COSMETICS

By: Reniel A. Sales

 Definitions of Cosmetics :
• products used for the purposes of cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness or alternating one's appearance
• are substances used to enhance or protect the
appearance or odor of the human body. Cosmetics
include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes,
lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup,
permanent waves, hair colors, deodorants, baby
products, bath oils, bubble baths etc.
• Something superficial that is used to cover a deficiency
or defect.
• Serving to beautify the body, especially the face and hair.
• Serving to modify or improve the appearance of a
physical feature, defect, or irregularity:
• Any of several preparations (excluding soap) applied to
the human body for beautifying, preserving, or altering
the appearance or for cleansing, colouring, conditioning,
or protecting the skin, hair, nails, lips, eyes, or teeth
History Of Cosmetics
 An 1889 Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec painting of a woman
applying cosmetics to her face

 The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage is

found in Ancient Egypt around 4000 BC. The Ancient
Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans
and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing
poisonous mercury and often lead, which continues to be
used today. The Biblical book of Esther describes various
beauty treatments.

 In the western world, the advent of cosmetics was in the

middle ages, although typically restricted to use within the
upper classes.

 Many cosmetics survived the Middle Ages, and Crusaders

brought back rare Eastern oils and perfumes. In the
Renaissance, cosmetics, usually white-lead powder and
vermilion, were used extravagantly. From the 17th cent.
recipes and books on the toilette abounded. Professional
cosmetologists began to appear, and luxurious
prescriptions often included a bath in wine or milk.
Reaching its height in 1760, the use of cosmetics virtually
disappeared with the advent of the French Revolution.
• Cosmetic use was frowned upon at some points in
history. For example, in the 1800s, make-up was
used primarily by prostitutes, and Queen Victoria
publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and
acceptable for use by actors, only. Adolf Hitler told
women that face painting was for clowns and not for
the women of the Master Race.

• Many cosmetics survived the Middle Ages, and

Crusaders brought back rare Eastern oils and
perfumes. In the Renaissance, cosmetics, usually
white-lead powder and vermilion, were used
extravagantly. From the 17th cent. recipes and books
on the toilette abounded. Professional cosmetologists
began to appear, and luxurious prescriptions often
included a bath in wine or milk. Reaching its height in
1760, the use of cosmetics virtually disappeared with
the advent of the French Revolution.
• Many cosmetics survived the Middle Ages, and
Crusaders brought back rare Eastern oils and
perfumes. In the Renaissance, cosmetics, usually
white-lead powder and vermilion, were used
extravagantly. From the 17th cent. recipes and books
on the toilette abounded. Professional cosmetologists
began to appear, and luxurious prescriptions often
included a bath in wine or milk. Reaching its height in
1760, the use of cosmetics virtually disappeared with
the advent of the French Revolution.

• Many cosmetics survived the Middle Ages, and

Crusaders brought back rare Eastern oils and
perfumes. In the Renaissance, cosmetics, usually
white-lead powder and vermilion, were used
extravagantly. From the 17th cent. recipes and books
on the toilette abounded. Professional cosmetologists
began to appear, and luxurious prescriptions often
included a bath in wine or milk. Reaching its height in
1760, the use of cosmetics virtually disappeared with
the advent of the French Revolution.
• The year 1900 saw a revival of their use,
accompanied by the manufacture of beauty aids
on a scientific basis in France. Since then the
industry has grown to tremendous proportions
with products manufactured for every
conceivable use. In the United States, cosmetics
intended for interstate commerce are controlled
under the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
of 1938. Spearheaded by companies founded by
Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden, Estée
Lauder, and other women and by their male
counterparts, e.g., Charles Revson, the cosmetics
business flourished throughout the later 20th
century.

• By the beginning of the 21st cent. the cosmetics

industry was mostly run by large corporation.
And cosmetics were in widespread use in nearly
all societies around the world.
INDUSTRY TODAY
• The worldwide annual expenditures for cosmetics is
estimated at U.S. $18 billion. Of the major firms, the
oldest and the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded
by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French
Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by
Liliane Bettencourt 27.5% and Nestlé 26.4%, with
the remaining 46.1% are publicly traded). The
market was developed in the USA during the 1910s
by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max
Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just
before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.

• The cosmetic industry does not want to be regulated

by the government/FDA and has lobbied against this
throughout the years.
CRITICISM AND CONTROVERSY
• The popularity of cosmetics in the 20th century
has increased rapidly. Especially in the United
States, cosmetics are being used by girls at a
younger and younger age. Many companies
have catered to this expanding market by
introducing more flavored lipsticks and glosses,
cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly
packaging and marketing and advertising using
young models. The social consequences of
younger and younger beautification has had
much attention in the media over the last few
years.
• Criticism of cosmetics has come from a variety of sources, including
feminists, animal rights activists, books, and public interest groups.
There is a growing awareness and preference for cosmetics that are
without any toxic ingredients, especially those derived from
petroleum, SLS, and parabens.

• Numerous published reports have raised concern over the safety of

a few surfactants. SLS causes a number of skin issues including
dermatitis.
• Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis
in individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage
of the general population. Animal experiments have
shown that parabens have a weak estrogenic activity,
acting as xenoestrogens.
• Synthetic fragrances are widely used in consumers
products. Studies concluded from patch testing, show
synthetic fragrances are made of many allergic reaction
ingredients.
 Types of Cosmetics
The various forms of makeup include:
 Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip

luster, lip conditioner and lip boosters.


Foundation, used to color the face and conceal flaws
to produce an impression of health and youth.
Usually a liquid, cream, powder or mousse.
 Powder, or face illuminator used to set the
foundation, giving a matte finish.
• Rouge, blush or blusher, cheek stain used to color
the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones. This
comes in powder, cream and gel forms.
 Bronzer, used to create a more tanned or sun-kissed

look.
 Mascara and lash extender, lash conditioner
used to enhance the eyelashes. Can be of
different colors and even waterproof.
 Eye liner and eye shadow, eye shimmer and
glitter eye pencils as well as different color
pencils used to color and emphasize the eyelids
(larger eyes are a sign of youth).
 Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and
powders are used to fill in and define the brows.
 Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and
toenails.
 Concealer, a type of thick opaque makeup used
to cover pimples, various spots and
inconsistencies in the skin.
• Also included in the general category of cosmetics
are skin care products. These include creams and
lotions to moisturize the face and body, sunscreens
to protect the skin from damaging UV radiation, and
treatment products to repair or hide skin
imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under
eyes, etc.). Cosmetics can also be described by the
form of the product, as well as the area for
application.

• Cosmetics can be liquid or cream

• Broadway actor Jim Brochu applies make-up before
the opening night of a play.
• Eye shadow being applied
• While there is assurance from the largest cosmetic companies
that their various ingredients are safe, there is a growing
preference for cosmetics that are without any "synthetic"
ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum. Once a
niche market, certified organic products are becoming more
mainstream.

• A dangerously large amount of lead and lead based products

continue to be used in cosmetics, especially in lipsticks, by
such companies as MAC, Dior, Body Shop, L'Oreal, Revlon
and Burt's Bees. This issue occurs mainly in the USA &
Canada, because the FDA, or Food and Drug Administration
fails to regulate the industry to a reasonable extent, only
recommending that less than 1 ppm of lead is used.

• Ingredients' listings in cosmetics are highly regulated in many

countries. The testing of cosmetic products on animals is a
subject of some controversy. It is now illegal in the
United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and Belgium, and a ban
across the European Union is due to come into effect in 2009
 Types of cosmetics include;
• cold cream, night cream, hand cream, eye cream,
astringent, after-shave lotion, hand lotion, body lotion,
suntan lotion, talcum, tooth powder, bath powder, face
powder, eyebrow pencil, mascara, eye shadow, eye liner,
rouge, blusher, toner, lip slicker, face slicker, lipstick, lip
rouge, lip liner, lip gloss, nail polish, powder base,
moisturizer, foundation, loose powder, pressed powder,
bronzer, pancake makeup, leg makeup, body paint, solid
perfume, liquid sachet, toilet water, cologne, eau de
cologne, friction pour le bain (French), bath salts, bath oil,
bath gel, royal jelly, brilliantine, pomade, hair tonic, hair dye,
hair bleach, mouthwash, liquid dentifrice, nail polish
remover, moustache wax, facial pack, mud pack,
toothpaste, shampoo, conditioner, cream rinse, hair
mousse, styling gel, hair spray, shaving soap, shaving
cream, shaving foam, depilatory, deodorant, antiperspirant.
Assistants of Beauty
 What kinds of cosmetics were
there?
Scented waters:
 Usually the leftovers from distilling essential oils from
aromatic substances (e.g. cinnamon bark, cloves).
Used for scenting other cosmetics, but also for
washing. Comparable to rose water, orange water
etc.
Scented spirits:
 Made from alcohol and aromatic substances, such as
various citrus fruits, Mediterranean herbs, roses,
sassafras, Asian spices (e.g. cardamom), violets.
Used for scenting other cosmetics.
Essential oils:
 Aromatic oils from various plants, e.g. the ones
mentioned above, linden flowers, tuberose and other
flowers. Used for scenting other cosmetics, e.g.
pomads.

Scented vinegars:
 Made from the aforementioned plants, but also elder,
amber, musk. Probably for skin cleansing and/or to
compensate the soap used for washing the hair. You
know, the acidic/basic thing.
Various skincare and cleansing substances
 such as cleansing milk, lotions, creams etc.

Hair pomads
 Made from cleaned pork fat and wax.

Whilte and red paints:

 Decorative cosmetics. In contrast to modern
foundation, white paints are really white, red paints
really red, e.g. scarlet. Both usually come as powder,
or as pellets or in pots for ease of transport.
 Lip Pomads – including red ones.
 Washing powders, pastes and Soaps
 Tooth powders and tinctures
 Wig powder
 Hair colourings
 Mouth-wash, pastilles
Kinds Of Cosmetics
People use various cosmetics mainly so as to cleanse
their bodies, promote attractiveness, or alter their
appearances. Most cosmetics can be classified into
four main categories:

a) Skin cosmetics
 These include blushers, rouge, face powder,
foundations, cold cream, moisturizers suntan lotions
and lip color/lipstick. This group also includes eye-
makeup such as eyeliners, eye shadow, and
mascaras. Beauty-baths, hair-removal substances,
underarm deodorants, perfumes, shaving cream also
fall under this category.
 Hair cosmetics
 Hair cosmetics include shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-
gels, mousses, sprays, styling substances. These also
include curlers, straightness, permanent waves, and hair-
coloring products such as dyes and bleaches.

• Nail cosmetics
 The chief products in this group are nail polish and cuticle
softeners.

• Mouth cosmetics
 a.k.a. oral cosmetics, include toothpastes, mouthwashes,
teeth-whiteners and sprays for a good breath.
 Many of us are unhappy with certain aspects of our
appearance and we wish that we could alter them.
Apart from this time too takes a toll on our looks. As
we grow older our body begins to degenerate slowly
altering the way we look. Some of us would like to
arrest or reverse this effect. Today it is possible to do
so with the help of cosmetic and plastic surgery.
Cosmetic and plastic surgery comprises of a number
of surgical procedures to change one's physical
appearance and make it more pleasing. Aesthetic
plastic surgery can be performed on many parts of the
body. The results and risks of plastic surgery vary from
person to person. You must understand the risks
involved before undertaking this surgery. You should
consult a good plastic surgeon and for ask for details
before deciding to undergo surgery.
 Given below are some of the procedures that
you can undergo:
• Breast Augmentation (Augmentation Mamaplasty): In
this procedure uses breast implants to increase the size
of the breasts. This is also known as breast enlargement
or breast enlargement.
• Breast Reduction: This procedure reduces the size of
large and dropping breasts.
• Breast Lift (Matopexy): This procedure lifts and gives a
better shape to breast that are sagging.
• Liposuction or Lipoplasty (Suction-Assisted
Lipectomy): This procedure removes the extra fat in
different parts of the body. The three types are
tumescent, ultrasonic and super-wet.
• Tummy tuck (Abdominoplasty): This procedure
removes extra fat and skin from the abdomen area.
• Nose Surgery (Rhinoplasty): this procedure mends or
modifies the nose.
• Face Lift/Facelift (Rhytidectomy): This procedure
removes excess skin from the forehead, face and neck
in order to reduce wrinkles from developing.
• Eyelid Surgery (Blepharoplasty): Once this procedure
is done the eyes no longer look droopy and tired.
• Botox Injections: These injections paralyze or freeze
the face muscles to prevent them from developing
wrinkles.
• Facial Implants: This procedure uses implants to
improve the cheeks and chin.
• Ear pinning (Otoplaty): This procedure brings the ears
closer to the head.
• Hair Restoration: In this procedure hair from one part of
the head is transplanted to another part of the head.
• Laser Skin Resurfacing: this procedure
decreases the wrinkles that develop on the skin
due to exposure to the sun.
• Hyaluronic Acid: This natural substance is
injected into the body to be used as skin filler.
• Laser Hair Removal: This procedure removes
unwanted body hair permanently.
Before you decide to undergo plastic surgery
ensure that you consult a good plastic surgeon
and understand the procedure and the risks
involved completely, before you make a final
decision.
 INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS
• Cosmetics ingredients come from a variety of
sources but, unlike the ingredients of food, are
often not considered by most consumers.
Cosmetics often use vibrant colours that are
derived from some unexpected sources, ranging
from crushed insects to rust. Many new
techniques have allowed manufacturers to
synthesise such colours and the use of animals
(or parts thereof) has been declining for many
years and is now virtually eliminated, due in
large part to the efforts of PETA.
• Cosmetics in a variety of forms date back to early
civilizations, with the need to improve ones personal
appearance being an important factor in attracting a
mate. Over the years the ingredients have changed
dramatically as we discovered how to manufacture our
own scents and cosmetic formulae. The realization of the
dangers of many common ingredients also greatly
impacted the growing industry.

• Ancient Egyptian aristocracy made use of minerals to

provide colour and definition to their facial features.
During the era of the Greek Empire it was common to
use face paints, while the Romans indulged in baths
containing oil-based perfume
 Common Ingredients
• Castor oil and its derivatives are found in many cosmetics as it
is "non-comedogenic" (does not exacerbate or contribute to
acne).
• Cerebrosides (cells from the nervous systems of cattle or
swine) were once used in some high-end skin-care products to
increase moisture retention and to create a smooth skin
surface, however the BSE controversy has put an end to this
practice.
• In many countries colours in cosmetics are listed as colour
index numbers. C.I. numbers are allocated by the Society of
Dyers and Colourists. The scheme covers colours used in food,
personal care products, cosmetics, household products and
fabric dyeing. So, for example you will not normally see
tartrazine listed in lipstick ingredients, but it may be there listed
as C.I. 19140. Erythrosine will be listed as C.I. 45430, and so
on. In US and Canada colors are listed as FD & C colors.
tartrazine (E012) is FD & C Yellow 5 and erythrosine (E127) is
FD & C Red 3.
 Potential Dangers
• The search for new ingredients and products often brings
controversy, typically over ingredients whose function is
unproven or disputed.
• There are few potential dangers regarding the use of
cosmetics. One such danger is the use of old mascara. Some
mascaras contain an ingredient that breaks down to produce
formaldehyde. The formaldehyde prevents the growth of
bacteria. Aged mascara, however, may no longer be
producing formaldehyde, allowing bacteria to proliferate. For
this reason, it is often recommended to replace a tube of
mascara every few months .
• In one well-known case, Buddy Ebsen was originally cast as
the "Tin Man" in the The Wizard of Oz. Aluminium dust was
used to create a tin effect. As the result of an allergic reaction,
he was hospitalized and Jack Haley replaced him. Aluminium
dust was, instead, added to a paste.
†END†