Dhaulagiri (2)

The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to
the Bheri. This massif is enclosed on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri and on the
southeast by Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri I at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) ranks seventh among
Earth's fourteen peaks over eight thousand metres. It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a
Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.
The mountain's name is (dhaulgir) in Nepali. This comes from Sanskrit where
(dhawala) means dazzling, white, beautiful
[2]
and (giri) means mountain.
[3]
Dhaulagiri I is also
the highest point of the Gandaki river basin.
Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545 ft) is only 34 km. east of Dhaulagiri I. The Kali Gandaki River flows
between through its notable gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of
the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both
ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.
Contents
[hide]
1 Geography
2 Dhaulagiri I climbing history
o 2.1 Partial timeline
3 Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri Himalaya
o 3.1 Climbing history
4 See also
5 References
6 Sources
7 External links

Geography
Looking north from the plains of India, most 8,000-metre peaks are obscured by nearer mountains,
but in clear weather Dhaulagiri I is conspicuous from northern Bihar
[4]
and as far south
as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh. In 1808 A.D. survey computations showed it to be the highest
mountain yet surveyed.
[5]
This lasted until 1838 when Kangchenjunga took its place, followed
by Mount Everest in 1858.
Dhaulagiri I's sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m (22,970 ft)
from the Kali Gandaki River 30 km to the southeast. The south and west faces rise
precipitously over 4,000 m (13,120 ft). The south face of Gurja Himal in the same massif is
also notably immense.
Dhaulagiri I climbing history
Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made
from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.
[6]
Between
1950 and 2006, 2.88% of 2,016 expedition members and staff going above base camp on Dhaulagiri
I died. On all 8,000 metre peaks in Nepal the death rate was 1.63%, ranging from 0.65% on Cho
Oyu to 4.04% on Annapurna I and 3.05% on Manaslu.
[7]

Partial timeline
1950 Dhaulagiri I reconnoitered by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog. They do not
see a feasible route and switch to Annapurna, where they make the first ascent of an 8000 m
peak.
19531958 Five expeditions attempt the north face, or "Pear Buttress", route.
1959 Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec makes the first attempt on the northeast ridge.
1960 Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Max Eiselin, successful ascent by Kurt Diemberger, P.
Diener, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert, Nyima Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Dorje Sherpa on May 13.
[8]
First
Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft, which eventually crashed in Hidden
Valley north of the mountain during takeoff and was abandoned.
[9]

1969 American team led by Boyd Everett attempt southeast ridge; seven team members,
including Everett, are killed in an avalanche.
1970 second ascent, via the northeast ridge by a Japanese expedition led by Tokufu Ohta and
Shoji Imanari. Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa reach the summit.
[10]

1973 American team led by James Morrissey makes third ascent via the northeast ridge.
Summit team: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, Nawang Samden Sherpa.
1975 Japanese team led by Takashi Amemiya attempts southwest ridge (also known as the
south pillar). Six are killed in an avalanche.
1976 Italian expedition makes the fourth ascent.
1977 International team led by Reinhold Messner attempts the south face.
1978, spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition that puts five members on the summit via the
southwest ridgethe first ascent not using the northeast ridge. One team member dies during
the ascent.
1978, autumn Seiko Tanaka of Japan leads successful climb of the very difficult southeast
ridge. Four are killed during the ascent. French team attempts the southwest buttress (also
called the "south buttress"), only reaches 7,200 m.
1980 A four-man team consisting of Polish climbers Voytek Kurtyka, Ludwik Wiczyczynski,
Frenchman Ren Ghilini and Scotsman Alex MacIntyre climb the east face, topping out at 7,500
m on the northeast ridge. After a bivouac they descend back to base camp in a storm. One week
later they climb the mountain via the northeast ridge reaching the summit on May 18.
[11]