FEBRUARY 2012

Urbane fox
SMART AND BRIGHT SPRING TAILORING / CLASSIC WATCH AUCTIONS / PRIVATE(ISH) JETS
AN AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI / 2012S MUST-HAVE TECH / SPAINS BORDEAUX-BEATING WINE
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY
1932 COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005
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Villeret Collection
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CONTENTS | BRUMMELL 09
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses, says David Charters and, he
argues, it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object
The leaner, greener, new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News
Faberg returns to London; a British car
manufacturer is reborn; and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Lpez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja. Now, its vintages
are desirable, collectible and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury,
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled: the new screen, sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpes Ries/Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for product with his
Gentlemens Tonic grooming salons
Features
Travel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queen
oers safaris from a very dierent angle
Suiting
It may be bespoke for the personal touch, but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette, look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour, as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces, from
around 50 to over 1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso: the bold Italian designer
who says were ready for more amboyance
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Contents
Show Media
Brummell editorial
020 3222 0101
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette Hedoin
Copy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising & Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncan@yingcoloursmarketing.com
07816 218059
showmedia.net
brummell@showmedia.net
Visit Brummells website for
more tailor-made content:
brummellmagazine.net
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, groupfmg.com
Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News. All material
Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited. While every
eort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication, no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press. 5 (where sold). Reader oers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the oer Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding oers.
Cover illustration
by Brett Ryder
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41
The Notting Hill location for this issues style shoot was designed by architect Tchaik
Chassay for David Hockney. When the artist moved to LA, Chassay moved in with his
wife Melissa. The couple are the subject of one of Hockneys best known portraits.
Tchaik wears: glasses,
290, Cutler & Gross;
linen jacket, 995, and
cotton linen trousers,
550, both Burberry
Prorsum; print shirt,
175, Burberry Brit
Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back, and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conict of interest
Its that time of year again, when we suer slings and arrows for earning outrageous
fortunes. We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward, not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this
year? Of course you do. We all do. If for nothing
else, because of all the A words ambition,
avarice and, of course, awesomeness.
The problem is that a whole bunch of
people who ought to know better have seized
on the credit crunch as an excuse for payback
time against all the people they knew at
university who have outshone and above all
out-earned them by going into the City rather
than something dodgy and unethical like
politics or journalism.
No one with as many as two brain cells to
rub together would ever seek to minimise the
impact of the crunch. It was huge far bigger
than anything any of us had experienced in our
careers up to that point. And it is undeniably
true that getting over it will take years and
come at great cost.
But demonising an entire industry, most of
whom had not the remotest connection with the
very specic areas that got us all into trouble, is
intellectually dishonest. Other industries have
their moments too try pharmaceuticals, or the
nuclear industry, or oil and gas but we are
sufciently rational not to interfere with the
parameters within which they operate.
Investment banking is diferent. Bankers
make better targets than oilmen because what
we do seems so remote, our work (and often
our successes) so abstract, that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable.
As an industry, we have been lamentable
at explaining the positive impact that we
deliver. And in todays world, winning on the
battleeld is not enough you have to win the
media war as well. When politicians fail, they
rarely come clean and take responsibility.
Regulators and civil servants certainly dont.
And of course the media are never wrong.
So when something really bad happens, the
rst priority is to nd a scapegoat. The ideal
scapegoat with a big target stuck to his back
is someone that most other people dont know,
or if they do know, dont particularly relate to.
Bankers as a generic group are ideal. The fact
Target pracice
that bankers do a myriad diferent things is an
inconvenient detail best swept under the carpet.
What many people dont understand is
why bankers need to be paid in the way they are.
That is because most people have never worked
as investment bankers and indeed could not or
in some cases would rationally decide not to,
given the demands and the sacrices required.
Traditionally, in a business where
revenues are lumpy and unpredictable, every
rm wants to keep its xed overheads to a
minimum. But, by the same token, in a highly
mobile job market, signicant success for the
rm should be rewarded by equivalent success
for the individual. Given the scale of the
ambitions at work in investment banking
and here we really do need to tell the story
of our achievements for governments,
corporates and ultimately society as a whole
we should be incentivising people to aim for
the stars, and reward them in a stellar way if
they deliver. To me, none of that should be
controversial, any more than rewarding stellar
talent in other elds.
The problem is that we failed as an
industry to implement our own system
properly. If we had stuck to rst principles,
then we might not be in the position we are in
today. By the time of the crunch, the system
that had led to such huge growth and great
success in investment banking, turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnet,
had become distorted.
Unhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in. Bonuses were no longer that a
dividend, a reward but instead were
expected. Top achievers did justiably well,
but the mediocre middle did relatively far too
well. Super-managers did astronomically well,
often without actually meeting any clients or
taking any trading decisions themselves. Too
much was paid out in cash rather than being
held back, and there was clear and logical
potential for a conict of interest between the
risk-takers and their owners. And no one
should ever be paid a bonus for unrealised
prots how crazy is that?
So the system we had invented, and which
turned us all into tigers, had become warped
and distorted. It no longer served the interests
it was meant to, and when things went wrong,
it is hardly surprising that we were criticised.
But before anyone tries anything too
radical particularly if the anyone in question
happens to be one of the many who have felt
for years that they had their noses pressed
against the glass, looking in at the glorious
world of the City can we have a go at sorting
this out ourselves? By which I mean doing
bonuses properly again.
It would mean managers managing,
taking tough decisions, possibly themselves
agreeing to forego some of what they have
come to regard as their entitlement pay
for organisational seniority rather than
revenues they have generated themselves, and
perhaps leading once more from the front.
The most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managers
to the end, regardless of seniority, always
pitching business, cultivating clients and
overseeing transactions.
If we dont get this right, others will do it
for us. It may already be too late, but at least
lets try, and lets engage actively and with
humility with the people who may otherwise
mess things up, in some cases with the best
and most honourable of intentions. If we dont
tell our story in 2012, no one will.
The Egos Nest, the fth novel by David Charters
about City anti-hero Dave Hart, is published by
Elliott and Thompson, price 6.99
FOREWORD | BRUMMELL 13
TRANSOCEAN NAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLING. COM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01, Breitling has created the most reliable, accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certied by the COSC. A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the eld of mechanical chronographs.
One heart Three legends
For your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
The sleek, sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 15
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleys new Continental GT V8. Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT rst appeared in 2003 with a vast,
six-litre, W12 engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph. The Conti
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time,
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world. Enter the new four-litre,
V8 version. The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-ecient than the W12, yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 4.9 seconds, just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate. It remains, of course,
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet, at 122,000, the basic V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 although
the latter will remain available for those who
still cant accept that size really doesnt matter
Available at HR Owen; hrowen.co.uk;
bentleymotors.com
MONEY NO
OBJECT
T H E 4 . 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured: 4.8litre Morgan Plus 8. Fuel economy: 25.2mpg (Combined) CO2
:
269gr/km. Price: 71,000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technology
from the aircraft industry to achieve an unladen
weight of 1150kgs. This makes the car the lightest
V8 passenger car in the world. One of the stiffest
in its class; The aluminium chassis braces the
mighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual or
automatic gearbox. With a truly coachbuilt body
handcrafted onto this, the car can then be built
bespoke to your taste down to the last detail.
Superbly responsive, the car is the ideal companion
on country and urban roads. You can have all the fun
possible in a car with a clear conscience that impact
on nature is kept at a minimum.
For more information please visit
www.morgan-motor.co.uk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
NEWS | BEAUMONDE 17
Hand-picked holiday homes, masterpieces of photography and the nest footwear
Ski here
For many City ski enthusiasts,
mid-March has, for the past 10 years
or so, meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italys Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships. However, this years
event is at a new destination, and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana, Switzerland, with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun. Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKs best stand-up comedians,
including TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound, with music from The Feeling.
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development mainly in the building
of ve-star hotels and luxury chalets.
The ski area is topped with a glacier,
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs.
Its a lot of fun very much like the
nightlife. 15-18 March. Packages
from 665pp for three days;
momentumskifestival.com
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe, chosen by the
duo running the company. They say they
turn down more properties than they list,
claiming to be very picky. Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet; you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard in
location, accommodation, services and
every luxury. Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home, pictured or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic a colonial-style
villa ve minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course, you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience. sjvillas.co.uk
Horse play
As suggested by its name, Breitlings Colt
newly redesigned oers a fresh, youthful
and dynamic style, balanced with sturdiness
and comfort. Available in three versions
including a chronograph (pictured above) and
a wonens watch the Colt oers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres.
Sophisticated, sporty and playful: a winning
combination for a spirited character. 3,110;
breitling.com
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could be
forgiven for nding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors, but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback. Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Coreld bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year. The story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be told, says
Coreld. It was a company that was ahead of
its time, but stopped dead by the outbreak of
war. The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but, thankfully, there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul. Prices
from 80,000; atalantamotors.com
Eves eye
The late, great, Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical. A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month,
presenting over 100 images. All About Eve
oers a wide range of work drawn from her
personal archive, including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe, portraits of other Hollywood
legends, and many political gures, often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency. It also outlines Arnolds
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people. In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen. Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable. All About Eve is at Art Sensus,
2 March27 April; artsensus.com
Well shod
They say you can judge a man by the shoes hes
wearing, and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasons boots, you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin. Youll nd his shop
situated on east Londons Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British: Chelsea
boots, brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail, shape, style and quality. And,
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced), youll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint.
justindeakin.com
Art beat
TEFAF Maastricht, is known as the
worlds leading art and antiques fair,
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor, as well as objects reecting
7,000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars, such as the Je Kons edition
pictured). A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces oered by more than
260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries. The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures: 29 committees,
made up of over 170 experts in
every eld of art represented at the
fair, verify each and every object for
quality, authenticity and condition, so
visitors always buy with condence.
To celebrate its silver jubilee, this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings, including works
by Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens and
Rembrandt. 16-25 March; tefaf.com
BEAUMONDE | NEWS 18
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Faberg
has returned to London with a
brand new agship store on
Mayfairs Grafton Street.
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancy
stones, Faberg now produces a
range of handmade mens and
womens watches in addition to
ne jewellery. Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 diferent
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing. An opulent
love token indeed. faberge.com
BEAUMONDE | WINE 20
more dicult to sell. How times change. Over the
last two or three years, Lpez de Heredias agship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers. Meanwhile, general manager Mara-
Jos Lpez de Heredia, great-granddaughter
of the founder, nds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami, Tokyo or London.
Mara-Jos is delighted by her familys new-
found fame. Not least, because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it. We
never set out to be fashionable. We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can, wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir. We havent changed
at all. It is the market that has come back to us.
Not that long ago, the wines of Lpez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap. Now, with
collectors clamouring for them, they are moving
up in price. Even so, they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux.
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Lpez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnicent fungus-covered cellars
largely due to the previous lack of demand. There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone, going back to the 1885.
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself, including the legendary 64
at 600 a bottle or the 42 (closer to 1,000).
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply. At a recent Christies sale a case
of the 64 Tondonia Crianza went for just 800.
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply. In the UK, Berry Bros & Rudd oer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva
Tinto at 95 a bottle. According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer: For this much complexity in
aged Burgundy, youd pay twice as much.
Berry Bros & Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the 87 and 91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for 95 and 65 apiece.
However, theres no hurry to drink them up, as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves. According to Mara-Jos, the
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of age. The reds take even longer.
In the last two years, London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional, fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties. Many of the
wines come direct from bodegas own cellars and
include some of Riojas most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta, Paternina, Contino, Berberana,
Riscal, Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Lpez de Heredia. According to The Samplers
Jamie Hutchinson, one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money. Wine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as 30-40 a bottle. Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to one.
lopezdeheredia.com; bbr.com; christies.com;
thesampler.co.uk
Words John Stimpg
When Spains winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol, one bodega
rejected the trend. After two
decades in the wilderness, it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja
of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic, cutting-edge statement
wineries which dot its rugged landscape. One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia; another is Frank Gehrys fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego.
But arguably, the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporary.
Founded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro, Lpez de Heredias only statement
architecture is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid. Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more. Least of all, its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking.
Over the last two decades, while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds full of power, alcohol, fruit and tannin
Lpez de Heredia did the opposite. It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant, aged red (as well as
white and ros) Riojas. Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMES
Clockwise from below: Lpez
de Heredias original 1877
bodega; the label of the great
1942 vintage; Zaha Hadids
tasting room pays respect
to the vineyards heritage
BEAUMONDE | PRIVATE JETS 22
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already ying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them. Those
using Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it, be it when theyre travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg. Having chosen my route
and date on the site, my particular ight, for
instance, comes up as costing around 750.
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what ights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat.
The more who y on a plane, the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor, the
greater availability of seats on the site.
The name, which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about, is more than an airline
call sign. Its about playing and winning, in this
case, getting the best deal on a ight, he explains.
A jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold. So instead of
paying, say, 6,000 for their aircraft, it could
now only be 2,000. Its a nice little bonus.
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious thats a given. But now,
thanks to an innovative ight-sharing
company, it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a ve per cent charge
per sale. Jackson has funded the business himself
from its concept and now, following a successful
soft launch last summer, he is seeking to raise
another 1.5m to accelerate Victors expansion.
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441,000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it.
Jackson claims that he is democratising
private jet use , but isnt exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel? Well, 87 per cent of Victors
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg).
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
oering private jet travels freedom and exibility.
It also depends who youre travelling with
some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals, others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineer, he says. Others might just say
hello and then politely ignore each other.
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have own down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing. Id have no
objection, he says, and if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thats all to the good.
yvictor.com
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years. Thanks to a BMI ight
from Heathrow, he and his wife have escaped to
the island whenever possible. So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased. But
unlike many who might simply grumble, Jackson,
who has made millions in digital marketing,
decided to do something about it.
I was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them, What can we do about this?
he remembers. The man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around 8,000 and wed have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same time.
Convinced that there must be an alternative,
Jackson began to research the demand for ights
to Mallorca. By January 2010, he believed that
there were sucient numbers to merit some kind of
service, albeit not a conventional scheduled route.
I didnt want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a plane, he says. This
platform is called Victor. Describing itself as an
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jets, Jacksons new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element, which makes
using private aviation more aordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those auent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so.
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on it so
instead of paying, say 6,000,
it could now only be 2,000
Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay, on the south west coast of Mahe, is the location for one
of the worlds nest and most exclusive beaches. The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare.
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architect
Cheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views. Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate.
Prices from US$7,250,000
LONDON: +44 20 8166 8122
sales@petiteansedevelopments.com
www.petiteansedevelopments.com
Four Seasons Private Residences Seychelles are not owned, developed or sold by Four Seasons Hotels Limited or its affliates (Four Seasonsj. The developer, Petite Anse Developments Ltd., uses the Four Seasons trademarks and tradenames under a license from Four Seasons Hotels
and Resorts Asia Pacifc Pte Ltd. The marks FOUR SEASONS", FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS," any combination thereof and the Tree Design are registered trademarks of Four Seasons Hotels Limited in Canada and U.S.A. and of Four Seasons Hotels (Barbadosj Ltd. elsewhere.
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Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring. Offering luxury from top to toe, the
Hackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style, blending formal luxury
with modernity for todays gentleman and his
lifestyle. Inspired by classic style icons from early
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TECHNOLOGY | BEAUMONDE 27
THE POWER LIST
Fresh from this years Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas,
we select the technology you should know about in the coming months,
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000
If this years key trend is the so-called smart
TV, then the movements ag bearer is
arguably this Minority Report-inspired LED
screen from Samsung. The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between, say, Twitter
and Top Gear, while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benets over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives. The rst is a
facial recognition feature that identies
the viewer, then automatically loads up your
favourite apps, channels and multimedia
content. The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels, nd programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand. Last,
but not least, a discreet slot on the back of the
set permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set.
Price yet to be announced; samsung.com/uk
FujiFilm X-Pro1
In 2011, Fujis X100 made waves: a xed-lens
camera, it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology. It had the
clout of a much larger SLR, but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica. This year, the
concept has been advanced. The X-Pro1 is the
rst X series camera to oer interchangeable
lenses, as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction.
From around 1,100; fujilm.eu/uk
Invoxia NVX 610
French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile, internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phone.
A plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental, it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype. With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls, and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously,
its ideal for business. 499; invoxia.com
Parrot Zik by Starck
These over-the-ear, noise-cancelling
headphones eectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes. First, thanks to
Bluetooth, theres no dangly cabling. Second:
a simple, gesture-based control system makes
a ddly remote control panel unnecessary.
To turn up the volume, run a nger up the
outside of the earcup; to change tracks, just
drag your digit left or right. Even better: the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on, and stops when you remove
them again. Price TBA; parrot.com/uk
TECHNOLOGY | BEAUMONDE 29
Arcam rPac
A drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance,
yet they are typically where we store our music.
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcams
little black box, the rPac. A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplier, the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macs or PCs tinny, lifeless audio. This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-
system or headphones, and the box is slim enough
to t in a laptop case. 150; arcam.co.uk
B&O Play Beolit 12
Bang & Olufsen launches its high street sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker. Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplier.
It is built to travel too, with a compartment to store cables;
leather carry handle; and a built-in battery that musters eight
hours use from a single charge. Price TBA; beoplay.com
HP Envy 14 Spectre
The vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year, and HPs glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability. The rst talking point is purely
aesthetic: the lid is made of highly resistant
Gorilla Glass (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard). Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen;
Intel Core i5 processor, NFC contactless
technology; and 128GB of solid-state storage.
From around 1,200; hp.com/uk
57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
www.purdey.com
DUEL CONTROL
A cased pair of 40-bore
intlock duelling pistols
by Joseph Manton,
circa 1815, which
sold for 18,000
GUNS | BEAUMONDE 31
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum? Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum eect
SHOT
AND
AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
11.5lbs, is 34 inches long and res between
600 and 650 rounds a minute. In terms of use,
its an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtons soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo.
The early 19th-century British infantrymans
stock rearm, the Brown Bess, red if you were
really quick three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long. Thats about ve inches less
than the height of an average soldier. It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit;
youd need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle. In 2012,
it is also one of a select group of rearms
muzzle-loaders that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence.
SHOOTING STARS
From top: A pair of 28 bore double-
barrelled percussion travelling pistols
by J. Lang, circa 1830; one of a pair
of 38 bore Silesian intlock holster pistols
which sold for 12,000; part of a pair
of 22 bore silver-mounted intlock pistols
by Barbar, circa 1770
BEAUMONDE | GUNS 32
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols, muskets
and ries. As the name suggests, they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder, as it used to be known), a bullet
and wadding down the barrel. At face value,
they may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but, as Thomas Del Mar, one of the
countrys top antique armoury specialists,
points out: Any antique rearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classied as a machine.
As a general rule of thumb, industry
insiders advise that rearms increase in value
at ve to 10 per cent above ination. Moreover,
muzzle loaders made by the great makers, such
as Manton and Purdey, have an extra rarity
value. Created with extreme skill, they often
feature extraordinary embellishments.
David Williams of Bonhams observes that,
while these weapons may have been built for
a grimly practical purpose in their day, their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts: Theyre beautifully decorated
and made. Its why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury. Theyre
works of art in their own right.
As such, they can come with quite
substantial price tags. At its next auction in
April, Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks, with an estimated value of
40,000-60,000. At Thomas Del Mars
June sale, in conjunction with Sothebys, there
are over 200 antique rearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as 200 up to
30,000. For example, a Brown Bess, in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance, may
set you back 5,000. A decent pair of English
duelling pistols which were often given by
women to their ancs as wedding presents
can cost from 6,500.
You can actually re these guns, but it wont
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good. As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger, its mandatory to acquire a rearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Oce. One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day. Youll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulng your
head every time you re but, if nothing else, it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants.
If youre interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction, Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmar.com)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December;
Bonhams (bonhams.com) has them on 18 April,
18 July and 28 November and Christies
(christies.com) on 26 June. Go to Henry Krank
& Co (henrykrank.com) to buy reproduction
weapons. And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders,
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagb.com)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyre beautifully
decorated and made. Its
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
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Bell & Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78
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information@bellross.com
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e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
EVOLUTI ON OF THE BR MI LI TARY WATCH
BEAUMONDE | AFTER THE CITY 34
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for mens grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemens Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently, Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose. Two straight
guys, who were quite happy to have that
conversation in a supermarket, he says with
the tone of a man vindicated. As founder
of mens grooming salon Gentlemens Tonic,
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation. When we opened seven years
ago, men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or wax, he says, but now theyre
more frank when talking about these things.
Youve got scrubs being advertised during the
football not shaving creams, scrubs.
Smart, fast-talking and supremely
engaged, Bonnefoy, 38, is still on a mission. A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast,
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International, running a desk that
suggested trading commodities, government
bonds and so on to clients. It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something, create
a brand. He settled on mens grooming having
looked into a variety of industries, mainly in the
food and beverage arena bars, nightclubs
and restaurants. It came less from passion than
hard gures cheaper set-up costs, no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men, a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barbers. There was the ne tradition
of Trumpers and the rest, who had been around
for 150-some years, but they only oered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
oer more. We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward, so we
created a place that made them feel comfortable.
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood, hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass, in which we talk. Here,
located just o Berkeley Square, haircuts,
wet shaves, massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by sta who wont chatter
about your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary. There are showers in every
treatment room, no wandering around in robes,
and no hanging around waiting: Men want an
ecient, clean service, an instant x, and they
are creatures of habit, they want somewhere
they can come back to again and again.
There were doubters at rst, but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side: When we
rst set out, people were talking about the
metrosexual, using examples like David
Beckham, and that helped, but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outlet. He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too. I dont think I could
have found a better city if Id tried, he says. Not
only does London have all the heritage, but its
the most international city in the world.
There are now three salons in the capital
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves &
Hawkes) and at Selfridges, keeping to the same
beat since thats where the demand is and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011. Doha and
New Delhi are next. The global perspective,
says Bonnefoy, is a hangover from his banking
years: I keep up with the nance world, I have
to. The rst 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whod moved from
London. We knew that our clients were
emigrating, thats why we went.
Much of his time is now spent abroad,
preparing for new ventures; the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private members
club. There is also an ever-expanding product
range, though Bonnefoy is aware of his clienteles
limits, even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose. He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product:
It was a pre-cleanser cleanser. I said, Do you
really think so? Men are looking for simplicity,
for routine. You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problem.
gentlemenstonic.com
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
Contac. Argento Fine Producs T. 020 7722 24 38 . www.frederique-consant.com
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TRAVEL | BRUMMELL 37
traditional lodges for minimalist chic, linear
design and vast windows: less Out of Africa
than out of Manhattan.
An air of sophisticated nonchalance
might suit the boats contemporary vibe. But
as I board at the isolated custom post of
Kasane, in the north of Botswana, my eyes
widen at what the owners call wild Africa
with whistles and bells. One half of the top
deck has the crisp elegance of a city
restaurant; the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar, all cream suede sofas, club chairs
and stainless steel stools around a counter of
white Italian marble.
Its not total design fascism. Nguni cattle
skins and huge, mesmerising paintings of
zebra eyes are stylish, low-key reminders of
our location. Both ends of the eclectic space
open onto sun decks, one sporting a plunge
pool with an angular design worthy of
Philippe Starck. Its either marvellously
modern or, if youre a dyed-in-the-wool
traditionalist, utterly bafing.
After a night serenaded by cicadas and
laughing hyena, we start with a four-wheel
safari among the 120,000 elephants of Chobe
River wild
A contemporary oating safari lodge oers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming. Im not, but I could be.
The world has a sublime, ethereal quality. Ive
been awake for mere seconds and, with
nothing more exacting than a raised eyelid, I
can see 30, perhaps 40, elephants. Theyre just
across the river from my open window, drinking
with gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn.
As hippos grunt and sh eagles shriek,
I sit up in bed, plump my pillow and immediately
spot ve more of the herd ambling down to the
water. Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa, this is the laziest
safari on earth.
Its also one of the most stylish. Im
swaddled by high-thread count cotton sheets
in a light, white, bright bedroom with oor-to-
ceiling windows and walls studded with
monochrome photographs. Nothing shouts.
Everythings understated. But for the savannah
breeze it could be Londons Hempel Hotel.
Its one of 14 en-suite cabins on the
Zambezi Queen, a converted casino boat now
cruising the Chobe River a relentless ink-
dark current bisecting the plains of Botswana
and Namibia. It has traded the ubiquitous
dark wood, tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEEN
From top: View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeck
of the Zambezi Queen; the former casino boat, with its 14
cabins, oats serenely along the Chobe River
BRUMMELL | TRAVEL 38
National Park. The wildlife is prolic without
a hint of stage fright and our drive climaxes with
the sound of lions gorging on freshly butchered
warthog. Its denitely a kill, whispers our
guide Boata. I heard the crunch of bones.
Its an incongruous environment to
experience the Zambezi Queens startling grand
design. But if I need conclusive proof that we
really are in the sticks, it comes from The Voice
newspaper: a suicide victim has reappeared as
a zombie dog; a chicken wearing a necklace
has been arrested, imprisoned and executed (I
suppose it could happen in Norfolk); and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to a
child fathered by a snake.
Lifes a tad saner on board. We head west
on the second afternoon of the three-night
cruise, and, washed by a warm tropical breeze,
the deck mutates into a Balearic beach bar.
The plunge pools packed, bikini-clad guests
recline on sun loungers and a dude in surf
shorts strums a guitar. Chilled Tafel beer and
ne Cape vino are owing freely.
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewing?
Not at all. Powered by muscular jets rather
than propellers, the three-storey craft moves
like a silently stalking predator, ghosting
alongside pods of wallowing hippo. Im sure I
saw a gargantuan bufalo do a double take.
The game viewing is immense. Barely ve
minutes pass without someone pointing
excitedly. The wiry, charismatic Brett
McDonald, who was the driving force in
restoring the boat he spotted rusting on the
banks of the Chobe in 2007, is not a man for
understatement. He claims the Chobe has the
most densely concentrated wildlife of any
riverbank on earth. Its the Galapagos of
Africa, he says. On winter days at Luguva, our
second night anchorage, youll see herds of 1,500
bufalo and up to 1,000 elephant.
We travel a modest 22km. This certainly
isnt Southern Africas answer to cruises on
the Nile, Amazon and Mekong. We dont
spend eight hours a day watching the world
slip by, he insists. We stop, explore and smell
the roses. Were a oating safari lodge.
Make that a highly exclusive oating
safari lodge. Brett owns the mooring rights to
the only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river, Its like our own private game park, he
smiles. No one else can do it.
Which begs the question: would they want
to? Converting the Queens rusting hulk in the
middle of remote wilderness without a crane,
let alone a shipyard became an obsession
reminiscent of Werner Herzogs Fitzcarraldo.
I was like Noah building the ark, he recalls.
Locals were thinking, What has possessed
this imbecile?
Perhaps they were thinking of the river.
The Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for a
large vessel. The solution is to travel with ve
small satellite boats the equivalent of lodge
Land Rovers opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and shing.
Perfect. We downsize and spend the dusk
iced sundowners in hand oating up close
and personal with generous herds of animals.
Its an aperitif for a night of bush culture where
150 aming torches straight out of a Hollywood
tribal epic kettle us into a massive boma, or
enclosure, on the Namibian shore, for impala
stew, oxtail and vigorous local dancing.
We need the exercise. Fusing safari and
cruising, the Zambezi Queen is a gourmet
hybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders in
the tourist universe. You may be an antelope
when you board, but gorge too often on
butternut and macadamia soup, llet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DAria wine, and
youll depart an elephant.
Were not the only ones with heavyweight
appetites. The tiger sh, the worlds greatest
piscene ghter, combines the teeth of Nosferatu
with the fervour of Grard Depardieu at an
all-you-can-eat bufet. For an astonishing 30
minutes on our nal night, every cast ignites
an explosion of silver-scaled fury.
High on adrenaline, we head back
towards the mothership, negotiate a river
bend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinary
modernist creation. Beneath a blue, purple
and gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset, the
illuminated craft glows like an exotic
spaceship landed in the African bush: a nal
ethereal dream-like vision.
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332; www.cazloyd.
com) ofers nine nights in Botswana including
three nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and Kwando
Lagoon Camps, including all ights and
transfers, from 4,975pp. Since this trip, Brett
McDonald has sold his share in the Zambezi
Queen to concentrate on his lodges and
tailor-made African holiday business Flame
of Africa (ameofafrica.com), but maintains
a relationship with the boat.
RIVERBOAT SONG
From top: One of the Zambezi Queens bright, contemporary
cabins, with unbeatable views of the river; smaller boats
the equivalent of a lodges Land Rovers oer close-up
views on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobe;
a beautiful and erce tiger sh
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BRIONI
TAILORING | BRUMMELL 41
Bespoke is desirable, of course, but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles. For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics, its fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
atter your form and provide instant style cred
without veering of into the more fashion-
forward foothills.
Unlike most ready-made suit jackets,
Canalis are not fused but canvassed, with a
camel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to
your shape over time, making the t unique to
you. The made-to-measure service uses a
choice of blocks, making a smart t. And, in
addition to established favourite fabrics, such
as ultra-lightweight, superne 220- and
230-micron wools, this seasons 200 new
fabrics give an almost limitless range of
possibilities. canali.it
Su Misura, Giorgio Armanis made-to-
measure service that launched in 2006, is this
season available throughout Armanis global
retail empire. I realised that I have clients who
really do want a unique product, made
specically for them, says Armani. This
season, trousers have pleated waistbands for
seated comfort while the two silhouette
collections, relaxed Linea Naturale and the
tted Linea Costruita, ofer a range of day and
evening suits. armani.com
Not to be left out of all this ne tailoring,
Gucci headlines its spring made-to-measure
ads featuring chiselled actor James Franco
poured into his perfectly tting dinner suit.
Personalised formalwear is the ultimate
way for a man to express his own style, says
Guccis creative director, Frida Giannini.
Fighting words, but hard to execute,
perhaps, when you want to look exactly like
Mr Franco. gucci.com
It is renement and attention to detail
that is making ready-to-wear and made-to-
measure suits worth investing in this year.
New British brand Rake has taken the
detailing of bespoke and loosened it up with
the possibility of buying trousers and jackets
separately and accompanying their elegantly
proportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts. With a collection that
includes linen and cotton blends as well as
wafe-weave pure wools, their half-lined
construction ofers cool ease, and comfort
comes virtually guaranteed. Available at
matchesfashion.com
With three tailoring labels, Ralph Laurens
suit ofering this season includes
monochromatic navy and tan. This is found
in the tailored Purple Label while Ralph
Laurens business-ready Black Label
brandishes razor-sharp proportions in black
and blue. The standout piece right now is a
two-button pinstripe styled with a deco-
inspired wide-dot tie. It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning the
well-made suit goes something like this: an
of-the-peg suit is made for somebody else;
a bespoke suit is made only for you. Signor
Rubinacci uttered these exact words only
the other day at the Mount Street branch of
the Neapolitan tailor albeit with a chuckle.
But there is no doubt of the mantra that he,
his clients and many others hold dear.
Anything less than hand-made tailoring is
not worth the trouble.
However, it is this very lack of bother
which make bespokes wallet-friendlier
cousins so worth checking out. Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespoke
suits are fortunate indeed: that subtle
correction of your sloping shoulder; the slight
dip at the back of the trouser to cover your
shoe heels; the tailors chalked signature; the
chosen silk linings are among bespokes
multifarious pleasures. Yet, as individualised
as they are, bespoke suits will always be made
with reference to the tailors house styles. In
fact, this season, the most exciting suits are
straight of the catwalks of Milan, London and
Paris and are ready now to pull of the hanger.
These top-end collections and made-to-
measure services are coming up trumps with
the sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkann
and give George Osborne a fright. But it
expertly shows the breadth of classic tailoring
on ofer this year. ralphlauren.com
Over at Ferragamo and E. Tautz (the
British Fashion Councils 2010 menswear
designer of the year), double-breasted suits are
making an impressive comeback. Gone are
the DBs excess-baggage details of chalk
striped wool and gaping jacket fronts. Neat,
sharp and tted, the new double-breasted is
worn fully buttoned and with a slight crop, and
is worn over slim-tting trousers. Patrick
Grant, E. Tautzs designer, took creative
inspiration for this from Felix Carvajal, a
marathon-running postman from Havana
who competed in the 1904 Olympics. Its the
sportiness of the lightweight annel that
makes these double-breasted suits so
comfortable and easy to wear.
ferragamo.com; etautz.com
For those of us who dont have to don a suit
daily, make space for Dunhills Cambedoo
blazer the wardrobes latest most versatile
weapon. The odd name comes from the region
in South Africa this exclusive mohair is from.
This particular bres benets include its
crease-resistance, as well as, astonishingly,
being stronger than steel of the same
diameter. And luckily for this overheated
season, it niftily wicks away moisture and
excess body heat. Elsewhere in Dunhills
spring/summer 2012 collection slick suits in
black and navy are leavened with retro rowing
motif silk ties. dunhill.com
Kim Joness rst collection as mens style
director at Louis Vuitton under creative
director Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix of
tailoring and sportswear united under a travel
theme. The playboy/artist Peter Beard that
dashing man who has combined James
Bond and David Attenborough in one racy,
Springs silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness. Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E. TAUTZ CANALI
TAILORING | BRUMMELL 43
Africa-centred life was the collections
handsome lodestone. Beard is a hero of mine,
says Jones. This collection is a ctionalised
imagining of that period of travel to Africa in
the Sixties and Seventies, which was the time I
was growing up in Africa. The result of this
ne inspiration is a relaxed display of sharp
grey two-button suits with rolled up hems and
cropped navy blazers over mid-grey annel
trousers and Varsity sportswear under bright
Masai-inspired red scarves. They may sound
like unlikely combinations yet are very
convincing in execution. louisvuitton.com
The suits at Aquascutum this season are
much more subdued. Using cloths developed
exclusively in English mills, long silhouettes of
summer-weight worsteds are elegant and
versatile. The companys classic cut Pritchard
suit is the houses most popular, while the
Henderson, which features a contemporary,
cropped shape, is cut from Aquascutums
best-selling high-twist fabric, making it crease
resistant. aquascutum.co.uk
It is colour that is really dening this
seasons tailoring. That great colourist himself,
artist David Hockney, is the inspiration
behind Brionis spring/summer 2012 mens
ofering. Eucalyptus, lavender, wine, royal
blue and red feature throughout the line. New
fabrics display the brands reputation for
innovation by spinning silk and nylon or
microbre to creative high-performance yet
delicate yarns. brioni.com
More subdued pastel hues are key to the
Ermenegildo Zegna spring ofering. Zegna
has done more in fabric development than
probably any other fabric company in the
world. Its this expertise in cloth that allows it
to showcase shiny silk suits in pastel hues,
crispest cotton one-button suits, as well as
matt and crafted fabrics such as silk and linen
herringbones and Prince of Wales plaids.
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cotton
and linen crepe pick up on tailorings biggest
trend while keeping shapes short and
to-the-body. zegna.com
The diversity of colour, shape, pattern and
fabrication in mens suits this spring has never
been bettered. The silhouettes continue the
ongoing trend for slim and to-the-body
neatness. Yet there is a more relaxed feel this
season. Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a
year or two ago and personal style statements
are more likely to be made with your choice of
shirt, tie and pocket square than the cut of
your jacket. Much of what is exciting about
these suit lines is under the hood where
cut-away linings, open weave fabrics and
high-tech yarns are only appreciated by you
the wearer. Even so, business attire has never
looked, well, so unbuttoned.
Your suit may not be made for you exactly,
but then again no one need ever know.
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left: Colour block
knit, 335, and trousers,
209, both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacket,
506; blue shirt, 119;
and brown trousers,
289; all Paul Smith.
Glasses, 290, Cutler
and Gross. Orange and
steel-strapped Seamaster
Planet Ocean watch,
3,700, Omega.
Socks, 12, Hackett.
Leather boots, 395,
Alexander McQueen
STYLE | BRUMMELL 45
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneys exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masters Sixties at
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger
slash
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page: Linen and cotton
jacket (part of a suit),
1,060, and trousers,
360, both Canali. Linen
shirt, 120, Hackett.
Belt, from 69, and socks,
17, both Paul Smith. Silk
square, 19.95, Harrods
Opposite: Suit, 1,000,
Gieves & Hawkes.
Shirt, 120, Hackett
STYLE | BRUMMELL 47
BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE 48
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite: Linen jacket,
450; linen trousers,
130; linen shirt, 120;
all Hackett. Glasses, as
before, Cutler and Gross.
Belt, from 69, Paul Smith
This page: Velvet blazer,
1,120, and trousers, 370,
both Alexander McQueen.
Cashmere sweater, 150,
Ralph Lauren at Harrods.
Linen shirt, 125,
Gieves & Hawkes
Grooming
Hina Dohi at Soho
Management using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldnger at Models 1,
Max Rogers at Storm,
Adam Holden at Select
Photographers assistant
Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling and
Madeleine OFlaherty
With thanks to Candy
at East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILS
ON PAGE 54
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split second
chronograph fetched the
highest price for any Rolex
wristwatch sold at auction,
while the Patek Philippe
chronograph achieved the
worlds highest auction
price for a Patek Philippe
simple chronograph
wristwatch. Overleaf: A
rare Patek Philippe watch
set the world record for an
auction price of this model
and one a staggering $3.6m. Such stellar prices
helped Christies to become the rst auction
house to smash the $100 million barrier for
watch sales in a single year with a total of
$116.3 million realised while its main rivals,
Sothebys, Antiquorum and Bonhams, grossed
$64.97m, $60.93m and $15m respectively.
The really big money, however, is reserved
for a single brand: Patek Philippe. Its vintage
watches from the Forties and Fifties are far
and away the most sought-after by truly
serious collectors, and a 1946 Patek World
Time which sold for CHF6.6 million a decade
ago remains the most expensive wristwatch
ever to cross the auction block.
Rolex comes next in the league table of
collectable names, although the record for the
make stands at a mere $1.1 million for a 1942
split-second chronograph (pictured, left) that
was sold by Christies last May. After this,
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well, watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector. But it pays to do your homework
Words Simon de Burton
Hammer time
youll nd committed vintage collectors
battling for watches by brands such as Cartier,
Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.
But the times, they are a-changing in the
world of watch auctions. Until recently, the
world centres were Geneva and New York
and, generally speaking, it was older watches
that reached the biggest prices. During the
past ve years, however, some of the new
Chinese money that manages to escape being
mopped up by the luxury goods giants is
nding its way to the Hong Kong watch sales
being organised by Antiquorum, Bonhams,
Christies and Sothebys as wealthy Asian
enthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burning
desire for timepieces.
The overall trend in Asia is to bid for
contemporary watches by cutting-edge brands
such as Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey and
Urwerk although some buyers are gaining
In recent years, retail sales of luxury watches
have proved to be deant in the face of
nancial crises, with all the major brands
posting dramatic increases across the board
the giant Swatch Group, for example, shifted
timepieces worth almost 5 billion last year, a
rise of more than 21 per cent.
One of the efects of such buoyancy can
be seen in the market for pre-owned watches,
notably those being sold at auction. The
average man in the street (especially here in
parsimonious Britain) still struggles to come
to terms with the idea that people spend tens
of thousands of pounds on a wristwatch, but
such gures pale into insignicance when
compared with the sums being splashed out at
auction on the rarest vintage pieces.
During 2011, Christies sold no fewer than
nine wristwatches for more than $1 million
apiece, two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS | BRUMMELL 51
sufcient condence in the timepiece market
to start paying large amounts of money for
blue-chip vintage pieces.
Regardless of where a pre-owned luxury
watch is bought or sold, however, the benets
of picking one up at auction remain the same:
in the case of most contemporary models, its
possible to acquire a virtually new watch in
excellent condition for a considerable saving
over retail; a typical watch auction will feature
200 to 400 lots, so there is a wide choice
instantly available. Provided you buy from
a reputable house, you can bid with
condence and, not least, if you dont get
carried away and bid over the odds, theres
a good chance youll be able to re-sell your
purchase later at little or no loss.
The biggest watch auctions in London are
staged by Bonhams and Sothebys. The
former holds sales at two levels: it ofers more
expensive ne watches in its New Bond
Street rooms and more afordable pieces at its
Knightsbridge location.
Activity in the London market has also
increased recently with the arrival of a new
specialist horological auctioneer, Watches of
Knightsbridge, while Birmingham-based
Fellows has established itself as the leading
regional house to specialise in watches at all
levels - it stages four sales per year of higher
quality pieces together with large, weekly
auctions of watches priced from as little as 50.
4
Attend the pre-sale view and look carefully at
any watches that interest you. Try them on,
ensure they are working correctly and, above
all, ask the auction house specialists as many
questions as possible. They are there to help
and will be very happy to explain the process of
buying in detail, as well as giving you all the
necessary information about individual lots.
5
Select the watch or watches that you are
interested in, mark them in the catalogue and
resolve not to bid on any that you havent
researched. If you are planning to bid for
a current model, check the retail price and bear
in mind that you might end up paying more for
a pre-owned example at auction than you would
for a brand new one. In any event, look up prices
achieved for similar watches in recent sales
in order to discover the market value.
Antiquorums online database is an excellent
way to do this.
6
Do not be tempted to buy a timepiece which
looks tatty or badly restored in the current
market, condition is everything, regardless
of make or model.
7
Look for watches that come supplied complete
with their original boxes and paperwork. Any
other documentary provenance relating to the
watch is also good to have.
8
If you are interested in a very specialised piece
perhaps a high complication, a military Rolex
or an exceptionally valuable blue-chip
collectors piece, for example seek the advice
of a respected expert in the eld. If you are
hoping to buy a watch that has been made in
several dierent variants, research the options
as thoroughly as possible to avoid paying too
much for a less desirable version.
9
If you dont want to attend the entire auction
but you do want to arrive in good time to bid
on your chosen lot, roughly calculate when it
will be oered on the basis that a moderately
fast auction moves at the rate of around 100
lots per hour.
10
When the time nally comes to bid on your ideal
watch, set a price limit and stick to it resolutely.
Unless its a real rarity, avoid paying over the
odds another example will probably appear
at auction in the near future.
No matter how inexpensive the object,
buying at auction can be a nerve-wracking
experience for the absolute beginner so
weve compiled a 10-point guide for novices.
Follow it closely and you should be able to
strap on your dream watch without feeling
youve been handcued.
1
Attend a sale, but go with no intention of
bidding. Ideally, go with someone who has
experience of auctions, so you can watch what
they do and ask questions.
2
Closely observe what goes on and get a
measure of how the auctioneer works the room,
how bidding increments change as prices rise
and how experienced buyers time their bids.
3
When you eventually feel ready to buy, get hold
of a catalogue for a forthcoming auction and
read it carefully. Check the terms and
conditions; be sure you understand about
buyers premium and any additional taxes that
will be added to the amount of a successful bid.
Around the
world in 20
watch auctions
Antiquorum
antiquorum.com
11 March, Geneva
4 April, New York
19 May, Geneva
2 June, Hong Kong
20 June, New York
11 August, Hong Kong
Bonhams
bonhams.com
23 May, Hong Kong
7 June, New York
13 June, London (New Bond Street)
Christies
christies.com
21 May, Geneva
30 May, Hong Kong
13 June, New York
Fellows
fellows.co.uk
Auctions held weekly
see website for details.
Sothebys
sothebys.com
6 April, Hong Kong
12 May, Geneva
14 June, New York
10 July, London
Watches of Knightsbridge
watchesofknightsbridge.com
10 March, London
12 May, London
14 July, London
22 September, London
BRUMMELL | WATCH AUCTIONS 52
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THE GEORGE DANI ELS HOROLOGI CAL COLLECTI ON
AUCTI ON I N LONDON 6 NOVEMBER 201 2 | ENQUI RI ES +44 (0) 20 7 293 5538 | SOTHEBYS . COM
BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE 54
One of Italian fashions
most amboyant gures,
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
Stockists
Alexander McQueen alexandermcqueen.com Blancpain blancpain.com
Breitling breitling.com Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303; burberry.com
Canali canali.it Cartier cartier.com Chanel chanel.com Chopard
chopard.com Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250; cutlerandgross.com
Gieves & Hawkes 020 7432 6403; gievesandhawkes.com Hackett
020 7939 6865; hackett.com Harrods 020 7730 1234; harrods.com
Omega omegawatches.com Panerai panerai.com Paul Smith 0800
023 4006; paulsmith.co.uk TAG Heuer tagheuer.com
A guy can see life in one way, and then see it in
another way, suggests Angelo Galasso. After
all, everyone likes to evolve. The amboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace, but he has had his
inuence on menswear: Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990, bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cu a section cut out of the cu
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
but a trend for towering collars, open necks
and loud prints. In short, he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity, creating a 100-
shop international business in the process.
Of his decision to sell up, Galasso says,
I like to work with passion and just didnt feel
it any more. Wed built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop oor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couture
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration,
but Galassos latest incarnation as the front
man of an eponymous brand, after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore, with
whom he in now in a protracted, stressful legal
battle comes close. It is not for the wallower:
lavish print and colour, crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear dicult to
ignore. Everything, from fat ties to pointy shoes,
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up.
Its about selling the right fashion for the
right customer, says Galasso. And there is
a customer who wants something bolder.
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety, Angelo Galassos style may prove a leap
too far. For others its a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air. Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk, for example)
and it is, Galasso argues, actually all rather
traditional: Savile Row on a psychedelic high.
Savile Row, says Galasso, because thats where
the most elegant men are. There, and in Naples.
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more build it and they will come than answering
a clear need. But he hopes to, as he puts it, catch
the right moment I think in the coming years
well start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively, a bit Euro, a little more ashily, and
theyll get compliments for that, he adds. You
cant overdo the ashiness, of course. You do it
with one piece, not head to toe. Some people
will still think its too much, and thats ne.
Fine perhaps because Galasso who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain has something of a
track record of going his own way and nding
enough men to follow him. It was while he was
working in nance and unable to nd clothes he
liked for himself that, despite a lack of training,
he started to make his own. Soon colleagues
were placing orders, enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work. Soon, the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z, Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too.
Now, he reckons, we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation. Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the dierence
between the quality of mens clothing a decade
ago and today. Ten years ago, the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard, even
dull. Today, the UK consumer can buy divine
burrata mozzarella which comes, coincidentally,
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born. Its in another class. Its the kind of
dierence men are seeing in their clothing
choices. Just dont drip olive oil on any of it.
angelogalasso.com
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO-RESPONDENTS
Having made his name as a
shirtmaker, Angelo Galasso has
taken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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