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Index Bobbrn Bobbin case Bobbin thread Buttonholing Carrying case cover Cleanrng Dual feed Electrical connection Foot control Foot control receptacle Light bulb Machine feed Master selector dial Needle Needle position Oiling Ornamental stitches Overlock seam Presser bar lifter Reverse sewing Sewing feet Sewing mechanism Slot-threading Special accessories Special sewing feet Stitch program chart Straight stitch Thread cutter Thread tensions Trouble shooting Upper threading Utility-stitch combinations Utility stitches Winding Work support Zigzag stitch

Page .3,4 3, 5 7 20, 21 1 23 10 2 2 1 23 9 8 13 9 23 15 18, 19 10 9 1 2, 1 6 3 6 22 17 26-30 8 7 11 24, 25 6 16 1 3, 14 4 5 8

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Parts of your sewing machine

Some safety rules 1, Be careful when sewing that your fingers will not be injured by the needle. 2. Make sure you pull out the power cord plug whenever you want to change needle, sewing foot, bobbin or needle plate, when you clean and oil the machine, or when you have to interrupt sewing and leave the machine for a while, 3. Be sure to use only a 15-watt light bulb in the sewing lamp.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

Take-up ever Thread retainer stud Eraser button Top cover lid Spool pins Pattern start selector wheel Pattern length selector wheel Bobbin winder Balance wheel with stop motion knob Master selector dial Needle position knob Buttonhole control Master switch Base of portable machines Bed cover Sewing foot Sewing foot holder Needle threader Needle threader control Upper tension Control for reverse sewing and dropping the feed dog Presser bar lifter (on back of machine arm) Top feeding foot with thread cutter Needle holder with screw Needle plate with guide grooves Free arm Free arm cover (enclosing sewing hook)

IMPORTANTl Valid for United Kingdom only The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue: Neutral, Brown: Live. As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows: The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red, Please note: When a 13-ampere plug is used a 3-ampere fuse has to be fitted.

Removing the carrying case cover Press down catches A (as indicated by arrows) and swing them outwards. Then lift the cover off. To replace the cover, reverse this sequence. To open the sewing box lift catches B. Then open the top cover sections.

Foot control receptacle Remove this receptacle from the machine. Before you put the machine away after sewing, replace the receptacle in its origi nal position. On model 1216 place it on the bedplate, on model 1217 push it into the free arm.

1216

1217

EIectrica connection Push plug A into the machine socket and plug B into the wall socket. Press master switch 13. Your machine is now switched on and ready for sewing.

Foot contre Place the Foot control under the table. Press down its pedal. The machine starts sewing. The more the pedal is depressed, the faster the machine vvill run.

Removing bobbin case and bobbin Raise the needle. Remove bed cover 15 or open free arm cap 27. Lift larch A, pull out the bobbin case, release the latch arid take out the bobbin. The bobbin cannot fall out as long as you keep latch A raised.

Disengaging the sewing mechanism Before you start winding the bobbin, disengage the sewing mechanism. Hold the balance wheel steady and turn the stop motion knob toward you. After bobbin winding, tighten the knob again.

Bobbin winding Raise pins 5. Disengage the sewing mechanism. Place a bobbin on magnetic disc A and a spool of thread on one of the spool pins. Pass the thread around thread retainer stud 2, wind it around the bobbin a few times, as indicated by the arrow. Push ever 8 against the bobbin to start the bobbin winder and hold the thread end at the beginning. The bobbin winder stops when the bobbin is full. If you want to stop the bobbin wind er earlier, pull lever 8 forwards, Remove the bobbin and cut the thread. Re-engage the sewing mechanism.

Inserting the bobbin Insert the filled bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread unreels toward the back (A>. Then draw the thread into slot B and under the spring into eye C.

inserting the bobbin case Lift latch A and push the bobbin case onto stud B as tar as t will go, making sure slot C points upwards. Release the latch. Latch A and stud B must be flush.

Attaching the work support 1216: Turn over the foot control receptack and attach t (A). 1217: Push the workplate over the free arm until its guide pins enter the two holes (B).

Upper threading Pull the thread from the spool and draw it into slot A, guide B and take-up lever 1, Then pull it into guide C and thread guide D on the needle holder,

Threadhig the neede Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the needle and take-up lever 1 (see drawing) Push needle threader control 19 down all the way. Draw the thread under fingers A and 8, at the same time releasing control 19 and the thread. As you do this, the thread is pulled through the needle eye. Then pull the thread through the needle eye completely.

and hack under the sewing toot.

needle moves down and up aqain and the takeup lever is up. Pull the bobbin thread out of the needle hole and lay both threads toward the left

Drawing up the bobbin thread Hold the needle thread a little taut. Turn balance wheel 9 toward you until the

Thread cutter The thread cutter is located at the hack c top feeding foot 23. Pull the work out of the machine toward the back. Place the threads n thread cut ter slot A and pull them downwards to ci them.

Master selector dial (10) Turn the outer ring until the symbol of the straight or zigzag stitch desired is position ed above mark A.

Straight stitch Straight stitches are located in the range from 0 or 4.

Zigzag stitch Setting mark = A Zigzag stitches are sewn in the ranges marked 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. At the right of this range, the stitches are close together; toward the left, the zigzag stitches become increasingly longer. In ranges 4 and 5 a long, narrow zigzag stitch is made.

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Needle position The needle can be set to different posi tions in the needle hole. Turn knob 11 until the symbol of the needle position desired is positioned below mark A.
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Central (normal) needle position Right needle position Left needle position

Reverse sewing and dropping the feed dog Reverse-feed control 21 has the fol(owin positions: A = Normal position B = As long a-s the control is pressed, the machine sews backwards (for backtacking the end of a seam(. C = Vertical position. The machine se permanently in reverse. D = The feed dog is dropped (for embroidering, darning, etc I.

4
7-

VI

Presser bar lifter Lever 22 has two positions: A = Sewing foot is raised. (Before you remove the work, turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the needle and take-up lever 1.) B = The sewing foot is lowered for sewing.

Dual feed (Synchronized top and bottom feed) This feed mechanism prevents one ply from creeping ahead of the other. Before you engage or disengage the dual feed, raise the sewing foot, To engage: Push top feeding foot 23 down until it snaps into place. To disengage: Push the top feeding foot down slightly, then pull it back and let it swing up.

Upper tension (20) A = Setting mark. The normal tension setting is in the light-coloured range between 3 and 5, depending on the work. The higher the num ber, the tighter the tension. Lower tension B = Regulating screw. Turn it left for a looser tension, or right for a tighter tension. C = Correct thread tension. D = Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. E = Lower tension too loose or upper tension too tight.

The correct ower tension Let the bobbin case with a full bobbin hang down freely by the thread. It must not slTde down by its own weight, but should gradually move downwards wher you jerk your hand upwards lightly. Once the lower tension has been set cor rectly, adjust the upper tension only.

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Changing the needle Raise the needle bar. Then hold the needle, loosen screw A and pull the needle out of the needle holder. Insert a new System 130/705 H needle )with the flat side of its shank facing toward the back) and push it up into the needle hold er as far as it will go. Tighten screw A.

Utility stitches Open top cover lid 4. A Elastic stitch B Blindstitch C Elastic triple straight stitch D Overlock stitch E Cross stitch 3 Eraser button for releasing pressed buttons,

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UtiHty-stitch setting The setting of master selector dial 10/11 which is required for a specific utility stitch is indicated on the respective but ton. Setting: A = Press the button B = Turn the master selector dial All stitches and stitch combinations are listed in the stitch program chart on pages 26-30. This chart also contains possible applications.

Utiity-stitch combinations Pushing two buttons simultaneously pro duces new utility-stitch patterns. I Honeycomb stitch Setting: buttons A + C, straight stitch 4, left needle position. H Pullover stitch Setting: buttons B + C, straight stitch 4, left needle position. For utility-stitch combinations A to E in conjunction with ornamental-stitch button J turn pattern start selector wheel 6 to the start-of-pattern symbol (see next page>.

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Ornamental stitches Buttons F to J show ornamental stitches. (They are set as utility stitches). The pattern length can be varied by turn ing wheel 7 in the range from 10 to 18. (When turned to symbol- o:;the orna mental stitches are disengaged) Wheel 6 serves to set the machine at the beginning of the pattern. (For setting see drawing.) Letters K and L denote the setting marks. Variations of the pattern can be obtained by setting the needle at its left, central or right position.

The following symbols are used on the pattern start selector wheel: OZsfl1D <> <1Ii Beginning of pattern One quarter of pattern Half the pattern Beginning of small square wF sewing ornamental stitch H Three quarters of pattern

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Ornamentalstitch combinations Pushing two or three buttons simulta neously produces new ornamental-stitch patterns (see stitch program chart on pages 26-30).

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Special sewing feet Zipper (and edge stitching) foot Attach the foot offset to the right or left. Set the needle position accordingly. Guide the workpiece so that the edge of the zip per foot moves along the zipper chain on the right or left, respectively. Top illustration: Foot in left-edge position. needle in left position Left edge of foot moves along zipper chain. Bottom illustration: Foot in right-edge position, needle in right position. Right edge of foot moves along zipper chain. The needle hole in the middle of the foot is used for inserting zippers concealed so

as to resemble a seam. For this purpose, attach the foot in the central position an set the needle in its central position. The zipper chain moves along the grooves in the sole of the sewing foot. Top illustration: When the blindstitch foot is used guide the folded edge of th material along edge guide A. The needle position is regulated by turning the needi position knob accordingly. Bottom illustration: Push the darning fo over the retaining fork of the sewing fool holder and push it up at the front so thai stud B enters slots C.

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Overlook seam The overlock stitch is used for sewing along an edge and simultaneously finishing it with an edge-thread effect. Insert the material so that its edge runs along edge guide E (top ill.). At the end of the seam raise the sewing foot. Then press ejector lever F (bottom ill.) to release the thread from the thread puller. Remove the work by pulling it toward the rear (ill, at top right) and trim the threads.

Edge-finshng seam When the overlock button is released and the master selector dial is turned to one of the two dots in range 8 the machine sews an edge-finishing seam with an edge thread effect. The range 8 setting is illus trated below, Set the upper tension at 3.

10

Buttonhole settinq ttach the buttonhole foot. Release the push buttons. insert a fiHer cord as fol lows: Place it over rear lug A (top ill), pull it taut, and clamp it in front lug B. As you sew, arrow C moves along scale D. This serves to determine the buttonhole length (bottom ill.).

Turn knob ii to the position shown in the illustration (top). Restore this setting at the beginning of each button bole. Turn the knob clockwise only. Regulate the stitch density by turning the master selector dial in the buttonhole range from + to (bottom ill.). The stitch es must be packed together closely. Reduce the needle thread tension by 1 to 2 numbers. Begin by sewing a buttonhole on a piece of scrap material.

Sewhiq buttonholes To afford a better view of the work the buttonhole foot has been omitted from the drawings below. Pull the bottom of the buttonhole foot for ward as far as it will go. E = Sew the first buttonhole seam in the length desired. F = Push button 12 and keep it depress ed until the machine has sewn 4 to 6 bartacking stitches, then release the button. Sew the second seam the same = G length as the first. (For this, the machine is set automatically.>

Push button 12 and keep it depress ed until the machine has sewn 4 to 6 bartacking stitches. Then release the button and sew a few tying stitches. Raise the presser bar lifter to the horizontal position, remove the work and trim the threads. Pull the filler cord taut and trim it too. Cut the buttonhole open with your seam ripper, but be careful that you do not damage the bartacks and the seams.

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21

Special accessories The special accessories listed below are intended for special sewing jobs. They can be obtained from your Pfaff dealer. Not all the sewing feet listed below are at present available as snap-on feet, To attach a conventional sewing foot, remove the sewing foot holder.

Accessory Cording set Cording foot, 3 grooves (twin needle with 2.5 or 3.0 mm needle gauge) Cording toot, 5 grooves (twin needle with 1.8-, 2.0- or 2.5mm needle gauge) Cording foot, 7 grooves (twin needle with 1.4-, 1.6 or 1.8-mm needle gauge) Fringe sewing foot Straight-stitch foot
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Ordering No, 93-107560-91 93-040948-31 93 4 0950 3 1


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Sewing Operation

For cording work (needle size 80. for fine cording needle size 70)

93-040952-31 93-040943-31 93-847496-00 93-040 94 35


,

orie\ing fringes and For topstitching and sewing very delicate and soft fabrics (silk Jersey. etc.) For edge stitching For inserting zippers For felled seams For cording and appliqu work For shirring valances For eyeletting

Needle plate with round needle hole for free-arm models Edge guide with screw Zipper toot Felling toot Cording toot Zigzag shirring foot Eyeletting plate Hemmer foot Hemmer foot (shell-edge) 2.0 mm Hemmer toot (rolled edge) 1.0mm Bias binder Darning foot Zigzag Teflon foot coated sole)
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93-053077-25 98-501 000-27 93-040938-31 93-040915-35 93-847 520-06 93-040946-45 93-040934-31 93-847 546-00 93-84754700 98-055 622-00 93-040960-91 93-040955-91

For hemming edges with

Darning and embroidering For sewing plastic materials


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Forsewingcoated eguide For edge stitching

Changing the light bulb Push the light bulb up, turn it toward A and pull it out. Insert the new light bulb so that its pins move in slots C. Push it up nd turn it tovvard B.

Cleaning and oiling 1216: Remove cover 15. Pull needle plate forward and take it out. 1217: Take out the screws and remove the needle plate. Open free arm cover 27 and remove the bobbin case. Clean the parts in the vicinity of the sewing hook and the feed dog with a soft brush. Do not oil the machine because it is main tenance-free, All you have to do is put a drop of oil into the hook raceway now and then.

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Cause: 1. Machine skips stitches Needle not inserted correctly. Wrong needle used. Needle bent or blunt. Machine threaded improperly. Needle too thin for thread used.
2. Neede thread breaks For any of the above reasons.

Remedy:

Push needle up as far as it will go, its flat shank side facing toward the back. Insert system 130/705 H needle. Insert new needle. Check threading. Select needle according to Needle and Thread Chart.

Thread tension too strong. Poor-quality or knotty thread used, or thread that has become too dry by excessive storage. 3. Needle breaks Needle not pushed up as far as it will go. Needle bent. Needle too thin or too thick. Needle bent and strikes needle plate because work is pushed or pulled. Bobbin case improperly inserted.

See par. 1 above. Regulate thread tensions. Use only good-quality thread

Insert new needle and push it up as far as it will go. Insert new needle. Note Needle and Thread Chart. Let machine feed the work alone. Only guide the material lightly. When inserting the bobbin case, press against it until it snaps into place.

Cause: 4. Seam is not uniform Tension out of adjustment. Thread too thick, knotty or hard, Bobbin thread wound unevenly.

Remedy:

Kinks appear on top and bottom of material.

Check upper and lower tensions. Use first-class thread only. During bobbin winding, do not hold thread in hand, but pass it through thread retainer stud. Thread machine properly and check both tensions.

5. Machines feeds irregulady or not at all Remove needle plate and clean out lint. Lint has accumulated between tooth rows of feed dog. Flick reverse-feed control to the right. Feed dog dropped. (Reverse-feed control is at left.) 6. Machine works heavily Thread ends in hook raceway.

Remove thread ends and put a drop of oil into hook raceway.

7. Machine skips stitches in overlock seam Secure attachment in position by Overlock-stitch attachment is loose. tightening screw B securely (page 18> Check thread tensions. The seam does not look neat. 8. Fundamental rules Never run a threaded machine unless there is a piece of fabric under the sewing foot. if you have to leave the machine, even for a short while, be sure to switch off the master switch. This is particularly important when children are around.

25

Stitch program chart Jsted in this chart are the stitch program -umber, the corresponding stitch and in ines I to IV the settings for the various seam patterns.

The individual stitch programs and their application are described in more detail in the table below. 01 I 02
. .

03

04

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05

06

07
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I No.
01 02

Stitch Straight stitch Zigzag stitch

Application For all sewing operations. Versatile in application; for edge finishing, appliqu work, inserting lace, satin stitching, embroidering, darning etc. Without turning the fabric; the stitch density can he regulated accordingly. Inserting patches and darning rips on elastic fabrics. Derorating handkerchiefs, for instance. Decorating napkins, for instance. Sewing on elastic threads or covering tern/ cloth seams. A loose decorative seam for dainty clothing. Ornamentations resembling handsewn decorative seams. Invisible hems; can be adjusted to any type of fabric.

03

Buttonholes

04

Elastic stitch

05 06 07

Scallop stitch Viennese stitch Honeycomb stitch

08

Cord stitch Feather stitch, narrow

Blindstitch

08
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10

11
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13

14
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17
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No, 11 12

Stitch Elastic blindstitch Elastic blindstitch, adjustable

Application Invisible hems on elastic materials. Invisible hems on elastic matenals; the stitch length can be adapted to the fabric. Assembly and edge finishing seams on jersey fabrics. Decorative hems, for instance, on bed linen. Seams exposed to great stress which stretch under stress.
Flat, elastic reinforcing seams, for instance, on corsetry

13

Pullover stitch

14 15

Florentine stitch Elastic triple straight stitch

16

Elastic triple zigzag stitch

17

Overlock stitch

Elastic assembly and edge finishing seams on knitted fabrics. Resembling manual embroidery. Reinforcing flat edges of ornamental borders. Ornamental stitch suitable for long fabric panels.

18 19 20

Embroidery stitch Cross stitch Looped stitch

21

22

23
-S

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

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Stitch

No.

Appi icaton Decorative and stabilizing stitch for jersey. Sewing on borders and ace. Decorative seam, for instance, for decoratng place mats. Decorative stitch, for instance for embroidered blouses. Decorative stitch, for instance, for damnsk towels. Ornamental stitch, for instance, for hemming tablecloths. A conventional decorative stitch for dainty materials. A conventional decorative stitch for plain fabrics

21
22 23

Staying stitch

E stitch W stitch Balcony stitch


Lattice stitch

24

2b 26 27

Hemming sttch

Greek stitch, narrow

28

Greek stitch, wide

29

Closed overlock stitch

Covering folded fabric edges with a fancy seam. Decorative borders, for instance, on cuuch cushions. Center pattern of an ornamental border, [or instance, on childrens aresses. Decorative borders, for instance, on couch cushions.

30

Rick-rack stitch, left

31

Diamond stitch

32

Rick-rack stitch, right

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

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No. 33 Stitch Fifled scallop stitch, left, small Double scallop stitch Filled scallop stitch, right, long Rosette stitch, left Pearl stitch Rosette stitch, right

l1 11

c3 + iz 12

C3D + l: 12

D += 12

:z 12

Application Suitable for decorative borders, for instance, j on childrens dresses. Floral patterns. Floral patterns.

34 35

36 37 38

Decorative border, for instance, for bed linen, Decorative pattern, for instance, on curtains. Decorative borders, for instance, on bed room fabrics, Fancy stitch, for instance, for national costumes. Sevving over rnulticoloured wool threads. Border pattern, for instance, for place mats. Ornamental borders, for instance, on collars or cuffs. J

Ladder stitch, left

40 41

Domino stitch Ladder stitch, right Scallop stitch, small

42

43

44

45
7

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

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No. 43

Stitch Scallop stitch, large

Application Decorative borders, for instance, on highgrade bed linen. Border pattern, for instance, on embroidered shoulder bags. Border pattern, for instance, on embroidered bands. Decorative borders, for instance, on embroidered scarves. Embroidery motif, for instance, on summer blouses. Fancy stitch, for instance, for nursery fabrics. Embroidery motif, for instance, for shopping bags. Fancy pattern, for instance, for wall hangings. Decorative motif, for instance, on edges. Flexible seam for joining two fabric plies and at the same time finishing their edges. Especially for knitted fabrics. Finishing raw edges. The edge thread protects the edge against chafing.

44

Picot stitch

Picot stitch

46

Wafer stitch

47

Semi-dart stitch, left

48 49

Semi-dart stitch, left, small Arrow head stitch

50 51 52

Semi-dart stitch, right Stretch stitch Overiock stitch with edge-thread effect

Serging seam with edge-thread effect

PFAFF-HANDELSGESELLSCHAFT fr Haushaftnhmaschjrjen mbH, 7500 Karlsruhe 41 WestGermany

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