THE PENNSYLVANIA STATE UNIVERSITY JANE E.

COOPER CAMPUS HONORS PROGRAM

DIVISION OF BUSINESS & ECONOMICS

SHOP TIL YOU DROP? A STUDY OF CONSUMER EXPERIENCES AND FEELINGS ABOUT SHOPPING AND MAKING FASHION CHOICES DIANE PAOLO Spring 2010

A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for a baccalaureate degree in Business with honors in Business

Reviewed and approved* by the following: Julie Stanton Associate Professor of Business Thesis Supervisor

Susan M. Fredricks Associate Professor of Communication Arts and Sciences Thesis Reader

*Signatures are on file in the Jane E. Cooper Honors Program Office

ABSTRACT In general, consumers shopping for clothing, shoes and accessories are presented with information from multiple sources. Fashion magazines, newspapers, tabloids, mailers, catalogues, TV shows, movies, friends, family, the people on the street, department stores, malls, boutiques, designers, retailers, textiles manufacturers all play a role in what informs the consumer in making their purchases while shopping. Is this information overload? This thesis uses the results of four different focus groups to describe how consumers filter and queue the large amounts of information they receive from multiple sources in order to make their fashion and wardrobe purchases. This thesis also touches on the concept of fashion consulting to help shoppers that may be overwhelmed or frustrated.

Keywords: information overload, filtering, queuing, shopping, fashion,

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................ i LIST OF TABLES ....................................................................................................... iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................ iv Chapter 1 Introduction: Evolution of the fashion industry ........................................ 1 Chapter 2 Literature Review ...................................................................................... 9 The fashion market and the consumer ................................................................. 9 Decision-making influencs ............................................................................ 10 Shift in the fashion market ............................................................................ 11 Generational and family influences ............................................................... 12 Shopping environment................................................................................... 13 Information overload ........................................................................................... 15 Chapter 3 Methods: Focus Groups and Survey .......................................................... 19 Focus group characteristics and discussion questions .......................................... 19 Participant survey questions ................................................................................. 23 Limitations of methods ......................................................................................... 24 Chapter 4 Focus Groups Results ................................................................................. 26 Shopping routine ................................................................................................... 26 Fashion informing ................................................................................................. 30 Shopping experiences and feelings ....................................................................... 32 Fashion decisions: stores, brands, styles............................................................... 37 Fashion solution: fashion consulting store ........................................................... 40 Shopper traits ....................................................................................................... 44 Chapter 5 Survey Results ............................................................................................ 46 Chapter 6 Discussion and Conclusion ........................................................................ 49 Consumer behavior among the focus group participants ..................................... 49 Information overload among the focus group participants ................................... 51 Conclusion ............................................................................................................ 54 References .................................................................................................................... 55 ACADEMIC VITAE ................................................................................................... 59

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LIST OF TABLES Table 3-1. Focus Group Discussion Questions ............................................................ 21 Table 3-2. Spring 2010 Focus Group Participant Survey Form .................................. 24 Table 4-1. Under/Over Age 30: Womens Feelings about Clothes Shopping ............ 33 Table 5-1. Spring 2010 Focus Group Participant Survey Results .............................. 46 Table 5-2. Average Analysis Result of Selected Shopping Data ................................ 47

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thank you to Dr. Julie Stanton for her support, encouragement, and invaluable hands-on expertise in preparing and writing this thesis. Thank you to the participants of the focus groups and surveys whose spontaneous discussions made this study real. And, thank you to my family.

Chapter 1 Introduction Consumers today are faced with almost unlimited choices when it comes to their shopping needs. One area of shopping expenditures is physically visible on the consumer everyday: shoes, clothing and accessories. These purchases are readily apparent on each and every one of us. The question is, how do consumers make these all-important choices, which are an outward expression of their personality, taste and style? For this research, focus groups were set up to explore consumer shopping experiences, such as their shopping likes and dislikes, and their frustrations and joys in the shopping arena for clothing, shoes and accessories. The groups were also presented with a unique fashion consulting concept and expressed their views on the likelihood of whether a mall-based fashion-consulting store would ease their shopping frustrations and improve their shopping experiences. This introduction offers a look into the history of the fashion industryand the market that developed along with itfrom its simple beginnings to its current reign as an industry giant in its own right. Evolution of the Fashion Industry Throughout most of history, fashion was an aspect of life that was enjoyed by the privileged few. In ancient times, the ruling class indulged in the finer aspects of life such as wearing fine fabrics woven with strands of gold or jeweled headpieces. The poor, who struggled each day to raise crops and tend animals in the pasture, clothed themselves in the wool from their sheep and

goat herds and dressed in what was functional for working and living their lives. Fashion and personal style were not considerations of the day (Craik, 2009). This separation between the lavishness of the ruling class and the functional basics of the working class defined fashion and dress for most of human history. A change began to occur for women in the late 1800s with the advent of the womens journal publishing era. Womens magazines were very popular. The common American woman could read about the fashions coming out of Paris, London, and New York. The magazines taught the common woman how to modify her clothes to more closely resemble the latest fashions. Instructions on adding lace, buttons, or trims, modifying hemlines and the like were regular fare in the womens magazines. This era began a filtering of fashion and style throughout all groups and classes of women (Scranton, 2001). At this time, women-owned shops and boutiques began opening in the towns and cities in the U.S. providing more fashionable clothing choices for the everyday woman. These women proprietors were usually skilled seamstresses, dressmakers and milliners who sold fabrics, patterns, trims and notions along with fashioning finished garments for ordinary women (Scranton, 2001, p 12). In those early days, selling fashion involved a long-term relationship between the buyer and seller. As the 1920s approached, selling fashion became much more widespread and systematic. Fashion became integrated into movies, advertising campaigns and retailing. Retailers and entrepreneurs noted the mass market appeal of fashion, and an industry that was once dominated by women designers and shop owners, gradually came to be dominated by businessmen and male designers on a large scale (Blaszczyk, 2008).

Shopping also began to emerge as an entertainment experience and visual delight as the early 20th century U.S. retailers, such as Macys, Gimbels, and John Wanamakers, opened impressive department stores with beauty and scale comparable to a cathedral. The shopping public was captivated by the attractive displays, architectural elements, and pleasurable environment of the stores (Moss, 2007). The latest fashions for sale in the department stores of the 1930s and 1940s could be narrowed to a particular seasonal look brought to the masses by the designers of the day. Fashion was also designed with the more adult woman in mind, while fashions for teens and children were derived from the designs for adults. The 1950s brought additional changes to the fashion scene. For the first time, Italian designers began to gain footing in the international market. Italy had been known for its fine fabrics, but not as a design center. In the 1950s, Italian designers began to introduce a more simplified way of dressing women with lighter fabrics, capri pants, and undergarments that were unrestrictive (Walkowiak, 2005). The 1960s also saw a new trend in fashion; style choices were being dictated from the youth back up to the adults, a reverse of how things were done in the past (Steele, 2001). Designers began designing with teens in mind, especially styles that epitomized the current pop and rock music scene that was exploding at the time. Jeans, bell bottoms, collarless jackets, short skirts, go-go boots and the like became commonplace (Godbold, 2001). The late 20th century also saw an emergence of name brand designers, such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, or Gloria Vanderbilt, who created a particular style and developed a mass market that was label conscious, and built brand loyalty. This era also saw fashion designed around other societal trends, such as the fitness craze, which brought designer sneakers and workout clothes into everyday casual dress wear (Scranton, 2001; Steele, 2001).

As we approach the close of the first decade of the 20th century, another trend has developed with the emergence of specialty shops that cater to a particular niche market (Bolino, 2003). These designers are not looking for mass appeal, but focus their product on a highly targeted niche. Shoe designer Jimmy Choo is an example of one of these 20th century designers that has built a strong market niche for his high-end, sometimes be-jeweled, stiletto shoes and sandals (Crowe, 2009). Although niche marketers may be unknown outside their target market, their customers are usually very brand loyal. For a fashion designer to emerge as a notable entity in the fashion world requires innovation, business acumen and strong survival strategies (Malem, 2008). The fashion industry has evolved dramatically over the past 100 years from local shops owned by seamstresses, to mammoth clothing designers and manufacturers such as the $3 billion Calvin Klein empire (Marsh, 2003), to niche marketers such as Jimmy Choo. Throughout those years, notable companies have experienced times of both phenomenal growth and crushing losses. The Paul Harris chain of womens clothing stores grew from one store in a strip mall in 1954 to over 300 stores at its peak to bankruptcy and final closing of its doors in 2001 (Paul, 2007). L.L. Bean from its early beginnings in 1912 with one boot design by its founder has also experienced periods of growth and regression through changing markets, yet has managed to remain a viable company for nearly 100 years (Gorman, 2006). Fashion history suggests that it is a dynamic and fluid industry that evolves with the times and responds to societys needs with anywhere from practical updates for working environments to revolutionary style changes promoting self-expression. Yet somewhere within the broad spectrum between the fashion extremes lives the everyday person merely seeking to dress at their personal best without becoming a fashion victim. The challenge is to do this within

the ever-changing climates of fashion and society, which relates back to the need for personal fashion guidance. The fashion industry today is comprised of many businesses and services that collectively define the industry. These various businesses are intertwined, with each relying on the other for success. The businesses comprising the fashion industry include textile mills, fashion designers, clothing manufacturers, retailers including Internet stores, buyers, merchandisers, and fashion stylists (Institute for Career Research, 2005). Additionally, modeling, advertising, publishing (fashion magazines and journals), and entertainment are intertwined with fashion (Scranton, 2001, p 13). The textile industry works closely with experts in fashion, color, and materials, manufacturing fabrics with longer trends in mind rather than fads. Textile mills plan fabric production two-years prior to a fashion season and therefore must be attuned to long term trends. Fashion designers also heavily influence the textile industry as they search for fabrics that are the right color, weight, texture and handle for their designs (Gale, 2004, p 3-4). Fabrics have served as an inspiration and obsession for many designers as they travel the world attending fabric fairs to find the ideal fabrics for their designs (p 8). Fashion designers are the conduit between the textile mills, the clothing manufacturers, the retailers and the buying public. Designers must be sensitive to the needs of the consumer, the abilities of the manufacturers, the raw materials that are available (fabrics), and their own creativity when designing fashions for the season. Designers today tend to be more targeted in their markets designing with a more specific consumer in mind. This has created room for new designers to step in to fill market niches to accommodate this new sense of individualism and sophistication that is exhibited by todays consumers (Penn, 2007, p 15).

Over the years, the retail industry has worked to make shopping an entertaining adventure from lavish department stores, to fabulous malls, to trendy boutique shopsdrawing the consumer into a feel good experience that has become one of Americas favorite leisure activities (Moss, 2007, p xi). The retail fashion industry is also made up of numerous players including buyers, merchandisers, fashion directors and coordinators, and sales associates that work to create the fashion experience that the market expects (Institute for Career Research, 2005). The industry is also comprised of visual, emotional and trend-setting influences such as fashion magazines (Vogue, Elle), supermodels (Heidi Klum, Cindy Crawford), TV shows (Project Runway), and advertising. The movie and music industries also feed into the fashion industry with famous movie stars and musicians setting trends and influencing style. Movies such as Confessions of a Shopoholic and The Devil Wears Prada revolve around fashion, one from the vantage point of the consumer, and the other from the powerful position of an industry leader. The TV show Sex and the City, with its closetful of fashion statements, was so popular that it inspired a full-length movie for theaters. The fashion messages are about self-confidence, status and even empowerment. Fashion consultants, personal stylists, wardrobe consultants, image consultants, and personal shoppers are the fashion industry experts in dressing the individual in the styles, fabrics, colors that best suit the individuals body type and life style. Susan Dresner, New York wardrobe consultant and owner of Ways & Means, described as New Yorks premier wardrobe consulting service, puts it this way: [We work] with real individuals. Busy people, who must look smart from early [morning] until late into the evening, do not have time [to go] around scouting for clothes nor unlimited budgets to blow. We streamline dressing for the

professional: image updates to catch up with changes in career and personal style, closet make-overs, best NY shopping, customized trunk shows. As well, Ways & Means consults to Fortune 500 companies. (Dresner, 2007)

As noted by Ways & Means, appropriate dress in the work place is a topic of concern for many career and professional women. The clothing apparel company, Lands End, took note in a book written exclusively addressing these concerns (Lyon, 2004). The pages provide step-bystep instructions and numerous photographs detailing styles for a variety of business environments, from casual to formal. It attempts to guide the reader in purchasing the right style, color and fit for the workplace. Aside from New York wardrobe consultants and fashion advice books, style and image consultants can be found by searching online or going to select department stores, such as Macys and Nordstrom, that provide wardrobe assistance as an in-store service to customers. The in-store service is provided at no additional cost to the shopper. The fashion industry works to translate the creativity flowing from the imaginations of designers into a real product meeting the needs of the market and consumers. This has led to the development of a dynamic industry of designers, manufacturers, distributors, and retailers. The industry has presented the consumer with nearly limitless fashion choices. Yet, linking the right fashion product to the right customer is still a hit or miss proposition. Consumers adding to their wardrobes can read the fashion magazines for ideas, look to the fashion leaders on the street, in entertainment, or in the business world, or hope for assistance at the store when shopping. The lucky ones can hire a fashion consultant, personal stylist, wardrobe consultant, image specialist, or personal shopper to make sure that they always look their personal best, thus making that important link of the right product to the right customer.

Consumers spend a significant proportion of their income on retail purchases, a large part of which is clothing, shoes and related accessories. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the Industry Statistics Sampler (ISS) for the Retail Trade, total retail receipts amounted to $3,134.3 billion in 2002. Within these figures, the clothing and clothing accessories stores receipts amounted to $172.6 billion in 2002, which includes $4.7 billion from non-employee retailers, such as small sole-proprietorships, comprising 96,297 establishments; and $167.9 billion from employer retailers, such as department stores and brand stores, comprising 149,810 establishments with 1,426,573 employees. The ISS report for Other Design Services, which includes clothing design, reported 2002 annual receipts of $684 million from 1,675 establishments (US Census Bureau, 2009). After taking a look at how the fashion industry emerged and the various aspects that comprise the industry as a whole, such as design, textiles, merchandising and fashion consulting, the next area to examine is the impact of the industry on the market and the consumers reaction to fashion. The following chapter examines how consumers view fashion and clothing, and the possiblity of information overload from the explosion of fashion choices over the years.

Chapter 2 Literature Review The emergence and vitality of the fashion industry is not by accident. The market, which is everyone who purchases clothing, helped to bring about the industry in the quest by the individual to express themselves as unique, yet as also part of a desired group (e.g. family, work, school) (Shapiro, 2001). This desire for self-expression is visibly displayed by the clothes we wear. Yet in our desire for individuality, we have helped to create an industry that brings nearly limitless choices in creating our personal style. The Fashion Market and the Consumer From these observations, there appear to be several forces driving consumers in their clothing purchases; clothing as necessity, clothing as self-expression, and clothing as membership in a group. Clothing as a basic need serves as protection from the elements, whether it is the burning hot desert sun or the freezing sleet of a winter noreaster. The summer climates call for lightweight fabrics, sandals, and protective hats and sunglasses. Winter weather requires boots, heavy weather-resistant coats, sweaters and warm hats. The seasons may dictate the type of clothing appropriate for the weather, yet other factors influence how we express ourselves fashionably during those seasons. As we choose clothing that represents our personality, the purchases also tend to be appropriate to the context they will be worn in. Friends ask one another, What are you wearing to the party? We look for that acceptance and appropriateness to the group while expressing our individuality (Shapiro, 2001).

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This self-expression takes place under many different circumstances. There are environments that require a particular type of dress, such as work, with a certain level of formality or informality within that environment. There are events in a persons life that require yet another type of dress; weddings, funerals, graduations. And there are activities that require yet another; entertainment, sporting events, vacations. Understanding consumer behavior is an ongoing discipline and curiosity. Consumer attitudes towards clothing and fashion, buying habits and fashion marketing have been studied in order to better understand the market. Decision-making influences There are numerous factors that influence a womans fashion decisions. A study by Goldsmith and Clark (2008) analyzed the roles of fashion opinion leaders and fashion opinion seekers and their clothing choices. Fashion opinion leaders help to generate the buzz about fashion as opinion seekers look to them as a source of information on what to buy to be fashionable. Opinion leaders tend to be more individualistic in their style having a need to be unique and stand out from others. They will adopt new styles in the early stages of their introduction since opinion leaders stay well-informed of what is happening in the fashion industry. They are knowledgeable about fashion, design, and who the other fashion leaders are. They understand, and are very aware of, the signals given by a persons appearance, particularly their fashion presence. Opinion seekers lag behind leaders in adopting the latest styles. Even though they look to the leaders for fashion direction, they will tend to make choices that blend in more with other fashion seekers, not requiring uniqueness as the leaders do. Seekers are more content to wear

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fashions that are consistent with the norm. Seekers also do not have the same level of interest in being knowledgeable about fashion as opinion leaders do (Goldsmith & Clark, 2008). Shopping can also be used as a means to restore a persons confidence and self-view according to a study by Gao, et al. (2008). When confidence was artificially shaken through writing about an experience that instilled doubt, the authors found that choosing products that are of a competent nature such as a PDA, as opposed to an exciting or frivolous nature such as a skydiving tour, would restore the purchasers self-confidence. Although they found that a persons self-confidence can be easily shaken, they also found that it can be just as readily restored through confidence-bolstering purchases (p 37). Shift in the fashion market In a study about fashion purchases in Britain from 1961-2001, Majima (2008) noted the increased expenditures by women on fashion during the fashion boom years. The author also contends that due to extensive fashion choices, greater disposable income, and a desire to stay current, women are experiencing a new anxiety to keep up with the trends. The 1960s was the first decade in which the teen generation, todays baby boomers, spent more on clothing purchases than adults did. Fashion was geared toward youth, and this generation spent freely to dress in the current styles. This generation also changed the categorization of clothing as a durable good to one that is considered a consumable. Clothing was quickly replaced from one season to the next with the latest styles (p 502). Each decade brought something new to the fashion industry as the consumer demographics changed. More women were working than previous generations with a need to dress appropriately for the work environment.

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Because women were working, they tended to have more disposable income to spend on fashionable clothing. Growing affluence led to the rise of fast fashion which is the frequent updating and changes to fashion that have occurred over the years (p 507). Women would benefit from a service that easily helps them to meet their fashion, style and wardrobe needs, thereby relieving some of that fashion anxiety that Majima referred to in his research. Career women also find it necessary to project a professional image through their clothing and appearance according to a study by Piamphongsant and Mandhachitara (2008). In order to avoid anxiety and embarrassment about their appearance, working women will tend to conform to the expected fashion norms. Professional women may also choose to enhance their status among their co-workers through their clothing choices by purchasing fashionable namebrands that serve the appropriate function for the office (p 444). Generational and family influences There are also studies on generational differences and family influences on shopping preferences. Moore and Carpenter (2008) studied generational demographics to determine spending habits and shopping experiences for each group. They found that the silent generationthose born between 1925-1942enjoyed shopping, were very particular about quality and country of origin, and less price sensitive yet fiscally conservative, i.e., they would purchase an expensive quality product, but they did not frivolously spend money on impulse or unnecessary purchases. Boomers enjoyed shopping the least, looked for quality but were price sensitive, and were more concerned about location, service and prices. The millennials enjoyed shopping the most, were the least concerned about quality, but the most with the prestige associated with their purchases.

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Family communication patterns and lifestyles also influence the purchasing habits of young adults as found by Hsu and Chang (2008). Young adults in families that are considered high concept-oriented, which encourage discussion and evaluating alternatives, tended to be more fashion-cognizant. As a result, they shopped more frequently and made more shoes and clothing purchases than young adults from pragmatic, socio-oriented families that emphasized harmony and pleasant family relationships. The young adults from high concept-oriented families also tended to be fashion opinion leaders and found fashion trends and brands to be relatively important. Shopping environment Another factor affecting spending habits is the environment in which the consumer shops. In a study by Michon et al. (2008) regarding shopping behavior in the mall environment, a favorable impression of the mall atmosphere positively influences the shoppers perceptions of the quality of the merchandise offered and enhances their shopping experience. For the middle market group of shoppers, this was especially true as they were highly influenced by mall atmosphere and spent more money and made more purchases accordingly. On the other hand, mall atmospherics had little or no effect on low- or high-fashion oriented shoppers. Women, fashion and shopping often experience a love-hate relationship with many falling victim to fashion fads and dressing inappropriately for their age and body type (Lee, 2003). As the author states, Fashion is built on contradictions. Its fun, but frustrating. Its creative, but commercial. The consumer can also experience love-hate with their purchases once they get them home. They love the outfit, but cringe at the credit card bill. They have a closet full of clothes, yet nothing to wear. They love the new shoes, but hate the blisters.

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According to the author, the average American in 2003 went shopping four times per month and spent $1,729 annually on clothing (p xiv). The fashion market is just as dynamic as the industry that serves it. There are opinion leaders who are the fashionista that enjoy exploiting the latest trends. There are the opinion seekers that look to the leaders for guidance, yet tone down their style expression to more easily fit into the group. There are the young teens that need to copy their friends, and the older teens that have more confidence in expressing individuality in their clothing choices. There are the career women needing to dress appropriately for the work environment while appearing up-todate and fresh. There are the boomers who have gone through 40 years of major fashion trends and fast fashion and are looking for a way to keep up with it all. There are also many factors that influence each of these market divisions. Family influences, self-image, shopping environment, and advertising all play a part in the consumers shopping experiences, spending habits and clothing choices. Information Overload With all the fashion choices and sources of information, are consumers feeling information overload? Information overload is defined as a subjective experience of the insufficiency of time needed to make effective use of information resources available in specific situations. Thus, the encounter with information overload seems to be characterized by the experience of being overwhelmed (Savolainen, 2007, p. 612). Savolainen also refers to a study (Miller, 1962) that shows the limitations of ones short-term memory. Apparently, individuals are limited to seven items plus or minus two that they can process in their short-term

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memory at any one time. Other information is dealt with by queuing it for later accessing, or by filtering it out completely. There are a number of strategies for dealing with information overload. In the pull approach, the information that is specifically needed is searched for, with other information being filtered out, in other words, not even considered. For example, if a consumer wishes to purchase a pair of Calvin Klein jeans, they search for the ads, stores, and sales that apply to Calvin Klein, and filter out other brands and stores. In the push approach, information is automatically delivered to the consumer based on prior preferences. So this may include store and brand flyers that come in the mail or by email that target the consumer based on prior information. In situations where the person is not specifically seeking information, he or she may just ignore the information supply completely. (p. 613) In the study just mentioned, the author found two main methods that the respondents used to handle information overload. They either employed a filtering strategy or a withdrawal strategy. They defined filtering as a systematic attempt to weed out useless information and withdrawal as an attempt to keep information feeds to a minimum. In the first scenario, the information is still coming at you, but you filter out what you do not need or want. In the second scenario, you restrict the information from getting to you (avoid watching TV, reading the newspaper, going online). (p. 617) Information overload has been linked to the broader research topic of consumer choice. In their research, Fasolo, et.al. (2007) described choice as a double-edged sword. They found that consumers are attracted to lots of choices and variety within their options, such as flavors of jam. Yet, an overly large set of varieties can make it difficult for consumers to decide which one, and they may end up not making a choice, and thus not making a purchase. (p. 13-14)

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The problem of choice can be found in both the number of options available, such as brands of jeans, and in the number of attributes within the option, such as color, styling, pockets and more. This abundance of attributes has also been found to be a source of information overload and a cause for consumer confusion. According to the study consumers reported having too much information when the number of attributes was increased but not when the number of options was increased. (p. 14) The authors also cited a study that found that making a choice based on partial information may be just as accurate as making a decision based on all the information. They thought that the fast and frugal heuristics worked since respondents were probably making their decisions based on the most important cues, and that all available information may add noise to the decision-making process rather than clarifying it. (p. 15) The authors point out that there is a trade-off between accuracy of choice and effort spent. (p. 16) Along these lines, Nordgren & Dijksterhuis (2008) found that deliberating too much on particular features of a product can cause dissatisfaction with the purchase. When participants chose an item based on their first overall impression, and without thinking about individual features, they were much more satisfied at a later date than participants who consciously thought about and deliberated over product features before purchasing. The researchers found that introspection can cause disproportionate weighting of a products attributes. (p. 45) Another study by Braun-LaTour, et. al. (2007) looked into information overload and touched on consumer confusion that resulted from marketers efforts to grab the consumers attention. If the advertising strategy employs cues that do not fit with the product, even though the advertisement may grab the consumers attention, it may also cause them confusion in trying to reconcile the advertisement message with the product function. This incongruence may lead

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the consumer to reject the information rather than to spend the time, effort, and mental activity necessary to interpret it. (p. 1109-10) The same study also looked at the effect a consumers mood had on how they process incongruent information when they are in an information overload situation. The researchers found that those who are in a positive frame of mind are better able to expend the additional effort needed to interpret incongruent information. Those who were in a negative state of mind were less able to process the information, especially in an overload situation. (p. 1113-4) Consumer confusion can be another result of information overload as found in a study by Mitchell and Papavassiliou (1999). The proliferation of look-alike products made by own-label manufacturers is one source of consumer confusion identified in this study. This similarity of products and lack of differentiation and can make it more difficult for consumers to determine which one would be better to choose. Another source of confusion comes from over choice of products, brands and storesa scenario similar to the options and varieties problem mentioned previously. (p 320) Confusion can also result from the consumers own mishandling or misuse of the product, leading to dissatisfaction and reduced customer loyalty. On the other hand, consumers may be misinformed by ambiguous, misleading or inadequate information conveyed through marketing communications. Consumers turn to strategies to reduce the confusion. The authors suggested six approaches that consumers use to reduce confusion: (1) do nothing; (2) postpone/abandon the purchase; (3) clarify the buying goals; (4) seek additional information; (5) narrow down the set of alternatives; (6) share/delegate the purchase.

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The researchers also found that experienced consumers were less likely to experience consumer confusion and information overload. They determined that those who regularly inform themselves and shop frequently are better able to process information. Their experience facilitates information processing and they are more relaxed, satisfied shoppers. The area of fashion seems to be a perfect example of information overload to consumers. There are many designers, brands, stores, shopping centers, malls, and outlets to choose from. Within each of those choices, additional choices must be made as to what style, fit, attributes, color, fabric, quality, season, occasion and more. To study the effects of all this information on the consumer who shops for clothes, shoes and accessories, focus groups and a survey were conducted as described in the following chapters.

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Chapter 3 Methods: Focus Groups and Surveys Focus groups were set up as a research method in order to better understand what consumers are experiencing on a personal level when they shop for clothing and make fashion choices. Additional information was gathered through a short survey of the focus group participants. The purpose of gathering the information was to determine how consumers relate to their choices of fashion items and whether they would benefit from a mall-based fashion consulting store as a means to filter fashion information and provide the consumer with clear-cut fashion choices. Four separate focus groups were conducted to explore their shopping experiences: two at the Penn State Brandywine Campus, and two at off-campus locations. The students were invited by email. Eight women students responded to form the first group. A second group consisted of nine male students . The third and fourth groups, each consisting of seven participants, were formed by calling the participants to ask if they would like to participate. The third group comprised a mixed-age group of family and neighborhood friends, and the fourth was an overage-30 group of female friends and relatives. Focus Group Characteristics and Discussion Questions The two student groups were facilitated in a classroom at the Penn State Brandywine campus. To encourage the students to participate, the focus groups were promised a hot lunch of pizza and refreshments. The students from the business classes of the thesis supervisor were encouraged to participate with the offer of extra credit points towards their grades.

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The female student participants, called the Female College Students group, consisted of two communications students, and five business students, and ranged in age from 19 to 26, except for one honors adult student over the age of 40. All nine of the male participants, called the Male College Students group, were business students in their low to mid-twenties. Some of the students had part-time jobs. One of the male students was a real estate agent. The other two groups took place off campus. The third group, called the mixed Age Group, consisted of six female and one male participant. The group included one 17-year-old high school student who works part-time, two college graduates in their mid-twenties that work full-time, one full-time graduate student in her mid-twenties, two full-time moms over 40-yearsold, and one male business owner in his early 50s. This group took place one evening at the authors house which is located a few miles from the Brandywine campus. The participants were served appetizers and refreshments. The fourth group, called the mature Women Group, consisted of family and friends of the thesis supervisor and took place at her home in a rural area in southern New Jersey where they were also served refreshments. The seven participants, all female, consisted of five women in their 40s, one in her 30s and one in her 50s. Both the woman in her 30s and the woman in her 50s have graduate degrees and work full-time. Three of the women in their 40s had some college and two have undergraduate degrees, and all work full-time or part-time. Participants were asked to discuss freely the feelings and experiences regarding shopping for clothes and accessories. To get the conversation started each group was asked how often they go shopping for clothing and accessories. This was generally followed by discussions of what they like and what they dislike about shopping. Although each group discussed similar questions, each group took turns into an individualized (as a group) direction.

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Although a guideline was followed in facilitating each group, the actual flow varied slightly for each group. Table 3-1 below shows the guideline discussion questions that were used with each group. The discussions varied among the groups as one group may have discussed aspects of shopping that another group did not touch on as part of the natural conversation flow. Table 3-1. Focus Group Discussion Questions Focus Group was approved by Penn States Office of Research Protections.

Focus Group Guideline Questions How often do you go shopping for clothing and accessories? What do you like about shopping? What do you dislike about shopping? How much do you plan your shopping? What kind of information do you use to guide your shopping? How do you feel about the variety of information sources about fashion? What is it about clothing/fashion options that presents a challenge? Explained the fashion consulting store concept for discussion.

Participant survey questions The participants of the focus groups were asked to complete a survey in order to provide some demographic information such as sex, age, educational level, and relationship status. The demographic data would help to categorize their shopping experiences and feelings by these characteristics. Does age or gender influence shopping habits and feelings about the experiences? Are these relevant for marketing purposes? The participants were also asked a few questions about their shopping experiences, such as how many days per month they go shopping for clothes, how many stores they go to per trip, and how many pairs of shoes they own. They were also asked about people that may play a role in their shopping experiences and whether or not they shop online. These topics were also

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discussed in the focus groups, and the survey allowed for the quantitative data of the survey to be compared against the qualitative results of the focus groups. Table 3-2 shows a sample of the survey distributed to the focus group participants. The participants completed the survey at the focus group session prior to starting the focus group discussion. The surveys for groups three and four were slightly modified to include more age groupings and a work status choice. The results of the survey are provided in Chapter 5. Table 3-2. Spring 2010 Focus Group Participant Survey Form Survey was approved by Penn States Office of Research Protections. Please complete this form to give us some basic descriptive information that will help with our analysis. Your responses will remain confidential. Basic Information Participant Initials ____ Gender: __ Female __ Male Age range: ___ 18-20 ___ 21-23 ___ 24-26 ___ 27-29 ___ 30+

Year in school: ___ Freshman ___ Sophomore Relationship status: ___ Single/Dating

___ Junior ___ Senior ___ Married/Relationship

Number of siblings you have (not counting you): ____ Clothes Shopping Experiences Number of days per month (on average) that you go shopping for clothes: _____ Check here if less than once a month:____ Number of different clothing stores (on average) you will shop at on a single shopping day: ____ Number of pairs of shoes in your closet (roughly): ____ pairs

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Do you shop more often (pick one) ___ alone? ___ with a friend? ___ with a family member? ___with boyfirend/girlfriend/spouse? Do you prefer to shop for clothes online rather than in a store? ___ yes Does someone else select your clothes for you while shopping with you? ___ yes Does someone else typically buy clothes for you without you being there? ___ yes ___ no ___ no ___ no

Limitations of Focus Group Method The use of focus groups is an exploratory research method. The method is designed to gain insight into a particular research problem through open discussion among a limited number of people. The discussion is mainly unstructured and spontaneous with the moderator providing guidance throughout the process. The responses and interactions of the participants can point to basic consumer needs and attitudes in reference to the research problem under exploration (Burns & Bush, 2008, p. 107). Although there are certain advantages to using focus groups, such as a venue to generate fresh ideas or to observe and understand consumer reactions to new products and services, there ae also disadvantages to their use. As outlined by Burns & Bush (p. 110), there are three major disadvantages to using focus groups as a research method: 1) focus groups do not constitute representative samples; therefore, caution must be exercised in generalizing findings from them; 2) it is sometimes difficult to interpret results of focus groups; the moderators report of the results is based on subjective evaluation of what was said during the focus group; and 3) the cost per participant is high though the total spent on focus-group research is generally a fraction of what may be spent on quantitative research.

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Additionally, focus group research cannot be used to predict outcomes, and therefore it would not be wise for corporations to make major financial decisions based on the information gathered from focus groups. The consensus of six out of ten people in a focus group cannot be extended to mean that 60% of the population at large would respond in the same way. To make those predictions, quantitative research that is representative of the population being targeted and that can be analyzed with some known margin of error would be better suited. (p. 111) The following chapter provides the qualitative results of the focus groups conducted.

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Chapter 4 Results: Focus Groups While reviewing and analyzing the data from the discussions of the four focus groups, patterns and categories began to emerge from the responses. The participants had shopping habits and routines that they followed, even if they were not aware of them as such. Particularly the men had developed a simple shopping method. The discussions also included exploring how the participants informed themselves about fashion, discussing their experiences while shopping and the aftermath of their outings, plus delving into their fashion decisions, such as stores, brands, dollars and sense. Finally, the shopping solution of a mall-based fashion consulting store was discussed by the various groups. Shopping routine The opening discussion for each group began with how often they go shopping. As participants spoke of their shopping frequency or infrequency, other factors came into play as to when they shop. Two of the female participants, who are college graduates in their mid-20s working fulltime, go shopping frequently, at least once a week. The shopping may or may not include a purchase. As one of the frequent shoppers, who is a school teacher, said: I love shopping even though I dont have money for it. I probably shop twice a week. It depends on work. But theres not always money in the wallet. Its like browsing, window shopping.

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At the other extreme, a participant who is a female sophomore college student, shops only twice a year to buy her wardrobe for the season. As she puts it, I buy in bulk. I go twice a year and get everything I need at once. Some of the shoppers look forward to spring and summer, and shop more frequently then. Another prefers shopping more often in winter since it is indoors and there is nothing else to do. Five of the female participants mentioned that they enjoy window shopping. If they see something they like, they may keep it in mind and return when it is on sale. Or they may be constrained by lack of funds, and they window shop knowing that they really will not be able to buy. One of the female participants who is the mother of five, shops frequently, and is always fashionably-dressed put it this way: I can window shop and be happy. I can think, Oh my God, look at that shirt! Its so pretty! And that makes me happy Ill keep it in the back of my mind and if it goes on sale, Ill get. Several of the participants from one of the groups stated that they did not go shopping as often as they would like since it was not convenient in their mostly rural location. The male college students were fairly consistent in their shopping frequency of once or twice a month, and often less than that. The male participants employed a simple shopping method as exemplified by these four male participants: When I go shopping I dont really shop. I know what I want to get and I go right to the store, go right to where I want... Jeans or khakis, I know where to go and I pick them up. Same thing. When I go to the mall or go shopping I know where I want to go... I do something similar to these guys, if I know what I want. But Ill browse online first. Ill go to the stores web site and pick out something online then go in and try it on

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The men also relied on gifts from moms, aunts, grandmothers, and girlfriends to fill out their wardrobe. This helped to relieve them of many shopping trips. Participants did not necessarily plan their shopping trips, but several factors influenced when they went shopping. Christmas shopping on Black Friday was one day that two of the female college participants said they planned shopping based on the sales that were running, and also as a day to go shopping with friends. Along this line of thought, store flyers and circulars that arrived in the mail announcing special sales and discounts, along with coupons, played a role in when some of the participants shopped. In particular, the older female participants would only shop based on the bargains that were currently available. Discounts, outlets, bargains, coupons, reward points, and even yard sales, all heavily influenced when the more mature female participants shopped. When participants were asked if they had something in mind when they went clothes shopping, the men replied that they did have specific items in mind when they shop, as exemplified by their responses quoted above. The women varied in their responses which included looking for quality construction, good fabrics, colors they liked, clothes for work, something for a special occasion, an entire outfit, or shoes and accessories. The places they shopped at included malls, shopping centers, outlets, big box stores, department stores, and discount stores. A couple of older female participants shopped at yard sales looking for deals. When they shopped at the malls or suburban shopping centers, they went to the brand stores that they liked. None of the participants acknowledged shopping in the city (Philadelphia) or at boutiques.

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The more confident, frequent shoppers preferred shopping alone, although at times they liked to bring along mom or a friend. The men often went shopping with their girlfriends accompanying them on their shopping trips and sometimes buying something for themselves. The amount of money spent on clothes and accessories varied widely. The yard sale shoppers may spend a few dollars, one mentioning spending 50 cents on a pair of linen pants, while one frequent shopper, a college student in her early 20s, spent between $400 to $500 per month on clothes, shoes and accessories, paid for by her mother. Several of the men stated that their nicer clothing items were given to them as gifts, such as one students North Face jacket, and they would not spend that much on themselves. They like to keep their expenses down on clothes preferring to spend their money going out and doing things as one participant stated. Only one male participant admitted to getting a Macys credit card a year or two ago, and spending much more and buying more expensive items since he got the card. its so easy to swipe a card. I have a running credit at Macys for the past two years. Since Ive gotten that card I have been buying higher end stuff. Its not real money. Other participants expressed budget or time constraints which prevented them from shopping at different stores or more frequently. If money were no object I would have different preferences. I shop at Marshalls because its cheap. Its not that I dont like it [shopping]. I used to go shopping all the time, but now Im just too busy, and its not fun. Although several participants, primarily the men, used the Internet to browse prior to shopping, most did not make clothing purchases online. The women in particular cited the fact that they could not try the item on, and were concerned about fit. They did not want to be hassled

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with returning items. A few have been successful ordering from Victorias Secret catalogue, and found their sizing chart very accurate. Fashion informing The focus groups discussions also included conversations on how the shoppers informed themselves about fashion and what to buy. Magazines, TV shows, movies, observing other people, and window shopping all interacted to inform the participants. Several of the female participants scanned magazines such as Cosmo, Lucky or People to pick up fashion tips. The magazines helped to inform them of the trends. They looked for knockoffs of expensive designer items or trendy items that are reasonably priced. Three of the younger female shoppers described it this way: Sometimes the magazines will show an outfit on a celebrity, and then a knock off that is less than half the price to copy it. Thats what I do with Cosmo. I always go through the fashion stuff in there. Thats where I get fashion ideasfrom magazines. I get Lucky magazine. It identifies trends. Its high end. I like how they have the shoe guide for the fall. They have $500 shoes or the $15 shoes at Old Navy. One of the guys gets Maxim magazine, and although he does not say Wow, I want that. he does get ideas from the magazine. As an observation, the people that talked about picking up ideas from the magazines were also frequent shoppers that tended to be well-dressed. Two of the mature women participants had negative views of fashion magazines and runway looks. One described the looks in fashion magazines as ridiculous, and the other thought runway fashions were crazy. Other participants looked through the flyers that came in the mail for the stores they frequent, not only to take advantage of sales, coupons and discounts, but also for fashion ideas.

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One 50-year-old participant, who works full-time, takes the circular as a guide to the store and buys the exact outfit that the model is wearing in the advertisement. I have gone into the store with ad in hand. I went to Macys for a suit I saw in an ad. I cut out the ad and brought it with me. I needed a suit for an interview. I found the suit from the ad at the store, tried it on and bought it. Ive done the same thing with Boscovs ads. While another participant said that she noticed the styles that other people were wearing and not necessarily what she sees in a magazine. I feel like I always look at other people. Then I get ideas from what theyre wearing, and their style. If I see someone on with, say a cute pair of leggings and top, Ill look for something like that. TV shows and movies play a minor role on informing the participants about fashion. A few mentioned that they enjoy watching shows such as What Not To Wear or Project Runway along with watching the Fashion Network. Some might notice something they liked on an actor or actress in a movie. One participant in her early fifties and a mother of two, said she bought her teenage daughter a coat similar to one worn by an actress in the movie Confessions of a Shopaholic. Although many of the participants said that they liked to follow trends, some felt limited by their budget or body type. The male college students agreed to a standard American look for men: jeans and a tshirt. They contend that their choices are not as varied as they are for women. One confessed that he has not changed his look in years, and hes only 20 years old. Another has used the same suit since high school because a guy only needs one suit. One of the male students felt that there was not enough fashion information for men, while another male student, who also works as a real estate agent, said that, There are more choices than my mind can bear.

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Another source of fashion information came from the participants friends and family. Sometimes it was outspoken such as one married participants husband telling her he did not like something she bought or her kids telling her that her fashion choice was wrong for her. For the guys, some tended to define their clothing choices by the activities they participated in, such as being an athlete and wearing sports brands, or the friends they hang out with, such as snowboarders have a certain look and way of dressing. There were quite a variety of answers from the participants regarding fashion information including sticking to what has worked in the past and ignoring new trends or learning new fashion styles for oneself by taking a chance on something different and using trial and error. Several would like to keep up with trends but were limited by budget and time constraints. From the discussion it was also apparent that those who shop frequently, even if they do not make a purchase every time, are constantly informing themselves of the current trends and latest styles. They are visually taking it in three dimensionally through their window shopping and hands on experiences. They notice the trends by what is displayed on the mannequins or at the front of the clothing racks. Window shopping, print and electronic media, opinions of friends and family, and observing people on the street were all ways that the participants took in fashion information, some with enjoyment and others with a feeling of being overwhelmed. Shopping experiences and feelings Many of the female participants love to shop and they derive a great deal of pleasure from the experience. This enthusiasm was more typical among the younger female participants in all the womens groups, with ten of the eleven women under the age of twenty who loved or liked shopping; whereas, only five of the ten women over the age of 30 liked or loved shopping.

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The remaining five women over the age of thirty disliked shopping, with three saying that they hated it. Table 4-1. Under/Over Age 30: Womens Feelings about Clothes Shopping Loves shopping 7 2 Likes 3 3 Neutral 0 1 Dislikes 0 1 Hates 1 3

Women under 30 (n=11) Women over 30 (n=10)

The men did not view shopping as something to enjoy as an activity. Rather they viewed it as a way to acquire the things they wanted. When asked what they liked about shopping, one male participant replied, Getting new things. When it came to buying clothes the men agreed with the sentiment expressed by one of their group, clothes are so similar, it doesnt matter if you buy it now or later. They seemed to enjoy buying accessories such as hats or watches, or buying shoes, better than buying clothes. The women, on the other hand, had a full range of experiences and feelings regarding shopping for clothes, shoes and accessories. One adult female student, who is married and the mother of teenagers, did not enjoy shopping and found it torture to find things that fit. She was also frustrated by the lack of age appropriate clothing in the stores, feeling that the styles are either geared to teenagers or her grandmother. On the other hand, another female shopper, who is in her late 40s and the mother of five kids, derives a lot of enjoyment from shopping and is quite expert at it. She knows where to shop, how to get the best prices, and what brands and styles work best for her. She enjoyed window shopping, could wait for things she liked to go on sale, and only occasionally splurged on a unique expensive item to add to her wardrobe.

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Similar scenarios occurred with the young female participants as well. One 17-year-old high school student loves shopping and goes at least once a week. She has a part time job and spends her money on clothes. She buys something new every week, and is not concerned about price if she likes the item. As she put it, If I see something I like, I have to get it. I cant wait for it to go on sale. Another female participant that is working and likes to shop and keep up with trends said: I like to shop at least once a week. I would say Friday is my day to go. I like to stop in and see if there is something new in or if they have a sale. Although most of the women liked shopping and buying clothes, there were a number of things they disliked about their shopping experiences. The primary complaint they mentioned was finding clothes that fit properly. Most of the women complained of size and fit issues. I have trouble finding things that fit me because I have long legs so I need long. But I have a short torso, so I need petite tops. I know I have certain stores that I always go to. I go to the same stores all the time because I know their pants will fit. The only reason I dont like it is because it is hard to buy certain items since Im taller. Like shirts arent long enough or pants arent long enough. I need to go shopping for pants but Ive been delaying it since its so hard. I have the problem since Im so short. [I dont like] Finding something you like and it doesnt fit or they dont have it in the right size (some chimed in on this). They never have the right size. I have three pairs of the same jeans, same cut, same size from Old Navy and they all fit differently. They are frustrated that size numbers vary greatly from one brand to another, and by brands discontinuing a style that had worked for them in the past. Another female shopper complained that an item might look great on the hangar but when she tries it on it looks terrible.

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Although many of the shoppers like discounts, several dislike looking through cluttered discount racks or going to discount stores that mix many brands and styles into the racks. They find it difficult to find something they would like and one mentioned that she needed to take her mother with her when she goes to discount stores to look through the racks and pick things out for her. They may also be frustrated by discounts that are advertised but do not apply to the clothing items that they pick out, or they end up spending more when they have coupons. I dont like Filenes basement places. They have a lot of good sale stuff, but you have to look through a million and two things, so I end up leaving in a minute. I dont know why I go in there in the first place. Its overwhelming. Its too much to look at. I have trouble looking through sales racks. Theyre too cluttered. You get coupons in the mail and you say I can save but when you get to the store you end up spending more. I go to the register, and they say, Sorry that doesnt count. Sorry that doesnt count. Other pressures and frustrations, such as needing to buy a new dress for a special occasion or looking for a particular color or style to complete an outfit, can add to shopping frustrations. Several participants expressed difficulties in finding something they had in mind and then having to settle on something that they did not really want, but needed to make a purchase for an event, or walking out of the store empty-handed since they could not find the specific item they were looking for. If I have something coming up and I have to get something, then I feel that awful pressure that I have to get something right away. Then you find something that you dont really like that much, but you buy it because you need to get something. I hate it if you have one thing in mind, like one particular style in mind, or one particular color and you cant find it.

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After searching for a specific item and settling on something else, some of the women are then dismayed to see it weeks or months after they initially needed the item. Dont you hate it when you cant find what you want, so you buy something similar that youre not really satisfied with, and then two months later you find it. I have that problem too. I have something in mind that I want to buy and I see it two months later. When both the men and women found an item that they really liked and it fit well, they would buy duplicates of the item or buy it in several different colors. They would do this for jeans, shirts and even shoes. The disappointment arose when they needed to buy these items at some future point, and the particular brand they liked changed the styling or the item was no longer available. Both the men and women also admitted to having clothes in their closets with the price tags still dangling from them. For the men they were usually gifts that they never wore, since their normal purchases were very specific for items that they needed and wore. The women, however, would sometimes make purchases of items that they liked and thought they would wear at some future point. Often the occasion has not arisen to wear the item as expressed here: I have dresses still in my closet with tags on them waiting to be worn. There are items I see at the store and I say This is a must have. Like the little black dress. You can never go wrong, in my opinion, with two or three black dresses I know Ill wear them this summerThere are pieces that I can definitely pull at some point and say Alright this is what I need for this time. I have a lot of clothes with their tags on them. I dont wear them. Like there was never the right occasion to wear them. Like dresses, Ive bought so many Ive never worn. But I think maybe one day Ill wear them. But I never did. If I have a blouse that I need a pair of pants for, and I never get the pants to match, so three years later, out goes the blouse.

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I forget what I buy sometimes. Im going through my closet, and I say Oh look at this! . Then you try it on and it doesnt fit anymore. Thats upsetting. When asked if they ever return items they purchased and did not wear, the replies varied from hating to return things, not minding it, to maybe once or twice but rather not. One participant will return things if her husband does not like it or her kids tell her it does not look good. Other solutions for the clothes that were not worn include donating them to charity, giving them away to friends, or taking them to a consignment shop. Every once in a while, the participants will clean out their closets to make room for new clothes purchases. Fashion decisions: stores, brands, styles The participants have particular stores that they favor when they go shopping for clothes, shoes and accessories. Such as this example from one of the women in her mid-twenties: I would say that I always go to the same stores I like to shop at at least once a week. I like to stop in and see if there is something new in or if they have a sale. I always go to the same places. Most had fairly strong opinions about the stores they liked, and the ones that they did not like, to shop at. The stores they discussed were all nationally known and are in the malls and shopping centers. None of the participants went into the city to shop at specialty stores or boutiques. They all were mall, shopping center (or town center), and/or outlet shoppers. A few participants also shop at yard sales looking for quality clothing items on the cheap. Feelings were mixed on the discount stores, such as TJ Maxx, Marshalls and Filenes Basement. Some liked the deals that could be made on buying designer clothes while others disliked the congestion and overstuffed sale racks. However, the shoppers liked discount shoe stores such as DSW for designer shoes or Payless for everyday shoes.

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Target was the big box store most frequently mentioned that the shoppers liked, one participant mentioning the designer lines offered there such as Vera Wang. One shopper sometimes went to Wal-mart and another to Sams Club for clothing purchases. King of Prussia Mall and Concord Mall were the two malls most frequented by the participants. The anchor department stores that they favored included Boscovs, Macys, and Nordstrom. The shoppers seemed to favor these three department stores, liking their selection and the good sales that they had. Kohls was the main stand alone department store that was frequented by the shoppers, who also liked the selections, sales and discounts available at this store. Some of the stores that the women like to shop at include: Ann Taylor, The Loft, American Eagle, Guess, Lane Bryant, Old Navy, Gap, Chicos, Talbot, and Anthropologie. The stores the male participants named included Banana Republic, PacSun, Urban Outfitters, Champs, and Foot Locker. The men also mentioned the following brands that they liked to buy: Nike, Jordan, Reebok, Nautica, Polo, Liberty and Invicta. Along with choosing the shopping venue, the participants were also asked about their fashion decisions once inside the stores. In talking about specifics regarding fashion purchases, the discussion turned to talk about shoes. The men were, again, very sensible about buying shoes. They did not own as many shoes as the women, and bought the brands that they used in the past. They did seem to take more time when buying shoes since they needed to try them on. But one of the male students says that he regularly buys his shoes online since he knows his size and what he wants to get. The women, on the other hand, had more to say about shoes, a few saying that they love shoes, and one expressed that she loves buying shoes since they always fit as compared

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to the variations in fit and size of clothes. There was discussion about the types of shoes that the women like. Some preferred heels, others flats. Some loved boots, others sandals. Some hated sneakers, others sought the most comfortable shoes they could find. The shoe discussion also turned to occasions for wearing particular shoes. The women mostly agreed that heels looked professional and were best for wearing on a job interview, even if the wearer found them uncomfortable. The discussion also turned to the topic of designer shoes. A few had designer shoes, two owned Michael Kors, one owned Prada, and two owned Ugg boots. The prices paid varied though. One participant spent the full $250 price for the Michael Kors, while the other found them on sales and bought two pairs each costing about $150. The owner of the Prada shoes bought them at a yard sale for $2, yet the retail price was $500. The owners of the Uggs each paid the full price of $150, but commented about how long they last and how much they wear them. Many of the participants, though, felt that they could never spend full designer prices on shoes and preferred buying them at discount shoe stores such as DSW. Generally, most agreed that they would not spend more than $75 to $100 for shoes, and they would only spend that much on something they needed for a special occasion. When the discussion turned to jeans, the participants, both men and women, were very specific about what they wanted in a pair of jeans. Primarily, they wanted a good fit and relied on brands to answer this need. Once they found one that works, they would return to it, and if it was discontinued, there was frustration in needing to find a replacement. For the women, some of the particular details they looked for in jeans included dark wash, back pocket flaps (or not), high rise, boot cut and standard five pocket jeans. Many

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disliked the skinny jeans, very low rise, and muffin tops (picture flab spilling over the top of ones jeans). The men also preferred dark jeans since they could also be worn with a button down shirt for going out. This was an easy dressing up look for them. The womens groups also engaged in discussions about color. Some specifically look for certain colors when they shop. They also noticed the colors that were currently in style by what is being displayed in the stores. Yellows and greens are what they are seeing displayed this season. But they also refer to the colors that they like to frequently wear, such as pinks or purples, regardless of the current trend. Since the mens style seemed so basic, jeans and a t-shirt and the one suit in the closet, they were asked about what they plan to do about their wardrobe when they graduate and are working in the corporate world. They concurred that it would require one shopping trip to buy five pairs of khakis, Dockers or dress pants, and five shirts that they would mix and match. Fashion solution: fashion consulting store The concept of a mall-based fashion consulting store was introduced to the participants to determine if this would be a solution to some of their fashion frustrations. The shoppers would go to the consulting store before they began shopping in the mall to meet with a fashion consultant expert who would design a shopping plan that listed the clothes that would best suit their body type and the stores in the mall that carried them. They would pay a fee for this service. There were mixed reactions from the groups. Two of the participants that loved to shop, and already had their own particular style, did not like the idea of someone telling them what was right for them. They did not want someone else telling them what to wear or what to buy. They felt that it would be stifling, limiting, and possibly wrong.

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I dont think I would ever use any of that. Maybe its good for some people but not for me. Their idea of what is good for you may not be what you think is good for you. What you wear is part of you, I think. I dont know. I feel like if they gave me certain rules that I would feel confined to the rules. A couple of participants felt that people would not like to be critiqued by an expert, and even though they might need the help, they would not seek it. Some people would probably feel bad about going, because I dont want someone telling me. And then other people wouldnt take the initiative to go and do that. Some dont realize it. You have to be very careful critiquing someone. Some people get insulted when you critique them. Some of the men felt that they wouldnt need a service since the style for men is so simple. They may only need such a service once or twice in a lifetime, say for a formal occasion or a suit purchase, but not on an ongoing basis. I think our style is really simple and we dont need that. For something special, like a suit, I would want to be fitted and get something nice. But I dont need someone to tell me what t-shirt or pair of jeans to get. Others wondered if it would be something that would fit into their budget. They were concerned about paying for the service, or wondered if others would be willing to pay for the service of a fashion expert. Im on a tight budget so I would still want to be able to buy the clothes. It depends on the prices. Im cheap. Some people might not have the money to go You would have to be willing to pay for a service, though. Some felt that even with shopping rules and itemized lists given to them, that there could still be problems when it came to going to the stores and selecting the suggested items.

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When they give them the rules (referring to the What Not To Wear show), the women all say the same thing: theyre so confused. Theres so much to look at. Theyre [still] not certain what works for them. What happens if the person doesnt like anything [the consultant] picked. Do they get a refund? However, there were also positive reactions to the fashion consulting store concept. There were a few tentative expressions of curiosity about it. Some said they would like to try it once. Others felt that there were situations where it would be very helpful to have expert advice, such as for a work wardrobe. Some even thought it could be a way for a person to better themselves through improving their wardrobe with the help of an expert. For others, who are interested in fashion but have a hard time putting a look together, this type of service would be very useful for them to complete their look. Still for others, who are extremely busy and limited with time, the idea is very appealing as a time-saver. A few of the participants thought that there were many people walking around that could really use this kind of service. There were participants who liked the idea of an expert picking out the right clothes for them and telling them where to buy them. Several of the women responded as follows: I would definitely use a place like that. For someone who doesnt have the time, you need someone [to help]. I loved going out with someone who could show me what to get (referring to a shopping experience with a friend who helped her buy professional clothes). I didnt have to worry about going to a store and not finding something that doesnt fit well or look right. (female graduate student) I feel that for work that it would be good. Someone that could give me age appropriate [choices] within my budget that would look good for work, and tell me where to buy it, that would really help. I would like to be able to say, Im on a tight budget, but this is what I need, and then they would be able to direct me to those stores. If they did all my bargain shopping for me; if they knew all the stores and what sales they had, that would be great. It would save me so much time. (female working college grad) I would say that, because Im so busy, I would use that service for power shopping. I only have so much time to go shopping If I could go to somebody and they had my body type, and they could say go to Pennys and go to this

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section, or they had things pulled for me; if the result was, heres your wardrobe, and I walked out with it, then hell, yeah. Im at this stage in life that this is a service I would pay for. (working 50-year-old woman) If it was an event, if I had something formal, then I would use that service right away. Thats not an easy shop for me (buying something formal). for people who need work clothes, I would love for someone to pick out a bunch of clothes and then I would pick out what I like from that. (female teacher mid-twenties) The participants did have a number of suggestions that would make the service more appealing to them, even for the guys. Namely, they would prefer that the consulting service went a step further and had the clothes available for them to try on, rather than sending them to the store to pick the clothes out of the racks. They liked the idea of going into the fashion consulting store, having the expert take their measurements and information, then having the items at the consulting store to try on. As one of the male students said, If it was one stop, the clothes would be brought to me, then that would make the service worthwhile. Since this would probably not be logistically possible, the idea was presented to the participants that the consultant would notify the recommended stores, and have the stores pull the clothes and have them ready for the shoppers to try them on when they went to the stores. Most were receptive to this idea, although they wondered if the stores would be willing to do this. Thats a lot of work for the stores to do. Sometimes salespeople in stores dont even want to help you. So to go around and pull everything, then [the service] would have to charge more for that. You would probably have to pay that person to pull the stuff. I would like that (having the clothes pulled at the stores and ready to try on). I go to the stores and every month the style changes. I dont like looking in a lot of different stores. Yes, please! Yes, please! ....I would try on the stuff they pulled for me then shop some more.

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But overall, they liked the idea of having items ready at the stores to try on. They also felt that they would probably frequent those stores again in the future once they had certain stores recommended to them for their particular style. A few other points arose, such as what if the customer is not satisfied? What if they do not like anything that the service recommended? Would they get a refund? How would you satisfy them? One of the college men recommended setting up the service similar to Pandora, the online radio station. The station has users start off with an artist or song they they like, then a radio station is developed around that style song or artist. The user can check if they like the song, or disliked it. By doing this the radio station becomes more fine tuned to the users needs. He felt that something similar could be done with the service. That over time, the fashion consulting storeas they came to know their customers likes and dislikes within the recommended stylewould have a highly refined-database of their customers fashion look and needs. But in the end, one female participant summed it up best in this way: Its like an interior designer. A lot of people love it and do it on their own. Some people need help with it and they hire someone. Its like the same kind of need. And there are people that like fashion and just need a little help.

Shopper Traits The participants from the focus groups all exhibited certain personality traits in their shopping and purchasing experiences for their wardrobes. There are the well-informed, confident shoppers that are virtually experts who love shopping. There are the ones that love to shop, but are not always sure of what they are buying. They feel that they need some help, whether it is with accessorizing or picking out a dress for a special occasion. There are those who may like

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shopping but have time or money pressures. Since they are limited by time or money, it is hard to derive complete satisfaction from the shopping experience. There are ones that view shopping as a means to get what they want. They like getting new things, but not necessarily shopping. There are those that dislike shopping and are frustrated by trying to find the right size and fit. And there are those that just plain hate shopping, and dislike everything about it.

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Chapter 5 Survey Results The participants of the focus groups each completed a brief survey providing demographic and shopping information. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 display the results of the survey. Table 5-1. Spring 2010 Focus Group Participant Survey Results Survey was approved by Penn States Office of Research Protections.
Basic Information Gender: Female Male Age Range: 17-20 21-23 24-26 27-29 31-39 40-49 50-59 Education Level: High School Student College Student Some College Undergrad Degree Grad Degree or Student Current College Students - Year: Freshman Sophomore Junior Senior Occupation: Working Not working Student Status: Single/Dating Married/Relationship 3 5 6 3 3 4 2 5 14 17 31 45.2% 54.8% 100.0% College Women 8 0 8 1 4 1 1 1 0 0 College Men 0 9 9 0 7 2 0 0 0 0 Mixed Group 6 1 7 1 0 3 0 0 1 2 Mature Women 7 0 7 0 0 0 0 1 5 1 Totals 21 10 31 2 11 6 1 2 6 3 31 1 17 4 6 3 31 0 2 5 10 17 3 3 1 7 0 0 10 3 18 31 Percent 67.7% 32.3% 100.0% 6.5% 35.5% 19.4% 3.2% 6.5% 19.4% 9.7% 100.0% 3.2% 54.8% 12.9% 19.4% 9.7% 100.0% 0.0% 11.8% 29.4% 58.8% 100.0% 32.3% 9.7% 58.1% 100.0%

0 8 0 0 0

0 9 0 0 0

1 0 1 4 1

0 0 3 2 2

0 1 4 3

0 1 1 7

0 0 8

0 0 9

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College Women Clothes Shopping Experiences Shopping frequency: 4-7 days/month 1-3 days/month Less than 1 day/month Shop more often alone? with a friend? with a family member? with bf/gf/spouse? College Men Mixed Group Mature Women Totals Percent

3 3 2

0 6 3

5 1 1

1 1 5

9 11 11 31 16 8 5 2 31 3 28 31 1 30 31 6 25 31

29.0% 35.5% 35.5% 100.0% 51.6% 25.8% 16.1% 6.5% 100.0% 9.7% 90.3% 100.0% 3.2% 96.8% 100.0% 19.4% 80.6% 100.0%

2 3 3 0

3 4 0 2

6 1 0 0

5 0 2 0

Prefer to shop online rather than store? yes 0 no 8

3 6

0 7

0 7

Someone else pick clothes for you while shopping? yes 0 1 no 8 8 Someone buy clothes for you without you there? yes 1 no 7

0 7

0 7

4 5

1 6

0 7

Table 5-2. Average Analysis Result of Shopping Data

College Women 21 36 205 College Men 12 26 49 Mixed Group 28 29 180 Standard Deviation 2.2 1.9 18.0 Mature Women 7 22 219 Mini mum 0 1 3 Totals 68 113 653

Days per month shopping Number of stores per trip Number of pairs of shoes

Variable Days per month shopping for clothes Number of stores per shopping trip Number of pairs of shoes you own

Average 2.2 3.6 21.1

Maximum 7 10 70

Sample 31 31 31

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The survey shows a wide variety of responses in each of the categories. However, there are certain similarities in responses per group. Both the Male College Student group and the Mature Women group spent significantly less time clothes shopping per month than the other two groups, with the Mature Women shopping the least of all groups with most saying they spend less than one day per month shopping. What was interesting about the mature womens group was the fact that, even though they shop the least number of days at a total of seven days per month for the seven women (average 1 day/month), they own the most pairs of shoes of all the groups at a total of 219 pairs (average 31.3 pairs/person). Compare this to the mens group, who shop a total of 12 days per month for nine men (average 1.3 days/month) and own a total of 49 pairs of shoes (average 5.4 pairs/person) among them. Another point of interest is the fact that the mixed-age group, which shopped the most frequently (average 4 days/month), owned less pairs of shoes per person (average 25.7 pairs/person) than the mature womens group. The college womens group shopped a total of 21 days per month averaging 2.6 days/moth and owned 205 pairs of shoes for the eight women averaging 25.6 pairs/person. The college women visit the most stores per shopping trip at a group total of 36 (average 4.5 stores/person) compared to the mature women who have the lowest total of stores visited per trip of 22 (average 3.1 stores/person). The Mixed-age group, who had the highest frequency of shopping days, went to a total of 29 stores per trip (average 4.1 stores/person). The mens group total of 26 stores per shopping trip averages 2.9 stores/person. For these groups, frequency of shopping and number of stores visited does not correspond to the number of pairs of shoes owned.

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It is also interesting to note the wide range of values among individuals in regard to their their shopping habits as indicated in Table 5-2. The number of days per month shopping ranged from 0 to 7, the number of stores frequented range from 1 to 10, and the number of pairs of shoes owned range from 3 to 70. The wide ranges indicate that there is a need for further investigation into the shopping behaviors and decisions of consumers, and a better understanding of who these individuals are as consumers and where they fit into the market.

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Chapter 6 Discussion and Conclusions

The participants of the focus groups exhibited many of the behaviors as described in the literature review regarding consumer fashion decisions and shopping behaviors. Some of the participants also displayed the effects of information overload, such as the feeling of being overwhelmed; and most employed methods to handle fashion information that they seek or that comes to them through various media and observation. Consumer behavior among the focus group participants As described in chapter 2, consumers may be divided into opinion leaders and opinion seekers, and indeed our sample exhibited these characteristics. Two of the female participants one of the college students in her mid-twenties, and one of the women from the mixed-age group in her late 40swere clearly fashion opinion leaders. Both shopped frequently; did not feel compelled to buy on their shopping trips; window shopped to gather information for later use; felt that they had their own style; did not seek input from others; and would not be interested in a fashion consultant telling them what to wear. The 17-year-old also showed signs of being an opinion leader with her frequent shopping, quick decision-making on purchases, her huge wardrobe (does not repeat an outfit at school for at least a month), her interest in fashion TV, and her disinterest in someone else critiquing what she wears. The group contained many fashion opinion seekers in that they look to others for cues on what is the latest trend. They may enjoy fashion and shopping but notice what others are wearing

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and seek to copy something they like when they go shopping as mentioned by several of the participants. The men could be called fashion opinion seekers since they wear what they call the American style of jeans and a t-shirt. This is gained from their own observations of what others are wearing around them. They also apply that to their sports attire, such as the skateboarders or surfers having their own style that they copy from one another. In the focus groups, there was a wide variety of ages representing the generational market segments. It was interesting to note that the participants behaved similarly to the market definitions. The Millennials were described by Moore and Carpenter (2008) as enjoying shopping the most, being the least concerned about quality, and the most concerned about prestige. The 17-year-old high school student, described as an opinion leader earlier, fits this description exactly. The college and working women participants in their 20s also love shopping the most and were the most concerned about trends. The male college students in their 20s, however, did not completely fit the description of the millennial shoppers since they did not enjoy shopping and were careful about how much they spent. Although they felt there was a standard American way of dressing for guys (jeans and tshirt) there was a hint at prestige through their choice in clothing brands and in accessory purchases, such as watches and hats. The description that Moore and Carpenter gave to Boomersthey enjoy shopping the least, look for quality, and are price sensitiveapplies completely to the group participants that were close to 50-years-old. They echoed these sentiments with expressions of hating shopping, concern for quality fabrics, construction and durability, and they were very aware of sales, discounts, bargain shopping. What is interesting to note about the focus group sample of boomers is that they were part of the generation that Majima (2008) spoke of in her study about

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the fashion boom of the 1960s. They were the generation of teens that outspent their parents and pushed for a continual flow of new fashion, which led to fast fashion and rapid style changes. Information overload among the focus group participants Several of the female members of the focus groups expressed the overwhelming feeling of information overload, where they did not have enough time to gather and use information effectively as described by Savolainen (2007). Only one of the men felt that there were more choices than his mind could bear, also indicating a feeling of being overwhelmed from too much information. Although not every participant expressed the feelings associated with information overload, most employed strategies that prevent or contend with information overload when shopping for clothes, shoes and accessories. Two of the problems for the particular participants who are experiencing information overload is that they are either unable to go shopping when they would like (lack of time), or they are unable to make the purchases they would like to make (lack of funds). Both these impediments may mean that the information they haveperhaps the latest style of jeans they saw in a magazine, a flyer that came in the mail from their favorite store, or a cute outfit they saw someone wearingneeds to be processed in a different way since they may be storing information that they are unable to act on. The graduate student, in particular, is constrained with both a lack of time and a lack of funds. Before graduate school, she enjoyed shopping for clothes regularly, and now it is an ordeal. She still likes fashion and trends, but is limited due to the time and budget constraints. Several other participants felt the budget constraints more than the time limitations. They may go to their favorite stores and malls armed with information they gathered from magazines, TV, store flyers, and window-shopping, and may even have certain items in mind that they

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would like to buy, but are unable to follow through and purchase due to budget limitations. It is as if the information is stuck in a funnel and, without the ability to let the information flow through the funnel by acting on it and buying the desired item, the feeling of being overwhelmed by the information remains. One of the strategies for dealing with information overload is to filter the information: keeping what is meaningful and dropping out what is not. The mens group is very adept at filtering information. They use the gift filter: moms and girlfriends buy for them so they do not have to shop as often. They use the American mens wardrobe filter: buy jeans and t-shirts for virtually all occasions, with really no need for anything else. They use the sports lifestyle filter: shirt, jacket and cap of their favorite sports team...why would you wear any other? Choosing particular stores to shop at is another way the participants filter information. They may not even notice the other stores in the mall or at the shopping centers. The stores themselves also act as filters for the shoppers. The merchandise buyers for the stores would have selected items they believe the consumers will want to purchase, and in the process, filter out other styles that do not match the stores branding. This provides consistent information for the participants and helps to explain why they go back to the same stores over and over. The older women shoppers tend to queue information more than the younger shoppers, who will act on buying what they see rather than waiting. The mature women like bargains and discounts, and will remember items that they want to purchase and wait for it to go on sale. Window shopping is another means of queuing that the participants employ. They may see something they like while browsing and either wait until they have the money in their budget to purchase it, or wait for the item to go on sale. .

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Other information coping-strategies include pulling information that the consumer is interested in from various sources, such as a web search; and pushing information which is the information that stores provide to consumers who have rewards cards or store credit cards. Customers may receive emails, store circulars, coupons and the like from the stores they frequent. This information comes to the shoppers, but it is based on their preferences. Finally, consumers can completely withdrawal from receiving information in order to cope. They choose not to read the store circulars, look through magazines, watch fashion TV shows, or shop very often such as those who shop less than once a month. The participants may have used various strategies to contend with fashion information, but they have also experienced drawbacks to the strategies employed. There are many stores that the participants do not choose to shop at (filter), but they wonder if they are missing out on something that would work for them at one of those stores. They may have waited for a desired item to go on sale (queuing), but when they went to the store the item was sold out or not available in their size. They may have been looking for an outfit for a special occasion (pull), but could not find anything age-appropriate. They received a store circular in the mail from their rewards program (push), but the outfit advertised does not fit them right. And, finally, some participants may not shop for months (withdrawal), then complain about how much they hate shopping when they finally do. To help shoppers find a solution to their shopping woes, the concept of a mall-based fashion consulting store was introduced. The participants were presented with the idea that someone else would do the information gathering for them. A fashion expert would filter through the fashion information from all available sources and provide the consumer with a personalized list of the clothing, shoes and accessories that best suited the shoppers age, size, and body-type.

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The shopper would have a detailed plan that outlined the stores and the items at each store to purchase for their wardrobe needs. The response to the concept was mixed as outlined below: 1. 2. 3. 4. It would be a helpful service for creating a professional work wardrobe. It would be helpful in pulling a look together, or completing a look. It would save the shopper time. It might save the shopper money if the expert directed the shopper to the stores with best bargains and sales items. 5. It would be helpful due to the continually changing styles. 6. The information learned from the consultation could be used on future shopping trips. 7. It could provide the shopper with new stores and ideas. 8. It would be helpful if the clothes were pulled for them to try on. 9. The shopping instructions given could be confusing. 10. The shoppers may not like the consultants choices for them. 11. Some shoppers are not interested in an experts opinion. 12. It may take away from their own sense of style. 13. The mens everyday and work style is so simple, they dont need it. 14. The men may only need it for a special occasion. 15. The consulting service might be too expensive and cut into the shoppers budget.

The participants of the four focus groups are all unique individuals with a variety of clothes shopping behaviors, experiences, and feelings towards the process. The following section attempts to draw some conclusions about this market research study.

Conclusion Due to the limitations of focus groups and the small sample of the participant survey, the data collected for this research study is not applicable to the clothes shopping market as a whole. However, the insights gained from the responses and discussions of the four focus groups have provided some information to encourage further investigation into the needs of the clothes shopping market. It is clear from the responses of the participants that many are experiencing frustration with all aspects of the clothes shopping experience. Some of their frustrations include

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size and fit issues, time and budget constraints, and clothing quality, fabrics and construction concerns. They are also concerned about style as they spoke of the attributes of the jeans and shoes they purchased, or the colors that are currently the trend. They are concerned about making purchases for their professional wardrobe and for special occasions. They are concerned about missed opportunities and keeping up with the latest fashion. As one of the participants very simply explained it: I do feel better if Im dressed nice. When I go to work, and Im dressed right, I have a good day. When Im not dressed right, I feel like I have a bad day.

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Diane M. Paolo Academic Vitae 37 Paul Lane, Glen Mills, PA 19342 Phone: (610) 358-3855 Email: dmp5235@psu.edu

EDUCATION The Pennsylvania State University, Brandywine Campus, Media, PA Cooper Honors Program Bachelor of Science in Business, Marketing and Management

May 2010

HONORS THESIS Spring 2010 Shop Til You Drop?A Study of Consumer Experiences and Feelings About Shopping and Making Fashion Choices Thesis Supervisor: Dr. Julie Stanton, Associate Professor of Business Thesis Reader: Dr. Susan Fredricks, Associate Professor of Communication Arts & Sciences WORK EXPERIENCE KEVALIN, Marketing 2009-current Develop marketing concepts and design creative for alternative rock band PPM Communications, Inc., Art Director, Marketing, Partner 2000-current Design and layout of Practical Pain Management cover, editorial, and advertisements Communicate and meet with media planners regarding advertising LAGOS, Steven Lagos Designer Jewelry, Photographer and Graphic Designer 2002-2008 Photographed new jewelry designs for marketing, cataloging, and advertising Developed creative for Look Book and market packets INTERNSHIP EXPERIENCE Research Internship: MyLook: The What to Wear Store Fall 2009 Developed a business concept for a new fashion service experience based in a retail situation designed to make clothing shopping easier and more productive for consumers. SCHOLARSHIP/HONOR SOCIETY Visual Sound Endowment Award Phi Kappa Phi

2009-2010 March 2010

PRESENTATION Paolo, D., International Business and the Australian Jewelry Industry. Presented at EURECA Exhibition of Undergraduate Research and Creative Accomplishment, Penn State Brandywine, Media, PA, April 15, 2009. Presented by undergraduate author D. Paolo.