Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
St. Petersburg
February - March 2015
Celebrate in style
Pancakes, posies
and pampering
More than
11 years
in Russia!
inyourpocket.com
N99
Contents
Nightlife
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
35
Foreword
In the News
City Basics
Language
Features
What to see
38
38
39
40
41
42
The essentials
Modern art centres
Saints of St. Petersburg
Egypt on the Neva
Historical outskirts
Where to stay 53
Interview with concierge
54
Shopping
55
56
Russian souvenirs
58
60
62
63
Where to eat
64
24
Moscow
Vegetarian 28
Russian cuisine
34
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Foreword
In the News
Memorial to Brodsky
St. Petersburg In Your
E SPocket
S E N TI A L
founded and published
C I by
T YOOO
G Krasnaya
U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com
russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com
General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com
Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com
Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com
Sales Managers
Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com
Contributors Olivia Capozzalo, Nils Roskamp
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
No 99, 01.02.2015, 90.000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story
The egg that came first. Unlike the blingtastic creations which followed, the Hen Egg crafted by Faberg
for Alexander III as an Easter gift to the Tsarina exudes
an understated minimalism. And if you thought the
old debate was settled, think again: open up the egg,
and youll find a chicken inside
Claustrophobia
It might seem like a nightmare straight out of 1984, but
struggling to find a way out of a locked room is fast becoming one of St. Petersburgs hottest entertainment tickets.
The Claustrophobia Quest challenges guests to solve ingenious mental puzzles and work out how to escape from
a variety of themed rooms. Its a bit like an intellectual version of the classic TV show Fort Boyard, with groups of up
to four players seeking a way out from haunted houses, nuclear bunkers or medieval dungeons, among many choices.
Although the settings are designed for the Russian market,
the challenges are non-verbal, making them accessible to
anyone. The key thing is being able to communicate with
team-mates to unlock the door and escape before the time
runs out. For more information see www.phobia.ru.
About IYP
Russias first
hospitality awards
Russias much-maligned hospitality sector gets the chance
to blow its own trumpet for a change with the first ever
Russian Hospitality Awards in February 2015. The ceremony will announce the 20 best hotels in the country
in various categories. Nomination forms are available on
the Russian Hospitality Awards website, and an expert jury
will investigate what each hotel has to offer as well as considering reviews from online booking systems. This annual
award is intended to bring together leading figures in the
hospitality industry, helping to promote excellence across
the sector. The inaugural award ceremony is scheduled for
February 19 in Moscow. For more information, check out
www.hospitalityawards.ru.
Leviathan
Winner of Best Screenplay
at the 2014 Cannes Film
Festival, Best Foreign Film
at the Golden Globes, and
current Oscar nominee,
Andrey Zvyaginstevs new
film Leviathan has already gained enthusiastic
world-wide attention and
acclaim. Set to premier in
Russia on February 5, most
of the film was shot in a small town on the Kola Peninsula
on the Barents Sea. The film, whose name at least in part
references the terrifying sea monster in the book of Job,
starkly tells a story of systematic corruption, violence and
tragedy in a small town. Already considered an important
portrayal of contemporary Russia, the films international
popularity makes its premiere and reception in Russia even
more worth paying attention to, not only for the sake of the
films quality as a work of art, but for its impact as a social
phenomenon. Regular screenings with English subtitles
will take place at the Angleterre Hotel.
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
-
:
:
, 196084 -
. . 25, . .
. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
: + 7 (812) 448 88 64
:
.
16 .
,
191024, -,
. , . 17.
No26829
No. 2-6849 17.10.03
-
.
90 000 . No99.
01.02.2015
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Four times a year, all over the world, theres a really good
reason to eat out: its called Restaurant Day. Restaurant Day
is a relatively new and very exciting concept in the world
of food and dining. For one day only, anyone can open a
pop-up restaurant anywhere they want at home, at work,
in a park, on a street corner, in a courtyard, you name it. In
St. Petersburg theres a local addition to this global tradition. Several sites around the city, usually art spaces, galleries and shops are chosen each time to host amateurs
and professionals, local chefs, foodies, or just food lovers
for this one-day-only food fest. The event is the perfect opportunity to explore the city, visit places youve never seen,
and enjoy some delicious food and drink while youre at it.
www.vk.com/restaurantdayspb.
February - March 2015
Arriving in town
Arriving by bus
St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you
know where you are going before you leave.
The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of
the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is
a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town
and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.
Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya
metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into
the metro system. To find your way into the city centre
make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies
have stops at the citys main hotels. The proliferation of bus
companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you
could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.
The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest
metro station or take a taxi.
Arriving by car
Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Drivers
licence, registration and insurance documents for the car
and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At
the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is
stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled
over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is
not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by or or
) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher,
a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the
highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.
The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay
for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Public transport
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of
transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets
from the conductor or driver (28Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms
of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.
Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and
there is also the possibility of getting an independent
driver.
St. Petersburgs metro is one of the deepest in the world
and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those
on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons
of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. Its also
fast and efficient and, during peak time, you wont need
to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs
from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, youll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 31Rbl and can be bought from
the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro
lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent
stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny
Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see
the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station
announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This
can be confusing, so its best to count your stops. In rush
hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and its at this time you
can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving
and queue-cutting.
Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have
the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of
the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
TaxiS
Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a
legitimate taxi company, youll be quoted an exact price for
the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have
English-speaking operators but in many big companies
you can book a taxi online:
Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com
Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru
Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru
New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.
nyt.ru
February - March 2015
City Basics
Language
Alcohol
useful phrases
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets
if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab,
or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and
dont speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and
(+7) 812 303 05 55.
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Climate
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Money
Foreigner Prices
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
pocket dictionary:
Sosulka
What is a sosulka? A sosulka is one of those long and
beautiful and potentially lethal ice stalactites that hang
from the roofs of buildings. As the temperature rises and
falls the melting snow on rooftops (krysha) turn into different shaped sosulki. The threat to innocent passersbys
is such that the city needs to employ an army of special
kommunalshchiki (local council workers) armed with trucks,
pick axes and shovels to go up onto the citys roofs to remove them. In fact the dangerous job of icicle removing
has existed for centuries and has seen numerous casualties. Sometimes the sosulki can grow as long as two floors,
which as you can imagine is an absolutely terrifying sight,
so mind your head! The word comes from the verb sosat,
meaning to suck, which is what adventurous kids like to do
with them when their parents arent watching.
numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
adin
dva
tri
chetyre
pyat
shest
sem
vosem
devyat
desyat
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
adinatsat
dvinatsat
trinatsat
chetyrnatsat
pyatnatsat
shesnatsat
semnatsat
vosemnatsat
devyatnatsat
dvatsat
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
500
1000
tritsat
sorok
pyatdesyat
shesdesyat
semdesyat
vosemdesyat
devyanosta
sto
pyatsot
tysicha
alphabet
A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH
Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O
P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS
CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound
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Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol
-
-?
!
()
?
...?
?
!
/
?
?
?
?
-?
theatres
Alexandrinsky Theatre
QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.
Mariinsky Theatre
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.
Mikhailovsky Theatre
QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43
19, www.mikhailovsky.ru.
Saint Petersburg Opera
QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315
67 69, www.spbopera.ru.
February events
07.02 Saturday
20:00 Pilot
The Russian musical collective was created in 1997 and within
the first few months of their existence, the group released
their first album, War. Their early years of playing earned
them an avid fanbase, which has continued to grow and now
includes fans of several generations and of all different walks
of life. The band continues to tour and their music and music
videos play regularly on national radio and television channels in Russia. On February 7th, help the band celebrate their
18th birthday in the company of their fans, old and new, and
in the comfort of their home city.QE-1, Aurora Concert Hall,
Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17,
www.pilot.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl.
07.02 Saturday
20:00 Yann Tiersen
Though well known for creating the incredibly whimsical,
expressive soundtrack of the film Amelie, which brought
him global recognition, Breton musician Yann Tiersen in reality is not primarily a composer, but a musician focused on
recording and performing his music. His work incorporates
many different sounds, notably the folksy, mournful sounds
of the accordion, harpsichord and melodica. Since 1995 he
has released eight studio albums, the most recent of which,
Infinity (2014), he is currently promoting and performing
on tour. His concert in St. Petersburg promises to be, like his
music, filled with magic, mysticism and warmth.QD-1, Club
A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99
22, www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 900 - 4,700Rbl.
14.02 Saturday
19:00 Agata Kristi
Only one concert and only the best songs of their almost
30 year existence - this is what the legendary rock band
is promising their devoted fans. The group announced
their breakup in 2009 and played their last official concert
in 2010. Despite the hiatus, the loyalty of the bands fan
base has never wavered: in 2014 Russian radio listeners
voted to include five of the groups compositions on the
top 100 best Russian rock songs of all time. In the bands
own words, the February shows are not so much a reunion
for the band as a gift to its fans.QLedovy Dvorets, pr.
Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 335 75 75,
www.agata2015.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
15.02 Sunday
19:00 Astor Piazzollas Tango Passion
In honor of Valentines day, a day for expressions of love and all
things romantic, comes a show filled with heat, emotion and
passion. Created by Argentine choreographer Silvio Grand
and winners of the Campeonato Mundial de Baille de Tango
and the Tango Dance World Championship in Buenos Aires,
the performance features the music of legendary innovative
Argentine tango composer, Astor Piazzola. Musical accompaniment will be provided by the world-famous St. Petersburg
symphony orchestra IP Orchestra. The promise of the dynamism, elegance and power of true tango music and dance
make this truly a show not to be missed.QE-3, Oktyabrsky
Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl.
A SANCTUARY
OF SERENITY
AND SENSES
22.02 Sunday
19:00 Emir Kusturica and Goran Bregovic
After a many-year break, two of the biggest names in Balkan music and culture are collaborating once again. Kusturica, Serbian filmmaker, actor and musician and Bregovic,
a Bosnian-born musician, first collaborated in the late 1980s
to mid-90s, when Bregovic composed the soundtracks for
three of Kusturicas films. As a celebratory concert surprise
for Petersburg concertgoers, the pair will be joined on stage
by world-fusion music ensemble Mostar Sevdah Reunion,
who play traditional folk music from Bosnia and Herzegovina, fused with different contemporary music styles. The
night promises to be filled with joyful reunions and Balkan
beats.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky
pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.
goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl.
23.02 Monday
19:00 Dina Garipova
As first place winner of the 2012 Russian Voice competition
and Russian representative at the 2013 Eurovision in Malmo,
Sweden, Dina Garipova has already become a beloved star
of Russian pop. At her solo concert this February, her awardwinning voice will be accompanied by a symphony orchestra,
conducted by Roman Leontiev. The concert will showcase
not only her well-known hits, including What if, but also
her debut album Two Steps to Love. In commemoration of
the holiday and in honor of all Defenders of the Fatherland,
Garipova will perform the famous patriotic march from 1912,
Proshchanie slavyanki.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert
Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13
00, www.dinagaripova.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
International Festival
Triumph of Jazz
20.02 friday, 19:00
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the festival Triumph of Jazz, hosted by reknowned jazz saxophonist,
Igor Butman. The festival will run for three days in St.
Petersburg and Moscow and kicks of in St. Petersburg
with three exciting headliners from the States: legendary jazz collective the Yellowjackets, whove been
playing together for more than 30 years, trumpet player and five-time Grammy winner Terence Blanchard
and his band E-collective, and a project by the jazz
vocalist Lisa Henry, accompanied by the great Oleg
Butman Trio.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921 369 72 78, www.jazztriumph.ru.
Tickets 650 - 3,500Rbl.
11
28.02 Saturday
19:00 De Phazz
Berlin-based sound collective De Phazz combines an electronic, synthesizer-heavy sound with lounge, jazz, latin
beats and breakbeat rhythyms of trip hop. The groups
founder is German producer Pit Baumgartner, who has
brought together different musicians to make each of
the bands albums. One of the regulars, however, is Pat
Appleton, who provides the collectives lyrics and sultry
lead vocals. The collective will play in St. Petersburg on the
very last day of winter. Their show, which includes new
interpretations of their most well-known compositions, in
Appletons own words promises to rekindle the flame of
love in the hearts of viewers.QD-2, Music Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50,
www.dephazz.com. Tickets 400 - 5,000Rbl.
Robbie Williams
09.04 Thursday, 20:00
Robbie Williams is making his first ever visit to
the northern capital.
The British pop star
first began his musical career in 1990 as
the youngest member
of the boy band Take
That. He left the band in
1995 and launched his
solo career soon after,
which transformed him
into the living pop legend he is today. He is currently
the best selling British solo artist in the UK and the
most successful British solo performer in the history
of world pop. His current tour, Let Me Entertain You,
is named after the legendary song of his career, first
released in 1997.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.robbiewilliams.
com. Tickets 3,000 - 20,000Rbl.
03.03 Tuesday
19:00 Glenn Millers Sun Valley Serenade
Based on the classic 1941 film of the same name, director-producer Igor Illarionov has created a lively musical show filled
with adventure, comedy and romance. As in the original film,
the music of Glenn Miller plays a major role in the story. But
this time, in lieu of the man himself and his legendary Orchestra on screen, audiences are given a chance to experience
the vibrancy and swing of his music live on stage. The show
features the St. Petersburg Brass Orchestra, as well as winners
of the International New Wave competition and leading
members of the St. Petersburg Theatre of Musical Comedy.
QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921
369 72 78, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.
06.03 Friday
20:00 Julio Iglesias
The best selling Latin music artist in history, Spanish singer songwriter Julio
Iglesias is truly a legend.
In his over 45-year musical
career, Iglesias has released
80 albums and sold more
than 300 million records
worldwide. At his concerts,
Iglesias heartfelt lyrics and
powerful voice create a welcoming, romantic atmosphere; he seems to be singing at the
same time for everyone present and for each listener individually. The singer himself describes his music as an overflowing
and outpouring of inner passion that he feels compelled to
share with the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall,
Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.julioiglesias.com. Tickets 4,000 - 12,000Rbl.
10.03 Tuesday
19:00 Crowbar
Hailing from the great New
Orleans, Louisiana, Crowbar is a well-known pioneer of the sludge metal
genre, which originated
primarily in the Crescent
City in the mid-1980s. The
genre itself is a combination of doom metal, hardcore punk and elements
of Southern Rock. Crowbar has been playing under its current name since 1991,
though guitarist and vocalist Kirk Windstein has been
playing with some form of the band since 1988. The band
released their latest album, Symmetry in Black, in 2014.
This March, they bring their slow, brooding, vicious sound
to Russia for the first time.QD-2, Mod Club, nab. kan. Griboedova 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www.
facebook.com/crowbarmusic. Tickets from 1,000Rbl.
18.03 Wednesday
19:00 Thirty Seconds to Mars
30 Seconds to Mars is a tight-knit group; the band consists of the two brothers Jared and Shannon Leto, who cofounded the band in 1998, and lead guitarist since 2003,
Tomo Milicevic. Its been noted that each of the bands
four studio albums are unique, distinct creations, in terms
of sound, approach and style. Generally known as an alternative rock band, these musicians are true masters of
experimentation. Not only do they produce progressive
sounds, but theyre also committed to global environmental and humanitarian activism. But perhaps what makes
them stand out the most is their honest devotion to their
fans.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812
703 40 40, www.thirtysecondstomars.com. Tickets
1,800 - 6,000Rbl.
11.03 Wednesday
20:00 Tango Pasion
This incredibly ambitious
project was the brainchild
of a small team in 1982,
including choreographer
Hector Zaraspe and producer Mel Howard, and has
since become a celebrated
Broadway show, traveled
the world and introduced
the fine art of tango to
many countries. More than
a dance or musical show, this project is something of a
spectacle, combining every style of Argentine tango, from
the most traditional to the far less known. The music will
be performed by the Latin Grammy winning ensemble,
the Sexteto Mayor Orchestra.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)
812 303 33 33, www.tangopasion.com. Tickets 1,000 3,000Rbl.
14.03 Saturday
20:00 Chizh and Co
Whether it was with friends at the dacha or during the
long months of army service, many Russians have memories of singing and listening to the songs of Russian rock
band Chizh and Co. The bands lyrical songs are beloved
all over the country and appreciated for their folk music
qualities. Playing since the early 90s, the groups leader,
Sergei Chigrakov, or Chizh, is known for his musical talent
and flexibility. The band plays rock, blues and folk rock and
in 2004, Chizh himself even collaborated and performed
with American blues musicians in Boston and New York.
QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTechnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
chizh.net. Tickets 1,300 - 4,500Rbl.
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20.03 Friday
20:00 Stereoleto Club: Metronomy
British electropop band Metronomy began some time in
the late 1990s (officially in 1999) when front man Joseph
Mount was a teenager experimenting with an old computer. Mount released his debut album in 2005. The band
gained and changed membership changed over the years
and in 2011 they released the much-celebrated album
The English Riviera. This past March, the band released
another album, Love Letters, which continues their tradition of making music that is laconic and witty, funny yet
poignant. This spring, they will perform as part of the Stereoleto Club, a special offshoot session of the much loved
summer festival.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.metronomy.
co.uk. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.
13
Exhibitions
cinema
If you are looking for a night at the movies without
having to play some sophisticated form of charades
to work out whats going on - we have good news for
you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show
movies in English or their original language. If you are
looking for a truly English experience you cant pass
up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows
all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula
Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora.
Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect
to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if
you want to chill out with a good movie in English or
practice one of your other languages, check out these
cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.
Angleterre Cinema Lounge
QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www.
angleterrecinema.ru.
Avrora
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942
80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.
Dom Kino
QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.
Formula Kino Galeria
QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www.
formulakino.ru.
14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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Ball of Robots
15
Erarta exhibitions
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17
Feature
Features
February is the coldest month in Russia, and after three or
four months of dark days and cloudy weather, we all need
a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty
of reasons to gather together with friends and celebrate life
in general. The season kicks off in romantic style with Valentines Day, a time for couples to celebrate their love and for
singles to make the most of being single. This is followed
nine days later by Defender of the Fatherland day, a great
excuse for the girls to celebrate the courage and fearlessness of their man, and for the lads to get together and just
celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of
stories they wouldnt dare tell the girls, brave as they are.
If and when you survive these two celebrations, its time
to kick back and relax with a pancake or five through the
week of Maslenitsa, and once this marathon effort is over,
youre ready for The Big One International Womens Day.
Roses are red, violets are blue, if you dont buy her flowers,
thats the end of you
Valentines Day
CELEBRATING
RUSSIAS WINTER
As you still reel from the festive onslaught
of Christmas, New Year, Christmas again - oh,
and Old New Year - Russia steps in with the
jab, uppercut and haymaker of Maslenitsa,
Defenders Day and Womens Day. Read our
guide to the pre-Spring holiday season, and
you may not need to throw in the towel.
Seconds out, round two...
18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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seem terribly conducive to the whispering of sweet nothings, but its a pretty quick way to fall into your lovers arms.
There are a lot of ice rinks set up in most parks around town
so you dont have to look hard for somewhere to lace up
those skates. After skating we recommend a mug of warm
spicy mulled wine in a cosy bar.
The islands to the north of the city offer miles of relaxed
wandering. Kamenny Ostrov (Stone Island) with its exclusive houses and manicured lawns is a lovely quiet spot.
Elagin Island offers uninterrupted strolling amidst natural
forest free from the usual city distractions, in fact its easy
to feel that youve left the city altogether. Here you can also
visit the ornate Elagin Palace, the first architectural project
completed by Carlo Rossi, and on weekends outside you
can often hear swing or jazz music coming from the parks
loudspeakers, or a live band striking up a tune. So if anyone
feels like dancing
No romantic city guide would be complete without mentioning Potseluyev Most, or the Bridge of Kisses. Considered
the most romantic of all bridges in the city, it crosses the
Moika Canal near pl. Truda and ul. Glinki. The word on the
street is that whoever should kiss while standing on the
bridge will stay with that person forever and have a happy
and harmonious marriage. Like all urban legends, however,
how true this one is remains to be seen, but it remains a
popular place for men to propose marriage. We have heard
that the name of the bridge comes from the man who
owned the pub on the corner of ul. Glinki, but Landlords
Bridge just doesnt have the same ring to it.
At the end of the day, it doesnt matter where you are - in
such a romantic city as this, a metro platform, the bread
aisle in the supermarket, even the produkty shop on the
corner can become unexpected hidden pockets of romance. Other romantic spots include the observation
platform at the top of Smolny Cathedral (a great place to
smoulder away with a fine view of the cityscape below),
a stroll through the Summer Gardens or even a trip to the
Mariinsky. Go on, dont be shy
19
Features
Wait For Me by
Konstantin Simonov
Wait for me, and Ill come back!
Wait with all youve got!
Wait, when dreary yellow rains
Tell you, you should not.
Wait when snow is falling fast,
Wait when summers hot,
Wait when yesterdays are past,
Others are forgot.
Wait, when from that far-off place,
Letters dont arrive.
Wait, when those with whom you wait
Doubt if Im alive.
Wait for me, and Ill come back!
Wait in patience yet
When they tell you off by heart
That you should forget.
Even when my dearest ones
Say that I am lost,
Even when my friends give up,
Sit and count the cost,
Drink a glass of bitter wine
To the fallen friend Wait! And do not drink with them!
Wait until the end!
Wait for me and Ill come back,
Dodging every fate!
What a bit of luck! theyll say,
Those that did not wait.
They will never understand
How amidst the strife,
By your waiting for me, dear,
You had saved my life.
How I made it, we shall know,
Only you and I.
You alone knew how to wait We alone know why!
Konstantin Simonov said
of his own masterpiece,
There is no special story
to Wait for me. I was just
going to war, and the
woman I loved was staying behind. And I wrote
her a letter in verse. Yet
the words that follow
were to be engraved in the hearts of countless Russians during the Great Patriotic War: it was cut out of
the paper, copied out, learned by heart, and sent back
in letters to wives and sweethearts. Not even originally intended for publication, in the history of Russian poetry it would be hard to find a poem which
had such an impact.
20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Features
Maslenitsa
Russian Women
Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been absorbed into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of
winter and the arrival of spring. Running from February 16th
to the 22nd, and known in other countries as Mardi Gras or
Carnival, In Russia it celebrates the last week before Lent with a
massive, knock-down drag-out pancake-fest designed to carb
load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of abstinence. On
the last day of Maslenitsa, theres usually a union of pagan and
Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter
is set ablaze with true mediaeval pyromaniac glee.
Defender of the
Fatherland Day
Defender of the Fatherland Day (it sounds just as longwinded in Russian) was originally a holiday to commemorate the
formation of the Red Army in 1918, and is still celebrated
in many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known
as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend
for changing Soviet names, although its most commonly
known simply as Mens Day. Although technically it is still
a military holiday, its also a public holiday, so all men are
celebrated, whether theyve ever worn khaki or not, and
has in effect become the male counterpart (or perhaps
pale shadow) of International Womens Day. February
23rd is therefore accompanied by a host of beer and other
alcohol-related festivals to help the day go with a bang.
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Olga of Kiev
A convert to Christianity at
least 30 years before Kiev
Rus followed suit, Olga was,
by all accounts, not someone to be trifled with. In
945, her husband Igor, son
of Rurik, was killed by the
Drevlians while attempting to collect tribute it
was apparently the second
collection within a month,
hence their ire. In response, Olga had various Drevlian envoys buried or burned alive, before inviting another 5,000 to
a feast, who were also slaughtered. She then sent an army
to raze their city to the ground with the aid of we kid you
not incendiary-equipped birds. Most likely of Varangian
descent, her name is a derivation of the Old Norse Helga,
meaning holy, and is of course still in common use today.
Upon conversion to Christianity she took the name Elena,
and ruled as regent until her son, Svyatoslav the Brave,
reached maturity in 963. In fact she ran domestic matters for
a good few years after that, as Svyatoslav was much happier
waging war on neighbouring fiefdoms. Mindful no doubt
of her husbands fate, Olga made changes to the tribute system in accordance with which appointed officials, and not
the ruler himself, did the collecting. She is thus credited with
making the first recorded legal reform in Eastern Europe.
Nadezhda Durova
The daughter of a Russian
army officer, Nadezhda Durova was raised in the care of
her fathers subordinates following a near-death experience in her early years when
her unstable mother, who
had wanted a son, snatched
her from the arms of her
nanny and threw her out
of the window of a moving
carriage. It is said that her favourite childhood toy was a gun,
and she wrote in her own memoir The Cavalry Maiden that
her first cradle was a horses saddle. The call of the army did
not leave Durova when her father retired, and in 1807 she absconded from home, disguised herself as a boy and joined up,
fighting with distinction in the Prussian campaign of 1806-7.
When she finally wrote home from the front, her family used
their connections to try to locate her, and word that a woman
was serving in the Imperial Army eventually reached an intrigued Alexander I. When she was summoned to court, Durova so impressed the Tsar that he awarded her the Cross of
St George and promoted her to the rank of lieutenant. In 1812
she saw action at both Smolensk and Borodino, sustaining a
leg injury at the latter from a cannonball. The Cavalry Maiden,
considered one of the earliest autobiographies written in Russian, may never have come to light at all had Durova not been
persuaded many years later to publish her war diaries by a
certain Alexander Pushkin.
February - March 2015
21
Features
Features
Alexandra Kollontai
Anna Pavlova
Marina Raskova
Born in Ligovo, St. Petersburg in 1881, Anna Pavlovas passion for ballet
was ignited at an early age
when her mother took her
to see Sleeping Beauty at
the Mariinsky. Perhaps best
known for her creation of
the Dying Swan, Pavlovas
rise was by no means a
steady one, and it was only
her extraordinary dedication that enabled la petite sauvage to become one of the greatest prima ballerinas of
the 20th century. Her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world, in fact it is said that no dancer,
before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles
in 15 years. In order to better support her frail, rigid feet,
Pavlova added a wooden block to her ballet shoes in what
was considered a cheat at the time, but gave rise to the
now universal pointe shoe. She moved to London in 1912,
where she went on to become a major force in the development of British ballet. In 1931 Pavlova contracted pneumonia while on tour in The Hague, refusing a remedial
operation that might have meant she would never dance
again. Succumbing to pleurisy shortly afterwards, her last
words were said to be Get my Swan costume ready.
Sofia Tolstaya
Behind every great man,
and all that, but this literary giants devoted spouse
must really be put in a category of one. If you want
evidence, look no further
than the fact that she is
said to have copied out
and edited the manuscript of War and Peace
not once, but seven times.
Sofia was introduced to her husbands writings at an early
stage in their relationship: on the eve of their wedding he
is said to have given her his diairies, which detailed, among
other things, his idiscretions with female serfs, one of
whom had borne him a child. Undeterred (although presumably more than a little miffed), Sofia added another 13
official offspring to the Tolstoy total, although only eight
were to survive childhood. Tolstaya can also lay claim to
being one of historys first social photocorrespondents,
having taken up photography in 1887: she left a collection
of over 1000 photographs depicting not only her husband
and life on the Yasnaya Polyana estate, but also more generally the last days of tsarist Russia. She also left her diaries,
and a memoir simply entitled My Life. Sofias 48-year marriage ended on a sour note: after continual conflict over
Toltsoys stated determination to relinquish all his worldly
possessions, Leo abruptly left his wife at the age of 82, and
died less than two weeks later.
22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Marina Tsvetaeva
Valentina Tereshkova
Not only the first woman
but also, as her enrolment
in the Soviet Air Force was
purely a formality for her
to officially become a cosmonaut, the first civilian in
space, Valentina Tereshkova
is the first great woman on
our list to still be alive today.
A textile worker by trade, it
was her weekend hobby,
skydiving, that led to her advancement into the fledgling
Soviet space programme. Selected from over 400 applicants, Tereshkova blasted off on her first (and only) flight on
16 June 1963, completing 48 earth orbits in just under three
days, in the process notching up more space time than the
entire US manned space programme had up to that point. Ha!
Tereshkovas post-cosmic career took her first into engineering, thence into politics, where she became a high-ranking
member of the Supreme Soviet and the Central Committee.
Nor did her star fade with the collapse of the Soviet Union
Tereshkova remains a revered figure in Russian public life, and
was one of the flag-carriers at the opening ceremony of the
2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. At one time a member of the
research team looking into the feasibility of going to Mars, in
2013 Tereshkova, then 76, was quoted as saying that shed still
be prepared to go, even if it ended up being a one-way trip.
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Sofia Kovalevskaya
23
Where to eat
Where to eat
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and
fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian
to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure
to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
- 0 - 400Rbl
400 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,200Rbl
1,200Rbl plus
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
Idiot
With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy
antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material
in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the
atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional
Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food
and a reasonable kids menu. However many people come
to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink.
Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka,
while the cordial English speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu.QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . PTASW
Khutor Vodograi
A consummately presented restaurant features an enormous tree inside, lovely whitewashed walls and dark
beams that recreate the feel of a Ukrainian village house.
They offer an extensive menu of authentic treats to
tempt any palate. Try the home-made sausages and the
black bread with salo, the traditional Ukrainian delicacy
made from salt-cured pig fat.QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 57 37, www.vodograi.ru.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. . PTAULEGSW
NEP
NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy
and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back,
order your meal and be enthralled by the music, often
featuring a charming, personality-packed star singer. They
offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If youre sitting close to the
performers, it is likely youll find yourself part of the nights
entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. .
PTALEGSW
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1
Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust
kind of a place where working men wash down cheap
vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-sicle
inspired place is as far away from that kind of establishment as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars,
complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic
dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have
possibly the biggest vodka list weve ever seen, as well as
a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.
ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. .
PTAUEGSW
Tsar
Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel
like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal
glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and
the toilets are even encased inside giant, leather-lined
Cardamon
Located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg, this gem of Indian cuisine
still has yet to be fully discovered. The warm-coloured
decor features Indian tapestries on the walls and painted
tile detail. The delicious naan, a puffed Indian bread, and
crispy poppadom are definitely worth sampling and go
well with any dish on the menu. Ravi, originally from
India and a long time resident in St. Petersburg, runs
the show around here and is determined to make it a
great success. Food-wise, hes got everything right. We
havent yet tried anything from the additional selection
of Russian dishes on the menu, but as far as Indian food
goes, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2,
1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313
38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
PTAVGSW
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25
Where to eat
Where to eat
Beer Restaurants
Curry House
Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta
took the courage to open his own Curry House in the
Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry
House is a perfect addition to the citys food scene, serving food from all parts of India. The menu is extensive
and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa,
Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated
chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers
a wide variety of vegetarian dishes. More good news is
the restaurants great location: basically next door to the
Mariinsky, its a perfect spot to spice things up before a
performance!QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PTAVGSW
Dve Palochki
This chain of superior Japanese restaurants is practically ubiquitous around the city, especially in the centre. Luckily, the
restaurants high level of service and comfort is also standard
across the board. The menu includes traditional sushi rolls,
soups and teas. We love the atlantic rolls (salmon, philadelphia and eel) as well as the wonderful spread of baked rolls
- we recommend the crab rolls with hot shitake mushroom
sauce. The unique restrooms are still a bit of a mystery; two
toilets in one cubicle - whats that about? With more than
24 locations in the city, including ul. Italianskaya 6 (metro
Nevsky pr.), its almost difficult not to conveniently run across
one during your stay in St. Petersburg.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 02 22, www.dvepalochki.
ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00. . PTAVSW
Tandoor
Situated mere steps from St. Isaacs cathedral, Tandoor is
about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.
For 19 years now theyve been serving up real, authentic
Indian fare and have won numerous best restaurant prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you
can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst
mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan
bread. With two spacious rooms, this place is ideal for dining in large groups.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PTAGSW
Bierstube
Serving beer from their own brewery, the Marriotts
Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are
looking for some delicious local brews. Choose from
a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony
or inside the wood and stucco-decorated centre of
the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer
snacks like fried calamari and cheese sticks before
the main events, Bavarian and Czech-inspired meaty
heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk
down the canal from the metro station means youll
have a chance to walk off all the calories after.QC-4,
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West
Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance
via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812
610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
. PTAULGSW
Birreria
Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passazh
shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view of
the beautiful Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. Its a great
place to stop by with friends, watch a game or drink a few
beers and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu
offers classic Italian favourites that are worth every rouble.
Service is good and unobtrusive and the beer selection is
enough to put anyone in a good mood, so youre bound
to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3,
Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
943 60 04, www.birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. .
PTAGSW
Dickens
This island of British culture, located near the Fontanka
river, has beer from all around the world, including
more than ten on tap, as well a good selection of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the
chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge
portions. Dont forget to try the breakfast here - its a
great hangover cure and really authentically British.
Dickens offers a pub atmosphere, as close to a real British pub as youll find in Russia, and also features a fine
dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky
Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63,
www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. . PAGSW
KwakInn
Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere
and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the longgone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude
that says - settle in, were all friends here. This tiny, bright
basement pub (the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what
should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by
cosy booths with the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian
frittes alone are worth the journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr.
37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.
kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
. PAGSW
Palm Belgian Brasserie
Located smack in the centre of the city, just off Nevsky, the
Palm is a convenient and comfortable place, notably if you
appreciate beer and comfort food. Their bottled Trappist
beer selection is impressive and the Whitte Trappist we
tried on tap was excellent. If youre looking for something
satisfying and Belgian to snack on, make sure to order one
of their Belgian waffles with your choice of sweet or savory
toppings. As a plus, their coffee is, perhaps surprisingly for
a low-key beer restaurant, also truly delicious.QD-2, Bol.
Konyushennaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
81 51, www.palminspb.ru. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 06:00. . PAS
Caucasian
Baklazhan
The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism
seems to be the mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist
at Baklazhan (Aubergine) is in the touches of deep purple,
the wine bottles lining the walls and a sort of market stall
selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself
is standard Georgian fare sprinkled with a few innovative
dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and youll be treated to piping hot goodness thatll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria
Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
+7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00
until last guest. . PTAULVEGSW
Kriek Brasserie
With five boutique beers on tap, including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a
place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach.
If youre dreaming of a glass of cold, sweet cherry beer
paired with Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the
answer to your prayers. Also at Italyanskaya ul. 17 (metro
Nevsky pr.).QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30. . PAGSW
Khochu Kharcho
Khochu Kharcho! is Russian for I want Kharcho! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew with mutton/lamb,
vegetables, rice in a highly spiced broth. Here they serve
three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth
trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a
Georgian restaurant, its a Megrelian restaurant and there
is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the
western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other
must-try dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian
khachapuri and the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken
stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. .
PTALVESW
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27
Where to eat
Vegetarian
Vegetarianism appeared
in Russia in the 14th century through the followers of the Lenten mode
of life. In the beginning
of the 20th century St.
Petersburg had a blooming vegetarian culture.
However, the revolution
of 1917 stopped all that as it was considered to be a
reflection of bourgeois ideology. Nowadays its again
slowly becoming popular. While your friends may think
that eating only potatoes and mushrooms for a couple
of weeks will do, for a pleasant meat free stay in St. Petersburg you need more nutrition.
Botanika
Excellent vegetarian food including outstanding salads
(try the tabouleh), great pasta and filling soups. Reminiscent of a Victorian dining parlour with greenery scattered with a touch of a 70s wholefood cafe. The interior
sports three calming tones of green, there are pumpkins
and flowers strewn around and the sofas are soft.QE-2,
Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272
70 91, www.cafebotanika.ru. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. . PTAGSW
Kashmir
Dont come here expecting your classical Indian cuisine.
Its far too hippy for that. They do esoteric Indian vegetarian fare, complete with fresh fruit garnish though
dill also seems to be considered a staple here, as does
a cucumber and tomato array that is often quite out of
place. Theyve got samosas and dahl, raita, soy steaks
and a lot of dishes we cant pronounce.QE-3, Bol. Moskovskaya ul. 7, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 575 63
69, www.chainiydom.ru/cafe/kashmir. Open 11:00
until last guest. . PAVEGSW
Ukrop
This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and
grab a healthy meal that wont break the bank. On the
first floor there is a counter where you can order already
prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a
full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing
atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The
friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each
guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian,
vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who
are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored
pencils that sit on each table! Also at Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 14.QE-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. Open 09:00 23:00. . PTALGSW
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Mamalyga
Just a stones throw from Nevsky, this restaurant offers you
an assortment of food from the Caucasus region, including Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian,
and the cuisine of Swaneti and Guria. Authenticity is a
word that the owners use quite often to describe their
food and it comes through in the food that is prepared
by local (to the region) cooks. The menu features a mix of
well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashliks, salads, khachapuri, and pretty much
anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PTAVGSW
European
Fartuk
Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (Russian for apron) is one of those
charming family-run places that make you want to return
again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table
and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre
of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone, which
is enhanced by the welcoming and attentive wait staff.
The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on
Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks make
excellent refreshments.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 11:00
until last guest. . PTAGSW
Kroo Cafe
Its always nice to see new places appear in central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the
proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Sad, Kroo Cafe
serves breakfasts beginning at 8:30 and keeps on going
into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their
French chef, who is keen on buying his own products at
the market, ensuring the freshness of his ingredients.
Topped off by friendly and smiling servers, Kroo Cafe is
sure not to disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www.kroocafe.com.
Open 08:30 - 00:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PTASW
Let it bar
A little off the beaten track, Let it Bar is a subterranean bar
with a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant
and friendly, although the service is a little slow. The interior
consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, and plastered white walls. A walk-in
fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array of
food and provides a splash of colour in the space. Let it Bar
offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with friends,
but it has little to make it stand out from the crowd.QE-3,
Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 32
46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. . PSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Moskva
This restaurants rooftop location, on the 6th floor of the
upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a well-dressed crowd of
wealthier diners looking to soak up the coveted view. The
interior is done out in various shades of cream with comfortable furniture in muted colours. Potted plants brighten
the place up, as does bowls of fresh fruit at the open,
central cooking stations. Another member of the Ginza
Project family, the kitchen keeps high standards: while the
menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe
with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains
- the food is definitely well-made.QE-3, Nevsky Centre
Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00
- 01:00. . PTALVSW
Mozhno
Enter this whimsically decorated space and prepare to be
transported to a new kind of dining experience. The menu
is designed according to the diet principles of French nutritionist, Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting customers
can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not be
disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of
classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well
as beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole
grain purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged
and amply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul. Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
926 26 16, www.mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
PASW
PirO.G.I. na Vosstaniya
Open 24 hours a day, this place is dedicated to music lovers
around the clock: there are DJ sets at night and the sounds
of French chanson or retro can be heard by day. The food
is simple, well-made and inexpensive. Its a great place to
stop in for lunch - they have very reasonably priced lunch
specials every day - and the extensive menu includes all
kinds of comfort food at any time of day, such as Beef Stroganoff with mashed potatoes, salads, pastas, dumplings
and more. While youre waiting for your food, you can
check out the walls, which are covered with the photos of
celebrities, or watch a silent film, usually being projected
on one of the walls.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 72 15, www.piterogi.ru.
Open 24hrs. . PAESW
Sunduk
Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly
packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively
atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly
running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a
great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. A dinner at Sunduk can
turn into an entire evening of good company, and good
music.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. . PAGSW
Vinostudia
This sleek, understated wine bar offers an open yet comfortably intimate space to enjoy a drink and/or meal. The interior
features a deft combination of high, beautifully vaulted ceilings, minimalist seating (as well as a few plush couches) and
a tasteful sprinkling of 1960s mod photography. They have
a well-selected list of very reasonably priced wines by the
glass, including a Bio Organic wine from France, and a much
more extensive bottle list. Plus, if youre in the mood for
something a bit more substantial to accompany your beverage, there is a full, though modest, dinner menu.QD-2,
Bol. Konuyshennaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 931
62 28, www.vinostudia.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. . PASW
Fine dining
Soup Wine
Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this
sleek and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the
place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups
and salads, but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta
and wine and huge salads that come in bowls piled
high with green leaves. Given the restaurants size and
how easy it is to sit and linger, listening to the operatic
soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book a table in advance.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
PAGSW
Astoria Caf
Breathe history while dining at the newly renovated, freshly
decorated Astoria Caf. The hotel in which this restaurant is
located has seen over a century of history. This history can
be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior
and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect relaxed lunch or dinner after
roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes,
especially their Pavlova dessert, which is named after the
famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light
that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the
windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaacs Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. . PTAUEGW
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29
Where to eat
Where to eat
the vessels heritage. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice
in such a venue and certainly doesnt disappoint and the
wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages. Fantastic food with inimitable views of the Venice of the North
makes this place one of the citys most desirable eateries.
QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812
313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last
guest. . PTALEGSW
LEurope
Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in
the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europes crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own,
the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco
stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are
made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of
the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the egg in an egg
(a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon
caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the
wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise
for the taste buds. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform
Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples.
Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open
07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings everyday 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz
Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. . PTALEGSW
Palkin
Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back
to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior
is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times,
which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a
meal in some rich aristocrats home. The menu is bursting
with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar
and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes
from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course
special menu with specially selected wines, themed
around a different wine-growing region of the world.
Booking in advance is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr.
47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PTAEGSW
The Flying Dutchman
At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy
Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views
of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the
rivers banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly
opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes
three different restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant
Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is
every bit the classy berth you would expect, where the
sharp modern interior doesnt completely detract from
30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Victoria
A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious,
yet classic Russian dishes that are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace
or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt
and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both
body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish
and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top
of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also available.QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel,
Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99
11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
. PTALEGSW
International
Arka
The soft lighting, exposed brick and sky-lights create a
chic, yet cosy ambience where you can sit and forget about
life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection
of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with
friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going
out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that
are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes
prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino
mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open until
06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared
to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave
with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 339 89 39, www.arka.spb.
ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. . PAEGSW
Deti Raika
St. Petersburgs fashionable ulitsa Rubinshteina offers a real
plethora of trendy dens for artistic types, and the new St.
Petersburg branch of Moscows prosperous Deti Raika is certainly up there with the best of them. Taking its name from
the owners favourite film, the 1945 Enfants du Paradis, the
venues high ceilings, elegant furniture and beautifully panelled floor would fit right in as an atmospheric black and
white French film still. A wealthy array of cocktails adds to the
effortless class of your surroundings, and with a menu that
includes salads, sandwiches, soups, pizza, pasta and more,
it seems nothing has been overlooked.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 20 37, www.
detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. . TAEGSW
Gosti
Dining in this continental restaurant is a bit like going to
your provincial grannys cottage. That is, If your granny has
as much culinary taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of
the rooms has plenty of mismatched floral patterns, books
and decorative odds and ends on the walls, but the effect is
homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly
and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas
and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes
allude again to the generosity of granny and can be easily
shared.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Open 12:00
until last guest. . PTAVEGSW
Geografia
As you might have guessed from the restaurants name, the
menu includes cuisine from all around the world. Here you
can enjoy the best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam,
Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single
dish can be really tricky. But eating is only half the pleasure
at Georgafia; the restaurant takes great pride in its cocktails,
offering more than 40 original concoctions that are aimed to
make you cast away any preconceived ideas about matching
food and drink. If making a choice is too difficult, ask one of
the servers and they will be happy to be your guide on this
exotic holiday.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PTAEGSW
Mansarda
Turn into the building signposted with Gazproms headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly
sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six
floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome
of St. Isaacs Cathedral. The interior is understated and the
glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which its
served and shouldnt disappoint even the most discerning
guests. Classic European tastes dominate, though Asian
influences are also given some attention and the fresh fish
based dishes in particular come highly recommended.QC3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 until
last guest. . PTALVEGSW
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Bolshaya Kukhnya
Bolshaya Kukhnya (Big Kitchen) is a huge panorama
restaurant located in the Galeria shopping centre, just a
stones throw away from Moskovsky train station. The
name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up
to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups
of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu of more
than 150 dishes from around the world. Among them
head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents pastas and pizzas,
burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more.
The little ones have their very own menu in their very own
restaurant. After filling their little bellies they can enjoy
a fun, exciting and educational entertainment program
while their parents relax in peace.QE-3, Galeria Shopping
Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
984 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . PTAULEGSW
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31
Where to eat
MarketPlace in Galeria
For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace, a
new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Galleria
shopping mall. The restaurant features an open kitchen,
where you can watch cooks prepare dishes from all over
the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired by their travels
all over the globe, have attempted to re-create the bustling,
aromatic atmosphere of a market, where food is quickly
made and reasonably priced, with the comforts and quality
of a high-end restaurant. The food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurants interior is constructed only from
eco-friendly materials, including wood, ceramic and brick
detail. The space is designed for guests to sit comfortably,
sipping a glass of wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the
MarketPlace magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.marketplace.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Myzhenaty
Another of ulitsa Rubinshteinas hip hideaways, the cafe
Myzhenatys translation we are married perhaps refers
to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of
tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves,
where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimalist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential coffees or juices to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich.
The venue gets a thumbs up for not trying too hard for
flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary
library-like setting where you can gather with friends for
a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle
down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. . PAGSW
PMI Bar
The eminent PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic building on the Moika. The bar is located
on the first floor, and features a menu of hand-crafted
cocktails, created by the citys best bartenders. On the
second and third floors, youll find the restaurant zone
and enoteca. Celebrated Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky
has created a small specialty menu and the carefully put
together wine list boasts the best selections of light and
32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
fresh European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar invites
popular DJs to perform and stars all over the world are
known to stop by before and after their concerts. The
bar also often hosts tours of the most notable chefs from
around the world. But dont let that intimidate you. At
PMI, a friendly and relaxing atmosphere is king.QD-2,
Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07
10, www.pmibar.com. Open 12:00 until last guest.
. PAESW
Schastye na Nevskom
Schastye or Happiness is a cosy place in the centre
where you can eat well and take a break from the hustle
and bustle of everyday life. The chef is inspired by his
culinary excursions around the world (the most recent
one was to New York) and uses an interesting mix of ingredients to make his creations. The interior is warmed
by soft light and minty tones which create for a laid back
and casual atmosphere. The menu is filled with balanced
breakfasts which can be ordered at any time, soups,
creative main dishes, and a wide range of desserts and
sweets. Also at Mal. Morskaya ul. 24 and ul. Rubinshteina
15/17.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
328 85 55, www.schastye.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. .
PTAGSW
Stroganoff Steakhouse
If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse,
perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure
to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers
lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing
compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main
attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on
the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak
event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.stroganoffsteakhouse.
ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. . PTAUVEG
SW
Zig Zag
Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to
grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre of the city,
this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. Its
not exactly easy to find, but once youre there you cant
help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space
feels like youve travelled in a time machine back to the
1960s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with
such cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents
as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled
beet-root and other vegetables, off of which they produce themselves. All these things are well prepared and
presented and the menu also includes burgers and finger
foods, such as devilled eggs and fried green beans, which
are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar
also offers interesting cocktails and irresistible desserts,
which are definitely worth trying.QD-3, Gorokhovaya
ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00, www.
zigzag.spb.ru/english/index.php. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
. PTAULEGSW
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Italian
Borsalino
For years Borsalinos Italian head chef has made this restaurant a destination for tourists and residents alike. Their
menu features simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared
and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavours from
regions all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service and a regularly changing seasonal menu
would be more than enough to satisfy even without the
amazing views of St. Isaacs square. Their buffet business
lunch is also a bargain, as is their breakfast menu.QD-3,
Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com.
Open 07:00 - 24:00. . PTAULEGSW
Francesco
At Francesco youll be greeted by tasteful design, courteous staff and great looking dishes made with the freshest ingredients. We were particularly impressed with the
wine menu, which is about as thick as a phone book, and
the huge leafy salads. The whole place looks and feels like
a middle-class Tuscan home, complete with plants, bird
cages, wine bottles, cupboards filled with crockery and
tables bursting with happy families enjoying classic Italian trattoria food.QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 47, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 05 52, www.restoran-francesco.
ru. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. .
PTALVESW
20
years
Gusto
Gusto is a hip little place where local businessmen and
gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian
food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem
to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef
without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that
kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks
basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering masterpieces that benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes.
QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PTALEGSW
Italy
The chef at this restaurant spent many years in Italy learning
the secrets of Italian cooking and his experience is felt in
every dish. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual
diner, a process you can observe with your very own eyes,
courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes like pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well
done stir-fries as well as grilled fish and meat. Wash it all
down with their sublime home-style lemonade. Downstairs
is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if youve made the mistake
of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a
meal, you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot
coffee or tea.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. . PTAULGSW
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33
Where to eat
russian cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and
other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what
that green grass stuff is, its dill (ukrop) and it usually
finds its way into everything.
Nightlife
Jamies Italian
Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should except
the usual high standards of cuisine and service: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and
his mentor Gennaro ontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian
flour and farm eggs and is prepared right before your eyes,
while the rustic bread is made according to original recipes
and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian, and
almost every wine is available by the glass. Lovers of a festive
Italian atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place
has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors, a large team
of servers, and cooks hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2,
Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70,
www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PTALVGSW
Marcellis
Marcellis is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with
a simple style that reflects the usual images of Italy jars
of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese
case there although its the tables full of noisy dinners
that really make the atmosphere authentic. The pareddown menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic
and the delicious sauces are infused to the bursting point
with tomato, chili and basil. Featuring an open kitchen,
Marcellis offers diners yet another great opportunity to
eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at
Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro
Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44,
www.marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. . PTAGSW
Palermo
Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stones throw from Nevsky pr.
and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian
style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The
soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background,
putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping
with the Italian dcor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu
with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean meat. Business
lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermospb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAEGSW
Cafe Stirka
A small, alternative and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good
sound system, old sofas and small bar serving cold and
hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You
can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines
and sup a beer while you watch them spin - all in a smokefree environment. Terrace seating for the those who need
a puff or just want to hang out in the (semi-)fresh air. Laundry services available.QC-2, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PEW
Probka
Probka is known for its large, open kitchen, designed so that
diners can see how their food is being prepared from any location in the restaurant. The restaurant offers a traditional Italian menu and a carefully chosen wine list with over 100 wines
from around the world. The building also houses the Probka
Caf, with its own kitchen and a separate entrance directly
onto the street. The caf offers prices significantly lower than
those at the restaurant and in addition Italian cuisine it also
has some sound Russian favourites.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova
6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 911 922 77 27, www.probka.
org. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PTAEGSW
Cafe-Bar Produkty
Produktys owner apparently was inspired by those
quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the
Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both
design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty
rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that
even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles,
look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro
favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while
for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or
bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you
have to ring the door bell to get in.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open
14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00.
PAEW
Chroniki
Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to
merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar
and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Sovietera watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy,
simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you a great view
of the classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The
preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad
ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. The numerous types of vodka
include Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2,
Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31
61. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW
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35
Nightlife
Cuba Libre
Upon entering this bar, its immediately obvious that
the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is
adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble of
spirits behind the bar includes many delicious varieties
of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre
a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic burgers and platters to share will go down a treat,
but its really at night when the place comes alive. The
heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long you might
not let yourself leave until youve sampled a good few.
QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 983 55 26, www.barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. .
PAESW
Dead Poets
This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want
a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at
the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the
evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or
backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of
whiskey is impressive and accompanied by a delicious
range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music
and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo
12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.
dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00.
. PAW
Nightlife
Helsinki Bar
This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of
the late 70s. Well, thats the case if you are Finnish and your
parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew
liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage
Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester
style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the
menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There
are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer
meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild
rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW
Library Bar
The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed
pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed
gastrobar offers filling but carefully prepared food. The
library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might
be more of a place to catch some football on the many
screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to
relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky
pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www.
library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. . PASW
Liverpool
If Beatles covers are your thing, youll enjoy Liverpool - a pub
with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves
great food in large portions, has screens for sport events
and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk
from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play
pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing
along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . PAW
Terminal Bar
Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length
of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the
weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately
without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorseses Taxi Driver, the space
is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar
stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here
for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11,
MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. . PW
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Clubs
Cocktail bars
Avrora
Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts
and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which
hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme
features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of
the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River
and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2,
MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW
Bar 812
Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly
fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful
people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie
Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at
the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul.
Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81
29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW
Dom Byta
The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when
this bar was named after the type of storefronts that
offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished
gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice
touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the
DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle
electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for
the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul.
12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.
dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 07:00. PTAESW
Mishka
Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking
husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with
pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized
glasses and handmade accessories. Theyre tapping their
feet to the DJ whos sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Purga
There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river.
Purga-I celebrates New Years Eve every night complete with
midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and
dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab.
reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23,
www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
Daiquiri Bar
Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover
the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and
the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails
professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly
good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced
cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the
weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14,
www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00.
PASW
Graf-in
The English meaning of grafin is carafe, which is fitting
since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy
interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is
clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd.
Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little
uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers
a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks
as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious Berry
Cheesecake. An extensive food menu includes the usual
Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass
and steaks. During the week its pretty quiet, but on the
weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW
Tsvetochki
A caf-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated
around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively
drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Dcor
is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with
the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki
attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night
in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07
54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW
Tyomnoe Dark
Svetloe Light (for beer)
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37
What to see
What to see
Peter and Paul Fortress
The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburgs
first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along
with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandants House museum which examines the history of the
city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva
Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress
itself. However, the more unusual Engineers House and
Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and
good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing
Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the
Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a
dip in the bracing waters at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open
08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral
open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free.
All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
St. Petersburgs World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of
the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europes
greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet
times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount
of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly
beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery,
where you can visit the graves of Russias greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in
the monasterys bakery in the afternoon (on your left as
you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt
Blood
This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion
domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of
St. Petersburg, but its one of the citys most beautiful and
memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because
it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it the mosaic church because
the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall
featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in
the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Kazan Cathedral
This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peters in Rome, is
one of the citys most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811
to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The
dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky
has 96 columns. Be warned, its a quiet place and they dont
like you to talk a lot in here, its place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00
Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum
of Anthropology and Ethnography)
St. Petersburgs oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by
Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the
Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has
anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix
of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peters Anatomical Collection,
with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still
draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
Russian Museum
A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the
cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is
housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of
beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace
is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium.
It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding
collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has
an especially strong display of work from the turn of the
twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which
host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaacs Cathedral
Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaacs is one of the worlds
largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned
with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858
the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who
was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear
day we recommend climbing to the domes top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade
are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.
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CITY CARD
Get the most out of your
trip to St. Petersburg with
the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card
gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around
the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40
museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof.
It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city
with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to
get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available
in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More
information at www.petersburgcard.com.
February - March 2015
39
What to see
Saints of Petersburg
What to see
Churches
Museums
St. Petersburg has been described as a living museum under the open skies, and for good reason! There is something
for everyone!
Artillery Museum
QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232
02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission
50 - 300Rbl.
Museum of the St. Petersburg
Avant-garde (Matyushin house)
QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission
60 - 100Rbl.
Museum of Political History of Russia
QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.),
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and
last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
314 98 83, www.yusupovpalace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should
be booked in advance by
phone (+7) 812 314 88 93.
Excursions 150 - 500Rbl.
Audioguide 500Rbl.
Lyrical City
With so many wonderful writers and poets who were
born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave
the city without visiting one of the museums honouring
them.
F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial
Museum
QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should
be booked in advance by phone.
Memorial flat of Alexander Blok
QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713
86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl.
Nabokov Museum
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Pushkin Apartment Museum
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40
- 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.
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41
What to see
What to see
coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble
sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums
worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage
Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house
where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his
closest (and rowdiest) friends.
Opening Times
and Tickets
Oranienbaum
QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org.
Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces
250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl.
Pavlovsk
QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to
park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl.
Peterhof
QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30
- 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue
of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl
and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl.
Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06.
Pushkin
QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine
Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherines Palace open
12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00
and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the
month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl.
Strelna
QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.
ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you
visit the palace, to make sure its not closed for an
official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl.
42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
St. Petersburgs
Historical Outskirts
Russias winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better
weekend escape than spending some time at one of the
many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great
opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds
of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The
snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your
feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being
cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head
out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow
castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow
fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow!
Konstantinovsky Palace (strelna)
Once known as Putins Palace, this palace is now one of the
official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the
Palaces original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the
public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace
are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a
display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts
from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of
fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you
enter (this is also an official government building).
Peterhof Palace and Park
Accurately referred to as the Russian Versailles, Peterhof is one of Russias number one tourist attractions. It
is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October,
when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is
well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great
Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that
followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding
another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal
point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from
there the park spreads out to the left and right along the
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Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isnt quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but its nonetheless a
lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of
Peter the Greats best friends, started building the estate
and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of
her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with
baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikovs Grand
Palace hasnt changed a great deal over the centuries and
its one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that
wasnt destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as
Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe
near the administration building, the only place in the park
where you can buy food or drinks.
Pavlovsk
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to
describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like
a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall
trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with
classical statues and flanked by benches make for many
a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a
place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an
afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its
magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The
country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful
architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand
as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great
place to get away from it all.
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Getting There
Pushkin Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of
St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station:
for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or
take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.
From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186,
for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.
By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train
station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.
From there you can walk to Catherines Palace (20min)
or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.
For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to
Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or
marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from
Kupchino metro/train station.
Strelna Peterhof Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg
on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west
of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres
east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg
proper and Peterhof ).
By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take
marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a.
You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky
train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka
404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka
343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka
103(K224).
By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy
Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe,
Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof,
take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver
that you want to exit next to the fountains.
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.
Pushkin
Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of
St. Petersburgs most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe
Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following
the communist revolution in honour of one of its other
well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In
2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkins many treasures are
sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park
filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherines Palace
to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent
their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks
and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander
Pushkin studied.
February - March 2015
43
Hermitage
The director of the Hermitage once said, I cant say that the
Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but its
certainly not number two. With over three million works of
art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along
the Neva, the museum cant fail to impress.
250 years
In December 2014 the world-acclaimed museum celebrated
its 250th anniversary. The museums central building, the socalled Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter
residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrellis magnificent baroque-style design
was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight years
later, at the end of Elizabeths reign. In the fall of 1763, Empress
Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new mistress of
the palace and commissioned new architects and designers
to transform the palace to suit her preference for neoclassical
style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become the incredible
museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, the Empress
commissioned the construction of the Large and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only that, but she also
personally purchased the art collections that form the basis of
the Hermitages collection today.
The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museums
official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an
agent of Prussias King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick IIs commission. However, when the King was unable to
finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers
and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.
Hermitage
A treasure trove
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl.
Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket
offices inside the museum and via special terminals
at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
45
Features
Features
hidden museums
It is no secret that St. Petersburg is one of the richest cities
in the world in terms of culture. Millions of tourists flock
from all over the world to Russias beating cultural heart
each year, seeking the most treasured historical venues the
city has to offer. The Kunstkamera Museum, the Russian
Museum and of course the State Hermitage are compulsory attractions for almost every tourist, something which
is noticeable especially during the high season. Standing
outside the Hermitage, having barely escaped the massive
crowds marching through its halls, one can only wonder
if there might be an easier way of enjoying what Piter has
to offer. Well, yes there is, and to make sure you can enjoy
as much of St. Petersburg as possible, we have sacrificed
some shoe leather in a quest for some of the lesser known
museums of the city. These relatively unknown gems are
often overshadowed by their bigger brothers, but now the
time has come for them to enter the limelight and steal the
show! We have found a whole range of museums where
you can wander round in peace, far from the madding
crowd all of the Piter, none of the stress!
Faberg Museum
As sure as eggs is eggs, the masterpieces created by the
House of Faberg are inextricably linked to St. Petersburgs
imperial past, so it is perhaps surprising that until recently
there was no museum in the city specifically devoted to
them. In 2013 all that changed, and now one of the worlds
finest collections is on display in the magnificently restored
Shuvalov Palace, just a couple of minutes walk from Nevsky
Prospekt. Pride of place goes, naturally, to nine Easter Eggs
crafted for the last two Russian tsars, but the collection
includes over 4,000 other items of all shapes, sizes and
materials, some created by Fabergs contemporaries who,
while they may have lacked his flair for PR, were certainly
masters in their own right. Notwithstanding the intrinsic
and financial value of some of the pieces, they are not hidden away behind velvet ropes, in fact you can get right
up to the display cases, and we suspect that the cleaners
spend most evenings wiping nose-prints off the glass. The
entrance fee includes an excursion, indeed if you visit during the day you will have to join a tour, but dont be put off
if you are an independent sort: the tales to be told by the
guides are informative and entertaining, and truly bring the
exhibits to life.
Vodokanal Museum
Bread Museum
A museum dedicated to
bread sounds rather unusual, and in some ways it
is. The bread museum in St.
Petersburg is the only one
of its kind in Russia and one
of just thirteen in the world.
This unique museum
showcases the importance
of bread throughout history, something that many
people have nowadays forgotten. Bread was not simply a snack: it was in many ways a
symbol of harmony between humans and nature. In Russia
particularly, bread was considered as something valuable,
if not a necessity of life. Rituals practised in old Russia often
included bread and it was heralded as a sign of hospitality. The museum focuses on the role of bread in St. Petersburg, showing a wide range of baked products commonly
prepared by bakers and confectioners in the nineteenth
century. In more recent history, the importance of bread
is magnified in a small corner showing the rations during
the time of World War II and the siege of Leningrad. This
will certainly make you feel lucky the next time you sink
your teeth into a sandwich. The bread museum is relatively
small, so it is the perfect venue to visit if you have some
spare time and do not feel like loafing around. Be sure to
ask for English information at the cash register, since the
exhibition itself barely has any.
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Coffee Museum
GrandMaket Russia
47
Features
Krassin Icebreaker
Originally named the Svyatogor, the Krassin has certainly left a long history in
her wake. Built in Newcastle upon Tyne in England
and launched in 1916, the
icebreaker was the most
powerful vessel of its type
in the world right up to the
advent of the nuclear-powered era in the 1950s. The
Krassin was primarily deployed for pathfinding, exploration
and rescue missions, but also served as a warship during
World WarII. At the end of hostilities, she was disarmed and
returned to peacetime duties, and crunched through her
last icefloe in 1998. Since then, the Krassin has bobbed contentedly at anchor on the banks of the Neva, insofar as anything that weighs 10,000 tonnes can be said to bob. The
museum does not allow single visitors, so you will need to
wait for one of the tours. These are conducted every fifteen
minutes, so waiting isnt really an issue. We must warn you
that the Krassin is not as adapted to tourists as some other
museums in St. Petersburg: tours are only given in Russian,
and information in English is, for now, scarce. If you have
any friends or family who understand and speak Russian,
take them with you. In the worst case scenario you may not
understand anything your guide explains, but just being on
board is an unforgettable experience in itself.
Sigmund Freuds Dream Museum
Close your eyes and wander off into a world of dreams. That
is what you are supposed to do when passing through the
door of the museum of Sigmund Freuds dreams. Do not
keep them closed for too long though, or you might bump
into something. With his unorthodox theories about dreams
and neurology, Sigmund Freud is considered to be the father
of psychoanalysis. In Freuds theories dreams were described
as wish-fulfilments, and they were linked to several aspects
and recurring themes. The museum sets out to create a
physical manifestation of Freuds dreams and theories. In the
first of the two rooms you will find information about Freud
himself and drawings of the dreams he described. The second room is a long hallway with glass walls on each side and
a bright screen at the end. Behind the walls are many objects
which seem to have no relation to one another. Or do they?
It is up to you to find out. Using various methods it is possible to alter the objects and retrieve messages hidden within
them. The message that you retrieve from them, however,
depends on your own state of mind and vision.
Hygiene Museum
Sorry to be blunt, but do you wash yourself thoroughly every
day? If not, a visit to St. Petersburgs Hygiene Museum will
remedy that for you. Put on your shoe covers, ascend the large
staircase and prepare to make a clean break. Explanations
about the origins of hygiene and the danger of exposure to
some types of animals may give the impression that the museum is an innocent showcase for kids, but dont let yourself be
48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Pskov
misled, this is not the case. Although the museum is undobtedly very informative for children, there is a lot to be learned
for adults as well. The museum shifts its focus from hygiene to
health as you walk along its halls, and the smokers and drinkers among you may want to quit after seeing a pair of charred
lungs in a jar, or a liver bleached by the effects of alcohol.
The 16+ hall takes a turn for the worse, with unborn fetuses
preserved in jars. A nice addition to the museum is a display
featuring one of Pavlovs original dogs. After your visit you may
well want to head home and rinse yourself properly, but you
will probably be too busy answering your kids questions about
reproduction. Still, its all good clean fun.
Arctic and Antarctic Museum
QE-3, Ul. Marata 24A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month.
Admission 70 - 230Rbl.
Krassin Icebreaker
QB-3, Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta 47 (23-ya liniya),
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 35 47, www.
krassin.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Wed of the month. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
Bread Museum
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 73, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764
11 10. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Mon and last Tue
of the month. Admission 100Rbl.
Coffee museum
QE-2, Voskresenskaya nab. 14, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 275 87 36, www.mcof.ru. Open 11:00 20:00. Admission 250Rbl. Show-tasting 600 - 700Rbl.
Faberg Museum
QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 600 11 44, www.fabergemuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00 (excursions only), 18:00 - 20:45 (non-excursion).
Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
Sigmund Freuds Dream Museum
QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 18A, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812
456 22 90, www.freud.ru. Open Tue, Sat, Sun 12:00 17:00. Admission 150Rbl.
Grandmaket Russia
QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7)
812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400 - 450Rbl. Audioguide 150Rbl +
500Rbl deposit.
Museum of Hygiene
QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
595 89 08, www.gcmp.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:30. Open
10:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Admission 80Rbl.
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
QE-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 275 75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 17:00, Wed 12:30 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Thu of the
month. Admission 300Rbl.
Vodokanal Museum
QF-2, Shpalernaya ul. 56, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 438 43 75, www.vodokanal-museum.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.
Hotel Rizhskaya
QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya.
ru. 265 rooms.
Old Estate Hotel & Spa
QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45,
www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.
Oktyabrskaya Hotel
QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.
Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva
QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.
Hotel 903
QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www.
pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.
Hotel Golden Embankment
QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78
77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.
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Where to stay
No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your
wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists
as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand
and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov
does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation,
whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place
to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof
over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list
of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.
49
Pskov
Getting There
Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburgs
Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stopping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40.
You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal
(metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05.
Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia,
so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus
or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St.
Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost
you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be
approximately 1 hour.
Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to
Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies
that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make
things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When
traveling with one of these companies, be sure to reserve your tickets beforehand.
Autograf minibus
Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30,
20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911
397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru.
Avtovizit minibus
Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00,
19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old
to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40,
www.avtovizit.com.
Avtofavorit bus
Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00,
18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at
17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Moskovskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl).
www.napiter.ru.
Getting around
Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so
you should not have any trouble finding your way
around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive,
and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just
like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis
are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are
very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices
start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station
can be found at the same place in the south-eastern
part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to
the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to
the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr
cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32,
www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Pskov
What to see
outside PSKOV
Old Izborsk
When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the
neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used
to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns
that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one
of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each
hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring
your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions
at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides
(either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a
cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov
central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route
no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and
Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.
Pechory
This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at
any point during its existence. The monastery currently
consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to
behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath
the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims
and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by
taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00,
13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the
station.
Parks
Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk,
or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park
(Childrens Park) can be found near the centre of the city,
and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend
their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony
rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of
the citys many churches inside this park. A little further
into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where
occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk
in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any
troubles.
Pushkin Hills
Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The
entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated
around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe
19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover
some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.
Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and
it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.
Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills
are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to
find a guide who can help you get there and show you the
way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful
the hills are, you do not want to get lost.
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Churches
It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov
and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than
40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the
oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while
some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those
interested in old Russian architecture and religion.
Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in
a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and
open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches
demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their
heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some
spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves
you having to ask at every church you enter.
Trinity Cathedral
Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of
Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the
Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most
tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of
Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when
you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the
citys main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used
as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The
kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can
buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or
wooden spiked maces. To each his own!
Mirozhsky Monastery
As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived
in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monasterys Christ Transfiguration
Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have
been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into
the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll
through its garden is already a good enough reason to
do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence
and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy
a moment of rest, and the site has been included on
the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.
QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www.
mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.
February - March 2015
51
Pskov
Where to stay
Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month,
you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows you to
get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels
ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels
filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are
located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking
to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located
hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind
after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.
Where to eat
You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city
is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting
to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and
restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or
traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still
your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov
are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like
Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants
and cafes in Pskov especially for you!
Pozharka Tavern
The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked
meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden
doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper
and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous,
allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some
tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire,
but the true specialties come from the taverns very own
smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who
need it, but it hasnt been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make
sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu
before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.
QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 02:00. .
Dvor Podznoeva Halls
The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people
who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the
inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the
beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant,
waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb
welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic
and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on
the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade
kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you
get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of
charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00,
www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. .
Double Coffee
With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a
modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, caf
and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.
From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at
Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is
fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your
friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky
Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to
rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel.
(+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00. .
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
5 Stars
Nightlife
Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a
city with many students, who need to unwind after a long
week of studying hard. What better way to do that than
to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs,
each with its own face and style. If you like to show your
moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places
where you can boogey down all night long. When local
Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most
likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only
know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to
converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and
are genuinely interested. Below youll find a few places
where you can party as much as you like.
Angleterre Hotel
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
belmond Grand Hotel Europe
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg
Q-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
183 rooms.
TIR Club
Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that
truly has its own identity. The underground style of the
bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music
playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of
the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music
events, which are held near the stage in the back of the
club. During events you will have to pay admission to
enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have
a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54,
www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun
16:00 until last guest. .
Super
Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a
complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is
possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep
in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play
snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in
Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing
events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www.
superpskov.ru.
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53
Where to stay
Ask the Concierge
Interview with Maria
Semenova, concierge
at the Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe.
Please tell us something about yourself.
My name is Maria Semenova. I was born in
Kurgan, a provincial city
in Siberia, and when I
was 17 I decided to return to my roots in St. Petersburg. My grandmother was
born here, and she was such an inspiration for me that
I ended up falling in love with St. Petersburg at a very
early age. From the very first day I arrived until now I
cannot stop marvelling at this place, so my work here
as a concierge is not so much a career choice, more a
fulfilment of destiny!
Can you tell us something about the Grand Hotel
Europe? What makes it special? What do you like
best about your work here? I have been working as
concierge here for almost 7 years, so I can honestly
say that the Grand Hotel Europe is my second home,
my Alma Mater. I meet so many interesting people
here, learn new things about everything about my
work, about life, about people in general. The Grand
Hotel Europe is the oldest 5-star hotel in Russia with
a rich and varied history, and it is so great to be the
part of it.
What can you tell us about your favourite places
in St. Petersburg? Oh, there are so many places I
like in St. Petersburg! But most of all I like to spend
my free evenings at the theatre, whether it be to
see a play, an opera or a ballet. This season I plan
to see the Great Gatsby ballet at the Mariinsky, starring my favourite ballet dancer Denis Matvienko,
Shakespeares Loves Labours Lost at the Maly Dramatichesky theatre, then there are the premieres
of the Barber of Seville at the Mikhailovsky, and
Chernyshevskys What is to be Done? at the Bolshoi
Dramatichesky. So much to see!
What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What is a must-visit in St.
Petersburg during the winter? In the winter when
everything is covered with a blanket of snow, the most
beautiful places are really to be found outside the city
gorgeous suburbs like Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Alexandria
and Gatchina. You can stroll along the snow-covered
paths or take a ride in a horse-drawn troika. Entrance
to parks in winter is free, and afterwards you can visit
the palaces without having to queue for hours like you
do in the summer.
Shopping
4 Stars
Chocolate Museum
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
La Petite Opera Gallery
QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox.
net. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Lomonosov Porcelain Factory
QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Nevsky Souvenir Shop
QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya
ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.
nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Pavloposadskie Platki Shop
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963
329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Souvenirs Fair
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
3 Stars
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
Herzen House
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Galeria
The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and
a stones throw away from the Moscow Railway Station,
Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful building fits remarkably well here. Inside, its everything you
would expect from your modern shopping mall and
more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St.
Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis,
Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian designer brands as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some
very good restaurants. When with children, head to
the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area
for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr.
30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.
galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK
Bookshops
Bukvoed
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06
01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW
Dom Knigy
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23
55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK
Shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54
08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open
10:00 - 22:00. AKW
GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK
Nevsky Centre
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52
57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. AK
Eliseevsky Store
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66
66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
55
Shopping
Russian Souvenirs
For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country,
whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting
something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and
interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and
friends to colleagues and clients. And were not just talking
about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are
certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take
some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home
with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following:
Platok
A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and
beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These
patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be
worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a
winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves
around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer
over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka
look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which
is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray
and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely
warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as
a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a
coat.
Cultural Centres
Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home,
then of course youll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear
flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on
it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.
Most of the things you can get in markets are made from
fake fur, but, if youre willing to make an investment, real fur
hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur
shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are
very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want
to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they
dont get damaged. Made from sheeps wool, valenki are
said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear
them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks
is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your
skin as you walk.
Anything pickled
Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread
almost always includes domashnie soleni or homemade
pickles, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers,
tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot
of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great
substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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57
How does the hotel sector in Moscow and St. Petersburg differ from the Russian regions? I am very concerned about oversupply in the regions. I think Moscow
will recover a bit next year, 2015 will be tough. St. Petersburg will continue to benefit from more internal tourism
but the regions although not suffering now from any
real crisis will suffer as new supply opens. For now, since
business in the regions is mostly local, hotels have not
suffered too badly. The issue is the World Cup and how
that will inspire people to build too many new hotels in
cities that cannot support so many new hotels what
happens afterwards? The regions are very price sensitive
so hotels can only get so much average rate.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Buddhist Temple
QPrimorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911
224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed.
Catholic Church of St. Catherine
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Evangelical Lutheran Church
of St. Katarina (Swedish church)
QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/
Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish
of St. Maria Church
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Grand Choral Synagogue
of St. Petersburg
QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for
visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.
Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.
clinics
American Medical Clinic and Hospital
Q-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs.
Euromed Medical Center
QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs.
Scandinavia clinic
QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
International Schools
German School
QB-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. Open
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Infant School (British International
School)
QF-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714
77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Mandarina Day (Preschool Child Development Center)
QF-3, Nevsky pr. 147A, MPl. Al. Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812
924 24 98, www.mandarinaday.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
The International Pre-School
QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 921 977 89 35. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburgs oldest language schools. They have expanded
into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian
is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though
individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are
bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for
student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own
laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7)812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Derzhavin Institute
The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw
yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting.
There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings
and large windows. Theres also a library, common
rooms and computers with free internet access for
students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency.
They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are
kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group.
The staff speak many different languages and have
experience in teaching at both Russian universities
and abroad. They can also organise accommodation,
excursions and other social activities for students.
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26,
www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes
till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.
February - March 2015
59
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Metro map
Street register
1-28-ya liniya
C-3
Rubinshteina ul.
E-3
Admiralteisky pr.
D-3
E-2
Ryleeva ul.
E-2
Kovensky per.
F-3
F-2
Sadovaya ul.
E-2,3
Angliskaya nab.
C-3
Kronverkskaya nab.
D-2
Sampsonievsky most
D-1
E-2
Anichkov most
E-3
Kronversky pr.
D-1
Sapyorny per.
Arsenalnaya nab.
E-2
Kutuzova nab.
D-2/E-2
Shpalernaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Bakunina pr.
F-3
Lermontovsky pr.
C-3/C-4
Shvedsky per.
D-2
Baskov per.
E-2
Letny sad
D-2
Sinopskaya nab.
F-3
Belinskogo ul.
E-2
C-3
Smolnaya nab.
F-2
Birzhevaya liniya
C-2
Ligovsky pr.
E-3/E-4
Solyanoy per.
E-2
Blagoveshchensky most
C-2
Liteiny most
E-2
Sotsialisticheskaya ul.
E-3
Blokhina ul.
C-2
Liteiny pr.
E-2/E-3
E-3/F-2,3
D-2
Lomonosova ul.
D-3/E-3
Spassky per.
D-3
B-2,3/C-2
C-3/D-3
Makarova nab.
C-2
D-3
D-2
Starorusskaya ul.
F-3
Bolsheokhtinsky most
F-2
D-3
Stolyarny per.
D-3
C-1,2
Mal. Posadskaya
D-1
Stremyannaya ul.
E-3
B-3/C-2
Mal. Sadovaya
E-3
Suvorovsky pr.
F-2,3
Chernyshevskogo pr.
E-2
C-1
Sverdlovskaya nab.
F-1,2
Chkalovsky pr.
C-1
B-1
Tavricheskaya ul.
F-2
E-2
Degtyarnaya ul.
F-3
Manezhnaya pl.
E-3
Chaikovskogo ul.
Dekabristov ul.
C-3/D-3
Marata ul.
E-3
Teatralnaya pl.
C-3
Dostoevskogo ul.
E-3
Marsovo pole
D-2
Troitsky most
D-2
Dumskaya ul.
D-3
Mayakovskogo ul.
E-2/E-3
Tuchkov most
C-2
Dvortsovaya nab.
D-2
Mendeleevskaya liniya
C-2
Tverskaya ul.
F-2
Efimova ul.
D-3
Mikhailovskaya ul.
D-3
Universitetskaya nab.
C-2,3
Furshtatskaya ul.
E-2
Millionnaya ul.
D-2
Vladimirsky pr.
E-3
Galernaya ul.
C-3
Moskovsky pr.
D-3/D-4
Vosstaniya ul.
E-2,3
Glinki ul.
C-3
C-3/D-2,3
Vosstaniya pl.
E-3
D-3
Goncharnaya ul.
E-3
Muchnoy per.
D-3
Voznesensky pr.
Gorokhovaya ul.
D-3
Mytninskaya nab.
-2/D-2
Zagorodny pr.
D-3,4/E-3
Grafsky per.
E-3
Nekrasova ul.
E-2
Zhukovskogo ul.
E-3
D-3/E-3/F-3
Grivtsova per.
D-3
Ostrovskogo pl.
E-3
Inzhenernaya ul.
E-3
Pestelya ul.
E-2
Abbreviations
Isaakievskaya pl.
D-3
Petrovskaya nab.
D-2
Ul. Ulitsa
Iskusstv pl.
D-3
Pirogovskaya nab.
E-1/E-2
Pr. Prospekt
Italyanskaya ul.
D-3/D-4
Pochtamtskaya ul.
C-3
Pl. Ploshchad
Kadetskaya liniya
C-2
Poltavskaya ul.
F-3
Bul. Bulvar
Kamennoostrovsky pr.
D-1
Pushkinskaya ul.
E-3
Per. Pereulok
Karavannaya ul.
E-3
Radishcheva ul.
E-2/E-3
Kan. Kanal
Kazanskaya ul.
D-3
Razyezzhaya ul.
E-3
Nab. Naberezhnaya
Kirochnaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.
C-3,4/D-3
Bol. Bolshaya
Kolokolnaya ul.
E-3
Robespyera nab.
E-2
Mal. Malaya
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
63
Moscow
Moscow
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russias Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.
The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most
valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the
time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on
them.
Red Square
The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red
Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter
the Greats day to the huge military parades started by
Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleons troops,
the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney.
Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell.
Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St.
Basils Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured
domes. At the other end you will find the State Historical
Museum which details the long and turbulent history of
the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the
beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department
store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to
let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.
GUM
QRed Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43,
www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
QRed Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33
04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission
250Rbl.
State Historical Museum
QRed Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37
31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60
- 440Rbl.
The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the citys development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planets largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A Kremlin Territory ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarchs
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.
Churches
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637
28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups
for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call
(+7) 495 637 28 47).
Novodevichy Monastery
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Pokrovsky Monastery
QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911
49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Admission free.
Museums
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getting there
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from Moskovsky vokzal, so theres little excuse for not
making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can
also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to
Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at
one of Moscows three airports, hop on the aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre.
Luxury Trains
to Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The
cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night
and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have
already been made up with real duvets rather than
blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot
breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in
the morning and if at any moment during the trip you
experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come
to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh
in the morning, its worth the money.QTrains leave
Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:38 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495
35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
65
Moscow
hotels
Aeroexpress Trains
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train
connection to the capitals city centre. All? Yes, all!
Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal
and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal
and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket
counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals,
through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies,
and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets
can be found on the companys website where you can
purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You
can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. Download their free mobile app and
you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using
your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket:
the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the tickets
QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
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