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1 SURFACE PREPARATING AND PAINTING 1.1 WEATHER CONDITIONS

Full advantage should be taken of weather conditions to carry out painting when the weather is favorable. Paints should never be applied on a wet surface. Not only should painting be avoided in rain, sleet or fog, but also attention must be paid to the presence of condensation on the surface. Generally, painting should be done at over 0 -5C and below 85% R.H. condition. However, below 5C some paints such as epoxy slow down dramatically or even stop curing. Other paints such as chlorinated rubber, acrylic and vinyl paints are quite applicable at temperatures even below OC if the surface is clean and free from ice or frost. Painting should not be carried out when the surface temperature is less th an 3C above the dew point, no matter what the R.H. is at that time. [2]

Figure 1.1 Weather conditions

1.2 PREPARATION AND STORAGE

Some paint components, although perfectly stable at normal temperature, will react together at higher temperatures, causing thickening etc. Some paints such as water based paints and emulsions are affected by frost Because of this, paint should not be stored where temperatures can become excessively high or low. When paints are left standing they normally tend to separate slightly. This is caused by different specific gravities of the ingredients. Therefore, before using, all paint must be carefully stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Stirring should be done from time to time in order to prevent such separation while painting. Once opened, some paints rapidly form a skin on the surface. Generally the quick-drying types have this tendency, which is of course not a fault of the paint but is due to the natural process of drying. The skin must be removed before painting. This precaution applies particularly when spraying the material, because small particles of skin would soon clog the gun. An well done surface preparation before painting is compulsory because otherwise the paint will not adhere well and will result in peeling and needing of subsequent recoatings. There are two different situations of preparing the surface; the first is the preparation of bare steel surfaces and the second is the case when the paint must be applied on an old painted surface. [1]

1.3 SURFACE PREPARATION FOR A MAJOR RENEWAL

1. Washing with fresh water to remove all dirt and salt contamination. 2. Degreasing using a solvent cleaner. 3. Chipping rusted surface 4. Cleaning by blasting. 5. Remove dust, dirt and debris with vacuum, clean with soft brush or by blowing with compressed air. At the same time take off all water and moisture presented on the surface. 6. Clean and dry surface must be painted with primer paint as soon as possible to avoid fast rusting of the unprotected surface under the influence of air, salt and water. 7. Surface preparation prior to finish painting includes removing oil, grease, salts, water, rust, chalk marks and other contaminants. [4]

1.4 SURFACE PREPARATION FOR A REPAIR

1. Sweeping of the surface 2. Washing with fresh water to remove all dirt and salt contamination. 3. Degreasing using a solvent cleaner. 4. Exposed steel and corrosion should be hand prepared by wire brushing, hammering power tool cleaning or spot blasting. 5. Ensure the area is clean and well dry before paint application. 6. Clean and dry surface must be painted with primer paint as soon as possible to avoid fast rusting of the unprotected surface under the influence of air, salt and water. [4]

Figure 1.2 Respirator which we have to use in time of preparing areas for painting

Surface preparation is the single MOST IMPORTANT variable in determining the service life of any coating. Proper surface preparation insures maximum adhesion to any surface. Even the best paint available today will not adhere to an excessively dirty or greasy surface, or if moisture and contaminates penetrate behind the paint film. Proper surface preparation will decrease the chance of contamination, discoloration, inconsistent gloss or improper film formation of a finish coat.

2 METHODS OF APPLYING THE PAINT 2.1 SPRAY GUNS 2.1.1 CONVENTIONAL SPRAY

The paint in the container is drawn through a nozzle by a current of pressurized air. This is a very fast method of painting but is unsuitable for use in confined spaces. Goggles should always be worn when using a spray gun and vapor should be quickly dispersed by good ventilation when the gun is used under cover. Suitable for most paints but the paint must be thinned before spraying. [2]

Figure 2.1.1 - AOM ASTURO ECO SX-HVLP, Gravity spray gun with 1.0mm, 1.4mm, and 1.8mm set-ups. Includes 600cc easy to clean aluminum cup, cup filter, optional internal air cap, and air control. Stainless steel fluid fittings and carrying case

2.1.2 AIRLESS SPRAY

Suitable for most paints but while some paints must be applied by airless spray; others are unsuited to this method. While it is probably the fastest method of all, it is also the most complicated as different paints require different sized nozzle. Paint is delivered to the gun by means of an air or electrically operated fluid pump. Its the best method, gives good film thickness (100 -150). Using this method for painting large places gives the great economy of time as compared with others. But then using this method it is necessary to follow some rules such as: - Always gun to be kept perpendicular to the place painted. If this wouldnt be done we can achieve excessive paint from one of sides and lack from other and at the end thin coverage and dry spray. - Distance between gun and surface to be no closer then 45 cm and no more than 60 cm. This is to avoid dry spraying which means that from bigger distance from gun to surface lost of solvents coming more and coating forms semi-dry dust on the surface which has only light adhesion. - If the air temperature more than 25 degrees distance from gun to surface to be shorter (30 40 cm) and to be used nozzle with small spray angle. Also if necessary, it can be added thinner but no more than 5% of volume. [7]

Figure 2.1.2 Logo of the C.A.Technologies company. One of the World Wide Leaders in the Airless spray technology

Figure 2.1.3 Principal scheme of C.A. Technologies Air-AssistAirless (AAA) Cougar Gun. This gun provides an excellent finish on wood and metal at production speeds with +65% T.E.

Spray machine operators on ship use spray guns to coat metal, wood, ceramic, fabric, paper and other type of materials with paint and other coating solutions. Following a formula, operators fill the equipments tanks with a mixture of paints or chemicals, adding prescribed amounts of solution. They adjust nozzles on the spray guns to obtain the proper dispersion of the spray and hold or position the guns to direct the spray onto the article. Operators also check the flow and viscosity of the paint or solution and visually inspect the quality of the coating. When products are drying, these workers often must regulate the temperature and air circulation in drying ovens.

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2.2 BRUSHES 2.2.1 FLAT BRUSHES

Use of these is suitable for works anywhere that a roller or spray is unsuitable or when the paint is unsuited to other means of application. Sizes of this type of brushes could be different and depends on type of work. [8]

Figure 2.2.1 - Natural bristle, all purpose brushes for use with thickened dye, fabric paints, silk dyes, wax, afterfix, etc

2.2.2 FITCHES

Small flat brushes which are always used for such jobs as painting in very narrow holes and corners, and also for painting names, numbers and other small work. Although usually designated small and large there is a big range of numbers extending from No.2 to No.16. [8]

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Figure 2.2.2 Different sizes of fitches. From 2 up to 16

2.2.3 STENCIL BRUSHES

Although seldom found on board the average steamer, these brushes are worth a small extra cost. They are about the same size as a shaving-brush, but the ends of the bristles are cut off to give a flat surface. Sizes are in inches and indicate diameter of bristle surface. The, range extends from about 12mm to 36mm. But it should to be remembered that brush gives 50-75 (microns} film thickness, not 150 such as airless spray. So, then using the brash it is necessary to apply 2-3 coats of paint to reach necessary film thickness. [8]

Figure 2.2.3 Types of Stencil Brushes

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2.2.4 STOWING OF USED BRUSHES

The method in which brushes are stowed away when not in use will determine their future usefulness. The usual practice is to stand them in a tin of water, but this will cause them to become crooked and twisted, especially those of an inferior quality. It is better to suspend them in the water, not only to preserve their shape, but also to keep the bristles free from grit in the bottom of the tin. Brushes set in metal should not be immersed in water, but placed in linseed oil, or a mixture of oil and turpentine. If not to be used for some time, it is better to wash a brush out with turpentine, soap and water, but on no account use soda or this will rum the bristles.

If through neglect, a brush has become hard and stiff with paint, it can be softened again by immersion in a paint remover such as pint off. This will take some two or three hours and should be followed by washing in turpentine, then in soap and water. [6]

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Brushes are usually devices made of wire or other types of filaments used for cleaning, painting, grooming or used to scratch of the roughness or burrs on a surfaces and a variety of other jobs. Synthetic bristles on brushes are most commonly found. These are usually made out of wire, nylon, polyester or a combination of these materials. Brushes can also be made out of animal hair such as pig, horse, and squirrel fur. Selecting and caring for brushes is as important as painting with them.

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3 ROLLERS

Paint rollers are often used instead of brushes, particularly when painting large, flat surfaces. Rollers may be lambskin or nylon covered and should be used in conjunction with properly designed paint trays into which the paint is poured. The tray is on the tilt and after dipping the roller into the paint; it is run up and down on the dry part to ensure an even distribution across the whole of the roller besides removing excess paint. [3]

Figure 3.1 Paint roller

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3.1 HOW TO USE PAINT ROLLER 3.1.1 STEPS

1.

Buy a sturdy roller frame; you'll be pressing on it reasonably hard.

Get one with a threaded end in the handle so you can add an extension pole. Pick the right sleeve for the job. Smoother walls take a shorter nap (the length of the hairs); heavier textures such as plaster or stucco need a longer nap (3/4 inch or more).

2.

Start first with a brush in corners and around trim. (See "How to

Use a Paintbrush.")

3.

Get your roller ready. Before dipping the sleeve into the paint,

dampen it with water (for latex) or solvent (for alkyd). After dipping it into paint, roll off enough paint so that it doesn't drip.

4.

Lay down the paint in the shape of an "N" or "M", then go back

over it in straight columns, being careful to flatten the paint ridges as you go. On walls, don't feel you have to go from floor to ceiling - just work down in a general fashion.

5.

Get as close as you can to the corners without scraping the edge of

the roller against the corner. Keep a brush handy if you do, in order to smooth paint out.

6.

Wrap the roller sleeve in foil, plastic wrap, or a damp rag - or

immerse it in water (if you're painting with latex) if you're going to stop painting for more than a few minutes.

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7.

Clean both the roller frame and the sleeve well if you plan to use

them again. Squeeze as much paint out of the sleeve as you can, then rinse, squeeze, and rinse until the liquid (water or solvent) is pretty clear.[9]

3.1.2 TIPS

Standard rollers are 9 inches, and are actually two parts: the roller itself (the frame), and the cover, or sleeve - the part that gets wet with paint.

Rollers are almost never appropriate for woodwork, such as cabinetry or passage doors (even flat ones). The exception is floors, whether using paint, stain or clear finish topcoats.

For most projects, a paint tray is fine. But for larger projects, you can get a framed screen that hangs into a 5-gallon bucket.

For larger projects, you may want to buy or rent a "power roller", which pumps paint directly to the roller so you don't have to dip it. Be aware, however, that the quality of these products can vary.

You can buy rollers that are shorter and thinner for getting into difficult areas, such as behind toilets or into odd corners. [10]

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After analyze and understood all information which we have write above we decide to make a small conclusion about working with rollers, and we would like to say that rollers are supplied with sort of short or long handles and provide a very quick method of covering large surfaces but if used without a tray can also be somewhat wasteful method of painting. After use, roller should be cleaned with the same thinner as used for thinning the paint, washed and rolled out as dry as possible, being fully dried before storing. Painting by paint roller is more quickly than by brush but film thickness is the same. So, then painting done by roller all the above said properties for the brush to be taken in to mention.

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4 M/V GRANDE PORTOGALLO

Figure 4.1 M/V Grande Portogallo. Built 2002, 37726 Grt, Italian flag. Inward bound in the River Schelde, passing Terneuzen on 18th August 2005. Bound for berth 1335/1337, Verrebroekdok, Antwerp.

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4.1 PAINTING PROJECT OF CAR DECKS 12

The chipped places will be applied with coat and prime paint and then all compass deck will be painted with epoxy paint by airless spray. Thinner has not to be applied when using epoxy paint. 4.1.1 CALCULATION OF THE CAR DECKS 12S AREA (A) Total area to be painted of car decks no: 12 is 5100 m2 .

Figure 4.2 Plan of car deck 12

Paint UMEGUARD SX RED BROWN CS511 UMEGUARD SX GREY CS614 EPICON MARINE FINISH GREEN CS514 (2.5G 3/5)

Type Under coat Prime

Quantity necessary for 1m2 0.312 LTR 0.312 LTR

Drying time t=20C 17 HOURS 17 HOURS 8 HOURS

Finish 0.312 LTR (last coat)

Table 4.1 - Paint which will be used

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The data in the table are given for the mean film thickness 125 . Under coat and prime paint will be applied by paint rollers because only about 5% (255.0 m2) of deck is rusted.

4.1.2 CALCULATION OF THE TOTAL QUANTITY OF PAINT REQUIRED Q1 = q1 . A = 0,312 x 255.0 = 79.56 LTR Q2 = q2 . A = 0,312 x 255.0 = 79.56 LTR Q3 = q3 . A = 0,312 x 5100.0 = 1591.20 LTR Q = Q1+ Q2+ Q3 = 79.56+79.56+1591.20 = 1750.32LTR Q TOTAL quantity of paint which will be used, LTR Q1 quantity umegard red brown necessary to be used, LTR Q2 quantity umegard grey necessary to be used, LTR Q3 quantity epicon marine green necessary to be used, LTR q1 LTR/m2 q2 q3 quantity of umegard grey necessary for painting of 1m2, LTR/m2 quantity of umegard epicon marine green necessary for painting of quantity of umegard red brown necessary for painting of 1m2,

1m2, LTR/m2 A chipped area, m2 A all area for painting, m2

The total paint required is 1750.32 litres. Calculation of the time required to complete the painting: One man working with paint roller can apply paint on 20-30 m2 per hour (25 m2/h average). In the same conditions when using airless spray he can apply paint on 40-50 m2 per hour (45 m2/h average) T1 = A/ t = 255 / 25 = 10.2 HRS T2 = A/ t = 255 / 25 = 10.2 HRS

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T3 = A / t = 5100 / 45 = 113.3 HRS T = T1 + T2 + T3 = 10.2 + 10,2 + 113,3 = 133.7 HRS T T1 T2 T3 all spent time time for applying of umegard red brown (under coat) time for applying of umegard grey (prime coat) time for applying of epicon marine green (last coat)

All spent time for painting is 133.7 HRS (if one man works). Deck crew of M/V GRANDE PORTOGALLO No: 106 is 8 that including bosun. With all crew total spent time for painting is 16.7 HRS.

4.1.3 CALCULATION OF THE DRYING TIME

As it seen from table after applying first coat (under coat) paint required time for properly drying. At outer air temperature 20C it is needed 17 hours. For prime paint it needs 17 hours. So before applying finish paint it must be pass 34 hours (17+17). Last coat will be applied by airless spray. This type of paint also needs 8 hours for drying. The total drying time is 42 hours (17+17+8). Time to complete painting is 58.7 hours (42 HRS + 16.7HRS) by all deck crew.

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5 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS DURING SURFACE PREPARATION AND PAINTING 5.1 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS DURING SURFACE

PREPARATION

During washing by fresh water under pressure always to be worn:

Waterproof overall; Gloves; Hard hat with visor; Earmuffs; Wellington boots. During chipping or grit blasting:

Leather gloves; Overall (medium or heavy); Safety shoes; Safety helmet; Respiration protective mask; Goggles; Earmuffs. All this clothes to be worn with the aim to protect the body and

respiration system as maximum as it possible from any injure and traumas.

Figure 5.1 The main slogan which we have to use, working on ship

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5.2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS DURING PAINTING

Special protective cream (to prevent contamination of skin by paint, which could be easily removed by water and soap).

Goggles; Respirator; Protective gloves; Overall; Safety shoes. Paint is a flammable liquid, so the painting is carried out there should be

no naked lights and around of painting zone must be put warning notices. If the product comes into contact with the skin, it must be washed thoroughly with lukewarm water and soap. If the eyes are contaminated, rinse with water and seek medical advice immediately medical attention to be taken If painting is carried out in enclosed spaces to be insure that were is good ventilation.

5.3 SAFETY RULES WHEN WORKING WITH AIR PRESSURE SYSTEMS (BLASTING EQUIPMENT, AIRLESS SPRAYING SYS. ETC)

Never point the gun at any part of own body or at another person; Dont change nozzles before shutting off the pump and releasing system pressure;

Always to be sure that hoses are in good condition before starting work; Every time the working pressure mustnt exceed maximum recommended pressure for any component of system;

When stop spraying the trigger must be locked and the pressure relieved from the system;

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For high pressure systems not to be used standard hoses and hardwire only special high pressure fittings to be used;

For preventing static sparking and therefore fire or explosion airless spray to be grounded; With the same aim any solvent to be sprayed through the nozzle tip.

Nozzle tip to be taken off. . Painting and preparation for painting occupies a large proportion of shipboard labour time and care is necessary to make this apparently simple operation as safe as possible.

5.4 DANGERS FROM FIRE AND EXPLOSION

The majority of paints contain flammable organic solvents. As soon as a paint container is opened, solvent vapours are released.

5.5 FLASH POINT

The flash point is the lowest temperature at which a liquid gives off sufficient vapour to form a flammable mixture in contact with air:If the flash point of the paint is lower than or close to the temperature of the air there is a very real risk of explosion and fire. If the flash point exceeds the air temperature then there is no risk of explosion but there is a risk of fire.

5.6 SMOKING REGULATIONS

As such, therefore, a strict no smoking, no naked flames, no cigarettes and no matches policy must be enforced near any area where paint is being applied or stored. Precautions should also be taken to avoid sparks from

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electrical appliances or caused by metal to metal contact. If a fire involving paint does occur:Do NOT extinguish with water, as paint solvents float on water, and this helps to spread fire. Use a dry chemical, foam or CO2 extinguisher. Protect yourself from fumes with breathing apparatus.

Figure 5.2 Everywhere on ship you can see such slogans

5.7 SKIN AND EYE CONTACT

If paint is spilled the following precautions should be taken:Ventilate the area to remove the fumes. Mop up all spilt paint with absorbent material, ensuring that all materials used to mop up the paint are disposed of in closed metal containers. The following precautions should be taken to prevent paint coming into contact with skin and eyes. Wear sensible working clothes that cover as much of the body as possible. Always wear gloves and eye protection. This also applies when chipping prior to painting.

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Do not touch your mouth or eyes with your gloves. Read and observe precautionary notices on paint containers. Eyes are particularly sensitive, so if you are splashed in the eyes, by paint or thinners, flood the eyes immediately with fresh water for at least 10 minutes. It maybe necessary to seek medical advice if eyes become abnormally inflamed. If paint should splash on your skin, remove it with soap and water or an industrial cleaner. NEVER USE SOLVENT. Despite these precautions paint can still come into contact with the skin or eyes (e.g. spray mist, excessive splashing), so a non-greasy barrier cream is recommended for all exposed skin. Remember the objective is to avoid skin contact. If your clothes become soaked in paint, change them immediately and thoroughly wash the affected garments with soap and water.

5.8 PRECAUTION FOR PAINT FUMES

The inhalation of solvent fumes, dust, paint vapours must be avoided. The following precautions should be followed:Ensure that ventilation is available to remove solvent fumes. If spaces are difficult to ventilate efficiently, wear an air fed hood/mask. If these are not available make every effort to increase ventilation and or reduce times spent in the space. Take care where the fumes are being vented so as not to affect persons in adjacent spaces.

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5.9 ACTION IF AFFECTED BY PAINT FUMES

18.7. Remember that solvent fumes are heavier than air, they push breathable air upwards. They can flow down drains and low ventilation ducts. If dizziness, drunkenness or headaches are experienced this could indicate the painter is being affected by solvent fumes. Move into fresh air immediately and do not return until the ventilation has been improved. If breathing fumes results in the collapse of the painter he should be carefully moved into fresh air and allowed to recover gradually. Forced exercise is inadvisable. Never enter a space where fumes have or could have accumulated without breathing apparatus.

5.10 INHALATION OF PAINT SPRAY

The mist of paint particles created when spraying should not be inhaled. In well ventilated spaces a dust cartridge respirator can filter out these particles of paint effectively (replace the cartridge regularly) If ventilation is poor an air hood or mask is essential, if any doubt whatsoever exists wear an airfed hood/mask. If airfed hoods are not available every effort must be made to improve ventilation. Never filter spray mists through rags wrapped over the mouth, as rags can get soaked and allow paint to come into direct contact with the mouth. The rags are also rather inefficient filters.

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5.11 PAINT INGESTION

Food and drink should not be consumed, stored or prepared in areas where paint is being applied or stored. In case of accidental paint ingestion, medical attention should be obtained at the earliest opportunity.

5.12 PAINTING FROM STAGING AND ADDITIONAL PRECAUTIONS

1) Ensure precautions are taken to secure any ladders or staging and have crew wear safety harness.

2) When working on overside staging, all crewmen must wear safety harnesses and lifejackets. When working from paint raft or boat occupants must wear life jackets. A lifebuoy with lifeline must be standing by at each stage point. 3) When working in confined spaces, high places or overside, crew members must not work alone. This avoids the chance of an accident going un-noticed.

5.13 DANGEROUS FLUIDS; PAINT CLEANER AND THINNERS

Particular care must be taken to ensure dangerous fluids are used correctly and according to manufacturers instructions. Always use protective clothing (ie gloves & goggles) when handling such fluids. Ensure any spillage is properly cleaned up and neutralized with resultant waste safely disposed of. Ensure these fluids are securely stowed at all times.

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6 PAINTING OF THE CLOSED SPACES An Enclosed Space Check List should be completed before entering any tank by the Master or Chief Mate and by the person who is to enter. The following items are verified in the Section 1 of the Check List: 1. If the space has been properly ventilated and tested; 2. If arrangements to continue ventilation during occupancy have been made; 3. If rescue and resuscitation equipment is available for immediate use at the entrance to the tank; 4. If arrangements have been made for a person to be in constant attendance at the entrance to the tank; 5. If there is an adequate illumination. The person who is to enter the tank must complete Section 2 of the above written Check List; he must verify if: 1. The Master or Chief Mate have given the permission to enter the enclosed space; 2. He understands the arrangements made for communication with the person in attendance; 3. He understands that the space should be left immediately if any problem occurs; 4. He is familiar with the breathing apparatus to be used; 5. The breathing apparatus has been checked as follows: Adequacy of air supply; Low pressure audible alarm; Face mask, air supply and tightness. The number of persons entering a tank should be limited to those who actually need to work in this enclosed space. Protective clothing should be worn.

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Paints may contain toxic or irritant substances, so always all safety warnings given in the instruction manual should be read and followed. If the flash point of the paint is lower than the temperature of the air there is a risk of explosion and fire, so the flash point must exceed the temperature of the air (in this case there is no risk of explosion, but still there is a risk of fire). Therefore, not a person should be permitted to smoke or use a naked light in interior spaces during painting or until the paint has dried hard. During surface preparation , when chipping prior to painting, gloves and eye protection must be worn. If paint is spilled during painting operations, then: - The area must be well ventilated to avoid the possible risk of ignition of paint or gasoline fumes; - All spilt paint should be collected with absorbant material. Safe requirements: 1. Always follow all recommendations regarding the use of protective clothing and eyewear equipment. Wear sensible working clothes, that covers as much of the body as possible. Always wear gloves; an airfed hood / mask for face protection must be worn to avoid the inhalation of paint fumes. 2. Do not touch the mouth or eyes with the gloves. 3. Anyway, a breathing apparatus should be used when enter a tank against oxygen deficiency or toxic dangers, but it is also necessary to avoid the inhalation of solvent fumes, dust and paint vapours. 4. Never exceed the maximum working pressure of any component in the system. 5. The hands must be kept away from the gun nozzles to reduce the risk of bodily injury from high pressure fluid. operation of airless equipment include the following

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6. Before a blocked spray nozzle is removed pressure should be relieved from the system. 7. If paint has splashed on the skin, remove it with soap and water. Never use solvent. 8. If paint or thinner are splashed in eyes, they should be flooded immediately with fresh water for at least 10 minutes. It may be necessary to seek medical advice.