GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 63

Jura & Savoie

Wink Lorch
“The good vignerons are not suffering. We all need to
adopt a positive attitude,” commented wine producer
Michel Quenard of Chignin in reaction to a rather
negative speech from Michel Cartier.
Cartier, the president of the Syndicat des Vins
de Savoie, was speaking at the annual St-
Vincent wine celebration in January 2007, held
not, as most years, in a wine village but in
the centre of Savoie’s main town, Chambéry.
In citing the growing crisis in France’s wine
industry, he berated the town’s wine lovers for
not drinking enough Savoie wine and urged
their support. Savoie accounts for less than
WINK LORCH 2 per cent of France’s wine production and
has a ready market in the local ski industry, so
theoretically it suffers much less than other wine regions. Yet there are
many moans to be heard, mostly from producers I do not feature in this
guide. Michel Quenard grasped the point in one. Quality is all, yet it comes
at a price, and there is a valid debate as to who is going to pay for it.
Among potential customers for Savoie wines, in particular the local
restaurants, there is a growing divide between those who search for the
lowest possible price and those who claim that Savoie does not have
sufficient numbers of high-priced wines for them to take the region
seriously. Both types of restaurant can be found in the ski resorts. Those

WINK LORCH is a wine writer and educator with a passion for the mountains and
a chalet in the Haut-Savoie. In 2007, she launched www.winetravelguides.com –
a website for independent wine travellers, initially covering France. She is a
past chairman of the Association of Wine Educators and has contributed to
several books, including Time-Life’s The Wine Guide and Le Cordon Bleu’s Wine
Essentials. Wink particularly enjoys enthusing about wines from vineyards in sight
of snowcapped mountains, whether the Andes, the Alps, or the Jura. She divides
her time between London and the French Alps.
64 WINE REPORT 2008 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 65

catering for package deals in the more downmarket or family resorts UNCERTAINTY OVER Salins-les-Bains, historically famous for
seek rock-bottom prices, whereas in France’s most fashionable resort, HENRI MAIRE its salt production. Celebrating 10 years
of existence, the festival has become a
Courchevel 1850, the sales focus on magnums of First Growth clarets to Rumours and questions surround the fixture for the population of the region
a growing mega-rich foreign clientele (including many Russians) seems to future of the Société Henri Maire, of Franche-Comté. One of France’s
preclude even the best Savoie producers from obtaining multiple listings. négociant and the largest owner of largest wine festivals, with nearly
Not one Courchevel restaurant lists a series of vintages of Michel vineyard land in the Jura region, with 50,000 visitors, this has become an
Grisard’s Domaine Saint-Christophe, although his wines are listed in the around 300 ha. The company, which effective showcase, not just for vins
top restaurants in the valley towns of Annecy, Thonon, and Chambéry. celebrated its 60th anniversary in jaunes, but for all the local wines and
He plans to launch an offensive to rectify the situation. In an effort to 2006, has purchased fewer grapes for tourism. Two neighbouring villages
address the problem, négociant Jean Perrier (known mainly for its good- over the past few harvests and is in the south of the region, Vincelles and
rumoured to have difficulties in the Ste-Agnès, which together have a
value restaurant wines) has invested in advertising in the upmarket
market. In April 2007, a new director- population of under 750, have agreed
Pure Courchevel magazine. The company has just launched a new, more
general was appointed to take over to host the next Percée festival on
expensive Roussette de Savoie, limited to 3,000 bottles, which is listed
from Pierre Menez, long-term PDG 2–3 February 2008.
in one Courchevel restaurant at €95. The Savoie selection in most of the (president director-general) who has
top restaurants is pitiful. retired. Thirty-seven-year-old Stéphane SAVOIE GARAGE WINES
In the Jura, the quality divide is also apparent, with many vignerons Zanella comes from a management LAUNCHED
crying about increased running costs and customers who won’t accept background with Arthur Andersen and,
price rises. The best vignerons once again are bucking the trend. In 2006, since 2003, has been general director Swiss-born wine enthusiast Georges
Stéphane Tissot launched a new Chardonnay cuvée – Clos de la Tour de of the direct sales specialist Club Siegenthaler has created Savoie’s first
Français du Vin. At the same time, garage wines. Produced from vineyards
Curon 2004 – which sold out quickly at a price of €55, almost double
Henri-Michel Maire has retired from on the almost-abandoned Vens-le-Haut
that of vin jaune. It is produced in small quantities from very low-yielding
active management and has been slope in the Seyssel area of Haute-
vines, and Tissot justifies the price because of the extensive work in
appointed president of the company. Savoie, they are made in his own
recreating this steep vineyard. A handful of other Jura vignerons are garage. Siegenthaler aims to make only
Madame Marie-Christine Tarby-Maire
expected to follow suit with their own high-priced selections. top-quality micro-cuvées of high-quality
remains as associate director-general,
assuring some continuity. However, wines, primarily Mondeuse reds, some
Grapevine she is a busy lady, since she is currently Gamay, and white Molette. By selecting
not only president of the Comité grapes at optimum ripeness, using
• British woman Lisa Gilmore has open an oenothèque – a shop that
Interprofessionnel des Vins du Jura but considerably lower yields than normal
purchased a majority interest in an will sell wines from all the producers
also, since 31 January 2007, president in Savoie, and longer extraction in the
11-ha vineyard in the Chautagne area in the region at cellar-door prices.
of Savoie, well known in particular of the French national industry lobby winery, Siegenthaler hopes to produce
for its Gamay and other red wines. • Synthetic corks are being used for group Vin et Société. In April 2007, a Mondeuse that will appeal to
Gilmore, the first British owner of Château-Chalon by Jacques Durand-
she was awarded the prestigious international palates. He is assisted by
a Savoie vineyard, is in negotiations Perron, current president of the
Syndicat des Vins de Château-Chalon. national award of Chevalier de Légion Geneva-based international winemaker
along with two local vignerons to buy
a further vineyard of the same size He has changed to plastic corks for d’Honneur by the French Minister Jean-Michel Novelle. The 1,500 bottles
his whole range, including Château- of the 2005 vintage of Domaine Vens-
nearby, which will create what for for Agriculture.
Chalon, a wine destined to age for
Savoie is a sizable estate. le-Haut Mondeuse sold out before I
decades. Having tested them on his
PERCÉE DU VIN JAUNE had a chance to taste one.
• Building of the Savoie Maison Chardonnay, he was so convinced by
du Vin has started in the village of the results and the positive reaction CELEBRATES 10 YEARS
Apremont, the largest cru in Savoie. of his customers that he decided to
As well as it being home to the switch all his production, saving him On the first weekend of February 2007,
administrative offices, tasting room, around €1,000 per year compared to the Jura wine festival was held in
and laboratory of the Syndicat des cork. Durand-Perron is satisfied that
bright sunshine in the spa town of
Vins de Savoie, there are plans to quality will not suffer.
66 WINE REPORT 2008 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 67

Opinion: producers, especially from the largest crus of Apremont and Abymes. The
lack of promotion of the region as a whole, but in particular of its better
wines, means that it’s really only a sense of adventure that encourages a
Jura labelling continues to confuse tourist to try a Savoie wine. If that drinker happens to be in a restaurant
in a ski resort, more than likely the wine will be downright uninteresting
Opinions vary within this tiny wine region as to whether the large range or, worse, simply bad. It’s enough to put them off Savoie wines for life,
of wine styles offered is a positive advantage or a hindrance. Personally, and they will be missing out. Improved controls are needed to raise the
I applaud the variety if the quality levels are high, but only on condition quality at the bottom and middle levels, and better promotion is required
that the style of wine is clearly shown on the label (back or front). so that the good producers have the confidence to demand worthwhile
Unfortunately, this condition is rarely fulfilled in the Jura. prices. Otherwise, Savoie wines will continue to be categorized by most
The law requires only the appellation to be stated on the label in the as, at best, “wines to drink on the ski slopes”.
case of most Jura wines. It is not even compulsory to state the grape
variety; in fact, technically it is not allowed, although the authorities turn a
INAO restricts Jura, Savoie, and Bugey
blind eye. The only styles clearly stated are Crémant du Jura, an appellation The stalled discussions for changing and updating the national system
in its own right, vin de paille, and vin jaune (and the latter is not stated on of appellations has slowed progress for these three little regions. In Wine
AOC Château-Chalon, where the whole world is supposed to understand Report 2007 I mentioned the request by the Bugey area for the INAO to
implicitly that Château-Chalon is always vin jaune). Nothing needs to be restrict the use of the term méthode ancestrale to the sparkling rosés from
written to describe the style of red, rosé, and white wines for the main Bugey Cerdon VDQS. It has not happened. Nor has the upgrading of
appellations Arbois and Côtes du Jura, which make up the majority of the Bugey from VDQS to AOC; nor the simplifying of crus in Savoie; nor the
region’s production. The three black grape varieties – Poulsard, Trousseau, introduction of the tasting test, the agrément at the point of bottling, for
and Pinot Noir – may be bottled singly or as a blend – most made as vins jaunes. All these changes would serve to improve quality and reward
light, early-drinking reds that look more like rosés. An increasing (and the best producers with better prices. Meetings are held and papers
positive) trend is to produce more concentrated, longer-lived reds aged written, but so far nothing has happened.
in oak. Do they state this on the back label? In most cases, dream on.
For whites, it’s worse. Even though there are just two varieties – Grapevine
Chardonnay and Savagnin, sometimes blended – they can be made in an
oxidative style or in a so-called burgundian or floral style, or anywhere in • Jura négociant CGVJ (Compagnie • A collection of old Jura vine
des Grands Vins du Jura) is expanding varieties is being preserved by Caves
between. Add to this an increasing trend to bottle single-terroir wines, or its domaine holdings, mainly to meet Jean Bourdy, a wine producer based in
late-harvest wines, not to mention the occasional use of new barrels or demand for sparkling wines. Sales Arlay, in conjunction with the Société
foudres, and there is confusion. Without explanation from the vigneron, of Crémant du Jura are growing de Viticulture du Jura. Cuttings of rare
faster than any other Jura wines, and varieties retrieved from vineyards all
we have no idea what the wine will taste like. And here is the rub: for too CGVJ is the largest producer, making over the region were planted in May
long the Jura producers have relied on presenting their wines in person to around 1 million bottles annually, of 2006. Bourdy is well known for its
the end user. Surely this can’t continue for ever? With falling local sales, which 200,000 are exported. The large collection of old Jura wines
company, which also makes a range going back to the 18th century, and
they need to expand their horizons. Currently they are targeting Paris, and of other Jura wines, currently owns Jean-François Bourdy believes it is
in the future they might even launch an export initiative. But without 23 ha and buys in from around important to preserve varieties that
clarity on the label, they haven’t much chance of success, in my view. 230 ha, handling around 13 per cent were once widely planted but are
of total Jura production. At the time no longer part of the officially
of writing, negotiations to buy a recommended list of grape varieties.
Savoie still not selling itself nearby domaine had just fallen
Each year the divide grows between the best Savoyard vignerons, whose through, but general manager Paul
Espitalié confirmed the intention to
wines impress more each year, and the deep lake of thin, underripe wines continue investing in the area.
turned out by most of the local négociants and a large number of small
68 WINE REPORT 2008 GLOBAL REPORTS
Vintage Report
Advance report on the latest harvest
2006
Jura – “You had to be quick” was the most common refrain after the
vintage. Deluges of rain were forecast in early October, and there was
a rush to bring in the later varieties. The year had been topsy-turvy. A
record-breaking, extremely hot July that at times blocked the grapes’
development was followed by a very wet August cool enough to stop
ripening. September was warm, with long periods of sunshine that saved
what could have been a disastrous vintage. Rot was a problem for some
and the harvest small overall, with little potential vin de paille made. In
general, decent wines have been made by those producers who acted
quickly and were selective.
Savoie – After localized hail in early summer, a very hot July, and a very
cold, wet August, it was never going to be easy. September was a big
improvement, but rain storms hit in late September and early October. Only
those producers who really took care in the vineyards and made a rigorous
selection at harvest have good wines in the making. Rot of various types
was the biggest problem, and for reds there was a level of underripeness,
too. Quality is uneven, though the best producers are confident of
obtaining reasonable wines, but with quantities lower than average.
Updates on the previous five vintages
Ratings for vin jaune and vin de paille are included in the scores for white wines.
2005
Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 90,White: 92;
Savoie – Red: 88,White: 85
Jura – The year gave a normal and healthy growing season, albeit fairly
dry and hot. Weather remained good throughout the picking period,
which extended into the latter half of October. Acidity was maintained,
and this, combined with good concentration and modest yields, has
produced successful wines from all varieties. The best wines show the
magic combination of good flavours, structure, balance, and length,
making them delightful to drink young and good for the long term, too.
The vintage has a great future.
GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 69
Savoie – Overall a good growing season with a few disease problems for
the usual culprits, Gamay and Pinot Noir. September and October provided
glorious, dry, warm, and sunny weather, good for early and late varieties
alike. It was a year when there should be no excuse for bad wines. Most
whites from Bergeron (Roussanne) and Altesse grapes did not need any
chaptalization and the best show attractive flavours, balance, and length.
Mondeuse reds are the real stars: lovely fruit flavours and ripe tannins
resulting from better vineyard methods in combination with the weather.
2004
Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 80,White: 82;
Savoie – Red: 76,White: 78
Jura – After a wet summer, September was dry and warm. Crop levels
were high and selection was essential. Much Crémant du Jura was made
from Chardonnay. Savagnins were picked at good sugar and acidity levels,
crucial for vin jaune. Trousseau was the most successful black variety.
Savoie – Excess quantity was the biggest problem in this year of variable
weather, but the grapes were generally healthy. Late varieties did best, and
those growers who were selective have produced reasonably concentrated
wines. Some good Roussette de Savoie whites were made from Altesse,
and the finest producers of Mondeuse did well.
2003
Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 86,White: 76;
Savoie – Red: 83,White: 81
Jura – The harvest was very early, and quantities were down 30 per cent.
Dealing with low acidity was a big challenge, especially for wines destined
for vin jaune. Some interesting Savagnin wines have been released, but
most Chardonnays will be too soft by 2008. Reds, for once, are actually
red in colour and taste of ripe fruit!
Savoie – The hot, dry conditions led to an early harvest of supremely
healthy grapes that required careful cellar handling, especially of low
acidity levels. Low quantities mean that few wines are still available.
However, the best producers made deliciously fruity whites and some
structured reds.
70 WINE REPORT 2008 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 71

2002 BEST-VALUE 5 Vin de Savoie Chignin

PRODUCERS Bergeron Cuvée Noé Vieilles
Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 86,White: 90; Vignes 2005 Pascal & Annick
Savoie – Red: 79,White: 77 Jura
Quenard (€11)
1 Daniel Dugois
Jura – Overall, good quality after a fine autumn. Nearly all varieties show 2 Domaine Rolet Père & Fils
both good natural ripeness and high acidity levels, and this bodes well for 3 Domaine Baud Père & Fils BEST BARGAINS
vin jaune. Chardonnays and some Trousseau reds are proving excellent still, 4 Frédéric Lornet Jura
with good weight and balance. Savoie 1 Crémant du Jura Brut Marcel
1 Domaine de l’Idylle Cabelier NV Compagnie des
Savoie – Good late September weather saved the harvest, following a
2 Edmond Jacquin & Fils Grands Vins du Jura (€5)
difficult August. Mondeuse did well in places, with some good results. 3 Pascal & Annick Quenard 2 Arbois-Pupillin Les Terrasses
Whites are mainly drunk. 4 Domaine Jean Vullien & Fils (Savagnin) 2005 Domaine de la
5 Jean Perrier (Gilbert Perrier range) Renardière (€11)
6 Cave de Chautagne 3 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay A la
2001 Percenette 2005 Domaine Pignier
Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 65,White: 73; GREATEST-QUALITY (€11)
WINES 4 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay La
Savoie – Red: 60,White: 68
Jura: 1999 is a wonderful, elegant Bardette 2004 Domaine Labet
Jura – A difficult, fairly small, and variable vintage. AOC Château-Chalon
vintage for vins jaunes. The wines will Père & Fils (€11)
was declassified, but some decent vins jaunes should be released in 2008. Savoie
be at their best in 5–10 years.
Savoie – Medium-quality vintage, especially difficult for reds. 1 Roussette de Savoie Marestel
Chardonnays listed are non-oxidative
in a style to drink or keep. 2004 Domaine Dupasquier (€8.50)
2 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse
1 Arbois Vin Jaune 1999 Domaine
GREATEST WINE Savoie André & Mireille Tissot (€30) d’Arbin 2005 Domaine Louis
PRODUCERS 1 Denis & Didier Berthollier 2 Château-Chalon 1999 Domaine
Magnin (€7.50)
2 Cave du Prieuré 3 Roussette de Savoie 2005
Jura Berthet-Bondet (€29)
3 Jean-Pierre & Jean-François 3 Arbois Chardonnay Les
Domaine de l’Idylle (€5.60)
1 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot 4 Roussette de Savoie Frangy
Quenard Bruyères 2004 Domaine André &
2 Jacques Puffeney Vieilles Vignes Cuvée du Pépé
4 Jean-Pierre & Philippe Grisard Mireille Tissot (€14.50)
3 Domaine Labet Père & Fils 2005 Bruno Lupin (€6.50)
5 Domaine Belluard 4 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Les
4 Domaine Ganevat 5 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse Le
5 Jean Rijckaert Chalasses Vieilles Vignes 2004
NEW UP-AND-COMING Domaine Ganevat (€12) Pied de la Barme 2005 Domaine
6 Domaine Jacques Tissot St-Germain (€7)
Savoie
PRODUCERS 5 Arbois Trousseau Cuvée Les
6 Vin de Savoie Jongieux Gamay
1 Domaine Prieuré Saint-Christophe Berangères 2004 Jacques
Jura 2005 Cave du Prieuré (€5.50)
2 Domaine Dupasquier Puffeney (€11)
1 Jean-Marc Brignot
3 Domaine Louis Magnin Savoie
2 Rémi Treuvey MOST EXCITING OR
4 André & Michel Quenard 1 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse
3 Julien Labet UNUSUAL FINDS
Tradition 2004 Domaine Prieuré
4 Domaine Cybelline
Saint-Christophe (€15) Jura
FASTEST-IMPROVING Savoie
2 Vin de Savoie Chignin 1 Audace Passerillé Rouge 2005
PRODUCERS 1 Gilles Berlioz
Bergeron Vieilles Vignes 2005 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot
2 Domaine St-Germain
Jura Jean-Pierre & Jean-François (€28 per half-bottle) At 8 per cent
3 Bruno Lupin
1 Domaine Pignier Quenard (€8.70)
4 EARL La Gerbelle alcohol, this table wine is not
2 Domaine de la Tournelle 3 Vin de Savoie Chignin allowed vin de paille status, even
3 Domaine de la Renardière Bergeron Saint-Anthelme 2005 though the Poulsard grapes were
4 Domaine Ligier Père & Fils Denis & Didier Berthollier (€9.95) dried on straw for more than six
5 Château d’Arlay 4 Roussette de Savoie 2005 months. One of Stéphane Tissot’s
Domaine Louis Magnin (€13) many follies, this sweetish red has
72 WINE REPORT 2008
structure behind and plenty of
pure red fruit. A dream with vanilla
ice cream.
2 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Les
Vignes de Mon Père 1998
Domaine Ganevat (€20) From very
old vines. The wine was kept in a
barrel for eight years, topped up
(unlike Savagnin for vin jaune).
The result is a honeyed, rich, dry
wine with stunning intensity of
crystallized fruits and no hint of
oxidation.
3 Arbois L’Uva Arbosiana 2005
Domaine de la Tournelle (€5.50)
L’Uva Arbosiana is the old name
for Poulsard. From low-yielding
vines, this was made without SO2 ,
using carbonic maceration and
retaining CO2 to preserve
freshness. It is a delicious, light,
juicy red, with a touch of tannin.
4 Château-Chalon 1986 Henri
Maire (€35) This huge négociant
and domaine owner has splendid
cellars for its vins jaunes and
Château-Chalons that stay in
barrel for at least 10 years.
Currently still available, this vintage
Château-Chalon smells of dried
figs and has a creamy, curry-spiced
palate. Sip with mature Comté
cheese and walnuts.
5 Arbois Cuvée Marc 2005
Jean-Marc Brignot (€15) This new
producer bottles his wines without
SO2 . He works hard in the
vineyard to produce very
concentrated wines, reflected in
the dark colour of this red from
95 per cent of the pale Poulsard
grape and 5 per cent Trousseau. It
has great presence and intensity.
6 Arbois Cuvée du 70ème
Anniversaire Savagnin 2000
Domaine Rolet Père & Fils (€14)
To celebrate the 70th anniversary
of Arbois becoming an AOC, Rolet
released two superb cuvées in
GLOBAL REPORTS
2006: a good 2003 Trousseau and
this traditional Savagnin. Aged as a
vin jaune but for less time, it has
a good balance of intense jaune
character and acidity.
Savoie
1 Vin de Pays d’Allobrogie
Schiste 2005 Domaine des
Ardoisières (€13) From the south-
facing organic vineyard that Michel
Grisard created near Albertville
(see Wine Report 2005) comes
this deliciously dry, herbal, and
stony blend full of lemon and floral
flavours. The basic Savoie white
Jacquère grape is blended with
10 per cent Pinot Gris and 10 per
cent Roussanne fermented and
aged in oak.
2 Vin de Savoie Compostelle
Mondeuse 2004 Cave du Prieuré
(€12) From vines situated on
one of the pilgrims’ routes
from Geneva to Santiago de
Compostelle, the Barlet brothers
matured this Mondeuse in Côte
Rôtie barrels. The result is a
creamy and ripe Mondeuse that
owes more to the New World than
most Savoie reds.
3 Vin de Savoie St-Jeoire Prieuré
2005 EARL La Gerbelle (€3.50)
Brothers André and Guy Quenard
are converting their Chignin estate
to organic viticulture. Quality is on
the up, as proved by this deliciously
fresh, dry white Jacquère from a
tiny cru at a bargain price.
4 Vin de Savoie Chautagne
Autremont 2004 Jacques Maillet
(€10) Monsieur Maillet is a
member of the Chautagne
cooperative but chooses to market
his wine himself. From old vines
farmed biodynamically, this direct,
fruity wine is a blend of 40 per
cent Gamay, 40 per cent Pinot
Noir, and 20 per cent Mondeuse.