts
Tunics
Camp Shirts
MATERIALS
Cotton Twill, Canvas, Cambric, Poplin, Voile, Jacquard, Texture, Yarn Dyes
Cotton Spandex
Cotton Nylon Spandex

Cotton Poly Spandex
Ringed Denim
Synthetics: Moss Crape, Terry Voile, Georgette, Burnout, and Velvet

Page 6

Womenswear Ladies Specialty Division
PRODUCTS
Woven Casual Tops
Woven Casual Bottoms

Knitted Tops
Wrinkle Free Shirts & Blouses
Dress Shirts
Denim Wear
MATERIALS
Cotton Voils / Cambric / Poplin / Twill / Denims / Wrinkle Free

Yarn Dyed / Jacquard / Velvet / Viscous / Dobby's / Schiffly's
Corduroy / Stretch / Georgette / Chiffon
Womenswear Bottoms
PRODUCTS
Chino shorts and pants
Cargo shorts and pants
Lounge pants
Basic Skirts in heavy weight fabrics' up to 9 0z
Cargo skirts
MATERIALS
All cotton woven fabrics like twills, canvas, rib stop, herring bone weave, Bedford cords,
corduroys, sateen weave etc.
Page 7

3.4 INFRASTRUCTURE
Shahi has more than 30 state of the art manufacturing facilities. The total production capacity of the
company is around 6.7 million per month (both woven and knits). It has over 24000 machines.
Washing and embroidery facilities of Shahi are the best in apparel sector in India. More than 90
Multi-head computerized embroidery machines having capacity of 40 billion stitches per month. 100
Front loading washing machines having facility of over 50 tones of garment per day. State-Of-theArt fabric processing/dyeing/printing plant.
The entire Shahi organization works on a single ERP system, which unifies the working of all the
departments. The ERP, Movex, is cross-functional and enterprise wide. This allows to typically
handling the manufacturing, logistics, distribution, inventory, shipping, invoicing, and accounting in
the company. This also synchronizes all business activities like sales, delivery, billing, production,
inventory management, quality management, and human resources management.
Through Enterprise Resource Planning, Shahi has amalgamated the company's information
systems & have designed it to bind more closely all company functions including human resources,
inventories and financials while simultaneously linking the company to customers and vendors.
Modules like CRM, SRM, SCM and EPM not only give efficient services to customers but also help
to deal effectively with suppliers.
Awards
Best exporters Award from AEPC
Best Vendor of the year rated by Wal-Mart/JC Penney/ Target.
Best Manufacturing facilities rated by NIFT.

3.5 SHAHI IN BANGALORE
Bangalore operations of Shahi started on July 01, 1988 with 250 Associates and 104 machines.
Since its inception Bangalore, operations have expanded by 50 times in 20 years.
All activities in woven section are being monitored by zonal head office i.e. Unit 7 as it is a
centralized organization. Major decisions in departments like merchandising, executive planning,
sourcing etc are being taken and executed by this unit only and informed to the other units as and
when required.
Page 8
NAME OF FACTORY
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
FACTORY CODE
Unit-09
YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT
2008
DATE OF COMMENCEMENT OF
2008
PRODUCTION
SECTOR
Private Ltd., Export House
ANNUAL TURNOVER
Rs. 150 crores
EMPLOYEE STRENGTH
4000 capacity, currently-3,100
HEAD OFFICE
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-7 (Bengaluru operations),

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Faridabad (All operations)
FACTORY ADDRESS
th
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, 171, 7 Main Road, Industrial Suburb, Peenya
2nd Stage, 3rd Phase, BBMP ward no. II, Bengaluru- 560058, INDIA
PRODUCT CATEGORY
Ladies Specialty Division (LSD & LFD)- Tops, dresses etc
FABRICS BEING HANDLED
100% cotton, Cotton spandex blends, Cotton satin blends, Silk, Chiffon
Cotton polyester nylon blends.
Centralized decision all major mill made and power loom

FABRIC SUPPLIERS
suppliers in India and abroad, Main suppliers include Arvind,

JCT Textiles, Indus Fila, Bombay Rayon, Alok Industries, Henly
Ltd, Vardhaman Ltd etc.
CLIENTELE
All major brands in USA and Europe. Refer page 5.
MONTHLY PRODUCTION
3,00,000/ month
CAPACITIES
Page 9
Departmental Studies
Page 10

4.0 PLANT LAYOUT OF UNIT 9:
Shahi unit 9 has a total area of 100000 square meters. It is a production unit having four floors and a
basement facility for washing and other departments also. The roof top is designed for the canteen
facility and training purpose.
Ground Floor (Not to scale)
Page 11
Floor 1 to 4 (Not to scale)
Page 12
Basement (Not to Scale)
Page 13

The plant lay out has designed in order to effectively utilize the entire area. As shown in previous
diagrams it can be figured out easily that each floor has entire set of processes that makes each floor
self sufficient to some extent.
The details of each floor are:Basement: Trim store, Maintenance Department, Washing unit, Dispatch zone
Ground Floor: Fabric store, Sampling, CAD, Cutting, Embroidery, IED, Planning and other
administrative staff.
1st Floor: Sewing (Production), Finishing, Packaging.
2nd Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
3rd Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
4th Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
5th Floor: Roof top designed for canteen and training of operators.
1st Floor
2nd Floor
Basement
Ground floor
3rd Floor
4th Floor
Material Flow in between the floor
Page 14

5.0 MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start
to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work
together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made
according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
5.1 Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders, costing, product development and it has direct contact
with the buyer.
5.2 Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:
Product Development
Selling the concept
Confirming Deliveries
Market and product Analysis
Booking orders
Costing
Flow Monitoring
Raw Material
Production Follow Ups

Payments Follows
Designing and Sampling

Page 15

5.3 Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyers expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior
merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers,
overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper
work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for fit, color
and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples,
and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are cocoordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work
out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the
core department of the entire industry.
5.4 Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on the PO. During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc.
Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done accurately using
fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
Page 16

Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Costing
Analyze fabric
consumption from
CAD
Sampling
Analyze cost of
trims and
fabric
Obtain general
sewing data from
IED
Develop sample as
per the tech pack
Prepare cost sheet

from sample
Develop proto
sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Confirmation
of order
Obtain PCD &

details from
production unit
Source trims &

fabric from
concerned dept.
Yes
No
Approval
Book washing &

embroidery capacity if
required
Cost sheet
reworked
Obtain GSD
from IED
Execution of order by entering details in ERP
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Hold pre production

meeting with the
production unit
Execute
bulk order
Yes
Follow up with
production
departments &
update the buyer
Approval
Submit required
documents to
documentation
dept
No
Comments received from buyer

should be incorporated and fit
sample reworked
Offer garments
for final
inspection.
Truck out
Follow up
on the
payments
for goods
End
Page 17

6.0 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a
vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department.
Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether
there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyers specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details,
embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along
with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style
package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are
made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the
production. The sample garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills
and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer
regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that
of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples
on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
6.1 TYPES OF SAMPLES PRODUCED IN UNIT 9
Proto Sample.
Pilot Run Sample.
Shipment Sample.
Fit Sample.
Size Set.
Sales Sample.
Page 18

6.2 Machine details and workforce
The size of the sampling room is quiet less in unit 9 as it does sampling for some specific styles which runs in
the unit and others are done in head office. There were a total of 50 machines in the sampling department of
unit 9.
50 operators
2 pattern making tables
One CAD specialist
Two assistant Pattern makers
1 cutting tables
2 ironing tables
One Pattern Master
60 workers
6.3 The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it,
with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what
supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
Ref no.
Fabric
Description
Style no/ Size
Color
Composition
Quantity
Store
Page 19
Page 20

7.0 PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the merchants. The
major function is to determine, whether the company is capable of producing the particular style in the
given span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.
Shahi has a centralized planning department which does the main planning and allocates the styles to
the particular units according to its capacity of that unit. In Shahi unit 9 there is only one planner who
co-ordinates all the planning processes with the central unit. Thus when unit -9 gets an order, it does
Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units

based on line openings and buyers ratings
Provide details to the respective units on PCD,

order quantity & sample
Take inputs from IED on

productivity based on
garment analysis
Confirm the above details given

to concerned units in consultation
with GM & FM
Confirm in consultation
with embroidery,
washing departments
Confirm order plan with merchandising team
Provide MISreport to management every

fortnight
Planning follow up with factory till order

execution
End
the planning according to the current capacity of the unit.
Page 21

7.1 Detail Function:
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to
decide the date for having the PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly
involved with the planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate
the style to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyers specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Production commence date),
Order Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval and conducts a meeting with the other
departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the particular style
which takes about 10 15 days.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity based on
the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components in the garment,
type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines required to finish the
garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties
involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level
required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their
skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then
they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the PCD, Order
quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates on which
they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation they fix the
particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the merchants
and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management every fortnight,
then they prepare a Batch Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about 3 5 days before
the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the batch that has taken up the
job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the
labor details (which involves the number of operators and to which operation they are assigned to and
Page 22

they skill level will also be mentioned). This sheet will have to be updated once in an hour to know the
hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a Batch Variance Sheet, this
sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of the style in
the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely being
executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit idle with
a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the IED,
Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different departments is
done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of mails regarding
the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then the department
maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
7.2 Work Force:
Shahi unit 9 has only one planner who co-ordinates with the head office and the particular unit and
decides all the major planning activities in the unit.
Page 23

8.0 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
The Industrial Engineering Department works on the basis of the following definition of Industrial
Engineering is, it is a systematic approach for
Design
Installation
Development
Implementation and Maintenance of the integrated system of Man, Material and Machine/
Equipment
The industrial engineering department works for their optimum utilization for the higher productivity of
the organization with ultimate goal of earning better profit.
The tech pack made by the IED for a particular order has been shown which consists of the following
details of a particular order,
Batch layout
Operation process chart
Operation bulletin
Critical point analysis

Cutting instructions
8.1 Department Structure:
General
manager
(operations)
Industrial
engineer
(senior)
Industrial engineer
(sampling executive)
Industrial engineer
(production)
assistants
Page 24

Start
Training, selection &

development
Systems
development
Work Measurement
Selection of operators,
helpers, supervisors,
checkers, QC, etc.
Time study
Method
study
OPD
Analysis
Skill matrix
Line
balancing
Batch layout
Style
bulletin
Batch
performanc
End
8.2 Function:
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the
entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill
level categorization and other related aspects. Hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of
producing a single piece of the garment and cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows:
Planning department - The IED department helps the planning department to know the time
required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it
and they also help in finding the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department
takes a decision if they have to proceed with order or not.
Page 25

Merchandising department- The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the
productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates the accessories consumption
by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
and it also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing
the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.
Research and development team-The IED people using the General Sewing Data (GSD) prepare
the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the
garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried
out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread
(which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of
labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be
checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
Human resource department -IED department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their
skill level which is required for the production of the garment. They also set a target to the batch for
an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in
timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also
maintain the quality of their work.
After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator
and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they
update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the
garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency
of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was
a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass
production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operators performance which would have been observed for a specified period of
time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows:
Page 26

Skill type
Grade
Highly skilled
Skilled
Semi skilled
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio given below:
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
50% - Semi skilled

Note: This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases. Because of
maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his efficiency, working method and
after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for
about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade
is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work
experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have
done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills and then
grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review
meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in
the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then
they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one.
Page 27

8.3 Process followed of the IE department:
Once a style comes to the industry, the industrial engineering department gets into action. The IED
starts with the style study and analysis of the style which includes estimation of the work content for
each department (cutting, sewing and finishing), the machinery requirements for the smooth
functioning of these departments. The industrial engineering department then calculates the
process cost the style and compares it with the budgeted cost given by the head office. Finally, it
takes care of the special machines required for the particular style.
After the order is confirmed, the IED reanalyzes the style and find ways for method simplification
with factory managers and other concerned people. This result in a finalized operation bulletin and
the SAM and SMV are fixed.

Preproduction activities- This is the part where the sampling executive of the industrial
engineering department contemplates the special skills required for the style, required grade levels
of the operators and training them for specific jobs. This phase also takes care of the layout of the
batches for the style.

Now the implementation and execution of the style commences. In this process, the IE department
plans for the change-over of the new style from the previous running styles. It also calculates the
capacity and efficiency of each and every batch were the new style would run. They also effectively
synchronies each section of the batch so that idle time can be reduced both for the machinery and
operator.
Page 28

9.0 FABRIC STORES DEPARTMENT
The fabric stores department is centralized in unit-7 and all the fabric comes to this unit first from the
supplier and audited here and kept until it is distributed to other units.
9.1 Function:
Once the raw materials or the fabric is been sent by the supplier to the company and once they
reach in-house the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she checks
the quantity of the material in-house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks the
materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After confirmation he enters the details in the ERP (MOVEX) in the GRN (Goods Received
Note). After preparing the GRN they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the
document of whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made which
involves two steps that goes hand in hand. They are described as follows,
9.1. A Checking:
In this step the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the formalities
regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process of receiving the goods to inhouse, there has to be another action which the fabric stores has to take care of is the situation of
delivering the fabrics to the other units and also to the cutting department of the same unit.
This department receives the required documents of production issues/ exports and similar
other related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive this they enter the details of
the PO/ Export / Process follow ups into the MOVEX.
The department then checks the material availability with respect to the PO and other
documents as per the merchants given details. Then they look at the production issues / Export and as
per that two things are done. First, they pick the material as per the approval that would have been
given by the Fabric audit department and then they prepare the delivery challan and keeps it ready for
issue to the unit. Finally, at the end of both the cases the materials has to be issued after its inspection
by security line with DC that would have been given by the fabric audit department. This fabric audit
department will play a role in both issuing the materials. The fabric audit and the fabric sourcing
department in the unit 7 is the centralized unit and it holds the responsibility of collecting the raw
materials on behalf of all the other units and then distributes among them as per their order
placements.
Page 29

Job instructions for fabric stores department:
Receive fabric from central

warehouse and check against the
delivery chalan.
Check for center selvedge and end
to end variation for each roll.
Check for cuttable width of fabric for
each and every roll.
Prepare shade band and send to

merchant for approval
For shrinkage test of
100% rolls/ takes cut a
50cm X 50cm of fabric.
Approval
of shade
band
No
Inform merchant
reject rolls
C
Yes
Is
shrinkag
e <= 4%
Sanforization
Check 10% of received fabric lot for

using 4 point system
Scored
point<=
40
No
Check 100%
Yes
Compile two test reports send 1 to

pattern making and other to cutting
End
Page 30

The workflow after fabric is received from the supplier to the factory is as follows: In-house storage of the fabric
Inspection (making lots according to the shade, Four point inspection is done)
Shrinkage test is also done (In-house report preparation)
Report sent to the buyer for approval
Buyers comment received
If the test report and buyers comments are ok
Then fabric is issued for cutting

9.1. B Fabric inspection
Complete visual inspection is being done. There is no systematic recording.
defects.
Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of the
If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects may not to be
recorded.
Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only.
Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection.
Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes.
The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.
Page 31

Fabric Audit Flow chart
Fabric and document receipt
Verification of details: colors, total

rolls, quantity.
Cutting the shrinkage, shade, csv

sample
100% width and shade segregation
Fabric and document receipt
Grouping
Pass
Fail
Numbering
100%
inspection
Shade approval
Writing shades on rolls.

Place on the rack for issue for cutting
In Movex making put away.
Page 32

Instructions for shade segregation at fabric store.
Cut 1 meter from each roll
Segregate cut piece into family of shades
Send one half for washing and retain another

half
After receiving the washed pieces organize the

pieces as per the family of shades after wash.
Prepare shade band and send to merchant for

approval
NO
Inform the
merchant and
reject the
rolls/ takkas
Are shade
band
approved?Yes
Give one unwashed color continuity

card to cutting and sewing and one
card to finishing and FSA
Cut the Pcs in A5 size and make 4 color

continuity card each for washed and
unwashed
End
Page 33

9.2 Four point fabric inspection system
The four point system has received the widest acceptance in both the textile and garment industry. It is
simple and easy to understand and execute.
The amount to inspect is at least 30% of the total fabric received. Rolls to be selected for inspection
should be at least 3 roll from each lot.
9.2. A Defect Classification:
The four point system classifies defects as shown: Length/Size of the defect
Penalty
3 or less
1 point
Over 3, but not over 6
2 point
Over 6, but not over 9
3 point
Over 9
4 Point
Major defects that are encountered are: 1. Weaving

2. Dyeing (patta, center selvage, streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the defect is
measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for the evaluation of the
fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric with more width, will have more area.
Or we can say that a 72 wide fabric will have twice the area when compared to a 36 wide fabric. As
the area of the fabric is more, this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
Formula for calculating the number of defect points per hundred square yards: Total defect points found x 3600
Defect points per hundred square yards =
Fabric width (inch) * fabric length (yard)
Page 34

When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again is a matter of
agreement with buyers clothing manual. Some buyers working on low price prints can accept fabric
with DHU as high as 40-44 points. On the other hand it is like: 1) 20-25 points Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above Normally considered as reject.
Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room.
9.3 Record Maintenance
There is a record register that maintains all the information related to the fabric rolls that come in the
store and that are issued out of the store to the production department.
9.4 Machinery and workforce and other details in fabric store, unit-9
Fabric inspecting machine: 1 in number, Ramsons,
Shade segregation/dark room: 1 light tester for dark room.
and other technical testing, 1 quality controller, 1 operator for erp and record maintenance.
Receiving procedure: DC Slip from central unit or supplier
Work Force: 1 Store Manager, 5 Fabric checker, 6 helper, 1 IED assistant for shade segregation
Capacity of store: 2, 50,000 meters
Issuing Procedure: Issue slip as per lay record.
Daily Inspection output: 6, 000 meters.
Fabric storing criterion: Buyer wise, Shade wise both in rolls and takkas.
Details on the label attached fabric roll: Fabric code, Color, Item number, Buyer, Roll number,
Marker, Width, Shade.
Page 35

10.0 TRIM AND ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
The basic function of the trims and accessories section is to stock buttons, laces, trims and other
related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the requirement of PPC
department or the merchandising/sampling department. The workflow is quite lucid here. First the
department that needs a particular material fills up a requisition slip for the same. It is then forwarded to
the stores manager, who then approves the demand depending on his discretion.
The accessory stores here are the central stores in the unit-7. The accessory stores generally
receives the materials from three different locations and they can be classified into,
Faridabad
Domestics
Imports
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents i.e.,
whatever it may be whether acceptance and receiving whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also department makes
the document for anything they carry out within the store.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have
sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory
department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they will
make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and this is termed as PRE
GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person verifies the
materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have received from the
merchant as already stated.
10.1 Standard operating procedure in trim store, unit 9
Receive invoice and LR (Lab report) copy from head office.
Enter the details in securing register.
Check LR details with physical quantity.
Check the carton quantity.

Page 36
Check the weight of consignment.
Cross check PO copy with reference to item number.
Prepare a trim card for approval.
Send material for storage.
Pass invoice account for billing.
Check the trims with respect to invoice details.
Cross check PO description with reference to material description with quantity.
Send entire goods to quality department (1.5 AQL or as per the buyer demand).
Data entry into system.
Issue as and when required.
10.2 Manpower, machines and other details of trim store unit 9:
Work force: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper.
Trims stored in unit-9: Button, Zip, Thread, Labels, Lace, Poly bag, Price tag, Hangers, Seizers,
Cartons, Other stationary items like files, issue slips and records.
Segregations Category: Buyers wise, Purchase order wise.
Major buyer shelves: Wal-Mart, JC Penny, Espirt, H & M, Target, Mango, AEO
Major AQL followed: 1.5-2.5
Page 37

Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PREGRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is

forwarded to accounts for payment
PROCESS
SELECTION
PRODUCTION
ISSUES
Prepare work order
Identify trims which have been

approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan
Prepare delivery challan & keep trims

ready to issue to the factories
Forward trims along with

documents for processing
Materials to be issued after
inspection by security against DC
End
Page 38

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they carry out a
quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the buyer. The company
carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods received.
The AQL is defined as follows:
Example:
If an order is 10,500 units. When using General Inspection Level II, the factory learns from the second
chart that this quantity order equates to "M". The factory then goes to the first chart and sees that for
"M" they should inspect 315 garments. If they want a 2.5 AQL they can have 14 defective units or less
from the 315 that they inspect. If they have 15 defective units or more they are rejected. If they want a
4.0 AQL they can have 21 defect units or less to pass and they have 22 defects they will be rejection.
The defects are based on defective units (defective garment). It is not based on each actual defect on
the garment. For example, a shirt may have 3 different defects on the shirt, but this is only registered
as "one" defective garment.
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the nature
of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills whatever
they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill other formalities
and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them about the materials inhoused.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Process selection :
In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery challan and then they keep all the
documents and also forward the trims along with the document for processing.
Production issues:
Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been approved by merchants and then
prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued
after inspected by security against DC as already mentioned.
Page 39

11.0 CUTTING DEPARTMENT
The cutting department does two major operations given below :
1. Firstly when there is a pilot run production for a smaller quantity say about 150 500 pieces.
2. Secondly during the mass/bulk production.
Job instructions for cutting department
Receive fabric from fabric

audit
Inspect whether the marker length is same as fabric

width before cutting
A
Proceed with spreading and

cutting for pilot run .150 Pcs
max.
Yes
Receive pilot run

comments
NO
If width is
correct
No
Report to cutting
head for revised
marker
Proceed with spread for

bulk
Randomly check the fabric while

spreading for:
Is correction required?
YES
Make alternate patterns
Qc form for
cutting
Marker edge parallel to selvedge.

Alignment of fabric
Tension
Count
Shade
Page 40

Record in QCform provided
Proceed with cutting operations.
Randomly check for:

Mis-cut
Notches
Match top, middle & bottom
plies with pattern.
Proceed with numbering for

shade wise sticker.
Fusing (As per test report

maintain temp., pressure&
time
YES
Quality
check
NO
Quality
check
Inform QAM
and cutting
manager
NO [Inform QA and cutting manager]
Bundling
Final audit
Feed to sewing floor as

required
Page 41

WORK PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPTT
FABRIC RECEIVED FROM FABRIC DEPTT CUTTING
RE-SORTING OF FABRIC AS PER LOT /SHRINKAGE/WIDTH
CUTTING APPROVEL BY Q.A
RECEIVING OF MARKER
CUT ORDER ISSUE
LAYING OF FABRIC
CUTTING (CAM / MANUL)
NUMBEREING
EMBROIDERY (IF REQ.)
FUSING (IF REQ.)
RECUTTING (IF REQ.)
Page 42

BUNDLING
QUALITY
AUDIT PASS
DESPATCH TO SEWING FROM SUPER MARKET
Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly
operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally indicates the activities of
marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being used to refer to actual cutting
of garment parts from the lay. Marker planning is done in the CAD room. Garments are cut in bulk
simultaneously for which a lay is created; with a number of plies spread one above another. The marker
from CAD is fixed over the lay and it is cut with help of powerful electric cutters, or CAM m/c following
the lines of the patterns. The main objective of the cutting department is to cut the parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient volume to keep the production units supplied with work.
11.1 Basic work flow
Fabric requisition sheet

CAD mini marker
Marker planning Length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut
Along with this and approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The
cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the production
manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern (medium size) sent by the
CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These activities are co-coordinated by the R&D
department. When the patterns are amended the production manager gets a size set cut and these
pieces are stitched and the QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related to pattern in the
stitched garments. Report with comments for alteration in the patterns is sent if needed the pattern
master allocated to that style corrects the patterns accordingly. The marker planning is also done
afresh to incorporate the changes. Only when the production manager is sure of the base pattern,
will he issue the job order for bulk cutting.
Page 43

All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production department
against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity required the number of
pieces mentioned in the job card using the average given by the CAD department. About 5% is cut
more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage in production. The cutting room
provides 1.5 days to 2 days of WIP to the production floor.
11.2 Bulk cutting process
11.2. A Solid cutting
Spreading
Spreading is a process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which permits
these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this, first of
all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom
plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric
layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While
manual spreading is time consuming, the use of travelling machine gives faster and more accurate
results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality (also shade and shrinkage) of the fabric & length
of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the
fabric and the capacity of the machine.
The lengths of the plies being spread are kept as perfectly as possible while superimposing their sides
on one another. The difference between the lengths and breadths is kept as low as possible and
generally not more than inch +/-. The height of the lay is kept between 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches. An
increased height may affect quality cutting due to unstable layers. The tension at which the fabric is laid
is also monitored.
Positioning the marker
Positioning the marker is the process of placing the marker plan on the top of the lay and securing it
with adhesive to prevent its movement during cutting. When the marker is placed it is kept exactly
matching the length and width of the top ply of the lay. Details like style no., name of the part, size
number and number of components is printed on the marker as a guide. Then it is clamped for better
grip.
Page 44
Cutting
The lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. the machine
is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the
pieces of fabric progressively. Notches are also added, for smaller components like collars, ribs etc.
that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which
cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
11.2. B Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks are not being spread with spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time matching the strips with those in the
previous plies. Then blocks are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and the placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually
marked on top with marking chalk and using hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to
match the stripes and rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the patterns is done. The cut
shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to
finish the pattern.
Cutting of stripped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also more
due to cutting in two stages.
Spread
Mark blocks
Match
Match
Final precise shaping of patterns

Match
Cut patterns
Mark patterns
Page 45

11.3 Sorting and ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size
are brought together it is very important to take care of the pieces cut from two different bolts( bundles)
of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt to bolt shade variations the sorted
pcs are now ticketed ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching
precision, and sequence identification. The workers secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket
using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle no. and piece no. and
serves as important mans to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to the end
11.4 Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels may have faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape
and any fabric defects like holes cuts shade variations etc., that do not lie within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay a cutting component check report is filled for the total quantity
cut, check and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and equal no of fresh panels are
separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mendable
faults are marked with an alteration stickers and passed on these will be spotted out during garment
finishing or washing.
11.5 Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties. The
size of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain
pieces of same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the
production department when asked for.
11.6 Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts of to be fused are separated from the
bundle the fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be fused.
The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two paper sheets and the pack is
passed through the fusing machine. By means of temperature and pressure fussing takes place at a
particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyers and the
pieces are removed and re-bundled.
Page 46

11.7 Manpower, Machinery and other details:
Machine
Quantity
Make
Spreading machine
F k Arna
Straight knives
10
Eastman
Band knives
Eastman
Fusing m/c
Shima
Spreading Table
Mica surface
Manpower: 1 cutting manager, 1 incharge, 4 supervisors, 1 cutting executive, 1 minusing incharge (i.e.
- cut order plan), 100 workforces.
Daily Production: 14,000 to 18,000 pcs. per day.
Spreading tables: 6 lines
Bundling and ticketing tables: 2 lines
WIP to Sewing floor: 1.5 days to 2 days
Page 47

12.0 EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Shahi has a centralized embroidery department in unit -7 which is the second largest embroidery unit in
Asia. Unit 9 has a small embroidery section consisting of 3 multi headed machines.
12.1 SOP for embroidery department
Receive design from merchant against order.
Strike off design.
Scan and punch design.
Pilot run of style.

Receipt of panels from cutting
Start bulk production.
Marking
Framing
embroidery
Trimming and checking.
Pack goods.
Dispatch goods.
12.2 Detail functioning of the department:
The department receives Artwork from the merchandising department which contains the following
details
Total length and width of the design

Style name
Quality details- no. of stitches/inch

Quality check points
Placement of design
Pattern position
Color etc.
They refer the buyer wise design details from the production book in which the details of each order
are maintained.
These details are entered into the software which is linked to the machines.
The machines operate according to the details entered into the software.
Page 48
The details about the threads (strength, plies) to be used come from the Production Planning and
Control Department
The department remains in constant touch with the Pattern Making and Cutting departments for the
correct positioning of the designs and enabling continuous work flow respectively.
Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
Page 49

12.3 Manpower, Machinery and other details:
12.3.a Manpower:
No. of operators: 3 per shift
No of Checkers: 2 per shift
No. of supervisor: 1 per shift
No of Manager/ Incharge: 1
12.3.b Embroidery machines
Machine details
Company: Barudan
Model: 912K
Electronic, computerized, automatic

Multi-head: 20 heads/machine
Capacity : 1.8 million stitches /day

No. of machine : 3
12.3.c Types of stitches
Zigzag
Satin
Running
Titanium
12.3.d Embroidery Threads
Zari
Tribal polyester- strong
Rayon- not strong
Other threads as per requisition
Page 50

12.3.d Time taken for initial set up (12 pcs)
Small logo- hour

Big design- 2 to 3 hours
Framing- 5 min for 12 frames
12.3.e Quality
100% inspection is done

Major defects
Bobbin thread on the right side of garment

Puckering
Loose stitch
Remedies for defects
Manual embroidery
Re-embroidery
Re-cutting (if the above two dont solve the problem
12.3.f Costing
Cost depends on the no. of colors in the design as well as the size of the design
Size
0-3000 stitches: Rs.4 per pc
3000-10,000 stitches: Rs.1 per 1000 stitch
> 10,000 stitches: Rs.0.85 per 1000 stitch
If colors in the design are more than 2 then per colour 5 paisa increase per piece.
Garment embroidery is costlier than parts embroidery
Tolerance: 2mm-3mm
Page 51

13.1 SEWING DEPARTMENT
13.1 Introduction:
Production at Shahi, Unit - 9 comes under LSD/ LFD Division and involved in the production of
womens Casual and semi formal shirts, tops, dresses etc.
Main brands to which this unit caters are :
TARGET
WALMART
ESPIRT etc.
13.2 Production System followed:
Progressive Bundling System. Batch production at some floors. Depends on order.
Each floor has 8 batches.
This unit has four production floors totally having 32 lines of production.
Capacity: The production unit has a capacity of 12,000-15,000 pieces per day
Each batch has approx 45-65 workstations and machines apart from button sewing, button
sewing, and folding machines.
13.3 Functioning of the department:
The production floor does production in two types:
Once during pilot production where they have to produce about 250 500 garments for the new
style which is sent to the buyer to check the workmanship and production skills of the factory.
Bulk production
The production floor receives the details as below:
the style or the garment,
the batch for which the style has to be installed,
target for each day
number of operators required,
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
Breakup of the production quantity.

Page 52

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting
section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are required for the
particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting for the floor
which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced in bulk.
In progressive bundling system, this batch setting and teaching session will go on for about 23 days,
but in the newly introduced lean manufacturing system, batch-setting can be done 6 hours and the
production does not stop meanwhile but remains in the running process simultaneously.
After this batch setting process the production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e.,
may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 100
150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to
be carried out for the particular style.
The sections for the sewing process in progressive bundling system :
Front section
Sleeve section
Cuff section
Back section
Collar section
Assembly
Kaja and buttons section
The sections for the sewing process in Group/ Modular production System :-
Front section (one batch for entire front)
Collar and Sleeve section(One batch for collar and sleeves)
Back section(One batch for entire back)
Assembly (To assembly)

Kaja and buttons section
Page 53

During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
In-process checking.
End line checking. Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch which is been
allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform:-
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.

2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them the most
suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get him/her their
material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skill level whenever asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a better person to
fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly approach to them
and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the factory at any time.
Page 54

13.4 PROCESS FLOW CHART
Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from
Parts preparation
Assembly
In-Line
End line checking & AQL
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out
End
Page 55

13.5 Manpower, Machine details and other facts:
13.5.a Manpower
Operators: 2000 sewing operators
Helpers: 160 helpers
End line and in line checkers: 130
Supervisors: 30
Production manager: 2
Factory manager: 2
IE Executive: 4
IE head (Production): 1
13.5.b Number and types of machines:
There are approximately 2000 machines used in production floor. Allotment of sewing and other
machines are done as per requirement. Different types of machines are given below:
SNLS
SNLS(EC)
DNLS(UBT)
DNCS
FLAT LOCK M/C
BUTTON HOLE M/C
BARTACK M/C
MNC KANSAI M/C
SNLS(UBT)
DNLS
SNCS
OVER LOCK M/C (3T,4T,5T)
COLLAR TURNING M/C
BUTTON ATTACH M/C
EYE LET FIXING M/C
FEED OF ARM M/C

ZIG ZAG M/C
Page 56

14.0 WASHING DEPARTMENT
14.1 Introduction to the department:

Unit -9 handles the washing for other four units of Shahi in Bangalore. It is a centralized process
that is decided by the head office as per the availability and capacity of the unit.
14.4 Standard Operating Procedure:
Receive goods from sewing.
Verify desired ingredients ratio to be used to achieve buyer specified
Load goods along with ingredients into machine.
Shift wash garments into hydro extractor.
Prepare the washing recipe.
Perform desired washing, maintain specified time and temperature.
Shift garments into dryer for complete drying.
Send dried garments for checking.

Store garments in storage location and arrange for dispatch to finishing section.
14.3 Detailed Work Flow:

After getting the sample done, the merchandiser compare the original sample sent by the buyer
and the sample done in the factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications
to the washing department and ask them match the factory sample with the buyer sample with
respect to the feel and the texture.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects which are as follows:
Type of the material.
The feel and look of the garment under demand.
Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a colored fabric).
The texture that is under demand.
Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
Types of threads used for in sewing.

Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
Page 57
The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
The sequence of the processes.
The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.

Duration of the treatment.
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar
manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyers specifications. In this washing
there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
Wet processing involves mainly two types which are as follows:1. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved which are
classified as follows :
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
Desieze wash
Stone enzyme wash
Denim wash
Tinting/ T- staining
Softener wash
Enzyme wash
Rubber ball wash
Bleach wash
Acid wash
Page 58

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else
the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the
dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing and
then to the washing process.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which
a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler
capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be
extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that
particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to
the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after
the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left
over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit 9) is the centralized one for the four
units located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the
garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in
track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out
for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the
garments according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this department
maintains a record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number, PO number, item
number, quantity received and the day and date of receivable. The department maintains these
details both in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department will enter the details
in the MOVEX. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from the
different units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also phone calls.
Page 59
Start
Receipt of goods from

different units
Segregation (JO wise,

unit wise, shade wise)
Washing
As per buyer
Dry process:
grinding/ripping/ blowout/ sand
blasting/crinkling/ whiskering/ severen
Wet
Processing
Dyeing
Reactive
Pigment
Washing:
softener/ acid/ desize/enzyme/ stone/
rubber ball/ stone
enzyme/ tinting/ normal water wash/
dip n dry/ denim
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
Accounting & dispatch

to different units
End
Page 60

14.4 Manpower, Machine and other details:
14.4.a Manpower:
No of washing operators: 12 per shift
No of checkers: 4 per shift
No of quality checkers in after was zone: 6 per shift
No of supervisors: 2
No. of persons in chemical store: 2
No of washing manager: 1
Administrative staff: 2
14.4.b Machine:
No. of washing machines (front load) : 4 (500 kg)
No. of drying machines: 6 (200 kg)
No. of washing machines (top loading) : 1 (200 kg)
No. of hydro extractor: 3 (100 kg)
No. of sample washing machines : 2 (25 kg)
No. of Sample hydro extractor: 1 (25 kg)
No of drying sample machine: 1 (25 kg)
14.4.c Production Capacity:
Daily production (washing output): 10,000 kg/day
Page 61

15.0 QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to garment
industries also. Quality audit tools like:AQL 1.5 cutting audit
AQL 2.5 - garment auditing
4 point system- for fabric checking
15.1 FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT:
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance department has split up their job into
different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as
follows :
Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production which is
sampling. Here the auditing is done for all samples and precisely for the size set samples and
also for the pilot production garments. The size set samples are given importance to because
they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra
stress is given to these samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements
of the garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the length
of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and also for the
placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment areas, etc.
All the trial samples, measurement samples (before wash and after wash), size set sample etc
are approved by Quality Assurance personnel before offering any external checking and before
starting the pilot run also.
CAD:
Here all the markers are checked with shade and shrinkage preferences.
Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing is further
divided into many other departments which are as follows:Page 62

Quality check for the marker .
100% In-line checking while spreading.

Marker and lay checking.
100% Checking of cut pieces before they are issued to sewing floor.
Notches and other parameters after cutting have to be checked.
Quality audit of cut pieces at AQL 1.5 before dispatch to numbering.

100% quality check for Fusing
100% Checking of pieces after embroidery.
Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas which are as follows :-
1. In line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of
manufacturing which are as follows: After front ready
After back ready
After sleeve ready

After assembly
2. End line audit:
Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the
specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical
positions and then the placements of the labels.
AQL is being followed for the end-line auditing.
Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job is
limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it himself as and
when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the operator will be given or taught
about the specifications for the garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be
sent to the respective departments for rectifications.
Page 63
Washing and finishing Section:

Quality checking is done before wash and after wash. The points to be checked are Shade
changes, Open stitches, Damages, Tinting, Color bleed, Broken buttons, measurements etc.
In ironing section before final ironing, the buyer nominated QA signs the sample for approval.
There are roaming Q.C s monitoring the entire process.
15.2 Manpower and other Details:
Workforce: 1 senior manager, 2 Quality managers.
Each department they have Q.C incharge and QCs.
Cutting: 2 incharge and 8 QC
Sewing: 8 incharge and 32 QC (end line) and 64 inline checkers.
Washing: 2 QC
Finishing and Packaging: 24 QC
Output: Quality level achieved as per buyer norms. Daily 1000 garments packed in finishing
section with AQL quality checking to maintain quality level.
15.3 Reports maintained for Quality:
These reports help in monitoring the quality throughout the production process.
Size set report.
Spreading, Lay report, Cutting report.
Inline and end line check report.
In process measurement report.
Washing report.
Final statistical audit report etc.
Page 64

15. 4 TLS FOR WALMART GLOBAL SOURCING SYSTEM
Wal-Mart has a special quality measures and protocols for ll its manufacturers. They follow
specific code of conduct and discipline during the entire production process.
The Traffic Light System has to be implemented in the batch for monitoring the quality. The
process is described below.
The procedure that needs to enable flagging of quality issues during the sewing process
allowing the targeted and prompt action by the most appropriate personnel.
Faults Found
New product Introduction
0
1
0
1
1
0
0
2
1
0
1
Color Codes
Yellow
Green
Yellow
Green
Yellow
Red
Yellow
Green
Red
Red
Yellow
Yellow
0
0
Yellow
green
Note: - 1. Red traffic light will cause the workstation to stop

2. a workstation in red will resume after QM auditing further 5 fresh garment and the and
the traffic light changing to yellow.
The process details is given in the next page.
Page 65

Green
Work Station
A
Standard check
time
Any
faulty
garment
found
Check a min. of 10% of bundle o 5

garments (which ever is greatest)
Two or more faulty garments
Yes
No
Yes
No
Change to red light and advise

supervisor
No change to traffic light
Change to Yellow light and
advise supervisor
Traffic light green
No
action
required
A
Update daily inspection report
and move to next part.
Page 66
Yellow
B
Tighten check
One or
more
faulty
garment
Check a min. of 10% of bundle o 5

garments (which ever is greatest)
Change to red
Yes
No
Change to Green
Traffic light green
Update daily
inspection report and
move to next part.
Resume normal
activity
Page 67
Red
C
Upon supervisor
request only
One or
more
faulty
garment
Check min. of 5
fresh garments.
No
Yes
Third consecutive
red
Change to Red.
Flagged red.
Change to yellow.
Flagged yellow.
Yes
Call 3rd level team (tech.

manager, production
manager, and QA
manager)
Stop work and

determine
problem.
Keep the
workstation under
tight Monitoring.
Reach QM to inspect
Determine
validate
corrective
actions.
Page 68

16.0 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays
an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment.
Finishing department in Unit 19 is situated on the ground floor.
16.1 FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT:
This department includes majorly of the following steps:
Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas. As
soon as the garment comes from washing , undergoes extensive trimming of the inside
and outside part of it.
Thread Sucking
There are 2 thread sucking machines in the department which suck the extra threads
stuck to the garment. These thread sucking machine are facilitated with Suction control ,
Set on time and balance on time options, sensor and pedal options.
Pressing
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
Semi pressing
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
Measurement checking
After the garment is being pressed , it undergoes for measurement checking according
to the buyers specification.

Final checking
Mainly done on the right side of garment
Checking for the following things (in this sequence)
Page 69

Front placket
Buttons
Collar and collar band(inner)

Hem
Wash-care labels
Side seam
Sleeve
Placket buttons
Armhole
Cuff
Back
Inspection
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are folded according to the buyers specification and also they are either
folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the
buyers specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be
put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
Packing
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments which are as follows:There are generally two kinds of packing the garment
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be
specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag packing
Page 70

and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in the carton
box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton
boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different
ways which is as follows:
Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same
size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar color say navy blue and the size say S will be put in
one carton box.
Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different sizes
according to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same size or
garments with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
Page 71
16.2 Process flow of finishing

Receive goods from
production.
Stitch button and button hole

as per requirement.
Send for washing as per

requirement
Receive garments after

washing
Trimming
Inside checking
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Rough Iron
Outside checking
Page 72
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Final checking
Is Quality
checking
correct?
No
Rework
Yes
Measurement check
Final pressing
Presentation
check
Shade
segregation
Size and color wise segregation
Metal detection
Tagging
Tag audit
Ratio/ solid sorting
Poly-BAG
PACKAGING
Carton
packaging
Carton audit
FSA final checking
Page 73
Audit pass
No
Recheck 100%
Yes
External final
checking
END
16.3 Manpower, Machines and other details:

Finishing zones: 4 i.e. 1 in each floor
Types of Machines: Ironing Paddings, Irons, Thread sucker, Inspection Boxes, Blowers etc
Wok force: Managers: 3, Incharge: 2 , Supervisors: 10, Q.C: 16. Total manpower: 190
Output per day: 6,000 to 8,000 per day.
Page 74
17.0 Human Resource

Human resource is one of the most important assets of an industry. The success of any industry
depends upon the workforce and the skills inventory possessed by the workforce. Therefore,
one of the most important responsibilities of any industry is to keep its workforce in satisfied.
This helps in retaining experienced workers and increasing intelligence capital of the company
which ensures smoother workflow and higher profits.
At Shahi, the company is very pro-active in human resource management and takes utmost
care of its employees. At Shahi unit 9, the human resource management department has many
functions and operations to perform which are discussed below:
The HR department in Shahi unit-9 is headed by one core person who is responsible for the
recruitment and training of the new and existing workforce. The HR team also takes care of
other issues related to the workers like salary, production related and personal problems.
The HR team also consists of welfare officer, salary officer and maintenance officer for the
safety and other work related issues.
Shahi also provides counseling and doctors inside the premises of the company for its
workers and employees free of cost. The company also provides with crche facility for the
children of its workers and employees.
This is very helpful as 70% of the workforce is
women. All these facilities are provided to reduce the grievances of the worker and thus
reduce the attrition levels in the industry.
The company provides cash rewards for 100% attendance and best employee. It also
provides its workers and employees with transportation and lunch facilities at subsidized
rate. It also has 24hr ambulance facility in case of emergency.
It has tie-ups with many NGOs like Sankalp, which often holds awareness programs for the
workers on HIV and Tuberculosis.
The company also faces a major problem of attrition like the other industries. The attrition
level varies seasonally in the company. The overall attrition level for the year 2010-11 was
at 10.11% .The Company is striving to achieve an attrition level at 7% per annum.
Page 75
The company adheres to the 5s policies and has compliance with ISO SA 8000 and has
also obtained DSIC certification.
The HR team also provides soft skill training and technical training for a period of 45 days.
The company also provides PSI, ESI as per govt. rules and follows a 60hr per week working
time.
The payment of salary is made 90% through bank cards and 10% through cash. There is
also a swiping system for monitoring the daily attendance of the operators. The company
also follows ILFS laws for improved work environment.
ORGANIZATION CHART- CENTRALIZED DEPARTMENTS
MD
DIRECTOR
PROFIT CENTER
HEAD
VP- OPERATIONS
GM- FINANCE
GM-HR
DGM- PROJECTS
SR MGR - PURCHASE
MGR - SYSYTEMS
SR MGR - LOGISTICS
Page 76
PCH
MERCHANDISING
FABRIC SOURCING
BUSINESS
INTELLIGENCE
DESIGN
DIVISIONAL
MANAGER
SR. MANAGER
SR. MANAGER
EXECUTIVE
ASST. MANAGER
MANAGER/
EXPORTS
SR. EXECUTIVE
SR. EXECUTIVE
SR. EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
TRAINEE
JR. EXECUTIVE
JR. EXECUTIVE
TRAINEE
TRAINEE
PRODUCT
DEVELOPER
MANAGER
EXECUTIVE
Page 77
EXECUTION
MAINTAINENCE
EXECUTIVE
SR.
EXECUTIVE
SR.
MANAGER
MANAGER
JR.
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
ASST.
MANAGER
SR .
PATTERN
MASTER
HR
SAMPLING
TRAINEE
SR.
EXECUTIVE
JR . PATTERN
MASTER
EXECUTIVE
Page 78
Style Study
Page 79

STYLE 1 : BRIEF ABOUT SYTLE # 31216
Facility
Shahi Export Pvt., Ltd., Bangalore Unit-09 (LSD section)
Warehouse
Bangalore warehouse 200
Customer name
Wal-Mart
Style no.
FL31216T/TW
Item no.
M256/DOTCOM
Order placement date
13-may 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
Faded glory
Colours
Arctic white
Navy waters
Olive leaves
Poplin (100% cotton)
Knit rib (2X2)(96%cotton, 4% spandex)
S, M, L, XL,XXL
Fabric type
Sizes
Fabric
consumption
garment of basic size)
(per 1.16 meters / basic size = M
Name
31216-FG long shirt
Lead time
Order quantity
2 months
207388 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Style #31216 is running in the company from past 1 years.
Merchandiser received the tech pack, prepared the same style in some colors and out of
these colors the buyer selected four colors during the selection meeting which took place in
Shahi, Faridabad.
Style #FL31216T/TW is a new style of Wal-Mart.
A total of 427832 pieces of the style has been ordered, of which 207388 has been allocated
to Shahi unit-09 for production.
After receiving the techpack from the buyer, the merchandising committee prepared the
same style in some colors which were available and out of these colors the buyer selected
Page 80

three colors (for this particular style) during the selection meeting which took place in Shahi,
Faridabad.
This was followed by the process of costing by the merchandising team which was
completed within the next two days.
After the process of costing by the merchandising department, the tech pack with required
details was forwarded to all the other departments like
The IE department to calculate the SAM & SMV,
Planning department checked the availability of all the concerned departments in

different units.
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing of
the fabric and the accessories was done on time.
The merchandiser informed the buyer about the costing and the quotation, which was
approved by the buyer after 3-4 days.
Then merchandiser received the order of the types of samples buyer asked for, the ordered
conformation was received only after the required sample was approved.
Unit-9 was selected for manufacturing 207388 pieces of the 427832 pieces actually
ordered by Wal-Mart.
These are the processes that take place for a particular style in Shahi, Faridabad.
After the allocation of the unit by the centralized planning department, the planning
department in Shahi unit-9 planned the production according to availability, efficiency and
capacity of the workforce and the factory.

Simultaneously, the sampling department of Shahi unit 9 developed the first fit sample and
sent to the merchandiser for approval.
After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set
sample which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the
pre-production meeting.
Page 81
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel
and therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along
with 90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
pilot batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colors.
out in unit -9.
for this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the
For this particular PO of 3 colour (arctic white, navy waters, olive green) pilot run was carried
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and
The pilot batch ran for 500 pieces.
After pilot run, buyer QA checked the garment w.r.t. the following criterias:
Shade matching
Garment components.
Voluminous of the garment
Trims location and placement type
Trimming
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
Physical damages in the fabric
After buyer approval, process of ordering for the raw materials and planning for the
manufacturing happened simultaneously.
CAD dept:
Patterns were made according to the measurement specifications given by the product
development team of Shahi and grading was done for all the sizes.
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7, Bangalore (CAD
Room).
Unit 9 doesnt have separate CAD Room facility. Marker making is done.
Wal-Mart asks for 2 % extra allowance.
Page 82

Size of marker / 5= average fabric consumption per garment
Average fabric consumption/ garment = 1.16 mtr
This is sent to the merchandiser. Merchandiser includes the extra allowance in the
consumption & calculates the total fabric requirement and sends it to the sourcing
department for placing order for the fabric to the supplier.
Color
type
Arctic white
body
91260
93085.2
1.16
107978.83m
rib
91260
93085.2
0.5
46542.6 m
body
58112 59274.24
1.16
68758.11m
rib
58112 59274.24
0.5
29637.12m
body
58016 59176.32
1.16
68644.53m
rib
58016 59176.32
0.5
29588.16m
Navy waters
Olive leaves
order
qnty
2% extra
cons
/ gmt
fabric reqd
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Dye method
Package(yarn or beam)
Fabric sub type
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
100% cotton
Epi
124
Material supplier
Vardhman
Ppi
64
Page 83
Rib fabric
Description
Fabrication type
Fiber content
Before wash weight
2X2 rib
knit
96% cotton
4% spandex
180 gm
Order quantity
PO#
COLOR
xl
xxl
TOTAL
Arctic white
11394
17103
22824
22836
17103
91260
Navy waters
7252
10890
14540
14540
10890
58112
Olive leaves
7240
10878
14504
14516
10878
58016
As per the style bulletin:
There are 54 work station in the style

No. of operators required= 46
No. of helpers required = 8
Target per hour
=63 garments
Clock time
= 480 minutes
SAM
= 36.92
Machinery
description
3 thread over lock
SNLS(NUBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
Flat lock m/c
Bartack m/c
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
1
31
5
6
3
1
6
4
46
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
bartack
No. of
operators
5
39.5
0.5
46
1
helper
ironer
4.5
3.5
Page 84
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
process
ML
R
Rinse
1:8
Softener 1:5
tempera
ture
30
30
pH time
6
5.
5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
dosage Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
Amount
in kgs
264.000
165.000
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
.50
0.165
3.00
0.990
4.00
1.320
Page 85

STYLE 2 : BRIEF ABOUT SYTLE # 43805
Facility
Shahi Export Pvt., Ltd., Bangalore Unit-09 (LSD

section)
Warehouse
Customer name
Espirit
Style no.
40311 U
Item no.
M578
25th-july 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
espirit
Colors
Fabric type
Snow drift white

Purple plaid
Sky blue plaid
85-15% cotton-polyester
Sizes
S, M, L, XL
Fabric consumption (per garment 1.16 meters / basic size = M

of basic size)
Name
40311U- white shirt with two front pocket
Lead time
Order quantity
2 months
48654 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Style # 40311 is running in the company from past 7 months.
these colors the buyer selected 3 colors during the selection meeting which took place in
Shahi, Faridabad.
Then he did the costing within two days of time
Sent the tech pack with required details to all the other departments like
Page 86

Planning department checked the availability of all the concerned departments in different
units.
Unit 9 was selected for this particular style.
the fabric and the accessories was done on time.
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing of
The costing details were sent to the buyer the next day after receiving techpack.
Buyer informs merchandiser within 3-4 days, if the quotation they had sent had been
accepted.
From here the style went to the sampling section for the further developments in unit 9.
At sampling section
Sealer sample is received with tech pack from the head office on 20 January, 2011
Size-set of the garment is again sent to buyer on 25 January 2011.
500 garments are made in pilot run.
After approval style goes for bulk. Bulk manufacturing started on 2 February 2011.
Inspection of the sealer sample with tech pack i.e. measurement check is done.
After approval pilot run in Batches starts on 27 January 2011.
After pilot run, buyer QA checked the garment.
After the allocation of the unit by the centralised planning department, the planning
department in Shahi unit-9 planned the production according to availability, efficiency and
capacity of the workforce and the factory.

After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set
sample which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the
pre-production meeting.
and therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along
with 90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
Page 87
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the
pilot batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colours.
For this particular PO of 3 colour () pilot run was carried out in unit -9.
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and
for this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
The pilot batch ran for 500 pieces.
Shade matching
Garment components.
Trimming
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
CAD dept:
Patterns were made according to the measurement specifications given by the product
development team of Shahi and grading was done for all the sizes.
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7, Bangalore
(CAD Room).
Unit 9 doesnt have separate CAD Room facility.
JC penny asks for 3% extra allowance.
Average fabric consumption/ garment = 1.2mtr
Page 88
This is sent to the merchandiser. Merchandiser includes the extra allowance in the
consumption & calculates the total fabric requirement and sends it to the sourcing
department for placing order for the fabric to the supplier.
Order quantity
s
9052
Snowdrift white
m
15252
Sizes
l
xl
14106 9204
total
48654
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Dye method Package(yarn or beam)
Fabric sub type
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
85-15 ,cotton-poly
Epi
124
Material supplier
sarla
Ppi
64

No. of helpers required =17
Target per hour
=71 garments
Clock time
= 480 minutes
SAM
= 36.25
Machinery
description
DNLS(UBT)
SNLS(UBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
2.5
37.5
6
6
8
8
56
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
No. of
operators
5
46
1
52
helper
ironer
9
8
Page 89
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
process MLR tempera

ture
Rinse
1:8
30
Softner 1:5
30
pH
time
6
5.5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
dosag
e
.50
Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
%
Amount in
kgs
420.000
262.000
0.263
3.00
1.575
4.00
2.100
Page 90

STYLE 3: BRIEF ABOUT SYTLE # 43805
Facility
Shahi Export Pvt., Ltd., Bangalore Unit-09 (LSD

section)
Warehouse
Customer name
JC Penny
Style no.
# 43805
Item no.
M298
13-may 2010
Season
2012C2 Spring
Brand
JCP
Colours
Fabric type
navy fuschia plaid

veridian green plaid
black/ ECRU plaid
ECRU multi plaid
black/purple plaid
snowdrift multi plaid
tango red plaid
chocolate chip/ pink
bayou blue carbaret
bayou blue W/str sky
Poplin (100% cotton)
Sizes
S, M, L, XL,1X
Fabric
consumption
garment of basic size)
(per
1.2 meters / basic size = M
Name
43805- ruffle placket shirt
Lead time
Order quantity
3 months
102956 pieces
Buyer office
United States
Page 91
Style #43805 is running in the company from past 1 years.
these colors the buyer selected 10 colors during the selection meeting which took place
in Shahi, Faridabad.
A total of 102956 pieces of the style has been ordered to Shahi unit-09 for production.
After receiving the techpack from the buyer, the merchandising committee prepared the
same style in some colors which were available and out of these colors the buyer
selected 10 colors (for this particular style) during the selection meeting which took place
in Shahi, Faridabad.
This was followed by the process of costing by the merchandising team which was
completed within the next two days.
After the process of costing by the merchandising department, the tech pack with
required details was forwarded to all the other departments like
Planning department checked the availability of all the concerned departments in

different units.
The manufacturing, sourcing and the purchasing department made sure if the sourcing
of the fabric and the accessories was done on time.
The merchandiser informed the buyer about the costing and the quotation, which was
approved by the buyer after 3-4 days.
Then merchandiser received the order of the types of samples buyer asked for, the
ordered conformation was received only after the required sample was approved.
Unit-9 was selected for manufacturing 102956 pieces in 10 colours ordered by JC

penny.
These are the processes that take place for a particular style in
Shahi,
Faridabad.
Page 92

After the allocation of the unit by the centralised planning department, the planning department
in Shahi unit-9 planned the production according to availability, efficiency and capacity of the
workforce and the factory.
After the approval of the merchandiser, the sampling department prepared the size set sample
which is reviewed by the buyer QA technologist for this particular style during the pre-production
meeting.
During the review of the size set samples, holes were discovered on the knitted side panel and
therefore the second size set sample was called for by the buyer.
By the time of the samples got approved, the factory had 30% of the fabric in-house along with
90% of the trims and accessories which is essential for the pilot batch to commence.
After the conformation of the buyer, the pilot cutting commenced which was followed by the pilot
batch for sewing after 2-3 days. Pilot run took place for all colours.
For this particular PO of 10 colour (navy fuschia plaid, veridian green plaid, black/ ECRU
plaid, ECRU multi plaid, black/purple plaid, snowdrift multi plaid, tango red plaid,
chocolate chip/ pink, bayou blue carbaret, bayou blue W/str sky ) pilot run was carried out
in unit -9.
There exists a separate set of workers who are mainly involved for the pilot run process and for
this style 500 samples were generated during the pilot run.
The pilot batch ran for 500 pieces, 50 for each colour.
Shade matching
Garment components.
Trimming
Page 93
Stains
Pen/pencil marks
Needle holes
CAD dept:
Patterns were made according to the measurement specifications given by the

product development team of Shahi and grading was done for all the sizes.
This was done in Shahi faridabad. These patterns were received in unit -7,
Bangalore (CAD Room).
Unit 9 doesnt have separate CAD Room facility.
JC penny asks for 3% extra allowance.
Average fabric consumption/ garment = 1.2mtr
This is sent to the merchandiser. Merchandiser includes the extra allowance in

the consumption & calculates the total fabric requirement and sends it to the
sourcing department for placing order for the fabric to the supplier.
Order quantity
Navy/ fuchsia plaid
veridian green plaid
Black/ECRU plaid
ECRU multi plaid
Black/ purple plaid
Snowdrift multi plaid
Tango red plaid
Chocolate chip/ pink
Bayou blue carbaret
Bayou blue W/ str sky
total
s
2610
1782
2750
2408
504
414
590
1094
2412
198
14762
m
4860
3348
5266
4654
954
882
1162
2098
3960
360
27544
l
5274
3618
5536
4906
1080
936
1198
2224
482
414
29668
Sizes
xl
3096
2088
3182
2750
666
612
680
1256
2988
252
17570
1x
2412
1656
2588
2336
468
414
536
1022
1800
180
13412
total
18252
12492
19322
17054
3672
3258
4166
7694
15642
1404
102956
Page 94
Fabric details:
Body fabric
Fabrication type
Woven
Dye method
Package(yarn or beam)
Fabric sub type
Poplin
Wash
Sand Wash
Fabric content
100% cotton
Epi
124
Material supplier
Vardhman
Ppi
64

No. of helpers required = 9
Target per hour
=77 garments
Clock time
= 480 minutes
SAM
= 36.25
Machinery
description
DNLS(UBT)
SNLS(UBT)
SNLS(EC)
5 thread OVERLOCK
TABLES
IRON TABLES
Total no. of m/c
Reqd. no.
3
39
6
4
8
4
56
Skill grade
summary
A
B
C
total
No. of
operators
8
44
4
56
helper
ironer
9
4
Page 95
Washing details:Sl.
1.
2.
process MLR tempera

ture
Rinse
1:8
30
Softner 1:5
30
pH
time
6
5.5
2
15
Chemical
name
Water
Water
Acetic
acid
Ultrafluid
G101
Supersoft
NUSflake
dosag
e
.50
Dos.
type
OTH
OTH
%
Amount in
kgs
420.000
262.000
0.263
3.00
1.575
4.00
2.100
Page 96
Appendixes
Page 97
Appendix I
Company Profile
COMPANY
Year of Established
Annual Turnover (Rs. In crores)
Proprietary/Partner./Pvt. Ltd.
Export/Dom/Both./100%EOU
In house /Fabrication/Both
Total Covered Area Sq. ft.
Total Workforce
Shai Exprts Pvt limited, Unit 9

2008
150 crores
Pvt. Ltd
Export House
Both
100000 sqr ft
3000
Organisation Pattern
Owner
General Manager
Factory Manager
Production manager
Mr. Harish Ahuja

Mr. Sreedhar V
Mr. Raghubeer, Mr Jeevagan
Mr. Sayeed, Mr. Partheev
CUTTING Dept.
Production Manager
Pattern Master
Cutting Master/Asst.
Workers / Helpers
Shopfloor area
Mr. Nagrajan M
Mr. Maneesh
Mr.Ramachandra
29-May
55,000 sqr ft
SEWING Dept.
Production manager
Asst. P.M./Supervisor
Asst.Supervisor
Operators
Helpers
Shopfloor area
Mr. Sayeed, Mr. Partheev

4
16
1600
200
60,000 sqr ft
Packing Dept
Production manager
Operators
Helpers
Shop floor area
Mr. Praddep Pujari

80
20
30000 sqr ft
Facility
Page 98
Appendix II
Spreading Department (Capacity Study)
Page 99

Appendix III
Cutting Department (Capacity Study)
Page 100

Appendix IV
Sewing floor (Elemental Break down and time study)
Page 101

Appendix V
Style Follow up (Order Tracking Sheet)
Page 102

STUDY: SETUP TIME
Objectives of the study:
To study the time taken for setup of new style.

To study the external and internal changes.
To study the problems faced during changeover of style.
Theory:
Changeover time: A changeover is the complete process of changing between the
manufacture of one product to the manufacture of an alternative product to the point of meeting
specified production and quality rates.
Changeover time = Setup time + Startup time
Run-down period: It is the interval when production of old is complete but set up for new
product cannot be started as some of the pieces of old product are inline for alterations or
waiting for some parts/trims.
Set-up period: It is defined as interval when no manufacturing occurs. In this phase, the
equipments are being adjusted to manufacture new product. This interval is critical, because
there is no output from the line, and potential revenues are lost. The time to adjust or replace
machine parts to accommodate the new product.
Run-up period: It starts when production is commenced again and continues until consistent
output at full capacity occurs. It is often difficult to determine at what point full production
capacity is reached as the line performance is still fluctuating at this time.
Observations:
WEDNESDAY: 29TH JUNE
On 29th June, 823 garments of Sabrina style were produced. The efficiency of the batch was
78.58%. There were no internal changes but external changes were taking place. For the new
style Andrea, 3 machines were set parallel to the batch for research and development purpose.
PINTUCK MACHINE
SNLS
SNLS (EC)
Initially it was decided to work on 10 pieces but 30 pieces were wasted and were sent for rework
the next day.
THURSDAY: 30TH JUNE
On Thursday, 789 pieces of Sabrina style were produced. The efficiency of the batch was
76.05%. One worker was working in line, ripping the pin tucks. As there was problem with the
pin tuck machine, the supervisor was setting the pin tuck machine and simultaneously two
Page 103

workers were being trained for edge neatening and strip attachment. Loading of parts in the
parts bank had started.
FRIDAY: 1ST JULY
On Friday, the production of old style was complete but set up for new product could not be
started as some of the pieces of old product were inline for alterations. Setting of section 1 and
section 2 was being done for collar setting and work on collar had started. Mechanics, head
tailors and supervisor were setting the machines. Changing layout and teaching the operators.
One operator was working on collar run stitch and the rest were either ideal or reworking on the
old style. At around 4: 00 pm setting of section 2 was complete.
SATURDAY: 2ND JULY
On Saturday section 1 and section 2 were working on the new style but some machines were
ideal and the sections faced some problems which were being looked into by the head tailor or
supervisor, and section 3 and section 4 were being set. At around 4:40 pm the first garment was
complete thereby completing the setup process.
DATE
PRODUCTION
EFFICIENCY
4TH JULY
5TH JULY
6TH JULY
7TH JULY
8TH JULY
9TH JULY
12TH JULY
13TH JULY
14TH JULY
40
146
240
207
350
359
152
357
352
4.52
15.56
25.92
23.15
38.38
37.18
18.07
45.11
45.39
AVERAGE
EFFICIENCY
4.52
10.04
15.33
17.28
21.56
24.11
23.25
25.98
28.14
Changes during setup

Most of the operations of the new style were similar to the old style. The major difference was
the removal of darts and the addition of pin tucks in the princess panel and the attachment of
the waistband and waistband drawstring. Following are some of the changes done in the line.
Setup of a pin tuck machine
Cleaning of machines as the new fabric was white in color.
Changes in the layout.
Introduction of two more over lock machines which had been set externally.
For the front placket a DNLS was introduced and a placket folder for 1 wide placket was
attached.
A new folder for the drawstring was introduced.
Changing of table cloth for ironing table.
Page 104

Problems face during setup:
The setting of the pin tuck machine took almost a day, leading to rework of around 35
pieces.
The setting of the pin tuck machine took a complete day. The operator was given 10
pieces for research and development purpose but due to uneven thread tension in
needles it lead to the rework of almost 35 pieces.
SOLUTION: Setting and testing of the pin tuck machine using waste fabric of similar
type this would eliminate the rework.
Fabric handling
Some workers faced problems in material handling .The operators also faced problems
in attaching the parts with pin tuck to other garment parts.
SOLUTION: The operators can be giving some practice on the fabric of similar kind
during the set-up and rundown time as they were ideal.
Garment piece measurements
There was problem with the measurement of certain garment parts. Eg
The front panel of the shirt was big and an extra machine was set to recut the panel.
SOLUTION: Such measurements should be looked into during the sampling of the
garment and the patterns should be prepared accordingly.
Wrong size of templates

There was problem with certain templates and hence they had to be rebuilt. Eg.
The templates used for collar peak ready was not of proper dimension hence it had to be
rebuilt.
Solution: The use of wrong template led to a lot of rework. The head tailor should check
the stencils before giving to the operator as he is asked to stitch the garment before the
simulation meeting.
Setting of folder for placket stitching
The major problem was in the front placket of the shirt. A folder was attached for front
placket stitching of the shirt. Initially there was width problem. So the folder was
adjusted then there was alignment problem and the stitches were not straight.
SOLUTION: This problem should also have been checked before by the head tailor.
Later three machines were setup for this purpose.
Thread breakage due to improper tension
Another problem faced was the thread breakage due to improper machine tension.
Page 105

Problems in the garment:
During the initial production following were the problems seen in the garment:
Pin tucks were not straight..

Needle holes on tunnel seam.
o CAUSE: A lot of rework. Care should be taken will stitching.
The width of the front placket was uneven and the stitches were not straight.
o CAUSE: This was due to a number of reasons such as cutting problem and material
handling. The folder was removed and the operation was broken down into three
steps:
Ironing of the placket.
Lower stitch.
Top stitch.
During the attachment of pin tuck and panel at princess line the width is not as required
and it does not come in straight line.
o CAUSE: Unskilled operator. The operator should be given some practice prior to
stitching in attaching pin tuck and other parts.
Defect in the collar and collar stand attachment due to wrong dimension of templates.
o CAUSE: Wrong dimensions of templates. The head tailor should check all the
templates before handing them to the operator.
Results:
RUN-DOWN PERIOD
SET-UP PERIOD:
INTERNAL CHANGES
EXTERNAL CHANGES
RUN-UP PERIOD
1ST JULY ( 9:30 am TO 3:00PM)

1ST JULY (3:00PM TO 5:30 PM)
2ND JULY(9:00 AM TO 4:40PM)
External changes had started on the 29th of june.
2ND JULY (4:40 PM TO 5:30PM)
Set-up period:
a) Internal Activities
Set-up of machines
Training of operator
b) External Activities:
Line Plan
Operation Bulletin revised on basis of Line Plan
Mock Sample By supervisor- Critical operation, Method Details
M/C Plan-M/C type, SPI, Folder, Required setting
Status Check- Status of cutting, Trims
Page 106

DATE
PRODUCTION
OF OLD STYE
EFFICINECY OF
OLD STYLE
29TH JUNE 2011
823
78.58
30TH JUNE 2011
789
76.05
1ST JULY 2011
481
45.50
PRODUCTIO
N OF NEW
STYLE
EFFICINEC
Y OF NEW
STYLE
2ND JULY 2011
11
1.24
3RD JULY 2011
40
4.52
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
CHANGES;
LOADING OF
PARTS
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHANGES
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHNAGES
EXTERNAL
AND
INTERNAL
CHNAGES
Suggestions:
Following are some of the steps that can be taken to reduce the setup time:
Convert internal changes to external changes:
Where ever possible the internal changes should be minimized and external changes
should be maximized. The machines should be setup externally such as gauge change,
folder, presser foot, spi etc. and then introduced in the line.
Perform parallel operations:
Parallel operations should be performed in the line i.e. the head-tailors and the
maintenance department should work simultaneously on different machines instead of
working on one machine.
Same operators for similar operations:
If there are similar operations in the new and old style the same operator should be used
for similar operations as this will reduce the run-up time and increase the efficiency.
Check the templates and folders:
The stencils and folders used should be checked beforehand externally for dimensions,
accuracy and stitches.
Page 107

STUDY: Ladder efficiency
Ladder efficiency is calculated to observe and measure the variation in efficiency if there is
some change introduced.
Objectives of the study
To study the possible reasons for efficiency variation.

To study the efficiency ladder if new style is introduced.
To study the startup loss for new style.
To know about efficiency variation if new operator is introduced.
This study is divided in 4 cases:

CASE 1: Efficiency variation in constant running style in same line.
CASE 2: Efficiency variation when new style in introduced.
CASE 3: Efficiency variation when new style is introduced but operation is same.
CASE 4: Efficiency variation when new operator does an operation.
Observations
Efficiency data is taken for few days and variation is observed.
CASE 1: Efficiency variation in constant running style in same line.

BUYER: TOMMY
STYLE NUMBER: 7605675
STYLE: SABRINA (FORMAL SHIRT)
BATCH: 5 AND 6
Page 108
Date
27/05/201
1
28/05/201
1
30/05/201
1
31/05/201
1
Manpowe
r
Present
SAM
60
29.4
9
54
29.4
9
53
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
60
29.4
9
56
01/06/11
54
02/06/11
58
03/06/11
57
04/06/11
58
06/06/11
55
07/06/11
57
08/06/11
55
09/06/11
56
10/06/11
60
11/06/11
13/06/201
1
14/06/201
1
Targe
t
809
809
809
Blocked
efficienc
y
63%
63%
63%
Target at
blocked
efficienc Outpu
y
t
LOADIN
G
Efficienc
y
856
84.09%
814
678
67.91%
631
598
61.10%
669
550
52.03%
646
819
77.48%
526
642
642
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
720
66.87%
557
809
63%
642
642
658
67.90%
834
809
63%
642
800
78.59%
965
642
720
65.10%
629
796
71.34%
150
680
59.89%
722
651
59.92%
563
773
71.80%
800
755
70.77%
588
703
69.06%
1024
656
64.44%
624
809
63%
809
63%
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
63%
642
809
809
63%
63%
642
642
Page 109
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
EFFICIENCY
30.00%
TARGET EFFICIENCY
20.00%
10.00%
14/ 06/ 2011
13/ 06/ 2011
11/ 6/ 2011
10/ 6/ 2011
9/ 6/ 2011
8/ 6/ 2011
7/ 6/ 2011
6/ 6/ 2011
4/ 6/ 2011
3/ 6/ 2011
2/ 6/ 2011
1/ 6/ 2011
31/ 05/ 2011
30/ 05/ 2011
28/ 05/ 2011
27/ 05/ 2011
0.00%
Observations
This data explains the factors responsible for variation in production:
Absenteeism of operators
Improper loading.
Alterations or rework due to quality issues.
Personal issues of operators
CASE 2: Efficiency variation when new style in introduced.

BUYER: AEO
STYLE NUMBER: 5568
BATCH: 3 AND 4
Page 110
OPR
Date
SAM
04/05/11
26.13
05/05/11
31
26.13
06/05/11
32
26.13
07/05/11
32
26.13
09/05/11
33
26.13
10/05/11
31
26.13
11/05/11
32.5
26.13
12/05/11
34
26.13
13/05/2011
31
26.13
14/05/2011
25
26.13
16/05/2011
26
26.13
17/05/2011
26
26.13
18/05/2011
27
26.13
19/05/2011
28
26.13
20/05/2011
26
26.13
21/05/2011
26.5
26.13
Target
Blocked
efficiency
Target at
blocked
efficiency
LOADING
Output
Efficiency
2.30%
800
169
19.43%
123
339
36.93%
320
585
63.73%
640
545
59.37%
640
560
61.00%
560
651
70.00%
836
651
610
61.59%
651
700
74.30%
800
655
82.16%
800
655
79.75%
560
600
73.05%
690
520
61.50%
493
630
76.70%
625
604
73.54%
509
550
65.99%
724
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
930
70%
651
651
930
70%
930
70%
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
930
70%
651
Page 111
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
EFFICIENCY
4/ 5/ 2011
5/ 5/ 2011
6/ 5/ 2011
7/ 5/ 2011
9/ 5/ 2011
10/ 5/ 2011
11/ 5/ 2011
12/ 5/ 2011
13/ 05/ 2011
14/ 05/ 2011
16/ 05/ 2011
17/ 05/ 2011
18/ 05/ 2011
19/ 05/ 2011
20/ 05/ 2011
21/ 05/ 2011
TARGET EFFICIENCY
Suggestions
Targets for few initial days when new style is added to the batch can be set based on the data
which explains the efficiency ladder when new style is introduced until it reaches its blocked
efficiency in 4-5 days depending on the complexity of the style.
CASE 3: efficiency variation when new style is introduced but operation is same.
BUYER: TOMMY
STYLE NUMBER: 7605675
STYLE: SABRINA (FORMAL SHIRT)
BATCH: 5 AND 6
Page 112

OPR
SAM
Date
21/05/2011
46.5
29.49
23/05/2011
44.5
29.49
24/05/2011
43.5
29.49
25/05/2011
45.5
29.49
26/05/2011
46
29.49
27/05/2011
47
29.49
28/05/2011
46
29.49
30/05/2011
45
29.49
31/05/2011
49
29.49
01/06/11
49
29.49
02/06/11
50
29.49
03/06/11
49.5
29.49
04/06/11
47
29.49
06/06/11
51.5
29.49
07/06/11
52
29.49
08/06/11
53
29.49
Target
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
809
Blocked
efficiency
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
Target at blocked
efficiency
642
642
642
642
642
LOADING
Output
Efficiency
443
42.30%
406
689
68.34%
824
509
51.49%
676
634
61.69%
814
585
58.60%
430
856
84.09%
814
63%
642
642
678
67.91%
631
63%
642
598
61.10%
669
63%
642
550
52.03%
646
819
77.48%
526
720
66.87%
557
658
67.90%
834
800
78.59%
965
720
65.10%
629
796
71.34%
150
680
59.89%
722
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
63%
642
642
642
642
642
642
642
Page 113
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
EFFICIENCY
8/ 6/ 2011
7/ 6/ 2011
6/ 6/ 2011
4/ 6/ 2011
3/ 6/ 2011
2/ 6/ 2011
1/ 6/ 2011
31/ 05/ 2011
30/ 05/ 2011
28/ 05/ 2011
27/ 05/ 2011
26/ 05/ 2011
25/ 05/ 2011
24/ 05/ 2011
23/ 05/ 2011
21/ 05/ 2011
TARGET EFFICIENCY
Suggestions:
Operators should be given similar operations as they were performing in the previous
style.
Batch layout should be maintained similar with some necessary changes by adding and
elimination of certain operations to save batch setting time.
CASE 4: Efficiency variation when new operator does an operation.
For the style Sabrina an operator named Shanti was doing the operation of collar run stitch.
After the style change for the first few days Shanti was doing the collar run stitch and then a
new operator named Gurlakshmi was doing the operation of collar run stitch. The previous
operator produced 65 to 75 pieces per hour in a day.
OLD OPERATOR NAME: SHANTI
NEM OPERATOR NAME: GURLAKSHMI
OPERATION: COLLAR RUN STITCH
OPERATION SAM: 0.58
NUMBER OF WORKING MINUTES PER DAY =[(8 X 60)-30]= 450mins

Therefore at 100% efficiency, number of pieces produced= 450/0.58 = 776 pieces
Blocked efficiency = 70%
At 70% efficiency, number of pieces produced per day = 543 pieces
Number of pieces produced per hour at 70 % efficiency = 543/8 = 68 pieces
Page 114
DAY
1
SAM
0.58
TARGET AT
BLOCKED
BLOCKED
TARGET EFFICIENCY EFFICIENCY
776
70
543
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
0.58
776
776
776
776
776
776
776
776
70
70
70
70
70
70
70
70
543
543
543
543
543
543
543
543
OUTPUT
320
EFFICIENCY
41.24%
340
334
450
480
432
467
490
560
43.81%
43.04%
57.98%
61.85%
55.67%
60.18%
63.14%
72.16%
80.00%
70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
EFFICIENCY
30.00%
TARGET EFFICIENCY
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
1
Observation
Whenever a new operator is given some operation, he takes time to settle to that
operation.
Time taken by the operator is generally 2-3 days until he reaches maximum efficiency
depending upon the operators skills.
Suggestions
Absenteeism is needed to be minimized so that operators are not required to move from
one operation to another.
Operators should be skillful in more than one operation so that they perform well and
can be utilized for other operations.
Page 115
Projects
Page 116
18.0 Project I
Objective: To develop a database for monitoring the breakdown of the critically broken down
machines and finding a solution for the next monitoring dates/schedule.
Requirement: Improvements in current ERP required for the better tracking of maintenance
scheduling and prior report generation of the schedules for easy access.
Software used: Relational database management system i.e. Microsoft office access 2007.
VB.NET end with SQL applications.
Concept: The main idea is to keep an eye on the complex machines those show frequent break
down and create a database for the machines that has been maintained. This will help the
department to analyze the frequency and cause of the machine breakdown. Some additional
features can be added to the database in order to track the location of the machine, history of
maintenance on the particular machine etc. The main aim to create a pre defined schedule as
per the requirement of the department for each and every machine. It should act as a daily alert
for the routine checking of the particular machines on a particular date.
18.1 About Relational Database Management Systems:

A relational DBMS is special system software that is used to manage the organization, storage,
access, security and integrity of data. This specialized software allows application systems to
focus on the user interface, data validation and screen navigation. When there is a need to add,
modify, delete or display data, the application system simply makes a "call" to the RDBMS.
Although there are many different types of database management systems, relational
databases are by far the most common. Other types include hierarchical databases and
network databases.
Page 117

Although database management systems have been around since the 1960s, relational
databases didn't become popular until the 1980s when the power of the computer skyrocketed
and it became feasible to store data is sets of related tables and provided real-time data access.
A relational DBMS stores information in a set of "tables", each of which has a unique identifier
or "primary key". The tables are then related to one another using "foreign keys". A foreign
key is simply the primary key in a different table. Diagrammatically, a foreign key is depicted as
a line with an arrow at one end.
In the example below, "Customer ID" is the primary key (PK) in one table and the foreign key
(FK) in another. The arrow represents a one-to-many relationship between the two tables. The
relationship indicates that one customer can have one or more orders. A given order, however,
can be initiated by one and only one customer.
By storing data in a RDBMS, undesirable data redundancy can be avoided. This not only
makes data management easier, but it also makes for a flexible database that can respond to
changing requirements.
18.1.a Features of RDBMS:
Support for large amount of data
Page 118
Data sharing, concurrency and locking

Data Security
Data Integrity
Fault tolerance and recovery
18.2 Basic Process:

First of all we need to collect some specific data in relation with machine details. The data
required for the purpose of creating this data base are given as below:
Machine unique identity number, i.e. the barcode in this case.

Department wise sorting of the rooms. Here we have created six department or categories
for the entire unit. They are- Production [PRO], Fabric and Trim Store [FNP], Product
development zone [PDM], Finishing and Packaging [FNP], Washing and dry processing
zone [WND], Maintenance [MAT].

Again the departments have some specific locations. The specific locations respective to
each department are related together and thus mistakes or wrong data entry can be
avoided. The list of the department and the specific location are given below:
PRO- Cutting, Sewing and Embroidery.

FNP- Fabric Store and Trim Store.
PDM- Product development, Sampling, CAD.
FNP- Finishing zone, Packaging section and Dispatch section.
WND- Washing Section, Dry finishing section.
MAT- Maintenance department.
Next is the categorization of maintenance policy. Different types of policies that have been
taken care of here are- Monthly maintenance, Quarterly maintenance, Yearly
Maintenance and Break down maintenance.

The other details required for the data base may include specific batches, last maintenance
dates, maintenance history, year of purchase of the machine, average life, Date of issued
and returned from any department etc.
Page 119
18.3 The Database:

The Machine Database works on MS Office Access 2007. When the software is opened
automatically a switch board will be displayed on the front page. This will be the HOME page for
further navigation.
This switch board will give the operator some specific set of predefined forms that has to be
filled during different operations. The forms are
Machine Entry form.

Machine Movement form
Machine Status form
Maintenance Schedule form
Maintenance History
Todays Alert
Reports
Page 120
When an operator clicks on any of the item it will go to the respective form for further entry
and modification. But when the operator clicks on the report section it redirects the page to a
new switch board which gives the options for displaying all the reports.
The reports generated by the database are:
Machine List
Machine status
Machine maintenance history
Total maintenance schedule
Todays Maintenance schedule
18.3.a MACHINE ENTRY FORM

It is the basic form that has to be filled when a new machine enters the unit. It has machine id as
the primary key and it is related to maintenance schedule form and movement form. So any
changes in the entry or machine details will automatically change the particular field in entire
database without any duplication or data loss.
The particulars to be filled in this form are:

Field Name
Data Type
Machine ID (Primary)
Text
Machine Name
Text
Department
Drop down box
Location
Drop down box
Make
Text
Page 121

Model
Text
Purchase Year
Number
Life time
Number
Last maintenance
Date/Time
Valid Till
Date/Time
There are some buttons given on the sides of the form to make the operations easier. They
are described below:
Name of the button
Function
Save Record
Saves the data in respective table
New Record
Clears the data for new entry
Delete Record
Deletes a particular Record
Find Record
To find a particular record
Print Record
To Print the record
Print Table
To print the table
Next Record
To go to next record
Previous Record
To go to previous record
Print Record
To print the particular record
Print the Form
To print the form for manual purpose
Open Report
Open the respective report
Close Form
Close the form
It Saves the data in the machine list table and all the data can be entered in the table directly
also but it is not advised to do so as the table is not easily understandable by all operators.
This form generates a report too in order to have a look on the total machine list with details.
The data field required in the report can be edited as per the end usage.
Page 122
18.3.b MACHINE MOVEMENT FORM:

This form is utilized for any further change or modification in the machine movement. This is
used for the existing machines. It gives the details about the issue date, return date and
concerned department and cause of change etc.
Field Name
Data Type
Text
Department
Drop down box
Location
Drop down box
Date Issued
Date and Time
Date Returned
Date and Time
Any break down
Tick box
Page 123
The buttons given for the additional usage are the same like the machine entry form.
It stores data from the respective table and generates report too as and when required.
18.3.c MACHINE SATTUS FORM:
This form requires and displays data about the machine status and whether its working or not
or needed any remarks or measures.
Field Name
Data Type
Text
Department
Drop down box
Location
Drop down box
Status
Text box
Remark
Text box
Page 124
Again the entries in the table are saved in the concerned table and the buttons are all the same
as machine entry form and machine movement form.
It generates a report named machine status report.
Page 125
18.3.d MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FORM AND TODAYS ALERT

This form is used to decide the to be maintained machine and monitor their maintenance. This
can be very useful for monitoring those machines that have been showing continuous break
down and need constant monitor. Once an operator services a machine it needs to be entered
in the schedule form. The next schedule will automatically generate the re-query and on that
exact date it will automatically display the details of the machine to be maintained on the very
same day. The data to be entered in the form are:
Field Name
Data Type
Text
Department
Drop down box
Location
Drop down box
Type of maintenance
Drop down box
Next Schedule
Date/Time
Page 126
This form also features the same type of buttons for better and easy execution of command as
described in the previous forms. It generates a report that shows the future maintenance
activities with date.
Page 127

The advanced feature of this form is that every day it runs a function named re-query and
checks for all the machines that has to be maintained on the same date. If it finds any machine
which has same date on its next maintenance schedule on that date, it displays it on Todays
Alert. Then it will be easier for the maintenance mechanic to monitor the machines very easily
which has to be checked every day or on a regular basis.
The screen shows a form and a query sharing single window screen and displays only those
machines which are to be maintained on that day only.
Page 128

18.3.e MAINTAINECE HISTORY
One machine may undergo many types of maintenance and may go through the same process
many times. As this form has no primary keys one machine entry can be done for many times
for different types of maintenance on different dates or on same dates. This history card shows
all the maintenance activates done on a particular machine. The details to be entered in the
form are:
Field Name
Data Type
Text
Department
Drop down box
Location
Drop down box
Type of maintenance
Drop down box
Date
Status
Date/Time
Text box
It has the same buttons for additional features. It generates a report named Machine history
report card for all the machines maintenance and other details.
Page 129
18.4 Relative information:

The above discussed are all the details about the functionality and standard operating
procedures of this particular database. Once the database has been installed operator has to
enter all the basic data in the machine list form and as it is a relative database the primary key
and some features will be automatically do the changes in some fields in another table. So in
that case we need not enter the same data again and again. For some cases data duplication
might be a problem so in those fields relativity feature has been disabled to avoid database
corruption. The report generation ability is a additional feature that this database provides which
the current state of art erp i.e. movex M3 is unable to provide. As MS OFFICE ACCESS is easy
to use software further modifications can be done easily to the database design. The database
can be modified with required number of fields and can be deleted the unnecessary items as
and when needed. Up to date modification with-out much difficulty and cost involvement is the
basic advantage this database.
Page 130

18.5 Practical Implementation:
In Shahi as discussed above, the ERP followed is MOVEX (M3) which is an online ERP system
that involves more cost, knowledge and technical skills. The advantage of this database over
the current ERP is its less costly than the ERP. This database will be used as an alert for the
critical machines like 5T OL etc. The machines which shows regular breakdown and needs
frequent servicing can be entered in machine maintenance schedule and the next date can be
given by the supervisor and on that date it will display the machine name and it will be easier for
the operator to identify and take necessary actions. This will be a useful feature for the
maintenance department which uses MOVEX and maintenance database as parallel software.
18.6 SWOT Analysis:
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Local network
Low Cost
Yet to be online
Easy Updation
Needs MS Office for running
Data Encapsulation/ Security
Less
detailed
process
than
the
current ERP i.e. MOVEX

LAN connectivity
Opportunity
Threat
More Tables can be added.
Other
More fields and forms can be added as

per specific requirements.
Can be online.
Design can be changed at low cost.
ERP
which
has
more
complicated structure than this simple

database.
SAP, ORACLE are some of the the
greatest threats towards this Microsoft
office database.
Adaptability is more.
Page 131

19.0 Project II
Objective: To develop a database for monitoring the spares stored in the maintenance
department and finding a solution for the easy tracking of each and every spare without any
loss.
Requirement: Improvements in current ERP required for the better tracking of spare parts and
other sewing machine accessories and report generation of the issued quantity. There is no
such facility to track the spare in automatic/electronic way.
Software used: Microsoft office Excel, Relational database management system i.e. Microsoft
office access 2007.
Concept: The current ERP plays no role in the field of asset management within the factory.
Thus the problem arises to keep a track on all the spares that has been issued to production
lines and all. We need to create a data base that keeps a track of all the items that has been
issued, returned in the store. Currently the maintenance department has a database in open
office that has all the name and categories of the spares, folders etc. But it shows only the total
stock, running/issued stock and the on-hand/remaining stock. There is no scope of getting
information regarding the exact location/line of the spare or folder.
For this situation we have found two solutions. One is creating an excel sheet database in
Microsoft office excel and it would be easier to track all the items in all floors. The second
solution is to create a database in relational database management system software i.e.
Microsoft office access in this case.
19.1 Solution 1
Creating an excel sheet.
The excel sheet is the easiest option for this kind of problem. Here we created fields for each
type of attributes. The various fields that are included in this database are:
Serial Number
Part number (Technical details)
Description (Name)
Code (For easy filtering)
Machine Model (Model Number)
Page 132
Make (Manufacturing company)

Total Stock (Quantity)
Issued Stock
On hand stock (Remaining quantity)
Floor 1 (Batch 1-8)
Floor 2 (Batch 8-16)
Total in Floor (after each floor)
All the spares and items are entered in the description filed.
The total amount of the spare in the store is entered in the respective field. When ever a
new entry comes we need to put the amount in the respective cell.
The next thing that needs to be done is when any amount of folder/spare is issued to a line,
the operator just need to put the amount on the concerned batch/line. The predefined value
of issued folder in batch is 0. So when we change it to any number other than 0 it will do a
conditional formatting and changes the color of the cell automatically. It helps for easy
identification of the lines which have been allotted with the spare.
Now the total column in each floor will automatically calculate the total amount of the
particular spare issued on that floor. It will be done by an embedded mathematical function.
The issued stock will be the addition of all the stocks issued in each floor. It is also a simple
mathematical function.
The issued stock will be deducted from the total stack and display the on-hand stock.
The above discussed is the standard operating procedure for the excel sheet database.
Page 133
Page 134
19.2 Additional Features:
An additional feature of color change formatting is done to easily identify the issued lines.
A traffic light system is developed for the on hand stock. It shows GREEN LIGHT when on
hand stock is more than 20 (i.e. we have enough stock), ORANGE LIGHT, when stock is
between 10-20 (i.e. our stock is going to exhaust soon), RED LIGHT, when we have on
hand stock less than 10 (i.e. our stock is almost exhausted and we need to order more from
central warehouse).
Embedded mathematical formulas. No need to calculate each time.
Easy to enter in cells.
Auto calculation of all stocks.
Conditional cell color formatting.
Traffic Light system for asset management.
Easy editable features.
Easy addition of rows and columns.
Page 135

19.3 SWOT ANALYSIS
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Data duplicity can be done
Easy to Enter
Mistakes are untraceable
Easy Updation of data
Less secured data
Traffic light system
NO proper security
Easily implemented online
Threat
Opportunity
More Tables can be added easily.
Other
ERP
which
has
more

excel format.

MS OFFICE, SAP, ORACLE is some of
Can be online.
Design can be changed at low cost and
the
greatest
threats
towards
this
Microsoft office database.
effort.
Page 136

Database evaluation format/ Feedback from industry
Name:
Sumathi S
Designation:
Maintenance Executive and ERP operator.
Rate these following parameters as per your satisfaction. 1 is worst and 5 is best.
Overall appearance.
2
Data import/ export facility.
Flexibility (format) of the database.
Filtering and searching.

2
User friendliness.
2
Security from data redundancy (loss of data).

2
Archiving information/ Re sourcing.

2
Page 137
Equipment history.
Potential future cost factor.
Customizable screen.
Report Generation.
Security.
Connectivity.
Updating.
Final efficiency Rating.

2
Signature: Sumathi S
Date: 07.07.2011
Page 138

19.4 Solution 2
Creating a relational database in MS OFFICE ACCESS
The excel sheet used for this kind of situation is one of the easiest solution. But the problem in
excel sheet is error may occur there in slight mistake and tracking of error will be a problem.
The history of issuing list is not added in the excel sheet. So in case of future reference or
tracing of any breakdown cannot be done so easily. Thus a relational database management
system is required in order to attain this kind of situation.
19.4.a The information required:
For this kind of database al the spares need to be divided in to certain CODES. Each code may
contain many types of spare parts of similar kind. For example we created A1, A2.A11 as
codes. In that code we have few similar folders, pressure foot etc.
The specific location is the line/batch number i.e. 1 to 32 in case of our industry as it has 32
batches over all. Each batch corresponds to a particular floor. For example batch 1 to batch 8
belongs to floor 1 and batch 24-batch 32 belongs to floor 4 etc.
19.5 The database:
The spare register database has some specific features and functionalities in relation with
spare tracking and report generation.
Whenever the data base is opened it shows a predefined macro that display the main forms
and reports on the front page.
This macro displays:
Issue Form
Return Form
Folder Form
Location Form
Report Form
Exit
Page 139
19.5.a FOLDER FORM:

When a new item is in warded in the factory it should be entered in FOLDER FORM. This
form supports any existing item and new item also. The data required for this form is:
Field Name
Data Type
Selection Frame
Tick Box (with value)
CODE
Text
Description
Text Box and combo box
Available quantity
Number (embedded row source)
Received quantity
Number
Page 140
Once a consignment is received from the head office it should be entered in the folder form.
filled and SAVED in the relevant table.
If it is a new item the selection box should be clicked on new item. Then the particulars to be
If it is and existing item and the factory receives some more quantity then the option existing
item should be selected and the proper code and description of tem has to be selected.
Now it will sow automatically the available quantity from an embedded re query option that
has been pre defined.
Once the new received quantity is entered and the data is updated and the new stock
amount is automatically added into base field table.
It will create a pop-up stating that record has been saved in the table.
There are few additional buttons to help the operations. These are discusses as below:
Page 141

Button
Function
Save
Save the record in table
Update
Updated the record in the field
Edit
Edit the record
Delete
Delete the record
Find
Find a particular record
Issue it
To open the issue form
Open report
Opens the concerned report
Mail Report
Mail the report in outlook
Close
Close the form
Quit
Quit Application
19.5.b ISSUE FORM:

When a floor requires some spare or folders it needs to be entered in the issue form.
It has some predefined rows which need not to be filled by the operators. It automatically
generates a ID number which is same as of JOB NO and it is an auto numbers, thus it is
easy to track any issue.
Page 142
The fields to be filled here are:

Field
Data Type
ID
Auto number
ISSUE/RETURN
Predefined
CODE
Drop down list box
DESCRIPTION
Drop down combo box
LOCATION
Drop down text box
FLOOR
Drop down text box
TOTAL QUANTITY
Pre defined number
ISSUED QUANTITY
Pre defined number
QUANTITY TO BE ISSUED
Number
PERSON
Text
DATE
Date/Time
TIME
Date/Time
REMARKS
Text box
Page 143
ID here will act as job number and it will generate an automatic id for each and every issue
for easy reference.
The next option to be filled is the CODE of the item. It is a drop down box here we need to
select from existing codes.
The description of all the items from the specific code needs to be selected from the drop
down box and as it is a re-query macro it will show only those descriptions which are falling
under the particular code.
Next is to select to which batch it has been allocated. It will automatically fill the floor from
the location table.
Once the CODE and DSCRIPTION is entered it will show the total quantity and previously
issued quantity in the respective fields and the macro will calculated the available quantity
for the issuing purpose.

Next is to fill up the name of the responsible person for those issued spare.
The date and time has to be entered and saved.
In case of any remarks we can note it down at the last field.
The buttons included are:

Button
Issue Details
Function
Shows the details of previous issues of same spare parts
Save
Save the record in table
Update
Updated the record in the field
Edit
Edit the record
Delete
Delete the record
Find
Find a particular record
Return it
To open the return form
Open report
Opens the concerned report
Mail Report
Mail the report in outlook
Close
Close the form
Quit
Quit Application
Page 144

It generates a report named total spare report that shows the entire details of spares in the
store.
19.5.c RETURN FORM

When an item is returned from the batch to the store it should be entered in this form.
Page 145
The operator has to select the location or the batch from the drop down box. It will display all the
folders issued to the batch.
Select the item that has been issued. It will show the issued quantity and return quantity will be
entered in the row below it.
If the return quantity is not equal to the issued quantity then a pop up will verify whether this
amount is correct is not.
Once this is entered the item will be again re stored in the store keeping unit. The total on hand
stock will be automatically increased there. Remarks can be stored here too.
Page 146

19.5.d REPORT FORM
This form is used to generate various kinds of reports in the database. For easy filtering there
are certain values that has to be entered in the text box and the correspondence report will be
shown in that.
In case you want the report in order of jb number/ID, here you can generate that too.
If a report needed for a particular product that can be done in second box.
If a record needed for a particular time period that also can be done.
Page 147

JOB ORDER/ID WISE REPORT
CODE WISE REPORT
Page 148

History card
19.6 Additional Features:
Can handle any amount of data.
No Duplicity.
Data redundancy.
Better report generating capacity.
Page 149

19.7 SWOT Analysis
Strength
Weakness
User Friendly
Local network
Low Cost
Yet to be online
Easy Updation
Needs MS Office for running
Data Encapsulation/ Security
Less
LAN connectivity
detailed
process
than
the
current ERP i.e. MOVEX
Report generation
Opportunity
Threat
More Tables can be added.
Other

Can be online.
Design can be changed at low cost.
ERP
which
has
more

database.
SAP, ORACLE are some of the the
greatest threats towards this Microsoft
office database.
Adaptability is more.
Page 150

Database evaluation format/ Feedback from industry
Name:
Mr. Abdul Naseer
Designation:
Maintenance Manager
Rate these following parameters as per your satisfaction. 1 is worst and 5 is best.
Overall appearance.
2
Data import/ export facility.
Flexibility (format) of the database.
Filtering and searching.

2
User friendliness.
2
Security from data redundancy (loss of data).

2
Archiving information/ Re sourcing.

2
Page 151
Equipment history.
Potential future cost factor.
Customizable screen.
Report Generation.
Security.
Connectivity.
Updating.
Final efficiency Rating.

2
Signature: Abdul Naseer

Date: 14.07.2011
Page 152

20.0 PROJECT III
ON LINE IMPLEMENTATION OF FINISHING MACHINES IN PRODUCTION BATCHES A
COST BENEFIT ANALYSIS
Objective: To implement the buttoning machines i.e. both KAJA and SNAP in sewing batches
for stable production and better quality.
Studies conducted:
We collected data from the sewing floor and the buttoning section for the ten consecutive days
and found the data described below:
20.1 Total production in batches that require KAJA BUTTON finishing:
Date
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
Production
1st Floor
700
850
600
550
325
550
800
875
425
800
925
Production
2nd Floor
1700
1800
1788
1721
1650
1150
1600
1500
1800
2000
2150
Production
3rd Floor
2500
2400
2250
1505
2225
2000
2000
2300
2500
2500
2500
Production
4th Floor
2618
2580
2212
3350
3150
3250
3275
3400
3425
3225
3400
Total Feed
to Buttoning Section
7518
7630
6850
7126
7350
6950
7675
8075
8150
8525
8975
Total Production of KAJA button section during the same time period:
Date
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
Production
1st Floor
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Production
2nd Floor
1940
0
0
0
0
0
875
1435
Production
3rd Floor
1365
2535
2365
3245
3335
1248
3630
3135
Production
4th Floor
2000
2000
2435
2341
6420
3459
5700
4250
Total Feed
to Washing
5305
4535
4800
5586
9755
4707
10205
8820
Page 153

18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
0
0
0
1000
1550
1490
3135
3090
2567
3900
2860
4508
8035
7500
8565
The production difference (WIP) in these two departments are:
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
WIP in KAJA
2213
3095
2050
1540
-2405
2243
-2530
-745
115
1025
410
Total difference in those 10 days
(Batches)
84824
Diff.
Total in 10 days
(KAJA)
77813
7011
This shows highly unstable and unsynchronized production rate of the production floor and
buttoning section.
Similarly the same study was conducted for the snap buttons also. The data is given below:
The total number of shirts that has been produced during the time period that requires snap
button are,
Page 154
Date
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
Date
Production
1st Floor
1600
1600
2020
2200
550
2458
1800
1990
2245
2168
2234
Production
2nd Floor
09.06.2011
10.06.2011
11.06.2011
13.06.2011
14.06.2011
15.06.2011
16.06.2011
17.06.2011
18.06.2011
20.06.2011
21.06.2011
Output of floor
1045
1205
1280
1708
2375
2278
1375
1560
1665
1580
1571
Output of snap
The production difference or WIP is:

WIP in Snap Buttoning
09.06.2011
555
10.06.2011
395
11.06.2011
740
13.06.2011
492
14.06.2011
-1825
15.06.2011
180
16.06.2011
425
17.06.2011
430
18.06.2011
580
20.06.2011
588
21.06.2011
663
Total difference in 10 days
(Batches)
20865
Diff.
Total in 10 days
(SNAP)
17642
3223
Page 155

This also shows similar trend. The drawbacks for this kind of production system are the production rate
is very highly unstable.
This affects to maintain the continuous quality level and the huge work in process is a constrain to lean
implementation.
There is a non uniform feed to the washing section and its full capacity is not utilized for the unstable
finishing rate.
Some times over time is done in order to full fill the demand. Again over time involve more cost and
extra effort.
The buttoning section has 6 to 8 helpers to assist the work (i.e. close the snaps and check the buttons).
It need more cost involvement.
20.2 Cost Involvement:
Extra manpower in buttoning section: 10 per floor for helping and packaging.
Total manpower in three floors: 30
Approximate salary: 3200 INR per month
Total extra salary paid by the company to helpers: 96,000 INR
Quality checkers in one floor: 4
Total quality checkers in three floors: 12
Approximate salary: 4000 INR
Total salary paid to the quality checkers: 48,000 INR
Supervisors in each floor: 2
Total number of supervisors: 6
Approximate salary paid to supervisors: 6000 INR
Total salary paid to all the supervisors: 36,000 INR
Page 156

Total Extra cost involvement by paying the salary to workers is: 180,000 INR per month.
Apart from these costs there are many other indirect cost involvements in the process:
i)
High WIP holds the money.
ii)
Material storing and holding cost for the left over items.
iii)
Before shipment the overtime done by the workers involves more money (double).
iv)
Space taken by buttoning section can be used for additional batches.
20.3 Suggestion:
The suggestion is to implement buttoning machines of required number in the sewing batch itself so
that these additional costs will be eliminated. There are total 32 batches in the entire factory and if all
the finishing machines can be accommodated in the batches then it would be 64 machines in total
which can be adjusted as the machinery flow is centralized for all the units in Bengaluru. The additional
workers can be utilized by other departments and the end line quality checker will be inspecting the
output of the finishing machines also. So we suggest online implementation of buttoning machines in
this unit.
Page 157

21.0 PROJECT IV
CALCULATOR FOR PLANNING DEPARTMENT AND EFFICIENCY ANALYSIS OF THE UNIT AND
ITS EFFECT ON ACHIEVING THE TOTAL EFFICIENCY OF THE FACTORY
Objective: To create a simple calculator for easy calculation for the planning department and to study
the daily efficiency of a line starting from a new style introduction and follow it till the maximum
efficiency has been achieved along with appropriate quality.
Studies conducted:
We collected data from the sewing floor from different batches for the ten consecutive days and
recorded that data and calculated the efficiency.
A. Production Planning:
For a planner there is an efficiency block for every factory as per the man power availability and
complexity of the style. Planner has fixed a particular value as the efficiency of the entire factory which
is based on the previous values and performance records. Shahi unit 9 has a simple planning
department consisting of only one planner. The planner analyzes all the production schedules and
performance and plans for the next line opening or production schedules. For this the department has
no software for easy calculation. The ERP which is implemented for scheduling is used only for
entering the schedule and it never helps to calculate automatically.
All the calculations are based on the simple mathematical calculation. That is given below,
Capacity =
No. of operator/ workforce X Total available minutes X Efficiency

SAM X 100
21. 1 SOLUTION:
We created an excel sheet which utilizes this simple formula and automatically generates the required
output like number of days required to complete the job, lines required etc.
Page 158
21.1.a INPUTS REQUIRED:
Planner has to just input the
Order Quantity
Number of machines utilized per batch/line
Total available working minutes
SAM of the particular style
Efficiency block of the unit/ line
Number of batches utilized for the same style.
21.1.b OUTPUT GENERATED:

It will automatically show the results. That includes:
Daily output per batch

Number of days required to complete the order
Page 159

21.1. c ADDITIONAL FEATURE:
If number of days is limited and lead time is not negotiable and predefined, then the number of days
need to be filled in the last row i.e. target days fix. The sheet will automatically feature the number of
batches required to complete the order within the specified time.
21.1.d ADVANTAGES:
Saves time.
Can generate various additional calculations within no time.
previous records also.
21.2
Accurate.
If connected with and database management systems like MS ACCESS then can be used to track
Reduces paper work.

Many useful additional features.
Proper planning can be done and lead time negotiation will be easier.
Efficiency Analysis
As discussed in previous part the production planning can be calculated and effective date sheet can
be prepared for the master production schedule.
It is noted that when a new style is being introduced the exact efficiency cannot be achieved on the first
day itself. As the style and its construction is new it always takes some time for the operators to get
used to the sewing. It is believed that it always takes few days for the operators to achieve the
maximum efficiency. In this time period the efficiency is known as ladder efficiency. . And it is also
believed that the day when maximum on date efficiency is achieved from that day only the quality is
stabilized. Thus it affects the master production schedule as for the starting few days the production is
definitely low. So it needs to be monitored and categorized style wise for future reference.
Page 160

Study:
This study comprises of production and efficiency analysis of newly introduced styles and forecasting
the maximum required efficiency achieving day for the convenience of the planning and production
personnel.
Few styles were selected for this study. They are- Style 83045, Style 32316T, Style 43805, Style
40310, and Style 34216P.
21.2.a Achieving Maximum efficiency on Day 2
It is observed that for the familiar designs the maximum efficiency can be achieved on the second day
itself. But when we calculate the total efficiency, then the total average efficiency will be achieved on 5th
day. This can be described in the given table. Here the optimum on date efficiency can be taken as
80% (fixed target for Shahi) and total target average efficiency can be taken as 70% (fixed by Shahi).
This analysis is generated by the data collected from style 8305 which is a simple floral skirt having
only few specific operations. All the similar kind of products can be included in this production slab.
Day
1
2
3
4
5
Peak achieved at Day 2

Production Production
On date
Cumulative
149
149
384
533
384
917
384
1301
384
1685
Efficiency
On date
31
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
31
56
64
68
70
Page 161
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1
21.2.b Achieving Maximum efficiency on Day 3

It is observed that for the familiar designs the maximum efficiency can be achieved on the third day
itself. But when we calculate the total efficiency, then the total average efficiency will be achieved on
10th day. This analysis is generated by the data collected from style 32216T which is a semi casual
shirt. All the similar kind of products can be included in this production slab. The table and analysis is
given below:-
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

On date
Cumulative
101
101
202
302
384
686
384
1070
384
1454
384
1838
384
2222
384
2606
384
2990
384
3374
Efficiency
On date
21
42
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
21
32
48
56
61
64
58
68
69
70
Page 162
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1
10
11
21.2.c Achieving Maximum efficiency on Day 4

17th day. This analysis is generated by the data collected from style 40310 which is a paneled ladies
shirt with 2 front pockets. All the similar kind of products can be included in this production slab. The
table and analysis is given below:-
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14

On date
Cumulative
48
48
101
149
226
374
384
758
384
1142
384
1526
384
1910
384
2294
384
2678
384
3062
384
3446
384
3830
384
4214
384
4598
Efficiency
On date
10
21
47
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
10
16
26
40
48
53
50
60
62
64
65
67
68
68
Page 163

15
16
17
384
384
384
4982
5366
5750
80
80
80
69
70
70
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
21.2.d Achieving Maximum efficiency on Day 5

19th day. This analysis is generated by the data collected from style 34216P which is a paneled top with
knit side panel and 2 front pockets. All the similar kind of products can be included in this production
slab. The table and analysis is given below:-
Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

On date
Cumulative
48
48
101
149
202
350
302
653
384
1037
384
1421
384
1805
384
2189
384
2573
Efficiency
On date
10
21
42
63
80
80
80
80
80
Efficiency
Cumulative
10
16
24
34
43
49
47
57
60
Page 164

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
384
2957
3341
3725
4109
4493
4877
5261
5645
6029
6413
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
80
62
63
65
66
67
68
69
69
70
70
90
80
70
60
50
Efficiency
40
Efficency
30
20
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Page 165

21.3 Discussion:
As shown in the table if the on date efficiency is achieved earlier, then the average target efficiency will
be achieved more quickly. This will result in more production rate and ultimately more profit. The quality
will be stabilized quickly then low rejection will be there. After having this chart all the new styles can be
categorized into few groups as per the efficiency achieving day and proper care can be taken for the
complicated garments. As shown in figures the styles which fall in Group E (say) (achieving day 5) will
stabilize its production on 19th day only. Before that quality and production problem will be a major
issue. So if there will be a proper grouping as per the above discussed facts and figures then it will be
much easier for the planning personnel. The groups can be made from previous production records and
efficiency reports. Each slab will contain similar categories of garments having nearly equal SAM and
design complexity. Thus when similar style comes it will be easier for planning people to analyze and
forecast the production trend for future. If any style goes beyond the above said time line that also can
be included in a new group and used for future reference.
21.4 Conclusion:
This study shows how early achieving of maximum efficiency helps in achieving total average efficiency
as quickly as possible. This stabilizes the production and quality. The slab system helps the planner to
identify the complex styles and proper care and monitoring can be taken for those styles. Planning for
different slabs will be different and thus exact and accurate master production schedule can be
implemented more easily.
Page 166

22.0 LEARNING EXPERIENCE
After this garment internship, we got to learn about the working process of a garment industry.
We also got to learn about the following things:22.1
Various departments of the garment industry

We learnt about the work-flow of the following departments:
Sampling department
Fabric stores department
Planning department
Production department
Embroidery department
Quality Assurance
Human Resource
Fabric audit department
Accessory Store department
Cutting department
IED department
Washing department
Finishing Department
Maintenance Department
22.2 Plant layout of the industry

We have studied the layout of the industry and how it is useful towards the production and
ergonomics.
This study helped us to understand the material-flow in the industry .
The unit which we visited was a five-storied building which was like this :
Ground floor Fabric store, Embroidery, Cutting, Sampling and administrative office.
Second floor Sewing, Finishing and Packaging
First floor Sewing, Finishing and Packaging
Third floor Sewing, Finishing and Packaging

Page 167
Fourth floor Sewing, Finishing and Packaging

Fifth Floor: Canteen and Training
Basement: Trim store, Washing department, Maintenance
We also studied the machinery and equipments, man power, capacity etc.
The application of industrial engineering was most useful to us as we did capacity study for
spreading and cutting, elemental break down for production floor etc.
Accordingly, we gave some suggestions to improve the current working method and increase the
productivity.
More over the entire internship time period was divided effectively in accordance with the availability
of the concerned person and other factors like buyer meetings, audits etc.
This was an abundant and knowledge gaining experience for all of us.
Page 168
Thank You
Page 169

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Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.

1.0 Objective of the internship

2.0 Role of Garment Industry in Indian GDP

3.0 Introduction to the company

8.0 Industrial Engineering Department

9.0 Fabric Store

10.0 Trim and Accessory Store

13.0 Production (Sewing)

15.0 Quality Assurance

16.0 Finishing and Packaging

17.0 Human Resources

20.0 Project III

21.0 Learning Experience

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

To gain practical exposure on real life on job experience.

To apply the theoretical class room knowledge in practical situations.

It aims toward blending the theoretical knowledge with work experience.

To observe the process flow from order placement till shipment.

Learn the various manufacturing process.

To work on a mutually identified problem or assignment or project and work on it.

1.1 STATEMENT OF STUDY

1.2 SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Tops Semi Casual Wear

Bottoms Semi Casual Wear

100% cotton, poplins, twills, light canvas

Rib stop, Herringbone weave, Bedford cords, Sateen weave

Madras, special madras, seersuckers, dobbies and jacquards.

Mill made checks and stripes

100% Linen, checks and stripes, solids

Womenswear Ladies Fashion Division

Cotton Nylon Spandex

Synthetics: Moss Crape, Terry Voile, Georgette, Burnout, and Velvet

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Woven Casual Tops

Woven Casual Bottoms

Wrinkle Free Shirts & Blouses

Cotton Voils / Cambric / Poplin / Twill / Denims / Wrinkle Free

Chino shorts and pants

Cargo shorts and pants

Basic Skirts in heavy weight fabrics' up to 9 0z

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Best exporters Award from AEPC

Best Vendor of the year rated by Wal-Mart/JC Penney/ Target.

Best Manufacturing facilities rated by NIFT.

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.

Private Ltd., Export House

Rs. 150 crores

4000 capacity, currently-3,100

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-7 (Bengaluru operations),

Ladies Specialty Division (LSD & LFD)- Tops, dresses etc

FABRICS BEING HANDLED

Centralized decision all major mill made and power loom

suppliers in India and abroad, Main suppliers include Arvind,

All major brands in USA and Europe. Refer page 5.

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Ground Floor (Not to scale)

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9

Floor 1 to 4 (Not to scale)