RUFFLES

Aruffleisastripoffabriccutorhandledinsuchawayastoproducefullness.Thoughprimarily decorative, ruffles may also serve a practical purpose, such as lengthening a garment. Ruffles areoftwotypes,straightandcircular,whichdifferinthewaytheyarecut.Thestraightruffleis cutasastripoffabric;thecircularruffleiscutfromacircle.Withthestraightruffle,bothedges are the same length and the fullness is produced through gathering, sometimes pleating. For thecircularruffle,asmallcircleiscutfromthecenterofalargeroneandtheinneredgeforced to lie flat, producing fullness on the outer, longer edge. Soft, lightweight fabrics ruffle best. A general rule for deciding the proper relation between ruffle width and fullness: the wider the ruffle(orthesheererthefabric)thefullertheruffleshouldbe.

Aplainrufflehasonefinishededge(usuallyasmallhem);theotheredgeisgatheredtosizeand thensewedintoaseamorontoanotherunfinishededge.

Arufflewithaheadinghasbothedgesfinishedorhemmed.Itisgatheredataspecified distancefromthetopedgetogiveagracefullybalancedproportion.

A double ruffle is gathered in the center. halfway between the two finished edges. It is then topstitchedthroughthecentertothegarmentsection.

Singlelayer ruffles are made from one layer of fabric and the edges finished with either a narrowmachineorahandrolledhem.Theedgescanalsobefinishedwithdecorativestitching, ifappropriatetodesignoffinishedgarment.

A selffacedruffle is a single layer of fabric folded back on itself. It is used when both sides of a ruffle will be visible, or to give added body to sheer or flimsy fabrics. It creates a luxurious appearancewhereveritisused.

To determine length of fabric needed for a ruffle, allow about three times the finished length for a fully gathered ruffle, twice the length for a ruffle that is slightly gathered. Straight ruffles areusuallycutoneitherthecrosswiseorthebiasgrain. For a ruffle allow about three times the finished length of a fabric for a fully gathered ruffle. Take twice the length of fabric for a ruffle that is slightly gathered. Straight ruffles are usually cutoneithergrain Piecingoffabricstripsisfrequentlynecessarytoachieverequiredlength.Seamstripswithright sides together, making sure sections match in pattern and direction of grain. Strips can be cut along the selvage to get maximum length without piecing and to avoid the necessity of hemming. Circularruffles The deep fullness and the fluid look characteristic of circular ruffles are created by the way the fabric is cut rather than by means of gathering stitches. Circu1ar ruffles can be used anywhere that gathered ruffles would be suitable; they are especially effective at necklines and when madeofsheer,flimsyfabrics.Tomakecircularruffles,apaperpatternisessential.Measurethe length of the edge to which ruffle will be attached; this will be the circumference of the inner circle.Next,decidethewidthoftheruffle;thiswillbethedistancebetweentheinnerandouter circles.

Onpaper,drawinnercirclefirst.Drawoutercircleatwidthofruffle.Add5/8"atedgeofeach circle.

Cutfabricalongoutermostcirclefirst.Thencutongrainlinetotheinnermostcircleandcutit out.

Staystitchtheinnercircleondrawnseamline.Clipseamallowancerepeatedlyuntilinneredge canbepulledoutstraight.

Long ruffles may require piecing. Circumference of inner circle determines length you get from each piece (circumference is approximately three times the diameter). Cut out as many circles as needed to reach desired length. Stay stitch all inner edges and clip seams so circles can be pulledflat.Laystretchedcirclesendtoendtocalculatelength. To join pieces, simply seam the adjoining straight ends and press seams open and flat. Sew together enough circles to equal or exceed the length of the edge to be joined. Excess length can be trimmed from either or both ends of the pieced ruffle. For selffaced ruffles, be sure to cutouttwicethenumberofcirclesneededforeachruffle'sfulllength.