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Airports

april 2013
vol I, Issue 7

INDIA

paris on
a budget
This magazine is provided by AAI for your reading pleasure. Please return it for others to enjoy
Visit www.airports-india.com to read all the articles you find here
Airports Authority of India

Airports Authority of India

From Chairmans Desk


Dear Readers,
It gives me immense pleasure in sharing
with you that AAI on 1st April, 2013, steps
into its 19th year i.e. the last of its teens. As
such, I thought it prudent to give a you a
peek into the core business of AAI and some
of its intricacies.
We at AAI, manage 125 airports, (19
international, seven Customs, eight
Domestic, 19 civil enclaves).
We provide CNS/ATM services at 6 JV
airports (PPP, i.e Delhi, Mumbai, with JV
leased by AAI), Hyderabad, Bengaluru,
Nagpur, & Cochin and six Private / State
Govt airports at Diu, Latur, Lenygpui,
Mundra, Nanded & Puttaparth.
AAI is also responsible for managing
the entire Indian airspace of the country
measuring over 2.8 million square nautical
miles (land area 1.05 NM2 and oceanic area
1.75 NM2).
Managing of airports entails significant
groundwork in terms of having adequate &
proper ground support / safety systems &
infrastructure in place, so as to ensure safe
operation of aircrafts.
Due to the ever changing technology
& also as a result of new / larger airborne
platforms invading the skies, AAI as an
airport operator, perforce has to keep abreast
of the changing scenario which undoubtedly
demands constant monitoring / review of the
facilities / systems available on its inventory.
Therefore, a good amount of investment
has to be incurred by AAI in acquiring
world-class specialized equipment and
vehicles required for maintaining high safety
standards.
AAI being second to none and being the
frontrunner & Mainstay / Face of MCA, has
acquired some of the very vital specialized
equipment for deployment at its airport.
A brief / introductory write up for easy
comprehension of the functionality of the
said equipment are appended:

Runway Surface Friction testing Machine


(ASFT)
This machine measures the friction value
of the runway surface. A sophisticated
computer controlled measuring device is
connected to a special wheel through which
the friction value is instantly measured while
the vehicle cruises at a constant speed of 95
KMPH. The graphical printout of continuous
friction value is generated. All these vehicles
are imported and deployed at various
locations.
Runway Rubber Removal Machine
This sophisticated high pressure (2500 bar)
water jet machine removes the deposited
rubber from the runway to restore the
friction value without causing any damage
to the surface. This machine can remove
rubber up to 800 Square mtr area in one
hour. The rubber is sucked into a storage
tank to avoid runway contamination. AAI
has imported 2 machines from Germany.

90 Meters. AAI was the first in the country


to induct such vehicles. These Austrian
built vehicle costs Rs 3.35 Crores each. In
addition, AAI has also got on its inventory
SFFRVs with High Reach Extendable Turret
(HRET), capable of delivering extinguishing
media up to a height of 15 meters for precise
delivery of media in difficult locations of
the aircraft. These AFFRVs with HRET are
stationed at major airports.

Runway Marking Machine


Busy airports require restoration of various
markings on runway, taxiway and apron in a
very limited time. This sophisticated marking
machine can do such jobs with speed and
accuracy. Machine is capable of marking
lines up to 100 cms width at speed varying
from 4 to 20 KMPH. AAI has two such
machines imported from Germany and they
are being gainfully utilized. It is on the anvil
to procure a few more machines.

Runway Mechanical Sweeper.


Foreign Object Debris (FODs), are a
potential threat to the operation of aircraft
whilst on ground, as its entry may get sucked
into the engine & thereby cause heavy
damages. Effective and speedy removal of
FODs is ensured by these machines. This
machine can sweep up to 90000 Sq Mtr in
one hour at a speed of 40 KMPH.
The above elucidated facts are a clear
testimony of AAIs commitment and
concerted efforts in ensuring that the
desired degree of safety is provided &
maintained at all its airports. It is on the
anvil to not only augment the infrastructure,
thereby enhancing safety but also to conduct
continuous safety audit & evaluate its
efficacy. Happy reading and Bon Voyage!

Airfield Fire Fighting and Rescue Vehicle


(AFFRV or ACFT)
Fire services at the airport plays a vital role
in aviation safety and AFFRV is its backbone.
This vehicle carries 10000 to 12000 liters of
water and 1500 liters of foam and is capable
of achieving 0 to 80 KMPH speed in less than
30 seconds. It can throw extinguishing media
at 4500 Liters per minute up to a distance of

V.P. Agrawal
Chairman, Airports Authority of India

April 2013

Visit airports-india.com

Contents

22 vikramshila

CHAIRMAN, ADVISORY BOARD


V.P AGRAWAL Chairman, AAI
EDITORIAL BOARD (AAI)
G.S.Bawa, D.Ghosh
From trendsetter marketing
Managing director
Durbar Ganguly
EDITOR
Moutussi Acharyya
SENIOR EDITORIAL CONSULTANT
Gp. Capt. (Retd) D.C Mehta

paris on a budget

ASST. ART DIRECTOR


ajeet singh naudiyal

8
maneating
LEOPARDS

MARKETING
National Advertising Director
Jai Talwar-9820087277
Chief General Manager
Mahmood Ahmad
Jetender Rawat
Anil Kr. Kashmiria

48

Team
Gunjan Kapoor, Sofiqul Islam,
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Gurpreet Gandhi, p.t. biju

land of the hoysalas

52

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099352101214
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COORDINATION
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sexy
36 esha

66

neemrana fort

wonderful
world

60
76 mBkb, Luks&VwfjTe dk etk
84

horoscope

86

Airports of india

paris je
taime

Moutussi Acharyya
tells you how to see
Paris on the cheap

View of the Eiffel Tower from


the Place du Trocadero

ho hasnt dreamt of going to


Paris, the city of romance,
with magnificent monuments
such as the Eiffel Tower and
the Arc de Triomphe, which have no other
function but to be seen and admired. For
many though, visiting it remains just a distant
dream because Paris has acquired a reputation as one of the worlds most expensive
cities. But Paris can be done on a shoestring
budget, if you have courage and a sense of
adventure. Just because you find yourself in
the City of Lights surrounded by expensive
hotels, designer boutiques and bars serving
20 cocktails, doesnt mean you have to fol-

low the crowd and empty your back account.


Aside from walking around absorbing the
sights and sounds of Paris, there are plenty of
other free things to do.
The French capital is a cultural melting
pot, the city that never sleeps, and for the
first time visitor on a whirlwind tour, it is
both fascinating and bewildering. But dont
be afraid to explore and get off the beaten
track and ask for help if you get lost. Contrary
to reputation, the French are an extremely
helpful race and will go out of their way to
give you directions about the most mundane
things, like negotiating your way around the
metro system. Locals become a bit standoffish if you speak English so arm yourself with
a phrasebook. Even broken French results in
you facing the full force of their Gallic charm.
They seem delighted to share their knowledge and their interest and excitement are
contagious.

TRANSPORT

Your flight to Paris will cost 30 to 60 per


cent more in the summer. Booking early
and checking different dates before you buy
those plane tickets can mean huge savings
on airfare. If you are travelling to Paris from
European cities like London, Boulogne,
Amsterdam and Brussels, you could get a
Megabus ticket with one-way fares ranging
from just 1 to 40 depending on when you
book. The coach services Eurolines and Idbus
also offer great promotions and the Eurostar
train is quick, comfortable and relatively

Outdoor cafe

cheap. Easy Jet flights from London are usually 40 to 60.


The cheapest transport from the airport
to the city is Roissybus, which runs every 15
minutes between the airport and Place de
lOpera (10) and travel pass is also valid.
Walking is always free and Paris is a very
walkable city. For other modes of transport,
a Navigo Decouverte travel pass is much
cheaper than individual tickets and offers unlimited travel in the metro, buses and trains
in the relevant travel zones for a week or
month. The ticket will have to be put through
the machine at the gate but do not forget to
retrieve it. The Metro is extremely convenient but make sure you familiarise yourself
with the metro map, (you can get one in any
station), and ask a station attendant or fellow
travellers for help.
The best way to travel in Paris is by bus
as it allows you to see the city, and saves you
the physical exertion required in the metro,
but study bus routes and numbers or ask
the driver for help (if he is obliging). Never
punch in your pass, just flash it at the driver.
Hop-on-hop-off guided tours with LOpen
or other open-top Paris Bus tours cost around
20 and allow you to break off your tour at
any point and continue later. Tickets are valid
for two days.
Renting a car in Paris is a nightmare, and
you could well get lost in this huge city, exacerbated by parking problems. Since the Metro
is quick and cheap, taxis are also an absolute

The Thinker on his pedestal


in the Rodin Museum garden

no-no. A ride only a few kilometers long can


cost you a fortune, especially late at night,
when taxi fares go up further. If you are stuck
after the Metro shuts down at 1 am (2.15 am
on Friday and Saturday), the only option is
the Noctilien night buses, where the travel
pass is valid.

WALKING

Paris favours pedestrians: it is an absolute


horror for motorists, not least because of
the endless traffic jams. A romantic stroll in
the streets of Paris, taking in the beautiful
architecture, people watching, admiring the
fantastic window displays and visiting all the
sights (only from the outside), will not cost
you a penny. Dont zig-zag across Paris. Map
out all the attractions in one area before you
go so you dont waste either time or money
doubling back. Just download free guided
tours to your iPod or MP3, arm yourself with
a map, choose a neighbourhood Montmartre, the Marais, Left Bank, or the ChampsElyses, and start walking. One of the best
ways to see Paris is on a walking tour. Contact
Paris walking Tours, the Caisse National des
Monuments Historiques, Anne Herve, Sandemans New Europe or French Links. Or join
the French hiking club for their Paris walks.
Find a free walking tour. It is a great threehour bargain (though you should leave a tip
for the guide). Paris Tourism office also offers
guides to free, self-guided walking tours.
The best way to really soak in the spectacular
views of Paris is usually to climb up some-

The Arc de Triomphe on the Champs-Elyses

thing thats tall. Besides the Eiffel Tower,


the Notre dame, the Arc de Triomphe and
the Sacre Coeur Church in the Montmartre
neighbourhood, one of the best views of
Paris can be had from the roof deck at the La
Samaritaine department store at Pont Neuf,
on the banks of the Seine.
The Vlib bicycle sharing system in Paris
is a great idea. You can rent a bike and go all
over the city for a week for 8. If you dock
the bike back into a stand within 30 minutes,
the ride is free, or you pay by the hour. You
can also take a free bicycle ride with Paris
Rando Velo on Friday nights at 9:30 pm or
every third Sunday at 10:30 am, starting in
front of the Hotel de Ville. Cycling through
the city is really not all that dangerous if you
take guided tours (bicycle maps are available
at tourist offices). At the weekend, the streets
along the banks of the Seine are closed to
vehicles, clearing the way for skaters, pedestrians and cyclists.

the back of their bookshop.


Many great youth hostels welcome people
of all ages, with beds usually starting around
20-25/night. Todays hip hostels, with their
stylish interiors, gourmet food and free wi-fi,
are a far cry from the chilly dorms of the past.
While hostels in the outskirts of the city cost
a few euros less, it will just make everything
about your trip much easier if you stay in a
central location. The cheapest stay is in student hostels, for travellers between 18 and 30.
Le Fourcy, near the St Paul Metro, at 6, Rue
de Fourcy, offers very good rates in a dormitory, breakfast included.
If you have a big budget, you can opt to
Bistro on the Seine

ACCOMMODATION

If you are not fussy about sharing bathrooms


you can get extremely cheap accommodation
or even doss down for free for a night or two
at some shelters in Paris. There are plenty of
free couch-surfing accommodation schemes
which lists hundreds of Parisians willing to
provide you a bed for free. Hospitality Club
has more than 9000 listings in the Parisian
region, and Global Freeloaders has more than
500. If you happen to be a writer, Shakespeare
and Co will allow you use of one of the cots in

The Sacre-Coeur in Montmartre

stay in a great hotel with a view of the Eiffel


Tower, like the Plaza Athenee, but instead of
splashing out on a room to get into famous
hotels in Paris, simply shell out a few euros to
have tea at the Ritz or a nice brunch.
A cheap hotel room, some with shared
bathrooms, starts at around 80 euros, many
of them in the atmospheric districts of
Marais, the Latin Quarter or Montmartre.
Parisians also offer bed and breakfast in their
homes and there is self-catering accommodation. Cheap accommodation can also be
found at the Bois de Boulogne park camp
site.
The best things about a hotel are location,
location, location. A soulful French busker on
the street directed me to the Hotel Bellevue,
at 19, rue dOrsel, a short walk away from
the stunning hills of Montmartre. It was not
only cheap (58, ask if they will give you a
complimentary breakfast), and had spacious
rooms, but enjoyed the advantage of being
superbly located on a street at the foot of the
Sacre Coeur Church in Montmartre, in a
bustling textile market near the Arab quarter,
near the nightspots of Pigalle like the Moulin
Rouge. It had its own bathroom, free wi-fi, as
well as TV and telephone in the room. Check
for hidden costs (adult channels and room
service) and remember a French breakfast
is notoriously frugal, (a couple of croissants
with jam and some orange juice, coffee and
maybe an apple). My concierge (a great flirt),
provided all kinds of invaluable information
on the nearest metro stations and the numerous cheap eateries nearby.

10

View from the basilicas top

FOOD
There were numerous cheap eating places
near my hotel run by Algerians, where one
could taste exotic dishes like couscous, and
where the cheap wine actually cost less than
water. A number of Parisian restaurants
offer this North African specialty free every
weekend, often to the sound of live music.
You have to pay for a drink though. In a city
where the price of food can give you a heart
attack, this was a great bonus.
Montmartre is not the cheapest place to
eat. But around the side of the Sacre Coeur
and down a long flight of steps is a hidden
gem, Lete en Pente Douce a little restaurant-cum-brasserie serving home-cooked
dishes for a song. My huge slab of Roquefortand-walnut quiche came with a pile of salad
and a pichet (jug of wine) for two people,
and with coffee and tips came to 16 per
person. The Chartiers on Rue du Faubourg
in Montmartre is another Parisian institution a bustling, larger-than-life restaurant,
serving reliable classics since 1896, with
orders scribbled on the paper tablecloths and
waiters shouting across the vast dining salon.
You pay 18 a head for a huge meal, with
the chandeliers, stucco and gilded mirrors
thrown in for free.
Since you will be in the worlds gastronomic capital, food will be uppermost in
your mind. But other than a couple of out-ofthis-world culinary experiences, which it is
sacrilege not to allow yourself in France, stick
to sandwiches and takeaway meals from the
delicious patisseries, charcuteries, brasseries

and boulangeries on every street corner. A


market rotisserie at Place Monge Marche, the
Sunday market, day sold me a plump, juicy
chicken for a few quid which I devoured on a
stall bench. Bakeries offer simple sandwiches
like the classic jambon fromage, which cost
only a few Euros. A great idea is to go the
picnic route in Paris. Stop by an outdoor
market or grocery store and pick up a cheap
bottle of wine, a baguette, some cheese, fresh
produce and maybe some pate or cured meat
and sausages, and enjoy a wonderful lunch in
one of Paris many great parks.
While a crepe on the touristy Left Bank
may put you back 8, a falafel sandwich in
the Arab quarter will go for a Euro or two.
Even tobacconists stock snacks and there are
plenty of cheap street food options in Paris
whether it is a Panini, a kebab roll, shawarma,
a gyro or even a McDonalds burgerthat
can make for a cheap meal on the go while
sightseeing.
If you want a taste of genuinely good, wholesome French food without making too big a
hole in your pocket, a wonderful meal in a
good homecooking restaurant may set you
back by only 10 euros. A new crop of gourmet restaurants now offer top-quality food at
a snip of the price, with a superb three-course
meal for 30, including tax and tip. In Paris
bistros on a budget, there are tasting menus
offered, where you can try a number of the
restaurants specialities for a song, like those
along the arcaded Place des Vosges in the
Marais district. The adjacent Jewish quarter
is famed for its falafel stands and delicates-

Couple with
their dog
walking home

Restaurant in Montmartre

Winding alleys
in Montmartre
Place du Tertre

sens. The 1950s junk decor in Le Denicheur


restaurant in the 2nd arrondissement gives it
a special atmosphere. Guests can even buy the
seat they are sitting on or the plate they have
just eaten off. Alchohol is expensive but there
are plenty of Paris happy hours from about
5 pm till 9 pm, advertised on chalk boards
outside, where you can find drink specials
and half priced beers. You can easily pick up
a decent bottle of wine for a few Euros in a
grocery store and get cheap carafes of house
wines at most restaurants. Pariss wine tasting
season kicks off in the springtime. The Caves
Aug, one of the citys oldest and best wine
shops, hosts its famous free wine tasting sessions in March.

The Seine

Parisians have an enduring love affair with


the Seine and I spent so many wonderful hours here, both on the river and on its
banks, simply people-watching. In the summer, join chic Parisians at the waters edge
when the Seine offers a beach holiday inside

12

Moulin Rouge in Pigalle

the city, as it dons sand and deck chairs, and


ice-cream sellers swarm to its banks. There is
no better way to while away the long summer
evenings in Paris than by walking along many
of the Seines 40 romantic bridges, watching
the boats glide beneath you. Pack a picnic and
head to the Pont des Arts (a pedestrian bridge
just beside the Louvre), and watch families,
friends and couples bunched on blankets,
enjoying candlelit meals as the sun slowly sets
behind the Eiffel tower further down the river
and lovers hang locks on the bridge, throwing
the key into the river to safeguard their love.
Paris provides a whole new perspective
from the water and familiarizing yourself
with the citywhile getting views of many of
the citys most famous and spectacular buildings, bridges and churchesis well worth the
cost of your ticket on a boat tour down the
Seine. Pont de lAlma, Pont Neuf, near the
Notre Dame, or the foot of the Eiffel Tower
are from where these glass-covered boats run
by different companies leave for a one-hour

cruise (Tickets 8 to 12). Alternatively, take


the hop-on-hop-off Batobus ferry, which
provides eight stops at key points along the
Seine. A magical view of Paris can also be had
by taking a boat ride on the Seine at night and
you can round off the experience by dining in
a riverside bistro.

Districts

Paris should be explored by area so that


you do not waste time scurrying into every
monument like the dutiful tourist and then
doubling back again the next day because you
have heard the area itself is worth a visit. Paris
grew outwards from an island, Ile de la Cite,
the historical core of Paris, and spread outwards over both sides of the sinuous Seine.
The Square du Vert Galant on its western tip
provides a great view of the Left and Right
Banks. On the Left Bank, the Latin quarter
is home mainly to students and has a lively,
bohemian atmosphere with many bistros.
On it are located the Sorbonne and dozens of
other illustrious academic and research insti-

The Seine at night

After sipping an espresso at an outdoor cafe,


explore the free Musee de la Vie Romantique,
an exquisite museum devoted to the 19th
Century, which is housed in a vine-clad old
villa. You can use your travel pass to hop
onto the funicular or the Montmartrobus, for
a ride to the top of the hill. Pigalle is a stones
throw away.

Boat ride on the Seine

tutions where the cream of France come to


study. Intellectuals have always met in SaintGermain des Pres and the Flore and Deux
Magots cafs. Trace the ruins of Paris Roman
heritage at the Arnes de Lutce in the Latin
Quarter. Dating back to 1AD, it is thought
to be the longest Roman amphitheatre ever
constructed. While the arena no longer hosts
gladiatorial fights, it does provide a space
for a competitive sport no less formidable:
ptanque!
The narrow medieval streets around the
churches of St Severin and St Julien le pauvre
are a throwback to another age and cluttered
with tourists and Greek restaurants. Walk
down the Chat-Qui-Peche, the narrowest
street in Paris, and admire the view from the
top of the Pantheon, from where you can
wander down to the cafes surrounding the
Place de la Contrescarpe.
The 7th arondissement has always been
home to the French aristocracy who built
themselves fine golden stone mansions. This
area has a lot of embassies and is home to
the Eiffel Tower and the Hotel Des Invalides,
(Napoleons resting place).
The Right Bank has a grand ambience
derived from the generations of French
monarchs who ruled from here. The most
impressive section has the Louvre and the
Palais Royal, the superb Place Vendome and
Place de la Concorde, the arcades of the Rue
de Rivoli framed by the Arc de Triomphe,
and the magnificent vistas opening out to the

14

Monuments and churches


Madeleine and ornate Opera Garnier its
huge staircase and profusion of statues is a
monument to Frances former glory.
The lively Marais district is superb for a
Sunday stroll. Follow the trail of Louis XIV,
hit the Jewish quarter or simply ogle the superb selection of vintage shops. Old Baroque
and Renaissance houses still testify to the
pomp and ceremony of the high aristocracy
who lived here in the 16th and 17th century,
alongside writers such as Balzac. At the heart
of le Marais is the Place des Vosges, the citys
first planned square, with rose-pink facades
and linden trees.
St-Germain-de-Pres epitomises Paris cafe society with an aura of refined intellectualism,
where one could once rub shoulders with the
cream of the literary world.
Positioned on a high hill north of the city
centre, Montmartre offers a stunning view
of Paris. It seems like a little village frozen
in time, with its narrow, cobbled streets. The
dome of the Sacre Coeur looms above the
streets full of quaint bistros, brasseries and
apartments, and a painters colony of artists
from all over the world. The biggest draw
of Montmartre is the Place du Tertre, the
principal square, crowded with caricaturists
and portrait painters who will draw you for
a price a great souvenir to take back home,
along with many beautiful paintings of Paris
on sale here. Here you can feel the spirit
of bohemian Paris in its alleyways and old
ivy-clad houses, with gardens full of flowers.

The Eiffel Tower stands on the left bank


of the Seine, (South bank), in a garden,
the Champs de Mars. What more can one
say about the monument which was once
dismissed as a trite tourist gimmick and
almost dismantled but is now Paris most
enduring symbol? It is cheaper to climb (8)
than see by lift, but you are allowed on foot
only to the first and second level (a total of
600 steps). Taking the lift to the third level at
the peak of the Tower can squeeze the budget
at 14 but offers stunning views. Carry a
jacket because the wind can cut like a knife
at the top. A wonderful bar in the tower, Bar
a Champagne, and the Jules Verne restaurant
on the second level are expensive, but will
set the final seal on your love for the hopelessly romantic, or you can simply opt for the
buffet on the first and second level, go for a
coffee in the lounge or dine in 58Tour Eiffel,
the brasserie on the first level. You can book
tickets in advance on the official website but
the lift will not go to the top if the weather
is bad.
Luckily, the views are just as stunning
from the ground. Le Champ de Mars has
lawns and flowerbeds manicured with military precision. Whenever the sun shines, the
greens around the Eiffel Tower attract sunbathers and picnickers. Bring a blanket, wine
and the best brie you can find to feast right
beside the Eiffel Tower, and wait till dusk
for the biggest light show in town, as 20,000
bulbs sparkle to life every hour to illuminate
the great tower. A great view of the Tower

Lovers on the riverbank

can also be had from the Trocadero Esplanade from the opposite bank of the Seine,
where skateboarders show off their skills at
the Place Trocadero.
The Arc de Triomphe on the Champ Elysee was commissioned by Napoleon as homage to his victories. At the base, at the Tomb
of the Unknown Soldier, an eternal flame
remembers those who died in the two world
wars. It will cost you to climb up to the arch
and admire the 12 avenues planned by Baron
Haussmann in 1852 that radiate out from the
arc, down the famous Champs-Elysees on
one side and to the Grande Arche, a massive
modern arch of glass, granite and marble on
the other, or you can simply dawdle on the
Champs Elysee and people-watch instead.
Canny cafes here will charge you double for a
coffee if you choose to have it sitting outside
rather than in, so carry it away and have it on
a sidewalk bench.
Pre-Lachaise is the celebrity cemetery - it
has almost anyone talented and dead that
you care to mention. It is the most visited
cemetery in the world where admirers come
to pay homage to such worthies as Oscar
Wilde with lipstick kisses and Jim Morrison
with cigarettes and alchohol, as well as illustrious Frenchmen such as Balzac, Chopin
and Proust. The tree-lined avenues and
calling crows make Pre Lachaise the most
atmospheric walk in Paris. Theres also the
Montmartre and the Montparnasse cemeteries, with their own famous graves, of JeanPaul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Samuel
Beckett, perfect for a serene stroll.
The towers inside may cost you, but
entering a French church is free. Towering
over Montmartre and sparkling like a snowcapped mountain is the great, white basilica
of Sacre Coeur, the famous mock RomanoByzantine church which sits on one of the
highest points in Paris. The palatial, marble
monument is lavishly decorated with tower-

Dinner cruise on the Seine

ing stained-glass windows and gold mosaics,


shrines and statues glittering in the candlelight. Listen to the peal of one of the worlds
heaviest bells or the nuns singing a beautiful
Ave Maria. Walk up the endless, very steep
steps to the church entrance and be rewarded
with stunning views. You must pay a small
fee to go into the crypt and to climb the spiral
staircase to the gallery high up in the shining
white dome, but the view from the churchs
terrace is truly spectacular - a 180-degree
panorama taking in the Eiffel Tower, Notre
Dame and the gilded dome of Les Invalides.
Then try to catch your breath again on the
steps leading down from the Sacr Couer on
the Butte de Montmartre and enjoy the amazing views over the sloping rooftops of Paris.
After the sun sets, you will be in the best place
to see why Paris is called the City of Light,
as all of the main attractions light up and the
boulevards below become long streams of
shimmering light. Street performers often assemble at the bottom of the steps to entertain
picnickers and passers-by. Be firm with the
scam artists trying to sell you cheap souvenirs
and watch out for pickpockets.
Notre Dame Cathedral is the Ile de la Cites
unforgettable landmark. A masterpiece of
Gothic art, it is a heart-stopping sight at night
when lit up. Here you can catch a free Sunday
organ recital, free English-language tours
or Sunday choir rehearsals. It took over two
hundred years to build. A 400-step staircase
winds up to one of the bell towers, leading to
a gallery adorned with gargoyles. Later, stroll
along the Seine nearby for an alternate view
of its spiky apse and naturalist sculptures.
Another famous church in the Ile-de-la-Cite
is the Sainte-Chapelle, within the gates of the
Palais de Justice. The upper chapel is a blaze
of colour from the stained-glass windows.

Museums

The first Sunday of every month, museums


around Paris open for free. Sidle through the

Picnic on the Seine

Louvres sculpture gallery and squint at the


Mona Lisa, admire the Thinker in the lovely
gardens of the Rodin Museum or exhaust
yourself in the Muse dOrsay. The Louvre,
one of the worlds grandest museums, is free
as well on Friday evenings if youre under
25 and cheaper after 3 pm on Monday and
Wednesday to Saturday. The lines though, are
long. Teachers and students get discounts.
Also free on the first Sunday are the
Centre Pompidou, a dramatic building with
its primary colours and exposed pipes, as well
as the Muse du Quai Branly, surrounded by
trees on the banks of the Seine, and housed in
an extraordinary building by Jean Nouvel. It
is a vast showcase for non-European cultures,
dedicated to the ethnic art of Africa, Oceania,
Asia and the Americas. Palais de Chaillot at
Place du Trocadero is an immense pseudoclassical building with giant sculptures of
Apollo by Henri Bouchard.
Some of Paris unusual museums are always freesuch as the Modern Art Museum,
Fine Arts Museum, the Fragonard Perfume
Museum or the Paris Fashion Museum. Also
free is the Musee Carnavalet near the Place
de la Vosges, one of the grandest mansions
in Paris where you can find macabre attractions like the prison room where King Louis
XVI and his wife, Marie Antoinette were held
before their execution, and the items they last
used. The Musee Cognacq-Jay, on Rue Elzevir
near the Marais district, founded by a wealthy
tycoon, is devoted to 18th Century luxury, is
totally free, and tucked away amid canvases
by Rembrandt and Fragonard are chased
snuffboxes and cosmetic curios once used by
the aristocats.
A city that prides itself in its rich cultural
heritage, Paris has made it a priority to ensure
its cultural institutions are accessible to everyone. In May, you will find the Nuit de Musees
(Museum Night), opening the doors of the
museums in the city for free after sunset. In

15

Cyclists on a guided tour

Les Jardin des Tuileries


Jardin de Luxembourg

Champs de Mars

September, France celebrates its cultural


heritage with Les Journees du Patrimoine,
which opens all of the citys museums, galleries, monuments and other buildings for free.
Nuit Blanche in Paris takes place during the
first weekend in October and is an all-night
free celebration that includes free concerts
and shows, as well as many huge art installations, free admission into museums, swimming pools, monuments, galleries and other
public buildings, along with being one hell
of a great party. It also offers fantastic birds
eye views from 15 Paris buildings normally
closed to the public, for free.
If you miss all of these events, you can
also check out discount cards like the Paris
Museum Pass (cheaper if bought for five
days), if you intend to visit a lot of museums
and monuments, as it also allows you to hop
queues. Many otherwise paying museums
have free exhibits and free permanent collections. Most museums let you go in and out
so step outside for lunch. And check out the
computers, where you can view a museums
entire collection for free.

PARKS AND GARDENS

The best thing about the citys magnificent


gardens is theyre all free. Paris is glorious in
the summer, and the parks do full justice to
its reputation as the city of amour. The Bois
de Boulogne, a park through which the river
Seine winds, is a must-see. Here you can
see lovers lying entwined on the river bank,
barge people having a simple lunch on their
boat, demi mondes walking their fashionably coiffed poodles, or vagrants peacefully

16

Paris, the city of amour

taking a snooze. Covering 865 hectares


and landscaped in the 1860s, with artificial
grottoes and waterfalls, it was the aristocrats
favourite promenade.
Parisians are magnetically drawn to the
citys parks, often with their dogs in tow. If
you want to make friends with the French,
make sure you stroll through as many parks
and gardens as you can, among them the
sumptuous Jardin de Luxembourg on the
left bank in St Germaine, where families
spend the entire day lazing around in the
warm sunshine, in the riot of colours among
chestnut trees and beautifully manicured
flower beds, and its serene lakes. In summer,
it hosts free concerts and puppet shows for
the kids.
Give your Paris trip a regal feel by
sweeping through the historic Jardin des
Tuileries between the Louvre and Place
de la Concorde. Here you can retread the
dainty footsteps of Marie-Antoinette and see
where Napolon built his triumphal arch.
The gravelled alleyways of these gardens
have been a chic promenade ever since they
opened to the public in the 16th century;
and the popular mood persists with the
funfair that sets up along the rue de Rivoli
in the summer. The Place de La Concorde
with its numerous lamps, statues and the
huge obelisk Napoleon brought from Luxor
in Egypt is best viewed from the Tuileries,
though there is an admission charge. Jardin
du Palais Royal, as its name suggests, are
landscaped gardens set beside a palace, its
famous forecourt screened with columns,

Puces Saint-Ouen
Locks hanging on the Pont
Des Arts on the Seine
Open-top bus tour

folies serve as glorious giant climbing frames,


as well as a first-aid post.

MARKETS

Street artist

opposite the north wing of the Louvre. Parc


des Buttes-Chaumont is Paris steepest park,
but with abundant birdlife, rocky reliefs and
even a waterfall masterminded by landscaping genius Baron Haussmann, its easy to forget youre in Frances hectic capital city. The
Promenade Plante, high above the rooftops
of Paris, is a railroad track with a floral makeover, and this elevated walkway offers superb
views and allows you to stroll through lush
green archways high above the city crowds
and have a private picnic in absolute peace.
It is the longest park in Paris; an old viaduct
that stretches 4.5 km from the Bastille right
out to the Bois de Vincennes, the largest park
in Paris. The Bois de Vincennes was created,
like the Bois de Boulogne in the west, when
a former royal hunting forest was landscaped
by Alphand for Baron Haussmann. There are
boating lakes, a Buddhist temple, a racetrack,
restaurants, a baseball field and more.
Jardin des Plantes, the Paris botanical
garden which contains more than 10,000
species and includes tropical greenhouses and
rose, winter and Alpine gardens is an enchanting place. Begun by Louis XIIIs doctor
as the royal medicinal plant garden in 1626,
its Alpine Garden costs 1 on weekends.
Le Jardin des Serres dAuteuil has romantic

glasshouses which were opened in 1895 to


cultivate plants for Paris parks and public
spaces. It has seasonal orchids and begonias
and the steamy tropical pavilion has palms,
birds and Japanese ornamental plants.
The most colourful of the capitals many
parks, Montsouris was laid out for Baron
Haussmann by Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand. It includes a series of sweeping, gently
sloping lawns, an artificial lake and cascades.
Parc Andr Citron is a fun, postmodern version of a French formal garden, designed by
Gilles Clment and Alain Prvost. It comprises glasshouses, computerised fountains,
waterfalls, a wilderness and themed gardens
featuring different coloured plants.
In the summer months, you can enjoy picnics
in some of the bigger parks while taking in a
free show or concert. March among Frances
greats in Parc Monceau, which has statues of
luminaries like Chopin and Guy de Maupassant and was a favourite painting spot for
Monet. A temporary giant screen is assembled at Parc de la Villette in the northeast
of Paris that shows old films to anyone who
cares to watch. Dotted with red pavilions, or
folies, the park was designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi and is a postmodern
feast (with guided tours in the summer). The

Visiting local markets is considered tres chic


these days and Paris is a great place for flea
markets and brocantes. Best of all, entry is
absolutely free. You can go around sampling
the various wares on offer without spending
a penny, and end up being too full to have
lunch! The antique and flea market at the
Puces Saint-Ouen has tiny streets and huge
stalls where you can admire a strange treasure
trove of bearskin rugs, antique tapestries and
brass diving bells. This decadently eccentric
market, the largest in Paris sprawling over
3.5 hectares, has something for every pocket,
from second-hand jeans to pots and pans, toilet seats, old records, keys, nails, and leather
jackets.
In the March dAligre, one of the citys
most famous markets in the 12th arrondissement, you can find coffee cups, grandads
trench coats, grandmas lace blouses and
jewellery, and can also pick up supplies of
fresh fruit, delicious pats, and still-warm
bread from the countless bakeries in the area.
Mountains of cheese, artisan butchers and a
field of flower stalls can send you into sensory
overload after wandering through a few aisles.
The cobblestoned market street on rue
Mouffetard is crammed with patisseries,
fromageries and gourmet sweet shops. On
a Saturday it closes off to form a huge food
market, where you find an old lady negotiating the price of cheese while a rotisserie man
stands in front of spinning and dripping
chickens, belly-shaking as he laughs with the
regular customers, accompanied by the hum

17

The Louvre Museum

of bartering foodies and cat-calling vendors.


Stop for a discreet glass of Bordeaux and get
your hands floury on some crusty baguette
and treat yourself with an ice-cream shaped
like a rose from Gelati dAlberto at 45 rue
Mouffetard. The Back Sunday market in the
Bastille is a feast for the senses: tasty cheeses,
a fragrant bouillabaisse in a giant, freestanding pan, homemade pate de foie gras, set
against a sea of brightly coloured flower
stall and chickens clucking. Africans, Arabs,
Chinese, young and old tasted, haggle and
shout as a trader offers you his last grapes on
the cheap.

Shopping

While Paris is a huge fashion capital and full


of all the big designer names, you can shop
in Paris without maxing out your credit card.
Head over to the area near the Opera to hit
up the big chain stores for bargains and look
for sales in big department stores like the
Printemps, (winter sale is at the end of January and the summer one in late June). There
are also designer depots scattered around
Paris, high-end consignment shops managed
by ladies who know a lot about fashion and
who offer designer pieces at great prices. Go
window shopping along the Avenue Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg St-Honor and
nearby side streets, to get a taste of Chanel
or Herms. And if youre a fashion fan, take
in Frances finest fashions at the free show at
the Galeries Lafayette department store every
Friday. Reserve by email.
Around the Saint Supplice metro station are many affordable boutiques. You will
also find some affordable shops in the Latin
Quarter. The boulevard St Michel on the left

bank of the Seine has numerous cheap clothes


and shoe shops, and if youd rather be outdoors, linger among the Bouquinistes the
bookstalls along the Left Bank where you can
browse through first editions, second-hand
books and antiques, just as others have done
for centuries. South and east of the Musee
dOrsay is prime shopping territory, with a
lot of interesting antique shops, and further
on, there are footwear, food and furnishing
shops. Chinatown has thousands of cheap
clothing stores and you can check out the
secondhand stores in the Jewish Quarter.

Entertainment

Take advantage of the dozens of free concert


venues in Paris. The National Conservatory of
Music produces hundreds of student recitals
each year; the Saturday and Sunday free concerts at the St. Merry Church and the American Church of Paris; or at Radio Frances 180
or so free concerts every year where you get a
free ticket half an hour before the show. Like
jazz? 7 Lezards in the Marais provides free
music with no cover charge. Ftes de la Musique on June 21, with free concerts all over
Paris and across France, is a riotous festival
that bridges the gap from rock to jazz to pop,
with everything in between. Many exhibitions
and festivals in Paris also have free food and
attractions. Gazing at street artists or visiting
the hundreds of art galleries that dot the city
is also free of charge.
In a hidden courtyard (reminiscent of
Swiss chalets) off rue de Charonne, the
100-seater La Loge offers performances that
merge theatre, dance and music. Every summer, the Summer of Loge festival invites
eight theatre companies for performances,

followed by post-show festivities that have


previously included pyjama parties and
concerts. The Thtre du Lucernaire is a
melting pot of theatre, cinema and art and is
bedecked with cafe hangouts. It has a number
of cost-free attractions, including an everchanging photography exhibition.

Nightlife

There are few sights as romantic and thrilling


as Paris by night even when its pouring
rain. When its lit up, the Eiffel Tower is a
magnificent sight. So is the Arc de Triomphe.
At night, the huge Champs Elysee avenue,
the size of a football field, is a heart-stopping
sight, lit up and throbbing with life and the
buzz of traffic. The motto here is: see and
be seen. Nightclubbers surge around the
entrance of the `Queen disco, others make
themselves up in the late-opening Sephora
perfumery or buy CDs at the Mega Store music shop, open until lam. Love to move? The
Showcase nightclub, in the Port des Champslyses, set beneath the stately Pont Alexandre III, is the only club youll ever enter
thats literally nestled under a bridge. You can
gawk at the stylish, BCBG (yuppie) crowd,
usually with champagne bottles at close hand,
dancing to DJs and live bands while taking in
iconic views of the Seine. Alternatively, dance
the night away under the stars in Batofar,
sitting on a converted barge floating on the
Seine. It is not free but is always crowded as
the lightship sways every evening till the early
hours to beats of underground hip hop, rock,
electro, techno, and dubstep. When you need
to rest your feet, check out the fantastic view
from the clubs bridge. They all have entry
charges.

View of the Eiffel Tower at night from the Trocadero Gardens

Panorama of the Notre Dame near the Seine

Better still, dance the night away for free


at Quai Saint-Bernard all summer long, with
an open-air dance party when the weather
permits. Or try the Caveau de la Huchette
jazz club in the Latin Quarter which has free
dancing, starting at 2 am on weekends.
In dissolute Pigalle near Montmartre,
famous for its red light district, youll find
swanky nightclubs, seedy bars and the Moulin Rouge, which is always crowded. Tourists
peer shamefacedly into the neon-lit doors
advertising peep shows in the dim alleyways.
But there are also exciting music bars and
clubs (very difficult to gain admission to)
and the old cabarets such as Folies Pigalle
and Erotikas have spruced themselves up to
offer more sophisticated forms of depravity.
Entry is free to Chez Moune in the rue JeanBaptiste in Pigalle. It features low ceilings
and mirrored-tiled walls, and caters to the
Parisian branch (hipster) crowd enjoying
electro-rock.

Information

You can buy the Navigo Decouverte pass at


any of the metro or train stations, though a
small passport photo is needed. The weekly
pass is valid in relevant zones from Monday
to Sunday but since you may be arriving before a Monday, you must check the purchase
date coincides with your itinerary to get full
value. If you buy it on a Friday, it will be
valid only for three days unless you specify
you want it from next Monday. It is cheaper
(33 for the main zones including airport
and 38 for all zones including Versailles,
Fontainbleau and Disneyland) than the Paris
Visite tourist pass, though the latter provides
discounts and offers.

Paris Visite pass is valid on the metro,


the airport, buses and night bus, Optile bus
system, the express RER trains, suburban
trains, and even the tramway. It is sufficient
to buy a pass for zones 1-3, (30 for five days
for adults, 15 for children), which covers the
main city areas, unless your accommodation
is in the suburbs. It also provides discounts
at certain Paris attractions. It can be bought
at the airport, tourism offices, metro stations,
newsstands and tobacco shops and even online, and is valid from the day it is first used.
The Paris Pass is an all-inclusive two-day
pass for 105 for adults (children and teen
passes are much cheaper) which allows you
free access to 55 museums and monuments,
free unlimited travel on the metro, buses and
RER trains in central Paris, free Paris Bus
Tour, and free entry to attractions such as a
Seine River Cruise, Grevin Wax Museum,
Palace of Versailles, Tour Montparnasse and
even a Chateau wine tasting! It provides a
detailed guide to Paris sights and allows you
to skip lines at popular attractions. Discounts are given on shops and restaurants.
But it does add up to much more than if you
bought a travel and museum pass separately,
and there is only so much you can do in two
days.
Though you most probably would not
need it, it would be wise if you took out
health insurance cover before leaving.
PARISCOPE magazine, available cheaply at
every kiosk, contains comprehensive listings
of theatres, exhibitions, concerts and cinemas
as well as addresses of restaurants, bars and
nightclubs.
The Tourist Office at 127 Champs Elysee,

with smaller branches at the main train stations (Tel. 00331149 52 5154), can provide
information on hotels to suit all pockets and
has a hotel, train and theatre reservation
service.
Most public telephones are card-operated.
Cards are available at tobacconists and post
offices. Cafes have coin-operated phones.
Emergency numbers for police (17), medical aid (18), telephone enquiry (12) and SOS
Help (47238080) are not free.

OUTSIDE PARIS

If you can afford to get out of Paris, do not


miss going to the Chateau de Versailles and
Chateau de Fontainbleau, where history has
stood still. As a complete contrast, there is
Disneyland, which, contrary to expectations,
is a huge hit with the French.
Do your research online, and with Twitter and tried and tested guidebooks. The
problem with Paris is a problem of plenty
- Gothic churches, mediaeval prisons, royal
palaces, huge squares and fountains, fantastic
art collections and museums and magnificent monuments way too much take in at
one go. But dont miss Pariss little secrets
behind the heavy street doors are often courtyards or gardens, the Renaissance refinement
of the Louvre hides a medieval keep, behind
the formal colonnades of the Palais Royal is a
quiet park and Haussmanns grand boulevards give way to a network of narrow streets
and passageways.
Finally, when you leave, also offer a toast to
the Parisian - that delectable breed, who has
turned living into such a civilised art and
whose passion, chic and intelligence are visible wherever you look in the city.

Alma Bridge and the eternal flame

20

21

Bihars ancient glory

On the banks of the Ganga near Bhagalpur, lie the ruins of a once great
Buddhist university, Vikramshila Mahavihara, says Sidharth Mishra

Vikramshila Setu

22

n a relatively remote area, 38km east of


Bhagalpur in Bihar, on the banks of the
Uttarayani (northward flowing) Ganga,
lie the ruins of a once glorious Buddhist
university, Vikramshila Mahavihara. Located
at the archaeological site in Antichak village,
it bears witness to the grandeur of the once
powerful Pala dynasty of Bengal in the
medieval period. The site covers an extensive
area over 4 sq kms, dotted with carved
pillars, votive stupas and mounds with ruins,
and gives a hint of Bihars former status,
the socio-religious life of the age and the
superior craftsmanship in brick, stone and
earth in the medieval age. Close by are the
Rajmahal Hills and Bateshwar Sthan (Pathar
Ghat), famous for their Jurassic Age rocks
and natural fossils.
With the arrival of Arabs and Turks
in western and northern India in the 8th
century, large numbers of Buddhist monks
moved eastwards. Buddhist Viharas in
Bengal and Bihar, comprising the ancient
kingdom of Magadha, grew from the 5th

century AD to the end of the 12th century


during the Gupta and Pala dynasties. In
fact, Bihar derives its name from the word
vihara or university, probably due to the
abundance of Buddhist monasteries in that
area. Other than being a Centre for study of
theology, Sanskrit and Prakrit, Vikramshila
was a great centre of Tibetan studies with a
large number of scholars visiting from the
Himalayan country.
Five great Mahaviharas stood out
Vikramshila, the premier university of
the era; Nalanda, past its prime but still
illustrious, Somapura, Odantapura, and
Jaggadala. The five monasteries formed
a network and it was common for great
scholars to move easily from position to
position among them. The Universitys glory
days is known to us mainly through Tibetan
sources, such as the eminent Tibetan monk
historian, Lama Taranath, who has given us
a very elaborate description of this forgotten
University. Buddhist scholars discovered
his accounts of Vikramshila in Geschichte

Seats for the monks in Vikramshila

Tourists in Vikramshila

Des Buddhismus, the German translation


of his work. Vikramsila was the centre of
Tantrayana or Vajrayana, distinguished
by the use of tantras -- a combination of
religion, philosophy, science, mysticism,
magic and yoga, which it allowed its
followers to disregard social laws. It was
established in the 8th century in response
to a supposed decline in the quality of
scholarship at Nalanda, by King Dharampala

24

of Bengal (783 to 820 AD), the devout Pala


king who called himself Paramasaugata
(chief worshipper of the Buddha),and was
a great patron of Mahayana Buddhism. He
is the best known of the Pala rulers who
reigned over large parts of northern India
in early medieval times and promoted the
conservation and propagation of Buddhist
education. Buddhism reached the pinnacle
of its influence under the Palas, who were

the last important patrons of Buddhism in


the subcontinent. Lama Taranath refers to
the regular allowances donated by the Pala
rulers for maintenance of the Mahavihar
and mentions that Vikramshilas Acharyas
also controlled all the affairs of Nalanda,
the more famous seat of Buddhist learning.
He describes how Dharampala generously
endowed Vikramshila with his magnificent
grants, fixing allowances for the maintenance
of priests and students. For the support of
resident pupils, there were free board hostels.
In addition, there were establishments for
temporary residents. The University building
made provisions for the maintenance of 108
residential professors or monks and also
for a number of non-residential professors,
pilgrims and other staff, and attracted
scholars from neighbouring countries. A big
monastery was constructed in the University
grounds, and it was protected with strong
walls. The affairs of the university were
entrusted by King Dharampala to one very
eminent and learned scholar or Mahapaita
who was also highly religious.
By the 11th century, when King
Rampala was ruling, the monastery was
the worlds largest Buddhist University,
housing around 160 upadhyas or teachers
and 1000 students or bhikus, along with
50 other institutions, providing room for
the Acharyas and superintendents and the
108 paita or scholars. In the centre there
was a large Buddhist temple, surrounded
by 108 smaller temples. A life-size copy of
the Mahabodhi tree was enshrined in the
temple. Each of these temples and stupas was
under the charge of a pandit, who formed
the faculty at the Mahavihar. The study of
Guhyasamaja Tantra was carried out in 53 of
those temples.
Eminent teacher-scholars included
Shaakyasiribhadra, Vagiswarkirti, Naropant,
Buddhajanapad, Abhyankargupta, Santipa,
Nagarjuna, Ratnavajra, Acharya Jetari, Ratna
Kirti, Ratnavajra, Jnanasrimitra and Naropa
and the Mahacharya, Srijan Dipankar
Atish. Mahacharya Atish Dipankara and
Abhyankargupta taught both at Nalanda and
Vikramshila. As described by Taranath, the
monasteries of the university were guarded

Vikramshila
ruins

Vikramshila, in the village of Antichak

Pillars from Vikramshila

Traces of the monastery


The ruins being restored

Excavations at Vikramshila

26

by important scholars who taught students


from various East Asian countries. Tibetans
flocked to Vikramshila in spite of the hazards
of mountain travel. Each student aspiring
to take admission in the university had to
pass through a rigorous examination at the
universitys six main gates, guarded by dwarpandits, who were scholars of distinction.
Persons arriving late after closing of the gates
had to take shelter in a dharmashala outside.
Different pandits were specialized in various
branches of knowledge. Besides, the teachers
and students were also engaged in copying
and translating the manuscripts. There was
a big library for the students. The teaching
was both professorial and tutorial. Every
student was required to choose a monk
from the order as his Acharya, between
whom a cordial father-son relationship
was maintained. Subjects like philosophy,
grammar, theology, metaphysics, Indian
logic etc. were taught here, but the most
important branch of learning was tantrism.
On the pattern of the Senate or Academic
council of modern universities, it was
managed by a board of eminent professors
presided over by the High Priest. Its
main function was to supervise and issue
instructions to the teachers. It granted
the diploma of Pandit to all distinguished
alumni, the diploma being conferred by
the reigning king in an annual convocation
programme. The board at Vikramshila also
governed the affairs of Nalanda University.
Chinese monk-traveller Hiuen Tsang
described life in the vihara thus, The
priests, to the number of several thousands,
are men of the highest ability and talent.
There are many hundreds whose fame has
rapidly spread through distant regions.
Their conduct is pure and unblamable. The
rules of this convent are severe and all the
priests are bound to observe them. A day
is not sufficient for asking and answering

profound questions. From morning till night


they engage in discussions, the old and the
young mutually help one another. Those who
cannot discuss questions out of the Tripitak
are little esteemed, and are obliged to hide
themselves for shame.
If men of other quarters desire to enter
and take part in the discussions, the keeper
of the gate proposes some hard questions;
many are unable to answers and retire (go
back home). One must have studied deeply
both old and new manuscripts before getting
admission. Those students, therefore, who
come here as a stranger, have to show their
ability through hard discussion. Those who
fail compared with those who succeed are 7
or 8 out of 10 (only 2-3 students out of 10 are
passed).
The university started with 200 monks
and was famous for its disciplined life, high
standards of morality, and administrative
excellence. Gradually, the number of
students expanded and efforts were made
to accommodate a congregation as large
as 8000. This Bodhi university became
a famed centre of Vajrayana or Tantric
Buddhism, the third vehicle of the religion
founded by the Indian Mahasiddhas, who
subscribed to Buddhist tantric literature.
From here Vajrayana traveled to Tibet and
parts of Indo-China. It employed famous
Tantric preceptors, like Buddhajnapda,
followed by Dpakarabhadra and Jayabadhra.
According to Taranatha, at Vikramasilas
peak, which was during the reign of King
Canaka, the Tibetan King heard of Tibetan
monks coming in heavy numbers and
funded a separate hostel for their residence.
Vikramshila produced eminent scholars
who were often invited by foreign countries
to spread Buddhist learning, culture and
religion. The most distinguished among the
abbots was Atish Dipankara, the renowned
pandita, who was famed the world over for

Prayers being offered in the stupa

Statues found in Vikramshila

his knowledge of Buddhist texts and was a


founder of the Sarma traditions of Tibetan
Buddhism. Atish was a great reformer of
Tibetan Lamaism. Author of more than 200
books, Atisa twice refused to go to Tibet but
he consented on the third invitation from
the Tibetan king and left for Tibet in 1042
with his disciples. He also stayed in Nepal
for some time. His portrait not only adorned
the university entrance but he was widely
known in Ceylon, Sumatra and Tibet, where
he was revered as an incarnation of Buddha.
Under his influence Buddhism became the
state religion of Tibet. He died in Mongolia.
A thousand years later there are no
signs of the religion being practised in
the area and why it was eclipsed in the
land of its origin, after it was adopted by a
variety of people, from monarch Ashoka,
to the courtesan Amrapali and the robber

28

Angulimal, has remained a mystery. One


of the reasons forwarded by scholars is the
degeneration of the reformist religion into
a ritualistic cult, the Vajrayana (the Vehicle
of Thunderbolt) cult in eastern India.
Artefacts excavated at Vikramshila give an
insight into the large scale practice of occult
rites on campus. Buddhas religion by the
10th century had gradually lost its original
shape. High ideals of salvation and universal
love for mankind had yielded to gross
superstitions, esoteric and immoral practices
and imbibing the worst of tantrism. The cult
came to be stigmatised as libidinous phallic
necromancy and people thought it was the
easiest means of attaining emancipation.
Various Buddhist deities emerged parallel
to the Brahmanical pantheon. Hindus also
became attracted to the cult. The resulting
struggle between Buddhists and non-

Buddhists proved a death knell for the


university as well as the religious order. Use
of Buddhist deities like Mahakala and Tara
as substitutes for bricks in raising the walls
of the university was seen as scandalous.
Vajrayana permitted use of wine, meat
and women by men leading a religious
life. In order to preserve its secret nature,
only a master could initiate a student into
the rites and Mantras, supposed to possess
great magical powers. Panchmakara - wine,
women, fish, flesh and coition - were
considered a must for Nirvana. Vajrayana
started the worship of Tara (or Saviouress),
spouses of male Boddhisattvas. Among the
magical chants which Vajrayana popularised
was the Tibetan prayer, Om mani padme
hum (Behold, the Jewel is in the Lotus), the
symbolic representation of divine coitus.
Worship of several gods of the Buddhist
and Hindu pantheon began. Among
them, Mahakal, the prototype of Shiva,
is of great significance. He is a ferocious
god worshipped in tantric rites for the
destruction of enemies. He is a terrible spirit
who eats a sinner raw and drinks his blood.
Why did Vajrayana sect of the East absorb
the cult of necromancy? A major reason
could be the challenge from local religion.
The Anga (Bhagalpur) and neighbouring
Bang regions were a hotbed of Vammargis
(Occult practitioners) and the Shakti cult,
with Mother as the presiding deity. The
Shakti cult evolved with the belief that male
could be activated only in unison with
the female. The gods thus acquired wives:
Shiv-Parvati, Vishnu-Lakshmi and BrahmaSaraswati. Buddhism presented its counter
in Taras, companions to Bodhisattvas. Thus
rose Buddhist nunneries. The nuns wore
yellow robes and shaved the heads like their
male counterparts. Their discipline was
similar to their male counterparts but sexual
activity was not considered a breach of vows.
The religious festival of Vish-hari Puja,
the worship of the Snake Queen or Manasa
Devi, said to be a daughter of Lord Shiva
and the Queen of Snakes, also traces its roots
back hundreds of years to this region, and is
still celebrated every year, with thousands of
believers and snake charmers offering milk

Nalanda University

to the Nag (the Snake King) and Nageen.


Atish Dipankara was well-versed in
Tantricism but was against sensuous orgies
or debauchery. Following Atisas departure,
corrupt occult practices increased in the
Mahavihara, which was ensconced between
the river and the forests of Santhal Parganas.
Vikramsilas downfall gained momentum
because of tantrics, who indulged in orgies
and debauchery. Women were freely initiated
into tantric rituals and strange practices
like the worship of female body parts was
allowed in the university, which was no
longer confined to scholars but attracted funseeking princes, nobles and businessmen.
Tibetan chroniclers describe tantric acharyas
in Vikramsila who had over 500 consorts
and produced strange elixirs. Excavations
have revealed underground cellars that were
used for esoteric practices. Moreover, the
university had become a rich storehouse
for gold brought in by the Tibetans, which
sparked off trouble. The struggle between
Buddhist and non-Buddhist tantrics became
sharper day by day. Religious rivalry led to
a state of degeneration. Magic, necromancy,
superstition and blind faith proved
fundamental to the fall from a high pedestal.

30

Troops later converted the monastery


into a mini-fortress and finally the fate of
Vikramsila was sealed forever by the Turks,
who defeated the Palas and indulged in
wanton destruction. Vajrayana lost its main
patron and could no longer resist the dictates
of puritanical Hindu and Islamic beliefs,
finding its last refuge in isolated monasteries
in the Himalayas. Vikramshila prospered for
about four centuries before it was destroyed
by Bakhtiyar Khilji during fighting with the
Sena dynasty, along with the other major
centres of Buddhism in India, in 1200 AD.
It remained buried and forgotten until
Francis Buchanan, in the accounts of his
tour of Bhagalpur around 1810 and 1811,
referred to the presence of a few small
mounds around Pather-Ghatta which he
assumed were the remains of a few fortresses.
C.F.A.W. Oldham, while editing Buchanans
diary, for the first time suggested that these
mounds might belong to the Vikaramshila
University. Serious excavations at Antichak
were first started in 1960 by Prof. B.P.
Sinha and gradually spread over 125 acres,
exposing a huge monastic complex. The
entire complex is of a single cultural site with
three sub-phases, now under the the ASI.

The monastery, or residence for the


Buddhist monks, is a huge square structure,
each side measuring 330 metres having
a series of 208 monastic cells, 52 on each
of the four sides, opening into a common
verandah. Arched underground chambers
beneath some of the cells have also been
noticed, which were probably meant for
confined meditation by the monks. The outer
wall of the temple had six gates while the
main temple was guarded by two statues,
that of Nagarjuna and another of Atisa
Dipankara.
Excavations have revealed a huge doubleterraced cruciform stupa in its centre, built
for worship, a library building and cluster
of votive stupas. To the north of monastery
a number of scattered structures, including
a Tibetan and a Hindu temple, have been
found. The entire spread is over an area
of more than one hundred acres. In the
four chambers of the stupa were placed
colossal stucco images of seated Buddha and
Boddhisatvas, of which three were found
in situ but the one on the north side was
possibly replaced by a stone image after the
clay image was damaged.
All the stucco images are unfortunately

Vikramshila is maintained by the ASI

Sewage system in Vikramshila

broken above the waist. The images are


placed over a brick pedestal having traces
of painting in red and black pigments.
The walls and floors of the chamber and
antechamber were plastered with lime. Both
the terraces are decorated with splendid
images carved on its walls, with mouldings
and terracotta plaques which testify to the
excellence of the art flourishing in the Pala
period, which spread to Java, Sumatra,
Cambodia, China, Nepal and Tibet.
The library was air-conditioned by cooled
water from the adjoining reservoir through
a range of vents in the wall. The system
was perhaps meant for preserving delicate
manuscripts. The Vikramshila Museum at
the entrance of the site, maintained by the
Archaeological Survey of India, displays a
large number of antiquities of terracotta,
stone, iron, copper, gold, silver, bronze,
ivory, bone and shell found in the course of
the excavations. They include monuments,
images, utensils, coins, inscribed seals
,weapons, jewellery, animal and human
paintings. Vikramshila artefacts and images
may be classified into three pantheons: early
Mahayana, Vajrayana or Tantra (occult)
Mahayana and Hindu.
The most notable are the paintings of
elephants, boar, panther and lion, monkeys,
horses, deer, wolves, birds and hunting
scenes. The human representations are
of ascetics, yogis, preachers, drummers,

32

warriors, archers and snake charmers.


A large number of stone sculptures and
terracotta plaques have been found of
Buddha, Bodhisattvas, Maitreya, Manjusri,
Marichi, Mahakala, Tara, Jambhala,
Aparajita, Sadakshari Avalokiteshwara,
Loknath, Mahachanda Rosana, Navagraha,
as well as Hindu Gods Vishnu, Parvati,
Ardhanarisvara and Hanuman, Shiva,
Ganesha, Sudama, Krishna, Surya,
Uma-Maheshwara, Mahisasurmardini,
Kaumari and Chamunda, and bronze
images of Buddha, Maitrya, Vajrapani,
Avalokiteshwara, Lokeshwara etc. Other
notable finds include ancient iron objects
and jewellery like rings, beads and pendants.
The remains of a nearby fortress have also
been exposed, probably built from material
robbed from the Mahavihara. The museum is
open from sunrise to sunset and entrance fee
is Rs 5 for citizens of India and visitors from
SAARC and BIMSTEC countries and Rs 100
for others. There is free entry for children up
to 15 years.
How to reach Vikramshila:
Vikramshila Express runs from Delhi to
Bhagalpur. Vikramshila is about an hours
drive from the district town and railway
junction of Bhagalpur, which is an important
business centre with several good economic
and budget hotels. The nearest big town
from Vikramshila is Kahalgaon, which has
unearthed many ancient rock sculptures,

with the Kahalgaon station about 13km


away from Antichak. It is also approachable
through an 11km long motorable road
diverting from N.H. 80 at Anadipur, about
2km from Kahalgaon.
Since 2009, there has been considerable
work in maintaining and beautifying the
place to attract tourism, with a resultant
inflow of western tourists and those from
the far-east. A large number of tourist
groups arrive at Jay Prakash Narayan
International Airport in Patna, which is
about 250 kilometres away, and travel to
Bhagalpur by road in luxury coaches, from
where Vikramshila is a half-day round-trip.
Bhagalpur is situated on National Highway
80. Vikramshila is also an important part of
the itinerary of the Kolkata-Varanasi river
cruise on the Ganga, organized by Pandaw
river cruises. Those coming on the cruise
remain here overnight on the boat, and then
sail on.
The Vikramshila university site also hosts
the Vikramshila Mahotsav, a festival held
annually in February.
On crossing the Ganga at Bhagalpur,
where one can view the magnificent
Vikramshila Setu, one touches NH 31, which
serves the other famous Buddhist centres of
Nalanda, Rajgir and Bodh Gaya. The other
airport close by is Bagdogra, about 285 km
in north-east direction in West Bengal, on
NH 31. (Turn to next page for Bhagalpur).

Mandar Hill temple

Bhagalpur
Bhagalpur is a city of historical importance
on the banks of the Ganges River, situated
410 km northwest of Kolkata and the 2nd
largest city after Patna in Bihar. References
to Bhagalpur can be found in Indian epics
like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata
where Bhagalpur has been described as the
kingdom of Anga, said to be ruled by king
Karna of the Mahabharata, who was well
known for his charity. The Manas-Kamna
Temple at Karnagarh (Nathnagar), is also
known as Karnas palace. In later times
it was included in the powerful Hindu
kingdom of Magadha, or Behar, and in the
7th century it was an independent state,
with the city of Champa as its capital.
Ancient cave sculptures from Emperor
Ashokas reign, from 274 to 232 BC,
are found in the neighbourhood and at
Sultangunj, 20km west of Bhagalpur, and a
temple from the Gupta period still exists in
Bhagalpur. It afterwards formed a part of the
Mohammedan Kingdom of Gaur in West
Bengal, and was subsequently subjugated
by Akbar, who declared it to be a part of the
Delhi empire. Bhagalpur passed to the East
India Company by the grant of the emperor
Shah Alam II in 1765. The tomb of Suja,
brother of Moghul emperor Aurangzeb, in
the heart of the town, shows its association
with the Mughal period. Bhagalpur was also
one of most important trade centres of the
Bengal Presidency during the British India
period.
Bhagalpur is world renowned for its silk

34

and it is known in India as the Silk City,


famous for its Tussar Silks and saris. It is
also famous for its mangoes. It was referred
to as one of the biggest trade centres in
eastern India by the 7th century Chinese
travellers Hsan-tsang and Fa-Hien. During
an archaeological excavation, many boats
and coins of the Middle and Far East were
found here. The city had a big harbour on the
River Ganges at place called Champanagar,
and the river flows on the western boundary
of the city, near Nathnagar. The Jain Temple
at Nathnagar is an important pilgrimage
centre for Jains while Budha Nath Temple is
an ancient Shiva Temple on the banks of the
Ganges. Sultanganj (about 25km West) is an
important religious shrine for Hindus from
where holy water of the Ganges is carried
and offered at Deoghar. Bhagalpur also has
the Dwarga of Shawaz Rahmatulla near
Bhagalpur Railway Station, a popular haunt
for Muslims.
Bihar has a tradition of rock paintings
from megalithic times, similar to those
found in Europe. The rock cut carvings of
Bhagalpur on a huge granite hill are a major
tourist attraction dating back to the Gupta
period. The Colganj rock cut temples of
Bhagalpur exhibit a large number of deities
belonging to the Buddhist, Jain, and Hindu
pantheon. The area around Mandara Hill
is laced with a landscape of extraordinary
splendour. The 800 feet high granite hill is a
sight to see in daylight.
Legend has it Mandar hill was used by the
gods to churn the ocean to get hold of amrit;
this process was called Amritmanthana.

Vikramshila Setu

Basukinaga, or Vasuki the serpent, served


as the rope for the gods and left behind an
impression of his coil, which can be seen on
the granite hill. It is believed that panchjanya,
a conch shell used in Mahabharata War, was
discovered here in the Shankha Kund. The
Puranas also refer to the hill. It was said to
have been visited by Vishnu as Madhusudana
(the destroyer of Madhu the Demon). It is
said that Vishnu buried Madhu under the
hill after putting him to death. Kalidasas
Kumarasambhava refers to foot marks of
Vishnu on the slopes of Mandara. Ancient
images about 3000 years old, of three pairs
of giant feet, are found here. The hill is
replete with relics of bygone ages. Apart from
inscriptions and statues, there are numerous
rock cut sculptures depicting various images
of Hindu Gods. It is a popular picnic spot for
people in the area.
The hill is equally revered by the Jains
who believe that their 12th Tirthankara
attained nirvana at the summit. It houses
the most notable of its temples the grand
Mandar Hill Temple, related to the salvation
of 12th Jain Teerthankar, Vasupoojya Swami.
It has high pinnacles and a coral-colored
idol of Lord Vasupoojya in a cross-legged
posture showing him attaining supernatural
knowledge. A beautiful cave temple is visible,
with a 5-feet-tall standing idol, which is
known as the place of salvation.
Other temples include Jangira temple, Jain
temples like the Champanagar temple, and
Maa Kali Temple (shaktipith) in Navtoliya,
38 km from Bhagalpur. The region also has
many ashrams and one worth visiting is

Ancient Shiv temple, Budhanath

Rock carvings at Colganj


Menhi Ashram

Pandaw cruise through the Gangetic Dolphin Sanctuary

Baba Ajgaibinath temple


Champapur
siddha kshetra at
Champanagar

Maharshi Menhi aashram, at Kuppaghat, on


the banks of the River Ganges. Khanquah
Shahbazia at Maulanchuck is the shrine of
a great Sufi saint and Islamic Scholar in the
time of Aurangzeb, and you can also visit the
Dargah of Ghuran Sah Pir Baba.
The endangered Gangetic dolphin,
declared as the National Aquatic Animal of
India, is being protected in the Vikramshila

Ibrahim-hussian dargah

Gangetic Dolphin Sanctuary on the banks


of the Ganga, very near the town. The
sanctuary also has a variety of waterfowl
species, freshwater turtles, gharial and
smooth coated otters.
The Bikanpur mosque and the
Khaligabagh mosque is sparkling white
and are considered to be very famous in
Bihar. Bhagalpur also has the grand tomb of

Ibrahim Hussain Khan in Khanjarpur which


is one of the famous monuments in Bihar.
The other famous monument in Bhagalpur is
the Ghanta Ghar or Clock Tower, which was
built during British times.

35

sexy
Esha
The sultry Esha Gupta
is creating waves
with her sizzling
performances and
news of her enacting
a desi version of Lara
Croft, thanks to her
uncanny resemblance
to Angelina Jolie.
She discusses life,
love and acting with
Anubha Singh

Are you enjoying the fruits of your success?


I actually bought a car from Prakash Jhas
money which I earned from Chakravyuh.
I didnt have a car till Raaz. Thanks to my
makeup artist, he used to start a little early
and pick me up from my residence and
then drop me back home. Many a time even
Vikram Bhatt dropped me back home. This
is my first car. Its a Skoda Superb. I even
got lucky with the number, its 786. Its a
secondhand car, but I am happy that I own
a car now. After the success of my first film
Jannat, I also treated myself to a one-carat
diamond ring.
Why did you decide to host a show on
supercars on Nat Geo?
They wanted a woman to host it as
women are usually not interested in cars. I
do not believe in following trends. I want
to do things on my own, things that I
believe in. I got an offer for the show and I

36

Esha is comfortable in her own


skin and proud of her toned body

felt this was something different. The show


was informative in so many ways about
the worlds best cars. The same goes for
Chakravyuh. So many people warned me
not to play the de-glamourised role of a cop,
and a woman much older than me. But I
really believed in the idealism of the film. I
modelled the role on supercop Kiran Bedi,
who is a friend of my mothers.
How difficult is it surviving as a
newcomer in Bollywood?
My father is an ex-Air Force man and so
I will always be called an outsider. I am still
a newcomer and when I came to Mumbai
I had no idea about anything. I still have to
think twice before I take a decision. Maybe I
just got lucky. Fate has a big role to play and
God has been on my side. There are pros and
cons though. Newcomers make mistakes. But
when I reach the level Deepika and Katrina
are at, I cant make mistakes. I can still make
mistakes now and learn. On the whole,
its been great. I have met truly good souls

and supportive people, and have ended up


finding the best of friends here.
Has stardom changed you in any way?
I dont think movies can change lives.
I am the same person that I was before. I
still hang out with my friends and do what
I used to. My friends warn me, saying I
shouldnt be that carefree. I dont pay any
heed to them. But yes, every now and then,
somebody recognises me as the actress Esha
Gupta. The one thing that did change was
that I have become very busy. I hardly have
time for family and friends. I cant remember
the last time I spent extended time with my
family. They are briefly here when my films
are released, but thats it. My day starts at
5:00 am and ends at 10:30 pm. There is so
much to do shooting, workouts, meetings,
narrations and interviews phew! And
inspite of 20-hour days, you must look your
best all the time. Even on the days when I
am not shooting, I have my gym, the Israeli
martial arts that I am doing, my dancing,

etc. But I love it all. I am a person who cant


sit idle. Its been fantastic. I cant remember
a single day when I didnt have anything to
do. Even though its been really hectic and
tiring at times, I dont feel like taking a break.
I really miss not being with my family but
apart from that life keeps getting better and
better. I just want to work and work right
now, for the next 10-15 years. I am happy
that I am always working, what more can I
ask for? I never say that I want a vacation,
because that means I am refusing work.
You have earned the reputation of a
bombshell. Is it easy for you to shed your
inhibitions?
Its just films and honestly, we all are
going so Western in our outlook. I dont get
why people react so much to such things.
They are just a reflection of reality, of what
happens between a man and a woman. In
a film we have to do everything to make it
seem real. Kissing is the purest form of love.
We are not just showing sex because we have

37

Above and
below: Esha
with Armaan

With sister Neha

to cater to a large audience. Its not a blue


film we are making. Plus, its very mechanical
as there are 50 odd people at the shoot and
after every 30 seconds someone says cut.
We get conscious. My co-stars like Emraan
actually joked about filming a steamy scene
to make me comfortable. Hes a superb actor
and a great support. My only worry was that
it shouldnt look vulgar because we were
trying to show love between a man and a
woman. Steamy scenes are no big deal for
anyone in Bollywood today; its the scenes
effect on the entire film that matters. And my
worry is when my father sees my films, he
should not cringe.
What is your criteria of choosing a film
director, banner or the script?
Its actually everything. I got lucky when I
got Jannat 2. I feel very fortunate that I was
groomed by Mahesh Bhatt. I call him my
4am father, I can call him for any advice. It
was the same for Raaz 3 and Chakravyuh.
But at the end, the director really matters
because he can make you do wonders in a

38

Esha with Feroze Gujraal and guests

film, like what Vikram did with me in Raaz.


I could emote a lot in the film. And Prakash
Sir gave me a new avatar in Chakravyuh.
You are set to work with Vishesh Films
again. What is the status of that film? We
also heard you are doing an item number
in Gori Tere Pyaar Mein, being considered
for Ekta Kapoors Villain and the lead role
in an Indo-American version of Lara Croft,
Tomb Raider.
You guys seem to know more about my
career than I do! I have a contract to do three
films with Vishesh films and Ill do three
more films with them if I have to, as I love
working with the Bhatts. But they were busy
with the sequels to Murder and Aashiqui,
so my film was still in the scripting stage till
recently. In future I would love to do action
films and full-on masala films. I really like
the Akshay Kumar and Jackie Chan sort
of action combined with comedy, where
the emphasis is more on raw combat than
hi-tech wired stunts. Not that I would mind
doing that either.
You enjoy the desi Angelina Jolie tag?
I am so over it. We have enough beauty
in our country. I dont want to be Angelina
Jolie. I dont look like anyone but me,
except my mother, who I resemble a lot,
and I think the credit should go to her for
making me look the way I do. But Im being
compared with the hottest woman in the
world. Nothing wrong with that! In Bhutan,
there were some tourists who thought I was
Angelina. I just waved at them and they fell
for it. And I walked off laughing!
What is your idea of romance? What
turns you on?
I am quite a romantic at heart. For me,
romance is lighting the entire house with
candles. I have done that earlier (Smiles). On
my 20th birthday, I remember being gifted
20 cupcakes. I have gone parasailing with my
guy. I have gone to the middle of the sea and

Esha with Emraan and Mahesh Bhatt

jumped off! I have done crazy things when


in love. A good sense of humour tops my
wish-list for turn-ons, followed by attractive
body odour. Looks dont matter but I like
men who challenge me. I prefer a toned body
to an ugly beefy one. I find metrosexual men,
who wear green or orange pants but make
it look hot, attractive. I like a man who is
comfortable with himself. My perfect date
with my man would be special hours on a
beach, amidst candles, on a soft bed. I love
mountains too but the sound of the waves
spell magic for me. Love is not about gifts
for me, its more about surprises. I got a dog
on my birthday 4 years back and his name
is Nawab. Thats one of the most memorable
gifts I can recollect.
Why dont we get to hear about your
link ups? Tell us about your guy? Are you
in love?
Ive been in love with a man, and its not
my father Im talking about. Thats all Im
saying...But I am careful now and single as
well. Why should I have link ups? I want my
work to speak. My guy was not from this
industry and I am not seeing anyone right
now. Those are things of the past.
Does your tattoo, AR, stand for the guy
you were secretly seeing, Armaan, son of
socialite Feroze Gujral? We hear you fly
frequently to be with him in the US where
he is studying?
My costar Arjun Rampal would tease me
during the shooting of Chakravyuh saying he
couldnt believe that I was such a huge fan of
his that I had got his initials tattooed on my
wrist. I told him that while I admire him as
an actor, the tattoo of AR was actually for
my parents, Arun and Rekha, which I got
after my mother had an accident and had to
be hospitalised.
Tell us about your life before films.
Actually during my student days, I did
not even think that I would be an actress.

Posing for the cameras

I have done my graduation in mass media


and thought I would pursue writing. I even
wanted to do a post graduation course. In
my younger days, I thought I would be a
lawyer. I come from a non-film family and
Bollywood was something not even remotely
on the horizon. After appearing for my
graduation exams in Mass Communication
(Journalism) from Manipal University, I
was awaiting my results. My mother wanted
me to participate in the Femina contest
though I thought it wasnt for me. I took
it up, considering it would keep me busy
until my results were out. After I took part
in Femina Miss India in 2007, I moved to
Mumbai. I began modelling for magazine
covers. Modelling, initially, was just a hobby
and not a career choice because I had
already got a scholarship in BPP Law School,
Newcastle. As I had to represent India in
the international pageant, I thought Id take
a years break and then join the law school.
But later, I realised that modelling was fun
and enjoyable. I started getting film offers
but thought I should prepare myself first and
enrolled in Anupam Khers acting academy
and did the rounds of auditions, which
fetched me a Bhatt film. I was confident of
myself by then. The Bhatts felt I had typical
Indian features but there was that sexy
Indianness. As I was born and brought up
in New Delhi, I had an upper hand with my
fluency in Hindi.
Tell us about your folks. How is your
family reacting to your stardom?
We are all very non-filmy. We are from
the Arya Samaj and I have been named
by my grandmother. My folks are still
based in Delhi. My father is an ex-air force
guy and then got into the construction
business and he thinks that after my birth

this is the biggest moment of his life. It


is an emotional moment for them.Being
from an Air Force background, my family
is very broad-minded. We openly discuss
everything. I am a daddys girl, while my
mother is my best friend. There is absolutely
nothing thats hidden from her, whether its
my first time failing in an exam or kissing
a guy for the first time. My mother knows
everything about my life. My mother is the
most amazing woman Ive ever met, no one
could ever compare to her, shes a true lady!
She writes poetry. Its been an extremely
exciting year for my family, which includes
my sister Neha, with two back-to-back hits.
My parents were extremely proud of me. But
after all that excitement, my granny passed
away last year, and we were extremely sad.
So now I just want to quietly spend each and
every holiday only with my family, at home.
I really missed my granny during Diwali.
Every Diwali, we eat together, light diyas
around the house. During Chote Diwali, we
have a bonfire and we all sing folk songs and
distribute sweets. My love for celebrating
festivals and jewellery has been cultivated
right from my childhood in Delhi. My prized
possession is a pair of gigantic jhumkas
owned by my mother. I have not worn it yet
because its very precious and dear to me.
Its something of a legacy piece. When I get
married, I will pass it on to my children. I
recently asked my sister to buy my mother a

nice piece of jewellery for her anniversary.


You are a Delhi girl and you have now
shifted to Mumbai. Which do you think is a
better city?
Delhi is where my heart is. Mumbai
is where my dream is. Delhi scores as my
family is here. I was born and brought up
here. Also, the food in Delhi is something
you cant miss. But Mumbai is magical and
the city is what made me who I am today.
How do you unwind?
Nothing gives me greater pleasure
than being with my family and my dogs.
Whenever I get three-four days in hand, I
fly down to Delhi to spend time with them.
I am a pucca foodie. Im not kidding when I
say I can eat more than any girl can. Delhi, of
course, has the best food. If someone asks me
what I miss about Delhi, I would blindly say,
food, food and food. I have all my favourite
spots marked around the city, places that I
went to all through my life and I still try to
take out time for these joints. Bengali Market
for pao bhaji, Amar Colony for its chole
bhature, Parantha Wale Gali in Chandni
Chowk for paranthas and Daryaganj for its
dal makhni
How do you maintain your figure?
I have to eat something every two hours,
otherwise I feel mera BP low ho jaata hai. But
I make up by gymming and working out and
thankfully I have a high metabolism rate so
that also helps.

39

Left to right: The Vogue shoot

Beauty Secrets
I neither put on nor lose weight easily. My
fitness routine includes dancing, (jazz,
hiphop and kathak), weight training, along
with Pilates and cardio. I also play squash.
I feel that dance is one of the best forms of
exercise. It helps you to be fit and at the same
time also relaxes ones mind. It is one of the
best forms of expression as well. Sometimes I
dance for two hours a day.
As a child I was chubby. I was into sports
and was too tomboyish to care about how I
looked. It was only in college, after I started
losing all the baby fat, that I realised I may
be a good-looking person. I remember when
I did my first calendar shoot, my sisters
friends wondered if I could ever carry off
a bikini. They are still surprised that I got
into modelling. The baby fat stayed for a
long time, almost until I was 18. I won the
Miss India title a year later. It was during
Miss India that I first realised that I should
workout. I saw all these girls taking so much
care of their bodies. I was into yoga, my
father who is a retired air force man, started

40

me on it when I was 11. If I have been fit, it


is thanks to sports and Im flexible because
of yoga. But looking at Deanne Pandey train
everyone, I got into gymming too.
I never get bored of a workout, because I
feel great after a session. I currently have a
lot going on, so I dont get to exercise that
much. But on a usual day, I go to my building
gym in Andheri. I cannot exercise at home. I
need to have that mirror in front of me, and
that whole vibe of other people working out
around me. I do an hour of weights, which
include sides and abs, followed by 30 minutes
of cardio with crossfit. I like working out
in the mornings, but it depends on the day.
I alternate cardio and crossfit because of a
knee injury I suffered when I fell down as a
kid. There is a gap between the bones that
hold the knee together. This is why I practise
yoga without fail. Even if I cant workout I
start my day with Surya Namaskar. While I
dont do complex stuff, I feel like my body
opens up with yoga. I always do it before a
cardio session.
I am vegetarian and I love my food. The

moment I wake up I have to eat. If I dont eat,


I feel like my blood pressure is dropping. I
get crabby if I have gone more than half an
hour without eating. Being a vegetarian, I
follow a simple, basic diet, which I change on
a weekly basis. I space out my meals through
the day. I start my day with two slices of
multigrain toast and a cup of tea. Three
hours later I have the Apple, Beet, Carrot
(ABC) juice, which Abhay Deol introduced
me to. It sounds awful but it tastes pretty
good. This I have with three egg whites
which are either boiled, scrambled or made
into an omelette. For lunch I have something
light, like dimsums, or a soup or a salad.
Another three hours later, in the evening,
I have Bournvita. My dinner comprises
dal, sabzi and a chapatti. I know people say
you shouldnt eat curd at night, but Im a
north Indian, I cant go without curd. I also
have fruits throughout the day. Right now,
Im going through an orange phase. I eat it
so much that people tell me Ill turn into
an orange. I do indulge sometimes with
chocolates, desserts, etc but you cant really

call it cheating because I dont have a diet per


se. But I balance my meals. If I have carbs in
the evening, I wont do that at night. I have
never had a dietician and I never will, unless
I get a disease. I enjoy cooking for people I
am close to. So I make these cheesy Italian
dishes, have a couple of bites, and make my
sister eat the rest, while I gorge on the salad.
If I had one wish, Id ask god to make all the
fatty foods healthy.
I find that a splash of cold water on my
face soon after I wake up refreshes me and
wakes me up. I dont use a towel, and let it
dry on its own instead. Yoghurt or curd is
my all-time favourite beauty product because
its natural and has so many great uses. It
gives your skin a healthy glow, works as
a conditioner and promotes hair growth,
among other things. I apply a curd and
cucumber mixture on my face at least once a
week. As far as my hair is concerned, I go for
deep-conditioning treatments on a regular
basis. I dont wear too much make-up if Im
not shooting. I dont even style my hair.
Apart from a good foundation, the

essentials I carry are mascara, a lip balm and


my YSL No.15 lipstick. I would advise people
to drink lots of water throughout the day
even if you dont feel thirsty. I drink 4 litres
of water a day. Secondly, avoid smoking, as it
causes your skin to age faster. Also, instead
of trying a host of different beauty products,
visit a dermatologist in case you have any
skin-related issues. Before stepping out of my
house, I just sweep on some of my Lancme
Hypnse Mascara. Its just that and my wild,
curly hair.
My mother is my role model when it
comes to beauty, because she believes that
we should be thankful for the way God made
us, instead of undergoing surgeries to try
and change the way we look. She has never
treated herself to a facial, bleach or any other
chemical treatment. She eats healthy and
doesnt smoke or drink. Because of her, I find
women in saris beautiful. No woman can
look as sexy as an Indian woman in a sari.
With so much fabric, we still manage to look
so elegant. In jewellery, I have a fetish for
yellow gold and diamonds.

41

Building a
sound future

rof. (Dr) Dilip K. Bandyopadhyay,


Vice Chancellor, Guru Govind
Singh Indraprastha University,
Delhi, is a visionary academician
who for the last 36 years has inspired
students, academia, and policy makers to
redefine excellence. Airports India spoke to
the veteran on the future of higher education
in India, his plans for the university and
much more.
What are the new trends in the Indian
education sector?
Some of the new trends in Indian
education are Public-Private Partnership
(PPP), focus on quality education and
impetus being given to research and
development. According to me, the relevance
of PPP model would grow in times to come.
India is targeting to take its GER (gross
enrollment ratio) to 30 percent of students
in 18 to 25 years of age, who go for higher
education. So more new universities and
institutes need to be constructed, nurtured
and promoted. A higher enrollment
ratio resulting in enhancement of human
capital corresponds to an increase in the
national wealth. Education demands quality
orientation. Good academic institutions are
built up by good faculty. This throws up an
additional challenge of attracting the best
brains, to academics.
What would you like to suggest to
female students planning to pursue studies
in Delhi?
I would like to tell them that both the
central and the state governments are taking
stringent measures to provide security to
women in the city. They should come with an
open mind to this land of opportunity. We
have a hostel near our campus and if there
is any problem, the faculty is always there to
help them. We believe in taking care of our
students.
How active is the training and
placement cell of the university, especially

42

Prof. (Dr) Dilip K. Bandyopadhyay

during recession?
We already have a centralised placement
cell and we are planning to strengthen it
further. Students should not worry about
placements, as Indias domestic market is
large and there are enough jobs for freshers.
Every company is getting its Q3 and Q4
profit and is approaching us to hire our
students.
Can you elaborate on your future plans
for GGSIU?
Our university has made a mark for itself.
We want to take this institution to the next
level by bringing in more quality, newer
innovations, focus on industry-oriented
professional education and enhancing our
research activities. Our vision is to turn
GGSIPU into a world-class university
where there would be a conglomeration of

students and faculty members from various


places to generate new knowledge and at
the same time creating an environment
where confluence of ideas would take place.
I am happy to share new developments
like establishing a Centre of Excellence
in Pharmaceutical Technology, initiating
new research activities in basic and applied
sciences, bio sciences and IT and taking
the number of Ph.D seats to 75 to 80 from
next academic session. Our East campus
at Surajmal Vihar is under construction
where we plan to launch designing courses
in streams like architecture, manufacturing,
instrumental science, textile etc. My
immediate focus is to bring quality faculty
members of national and international
repute to our university.
What are the challenges faced by our
higher education?
There is a serious crunch of quality faculty
members. We need teachers who are credible
and capable to transform students from one
level to the next level of excellence. Thats the
actual meaning of education. The teachers
are agents of making that transformational
change. Raising quality faculty is a
serious challenge. Presently, there is no
accountability on part of teachers.
Only a handful of teachers and professors
are dedicated and passionate about teaching.
There is little focus on research activities.
For a high quality teaching, we need best
brains to join the profession. Unless and
until we take care of this challenge, there
will be no progress. Even if we give degrees
to students; the value of these degrees will
be questioned. This is because if students
are not transformed and equipped then
their employability will be a major problem.
Unfortunately, this is the current situation.

43

44

45

46

Cent Kalyani will empower women


M. V Tansale, CMD, Central Bank of India, speaks about the unique products
introduced by his bank, especially for women entrepreneurs

hat are the various services


provided by Central Bank
of India?
Central Bank of India is
a pan India bank with 4,230 branches across
India and a business worth Rs 3,70,000 crore.
So we have the entire range of products and
services that would include everything that
covers financial inclusion to financing top
most corporate of the country. It is my great
privilege to tell you that 63 percent of our
branches are in the rural and semi-urban
areas and hence we have a predominant
presence in the rural sector.
Forty eight districts in the country have
been allotted to Central Bank of India to
perform as the lead bank, besides this we
also have seven regional rural banks which
are operating in various states with over
2,000 branches. The bank also operates 48
training centres in rural cities for training
the rural youth and women along with 50
financial literary centres.
You would also be happy to know that
we have more than 3,750 villages with a
population of over 2,000 that are covered
under financial inclusion; in fact we have
extended our financial activities to around
9,000 villages both big and small, including
some ultra small branches.
Is there a particular criterion for
financial inclusion?
For financial inclusion you have to reach
the last mile, particular when the country is
moving towards Direct Cash Transfer, where
you have to make sure that the amount
reaches to the poorest of the poor, that too in
the smallest of villages, so we are all geared
up for it.
I am very happy that out of the pilot
15 districts Central Bank of India has got
responsibility of two districts in Madhya
Pradesh and Maharashtra and I am proud
to inform you that the first village in which

M. V Tansale, CMD, Central Bank of India

Direct Cash Transfer started was Amravati


District led by Central Bank of India. Hence
I can confidently say that my bank is doing a
commendable job at the financial inclusion
stage.
Are there any special schemes or
services for NRI?
The biggest concern of an NRI is to send
money to their loved ones back home in
India for which we have a special service
of online remittance. Using which NRIs
can send money to their family members
from anywhere in the world much faster.
To ensure smooth running of this facility,
we have collaborated with some service
providers from United States of America
and the money transfer is done seamlessly
electronically.
As the Managing Director of Central
Bank of India, what steps have you taken to
improve customer relations?
Central Bank of India was the first one to
introduce the concept of customer centricity
back in the year 2000 called Centralite
for Customers and that is the philosophy
followed by Central bank of India. I am also
proud to say that we are the fourth most

trusted bank in the country among the


public sector banks which further confirms
that we are giving a good service to our
customers. At present we cater to more than
4 crore customers through our bank and
that in itself says a lot about our customer
handling skills.
Are you planning to introduce any new
saving schemes for your customers?
Id like to take this opportunity and
highlight something that we have done in
Chhattisgarh for girl students. Around 3 lakh
girls get their scholarship via pre-paid cards
of Central Bank of India. It is like a savings
account but none of the girls have a physical
account with the bank.
Similarly in Kota, we have a tie-up with
Allen Institute and 35,000 cards have been
issued to the students which can be recharged with money by their parents from
any Central Bank of India branch in the
country. We also have specialised products
for Army, Navy and Air Force personnel
called Cent Param through which we offer
them concessional rates on loans and other
facilities.
Have you introduced any special plans
for the women?
We have launched a new product called
Cent Kalyani, this scheme is specially
introduced to offer financial assistance
to Women Entrepreneurs for economic
pursuits in Industry, Agriculture and Allied
Activities, Business or Profession.The
bank with network of branches spread
throughout the country welcomes women
entrepreneurs to avail financial assistance for
pursuing vacations to their choice. Women
entrepreneurs will be able to get loans up to
Rs 1 crore under this scheme and will have
a credit guarantee scheme for MSE. Credit
guarantee premium which is generally paid
by the borrower, we will offer concession to
the women towards that.

47

IN SEARCH OF MAN-EATING

LEOPARDS
photos & text: Navin M Raheja

48

Navin M Raheja,
Chairman & Managing
Director, Raheja Developers
Ltd, is a wildlife enthusiast
and passionate photographer.
In the past 35 years, he has
made several contributions
in the field of conservation
at various levels. A former
Member of Project Tigers
Steering Committee, under
the Ministry of Environment
and Forests, he has worked
tirelessly to ensure that the
big cats survive in India. He
is also Chairman, Wildlife
Conservation Society of India.
One of the leading developers
in the country, Raheja has a
holistic vision and believes

A leopard I came across during


my recent visit to Paudi Garhwal

t was a chilly December afternoon


December 17, 1997, to be exact when
my car broke down no sooner than
I had left the nondescript hamlet of
Duggada for Haldupurao, my destination,
which also happens to be one of the
most beautiful and undisturbed spots in
Uttarakhands Jim Corbett National Park.
Little did I know then that the forced halt
would open an altogether new chapter in my
life. That one incident would bring me closer
to one of the least understood phenomena
of Uttarakhand: that of the man-eating
leopards!
Well, to come back to the story which
sparked my interest in man-eating
leopards, I somehow located a dilapidated
Government rest house in Duggada while
a local mechanic towed away my car for
repairs. As I entered the rest house, the sun
was rolling down on a hill to my left. A closer
look at the surroundings revealed that the
area was actually quite strategically located
on the edge of a valley. A huge lawn in front
of the room beckoned me, and this is where I

that development and


protection of the environment
can happen simultaneously.
decided to have my cup of tea in the dying
evening light, under the shadow of an old Sal
tree.
But as I descended to a protruding rock
on the edge of the forest, the caretakers
scream from the kitchen made me jump in
shock. Sahib, the caretaker, now rushing
towards me, said, What are you doing?
Dont you know this is the time when Poojari
ventures out. Please come inside immediately
and dont forget to bolt the door.
Within the next ten minutes, with
stories from the caretaker and other staff
within closed doors of the bungalow, I had
become an expert on Poojari. A maneating leopard, which went by the name
of Poojari, had killed over 30 humans in
and around Duggada during the past two
years. All efforts to bag him alive or dead
had failed. I left Duggada for Haldupurao
next morning, but a few questions refused
to leave my mind: how come the man-eater
had not been captured or killed even after
30 human deaths? What must be the reasons
which made it a man-eater and what traits

49

The terrain around Paudi, where man-eating leopards operate

might have kept him alive despite best efforts


of the forest authorities and local shikaris?
Had the leopard started killing humans, not
its normal diet, because we have ravaged its
natural habitat? Who is at fault here he or
we?
The questions remained unanswered,
for I learnt that Poojari was shot dead a few
months later by a local hunter. Strangely,
even though I had not ever come face to face
with Poojari, this particular leopard refused
to leave my consciousness!
My further visits to Paudi district made
me realize that the terror of a man-eating
leopard was not confined to Duggada alone.
They exist and operate in large areas of

Uttarakhand, afflicting damage to humans at


regular intervals. Please note: The Poojari of
Dugadda who could not make me his dinner
is not to be confused with the man-eating
leopard of the same name which stalked
and killed humans in areas around Kotdwar,
not far from Dugadda, in the early 70s. The
`original Poojari, who killed over 40 people,
was captured and sent to Lucknow zoo in
1972. It was named Poojari as it lived in a
cave near a `Sidhbali temple.
The cries of men, women and children
who fall victims to man-eating leopards of
Uttarakhand hardly reach the cities down in
the plains. The main-line media is perhaps
too busy with politicians and celebrities to

The search for reasons which


cause an otherwise healthy
leopard to turn into a maneater has brought me to
several known and unknown
places in Uttarakhand. For over
the past two decades, I have
focused on the areas around
Paudi, since most incidents of
human killings take place here.
Very little scientific research
has been done to pinpoint
the causes. I will, of course,
delve on these issues in a future article. However, among other factors, its
the gradual degradation of forest cover over decades in the Paudi-Garwhal
region, which has led to a leopard losing its fear of humans.
50

take note of these tragedies which, over the


years, have grown to Himalayan proportions.
If you think I am overstating the facts,
please read on. More than 70 people in
Uttarakhand get killed by man-eating
leopards every year. Compared to this, only
a handful of people die in a tiger or elephant
attack all over the country!
More than anything else, I have been
trying to find out why the phenomenon of
man-eating leopards continues unabated in
Uttarakhand for over the past eight decades?
Jim Corbett shot his famous Man-Eating
Leopard of Rudraprayag in 1926, but since
then, many more man-eaters have appeared
on the scene. And also, why people living in
certain belts of Kumaon and Garhwal regions
of Uttarakhand are more prone to leopard
attacks than people living along the same
mountainous stretch, but outside these belts?
In my quest to make a film on maneating leopards of Paudi-Garhwal, I made
numerous visits to Paudi town, adjusting my
extremely busy schedule as CMD of Raheja
Developers, and found people continue to
live in perpetual fear of man-eating leopards.
These are the areas from where I came across
several horror stories: a school-going girl
literally snatched from her mothers hand by
a leopard, a man seeing a leopard dragging
and disappearing with his wife into a thicket,

A leopard which I spotted near Paudi

a drunk man making a fatal decision of


collapsing on the roadside and becoming the
leopards victim.
A comment made eight decades ago
stands relevant even today. In the concluding
chapter of his classic bestseller, The ManEating Leopard of Rudraprayag, the legendary
hunter-turned-conservationist Jim
Corbett makes this observation:
``Here was an old leopard, the
best-hated and the most-feared
animal in all of India, whose only
crime not against the laws of
nature, but against the laws of man
was he had shed human blood,
with no objective of terrorizing
man, but only in order that he
might live
Corbett is long gone from the
scene. The leopard, the handsome
prince of the Indian jungles,
is holding on to dear life in

Uttarakhand. That it has turned into maneater should not come as a surprise to us.
Fact is, all of us have contributed in some
way to this unfortunate phenomenon.
My earlier stories on wildlife and
environment, as well as our preservation
efforts in this direction through nature

documentaries made by Raheja Productions,


can be accessed at www.raheja.com. Also,
those interested in wildlife and environment
issues can tune in to our weekly programme,
Wilderness Days, on DD National (every
Saturday, 11a.m.) or DD India, every
Saturday /Sunday, worldwide.
The secluded villages in Uttarakhand where
leopards often find easy pickings

51

In the land
of the
Hoysalas
photos & text:
suprakash ghosh

52

Chennakesava Temple in Belur, one of the finest examples of Hoysala architecture

53

A wide view of Chatuskuta


temple at Doddagadduvalli

Hoysaleswar Temple, Halebidu, in the early morning

t was time for another break from the


daily grind to follow my passion. The
destination was Belur, on the banks
of river Yagachi, located in Hassan
district in Karnataka, and the early capital of
the Hoysala Empire. With Halebidu, which
is only 16 km away, it is one of the major

54

tourist destinations in the state. The journey


of the Hoysalas began 1000 years ago. They
were not born rulers, yet they went on to
rule for 300 years. They were tribal chiefs
and subordinates of the Westeren Chalukyas.
They were descendants of the Yadava clan,
and some claim that they were from Male

(hills), and natives of Malnad. Legend


has it that Hoy Sala, meaning Strike Sala,
was what Guru Sudatta Muni said to his
student, Sala, who was attacked by a tiger.
The duo were performing rituals at the
Vasantha Parameshwari Temple in a village
called Sasakapura or Sosevur. Sala killed the
animal with one blow and became immortal.
Sala was the first ruler and founder of the
Hoysala dynasty. This incident became the
emblem of the Hoysalas and inspiration
for defeating the Cholas. Arekalla, Maruga
and Nripa Kama I are some of the Hoysala
kings. The ones who really shaped their
history are King Vishnuvardhan and
Veera Bhallalla. Vishnuvardhan was also
known as Bittideva. He was a Jain who
became a Hindu following the preachings
of Ramanuja. His queen Shantaladevi
continued to patronize Jainism. King
Vishnuvardhan is famous for his patronage
of the arts along with his exploits on the
battlefield. The famous Belur and Halebid
Temples were built by him. During his reign,
an astounding 1500 temples were built in
958 locations, out of which only 100 survive
today. Legend has it that it took 103 years to
complete and Vishnuvardhanas grandson

Tourists admire the rich carvings on the outer walls of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

Veera Ballala II completed the task. Other


than Belur and Halebidu, several other
temples are tucked away in small hamlets.
I bought my ticket to Belur on the advice
of my co-passenger on a bus trip from
Chennai to Bangalore, and that was one of
the best things that happened on the trip. I
got down in Belur on a chilly, drizzly dawn.
A short walk from the bus stand and I was
knocking at the closed gate of Hotel Mayura
Velapuri, a KSTDC Hotel one of the few in
town. I settled in, limbered up and started
off for the main attraction in Belur, the
Chennakeshava temple. The temple is one of
the finest examples of Hoysala architecture,
built in commemoration of the victory over
the Cholas at Talakad in 1117 CE.
This is a complex which contains
the Chennakesava Temple (dedicated
to Chennakeshava, meaning handsome
Vishnu) as the centrepiece, and is
surrounded by the Kappe Chennigraya
temple built by Shantaladevi, queen of
king Vishnuvardhana and temples of

Soumyanayaki and Ranganayaki, consorts


of Sri Chennakesava. The facade of the
temple is filled with intricate sculptures
and friezes with no portion left blank. The
intricate workmanship includes carvings of
elephants, lions, horses, as well as episodes
from Indian mythology and sensuous
dancers (Shilabalikas). The temple is 37
meters tall and stands on a platform which
has exquisite art work on its outer walls and
bracket figures of dancing girls in various
poses, in perfect proportion. The bracketed
figurines called the Madanikas or celestial
nymphs are the highlight of the temples
magnificent architecture. The Madanikas
are said to be inspired by the beautiful
Queen Shantaladevi, a dance legend herself,
epitomizing the ideal feminine form. The
Darpana Sundari (Lady with the mirror)
carving is a major attraction. The Hoysala
Mahotsava, a dance festival, is celebrated in
the temples in March.
An interesting sight within the sanctum
are the ancient, jet-black Hoysala pillars,

covered with bright vermilion smeared by


devotees. Inside, even in the darkness, you
can see the shining pillars, each unique in its
own splendour. The most popular being the
Narasimha pillar in the Navaranga, unique
in its filigreed beauty. It is said to have
revolved on its ball bearings once. The entire
structure with its intricate work gleams
like metal. Chloritic Schist, a light greenish
soapstone, hard as granite, was used to create
the complex. The unique feature of Hoysala
architecture is that the temples are always on
a stone base about 4ft. high, and the edges
of this platform are zigzag or star-shaped,
making the temple look like a huge casket.
The walls of the temple are built by attaching
a number of horizontal panels and then
stacking the rows of panels one above the
other. The panels are of different dimensions
but the lowermost panels are always of
elephants, depicted as carrying the weight.
Hoysala sculptors have broken with
custom and signed their sculptures. They
engraved their names, titles and even the

55

Evening Havan (the Holy Fire), Chennakesava Temple, Belur

place of their origin at the foot of their work.


Mallitamma was the most prolific of all
known Hoysala artists and more than forty
well-executed sculptures stand in his name.
The credit of carving many of the sculptures
in Belur goes to Jakanachari. Legend says
that Dankanachari (son of Jakanachari),
found that the main statue of Lord Vishnu
was faulty and had a frog inside it. Jakana,
shocked to see this, cut his right hand. He
began to build another temple immediately
to compensate. Later, the old temple(which
had the faulty statue) came to be known as
kappechennigaraayas temple (kappe=frog).
After spending a few hours in the temple,
under cloudy skies and a drizzle, I started
for the little known Lakshmi Devi temple in
Doddagaddavalli. The distance may be only
16 km from Belur, but by public transport it
took me almost one and half hour, with a bus
ride followed by an autorickshaw, to reach
this site. As a matter of fact, I only prefer to
travel by public transport during such trips,
to get the feel of a place and its people.
This temple was inside a village with
a huge pond on one side. I spent a long

56

time wandering around. More than the


Chatuskuta (four-tower temple), I got a very
good sense of this serene village.
On my return to Belur, I spent a good
couple of hours inside the Chennakesava
temple again, and tried different camera
angles. The day was definitely not right as
far as the light was concerned. But I did get
some nice photographs including one of
priests performing Havan inside the temple.

The temple is being restored amidst verdant


green plantations by the ASI. The site is being
proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The next day was set aside for Halebidu
(literally Ruined City) and Belavadi temple.
The Hoysaleshwara temple in Halebidu is
on the same architectural platform as that
of Belur temple. The Hoysaleswara temple,
dating back to 1121 C.E., is astounding for
its wealth of sculptural detail. It is a twin

Visitors inside Hoysaleswar temple, Halebidu

The Chatuskuta Temple at Doddagadduvalli

Veera Narayana temple in Belavadi

Shiva Temple, with a common platform


and two garbhagrihas. One house is for
Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleshwara Linga and
the other for Shanthaleshwara Linga. In front
of Hoysaleshwara is the Nandimantapa,
and behind it is the shrine of Surya, with
a two-meter-tall image. The outer walls of
the temple have rows of intricate figures
narrating episodes from epics like the
Ramyana, Mahabharatha, and the Bhagavata
Gita. The walls of the temple are covered
with an endless variety of depictions from
Hindu mythology, animals, birds and
Shilabalikas, or dancing figures. Yet no
two sculptures are the same. I was very
excited when I entered the temple. The long
corridors were full of carvings and closed
doors, with a beautiful play of the suns rays
streaming through the openings. I was
totally absorbed in the photography, and
finally was thrown out for taking too intense
an interest in capturing the temple! What a
pity..... but thats how it was. Security or not,
Dhwajasthambham at
Chennakesava temple, Belur

58

it was difficult to justify.


With slightly dampened spirits, I
photographed the exterior which was equally
interesting. It was here that I got one of my
favourite images of a panel of Elephants.
After a brief visit to the nearby
Kedareswara Temple and Jain Temples,
I got into a shared autorickshaw for my
next destination in Belavadi. The ride
was through a dusty road with sunflower
plantations on both sides. The Veera
Narayana temple in Belavadi was built
during the rule of the Hoysala King Veera
Ballala II in 1200C.E.. Known in legend
as Ekachakranagara, Belavadi is said to be
the place mentioned in the Mahabharatha
where Pandava prince Bheema killed the
demon Bakasura. The material used here
is soapstone. While the famous temples at
Belur and Halebidu are known for their
intricate sculptures, this temple is known
for its architecture. The plan of the temple is
unique in that two of the shrines face each
Main Sanctum, Chennakesava temple, Belur

other and are located on either side of a wide


and spacious open mantapa (hall). In all, the
temple complex has fifty nine bays (hence
it has so many pillars), most of which are
lathe-turned and bell shaped, while a few
have decorative carvings on them. This is a
Vaishnava temple and all three shrines have
images of the Hindu god Vishnu, in different
avatars. The central shrine has an 8 ft (2.4 m)
tall image of Narayana with four hands, one
of the best examples of Hoysala art.
You can shop in Belur for terracotta items,
Panchaloha statues and soapstone & religious
items. My last day was spent in Munjirabad
Fort, built by Tipu Sultan. The views from
it were breathtaking. The bus journey on a
chilly morning through green plantations,
and watching watersports near the Yagachi
dam, was even nicer. The roadside food,
ramshackle buses, half spoken and half
understood words, had never felt so good.
What I learnt here is that communication,
like love, needs no language, only intent.

Neemrana Fort lit up at night

neemrana, Prithviraj & Me


Rubina P. Banerjee discovers that the fourteenth century blends
seamlessly with the twenty-first at the Neemrana Fort Palace
A concert at Neemrana

60

had dozed off. I was headed out to a


weekend getaway in Neemrana Fort
and the chrome and glass of Gurgaon
had faded, leaving in their wake a
monotonous trail of tractors on the highway,
announcing that we were indeed in Haryana,
where the main culture is agriculture!
Men and women headed to their fields all
loaded on the tractor and the streetside
shops offered mainly shovels and various
agricultural tools. NH8 was seriously very
workaday and dreary, so my eyes closed
even as I imagined I was catching every
detail. Then suddenly amidst the clutter of
the dusty arid landscape there were bursts of
green! Small ones at first of a tender yellow
green tone and then whole expanses of it!
What do you know, here was the original
sarson da khet! Like Dilwale dulhaniya
where the song Tujhe Dekha begins with
Kajol running towards Shah Rukh through
the Sarson ke Khet. The fields seem to
symbolize India and the fluorescent green of
the sarson seems to be the perfect backdrop
for rural Indias courtships! A speeding

truck broke my reverie to reveal, wonder of


wonders, a Japanese eatery! Not one, but a
couple and the Jaats tucking into bite size
sushi unbelievable! My mind raced for
an answer Globalization of course and
the Toyota Gosei factory nearby explained
it all! These eateries provided the comfort
of familiar food for the many homesick Jap
executives living in hardcore Haryana!
A camel tethered to a cart announced
that we were now in Alwar, the gateway to
Rajasthan, famous for its Kalakand sweet!
The tourist train, Fairy Queen, travels
between Delhi and Alwar, which was among
the Rajput principalities closest to imperial
Delhi and is still reminiscent of a regal way
of life. It is surrounded by the Aravalli Hills
and numerous forests and lakes dot the
picturesque valley and form the backdrop to
its attractions like the Sariska Tiger Reserve,
which has a rich variety of flora and fauna.
Known as Tiger Gate of San Luis Potosi, it
is replete with temples and palaces like Alwar
City Palace and Sariska Palace, majestic
hunting lodges, the Bala-Quila or Alwar Fort,

Dusk falls over Neemrana

the picturesque Lake Siliser, Sagar Dam and


Jayasamand Lake, the Moosi Rani ki Chatri
and the pre-historic ruins of Tehla village
and those of cloud-kissed Bhangarh. It is
one of the states oldest cities and its daring
rulers, celebrated in Alwars Museum, trace
their antecedents to the ancient kingdom of
Viratnagar that flourished here in 1500 BC.
Known as Matasya Desh, the Pandavas spent
their last years of exile here.
But foremost in Alwar, is the restored
Neemrana Fort Palace. It traces its origins
to Prithviraj Chauhan III and was built in
1464. In fact, the fort palace had became the
third capital of the descendants of Prithviraj
Chauhan III after Delhi and Ajmer, when
theyd fled Delhi in 1192, after the brave
Prithviraj was vanquished in the 2nd Battle
of Tarrain by Muhammad Ghori.
After Dharuhera, the road turned sharply
to the right and a winding lane, fringed by a
rambling old wall, took us up to Neemrana
Fort. The impenetrable tall red gate of the
fort was studded with lines of steel spikes,
and it stood half open, more menacing
than welcoming. A long dark ascent to the
entrance of the hotel seemed to echo with
war cries , and the martial history of the
Chauhans seemed to reverberate from the
stone walls of the fort which silently stood
testimony t their chivalry. The darkness was
broken by the light of an open verandah
where swings of every size and description
lay strewn. Catching my breath as I sat
on a swing, I realized that in the past this
had been no place for repose but a vantage
point to assess the approach of the enemy!

Lunch at Neemrana

Finally I reached the reception! Glasses of


water waited in an alcove and the cheery
yellow and blue colour scheme dissipated
some of my serious thoughts. Finishing
the formalities I made my way to the room
and found the fort to be a veritable maze! A
small courtyard opened out as we climbed
the steep stairs. Aging arched yellow
doors enclosing a Chameli tree and a dry
marble fountain welcomed me to my room
Krishna Mahal. Before my mind could
start answering the innumerable questions
I had, a warm red room welcomed me. Red
cement floors that teamed with a rich red
sangenarian print on the little couch, the
blinds and curtains, made me feel really
comfortable. It was a long room with a little

sitting area in the middle flanked by an old


wooden desk and a glittering brass lamp. An
arched door led to the Jharoka, a beautiful
ledge framed by three arches, and looking
out on the hill side and the village below. The
bed was on the far side of the room and had
a little sun terrace of its own. Two alas or
arched windows framed the sky opposite.
Sipping on my lemonade I stood on the
sun terrace, gazing over the hillside as a
small band of monkeys sat together on a
nearby hillock and pretended not to notice
me. As soon as lunch was served on the
wrought iron table, their gaze shifted to it
as did mine. There was yummy Rajasthani
cuisine replete with all my favourites - Gatte
ki sabzi, ker sangri, kadi and laal maas. I

61

The bedroom

The lounge

Dance performance
in Neemrana

The Jharokha

62

felt like a princess but that is the magic of


Rajasthan, it truly makes you feel royal!
Exploring my room was next on the
agenda. Two photographs drew my attention.
Sepia visuals of what were once a ruin was
now my room! The room, resplendent as
it was now, looked such a wreck then, said
the hotel manager Vipulji, because in 1947,
Raja Rajinder Singh of Neemrana had to
move down to Vijay Bagh as the faade of
his Fort-Palace crumbled and its ramparts
began to give way. The fort was fast declining
and threatened to be reduced to rubble. For
forty years, Raja Rajinder Singhji tried in
vain to find ways of restoring the fort. It was
only in 1981 when architectural restorer and
hotelier Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg
took it over that two decades of passionate
revitalization of a rather formidable ruin
resulted in the regal and resplendent
Neemrana Fort Palace as it is today. I got

Zipping across Neemrana on the ropeway

Ballooning over Neemrana

Camel ride at Neemrana


Village woman
displays her
skills

to reap the rewards of their labour and


stay in a 14th century room, wrapped in
the echoes of a glorious past. As I stood
on the arched ledge, I wondered whether
Prithviraj Chauhan once stood here and
viewed his territory as I did today. Was it
here that he planned his abduction of the
beautiful Samyukta? Chand Bardoi, his
court poet, encapsulated in the Prithviraj
Raso, the valiant life of the Rajput warrior.
Prithvirajs valour isnt his only claim to
fame, his romance is also the stuff of legend!
It was said that Samyukta, the beautiful
daughter of Raja Jaichand, fell in love with
him. They met in secret in the Koteshwar
Temple. Raja Jaichand got to know of their
secret love for each other and being a hated
rival of Prithviraj, wished to see his daughter
married as soon as possible to someone else.
To this end he arranged for a magnificent
Swayamvara and invited many princes of
high rank and heritage, deliberately insulting
Prithviraj, by not just excluding him but
placing a statue of him in the doorway as

Village women in Neemrana

63

Pre-historic ruins of Bhangarh


Peacocks in Neemrana

Donkeys in Neemrana village

Road to Sariska nature reserve

if he was a mere guard. Hearing of this the


lovers made their plans. On the day of the
ceremony, the beautiful Samyukta emerged
from the Jenana, bedecked as a bride, and
entered the hall where all her gallant suitors
awaited her garland. She walked on past all
of the assembled princes till she reached the
doorway and garlanded the statue of her lover
Prithviraj. Riding on a white steed, Prithviraj
came and swept his lady up on his horse and
carried her away! Bards in Rajasthan still
sing of the dauntless love of Prithviraj and
Samyukta! Dreams of their romance came
unbidden as I lost myself in the world of
slumber. When I woke, the light had faded
and a red sun peered at me through the ala
or window alcove. Still lost in my reverie, I
wondered which queen had lit the lamp here
at sunset, way back in 1464!
Before twilight descended into darkness
I wanted to take a tour of the hotel and the
manager kindly consented to be my guide or
else I would have been hopelessly lost in the

64

maze of the tiered fort.


The first room we visited was the very
room in which the last Maharaja lived.
A huge blue hued room, flanked by a
corridor on all sides, with Jharokas to
facilitate his viewing the ramparts and the
territory beyond. It had a beautiful bed and
magnificent chandeliers but there was a sense
of doom, as if a million deaths had been
predestined right here in this room, as the
military stratagems unfolded.
Outside, in the light of a beautiful
courtyard encircling a long, oval lily pond,
was a capacious banquet area, with stately
tables and blue chairs, hemmed in by a
little piece of lawn, a green contrast to the
dry rust of the hillside! Clusters of orange
bougainvillea from the hanging gardens
greeted me as I walked on, now descending to
another tier and discovering a long, beautiful
swimming pool reflecting the blue sky. It was
such a sanctum of peace but more remarkable
was how this newly constructed pool seemed

so intrinsic a part of the 14th century fort.


And the plaudits go to the restorers of the
fort who have veritably coined the phrase
Neemranification, symbolizing a new blend
of restoration, rebuilding and revitalization.
With its swimming pools and spa, it is a 14th
century fort geared to face the future, where
the past and the present both seem at peace
with each other. Here, one can take a camel
cart ride to an ancient stepwell or Baoli and
also take a flying fox zip over the fort or a
balloon ride!
A surprise waited round every corner,
behind the jaali, up the stone stairsone
kept wondering what one would see next.
Descending from the pool I wandered
through the arch into a large courtyard. A
small marble Deori enshrined the deity. A
Shiva linga in bronze, in martial mode, with
the mustached face of a warrior, and right
below it, an array of eleven marble lingams
giving it the name: Ekadas Linga. Jaalis
screened the courtyard on all sides and I

Silser Lake

Tigers can be seen again in Sariska

could visualise the silhouettes of the ranis as


they prayed at the shrine for their warriors
to return.Kesariya balamwa awo ri
pervaded the air in the plaintive voice of the
rural Rajasthani sarangi. What a charming
sight! A faint glow still warmed the skies,
and etched against the jharokas, the pain of a
thousand women before me seemed to echo
in the strains of the sarangi while the sliver
of a moon cast a spotlight on the warrior
face of the linga! Rajasthan is the land of a
thousand echoes brave warriors fighting
till death, braver women who crowned their
men with their sacrifices and their prayers
and wished only for their victory, and
betrayals like the betrayal of Mohammed
Ghori. Defeated at the First Battle of Tarrain,
Ghori had vowed never to look at India again
and been granted freedom by the victorious
Prithviraj Chauhan. He returned, betraying
his trust and defeating Prithviraj in the
second battle of Tarrain. The man who had
been such a recipient of the brave Rajput

Alwar City Palace

Kings compassion
imprisoned Prithviraj
and when the proud
King refused to
bow his eyes to the
scourge, Ghori had
his eyes gouged out.
Yet Prithviraj, the last
Hindu king of India
won this last battle,
aided by his loyal
poet Chand Bardoi.
Seeing his King in
such a state, Chand
Bardoi boasted that
even in this state of
sightlessness the king
could still aim and shoot an arrow perfectly
by hearing the sound alone. Ghori rose to the
challenge and asked the blind and bleeding
Prithviraj to aim at a gong which was to be
sounded when Ghori gave the orders. Even
as the gong rang Prithvirajs arrow pierced
it and Ghori shouted shabash! As the gong
was about to ring again, Chand Bardoi
recited a couplet, Char bans, chaubis gaj,
angul astha praman, ta upar sutan, chuko
mat Chauhan! And the valiant Prithviraj
shot the shabdbhedi arrow straight into the
gullet of Ghori, killing him instantaneously.
The couplet was nothing but a way to tell
Prithviraj just how far his target Ghori was!

Alwar Fort

It was dark now and musing on this story,


a little frightened by the sudden shadows
of the chameli trees and the hide and seek
of the jaalis, I decided to return to my
room. The sharp little staircase from which
I descended was filled with an amazing
aroma. I looked at Vipulji questioningly.
The question was answered by the little
blue signage on the landing, The Bakery,
and the freshly baked cookies, still hot,
crumbled in my mouth as once again the
present confronted me in Neemrana! I spent
my time swimming in the pool, going for
yoga and meditation, unwinding with a spa
treatment, shopping at the gift shop, playing
indoor games, and making new friends.

65

North Cascade National Park


Washington, USA
Photograph by Yvon Maurice from Ottawa

wonderful world

Photographers round the world capture iconic views from their window seats

66

Somewhere Around Dubai, UAE


Photograph by Timothy LaBranche

Somewhere between
Amsterdam and North America
Photograph by Pavel Trebukov

67

Above the Clouds in texas


Photograph by Dan Arevalo

68

Departing Houston, Texas, USA


Photograph by Timothy LaBranche

Harlingen, Texas, USA


Photograph by Christopher Rose

69

Hyde Park, London, England


Photograph by Daniel2005

the green fields of England


Photograph by robep

70

Tarun Shienh, CMD,


Premia Projects

Indias first real


estate guru
Tarun Shienh, Real Estate Guru & CMD,
Premia Projects, was recently honoured by
PHD Chamber of Commerce, Corporate
Fraternity and Ministry of Art & Culture,for
providing innovative and customised endto-end solutions to customers. He speaks to
Nikki Utpaul about his vision to create a panIndia presence for Premia Projects

What is the future of real estate in India?


Real estates future in India is bright but it
still has a long way to go as compared to the
international market. Indian economy stands
at a much better position as compared to
many nations in the world and the chances of
a sub-prime crisis are close to zilch because
our banking system is better organised, and
even though we dont have a credit rating
system, CIBIL is taken very seriously here.
What is the reason for so many housing
projects lying vacant at the moment, is it
because the market is slow?
Todays customer is educated and honestly,
there is no lull in the market today. If
you look at Premia, whenever we look at
the project, we look at the location plan
first. Today, the customer or the investor
understands that until and unless the
location is great or the concept is unique, the
kind of appreciation that is expected may not
be achieved.
So it is crucial for a developer to come up
with sound projects to be sold out in days.
We have just launched a new project called
Crown of Noida about ten days back and 30
percent of it is already sold out. So location

and a unique concept play a


huge role in the selling of a
project.
How aware are
customers today about the
real estate industry and
what kind of challenges do
you face from that front?
The customers today are still reeling from
issues such as lack of transparency, land
title clearance, financial issues, etc. in this
sector. And all these challenges create a sense
of distrust and confusion among buyers.
To counter these problems and to create
educated buyers, we at Premia have started
direct interaction with potential buyers and
as an initiative, we have started to answer
their queries directly which are related to
real estate. This is probably the first time a
CMD of a premium real estate company is
solving the problems of consumers. This
step should go a long way in building trust
between us and the buyers, and will go a
long way in educating the customers to make
the right decisions as far as real estate is
concerned.
You are known as the Real Estate Guru.
How did that happen?
The concept of Guru came into existence
as I have been helping many developers
strategise, form marketing strategies, in
policy-making and other crucial decisionmaking processes that would help them
market their product in much better way. I

dont say that whatever solutions I offer to


them or myself has a 100 percent success
ratio, however, people have been able to
attain 99 percent and that says a lot.
What are the current projects that
Premia is working on?
Premia is developing Indias first stateof-the-art, ultra luxurious Corporate city,
keeping in mind the lifestyles of todays
corporates. Indias first Corporate City in
Greater Noida West will have bouquet of
services including five-star hotel, corporate
offices, serviced studios, power villas, golf
course, amusement park and much more.
The corporate city will have land area of 15
acres with 70 percent open space. Corporate
offices will be spread over 11,00,000 sq. ft.,
serviced apartments across 1,50,000 sq.ft.
and shopping mall over 2,50,000 sq.ft. We
have recently launched Crown of Noida,
which has an entertainment zone and an
organised club which is not present in any
project in sector 62, 63 in Noida.
Tell us about the future projects that you
are coming up with?
We are coming up with projects in
Gurgaon, Bangalore, Mumbai and we are
scouting for land in Patna as well. By fiscal
2013-14 we would have about eight to nine
projects in the pipeline across India. We
intend to be a national brand and we have a
vision that after five years we should have at
least 50-60 projects spread across North and
East India.

71

MEDITATE
OVER THE CLOUDS

While flying you are closest to the fifth element of


creation, AKASHA, and as gravity decreases, you
can transcend into a blissful, meditative state

By Prasanna Kumar Patasani

have practiced meditation to help me


stay calmer in my own life and often
do it on a flight also. I prefer practicing
Breathing Meditation while flying, it
combines relaxed breathing and meditation,
with a simple method. Meditating while
on board gives me a different feeling from
when I practice it at home or the workplace.
According to the Law of Gravity says, the
greater the height, the lesser the effect of
gravity, so we are more detached from
materialistic matters which fill our mind
most of the time. As the aircraft rises higher,
gravity decreases to such an extent that
this feeling can be easily transcended into a
blissful, meditative state of detachment.
Detachment is being cool and uninvolved
on the emotional level. A detached person
can be very active and caring, though he
accepts calmly whatever happens. If he
cannot do or change something, it does not
disturb his peace of mind. On the other
hand, if he needs to do something, he
will pursue it wholeheartedly. He will do
everything needed to succeed. If it does not
work out, he stays calm, and will either try
again, or forget the matter easily and move
on to something else.
Detachment is important in daily life,
in the pursuit of ambitions and on the
spiritual path. It is of great importance to
everyone, whether pursuing spirituality or
material success. A person who engages in

72

meditation tries to quieten his mind during


meditation and in his everyday life. If he gets
emotionally involved with his thoughts, he
follows them, forgets about his meditation
and concentration, and loses his peace of
mind. On the other hand, the more detached
he is, the easier it is for him to ignore
disturbing thoughts.
Detachment helps you to stay collected
and concentrated. Detachment develops
when one engages in meditation. It is a
gradual, automatic process. While practising
this breath meditation, one endeavours
not to follow the thoughts and feelings that
arise. It is a time of a mental and emotional
vacation.
While flying you are closest to the Fifth
element of creation, AKASHA. This is the
element of the Spirit. This is the element
that transcends, yet is a part of all the
other elements. Akasha means inner space,
reflecting our belief that the universe is
both within and without ourselves. It has no
direction, yet encompasses all directions. It
is the Centre, the circumference, above and
below. It is beyond seasons and time, yet is
all seasons and time. It is the purely spiritual
element, the realm of the All. It is protection
and justice, movement and mastery, life and
death, and rebirth. It is often symbolized by
the turning wheel, or the sign of Infinity.
To prepare for meditation, sit in a
comfortable position with your hands lying

palms up in your lap. Breathe deeply down


into your abdomen. Feel yourself filling
up with air down deep, and feel your lower
belly move in and out with each breath. With
each inward breath, visualize cosmic energy
entering your airway and filling your entire
body, a little more each time.
Once youre focused, take notice of your
body and how each body part feels. Start

with the toes and work your way up to your


head. Sense your body as an open vessel,
ready to receive cosmic energy in a loving
manner. Move your body into position to
reflect this feeling. Witnessing thoughts is the
most important aspect of meditative practice.
Witnessing the thought process means to be
able to observe the natural flow of the mind,

while not being disturbed or distracted. This


brings a peaceful state of mind, which allows
the deeper aspects of meditation, revealing
that which is beyond, which is Yoga or Unity.
Just like a pure soul above the sky seeks
its compassionate mother womb to come
to this world, in the same way you will land
at airport with a calm mind and positive

thoughts. With this basic fact of non-duality


and infinity inculcated by meditation, land on
a new field. This state of mind will help you
become physically more relaxed and mentally
centered for the next assignment you are
going to face once you have landed.
Dr. (Prof) Prasanna Kumar Patasani
is a Lok Sabha MP

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Tarot Horoscope
for April 2013

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Whats On The

Aries (20 March 19 April)

Taurus (19 April 20 May)

Gemini (20 May 20 June)

Embrace happiness, express delight


and be ready for a cakewalk. Youll
experience a serene, harmonious and
eased up month. The stress and tensions
are all reduced to the minimum. It is
your time of homecoming to peace, joy
and affection. Youll also cut loose and let
go of limitations. Surround yourself with
goodness and appreciate simple joys.
Tarot advises you to indulge in playing
the good cards.

Make complete efforts and dedicate


yourself to the task that will produce steady
results for you. Youll approach the task
methodically and will focus on the finer
details as much as on the big picture. Youll
be committed to honesty and will balance
all factors. Keeping everything in balance is
difficult and youll have to do that and juggle
your way through the act while having equal
fun, and you will. Tarot advises you to kick
back and see the humour in the situation.

Have faith in the future and look forward


to successful events. Youll realize your
inner strength and will be stimulated to
a higher level. Youll handle distress and
maintain composure. Youll avoid all sorts
of unpleasantness and turn away from all
such events happening around you. You
will tap the fertile unconscious and will
indulge in idle daydreams. Tarot advises
you to value the inner life and seek selfimprovement.

Cancer (20 June 22 July)

Leo (22 July 22 August)

Virgo (22 August 22 September)

Youll take care or will be taken care of; youll


give or receive. It is the times of this or that,
you are on the ground or under it, and you
are beneath the sky or above it. The extreme
times of good or bad, there is no middle
ground for you this month. Youll practise
what you preach and will carry out plans using
your talent. Understand your intentions and
examine the situation at hand as well. You must
work both hard and smart. Stand up for what
you believe in and let only that be your guide.

Emotional pain and disappointments will


be the unsettling part of this month. Youll
feel isolated and lost because of trust
misplaced. Youll sustain an effort and
will concentrate all your energies on work
and competition. Youll be ego-focused
and will look out for your interests. Youll
overestimate your abilities and will boast
and brag. Tarot advises you to be content
with stillness and set down roots.

Pursue knowledge and become


informed to increase your
understanding. Youll be involved with
rituals and ceremonies this month.
Youll not let setbacks get to you and
will be firm as a rock. Youll forgive
imperfection and be kind. Youll
experience wholeness and bring parts
together. Tarot advises you to live in the
present and take pleasure in life.

Cards

Saburi Pandittells you


whats in store this month
saburipandit09@gmail.com

Libra (22 Sept 23 Oct)

Scorpio (23 Oct- 21 Nov)

Sagittarius (21 Nov- 21 Dec)

A door has closed only to open


another for you. Every pending
business will be finished and a chapter
will be completed. There is everything
fresh and new around. You will be
nurtured this month. You will have
love, support, and a very secure
environment. You will act honestly
and face the facts. Tarot advises you to
move out of depression and keep your
chin up and head held high.

This month for you begins with honesty, wit,


love, intuition, spirituality and ends with
the old hassles. Youll face the truth even
if unpleasant and your delightful sense of
humour will come in handy to diffuse the tense
moments. You will unconditionally accept and
will be easily moved. You will be open to the
unconscious and will find joy in communion.
But you will experience competition and will
be set right back where you belonged in the
hassled world. Tarot advises you to not be
bothered by trivialities and minor setbacks.

Youll express tenderness and enjoy


extravagance. Youll focus on the
physicality and the beauty of life.
Youll work with the physical and work
for concrete results. You will enjoy
abundance and experience growth. You
will passively accept and see only your
point of view. You will withhold affection
and be unaware of others. Life may be
stale and flat and very monotonous. Tarot
advises you to get lost in reverie.

Capricorn (21 Dec 19 Jan)

Aquarius (19 Jan 18 Feb)

Pisces (18 Feb 20 March)

You will experience upheaval and chaos.


You will explode and let everything go.
You will be humbled and will suffer a
blow to your ego. Think things over and
understand. You will retreat into a private
world and seek better understanding of
your surroundings. You will have to take
a stand and make hard choices. Tarot
advises you to release guilt and sorrows
and unburden yourself.

You will be moved and will let your heart lead


the way. You will receive guidance from within
and will trust your gut reaction. The love
relation that has begun will flower this month.
Moments of intimacy and togetherness are
on the cards. You will use thoughts creatively
and inspire and challenge through ideas. You
will provide security and comfort to your
loved ones and command to set direction.
Tarot advises you to tie up the loose ends and
organize the frame of life.

Youll be a good advisor and understand


many levels of experience. You will have
a quieting influence on others and will
keep your head in a crisis. Respond to
emotional needs and do volunteer and
charity work. Invent and use your art.
Get excited and be passionate this month,
as there is nothing to lose. Youll readily
jump in to help others and encourage
them. Tarot advises you to maintain a
calm, even approach.

85

BHUBNESWARS BIJU PATNAIK


AIRPORT GETS NEW TERMINAL
The new terminal of glass and steel meets world class
norms, and has state-of-the-art, user-friendly amenities

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Say No, Say No To Drugs

Text: Gp. Capt. (retd).


D. C. Mehta

hubaneswar airport has


been aptly rechristened
after its legendary son of the
soil, towering personality
& a daring ace pilot Biju Patnaik.
The existing passenger Terminal
has an area of 7500sqm & capable
of handling 400 passengers during
peak hours. To keep abreast with the
robust growth in passenger traffic
and anticipating the imminent need
to augment the capacity of existing
Terminal, Airports Authority of India
had decided to upgrade the it by
constructing a new, modern, state-ofthe-art ,world class terminal building.
The New Terminal was inaugurated
& dedicated to the nation by Shri
Ajit Singh, Honble Minister of Civil
Aviation, GOI, in the presence of
Shri Bhandare & Shri. Navin Patnaik,
Honble Governor & Chief Minister
respectively, of the State of Odhisa,
on 5th March, 2013. The date of the
inaugural function was so planned,
so as to accord true homage to the
Legendry Bijuji, as that day happened
to be his 97th Birth Anniversary.
Rich tributes were paid by all the
dignitaries in their addresses, by
highlighting his deeds of bravery in
flying. The new terminal is one-andhalf level Modular type building with
the capacity to handle 400 Arriving
and 400 Departing passengers with
an area of 18240 sqmt (Level-I/
13012 sqmt & Level-II/ 5223 sqmt).
The building is of glass and steel
meeting world class norms, and
has state-of-the-art, user-friendly
amenities, which cost AAI Rs 145
crores. The concept of the building
has evolved from the requirement
of short and direct flows from the
city side to the aircrafts. The diverse
demands of planning and safety have

Say No, Say No To Drugs

87

been addressed by developing segregated


internal and external arriving and departing
forecourts, creating a new concourse concept
wholly appropriate to the site. A logical
sequential layout of correctly sized space was
set to meet the column-free, large areas in
which the passengers experience volume of
space. Achieving maximum space
has allowed acknowledging
local influence
within a

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Say No, Say No To Drugs

contemporary structure and producing a


profile which is innovative, modern-looking
and delightful from within. Murals/Artwork
inside & outside the building areas depict the
local culture of the region.
The New Terminal Building is equipped
with modern amentias like CCTV cameras,
FIDS, FADS,PA system, HAVC and advance
BMS system , CUTE system , Aerobridge
and in-line check-in system. Some of the
facilities available are ATM, Snack counter,
Rest rooms, M.I. room, Restaurant, CIP
lounge, Smoking lounge,

Childcare, bookshops, etc.


The building is constructed by using
900.00MT Structural steel with total
welding length of 28.00 KM. The roof
structure is designed very economically
with Wt of Appx.44.00Kg/Sqm totaling to
Appx.770.00MT. The 130.00MT steel has
been used for an Aerobridge corridor and
other steel built-up section work. Further,
1517.00 MT of Reinforcement steel and
10920.00 MT of cement are incorporated
in the work. Piping for chiller water is of
3.00KM length. The total length of Baggage

handling system is 400.00 Mtrs with 100%


power back up and provided with 3 X 390TR
Chiller units for centralized air conditioning.
Service block and service tunnel have been
created by using existing landscapes to
minimize cutting and filing.
The building is provided with skylights
which minimize the lighting requirement in
daytime. It has been provided with energy
efficient lighting and air conditioning
systems. BMS and BEE Star rated equipments
and energy efficient motors have been
provided. For conservation of rain water,
six rain water harvesting wells have been
provided to cater to the runoff from all paved
areas. STP of 150 KLD has been provided
to treat the effluents and recirculation
system for gardening and horticulture,

The Chairman of AAI, V.P. Agrawal, speaking at the press meet during the inauguration

Say No, Say No To Drugs

89

with concept of zero discharge. Water


consumption is also minimized by using
sensor taps and water free urinals in some
areas. For environmental protection, existing
landscape is used to create low level parking
to minimize earth cutting and filling work.
Large scale plantation has been done in an
around building areas. An environmental
cell has been created to regularly monitor
the environmental parameters like
ambient air quality, noise level and water
quality. Refrigerant used for chiller is also
environmentally friendly and free from CFC.
The terminal has been designed for
expected pax in the year 2018 (2 MILLION).
The Modular design has an inbuilt flexibility
to increase Terminal capacity in future.
It has 18 check- in counters, 3 Carousels
(74 mtr length), 2 security enclosures
to accommodate 220 pax each at F/F, &
204 seated passenger capacity for Bus
Lounge at G/F. There are provisions for 2
Aerobridges for D category aircraft which
are to be installed by April 2013, 4 lifts and
2 Escalators, as well as Fire detection, Fire
alarm and Fire fighting Systems. Additional
parking capacity has been provided for
340 cars, 100 taxis, 10 coaches and 80 two
wheelers. Adequately depicted art and
culture of Odisha in the form of stone
sculptures, mural paintings, textile hanging
and patchitra etc are visible in the terminal.
The apron has been adequately expanded
so as to increase aircraft parking capacity
from 6 to 9. A four-lane VIP road connecting
city to the terminal has been provided. It is
on the anvil to refurbish the existing terminal
building for international operations,
extension of Runway from 9000ft to 10500 ft,
widening of basic strip up to 300 mtrs width
& construction of new control tower, and
technical block/Administrative Block.

Uniqueness of the terminal


All dignitaries without exception in their
respective addresses complimented AAI for
excellent work & giving the state of Odisha
a state-of-the-art & user friendly terminal.
The icing on the cake being that the Honble
Governor of Odisha not only compared it to
the best in the world but also stated that it

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Say No, Say No To Drugs

is unique to the extent that one cannot find


any airport in the world even in advanced
western countries decorated with such
beautiful paintings, depicting the rich local
culture & heritage.

MASK
Mask making in Odisha is an ancient art
tradition which has evolved with the growth
of the performing arts. A group of eight
masks comprising Durga, Jamvaban (the bear
advisor of Rama), Nrusingha, Ganesha, Bull,
Hanuman and Horse are linked to the Durga
Puja festival, Rama Nataka performance,
Prahallada Nataka and Temple procession,
have been used in the terminal. To fit into the
general dcor the masks have been enlarged
over the actual size, traditionally maintaining
the forms and colours. They have been
crafted in fiber glass, with rags, cloth and
paper.

BOITA BANDANA (VOYAGE TO SOUTHEAST ASIAN ISLANDS)


The mural Boita Bandana painted in the
terminal conceptualizes historical/maritime
traditions, with artistic rendering of the event
of sending off the boats from the Kalingan
coast. Womenfolk of Odisha assuming
the role of Sadhavanis (wives of sea-faring
merchants or sadhavas) and sail tiny boats
made out of solapith paper and banana stems
in the early dawn of Kartika Purnima in
the sea, rivers, ponds and water bodies. The
mural is a celebration of the great Kalingan
past which has now turned into a legend,
enriching the lives of millions of Odishan
People. The dimensions of the painting are
91 ft long & 8 ft wide, executed with acrylic
colours on canvas.

Say No, Say No To Drugs

91

Airports Authority

Excels In ANS
Text: Gp. Capt. (retd). D. C. Mehta

ANS TOWER

AI, under the dynamic


stewardship of its chairman,
Shri. VP Agrawal, has turned a
new leaf in the annals of Indian
aviation history. It has many reasons to be
proud of its achievements. I would like to
draw your attention to AAIs core business
which has two major components i.e.
development & management of airports &
airspace. The many airports of world class
standards that have since been added to the
Indian skyline in recent years as an outcome
of the modernization venture that AAI had
embarked upon, reflects the first component
of its core business. The second component
is the true lifeline of aviation and is
something akin to an Unsung Hero for it
doesnt directly come into the line of sight
of a passengers. But the long strides taken
by AAI in modernizing / upgrading CMSATM systems under the modernization plan
have now started to bear fruit, as a result of
which they stand tall in the global aviation
arena. An achievement to make India
proud.

92

Say No, Say No To Drugs

AAI bags Janes ATC Award

AAI bags two ATC Excellence


2013 Awards
After winning the Janes ATC Award last
year, this year again, Airports Authority
of India has won two prestigious ATC

Excellence Awards in the category of


Excellence in ANSP Management (outside
Europe and North America) and the
second award in the category of Strategic
Advancement in Air Transport. Both the

Upper ACC at Chennai

awards have been won after contesting with


multiple global ANSP leaders. The Strategic
Advancement in Air Transport has been
won for AAIs collaborative environment
project INSPIRE.

Mr. Somasundaram with the Strategic


Advancement in Air Transport Award

Strategic Advancement in Air


Transport Award:
The award for INSPIRE (Indian Ocean
Strategic Partnership Reduced Emission), is
a recognition of Indias ANS initiative and
commitment in establishing a collaborative
network of 16 ANSPs, 10 airlines & IATA,
dedicated to improving the environmental
efficiency and sustainability of aviation
across the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea
Region. INSPIRE, which was founded
by ANSP partners viz., AAI, Air Services
Australia and ATNS in March 2011, has
adopted and promoted best practices that
have demonstrated significant operational
efficiency and reduction in emission,
contributing to environmental protection.
The aim of the INSPIRE initiative is to
gauge the improved environmental impact
of a perfect flight, minimizing on-ground
delays using expeditious taxi routes and
runways, conducting gradual climb and
descent paths and flying direct optimum
routes (user preferred route), based on
existing meteorological and airspace
conditions.
AAIs significant lead in conducting the
user preferred route project, involving 1031
INSPIRE City-Pair flights, resulting in

carbon savings to the tune of 6885 tonnes


till 28th February, 2013, leading to muchneeded environmental protection, has
attracted world-wide acclaim. Undoubtedly,
the award for Airports Authority of India is
a fitting recognition for Indias continuing
strategic effort for a green environment
in collaboration with other ANSPs in the
region.

Excellence in ANSP
Management Award:
The Award for ANSP Excellence for AAIs
entry cruising ahead with excellence in
ANS is for the significant ANS initiatives
which AAI has taken in the recent past,

resulting in improved operational efficiency


and safety, not only in the country but
across the region as well. The entry
focused on Indias initiatives Upper
airspace harmonization, implementation
of reduced horizontal separation on
RNAV routes, reduction in separation
on major routes based on enhanced and
seamless Radar coverage, establishment
of RNAV-5 routes, continuous descent
operations in Mumbai, INSPIRE initiatives,
ADS-B Implementation, GAGAN, AIDC
implementation for automatic coordination
between ATS units and AAIs technological
leap into Central Air Traffic Flow
Management. The ANS initiatives, on a

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93

Chennai Tower with the new system

V.Somasundaram, right, Member, Air Navigation Services, AAI, New


Delhi, explaining the working of the ATS Automation System

94

conservative estimate, have resulted in total


estimated savings worth 200 million USD
and achieved reduction in carbon emission
by 510 million Kgs.
The entry has also highlighted the safety
initiative in the region through BOBASMA
(Bay of Bengal Arabian Sea Monitoring
Agency), which is entrusted with the
responsibility of safety monitoring services
in the horizontal plane in the region.
In addition to the above, another
remarkable achievement has been the recent
rating of AAI by ICAO in ABSU, wherein it
has been rated at par with FAA, the worlds
best. Undoubtedly AAI deserves all Kudos.
The coveted ATC Global Awards for AAI,
following last-years Janes International
ATC Award, are a standing testimony
to AAIs leading role in the region and
continuous excellence in Air Navigation
Services amongst the major ANSPs, in
AAIs tireless pursuit of safe, efficient and
environment-friendly aircraft operations.
This Hall Mark of ANS would aptly get
manifested in the motto, This is just
the beginning, especially taking into
consideration that commissioning of
GAGAN (GPS Aided GEO Augmented
Navigation), the Indian satellite based
navigation system & Indian version of
SBAS, is round the corner. India will not
only cover many a mile, but also, whilst
playing a pivotal role in global aviation, will
be a power to be reckoned with.

Say No, Say No To Drugs

GAGAN
coverage alongside WAAS (USA), EGNOS (Europe) and MSAS (Japan)

Airports of india

AAI

srinagar
dehradun
dibrugarh

Delhi

amritsar

patna

lucknow

jaipur

ranchi

Ahmedabad

kolkata
bhopal

mumbai

raipur

bhubaneshwar

hyderabad

goa

chennai

agatti
thiruvananathapuram

96

Bengaluru

portblair

vol I, Issue 7

April 2013

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