Ikat textiles known as bandhas Have a distinct native identity Started from a religious point of view(Jaganath Puri) Mostly

done on single ikat Recently started with double ikat sarees Patronised for generation by local population of all social strata 40000 looms scattered around Orissa Production of large quantities of ikat in Tussar Silk

Represented by two weaver community : the Mehers of Sonepur and Bargarh and the Patras from Naupatna and Cuttack Traditionally Patra weavers from Nautpatna specialised in Bandhas of mulberry and Tussar Silk and the Mehers of Bargarh mainly weaved cotton ikats.

Jayadeva, the great poet of the 12th century, wished to offer the sacred Gita Gobinda text to Lord Jaganath, Lord of the universe. In order to ensure close proximity to his deity, he decided to procure fabrics with lyrics woven into them with which to adorn the image. So impressed was King Ramchandradeva by this symbolic act that he immediately placed orders for these fabrics in Naupatna. Each Pheta contained one shloka or verse woven into it. Today the weavers from the patra community in Naupatna continue to weave these traditional Gita Gobinda Fabrics.

An interesting custom about the antiquity of ikat weaving in Orissa says that each family preserves a small piece of fabric woven by their forefathers to the seventh generation. When an elder dies, his successor adds his fabric to those of his ancestors. The fabrics apparently endowed with some mystical significance, are kept in secret places and are not ordinarily available for inspection.

1 Bhubaneshwar 2 Naupatna 3 Sambalpur 4 Bargarh 5 Bolangi .

Weavers community

Meher

Gauduia Patra

Asani Patra

Kuli Kuli are labour class meher Meher Costa Costa are TASSAR weavers Bhulia Tie and Dye weavers in cotton Bhulia is also called as DEVANGAS In last ten years a scheduled caste GONDAS have also learnt tie and dye technique.

SOCIO-ECONOMIC CONDITIONS
Highly skilled tie and dye weaver earns as much as Rs.300/- per month. An ordinary tie and dye weaver earns Rs 75/- per month. Bargarh is the largest area of cotton tie and dye weavers. There are almost 5500-6000 tie and dye weavers in Orissa are actively engaged. The cost of a cotton tie and dye saree varies from Rs 20Rs 120. Silk tie and dye saree is from Rs140- Rs 220. The tie and dye fabrics , particularly silk and cotton sarees are in demand in Delhi,Calcutta and Bombay markets.

Tassar silk Cotton (mercerised) Vegetable dyes

Pit Looms Raised Pit Looms Frame Looms

Pit Loom

Raised pit loom

Bargarh-Sonepur Cotton tie and dye material : Rs. 25 to Rs 50 per meter Cotton tie and dye saree : Rs 300 to Rs 750 Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400

Naupatna Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400 Tassar tie and dye saree : Rs. 650 to Rs. 700 Tassar and Spun Silk furnishing material Rs 100 per meter
The prices have gone up further by 50 % in the span of

5 years

Organize silk 20/22 Den, 18/20 Den :

Rs 850 to Rs 1150 per kg Rs 700 to Rs 900 per kg Rs 600 per kg Rs 100 perkg Rs 550 to Rs 650 per kg

Charkha Silk

Spun Silk

Art Silk (Rayon)

Tassar reeled yarn

Cotton 17 NF
Rs 182 to Rs 188 per bundle Mercerised and bleached : Rs 410 to Rs 960 per bundle

NAMES OF THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN ORISSA

ORISSA EQUIPMENT NAME

Manga Hatha Latai, Ashara Jantur Uphurna

Loom Sley Small equipment on which warp is wound Wraping Frame Weft preparation Frame

Kamra Baw Pania,Jat Kanda Dungi, Maku Nurie, Phinga Maku

Tie and Dye Frame Heald Reed Small Prin Fly Shuttle Throw Shttle

Unwinding Yarn Preparation of Weft

Preparation of Warp

Street Sizing

Marking of the design and tying

Dyeing

Weaving

Curvilinear lines usage Lotus

Lord Lakshmi Symbol of universe emerging from the sun Seat of brahma the creator

The shankha or conch

Symbolise mystic symbol om Symbolises Nada Brahma or God in the form of sound

Rudraksha
Worn around Lord Shivas neck or devotees of lord shiva Has a spiritual power in these seeds Used for chanting

The Fish

First incarnation of Lord Vishnu One of the symbols of good luck Symbolise prosperity Snake worship Snake believed to be immortal Unending cycle of time and immortality Fertility and Cosmic waters Learning(knowledge)

The coiled serpent

The elephant

Other motifs include various types of creepers, animals like deer, lion,duck and rarely geometrical patterns. Inspiration from architecture, folk painting, mythology and other textiles.

Saktapar

Checkboard design Commonlly used in sarees

Holy script from Gita Gobinda Written by Jayadeva

Phetas

Eye catching deep colours

Red Black Blue Purple Yellow

Striking section of the saree: anchal or pallu of saree

Numerous variations based on the classic Bichitrapur Anchal composed of rows of floral and figurative separated by fine stripes or brocade bands

Originally had two ends as both of them were exposed Borders had flower motifs. Phuliyas could go up to 10 rows. Called 10 phuliyas or bhuliyas

Berhampur
Famous for textured silk saree with typical motifs and khumbhas(temple border) Body of saree : mostly plain Border : extra warp marginal tie and dye effect

Ganjam

Producing mostly dhotis, sarees etc.

Naupatna

Famous for khradra Body and border and anchal done with tie and dye Designs done on mercerised cotton yarn Motifs: animals in combination with floral

Bargarh and Sambalpur

Famous for production of sambalpur sari Cotton, silk and tussar Highly decorative traditional designs Motifs: various forms of animals and floral patterns Exotic colour combinations Products: dress material , furnishing material

Sonepur and Bolengiri

Famous for intricate and innovative designs Traditionally woven by Mehers Pride of the area: Bichitrapur and Saktapar saree Motif : animals, flora, fauna, temple and geometrical forms

Bombai saree western part Khandua saree - Naupatna Bandha Saree every part of Orissa Berhampur saree - Southern Phulbani lot of tribal saree weaving Saktapar Saree or Passapalli Bafta saree

PRODUCTS
Saree Bed cover Cushion Cover Table Cover Tray cloth Skirt Material Table Napkins etc

Cotton

Scarf Stole Than

Cotton and Silk

INSTITUTIONS IN ORISSA
Sri Bhangaban Meher Sri Baja Behra All India Fabric Marketing Co-operative society

Rigid distinctions no longer exist Division of skills and specialisation has entered ikkat production in many villages
Some specialise in tie and dye Neighbouring villages buy dyed yarn to be woven into saree

Traditional motifs once confined to one or the other weaver group are now borrowed and redesigned by both communities. Weavers who once wove only sarees for local usage now produce yardage, scarves, linen excetra for urban and export market.

Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh

By: Bijoy Chandhra Mohanty Second Edition

Ikat Textiles of India

Chelna Desai