How To Decorate A Garment - Fabric - Garment Decoration Techniques - Dkte Textile Notes PDF

2/26/2015
HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques|DkteTextileNotes
HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/Garment
DecorationTechniques
DecoratingGarments:
Garments are decorated based on the end usage by affixing sequins, rhinestones,
embroideryetc.toenhancetheappearanceofthefinalproducts.Whetheryouaresellingit
or thinking of producing it yourself, the technology behind the decoration will play an
important part in your sales strategy and the more you know the better. In fact, selling
decorated apparel without a basic understanding of the production processes could be
costingyoumoney.
Fromatechnicalperspective,yourknowledgeofwhatcanandcannotbeproducedbyeach
differentmethodwillgoalongwayinhowyoudealwithyourcustomersneeds.Atthe
sametime,youwillbeabletoavoidcostlymistakes(intermsofmoneyandlostaccounts)
bypromisingthingsthatsimplyarentpossible.Fromacreativeperspective,themoreyou
knowabouttheexcitingarrayofappareldecorationprocesses,thebetter,asitwillputyou
inapositiontoshowyourcustomersnewconceptsandlooks,thatcansetyouapartfrom
yourcompetition.Thisinturnwillultimatelybringmorebusinessyourway.Anybodycan
sellawhitepoloshirtwithanembroideredlogo,butwhataboutapolarfleecevestwiththe
samelogodonevialaseretchingorperhapsadenimjacketwithachenilleversion?
TypesofFabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques:
1. Embroidery
2. Appliqu
3. Biastrimmings
4. Ricrac
5. 3DFoam
6. Sequins
7. Ruffles
8. Smocking
9. Faggoting
10. ChenilleEmbroidery
11. Lace
12. Lacemotifs
13. HeatTransfers
14. Beltsandbow
15. Decorativefasteners
16. LaserEtching
17. Pockets
18. Scallopededging
19. Screenprinting
20. DirectToGarmentPrinting(DigitalPrinting)
21. Rhinestones
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1.Embroidery:
Simple embroidery designs enhance the appearance of childrens garments. In the dress
design chain stitch for couching stitch can been worked to small motifs with lazy daisy
stitches or bullion stitches are worked within the false yoke and godet. Instead of
embroidery,beadsorsequinscanbeapplied.
Embroidery
Embroideryisnormallypricedbythenumberofstitchesinadesignandpricesareusually
quotedincostperthousandstitches.Morestitchesmeansmoretimetoproduceandof
courseabiggerpricetag.
Therearetwokeyrequirementsforembroideringanygivenitem:
1. Youmustbeabletogetaneedlethroughit.
2. Youmustbeabletogetitintoahooporframe.
Situationstoavoidwithembroidery:
Verysmallletteringanddetail.Lettersbelowinheightaretoughtosew
properly.
Largedesigns.Highstitchcountsarepriceyduetotheproductiontime.
Flimsygarments.Embroideryqualityisaffectedbygarmentquality.
Stiffrigidfabrics.Theymaynotbehoopable.
Layereditems.Apocketforexample,astheembroideryprocessmaysewit
closed.
2.Applique:
Applique is a cutout piece of fabric that is stitched to a larger background for
decoration.Thisisapopularwayofdecoratingfabrics.Shapesofonefabricareappliedto
thesurfaceorbackgroundofanotherfabricusingafinezigzagstitchorasintheexample
shown,withastraightstitch,whichoverlapstheedgeofeachshape.Thepatternpiecesthat
makeuptheappliquareusuallybackedwithinterfacingtogivethemstrength.
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Applique
The appliqu look is very popular with sports and school designs. The process can be
usedtoaddtackletwillletters,numbersanddesignstogarments.
3.Biastrimmings:
Biasbindingincontrastingmaterialorselffabriccanbeusedtofinishnecklines,opening
andhemsingarments.Biastubingcanbeusedformakingdecorativebuttonloops.
Biastrimmings
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4.Ricrac:
Thisisavailableindifferentcolorsatverylowcostandisverydurable.(Itshouldbetested
for color fastness before attaching to garment). Ric rac can be sewn flat on thegarment
throughthecentreoritmaybeattachedaroundedgesorbetweenseamssothatjustone
edge is show on the right side of the garment. A motif made of ric rac adds further
decoration.
Ricrac
5.3DFoamEmbroidery
3DFoamembroideryisarelativelysimpleprocessthatanyembroidererhasthecapability
ofproducingthoughitdoesrequiresomespecialtechniquesduringthedigitizingprocess.
Theapplicationiscreatedbyintroducingapieceoffoammaterialintothesewingprocess.
Thestitchespenetrateandlockthefoamintothedesignsuchthatspecificelementsofthe
logoaresignificantlyraisedupabovetherestofthedesign.
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3DFoamEmbroidery
6.SequinEmbroidery
Sequinsarestartingtomakeanimpactontheimprintedsportswearmarket.Longrelegated
tosparklytheatricalgarments,sequins(orspangles)arenowappearingonmoremainstream
products, from retail to souvenir. Of course, the applications are still limited due to the
natureofthelook,buttherearestillplentyofpossibilities.Thistechniquecanbeused
on just about any design and garment, provided the Embroiderer makes the necessary
adjustmentsduringthedigitizingprocesstoaccommodatethephysicalpieceoffoam.
SequinEmbroidery
7.Ruffles:
Thisisalsoatypeoffrill.Tomakeapatternforcircularruffle.Cutapieceofcircularfabric
withitsinnercircleequaltothecircumferenceofthenecklineanditsoutercircle12
awayfromtheinnercircle.Cutthecircularfabricatanyonepointandattachittheinner
circletothenecklineofthegarment.Doublerufflecanbeattachedtothearmholehemline
oneithersides.Theplacementofthedoublerufflegivesapanelledeffecttothefrontofthe
garment.
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Ruffles
8.Smocking:
Thisisdonebygatheringandembroideringoverthegathers.Thiscanbeworkedonlyover
aplaincloth.Whenthisisdonewithpracticethislooksattractive.Afterknottingthethread
workrunningstitchesfromrighttoleftofequalwidth.Gatherthefabricandwinditover
the pin head. Then work desired stitch over the gathered fabric. This is used to decorate
waistline, sleeve, neckline, Yoke and any other part of the garment. This stitch looks
attractiveandlikedbymanyofthem.
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Smocking
9.Faggoting:
Thistrimisusedbetweenseamstogiveadecorativetouchortoaddthelengthorwidthof
garment. To executive the design cut the yoke and the lower section of the blouse
separately,withseamallowances.Alsocuttheyokepatternonheavypaperwithone
inch allowance. Fold under the allowance on edge of the yoke where faggoting is to be
doneandtackthefoldededgetothepreparedpattern.Nowtackalsothelowersectionof
theblouseafterfoldingintheseamallowanceThendothefaggotingwithzigzagstitches
betweenfoldings.
Faggoting
10.ChenilleEmbroidery
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Thoughitstechnicallycalledchenilleembroidery,theprocessisnotdonewithtraditional
embroiderymachines,ratherittakesspecialequipmenttosewchenille.Theapplicationis
bestknownforcreatingthelettersonlettermanjacketsandtheproductlookskindoflike
anoldstyleshagcarpet.However,chenillehasburstforthfromtheschoolmarketandis
nowappearingoncorporateandsouvenirgarmentswithincreasingfrequency.
ChenilleEmbroidery
11.Lace:
Lacecanbeusedasedging,insertionandbanding.Laceforedginghasonestraightedge
whichistobeappliedtothefabric.Itiscommonlyusedattheneckline,armhole,sleeve
hem, garment hem, yoke line etc. Lace may be gathered to give a frilled effect. Lace for
insertionhasitstwoedgesfinishedsymmetrically.Adesignwithfinetucksandinsertionof
lace can be combined and applied in a horizontal direction. The bias tubing inserted in
suchlacecanbetiedintoabow.Thetubingmayalsobepulledtoproducegathers.An
attractive band can be made by placing lace over contrasting or self colored ribbon or
fabric slightly narrower than the lace. The ribbon is then attached to the garment in the
desiredportion.
Lace
12.Lacemotifs:
Lacemotifsareveryeffectivewhensewnovercontrastingfabric.Themotifscanbecutout
fromawidelaceorboughtassuch.Cuttheoutlineofthemotifinacontrastingcolored
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liningfabricandtackittothewrongsideofthelacemotif.Trimtheliningfabricslightly
smaller around the edge. Now, applique the lined motif on the garment in the desired
place.
Lacemotifs
13.HeatTransfers
Heattransfershavelongbeenaquickmethodtoapplyprinteddesignstogarments.Instead
ofcreatingtheimagedirectlyviascreenprintingorDTG,itscreatedonaspecialpaperthat
allowstheimagetotransferontothegarmentwhenheatisapplied.
HeatTransfers
14.Beltsandbow:
These have functional and decorative uses. In childrens garments. fabric belts aremost
commonlyused.Beltsmaybemadeoutofcontrastingmaterialorthegarmentmaterialit
self.Thebeltmaybetiedwithabowatthebackoratoneside.Bowsmaybeattachednear
theneckline,shoulder,hemline,alongthecentrefrontlineetc.
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Beltsandbow
15.Decorativefasteners:
Decorativefasteningsincludefabricbuttonsandloopseyletsandcord,fancybuttons,fabric
buttonholesetc.Onaplaindresswithcontrastingcollarorpiping,buttonscoveredwiththe
collarpipingmaterialwouldbeeffective.Buttonsmaybefixedingroupstocreatedesign
interestgraduallyprogressinginsizefromsmalltobig.
Decorativefasteners
16.LaserEtching
InHollywoodmovieslasersareusedtodestroythingswithawesome,spectacularresults.In
real life, they are typically used for precise detailed applications that require a lot of
finesse,suchasLasiksurgeryforvisioncorrection.Lasershavealsofoundtheirwayinto
the world of imprinted sportswear and can be used to create some amazing designs in a
formatnotreplicatedbyanyotherappareldecorationmethodology.Byusingaprecision
beamofenergymovingatahighspeed,designscanbeuniquelyburnedintoawidevariety
of fabrics without causing any harm to the garment. The process actually removes a fine
layer,leavingasortoftoneontoneimagebehind.
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LaserEtching
17.Pockets:
Pocketsofdifferentshapes,sizesandlocationwithorwithoutdecorativedetailssuitedto
thedesignofthegarmentcanenhancetheappearanceofthegarment.
Pockets
18.Scallopededging:
Scallopedshapesatgarmentedges(neckline,hemlineopeningsetc.)areordinarilymade
bycuttinginthedesiredshapeandfinishingwithbiasbindingorshapedfacing.Asimilar
effectmaybeproducedhoweverbytheuseofembroiderystitches.Theeffectofascalloped
frontopeningisobtainedbydrawingthescallopsinuniformshapeandworkingblanket
stitch with contrasting colored thread along the lines drawn. This can be used in frocks,
skirt,kidswear,neckline,sleeveandintablecloth.
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Scallopededging
19.Screenprinting
Screen printing has been around for ages and is the quickest and cheapest process for
applyinglargedetaileddesignstoavarietyofgarments.
Screenprinting
The process is simple and complex at the same time. The first step is to breakdown the
artworkbycolorreferredtoascolorseparations.Thenaseparatescreencomposedofa
veryfinemeshmaterialiscreatedorforeachcolorseparation.Thescreenwillonlyallow
ink to pass through in the areas defined by that color of the design. Screens are created
usingaspecialphotographicprocesswhichisreferredtoasburningbymostshops.
20.DirectToGarmentPrinting/DigitalPrinting:
Relatively new on the scene, directtogarment printing (DTG) also known as digital
printing is a quick and easy method to print designs directly on garments using an
oversizedinkjetprinterdesignedspecificallyforthispurpose.Unlikescreenprinting,no
color separations and screen creation is required. Theoretically, its just point, click and
printthoughnothingisreallythateasy.
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Digitalprinting
21.Rhinestones:
Much like sequins, rhinestones have traditionally appeared on garments used in the
entertainment business, with a goal of adding glitz and bling to theatrical garb. But
rhinestonesarefindingnewapplicationsinawiderangeofmarkets.
Rhinestones
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