HALF-SIZE

PACKARD

BY Recapture the romance of the horseless

GEORGE carriage era! Be the man who owns one!
JONES
IwayTthishasdownbright-red
been 63 years since the great-granddaddy of
1901 Packard roadster purred its
America's roadways. Our half-size version
should bring a twinge of nostalgia to MI's senior read-
ers—and delight the younger set.
Under the tonneau (that's the rear-deck lid, son)
there's a modern two-hp gasoline engine with chain
drive direct to the axle. Speeds up to 15 mph are pos-
sible. Designed to carry two youngsters in comfort, the
car also is sturdy enough to haul two adults. Right-
hand steering (as in the early days), an automatic
centrifugal clutch, a foot brake and hand accelerator at
your fingertips make operation of the vehicle a breeze.
It was on Aug. 13, 1898, that James Ward Packard
purchased the 12th car built by Alexander Winton. On
his trip home to Warren, Ohio, some 50 miles from the
Winton factory in Cleveland, the car broke down. The
incensed purchaser returned to the factory to complain
about his lemon and Alexander Winton told him, "If
you're so smart, Mr. Packard, why don't you build a
120 Mechanix Illustrated
121
 HALF-SIZE
PACKARD
FRAME is cut from angle iron and welded
together upside down. Front and rear axle
and spring assemblies are bolted in place.
COMPLETED chassis and running gear with
the brake pedal, brake rod, pedal-return
spring, engine and drive assembly in place.
RIGHT front wheel detail shows steering
assembly—shaft, pitman arm, perch welded
to axle, drag link, tie rod and ball joints.
122
car yourself?" History has recorded the
results.
The first Packard was sold in January
1900. Almost immediately the reputa-
tion of Packard was secure. "Ask the
man who owns one" became a house-
hold phrase.
We hope the building of this replica
1901 Packard roadster will recapture
for you some of the romance and excite-
ment of the horseless-carriage era.
The body is made of plywood, the
frame of angle iron, with a minimum of
welding. You can purchase such hard-
to-make parts as wheels (aluminum
cast—16x1.75 with semi-pneumatic
tires) and hub caps, steering wheel,
pillow blocks (one-inch Fafnir), ball
joints and brake (Mercury strap). The
other parts, for the running gear, re-
quire but a small amount of machining.
Most of the construction can be ac-
complished in the home workshop.
[For a price list of parts and informa-
tion as to where they are available, send
a stamped, self-addressed envelope to
George E. Jones, Box 1243, Magnolia
Park Station, Burbank, Calif.']
Construction begins with the frame.
Have your steel supplier cut the two side
rails and three cross members to length
from 1/8x1.5x1.5"angle iron.If you
have a home welding outfit, you can, of
course, do all the welding yourself.
Otherwise, have a welding shop do the
job for you. Lay the side rails upside
down on a flat concrete surface or weld-
ing bench and butt the cross members
against them. With all corners square,
tack-weld the joints and check the line-
up, then finish the welding.
Make the front axle and appendages
next. The yokes for the spindles are
made from flat, hot-rolled steel. Cut
them to length and bend to shape in a
metal vise. Drill the half-inch king-bolt
holes in the yoke ends. Weld the yokes
to the axle tubing, centering the yokes
on the axle ends and parallel to each
other. Weld the perch detail 3/16 x
1-1/2 x 2-1/2" h.r.s.) to the axle.
In making the spindle assemblies, note
that the right-hand spindle arm has two
5/16" holes drilled in it and the left only
one. Weld the wheel spindles (5/8x2-1/2
in. cap screws ) to the spindle bodies at
Mechanix Illustrated
October, 1964 123
 HALF-SIZE

PACKARD
right angles to the spindle arms.
Cut and thread the drag link, tie rod,
brake rod and brake support. Weld the
pitman arm to the steering shaft. Insert BODY for half-size 1901 Packard is made
the studs in each end of the steering from half-inch plywood, glued and screwed
shaft and lock them in place with roll at all joints and then clamped overnight.
pins. Bolt the ball joints to the spindle
arms and assemble the spindles to the
yokes with 1/2 x 4" hex-head bolts and
lock nuts.
Bend the parts for the spring assem-
blies in a metal vise. This work can be
facilitated by clamping a steel bar or a
2x4 to the end of each piece for more
leverage. Drill the necessary mounting
holes in the front spring assembly and
bolt the two front spring sections to-
gether with 3/8" bolts. The rear springs SEATS are plywood upholstered with one-
are made in two pieces and welded to- inch foam-rubber covered with black Naug-
gether at the ends. Drill mounting holes ahyde and trimmed with half-inch edging.
in the top sections where the springs will
mount to the frame. Drill two more holes
in the bottom halves of the springs for
mounting the pillow blocks later.
Drill mounting holes in the frame and
attach the front and rear springs. Mount
the front axle to the front spring with
one-inch U bolts and shackles. These
can be purchased at most hardware
stores. Make sure the spindle arms are
lined up parallel to the frame before you
tighten the U bolts. Install the tie rod
and one end of the drag link.
Cut the rear axle from one-inch steel 1901 PLATE, taillights and headlights are
tubing and pin the 5/8" threaded stub optional with builder. Note steering-shaft
axles in the ends of the tube with 1/4" support, which is mounted to the dashboard.
roll pins. Weld the drive plate to the
right-hand end of the axle to drive the
right rear wheel.
Now would be a good time to paint the
running gear—a flat black finish. Paint
the wheels at this time, too—either gold
or bronze.
Assemble the brake adapter and slip
it onto the rear axle. Slip a 36-tooth
sprocket onto the axle; also the two one-
inch Fafnir pillow blocks. Mount the STRIPING of the body and fenders can be
rear springs to the pillow blocks and done neatly by masking off 1/8" stripes
lock them in place. with tape and then brushing in white enamel.

124 Mechanix Illustrated

 Mount the front wheels, cinching
them on the spindles with lock nuts.
Back the nuts off one-quarter turn from
the snug position so the wheels revolve
freely. Adjust the ball joints on the tie
rod to give about 1/16" toe-in to the
front wheels. The left rear wheel, which
is the free wheel, is put on next. The
right rear wheel is the drive wheel and
will require two 1/4x20 tapped holes in
it to correspond to the hole pattern in
the drive plate. Bolt the wheel to the
drive plate. Snug the wheel with a jam
nut as described. Tap on the hub caps.
The engine mounting plate is made
from 1/8". hot-rolled steel. Make the
cutouts and elongated bolt holes and
drill the corner hanger holes. The four
hangers can be formed in a vise and then
bolted to the frame and the plate.
The jack shaft is a length of 5/8"-
diameter cold-rolled steel keyed for a
3/16" square key. Mount the pillow
blocks (these can be purchased from
Sears, Roebuck) onto the engine mount-
ing plate, then insert the jack shaft
through the bores and install the
sprocket on the end of the shaft. Mount
the clutch on the engine shaft and po-
sition the engine (two-hp, four-cycle)
on the mounting plate but don't tighten
the bolts yet. Fit the drive chains so
there is about half an inch of slack, then
tighten the engine-mounting bolts and
the pillow-block bolts.
Mount the brake support on the un-
derside of the right rear spring and se-
cure it through the eye of the brake
strap. Next, mount the brake rod itself
to the strap of the brake. The other end
of the brake rod will be hooked to the
brake pedal after the body has been in-
stalled.
The fenders can be molded from fiber-
glass or rolled from 22-gauge cold-
rolled steel. The eight fender brackets
are bent in a metal vise. Paint the MI PLANS SERVICE
fenders glossy black. Mask them with
tape and stripe them with white enamel More than 140 tested plans {or boats,
furniture, models, photo equipment,
paint. telescopes and other projects are offered
Cut all panels for the body from half- by the MI Plans Service. For a copy of
inch plywood. All joints are held fast by Plans Catalog No. 15, send a dime to
wood screws and waterproof glue. Cut MI Plans Service, Fawcett Bldg., Green-
wich, Conn. 06830. The Half-Size 1901
the foot-pedal slot and drill the steering- Packard plans are offered by the Plans
shaft clearance hole in the floorboard. Service at $3 per set as Plan No. 10-64.
Attach the [Continued on page 143]
October, 1964 125
Half-Size 1901 Packard
[Continued from page 125]
seat top and hinge the tonneau lid to it
with brass hinges. Add trunk-type latches
to secure the lid when shut.
Upholster the seat and backrest with
one-inch foam rubber and cover with black
Naugahyde. The seat cushion is removable,
but the backrest is attached permanently
by the two back braces and the arm rests.
Paint the back braces and the arm rests
with glossy black enamel and set them
[Continued on page 144]

I
Half-Size 1901 Packard de-clutch when you release the hand
throttle. And away you go!
[Continued from page 143] You and the kids will have years of en-
aside to be attached after the body is joyment with your 1901 Packard. Be the
painted. man who owns one! •
Go over the entire body, filling the
countersunk screw holes with plastic
wood. Sand all surfaces smooth and coat
with a filler. Then paint the body with an
undercoat and finally with bright red
enamel—two coats, sanding and dusting
between coats.
Attach the body to the frame with
quarter-inch carriage bolts. Insert the foot
pedal through the slot in the floorboard
and mount it to the brake spacer attached
to the frame. Attach a return spring to the
pedal and the other end of the frame cross-
member. Attach the brake clevis to the
brake rod and then to the brake pedal, ad-
justing the tension to get a positive return
action. Next, attach the tube-and-wire
throttle control (purchased from your en-
gine dealer), attaching the wire to the
carburetor, according to the instructions
packed with each engine. The other end is
attached to the throttle-control handle
(similar to lawn-mower control handles)
mounted on the seat side near the driver.
Secure the conduit to the underside of the
body with conduit clips.
Bend the steering shaft support to shape
and drill the one-inch clearance hole. Paint
the piece, let it dry, then mount it to the
dashboard panel. The steering shaft, which
is painted gold, is slipped from the under-
side of the floorboard through the clear-
ance hole and secured to the perch with a
lock nut, allowing the shaft to turn freely.
Attach the free end of the drag link to the
pitman arm. Install the steering wheel and
secure it with a half-inch acorn nut. Drill
through the slot in the cast aluminum
steering wheel to allow for insertion of a
roll pin to secure it to the steering shaft
and prevent it from slipping.
Attach the fender brackets and the
fenders, allowing about a four-inch clear-
ance above the wheels. Headlamps and
other accessories may be attached as you
desire.
Now for the official trial run of your
1901 Packard. Make sure all nuts and bolts
are tight. Fill the engine crankcase to the
proper oil level, gas up and start the en-
gine. Adjust for idling speed so it will
144 October, 1964