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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
- oven mitts, an 'ove glove' or some other way to not burn your hands - a metal knife or palette knife. A butter knife would do the job, but again, not the one you use for butter.
Image Notes 1. gum damar 2. beeswax pastilles 3. aluminum can (shown modified) 4. electric skillet 5. mortar and pestle 6. scale (but not a very good one - a better one is shown later) 7. mini muffin tin 8. ove glove 9. stirring and scraping devices
Step 2: Safety
I know you're probably prone to as much reckless abandon as I am, but please at least read this so you know how you can get hurt and can try to avoid it. You are working with a variety of hazardous materials. Because of this there are a few things you should have to keep yourself protected: - safety glasses Odds are, you won't need these, but if you need them you REALLY need them. Make sure you wear them at least the first time you try this. If you manage to set your wax on fire it will behave much like a grease/oil fire. Hot wax can hit you in the face/eyes and cause severe injury. It sticks and it stays hot for a WHILE. You can also get powdered pigment in your eyes which would be especially problematic if you're making, say, CADMIUM red paint. - breathing protection If you can swing it, it's definitely best to work right next to an open window while you're melting the wax and damar. It's also smart to wear a dust mask at least, and a NIOSH approved mask if possible. Close the window and wear a mask for sure while working with pigments. Powdered pigments can become airborne very easily, and when this happens it is easy to inhale them. Many pigment are highly toxic, so breathing them is not a good idea. - heat protection for your hands I have and 'Ove Glove' and love it to death. Being a glove instead of a mitt gives me a lot more control over what I'm doing. Again, it's hot wax and it can burn you. - baking soda You'll use this in case of a fire. If the wax does start to burn first unplug the skillet, then remove anything flammable from nearby, then, if necessary, use the baking soda to smother the fire. If you put water on it you'll just get dangerous steam. For the record, I've never started a fire or burned myself doing this. But there's no such things as too safe.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
Image Notes 1. gum damar 2. beeswax pastilles 3. aluminum can (shown modified) 4. electric skillet 5. mortar and pestle 6. scale (but not a very good one - a better one is shown later) 7. mini muffin tin 8. ove glove 9. stirring and scraping devices
Image Notes 1. the right kind of scale - this one is used for baking and much more accurate
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
Step 4: Crushing
Use the mortar and pestle to crush the damar. It leaves a residue behind, so I usually crush mine in a small plastic bag to keep my equipment clean. The more crushed it is the faster it will melt. The damar will probably have some organic matter in it, but don't worry about it now.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
Step 6: Melting
Place your wax in your can. Put it on the skillet and turn it to medium heat. DO NOT leave it unattended at any point from now until you're leaving it to harden. If you're using a stove (especially a gas stove with open flame) place the can in a small saucepan with some water in it. The water helps buffer the heat and keep the wax from burning, which is an extra risk when you have open flame. Leave your wax long enough to completely melt to a liquid. You can stir it a bit to help it along (this is where you use your mitts/glove to help not spill it. I hope that was obvious.) When it's really, really liquid add the damar. The damar will take a while to melt (longer than the wax did). Stir it from time to time. The damar is basically tree sap, and it will turn back into a tree sap like substance part way through melting. This will probably stick to your stirrer. Just do your best to scrape it off and get it back into the wax. When it's all COMPLETELY melted your ready for the next step. Trust me, there's no future in rushing this part.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
Image Notes 1. melting my finished encaustic medium 2. smaller cup for coloring small amounts 3. awesome japanese watercolor brush in metallic silver encaustic paint
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Comments
12 comments Add Comment
Greta24 says:
Jan 7, 2009. 11:47 AM REPLY Hi, thank you for offering this instruction. I'm curious, since Damar is actually a form of turpentine can I use that instead of the resin? Thank you, Greta
ksiler17 says:
Oct 17, 2008. 7:29 PM REPLY Are there any type of varnishes that can be used on top of encaustic painting that are premade. i'm really interested in gloss but rock hard finish? what about shellac? thanks . Jun 25, 2007. 11:17 PM REPLY Hmm; do you happen to know of a plasticizer for pine rosin? Something that will cause it (from an alcohol solution, for example) to dry to nice shiny and durable films instead of crystalizing or something? I understand rosin was used in some old varnishes, and I've got the rosin and assorted other things, but I can't find a formula for an actual rosin-based varnish (which I guess is what I want.)
westfw says:
technoplastique says:
Jun 26, 2007. 12:05 AM REPLY It's my understanding that 'rosin' is a form of 'resin' (usually just dried out instead of semi-liquid). Linseed oil will dissolve almost any rosin. In fact, linseed oil is one of the best and most archival oil painting materials available. Pine rosin is a really old varnish ingredient and was used on a lot of European furniture. Contemporary violin makers still seem to use quite a bit of it, and here's a link to a recipe and info on how to make pine rosin into varnish: http://www.newviolinfamily.org/forum/showpost.php?s=6a2877ab80678635681e246d51e21652&p=145&postcount=14 I've never tried that particular formula myself, but being that you're starting with rosin instead of resin it might take a bit more oil to completely dissolve it. There's another (and much more elaborate) recipe available there as well: http://www.newviolinfamily.org/forum/showpost.php?s=6a2877ab80678635681e246d51e21652&p=113&postcount=12 These will probably give you a place to start - let me know if you've got any questions about any of it, I've made a lot of my own paint and mediums over the years....
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/
westfw says:
Thanks. Those look promising... > I've made a lot of my own paint and mediums More fodder for Instructables! I've always been intrigued by "the technology of art"
technoplastique says:
Jul 1, 2007. 2:42 AM REPLY If there's interest in them I'll keep making them - a few years ago I was in a LIBRARY (what are those again?) and found a few really old books on art making. I've been playing around with it ever since. And let me know how those recipes turn out if you try them!
Patrik says:
May 11, 2008. 10:16 PM REPLY Yes please! By the way - I was visiting an artist specializing in encaustic art, during a Open Studios tour this weekend. She used miniature cooking pots from the kids section at Ikea to heat her various encaustic colors on a hotplate. :-D
canida says:
Cool, I'd wanted to know how to do this! Thanks!
technoplastique says:
No problem, I'm glad you were interested! I'll always take requests for info on obscure art techniques.... ;-)
Spl1nt3rC3ll says:
This is a really neat artform, it is really different and unique. If you want, you can add this iBle to the Your Art Group
technoplastique says:
Nov 17, 2007. 5:59 PM REPLY Joined and added - thanks! I've got a lot of other things in process that I'll probably add to that group eventually, too!
Spl1nt3rC3ll says:
Thanks. I can't wait to see the others.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Encaustic-Medium/