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INVENTORY OFJIGHARDWARE Wood acrewa Oval(below, lefL)and flat head (below, cenLer) are ueedfor counLereinktnq; roundhead(below, rtqht) can be removedeaerly. Typtcally availablefrom'l Lo 6 incheelonq;common head typee include elotted, Fhilipe, and equare Waehera Uaedt.o helpdiaLributeload whenueinqnuta and bolte;lock (cenLer)and epltL(rt4hL)Lypee deai7ned to keepnu1, from looaentnq;avatlable tn a vanety of aizeo



Toggle clampe Qutck-acLin4

clampe that are faaLened to jiqa Lo hold etock in place

iifir:'@W& AHH

faetentn4 of wood; etandard hexnut 1eneral (above, left) provideaeaeyacceeafor t urnrn4; wtngnuL (above, cent,er)ta uaed wheredioaeeembly and reaeeembly ie expecLed; T-nut (above,riqhL) te ueed ae a knockdown faeLener or rn ertuaLions where bolLie no| acceeetble after aeeembly; avatlable tn a varieLy of aizee

Threadedinaert Knockdown faatener usedwith acrewg or bolt;o Lojoin compa-

applicat tone

Fl FI Fl trI ll Il ll
| I

v v '

rn nn v | v ) ,



and eaeilymachrned, auchaa_ plaeLice acryltc, polycarbonaLe, phenoliceheel,, and polyeLhylene (HDFE) are often ueed ae eee-throu7h and 4uarde, Lemplateo, tneertplaLee for rouLerLablee

Knockdown hardware iLem allowtnqjt7 Lo be taken aparL and reaesembled wiLhouLeLripptng ecrew Lhreade; threaded dowel te ineert ed in one part of ji4 perpendtcular to bolL; bolLs ranqe between 1and 3 inchee

Common naile Fl Feature qroovedll ahankafor ll otrenqthand ll h o l d i n 7 p o w e rl :l

lenathtvpicallv ll
J r t v |


b e L w e e n l a n dl l

6 inchee


[J " ll V

tl II

6olta Plaetic knobsand handlee jiqe durin4operaFor conLrolltnq ttona;offer comfortable grtppin4 eurface;nylonwaaherareducevibration
Ueed wiLh nuLe for faeLenin7 wood; carria7e bolt (near rtght) feaLurce oquare necl Lo keep bolr from roLaLtng, hanger bolt (far ri7ht) featuree machine fhreade on one end and wood 1crew thread' on Lhe o1;her;eizeo typtcally ranqe '/, from 1 Lo 6 tnchea rn lenqLh and I to /, inch in diameLer


Pneumatic clamp Ueee air
nrpaat trp f ^

Cam clamp Ueedto aecure workpiece injiq; Lurn handle Lo increage clampinq Preaaure

t* >

Miter bar '/," Ftl,eetandard x'1" miter 4auqeelol,; aerveo a6 foundaLton for a number of ueefuljtge tncludtnq a Lable
eaw croaacul;jig, a miter jtg, and a feaLherPOara

oecure workpteceer;ojiqe: clampinqpreaeure adju.,t able from 20 to 160 pounde: varieLy of clampinq arme available for a ran7e of applrcatlonz

SOURCE FS OR J I GH A R D W A R E Many hardwar se t o r ea s n dw o o d w o r nk gi supplh y o u s eo sf f e r s p e c i a l i zh ea dr d w a r e f o rs h o p - m a d e sa n df i x t u r e s l t. i s a lig good idea to have a s u p p lo yf1 i g hardware i n a v a r i e to yf s i z e o s n h a n di n y o u rs h o p , since spendin to g om u c h t f i t sp u r t i m em a k i n a g j i g d e f e a tp sa r o pose . h ei t e m s p r o v i da eb a s i c T above jig hardware: listof essential formore specific a p p l i c a t i oc nh se , co k u tb u s i n e a ss nd trade directories aswellasmanufacturers and s u p p l i eo r fsi n d u s t r i p ar l oducts.






THE ART OF WOODWORKING was produced by ST. REMYPRESS PUBLISHER KennethWinchester PRES/DENT PierreL6veill6 PierreHome-Douglas FrancineLemieux Marc Cassini(Text) HeatherMills (Research) Art Directors Normand Boudreault,Luc Germain, Laberge Solange H6ldneDion, Designers Lina Desrochers, Doiron, Michel Gigudre Jean-Guy Research Editor Jim McRae PictureEditor ChristopherJackson Rob Lutes Writers Andrew Jones, Research Assistant BryanQuinn RolandBergerat, Contr ibuting lllu strators GillesBeauchemin, Bourgeois, MichelBlais, Jean-Pierre RonaldDurepos,RobertPaquet, IamesTh6rien Administrator NatalieWatanabe Production Manager MichelleTurbide System Coordinator ]ean-LucRoy Photographers RobertChartiet ChristianLevesque Administ rativeAssistant Dominique Gagn6 Proofreader Iudith Yelon Indexer ChristineM. Jacobs Series Editor Series Art Director SeniorEditors Time-Life Booksis a division of Time Life Inc., a wholly ownedsubsidiaryof THE TIME INC. BOOK COMPANY TIMELIFEINC. President and CEO Editor-in-chief JohnM. Fahey JohnL. Papanek

THECONSUITANTS cabinetmaker, and JonArno is a consultant, freelance writer who livesin Troy,Michigan. He seminars on wood identification alsoconducts and earlyAmericanfurniture design. writer and editor. I(am Ghaffari is a freelance in RhodeIsland He hashis own business designingand building one-of-a-kindand limited production furniture. Kam'sbackground in furnialsoincludesworking professionally ture reproductionand fine carpentryand studyingwith furniture patriarchsWendell FredBaier. Castleof the U.S.and England's cabinetGilesMiller-Mead taught advanced making at Montreal technicalschoolsfor more A nativeofNew Zealand,he has than ten years. worked asa restorerof antiquefurniture. fosephTruini is SeniorEditor of Hoze Mechanixmagazine. A former Shopand Tools he hasworked as Editor of PopularMechanics, home improvementcontraca cabinetmaker, / tor, and carpenter.

jigs and fixtures Shop-made p. cm.-(The Art of Woodworking) Includesindex. (trade) ISBN0-8094-9508-2 l. Jigsand fixtures. jigs and fixtures. I. Title: Shop-made

IL Series Tll l87.ss4 1993 684'.083-dc20

93-34t03 CIP

President Directorof Marketing Vice-President, ExecutiveEditor Executive Art Director Editor Consulting Production Manager JohnD. HaIl NancyK. fones RobertaConlan EllenRobling lohn R. Sullivan MarleneZack

For information about any Time-Life book, please or write: call l-800-621-7026, Information Reader Time-Life CustomerService P.O. BoxC-32068 Richmond,Virginia 23261-2068 @ 1994 Time-LifeBooksInc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproducedin any form or by any electronicor mechanical and means,including information storage without prior retrievaldevices or systems, written permissionfrom the publisher,except may be quoted for reviews. that briefpassages First printing. Printed in U.S.A. in Canada. Publishedsimultaneously TIME-LIFE is a trademarkof Time Warner Inc. U.S.A. R 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1


t 2 ROUTING AND t6 20 2T 22 23 24 25 26 31 34
40 4l 42 43 46 47 SHAPING JIGS Dadoingjigs Circle-cuttingjigs Routerjointing jig Hinge mortising jig jig Corner-rounding jig Panel-raising Adjustablerouting guide Joint-makingjigs jigs Shaper Vacuumjigs Sizingboard for crosscuts Miter and crosscut guide Ripping jigs TWocircle-cuttingjigs jig Wedge-making Two jigs for anglecuts on the band saw jigs Thper A bladeheight gauge Crosscut and miter jigs Raised paneljig Board-straighteningjig Auxiliary fences and tables jig Cove-cutting TWotenoningjigs

68 7l 72 73 75 77 78 81 86 89 90 94 96 98 100 IO2 105 106 II2 113 II4 II7 118 120 T22 125 I28 130

TURNING IIGS jigs TWocentering jig Gouge-sharpening jigs Spindle-turning |ig for fluting columns figs for sandingand checkirg depth GLUING AND CLAMPING JIGS jigs Edge-gluing jigs Frame-clamping jigs Carcase-clamping Workbenchclampingjigs SANDING IIGS |igs for face-and edge-sanding Auxiliary sandingtables jigs Hand-sanding TOOL EXTENSIONSAND TABTES Plateioiner stand Tables for power tools Viseextension stand Adjustable roller stand STORAGEDEVICES Storingsaws and blades Mobile clamprack Lumber storage racks SHOPAIDS Safetv devices Sawhorses Workshophelpers


48 49 50 52 53 54 56 57 60 62 63 64

DRIIIING JIGS Center-drillingjig Tilting tablejig fig for drilling equally spaced holes 65 V-block jig 66 Pockethole jig 67 Boring deepholes





R. J.De Cristoforoon

it istaken Once fromitsboxor crate I read the J lookat anewtoolasabeginning. I owner's manual to learnwhatthemanufacturel strggests thetool cando.ThenI "There stand backandthink, mustbemoreto it thanthis." Inevitably, bysome strange process thought I cantexplain, there appears amental picttueof ajig, sometimes simple enough to testimmediateh othertimeselaborate enough to require a session atwhatat onetimewasa drawing now,I design board; onmycomputer. Thenewjigmight enablethetoolto dosomethingits desigrernever envisioned or it mightincrease accuracywith minimumfuss, or it couldadda safety factorto a routineoperation. ln anycase, it has to becustom-made since it is rarely available commerciallv. I'vedesigred dozeni ofjigsfor power andhandtools. Still,for meit'snotanobsession:Practicality is essential andshop testing mustprove thejig'sworth.Some folla jigs think that areonlyfor amateurs. If so,therearemanyprofessionals workingin amateurish ways! to beused. Those thatI design arenot made for thesake of a mag|igsaremeant azine story or abookandthenstored or discarded. ln a sense, I conceive aproject that helps meexploit amachine, or assists mein working moreaccurately andsafely, and thenI share it with otherwoodworkers. If I'veproven thatajig will beuseful to just onereader thenit has value for me. jigsthatI have I m fondof themaster made for thedrill press andbandsaw, and especially theunit for thetablesaw in thephotoat left.Itsbasic shown component is a generous slidingtable with removable inserts soit canfunctionwith a dadoing toolas wellasasawblade. Itsattachments include adjusable guides for accurate crosscutting andmiteringandamountable unit-a jig in itself-thatallovrs cuts liketenons andslots in theendof narrowstock. Thedevice includes a number of essential but jigsandadds usually separate theadvantages of a slidingtable to each of them. There's no doubtthatjigscanhelpanywoodworker, but theymustbemade carejob. frrlly.These aresituations it pap to take10minutes where to do a five-minute Consider thatthejigwillbe alifetime toolandyodllagree thatmaking it rightisthe go. onlywayto

R. J. De Cristoforo, author of numerous boolcs on woodworking and othersub jeds,liva in LosAltos Hills, Californin


Ted Fullerandhis

bodypanels. \r/ earsago,I workedin an autobody shop,wherewe hand-formed I Oftenweneeded panels-one for each two matching side-but weneverpro"You ducedexact mirror images. Subtle differences wereeasily excused: can'tsee both sides at thesame time."it wassaid. pieces In cabinetmaking, hor.vever, matching mustbeexact duplicates. Youusually masters cansee themat thesame time.Althoughsome canaccomplish thisfreehand, jigs. most of us must rely on carefully constructed I wasluredto woodworking in grade put meto work school whentheshopteacher play. I learned on thepropsfor a Christmas early thatthetimespent on thejig or templatemeanttime saved gained. and consistency Thereareplentyof jigs and fixtures'on the marketbut, like baseball gloves, only your own hasjust the right fit. Whenyou makeajig yourself, it is designed for a specific andsized to matchyour project. Best application of all,you don'thave to change the projectto fit the store-bought fixture.It's alsoless expensive. jig, and Making arched-top raised paneldoorsis one example. A manufactured pre-cuttemplates you to do thejob costseveral that enable hundreddollars. Forthe piece custom I amworkingon in thephotograph I built a simple template out of plyjig is adjustable woodto create the contourfor thearched top rail.Thisparticular for jig anda re-draft two widthsof doors. Wideror narrower doorswill require another ofthe curve. With the multitudeof top-bearing routerbits on the market,exact contours are quickandeasy to duplicate. Simplyroughout thepiece to shape, clampon thetemplate, Anotherbenefit androut to thefinished shape. of thisform of duplication is thatit does not leave thetool mark thatabandsaw wouldandtherefore reduces sanding considerably. Thenextstepis to run thepieces througha matched setof rail and stilecuttersto rout the profile on the sticks and makethe copecuts.It's a goodidea information to markthedimensions, bit selection, andset-up on thejig sorecalculationis not recuired. I think oneolthe mostintriguingthingsaboutwoodworking isthatthereis always some riggingthatwill makethework easier, faster, andbetter. Theonlyreallimitation is your own imagination.

TedFuller is theproductmanager at Delta (Canada) International Machinery/PorterCable in Guelph, Ontario.He is currently workingin newproductdevelopment and marketing for

g tootsqn woodw orkin d' r"n2::

: #;":fri.


BruceBeeken and Ieff Parsons discuss

p u.ry*oodworker jigsregularly. uses gauges, Marking combination squares, the I-l rip fence on a table saw, androuter bitswithball-bearing pilotsare alljigsthat for granted. are taken Andwhohasn't, atone timeor another, made asimple thingajob done? majigon thespurof themoment to helpgeta certain In ourshop, wedesign most of thefurniture wemake. In developing a newpiece, weconsider theesthetic andthebuilding process atthesame time.Our chairs, for parts example, have thatdorit come straight frommachine tables because welikethem justso. to have a certain stance to support theperson sitting on them jigsareused Some of our morecomplex in chair making. These sorts of jigsare planned fromtheoutset, tailoring theprocess to thedesign. Wedevelop themon a full-scale drawing asweworkoutourconcept piece. of thefurniture A clear underjobless standing of thesteps andtheirsequence notonlymakes thewhole intimidating but oftensuggests ways to simplify theprocedure andrefine thepiece itself. Sometimes ajig isassimple asa wedge to jackup a partattheproper We angle. have also foundthatjigscanserve morethanonepurpose, traveling with apartfrom machine to machine. Thehome-made device in thephoto, shown for example, isused forbothforming legs chair ontheshaper andcutting mortises in themonthemortiser. Westartby bandsawing blanks to approximate size. Theyarethenfastened to the jig-in pairs, since thejig has twoedges. Weshape theinside faces of thelegs. Then, by changing shaper knives, pegs shifting thedowel in thejig, andrepositioning the jig to shape legs, wecanuse thesame thefeet. Once alltheparts have formed, been wereturnthepegs to theface-shaping position andboltthejig to ourmortiser's table. Thejig thenholds in theproper position thelegs asthemortises arecut. There are times that,with a littleextra effort, ajig can bemade to serve a general jig forthetable purpose: for instance, ahinged taper saw planer, or thickness or arouter boomfor cutting arcs. Theuse ofjigsisinseparable fromourunderstanding of howto make thefurniture justonce, wedesign. Even if apiece isto bemade it islikely thatwewill develop and use ajig somewhere along theline.When producing weare abatch of several hundred jigsarecritical chairs, in almost every move wemake. Whether simple or complex, they serve asthelinkbetween drawing andtool,ensuring precise consistent, results.

BruceBeeken andJeffParsons aregraduates of Boston University's Program in Artisanry.Theybuildfinefurniture at theirshop at Shelburne Farms, Shelburne, Vermont.

'*sout' .$

in the20th early Q in.. itsinvention therouter has become one tJ Centurv. portable power of themostpopular reason. Few tools tools-andwithgood itsspeed, andvercanmatch accura6/> woodor cutting satilityfor shaping joints. Butjigsarealmost a necessity; canbeused freealthough therouter hand,mostcutsrequire a guide-particularly repeat cuts. proin thischapter Thejigsfeatured quickand videvarious ways of obtaining precise results fromyourrouter. Some, jigsshown beginning likethedadoing 16,reduce thesetup timefor on page procedures. likethelap simple Others, joint jig on page 27,allow thetoolto produce multiple copies of thesame joint in a fewminutes. new A relatively vacuumwoodworking development, (page powered accessories 34)elimineed for clamps nate the conventional patterns when routing using atemplate. pumpis alsouseful for Thevacuum featherboards to a router table. securing jigsare andinexpensive All of these easy to build. Theroutertlarger cousin, theshaper, better canperformmanyoperations tool,but it isgenerally thanthesmaller regarded asoneof themost dangerous woodshop. A shoptools in thetypical (page made featherboard 32)andguards jj) will make (page it a safer tool.
Dado-routin7 jig (pa6e 17) Faatenedto router baae plate to cut equallyopaced dadoea

Auxiliary rout'er aub-baae (page 21) )ff-oquare base eecured to router baoe plate to enabletool to makecuta wider than bit diameter Freeatanding ahaper suard (pa6e 33) K Trian4ular cutter \ auard with viewhole for freehand ehaping

_---: shaperguard (page55) quardprotectaueerdurin4 fence' L-ehaped jig, a table-mounted Aidedbya simple joint. router cuts a perfect box



5liding dovetail jig (paqe 26) Uaedwith router to cut both parta of alidin7 dovetail joint; holda router horizontallyand eliminatea need for router table

Corner halFlap joint jiq (page 27) Uaedfor routin7 corner half-lapjointa

Hinge-mottiaing jig (pase 22) Clampedto edqe of workpiece to rout hinqemorLiaea Movable-jaw moftiain7 ji6 Qa6e 29) jawo enaure Adjuatable that cut ia centered on the edqe of atock ?anel-raising jig (pase 24) Uaed with router to bevelpanel edqea;holda router in horizontal poaition, eupportinq panel on a broad table

Adjuetable mofiiaing jig (pase 28) Holda workpiece ed4e-up for cuttina morLiaee


-\\ Extended ehaper featherboard (paqe 32) Clampedto ohaper fence Lo aupporb workpiecee durin4 fence-7uided cuta and protect uoer from cutter

Adjuatable airaleautting jig (page 2O) Ueedwith router to cut circlea. )crew ia fixed to center of circle; radiua determined by diatance between screwand bit

to router baeeplate to 4uide tool around circular cuLs Adjuetable routin4 guide (page 25) Adjuatable edqe quidee ueed with router to cut recta nquIar qroovea;tem platea can be added to rout patterne

Shaper airale-autting jig (pase 31) jiq quideacircular V-ehaped atock duringahapin4operationa

Quiak-aetup dadoing jig (page 18) Conaiataof two L-ehapededge4uideefor routin7 dadoea:quideereatfluah aqainet oppoaite ardeaof router baee plate

Adjuatable dadoing jig

for dado cuta

(pase 19) Secures workpieceo of varyinq widtha ,

T-equarejig (paqe 16) Clampedto workpiece, jiq qurdearouter through dado cute



Edqe qutde

theiig 1 Building and I Torout dadoes thatarestraight usea to theedges of your stock, square T . s n r r airi e pl i k e t h eo n es h o w a nb o v e .
" I'b "''"

hl y w o o d s,i z Make t h e j i g f r o m3 / q - i n cp y o uw i l l so s u i tt h e s t o c k i n gt h e p i e c e t a n d t h e d i a m e t eo r f y o u rr o u t be using

or haco nl:tp Thp cd'sc srridp shnrrld

r) Routing a dado in thefence aligning thedado L Clamp thejigto theworkpiece, m a k i ntg h ec u t ,p r e stsh e w i t ht h eo u t l i n o e nt h es t o c kW . hen (above). guide plate Continue f irmly against theedge router base stopping therouter. distance into thefence before thecuta short

t inchew s i d ea n d l o n g etrh a n b ea b o u 4 also 's idth: t h efe n c e . t h ew o r k p i e c ew on 4 inches wide, should extend about
orthor side nf thp orrido hv ehnrri thp

llllill '[l il dliltt ,lli ,lii ]}1 iittr il lll ilil,l|l Niifi lxl lXl
( T-equare roulinq guide A draflingToquare can your b e u e e dt o g u i d e rouf,er throughdado culs. To cuslomize t h e j t q f o r y o u rt o o l , to clam?Lhe7quare buLLinq a ocra?board, iLecroooViece aqainel the board edqe. KideIhe rouLer baoeplabe alonq the arm of the oquare, into the board and cuLLing Touse LhecroseViece. Lrimminq iI Lo Nhe workpiece lhe jiq, clamV wilh the cuf,edgeof NhecroooViece the markon Lhestrock. KouN wilh Xhecu|Ninq aliqned butrted againeN Ihe arm. Nhebaeeplatre dado,keepinq

plateA . ssemble wrdth of therouter base f e n c e t o t h ee d g e b y a t t a c h i n t g h e t h e1 i g guide sk c r e w sU . s ea w i t hc o u n t e r s u n pieces to make certain the two try square p e r p e n d r c u l a r T hen t o e a c h o t h e r . are t o a w o r k s u r f a c e a n d ,w i t h c l a m pt h e l i g g u ide, p l a t e a g a i n s t t h e e d g e the base e a c h s i d e o f t h e r o u ta s h o r td a d oo n your used fencewith two mostcommonly inch These dadoes bits-often r/zand3/q w i l lm i n i m i z t ee a r o uw t hen i n t h ef e n c e a n d h e l pa l i g n t h el t g t h el r g r su s e d w i t ht h e c u t y o uw i s ht o m a k e .

t;t.r f

) a '



thejig 1 Assembling I Thejig shown is ideal forcutting at right equally spaced dadoes witha router. Dimensions depend on thesize of theworkpiece andthespacing between the plywood dadoes. Begin bycutting a piece of lo-inch forthe base, making it a fewinches wider thanthe plate diameter of your router's base anda fewinches longer thanthespacing between thedadoes. Setthe your base ona work surface andplace router near one end.Mark thescrew holes in therouter base olaie on thebase; also mark a spot directly below thetool's collet.Bore holes for the screws andcut a hole at the collet mark large enough fortherouter bit.Remove the sub-bas fe r o mt h et o o l ,s c r e w t h ej i g b a s e tothe plate, router base andinstall a straight bitthesame youwish width asthedadoes to rout. Next, cuta spacerto fit snugly in thedadoes, making it slightly longer than thewidth of theworkpiece. Screw thespacer to the bottom of thejig, making thedistance between youwant it andthe bii equal to thespace between dadoes. vour

r) Cutting thedadoes L Clamovour stock to a work surface and setthejig ontheworkpiece withthespacerflush agarnst one endandtherouter bit a t o n ee d g eH . old t h er o u t efri r m l y and feedit across thesurface to rout thefirst keeping dado, thespacer flush against the workpiece. Turn off therouter andinsert thespacer in thedado, repositioning the clamps asnecessary. Rout thenext dado, sliding thespacer in thefirst dado. Continue(lefluntilallthe dadoes have been cut. (Tovary the location of your firstdado, guide routit witha T-square like theone shown on page 16,rather than withthe jig.) spacer




thejig 1 Assembling I Thejig shown it easy at leftmakes to rout dadoes withminimal tearout. The device consists of fourstrios of %-inch plywood attached to formtwoLs.Ripall thepieces of thejig about 4 inches wide. guides Cuttheedge a fewinches longer t o m a k eT . he t h a nt h ec u t y o ui n t e n d to overlap cleats should be long enough guide theadjacent edge byseveral inches when thejig is setup.Fasten theedge guides to thecleats, making certain the pieces use fourcountersunk aresquare; screws foreach connection.

r) Routing a dado L Set upthejig byclamping thestock io a work surface and against theworkpiece at thebeginning and butting thecleats guides, setyour router between theedge endof thecut.Then outline. Slide theguides together aligning thebitover thedado plate. side o f t h er o u t eb r ase u n t i lt h e yb u t ta g a i n s eta c h S e c u rte h ej i g b yc l a m p i ntg h e L st o e a c h othea r n dt o t h e w i t ht h et o o lb e t w e e n w o r k p i e cT eu . rn o n t h e r o u t ea r nd,

guides, plunge at thestart theedge thebit into thecleat of the across theworkpiece cutto formanentry dado. Guide therouter (above), extending thecut completely through thestock and into thesecond cleat. This willminimize tearout asthebitexits theworkpiece, lf youneed to routseveral dadoes of thesame size, leave thejig clamped together andalign theentry dado withthedado outline marked onthestock.




thejig 1 Building j i g I The shown a t r i g h ti s i d e afl o r panels. in wide Size the routing dadoes pieces theedge sothedistance between guides router's equals thediameter of your p l a t e . g u i d e s b el o n g base The hould panel enough to accommodate thewidest guides, youplan Cutthefouredge to rout. fs rom %-inch t h et w oe n d sa , n ds p a c e r plywood s inches m; a k e a l l t h ep i e c e4 wide. Sandwich theendpieces between guides At andscrew them together. the attach spacers to oneendof theframe, t h et o pa n db o t t o m o f t h ee n dp i e c e . allfasteners. CuttheclampCountersink stock; make ingblock from%-inch-thick i t a b o u3 t i n c h ew s ide a n dl o n g e tr han theendpieces. To install thepress screw, f o rt h et h r e a dts h r o u gth he bore a hole (right, withthespacers below). endpiece Remove head fromthepress theswivel it to themiddle of the screw andfasten clamping block. Attach thethreaded sectionto theswivel head andscrew thecollarto theendoiece. Use therouter to cut short reference dadoes in theother end piece block. andtheclamping

r-) Cutting a dado Z- StlOe theworkpiece between theedge guides, with aligning themarked outline thereference dadoes. Secure theoanel in positio ni t h w t h ec l a m p i n b g l o c kC . lamp t h ej i g t o a w o r k surface W . i t ht h e b i t clear of thestock, turnontherouter and start thecut at thereference dado in the , a k i nc e n dp i e c em ge r t a itn h er o u t eirs guides. beiween theedge Feed the bit plate into theworkpiece, keeping thebase (left). flatontheslock Tominimize tearout, waituntil thebitenters thereference dado i n t h ec l a m p i nb gl o c k b e f o rr ea i s i ntg he router clear of thestock.


two hardwood dowels and Comprising jig allows a center block,thisadjustable your routerto cut circles of virtually The jig is assembled any diameter. by slippingthedowels into theaccessory plate,fixing the holes in the routerbase dowels to theblock, and attaching the block to thecenter of thecircle marked on theworkpiece. With woodcleats holding therouter thestock to a worksurface, bit is alignedwith the end of the circle's marked radiusand thescrews that plate are clampthedowels to the base tightened. Thecirclecan thenberouted.

Making thejig and routing a circle Tocut larger circles thanmost commercial jig shown guides allow, use thecompass the device fromr/rinch at right.Make hardboard, sizing it to suityourrouter. becircuTherouter endof thejig should larandabout thesize of your tool's base plate. wide Make thearmat least 2 inches thantheradius of thecircle andlonger youwillbecutting. Bore a hole in thecenendforthe router bit. terof the rounded router, remove To mount thejig onyour thesub-base andcenter the bit over the holes clearance hole. Mark thescrew on thejig,bore andcountersink them, then Draw a line screw thejig to the router. of thejig armandmark downthe center on it, measuring theradius of thecircle at fromtheedge of thebit.Drill a hole jig center mark and screw the to the the workoiece. Secure thestock to thework surface withcleats. Plunge thebit into thestock androut thecircle in a clockwise direction.



jjit lllr lll} lllt illlrufill lll1 llljlll llllllll llllillltlll lllt llllilri
An auxiliary oubbaoelor widecuts To makea cut,Nhat is wider than a particular rouler bif, youwould normally makeone quide ohiftyoured6e and Vaee,

Kemove lhe router's B-inchequare. lhe screw holee and eub-base Andbore holefor the bit trhrouah Lhe clearance so Ihe Loolwillbe cen' auxiliary eub-base inchof woodfrom oneedqeof the Leredon the jiq. Next,cut 1/rc inchfrom an adlacenN edqe, andl/+inchfrom a lhird eub-baee,1/s you removed Markthe amounlo on eachside.ecrewthe 1iq edqe. the to trherouNer and make a ?ae6withNhe uncul endfluehaqaineL paoo, wideninqNhe KotaLe Nheeub-baee and makea second 4uide. qroove inch,dependinq by 1/o,1/a. or 1/+ on whichoideyou uee.

Jointing wide stock Tosurface boards thataretoocumberacross thejointer, usea some to move router witha perfectly square edge along guide. This works best using technique a top-piloted straight bit withal/z-inch guide shank. Position theedge atop the withtheedge board to bejointed of the protruding board fromtheguide's edge b y a b o u% t oi n c h C . lamp both tothe guide work M t h ee d g e surface . ake longer than theworkpiece to prevent the withtherouter; clamps frominterfering j a wt o place a shim u n d etrh ec l a m p keep theguide from wobbling. With the router flatontheguide, adjust thebit height soit willcuttheentire edge of (inset). Feed therouter from the board the oneendof theboard to theother; p i l ow t i l lr i d e a st h e a l o nt gh eg u i d e flush(above). cutter trimstheworkpiece

theiig 1 Building I A j i g l i k et h eo n es h o w n a t l e f tw i l l yourrouter allow to cut hinge mortises quickly andaccurately. Tomake thecuts, youwillneed your to equip router witha guide. straight bit anda template Build plyfroma piece thetemplate of %-inch wood. Size it wide enough to support the router. Outline thehinge leaf onthetemplate; remember to compensate forthe guide template andthethickness of the fence, which is also made from7+-inch plywood. Cutoutthetemplate, thenattach thefence withcountersunk screws.

r') Routing hinges 4 Secure theworkpiece edge-up in a vise. Mark thehinge outline onthestock andclamp thetemplate in position, aligni n gt h ec u t o uw t i t ht h eo u t l i n e o nt h e edge andbutting thefence against the inner face of theworkpiece. Make the cuI (right) by moving the router in small clockwise circles, thenremove thejig andsouare thecorners witha chisel.


Constructing thejig I Forcurving the corners of a workpiece, y o uc a n u s et h e s i m p l e corner-rounding at right. T h ej i g c o n s i s to sf a 1 i gs h o w n plywood b a s ea n d t w o l i p st h a t a l i g nt h e C .ut edges o f t h e j i g a n dt h e w o r k p i e c e plywood. from7a-inch Formost the base j o b s ,a b a s e w i d ea n d 1 6 a b o u t1 0 i n c h e s D the inches l o n gw i l l b e a d e q u a t e .raw of c u r v ey o u w i s ht o r o u t o n o n e c o r n e r a n dc u t i t w i t ha b a n ds a wo r a thebase saw;sandthe edgesmooth. Cutthe saber lipsfromsolidstockr/zinchthickand 1% wide, thepieces inches t h e n n a i lo r s c r e w 3 to 4 inches to the basel ,e a v i n g about corner. between eachlip and the rounded T h et o p e d g e o f t h e l i p ss h o u l d b ef l u s h with the top surface of the base. 'l VIEW OF UNDERSIDE

r) Rounding a cornel with I Set vour stock on a work surface t h ec o r n etr o b er o u n d ee dx t e n d i n og ff thetable byseveral inches. Place thejig o n t o po f t h ew o r k p i e c se ot h el i p sa r e against of thestock. butted the edges to Use clamps to secure thetwopieces thework surface. Tomake therouter cut easier, use a handsaw to cutaway thebulk of thewaste. Then, using a top-piloted router, flush-cutting bit in your start clear o f t h ec o r n ea r n de a s e t h eb i t i n t ot h e stock until t h ep i l o t contacts h ee d g e . Pull therouter around thecorner, moving against bit rotation andpressing thepilot flush against of the1ig throughtheedge (/eff). outtheoperation

jig the 1 Building I Featuring a fence and tilting table, the jigshown you panat leftenables to raise elsusing without a router mounting thetool j i g i sc l a m p ei d i n a t a b l eT . he na b e n c h sf t h ej i gf r o m v i s eC . u ta l lt h ep i e c eo plywood; l-inch thedimensions suggested in theillustration willwork well witha typical workbench. Start assembling thejig byscrewing thebrackets to theunderside of thetable at oneend, thencutadjustment slots through thearms. Secure the topends of thearms to thebrackets and thebottom ends to thefence hanger using bolts, washers, andwing nuts. Attach the positable tothefence witha piano hinge tioned about 6 inches below thetopof the fence. Toprepare thefence foryour router, justabove bore a hole thetable level to accommodate thelargest %-inch vertical panel-raising bitorstraight bityou willbe using. Screw theguard to thefence above thehole. Finally, cuta notch in thebottom endof thefence to clear theworkbench's vise screw. lnstall thebit in therouter and screw thetool to thejigfence sothebit fromthehole. orotrudes

NoLch for vrse


Adjuotment alot

r) Raising a panel L Secure the1ig fence in thevise with thetable at a comfortable height. Adjust thebitfora shallow cut,turnontherouter, andmake a testcut in a scrao oiece, To adjust thebevel angle, turnoffthetool, loosen thewing nuts securing thearms to ,n d t h ef e n c ea t i l tt h et a b l e u po r d o w n . Raise theends of thepanel before routing thesides; thiswillreduce tearout. Feed the panel face-up, across thetable keeping your f ingers wellclear of thebit.Test-f it thepanel andincrease thecutting depth (right). pass slightly to make a second Continue until fitsin thegrooves. thepanel



the iig 1 Building forroutat leftis ideal I The lig shown pattern; it can in a rectangular inggrooves for curved bef itted withtemplates also from1-by-2 stock Saw theguides cuts. andwide a groove %inch deep androut one. Cuta edge of each along theinside tenon at oneendof each two-shouldered guide a pilot andbore to fit in thegrooves fora of each tenon hole into themiddle bolt. Screw the hanger %-inch-diameter prothread in place, leaving enough bolts theadjacent truding to feedit through guide witha washer andwingnut. edge through rout %-inch-wide mortises Finally, from about 3%inches theguides; start a n dm a k e the t h ee n dw i t ht h et e n o n them 4 inches long, separating mortises Assemble the withabout %inch of wood. jig byslipping through thetenons andbolts andmortises of theadjacent thegrooves guide andnuts. thewashers andinstalling make temolates likethose Forcurves. shown in theillustration.


r) Routing thegroove to theworkpiece.) to secure thetemplates double-sided tape surface. (Use stock andlayit ona work Z- Outline thepattern onyour to the nuts andclamp thejig andworkpiece thewing it onthestock sothe Tighten Loosen thewing nuts ofthejigandposition plunging make thecut in a thestock, After thebit into guides flatonthework- table. Place therouter frame theoutline. edge plate flush the keeping thebase against direction, piece Buttoneof clockwise edge oftheoutline. thebitwithone andalign guide plate. Forrepeat cuts,simply ortemplate at all times. guides Repeat on edge base flushagainst therouter theedge (abovd. pattern workpiece androutthe clamp thejig to the new arein position. and templates theother edges untilallguides


jig Building the 1 jig shown youto rout I The at leftallows slid(rnset) ingdovetails without a router table. Cutthe piece plyfence, table, andsupport f rom%-inch wood. Make all the boards 16 inches long; the fence andtable should beabout 10 inches wide piece and thesupport about 3 inches wide. Screw thetable to thetable support sothey form an L. Position thetable 4 inches fromthe bottom of thefence andbore twoholes through opposite ends of thefence intothetable support. Use a router witha straight bit to lengthen the hole on theoutfeed side of thefence intoa curved slot. Attach thetable support to thefence withcarriage bolts, washers, andwing nuts. Leave theboltat theinfeed endloose enough forthetable to pivot when theslotted endis raised or lowered. Remove thesub-base fromyour router anduseit asa template to mark thescrew holes andbit clearance hole onthefence. Thebottom edge of theclearhole ance shoull d i n eu pw i t h t h et o po f t h ej i g table when thetable is level.

Eit clearancehole

Curved \\ -----=-\\\\\ etot

\ W
Routing thejoint S e c u rte h ef e n c e ina vise a n dr o u t groove thedovetail first, then thematching slide. For thegroove, start by installing a straight bit in therouter, attaching thetool to thejigfence, andadjusting thecutting depth. Setthegroove workpiece face-down onthetable, butting itsedge against the bit.Loosen thewing nutat theslotted end andadjust thetable to center thebit on theedge of thestock, thentighten thenut. Secure theworkpiece withthree featherboards, clamping one to thetable and the other twoto thefence on both sides of the cutter. Make thestraight cut,then complete thegroove witha dovetail bit.For theslide, setyour workpiece onthetable andlower thetable to produce a 7e-inch-wide cut. Make a pass on both sides, finishing each (lntheilluscutwitha push stick(right). tration, thefeatherboard on theoutfeed sideof thefence hasbeen removed for clarity.) Test-f it thejoint. lf necessary, raise pass thetable slightly andmake another oneach side of thestock




jig the 1 Building pieces I Cutthetwobase andthestop thickness as block fromplywood thesame your pieces stock. Thebase should bewide theedge andend enough to accommodate guides your plate. router's andsupport base forthefourguides. Use solid wood strips Next, mark theshoulder of thehalf-lap (inset) one workpiece and buttthebase on pieces its with against edges theshoulpositioned near of dermark the middle in the boards. Install a straight bit the mark, router andalign it withtheshoulder guide thenmount anend across thebase plate. pieces thetool's base andagainst guide procedure position to a Repeat the align t h eb i t a t t h eo p p o s i te en d .N o w withtheedges of theworkpiece andattach g u i d e sl , e a v i na g s l i g hg t h ee d g e t ap between therouter base olate andeach (The youmake guide. will f irsthalf-lap pieces.) rout reference notches in thebase in l lh es t o p block u n d eo r ne Finally , stat endguide, against theendof theworkoiece. Countersink all fasteners.

Corner half-lap End quide

Routing thehalf-laps surface and Clamp thejig to a work t h ew o r k p i e c be e t w e etn h eb a s e slide pieces untilit butts against thestop block. pad, Protecting the stock witha wood in place. Adjust the clamp theworkpiece thestock router's cutting depth to one-half positioned withtherouter thickness. Then, inside theguides, turnonthetoolandlowerthebit intotheworkpiece. Guide the router in a clockwise direction to cutthe edges of thehalf-lap, keeping the outside plate flush agains at g u i d e atall base Then routouttheremaining waste, times. thedirection of feeding thetoolagainst (right).To aspossible bit rotation asmuch half-lap, simply remove routa T orcross at thestopblock sothecutcanbemade anypoint along theface of thestock and clamo theworkoiece on both ends.




)top block t/o"x1%"x5"

Jiq aide t/o"x6"x16"

Jig baee 3"x3"x16"

jig the 1 Making your I Thejig shown at leftwillguide router andsecure theworkpiece asyoucut a mortise. Thedimensions suggested inthe illustration willsuitmost routers. Cutthe jig sides plywood. from%-inch Make the base of laminated solid wood. Attach the sides withcountersunk to thebase screws, making sure thepieces areperfectly square to each other. Fashion each stoo block from solid stock bycutting a rabbet %inch deep and1 inch wide, then routing a 4-inch-long slotto accept a %-inch hanger bolt.Mount thebolts 3 inches fromeach endof one in place, side, slip thestop blocks andf ix them with washers and winsnuts.

r) Routing a mortise L Setthe workpiece onthejig'sbase with themortise outline between thestop blocks f lush against theside with andone surface Place theblocks. a shimunder thestock so itstopsurface butts against thestop blocks, co et h ej i ga n d then clamp t h ew o r k p i e t secure thejig in a workbench vise. Next, install a straight router bitthesame diameterasthewidth of themortise, setthe depth of cut,andattach a commercial edge guide plate. to therouter base Center the bit over themortise outline andposition guide flush theedge soit rests against the opposite side of thejig.Adjust each stop block byaligning thebitwiththeendofthe mortise outline, butting theblock against plate, therouter's base andtightening the wing n u t .O n c e t h eb l o c ka s r el o c k e id n position, turnonthetoolwiththebitclear of theworkpiece. Gripping therouter firmly, guide butttheedge against thejig,press plate the base against onestopblock and plunge thebit into theworkpiece. Hold the guide edge against thejig asyoudraw the router through thecut untilit contacts the other stopblock(right). Cuta deep mortise passes, in several increasing thebitdepth each time.





Making theiig youto routperfectly I Thejig at right allows centered mortises in stock of anythickness using a straight bitand guide. plywood; a template Cutthejig topfrom %-inch make thepiece about 15 inches long and wide enough to youexpect accept thethickest board to mortise. Cutthe twojawsfrom2-by-4-inch stock thesame length asthe top. Toprepare itscenter thetop,mark a line down and routa notch Thenotch centered over thelineat oneend. guide you should bethesame width asthetemplate will yourrouter use with bit,andlong enough to accommoyouexpect datethe longest mortise to cut.Next, rout two perpendicular adjustment slots to thecenterline. Finally, bore a viewing hole between thetwoslots. Toassemble thejig,screw hanger into bolts thejaws andfasten the withwashers topto thejaws andwingnuts. 'l
Viewin4 hole

r) Cutting a mortise L trttark a linedown the center of the mortise outline ontheworkpiece. Loosen thewing nuts andsecure thestock between thejaws sothemortise centerline isaligned withthatof thejigtop;make sure thetop edge of theworkpiece is butted against theunderside of thetop.Also align one endof themortise outline under theend of thenotch-offset bythedistance from guide's theedge of thebitto thetemplate edge-then tighten thehanger Align bolts. theedge of thebitwiththeother endof theoutline andclamp a stop block to the plate. topflush against therouter base (left), Rout the mortise slarling thecut guide withthetemplate butted against theendof thenotch andstopping it when plate thebase contacts thestopblock at theother end.




upthejig 1 Setting onthispage allows I Thejig shown jointon youto cutthe notches fora box a router table withlittlesetup consists simply of an extension board to the mitergauge andf itted screwed witha key thatdetermines thespacing Install a straight bitsized of thenotches. width and to thedesired of thenotches mount in a table. Set thedepth therouter to thethickness of your stock of cutequal into thebitto rout andfeed theextension its bottom edge. Reposia notch through sothatthegapbetween tiontheextension thediameter thenotch andthebitequals it in place. Feed the of thebit,thenscrew intothebitagain, cutting a secextension keyto Fashion a wood ondnotch(/eff). andglueit in place f it in thefirstnotch 1 inchfromtheextensoit projects about sionboard.

r) Gutting jointnotches thebox against L nod oneedge of theworkpiece themiter the key, butting itsfaceagainst gauge and, extension. Turnon the router your thumbs around thegauge, hooking intothe bit,cutting the slide the board Fit the notch over the first notch(right). cutkey andmake a second cut.Continue the thiswayuntilyoureach tingnotches To cut edge of the workpiece. opposite in themating endof thenext thenotches fit thelastnotch of thefirstboard board, of the over the keyandbuttoneedge Move mating board against thefirstboard. fonruard theentire assembly to cutthefirst holding both notch in themating board, pieces gauge extenflushagainst themiter notchsion(page 12).RouI theremaining you board thesame way es in themating made thecutsin thef irstboard.


Adjuetment alot

theiig 1 Making I Shaping circular work freehand onthe job.One isa risky shaper way to make the precise task safer andmore isto usea Vjig like block theone shown at left.Build plywood it froma piece of %-inch about 14 inches wide and24 inches long. To customize thejig foryour shaper, holdit above thetable flush withtheback edge andmark thelocation of thespindle on thesurface. Cuta right-angle wedge out of thejig,locating theapex of theangle point. at your marked Then cuta circle outof thejig centered ontheapex; the hole should belarge enough to accommoyouplan date thelargest cutter to use with jig. the Rout twoadjustment slots rnto the back edge of thejig oneither side of the hole-abou t inch % wide a n d5 i n c h e s long. They must lineupwiththeshaper's fence locking handles, ason themodel shown. Thejig canalso besecured to the shaper bymaking it asIong asthetable and clamping it in place at either end.

r) Shaping circular work Z. Position thejig onthetable, centering thebit in thehole. Seat theworkpiece in thejig,butting it against both sides of the V,andadjust thejig andworkpiece until thewidthof cut is setcorrectly. Secure the jig in place. Youmay want to make a test cuton a scrao thesame oiece thickness anddiameter asyour workpiece to becertainthatthedepth and width of cut are correct T . u r no n t h es h a p ea r n db u t t t h ew o r k p i e c ae gains th t eo u t f e e s di d e pivot of theV. Slowly thestock intothe cutter untilit rests f irmly in thejig'sV, moving it against thedirection of cutter (ieff). rotation to prevent kickback Continue rotating theworkpiece until theentire circumference hasbeen shaped, keeping theedge in contact withbothsides of thejig throughout thecut.




thefeatherboard 1 Making he wide c u t ss , uch a ss h a p i ntg I For anextra-wide feathedges of a panel, use onthispage. erboard like theone shown against the It will bothpress thepanel your fingers from thecuttable andshield asyour ter.Cuta 2-by-4 at least aslong the fence, settheboard against shaper's thelocation of thecutfence, andoutline edge of the ter on it. Curve the bottom thefinfeatherboard slightly sothatonly gers theshapwillcontact thepanel during of %-inchingoperation. Bandsaw a series within the wide slots at a shallow angle a rowof sturdy butpltoutline, creating twospacers to the able fingers. Screw sothejig faceof thefeatherboard back allfaswillclear thecutter; countersink (/eff). teners

r) Raising thepanel featherboard to thefence, I Clampthe over thebit,and turn centering thefingers pass, your right For use each ontheshaper. intothe hand to slowly feed theworkpiece your lefthand to keep the pancutter; use thefence(right). el against




guard Building a fence-mounted guard Theshaper shown at right is ideal forfence-guided operations. Cutthepieces plywood, from%-inch making theguard i n t h es h a p e o f a n a r cl a r g e e n o u gth o f r o mt h ef e n c e extend a n ds h i e l d the c u t t ec r o m p l e t e lT yh . es u p p o rb toard should bewide enough to beclamped to thefence when theguard isalmost touching t h es p i n d l e S .c r e w t h eg u a r d flush withthebottom edge of thesupport board; c o u n t e r s itn hkef a s t e n e rN s. exc t lamp nn dm a r k tn t h ej i g i n p o s i t i oa a poino theguard above thecutter. Remove the j i g a n db o r e a 1%-inch-diame r ht oe le t h r o u gth h eg u a r d a t t h em a r kt;h eh o l e y o ut o v i e w w i l la l l o w t h ec u t t ed r uring shaping operations.

guard Making a freestanding For freehand shaping, make a guard like theoneshown at left.Sawn from%-inch plywood, it covers thecutter fromthe shaper t 'o sp ,b a c ka , n ds i d e sC . u tt h e topabout 16 inches long andwide enough to extend from theback of thetable to aboul IYzinches in frontof the cutter. Bevel thefront ends of thesides sothey canbe positioned asclose aspossible to thecutter. Ripthesides sothetopwillsit above thebit withjustenough clearance you for to see thecutter. Hold thetopon thetable andmark a point on it directly over thespindle. Cutanoval-shaped hole through thetopat themark, large enough y o ut o t o c l e a trh es p i n d la en da l l o w move theguard across thetable slightly to accommodate different cutters. Fasten t h et o pt o t h es i d e s w i t hc o u n t e r s u n k position screws. To usetheguard, it on t h et a b l e w i t ht h es p i n d l p er o j e c t i n g t h r o u gth h et o p ,a n dw i t ht h es i d e s as close a sp o s s i b l te o t h ec u t t i n g edges. Clamp t h eg u a r d in place,



oil-Iess The heart of the vacuurrlsysten is thepump, herea1/: horsepower ntodel,which drawsair at a maximtrm of 4.5 cubicfeetper minute. The to a connector that is screwed hose featuresa quick couplerthat attaches Youwill qlsoneedto use into a lrcIethrough the templateor featherboard. as a gasketto sealthe vaatum tapeor closed-cell foam weotherstripping or featherboardand work table. templateand workpiece cavity between

n-[' h. vacuuln shown here isan system l- excellent wav to anchorfeatherand fasten temboards to work tables plates Thesystem is more to workpieces. thanconventional clamping convenient asmuchholdingpowerwithandoffers The only to stock. out riskingdamage must limitationis that matingsurfaces be flat andsmooth. you need To setup a vacuumsystem, thepartsshownin thephotoat left.The to the underside of the taueis fastened a cavfeitherboard or template, creating from thepump is inserted ity.Thehose in a holein thefeatherboard or template. \{hen thejig is placed on thesuifac., theair from thecavity, thepump sucks producing Anypump ratedat a vacuum. perminuteor higher is ade3 cubicfeet If you quatefor the homeworkshop. you can convertlt own a compressor, into a vacuumpump with a transducing pump.

Anchoring a leatherboard to a saw table t h r o u gth h ec e n t e r Bore a n o u t l eh t ole Thehole's diameter of thefeatherboard. ess t h a nt h a to f t h e should b es l i g h t lly you endof thehose connector threaded willuse. Next, apply four strips of closedof the tape to theunderside cellvacuum with forming a quadrilateral featherboard, (insef). the hose connector nogaps Screw hole of the into theoutlet onthetooface oppofeatherboard; use a wrench asshown jig,place the Tosetupthevacuum site. onthesaw table-forthe featherboard d it to m o l d i nc gu ts h o w n , r sp o s i t i o n e press against thefence. theworkpiece aref laton Make certain thetape strips . nap t h eq u i c k couple art t h e t h et a b l eS hose onto the endof thevacuum oumo hose c o n n e c ta on r dt u r no nt h ep u m p . willanchor thefeatherboard Airoressure t h ew o r k p i e c e t o t h et a b l e a sy o uf e e d through lhe cut (right).




thetape and connector 1 Installing provides I A vacuum an effective alternative to double-sided tapeforfastening a plywood template atop a workpiece. Once your template is theproper size, trace its pattern on yourstock andcut out most of the waste fromyour workpiece, leavi n ga b o u % t i n c ho v e r h a n g itn hg et e m plate. Bore theoutlet hole through the middle of thetemplate andapply vacuum tape along theperimeter of itsunderside; make sure there arenogaps between adjacentpieces of tape. With thinstock, add twothinstrips of tape oneither side of the outlet hole presto prevent thevacuum sure frompulling themiddle of theworkpiece (insef). against thetemplate Attach thehose connector to thetooof thetemplatein theoutlethole(right).

r') Routing thepaftern Z- Install a piloted flush-trimming bit in a router, mount thetoolin a table, and adjust thecutting height sothebitwitl shape theentire edge of theworkpiece. Place thetemplate tape-side-down centered ontopof theworkpiece. Attach the vacuum hose to theconnector andswitch o n t h ep u m p toclamp t h et w ob o a r d s together. Turn ontherouter andease the stock into thebit until thetemplate contacts the bit pilot(/eff). Complete the c u t ,k e e p i ntg h ew o r k p i e c f le a to n t h e r o u t etra b l e a n dt h ee d g e o f t h et e m plate pressed flush against thepilot; move against thedirection of bit rotation.



,{ ,,{ ..u


I rom thetimeyoucut roughlumber or I to Iength at thestartofa project power finish it, your saws miter trim to arelikelyto beyour mostandhandsaws used tools.Althoughmanycuttingtasks without them,the canbe accomplished jigs shownin this chapter will make easier-particularly these operations on whenthe same cut mustbe repeated workpieces. several arms,a tablesaw With its iniersecting miter miter jig (page50)guarantees jointsthat form perfect The 90"angles. jigsshown on pages 57and58 tenoning allowyouto cutbothpartsof openmorjointson thetablesaw. tise-and-tenon jigs cuttingtasks that Some facilitate Theciraretoughto performfreehand. for the sabersaw(page cle-cuttingjigs aa) help make 43) andband saw(page In tanquickwork of circulartabletops. pantheraised demwith your tablesaw, eljig (page52) canproducebeveled oanels for frames. jigs will save you time in the These An added benefitis that mostcan shoo. wood,makingthem bebuilt from scrap less costly than storeconsiderably boughtcounterparts.


Miter and croeeaut guide (page 41) Makeamiter cuta and croaacuta with a saber gaw or circular saw

)izing board for aroeaauta @a6e aO) Ueedwith a backaaw for croggcutting; eLop block ie adjuetable

Saber aaw airalecutting ji6 @age a3) Attachea to eaberaaw and pivote around center of workpiece to cuL circlee:pivot point can be located at any point alonqjig arm

jig shown at left provides a The crosscut safeand accurateway to cut long, wide, or heavystockon the table saw.Because it slidesin the saw table'smiter slots, jig makesit easy this sturdy, adjustable squareto the blade. to hold workpieces

Eand eaw airaleautting jig (pase 44) Adjuetablejiq for cutttnq circleaon jiq the band eaw; ia clampedto oaw table and workpiece ie ecrewed to alidinqbar and rotated into blade




Olade height gauge gauqe Meaouring for eettinq the heiqht of a table aaw blade

Table aaw taper jig (page 4A) For cutLin7[apero on the table aaw;quide bar with to4qle clampa is acrewedin place to hold workpiece at proper taper anqle.A aimilar ji4 with a handleand LheL-ehaped ,{ fence poeitioned differently can be ueedon the radial arm aaw (page 48)


Mitering ji6 Qase a7) Uaedto mtter trim on band eaw: ecrewe to mttrer lauqe

Ker-faplitter (paqe 42) Used with a ctrcularaaw to prevent the blade from btndinqin the kerf; placed in kerf of lonq rip cuta partway Lhrou7hoperation

Table saw croaacutjig (page 5O) jig uaedto makecroeaAdjuatable cutg on the table eaw tn wrde, lon4, or heavyotock

jiq (paqe aO) Wedge-making For cuttinq ehimaand wed4eo on the band eaw

Band aaw taper jig (paqe 47) ji4 for Fixed-anqle makin7taper cute on the band aaw

?traightedge guide (page 42) For ripping wif,ha circular aaw


Radial arm saw auxiliary fence and table (page 54) Termtta the radial arm qaw f,o cuT. qrooveqor moldin4owith ito bladein the hortzontalpoeition

jig Tenoning (pase 57) For cuttin4 both parte of open mortiae-and-tenon jointe on the Lable aaw;rune alonq rip fence

Raioed paneljig (pase 52) Attachea to the table eaw rip fence to bevel the edqeeof raised panelefor frame-and'
nanel aaaemhlica

Cove-cutting jig (page 56) Uaedto eet up 4uideboardeon eaw table for cuttin4 cove moldin4

Adjustable tenonin7 jig (pa6e 58) Uaedto cut openmorLiae-and' tenone on the table aaw;adjuata to etock of varyinq thickneaa

Table oaw miter jig (paqe 5O) )imilar to the croaacutjiq, except with analedarma uaedto make matinq 45' miter cuta

Eoard -strai g hte ning ji g (pase 53) Uaedon the table eaw to true the ed4eeof uneven atock; featurea a bar that runa in mtter alot

thejig 1 Building I Thejig shown makes it easy at right workpieces to crosscut several to thesame length byhand. ltsadjustable stop block canbe positioned at varying distances fromthe kerfin thefence. Cutthebase p l y w o otd a n df e n c e f r o m% - i n c h othe dimensions suggested in theillustration. Use solid wood forthestoo block andlio. Screw thelipto theunderside of thebase, taking care to align theedges of thetwo pieces. Saw thefence intotwosegments about 7 inches fromoneendandusea router fitted witha %-inch bitto cutgrooves p i e c ea sb o u I t h r o u gb ho t h t inch from theirtopedges; stop thegrooves about 2 piece. inches from theends of each Screw thetwofence sections to thebase, ensuringthatthegapbetween thetwopieces iswide e n o u gth oaccommoda ea w ats blade. Saw a 9O' kerf across thesurface o f t h eb a s e i n l i n ew i t ht h e k e r fi n t h e fence. Toprepare thestop block, cuta 3inch-long rabbet ononefaceandbore a clearance hole through itscenter fora I%inch-long, %-inch-diameter carriage bolt. F a s t etn h eb l o c k t o t h ef e n c e w i t ht h e bolt, washer, andwing nut.

r) Making a crosscut L eufithelip against theedge of your workbench, loosen nut, thewing and slide the stop block along thefence to theproper distance fromthekerfbetween thetwo fence sections. Tighten thewing nutand butttheendof theworkpiece against the stop block, Hold thestock f irmly against thefenceasyousaw(right).



theiig 1 Assembling guide shown I Themultipurpose edge y o ut o c u te i t h e4 r5" a trri g h w t i l la l l o w witha saber m i t , cutsor 90" crosscuts miter
t h ej i g fr o m c i r c u l as r a w .M a k e p iie c e r. e f e r r i ntg o ao of l-inchplywood fn orsuggeste dd imensions. theillustratio o f a t r i a n g lw e ith i n t h es h a p e C u tt h e b a s e a n dt w o 4 5 " a n g l e s(.T o o n e9 0 " a n g l e m a k ea ; r gf o r 3 0 " o r 6 0 " m i t e rc u t s .t h e s i d e s h o r r lh de 1 2 1 6 a n d2 0 i n c h eo sr ) crew the a v a r i a t i oo nf t h e 3 - 4 - 5r a t i o . S - o n e o n e a c hs i d e fences to thebase T . h ef e n c e s o p p o s i to en eo f t h e 4 5 " a n g l e s o f t h ej i g b a s e . m u s tb e f l u s hw i t ht h ee d g e
S A Wo r a

r) Making a mitercut L t o c u ta m i t e ru s i n g t h e j i g ,s e tt h e o n a w o r ks u r f a c w e i t ht h e c u t t i n g stock l i n eo n t h e b o a r d e x t e n d i no gf f t h e t a b l e . w i t ht h e l i n ea n d Align t h ec u t t i n g edge b u t tt h e a n g l e d s i d eo f t h e j i g a g a i n stth e saw's b a s ep l a t e , w i t h t h e f e n c eo n t h e of the guide flushagainst the edge bottom o f t h ew o r k p i e cC el .a m p t h ej i g i n p l a c e t h ec u t , k e e p i nt g h e s a wf l u s h a n dm a k e h r o u g h o u t h t eo p e r a t i o n a g a i n stth e . 1 i t g (left).To makea 90" crosscut, usethe square s i d eo f t h e j i g a sy o u rg u r d e .

Using a kerf splitter A kerfsplitter liketheoneshown at left preven w i l lh e l p atc i r c u l a sra wb l a d e from binding rnitskerf andkicking back. Choose %-inch hardboard forthesolitter piece plywood and%-inch fortheshoulders; refer to theillustration forsuggested dimensions. Fasten thethree oieces together withscrews. To usethejig,start thecut,turnoffthesaw, andinsert the splitter in thekerfa fewinches behind t h es a w B . ack u pt h es a w slightly , en th (left).Forparliccontinue the operation ularly long cuts, advance thekerf splitter periodically to keep it near thesaw.

Edge atrip tl"x4"xB'

guide Ripping witha straightedge youto make Thejig shown above enables accurate ripcutsin panels long manufactured likeplywood. Make thebase from%plywood inchplywood; use %-inch fortheedge strip. Glue the stripparallel to the base, offsetting its edge about 4 inches fromoneedge of the base. Trimthebase to its proper width for your plate sawbybutting thetool's base against thejig'sedge

stripandcutting along the length of the base. To usethejig, mark a cutting line onthepanel andclamp thestock to a platformof 2-by-4s resting atop sawhorses. Clamp theguide to the panel, aligning thetrimmed edge of thebase withthecutting lineontheworkpiece. Make the cul (above), keeping thesaw's plate base flush against theedge strip throughout theoperation.


jig the 1 Building I Tocutcircles bigger than thecapacity of commercial saber sawjigs,usea guide shop-made customized foryour saw. Theexact size of thejig canvary, butthe dimensions suggested in the illustration ai leftwillyield a jig large enough to cut panel. a circle to theedges of a 4-by-8 Begin by removing the blade fromyour plate sawandoutlining itsbase ona piece plywood. of %-inch Reinstall theblade and c u ta l o n g t h em a r k s m , a k i ntg h es e c t i o n plate thatwillbebeneath thebase slightly larger thantheplate. Lighten thejig by trimming it to theshape of an L, then cut outthenotch forthe blade. Screw thejig plate, to the base ensuring thattheback o f t h eb l a d e i sf l u s h agains t eb o t t o m th of thenotch. Use a pencil to mark a pivot l i n eo n t h ej i g t h a ti s a l i g n ew d i t ht h e teeth of theblade.

jig the J Using f- Clamp down thestock withasmuch of theworkpiece as possible pads extending off thetable, using wood to protect thestock. Cutintothestock to bring theblade upto theouty o uw i l lb ec u t t i n g l i n eo f t h ec i r c l e T .h e n drive a screw into thejig onthepivot lineat thecenter of thecircle. Holding the sawandthestock firmly, cut outthe cicle (below), shifting the clamps andworkpiece asnecessary.




jig the 1 Building perfect I For cutting circles ontheband jigcustom-built use saw, a circle-cutting for your ioollike theone shown at left.Refer to the illustration forsuggested dimensions. Use a router fittedwitha dovetail bitto cut groove a %-inch-deep inthemiddle ofthejig base. Then usea table saw to rip a thin, beveled board thatwillslide smoothly in (Set thechannel. thesaw blade bevel angle b ym e a s u r i n th ge a n g l e o f t h ec h a n n e l edges.) Cutoutthenotch ontheband saw. position Then thejig base onthesaw table sothattheblade lies in thenotch andthe atrh e d o v e t ag i lr o o vie s p e r p e n d i c utlo direction of cut. Now screw the suooort arms to theunderside of thejig base; the arms should h u gt h es i d e s o f t h eb a n d saw table. Bore twoscrew holes through thebottom of thedovetail in the channel jig base roughly 1 inch and3 inches from theunnotched end; also bore three holes throueh thebar.

Contact point

Keleaae cut


r) Preparing theworkpiece youptan I ftlarX thecircumference andcenter of thecircre to cuton its underside. Then, use theband saw to cutoffthe fourcorners of theworkpiece to keep it fromhitting theclamps thatwillsecure thejig to thetable astheworkpiece turns. Make a release cutfromtheedge of theworkpiece to themarked cir-

(above, cumference andveer off to the edge /eff). Screw the pivot barto thecenter of theworkpiece through oneof thebar's (above, holes right), leavingthe screw loose enough to pivot the point workpiece. Turn theworkpiece over andmark thecontact where theblade touched thecircumference durins therelease cut.



theworkpiece tothejig Q Securing r-,f Clamp thejig base to the band saw table, making sure thesupport arms are butted against thetable's edges. Slide the pivot barinto thechannel in thebase and theworkorece oivot until themarked contactpoint touches theblade. Screw through one of theholes in thejig base to lock the pivotbarin place (left),

Completing thecircle Turn onthesaw andoivot theworkpiece into theblade in a clockwise direction(below), feeding thepiece withyour right hand untrl thecutis completed.


Building thejig I Small wedges areused forwedged tenons, jig orto shim cabinets on uneven f loors. The you quickshown at leftallows to make them l y o nt h e b a n d saw( .You c a na l s o u s et h e same d e v i co e na t a b l e s a w .R ) e f etro t h e illustration forsuggested dimensions, making sure thehardwood runner fitssnugly in the saw table miter slot. Screw therunner to the underside of thebase sothattherunner extends beyond thetabletop andthebase sits s q u a r eo ly nt h et a b l e when sin t h er u n n ei r theslot; countersink thefasteners. Next, screw t h ef e n c e t o t h et o po f t h eb a s ea ; ngle the fence at about 4oto thefront andback edges of thebase. Setthejig onthetable withthe r u n n ei r n t h es l o tt,u r no nt h es a wa , n dc u t through thebase until theblade contacts the fence. Turn offthesaw, remove thejig,and cuta slot through thestop block fora machine bolt. Attach theblock to thebase, adding a washe arn dw i n g nut. T h eb l o c k shoulb de f lush against thefence withthetip of itsangled endaligned withthekerf. 'l

9top block '/""x1%"x4"

% "x 1 "x 1 5 % "

Kunner '/""x%"x19"

r) Cutting wedges L for your wedge stock, cut a stripof wood cross-grain fromtheendof a board; make it aswide asthedesired length of t h ew e d g e s P.o s i t i ot n h ej i g o n t h es a w tableH . o l d i ny go u r w i t hi t s e d g e stock flush against thefence and one endbutted against feed thestop block, thelig across your thetable. Make sure hands areclear (right). of theblade asyoucut each wedge Tocreate 4" angle wedges, square theend of your stock onthetable sawbefore each c u t .l f y o us i m p l f yl i pt h ew o r k p i e b ce tween cuts ontheband saw, allthewedges after thef irstwillhave 8' angles. Toprowedges, duce thicker loosen thewing nut and slide thestop block slightly away from thekerf . Tighten thewing nutandcutthe (inset). wedges



Making taper cuts jigshown Thesimple L-shaped at right will youto cuttapers enable ontheband saw. Mark thedesired taper on theworkpiece andplace it on a board witha perfectly square edge, aligning themarked line with theboard's edge. Use thelong edge and theendof theworkpiece asa straightedge to mark anangled cutting line andthelip ontheboard. Saw along thecutting line, stopping 2 inches from theendof thecut Turn at the bottom endof the board. the board 90" to cut outthe lip.To usethe board asa jig,setup the band saw's rip fence to theright of theblade andhold the jig flush against thefence. Align theedge of thejig'slipwiththesaw blade andlock thefence in position. Seat theworkpiece against thejig.Turn onthesaw andslide theworkpiece andthejig together across the tableintothe blade(right), keeping bothhands clear of thecutting edge.


3/n" x B" x'14"


Fence %"x13A"x13"

Guide a69embly

Jiq body \ 1%"x11"x11"

Mitering trim Use thejig shown at leftto miter trimon theband without saw angling the miter gauge. Form thejig body byface-gluing pieces plywood twosquare of %-inch together. Once theadhesive has dried, cuta 45' miter fromcorner to corner across the body, forming a ledge onwhich theworkpiece willsit.Cuttwoslots intotheface of thebody % inchbelow theangled ledge jaws. to accommodate spring clamp Next, cutthefence from solid stock, notch it for theclamps, andattach it to thejig body sothatitstopedge extends %inchabove gauge theledge, Screw thejigto themiter andfeed thejig into theblade to trimthe lower end. Tocuta miter, clamp theworkpiece face-down ontheledge andf lush against thefence, andfeed thejig foward (left). gauge withthemiter Besure to raise guide thesaw's assembly highenough to avoid hitting thejigorworkpiece.


jig for theradialarm sawcanbe A taper jig shown like thetablesaw built exactly with oneaddition: Because thesaw below. above thetable,the motoris suspended radialarm sawjig canonly befed with onehand,makinga handlenecessary.


a taper cut 1 Making Holding I For accurate taper cuts onthetable saw, build thisjig (tnsef) of thejig base nearest theblade. theworkpiece securely, plywood. from%-inch Refer to the illustration for suggested position theguide bar against it,withthelipsnugly against theend Toassemble thejig,setthesawblade to its maxi- of theworkpiece. Screw theguide barto thebase andpress the dimensions. mum height, buttoneside of thejig base against the toggle clamps down to secure theworkpiece to thejig.Tomake cutting flush against theother side of the thecut,setthe blade height andslide thejig andworkpiece blade andposition theripfence line forthetaper making hand is in linewiththe base. Lower theblade andmark a cutting onthe across thetable, sure thatneither (Caution: guard withtheedge blade(above). Blade removed for clarig.) workpiece, then setit onthebase, aligning theline


gauge a blade height Using Your table saw's blade canbe setat a quickly specific height witha blade height gauge. Make thejig fromstrips of %-or % o - i n c h - t hh ic ak r d b o ao rd rsolid wood laminated together. First, rip a length of the stock to a width of 3 inches. Crosscut intostrips, withan 8thepiece starting inchlength. Make each successive strip % inchshorter than theorevious one. Once allthestrips arecut,glue them together face-to-face withoneendaligned. Touse thejig,setit on thesaw table beside the blade height the blade androtate adjustment crank until theblade contacts thegauge at thedesired heighl(right).

Illl llll llll lllt llll llll illlllt filllll fit-l1ll"tlll-1[t'llt"lltl llt'tlll
Shop-made table ineerte lf ihe table inserLs eupplied wiih vour Nable saw are aL leaeN %inchthick, youcan makeyour ownfrom woodecrape. The inserle willminimize Nheqap belweenlhe eawblade andNheLable ineerL o?eninq and ?reventecrapwoodfrom \ jamminq aqaineN the blade. Uee Lhefactory-euppliedineerl ae a lemplale t o cul a blank from a /.7 piece of woodof lhe eamethickneee.Tap a finisfur(g nailinVo Ihe blank'e front enAunlil'/oinchprotrudee from if. (Thenailwilloerve ae an anchor in Vlace lhe ineerL while the eawie runninq.) Crank Nhe blade pint o keep to ite loweet, eetlinq and eellhe newineert in place.TosilionLhe rip fenceto etraddleNheinserl,makinq eureIhat iI is noI directlyin line withlhe cuttinqedqe.Iurn onbheeawand crankNheblade olowly up to itrohiqheotoetlinq, cutlinq a eloLNhrouqh Nhe woodineerl.


The tablesaw miterjig shownat right k jig described below, similar to the crosscut exceptthat insteadof an extensionand safetyblockit featurestwo l2-inch-long 1-by-4 miter arms.Placedat 90" to each other in the middle of thejig, the arms miteredalong ensure that a workpiece perfect a 90" corner guide will one form with a boardcut along the other arm.


Clearplaetic quard

)top block 2"x4"x4"

Kernforcinq block 2"x2"x8" 9upporEframe 2"x3"x36"

tothebase therunners 1 Aftaching jig custom-made theone shown above is foryour table sawlike I A crosscut you Refer to the illustraworking with unwieldy stock. valuable if are especially hardwood runners Start bycutting two25-inch-long dimensions. tionforsuggested your for into the Bore countersink clearance holes screws fit miter slots. and to in slots inches from each end. Place the runners the of the runners, 3 undersides b ya b o u8 t inches. o u tt o o v e r h a n th geb a c k e n do f t h et a b l e a n ds l i d e them jig wood its edge flush with their overbase squarely on the strips, Position the (/eff). the runners and the runners to the base Slide hanging ends, andscrew the and drive in the other two screws. offthefront endof thetable base






r) Installing guide thesupport frame and you I W,tn therunners in miter still the slots, attach thesupport thebase fromunderneath thejig,making sure countersink jig glue frame along theback edge of the and onthereinforcingthefasteners. Glue thesafety block to theoutside face of the block, centered between therunners. Then make a cutthrough guide, again centered onthekerf. Raise thesaw blade and finthesupport frame andthree-quarters of theway across thebase. ishthecut,sawing completely through theguide butonly slightplastic Turn offthesaw andlower theblade. Screw a reinforcing block ly intothesafety block. Mount a clear sheet over thesaw guide position guide guard, to the and the along thefront edge of the kerf asa blade fastening it to thereinforcing blocks with jig,using a carpenter's square to ensure thatit is square with wing nuts orscrews. (above)and thesawkerf. Clamp in place theguide screw it to

Q Crosscutting r-,1Formaking repeat cutsto thesame length, screw an extension to the right side of theguide andclamp a stop block to it. Cuta notch in theblock to hold the clamp in place when it is loosened. Touse thejig,fit therunners into themrter slots andslide thejig toward the back of the table until theblade enters thekerf. Hold theworkpiece against theguide, slide the s t o pb l o c k t o t h ed e s i r e p do s i t i o n a,n d . ith clamp i t i n p l a c eW t h ew o r k p i e c e held firmly agains th t eg u i d e a n dt h e s t o pb l o c ks ,lide t h ej i g s t e a d r a ly cross thetable(left), feeding theworkpiece into theblade.



jig the 1 Making without I Toraise a panel onthetable saw adlusting theblade jigshown at left. Refer totheillustration angle, use theshop-built forsuggested dimensions. Screw thelipalong thebottom edge fence, making thescrews where of theangled sure to position d ence they w i l ln o ti n t e r f e r w ei t ht h e b l a d eP . rop t h ea n g l e f line against theauxiliary fence at thesame angle asthecutting marked outonthepanel to beraised. Use a sliding bevel to transferthisangle to triangular-shaped supports thatwillf it between in thetwofences andcut thesupports to fit. Fixthesupports (above). place withscrews

r) Raising a panel to position thejig L Snttt theripfence w i t ht h ej o i n t o nt h es a w table o f t h el i p ence a n da n g l efd o v et rh eb l a d e e ;n s u r e thatthescrews arewellclear of thetable T.u r n o n t h es a w a n dc r a n k the opening to cut a kerf through the blade up slowly l i p .N e x ts , e a t h ep a n eiln t h ej i g a n d untia l sina d j u stth eh e i g ho t f t h eb l a d e gletooth is protruding beyond thefront of thepanel. Make a testcut in a scrap board thesame thickness astheoanel andihen groove. Adjust the testitsf it in theframe position of thefence orblade, if necessary, pl a n e b l ,e v e l i n th and c u tt h ea c t u a gee n d grainfust (right).



1iil ilil ilil tiiilililil|il ilil|ill tiiillil illl llll llil illl llll liil llll ili iii ill {il lti {$ {il i.Uui ul l$ ili i.ti iii iil iil ul ill

wide panele Crosscult'ing or you are workinq lf yourIable oawdoeenot havean exLension, qauqe, you can t'o wiLh mit'er large cuN a lhal are t'oo wiNh Vanelo 1-by'3fencelo the by clampinq a equare crosscutlheee panelo t'hanthe Vanel io Nhatis lonqer Uoea 1-by-3 undereide of the panel. wideand carefully poeition it, undernealh perVendicular H

"n22" :? "|flV i:o;:," F fenceto the Nhe

wiLhC Vanel Guide clampo. along Nhefence the ouler edge of your eaw'e table ao you the cuN. make

' '


Truing a board on a table saw, Totrueuneven boards jig shown build theboard straightening h, e B from % - i n cp hl y w o o td above .uilt jig slides gauge miter in thetable saw's whrle theboard to bestraightened slot, in place b ys u p p o r btl o c ka sn d isheld First cut the base from toggle clamps. plywood; it about 9 inches %-inch make of your wide andlonger than thewidth saw t a b l eC . u ta r u n n etro f i t t h e l e f t gauge make it longer hand miter slot; it onthe andposition than thejig base sothattheinside underside of thebase theblade by edge of thebase overlaps %inch. Screw therunner to thebottom allthescrews. of thejig,countersinking twosupport blocks to the Next, screw toggle clamps onthem; base andinstall position sotheworkthesupport blocks piece . inally, i sc e n t e r e od nt h eb a s eF it totheend fashion a handle and attach t h ej i g ,f i r s t r i mt h e o f t h ej i g .T o u s e it across inside edge square byrunning to be t. hen clamp t h eb o a r d t h eb l a d e to thejig andrepeat to true straightened
itc odopc (zhnvp)


Cutout 2 % "x 9 % "

LiP '/+" abovetable

Building and setting upthejig 1 I lf youwant to cutgrooves or molding ontheradial armsaw position, withtheblade in thehorizontal tryanauxiliary fence andtable liketheoneshown above. Thebase raises theworkpiece proto thecutter, andthefence supports thework while guard. viding a clearance cutout forthedado or molding head plyCutthefence andthetwopieces forthebase from%-inch pieces wood; make the base thesame size asthe frontsaw pieces table. Screw the base together, offsetting thetopslightly

to create a gapalong thefence thatwill prevent sawdust fromaccumulating between the base andthefence. When sawingthe fence cutout, leave a lipthatwillprotrude at least %i n c h a b o v te h eb a s e when t h ej i g i s i n s t a l l eT dh . el i pw i l l support theworkpiece asit rides along thefence during a cut. Screw thefence to thebase. Tosetupthejig,slipthefence between thefront saw table andthetable spacer, thentightenthetable clamos to secure it.

r') Cutting a molding L lnstall a molding head onyour saw, thensecure theworkpiece byclamping onefeatherboard to theoutfeed sideof thefence andanother to thetable, braced witha support board, Adjust themolding head for a %-inch-deep cut,making cerju guard ds t t a i nt h e b l a d e ispositione above theworkpiece. Feed thestock into the cutters withyourrighthand(right); useyourleft hand to press theworkpiece against thefence. Finish thepass witha push passes stick. Make asmany asnecessary, advancing themolding head no more than%inchintotheworkpiece at y o uh a v e a time. Once c u t t h ed e s i r e d profile , ake pass, m a final, very shallow e f e e d i ns gl o w l a y n de v e n lty o p r o d u ca finish. smooth




llll llllllllllllllllllti illt illlllillllllll lllt rlll lllt ijllfiit lll1 fill
Tt? 9HO7
A miter Oauge extension f,hebearIo increase inq eurfaceof your tableeaws miler gauqe or Nomakere?eatcrogo' the aid cu|s wiNh of a eNopblock, athach a wood exDeneion lo the qau7e.The excension lo muel be lonqenouqh )crew iNNolhe qauqeand Vuoh the eaw blade. extendbeyond saw off Nhe Lo cut,off the endof t'heexEension.Turn Nhegauqe To a fronL lable. eet up to Ihe of Nhe and slideLhemiLer 6auqe dis' Nhe desired exEension clampa woodblockloNhe ehopblock, Foreachcut, butt' trheedqeof the work' lance from Nheb1ade, olop block. andlhe enda7aineNthe piece aqaineNNhe exLeneion

anauxiliary fence Using youuse head a dado ormolding Anytime withthe sawin conjunction onyour table youneed to attach a wood rip fence, the blades fromconfence to orevent from themetal one. Cutthefence tacting plywood length asthe thesame %-inch higher. Lower the ripfence andslightly the thesaw table andscrew blades below Mark the fence to theripfence. wood andposition depth of cut onthefence fence directly over thedado theauxiliary fence is head, ensuring thatthemetal Turn onthesaw and of theblade. clear head tothe u pt h ed a d o s l o w lc yr a n k producing line, a relief cutin the marked line on fence. Buttthecutting auxiliary theouter blade theworkpiece against flush agains th te a n dl o c k t h ef e n c e like stock. For most cutting operations, in theillustration, cutshown therabbet with should besupported theworkpiece at a featherboards. Feed theworkpiece (above). rate,using bothhands steady


and using thejig 1 Building I Fashion moldins onthetable with saw guide thehelp of thecove--cutting shown at left.Toconstruct thejig,fasten two 18inch-long l-by-2s to two9-inch-long 1-by2 s w i t hc a r r i a gb eo l t s a n dw i n gn u t s , forming twosets of parallel arms. Adjust the jigsothedistance between theinside edges o f t h et w ol o n g arms e q u a lts h ew i d t h of thecove. Crank theblade to thedesired depth of cut.Lay theguide across theblade a n dr o t a t e r t u n t i lt h e b l a d et,u r n e d by justtouches hand, theinside edges of the llong a r m sT . hen r u na p e n c ia t h ei n s i d e guidelines edges of thelong arms to trace (/eft). across thetableinsert

r) Cutting a cove 1 Remorethe andlower theblade beneath thetable. Outline euide thedesired cove profile ontheleaJing endof theworkpiece, then setthestock onthesaw table, aligning the marked outline with theguidelines onthetable insert. Buttguide boards against theedges l t h eg u i d e l i n e ss ; eb o a r dls o f t h ew o r k p i e c ae n dc l a m p t h e mp a r a l l e to u ong enough tospan t h es a w t a b l eC . rant kh eb l a d e %i n c ha b o v t e h et a b l eT . om a k e t h ef i r s tp a s s , (above), push feed your theworkpiece steadily using blocks when hands approach the passes blade area. Make asmany asnecessary, raisingthe blade %inch at a time,


jig the 1 Building thefence-straddling I Easy to assemble, j i gs h o w n w e l lf o rc u t t i n g at righw t orks openmortise-and-tenon two-shouldered joints. suggested Refer to thedimensions thethickmaking sure in theillustration, andwidth of thebrace ness of thespacer your s m o o t ha ly long allow t h ej i gt o s l i d e u tt h eb o d y r i pf e n c e withou w t o b b l i nC g. plywood andthe from34-inch andbrace guide wood. Saw an from solid andspacer of the fora handle in one corner oval hole jig body theguide to thebody andattach hole, making in front ofthehandle directly f ctly i s p e re vertical. t h a tt h eg u i d e sure (Theblade of the maynotch the bottom youuse guide Screw time thejig.) thefirst below block t o t h eb o d y a s m a lw l ood e n da t t a c a h t o g g lc el a m p t h eh a n d l a fa , sten t h es p a c e r t o t h e b l o c kF . inally in olace. andbrace

r) Cutting a mortise Butt I Place theiig astride thefence. and t h ew o r k p i e c ae gains th t ej i g g u i d e . o s i t i ot n to i t i n p l a c eP h ef e n c e clamp with marks ontheboard align thecutting thejigalong thefence theblade andslide to make Ihe cuI (lefil.




Erace 3/+"x13/+"x351/q"

Fence 3/+"x5%"x351/+"



I Thejig shown above canbeused on the tablesawto cut bothparts of an joint. mortise-and-tenon open Refer to theillustration forsuggested dimensions. Cutthejig fence andback fromthree pieces plywood of %-inch andsawa 45' bevel at oneendof each board; the pieces should bewider than theheight ofyour saw's ripfence. Fasten twopieces together face-to-face to fashion the back, thenusecountersunk screws to attach thefence andback together in an L shape; make sure thefasteners will path youuse notbein theblade's when the jig (inset). Next, cut the brace from solid stock, bevel its ends andattach it along t h et o p e d g e s o f t h ef e n c e andback, forming a triangle. Cuttherunnerfromsolid wood andattach it to the fence sothatthejig runs smoothly across (The thetable without wobbling. runner in thisillustration hasbeen notched to fit theparticular desrgn of thesaw's rip plasfence.) Finally, cuta piece of clear guard tic asa blade andscrew it to the jig back flush withitsfront face.

the lig 1 Assembling

r') Mounting theeccentric clamp pieces 1 tttat,,e plywood theclamp byface-gluing three of %-inch andcutting the assembly into theshape shown. Bore a prlot hole through thejig back andtheclamp, thenfasten theclamp in place; wedge oneof your workpieces between theedge of theclamp andthefence asyoudrive thescrew. Offset thefastener sotheclamp can (above), (Drill pivot eccentrically youto move additional holes in thejig back to enable theclamp to accommodate stock of varying thicknesses.)



a tenon Cutting

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jig A miter 4augeangle-eetling useon Tokeep lrack of non-eLandard angleo lhalyou commonly yourtable oaw'6 miter qauqe, makea sel of anqle-eeNIinq 1iqo. and clamV Ihemto the miler )implycut Lwo1-by-2e q a u q eo , n ea q a i n e l t h eb a ra n d o n ea q a i n o t r L h e in L face.7crew t h e mN o q e L h e r No an angled i they form ohape and markdownf,heanqle ,, l i k ea o l i d i n g o n t h e j i g , U e et h e d e v i c e t o ee| the miter bevel qaugequickly Lo a opecific angle.

S e tt h e l i g o n t h e s a wt a b l ei n f r o n t

of theblade withtherunner andfence straddling theripfence. Secure theworkpiece in thejig byturning theeccentric clamp, andposition theripfence sothat t h eb l a d e isinline w i t ha t e n o n cheek mark Feed the cutting ontheworkpiece. jig into (Your f irstuse theblade. of the F w i l lp r o d u c ae kerf i n t h eb a c k . )l i p 1ig theworkpiece in the1ig andrepeat to cut (above). cheek Remove thejig theother from lower thecutting height thetable, t o t h el e v eo l f t h es h o u l d e r as n , ds h i f t theriofence to cutthetenon shoulders.


',r;&c &w


!-. weba

rillinga holeis simple, but there when you are times ajig cansave
when time and frustration,especially precisely, the hole mustbe located or at jig, The center-drilling an exactangle. for example, ensures that doweljoint holeswill be centered in the edges of matingworkpieces. Thejig for drilling holeson the drill press equally spaced virtually eliminates the needfor measuring andmarkingandguarantees consistently accurate results. The tilting tableandpocketholejigs for boringthe angled areboth invaluable holes that arecommonlyused to attach tabletops andchairseats to legs andrails. for drilling deepholes The technique shownon page 67 willdoubleyour drill press's quill stroke, you to bore allowing straight throughthick stockwithout resorting to an extension bit. A SETECTI(IN OFDRILTING JIGS

Jig for boring equally spaced holes (pa6e 64) Uaedon drill preaa

Cenier-drilling ji6 Qaqe 62) Uaed with an electric drill to locate the center of a board ed1e; dowelo at the enda of the arm are butted aqainet oppoeite board facea

jig (page 65) V-bloak Holde cvlindrical stock on drill preee table

Pocket holejig (page 66) Clampedto drill preaa table to bore pocket holee;workpiece reste edqe-down in an4ledcradle

Tilting table jig

(pase 65)
Equipped with thejig shown at left, press a drill canbore a rowof equally quicklyand accurately. spaced holes jig The is simpleto buildfrom scrap woodanda shortdowel.

Adjuetableji4 attached to drill preae table for borin7 anqled holea;workpiece lies face-downon top


Drilling holes dowel i gs h o wa The s i m p l je nb o vw e i l le n a b l e youto bore holes thatarecentered on provides theedge of a board. Theinset dimensions. Mark thecenter suggested a of thetopface of thearm, andbore fora guide Thehole in the hole bushing. bushing should bethesame size asthe youplan Turn holes to drill. thearmover anddraw a linedown itsmiddle, Mark points ontheline1 inch from each end. (Check your measurements: Thepoints must ro b ee q u i d i s t afn tm t h ec e n t e r . ) hole halfway Then bore a %-inch-diameter through thearmat each mark. Dab some glue i n t ot h eh o l e s a n di n s e rd towels. protrude They should byabout %inch. To position it ontheworkpiece use the1ig, opposite sothatthedowels buttagainst Holding faces of thestock. thejig wrth one h a n df,i t t h ed r i l lb i t i n t o t h eb u s h ingandbore the hole(above).

llrlitllilltil llillll] lllljrJl ltllLi illlllll lllillllllllilllllillIJ

lnoertin7dowels wilh a deprh gauqe ToavoidNheriekof drivinq dowele too deeVly and epliNIinq the board, try thie eimple deplhqauqe. Uee a 6-inch-lonq
Vieceof ebock one-hala fe Nhick ae the lenqlhof the

dowele.9ore a hole n e a ro n ee n d L h a N
ie eliqhbly l a r q e rL h a n l h e

dowel diameler.Then elipthe 1igaround each you laV it, in Vlace. when Thedowelwill dowel be aI Nhe correcldepthwhenit ie fluehwith t.heNoV of the deplh qauqe.


thetable 1 Making I T ob o r e holes w i t h o utti l t i n g angled jig sa b l e u t h ed r i l lp r e s t , se t h et i l t i n g shown at right, built from solid stock and plywood. %-inch Refer to theillustration for suggested dimensions. Connect the j i g t o pt o t h eb a s e piano using a sturdy hinge. Cuta %-inch-wide slotin thesupportbrackets oneto the andscrew each with top;secure thebrackets to thebase wing nuts, washers, andhanger bolts.

r) Drilling angled holes , a ^ (Center thejig under thedrillpress spindle c,l a m p t h eb a s e t o t h et a b l e , andloosen thewingnuts. Use a protractor anda sliding bevel to setthe angle of thetop, then tighten thewing nuts. Clamp theworkpiece to thejig andbore thehole(below).

9upport bracket t/o" xl %"x'lO"


thejig 1 Making holes of equally spaced of boring a row thetask I Make thisjigto simplify . crew o f t h eb a s et,h e n flush w i t ho n ee d g e S t h ef e n c e o nt h ed r i l lp r e s s (The hole holder. asa dowel of thefence a wood block to thecenter attach given dimensions thejig.)Tne is made thefirsttimeyouuse forthedowel t r i l lp r e sts ables. i l ls u i tm o s d i n t h ei l l u s t r a t iw on

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Making wood plugo eavelime makinq wood by uoin4 a pluqe of IaVe Noremove piece themfromtheirholee, Use a oluacull,eron the drill Vr:"eir,o borea rowof plugeNo Cover Nhe Lhedepthyou require. t aVe, row wilh a eNrip of maekinq on Nhe lo lenqth then rip Ihe pluqe bandsaw and eimplypeeloff the the rowof Vluqe. ta?e to remove

r) Boring theholes able. L S e t h e1 i g o nt h ed r i l lp r e sts Mark the location of thef irsttwoholes thefence theworkpiece against andseat mark thefirstdrilling of thejig,aligning against a guide block under thebit.Butt i t t ot h e t h eb a c k o f t h ej i g a n dc l a m p , lide t h ej i g t h ef i r s th o l e s t a b l eB . ore a hole b l o c ka , n db o r e along t h eg u i d e F l older . i ta d o w e l t h r o u gt h h ed o w eh andinto the intheholder through thehole Slide thejig until hole in theworkpiece. mark isaligned under thesecond drilling and ph ej i gt o t h et a b l e t h eb i t .C l a m t d o l eT . o d r t l le a c h bore t h es e c o n h hg o l er ,etrac tt h ed o w ea l nd remainin along thejig fence. slide theworkpiece into thelasthole Push thedowel down youmaoe.


llllilI1 lllltlllll1 lllt ilij]ltilu ili ll11 illlllit fill illt llr1 lllll]t1
Depth guideo for drilling I i'l I To borea holelo an exacL I | il : I q-hr".t:','* t ape I d,epNh, uee a maekin4 flag or a deplh orop block, I : ll|;t lf you are ueinqNheNape, F:;= y meaeure the drillinq depth t from the Lip of the"biv,'then ffufl-{-ffi;{. wra?a eNriV of NaVe around ive'ehank. Wnnarhw lhe bit W whenlhe NaVe touch,ee the sy1#' stock.To u e ea b l o c k e , ub- W tractNhedrillina deplh from f il Nhelenqth ofrhibit'Vrotrud- tT--*l i n qf r o m l h e c h u c k C . UL a Y -tD' piiceof 1-by-1 eNockNo lhie length, ite middle. Nhen borea holeNhrouqh your )lip the bit throuqh the block andbore hole unlilthe block t ouch ee Lhe workpi ece.

Boring holes in cylindrical stock igshown T om a k e t h es i m p l e V - b l o cjk above, mark a right-angle V on theend ofa piece ofsolid stock t h a ti s l o n g your e n o u gth o hold w o r k p i e cT eh . en, adjust theblade angle onyour table saw to 45"andalign one cutting line with the b l a d eB . u t t h er i pf e n c e agains th te stock andfeed theboard to cutthefirst s i d eo f t h eV . R e v e r s e ep i e c e th and make t h es e c o n c du t .T o u s et h ej i g , secure it to thedrilltable sothedrillbit t o u c h ets h ec e n t eo r f t h eV w h e n the quillisextended. Hold theworkpiece in t h eV , a l i g n i ntg h eb i t o v e t r h ec u t t i n g m a r ks , e tt h ed r i l l i n d gepth a, n db o r e the hole(above).


theiig 1 Making I T ob o r e o o c k eh toles o n t h ed r i l l press, from%-inch usethisjig made plywood pieces andtwosmall of solid stock. Refer to the illustration at left for suggested dimensions. Screw the twosides of thecradle together to form an L. Then cuta 90" angle wedge from each suooort bracket sothatthewide willsit at anangle of side of thecradle about 20" from thevertical. Screw the brackets to thejig base andattach the cradle to thebrackets.


r) Drilling pocket holes in thecradle with I Seatthe workoiece acing the t h es i d e t o b ed r i l l e f d o u ta n d t o ne d p e sittins i n t h eV o f t h ec r a d l e . Bore theholes in twosteps withtwodifferent a Forstner bit slightly larger bits: of thescrew heads, so than thediameter theycanberecessed, anda brad-point b i ta l i t t l e large tr han t h es c r e w shanks In ll toallow f o rw o o d movemen t .s t a t he b r a d - p o ib ni t i n t h ec h u c k a n dp o s i t i o n t h ej i g o nt h ed r i l lp r e stsa b l e s ot h eb i t withthecenter edge alrgns of thebottom (i nsetC ) .l a m p e o f t h ew o r k p i e c t h ej i g bit to thetable andreplace thebrad-point withtheForstner. Holding theworkpiece firmly in thejig,feed thebitslowly to bore justdeep each hole enough to recess the (ilgh|.fo complete screw heads thepockr, einstalltb hr ea d - p o b in i ta n d e th o l e s bore through theworkpiece.



lllllni lllt illjl]lJ l]ll illJ lfllll1 ull llu llllillll]il llllilllllllllll
Cuttinq roaettes on the drill preao Youcan cuI decoralive rosetNee by modifying a drill oreeeflv culter wilh from a a be'adinq biade sawmoldinqhead. Nable NotchNhefly cuNLer arm to accommodat e Nhe bead' inqblade, locaLinq LhecuLNeraboull inch fromlhe endof the arm. Makeeureit fite eecurely in the notcheo il cannolehifLduringuee.borea holethroughthe armand ueeabolN,waeher, and nuNLofashenNhe bladein I,henobchwith i|s flat,lace t owardthe direcNion of cuNt er rot ation,1eI your workpiece on a woodbaeewibhetoV blocke No holdit oecurely. ClamV the oebup to LhedrillVreee Nable, aliqning lhe centerof the fly culter overlhe cenher of lhe slock.Turn on the drilland lower the quilluntil lhe bladeliqhtlyconlacts the you want. wood. Continue cuNlinq unlilLherose|te hasLheprofile

quillstroke Exceeding a drillpress's Themaximum distance thattheouillof sa nb ee x t e n d e a d r i l lp r e sc is dc a l l e d itsstroke. 0n most tools, thisis nomore you than 4 inches. Todrill a deeper hole, may use anextension bitor,if thehole measure andtheworkoiece less than perform twice thequillstroke, theoperationin twostages witha standard bit. i g s o l v ea A s i m p l je sn ya l i g n m e p nr toblems. First, clamp a scrap board to the d r i l lp r e sts able a n db o r e hole. a guide Then, clamp theworkpiece to theboard i n t oi t a sd e e p la a n db o r e yst h eq u i l l stroke willallow. Remove theworkpiece, f i t a d o w ei ln t o t h eg u i d e h o l es ,lip the workpiece over thedowel, andfinish boringthehole fromtheother side(above). Thedowel willensure thatthetwoholes areperfectly aligned.


to turn athes enable a woodworker anyirregof woodof almost blocks rounded creinto beautiful, ular shape of how Woodturners oftenspeak ations, a chairleg, visual theirart is; theysee mill seem to growfrom bowl,or pepper its visual a spinningblank.Yetdespite "feel" for on element andtheemuhasis judgingthe progresi of a turnedworkon accuracy piece, turning alsodepends measurement. andcareful will helpyou Thejigsin thischapter with precision. Useone turn a workpiece jigsshown 70 and on pages of thesetup 71 to mount a blankproperlyon the if theworkpiece is irregularlathe, even 73)isideal ly shaped. A layoutjig (page outliningthe for quickly andaccurately on a blank, locationof the contours jigs like the diameter while measuring (page73)orbowl depth gauge gauge (page a 77)comein handyfor checking workoiece's dimensions. Tlie lathecanalsobe usedfor purthesandposes otherthanturning;see ing drum (page77) and the jig for 75). routing flutesin columns(page
()FTURNING IIGS A COLTECTION Center-finding jig (pa6e 71) Locateathe center of irre7ularly ohapedworkfor faceplate turninq Diamet'er gauge (paqe 73) Uaedto checkthe diameter ocrewo of a turned workpiece; orovidefine adiubtm ent

Faaeplate-aenteringjig (page 71) For mountinqthe lathe faceplate Lo the center of circular workpiecee

Gouge-sharpeningjig (page 72) Uaedin conjunctionwith a benchqrinder to eharpenLurnin7toola; holdatool, bladeat the properanqlefor qrindinqthe bevelon the cuttin4 edqe

Mo unting h ollowed- out workpieces For on a lathe can be challenging. bud vasebeingsanded the cocobolo at left, a conicalbull-nosetailstock waspositionedbetweenthe lathe's metal tailstockand the workpiece, allowing the vaseto be supported snuglywithout dantage.

Layout jig (page 75) Uaedto tranafer layout lineafrom a patblank tern to a f,urnrnq




Tailetock for hollowedout work (paqe 74) Conicalwoodentailatock placed betweenmetal tailetock of lathe and workpieceto 6uppor, openmouth workfor final turnina and finiahina

1anding drum (page 77) For amoothingcontoured work;aandpaper ie held in place by a hardwood etrip acrewedinto -a a 1roove rou'ea in the drum blank

Column fluter (pa6e 75) Uaedto rout flutea in turned columna; columnblankia mountedon lathe while jig elideealonq the lathe bed and 4uidee router

Bowl depth gauge (page 77) Uaedto determine the depth of a bowldurinqturnin7

tlll tll] llll lllr tllllll tlll fitt tlll ll11 llll llll tllllll llll illl ltll tllj
Centering a epindle blank FindinqLh ce enNe orf a b l a n k for epindle turninqie tradiNionally doneby markinq Nwo diagonal linesfrom cornerlo corneron eitherend of Nhe workpiece. )till, for bolh eafetyand accuracy,iNie a aoodideat o double-check lhe localion of the center. With lhe lathe swilchedof*, pooilionLhetool resLclooeto the blankparallel to oneol ite corners. KoIaIe the blankby hand,The qap belween LheNoolreet and the blankshouldbe the eameat eachcorner; adjuol lhe poeibion of the LoolreeI, if neceoeary. Ae an addiLional placea pencil check, ewiLch on the laLhe, on Nhe Ioot resL, and ecribe a circle on the endof the opinninq blank, as ehown. Turn oft the Nool. Thecircleshouldbe centered on Ihe endof the blank; if not, adjuetthe tailslock and repeat,



ona workpiece Centering thefaceplate your lathe's faceplate ona cirTocenter jig shown workpiece, use thehandy cular piece of wood to Turn a cylindrical at right. threaded of thefaceplate's thediameter (You may hole, theendslightly. tapering wish at thetopendof the to forma handle j i g . )D r i v e a n a i li n t ot h ec e n t eo r fthe a, nd t a p e r ee dn d ,c u t o f f t h e n a i l h e a d point. grind Touse thejig,mark a sharp withan awl thecenter of theworkpiece (page onthe 132).Next, setthefaceplate in themidworkoiece withtheawlmark hole, insert thejig in dleof thethreaded forthemark asshown, and"feel" thehole h ej i g i n p l a c e , with t h en a itl i p . H o l d i ntg to theworkpiece. screw thefaceplate


shaped workpiece Attaching thefaceplate to anirregularly youto center thefaceplate on Thejig shown above wrllenable pieces Cut of Ya-inch clear irregularly shaped workpiece. an plywood plastic into12-inch-diameter disks. and %-inch acrylic tapeanda screw. Attach thetwotogether withdouble-sided isfacing out, to your faceplate sotheplastic Mount theassembly conto cut a series of eouallv spaced, thenuse a skew chisel

lefl. Remove theplastic disk rings intothedisk(above, centric peel paint. has dried, the and spray it withblack Once thepaint paper Touse thejig,set offboth srdes oftheplastic. backing iswithin oneof it ontheworkpiece soasmuch of it aspossible righil.Use thecenter withan awl(above, the rings andmark for mounting thefaceplate. themark asa centerpoint


Tool aupport (back)t/z' x 2" x 2 3/+" (bottom) 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 2 3/+"

Guide (top)1/2"x13/+"x9" (eidee)1/2"x15/a"x9"

jig the 1 Making jig shown I The at leftguarantees that gouge thetip of a turning willcontact the grinder wheel of your bench at thecorrect angle to restore thebevel onthecutting edge T , h ed i m e n s i o n in st h ei l l u s t r a t i o n gouges. willaccommodate most Cutthe plywood; base andtheguide from%-inch screw theguide together andfasten it to the base withscrews countersunk f rom underneath. Make sure theopening createdbytheguide is large enough to allow thearm to slide through freely. Cutthearm from1-by-2 stock andthetoolsupport plywood. from7z-inch Screw thetwoparts of thetoolsupport together, thenfasten thebottom to thearm, flush withone end. For theV block, cut a small wood block to size andsawa 90'wedge outof one side. Glue theblock to thetoolsupport.

r) Sharpening a gouge jig on a work L Setthe surface sothearmlines up directly wheel. under thegrinding Seat thegouge handle in theV block andslide thearmsothebeveled edge of thegouge rests flaton gh e e C t h eg r i n d i n w l . l a mt ph ea r mi n p l a c e T. h e nw , ith the

gouge clear of thewheel, switch onthegrinder andreposition the toolin thejig.Holding thegouge withboth hands, rotate it from (above). side to side sothebeveled edge runs across thewheel periodically Check thecutting edge untilthe isfully bevel formed.



a tuning fork, the dismetergauge Resembling to checkthe shownabovecan be usedlike calipers The jig is cut from diameter of turned workpieces. between the armsshouldbe solidwood;thedistance slightly wider than the largest finished diameter to driven into the insideof the be turned. Two screws measuremenls. anns can be adjustedto setprecise

lll llllltll lllllll ilillllllllJ lll lllllllllllt lll llllfirl illr llllillt
jHO? TI?

'v: identical workViecee, a eeNof caliperolo adjuel, yro u n e e d . e a c hf i n i s h e d diameNe to readt h i e w i l le l i m i n a t e L h en e e d jueLoneeeN repeaNedly. Uoeyour deoign of the piece ae a quidelo sel the calipero and a eNripof t ape lo identifythe adjuot,ment on eachone.A cheaper altrernaLive ie l i a m e l e rq a u q e a l i k et h a T , t o m a k es e v e r ad ehownin the pholo above,

jig Making and using a layout forspindle turning i gs h o w n T h el a y o uj t above makes it easier to turnmultiple copies of spindle you work such astable legs byallowing to scribe layout lines in exactly thesame your Trace design location onevery blank. lengh ona piece of scrap about thesame asyour blanks and wider than their diameter. Drive a nailinto theedge of thejig where a transitional element at each ooint orf illetof thedesign-such asa bead Snip offthenailheads begins andends. points. andgrind thenails to sharp Once youhave roughed outa cylinder, simply press thejig into thespinnrng blank; the (above), nails willscore thelayout lines



r) Turning hollowed-out work L Mount theworkpiece to a multi-purpose chuck andsecure you thechuck to thelathe. Turn theinside of thework. Once areready to turntheoutside, insert thetapered endof thejig into theopening in thework and, holding theauxiliary tailstock in place, advance themachine's tailstock untilit contacts the jigandholds thejig andwork securely. Tighten thetailstock (above). andfinish theworkpiece Making thetailstock 1 I Tosupport hollowed-out workpieces o nt h el a t h eu , se a na u x i l i a t ra yi l s t o c k like theone shown above, Turned from i gs u p p o rt h h a r d w o otd h,i ss i m p l j e se workpiece at therimonly, androtates preventalong withthelathe's tailstock, i n gv i b r a t i oa nn db u r n i no gf t h ew o r k p i e c eT . om a k e t h ed e v i c e f, i r s tt u r n a cylinde from a blank a b o u4 t inches in length t, h e ns h a p t eh ec o n e w i t ha gouge roughing anduse a skew chisel to smooth thecone andseoarate it from (above). thewaste Thesizeandtaper of thetailstock willvary according to the size anddiameter of theworkpiece; a cone 3%inches wide at thebase witha 60"taper suits most small work.

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?reoervin6 oquare oornere When eoindle lurnina workpi eceo th at, require a eharpdivision beNween lurnedand oquare oecNione, euchas the oquare at the Vommel Lop of a chair leq, wra?a lenqNh of duct or maekinq lape around the blank atthe lraneiNion linebefore turnin4trhecylinder.TheNaVe willhelpreduce learoul and Vrovide a visual quide you should to where oNoV turninqlo preoewe your oquarecornerg.



theiig 1 Building jigshown you at right I With thebox-like flutes i na c o l u mw it is c a nr o u t n hile mounted in thelathe, Cuttheoarts of the jig from%-inch plywood, forthetop, except which ismade from % - i n cc hl e a a r crylic. fo R e f etro t h e i l l u s t r a t i o nrs u g g e s t e d dimension th s; ej i g s h o u l d b el o n g and wide e n o u gth osuppor th t er o u t ea rnd high sothetopjustclears thecolenough bed. umnwhen thejig rests onthelathe are assemOnce thetop,bottom, and sides bled, add twobraces to make thelig more i lg oted rigid. I n s t a la l d o u b l e - b e a rp in fl u t i n g b i ti ny o u r o u t e d r ,r i l l a b i tc l e a r ance hole through thejig top,andscrew plate thetool's base to thejig.Therouter eo dt h eb i tw i l ll i e shoulb d ep o s i t i o n s n hen t h ej i g i s alongsid th eec o l u m w a r eu n p l u g g e d u s e dB . es u r e a l lt o o l s d u r i ns ge t u p .
Dit clearancehole

r) Preparing thecolumn and thelathe Z- Toensure thatthef lutes aresoaced equally around thecolumn, mark cutting lines forthef lutes ontheblank-in this 12 in all.Make example, corresponding marks faceolate reference onthelathe t sc i r c u m f e r e no b yd i v i d i nig cre 3,6 0 ' , i n t ol 2 e q u as l e g m e ns ts p a c e3 d0 ' apart. Mark thelines with a pencil and a (/eff). protractor Setthejig onthe lathe bed. mount thefaceolate onthe lathe sothatoneof the reference marks is position, in the12 o'clock andmount mark thecolumn soa cutting is at the position, 3 o'clock Tighten a handscrew around the lathe drive shaft to prevent it fromrotating andclamp stop blocks to thelathe bed to make sure thatall flutes willbethesame lensth.



r - J A d j u s t h e r o u t e ' sc u t t i n g d e p t hs o t h e b r t i s :lronpd rarrlh lho ? n'e nrk nrrll no m rr , ,: r - k, , .R -,. t.l l.h, o , ,J r g a p an q to n Fc l o nh l n c ki r t r n o n l h er o r r ' l e a" n dn u s h o n t h e s i d eo f t h e i i s t o f e e dt h e b i t i n t ot h e b l a n k , - th es t o c ks Once t r r en i l n t s a r cf l r r q ia p a i n s . lide the jigalong thelathe b e du n t I i t c o n t a c tts h eo t h e r stop - + ^ ^ r-.. ^6^ ^ ; ^ -+ L ^ h l o c kK . een t h en n -u- ^ ,o oil r>l l|c >luun d) it tsi . .l,o . -t s r . -r) c Jg routseachflute (inset). Turnoff the router,remove , dr o t a t e thehandscrew an t h e b l a n kb y h a n du n t r l position n e x t r e f e r e n c m e a ' k i s i ntie l2 o'clock the a n dt h e r e x tr ^ . r t' l rDn l rp r nosi'ion. " e'i s i n l h e3 o c l o c k R e i n s t at lh l ehandscre w a n dr e p e atth eo p e r a t i o tn o ' ' e n a l n r f ( a g cu t t h e bove).

-) Flutine thecolumn <'



Accurately determiningdepth is essential tofnceplate turning:too deepa cut can ruin a bowl.Made from solid wood stock,the bowldepthgaugeshown at right featuresa pair of perpendicular ',4-inchdowels;the holes for the dowelsoverlapso that the longer dowel can be adjustedand wedged in place by the shorter, tapered one.Marking depthincrements on the long dowel will speed setup.


Making and using a sanding drum ur l u m of thegroove. T h ej i g s h o w a n b o vw e i l lt u r ny o u r lathe into a p o w e r fd Tohold thesandpaper in place, make a hard(above, o o v e wood sander S .tart g %-inch-wid b yr o u t i na % e-,i n c h - d eg erp stripto fit in thegroove andscrew it in place along thecenter of oneside of a square blank about 14 inches left). To usethesanding drum, mount it between the headinlength M . o u ntth eb l a n k o nt h el a t h e and t u r ni t i n t o a c y l i n - stock andtailstock of thelathe. You canthenuse thedrum der3%inches in diameter. Next, cuta sheet of sandpaper to to sand workpieces withcurved contours, such asa cabriole wrap around thecylinder; itsends should overlap at thebottom leg (above, right).







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lampsand benchvises areindispeniable to thewoodworker. Their verysimplicitymakes themversatile, but the basicclampor visecanbe madeto work betteror moreeasilv with thehelo of ajig. Theitemsshown'inthischaptei will enable you to getthe mostfrom the clamps andvises youalready have. Other jigs providealternatives to commercial devices that maynot bethebesttool for a specific task. Gluingboards edgeto-edge to assemblepanels is a commonstep in furnituremaking. Thejigsshown starting on page 8l provideways of keeping your clamping setups flat, square, and stable asthe adhesive dries. Thewall-mounted glue rack (page 85) can saveconsiderable shopspace, whilethewedged clamping bar (page 83)andthejig for edge gluing thin stock (page Ba)will takethe place of bar clamps. For securing stockto your workbenchfor sanding or planing,makea temporarybench stop (page90).To fashion a handywood-carver's vise, try thejig on page93 thatcombines a standardpipeclampwith two woodblocks. All thedevices in thischapter aresimple to build with only a fewmaterials. The dividends theywill payarewell worth the effort and expense.


Caroaae-aqua ri ng block (pase 89) Flaced on corner of carcase to keep it sauare duringqlue-up

Miter clamping blocka (paqe 88) Ueed with handacrewato clamp mitered cornerg toqether; two blockaat each corner are aecured to atock with cord

Bench dog (page 92) Hardwooddog alipo into benchdoq holee; anqledton7ueacte aa a opringto hold dog in place

Eench etop (page 9O) For eecurinaatock to a work aurtace without.benchdo4 holea.Workpiece ie wed4ed betweentrianqular piece and baae, whichia clamped to table

Made of wood fromjust afewpieces andsome hardware, theframing clampat left allows you to keepthe corners of a picture and framesquare tightlyclosed duringglue-up.

Benah dog (page 91) Cuatomizeddoqa with naile in center of bevelled head for grippinqa curvedor turned workpiece



Pipe clamp extender (pa6e 86) capaciLy of ExLende the clampinq jtq cleat huqa workptpeclampe; piece whileaemicircularnotch accommodatesclamp iaw

Wall-mounted glue raak (page O5) For ed4eqluinqeLock. Dar clampoait in notched ba ck c roeepi ece c rooepiecee: ia anchoredto walletuda

Crosebar for edge gluing (page 82) Ueedwith bar or pipe dampa f,o keepatock flat durinqed6egluinq;panel fita betweencrooabara,whrch are securedwith wingnuLe Glue rack (page 81) 9awhoraeawith notchedcroeaptecee to hold bar clampaeteady deeigned for edqeqluin7

Wood-aaruer'svise (pase 93) vteefor holdTwo-parD tng carvrnqblanks;made from wood blocksand pipe clampe.Dof,tompipe clampie mounted to benchand Loppart ia elippedtn place

Wedqedclamping bar (page 83) 9imtlar to edqe 7luin7 croaabar, excepLwed4ee preeaedqee of boarde togeLher,taktnq the placeof clampe Framing clamp (page O7) Ueedwtth a handacrew Lo alue uo frames wiLhmitered -cornere: modelahowncan clamp framee up Lo 24 rncneo aquare

thin atoak Ji6 for clamping (paseO4) thin boarda; Foredqegluing

wedqee apply the clamp'
in6 0reogure

theiig 1 Building I A pairof racks made fromtwosawprovides horses like theone shown at right a convenient way to hold barclamps for gluing upa panel. Remove thecrosspiece your from sawhorses andcutreplacements thesame width andthickness astheorigi n a l sm , a k i ntg hem a t l e a sa t sl o n g as t h eb o a r dy so uw i l lb ea s s e m b l i n Cg u.t notches along oneedge of each crosspiece at6-inch i n t e r v a lm s, a k i ntg hem wide enough to hold a barclamp snugly anddeep enough to holdthe barlevel withthetopof thecrosspiece. Youcan also cut notches to accommodate oioe clamps, butit is better to usebarclamps withthisjig since they willnotrotate.

r) Gluing upa panel justenough (above), L Seatat least twobarclamps in thenotches sothattheboardstheclamps to butttheboards together to beglued aresupported every 24 to 36 inches. Toavoid mar- thenplace a thirdclamp across thetopof theboards, centeryoutighten ring theedges of thepanel when theclamps, use ingit between theothers. Finish tightening allthe clamps until pads twowood thatextend thefull length of theboards. Setthe there arenogaps between theboards anda thinbead of adheboards face-down ontheclamps andalign their ends. Tighten sive squeezes from thejoints.





thecrossbars 1 Building panels frombowing during I To keep pressure glue-up isapplied, when clamping like theone shown bolta oair of crossbars pair Make of clamps. at leftbetween each wood fromtwoshort spaccrossbar each of 1-by-1 hardwood ersandtwostrips longer thanthe pana fewinches stock beslightThespacers should el'swidth. of thebolts lythicker than thediameter Glue in place. used to hold thecrossbars theends of thestrips, thespacers between to prewaxon thecrossbars andspread glue fromadhering to them. vent excess

thecrossbars O Installing 81).fo on a rack(page L Glue up the boards asyouwould place prevent theendof fromtipping over, the barclamps Before the barclamps block of wood. each onein a notched centerin pairs, fully install thecrossbars have been tightened,

in place. Insert carriage theclamps already ingthembetween washers andwingnuts slots, using bolts through thecrossbar (above). Then, tighten the panel thejig snug against to tighten completely. thebarclamps




B u i l d i ntg h el i g b o d y 1 I T h ew e d g e d clamping b a rs h o w n at leftis an excellen a tl t e r n a t i v te o a bar gluing c l a m pf o r e d g e boards b, e c a u s e i t p r e v e n tts h e s t o c kf r o m b o w i n g when p r e s s u r ie s a p p l i e dC . u tt h e t o p a n d b o t t o m f r o m% - i n c h - t h i cs kt o c k , making p a n ey l ou t h e m l o n g e trh a nt h e w i d e s t w i l l g l u eu p . C u tt h e s p a c e r t. a i lb l o c k . andwedges f r o m s t o c kt h e s a m et h i c k .Keep n e s sa s t h e b o a r d t so b e g l u e d ( setsof spacers, tail blocks, andwedges on handto accommodate boards of varyi n gt h i c k n e s sU . )s ea m a c h i n e bolt, washe r ,a n dw i n gn u t a t e a c he n do f t h e j i g to secure t h e t o p , b o t t o ma , n ds p a c e r s together. Waxthe barsto prevent adhesive f r o mb o n d i n t g othem.

r) Preparin tg h ej i g f o r g l u e u p y o u n e e dt o b o r eh o l e s l through t h e j i g t o a d j u s ti t f o r . ince y o uw i l l b e d r i l l i n g t h ew i d t h o f t h e p a n etlo b e g l u e d S s t r a i g htth r o u g h t h e j i g , c l a m pa b a c k u p board t o y o u rd r i l l press t a b l ew i t h a f e n c ea l o n g t h e b a c ke d g e to ensure the holes a r ea l i g n e dI.n s t a l a l b i t t h e s a m ed i a m e t ea r sthe . u t tt h e j i g machine b o l ta n d p l a c e t h e t a i l b l o c ki n p l a c e B agains tt h ef e n c e a n dd r i l la h o l e through t h et o p ,t h e b o t t o m , a n dt h e t a i l b l o c k . Bore go l e s t h e r e m a i n i nh through t h ej i g (above), bodyat 7r/z-inch intervals

gluing Edge boards

Spread a d h e s i vo en t h e e d g e s o f y o u rs t o c ka n d s e tt h e boards f a c e - d o wo nn a w o r ks u r f a c eS . l i pa c l a m p i n g b a ro v e r theboards a n dp o s i t i o n it 6 to 12 inches f r o mo n ee n do f t h e assembly. Butt the tail blockagainst the far edgeof the boards, usingthe m a c h i nb eo l t , washer a,n dw i n gn u tt o f i x i t i n p l a c e . pressure, To apply clamping tap oneof the wedges at the front edgeof the panel(above) until thereare no gapsbetween the boards a n da t h i n g l u eb e a ds q u e e z e su t o f t h e j o i n t s .I n s t a l l o thebars a t 1 8 - t o 2 4 - i n c hi n t e r v a l s .




gluing thinstock Edge jig shown you allows at right Thebenchtop pressure for clamping thecorrect to apply from gluing Cutthebase thinstock. edge pieces plywood and theremaining 1-inch to theillustration Refer stock. fromsolid the butbesure dimensions, forsuggested to beglued thantheboards is longer base o butt e n o u gth slong a n dt h es p a c eir of thepanel. front edge theentire against than bethicker strips should Theedging the yourpanel themalong stock. Screw twowedges andfasten of the base edges withtheirangled onestrip against f lush Wax thetop at right. facing asshown edges from to keep the panel faceof the base glue stock toyour tg o i t .A p p l y adherin s n t h eb a s eb , utting a n ds e tt h ep i e c eo th gt r i p agains t ee d g i n s t h ef i r s tb o a r d Buttthe spacer the wedges. opposite thetwo andslide the lastboard against andthe thespacer between loose wedges tightto Tapthe wedges fixedwedges. (below). pressure clamping apply


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u pa p a n e l B u i l d i ntg h er a c ka n dg l u i n g y o u t o g l u eu p p a n e l s u s i n gb a r allows T h el r g s h o w n above bybeing m o u n t et do a w a l l .F o r c l a m p sb , u t s a v e s h o ps p a c e r a c k sb , ut sn hows o n l yo n ep a i ro f c l a m p c l a r i t yt,h e i l l u s t r a t i o y o u y o uc a ni n s t a la l i k ef r o mf l o o r to ceiling at 12-inch l sm a n y as f r o mB - f o o t - l o n 1g - b y - 4a s n ds a w intervals C.u tt h e c l a m pr a c k s asyouwould for a sawhorse notches along oneedge of eachpiece r a c k( p a g e o n er a c ko f e a c hp a i r t ot h e w a l l ,d r i v i n g Bl). Attach arepointintoevery wallstud;makesurethe notches two screws ng c u t f l o o r - t o - c e i l i2 i n gd o w n T . o s u p p o rtth e f r o n tc l a m pr a c k , n n ed i r e c t l f ya c i n g e a c hs t u da b o u t by-4s asposts a n dp o s i t i o o

posts, the frontrackto these fromthe wall.Screw 8 to 10 inches positionin g w i l l h o l d t h e c l a mps n o t c h e f s a c e u p s o t h e y the p l y w o o d p a n e l s f i t a r ound m o u n t % i n c h e n d t o l e v e lN . ext, wo j i g . p a n e l s f i t o v e r t h e s ole N o t c h b o t t o m e n d o f t h e t o the the plate the f a s t e n t o t h e c e i l i n g D . r i v e s c r e w t s h r o u g h and t h et o p p a n e l s r a c k s T . o u s e t he i n t o t h e e n d s o f t h e sides of theend j i g t o g l u eu p a p a n e ls , l i d eb a rc l a m p s n through t h e n o t c h e is r a c k s m , a k i n g s u r e t h e e n d s o f t h e c l a m p s t h e f r o n ta n d b a c k (rnset). rack The rest of the beyond the stud-mounted extend gluing w i t ha n yo t h e r c l a m pr a c k . s identica to l edge o p e r a t i oin


Gluing upa large frame T h ej i g s h o w n above w i l le x t e n t dh e pipe capacit oy fyour clamps C . u tt h e mainbody of theextender from1-by-6 andthecleat from a 2-by-2. Saw stock near oneendof the a D-shaped cutout body to accommodate thepipe clamp tail to theopposite stop, thenscrew thecleat pressure Toapply end(inset). clamping rails ofa long o n t h et o pa n db o t t o m frame like theonein theillustration, set thecleat against oneendof theworkpiece a n df i t t h ep i p e clamp t a i ls t o p into thecutout. Then tighten theclamp ja dwi s p r e s s i n g s ot h a tt h e h a n d l e - e n against theopposite endof thework(above). piece pads to protect Usewood theworkpieces.

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Ooubling up pipeclampo Anotherway lo exlendlhe capaci|yof 1norter ?t?e u s e l h e mi n
naira l n lt tnr -


lion as a oinqle

lonq one,)et,upLhe (herefour workViece boards to be edqeqlued)ae you wouldon a 4luerack (pa4e B1).To fashion a lonqclamV, ?oeition worklwo ehofLer clampeacroasNhe jawe reet,aqainet. eo NhaN the handle-end oVVoeile piece Aeyou edgee andNhetaileNoVe ofNheclamVo overlap. iNwillpullthe joinXe Liqhhen oneof the clampe, Noqebher.


picture frame Clamping a mitered witha handscrew, theselfIn conjunction i g a t l e f ti s i d e aflo rg l u i n g up a l i g n i njg Thedimenframes withmitered corners. ill sions uggeste in d t h ei l l u s t r a t i w on frames measuring upIo 24 accommodate inches ona side. Cut thearms andcenter from1-by-3 stock andthecorner blocks plywood. Drill a series blocks from3/q-inch for of holes down themiddle of thearms begin machine bolts; %-inch-diameter 1 inch from one endandsoace theholes i n t e r v a lc so , unterbori tn hg e at 1-inch Also to house the boltheads. underside blocks 1 inch drillholes through thecenter thecorner fromeach end.To DreDare blocks, drilltwoholes through each one: 1 inch thefirstfora machine boltabout hole about fromone end, anda smaller 1% inches in from thesame end.Finish a 90'wedge outof theopposite bycutting theapex of theangle at the end,locating (inset). hole drilled center of thesecond onecenter Assemble thejig bysecuring pair withbolts, washblock to each of arms nuts; leave thenutsloose ers, andwing .o e n o u gth o allow t h ea r m s t o p i v o tT clamp a frame, setthejig on a work surface. Fasten thecorner blocks to thearms blocks areabout %inch sothatthecenter when lies snugly within the apart theframe j i g .U s e to wp u l lt h ec e n t e r a handscre theclamp until blocks together, tightening (/eft, joints below), allthecorner areclosed

Corner block

Center block 3,/+"x21/2"x6"

Corner block






Gluing upa mitered frame Clamp mitered corners using handscrews a n dt h es p e c i a llockshown b above. You willneed one clamp and twoblocks f o re a c h corner . u tt h e b l o c k f C sr o m stock thesame thickness asyour workpiece. Referring to theillustration above, shape one edge sothere is a 45" bearing surface forthehandscrew near one end, anda small V-shaped notch near theothe r .T os l r e u n A c o r n e t r i e t h eb l o c k s
snrrpl tv o theedpcs n f i h e f r a m ew i t h cord, s e c u r i ntg h e l o o s e n di n t h e n o t c h . S e t t h e j a w so f t h e h a n d s c r e w against the 45" angles andtightenthem (above) u n t i lt h e r ea r en o g a p si n t h e j o i n ta n d a t h i n b e a do f g l u es q u e e z e su t o f i t . o T o k e e pt h e j o i n ts q u a r et.i g h t e n each h a n d s c r ea wl i t t l ea t a t i m e ,c h e c k i n g t h e c o r n ew r i t ha s q u a r e .

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ii. -i A rope clamp for aarving I Carvinq often requiree fre- I I ] ..... quentrepooitioninqofthe I j I workpiece, whichcan be l,l l Lime-consumin7when . jl, ueinq holddowns, clampe, \*r
and bench VakeLhe doqe. taek of eecurinq carvinq eLock moreconvenient by ueinq a eimple ropeclamplike Lheoneehown here.1ore lour holes throuqh Ihe middle of a lowcarvinq bench, Then cut a lenqth of rope looV or lealher, it throuqhNhe holee and tie Nhe endst ogether, Theropeehould be lonqenouqh eo Lhat the boLLom endof Ihe loopie no moreIhan 12 inchee from lhe floor. Slipyour workpiece under lhe loopo on the tabletopand eNeV on the botrtom looV NoholdIhe oLock firmly in place.

1HO? Tl7


Carcaae-squaring block

square Keeping a carcase square thefoursides of a carcase It canbedifficult to keep paneA l. carcaseprw h i l e installin ag back d u r i n g l u e - uo placed willsolve theproblem. block oneach corner squaring plywood. of %-inch Each block consists of an 8-inch square glue frombonding theblock to the squeeze-out To prevent hole in thecenter of each bore a 2-inch-diameter carcase, Next, install a dado witha hole sawor circle cutter. block

width asthe table saw, adjust it to thesame head onyour at right stock, andcut twogrooves thickness of thecarcase intersecting at thecenter of the block angles to oneanother, (above, glueandassemble thecarlefil.f o use thejig,apply (above, right), centercase, thenfit a block over each corner join. where Install and ingthehole at thepoint thetwopanels theclamps. tighten



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Wood block

upsmall carcases Gluing a d sU . se rd C c l a m pts o pullthe or C t h ec o r n e rw si t hc a r d b o a p webclamos outof rooe anda handscrew Youcanmake joints (above, lefil.A each other and clamp the two lengths of blocks toward uses twowood blocks and clamps. 0nedevice perimeter Wrap method employs a single handscrew. a second clamping knotted, areslightly shorter thanthe rope that,when your rope the carcase and feed the ends through the near the length of around Bore twoholes through each block of carcase. pressing therope against With thetip of thehandscrew through a hole rneach block andknot clamp. ends, thread onerope pinch to the rope between the carcase, tighten the back screw Repeat withtheother rope, adjusting itsends against theblock. endof thejaws theback endof thejaws, thenclose thefront areparallel when setonthecarthelength sothattheblocks (above, pressure protecting right). clamping thecarcase, to apply case. Wrap theropes andblocks around



Youcan increase the reachof a C clampwhenyou needto apply pressure clamping away from the edges of a worksurface by using a strip of woodasa clampextension. Tosecure theframeshown at right, thestrip extends across theframe pressure and clamping is applied overtheinteriorof theframe, securing bothsides at once.


Securing a workpiece to a work surface You plywood canusea clamped-on bench stop cutfrom%-inch to secure stock to a work surface. Cutthe bench stop to size, thenmark outa triangular wedge, typically 3 inches shorter than thestop. Saw outthe wedge andsetit aside. Touse thebench stop, clamp it to thework surface andslide theworkpiece into the (above). notch, butting one side against thestraight edge of thenotch. Then tapthewedge tightly in place




Making andsetting up carving dogs Using a standarb dench d o ga s a m o d e l , youcanfashion a pairof customized dogs g r i p t h a tw i l l a carved orturned workpiece, or secure irregular-sized work, such asmitered m o l d i n gT . o m a k et h e s e accessories, cut bevels on eithersideof t h e h e a do f a s t a n d a r d bench d o ga n d d r i v ea s m a l ls c r e w o r n a i l i n t ot h e c e n ter of the head; s n i po f f t h e f a s t e n e r ' s h e a dt o f o r ma s h a r oo o i n t . T o u s et h e d e v i c e sp , lace o n ed o gi n a d o gh o l eo f the bench's fixeddogblock andthe other i n t h et a i lv i s eo r a s l i d i n g d o gb l o c k hole ( a b o v e )T . ighten t h e v i s es c r e wu n t i l thepoints c o n t a ct h e e n d so f t h e w o r k piece a n d h o l di t s e c u r e l y .

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Carvinqgcrewo A Vairof han4er boltecanenableyou Nogecure an ircequ' lar-ehaVed workViece, suchas a carvinq yourbench. block,to ThebolNs feature woodecrewNhreade on oneenaana machine screw lhreadeon the oLher. fo securea workpiece, boreNwoholee Nhrough lhe bench-lop for Nhebolte.Screw Nhe bolls inLo Ihe carvinq block from underneaNh Nhe top and holdLheboltsto the undereide of the loV wilh washere and winqnuLe.




Making a bench dogwitha wooden tongue B e n c hd o g sc a n b e c r a f t e d f r o mh a r d w o o ds t o c k ; above uses t h e o n es h o w n wooden tongue a sa s p r i n g anangled sg a i n stth e w a l lo f t h e d o g t h a t p r e s s ea h o l et o k e e n t h e d o si n o o s i t i o n . u tt h e C inyour workbench, d o gt o f i t t h e h o l e s f r o mt h e m i d d l e t h e nc h i s eo l u ta n o t c h o f t h e d o g .S a wa s h o r tk e r fi n t h e l o w e r c o r n eo r f t h e n o t c ha , ngling t h ec u t s o w i l l e x t e n d b e y o nd t h ee d g e t h et o n g u e n o t c h . f r of the C u tt h e t o n g u e o mh a r d wood. making it about a s l o n ga s t h e notcha , s w i d ea s t h e d o g ,a n da st h i c k in thekerf. a s t h e k e r f .G l u et h e t o n g u e

trct lnve a bettch vise,yott cnrt itrtproIf yow' workbench tloes vises substituteusirtg reodilyovnilableshoprrcccs-soric-s. nrrartged ns showrrnbovewill holtl Two largehartrlscrews of the work sttr.face. n board upright at tlte corrrer-

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Grippingthinstoak a Ihin workpiece on Securing ed,qe rcuallyrequires v i s eo r b e n c h doqs. can < \-i

faelton abench

' "l a L o Vl i k eL h e o n e \ - - shown on ?aqe 90 No a c c o n V l i e iih he task.ln ",,ti.Lhis case, make Nheetop fr,om - ' -ft'ji" r' , _ L h i c k e re t o c k - a b o u N 2 i n c h e sN h i c k -Lo qet a bef,Leq r r i Vo n r h e w o r V p i e c e t h e w e d q ec l o s e rt o L h e m i d d l e and locatre o f N h ee l o p . C l a m pI h e 1 i qr , o I h e b e n c h t o p ,

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Making t h ej i g 1 I T o h o l dc a r v i n s blanks a n dc u r v e d yn ya n g l e u , s ea n workpiece as t v i r t u a t ta viselikethe oneshown at right. adjustable Attached t o t h e e n d o f y o u rw o r k b e n c h , pe a d s , t h e j i g c o n s i s to s f t w o p i p e - c l a mh two lengths o f p i p e ,a n d t w o p i v o t i n g b l o c k sT . h e u p p e rb l o c kg r i p st h e w o r k h o r i z o n t a l lw yh , i l et h e l o w e r a n ds w i v e l s b l o c ki n p l a c e and b l o c kh o l d s theupper yr o u n d t h e p i p e .F a s h i o n r o t a t ev s e r t i c a l la f r o m l a m i n a t eh da r d w o o d t h et w ob l o c k s orsugstock, r e f e r r i ntg o t h e i l l u s t r a t i ofn gested B.o r e dimensions a 1-inch-diameblock's underside t e r h o l ei n t h e u p p e r dg o w e lr ,e i n f o r c e d a n dg l u ei n a 2 - i n c h - l o n hole w i t ha w o o d s c r e wB . o r ea m a t c h i n g through t h e l o w e rb l o c ka n d c u t a k e r f rounded to the through the block's edge hole.Next, bore a holeintothe end of your w o r k b e n cn he a r o n ec o r n e rl,a r g e enough a 1 2 t o 1 4 i n c h length to accommodale p i p e . D r i l l m a t c h i n g h o l e t h r o ugh the of a p o s i t i o n i n g i t n e a r r o u ndlower block, the F i n a l l y , a h o le ed edge oftheblock. bore p i p e forthe through theupper block. Upperblock 3"x3"x3%"

Lowerblock 3"x3"x4"

r) Securing a workpiece pipe witha pipe-clamp head L lnsert-the 12-to l4-inch-long at one endthrough pinin place witha locking block andinto thebench. Fixthepipe thebottom a small machine bolt or large wood screw. Fittheupper block rnto thelower one pipe-clamp head to secure theupper block. Next, insert a andtighten thelower longer length witha pipe-clamp head at one endandholes drilled of pipe-also pin-through 4 inches fora locking thehole in theupper block. Place the every andthepipe-clamp's head asshown below, workpiece against theupper block pin,andtighten fixthepipe withthelocking thehead. Toreposition theworkpivot piece, loosen clamp head, thetwoblocks, andtrghten thehead. thelower


/ "

anding is one of woodworking's most tedioustasks. but thereare tools and techniques to makethe job easier andimprove your results. Theuse of a simplejig will help improvethe speed andefficiency of mostoperations, and maketricky taskseasier to accomplish.Several areshownhereandon the loilowingpages. A custom-made sanding block (page100), for example, allows you to smoothcontours thatwouldotherwise be difficult to reach. For sanding the edge of circularworkpieces, a circlejig (page sanding 96)is designed to hold a belt sander on its sidewhile you feed the stockacross the belt.Also usefulis a jig for surfacingthin stock (page99) on the radialarm saw. For everyday sanding tasks, usethe auxiliarysanding tableshownon page 98 or the sanding blockon page100. Thelatterdevice, alsoshownin thephoto at left, offersa simplewayof holding a pieceof sandpaper in placeagainst a flat surface. To save time andsandoaper,consider the tipson gangsanding andfoldingsandpaper shownon pages 96and101.
Auxiliary aanding table (pase 9B) Secured to drill preaa table for aandinq oper atib ne; feat uree clearanceholefor aandinadrum

Contoured aandin7 bloak

(pase too)
Cuetom-profiledaandin4 ourface for smoothinq moldin4a

Radial-arm-saw sanding jiq (pase 99) For eandtnqthin atock on the radial arm saw;clearance holeaizedto accommodate aandinadrum

Circle-eandingjig (page 96) Holda belt eander etationary on ite aide for aandina the edqe of circular atock

Fittedwith 220-gritsandpaper, a shop-made sanding block is used to smooththesurface of therail joining two tablelegs. A felt or corkpad can begluedto thebottom faceof theblock pressure. toprovideeven sanding

AND EDGE-SANDING IIGSFORFACE,Youcan savetime nnd lchieve uniform results by sntoothing severalworkpieces together, a "gang technique known as sanding." If theyare thesame width, the boardscan lte secured to a work surface faceto-faceand edge-up,and sandedas though they were a singleworkpiece.

jig the 1 Building youto I Thejig shown at right allows workpiece theedges of a circular smooth Thedimensions of the witha beltsander. jigwilldepend of your sander. onthesize plywith%-inch Make thebase andtable posts wood to wood andaddsolid support fit in thehandles of thesander. Setthetool on itsside onthetable andsliptheposts in place, then screw them to thetable and to thebase. Cutthepivot screw thetable from1-by-2 stock, barandsupport boards longer making theboards than thediameter of your workpiece andthebarlonger than theboards. Screw thesupport boards to the near base sothey willsupport theworkpiece itsedge. Next, drive a screw through the it to the middle of theoivot barandfasten Flip theassemunderside of theworkpiece. bar blyover andscrew oneendof thepivot midway to thebase between thesupport loose boards, leaving thescrew enough to youto pivot allow thebar's other end.



Sanding a circular workpiece Clamp thejig base to a work surface andsetthesander in place onthetable, fitting thetool's handles over thesupport posts. Turn onthesander and,if necessary, adjust thetool's tracking mechanism to move thebeltdown to thejig table. Lock the On/off in theon trigger andmove oosition thefreeendof the pivot bartoward thesander untilthe workpiece edge touches thebelt. Clamp thefree endof thebarto thebase, then rotate thepiece against thedirection of (above) beltrotation untiltheedge is smooth. Keep theworkpiece in motion l lh y i f tt h e p i v o a t rm a n dp e r i o d i c a s toward thesander to maintain Dressure against thesanding belt.

illlfil lllt l{tIlll'IIl tlll lIlfllltll lltlllilll illl tlll tlll illt llll
Drillpreseaanaing druma
lf you needa epecial off-sizeoandinq you can drum for your drill ?rees, makeyour ownfrom a dowel. Find Ihe riqhl sizedowel,lhencut a elrip of oandpaper ae lonqae iNe circumference. Apply a Nhin coa| of qlueto the woodand faelen lhe ?a?erIo ft (ri7ht, top). For a flexible eanderIhal can smooth irce4ularly ehaped workViecee or enlarqeholee, cut a elot in a dowel and eliVa etrip of abraeiveVaperinlo it (ri6hifr, bottom).


Holefor aandinqdrum 3'/a"dtameter

Jiq baoe 1%"x1%"x11" ' / ox " 2 % "x 1 1 "

thejig 1 Making larger in diameter are toolarge I Sanding drums than %inch Tomake full in most drillpress tables. to fit through thehole build a table like the surface of larger drums, use of thesanding above. Use a coping saw, a saber saw, or anelectric oneshown

in theplywood top,cenwitha hole saw to cuta hole drillfitted 3 inches from theback of thetable. Screw tering theopening pieces together from1-by-3 and2-by-2 stock the L-shaped base (above, right), them to thetable. thenglue

r) Sanding curved stock to thedrillpress Z Clu^p thejig base underneath the table with thehole directly h e i g htto b r i n g drumA . d j u stth et a b l e level the bottom of thesanding sleeve f irmly, with thejig.Holding theworkpiece in a direction feed it at a uniform speed therotation of thesanding drum opposite (right). Toavoid burning or gouging the workpiece, feedit witha smooth, continmotion. Assegments of thesanding uous table sleeve wear out,rarse thedrillpress to brins a fresh surface to bear.




thetable 1l Buildins jig shown I Thesimple at right willenyouto sand radial able thinstock onyour from armsaw. Cutthetable andfence l - i n c hp l y w o o d s i,z i n g t h e p i e c ets o fi t your saw. Cuta slotoutof oneedge ofthe large table enough to accommodate the youwilluseandallow you sanding drum to shift thedrum forward andback fordifferent sized stock. Rout a %-inch-wide groove along leavthelength of thefence, ing% inchof stock below thechannel to fence Insert slipinto thesaw table's slot. t h es l o t t e d edge o f t h et a b l ei n t ot h e groove in thefence andscrew thetwo
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r') Smoothing thinstock I lnstall a sanding drumin your following saw themanufacjig instructions. fence turer's Slipthe between thefront and positioning rear tables of thesaw, theopening in thebase directly below thedrum, then tighten thetable clamps to secure the jig in place. Lower thedrum soit isjustbelow thetopof thejig position table; thedrum sothedistance between it andthejig you fence is slightly less than thethickness of thestock willbe

sanding. Turn onthesaw andfeed thestock slowly andcontinuously fromleftto right-against therotation of thedrum -between (Clamping thefence andsanding drum(above). jig press a featherboard to the table to thestock against the prevent gouging.) fence help canalso For each successive pass, reduce thegapbetween thefence andsanding drum bynomore thanXeinch.



Making theblock youcan Lay while of plastic wrap over thebox and, the of molding, a single thickness I For smoothing thecontours of a piece press sample inloiI (above, left) that filleris stillsoft, themolding sample of themolding to shape a sanding block use a short perfectly it firmly in place. Letthefiller harden, then remove Fashioningandclamp withthesurface of theworkpiece. mates from t h ee n d s . rubber to make a t h em o l d i ns ga m p lfe rom t h eb o x a n dt h en a i l s requires auto body filler ormodeling theblock a piece of sandpaper saw off both ends of thebox. Stretch Start bynailing together a small box slightly Now mold of theprofile. themoldupacross themolded side of thebox. Use molding andat least %inch deeper than abrasive-side larger than thesample part filler, to press thepaper against thehardened then Prepare thefiller following the ingsample thethickest of themolding. of thebox(above, right). halfthebox withit. staple theends to thesides manufacturer's instructions andf ill about


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5andingbloak CUN a woodblockLhatyou can qrip comforLably. 0n ile Nooface. saw Nwonarrow grborruand cultwo wedgeehaVed woodeNriVe to fit in the qapo enuqly.To evenoanding Vrovide ?reosure, you can qluea felLor cork ?ad to Ihe bo|tom, aroundtheblock, WraV a Viece of oandpaper then t ap in ineerllhe endsinto the qroovee, wed7eo to holdlhe VaVer in place. Nhe



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Foldinqaandpaper Toqetthe moetlrom a sheet, of oandpaper, eurtace of rhe abrasive ueeonlyone-quarNer into quariere,lear al a lime. FoldNheViece and then the sheethalfway alonqonefold line, oandinq fold it inboa four-Vly pad eo LhaN surfaces are in con' no lwo of the abrasive the first surlaceweareouN, tacL.When refoldNheeheet, Noex?o6e

r) Smoothing themolding I Clamp theworkpiece to a table, padto protect thestock. using a wood alons Slide theblock back andforth (above). themolding

anunueed Vly.




will allow hejigsin thischapter power portable youto transform
machines toolsinto smallstationary workpieces on your and handlelarge The powertoolsmoreeasily. stationary for example, standshownon page105, joinerinto a stationary a plate converts cutter, a moreconvenient biscuit-slot The router setupfor someoperations. for some tableon page106is essential fence and cuts.Featuring an adjustable it allowsyou a storage compartment, to setup your routerasa mini-shaper. router In a smallshop,a removable to a tablesaw tablecan be attached (page 107). Thethree-in-one tool table your shownon page108can convert drill into router. saber sawandelectric stationary tools. Extension tablesand roller stands greatly expand theversatility of toolslike pages See and drill presses. band saws the I 10 and I I I for jigs that enhance ofthesetoolsto handlelarge capacity feaAll theaccessories workpieces safely. canbe customtured in this chapter at a fractionof madeto suityour needs, versions. thecostof commercial

Secured to a bandsawtable,theplytable at left morethan woodextension surface doubles theoriginal table's area, allowingbetter controlovera cut-especiallywith longstock.



Drill presa extension table (paqe 111) Attached to drill preea to extend oriqinaltable Removablepower tool table (paqe lOB) Holds router, aaber saw, or electric drill upaide-down for atatonary work;attached Lo workbench wtth winqnuta for eaayinetallationand removal

Vise extension atand (page 112) suPPorcaffee end of lon4 board clamped in workbench ahouldervise

Adjuatable roller etand (pase 113) 1et juat belowaaw table levelon the outfeed aide to aupporL lonq or wideworkpieceo aa they are cut


Eand aaw exteneion table (page 11O) Fastened to band aawtable Lo increaae aurfacearea


Barreleupport(top) 1%"x3'tr"x6"

Auxiliarytable 7" x 12"

Handleeuppor, 3'/r" x 12"

Darrel oupport (bof,tom) 1%"x5%"x6"

thejig 1 Building joiner, above willreduce the theligshown I Paired witha plate in a series of workforbiscuits timeneeded to cutslots setup plywood, pieces. forthebarrel except Build thejigfrom%-inch for wood. Refer to theillustration which should besolid support, and support to thebase dimensions. Screw thehandle suggested With them to fit your tool. brackets, spacing attach thehandle joiner butt onthehandle support, resting upside-down theplate its housing andoutline against themotor thebarrel support

andcutthesupBore a hole forthebarrel shape onthestock. port of thehole. Screw itswidth, through thecenter in twoacross part holes halfontop.Bore to thebase andfit theother thebottom side of theopening, then bolts through thetoponeach forhanger wing nuts to Use into thebottom of thesupport. drive thebolts screw theauxiliary table to together. Finally, hold thetwohalves (lt maybenecessary to drillholes f ixed-angle fence. thejoiner's forthescrews.) in thefence

r) cutting theslots in thestand 4 Secure theplate loiner to a work surface. andclamp thejig base height and, Setthefence at thecorrect forrepeat cuts, clamp stop blocks to the in table to center theworkpiece auxiliary front For each cut,putthe of thecutter. f latonthetable andbutted workpiece faceplate, thenturn against thejoiner's thestock andthe onthetoolandpush tableintotheblade //eft)


thetable 1 Assembling plywood, I Built entiref ly rom %-inch youto use thetable shown at leftallows your router asa stationary tool-a requirement of many operations. lt features a gauge, large topwitha slotfor a miter anadjustable fence, a storage shelf, and cuoboards. Start withthe basic structureof thetable, sizing thebottom, sides, your back, shelf, dividers, anddoors to suit parts needs. Fixthese together, using the joinery method of your choice. The table joints shown isassembled withbiscuit and panel screws. Bore a hole through theback power to accommodate theswitch's cord. For thetop,cuttwopieces of plywood and glue use andscrews to fasten them together;thepieces should be large enough to overhang thesides of thecabinet by2 or 3 inches. Fix thetooto thecabinet. Finally,fasten a combination switch-receptacleto oneof thedividers, witha power cordlong enough to reach a nearby outyouuse plugin the let.When thetable, router its motor andleave on.Use the table's switch to turnthetoolonandoff.

r) Preparing thetabletop I me router is attached to thetoowith a square sub-base of %-inchthick clear acrylic. Several steps arenecessary to fit thesub-base to thetopandthento the position router. First, thesub-base at the center of thetopandoutline itsedges with a pencil. Mark thecenter of thesub-base and drill a pilot hole through theacrylic and thetop.Remove thesub-base androut out recess within a %-inch-deep theoutline (right). Use a chisel to pare to thelineand Then, square thecorners. using thepilot hole asa center, cut a hole through the yourrouter's topto accommodate base plate. guide Next, usea straightedge to yourout help themiter slotacross thetop: Clamp theguide square to thefront edge of thetopandbutttherouter against it asyouplow a slotthatisjustwide enough gauge to fit your miter barsnugly.



Preparing thesub-base larger Drill a hole through thecenter of thesub-base slightly your fasten to therouter largest router bit,and thesub-base than (above). in flat-head machine screws Setthesub-base using pilot recess it withwood screws, drilling thetable andattach allfasteners. holes firstandcountersinkine Making thefence
plywood Cut two piecesof 3/q-inch

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A router table on the table eaw To makethe moet,of Nheepace in your ehoV, builda router oawo . table intoyourNable ex\eneiontable, RouN a'/+-inch-deep receeeinto a 6t j: non-meNallic sei-

andscrew them together in an L shape. Saw a notch outof thefence's bottom your largest bit, edge to accommodate fourtriangular andscrew supports to (above). the back for added stability plastic guard, Attach a clear semicircular witha hinge so it canbeswung outof theway. To usetherouter table for a straigh ctu t ,c l a m p t h ef e n c e in positheworkpiece into thebit, tionandfeed holding it flush against thefence.

eaw,cu| a holein the receee Noaccommodale vour rouler'o from Nhe lhe eub-baee t.ool, ecrew' baeeplate.Thenremove inetead.NexN ingthe rouf,er t o the plaeticViece ecrew lhe fasteners.Keatcountersink all Nhe plaoticinto the receeoi LachIhe rouNer NoNhebaeeplaIe.A fencecan becul from plywood and atNached to tie sawfencewhennecessar'l,




thetable 1 Building I A t t a c h etd oa workbenc oh rt a b l e , theremovable extension table shown at youto convert leftallows three different portable power tools into stationary devices: therouter, theelectric drill, and thesaber saw. Size theparts according to your needs. plyStart bycutting thetopfrom %-inch wood, andtherails andbraces from2-by4 stock. Saw therails a fewinches longer thanthewidth of thetopsotheycanbe fastened to the underside of the bench wing using nuts a n dh a n g e b ro l t sT . he hinged braces should belong enough to reach from theunderside of therails to a l e gs t r e t c h e or nt h e b e n c hC . u ta b e v e l at thetopendof thebraces anda rightangled notch a t t h e b o t t o mM . o u na tn forthetoolontheunderside On/off switch o f o n eo f t h er a i l s a sy o uw o u l d f o ra (page table/cabinet 106).

r) Preparing thetabletop L Cutarectansular hole outof thetabletop's center theiame size astheinserts (page youwilluse fortheIools 109.fhen screw cleats to theunderside of thetop, forming a ledge to which the inserts can (rrghf). befastened



therouter insert Q Preparing thethree toolinserts, sizing themprecisely to fit rn :.f Saw is fitted into t h et a b l e t oh po l eA . na c r y l irco u t es ru b - b a s e the insert following thedirections fortherouter table onpages 106 n s e ri t n t h et a b l es , e ti t o nt h ec l e a t s a n d1 0 7 .T oi n s t a l l t hie (right). at each corner Drill andscrew the insert to thecleats pilotholes forthescrews. Make a fence asyouwould forthe nnsi107.Secure i1 l[s clesirocl router table on page thefence with tion clamos.

Electric drill inaert

Preparing drillinsert theelectric Bore a hole t h r o u gth h ec e n t eo r f t h ed r i l li n s e rstl i g h t l y you wider thanthe largest sanding drum or other accessory (The plan to use. stationary drillis particularly useful forsandguide i n g .S ) crew a c o m m e r cd ia rl ill t o t h eu n d e r s i o df e the (You insert withthedrillchuck centered over thehole(above). mayneed in thebase to drillholes of thedrillguide to fasten i t i np l a c e . ) T h be i to ra c c e s s o in ry t h ed r i l c l huck s h o u lp dr o from without visible. trude thetopof theinsert thechuck being guide P l a cw e o o d ew na s h e r rods us n d etrh eg u i d e o f t h ed r i l l if necessary. Fasten to adjust theheight of thedrill, the insert to thecleats asyoudidtherouter insert.

Preparing insert thesaber saw f, plate r,l Position thesaw's base sotheblade willbeinthecenterof theinsert andmark itslocation. Bore a hole at themark plate large enough to clear theblade. Screw thesaw's base to the inserl arefewer thanfourscrew holes in the hbovd lf there base drilladditional holes. Mount olate. theinsert to thecleats.





Cleat groove (rf needed)

Building andinstalling a tablefortheband saw y o ut o c u t l o n g A n e x t e n s i otn a b l eo n y o u rb a n ds a ww i l l e n a b l e plyr ase w i t hg r e a t ee a n dc o n t r o lU . sing %-inch o r w i d ep i e c e s wood, diametet rh , e ns a wo u tt h e c u t t h ej i g t o pt o a s u i t a b l e t h e s a wt a b l ea n dt r i m a o o r t i o n oftheback c e n t et ro f i t a r o u n d ce hannel e d g et o c l e a rt h e t h r o a t c o l u m nC . u ta i % - i n c h - w i d f r o mt h e b a c ko f t h e t a b l et o t h e c u t o u ts o t h e t a b l ec a n b e p r e p a rte w oc l e a t s installew d ithour t e m o v i ntg he bladeN . ext, that will be usedto attach the jig to the sawtable.Forthese, two 1 - b y - 3s sh o u l d l o n g e trh a nt h e s a wt a b l e . b e c u t a f e wi n c h e s P o s i t i ot nh e ma g a i n stth e s i d e s o f t h e s a wt a b l es o t h a t t h e y , i t h a t l e a s t% i n c ho f a r e% i n c h b e l o w t h e t a b l es u r f a c ew h o l e s( .Make s u r ey o u rm a c h i n h eas s t o c ka b o v e thethreaded have an accessory these holes; mostbandsaws themfor mounting r i pf e n c e .D ) e p e n d i no gn t h e p o s i t i o n of the holes o n y o u rs a w y o um a yh a v e n table, t o p o s i t i ot h et o p o f t h e c l e a t s c l o s etrh a n y o uw i l l h a v e to % i n c ht o t h e t o p o f t h e s a wt a b l e .I n t h a t c a s e r o u tg r o o v efs o rt h e c l e a t s o n t h e u n d e r s i do ef t h e t o p t o a l l o w Mark the tabletop to sit f lushwith the machine's table (above). sn t h e c l e a t sb , ore a h o l ea t e a c hs p o t ,a n d t h e h o l el o c a t i o no provided fasten t h ec l e a t s t o t h e t a b l ew i t ht h e m a c h i n e screws f o r t h e r i p f e n c e( r i g h t .t o p ) .T h e np l a c et h e t a b l e t o p on the cleatsand screwit in place(right,bottom); be sureto counter. h et o p s h o u l d sit levew l i t h t h e s a wt a b l e . s i n kt h e s c r e w sT Toremove t h ej i g ,r e m o v e o n l yt h e m a c h i n e s c r e w sl,e a v i n t g he p e r m a n e n ttl o y t h e t o p . Y o um a yn e e dt o c u t cleats attached notches in the undersido e f t h e t o p s o t h a ty o uc a n clearance reach themachine screws.




Fitting a drillpress with anextension table The small table typical of most drillpresseswillnotadequately large support workpieces, especially when thetoolis setup forsanding operations. Tobuild anextension t a b l es , tart b yc u t t i n g a piece of plywood %-inch intoa square withdimensions thatsuityour needs. Then mark a line down themiddle of theoiece and draw t w oc i r c l e c se n t e r e d o nt h e l i n e . Locate t h ef i r s ta b o u 4 t i n c h ef sr o mt h e b a c k edge, sizing it to fit snugly around thedrill . o c a tt e oresc s o l u m nL h es e c o n h do l e under thechuck; make itsdiameter about %inchgreater than thelargest accessory youplan pinpoint to use. Tohelp thecenter o f t h eh o l ei,n s t a a l l b i t i n t h ec h u c k and measure thedistance from thecolumn to thebit.Prepare to install thejigonthedrill press table bycutting itsback edge, leaving "ear" a rectangular thatprotrudes behind theback hole. Bore a hole through theear fora %-inch-diameter carriage bolt.Next, saw thejig in half along thecenterline and cutoutthetwocircles. Youmayneed to p r o t r u s i oo nn s make othec r u t st o c l e a r your machine O. nt h em o d es l hown a, notch w a sn e e d efd o rt h et a b l e height a d l u s t m etn rt ack o n t h et h r o ac t olumn. Finally s,c r e w a b u t th i n g e t o t h ef r o n t edge o f t h ej i g t o j o i nt h et w oh a l v ea ss shown. The carriage bolt and wing nutwill in place clamp thetable on topof the
drill nrpss t:hlo


t h es t a n d a n du s i n g Making to support a t r i g h ti s u s e d nt a n ds h o w n T h ev i s ee x t e n s i os vri s e i n t h es h o u l d e clamped t h e f r e ee n do f a l o n gb o a r d gs iven intheillustration T .h ed i m e n s i o n of a workbench C . u tt h e u p r i g htto l e n g t h , w i l l w o r kw e l lw i t h m o s tb e n c h e s a l o n gi t s intervals al 2t/z-inch t h e n s a w a n g l e dn o t c h e s thenotchf r o mt h e b o t t o mM . ake 5 inches l e n g t hs , tarting e s a b o u t1 i n c h l o n ga n d 1 , /i:n c hw i d e .T h e ns a wt h e f e e t e d g e sJ . oin t h e i rb o t t o m sl o n g a n d c u t r e c e s s ea to length n t h et o p t h e f e e tw i t h a n e d g eh a l f - l a p l o i n t :C u t h a l f - l a pis e d g eo f o n ef o o t a n d t h e b o t t o me d g eo f t h e o t h e r ,t h e n s d r y ,u s ea l a g t h e a d h e s i v ie g l u et h e t w o t o g e t h e rO . nce into thescrew t h e u p r i g ht o t h e f e e t ;d r i v e to attach screw t iece t r o mu n d e r n e a t h e f e e t .C u tt h e s u p p o rp t h e u p r i g hf about t iece t h e t o p o f t h e s u p p o rp angling l ars, a n d s w i v eb to the t iece . o l o i n t h e s u p p o rp t h e u p r i g h tT 10"toward through f o r % - i n c h - d i a m e td eo rwels b o r eh o l e s s w i v eb l ars, a n d n e a rt h e e n d so f t iece e n do f t h e s u p p o r p thesquare ; l u et h e d o w i n t ot h e h o l e sg t h e b a r sa , n ds l i pt h e d o w e l s . o f r e et o p i v o t T t h e s u p p o rp t iece butleave e l st o t h e b a r s , l t t h e t o p e n do f t h e s w i v e l i n s e rt h e d o w e a u s et h e s t a n d , t ou se l o ti n t h e u p r i g hfto r t h e h e i g h y b a r si n t h e a p p r o p r i a t t iece. en t h e s u p p o rp n e e da n d p r o py o u rw o r k p i e co

Uprighl; 3/,"x2i/+x30'



Frame 10"x 18"

Carria4e bolt

3/+" x 5 1/2"

Building thestand Setupontheoutfeed side of a saw table, a n a d j u s t a brl o e l l es r tand l i k et h eo n e yousupport shown at leftwillhelp large workpieces. Start byconstructing theframe fortheroller, cutting thefourpieces from 1-by-4 stock. Glue theframe together with buttjoints, adding screws to reinforce the connections. Then bore a hole in each side fora %-inch-diameter carriage bolt. Center thehole 3 inches fromthebottom of the frame. Screw theroller to thetoo.Cutthe pieces remaining of thestand from1-by-6 provided, stock, referring to thedimensions a n dr o u ta 1 4 - i n c h - l o n g,i n c h - w i d e % slotdown themiddle of thetwouprights. Screw t h ec r o s s p i e t co et h e u p r i g h t s , aligning thetopof thepiece withthebottomof theslot. Fasten theupright andrails to thefeet. Toguide theroller frame, nail r/t inch 1-by-1 cleats to theuprights about in fromtheedges. To setup thestand, position theframe between theuprights, f itting thecarriage bolts intotheslots frominside theframe. Slip washers over thebolts andtighten thewing nuts to set theheight of theroller slightly below the level of your saw table.

rlli lllt fiil lllt l]lJ lll1 illt lllllllt lllllltl lllt lllltll] fiIj lllJ llti llll
Atemporary rollerstand onlya eawhoree, Ueinq LwoC clampe, s o m ew o o d a , nda commercia ro l ller, you can makea eimplebuI effect,ive eland Lo supporN t.heoutfeedfrom anyof yourmachinee. Make a T-ohaped maeN for the roller, eneurinq it io long enouqh N oh o l dl h e r o l l e r aLa suiiable heiqht .)crew Lheroller to Lhehorizontal member of Nhe mast. Add a bracelo oneendof Ihe horee for clamoina lhe maet,in place: Cul 21-by-4o to opanthe l e g ea n d 6 c r e w lhemloNheleqe ao e h o w n . Ts oe c u r e t h e r o l l e re N a n d lo lhe sawhorse, clampthe maeN Notrhe makinq bracee, surelhe rollerie horizontal.


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hethervour workshoo is tucked awavin a cornerof vour basement or sDread out over a two-car garage, stoiingthe toolsand materials is a persistent thataccumulate challenge. Thischapter ofifers several simple storage devices that canhelpyou win the ongoingbattleagainst clutter. Theywill keep yourtoolsandmaterials within easy whentheyareneeded, reach andout of thewaywhentheyarenot. For storinghandtools,consider the handsaw holder (page 117) andthetool and routerbit racks tray,the chisel, As well ashelpingto shownopposite. your tools,these devices will organize prevent to cuttingedges. damage for storing An effective system clamps 118 is a must. Therackshown on page will accommodate a large selection and, it is mountedon casters, the because rack can be movedto wherever it is needed. Lumberand ply,voodstorage racks 120and12l. areshownon pages Eachof the examples showncanhold projects while enough stockfor several precious conserving floor space.


2aw blade otorage box (page 117) Keepe ctrcularaaw bladeavieible and protecLed; dividere keep bladeafrom touchina

Chiselrack )ecured Lo wall to keep Made chiaeleor4anized. from Lhreewood atrtpa; elota for chiaelaare dadoedalongedqeoof middlepiece,then etdpe are qluedtogether.

Router bit atorage rack Holderouter btta upright; holee are epaced to preventcuttin7 edgeefrom com' tnq into contact.

Clampscan be a nuisance to store because of their sheernumber in the shop.The simplerackshownat left is madeof stripsof wood nrounted on wall studs. Tlrc lowerstrip is thicker, to keepthe clampsleaning toward the wall.

Tool tray Drawer wiLha notched2-by-4 dividerfor houetn4 and protecLinq filee and raope


Handsaw holder (pase 117) Wall-mounLed rack for holdinq handeawe; made from 2-by-4 atock, plywood, dowela, and rubper noqe

Lumberatorage rack (page 121) FronL-loadin4 rack for lumber,with Eideloadinqarea under' neath for etonnq /ywood and oLher manufacturedpanele

Vefticalplywood rack (page 12O) For etackin7plywooaon ena;Pan' elE held by furrtn7 eLrip, Lhreaded rods,and winqnuto

Mobile alamp rack (page 118) Uprtqhtframe holds wrderan4e of clampa;caetere mounLed underbaee allowrack to be movedeaeily


sawblades Stoling circular in a cusr a wb l a d e s O r g a n i zy eo u rc i r c u l as storagb e o xl i k et h e o n es h o w n tom-made plywood, B u i l dt h e b o xf r o m% - i n c h at right. l a r g et rh a n y o u r c u t t i n gi t a f e w i n c h e s t o h o l da l l l a r g e sb t lade a n d w i d ee n o u g h y o u rb l a d e sM a n db a c k . a k et h e b o t t o m routing thedadoes f r o mt h e s a m ep i e c e , the forthe dividerf si r s ta n d t h e nc u t t i n g perfect p i e c ei n t w o . T h i sw i l l e n s u r e . u tt h e d a d o e s a l i g n m e no t f t h e d a d o e sC I i n c hd e e pa n dw i d e , at l/-inch spaced M t h e d i v i d e ro su to f % - i n c h intervals ,ake plywood in F .i t t h e d i v i d e r s or hardboard g and , l u et h e mt o t h e b o t t o m t h e i rd a d o e s To keep the boxtogether. back,then screw o u to f t h e b o x , cut f r o mr o l l i n g theblades fromscrap stockand nail it to the a batten of thebox. near thebottom dividers

tg h eh o l d e r B u i l d i na gn dm o u n t i n rackshown at left,made Thewall-mounted a,n d w i t h a f e w w o o ds c r a p sd , oweling friction to hold hose, uses s o m er u b b e r . u tt h e b a s e y o u rh a n d s a wi s from n p l a c eC p l y w o o d . from Each d i v i d eirs m a d e %-inch oa a 1 0 - i n c h - l o n g 2 - b y f-a 4c e - g l u etd 2-by-4. Begin byscrewing shortt ,apered a 2-by-4 a t t h e l e f te n do f t h e b a s et,h e n in place, leaving a thedividers secure ' / - i n c hg a p b e t w e e n t h e m .T h e s t o p p e r s pressed are4-inchlenghsof l-inch dowel r aro f r u b b eg i n t os l i g h t l y s h o r t ep r ieces rather than with ridges den hose; usehose hose. S l i p a s a wi n t ot h e r a c k smooth o nt h e h a n d l e . f r o mb e l o wt,h e nt u g d o w n in place. T h es t o p p ew r i l lp i n c h t h eb l a d e position , o r ea % - i n c h b M a r kt h e d o w e l ' s atthe h o l ei n t ot h e b a s e d i a m e t esrt o o o e d , nce m a r kt , h e ns c r e w t h e d o w eiln p l a c eO , ount s r e i n p o s i t i o nm a l l t h e s t o p p e ra ro t h e w a l l . t h e h o l d et


thestock forthejig 1 Gutting I T h el a r g e collectio on fclamps in most shoos-and theirawkward sizeand shape-can stretch even themost organized space to thelimit. Themobile clamp rack shown at leftcanbestored against thewall, rolled then to anypart of theshop where clamps areneeded. Start bycuttingthe pieces to size, referring to the illustratio nrs u g g e s t e fo dd imensions. (top, Thesixrails median, andbottom) thetwostiles, andthree crosspieces are all sawn from2-by-4 stock. Cutthefour skirtpieces froma 2-by-4 andthe base (inset). plywood fromr/z-inch

Top rail 1 1/2" x 31/2"x 22"

Median rail 11/2" x 31/2" x 23 1,/2" ?tile

1 1/2"x 31/2" x /yl1/2tl

Eottom rail 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 23 1/2"

t/2"x 23 1/2" x 231/2"

1 1/2"x 3 1/2"x 23 1/2"

r) Attaching therails to thestiles L Prepare the rails forthejoinery bycutting endrabbets thatwillfit intonotches anddadoes in thestiles. Therab3/q bets should be 71/z inches wideand inchdeep, except f o rt h et o pr a i l sw , hich r e q u i ra er a b b e t n l y1 i n c h o wide. Notch t h et o pe n do f e a c h stile o nt h r e e s i d e st,h e nr o u t back-to-back dadoes near the bottom endandmiddle of thestiles; make thedadoes 3% inches wide and3hinch deep. Also cuta notch 3% inches wide and32inch deep youassemble from thebottom of each stile. When therails and stiles, align thetwohalves railface-to-face of each (right)and attach it to thestiles withscrews.



Mounting tothestiles thecrosspieces

T ol o i nt h e c r o s s p i e c e to s t h e r a c k ,c u t a 3 t l z - i n c h - w i d e a n ds c r e w t h e mi n p l a c e d a d oi n t h e m i d d l e o f e a c hp i e c e ( a b o v eT ) .h e m i d d l e w rail. crosspiec ei l l r e s to n t h e m e d i a n T h et o p p i e c e s w i l l r e s to n t h e o u t s i d e shoulder o sf t h e n o t c h e d
tnn nf p:r^h s,tilo

,{ -t

illJ lllillrl illlrlll rlll illt illlllilllliilillllllllj llllilliilllljl1 tlll

1toring clampoin a can A Lraehcan fiNNeA wibha ehopmadelid oerveg as a convenienl waylo eNore emallbar or pipe clamVe. CuN a Viece of '/z-inch VlywoodinLo a circle eliqhLly emaller ',.", NhanNhe diameler of Lhecan'srim. r-: Then scribea eeries of concenf,ric cirto helV you locate cleson LheVlywood Lheholes for the clamV baro. Space Lhecirclee aboutZinches aVarL and markpointo every 3 inches alon4them. throuqh Sorea |-inch-diameter hole in eachpoint,fit Lhepiece of plywood through Lhecan,anddropNhe clampe holee.To from Nhe clampe prevenNNhe keep corrodinq, the can dry aL all Nimes.

Attaching thestiles to the base Finish the rackby sawing two notches in the base andskirtto accommodate thestiles, r a b b e t i no g n ee n d o f e a c h skirt piece, andscrewing themtogether to form a box (page118, insef).Usescrews toattach t h e b a s et o t h e s k i r t .F i n a l l y , a t t a c hc a s t e r s to the underside of ,hen t h e s k i r ta t e a c h c o r n eo r f t h er a c kt s l i pt h es t i l e si n t ot h e n o t c h e s in the basehbove)and secure thestiles to the base a n ds k i r tw i t h e l u ea n ds c r e w s .


suchas these Commerciallumber racl<s, are both cantileveredlumber shelves, adaptableand strong, making them idealfor the home workshop.Screwed to a concrete wall or to wall studs,they can be adjusted to various heightsto suit your particular storageneeds.


Threadedrod Furrin7 atrip

Constructing therack plywood onendsaves valuForlong-term storage, stacking floor Therack shown at leftis builtfrom able shop space. rods, wing nuts. byscrewing furring strips, threaded and Start wall, 2 and5 feet two1-by-3 furring strips to thestuds of one rods 4Y, feetapart fromthefloor; first bolttwothreaded intothetopstrip. Cuta thirdfurring strip andbore a hole it at oneendandsaw a notch at theother endto through . oth opening ss hould b es l i g h t l y l i n eu p w i t ht h er o d sB pads Place twowood larger thanthediameter of therods. sheets onthefloorbetween therods andstack theplywood funing across the upright onthem. Holding thethird strip panel, face of thelast slipone rodthrough thehole andthe intotheslot.Putwashers andwing nuts ontherods other pulling them, thefuning strip tightly against the andtighten (above). plywood Toremove a sheet fromthestack, loosen the wing nuts andswing thefurring stripupandoutof theway. Wood pad 3/r"x3%"x12"



Fastening therack to anunfinished wall is attached to wall below, made entirely oI2-by-4 stock, Therack shown joists. plywood is Lumber onthearms, while studs andceiling canbepiled brackets. You willneed at least 8% stacked on edge against thesupport panels. to beable to slide in plywood feetof free space at oneendof therack them to the Begin bycutting thetriangular-shaped brackets andscrewing (right). thebrackets andnailthem to Cutthefootings, slipthemunder sluds andtoe-nail their ends to the floor. Next, saw theuprights to length theshop footings thejoists. Cutasmany arms asyouneed, aligning thefirstrow and brackets. Use carriage bolts to fasten the withthetapered endof thesupport row making sure thearms in thesame are arms to thestuds anduprights, in theillustration features arms spaced at 18-inch intervals. level. Therack

9upport bracket


)ole plate

11/2"x31/z"x20" 11/2"x31/z"xB"


fromthewalls ostjigsthathang typicalof woodworkers' shops
ly providea shortcutto a commontask, from boring mortises to edge-gluing have panels. As the previous chapters shown, the mostpopularjigsarethose and more accuthat makea job easier rate,or improvea tool'sperformance. of workBut eventhe mostmundane shopchores canbenefitfrom a helping hand, whetheryou are moving large materials arounda shopor throwsheet ing somelight on your work. a collection ofsuch Thischapter covers suchasfeathshopaids.Somedevices, (page125), are erboards andpush sticks for everywoodworking indispensable for morespeshop. Othersaredesigned and cialized tasks, suchasmeasuring (page 133) markinglargearcl"'s or prepar130).lf iou ing thin or smallstock(page frequentlywork alonewith largesheet materials suchasplywoodandparticle(page128) sawhorses board,collapsible areashandy asan extrapair ofhands, switchfor while an auxiliaryoverhead your 131)wrJJmake thetablesaw(page shop a saferplace.Evenmany of the of finishingcanbesolved stickyproblems (page 1j5). with a fewsimpledevices (lFSH(IP AIDS ANASSORTMENT Eeveled featherboard (pase127)
ldentical to atandard featherboard, except the fin4eroare beveled eo they preoo workpiece aqaineL both the fenceand table of a stationary tool 9tandard featherboard (pase 125) Aleo knownae fin4er' board: preaeea atock enu7lyaqainat the table or fence of a etationary tool

thimmed featherboard

(pase12Q rd featherboard A atanda

aupported b5t a ahim ao that finqere apply preaaure hiqher on workpiece Push atiak (page 125) Uaedto feed atock acroao atationary tool table Plywood carrier (page 13O) Features a handleand a lip for carryin7 large eheet materiale Iikeplywoodand particleboard Bench dog lamp euppora (page 157) Fite into benchdo7 hole;featurea a hole to accommodate deak lamp Auxiliary table aaw switch (page 131) For turnin7 table aaw on and off when main awitch is out of reach; inetalled near ceilingand wired to eaw

you to A spraying turntable allows withouttouching applyafinish evenly aroundit; theworkpiece or moving on theend tqbleshownat left rests As shown on drying supports. four page136,the jigis easily builtfrom p\nvoodanda "lazySusan" bearing.



Compaoe (paqe 133) For drawin4 circlee; awl ie fixed to ctrcle's center and pencit drawa circumference

jig V-bloak (pase 132) Clampedto jointer table for chamferinq a workpiece

Planingjig for thin atoak (page 131) For thrckneae planin4 of aLockthinner than cleate %inch;beveled hold workpiece in place


9praying turntable (paqe 136) Kotatin4 platform ueinqa "lazv )uean" bearina Vacuumacreeningramp (page l3O) Dust is ewept onf,oramp and falle throu7h holes;holetn backaccepLo duet collectionhoaeao that duaL ia auckedinf,ocollectionavatem
S S S 6 S

gtaaking handlee (paAe 135) Tack-nailed Lo the endaof a board to enableboth facee
to be ftniahed before piece

clamped to a board for acribinglarqe circlea

ie left to dry; can be etacked for multi' ple workpiecea

Center finder (pase 152)

Ueed to def,ermine the cenLer of a ctrcular workptece

s s s s s \ 't-s s

Folding sawhorae (page 129) thaL A hinqedaawhorae can be folded flat

Shooting boards (page 134) Ueedwtth a planeto emoothend7rain. board (top) ro for planinq Kiqht-an1le atraight end grain;anqledveraion (bottom) ie ueed for milered ende

Knoak-down aawhoree (page 128) aawhorae Three-piece whichcan be dieassembledquicklyand atored


push push Making sticks and blocks push blocks forfeeding Push sticks and power stock across thetable of a stationary plywood or toolcanbemade using %-inch is ideal; a wellsolid stock. Noone shape push designed stick should becomfortable en d touse a n ds u i t a b lfe o rt h em a c h i na t a s ka t h a n d F . o rm o s t c u t so n a t a b l e a push stick witha 45' angle saw, design (right, between the handle andthe base angle f o ru s e fop). R e d u cte h eh a n d l e Thenotch withtheradial armsaw. onthe bottom edge must bedeep enough to support not theworkpiece, butshallow enough thesaw table. Thelong base of to contact push stick(right, middle) a rectangular youto apply pressure enables downward For of ona workpiece. surfacing theface widebase a board on a jointer, the long, ideal. of a pushblock(right, bottom)is It feature a sl i p g l u e d t o t h eu n d e r s i d e w i t ho n ee n d . Screw o f t h eb a s ef,l u s h tothetop,positioning it sothe thehandle is even withtheendof thebase. back

Pueh etiak %"x5%"x12"


Makins a standard featherboard 1 t I Featherboards serve asanti-kickback allow theworkdevices, since thef ingers piece in only to move o n ed r r e c t i o n To toward a stationary tool's bit or blade. liketheoneshown make a featherboard at left, cuta 30"to 45" miter at oneendof a % - i n c h - t h i3 ckt,o 4 - i n c h - w i b do eard; of thejig canbevaried to suit thelength y o up l a n t h ew o r k t o d o .M a r k a parallel from lineabout 5 inches themitered end andcut a series of slots to the marked l i n eo nt h e b a n d s a ws , p a c i ntg h ek e r f s about %inchaoart to create a rowof sturdybutpliable f ingers. Finally, cuta notch outof oneedge of the featherboard to accommodate a supDort board.



Using standard featherboards onthetable saw Clamp onefeatherboard to thefence above theblade, andplace a longer onehalfway between the blade andthefront of the table. Clamp a support board in thenotch perpendicular to thehorizontal featherboard to prevent it fromcreeping oui of place during thecut.For theoperation shown at left,feed theworkpiece intothe your fingers blade until trailing reach the featherboards. Then usea push stick to finish thecut,or move to theback of the table withthesaw stillrunning andpull past theworkpiece theblade.

Pushsticl<s andfeatherboards makean operation like rippingon thetablesaw muchsaferby keepingyour hands well push away the blade. The stick is from used tofeedthestock and keep it flat on presses thetable,whilethefeatherboard theworkpiece against thefence.The shownin thephotois featherboard secured to thetablewith special hardwareratherthanwith clamps. A clamping bar in themiterslotfeatures two scrsus that canbetightened, causing the barto expand and locktightlyin theslot.



Ripping stock witha beveled featherboard A featherboard clamoed to thefence of a page, table saw, asshown ontheprevious cangetin theway of a push stick during a ripcut.A featherboard witha beveled end will press a workpiece against boththe fence andsaw table, eliminating theneed (rrghf). to clamp a featherboard to thefence Make thedevice asyouwould a standard (page featherboard 125),but cut a 45" bevel on its leading endbefore cutting the f ingers andslots. Also make sure thatthe featherboard isthicker than thestock vou
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Shimming a featherboard When working withthick stock or runninga board on edge across a saw table, a featherboard clamped directly pressure to thetablemayapply too low ontheworkpiece, causing it to tilt presaway fromthefence. To apply sure closer to themiddle of thestock, screw thefeatherboard to a shim and thenclamp theshimto thetable(/eff).


h es a w h o r s e B u i l d i ntg at i k et h e o n es h o w n A sturdy s a w h o r sle w i t ho n l ya s m a l a l mount l e f tc a nb e m a d e apart a,n dt a k e n r n dp l y w o o d o f l u m b ea . u tt h e l e g s eu d i c k l yC a n dr e a s s e m b l q , e ns a wa 3 - i n c h th f r o ml - i n c h p l y w o o d i n t h en i d d l eo f t n et o oo f b o t h d e e pn o t c h p i e c e sN . extc f re om . u t t n ec r o s s p r e c 1-by-6 stock a n d s a wa 1 / - i n c h - d e e p e n dt o f i t i n t o i n f r o me i t h e r s l o t8 i n c h e s 'from . ngle t h es l o t s ' o u g h5 ly t h e l e g sA
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Top rarl 3/o"x5%"x36"

Corner halfIapjoint

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Tadding eawhoroes To VrevenL a sawhorse from marrinqyour worK, coverits croeepiece with a elriV of carpeL, an oldlowel, or a blanket,Fold the maLerial overf,heNoV edqe
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andscrew or nail it,to the eidee,

Making thesawhorse Made e n t i r e lfy r o m1 - b y - 6 s t o c kt,h e lightweight sawhorse shown above, featuring a hinged topandcrossbrace, folds flatforeasy storage. Cutthe legs and rails h n dl o i nt h e m to lengta together; (inset, usecorner half-laps top) Io loin thetoprails to thelegs andT half-laps (inset, bottom) to attach thelegs to the bottom rails. Reinforce thejoints with jointhetwosecglue and screws, then tions at thetoprails witha piano hinge. Finally, cutthecrossbrace; besure it is long enough sothatwhen the legs are spread, thepiano hinge is recessed below t h et o pe d g e o f t h et o pr a i l s S . aw the crossbrace in halfandconnect thetwo pieces withthehinge. Then fasten the crossbrace to both side rails, again using piano hinges.


panels Moving large particleboard, and hardSheets of plywood, to carand awkward board areoftenheavy the rhown a t l e f tw i l l m a k e r y .T h ec a r r i es l o a de a s i e tro b e a r .R o u ta 1 - i n c h - w i d e of a l2-inch-long r a b b ea t long o n ee d g e b o a r dC . u t a n o t c ho u t o f o n ee n d o f a piece a woodblock of plywood, thenscrew as a the end of the notchto serve across theother e n do f t h e p l y h a n d l eA . ttach f a c eo f t h e w o o dp i e c et o t h e r a b b e t e d . o u s et h e c a r r i e rs , imply b o a r d( i n s e t )T a n dp u l li t u p h o o ki t u n d e r thesheet underyour arm (left).Somewoodworkers f i n d i t m o r ec o m f o r t a b lte o s t a n do n t h e l n du s et h e i ro t h e r o f t h e p a n ea c a r r i es ri d e it. h a n dt o s t e a d y


so p l a n e s h o rs t tock Using r u n n eg r uidet a thickness F e e d i ns gh o r tb o a r d s through p l a n ec r a nc a u s e s n i p r na g n dk i c k b a c k . as it enters T o h o l ds h o r ts t o c ks t e a d y a n de x r t s t h e n l a ,n s . l u et w os o l i d wood " .e , r b," o f y o u rw o r k s c r a pr u n n e r s to theedges n i p c p [ \ , 4 : ks pr r r p thp nlnnefs a f et h e en d s a m et h i c k n e s a s s t h e w o r k p i e ca b o t he n d s . s e v e r ai ln c h e s beyond extend (rrght), Feed intothe planer the workpiece of lrght c u t su n t i l y o u makrng a series T.h e n have r e a c h et d h ed e s i r e t dh i c k n e s s cutofftherunners.



i g f o rt h i ns t o c k Using a p l a n i n jg T h i c k n e sp sl a n i n g stock t h i n n et rh a n r/ainchoftencauses chatter and splintering of the workpiece. To avoid theseprob"thicker" l e m sm a k e t h i ns t o c k w i t ht h i sj i g . gluetwo beveled To makert,srmply cleats to either e n do f a b o a r d thatisslightly (inset)T . o longer t h a n y o u rw o r k p i e c e make across the cleats, cut a 45' bevel the middle of a board approximate th ly e same t h i c k n e sa s st h e w o r k p i e c e N . e x t ,b e v e l t h e e n d so f t h e w o r k o i e c eS . e tt h e s t o c k on a backup boardp , osition thecleats f l u s ha g a i n st h e w o r k p i e c s eo t h e b e v e l c u t sa r ei n c o n t a c ta , n dg l u et h e c l e a t s in place and tothebackup b o a r dR . u nt h e1 r g , aking w o r k p i e cte hrough t h e p l a n e rm s e v e r alli g h t p a s s e s d o w nt o t h e d e s i r e d ( r i g h t )t ,h e n c r o s s c utth e e n d s thickness o f t h e w o r k o i e cs eo u a r e .


Installing an overhead switch S w i t c h i no gn a t a b l es a ww h i l eb a l a n c i n g p a n eo l n t h e t a b l ec a np r o v e a large d i f fi c u l t .T h ea d d i t i o n o f a n o v e r h e as dw i t c h y o ut o s t a r t h e s a ww h e n w i l le n a b l e the mainswitchis out of reach//eft).Locate t h e n e ws w i t c hs o y o u c a n r e a c hi t c o m fortably w i t h a 4 - b y - Bp a n e lo n t h e s a w tablejust in frontof the blade; screw a tria n g u l ab r r a c k etto t h e c e i l i n g a n da t t a c h theswitch t o t h e b r a c k ea t t a suitable h e i g h tR . u na l e n g t h of non-metallic s h e a t h e ld 2-gauge cable f r o mt h e s w i t c h along t h ec e i l i n gd ,own t h ew a l l , a n da c r o s s the floorto yoursaw.Have a licensed electrician w i r et h e s w i t c h t o t h e s a ws o t h a t b o t hi t a n dt h e o r i g i n a sl w i t c h a r ea b l et o startor stopthe machine; never disconnect theswitch onthesawitself.




Cutting a chamfer jointer, jig shown Tocutchamfers onyour use thesimple above. Refer to the illustration forsuggested dimensions. Begin by bevel cutting 2-by-2s fortheV section of thejig. Position the twocut pieces onthe base sotheyextend beyond oneendby gapbetween 12 inches, witha %-inch about them. Attach the withcountersunk twopieces to the base screws to avoid scratch-

ingthejointer table. Touse thejig,clamp it in place withone withthecutterhead-end endof thebase aligned of the infeed Lower table. theinfeed table untiltheV section of thejig lies jointer's flushonthe outfeed table. Seat theworkpiece in the gapof thejig,thenfeedit across theknives while holding it firmlyin IheY (above).

Finding the centerof a circular workpiece is easyif you use the jig shown at right. The simple deyice consis* of a piece of plywood with a 90" wedgecut out of it and a l2-inchJong 1-by-2 mountedso that one edgebisec* the wedge.To usethe jig, seat the workpiece in the wedgeand draw a line acrossits diameter using the 1-by-2 as a guide. Rotate the workpiece about 90oand draw anotherline. The nvo will intersectat the centerof the circle.




tramme bl l o c k s Making a n du s i n g c i r c l eu s i n g a s e to f Y o uc a ns c r i b e a large l i k et h eo n es h o w n at right. t r a m m eb l locks C u tt h e p i e c e s o f t h e j i g f r o ms o l i dw o o d , for dimensions; make referring to the inset s u r et h e b e a mi s l o n g e t rh a nt h e r a d i u s notch %i n c h . u ta n a n g l e d o f y o u rc i r c l eC f r o mt h e t o p o f e a c hb l o c kt o a c c o m m o a n da w e d g eF . o rt h e p i v o t , d a t et h e b e a m drive a n a i l i n t ot h e b o t t o m o f o n eb l o c k , a n df i l e i t t o a p o r n t . s n i po f f t h e h e a d , inthe Mouna t sharo o e n c iiln a h o l eb o r e d bottom o f t h e o t h e rb l o c k . Make s u r ei t s p o i n ti s l e v e w l i t ht h e n a i l .T o u s et h e j i g , loosen w a n d s l i d et h e b l o c k s the edges n he along t h e b e a mu n t i lt h e g a p b e t w e et p e n c i p l o i n t e q u a l t s h e d e s i red n a i l t i pa n d y o u r radrus T r g h t e n t h e w e d g es, of circle. p i v o t p o i n t a t t h e c e n ter h o l dt h e steady p e n c i p l o i nt r o t a t e o f t h ec i r c l ea , nd the (right). aroundit

Making a n du s i n g a fixed compass Consistin og f a n a r m ,a n a w l ,a n da p e n c i l , youto at leftwill allow the compass shown yn yr a d i u sF . or scribe a circle o f v i r t u a l la t h e a r m ,c u t a l - b y - 2a f e w i n c h e s longer t h a nt h e r a d i u s o f y o u rc i r c l e B . ore a hole a b o u t1 i n c hf r o mo n ee n d o f t h e a r m , large enough t o h o l dt h es h a f to f t h e a w l . Make to accoma n o t h eh r o l eb i ge n o u g h modate t h e p e n c i lt;h e d i s t a n c b eetween theholes should e o u atl h e r a d i u s of the circle. F i t t h e a w l a n d s h a r o e n eo de n c i l i n t ot h e i rr e s p e c t i v he o l e sm , aking sure the twoextend fromthe bottom of the arm b yt h es a m e a m o u n tU . s et h e c o m p a s s , olding the a sy o uw o u l d t r a m m eb l l o c k sh of thecircle t i p o f t h e a w la t t h e c e n t e r it to a n dr o t a t i n g t h e p e n c i la r o u n d scribe t h e c u c l e( l e f t ) .



RIGHT-ANGLE SHOOTING BOARD )quare etop block 1"x4"x5"



shooting boards 1 Making I T os m o o t e h n dg r a i n w i t ha p l a n e , usea shooting board likethose shown at (left, left.Theright-angle shooting board above) is for planing straight endgrain; a mitered version canalso be built(/eft, below). Cutthepieces according to the dimensions suggested in theillustrations. Build thebase, top,andmitered stop block plywood; from%-inch usesolid wood for thelipand thesquare stop block. Screw thetopto thebase withtheends andone edge aligned. Then attach the lip to the b a s em , a k i ns gu r e t h a tt h el i p l i n e s up withthe endof the base. Forthe rightangle shooting board, fasten thestop block to thetopflush withtheother endof the jig.For themitered shooting board, centerthestop block onthetop.

MiLered atop block '1"x5%"x12"

r) Smoothing grain end jig,hook L to use either theliponthe edge of a work surface. Setyour workpiece onthetop,butting theedge against thestopblock sothatit extends over the edge of thetop byabout %o inch. With position themitered shooting board, the workpiece against theappropriate side of (For thestop block. a long workpiece, it may benecessary to place a support board under theopposite endto keep theworkpiece level.) Set a plane on itsside at one e n do f t h ej i g a n db u t tt h es o l e against theedge of thetop.Holding theworkpiece guide firmly, theplane along thejigfrom oneendto theother(rghf).



A cleanmetalcanwith wire strung across themouthoffers a neatand simple way to controltheJlowof stainor Punchholes in varnish from a brush. rim, sides of the can near the opposite theholes andpour stringa wire between the container. After diptheliquid into ping thebrush,draw the bristles across liquid. thewire to wipeoff any excess





Stacking shelves to dry Finishing a shelf one side at a timedouforthistask. Using bles thetimeneeded s t a c k i nh ga n d l es sh o w n at t h es i m p l e l e f t ,y o uc a nf i n i s h b o t hs i d e s atonce. from solid wood stock and Cutthehandles i n o n ef a c e ofeach one. m i l la t o n g u e t inch wider Make t h eh a n d l ea st l e a s% youare thanthethickness of thestock finishing D.r i v s e m a ln l ails longe th r an thickness through them and thehandles' gently press points into the protruding before finishtheends of theworkpiece ingit. Use thehandles to turntheboard youaredone, asyouapply f inish; when theboards canbestacked, allowing airto circulate freely asthef inish dries. When piece finishing a larger of furniture, setthe (inset). piece set of drying supporls on a These 2-inch-souare wood blocks have s m a ln l ails d r i v et nh r o u gth heir centers to support a workpiece at itscorners.




theturntable 1 Building I Consisting of a base andtopcutfrom plywood %-inch witha "lazy Susan" bearingfastened in between, theturntable shown above allows a piece of furniture with to berotated asit is being sprayed . u tt h eb a s e a f i n i s hC a n dt o ps l i g h t l y larger thanthebase of thepiece of furniturt eo b ef i n i s h e d C.u ta h o l e i nt h e center of thebase to allow access to the screw holes forattaching theupper bearingto thetoponce thelower bearing is secured to thebase. First attach thelowwithscrews. er bearing to thebase To fasten thejig top,setthebase ontopof it withthebearing sandwiched between s n df l i p t h e mu p s i d e t h et w op i e c e a d o w nW . ith t h ee d g e o s f t h ep i e c e s flush, rotate thebearing sotheremaining screw holes areexoosed. then screw the upper bearing to thetop (above, right).

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Lubricating toole LighNly oilinq a handsaw blade or a plane eole beforeeNorinq iNkeepe the Loolclean and prerueN. venbe Tooilyour toolo neatly,ueea lubricalinq pad madefrom a lonqoLripof burlaV,Liqhtlv rolled in a and oacked i smallcan as shown here. '.Make eureNheeLriVie wide enoughto exbend pael the loo of the can.)oaklhe maNerial in Ihin yourplane machine oolee oil,andwipe and handsaw bladesoverit beloreeNorinq the toolo.Tiqhtly noNin coverlhe canwhen uee.
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r) using theturntable C- ltlahe foursmall drying supports (page 135).Setthe workpiece on the rotate tipsof thenails, then slowly the while turntable withonehand operating (above). gunwiththeother a spray

A movable light fora workbench A desk lamp attached to a bench dog as youto position shown at leftwillenable at anyof thedogholes along the thelight a hole b e n c hT . om a k e t h ej i g , b o r e t h es a m e diamete arst h es h a f o t fthe l a m oi n t ot h eh e a d o f a w o o d eb ne n c h dog(page92).




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Collecting shop dust For cleaning dust offtheshop floor, build a wedge-shaped ramp from screening (above). plywood Before andhardboard assembling thepieces, cuta hole in the back to fit a dustcollection hose, and fiverows bore of 1%-inch-diameter holes through thetop.When dustandwood chips areswept uponto theramp, smallsi l lf a l lt h r o u gth e rp a r t i c l e w h eh o l e s a n dc o n t i n uo en t o t h ed u s tc o l l e c t o r . Large n nt h er a m p dre b r i w s i l lr e m a i o foreasy disposal.

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jig A drawer-elide poeitioning you correcLly pooilion Tohelp commercial elidee on drawer eidee, uoelhe jiq shownhere. in a ecrapboard;make CuLa rabbet, Lhedepthofthe rabbelequaltolhe deeired dielance beLween the slide and the botlom of Nhedrawer ,-----.-.

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warebuIIed a4ainot I h e j i q .H o l d i n q N h e s l i d ea n d L h ej i q in place, markthe ecrewholee, bore and pilot holee, ecrew the elide to lhe drawer.



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Ahoning jig you Nooharpen herewillenable TheoimVle plane 1igehown wiNhoul honing )lip a bladee the aid of a commercial 6uide. 4 - inch1 onq, 3 / s- inch-diameter car ria4e bolt throuqh th e Faeten waehers blade'e eloN. and wingnulo on both sidesot etone Nheblade.Wil'h lhe cuLtinq edqeon lhe oharpeninq and Nheheadof lhe bolt on your worksurface,ueea -..-/'\, bevel Io adjuoLthe winq ?rotractor and a oliding nuNe lhe eo Nhatthe blade can be slidalona oione allhe properan4le,typically 3O". ,,t-.Yat

Steam-bending a workpiece Tosteam-bend small workpieces, such asstrips of molding, build theportable Cuta length of steamer shown above. youwish ABSpipelonger thanthewood to bend andabout thesame diameter kitchen kettle; asthespout of anelectric usea kettle witha round spout. Connect one endof thepipe to thespout, makinga tight seal withduct tape. Support at a slight theother endof thepipe angle piece plywood ona notched of clamped in a bench vise. Touse thejig,bring the water to a boil, insert theworkpiece to (above), besteamed andstuffa raginto theopen endof thepipe to contain the "cook" steam. Lettheworkoiece until guide, thewood softens; asa rough allow per t hour inchof thickness. Refill the plugging kettle asnecessary, theendof thetube temporarily to contain thesteam.


A-B-C Auxiliaryfencs A wooden attachment to the rip fenceof a table saw or other machine,for the purpose of avoiding accidentaldamageto the metal fence. Bench dog: A round or squarepeg made of metal or wood that fits into a hole in a workbench to hold a workpiece in place. Bench stop: A jig fastened to a work surfaceto steadya workpiece. Bevel cut A cut made at an angle from faceto facethrough the thicknessof a workpiece. Biscuit joiner: A portable power tool usedfor cutting slotsfor wooden wafersin biscuit joinery. Also known asa platejoiner. Biscuit jointz See platejoint. Box joint A corner joint featuring straight, interlocking fingers. Carcasq The box-like body of a pieceof furniture. Chamfer: A bevelcut along the edgeof a workpiece. Chuck Adjustable jaws of a drill that hold bits and other accessories. Clampingcapacity: The widest span of a clamp'sjaws. Clearancehole: A hole bored in a workpieceto accommodatethe shank of a screw. Collet The sleeve of a router that holds the bit shank. Countersink: To drill a hole that allowsa screwheadto lie flush with or slightly below the surface. Cove:A concave decorative profile cut in wood, usuallyalong an edge. Crosscut A cut made across the grain of a workpiece. D.E-F-G.H-I Dado: A rectangularchannelcut across the grain of a workpiece. Doweft Wood pin usedto reinforce certaintypesof joints. Edge-gluing:Bonding boardstogether edge-to-edge to form a panel. Extensiontable: An accessory work surfaceusedto expandthe working areaof a stationarymachine. Face-gluing:Similar to edge-gluing, exceptthat boardsarebonded face-to-face. Faceplateturning: Turning circular or cylindrical workpiecessuchas bowls on the faceplate of a lathe. Featherboard:A board with thin "feathers" fingersor along one end, clampedto the fenceor table of a stationarytool to hold a workpiecesecurely. Fence: An adjustable guide to keep the edgeof a workpiecea setdistance from the cutting edgeof a tool. Fixture Shop-madedeviceattached to a stationary or portable power tool to increase its capacityor efficiency. Frame-and-panel joinery: A method of assembling boardsinto rectangular frames;grooves alongthe inside edges of the frame enclose a panel. Furring strip: A thin board that is nailed to a wall or ceiling to provide a flat or level surface; normally used for securingdrywall or paneling. Groove A cut along the grain of a workpiece,forming a channel;frequently decorative, but sometimes part of a joint. HeadstoclcThe spindle attachedto the motor of a lathe;holds work for spindle-turning in conjunction with the tail stock,or usedalonefor turning with a faceplate. Seetailstock. l-K-L-M-N-O-P-Q fig: Devicefor guiding a tool or holding a workpiecein position. fointing: Cutting thin shavings from the surfaceof a workpiece until it is flat and perpendicularto the adjoining surface. Joist A horizontal support for a floor; analogous to the raftersof a roof. Kerf: The cut madeby a sawblade. Kickback The tendenry of a workpieceto be thrown back toward the operatorof a machineor tool. Lap joint A joint in which matching dadoesor rabbetsoverlapto connecttwo boards. Miter cufi A cut that anglesacross the faceof a workpiece.


Miter gauge A devicethat slidesin a slot on the sawtable,providing support for the stockasit moves pastthe blade for crosscuts; its angle can be adjustedfor miter cuts. Mortise: A rectangular, round, or oval hole cut to accommodate a tenon. Mortise-and-tenon joint A joinery techniquein which a projecting tenon on one board fits into a cavity-the mortise-in another. Pilot bearing: A cylindrical metal collar aboveor below the cutting edgethat guidesa router bit along the workpieceor a template. Pilot hole: A hole bored into a workpieceto accommodatea nail shaft or the threadedpart of a screw;usually slightly smallerthan the shaft or threadedsectionof the screw. The hole guidesthe fastenerand preventssplitting. Platejoint A method ofjoining wood in which oval wafersof compressed wood fit into slotscut in mating boards. Pockethole: An angledclearance hole that allowsa screwheadto be recessed below the surface;often usedwhen joining rails to a tabletop. Push block or stick: A deviceused to feeda workpieceinto the blade, cutter, or bit of a tool to protect the operator'sfingers.

Quill stroke The length of travel of the quiil of a drill press. R-S Rabbet A step-likecut in the edge or end of a board; usuallyforms part of a joint. Radius:The distancefrom the center of a circleto its outsideedge;onehalf the diameter. Rait The horizontal member of a frame-and-panelassembly. See stile. Raisedpanet A pieceof wood that forms the centerof a frame-andpanel assembly. Bevelingthe edges of the panel creates the illusion that the centralportion is raised. Release cut A preliminary incision from the edgeof a workpiece to a line about to be cut; enablesa band sawor sabersawto cut tighter curvesby facilitating the removal of wastewood. Rip cufi A cut that follows the grain of a workpiece-usually made along its length. Shooting board: A jig for holding the end grain of a workpiecesquare to the soleof a plane. Sizing board: A jig usedto cut workpieces to length, typically with a handsaw. Snipe A concave cut createdby a jointer or planer at the end of a workpiece,the result of improper pressure or table height.

Spindle: The threadedarbor on a lathe that holds the headstockor faceplate; alsothe threadedarbor on a drill pressor shaperthat holds cutters, bits, and other accessories. Spindle turning: Turning cylindrical workpieces held betweenthe headstock and tailstockof a lathe. that Square:Adjoining surfaces meet at an angleof 90o. Stilq The vertical member of a fr ame-and-panel assembly. Seerail. T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z Tirilstock The adjustablespindle on a lathe; usedin conjunction with the headstock to hold work for spindle turning. Seeheadstock. Thpercut An angledcut along the length of a workpiecethat reduces its width or thicknessat one end. Tearout The raggededges producedwhen a bladeor cutter tears the wood fibers rather than cutting them cleanly. Template A pattern, typically made of plywood or hardboard,usedwith a power tool to produce multiple copiesof an original. Tenon:A protrusion from the end ofa board: cut to fit into a mortise. Wall stud: A vertical framing member forming wallsand supporting the framework of a building.


Pagereferencesin irallcsindicate an illustration of subject matter.

Dadoes: Routers adjustable dadoingjigs, 15, I9 jigs for evenly spaceddadoes,J3, I7 quick-setup dadoing jigs, .15,l8 T-squarejigs,15, 16 T-squarerouting guides(ShopTip), 16 De Cristoforo,R.J.,6-7 Dovetail joints: Sliding dovetail router jigs, 14,26 Dowels: Inserting dowels with a depth gauge (ShopTip), 62 Drawers: positioningjigs Drawer-slide (ShopTip), 138 Drill oresses: Cuiting rosetteson the drill press (ShopTip), 67 Deep hole-drilling jigs, 67 Depth guides (Shop Tip), 65 Extensiontables,104, 111 |ig for drilling equally spacedholes, 60,61,64 Making wooden plugs (Shop Tip), 64 Pocket hole jigs, 61, 66 Sandingdrums (ShopTip),97 Tables auxiliary sanding tables,95, 98 tilting tablejigs, 61,63 V-block jigs, 61,6s Drills. See Drill presses; Electric drills Drum sanders: (ShopTip), 97 Drill presses Lathes,70,77 Electric drills: Center-drilling jigs, 61, 62 Depth guides(ShopTip), 65 Removablepower tool tables,104, 108109 Extension stands: Yises,104,112 Extension tables, 103 Band saws,102,104, 110 Drill presses, 104, 111 Routers attachedto saw tables (ShopTip), 107 SeealsoTables Fasteners, /ron t endpaper Featherboards, I 5, 32, 12i, 125126 Beveled, 123,127 Extended shaperfeatherboards, 15,32 Shimmed,123,127 Vacuum jigs, 34 Finishes: Controlling finish on brushes, J35 Drying supports,124, 135 Sprayingturntables, 122, 124, 136-137 Stackinghandles, 124, 135 Fuller,Ted,8-9

Glue racks, 80, 8l Wall-mounted, 80,85 Har dw are, fr ont endpaper Hinge mortises: Router jrgs, 14,22 Jigs: Planning,l0 See also namesof specifictools Joinery: Routers box joints, 12 corner half-lap jointjigs, 14,27 sliding dovetail roter jigs, 14, 26 Table saws tenoningjigs, 39, 57-59 Mortises; Plate joiners SeealsoDadoes; Jointers: V-block jigs for chamfers, 124, 132 Jointing: Routers, 2l

Band saws: Circle-cutting jigs, j7, 44-45 Extension tables,102, 104, 110 Miter jigs, j8,47 Taper jigs, j8,47 Wedge-making jigs, 38, 46 Bar clamos: Crossbirs for edge gldng, 80,82 Glue racks, 8O 8l wall-mounted, 80,85 Storage mobile storageracks,ll6, 118-119 storing clamps in a can (Shop Tip),119 Beeken, Bruce, 10-11 Belt sanders.See Sanders Benchdogs,79,91-92 Lamp supports,123,137 Bench grinders: Gouge-sharpeningjigs, 69, 72 Benchslaves, 104,112 Biscuit joints. SeePlate joiners Boxjoints, 12 Carcases: Carcase-squaring blocks, 79, 89 Chiselracks,ll5 Circles: Centerfinders, 124,132 Circle-cuttingjigs band saws,37,44-45 rotters, 15,20 sabersaws, 37,43 15,31 shapers, Circle-sanding jigs, 95, 96-97 jigs for lathes,69, 71 Faceplate-centering Scribing jigs jigs, 124,133 compass router compassjigs, 15,20 trammel points, 124, 133 Circular saws: Bladestorage box, 115,117 Kerfsplitters,38, 42 Miter and crosscutguide,37,41 Straightedgegtides, 38,42 Clamps,79 Framing clamps,78, 80,87 figs for clamping thin stock, 8O 84 Miter clamping blocks, 79, 88 Rope clamps for carving (Shop Tip), 88 Storageracks,114,116,118-119 Wedged clamping bars, 8Q 83 SeealsoBarclamps; Pipe clamps; Vises Curved cuts: Routers corner-rounding jigs, 14, 2j Sanding,98 Seealso Circles

Lathes: Center-finding jigs, 69, 71 Column fluters, 70, 75- 76 Faceplate-cent ering jrgs,69, 71 Gauges bowl depth gatges,70, 77 diameter gauges,69,73 Gouge-sharpen ing jrgs,69, 72 Sandingdrums,70,77 Spindleturning centering a spindle blank (ShopTip), 70 faster turning with preset calipers (ShopTip), 73 layott jigs, 69, 73 Preservlngsquarecorners (ShopTip), 74 Tailstocks for hollowed-out work, 68,70,74 Lumber: Sizes,backendpaper Storage racks,ll6, 120,121 Truing uneven boards, 39, 53 Mortises: Routers adjustable mortising jigs, i4, 28 hinge-mortisin g jrgs, 14, 22 movable-jaw mortising jigs, .14, 29

Panels, raised: Routerjigs, 8-9,14,24 Table sawjigs, 3t 52 Parsons, Jeff,l0- I 1 Pipe clamps: Crossbarsfor edge gluing,80,82 Extenders,80, 86 doubling up pipe clamps (ShopTip), 86


Storage mobile storageracks,118-119 storing clamps in a can (ShopTip), lJ9 wall racks, 1.16 Planes: Clamping long workpieces, 128 Honing jigs (ShopTip), 139 Planing jigs for thin stock, 124, lj1 Running guides for short stock, J30 Shootingboards,124,134 Plate joiners: 103,105 Stands, Plywood: Carriers, 123,130 Storageracks, 116,120 Push blocks, 123, 125 Push sticks,123, 125,126 Radial arm saws: Auxiliary fence and table molding fixtve,39,54 Sanding jigs, 95, 99 Taper jigs,48 Roller stands, 103 Adiustable, 104,113 Temporary (Shop Tip), 113 Rosettes: Cutting rosetteson the drill press (Shop Tip), 67 Routers: Adjustableedgeguides,15,25 Auxiliary sub-bases(Shop Tip), 13,21 Bit storagerack, I 15 Circles adjustable circle-cutting jigs, 15,20 jigs, 15,20 compass Column flrters, 70, 75-76 Corner-rounding jigs, 14, 23 Dadoes adjustable dadoingjigs, 15, l9 jigs for evenly spaceddadoes, 13,17 quick-setupdadoingjigs, 15, l8 T-squarejigs,15,16 _ Jolnery box joints, 12 corner halfJap jointjigs, 14,27 sliding dovetail jigs, 14,26 Mortises adjustablemortising jigs, 14,28 hinge-mortising jigs, U, 22 movable-jawmortising jigs, 14,29 jigs,8-9, 14,24 Panel-raising Tables removable power tool tables, 104 108109 table/cabinets, 10i, 106107 tablesattached to the table saw (ShopTip), r07 Vacuum templates,35

Sabersaws: Circle-cutting jigs, 37, 43 Edge guides miter and crosscut gtide, 37,41 Removablepower tool tables, 104. 108-109 Safetydevices, 13,32, 33, 123, 125-127 Sanders: Circle-sanding jigs, 95,9G97 Gang sanding, 96 Sanding: Blocks. 94 contoured, 95,100-101 wood sanding blocks (Shop Tip), 100 Drill oresses auxiliary sanding tables,95 98 sanding drums (Shop Tip), 97 Folding sandpaper(Shop Tip), l0l Lathe sanding drums, 70, 77 Radial arm saws sandingjigs, 95, 99 Thin stock, 99 SeealsoSanders Sandpaper: (ShopTip), I0I Folding sandpaper Sawhorses, 124, 128-129 (Shop Tip), 129 Padding sawhorses Saws: Back saws sizing boards for crosscuts,3Z 40 Handsawholders, 116,117 SeealsoBand saws;Circular saws; Radial arm saws;Saber saws:Table saws Shapers: Circle-cutting jigs, 15,31 Featherboards, 15,32 Guards,13,33 Shop Tips: Clamps, 86, 88,92, 119 Drilling, 62,64,65,67 Lathes,70,73,74 Planes,139 16,2l Routers, Sanding, 97,100,101 Sawhorses, 129 Tablesand stands,107, 113 Table saws,49, 53, 55,59 Tools. i36 Square: Checking,backendpaper Tables,103 Band saws extension tables,102, 104, 110 Drill presses auxiliary sanding tables,95, 98 extension tables,104, 111 ti-lting table jigs, 67, 63 V-block jigs, 61,65 Electric drills removable tables, 104, 108-109 Plateioiner stands,103,105

Routers attachedto saw tables (ShopTip), 107 removable power tool tables, I04, 108109 table/cabinets,103, 106-107 Sabersaws removable tables,104, 108-109 Table saws routers attached, (Shop Tip), 107 shop-made inserts (Shop Tip), a9 Seea/soWorkbenches Table saws: Blade height gauges,8, 49 Bladestorage box, 115,117 Board-straighteningjigs, 39, 53 Cove-cutting jigs, j9, 56 Crosscutjigs, 36, 38, 50-51 Crosscuttingwide panels (Shop Tip), 53 Miter gauges angle-settingjigs (Shop Tip), 59 extensions(Shop Tip), 55 Miter jigs, 39, 50 Raisedpanel jigs, 39, 52 Routers attachedto saw tables (ShopTip), 107 Shop-madetableinserts(Shop Tip), 49 Switches auxiliary switches,123, 131 Tables routers attachedto saw tables (ShopTip), ]07 shop-made inserts (Shop Tifl, a9 Taper jigs,48 Tenoning jigs, 39,57, 58-59 Push sticks SeealsoFeatherboards: Templates: Vacuum templates,35 Tools, backendpaper Lubricatingtools (ShopTip), 136 Storage,I 15 chiselracks,ll5 handsawholders, 716,117 tool trays, l.l5 Seealso Clamps;Drill presses; Electric drills; Jointers; Lathes;Planes;Plate joiners; Routers; Sanders;Saws; Shapers Turning tools: ing jigs, 69, 72 Gouge-sharpen

Vacuum jigs, 34-35 Vacuum screeningramps, 124, 137 Vises: Extension stands,104, 112 Wood-carver's vises,8O 9J Wood. See Lumber; Plywood Workbenches: Bench stops, 29, 90 Gripping thin stock (Shop Tip),92 Lamp supports, 123, 137 SeealsoBenchdogs;Tables


Theeditors wishto thank thefollowing ROUTING AND SHAPING IIGS Adjustable IL; American Tool Cos., Lincoln,NE; Black& Decker/Elu ClampCo.,Chicago, PowerTools,Towson, MD; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Troy, Ml/WainbeeLtd.,Montreal,Que.; Guelph,Ont.; De-Sta-Co, FreudWestmore Tools,Ltd.,Mississauga, Ont.; LeeValleyToolsLtd.,Ottawa, Ont.; (jig on pp. 34-35), Sears, Roebuck and Co.,Chicago, IL; Shopsmith, Inc.,Montreal,Que.;PatrickSpielman FishCreek, WI; VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton, NC and Louisville, KY CUTTINGJIGS Adjustable IL; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, ClampCo.,Chicago, Guelph,Ont.; De-Sta-Co, Troy, Ml/WainbeeLtd.,Montreal,Que.;Fisher Hill Products, Inc.,Fitzwilliam, NH; FreudWestmore Tools,Ltd., Mississauga, Ont.; HitachiPowerToolsU.S.A.Ltd.,Norcross, GA; FrankKlausz(jig on pp. 58-59), Frank's Cabinet Shop,Inc.,Pluckemin, NJ; Sandvik Saws and ToolsCo.,Scranton, PA; (jig on p. 46), SouthWoodbury,VT and Rancho DaveSawyer and JoanSawyer Fe,CA; Santa Sears, Roebuck and Co.,Chicago, IL; Shopsmith, Inc.,Montreal,Que.;Skil PowerToolsCanada, Markham,Ont.;VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton, NC and Louisville, KY DRILLINGIIGS Adjustable ClampCo.,Chicago, IL; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Guelph,Ont.; Sears, Roebuck and Co.,Chicago, IL; VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton, NC and Louisville, KY TURNINGIIGS Adjustable ClampCo.,Chicago, IL; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Guelph,Ont.; LeeValleyToolsLtd.,Ottawa, Ont.;VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton,NC and Louisville, KY

(jigonp.8s), (jig Bilt Bivona H".:1,,X:)glil?,rc"t#t:tJS,Iirc,sr,,r.*t'u collins onp.84),

LostMountainEditions, Ltd.,Sequim, WA; LeeValleyToolsLtd.,Ottawa, Ont. SANDINGIIGS AmericanTool Cos., Lincoln,NE; Black& Decker/Elu PowerTools,Towson, MD; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Guelph,Ont.;VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton,NC and Louisville, KY TOOL EXTENSIONS AND TABLES Adjustable ClampCo.,Chicago, IL; American Tool Cos.,Lincoln,NE; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Guelph,Ont.; Hitachi PowerToolsU.S.A. Ltd.,Norcross, GA; LeeValleyToolsLtd.,Ottawa,Ont.; Steiner-Lamello A.G. Switzerland/Colonial SawCo.,Kingston, MA; VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton,NC and Louisville, KY STORAGEDEVICES Adjustable ClampCo.,Chicago, IL; American Tool Cos.,Lincoln,NE; GreatNeckSawMfrs. Inc. (BuckBros.Division),Millbury, MA; Leonard Lee(rackon p. l2l), LeeValleyToolsLtd., Ottawa, Ont.; Sandvik Saws and ToolsCo.,Scranton, PA;VermontAmericanCorp.,Lincolnton,NC and Louisville, KY SHOPAIDS Adjustable ClampCo.,Chicago, IL; Campbell Hausfeld, Harrison,OH; DeltaInternational Machinery/Porter-Cable, Guelph,Ont.; Hitachi PowerToolsU.S.A. Ltd.,Norcross, GA; TaylorDesign Group,Inc.,Dallas, TX; VermontAmerican NC and Louisville, KY Corp.,Lincolnton, Thefollowingpersons alsoassisted in thepreparation of this book: LorraineDor6,Rjean Garand(Atelierd'Eb6nisterie R6jean GarandEnr.,St-Rdmi, Que.),GraphorConsultation, ClaudeMartel,Geneviive Monette,Alain Morcel (LesR6alisations Loeven-Morcel, Montreal,Que.)

Cover RobertChartier 6,7 RobertHolmes 8,9 MichaelMorissette 10,ll Ron Levine


Utility knife tharpenedLipacoree lineaon woodmore preciseiy _-<--b
Combination 6quare For checkin4or markinq 45' or 90" an4lea;detachable blade doublee ae ruler or For checktn7or meaeunn690' an4lee on a flat surface; can aleo be ueed ae a ol,ratqhLedqe

izi:f 67

Uaeful for eetLtnq an4leeof machtne

etraiqhtedqe, one pointt eervea aa the pivot and the other acilbee a circle or an.arc around it. 9liding bevel Adjuet e to copy any an7le, then 1;otranefer or mea7ure i[. 7lade al;oree tn handle

9traightedge For precieion markin1 of etrai4hL ltneeand checkinqflat eurfacea. Thick metal ed4ee are machtnedetrai4ht;

French curue For drawing curved linea on a workptece


. When plylvood, using layouttheelements of yourproject onthe sheet for economy and pattern. best appearance of grain o Tocutsheet materials, usecarbide{ipped blades withat least 10 teethperinch. oAlways cut plywood withthegood face up to avoid tearout. r When fastening edges of sheet materials, usescrews that areno larger in diameter thanone-quarter of the sheet's th ickness, Drillpilotholes to prevent splitting. . Store sheet materials flat or wellsuooorted vertically: do notstore themat an angle.

CHECKIN AG SOUARE Deforeuornqa cquare,makeeure iL ia accurate. Workinq on a large sheet of paper,draw a baaeline ueinqa eLraiqhLedqe. (For a combinatton or t ry zquare,uee the perfecLlyetratqht edqeof a board ae the baeelrne.) Flace Lhe equare wtth one arm flueh wit;hLhe ltne,and draw anoLher linealonqthe outetdeof Lheother arm. Fltpl;heaquare over,keepinq Lhe eame arm flueh on the baeeltne and repeal;,Thbtwo lineeyoujuet. drew ehouldbe per-fecLly parallel.To true a carpenlter'e equareugea cenlier punchta tap Lhe
gquare on iLa outeide corner Lo move the arme cloeer toqether, or on iLe inoide corner to move

the arme aparL.TeaL a4ain, and repeat until the arme are perfecLlyequare.


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N()MINAL AND ACTUAL SIZES FOR SOFTW()OD LUMBER N()MINAL (INCHES) I-by-2 1-by-3 1-by-4 1-by-6 1-by-8 1-by-10 I-by-12 ACTUAL (rNcHES) Surfaced dry
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ACTUAL (surfaced twosides)

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NOMINAL 0NcHES) Z-by-2 2-by-4 2-by-6 Z-by-8 2-by-I O 2-by-12 4-by-4

ACTUAL flNCHES) Surfaced dry It/z-by-Ir/z It/z-by-3r/z Ir/z-by-5r/z rh It/z-by-7 It/z-by-9rh I\/z-bY-IIrh 3r/z-by-3t/z

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