FABULOUS FUNGI

Sunnybrae Country Restaurant and Cooking School is located near the

town of Birregurra in SW Victoria - it is also my home with my partner
Diane Garrett. My culinary introduction to wild fungi began with the
tasting and cooking of wild mushrooms while I was working in London
where it was not unusual to have access to fresh morels, chanterelles as
well as many other exotic, wild fungi. It was also where I first tasted
truffles.

Diane and I have been living at Sunnybrae since 1981. Walks in the bush,
local pine forests and old gardens very quickly reveal wonderful displays
of strange and beautiful fungi. I began to use wild mushrooms firstly for
our own table and then slowly as I started to understand the varieties, we
began to use them in the restaurant. I cannot caution too strongly as to
the dangers of indiscriminate tastings. It took about six years before we
were confident of our understanding of them to start putting them on our
menus, and even now, there are only about three varieties that we
use...but the hunt is on.

The research for this class has been a wonderful, enlightening experience
- full of discovering new flavours, intrigue, secrecy, stories of struggle,
success and failure and unfortunately, death. I would like to thank the
many people who are pioneering work to develop these exotic, flavourful
foods and for the time they have given me. I hope this short session can
excite you to follow in my footsteps and get to know and enjoy these
marvels of nature - but please tread very carefully!

The interest in the botanical collateral of Australia began as early as the

first fleet. We know of the work of Banks and his collection of plant
material and the interest in fungi has also been here since the beginning.
Some early volumes on fungi have been by Kalchbrenner in “Grevillea”
with contributions by Bailley, Dr Berggren, Mrs Flora Martin, Baron Von
Mueller and many others. Their early studies were brought together in a
volume called the “Handbook of Australian Fungi” by M C Cooke, 1892.
Cooke was a leading 19th century Mycologist working at Kew Gardens in
England. The volume is extraordinarily comprehensive in the scale and
depth of its research, but unfortunately, as Cooke himself mentions in the
introduction, the reliability of some of the specimens was very variable.
This is because they had to be sent to Kew - a long and difficult journey,
and preservation techniques at the time were not very advanced. Its
scale exemplifies the dedication of the early botanists.

There is very little known about the qualities of indigenous species of

fungi, but much work is being done to understand their culture, the
compounds they contain, their relationship with the environment and of
course their culinary contribution. The search for flavourful Australian
fungi is slowly beginning. The difficulty of the task is that there are so
many species, and forms within each species. Aboriginal culture has used
fungi in their diet and we have a lot to learn from them as well as from
the botanists.
______________________________________

Morels One of the varieties that excite the imagination and palates of
cooks everywhere is morels. There are Australian indigenous varieties in
similar forms as those found in Europe and Nth America, but
unfortunately my experience has been that they are not quite as
flavoursome as European varieties (but I haven’t eaten that many). The
exact locations are closely guarded by those lucky enough to have found
them. Their preferred habitats are eucalypt forests to which they do not
have a strict symbiotic relationship. They regularly come up in the same
spots in springtime. One feature that accelerates their arrival is fires.
After a bushfire there are usually many more morels. Please remember
picking any plant material from National Parks is prohibited.

The culture and cultivation of morels has been a quest for botanists and
microbiologists since the 18th century. In the modern era, a
breakthrough was made by Ronald Ower of San Francisco ‘82. He
succeeded in regularly cultivating morels and published his results in that
year. He had difficulty in convincing commercial cultivating companies
that he had a process that worked but Neogen of Michigan became
interested. This company was affiliated with the Michigan State
University. Neogen convinced Ower to come to East Lansing to develop
the process. In 1986 US patent No 4,594,809 was submitted. Sadly,
Ower did not see the patent granted as he was murdered during a
burglary at his home a few weeks before it was granted. The process was
developed by Neogen who embraced the financial backing of Domini’s
Pizza. They formed a partnership called “Company M” which included
Neogen, Dominis, Skandigen Inc, (Sweden) Kuhn Champignons
(Switzerland) and the Salk Institute of Bio-Technology (La Jolla, CA).
(Starts getting scary). They built a pilot plant in Mason, Michigan. This
whole enterprise was sold to Terry Farms, Minnesotta. The company and
technology have since been sold again to Morel Mountain Incorporated,
who as far as I can tell own all the rights to the commercial cultivation of
morels under this process in the US.

In Australia, current research is being undertaken by Helen Faris and NG

Nair, with Professor Andrew Broderick who is the Director of the
Australian Wild Fungi Collection at the University of Western Sydney. Faris
writes that “...despite the substantial interest in morels, comparatively
little is known about the biology of this fungus.” Her research is seeking
to address this problem, and to investigate the environmental and
nutritional conditions that lead to fruiting bodies of these Australian
isolates, eg the role of bush fires. In the laboratory, she has succeeded in
producing fruiting examples and we eagerly await results of her further
research.
Also, at the University of Western Sydney School of Horticulture, Karen
Stott is working with Wood Blewitts (Lepista nuda), a variety that
regularly grows in one of the vegetable beds at Sunnybrae. Andrew
Broderick is heading both projects and is also collecting and studying
many other Australian and cosmopolitan species.

The world market for exotic fungi runs into billons of dollars, eg Boletus
edulis, a relatively inexpensive mushroom, is said to have a world market
of over $1 billon with some exotic oriental species being even higher, eg
matsutake - more about that later - and then there are truffles...
______________________________________

Truffles - No other fungus creates more mystery and intrigue than this.
In our “neck of the woods” there is a lot of research and development in
the cultivation of truffles, particularly in New Zealand and Tasmania. Ian
Hall at ‘Crop and Food’ Research Invermay Agricultural Centre, Mosgiel,
New Zealand, has been establishing Truffières since the mid ‘80's.

Truffles fall into a category of mushrooms called mychorizzal species, that

is those that form true symbiotic relationships with the roots of certain
trees. In the case of truffles it is usually oaks. Ian Hall’s research is also
taking in the Boletus edulis (cep porcini) and matsutake. This mushroom
seems to be the ‘Holy Grail’ of current research as this delicately
flavoured Japanese fungus that commands such high prices, is slowly
losing its natural habitat in Japan due to pollution and development. Ian
has had some success in inoculating Pinus radiata and Pinus densiflora,
meanwhile..... over in Perth, Nick Malajczuk working at the CSIRO, is in
charge of another exciting project involving mychorrizal (tree-related)
species. He and Mark Burchett are establishing broad acre eucalypt
plantations in China using Australian mychorrizal fungi. What needs to be
understood about this relation between fungi and trees is that the trees
are just as dependent on the fungi as the fungi are on the trees. The
other branch of this project is research into edible mychorrizal fungi,
again ceps and matsutake. Bill Dunstan is the research fellow in this
project.

In Victoria, Slippery Jacks (Suillus luteus) are a member of the same

family as porcini, cep etc. Although not as flavourful, there have been
many stories of true Ceps being found in Australia (anecdotal evidence
goes back to 1892) but a positive sighting has yet to be confirmed. So
the hunt is on. We should have fresh porcini from New Zealand for
Masterclass, if Australian Quarantine is co-operative.

At present there are many interesting mushrooms cultivated for the

commercial market. The pioneers in this area have been amongst many
Michael Brown of Huon Valley Mushrooms, Tasmania, Noel Arrold, Bowral
NSW and Jeff Lee, Wandin North Victoria. Their work concentrates on
shiitake, enoki, oyster, swiss brown (also called portabello and honey
brown), shimengi, chestnut and black and white fungus.
Most of these varieties are suited to the current eastern influences on
Australian menus. The culture of shiitake is especially interesting as this
mushroom is usually grown on logs in Japan and China. In Australia they
have succeeded in growing very high quality mushrooms on composite
logs made from Australian native hardwoods. Examples of these will be
in front of you now at Masterclass.

There is a lot going on in this field and the next few years should prove
interesting. Now for mushrooms.
______________________________________

The slides that follow illustrate some of the edible and poisonous species
found in Victoria - it is a small sample of what is out there. These slides
also illustrate how difficult it is to positively identify a species.
Cosmopolitan varieties may also have different properties when found in
Australia. In Europe stringent steps are taken to ensure the safety of wild
mushrooms sold, but horror stories are still too numerous. In France,
chemists display charts and are agents to identify mushrooms found by
amateur collectors. In Hungary, there is an inspection service at large
markets and sellers must firstly present their produce for verification and
certified stamping as to them being edible, before they can be sold in the
market.

From my discussions within the industry and with botanists and

mycologists, the general feeling is that there should be an accreditation
scheme for those selling wild fungi. It is up to the industry to act on this.

After the slides we will examine the fresh produce on the tables then
proceed to enjoy an array of prepared mushrooms in the style of an
antipasto, during which time I will answer questions. To conclude, we will
look at slides of dishes from our restaurant featuring mushrooms.

Sunnybrae Country Restaurant and Cooking School is located on a 28

acre property on the outskirts of Birregurra, about 1½ hours west of
Melbourne. It is open on weekends and conducts hands on cooking
classes during the week. It has a large organic vegetable garden and we
relish being able to showcase the produce of the area.

Our Cooking Class Program also includes wild fungi, with trips to the
forests to pick and identify them then cook and preserve them in our
teaching kitchen.

Diane and I welcome you to our area.

George Biron
SLIDES - Kindly loaned by Bruce Fuhrer

1 Agaricus augustus (the Prince). Edible, good flavours, can be hard

to identify.

2 Agaricus xanthodermus (Yellow Stainer). Poisonous, most

commonly confused with field mushrooms, stains yellow when
scratched. Beware.

3 Amanita muscaria (Fly Agaric). Poisonous, easy to confuse when

tiny or when fully-grown after rain..

4 Coprinus comatus (Shaggy Inkcap). Edible and choice when young

- easy to confuse with smooth, poisonous variety. Not to be eaten
together with alcohol.

5 Pleuroteus ratenbrii. A form of native Oyster mushroom. I do not

advise eating any mushroom of this shape as they are very easy to
confuse.

6/7/8 Omphalotus nidiformus (Ghost Fungus). Notice similarity to last

mushroom and the commercially grown oyster mushroom. Last
slide taken at night - luminescent.

9 Hohenbuhelia. Another of this confusing form. Edibility unknown.

10 Hydnum repandun (Hedgehog). Edible, choice. Seek expert ID for

this.

11 Flamulina velutipes. Edible, cosmopolitan, on dead wood. Again

seek expert ID.

12 Suillus luteus (Slippery Jack). Edible, closest mushroom to Porcini -

near pine trees, easy to identify. A good one to begin with.

13 Suillus granulatus. Edible, near pines.

14 Lactarius deliciosus (Saffron Milkcap). Edible, good texture, near

pines - another good one for the beginner collector but beware -
there is a Woolly Lactarius with a hairy edge around its rim which is
poisonous.

15 Leucoagricus naucinus. Resembles field mushroom but is white all

over including the gills. Regarded as edible but do not touch, as it
is easily confused with other poisonous species.

16 Macrolepiota konradii. In the family of parasols. Hard to identify so

leave it alone.
17 Hericium clathroides. Spectacular, edible, grows mainly on Myrtle
Beech.

18 Fistulina hepatica (Beef Steak Fungus). Grows on living or dead

wood, spectacular, edible and choice - but not one for beginners.

19 Scleroderma. Purplish black inside - poisonous - no it is not a

truffle.

20 Auricularia polytricha (Black Fungus). Edible but not one for

beginners.

21 Craterellus cornucopioides (Horn of Plenty). Native form of Trompe

De Mort. Edible - with positive ID.

22 Cyttaria gunnii (Beech Orange). Grows on living Myrtle Beech. Was

eaten by the Aborigines.

23 Gyormitra esculenta (False Morel). Poisonous.

24 Morchella elata (Morel). Edible, choice, occurs after fires.

SLIDES FROM SUNNYBRAE

* Fresh Porcini with garden leeks and wild duck stock

* Rice noodle buttons with black fungus, shimenji, tiny oyster

mushrooms on a salad of perilla, Thai basil with Kim Chi flavours

* Roasted local hare with chanterelles, trompe de mort and an array

of onions and beetroot

* Fillets of school whiting with black and white fungi, tiny oyster
mushrooms, Portarlington mussels and saffron sauce

* Glenloth squab with fresh borlotti beans, fairy ring and chestnut
mushrooms

* The vegetable garden at Sunnybrae

* Drying locally picked mushrooms

FRESH MUSHROOMS ON THE TABLE THE ANTIPASTO
On The Table
White Mushrooms Wild
________________ 1
Buttons ________________
Flats ________________ ____________________________
Large Caps ________________ 2

____________________________
Shiitake ________________
3
1 ____________________________
2 ____________________________
____________________________
3 ____________________________
4

Swiss Brown ____________________________

________________ 5
Honey Brown
________________ ____________________________

Portabello ________________ 6

____________________________
Oyster Mushrooms
________________ 1 _______________________
1 ____________________________ _____________________________
2 ____________________________ _____________________________
3 ____________________________ _____________________________
_____________________________
Chestnut Mushrooms
________________ 2 _______________________
Shimengi ________________ _____________________________
Enoki ________________ _____________________________
Black Fungus _____________________________
________________ _____________________________
White Fungus
________________
Slippery Jacks 3 _______________________
(Suillus luteus) ________________ _____________________________
Saffron Milkcaps ________________ _____________________________
Porcini Boletus edulis _____________________________
________________ _____________________________
Namenko ________________
4 _______________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
5 _______________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
6 _______________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
_____________________________

I WOULD LIKE TO THANK

* Dr Tom May - Mycologist Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne. A
living example of “Mycologists having more fungi”

* Deborah Saunders - ‘Culinary Wizard’ for help with cooking and

styling (03 9844 3269)

* Bruce Fuhrer, author and photographer, for the loan of his beautiful
slides.

* Tony Leonardis ‘Just Mushrooms’ - Wholesale, exotic, wild and

cultivated mushrooms
(03 9696 9697)

* Ian Hall ‘Crop and Food’ Private Bag 50034, Mosgiel New Zealand.
Truffle Research, also Matsutake and Boletus edulis. (64 3489 3908,
Fax 64 3489 3739)

* Helen Faris, Karen Stott and Andrew Broderick from The School of
Horticulture, University of Western Sydney, Hawkesbury. Morel :
Lepista cultivation. (045 701 314)

* Michael Brown, ‘Huon Valley Mushrooms’, Glen Huon, Tasmania.

Shiitake, honeybrown and other exotic species. (002 666 333)

* Nick Malajczuk & Bill Dunstan, CSIRO, Perth, Mychorizzal Research,

matsutake Boletus edulis. (09 387 0675)

* Roslyn Grundy & Staff at ‘The Age’ Library Melbourne.

* Stephanie Wood, ‘The Age’ Epicure

* Stephanie Alexander, author, restaurateur

* Gail Thomas, Journalist, Geelong (03 5278 7572)

* Jeff Lee ‘Gourmet Mushrooms’ Wandin North. Shiitake grower. Jeff

kindly supplied the logs of shiitake. (03 5964 2441)
* Mr Yen Lee, ‘Lee Mushrooms’, Yarra Glen. Largest grower of oyster
mushrooms in Victoria. (03 9730 1618)

* Cameron Russell, Victoria Market, speciality produce stall and

mushroom tours.
(03 9525 8263 or 015 317 299)

* Jeremy Jaegger ‘Fresh & Wild’. Wholesale fresh and wild

mushrooms - also truffles.
(03 9687 6894)

* Dr Peter Stahle, ‘DPS Strategy’, Commercial Consultant - truffle

cultivation.
(03 9428 5978)

* Michele Round, Mushroom Growers Association, Tasmania. Food and

Wine Consultancy - catering (03 6228 7391 Fax 03 6228 4255)
* Doug Draper, Wholesaler of cultivated and exotic mushrooms
(039758 8384)

* Joe Willner, ‘Glanmire Trading’ Mt Lawley, WA - exotic produce

including Kalahari truffles (09 272 2607)

* A very special thanks to ‘Gardens by Night’ for the

beautiful mushroom lights. 44 Garden Street Sth
Yarra, 03 9827 4977

REFERENCES

Mushrooms Demystified , David Arora,

10 Speed Press, 1986, ISBN O 89815 567 8 (Best General
Reference)

A Field Guide to Australian Fungi - Bruce Fuhrer,

Five Mile Press, 1985, ISBN O 9598704 70

Handbook of Australian Fungi, M C Cooke, 1892

Collection of Tony Leonardis ‘Just Mushrooms’, 133 Market St
Sth Melbourne

Toadstools & Mushrooms and Other Larger Fungi of Sth Australia, J Burton
Clealand MD,
Govt Printer of SA, 1934-5

A Morel Hunter’s Companion, Nancy Smith Weber,

Thunder Bay Press, Lansing Michigan, 1995, ISBN 1-882376-
16-1

The Ultimate Mushroom Book, Peter Jordan & Stephen Wheeler

 Reed Editions, 1995, ISBN 1-85967 092

Mushrooms and other Fungi of Great Britain and Europe, Roger Phillips
Macmillian 1981 ISBN O - 330 26441 9 (Best for photographic
identification)

A Passion for Mushrooms, Antonio Carluccio,

Pavilion Books, 1989,. ISBN 1 85145542 - 6 (Best for recipes)

A Debt to Pleasure, John Lancaster,

Macmillian, 1996, ISBN O 333 66940 - 1 (The last chapter)