More Terrain For The Ogre Kingdoms

MORE TERRAIN FOR THE OGRE KINGDOMS
The release of the Ogre Kingdoms army marks the seond of o!r e"#loratory
ste#s into the lands to the east of the Old $orld% These mysterio!s territories
o#en the door to ne& #ossi'ilities for modeling yo!r terrain to re#resent the
&onders of the east% This artile sho&ases the &ork of (ario!s mem'ers of o!r
)S Ho''y Team &ho (ol!nteered to try their hands at reating some senery for
Ogres and the eastern lands%

Building on from our earlier series of terrain
articles for the Ogre Kingdoms, this article offers
quite a few tips, techniques, and new materials
for building more scenery to create a battlefield
for your Ogre Kingdoms army.
Snow-Covered Boulders shows you how to use
common obects, stains, and grasses to create
basic boulders. !he Ogre !otem "which was
loosely based on a #imalayan stupa or shrine$
gives you one idea for ta%ing the boulder idea a
step further.
Ho''y Note* &n order to get the effect of withered grass in these terrain pieces a
variety of different floc%s and types of static grass were used. 'ou can recreate these
effects with (ames )or%shop floc% and static grass. )oodland Scenics is a company
that manufacture many different types of floc% which you could also use, or you can
chec% out your local craft or hobby shop to see what they have to offer. *ifferent
types of in% can also be used to create the stone effects used in this article. +gain both
(ames )or%shop and )oodland Scenics produce in%s that can be used in this way.
+lik on the images to see larger (ersions%
Ste# , Cut out some hardboard bases and sand down the edges to a suitable angle.
Ste# - Build up the base with modelling putty. ,ress stones and pebbles of varying
si-e into the putty to simulate boulders. ,ush any displaced putty bac%
against the roc%s with a wet finger or sculpting tool. (ive the putty time to
dry fully before continuing to the ne.t step. *epending on the putty/s
thic%ness, drying could ta%e about half a day or longer.
Ste# . +pply a layer of white ",0+$ or wood glue to the base "avoid the roc%s$.
Sprin%le coarse sand over the glue before it dries. +llow the glue to dry and
sha%e off any loose sand into a container for future use.
Ste# / Basecoat the entire piece of scenery with S%ull )hite Spray undercoat. !his
basecoat may require a few passes for full coverage.
Ste# 0 & used a selection of in%s in a variety of earth tones to stain the boulders,
large roc%s, and base. Once the primer is dry, heavily dilute the colours with
water. +pply them to the roc%s in a 1leopard spot1 pattern. Since stone is
very rarely one solid colour, daub on a secondary colour with this 1leopard
spot1 technique. ,repare two separate cups with blac% "of a ratio of about
2345 pigment to water$ and dar% brown "2326 pigment to water$. 'ou may
have to play around with this mi.ture depending on which in%s you use.
*aub the secondary colour on in rough patches. *on/t cover the entire white
surface. &f the colour is not rich enough, apply another coat once the first is
dry or cut down on the amount of water being used. *on/t be afraid to allow
some of this colour to ma%e its way onto the scree "sand and pebble base$.
Ste# 1 Once you are satisfied with the outcome of the 1leopard spotting1 and the
pigment has dried, it/s time to apply the dominant stone colour. ,repare a
cup of greyish in% "2326 pigment to water$. 7se this dominant stone colour
to wash all areas of the 1boulders1 as well as the base. &f the colour is not
rich enough for your first wash, apply another coat once the first is fully dry
or cut down on the amount of water being used. Set the piece aside to dry
completely before proceeding to Step 25.
Ste# 2
& mi.ed up some light brown floc%s and Static (rass that & had bought from
a craft shop in a cup or sha%er. +pply ,0+ woodwor%ing glue in small,
sparse patches around the boulders. Sprin%le the static grass mi.ture over
the glue and allow it to dry. Once the glue and grass have bonded, sha%e the
e.cess free onto a piece of folded paper and pour the e.cess into the cup or
sha%er.
7se some !all (rass, which you can also get from craft shops, to add tall,
dry grasses to the base. Cut down the !all (rass to a suitable height and dip
the grass/ into a small puddle of white glue. ,lace the bottom of the grasses
onto the base and hold the grass upright with twee-ers until it starts to dry in
place.
Ste# 3 8i. plaster with water to get a very thic% mi.ture of almost-unpourable
1snow1. & used some modelling plaster "again, chec% your local craft shop$.
)or% quic%ly "good plaster tends to harden very fast9 you/ve got a wor%ing
time of about :-; minutes$ with a small palette %nife or small piece of
plasticard and pile and push the plaster in the recesses and shadows of the
boulders. +void touching the plaster for at least 5< minutes or so. !hic%
areas will need as long as =< minutes to dry.
Ste# 4 +dd e.tra details li%e lichen. + little bit of this detailing goes a long way,
and it/s not that hard. *ampen a cotton bud with water and dab at the roc%.
7se the reverse "dry$ side of the cotton bud and gently rub away the pigment
on the boulder.
Ste# , Cut out a hardboard base and sand down the edges to a suitable angle.
Ste# - Build up the base with modelling putty. ,ress the large stone into the putty
first. ,ush any displaced putty bac% against the roc% with a wet finger or
sculpting tool.
Ste# . ,ress a few smaller roc%s around the larger roc% along with a few smaller
items and bit-. & chose an Ogre gut-plate as well as a few captured shields
"trim and clean these items before you add them to the putty$. ,ush any
displaced putty bac% against these items as you did in Step 5. (ive the putty
time to dry fully before continuing to the ne.t step. *epending on the putty/s
thic%ness, drying could ta%e about half a day or longer.
Ste# / +pply a few drops of superglue to the bottom of a mid-si-ed roc% and attach
it to the top of the large roc% "thin% of how you build a snowman and you/ll
get the idea$. >epeat this process and add a smaller roc% on top. &t can ta%e
the glue a while to bond with the stone, so be patient.
Ste# 0 )hile waiting for the superglue to dry, clean and trim the two-part Ogre
8aw standard top and the animal s%ull top "both from the Ogre Bull plastic
sprue$. Cut a thin piece of steel rod to a length of =.:1. 7se a pin vise to drill
a hole through the centre of the Ogre 8aw "lengthwise$ and another hole at
the top of the groove in the rear of the animal s%ull "this hole should not pass
the whole way through the s%ull$. (lue the animal s%ull to the top of the
metal rod first with superglue. ?ow, apply glue to the inside and rear-facing
groove in the bac% of the Ogre 8aw. ,ass the metal rod down through the
Ogre 8aw until it rests ust below the animal s%ull. !he metal rod beneath
the Ogre 8aw should measure about 41. Superglue a vulture "() part code
@@=A<5<A2222A$ to the top of the animal s%ull to finish the banner pole.
Ste# 1 7se a drill bit that matches the diameter of the steel rod and drill a hole into
the putty base. )e suggest a slight angle to the base to give it a more
hapha-ard feel.
Ste# 2 Basecoat the assembled standard with Chaos Blac% Spray undercoat and
glue the standard "when fully dry$ in the drilled hole with superglue.
Ste# 3 +pply a layer of ,0+ woodwor%ing glue to the base "but not the roc%s$.
Sprin%le coarse sand over the glue before it dries. +llow the glue to dry and
sha%e off any loose sand into a container for future use.
Ste# 4 Basecoat the entire piece of scenery with S%ull )hite Spray undercoat. !his
basecoat may require a few passes for full coverage. 7se a spare piece of
paper to act as a mas% for the blac% standard when spraying on the white
basecoat. Bust fold a piece of paper in half and, with the base of the standard
in the fold, wrap the paper around the standard and spray. )hen spraying the
boulders from another angle, simply re-mas% the standard.
Ste# ,5 & used a selection of in%s in a variety of earth tones to stain the boulders,
large roc%s, and base. Once the primer is dry, heavily dilute the colours with
water. +pply them to the roc%s in a 1leopard spot1 pattern. Since stone is
very rarely one solid colour, daub on a secondary colour with this 1leopard
spot1 technique. ,repare two separate cups with blac% "of a ratio of about
2345 pigment to water$ and dar% brown "2326 pigment to water$. 'ou may
have to play around with this mi.ture depending on which in%s you use.
*aub the secondary colour on in rough patches. *on/t cover the entire white
surface. &f the colour is not rich enough, apply another coat once the first is
dry or cut down on the amount of water being used. *on/t be afraid to allow
some of this colour to ma%e its way onto the scree "sand and pebble base$.
Ste# ,, Once you are satisfied with the outcome of the 1leopard spotting1 and the
pigment has dried, it/s time to apply the dominant stone colour. ,repare a
cup of greyish in% "2326 pigment to water$. 7se this dominant stone colour
to wash all areas of the 1boulders1 as well as the base. &f the colour is not
rich enough for your first wash, apply another coat once the first is fully dry
or cut down on the amount of water being used. Set the piece aside to dry
completely before proceeding to Step 25.
Ste# ,- *etail your Ogre !otem with Ogre graffiti. 7se a soft pencil and draw a
piece of Ogre iconography onto the side of the bottom boulder. ,aint the
icon with >ed (ore. #ighlight the edges of the icon with Blood >ed. 'ou
can paint the war trophies and standard pole however you see fit. Coo% on
pp. =6-=A of )arhammer +rmies3 Ogre Kingdoms for ideas, paint schemes,
and quic% ways to paint rusting battle gear.
Ste# ,.
sha%er.
place.
Ste# ,/
8i. plaster with water to get a very thic% mi.ture of almost-unpourable
'ou can ma%e trampled snow by lightly pressing the round edge of the
sculpting tool into the plaster before it/s entirely dry. See Step ; of the
Snowy Cliff Dace proect for details.
Ste# ,0 +dd e.tra details li%e lichen. + little bit of this detailing goes a long way,
and it/s not that hard. *ampen a cotton bud with water and dab at the roc%.
7se the reverse "dry$ side of the cotton bud and gently rub away the pigment
on the boulder.
The Finished Ogre Totem
!he images below show you the finished Ogre totem. Once you get the hang of ma%ing
Ogre boulders, you can build on them to ma%e fun Ogre scenery li%e the totem. Cet
your gory imagination run with itE

&n )arhammer +rmies3 Ogre Kingdoms, the
bac%ground story for the (orgers tells the horrid
tale of how they come to be. &f an Ogre infant is
born without a paunch, it is thrown down a gaping,
agged pit into the dar%ness below. &f they survive
the fall, these Ogre whelps e%e out a troglodytic
e.istence in the warpstone-laced caves beneath the
tribe/s camp. Only the fiercest last long enough to
reach adulthood, and those that do are so mutated
that they barely resemble their Ogre %in.
#ere, we show you how to build your own (orger
pit scenery piece. !he finished product is ideal for
use in the +gainst !he Ogres mini-campaign
"especially in Scenario &03 Sacrifice to the (reat
8aw$.
Safety Note* *uring this proect, we used several power tools. !hese tools can be
very dangerous if you have no e.perience with them and you are not properly
supervised. ,lease, be careful. &f you do not have easy access to these tools, you can
ma%e do with smaller equivalents, but the proect will ta%e more time. Consider
loo%ing around your community for open shops that will let you use their tools "many
universities and student unions have shops li%e these open to even non-students for a
small fee$.
Ste# , 'ou will need a plastic "polystyrene preferred$ bowl that is roughly 6.:1 in
diameter. )e found a bowl for holding party snac%s at the supermar%et that
fit the bill nicely. +s you can see in the images above, you will be cutting the
plastic momentarily, so ma%e sure your bowl isn/t too thic% "it should be
about 2F261 thic%$. !a%e a permanent mar%er and draw out eight teeth on the
surface of the bowl. !he bases of these teeth should be roughly equal, but
feel free to draw the rest of the teeth in an irregular fashion. !hese are Ogre
teeth, after allE
Ste# - )ith a ig saw or band saw "please as% someone for help if you are
unfamiliar with these tools$, cut out the teeth from the bowl. !a%e your time
on this and be careful G not only can you hurt yourself, but you can also
damage your wor% if you go too fast.
Ste# . *epending on the plastic, you might have to sand the surface to remove any
gloss and rough up the surface so the paint will stic%. 7se medium-grain
sandpaper, try not to inhale the dust, and don/t worry about getting a smooth
surface G you want the teeth to loo% li%e rough metal, anyway.
Ste# / 8ar% a 2=1 square on a piece of hardboard. 8easure in A1 from the square/s
edge to mar% the centre of the square, and then measure in =1 from the edge
to mar% the perimeter of the pit "in the end, the pit should have roughly a 61
diameter$. Once you have your measurement lines mar%ed down, draw out
the shape of the base in a roughly circular pattern.
Ste# 0 )ith a ig saw or band saw "again, please as% for help if you need it and be
careful$, cut out the base by following the outside line you drew in the last
step.
Ste# 1 ?ow it/s time to bevel the edge of the hardboard base. 'ou/re aiming for
about a 4:-degree slope along the edge. &f you have access to a belt sander,
we recommend using one for this step. 'ou can also do this step with a
rotary tool or sand paper.
Ste# 2 !a%e the hardboard base and lay it over a sheet of 51-thic% insulation foam
"availability of this material often depends on local environmental laws and
climate conditions$. !race the outline of the base onto the foam with a
mar%er. +lso add the mar%s for the centre of the piece and the 61 diameter
li%e you did on the base. ?e.t, ta%e a retractable craft %nife, ig saw, or band
saw "again, be very careful$ and cut out the foam layer by following your
trace mar%s.
Ste# 3 Based on your diameter mar%s, draw the outline of the pit edge on the foam.
>emember, this is going to be agged roc%, so you don/t want a perfect circle
or other regular shape for the pit. Once you have the pit edge mar%ed, mar%
off a 6.:1 diameter from the centre point G this one should be a circle as it
represents the line of teeth. ?ow, with your craft %nife, begin cutting the
foam to ma%e boulders, crac%s, and other roc%y formations. *o not cut out
maor chun%s near the tooth circle or you will have a hard time gluing them
down later.
Ste# 4 &f you want to ma%e this scenery piece into a playable surface, you can add
stairs and use the flat parts of the foam to your advantage. Since this is Ogre
scenery, you should ta%e a =<-mm square base and measure the space on
each step to ma%e sure your Ogres can fit. 'ou can see the final design in the
above, rightmost image. !o finish the roc%y loo%, ta%e a well-te.tured stone
and press it into the surface of the foam. !his process will transfer the
stone/s te.ture, which will help you drybrush later.
Ste# ,5 Before you cut out the pit, chec% the fit of your teeth to ma%e sure they will
Ste# ,, )ith the craft %nife, cut out the pit hole based on your outline "watch your
fingers$. 'ou want to cut it so the edge of the pit angles in slightly to suggest
depth. +gain, don/t forget you/re going for the irregular, agged roc% loo%.
Once the pit is cut out, ta%e the te.tured stone again and press it into the
edges of the pit. )hen you are satisfied with the shape of the foam, glue it to
the base with ?o 8ore ?ails or wood glue. +llow this bond to set overnight.
Ste# ,- )ith an old brush, paint wood glue on the base, crac%s, and other areas
where you want sand. ?e.t, sprin%le on an appropriate sand-and-gravel mi.
over these areas of glue. +dd small roc%s and pebbles with ?o 8ore ?ails
as you see fit. &n the e.ample above, we painted the base of the pit with
Chaos Blac% so you can see it better. )e also glued on a few of the teeth by
pressing them into the foam about 2F;1, ta%ing them out and running ?o
8ore ?ails along the base of each tooth, and pressing them bac% into the
foam. #owever, we strongly recommend that you don/t glue on the teeth at
this time "we did it for educational purposes... really$, as they will interfere
with your drybrushing.
Ste# ,. Basecoat the entire piece by hand with Chaos Blac%. )e too% a pot of Chaos
Blac% to a nearby paint store and had them mi. up a can of late. house paint
of the same colour so we didn/t use 25 pots of Citadel Colours on one
boulder. 8a%e sure you cover all the foam with Chaos Blac%, as the pin%
will show through and ruin your final proect. Ci%e always, you have to
paint this coat by hand because a spray can will melt the foam. +lso
basecoat the teeth with Chaos Blac% while you/re at it.
Ste# ,/ +dd a heavy drybrush of Code. (rey "again, consider getting a can mi.ed
up for you$. Ceave some of the blac% showing in the deep recesses, but
otherwise cover the maority with grey. *on/t worry if you get greys on the
base G you/ll cover that up later.
Ste# ,0 *rybrush with Dortress (rey "you should be able to do this coat out of the
pot$. ,ay particular attention to the raised edges and corners. +dd small
drybrushed patches of >otting Dlesh in certain areas to give the roc%s more
variation and suggest lichen growths.
Ste# ,1 !o finish the roc%s, do a very light drybrush with S%ull )hite. +gain, pic%
out the raised edges and corners. !his coat should help subdue the >otting
Dlesh green. (o bac% and clean up the Chaos Blac% in the pit centre - it/s
supposed to loo% li%e a dar% abyss.
Ste# ,2 )e borrowed Steve Cumis%ey/s rusted weapon painting technique, which
you may have seen in )hite *warf for the teeth. Begin by stippling the teeth
with Scorched Brown "inside and out$. Stippling is a technique normally
used to create dappled highlights. ,aint is applied in dots in a dabbing
motion with either a pen or a brush with short, stiff bristles. !o ma%e a
suitable brush for this purpose, ta%e a small drybrush and cut the bristles
short. +lso, we should warn you that stippling often destroys brushes, so
ma%e sure you use an old one.
Ste# ,3 Once the previous layer dries, apply 0ermin Brown in the same way.
Ste# ,4 Dinish the rust effect by stippling the surface with Diery Orange. Ceave the
base of the tooth slightly dar%er than the rest to suggest a shadow.
Ste# -5 +dd traces of the metal underneath with Chainmail paint. *o this step by
dragging the brush along the tooth so it leaves strea%s. Concentrate on the
point and edges, and add scrapes to the sides where roc%s have hit the metal.
Cet this coat dry, and your teeth are paintedE
Ste# -, ?ow it/s time to glue in the teeth. ,lace a disposable cup in the center of the
pit to support the teeth as they dry. Carefully press the teeth into the foam
about 2F;1 "try not to crac% the paint$. !a%e them out and run ?o 8ore ?ails
along the base of each tooth. ,ress them bac% into recesses you made before
in the foam and rest the points on the cup. Cet this assembly dry overnight.
)ith scissors, cut the cup into small pieces and pic% them out between the
teeth.
Ste# -- !ime to wor% on the base. ,aint over the sand and hardboard with *ar%
Dlesh. ?e.t, add a wetbrush of (raveyard Harth "almost no *ar% Dlesh
should show through$. )ait for this coat to dry.
Ste# -. #eavily drybrush the base with Kommando Kha%i. 8a%e sure to pic% out
the edges of the gravel and other raised areas.
Ste# -/
sha%er.
place.
8i. plaster with water to get a very thic% mi.ture of almost-unpourable
'ou can ma%e trampled snow by lightly pressing the round edge of the
sculpting tool into the plaster before it/s entirely dry. See the Snowy Cliff
Dace proect for details.
The Finished Gorger 6it
Below are three images of the finished (orger ,it with a few models for reference. +s
you can see, this scenery piece would ma%e a great focus point for a game of
)arhammer. !his proect was both relatively easy and fun G we encourage you to try
your hand at it.
Clic% on the photos above to see larger versions.

More Terrain For The Ogre Kingdoms

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MORE TERRAIN FOR THE OGRE KINGDOMS

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