How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset Part 1

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This tutorial describes how to make a ribbon corset using actual ribbon. It has coutil and
boning only on the busk, sides, and grommets.
Part one covers how to create the ribbon panels and attach them to the grommet and side
coutil panels.
Part two covers the creation of the busk panels and inserting the busk, as well as how to
finish the edging on the busk panels.
Part three covers finishing the side panels.
Part four covers finishing the grommet panels.

Part One
Suitable ribbon must be high-quality, and preferrably natural fiber for breathability. It must
have a lot of strength when pulled on. It needs to be at least 1.5 (4cm) in width, but wider
will work better. For this corset I used 2.25 wide double-face satin ribbon. If you want to
use a ribbon that is not sturdy enough to be used alone (like some brocade ribbons), it can
still be used if it is backed with a sturdy ribbon.
You will need a small amount of coutil for the busk, side, and grommet panels. You will also
need boning. I recommend 1/4 wide spring steel flats.
This is the scale pattern for the shown corset. It does not include any seam allowances.
The patterns for most ribbon corsets made this way are going to look very similar, with the
main variation being the amount and placement of the curves in the ribbon panels.
The busk panel needs to be wide enough for the busk, one adjacent bone, and top-stitching
at the seam. The side panel needs to be wide enough for all included boning, plus top-
stitching at either side. The grommet panel needs to be wide enough for the grommets,
boning to either side of the grommets, any extra desired boning, and room for top-stitching
at the seam.

The width of the ribbon strips is the width of the ribbon, and the overlap is determined by
that width relative to the overall height of the ribbon panel. The ribbons each need to
overlap by at least 1/4. More does not hurt.
On the full-size pattern below, the upper and lower edges of each ribbon strip are shown.
The markers for each ribbon are parallel, and marked by number and panel. On the back,
thats B1, B2, B3, B4, and B5. On the front, thats F1, F2, F3, F4, and F5. The centerline is
also marked. The overlap is minimum 1/4, but on many of the strips it overlaps quite a bit
more.
The coutil panels are marked with dashes where the edges of the ribbons should match up.

The first step is to cut the coutil pieces. That was one busk panel on the fold, one busk
panel with seam allowance, four side panels, and two back panels on the fold.

I marked each piece with the center (noted with a dash) and the ribbon bounding marks.
For the center panel, I marked both sides of two of the pieces so I can more easily
reference the marks when lining up the ribbons. I also marked the top end of each panel to
help keep them from getting flipped.
When creating a corset in this style, make as many written notes on these panels as you
need to in order to keep them clear for yourself. The pieces are all so similar that it is VERY
easy to confuse which is which, and what is up and down.
After cutting out the coutil, I cut the ribbon strips, marking them to match the pattern panel
and labeling them by their location and number on the end that will be sewn into the side
panel. I would also advise marking them L and R for the right and left sides. Whether
you mark them this way or not, be sure that you will know which way is up, which end is the
front or back, and whether it goes on the left or right side.
Be sure to make the strips much longer than what will be the visible ribbon, so you have
plenty of surface to secure within the coutil panels. The easiest flaw in ribbon corsets is
cutting the ribbon too short, and having it pull free from the seam when it is worn.

I strongly recommend cutting and marking all ribbons at the same time. They are very
easily confused, and even moreso when one part is fully assembled and then you try to
make the mirror side. Trust me on this. I made one quarter first (as a test) and then made
the rest of the ribbon pieces. I ended up making a duplicate of the back panel (instead of a
mirror) and waisting about two hours of work.
As you cut the pieces for each ribbon panel, stack them separately so you dont scramble
them before sewing them together.
Cut each strip of ribbon with extra length equal to the width of the adjoining coutil panels.
Mark them with the edges and edges of any overlapping ribbon strips. I also marked each
strip with its identifying letter-number on the end that will sew to the side panel.
These are all the pieces for one back ribbon panel.

Arrange the strips together as a single panel, matching the marks for the ribbon edges

and pin them.

After pinning the ribbons together at the marks (and comparing the panel to your paper
patter it should match exactly), sew along the chalk so you can treat the ribbon strips like
one single piece.
Arrange and sew one side (left or right of the body), and then the other. Compare them
before stitching the second half, and make sure the are reverses of each other. If they are
both facing the same direction, one shoud be stacked with the center ribbon on top and the
second should be stacked with the center ribbon on bottom. This is illustrated below.

The next step is to attach the ribbon panel to the coutil.
Draw your seam allowance on the coutil panel (back panel shown here). Match the center
marks, and line up the stitches on the ribbon panel with the line on the coutil. Pin to the
edges, lining up the stitching with the seam allowance line.


Stitch directly on top of the stitches that are holding together the ribbons.

Fold over the coutil so the seam allowance and the loose ends of the ribbon go across the
body of the panel. Iron it over in a tight fold agains the seam. Top-stitch to secure. Try to
keep the coutil panel as straight as possible, and allow the ribbon ends to flare out. Adjust
the ribbons as needed so they lay smoothly across the coutil. If they need to be cut to lay
flat, cut straight down the length of the ribbon until it will lay flat (this was done on the side
panel, and can be seen later on).

Keeping the coutil as straight as possible, quilt down the ribbons across the width of the
panel. Stop at the seam allowance for the other side of the panel.


Trim the excess ribbon and stitch down the edges of the ribbons. These stitches will
prevent the boning from trying to go between the ribbons later on. If you plan to use boning
tape, these stitches are not necessary.

Next you will want to stitch the other side of the ribbon panel to the side coutil panel.
As you add each panel, you want to make absolutely certain it is oriented to match the part
of the corset that is already assembled. Pin carefully to match the seam mark and the seam
stitch, and double-check before sewing them together. Pay very close attention to your
front and back sides, up and down orientation, and waistline marks. Use the extra marks to
make sure you are lining everything up properly. It should all match.
Use the same proceedure as shown above when attaching each new panel.

If the curve at the center is too great to allow for the center ribbon strip to lay down flat
across the side panel, cut it straight down the middle. Do not cut all the way to the seam.
Stop about 1/8-1/4 from the seam. If you go all the way to the seam, some of the ribbon
may pull free and create an unsightly, frayed, weak area in the corset.

Quilt down the ribbon just like before, taking care to keep the coutil panel straight and
adjust the ribbons as needed so they will lay flat. Fold the ribbon over the top edge of the
coutil panel instead of trimming it. If you trim it, you run the risk of having the ribbon pull
free from the side panel at the top and bottom of the corset. Trim at the seam allowance on
the far side of the coutil panel.
Lay out the assembled portion of the corset and carefully orient it to match the next ribbon
panel.

Pin and check again.

Slash if needed, and quilt to the coutil.

NOTE: Do not automatically trim the loose ribbon at the top and bottom of each panel. Most
of the time you will want to fold it over, otherwise the edge of the ribbon will be too short to
hold into the coutil. By folding it over, it will stay put.