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To simplify constru ction, the wine rack on page 4 features two tips and four patterns.


Best-Ever ProJects &Shoo nos

Wooth llil9<1 '1111' ( Oltl

Ellto1ln Ch i Bill KRIA

MdiMqn 1 I d11~r MARLEN K[MM[T Otpuly I dIOI OAVl CAM PUll l'uloll<oaiOf1 I dlltr CARl VOSS Tooh ldllor BOB HUNTR I low to [tltt lUCAS P(TlRS I'IOjh ldlur CRAIG RUlG~LGGER Stnior C>t!$~Jn ldl~t lt(VIN BOYll l'lodu<toon/Oih "M''"'''l"l MARGAR(T CLO~N[R A<h111n 11~11\l lo\1 '""'' ~lllAVL MUNYON Phol<>< loiJlhl'n jASON OONNlllY, SCOTT LITTL, JAY WILD ConlniJYini<JIIk olrollc, TIM CAIIILL. LORNA IOIINSON ROXANN[ ltMOIN[ (C>ntlllxliUI<J (ralhm on JIM ll (AV[V Contrllxtlin'l P1 ""Iff lu IRA lACIIlR Nl Ollt'(lur KARl 11UIU P1ojC'< 1 All Drtt lo RAY NlUIIAU(R A\iO<IIt! Att l>ottt lur GIUG SlllRS

Great proiects, great tiPS: Keep 'em coming

o<l.l}. I hul\ IIU ' hmt.l~l' ol \\ood\\UI 1-.lrt~ pl.lll\ to dwml Irom Hut wh,ll I\ Ill \hurt \llpplv .lll' \IIIIJI 11'\/t'd proll'lt plolll\ \t 1\'(}()/) lllo lj.\oiiiiW, Wl' 1-IHI\\ wh,ll woodworkl'l\ l \fll'll Ill p lolll\ H ' riltl'd dlrmmio ll\, trlpll' l hl'l'kc:d \ll'Jl hy\l\'fl lll\lfUt 11011\, o lllll ll\ ll\1\ ollld ( utt lng l>i,lj.\fo llll\. l0111pil'll' ollld olllllrollt \1.11t d o to ut\llll' '>lllll" ill }our \hop, o ur \t,lll hulld\ l'\l'l) how-to prult't l i ll tht \\'00/) \hop, lut.lltd jll\1 .1 ltw \tt'j)\ lrorn our ullin~. 111 thl\ puhllt.llrort, \.. t 'w '''" hi)othllghtt"tl 'IH>Il tip' Ill tolw t' \ It 1- \u Y Hr pit 1\ up on till' ' ho p lt.u1wd trltk' \\\' rrrtwvuul whlk hulld l11g tlw prtljl'\ 1'. o llld jlr\'jlolflllg lilt' 111\t flit tiOil\, Whtm Hr "''-' torlt.; tolny.tlrto ,ldt r,, tht) ttllrl\ o \!t l ,rlld oHr h o w mudt tlll'y oiJlJllt'd ,rtt tht tip' th,rl ll\UIIIJ)o lll> o ur projt'd\ With IIW .rdVtlll OJ till' illlt'IIH'I Wl' \ l ,lddtd mo t~. woodwurt-tnx lwlp h~ pmtlng lnlorm,rtlw how In pho tm IIHI v ltkm oil I (Stt lmhvidlloll .rrtldt\ lnr lllorl' dll o llh ) I or "' It \ ,111 ,rhout J.\lhll o lllll' t 0 lriM your \IIlli'\\ with lho ll IW\1 woodwort.;. IIIJ.: prujnt .


C II ( A(,Q J) ll N Midli J.U A Ill II I ~00. Cluc..lgo, II bO~O I Aclvt 111\1"1 M 11 Jot JACK CIIAIHIANSLN OllrciiiP'Jlonu Act r 111 111J IIrptr 1'1\t.lllvt' li~A GIHlNWOOO A1\ ' ' '"' K( VIN BARRY AtlANTA Nvtoltf! M'd1<1 Ul1ROIT 111'1\.l AU()(IAII'i

llu\lnr.n M ln41J


M tlonol l>ln-c:l ..l' TODD 811 Rl(

lie IMI lr~nf Mnn loJ<'I N~w\htrwl IUS liDOU PmchKIIon M.1C~ot!Jet SANOY WILLIAMS Alive rto,lti<J Oper~I<On' M4114J r JIM NllSON r Cu111111Mll M~II8<Jilf MATT SNYD[It Vkt Pli!lid'11/(.ro JI l'ul '' 1 TOM DAVIS M[IIIDITH NATIONAL MIOIA GROUP ru ~I nl TOM IIAitTY lUCUTIVI: VICE PIU!SIDLNTS PI\ ~I Ill, C'omoJn'll l 11~,.1 ANDY MRlVAN Prt d rll. M ttdilh lniNJr~ltd M.11k1 tonq MARTIN f AllOY (h I M~1 rl 119 Otlkr1 NANCY W8(R Cor..ur 1 t I"'II"P M or."l'~'~ 111 tid OoQItl Mt .1 lll SCiliMH Chltl III'W'IIIJt'l Olh rr MICHAU 81tOWNHliN Chid lnn!JVAUf>ll Ofl i-t M<'ltdoth }(,()' J(ANNIN SHAO COLliNS Gtnt 1~1 Mo11MI 1 Milt( RIC~GS Dlr ( f ill OJlllolhom ft l u 1 1 u Dfowln11rnt nl DOUG OLSON SENIOR VICE PRUIDlNTS (on-uno M ll~rlllfJ DAVID Bt\ll l dtturul 01 tor, Of'~ Mo n' GAVL GOODSON IIUTl lA l dttnrlfl Outnl. Nrw Yl ~ SAllY l[( Mmtd lh WornPO'I NIV"Ir. I.AUIIN WI(N[R Chk-1 lt"chnoloc)y Oil ~ fl JACK GOLOlNII(IIG C10up Pul~o\htl JAM[S CAliA C.10up PuiJhl> r CAIIlV WITM[R VICIE PltlSIDlNTS Cor pot411 \' ' BRCNDAN SMYTH Dlt<l ,, o II 1,. I PATTI rOLLO Ntw Med k MMt toriCJ 'oCrvK ANDY WilSON Rc~~rth ~olultom llltiTTA WAll (omnnm 111 ~'' PATRICK TAYlOR Newut.Jnd DAVID AlGIIIC Production IIIUC( lllSTON

Morlrn Ktmmet Monagmg ldttor

Left. An end table Is part of a three table Jet, beglnlng on poge 66. A helpful video showing how to cut the tapered legs with a tablesaw Is noted In the project Instructions.


In Mtmorfam - (,T, Mtrtdllh Ill, 19H 2001

CICco""" ~1...01

(~I otlelll JOI h ' .~ P'llftlfd "'-"" U \A '.no;! loin ~obion o.on- ,., olitOOO lor ""'


.. .....__odo'll , ....

4 Wine Rack
Cut only four ports and you'll be on your Wfrl to assembling a countertop wine racl<.

BostEver Proje<;ts & Shop nps

12 20

Sllce-n-Dice Cutting Board

Attractrve patterns and a tough end-graJn surface maKe thiS a popular g ft rtem.

Cedar-Uned Blanket Chest this tradrtlonal project has never

been easier.

Wedged-Tenon Bench through-mortises onhanc:o o practiC8J projeCt for your entry.


Shelves for Show

Learn how to buRd thiS <~tnkng

shelf uM that assembles easiy.

29 Easy Oak Finishing Tips

Choose low-odor waterbased statns and ftnlshes.

30 Pendulum Doll Cradle

Full-SIZe patterns help you get o sold
start construcbng thts toy for a favOI'lte gift

36 Easy-Does--It Garden Bench

Stmple ~nes and durable cedar add to the procticahty of thts outdoor project.

leallver Project ond I hop Tlpa 2011

42 Bulld-fn-aWeekend
Select from fiVe different style opbOnS by chang ng the I'TIOld ng or foot prof1'e.

48 Bins
With a tab'esaw, bcscutt joiner, and router, knock out these handy units In a weekend

52 BuHoned-up Picture Frame


Budd a classy Ms & Crafts-style frame accented w1th square pegs.

56 Shaker Clock
It's tame to assemble th1s project w1th 21st century movements and trad1tJonat styling

61 Mobile Crane
Your kids witt d1g taking (Jtl8( tho controls of this fully operahonnl toy.

66 Three-Table Set
Chnngo onty the part dimenSIOns to butld thiS hvmg-room ensemble.

73 Wine-Bottle Holder
Spotlight a special bottle of w1no with this gravitydefying table accOSSOty.

74 Gem of a Jewelry Chest

Neckl<lcos, bracelets. nngs, ond ptns each have a place In this classic dOSign.

80 Wall Shelf and Towel Rack

By usmg baste shop tools, you'll have th1 s project ready 1 n a weekend.

86 Tablesow nps. Tricks

& Techniques

92 Our Best Router nps

& Tricks

102 26 nps for AU-Around

Shop Success


110 nps for Square Corners

Want to try your hand at mortiseand-tenon joinery? Give it a go with this manageable project.


his graceful countertop rack keep\ your favorite wines at hand for dinner parties or entertaining. It has ju~t four partc;-and patterns for three of them-so you'll be able to build the rack almo'it a'i quickly ac; you can c;ay

Ctll><mt/ WIIIV{.'{II0/1.

Make the frame parts first

Cut blanks for the legc; (A) and rail\ (B) to c;l7e IMat erials List, pnsc 61.

Enlarge four cople\ each of the half'>itc leg, rail, and rest pattcrm on fXI.f:l! 6 to 2001~1. Spray ad hesive onto t he back'l of the leg and rail pattern<; and adhere them to the blan k<; for the legs (A) and ral ls (B). rorm the mortlsec; in the legs (A) and cut the tenons on the rails (U) !Draw
lngs 1, 1a; Shop Tip 11.

Overall dimensions: 13" wide x 8~" deep x 8W high. Materials needed: Maple, walnut. Other contrasting species, such as ash and mahogany, or white oak and padauk, could be used Holds six wine bottles. See page 73 for a single-bottle holder.
l ettlver Projects and Shop Tlpa 2011

3 4

Bando;aw or c;crollc;aw the curve on the edge of each rail blant.. (B). Cut

o;llghtly out'lide the line .tnd \and to the. line. Remove the patterm; then finl~h .,,1nd the. r<llh to 220 grit

Drilling and sawing simplify mortise-and-tenon joinery
The sturdy, reliable mortise-and-tenon joint reigns as a woodworking standby These hmts will help you eas1ly form mort1ses 1n the legs (A) and tenons on the ra1ls (B) for the w1ne rack. Mark the morti~e loco~ton~ from the pattern onto the adjacent edge of each leg blank. Position the drill-press fence to center a !4" brad-point bit on the edge, shown at right, and dnll a senes of hole~ to the mort1se depth, ~,. Clean out the mortise and square the corners w1th ~ and W chisels. To cut the rail tenons, shown ill lower right, install a W dado set on your tablesaw, and lower it below the table surface. Attach an auxiliary rip fence, and position it for W cutting width. Add a miter gauge extension that reaches the fence. Start the saw and raise the dado set W' above the table, cutting a cove m the auxiliary fence. On scrap stock the same size as the rails, make cuts on both faces to cut the tenon cheeks Keep the end of the railt1ght against the fence Then, usmg the so~me saw setup, stand the test piece on each edge to cut the tenon shoulders. Test the tenon fit in the mort1ses, and adJuSt the setup a~ needed Then cut the tenons on both ends of the four rails

Assemble the frames

Apply glue to the rail ( B) tenom; then J\\ernble and clamp the rail<; and leg\ (A) with the curved edge of each rail faling up IDrawing 1, Shop Tip 2 I Lay a pair of r.lll\ aero\\ a 4' \crapwood spacer (we uwd \li Dl) \O ~ou can center t\\0 ciJ mp'> on t hc lcg\. ( I hc patterned f.1ce will he up for om. leg, down for the 'iCCOild ilg.) U.utd!).JW or \trt.>ll\.JW llu: turvcd edge.'\ ot the. lcg'i ( \ ). Cut \lightly out'>ide the line; thc.n \and to the line. Rernow the t>cltterm from the lcg'> (1\), Jml IIH.' II tlnl\h \and both frame.\ (A/ll) to 220 grit.

2 3

Time for some rests <ut fum v. > I ~ 12'11 bl.utlo.'>

pattern, and .ldhl'rl' .1 pattern to eac h rl''lt (<.') bl.utlo. 1mt.lll a ' " dado 'Ill un yuur t.lhle\Jw, .utd \l't the <:utt1ng depth t o ~,r.. '>.1w dadol'\ In thl' rcw. (( I, whert lndic.lh.'d on the p.u tun.

1 2

for the

re\l\ (<.).
~pra> .1dhe~lv1.' onto th1. h..aclo. of e.Jth <.:apy of till' lwll-\lte re'lt

Clamp first. saw second
Clamping curved parts poses difficulties: You usually end up hav1ng to tape the cut-orr p1ece back onto the workpiece to provide a clamping surface. For such assemblies as the wine-rack fram es (A/8), glue and clamp the components before you cut the curves in the legs (A)

D exPLooeo VIEW

h )( 1' mon lse




... self

odhes1ve foot

NOTE: Enlarge the!>e half-size . patterns to 200% on a photocopter to make full-size patterns for the legs (A), rails (B), and rests (C)


Stand the frames {A/ B) upside down to make It easier to position the rests (C) against the bottom of the ralls (8).

Drill screw holes through the base (0) Into the legs (A) with a countersink bit and portable drill.

B<lll(l\,1\\ or \Cr<>II'>J\\ I ht rl'\1\ <Cl tu 'IIMJX', cutting -;llghtl} out\idc the lim. 'IIH.'Il \and to t he line and nmovc tht JMtlerm; rini-.h\and the n .'\t\ Cillll' and clamp the rt''>l\ (( l to the rra me\ ('\/B) (Drawing 1, Photo AI

Add the bases

tut the baw (D) blanks to sl1c. l.ty out t he curved tdge !Drawing 11wllh a fairing \tick by d rawing ,, llnl' tlhll conne<:l\ thc two endpoints .md tht nntlrpuint (I or .1trcc falrln~ \Ill k pl.m, 1 l 1 .tiring.) go to or \Croll'iaw thl' t:d~c nf c,H. h h<t'il' (J)) slight I} out si(h. t hl' to thc llnc. Hnish-\,llld line, t hen t hl' hil\C'> to 220 grit. Wllh lhc rack a'>\cmbl}' (1\/H/C) up,lde down, center t he h<lW'> \Ide to-~ldt on the hot t om~ of the leg~ (A) .tnd uvuh.tnglng the b.tck'> uf the kg' by ~. (Drwlng 11 . \1ark '>crl'W luc.ttlnm nntlred un the kg">, then drlllwunter '>unk ,h,lnl\ hole\ in the bJ\l\ (Dl and pilot hnh:' in t h" leg\ IPhoto B l. {Ior IIR

\Crew'>, drill 12." ' hnk'i and ~ pi lot hole ) Giue and \Crcw th(' hil\t'' (Dl to thc rack ammhly ( \ / IV< ). \Iter the ~luc drit''l, touch up the finl\h-\andlng ,,, lll'ct:\'lary and tpply thrcc n>.tt'l uf dcJr, \Jlln flnbh , ,,mding to i20 grit l>ct wcen wat'l. While the flnl~h drk", ralw ,, ~1 ,1 '1'1 of wine to tua\t yuur \tKn'\'1 .

4 5


. -.



Wntttn by Lerry Jo h ntton w11h Jeff Mertz Projt' 1 dt~gn Je ff Mertz Illustration Roxenne LeMoine; Lome Johnso n


r &

Materials List
IINI\It(() \Ill



A legs


B ralls

W IW Yl" I h.


Mtl Qty. w 514" w 4



rests bdses

Yl" 1VI." Yl" 21S"


' ,..

Y,. X 1"

Materials key: Mrmple, W-walnut. Supplies: Spray ad~~ 18K 1~ Oathe~d wood SCrew\.~ Sl'lfldhesN f t 41 Blade: dado ~et.

mortises ~ ... deep, centered

Cuffing Diagram
--.... -,,. .. .,.... :tt.r



_ _... .

~X 3Vi X

36" Walnut (l bd ft.)



:C:ftlii~'JIJ..:rJI ... __....,..._.......__.-.,.-


--.-LEG HALF-SIZE PATTERN (4 need ed )


1;. x S11J X 36" Maple

(l .5 bd ft.) Plane or resaw to the thickness listed In the Materials List.

l eatEver Project a and Shop Tfpt


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C 20 I 0 Forrest ManUfadunng

This eye-catching kitchen accessory may look challenging, but it's amazingly easy to make thanks to a simple trick for creating the lively geometric pattern. Bonus benefit: This project provides one tough cutting surface-its end-grain top holds up well to your sharpest kitchen utensils.

n ju'>t ,, wupk of eveninl-\' and u'iing J flw n.trru\' \I rip\ of maple, dnrr> and \\'.1 lmn from your \crap hin. }OU <:.Ill nMkl thi'> \tril..lng project . \n na,tk up \<lllll' damp'> and watcrrc\1\tant glue, and let\ gl't 1-\0ing.

Start by making a blank

1mm m.tpll>, dwrr>~ .tnd \\,tlnut -.tcx:k hl'l\Wt'n :W .tnd I' thkl.:, lUI -.trip'> tO tlw \\loth'> .llld ~~v.: h..ngth '>hown on Drawing 1.

SHOP nP 3 Use up scrap. You con ust scrap

stock for this projt with dlfftrtnt thlckntssts btcoust you'll plant tM blank too uniform thlckntss ofttrglutup.

To ensure tight joint'>, prt'(>.lre the \trip'> by Jointmg one f,Ke Jnd till edge and then ripping thlm to the necded width\. l.dgc-glul' the \trip\ with tlw Jointl'd races down In thl arr.mgtnwnt \hown on Drawing 1 .tnt! In Photo A. ro 1-.cep the glue-up tltlt, t:cnlu the damping prc~Hare on the blanJ... by IX>\itlonlng ri\l'r block'> under the hlanl.., "' \hown With the glue dry, \Crapl' off <H1> \qucczc-out from the\ ol the blank. I hcn pl.ll1l thc top l,tu. until the hi.111J... I\ flat ,tnd thl' hl.111 1.. h,l\ a unilorm'>'>. 'low turn the hlanl.. mw and plane it to 'ril" thkk. lrlrn the bl.tnkuuh \t(UMl.' .llld tu a flnalll'llgth or _\c;",

Now craft the cutting board

from the blant.., a~ \how. n m Photo B. '\lign the \tripe; on t:dgc with the wood pattcrm matched. fhcn turn l'\ef} other stnp l'nd for end to create the path.rn \hO\' n on Drawing 2. (I hi\ alw \tagger\ the joint~ ror ,, !>U(>l'r-\tr<>ll); hoard.) To \lmplif)' thl' glue-up, '>' the <>trips into three ~roup-; of ei~ht pil'Cc\.llluc and damp the pil'Cl\ lncac.h group togct hlr, <l'> 'thown In Photo C.

1 2

C ro\'llllt twenty-four l lf"-wlt.ll' \trip<,


4 Avoid glue sticking to cauls. To

prt~nt tht cauls from sticking to the cutting -

board strips, ploet woxtd poptr bthind tht cauls and clamps.
l est-Ever Projects a nd Shop npa 2011

Glue and clamp the contrasting wood strips together In order, keeping the bottom faces and end s flush .

Using a stopbl ock attached to a miter-gauge ex tension on your table saw, crosscut 1Y.." wide strips from the blank.

Face glue and clamp together eight strips at a time. Keep the top and bottom edges flush and the ends aligned with cauls.

After the glue dric~. glue and clamp the three group\ Into one l.lmlrhltlon, mt~l.. lng \ure }OU align them cum:~.:tlv to wntlnue the pattern. \u,tpe off all ol the glue 'I<.JUlete-out from the wttlng boaru. I hen, u\lng 1 ht.'lt \Jmk'r or a r<tndorn-orhlt \Jntkr with 80 grit <oandpaper, \and tiH.' ntttlng boMd face~ ju'll enough to flatten them. Now flul~h'>lnd the f<lle\ with u rundum nrhll \ander, ll'llng progrl'\\lvely finN 'iandpapcr up to 180 ~o:rlt. Rtp the long edge~ of the ~.:u ttlng hoJrd, h.~.wmg ' flnl\lwd wldt h uf II ". Rout ~ round-0\er'l.tlung Jll n f thl' top anu bottom edge~ ilnd corm:r\ 'ow <~and the edgl'\, cnd'l, and round over\ to lBO grit.

SHOPTIPS 5, 6 & 1
3 tips for taking care of your cutting board
Prot ect wood. At least every three months or whenever the wood looks dry, reapply a protective penetrc~llng food-safe fln1 sh to prevent water from soaking in and damaging the wood. e Hand-wash and dry. After use, hand-wash the cutting board in warm,

soapy water, rinse it clean, and w1pe it dry Never let the board sodk 1n water. e Sa nd smooth. If the cutting surface becomes heavily scored, sand it w1 th a random-orbit sander, startmg with 80-gril sandpaper and progres~ing to 180. Then reapply finish.




Find more kitchen and acce$SOry plans at woodmaga 1r om/ kitch n



W round overs along all edges and corn rs

6x Yl" RH wood screw

W diam rubber bumper 1' 1n from each edge

every other strip turned end for end

Apply a food \,Ill' fin l'lh of )our choin as rcwm nw ndcd o n the product IJhcl.

Simply alter the blank for fresh new looks

llcre arc two ad<.lition,ll de'>lgm for vuu to try. lo pruducc the pJI term, wmbilll' contra~t ang wood \ t rip' of dtlfcrent ~' idths to form tht c uttlllg-ho.ud hl,ln~' \ hown below \!fake \tan. that till' blank \'\Ood patte rm-whcn rlwrwd ofhlt Jll of thl joint ltnl''l by ,at leJ'It a,,, <\lthough there'!~ no rull tor thl \ trip \'\ldth'i, keeping them hll\\l'l'll ~' .md takes advant.lgl' uf narrow 'l<r.lp bin rippings from your <;hop. l'n m;lkl' eithlr of the~e cutting bo.~rth, fo llow the imtrucliom lm th l\ prujet t, t uttlng the blanJ.. 'l tril>'~ to the wadth'l 'lhown bl'low.

Or If you feel advcnturoul, try your h,md at a new design, now that you know the oflc;ct ..ccret.
Supplies: W~xed P'J)tr, "'adbowl fimh oc mnerl oi, W rubbfr bumpers Wlth smws (6). \'tot found thf oll1nd


8 Food-of flnl.,t. Foro quick,

lntxpenslv~ finish, we applied thre~ coots of

mineral oil, letting each coot ~netrote for five minutes, ond then wi~ off the txcess. For details, see "Is your fmlsh food-safer ot oz1 wfl .

bumpm t ~ hardware stot~. Bit: K" round over router bit.

Wrttten by Owen Dun II Project dtsogn Jeff Me rtz lllu .tr"oons Mike Mlttermel er ; l orn Jo hnson
Que~tlons about finish for this or any other woodworking project? woodmng .zlne com,'finishlng

To prcHnt t lw bo,ml lrom \lipping during U'll and to ,allow ,llr underneath It lor drying, c.Jrlll pilot holc\ an<.l \crew \1\ ~-d l,uneh. r ruhhcr bu ntpers to it' bo tto m, where \hown o n Drawing 2. Now gathlr up \Oilll' frl'\h Vl'Rl'l,lblcs, and ~tart slicing and dlcin~ot !


Design Option 1

' round overs along all edges and corners - -- dlam rubber bumper 1 1' In from each edge

6x -) 1

1_.. /\cr~w

R.H. wood Chtrry ~oo::::-~

Cut 114" wide stnps from blank and posuon on end grain to form cutting board \

to l"lnlually, then planed to~




Design Option 2

Cut 1' widE' stnps from blank and position on end gran to form cutting board.


35 after trlmmang blank ends


lest Ever Project and Shop Tips 2011


for a special free upgrade.

$199 Overarm Dust Collection: A ~ 3 OHP Pr '

Cabr'l Saw

$139 Dust Collection Blade Guard: I I 11 I "'' 111 r1 I ~ l:lrol lonal Crll ~ t ~ (St ndarn \\~h (M)fy 3 OHP)

BONUS: Set 1 Slide Show of the project auembly at: woodmagazine.comlche5tslldcs

Overall dimensions 39W wide x 16W deep x 21~" h1gh Materials used: P1ne, btrch plywood, and cedar closet lining. If you w1sh to build the chest w1thout the llntng and tray, simply om1t parts Q through W The .1ttrc1ctive trim profiles are mc1de using common cove, round-over, and stra1ght router b1ts. The che~t front/ bJck and s1de panels assemble w1th strd19htforward stub-tenon-and -groove jomery Looking to save t1me .md money? Order the hJrdw.ut> k1t contaln1ng the contmuous hmge, lid stays, and bun feet from th<' Source on pogt> 19. Prefer to turn tht> feet? Set" tht full sire pattern on page 19.

Start with the panels

Cut the front / h<tll. \till'' (i\), 'ilk \till'\ (B), front / hac!. rail\ (C), \idl' r.tll\ (D), and lro nl/b.Jck ll'ntl'r \lilc'> ( I ) to tht 'lite'> ll'>tl'd !Materials List, fillS<' 191. 'IJ\C the r.111 cutoff' for nhtl.i n~ te\t ll'nnn ... U\fllg a dado blade ill your t,thh:<;.1W, cut a tentert'tl 1 ~ grooH' 1 " dwp along the imillt t'dge of thl' lront/b.tck \tile\ ( \ ),<,ide \till'' (ll), frunt /h.KI. rail\ (C), and \ide rail'i (J)), ,md a long /)()t/tl'tiRl''i of thl' center \llks (L) !Drawings 1 .uu.1 21. Ag.un u!>tng your d.tdo biJdl' \CI, form ,, ~ wnon " lon~ on hoth trHh of tlw front/back rail'<<), \idt rail\ (D), and front/ bacl. center \tile' (h) bee Drawi ngs 1 and 2, Photo Alto fit \llugl)' lnth~ groU\-1..'\ Ill the rail\ cll ld \I ill'\. (Wl' C lll cl ll'\1 ll'll()ll un .1 rail tutoff to wrify our ~o~tup htfmc t uttlng 1h~ tenom.)

Place oft used Items In a handy tray that slides on the top lining retainers.
l eat Ever Project. a nd Shop Tlpa 2011



caulkbacker cord "long ..
h" foam

rabbet y, deep


grooves deep, centered


'' foam caulk backer cord '!o4"1ong grooves ' dt>ep. centered


Adju'lt your tal>lc~aw \etup. 'I hen cut a W' rabbet W dc..cp .tlun~o: the olll\itlt c..tiKe of the front/had. '>tile'> (.\) on 1he lmiclt fac..e to receive 1he 'ilde \tile\ (B) !Drawings 1 and 21 . ~rom edKe-joined '>lock, wt the I runt/hack panel<; (I) and \idt'JMnel'> ((I) to the \i/e\ li'ited (I he parwl\ .~rc.. ~ ' \horttr in width and h.'ngth th,lll the openings to allow for liCii\Onal rnovcmc..nt.) 'I hen cut <l ~ rahh<.'l W deep arountl each panel on the lmitlt' fau. to form a ''"-t hick lip that fit\ snugly In the Kroove\ in the rails and \till'S !Drawing 11 . ,,u1d all of the part\ to 220 grit, and n.movc the dmt from tht pand\ (F, (,) ~t.tln the panels. (We applied V.~r.t tll.llll' no. 218 rraditional 'lt.tin, flr\l Jppl)lng Varathane Premium Wood Condltlorll'r to prl'vcnt hlotc..hing of the.. 'ltain on the.. pine.)


31'" for parts-----1

914' for parts@

' groove v. deep. centered

N" rabbet W

dec pin parts@only



;4 groove


c ntcred


Skip the Interior finish for cedar-lined chests
When rnstalhng cedar lining in a chest, do not apply any type of ~tain, parnt, or finish to the hnrng, inside of the chest, bottom of the hd, tray, and lid contact surfaces Why? The resins rn cedar are similar to those in turpentrne, so the vapors will soften orl - and water-based stains, parnts, and finishes (rncludlng lacquer), causing clothes and the lid to stick.

9 Stain panl first. For ~st r~sults, stain panels now. Doing so prevmtl unfinished tdges from showing w~n the pon~ls contract du~ to seasonal mowm~nt. SHOP It )Oll plan to imtall cedar In the c..he~t. \taln only the 0111\iclt fan'> of tht pJneh, as explained a/)()lt t('{llt In "\kip the interior tlnl'lh for c.:edar-linetl che\h." 'lo a~\emble the front/bad. JMneh, mt~tk c..entcrllncs on ma~kln!-1 tape on tlw ralh (()and cc..nttr 'lllle' (1.) on the Otlt\itlt faces for allgnlnH the \tile-.. llll'n, to keep the front/I><K k ,md \ldl' panc..l., (f, (,) centered Ill the openlnK\, cut from ~. foam caulk-l>tttkt.r cord (<I\ a liable at home center\) ~6 piece\ IYJ" long for ~pacer\ lmNt the foam c;pac.:er'l Into thl' ~o: roovc-. In the front/back 'ltik-. {1\), rail~ (( ), nnd center ~tllec; (I'.) !Drawing 11. J\'1 shown in Photo B , glue and c.:lamp together the c;tllcs, rallc;, and cc..nter -.tiles

B Using a miter-gauge exten$lon for backup,

form a 14" tenon l\" long on each end of the ralls (C, 0) and center stiles (E).

Glue and clamp together the front/back stiles (A), ralls (C), center stiles (E), and panels (F) with the center stiles aligned.

Protect panels from damage and stain with waxed paper When building frame-and-panel assemblies, such as those for the blanket chest, waxed paper comes in handy for more than protecting the panels (which need to freely expand and contract) from glue squeeze-out. By leaving the paper on the prestalned panels during the remaining assembly and staining of the project, the paper also protects the panels from scratches, scrapes, and additional stain. After staining, simply pull the paper out from ). under the panel trim (H, 1

Wued paper

on panel

Apply glue In the rabbets In the front/back stiles (A), and assemble and clamp the front/ back and side panels together.




'A" deep

St ep 1

Step 2


~ round-overs

St ep4

with panel\ (F) captured In the gro<lve~ ,ami llw center stile/ra il <.:enterlln~ ,aligned. Apply glue only to t he rail and ccnlt.'r\tllc tenons (no glue on the panels or In the grooves).
SHOP 12 Avoid dJts In pin. To prevent marring the soft pine when damping, place scrop blocks bdwM1 the damp heads and pine.
In the -.amc way, glue and damp togNhLr thl' \ide Mile~ (B), rail~ (D), and p.uwh (G) to form the \Ide panel\, again lrl\l'rling thl' foam '>IX\Cer~ in the groove~.

Trim and glue up the chest

(II, 1), cut four 2x48" pieces lt om V." 'lloc:J... U\lng ,, ~ cove hit, Yu,'' rouml nwr bit, and a 1 i" -.tralght bit, rout till' proliil and rahhet !Drawlng l j along hot h c.dgl''> of c.ach pi en IDrawing 4, Steps 1, 2, 4 .md Sl 1 hen rip a '~>"-wide tri m \trip lrnm l'iKh edge. 'land the \ t rip\. ~litlr-cut thl' long and !.hort trim ptl'<.l'\ (II, I) from the \trip' to fi t

l 'lo trim

form the long and short panel

In the panel open ings. To protect the panel\ (1, G) from glue squeeze-out when lnst.alllng the trim and from additional sta in when finishing the che'lt later, sec Shop Tip 11, afJOI'C'. Then apply glue along the rabbet In each t rim piece, and imtall the trim, securing It to the ralls and sllles with m a~klng tape. C..lue and tlamp together the fron t/ back panels (A/CH./ F/ 11/ 1) and side panl'h (B/D/G/1), mca">urlng for equal diagonals to verify \quare !PhotoCJ.

~n ug l y

Step S

Add the bottom and feet Cut the bottom U> to si1e. fhen, from


\toe'-. planed to match the thick-

ness of the plywood bottom, cut two 2x40" pieces to form the front/back trim (K) and side trim (I). U~lng W cove and
l eat-h er Proj ect


and Shop Tlp a



'l'... shank hole, countersunk. wtth a~ pilot hole W deep In part@


Y.n" shank hole,

'~.=-c:::~ir ~

countersunk on bottom face

'l.o rabbet

\" deep

a x 2" F.H. wood screw

1 /,



x 3~ bun foot

Location of 1y, continuous hinge 36" long countersunk on top face of part , I ~ shank hole, 1 ., countersunk and angled at 10"
"u" shank hole

Back of chest -

',it" rabbet
~. deep


----t-..,.-;:.; t~
Location of bun foot

~~~ round-over bits, rout the profile !Drawing 31along both edges of OM piece .md one edge of the other 1Drawlng4, Steps 1, 2, and 3]. Then rip a W'-wide trim \ t rip from each edge. Sand t he 'it rips. Miter-cut the trim ple<.e~ to length to fit the bottom, and glue and clamp them In place. C'ut the foot ~uppor ts (M) to -;izc. Then rout a W' cove around the bottom edges of each upport !Drawing Sj. Glue a 3~iuc1~" bun foot, centered, to the bottom (coved face) of each support. !':ow dri ll t wo mounting holes through the top o f each support into the cente red foot IDrawing Sal, and drive the 'iCrew'i. With the bottom face of the bottom panel U/K/L) up, glue and crew the foot support (M) a~ cmblies to the pn ncl, po.,ltlonlng the supports W from the outside edges o f the front/back and ~Ide t rim (K, L) IDrawing Sa, Photo OJ.

Glue each foot support (M) assembly to the ). Drill mounting holes bottom panel (J/K/L angled at 10, and drive the screws.

Drill mounting holes 1" from the outside ,L ) to edges of the front/back and side trim (K mount the bottom assembly to the chest.

P o,itlon the c he~t with the bottom up. Then center the bottom panel asc;embly U/K/1./ M ) on t he c hc~t. Drill mounling holcll through the bo ttom U) and centered In the lront/back and side ralls (C, D), where di men sioned (Drawing Sa, Photo Ej. Drive the ~c rtw-..

- - - - - - - - 13VJ' - - - -

ti" hole ""deep , - -- ,

LID CLEAT Vu' shank holes, coun tersunk

Top the chest with cap trim

Cut the front and side cap tri m (N, 0) to the sLtc~ ll ~ ted except 2" longer In length to allow for prec l ~c fi t ting. nout a 'il" cove along an t'<lgc of each piece (DrawingS]. M iter-cut one end of the front cap trim (N). Po~ II ion and cla mp the t rim to the c h e~t, aligning t he lmck edgl' w ith t he 1 11\itlt face of the top front ra tl (C) and the hcel of t he mlu. rcd end with an imide corner of the chest. Mark the heel for t he miter <1t the otiH.r end. MIter-cut the piece. Now glue and clamp It In place. M iter-cut one end of each c;lde cap t ri m (0). P osition and clamp the piece~ to the chest, verifying tight miter j oint~ with the front cap trim (N). Ma rk the fl ll l\hed lengt h of the \Ide <.ap trim ple<.cs 'IO that they overhang the back of the chest W (Drawing Sbj. C'ros'lcut t he t rim at the mark-.. 1 hen glue nnd clamp the piece\ i n plncc. Cut the hack cap tri m (P) to ~lt.e to fit snugly bl'tween the .,Ide cap t rim (0). then cut n ~rabbe t Yth " deep nlong the hack cap t rim to fit a I ~x.i6" continuom hinge (Drawings 5 and Scj. Now glue and clamp the t ri m In place, tlw.h w ith thc Im ide face of the top ba<.:k rai l (C), In the orientation 'lhow n.

v, roundover
%" shank hole,




.J v. round-over on top



W rabbets

v . from bottom edge

Install the cedar lining
rrom 1h " Mock, cut four I x54" piece~ to form the front/back and ~ide lining retalnerll (Q, n). (bach pil.'Ce >ll.'ld\ a front or back and ~Id e retai ner.) Cut or rout a 1 11" rJbbct 1/t" deep .1long an ctlgc of each J)iece (Drawings S and 6). I hen rout 1At" round-ove r~ aion~ the edge\ of the pieces, where llhown, omitting the round-over along the bottom edge of the two pieces that rou'l l u~e for t he bottom reta ine r~. Miter-cut the front/ back and \ide retainer-. (Q, R) from the piece~ to fit snugly in the chest . Drill mounting hole~ t h rough the retainers, where ~h ow n . Sand smooth. Position the front/ back and 1lide retainers for the bottom (the ones w ithout round-overs on the bottom cdgc'l) in the chest. Usi ng the mounting h o l e~ i n the re tain er~ as guides, dril l pilot holes Into the che'lt. l'hen drive t he sc rews.



... :



Slide each piece of the back lining (5) Int o t he ra bbet In the bottom b ack lining retainer (Q), keeping th e lining j oints tight.

'1o form t ht front/back li ni ng (S) and side li ning ( r), cut th irt y 11W'-long piece~ from V1x .H~" ceda r closet lini ng. (We found a IS-board-foot package of 48"-long lin ing at a local home center enough material for the che,t.) l ay out 11 pieces each for the front/ back lin ing (5), and fi t t he tongueo; and grooves tightly toget her. Measure the length of the bla nket cheM i nterior. C.:enLer t h is measurement on each ced.H lining assembly. Then trim equal amounts off the outside edges of the fi rst nnd last pi ece~ of each assembly. Sand the lining smooth. Po~ itlon the chcllt \-\ lth the back down . lmta ll the back lini ng (S) (DrawingS, Photo Fj. Screw-mou nt the top back-lin ing retai ner (Q) In place to ~ecure the lini ng. Now rcpo\ltlon t he chest with the front dm.,n. In the ~a me way, 1nst.111 the front li ni ng and top front retainer (Q).


leatEver ProJects and Shop Tlpa 2011



Bottom fac~


W1th the continuous hinge aligned with the marks on the lid and the hlng~ barrel flus h with the bock edge, drill th~ mounting holes. tht rcmalnln~ ndar linin~ pit'<.:t\, l.ty out and fit t<lACt htr four pk>ee~ cat:h lor the 'Iitle linin~ (I). \!fc,l\urt !let \\l'l.'ll tht f runt /\>.ttl. II nang (\l lor 1hc C\att wldt h o l tht \i<.k llnlllg. \-. htfort, ctntcr till' mc;l\urcmcnt on l'a<.h lining .t'l\l'mhl} .md l'UI off the l'llC.h. ~tnd thc lining \mouth Now lnst.tll th tllnlng Jnd rcmainin~ \ldl-lining rtt.lirll'r\ (R).

7 lrum

Build the tray

1 2 t

Cut tlw front/bad. (l ), \Ide'> (V), .tnd bottom ( W) to the '>lie\ 11\tc<.l. U<tlng ,, d,1do blade.:, <:ut r,thhct'> dct:p ac.:nw; the end\ ul th(' front / b,1cl. (lJ) on the i/1\ich l.ltl'\ !Drawing 71 I htn cut ,, v., gr<><>H' v, dttp v~ from the bottom td~t''> of tht lront/ hatl. ami \Ide-. IV) to lit the pi)'\\Oe>tl hot tom (\V) \nnd 'mouth Glut .md clamp till' tr.l) together. \.le.l\un. lor tqu.ll d 1.1~un.1 1\ to

verily \quMt'

to form a 17)(4()" b lanl. for the lid ('X). I hen tr<>\'>lllt and rtp till' lid to thl llnl.,hcd \lit' ul 1 6~x \9 ~. U\1ng a v,, <.oo,;c-nnd-UIItt router hit, rout t ht pro tile (Drawing Sal .1long the end'> and l'd gt'' of the lid. (Wt u'ied a I rcud no 1R 2H2 router hit.) A.., an altun.ttl\l' to the lt>vc-an<.l-fllltt profill', you rout,, ''"cove on till' lid. Snnd tiH' lid. Cut thl' clea ts (Y) I<> \lie. t ht radlu\ .tt l'a< h L'nd of the llt.ll., (Drawing 61. U.llld'ill\\ anti \Jnd to 'ihapt. \le\t, drill three <.ountcf'>unk 'lhJnl. hole\ 1h rough t ht t1~.1 h on the lmt tmn l'dge, whl'rt' dlmemlomd Now drill a W holt .,. In 1ht outer hoiL'\ (to .~ecom nwdatl' ltd rno-.cment) In the I Of' l'd~c. Wuh the bottom f<t<.:e of the ltd (X) up, position (\\lthout glue) tlw\ (Y), wlll'rt dimcmlumd !Drawing & 1 .

Time for the lid r dgc jol n ~r. 'ItO{ k

Uo;ing till' ,h,ull. hoil'' In tlw cflo,tt ' ,,, guitil''>, drill pilot hniL'' In the lid. Now drl'c the \Ul:\\\

Let's wrap things up

\.1nd .1ny .trca-, med it tu 220 grit, nml rL'IllOVl' tlw du\t. With till' wa\l'd l>.llll'r \tillsrl pl.ttt on thL p.uuJ<. (I,(,), appl\ wood wnthtlnnu and '>l.tln to till' dll'\1 .utd lid II )CIU lmtallLd thL u~dnr linin~. do 1wt 'llilln the imide o t the dtl'\t, bottom o l tht ltd (X/Y), thl' topl.ll'l'\ ol thc l'<IJl trim ('l, 0 , P), ,utd the tray <U/ \ / WJ a\ l'\ ned prt'\ 1oml} ltuno\l' thc \\J\lll paper I hen appl~ ,, I itl 1\h to t h1. ,t,llrtttl Ml'<~' only. (We npplltd two coni\ ut Varatham Dinmont! W.lll'r-Basul l'ol)'urcthanc, .tnd \illtdtd tu PO Rrit het Wl'en <\ ) muu nt t h<. lid ( \ \ ), po\itlon ,, fl," wntlnuou'> hlngl' .~6 long In thc r.thhtt<.d l-.lp trim (I') (Drawings Scam! 8J. J)rllltlw mounting hok-., hut

2 n,



lo mount the lid \tay\, pmltion the <.heo,t em its back with th(' lid open at 90 . \f t~rk centerlines for mounting hoi('~ on the che'lt and ltd, where dtmcnsloncd [Drwlng 91. Align the appropriate mounting-bracket hole In each \tJy with the marked tentl'rline on the dlc'lt, and \cre\\lllount the \tay'> using the \up plil'd \<:rews. Ne\t, align th(' stays with the ccnterlin('S on th(' lid [Photo Hj, mark the mounting-bracket hole\, and CHtach the \tt~y'>. 'Jow move the chc'lt to the chown lutatlon, and fill It with wooh.'m, llothco,, anti other I tem~ that ueed a protellivc home. Press on each lid stay to align the mounting bracket with the marked centerline on the lid (X). Mark the mounting holes.
Wnurn by Owen Duvall ProJ~Cl de~tgn Jeff Mertlt lllu\lr,\liOni. RoiCanne LeMoine; lorna John son

do nut drlw th~ \<.n:'A\. ~~~mov~ the coni inuum hlngl' N~\1, pmitionthtlld with thl' hottom face up Mark ,JIIHnmtnt lim''> for the hingl' on rn,l\ldng tapl' I~ from the l'lld\ of tht lid at tlw /l,lCS.. ~dge With the

hinge leave'> ,It 90', pmlllun thl hlngl' on th~ lid, aligning till' emh with tht mark~d linl''>, Jnd dnll till' mounting holes [Photo Gj. Rtmm t thl hillgl' ,lfld tape. 'Jow scrl'w-mount thl' hingl' to tht lid and back cap trim

" - - - - - - , - - 3h" d1am.

3" diam.

Cutting Diagram

I [@ . ~ I 1
~ x S\l 1C 96" Pint 14 bd ft.J 1 2 n~tdl 'Plant or rt~w to the thickneu llsttd 1n the Mattrlats list.

3W' dlam.

~~~~~~d Q~~JD_L~






Find more country furniture plans at:



x 24 )( 48

Beat-Ever Project and Shop Tlpa 2011



fUll-size pane n for

IINI\111 D \1/[


15 15 ~


4 4
4 4

Wedged-tenon BenCh

fronllbackstlles ~ side stiles frontlback ralls \Ide ralls




p p p p

front/back E Cef'lter stiles front/back F panels


g .-
14' " 9 " 14 9.


G side panels H' long panel trim


w 9~" --w ~

short parlf't tnm bottom


2 8


Bo ttom

37'~ .....;;.. BP



front/back tnm



Use the full-size patterns below to complete the bench project beginning on the next page.

side trim

foot suppons

W' 4
1 ~'


Cnp trim
N' front cap trlm



~ldecap trlm

"'" %"


P p

1 2

P b.xkcaptrlm Ccdnr lining



p p


front/back Hn1ng retainers


1' 1' 36'


36" 14'

4 4

sidelining R' retainers ntng

n ..

T sldellnng Tra y

w w


2 -2

1 ~

13 ~'



W bottom
Lid assembly

11 Yt

13li' 3914" 13h"



It' .,..





IS MlolllyCillo~e.slze. 5H tlw lnstru<t OilS

pt~. EP




Mtertah key: P

edge )o1n<'d pine, BP birch

plywood, CCL-cedarcl~t II nine;~.

Supplies: ~o.o foam cavlk b.Kklor cord, 8x2' fl.lthead

wood ..crtwS (8). t 8>cl .. O..tht,ICI wood scr.:ws 18). sxl f~thead wood -.crews (231. 4x1' brass flathead wood screws (24), 1W continuous hinge 36'1ong, ltd stays (1 pr.). 3 .3 bun feet (4) Blade nd bits: Dado bt.Kie sec~ and h' cove. ~.- roundoom, 14" str<ught, ind ~ cove-and r, et router bits.

Hardware kit. Conta1nsa 1h'contnuoushlnge36' long lid sta~ (1 pr), and 31!.x3 1-i' bun f\: t 1 41. A)k for orderktt no. 30t7, $49.95 plus shipping and handling Call
or cl<k Meisel Hardware! Specl.:l ttes; 800-19870. mtf5('


Vttw a12-Photo Slide Show of tile Wldged-Tenon Bench coming together It
Note: We were lucky to find a 16"-wide oak plank for the legs (A) and top (F) from whiCh to cut the four parts for each leg and the three parts for the top. When edge-JOined after machining, as noted on the oppostte page, the gra10 matches perfectly, and the mortises appear to be cut toto the part rather than formed by mating notches. But don't worry 1f you can't find aw1de plank. Careful board selection will g1ve you grain matched parts for an equally attractive appearance.

Overall dimenstons are 14" wtde x 42 1ong x 16 htgh. The bench above ts made from 1' -thtck red oak wtth walnut keys and wedges Learn techntques for secunng tenons with keys and wedges. No hardware is necessary. For the board feet of lumber needed to build thts proJeCt,

sec page 23.

leat-IYer ProJect a and I hop Tlpa 2011

~- \ x 1Y1' notch



notches Trim to finished length after glue up



~ deep. C t'ntercd


y. groove




~ x ~

mortbe cut at a

1 Y. round overs


Begin with the legs

I" \lOC I-. I h cn for I h e OU IH \e(( iom ( UI four i"'ud ';~t" hoard\ I rom the -.,um. \toci..I Drawlng 11 . Hlp lht ~W'-wid c l c~ (i\) cent e r \CC I Iom Ill hJ If, U\lll~ .1 W -l..t:rf "'"' biJdc In )OUr t, I htn \Witch to ,, , d,tdo hl.tdL .u td cut a m< Hing llOI( h In c.rc h h ,tlf !Drawing 1 i.l nd Phot o AI. Now lurm ,, notc h In c,Kh leg outenl><:tion IPhoto Bl. (,Juc ,uul damp thL' le~ (t\) tcnter \ect lom tugctlwr IPhoto Cl. I hen w1th the gluL' dry, gluL' .md Ll,unp the outer '>l'C tlom tn t hc nntL'r \l'l l iom IPhoto Dl. llw protruding pot 11om nl the center \elllom form tennm to fit Into the bcnchtup (Jo} ttturthl''l !Draw. I rim thL' emh to thc Ing 21 lcngt h of 16", rernovl n~ nl.IIL'ria I on I> rmm till' h<lll()fll cdgc\.

lor thL' ccnlcr 'lcctlum of lht


(A), c ut 1wo S )( I 6'-" ho,ml'> from

of the h.~~'

Using the rip fence as a stop, and backing the cuts wtth a miter-gauge extension, form notches In the leg (A) center sections. Edge-join the leg (A) center-section halves. keeping the ends flush to align the notches, to form a mortise for the lower stretcher (C).

Again, using the rip fence and miter-gauge extension, cut notches In the top Inside edges of the leg (A) outer sections. Add the leg (A) outer sections to the center section, offsetting the tops, to form notches for the upper stretchers (8).


Lay out thllcg (\)side curn''l wit h a fairing slid. a n d the bottom arc with a compac;~ [Drawing 1[. (!or a free fairing \lid. pl.lll, .) Then band~aw ,md 'land to thc line\. 'Jow rout ~~" round-overs on the edges and bottom eml'l. l'inl~h- and the leg\. lo later acnpt the wedge' (l.), cut .1 ,, groow t tlup in the top\ ol the leg\ (A) [Photo El

st retd1l'r (C), testing thcm for,, snug fit In the leg murt1<..cs. Jlhotoc<>py three \eh of the Stretcher End Patterns on JIII,IW 19, .llld <tdhcre thcm with 'I"'Y .ldhc\IVl' tot hc 'it rete h er\ (B, C) [Photo FJ. I hen b.tnd<;aw and )and the end cur"e\. Hnl'lh\,lnd the '>I retdlef'l.

Form the keys and wedges

Make the stretchers

Cut the upper \tretd1er' {B) < Hld lower \t rltchl'r (C) to ~i7e lhcn to form angled mortl~s m the end\ ol the lower ~trctcher, chud. a ~ brad point bit in your drill pre,.,, tilt the t.lhle toR, and drill ovcrl,lpplng hole' [Drawing 3[. Smooth the Imlde'l of 1he mort he., with
il chi~e l.

1 pas,

Cut a centered ~ groove .." deep In the te non at the top of each leg (A) to receive the wedge(E). 'ltocl-. to ~ thlcl-. lor the key'> (D). Photocopy the Key Patterns on 19, <t nd .1d here them tot he 'fl" stock Band\ilW oll1d \and the l-.cyCi. Cut a ~.,<hd2" blanl-. fur the wedges (l.) lhcn rip a beveled \trip from one edge of the bl.111k [Drawing SJ. Cut two 5'1>''-lont-: wedge<; from the strip.

Top It off
lxS 1 )(4,i" hoard for th e nnter c,cctlon [Drawing 4[. Make sure the el'llh:r-wctlon bO.Hd I\ till' 'lame Width ot\ thl' kngth Of 1hl' tc n om .It the top' of 1h e leg<; (A).

dado hladt! In your tahle'law form the 1"-wlde dadut'l In thc s1des and hottom'l of the upper \tn.tcher\ (B), tc\tlng tor a .,nug ftt in the four leg (A) note h e\ (Drawings 2 .tnd 3[ I hen Ul'.lte a tenon at eac h end of t hc lower

U~ing a


1 rur

the top (F), cut t wu hc4 \pc43"

bo,mh for the out \lc.k \Ct:l 1011'1, and a



I ' dadoes

'- deep

Adhere the patterns to the stretchers, aligning the top edges. The upper stretcher pattern overhangs the bottom edge.


monse cut at 8


Outer SectiOn



Center sect1on '- - - -15";....._----4-- - - 15" - - -

-------------43"----------------------Inserting spacers between the center-section parts to form mortises for the leg tenons, edge-join the outside sections. Outer ~ect10n


leal Ever ProJects and Shop npa 2011

I h(n dra\~ centNiine' acrov. the width\ of the board~. lo form the top morti\L\ cut .1w,1y the I" lung waste port lum, where o,hown. Marl.. the orientation of the t wo o;; hort end piceco; of the nntl'r <;cctlon for rca'iscmbly. Udorc gluing up thc top(~). cut four l"thlcl.. sp.H.cro;; from scrap. M.akc nrto~ln the> arc the o;;.lllw'i\ a' the tcnom on the end.;; (A). Then glue and d.tmp the top (I) )Photo G). Remove the 'IJ><Kcrs and let the glue d ry. I ay out the top <H end arc'> with n beam com1Xl'i'i )Drawing 2), ami band'-lw or jigsaw and \and to the line'>. I hLn rout '" round-owr'> on all emh .111d edge\ of the top lo mal..e It easy to lmert the mug-fitting leg (A) tenom into I he top mortl\e\, \CC Shop Tip 13 /Jt'IIJIV. HnhiHand the top.

Now put it together

Drv-fit the kg\ (A), '>lretchcr<, (B, C), .md top (I) without l..ey'> (D) or wedge\ (f.), ,1nd nMI.;t .my nc<:e\\M}' .ldlu\tmcnt\. Wh(n .,,lll'>ficd with the

fi t, in..crt t hl' lmwr 'it rete her << ) into the leg' and 1.1p tht securel> In plate )Photo H). ((lim! l\ll't ncce\\ilry with this \trong mt'<:<:a I joint.) Apply glue to the dadoe~ In the upper <,trctchcr., (U), ,md ~lidc them Into the notches In 1he end'> (A) (Photo 1). Apply glm to the top edge<; of the upper 'ilrl'tchl'r'i (U). l'hen, capturing the ll'g (A) tcnom In the top (I') morti\Ls, t.1p the Lop Into place with a mallet. Apply glue to t hl' wedge\ (E), and tap t htm Into the tenon groove\ )PhotoJ j. With the glue dry, \and t he wedges flush with the top (I ).ln'iJlCLI all the part\ ami flnl\h .,,,nd \\ hcrc net'tJcd Apply thc fini'>h. (We u'ied Varathant> Prlmlum Wood ~taln no. 206 Summer 0,11.., lopped with three c<>.~t~ of Aqua lar w.ltcr-ha\cd <,,llln pulyurc thane '>andlng with 220-grlt ,,llldpapcr hetwcen coat~.)

2 3

Begin assembly by Inserting the lower stretcher (C) tenons Into the leg (A) mortises, and tapping the keys (0 ) firmly Into place.


by Mark Lane nd Jan Svec Protect de tqn Kevin Boyle llluwatom Roxanne Le Moine; Lorn11 Johnson

Easing mortise edges eases assembly
Dry-fitting and final assembly go faster when morttses and tenons come together without a ftght. Easing the edges of a mortise guides the tenon Into place. To do th1s when fitting the bench-leg (A) tenons Into the top (r) mortises, chuck a 45 chamfer btl in your handheld router and adjust it to cut !4" deep. Make a pass around the mortl~s on the underside of the top (F), and dean up the corners with a chisel.

Spread glue In the upper-stretcher (8 ) dadoes, and tap the stretchers Into the notches In the legs(A).

1 x S\1~ x 96" Red oak (5 bel. ft) 0 E

Materials List
IINI \111 0 \1/ 1


I' I'



Mtl Qty
EO 2


upperstr tcht'f~




lower strctc~r

w w



Find more country furniture plans at :

F' top



'Parts irvtially cut over~~ze. Set the Instructions. Materials key: EO tdgtjoined oak. 0 oak, W-walnut Supply: Spray adM<.t..,., Blade and bits: Stacked dado set. ~ and ~ roundovtr routerbtts, brad point btt.


With the top (F) In place, apply glue to the wedges (E) and tap them Into the grooved tenons of the legs (A).


IOIUS: Set I Side Show of ll1n prajlct ........., lhob It

It assembles quickly and easily w1th biscuits, screws, and dado joints. Overall dimensions are 44" wide x 17W deep x 79" high. Materials needed: Red oak (we used quartersawn) and redoak plywood.

LEGS (Inside face of left.front ond rlghtrear leg pairs shown)

BI TOPVIEW (Left front and rlghtrear leg pairs shown)

Skill Builders
Plunge in and learn the ABCs of biscuitjomery. Discover how to assemble a large project In stages w1th a few clamps.

1120 biscuit slot (cut after assembling leg pairs)

4' A

Start with the legs

Cut the front/h<ICk and ~ide legs (i\, ll) to the ~ile'> listed !Materials List, pase 281. Lay out the angled end at the bottom of a leg !Drawing 11. Handsaw and snnd to the line. u,lng thl<,leg as a tem plate, mark th<. .1ngle on the remaining front/back and -;ide leg<;. B.ll1do;aw and \and them to '>hape. Pair together the front/back and side leg\ (A, B). Noti ng the orlentc.~llon ol the angkd endo; for each pair !Drawing 21, ld,.>ntlfy the loc.llion (left front, right rear, etc.) and the imide face on each leg to ensure wrrect machining and <l'i\embly. l'hen, u\lnga dado blade In your t.lble~w, cut a Y!" dado 1/i" deep on the ill\lth race ol each ~ide leg, when: dimen~loned, tu fit the front / b.u;l-. leg' !Drawings 1 and 1al. Marl- centerpoint<; on ma\klng tape for 1A" hole'l '/"''' deep on the ill~idt face of the o;;ide legs (B) IDrawing 1, Photo A I to receive 'A'' ..,helf ~upport ~. U~lng a hrad poinl bit wrapped with a piece of ma\king t.1pe for ,, vhlltl l depth stop, drill th<.' hole~ . Sand thc lcgc; to 220 grit. l'or t'ach pair of leg<~ (A/B), glue and clamp the front/back leg (A) in the dado In the \ide le~ (B), keeping the

W'dado '!.''deep
13 14"


- I
,.- hole
v.'' deep


parts(.).@ and <f) Location of I partsand@ 4 ~.






Note: Left rear and right front leg pairs arc mirror Image. to mount the top (0) lat<.r, mark centerpuinh l/11" c.1p<~rt lor drilling end hole' to lorm a <.cntcred 1/11." -,Jut ~lui' long at each end of t hc top c teat' (G) 1Drawing3al. Orlil 1 /11." hole' at the marl\ed points. Then drill O\erlapplng holeo, to complete the slotc;. Now drill a centered counter~unk ~hank hole In the bottom fate of each cleat. Mc.~rk the center and emh of the arc he'> on t hc Lop/ bot tom front rai h (C) and bottom 'iide rails ( F) !Drawing 31. Draw the arche'l u\ing a fairing stick. (For <1 tree lairlng stick plt~n, go to 1 1 r .) Banthaw and drum!ltlnd the four arche~ to the mCHked line\. Sand parts C through G smooth. Then glue each top side rail (I~) to a top cleat (G), 1\eeping the part<; square. Next, glue, bl\cult, and damp the '>ide ra il/cleat a'i\cmblic~ and remaining centel top cleat to the top bt~ck rail (0) [Drawlng3l. (Pmitionlng the parts up\ide down makes thl'l easy.) Now add the top front rail (C) !Photo Bl.

Clamp the side legs (B) together with the ends flu sh. Mark centerpolnts for shelf support holes on the legs using a square.

end~ flu~h.

Make the rail assemblies

Cut the top/bottom front rail'> (C), top/bottom bacl-. rail\ (D), top \idl' rail\ (b), bottom side rail<; (I ), and top cleat., (G) to the sl/e'l ll'ltetl. Mark centerline~ for #20 bl~cult slot~ on the front/bt~ck leg'> (i\) and pMt\ C t hrough G, whcr<. d lmtmiomd !DrawIngs 1 and 3j. U..,lng your biscuit joiner with the parts clamped to your workbench for .,,,fet}, plunge a centered \lot ,,teach m.~rked locc.1t ion, e>.cept the mctt Ing locallum on the f ronl/back leg~ c.~nd o11l\idL" race of the top/bottom front and b,lck rail\ (C, D). You'll plunge these after ac;o;ernbllng the top ami bottom rail asc;emhlles.

With the side ralls (E) and cleats (G) glued to the back rail (D), glue, biscuit, and clamp the front rail (C) to the assembly.

6 lo

as~t'mhie tht' bottom rail\ and c;heif: Glue, blscltit, and clamp together the bottom tront rail (C), back rail (D), and side ralls (F). Mca<;ure for equal diagonal~ to verify <,quare. Next cut the bottom ~hclf (II ) to ..,l,e to fit 1he a\semhly. Sand smooth . Glue the \helf to the a'i\emhly, 1\eeping the edgeo; and cnd'i flu c;h.


18x 11 )" F.H wood screw

'I ~'

pilot hole W deep


18x lW brass roundhead screw




cut the bi'ICUit \IOI\ In the 7 runt/l>.td. th k t.. ' l"'ll'r under your hl\c ult joiner
l"t> I
leg!> (A), plt~<.c ,,


piUIIHe tl11.' \lOt\ at the mart..c. d l(>c.,l

llom (PhotoC j. ( I h is com ctly pm ttlu n \ tlw t'l'lltt.r o f thl' hisc u1 t \lot\ 1'/ "frum

the botto m o f the '~PIll'r.) \ H,li n U!>i ng the ~pacer, cut the mating \lot-. In the fan o f the top/ buttolll front oUH.I back r.tll<> ((', D). Glue, hlscull, .uu l cl.11np the back legs (A/ 1\) to tht. top rail/cleat

a\wmhly (C/D/ E/U) and botto m r.11l/ \ he ll ,J\Willbly (C/D/ 1 /11 ) !Drawings 2 .u u l 31 , making \ ttrc that lhe k g\ and top ,,,11/lleat <1 ~\e m bly nrc flu \h .11 the top. \dd the. front legs to the <w.tmhllc.'
(Photo Dl

Pl.tce a ~ thick spacer under your biscuit joiner on the lnJidt face of a side leg (8). Plunge tht slot Into the front or back leg (A}.

After attaching the back legs (A/ 8) to the rail assemblies, turn the unit over. Glue, biscuit, and clamp the front legs In place.

With the back slats (L) on ~"spacers and positioned 9Y.1'' from the ends of the back t rim (J), screwmount the trim to the slats.
lest-Ever ProJects and Shop Tips 2011



ilu" shank hole, countersunk and centered on bottom face

Location f part B


*20 bt~ut \lots. centertd


' 'long, centered


N20 biscuit slot, / centered

I 20 bi:.CUII

1<> mount tht h.Kk trlrn/\lat J\\l'lllbly (J/1 ), ,tpply ).\IUe to the i/1\ldc (notKh.unfered) edge'> of the trim. ( lamp 1he tt'>'>l'mbly In po'>ltion on thl' \helvl n ~ unit, keepln~ tht lmttom fJle of the top trim and hottum ed~e ul the top lMd. rail ( I>) flmh !Drawing 4, Photo fl. l\ute 1h.ll the I of' face of the bottom trim Ul 1\ '' proud ol the bottom \htlf (II). Mount the \ldl' trlrn{\1.11 iWitmhllt'' (1/1\) to the unit, pmitioning them on tht unit in tht -;ami.' wav J'> <lt'\Uihcd 1111111 e. Giuc and cl,unp till' holtom front trim U> to till' bottom \hl'lf (II ), flush with the top f<ltt..'. \and tht 10111t \mouth. I<> form the fron t/ bact.. .1nd \Ide ww tnm (M, l\), tut ,, 1 x6x.~6" bl,mt... nout a r., mvc.. ,tlnnH l',lt'h t-dgc of thc blant... llwn np .1 'wide \tnp I rom cath edge. lkpc.ll tu rnal.c lour more '>trip'> I hen trO'>\tut the lront/b,K t.. and ~Ide trim p1ete\lU length I rom the 'It rip~ to fit \nugl) bl'tween the leg'>. <.olue nnd clamp till' trim pllt:t'\ In pl.lle IDrawing 21.

Add the trim and slats

ut the '>idl' trim (I) ilntl trunt / l>.~tl.. trlmU> to the \lte'> lhted. ( lu emlm' a '>llll~ tIt, we mea !lured bet ween the ll~~ lor tht c~.K t l en~th~ of tht trim. I hen Wt' idulll fled the locilt Iom ot the pkte\ tu tmure <.:(>rrecl il'>'>embly.l Cut the \ide \lat\ (1\) ,1nd had, '>I<H'I (I) to the lndl t'ated \Itt\. nout 1 dhtmfer~ .tlon~ tht <.dge'> .1nd emh of the \Ide trim (I) .llld front/1>.~<.1.. trim U> !Drawings 2 and 41 . Sand tht lrlm,tnd '>\ (K, 1.). l'n a\wmble the top and hut tom hat'!.. trim (J) nnd ha(t.. \lats (I.), layout tht pMt\ with t ht f.ICt''> up on,, wmk\ur f<Ke. Plilte '>pater'> under the''"'' to pml linn t IH.'Ill 1 /~' from the ill\ult IJn of t lw trim !Drawing 4, Photo E l I <Xiltl' thc \lilt\ 9 1 "" trnm thttnd\ ofthc tnm 1Drawlng2l < lamp the trim and \lat\ to your wurt.. \urf.ltl.'. Drill mounting holt-' thruugh the trim .tnd centered Into the \lal\. l>rl\e the \trCW'>. A~.1in min).\ the '>f>lt er'l, mou1H the \lt.ll' trim (I), nrltered end to end, tot he 'lldl' ~lat'> (I\).


5 6

D Glue and cl amp the b ack trim/slat assembly

(J/ L) In p lace, aligning the bottoms of the top b ack trim (J) and b ack r ail (0 ) flush .


On to the top and shelves

F.dge-join ')tock to form nn 18x44 1h" piece for the top (0). Then crosc;cut nnd rip the top to the finlc;hed si1e of 17!1.!><44". Rout '/11" chamfer~ nlong the top and bottom edges and ends of the top Drawlngs2 and 41. Sand the top smoot h. 1 Clamp the top (0) to the unit, centered front-to-hac" .1nd ~ide-to-'litlt'. Using tht' mounting hole') and \lots 111 the top cleats (C,) ac; guide~. drill pilot holes in tlw top. Drhe the bra\~ roundhead \l rew\ with I Iat W<Hher\ IDrawing 21 . Cut the shelves (I') to 'lile. Then cut the 'lhelf end and front edging (Q, R) to the sl/c li\ted to fit 1he shelves. h" Using a dt.~do blade, cut a '/H" rt.~bbct 1 deep in the front ctlgir,g !Drawing 2al . Now glue and damp thc edging to the c;hclvcc;, flu \ h wit h t lw Wp fa<.:e~. ~and the .tsscrnbllcs smoot h.

Finish up
For ca\e of finl'lhing, rcmow the top (0). Flnish-c;and any arcac; of the unit that need it to 220 grit. Rtmovc the dust. Fi nl'lh the project as you whh . For two e.l\y-to-appiy and grcat-loo"lng nn i'lh opt iom, sec oppo\11'. (We chose the General Hnishes water-based l.arly American stain .1nd a water-l>a.,e<.l polyurethant topcoat lor our project.) R emount the top (0). I hen imtall the shelve\, where you wish, u.,lng 'A'' shelf o;;upports. Now pl.~ee M>me favorIte decoralive piece\ .md other Item~ on the shelve~, and Mep had. to .1tlmire them and your amazing handlwor" .

CuHing Diagram

1 2

\4 x 5Y:I x 96" Quarters.lwn red oak (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

fic!'D .0. tu7't.' @



fl.) (2 needed)


l;. x 71/ x 96' Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd




x 96' Quartersawn red onk (5.3 bd ft.) (2 needed)

I< Ll:

x 7V x 96' Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)


Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Jeff Mertz Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; lorna Johnston


v. chamfers



}.. x 4a x 96' Red oak plywood

Ptane or resaw to the thkkncss listed In the Matcrklls List.



@ .<D
Yu" sh<mk hole, countersunk

Materials List

\ Ill


21/" 2Y:I"

1 '

M1tl. Qly

A front/back legs

00 00 00 00 00 00 00

side legs top/bottom front ralls top/bottom back ralls


78\'.i' 38W l8V1'



~ 414'

E top sldt mls F bouom side ratls G top cleats


12' 12" 12'

2 2


Note: rront/back legs@<md side legs@ not shown for clarlly

bottom shelf sldetrlm J front/back trim K side slats L back slats M' front/back covetrtm
I N* side cove trim


1 31 /J" 381/J'



101 .')'

00 00 00 00 00 00





64'" 64''
)41 /J'

4 4

a x 1'/J" F.H.

wood screw




lOp shelves Q shelf end edging R shelf front edgng

~ "'4" 1 7Y:I'





1 2V1"


~ w.

00 00


'Parts ll'lltla!ly cut Over54Ze. See the Instructions.



Materials key: QO quartersawn red oak, OP red oak plywood, EQO edgejolned quartersawn red oak. Supplies: ~20 blscwts. ~ax1W flathead wood screws 120), ~ax1~ brass roundhe~ screws (9), a brass flat washers (9), }'4" shelf SUpportS (16). Blade and bits: Dado bl~e set, '4' br~polnt bit. lt' c011e and 45" chamfer router bits. Best Ever Projects and Shop Tips 2011



Finishing TiPS
A low-odor choice for indoor finishing
stains and finishes have become popular In commerita l and home 'lhop~ acrm'i North America. For the dhplay shelve-; on pa, '(e 24 and the table shown at rlgl1t, we applied General Hnishe~ EarlyAmcrlcan water-based stain and ZAR Ultra Max watcr-ba~e<.J satin polyurethane. Speat..lng from experience, water-based 'italn ca n be a challenge to apply. I cave It on a few 'iecond<, too long, even undN Ideal condltiom, and it quickly dric\. Dry air only exacerbates the problem. I or best results, try these lips.

e Avoid blotchy stain. Sanding up
to 220 grit reduces blotching. Just know that the smooth surface traps fewer stain pigment particles and produces a lighter color. _ e Avoid lap marks. Work quickly In small areas, but keep overlaps to a minimum to avoid lap marks. Stain long project pieces, like the legs on the display shelf, using generous amounts of stain in long strokes. e Reapply to darke n . To slightly darken light spots, remoisten the towel used to apply the stain, and gently wipe the light section until the color matches the surrounding surfaces.

Matching plywood and solid oak.

Remove excess stain. To remove dried excess stain, make a couple of passes with a moistened coarse cloth, such as burlap, as shown In Photo A, until the color evens out. e Wipe on, wipe off. Stain application method: Wipe stain on with a soft cloth towel; then remove 1t immediately with a clean towel, as shown In Photo B.

Take care when staining projects th.n mix veneer plywood and solid oak. The plywood may require additional stain applications because it absorbs less stain, producing a lighter color. e Dealing with raised grain. Should the stain raise the wood grain slightly, make three light pas~es over the stained areas using 320-grit abrasive Be careful not to sand through the stain; if you do, you'll need to reapply stain.

Avoid clogged spray equipment.

Water-based fmish dries qu1ckly, even inside a spray gun. Clean spray eqUipment between coats to prevent finish from clogging the sprayer. e Brush or spray on finish . To apply the topcoat, brush on or spray on with a touch-up sprayer. The touch-up sprayer produces less overspray than a full -size spray gun. e Three coats complete the Job. One coat of finish seals the wood; apply two additional topcoats to protect the wood from spills and fingerprints .

Stlns: Early American water-based stain, call General Fm1shes at 8007836050, or visit ZAR Ultr Mu wter-bsed stln poly: United Gllsonlte Laboratories, caii80084S-S227 or visit Tble plns: The tables used to demonstrate our finishes are modified versions of the smallest of a set of three mission nesting tables, plan No. OP-00015. To purchase the plans, go to ''


A moistened, coarse cloth (burlap Is a good choice} can remove dried deposits of water-based stain. Then re-staln for an even color.

m Apply stain with a circular motion to

work pigments Into the pores. Then wipe with the grain and remove any surplus.



leltlvr Project and lhop np 2011

'WI" hole


;, deep

l'l" long
\4" hole


-ryr; / r



" plug

'" round overs

a" counterbore
wath a~


ere\ .1 proj<.ct that r<'nlly met..\ lxll h funct ionally t~nd In the eye'> ol the lutl,y recipient. lie\Ide\ that, you'll lind thi'> proj<.ct ,1 purl' Joy to hulld with it\ 'llmph: join<.ry and full \ltc pattern\ Included for forming t he gently Lurved profi le\ on p.HI\ And wh<.th<.r younMI\c it with Lherry or pine, ,1, \\C d1d , children w1 ll rind It\ 6Y. pound\ <.'a'>y to tote from plan to pl.ct..



pilot hole 11;/' dl'ep

shank hole centered ansld


......... Cit

1 rabbet

!Yo' deep

1'4 ( ,;

18 x 2" F.H wood screw "

j 'Jrl

First up: the cradle parts

Ed!.;ejoln enough h"l h k J.. 'lt<x.l\ to form an II x27" bin n J.. for tlw end'> (A). Plane the biMlk to W thick, and tro\\CUI it to form two llxl i ' hl,lllk\. I rom '-'~ ha rdhoa rd, cut ,111 11 x 13" hlant.. to form a tcmplat<. for the end plen~ . t-.lake two photocopte\ oltht. End Pattern on past 1-1. I rim the patterm to 'IIMpl' lu rn unc pattern OV\.'t, .Hld ,tllgn and 1.1pc It to t h\.' other p.llt<.rn to mak\.' a t'Ompletc (.ntl p..tttcm . Uo,lng a ll<lll or an ,1wl, punch a \ ll\,111 hole through till' pattl' rn ,It the centerpoint\ fur till' four \ <:ounh. rhore'i and for th\.' "" hole at the top. Atlhere the pattern to the tt.m pltltt. \\ lth '>pra} adhc\IVl'. Banti\,IW .tnd 'and tht. tcmpl.llt.' to 'liMp<. llwn drill 1 hok'l through thc h: mplt~tt. at the punt. hcd-holc lot.atiom . Piau the template on the out'lltle I.Kt.' of one of the 1 be U " hl,lnk\ with th<. bottom <.dges aligned, and tr,lmltr

the \hapc to tht.l>lank. lmert a nail or an ..twl into each o f the 1 " hol e~ in the tem platt! anti m.~rk the hoil' ccnteqx>lnl\ on the blank. 1\ow m.~rk the other hlank. 1~a nd\a w nnd '><llld the blanl\<; to ~hapc. U-.lng a "'" h m tner bit < Hltl centering It on the m.~rket.l hole location at the top of eadl bl,mk, drill .t v,.<Jeep hole to receive the cradle dowel Now rout ~ roum.lO\er\ on all edge!> except the bottom, wlnre \hown on Drawing 1, .Uld 'land thl' routed l'dgc\ \moot h. You'll drllltht ~ wunterhore'llater. Cut the \Ide\ ( B) to the \izc llstcd In the Mattrlt~h ll'it. Rl.'ferrlng to Draw lngs 1 and 1a, hewl rip ,1 'A" groove Va" dccp and 1" from the bottom of each \Ide ptccc on II) imltle f<ICe I<> rcceJve the bottom (C ). I ht.n ht.vcl-rlp a I S angle along the bottom cd~t of both piece~, where shO\\ n . r rom ~~ h.trdlx>a rd, cut a 2 xs blank to form a prolllc tutlplatl'. You'll U'>t' It to mark tht profile on the \Idee; (13), and laiN the \ uppom ( h) and


th\.' \tr<.tdler (()). Mat..<. ,, phutnt:<>p)' of th\.' Profile Pattern on f'IISt' ~4 . \dher<. thc pJttNn to thl' hardb<>.~ rd with ' pray Jtlhc\1\'C. Ut~ ntl ~aw Jnd '<llld the tcmpl.llt' w \hJJ~. I hen d1 ill ,, 1 ' marking hoi<.' through the tcmplate where 'lhm., n on 1he Pttern.


nefl'r to Drawing 1 for t lw Ion of the profile on t hc \lllt'\ (B). l'lwn, u\111).; the proflk templ,lll', marl-. the profile on till' \ltlt pll'n,, ,,, o,huwn In Photo A. U.tml\t~W .md \illld to thl' rnMktd line..'\ on c..ach pltn. f'.ll'\ t rout 41" mund-ovc..r., alon~ till' top cdgc~, Nhul' \hown In Drawing 1. I rom v, h,mlwood pi~ wood, <. ut thl' bottom (( J to c.ltc.. Now flnl\h\,Jnd t he. c..m.h, \Ide..,, <111d bottom w 220 grit.

Make the support frame

rrorn 11/'-thlcl.. \tock, u\l' ,1 cirllc cutter to lllt two 1W'- diJm~tl'r di'>C'i for thl' '>Jl<Kl'r\ {1)). Clamp a di\c, with ,, houd underne<H h, an a h.lllthntw or drlll-pre'i., \ aw Mtc.r ) by centering on the circle. Position the sides (8) ~ back from the edges of the ends (A placing " thick sp.tcers between the clamp's bar and the sides cutter\ pilot hole, drill at both ends. ,, t hole thmuRh t he. 'lpacer. Rcpt'<ll for tht othlr 'IJl.IH'r I hen <.umpktc.. tcmpl,ttc contour on the ~oup \and the 'ipJcer'l and 'let thc..m .l'>tdt port. '\l<,o lmtrt .1 nail or Jll awl through ut thl '>Up port., (l ), h:tt (I ), ,md thl 1 hole in the tcmpiJtc, Jnd mJrk 'itrt:tther ((,)to \Ill'.< ut .1 2" d.tdo the. l'l'nll'rpoint for a ~ hole tu renIH' dtcp on the. out<,adt f.lte of the. kc.. t and t he. <: md It' dmHI Ora\' li nc<, to con nc..< t a matang 1~ rabhtt dup on the the contour\ along both edge'i of the In Ide face of the o,upporto,, whtrt .,hm., n \upport. M.trk the other ~uppnrt. on Drawing 1, to form,, l.1p lolnt Band'law t~nd \anti the. two '>llpport'> Rtferri ng to Drawing 2, IJ)' mat t ht I" (I) to 'ihapl'. U'img a W For'>tner hit, radii at the top l'lld'i ol til<.' feet (I) drill l,;".det r hole at the rn.~rked loca.tntl the y~ cutout at the hottom. Bantl- tion on each >art. the feet to '>h.tpe, ,tnd -,,and <,me>ot h. U\lng till' tempiJte, mnr"- the profllt Refer to Drawing 1 for tlw location of on hoth nd'i of the \trc..tcht.r ({,) the profill' on the 'iupport\ (JI.). Then ,tlnng hot h cdJ cs, where \hown on Draw mJrl.. the profile at the bot tom ol ,, '>UP lng 1. DrJw l one~ to join thl' prolllc-., port on il'> Imide'l', a\ \hown In Photo c. Repo\it ion the template .lt the top of thl' ~oupport on it'i Imide face wath the roundtd top end of the templ.ltl' flush with the ~up port'"> end. Mark the

Assemble the cradle


lrom a '"dl< llllttc..r dowel, nat t pil'ce\ l l { long. (,lue ,, dowc..l in thl' l ( top hole In c.Jdl end plen ( \). Dry-,l\'ll'tnblc. (no the. tml 2 2 pit'Ct'\, till' <,ldt\ .md till' hnttom (( ), ,,., \hown In Photo B U\lng a


h>r\t nc..a bit, drill c..ountc..rhurt\



.11 t hc.. nM lot .11 Iom on t ht tnd<, (/\).

Drill ptlnt <IIlli wu ntc..r~u n k .,h,m 1.. hok'i centl'red In the. c..oualterhcm.,, whl'rl' \hown on Drawing 1. I hen drive In the fl,ll htt~d \l n.w~. U\1 ng ,1 ~ plug nat tc..r, cut 12 pluw W Jon~ from lcftov...r nHltl'rlal.


SHOPnP 24 Malee plugs blend ln. Match

wood color and groin Ifyou plan to sto/n your pro)t. For best oppeoronce, ollgn the plugs' groin w1th thot of the surrounding wood. "'tt .l'>itk four ph&'~ (,Juc.. thl' remJinplugo, in the l'ountc..rbore\. Wath the glue. dry lit\ he~t to let it dr} mernl~ht), '>.llld tIll' plug., flu\h .


2" dildo 11

deep on outside face

With the profile template positioned on the Inside face of support (E) and aligned with the rabbet's top edge, mark the profile on the support.
lea l-Iver Project and I hop l lpe 2011



and clamp the spacl.'r\ (I)) to the 'lupport'l, ccntl'rlng them on the tlo,.,elc;. Remove t lw dowels.


Assemble and apply the finish

Mark <I ci.'nterllnc on the top edge of the ~tretdll'r (G) at both ends, and mark a centerline "lth the grain on the Imlde face of the ">llpport'l (l ) I rom ')crap, cut t\Hl "thlct.. spaci.'r\ 6 long for po~ltlonlng the stretchi.'r ag,llnst the 'lupports. With the \trctchcr supported by I he '>pacer\ at <.'<lCh end, clamp the ')UP pnrt assemhllc\ (l:/f) to th<. \trctcher, a\ \hm.,n in PhotoD , aligning the stretcher and support c<.ntcrlinl:\. 1\ow, in the center of the cou ntcrl)()rC~ In the ~up ports, drill pilot and C<}Uilll'r\Unk shank hnlcs for the mountrng \Crl'W\ to the depth 'lhown on Drawing 1, and drive in the \crew'> l),md the a'i\l'mbli.'d frame to 220 grit, and remove the dmt Remove the screws from one \UP port ll'>Wmhly, and '><.'pt~rate it from tlw fram<. I hen chcct.. the lit of the dowels in the uadlc end\ (J\) with thl.' hole In thi.' '>pacer (D) un the removed support. the dowel\ us ncce\sary \O they rot.H<. frtely In thi.' 'lpaci.'r but arc not loo'>c With the lri.'e end ol the \lretcher 'lupportL-d by J ~t hck sp<~nr, lmt<tll the c;r,ldlc In the fmmc, ,,~ ~hown In Shop Tip 25 ct/IOI'l'. l'hcn drlw In the \Ui.'W'I to reall<t<.h the rcmuvtd support a\wmbly. FlnJIIy, glue the four pluj.!'> tll<lt you wt ,1\ldi.' carlil'r In thl' countl'r bure~ In thl '>Upport\. I et thl' glue dry overnight, then .,,,nd thl' phK' llush. Chcct.. t h<. doll cradll fur .111y rough nc\\ and '>ht~rp edgl''l, thl:n .,,,nd an>" .~rca~ th.ll need It Remow the du t. l o flnl\h thl' dll'rr) doll nadlc, appl} a \t,ll n follcnwd hy two co,lts of a clca r fin 1\h, c;anc.llng to ~20 grit hctween

2 3

With the stretcher (G) supported on the sp acers and clamped between the support assemblies, drill pilot holes Into the stretchers, and drive In the screws.

th<.n banc.haw and sand tht \lrl'tcher to \hapc Hout y~ round-OH'r\ t~long till' top and bottom edge' of till' 'ltretcher, where 'ihown. Giue and clamp the 'upport\ ( I~) to the fl'l't (F). With tht glui.' dr>, rout W roundO\'l'r' t~long the top l'dge' of the assembllt.\ t~nd on thl' l'utout arl:a at the bottom of thi.' fi.'i.'t, whi.'rt 'lhown I hl'n using ,, hi" For~tner hit, drill V.." di.'cp counti.'rbort''l on the out\ldl? fatl.' of thl' 'luppurt\, ''hcrt '>hm' n. Du not drill the courHt:r\unk 'lhant.. hult'l in thl' countl?rhorc\ untillndi<.ated l'o tl.'mpor.~rlly align thl' 'll>.ller\ (I)) with the 'luppom (1 .) during glul.' up, cut two I "'" long ph.n'> I rom a " dowel. lmert ,, dowl?l (no j.~lue) Into tht hole In the tup of i.'ilCh 'iliJliXHt ( llw l'Xtra I" ,IIIOW'I you to pull till' tlm,i.'h out of the huh. ,liter t hl' j.!llll' <.1 ric\.) Now

Paraffin lubricates
For smooth action, apply paraffin wax to the dowels; then install the cradle between the supports. To simplify task, clamp the cradle to the support at one end to ease assembly ell the opposte end.

(\\c med Mlnwa' Chcrrywood Gel

and al'rtN>I polyurtthane.) lo llnl'>h the pine doll cr.1dle, apply two t(>.lt\ of primer, sanding hetwcen cnt~t s to 220 grit I hen apply two coat'l of ,1 pJint of your (.holce (We U\l'd <..,lldtkn\ Interior lt~tex flat paint, tinted ~ced PeMI.)


Wnllt'n by Owen Duvall Prott'CI dt"\190 Jeff Merh llluHratton> ltou nne LeMoine; l o rn a Johnon

A' ends

Cutting Diagram

B sides C bottom

W 101/o" W Sit








l YI dlam. 2" 16 ..


Cherry (3.3 bd. ft.) Plane or resaw to the theckness listed n the Materials L1st.

x 7'' x 60'

F feet G stretcher
'Pa~ts IMially




c c

2 2


"'@ 'rmwumm

I mrm;m'. '" . e~
Hardwood plywood

cut owrsze.Set th~ lnstructons

Mterll key: EC edgt-,oult'dcho rl'forpllle.Ccholceol

cherTy or pine. HP .llafdwood plywood SupplleJ: 1 14' rurdbolld. ~I'A' and 18<2' ftati'!Nd wood so~. spr'Y ldhtslvf. '.4"-dlamtttr dol>.tl6'1oog, paraffln wax, Bl1de and bitt: Stack~ dado blade, \4' and 1 4' Footner blu. ' ~nd W roo~ b1li. 1-\' plug cuner, adJUstable circle

x 7Yo x60' Cherry (2 7 bd. ft.)

~X 3~1 X 96' ChNry (2.7 bd ft .)




Align top corners of @ here. Align ends of @and @ here. Join patterns here.

W' hole for marking





Join patterns here.

~ ----- - -- - --- W' round-over

- ------------------------j_____________________:

Pendulum Cradle
Find more kid's fu rniture and toy plans at toyplans

END FULL-SIZE HALF PATTERN (Outside face shown) (2 needed)


. ,---........ \ ' ..
I '




-- ,,..

, :o ' '


Ya" counterbores W' deep on outside

face, with a

%4" shank hole

centered Inside

W' hole

W deep on
outside face

Location of part on inside face

) --34

Location of part (B) on Inside face

No round-over along bottom edge

=~:=J .

'-...i. .



Joins pattern here.

tlvr ProJcta and Shop Tlpe 2011


for20UJ -

YOU l&t:


305 250 920 570 1,625 810

Shop ProJects Weekend ProJects Tool Reviews Shop nps
Special pricing for owners of the 25-year collection!

Furniture Projects

Skill-building Techniques

lOI..InJ.t for ,, W('i.' l..~lld pmi('C.:I [ I hell will yield >c.:ar\ of outdoor \c.:rvlc~) ll ~rc.: it i\. I hi\ conlou rc.:d, (yc.:-c.:-.ltch in~ lwnch dt. rin~., it'> durahlllt > I rum me.:\.. \ OIId mmt l\l' .,uu.l tc.:mn IOinc.:ry and d('Cll} n.'\i\tant nd.~r. It lhl\ lu'>l l.:lght dHitrc.:nt JMfl'>, .111<.1 w~'\ '-' lndudt:d full ''''-' l"UrHd \('at-rail and \uppmt pc~tt~rm for your {()1\\ l'llll'llll' Bl'tttr Yl'l, you < :an hlllld thl' hc.:m:h I rum knott }"-grade c.:cdJr pml\ .1nd d(c; 1\ ho.ard..,, yl'I .IC hll'\l' the knot-frc.:c appc.:.~r.1n c~ of c.: leargrade.: c.:~d.u .11 ,, of th~
C.:0\1. Hlli.'.Hil

A low-budget way to get clear cedar

If you've tned to buy clear grade cedar recently, you've discovered that it's a pncey, spec1al-order 1tem. To build this garden bench with premium stock, you would spend about S245, enough for most of us to say "Uncle." But, for about one th1rd of this cost, you can get the SJme unblemished look that I did using readily available knottygrade cedar (found at home centers) and working around the knots when laying out the parts, as shown right Of course, you'll need to spend a little time finding the clearest boards (it took me about 15 minutes), and you may need to buy an extra board or two for insurance, as I did But the savings arc significant. My materials cost about~ S85, including the extra boards.

how, "l'l' Shop Tip 26 Imm uu r pc.:nn> pilll h In~ Dc\l~n I (litor, ll'll ~flort1, ,,, '~'>:Ill.


Ot\lt)n fdltor

Look over your stock to find the clearest areas. Then, lay out th e parts with chalk, as I'm doing here on a 4><4 post for th e bench legs (A).


lest-lEver Projects and Shop Tlpe 2011

Start with the legs

rrom a 4~< I t:t.d.~r (H>'It 8' ton~ . cut tour clear 18"-long\ for the leg~ (J\l l \lrtg your jointer, -,qu.~re two adlannt face\ on h ph..ce. I hen cut a 2 ~"-'lquare leg from each piece. M.trt... the t wu lx. \t f.ICe\ on each leg for the out~lde I hut lay out the ~<2 1r mortlc,ec, on the leg\' Imide f,tc<:c;, whert d1memloncd on Orawlng 1, mat...lng \un. you h.tH' mlrrorl'd pair\ of leg\. U\in~ a ,. I or\tnl'r bit In }our drill pre ., and a ltrKe to "-cl'P the holec, aligned, drill the 7 .. cll:cp morti'I<:S. Square thetr \Ide\ <llld end~ with a chl~cl.


27 Leave room for glue. Cur mor rises W deeper than the mating tenons' length to prevent glue squeeze-out .
Rout I-'ll" round-ovlrc, along all of the leg\' edgec, < Uld l'lld\. I hen \,tml the lege, c,mooth U\lng IHO gilt \.Utdpaptt.


Next up: the frame parts

1rom )/4 Cl'da r dtt't...\ pl.Hll'd to I" thick, cut the \eat r.tll\ (B), bottom stdc raih (<. ), .llld lront/b<lct... r.tll\ (D) to tht \IZC\11\ted In the MaterlalsUst Cut an extra plen with tht c,amc\~ and width lor forming te't h:non'o. (Our dect... hot~rch mta,und 11 /,, thitl... Wt planed them tu I" thick h} rtmoving equal material Irom huth tau:'o.)

lo form the tenum on the r.lh' emh, (You'll need to flip one of the pattl'rm where d Imcmioned un Drawing 2a, fit over to wmplltt the contour.) Now your tablc'oaw with a "t dado blade, and band\aw .md ~and to the pattern line. rai.,c the bl.tdL to ~". Nl'\t att.tth an U'olng the rail a~ a template, mart... the auxiliary flncc to the \JW\ rip fcnn Jnd contour on tlw other <;eat r.1il, ,md cut an auxlliar} extt'n\lon to thc mittr ~auge ,and \and It to \hape. Remove all of the as a to pn.:wnt tear-out l'o')ltton papt.>r pattern\. the fence \O It ju\1 tout ht\ the dJdo 1ower }OUr dado bl,tde to 4". I hl'n, blade. NO\~ form a t('non ~ ion~ on making two pa'l e<i, cut a I' dado the end of }our tc'>t plecl', a\ \hm' n In ll'ntcrt.'<.l on the tmlde face of the bottom PhotoA. Test the tmon\ fit in thl'll~ (A) \l<lt rail\ (C), where shown on Drawing 2. mortises. If neccssar}, adju\t }OUr \etup, \Jow, cut two t dadoes 1 /" deep on the and rl'tc~t. When you're ~.lll'>flcd \\it h tll\lcle face of the front/bact... rail' (l)), the fit, cutthl' ttnun' on till' lnd\ of the where dlmtnsloned . rallo; (8, C, D). Ralsc your dado blade to Y,", C rm~c ut hot h l'dgl'\ D LEG on your t e~t piece to trim the (Left rear shown) tenon's wldt h to 2 Y.>". ( heel.. 11'> fi t In the ll'g mortlw'>. AdJust the blatle htlght, If ncce~sary, to .~ehieve a good fit. Now trim tltc tenon\ on the rail\. 1,.. Makc four cupic'l ol the I combined wat r,all (B) and c;cat-support (I> lull-'>ill' half pattern'> on P"S'' .JO. ~et two of the cople'> ,1\tdl lor,, scat support. Dut out ,lfld c,pray-adhere the rl'maanlng copil\ to,, '>t'<ll rail, ,,ll~ninR the apphcahlc p.tttLrm' tnd\ ~ x 2';, mortl$eS, w ath thc tcnom' \houldcr... '' dt>tp



2Y," morme,
"'" detp

--.,,__-it'?'" l't" round ovrrs on all edges 1ndends

Keeping the end of your test piece tight against the auxiliary fe nce, crosscut both faces to form a tenon l\'' thick.

\itJrk th~ t~nt~r of th~ archc.\ on tlw bo ttom !lid~ rail\ (C ) :md fmnt/lMc.: k rails (0 ), \\lll~ rt dim~mioncd . I h ~ n hcmd a fairing '>tkk to th~\l' point<., and d~<lW the archc'l. (For ,, fr~~ fai ring \tiel.. pl.ul, go to uod "'"' 1 11 on / !11111 ~ .) UJ nd saw and sand thl' .m: lws to sh.tpc. Round over the ~dgc.s of the ralls (1\, C. [)),where 'hown Silnd parts smooth. Cut the bc.:nth \trltcher (I ) and \l'at ~upport'l (I ) to t he. 'Iiles il'ltcd I h<.n n. tril've the two copic\ o f the wat \ UP port half pattern, and '>pray-adhere thl' m to a ')Cat ~upport, all~ni ng them with th~ 'lupport '\ end\. Band sa\" and .,,,nd them to shap~. !\ow, u\ing thi\ p.Ht '"" template, marl.. the contour o n th ~ other wat support.111d tut and it

Rcmow tlw p<tth:rn~ .tnd ,,,nd \uppurt'> and ' trctc.:hcr ~muoth.


Assemble the bench frame

To il\\l'lllhll thc.: lcg'> (\),


(B), .md bottom 'li<.ll' r<lih << ), fir\l n..fcr to Or1wlng2 for till' r~quin:d ori lntatlnn of tlw JMrts 'J hen. rl'flrring

to the nMnut,l<.:turcr''i im trurtlom, apply a thin l.lH'r of polyurlt h.Ull' ~lue In t hl' mort he.'\ of l wo kg,, .utd il\~cmbll the Ic.~' n '>Cat rail, .md a bottom 'lidt rail. C l.unp thl' il\'ll'lllhly together, ,1 ., '>hnwn In Photo B. ( lo IHl' \ cnt '>qut:l'IC out, wc applied glue on i> in thl' mort i w'>.) Hl:Jll'<ll to "'~cmbic thl' uthlr two ll'g'l, r.lil, .md bottom 'Ide rail.

Using scrap "" hardboard strips to protect the legs (A) from marks, clamp together the legs, sea t rail (B), and bottom side rail (C).

.,...,2" '
v. round overs/:.
on all e<lges and ends

'!1 shank hole,


1' dado ~ d~p. centcre<l M8 x 21/J" st.1lnless steel F.H screws

pilot hole ,,.. deep

round ov~r along outside edge


y. round overs

1 8"

----------------~ I


s x 2\-'l"

F.H. screw



leltEver ProJect and lhop Tip 2011

Cuffing Diagram

31.'J x 31 '1)( 96'' Cedar (4x4) Plan~ or re\aw to the thicknesses listed In the Matenal~ Ll~t .

l l 11 x Sl.'J x 96" Cedar (5/4x6)

Materials List

11'-11\lllll \Ill T W l




bottormide ra~ rronubackrcll$





c c c



2" 2"

c~ter loC.'.st \tat\


c c


Mt rtls lct y: C cno1ce or cedar, redwood.

or cypress

Supplies: Spruy adhesiVe, polyur thane glue,

f8>e2 ~"~talnlcu steel flathead sc:rews1121. r8><1K" ~talnlcss steM flathead sc:rews (281

Blch nd bit: Dado blade set, I\" roundOIIer

router bit, W


With th e seat-support assembly (0/F) on 1YJ" tall spacers, glue and clamp the end assemblies (A /8/C) to th e front/ back ralls (0).

Using Y"thlck spacers and hardboard scraps to p osition the front/back seat slats (G) o n the frame, drill the holes, and drive the screws.

Round over tht ''''''' l'UH'-'' and cml\, where '>hown on Drwlng 2 I hen \and the'> 'nmoth. lkforl' mountln~ till' 'llat'>, appl} ,, < of watNpmof oil wood wa llr. (We U\Cd lkhr Pn. mlum ( ilar V\l,lllwr proofing \\oud ~iller & l'lnl\h I

2 ami

(.,Jlll' .111tl d.unp the -.upporh (I) bct\\l'l'll thl lront/bttlk r.tlb {I)J, dll'l J.. lo t -;qu.~re. lhl'll drill wun h.'r\unJ.. \trl'W hole-. through tlw r.tllo,, centered In t hdr dadol ' .tnd in thl' 'llfl port\, '"herl' \hm' n l>riH thl' \Cfl\\' \, (V\e buu~ht the \tJillll'\\\llel 'ICrl'W'> tor our pmjl'tl trom to.tdel'iy\. ( ,o to mdl'l'I}\.<.'Om ur <..til MOO 44 i *'9 i71 ".ll'P t hl ,t\\l'lllhlv on il n tl '>urfat<.' whill thl' glul' dril'\. (,Jul .tntl then loowl\ d.unp till' l'ntl ,1\,emhlle\ ( \/11/( J to thl.' wat -.upport ,1\\llllhly (I)/I), ,,., \hOWil In

Photo C. lu .t\utd U'>lllH l'\tr.t long d,unp' 111 tht-. \tl'P d,unp thl' \l'll r.ul\ (B) to I hl' \tlflport ., (I), '" \hown. llll'll glw.. t lw \t rlldll'r 1I ) 1n pl.1<:e hlt Wl'l'll tIll' bottom -.illl' r.u 1\ (( ), .md t ightcn the d.unp-.. Drill <.ountcmanJ.. ~Ue\\ hull'' through thl' bottom ,Jtll.o r.tih, centered o\lr thdr d,tdOl'\, and in thl' 'lln.'td1l'r. Now d riv~o t hl. "rl'W'>.


28 Lg soak for sealer. To give tht bottoms of the legs extra protection, soolc them in seoltr In a disposable pie pan.

Add the slats and finish

Planl' S/ I ledar dlcl\ ho,srd' to ''!" thkJ... ( ut the front/h,t<. J.. 'll'ilt '''''' ({,) and untl'r 'IC<ll ''' " (I I1 to \ltc.

Whln the waler drlc'l, pmitiun tlw front/b,tt:J.. '' (( > on tIll' hlm h fra m c wll h t heir l'lll" y, lrum till' ll~' (\)and thllr amide <.'dge\ tlu\h vdth thl' les.ts' tmtde l.tll.''> "' 'htm n In Photo D. I hen drill wuntl'r,unJ.. '>crt w hull\ through t hl' '''''' .111d an to the Irunt/ h<tcl.. rail-. (I>), whl.'rl' '>hown on Orawlng2, and drin lhl' ..crew\


------ - ~-----------.:__


Center of parts@and~



(shown w it hout tenon)

Position tlw center wat 'llat"> (II )

on the benc h frame. inserting

(not hardboard) between the m and the front/bad. ~t'.ll'> (G). Cente r the cat ~lal'> 'lo thty overhang the scat rallc; (B) W at c.1ch e nd. Make any .tdlustmcnts nel'dl!d fo r uniform spacing. 'Jhen d1lll wunter'lunl.. screw ho le<; through the ~cat ... tab and into the ~cat rail~ <H1d \cat ~upport\ (F), where \hown, and drive the \<:rcws. Now m ove tht lwnch to your garden, !..lei.. bacJ.., and lttl..c '><>me lime to \melt the rme!> .

!t~"-t hkk

SHOPTIPS 29, 30, 31 & 32

Softwood savvy times 4

e Avoid sapwood . It's generally not

decay resistant. Almost alwcly~ It appear~ as t he lighter matenal in a g1vcn piece of lumber, as shown at nght e Use quarter sawn lumber. Quartersawn wood resists warp1ng better than flawsawn lumber. Also, quartersawn wood expands and contracts across Its width only about half as much as flatsawn lumber (See the examples at right.) Although such wood can somet1mes be diff1cult to fmd, you can usually create It by buy1ng w1de boards (more than twice .1s w1de as you need) and cutting out the unstable pith wood center (the innermost rings). e loo k for tight-grain lumber. Such dense pieces are more stable, making them less prone to cracking, cupping, warping, and shelling (see next tip) than wide-grain stock. See photo~ at right. Place h o r izon tal boards crown up. If you can't avoid flatsawn (also called plainsawn) lumber, placing the crown up will help shed water c1nd reduce the effects of shelling. Shelling occurs when the bands of earlywood (lighter wood grain) and latewood {darker wood grain) separate. It occurs on the pith s1de of a board rather than the bark (crown) side. See the photo at nght for reference


Sapwood, seen here as the lighter portions of this board, offers the least resis tance to d ecay. It bo rders the d arker heart wood.

Wrut~n by Owen Duvall Project design: Jeff Mer~z lllu~tr.Jiiom Ronn e LeM o i n e


Find more outdoor project plans at: wood 'Mq r r c :>m outdoor

A flat sawn board (top) expands t wice as much across Its width as a quartersawn one, leading to less stability.


Crown (bark side)

Choose tlghterg raln wood (bottom) over wider-grain material fo r maximum stability.


lest-Ever Projects and Sho p Tips 2011

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Weekend Woodworkmg Projects (former sister magazine of WOOD) focused on beautiful projects that could be built with a minimal investment in time, tools, and materials. All projects were built and proven in the WOOD workshop, so you know you can rely on the plans. Back issues of Weekend Woodworking Projects are nearly impossible to find anywhere, but this disc _.r-l\\~ ~ makes all of these projects available to you once again at a SUr-: utloft\ ~ price of only 15 cents per plan!


See more of the projects on this disc and order our own copy at w m zine.c m/W k ndC Or order by phone: 888636-4478


Solid wood and simple moldings make a fitting home for books and collectibles.


lestIYr Projects and Shop Tips 2011

ou'llluw I Ill' I rJthtaonJI \I vllng clllll rto-nurl'll.'nw comtruc:tlon of thl\ proj~t. t. lb lwlp 'IJH:cu the hookt.a'>e through your '>hop, wt.'\'e \mm:eu nMII urdt.r feet. But, ..twulu }'Uu \hllll to turn vour own l~l:t, \\e\e ant.luul:d a Iull'>a/e JMllcrrl un fiiiSt' -17. You c:.lll gaw the huok!>hell ,, touch ot >our own p~r'loaMI '>lyle by \Imply choosing .a dlttcrcnt loot and routing .a dltlcrl:nt prolllt. on the IJnfraam \till:\. (Sec Jlcl,o,:, 47 fur J lew opt ron\.)

'lllpport hull t.enll:r~ whert. dlml:miullt.'(.l, .aml u\lng .a '' brad-poant hit with a depth 'ltop, drill ' "dl'ep hole\. llnl'lh.,anu tht. \Ide!> <lnd t ht. top ,and lxlttom (B). <...1ue .111d t.l.unp toglthlr the \Ilk\ (.\) .and tup and lx>ttom (B), in tlw wnfiguratlon 'lho,-..n on Drawing 2 U\l' 'lhOJHlt.tdl' plywood right angle IHiltl'\ to keep the ''"l:mbly \quare. ('lu obt.tin .a frel' plan for the plp,ood rlght-angll hran:'l, go to ' 1 m/ br .) I hen rein lorn th{' joint\ '' lth \Crt.'W\,


~htw. 11

on Drawings 2 .md 2a .111d

a'l )h0\\11 In Photo A. 1\lflW~ will hold

the l<>Hl't hl'r untiltltt. glm dne\.)

Start with the case

I rom } thlc:k \tot. f.., ~dge join ovt.r \iLe hl.utk' tor thl' \ltlt.., ( '\), top .utd hot torn {ll), c:.ap (C), .and 'lhdH:'I (1)). \<and th~ hl.tnk'> \mouth .111d c:ut tlwm to tht. '>iLl:\ ll'ltt.d on lht. Materials List. With ,, d.tdo hl.ade Ill your t.tblc\,tW, I..Ul ' " r.ahht.l\ tllep in till' enth ot tht. \Ide\ ( \), whl:rl ~huwn on Drawing 1 'I hen cut .a rJhhct dt.t.p .along taL h i mlde k t.dge Now l.t't out Ih{' 'illl'll

Drill angled screw holes lt11" from the ends of the top and bottom (8) Into the sides (A). Then drive the screws.

Overall dimensions: 35W' wide)( 12.." deep)( high For the bot~rd feet of lumber and other tems needed lo build thts proJect, see page 46.


...- -ax 2" FH. wood screw


shank hole, drilled at o angle and countersunk

D siDE (In side face shown)


'" rabbet ' it deep '" rabbet ~deep



'j ,..,. from tmd~


1 .- stopped choJmfers


s "deep


'" rabbet I" deep

118 Oat wcl~her .tl8 x 1-N" panhead ~rew

- a x 1


FH wood screw





'4" Roman




li&~ HLHc trieve the cap (( ). < hud. a ,4 ltomJn ogl'l' hit into }OUr tablemounted muter. I hen rout tht profllt 'thown o n Drawing lb along the enth ultl front tdge. lln l'lh-'l.llld the cJp and glut and clamp it to tlw top (ll), flu'>h with the IMck t'<lgv\ of tht \Ide\ ( \)and centered o;ide-t<Hidc. ltetrlew tht \htlveo, (D) .utd rout a W ltoman ogte profile .1long the top front edE\l''>, whtrl' \how n on Drawing 2 'I hen cut the '>heir rail\ (I ) to \itc KeepIng the eml'l tluo,h, glut Jlld ciJmp tht rail\ to tht \ h t.lw'l, when. \huwn nn

router and rout o ne ed~ow <>I tht hiJnk. Do not dt<~nge the router-tJble setup. U lng yma t t.lhle~a\-\', rip the . "-thld.. cove from th<. edge of 1he blank. \et a'ide t he rc \1 of the blank for parts K and 1.. Check the dht.lntc between the 2V..wide stile-. ( I), Jnu c ut tht cuw to length. lhut flnl\h -'>.l nd the n>v(. .md glue .ntd c lamp It to lht front edge of the bottom (U) with the bottorn edge'> flmh, where o,hown on Drawing 2d. Cut tht h.1d.. ( I ) to \Itt', finlo;h-<~and It, and \l't It a'iidc -

Now make the base

lrom W hlrdl pi) wood, tut the haw paml (J) to 'ii7e. Rl'tricvl' the W-thkk blank le ft fro m making p.~rt II Jnd np two Yl"-wide o,trip'> from it. Miter-c ut one \trip to ltngth for the fro nt (."()Vl' ( k. ) and glue and clamp it to the front of the haw panel Ul, wtu~rl' 'lhown on Drawing 3 . <ut the o ther ~trip In hall lor the \Ide cove\ (I) ,tnd mite r om end of each pl<.ce. Dry fit the 'ilde <OVI.'' .md mnrk thc lcngth'> llmh with the bJck edgc o f tht bJ'>l' pJnel. I hen cut thl' wve\ to ll'ngth .lllu ~luc .md tl.unp the m In place. S.llld the cow., tluo,h with the

Drawing 2c. '\m\ fini'ih-,and the twu c herry 'ihelv(.' ' ( ut the 'ltlk'> ( I ) to \Ill'. ro rout the \topped t h.un fer~. whl'rl' 'lhown on Drawing 2, \l'l' Sho p Tip 33 />elaw. (,1ue and tlamp the 'itlll''l (r) to tht \tdes (A), kw ping thl' mmide cdRc~ flmh . Check tht dhtJIKl' hl'twecn tht \ llll''>, Jnd lU I the rail ((;) to \lte. l'htn glut .tnd c lamp tht r.111 to tlw top ( 1\) Flnl'ih-'iand th1. \tile., and rail lor the cove (H), c ut a r~x2\.: )( i6' blank ami plant it w -r" thkk. ( hut k ' ~ covl' hit Into your 1.1hll mountl'd

6 7

Forming stopped chamfers on your router table Usmg ~topblocks clamped to a standard Then make a mark at the edge of a
router-table fence to rout the stopped chamfers on the stiles (F) would require an auxiliary fen ce almost 8' long. Here's ., way that uses your regular fence and no stopblocks at all With your table-mounted router unplugged, chuck in a 45" chamfer bit and adjust it to rout a V.. chamfer ptece of scrap 1W from the end. Turnmg the b1t by hand, posttion the scrap so the btl touches the end. Mark a start line on the fence to the lefl of the bit, as shown tn Ste p 1. Then repeJl the p rocess to mark a slop line to the right Plug tn the router. With the router running, hold the stile
(F) with one corner on the start line

and angled away from the fence, as shown in Ste p 2 Pivot the stile against the fence and feed it to the left Continue routing the sttle until the trailing end aligns wtth the stop line. Holding the corner against the line, ptvotlhe stile away from the fence, as shown in Ste p 3 Repeat on the other edge and other stile



lid ill

lest-E ver Proj ec ts and Shop Tips 2011

panel. Returning to the prevlou~ routertable setup, rout cove\ alon~ the bottom cnd'i and front edge of the p.1nel/cove a\wmbly U/K/L). C:ut the filler., (M) to <,lie. t.luc and clamp them to the baw-panel ac;scmbly U/K/L), centered sh.Jc-to-~lde with the front ~p.t cer ~ bad. from the fron t edge, whert \hown on Drawing 3a, and the rear 'lpacN flmh at the h.u:l... Cut a vllc2V.)(37" blnnl.. for the front ogee ("') .111d \Ide ogec., (0). Chuck,,

~ , Roman ogl'C bit into your tahh: mounted muter and adju'lt il to cut thl' profile ~hown on Drawing lb. Rout both ed~e~ of the blanl.., and thcn rip one 1"-wide ogee molding from t.tth edge. Next mtter cut one piece to length for thc front ogee .md glue .llld tl.unp It In pi.Ke. Now tut the other pienln half fur the 'I Ide ogcc~ md rn Iter one cnd of e<ICh piece, rn.tklng 'lure you h,t\e mirrorImage part\ l>ry-flt and trim them to length In the <,ame manner a~ for the


.,Ide C0\'1:., (I). (,lue and cl.unp the '!ide In pi.ICI.'. Drill VI' hole~ through the fillers (M ) and b<l\l' pand (j) for mounting the h:et, where \hown on Drawings 3 and 3b (\ee Sources on /hl.'.;t ..J6 lor the turnt'<.l feet.) I hen, for l.tter mounting the baw to the caw, drill \Crew hole'!, counter\unk on the bottom, through the rear filler and ba\t' panel, and form ~,, \lot~ V." long In the front filler .ult.l ba!>e panel, where shown.

~slot ~long

formed lifter assembly


ax 1'4 FH.

routed after assembly

wood screw

s turned foot
II!IFOOT MOUNTING DETAIL (Front section view)

' Roman ogee


For easy flnlshlng. take your legs for a spin

With the drill press running at 450 rpm, sand the feet with a progression of 120, 150-, and 220-grit sandpaper.

Turning the drill-press chuck by hand, apply stain with a brush. Then remove most of the excess stain with a paper towel.

With the d rill press running, use a paper towel to finish wiping the stain. Remove the feet from the chuck and set them aside to dry.

On to the finish
ro <:~tai n the turned feet (we used Za r Modern Walnut), fl r~t wrap the protruding dowel screw with .1 couple of layer<; of masking tape. 1 hen one at a time, chuck them into your drill press ,md follow the steps shown In Shop Tip

34 aiJOve.

Check all the part'i and fln i'i h -~and any areas that need it. Then apply

sta in and let the parts dry for 24 hours. Apply a clear fin ish. (We sprayed on three coat ~ of water-based sat in polyurethane and sanded bet ween coats with 220-grit sa ndpaper.) Na iI the back to the case with # 16x ~ wire nail s. Then lay the ca e, back down, on your workbench and clamp the ba'ic to it, flu sh at the back a nd centered side-to-side. Using the screw holes

and the centers of the s l ot~ in the bao;e as guides, dnll pilot holes in the bottom (B). Fasten tlw base to the case wit h #Sx l Y.l" fl athead wood screw~ at the back and #8x1 ~ pan head screws and #8 fl at

Materials List
IINI\111 0 \1/1

Pa rt

Mall. Qty

A" sides ~ 11:4" a top and bottom Jr." 11"

When screwing the feet into the base, getting a good grip and adequate leverage on them can be difficult. To solve both problems without marring the fmi sh, wrap the feet w1Lh a rag and turn them with a strap wrench, as shown at right. We purchased a plastic-handled two-wrench set at a home center for S10.



1 2~ 1 0~

43" 33Yo" 35W'


2 2

shelves E shelf rails F stiles G rail H" Ne back



l l'l"

%" %"

32h" 43" 29" 29. 43

c c c c

y. 33W

-2 2 -1 1 -

Cutting Diagram

base panel w 12\t" 341<;" BP K front cove c Y.l" w 3SY4' L" side coves Y.l" h" 12 " c 2 2~ M ntters 33W c 2 ~ Jr. N" frontogce 1" 35h" c )!." o sldeogee 1" 2 12'" c 'Parts inlballycut overslzt Set the tnstructlons. Materials key: EC-edge-jolned cherry, C-cheny, CPcherry plywood, BP-birch plywood. Supplies: i8x1%, M8x2flathead wood screws; sx1 Y.. pan head screws; #8 flat washers;* 16><Y" wire nalls; y. shelf supports. Blade and bits: Stacked dado set; 14" brad-point dnll bit; 45 chamfer, ~cave, Yo" Roman ogee router bits.

x 48 x 48" Cherry plywood

Feet. 5' cherry feet With dowel screws. no. A0556 DSS (4). A dams W ood Products. For acurrent price and to order,go to or call423587-2942. Sources for foot styles shown on page 47 Osborne Wood Products. CaiiB00-8498876, orgo to osbornewood com Rockler.<:aiiB00-2794441, or go to Van Dyke's Restorers: Caii800SS8 1234, or go to vandykes com.
t-Evr Project and Shop Tlpa 2011

Plane or resaw to the thickness listed In the Materials List.

1.4 x 71 x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)

M M ,.... x 31/J x 96" Cherry (2.7 bd. ft.}

ill x 24 x 48" Birch plywood


washers at the front, where shown on



1\Jrnlng the feet by hand, screw 4 them Into the base. For help InstallIng the feet, see 35
Shop Tip


4 easy design options

It 's amazing how you can completely alter the appear.mcc of a proJt?ct with out changing dimensions or comtrucllon met hods. We drew up different combinations of stile treatments, routed L'<iges, and foot profile!> for the bookcase, and came up with the new looks \ hown at right. Changing some of the~e features amounb to little more than choosing a different router bit. And with readymade legs, like the ones hown, >Ou have lots of options. The Ideas pictured here how only a few pos~lbl llt les.
Wnllen by Jan Svec Project design: Jeff Mert& Illustrations: Roaanne LeMoine



~ox 21 12" dowel

QuHnAnne Adams ACROS 1 M1ple ACR05 2 Cherry ACR05-3 Red oak ACROS-S Mahogany ACROS-6 Walnut ACR05-10 Paint grade French Rocklc.or 36050 Oak

W' pilot hole 1W' deep

36069 Cheorry

St'e Sourc~ on p.l9l:! 46 for putthaslng InformatiOn.





1 ~" dlam.

2%" dlam.

1Yl" dlam. 1W'dlam.

Tulip Osborne 41 00 Available In Pine Alder Cherry Red birch Red oak Hickory Hard maple Soft maple lyptus Walnut

Sl..kbun Van Dyke's 204125 Cherry Maple Red oak


Clean up the clutter in a garage, entryway, or kid's room with this stacking organizer. You can build all three simple bins in a weekend, thanks to the_ biscuit-and-screw joinery.


Overall dimensions are 31 'Ia" wide x 12)/.4" deep x 36W high. Materials needed: You can build a t rio of b ins from one 4x8 sheet of W-thtck medium-density ftberboard, a half-sheet of W hardboard, and a small piece of poplar, fo r leu t han $35. Need more storage? You can stack up to six bins. When doing this, make sure you secure the unit to the wall studs with an anti-tip safetycable kit (available at your local home center).

Skill Builde r
Learn how to safely and accurately plunge slots tn the edges and faces of parts with your biscuit joiner.

l't" rabbet v. deep, 12 routed after assembly

Note Right end@lsa mirror Image.

Start w ith the MDF parts

Fro m Y." medium-densit y fi berboa rd (MDI), cut th(;! div ider'> (A), end ~ ( l:i), tops/bottom'> (( ), and fro nts (D) to the ' l 'e~ 11\te<.l iMaterlals llst, pa: W S fl . To get all of the parts for the thret bi m from a 4x8 <ih ('(.'l of M DF, \t'e I he Cutting Diagram,
JIO S<' 51.

lO''J" - - -

(Inside face of left end shown)




20 biSCUit S lOts

Miter-gauge ( extension Stopblock


Countersunk shank hole, In two top parts for secunng bins together (Inside face shown) rabbet t;;. deep

--~----~~-----'..------------ r
Angle yo ur miter gauge to align th e blade with the layout lines o n t he dividers (A) and ends (8), and miter-cut t he parts to shape.

(Inside face shown)


Plunge slots centered In th e edges of the dividers (A), tops/bottoms (C ), and fronts (D) at t he marked centerllnes. woodmagazlne.eom

Adj ust the fence height as needed, and plunge t he slot s In the lnsldt facts of th e ends (B) at the marked lines.

Using a spacer at each end of the tops/ bottoms (C) and fronts (0 ), position the biscuit joiner, plunge the slots In the Inside facts.


I ty out t hl' ,, ngl<:'l on tlw front edges of a divrdl'r (i\) .tnd an end (B), where dimensioned !Drawing 11 . ('I he angle\ arc the \a me on both part~, but tht! locatium are <.hffercnt.) \ttach Jn e\tcn slon with .1 ~topbl ud. to your tablcc,.w. mrtN gowge. Angle the g.wgc to a llgn the blade wllh the layout line for the lo11:~ angled c..dgl' on the divider, and pmltlon the \ tophlod. ag.lill'it the dlvidl'r. Miter-cut tht dividers IPhoto A). Wit hout changing the miter-gauge angle, rcpo~ltion the stophlock to align the b l.rdc with the layout II nc for the Jon.~ angled edge on the end ( U) ( ut the ends. U~ing the 'l.lllle procc '),mitercut the \IWrl Jngled edges on the di\ lduc, .1nd l'nd'l You'll nl'ed to mt.ltc..' the mitl'r ~o:auge in the oppo'litl' dln:c.. tlon to makl' thl''ll' cut~. Draw centc..rlines for #20 hl\cuit \ lot\ on parts A through D whtrc.. dirnen'>ioncd !Drawing 1), making \urc that you mark the /mid(' tacec, of the e nd ~ (B) to create ml n m-1 mage p.trl'l. I hen plunge the '>lot\ in the part\ )Photos B, c, and D). Anglc your t.lhlc'IJW hl.ldl iOO from Vl'rtical. With the ;,,itlt f.Kl'\ dov. n , hcwl-rlp tht./mllt edgt'\ or tlw hottorm (() .111d Oil(' tdl-!l' uf th( fron t'> (D) !DrawIngs 1 and ll, m.lkrng surt you do not changl' the.. tlni'>hed width'>. Hout 1 AI" round-oVl'r\ along t he cdgl'' of the divider\ (A), l''"'' (1\), .rntl f runts ( 1)), whc..rc.. c,how n IDrawing 2). Rout .1 '"'' rahhet 1 -~ <.llt:p .1lung the /lm 1.. cdge\ o f 1he top'l/ hottorm (C) 0 11 the imlc/t f.lll''> tu nnl\l' the 1 ., h.~rdho.~rd IMtk\ (1.) [Drawings 1 .rnd 2). You'll rout thl' r.lhbct'i In t lw l'nd'i (ll) ,tltl'r as'iernhllng the him

<%"rabbet ~ det-p, routed after assembly "'"round OVt'rS

~rou nd


- - . 29 w


3o ~vel

~rabbet deep

20 biscuit

Shank hole, countersunk on bottom race

18 x 1~ F H. wood scrt'w


~ ~

round ovc:>rs

dlam screw buml)t'r (bottom btn only)

5 6

'it't url' the him togc..thcr when \t,lc kt.d, rnt~rk ccntlrpol nt' fur mountIng hole\ on t h<.' 111\idt f.Jnc, of two tnpo, (( ), whcrt uirnl'll\IOilC..<d )Drawing 11. Drill the countcr\unk o,hank holt\.


Assemble the bins

(,Juc, hl\t.ult, and ciJrnp tngl'thlr thc.. dt\ idl'r\ ( \) and top/hottorn (( ) for t.'.l<. h hi n [Drawing l , Photo E) llwn glue and hi'><trit the front (D) to each hln (Photo Fj. Now add till' ends (B) !Photo Gj.

lJsing your rabbeting hit, rou t ,, 1..-il" r.1hiX.'I 1 ,,. deep along 1ht imitlt lmck l'Uges of the ends (U), a\ l'xplalncd in Shop Tip 36, IIL'\1 past, to wmplete 1he opening'> fur the b.rt:k\ (I ). t\ov. \qu.~rc.. the cornt.r., with,, chiwl. Me;mrrc till' <>t~t li ng'> for the b.lck'> (1:). nl(.'fl ( lll thl'lll to \ill', .rnd \l'l a\ldl' <ut t hl' dl'at'l (I ) to \II<.' !\ott th.ll th<' 29'1111." long cll'<ll\ Ml' '!11, '>hortl'r than the bottom\ (<) to provide clearann for till' dc,rt'i to tit lwtw<'en t h e.. tnd'i (U) whc..n o,tacking t ill' blm. i{out

Using 20 biscuits, glue and clamp the dividers (A) and top/bottom (C) of each bin together Check the assembly for square.

Glue and biscuit the front (D) to the dividers (A) and bottom (C) of each bin. Draw the beveled front/bottom joint tightly with tape.

Position each bin with the back down. Then glue, biscuit, and clamp the ends (B) to the top/bottom (C) and front (D).
leat-Ever Projec:ta ond Shop Tlpa 2011


'AI" round-over' ,t lnng the bottom edge<~ 1 Drawlng 2l of the clea t ~. Then drill three counter\unk shank hole\ through each cle<tt on the bottom lace, where dimcn'lioned . .Sand the, to 150 grit. Now
g lut and \crew a pair of tlcato; to the bottom of each bi n, aligning the cleat'> with the front and bttck edges 1 Drawlngs 2 ,md 31 Jnd centering them end to end.

How to safely rout along a narrow edge

Here's a simple way to support your router when machining along the edge of a part, such as for rabbeting the ends (B) after assembly to receive the backs (E). Clamp a 1W-wide scrap (a 2x2 works great) of the needed length to the parl, flush with the edge, as shown. The scrap provades sufficient bearing surface, so you can keep the router stable and make a straight cut.

Time to finish up
.Snnd any arca!l of the him that need It to ISO grit. Remove the dust. Prime and IMint the bin\ a color of } ou r <.hoke, or apply a cle<H prote<. tive finish. (We appli<.d lkhr Premium Plu\ I naml'l Underwater Primer & ~ea ler, followed by two w.lls of Kitchen & BJth Interior Lu!llrc l'nnmt.l,

color: Cht.\tnut \lJIIIon.) 1\ttach the'l (I) to th<. him u.,ing #18x l" wirt. n,tlh 1Drawing 21. lhen drill pi lot hole'> ,tnd mount t he 7A!"-d iameter 'it.rt.w bumper' to the <.:leat'l (I) of on<. bi n onl y for the bottom !Drawings 2

the top (C) witlumt mounting ho l e~ is on top. From in'>ide the bottom two bins, drive #8 >< I \4" screws through tht. mounting IH>Ic~ In the top., Into the cleat\ ( i) o f the bins ahow. Now \tnrt flllln' the bins.
Written by Owen Duvall with Ch uck Hedlund PrOJN:I design Jeff Me rtz lllu\trdtiom Roxanne Le Moine; lo rn a Johnson



tl lld

31. Hnally 'ltad. tlw him in the de.,arcd location, lo.eeplng tiH: haclo.'l flu'lh Jnd m,t!-ing \urt. tlhlt tlw bin th,tl ha~

,.. rabbet

CuHing Diagram

routed after assembly

'4 deep,


'4'' diam screw bumper (bottom bin only)

~ x 48 x 96'

Medium-density fiberbOilrd

Materials List (3 bins)

I INI\Itlll \Ill




M.11l. Qty
H p

A dividers

B ends

Find more storage and shelving plans at: woodmagazlnt com/storage


tops/bottoms fronts

E backs F cleats

,, ,.. ,..




4"" 101 1

-6 6 l
3 6



29' ....

x 48 x 48' Hardboard

[ID :
1,4 x 3'h x 96" Poplnr

Materials key: MOF mechumdens1ty Oberboard, H hardboard, P-poplar Supplies: 20 biKults. Sxl' 4 " flath ad wood screws. 118x1" wire nails, f\"diamell'f screw bumpers 14), antlllp kl safety cable (when stacking more than three b1ns). Bits:'-" and 1\' roundover and rabbellng router bits

woodmagazlne.c: om


Riftsawn grain and ebonized square "pegs" for your favorite Sx10" photo


h,ll appear to he fu"y mortl\e .111d-tt:non joint-. pinmd wllh pvramld-\haped 'lqu.ue peg) .trl' .ac.tu.tll) l'3\}'to-bulld ll.llf-lup-, adormd with dl'corative \hop-math. huttum. Don't \\Orr> about \ear<.'hlng l or l''Jll'll\IH \tratght-gralncd lumber tithcr \~l'll \how you huw to uhtaln this \tod, from ordinary fir boanh, and how to .u:c.l'lltlt with cbonl1cd buttom >ou t ,, n ma kt. you r~el f.

Make a frame and buttons

1rom \1," \toe 1-., c ut the \tiles (A) to the sl1c ll'ltcd on the Materials List. (We mcd rlft\awn l>magla\ far. lo obtain rlft\awn c;tod., \CC Shop Tip 38 on page 54. With a ~ d,ado hladl' in your table aw, <.:ut t ~ d,aduc'l deep, where hO\\ n on Drawing 1

you'll n>td a h1gh-quality stacked dodo set to cut smooth-bottomed dadoes to ensure tight glue lines. To prt!vent ch1p-out, back the curs wtth on extensiOn attached to your tablesow miter gouge. Flnl'lh and the stilt.)
1 or the ra1ls (B), ,, ~)(2)(2-1 piece of stock to Iii' thltk, Jnd cut the pam to length. Adjuc;t the d.ado blade In your tablcsaw t<> cut ~ deep,


37 Cut cleon lop joints. Becoust the lap joints are expost'd at th> frame sides,

tEvr Pro)ec:ta and Shop Tlpa 2011

I!J RAIL DETAIL (Viewed from front)

To hang the frame on a wall, simply omit the stand-up leg and add a sawtooth hanger.


Turnbuttons, ll fl ush hardboard back, and a wood leg give the back a finished look.

h" hole .,. d~p. dnlled from front face after assembly and squared with a chisel
"'~" chamfer

7'-11 x 9W single-strength glus

Top (horizontal orientation) Location of (honzontal orientation) Corner squared With a chisel after ilSSt'mbly


hole deep

EXPLODED VIEW Mewed from back)

..~hank hole, countersunkon Inside face

.tnd cut tiHl'l''>i<kd tt..non\ on the r.tll end'l, \\here \ hown on Drawing la. I hen l lnhh-santl thc r.1ih. hud. ,, dl.lmfcr hit In )'Our tahlc rnountt:tl router, and pmit ion tlw ft:rKc flu'>h With the bit pilot hearing. I hen rout >'In' chc1mter\ c1long the front emh and euge\ of the \tilt:''> (i\), whert: \hown on Drawing 1, amltlll' t mnt edgt:'\ of the rail\ (1\), where <,hnwn on Drawing la '=ow ~lue and clamp tht: frame. With till' glut: dry, t: htu. k .t h" rab betmg hit In your t.lhll' nwuntt:d routt:r, ami rout a "dt:'l(l 1.1hhct along tht: framt:lmld<. rear cd~l'' \\ht:re c;hown on Drawing 1. I hen \C{ll.trl' tht: rahhetl'd turners\\ lth a t:IHwl. <..huck ,, W hlJO-polnt h1t 111 your drill prt:''' illld drill 'yl," dt:t:p holl''> at

Location of (vertical orientation)


c.Jch curncr, nntcred on lmtll the fr.Hl1l' 'It llls (A) and r<ll b ( ll), \\ ht:re c;hown on Drawing 1. \quare the hole\ With a v.. c hl~el to fit the o,quarc 'IIMnk~ of the but .1nd adhere It to tht.. hl,111k with 'lpray ,ldhe\lvt... B,lnd'law .md \MHI tht ltg to ton~ (C) you will cut In another 'ltep. ut thl' hack([)) to \Ill' from W tt:m- shapt:. 'ow <~dht:rc tht: h.g to the bad: C D) pcred hMdboard C lwck the fit In with doublt:-face<.l tnpt:, wlwrc dinwnthe fr;une r.thhcted opening. You nMv 'lioned on Drawing 1. U'ling the ' ha\'e to joint une end ,llld cd~e for a \Illig hole~ in the bllt:k '" guldt..\, drill pilot fit. I ht:n drill two countt..'r'lunk siMnk holc'i In the leg and drlw thc 'l<:rCw\. ror tlw huttom (\.),cut two Y.xY.>xH" hole\ for .1ttachlng the kg (h), wlwre '>hown on Drawing 1. (Omit the ~hank blank\. (We U'iCd w.1lnut ) l'ilt your hole~ for a h.lllging fmme.l tablesaw hl,tdc 20 from H.rtkal. Att.tch C.ut the lc~ blank (l) to SllC. (Omit an cxtemaon to the mltt:r gauge to h.ll k the kg tor a hanging fr.11ne .) M.tke a the cut\, and clamp a \topblotk to till' photocopy of the Leg Pattern on past' 51 extension to position th<. blank\. Tlwn



/Jotll ~:nd'> of l'.tch hlanl- to fo rm pyramld'l, "' 'lhown In Step 1, ri,~:llt. Nuw <;wltc:h tc> .1 d .ulo hladl nnd cut W'-wid: dackx.''l, \<\hen. dunl'O'itomd o n Drawing 1b, .111<.1 a'> \ hown In Step 2. '\<.xt ~:honi7C the end\, J \ \hown In Ste p 3. hnally cut th: butto m from the hlanl-.'1, J\ \he>\\ n In Step 4 . I et them dr)' for 2 4 hours


Now finish and assemble

l a

lmpc<:t the lrallll' .md flnl'lh \and an) Jr(.'J\ that tW<.'d It f'hln \tJlH~Cil' drop of glul' In t hl 'lqu.trl' hnk\ .1r1d ~luc the hutton'l (C) In . !\ppl)' a fini~oh to .111 thl' part s. (Wl wlpl'<l o n thrl'l' coat' of Mlnwa\ Antique Oil I inl\h.) I<> .wold d.amagl' tc> your pho to, do nut flnl\h thllmldc face o t t h l' hac!.. (I>). l>rlll pilot hole' for l.t 'ltcnin~ the t umhuttom, wlwrl' '>llOwn on DrawIng 1, ,t nd -.crl'W lhl'lll Ill plan. l'or a hanglll~ fralll l', f,l\ll'll ,,.,,,wtooth hanger tu thl' tup rail ,, pi~:u of \i nglt 'itrtngth gl<t'l'i lUI to 'lilt' I htn pi.Kl' thc tramc facedown, .md Ia)' In the gl.t'i\ and photo. Add the hac!.., .llld wc.:ure tt \\lth the turnbuttum.

Using a stopblock to keep the facets even and rotating the button (C) blank between cuts, form shallow pyramids on both ends.

Position the stopblock to align the button (C) blank with a W dado blade. Make ~" deep cuts In all four faces at both ends of the blank.

Wntttn by Jn Svec wolh Kevin Boyle Prooecl dl'\ gn Je ff M ert z lllu\ltolloOn\ Roxanne Le Moine; Lorna Johnson

With the buttons (C) formed but still attached to the blank. ebonize them with a black permanent felt tip marker.

Finally, with buttons (C) formed and ebonized at both ends of the blank, separate them with a fine tooth handsaw.

~.. 8' ralls 2" 11 W ,. c buttons w ~ a 0 back E l~biJnk 'Parts oMially cut overSize. Set tht lll)liUCUons

Riftsawn vs. flatsawn

Selecting the straight, even figure o f riftsawn grain for nt~rrow pMts, such as the stiles .:md rails of cab1net doors and p1cture frame s, greatly enh.lnces the overall appearance of a proJeCt Any pile of flatsawn boards contains many that exhibit ample riftsawn grclin along one or both edge!>. For the best appeclrance, select boards with closely spaced .mnutll growth nngs The photos at fight show an ordinary fl.ttsawn Douglas fir l x4


Materials key: F-Dovgl,u f1r, W walnut. H tt."'mperfd

hardboard. Supplies: Black pennantnt felt lop mar~Pr, SPfilY adhesive, double faced tape. lxJl braSi Oathead wood ~r~. 6l<1' futhetld wood ~crews, turnbuttons single wength glas$. ~tooth hanqer lopuonal)
Blade and

bits: Stackeddtldo~t. ~4 rabbeta!ld

brad pomt bet.

ch3mf~ router blh,

. . ..... .. . ..

:'' '




--------------; - - ---:



------- --


BestEv r Projec ts and Shop n p s 2011

The Largest Selection Of Clock: Movements Dials Hand s Kits Plans I Iardware & Much More!

Call Today or Visit


your Order!
Mention Offer, 6A449 Expires, Feb. 28, 2011

Classic 19th-century styling combined with an Inexpensive piece of 21st-century

technology-a radio-controlled clock synchronized to an atomic clock-gives

this masterpiece timeless goocllooka and Impeccable



F.H. wood screw


'11" round over





paper clock face shank hole, countersunk on back face, with a mating -t.. pilot hole Yo" deep
11 . .

D LEFTSIDE (Inside face sh own)

No round over along back edge



sing cla s~ic dado-and-rabbet joinery for the clock case and frame-andpanel comtrucllon for the door, you eu lly can bui ld thi\ beautiful limepiece in a weekend or a fl.'w cvl.'nlngs. Whether you make it from walnut with a book-matt:hed ~patted -map le panel (lrft) or c hcrry (inwt photo), you' ll fl nd t he clock kit, llc;ted In Sources, a true corwcnlcnce. 'I he kit Include!. a clock movement and f;Ke, all of the nl.'cdcd hardware, and a matching ~"-diameter wood knob.

W rabbet 14" deep 12'1J"

loatlon of


Let's start with the case l'rom y, \lock planed to W thick, cut
the <~ ides (A) and four \helves (B) to t he si7C!) listed In the Materials List. On the Imide face of the \Ide\ (A), l<~y out 1he local! one; for four W dadoes and a W' rabbet along t he back edge, where dlmcmloncd 0 11 Drawing 1, noting that the pt~rl~ arc marror lnt.age~. Using <t W dado blade In yuur t.thh.,aw and an auxilia ry ex tension on your miter gauge to prevent chip-out, cut the 11.!"-deep dadoes. Then, u\lng an au\ ll lnry fence attached to your rip fcnn, ual the W-decp rabbets.

1 2

Front edge Glue and clamp the sides (A) and shelves (B) together. Verify square by ch ecking for equal diagonal measurements.

Uc;lng the c;ame tablesm" \el up, cut W rabbets v, deep on t he ends of the ~helvc!l ( B), where ~how n on Drawing 2, tu fit the datloe~ In 1he :.Ide') (A). c;and the side' and ~helve\ with 220grl t sandpaper. I hen as~ernbl e the

Gt'>e, a\ shown In Photo A, moklng '> llrt. the rabbets on the top and two m itldlc shelve!~ face up and on the bollom :.hl!if face down. from Y." stock planed to \A." thick, cut t he clock-face mounting bloc l..'i


IJ oOOR (Insid e face show n)

lh 7 )( 7" glass

1 4-v. grooves


Yl' deep routed

after assembly Wood knob




#18 X Ill" wire brad


2" no-mortise hinge

routed after assembly

At'' deep

v.. hole



Magnetic catch


v.. pilot hole


-t ht h.t<:kcr and


v. groove deep

(C) to <,lte lo fit hetwcc:n the top and uppcr mlddll <,hdvt'' (B), whcrc: '>hown on Drawlng 2. Glue ami c1.1mp th<.> hlocl\'> to the 'i<.ll''> (A). 1 rom y, '>toclo.. plantd to W' thick, cut the top <~nd bottom (I>) to '>itc. U\l' a V>" round-over bit In your tal>lc:mountcd router ami a pu'lhblotlo.. for .,,,fety and chip-out avoidance to rout the crHh and then the I ront edgt of the p.trh, whe tl' '>hown on Drawing 2. \)t~nd tIll' top .111d bottom \ttH>ot h. llwn glul' and damp them to the caw, flu\h <lt the bacJ.. and centered 'II de- to<. ide. 1rom !II" walnut plywood, cut the IMl 1-.. (b) to to fit t ht rabbeted openin~o~ In the bact... of the ca'>t'. \lfart... ,, c-entt'IJJ<>int tor a I" linger hole In the b.ICI-.., \\here dlmcmloncd on Drawing 2. l'>lllH a t For\tncr bit In you r drill pre"

pmttion t ht p.1pcr elm 1-..

II!JoOORKNOB LOCATION (Outside f ace shown)

face on it, align in~ the center hok'l.

Now craft a beautiful door

the mal...tng tc)t tenon).

lrom W' '>tc>ek, c-ut the \tile'> l bottom and r.111 '>it.e) I'>



ralb (II), nntcr (I) to I ted. ~hiVC you r tutoff) lor



,11\d t1 to prcnnttcar-uut, drill till' hull'. Now ~and thl' hat 1-.., <tnd wt it .1\idc. i\l'>o from Vt" walnut plywood, tut <1 n . 7" piln for tht t;lod;-fan (I). I hen draw diagnn,ll' on om fan: to find th<. center. Drill a v., holt through the center to ree<~ln~ the clod. mowm<.nt '>h.'lll \pply <ipray adhe'>IVl' to


<.'l'ntcrc<.l along the Imide edge of the \tile:\ (G) and t<>p/huttom r.lil~ (II), and nlong hot h edge:' of 1he nntcr ra II (I), whetc o;hown on Drawlngs3 and la. ro form 1ft" lenom" Ion~ on I he rail'>, wlwr<. c;hown on Drawing la, lower t ht dado hlade to v." ' nd po'>it Ion your rip fen<.e '""from the c>ut<.idc of the blade. (We mt~dc te)t tenum on ou r <:utolf\ and vcrihed their fit In the groove\ In the \tile\ bclon. cutting Lhe tcnom on the raib.) I hen <:utthc tcnom, .J) ">hown 111 Photo B. lh!'I.IW ' ~ 4x i2" pil'll' of <,pa lled maple 01 other figured wood to makl' '-' hook-mattlll'd panel (J). (Or, you c.111 llli.l kc a 'iOI id p<mel by pl.1n i ng <,tocJ.. to VI" thlct... and cutti ng it to the fini'>hcd 'iiZC of 7x71 Y'.) Fdgc-glue t ht pie<.'l''>

t:lt your tabll''law with a Y1 dado blade. rhen cut a }i!"-dccp grouve


.,."deep for wood knob

togt'ther, aligning the grain a'> clo~cl>


you can. After the wuodwmkcr\ glue

clrle'>, plam the panel to 1A" thick to flt the: groove'\ in the \lllco; ((,) and railo; (I I, 1). Cut the J"Mfl<.'l to thl' fini'ihC'd 'lite.

Then sand the


'>tnc>oth to 220 grit.

1o pmition thl' center rail (I) in th<: door, mark nnterlinc'i on mt~<>king
Best-Ever Projects and Shop Tips 2011

tap~ on th~ !1111\lt/t' fal~ ol th~ r.til at th~ l'lllh t\ho, fl'll'rring to Drawing 3b, m.trl.. .tll~ nmtnt II Ill'\ un t hl' mtl\iclc f.H:c ul thl' \Ill~' < <> ~w,.: from tlw top l'ntl\. l>ry"'"'''mhk thl' \tile\, r.tll\ (II, 1), and Jl.lnd UJ, .11l~nlng lhL' m.trl..\ on the CL'Il IL'r rail .1ml \till' Verify till' part\ fit tog~th~r correl tly. 'I hl' n glm .tnd cl.unp t h~ door, a\ 'lhown in Photo C. \lt~r l hl' giuL' dric\, \and thl' door Hout a ' r.tbhct ~ dt-cp .~round till' top opl'ning or th~ dour un the unult lor the gla'' Jnd gl,t\'1 \top\ < "->. wh~r~ \hown on Drawing3. ( I h i\ remo\e\ th~ lmld~ lip'> olthc 1~ ~ "g r ome~ In tlw dour.) lo avoid <:hlp-out, rout th~ OJXn lng In two Jl.l">L''> SquML' thL' <:orm:r.. with,, chl\l'l lo mount a ~di<lllll'l\'r lih,li-Lr wood k noh on tlw door, whl'rl' \hown <Hl Drawing 3, m.1rl.. .1 nntLrpolnt lor a ~ 'holt on the mtt\hlc l.l<.l' of the left 'IItle (t,), \\ hlrc dimcmloru:d on Drawing 3b. U~ing .1 n' I or'>tner bit, drill .1 ~dL'-'Jl hull. ~.rnd thL' !.nob. I hen ~luc it in plal'c. iu lmt.tll J magm:tlll.tiLh Jllll'>trii..L tor till' duor, whcr~ 'lhown on Drawing 2, marl. ,, nntuJXlint for thL'<..ttch on thL lmitiC' of thl' IL'ft \Ill~ (t, ), whl'rL' dillll'n \Inned on Drawing 3. U\\' ,, Y1,, hit to drill a "I" ck<.p hok In the \till' llwn prL'\'> in tlw c.llth. 1\ll'\1, rnilfl.. a Cl n ll'fJX>int for tlw .tril.c on th~ trnnll'<.lf.tL' of Ihl' ll'ft Ctl\l' 'lidL' (t\), WhL'rl.' eli mL'Il\iUnl'li on Drawing 4. U\ill}l ,, 1~ I 01\llll'r bit, drill il Yl."dl'cp hnll'. Now drill a vrr." pilot hoi~ 1 dL'l:J> <:cniUl'd m tl1l hole. \~tthc \trikl' pl.1t1. .Jnd .ttla<. hing \Ul'\\ ll\i<.ll' 1o mak<. till' gl,,,, \lop' (1\), whlrc \ hown on Drawing 3, pl.uu. or rl \tlW .1

pil'le of 1 I 11" \l(><:l. to ' thick. 1hl'n rout Jnd rip tour '>l<>p'> from thi' hlanlo. ,,, l'\plainl'd in til\' flr<,l of lhL' thr<.'l' Shop Tips on fJcl,'\1' 60. You'll mill'H ut 1he '>101" tu lc:n~th to lrl thl' door op<.ning later.

5 6

Time to finish up
Hnhh'l.tnd <lily atCtl'l that n~cd It, .llld remove 1he du\1. Apply t iHL'l' <:O.ll'l of a lll'.tr llnt'lh tu thl' door, b.tck (I ), and till <.J\c, l'X<:l'J>I fur the front t.ttc or thl' dock-lace mounting blo<.k'> (( ). (We ll\l'd Ddt ,tl'rmnl ~Jtin ( ll'.tr Wood l'lnhh, \llltdlng to .i20 grit hl' I Wl'l'll ((MI\,) I la\l' ~ giJ\\ (UI to 7 7". ( lt:\111 ,tnd pi.U:l' it in 1h~ rahlx tul door orxn I "1-l lhLn mltu-<.ut t h( tour gl.l\'1 'I top' (K) to ll'ngth to fit the oplning. Attach till' \lOJl'i to tlw door with #IKxW' \\lrL hrad\ wlwrc \hem n on Drawing 3 ,111d '"' \'\plamld in Shop Tips 40 Jlld 41 . Set thL hrad\, and till thl' hole'> w1th .lmJtclung \\ oud putty. Drill pilot hulL\, and \Ul'W a (>.lir of 2" no mor ll w hI llHL' on IhL imide of lhl' tloor, \\ hlfl' chrm~micmtd on Drawing 3 'fo .ltt.tdt thL tloor to tlw <..1\e, pl.l<.l' thl' c,l\l' f,nup on }Our worl..b<.rKh. Apply I wo l,lYl'r\ (for hl''l .tdhl'\IOn) of douhleI<KI.'d liliX' to thL <..I'll.' 'iidc of tlw 'mail htngl' h.a\l'\ l'mitlun the door on lhL' ca\l' fhl'lh with the 'lidl' (t\) and l~ll IUL'd IXt\\el' ll the lop ,uul lX)IIOm (1>). l'rc\\ firmly on the c.luor tu .tdhcrc lhL' t.tped h ln}l<.' ll'.IVl''> to the l.tSl'. I h~n c.trl' lull} open t hl' duor, drill pilot hole\, .llld f.l'ltl'll lhl' hlllgl'.,, ,,., \hown In Photo D 'ow n: lllO\ \' t lw door .md t.tpc, .llld r~.mount thl' door.

Mountth\'lllttgnctil' 'tril-l In it'l hole in thl' \idl.' ( \) mmg tlw 'upplil'd \Crl'\'\ \1\-ilh thl dol' I- r.lCL'liP on your wml.. bcnl h, appl}' glut to t hL' <. lock-fan mounting hlocl.' (C). l lwn pmition thl' clock fan in thl <.a'IL' Pl.lll' ,, two-pound ohjcct on tlw, ccnh:ring 11 to cwnly dhtribut<.tlw \Wrghl whill' thl' glue dril'~.

.s.. :r:. w




hole "' deep w1th a ,,. pilot hole deep Cl'ntert!d Inside, for magnetic strike and screw


j, j
;:;-. ~ --

3 4

.. .



1 01

What makes the radio controlled clock tick?

Powered by c1 1.5 volt AA srLe battery, th( r.1d1o controlled clock contaim cl ~pecra l AM r<'cc1vcr tuned to r<'Ct'ive a lim<' ~1gnal Th1 s signal, transm1lled lrom radio statton WWVB netlr rort Coll1ns, Colorcldo, by the NJtional lnstttutc of Standard~ ,md Technology, is synchroniLCd to th<' world's mosl accurate timepi<'CC a cestum fountain atomic clock. Th1s dock m.tintains the country'~ offic~t~l ltme with an ama11ng accuracy of one second rn 40 mtlllon years. After lnit1al setup to your local ltme zone, the rece1ver automatically searches datly for the broddcJ~l and ccllrbrdtes rtself as needed to mamlain the precise lime

Marks aligned t(_ spacer


Using an auxiliary extension on your miter gauge for backup and your rip fence as a stop, form 'Ill" long tenons on the ralls (H, 1).

Glue and clamp the door together, checking for square. Place scrap lt" spacers under the door to center the clamping pressure.


SHOPTIPS 39, 40 & 41

How to easily make and install small quarter-round glass stops
e Cut n arrow stock . For safely when
making narrow glass stops, such as the \lh"-widc stops (K) for the Shaker-clock door, prepare an oversize blank planed to the thickness of the parts. Using your table-mounted router and a round-over bit (W for the clock glass stops), rout both long edges of the blank. Position your tablesaw fence to rip a stop of the needed width (W for the clock) from the blank. To produce identicalwidth stops, position a stopblock against the blank, and clamp or screw the stopblock to your miter gauge. Rip a stop from the blank. Then turn the blank end for end with the cut edge against the fence. Slide the fence and blank over so that the blank touches the stopblock. Rip another stop.

Prevent splits. To prevent splitting the stops when attachmg them with brads, predrill angled pilot holes In the stops using a brad with Its head snipped off. To chuck the brad into your drill,

use a brad that is W' longer than the ones you'll drive into the stops. e Protect glass. When drilling and driving the brads, place a piece of \Ill'' hardboard or cardboard on the glass.

Using a self-centering bit, drill pilot holes through tho smallleavos of tho hlngos In the sides (A). Then drive the screws.

Cutting Diagram

% x 4 12" Spalted maple (.3 bd. ft.)

.:J x

Position the back (E) in place with the finger hole at the top. Drill mounting hole~ th rough the bad. and In the ca\e, where dimensioned on Drawing 2. Remove the bad.. As directed in the Instruction<, upplled with the clock and usIng the i ncluded ha rdware, mount the movement ant! hand ~, Insta ll <l n AA'ilze battery and activate the clod., find the location where It wi ll receive the stronge'>t signal (ideally facing the general direction of Colorado), and allow It to 'lynchronire to the broudca'>t time ignal. Avoid loct~tlng the clod. with i n3' of electronic appliances, fluorc cent light s, power l ines, and metal siding that can Interfere wi th ~lg n .tl reception. Note..> that electronic " pollution" In urban area<> during the day C<ln .1ffect o,ignal reception. Reception generally io, better at night and in cloudy wc..>ather. Hnal ly, ~crew the back (L) In pl.1cc. 1\ow when \omeone a.,k.,, "Doec; anyone know the time?" you ca n look at your rna<>ter timepiece .~nd amwcrwith confidence-" It\ prtd.\1!1) ...."

Materials List


~ ~


17" 8111"

Mall. Qly


sides shelves


w w w w



clockface W mounting blocks top and bottom ~ 14" back clock-face backer 14


2 2


1111" 1111" 1111" 7"


no. u.
71t" 7111' 7 h"

-2 2

G stiles
center rail


top/bottom ralls .."

w w w

book-matched panelt glass stops

w 7111" ~ ~ 'Pans Initially cut oversize. See the Instructions. tAs an optJon. you can make asolid walnut panel for J.


Materials key: W-walnut. WP walnut plywood, SM ~~palted maple. Supplies: Spray adhesive. ~7x7" glan, wood puny (color to match stock), cloth-backed double-faced t.lpe. AA stze b.1ttcry, -18x 1' were brads. 4x flathead wood screws (5), and 14xt'l' flathead wood screws (10) Blade and bit: Oado-bl.lde set,; 'and ~ round-ovel' and ' 'rabbeting rooter bits; ~'.1'1", and 1 Forstner bts; \1' brad point bit Clock kits. Ktts Include a magnetic catch with strike plate, matching diameter Shaker wood knob, 2* no-moruse h1nges (1 pr.), rad10 controlled clock movement. and 7'flx7 'paper clock face. Order k1t no SK-WAL (Includes a walnut knob) or kit no. SK-CH (In eludes cherry knob), S26.9S plus freight Order kt no SKW-Q (Includes a walnut knob) or k1t no. SKCHQ (Includesacherry knobl with quartz clock movement and hardwarl.' listed above: S12.95 plus freght. Schlabaugh and Sons Woody,orklng, 720 14th Street. Kalona, lA 52247. Call BOO 346-9663,


"Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed In the Materials List.

Wntten by Owe n Ou vll with Chuck Hedlund Profect de~lgn : Dvld Denby, Versailles. KY, with Kevin Boyle lllu~trallom : Roann e LeMoine; Buck Jo nes


BesiEver Projects and Shop Tips 2011


Junior operating engineers will en]Jy doing the heavy lifting with this fully operational c onstruction toy.


efore )our favorlu. young\ll'r gch bogged dov.n in video ~ottllll'l, give,, gift that let\ one\ lnl.tgirMtlun tlo the ll ft ing-thi\ 'iturdy wuudcn cr.ull'

Make the chassis


u\ed m.tple.) Cut one m.t<ot 'li<.ll' and om 'IMler from e.Kh bl.anl... <hul k a I" I or\tncr bit In }Our drill pre''' ,and drill fan hole\ an the ma\t \kll'' !Drawing 2, Photo B J. ,l'i'icmhlc thl' nlta\t, cut two caul\ from \cr,lp. (We uwd Ml>l.) <over u ne ~tde oll:.llh caul \\It h ma\l..lng t.lpe to kl'ep glue rrom \til J..inj.t. \pply tape to on<. \ltll' of l'.lt h m,l\t ( 1\) to marl.. th<. ma\t ~ 1xu.e r (( ) I< K.atium !Drawing 21 . ( I he of thl' t.liX.' provide\ jmt l'nough of a lip to k<.'l'J> the ~pater~ from '>hifting and nltlJ..e' It l'.l\Y to rcmovl' l''\Ce~o, glul'.) (.Juc ,1nd d,unr the nw~t !Photos C.1nd Dl.

onl.' edge, and 'll'l it a-.ldc rm t hl' c.ah and c.:ount<.nwlght. Cut then n~ttlnln~ot ptl'll' to \II<.' for the c h,lS\I\ !Materials List, {lll,lit flSJ . l.a} out till' dl.t<o<ol<o (A) front and rl'ar IX.'VCIS !Drawing 1J, ,and h,llld\,aW ,IJld !kind them to \hapc. lhl'll rhud. an .. brad-point bit Into your drill pre,.,, IX>'>Illutl thl' fence 1 /t" from thl' bit u:ntl'r, .111<.1 drill axle holc<o In hoth \ldt<o of the clhl...,i'> !Photo AI. Flnl<;h-sand th( part.

1-or the cha<osl'i ( \), .tnd counh.'rTo 2 wcight 1 cut a l hc6 'tx l2" hl,llll.. uwd walnut.) a ldl.' fro m
( II),



I ' '\\


Build the mast and boom

ma\t \Ide\ cut two 1for the
(ll) ,llld

llhl\t '> IM<.:er\ 1>1,1111..\. (\V<.'


Overall dimensions 25" high x13W reach x 7~ track xll ~ wheelbase. Handoperated h01sts ratse and lower the boom and bucket. The tower assembly pivots ~moothly on a bclllbeanng lazy Susan to easily pick up and place loads A wide-track chassis featunng e1ght sets of dual wheels provides sure-footed mob1llty. You provtde the flat stock and a few wood screws We provide a one-stop source for the remaining hardware and special fttttngs.

Skill Builde r
Discover how to hold rounded items steady for drilling on your drill press.


\.l.trk t hL' ~. honm-pavot hnh. nntLr on une m ,l\l side (R) (Drawing 2). 1htn dlu<.Lt br.H.J-poinl hit In yuurdrlll prl''' .t nd imert a \'"-thick '>Cr<lp blod. lll't WL'L'n the m.l'lt si de~ to prev~:nt chipout. Dlill till' hole. 1ormthe ma\t (B/C) l<lp hevci (Drawlng 2, Photo E), and \,tnd it '>lllnoth. \and roundO\'Crs on the top corner-; nf thL ma\l '>tlll'!> (B) and uppt>r lll.l\t 'IJMCer (( }. (.huck a cham fer bll In your t.thiL-mountLd routu, .md rout v.. ch.un fl'r.. .tlon~ the cd~t''> nlllll.' I" hole\ amlthl' out\idc edgcs of t hL m,l\1,1.'\<.'eJH lor th1. hottum. I ini'ih-\and thl' ma'it 1mm ,, Ytx I ~x22" plcn of \lock, re,,w. and plane u /'-thick blank lor thl' ftont 'Jltlll.' l (D) a nd rl'nr 'IJ>aLL'r ( l.). (WL uwd walnut.) ( ut thL p.trt\ to ILngth ll.lntl\,lw .l nd ~.tnd tlw dl,llnflr on tht front 'P<Kl'r and t hL tilpl'r on tlw '>PKL'r (Drawing 3) 1rom ,, 'x l )1x22' ptt<.:l' ol \lock, rl'\,aW J lid pl,llle t hl' I WO )X)OIIl \Ide\ (F). (\\1. ll\l'd nltlple.J (, Jut .llld <.1.1111p till' IX)<llll 'PIl<.'f\ (D, I) hL'tWl'l'n thl' honm \kit\ IDrawing 4 ilnd Photo Fl With thL' ~luc dry, uw you r dril l ptl'\\ to drill a Yv" holl' through thc '>JMLI.'r (l > for t he hoom opLr.ttlng ''ring, ,, \ , hole fot t hL' boom pi\ ot, ,md ,1110t htr v , hole ,at t ht I runt tnd of tht hnnm (Drawing4 j Whtn drilling thl' front hole, 111\t'rt a ~~th ack ptL'(l' ot \trap b1.twc~:n t ht bcxlm \tdl'' (I) tu pn.\'1.'1\l Lhtp-out. 'I hl.'n m.~rk the.. 1\\0 t.lf>L' rtd <.llh, .a nd l>.~ml\,tw .ami ,,, nd tlwm to \lhlpe. <\and ~~ r.1dll 0 11 till' hoom <.mh. 1\ow rout y,,, <. h,amiN<o alon~-t till' cd~otl.''i. Hnish-\,tnd till' hoom .

Rout chamfc..r\ em tile..' tdgl'\ (Drawing 1J, and fini'ih-.,.and it. Now gluc and clamp the counttrW<.Ight to thl' boom (D/l./Jo), !A" from t he ~:nd .u1d <.cntered.

Fabricate the hoist

lrom '1.>"-t hIL k \toe k, <: ut the hoi 'It <;ide' (I) to \ill'. /\d htrc them face-tofa<.:e with douhllf<Kl.'d lilpe. Marl-. hnll.' tenter\ !Drawing Sal, a nd drill the hole\ on }OUr drill pre\\ with a {brad-poi n t hit lay out tht .111gled wrnl.'r Bamh.lw and o;and It tu .,h.tpc... \,tnd rouml-owr., on tht at hot h end\ nr tht .mgll.'. \eparatc and flni\h'kllltl thl.' p.trt\ Cull he hul\t IM\e (j) to 'lite, making o,ure the width tquah the combined width of the m.l'lt ( B/C) and thl' hol~t !>Ide\ ( 1). l~ou t ,, c..lhtlllflr along till' top front Cdlo{C..' IDrawing Sl Dri ll \hank holl'\ lor fa\tcnlng tht hni'>t lM\t' to the m.l'it \Jdt:\ ll\). (I'm the #8 'ucw\, dnll "" \hank hole\ Jlld r, .. pilot holes.} ('l,unp thL' lumt \ldc'l (I) to till' hul\t hll\l' (.J) IDrawing Sj. On II \<:fl'\\ hole\,

(A). Clamp the chassis to

Lay out the axle hole centers on the chassis the drill press fen ce at each location, and drill 1Yl"-deep holes.

.md drive the !>crew\. ( lor 116 \Ul'W\, drlll .,t,,, \hank holt\,tnd ~..pilot hole\.) C l.unp t ht ma~t (1\/( ) lwt wc..'l'n tlw hoi\t \ldl'\. I hen u\ing thl.' .,crew holl' in till' ll<ll\1 b.t\l il'l gutde'>, drtll pilut hull'\ In IhL IUJ\1 \lUi:\ {B), ,Hid drtw I hl' \lfl'W\ On your drtll pre'' drill y,.," hnk'> 1h rough thl ma\t (Photo HI

Add cab and counterweight

Rllril'H' till' w,llnut c.1h ((, ) .tnd wuntlnwight (II) hl.lnlo. M.ark the holt ntller one (.nd (Drawing l a l. < hulk ,, I" lc>r\tnl'r hat into }OUr drill pre.." .and drill tht holl I hu1<.l\.m. and ,,111d the " anglcd cornLr. < rm\lut the.. <..lh I rom l hL hl.lll k. I\ ow rout Vu, <. h,11n ll'" ,tlong t hi.' l'dgL'\ of t hl' hoi<. .llld 1 ch,lllll<.'r\ ,tiOnR I ht Olll\ldl' l.'dgl'\ ot tlw l lni'lh-\and lhL c..ilh. lo po,ltiun the (( ,) on tIll' nl.l\1 Ill/C), II r\t imut till' hcx>m hl.'l Wl.'l'll till.' m.l'lt \Ideo; (B), and \lldl' ,a plc..'ll.' of #IO-,i2 tlm,tlkd md thrnu~o:h tlw holt'' in hnth ,1\,c..mhlil'' I ht"n glu<. .llld cl.unp the.. l,lh to tlw m,l\t \idL'\ (B) (Drawing 1 .and Photo Gl Rlmuve thl.' IX)(llll Irum I hl 111.1'11 lrotu tlw rl.'m ,llnln~ w.tlnul hl.lllk, uat tlw <.mtnterwtlght (I I) to \IlL'

Join the two mast sides (8) with double-faced tape, mark the t " hole centers, and drill through both parts.

Apply glue and position the mast spacers (C) on one mast side (8). Apply glue and add the second mast side.

Clamp the parts between the cauls, and then clamp vertically. Keep the mast sides (8) and lower mast spacer (C) flush at the bottom.

With the glue dry, remove the clamps and cauls, mark the bevel at the top of the mast, and bandsaw It to shape.
l est-Ever Projects a nd Shop Tlp a 2011


As with the mast, cut "x~x24" cauls, applying masking tape, to align the space rs (0 , E) be tween the boom sides (F) for gluing.

Sparingly a pply glue to the cab (G), position It against the boom (0 / E/ F), Cfnte red on the mast (B/C), a nd cla mp the ca b In place.

Using the holes In the holst side (I) as guides, drill Ill" holes for the threaded rod through the mast (8/C) with a brad-point bit.

"1 0 32 cap nut



M10 32capnut

Snap hook



v v

chamfer$ routed .1fter a )l.'mbly 22"


11032 cap nut

~'~" chamfers

r10 32 threaded rod 3 " long

.6 )( ~ _./ p.lnhead screw

18 x 2" F.H. wood mew - ' l l


~. holes

3" lazy centered



after assembly

1' hole, centered chamfer

2 )( 1'!1 tandem whet-1


How to safely hold rounded objects for drilling
Enlarging the screw holes In the wood knobs for the hoist assembly presents two challenges: holding a part with a domed surface steady on the drill-press table, and keeping it from spinning as the drill bit bites into the surface. Here's an easy way to /.t" hole W deep In overcome both. Drill a 1 a piece of W-thick scrap. Place a 1Yzx1 W' piece of double-faced tape over the hole, as shown at near fight. Center the knob over the hole, and press down firmly. Now support the scrap with the drill-press fence, centering the bit on the knob screw hole, and drill, as shown at for right. Thts method also works for drilling into wood balls.

With llw ma\t/ hoi'lt .l'i'lembly upside down, po~ition the la7y Su'i<ln on the hoist base U> cquidhtant from the front and ~ide edge~. Drill pilot hole'>, and drlw the \crews !Drawing 11. Then pmlllon the ma~t/hoi'lt a'i'ILmbly on the chassi'l (A), and m.trk the lat.y Sma n screw-hole location\ !Photo 1 1 . Now remove the mast/ hoi'>t 3'>'><.' mhly, and drill the holes. C ut 1wo 4"-long piece\ of Y 1 " dowel, and g lue ,, 'lpool onto eac h piece, nntered on the length IDrawlngSI. With the glue dry, drill a YP" hole, centcr<:d, through each '-POOl .tnd dowel. 1 n1Mge the ">Crl..'\\ hole~ In four 114"-diam<.tcr wood knt>h<i to !It",

<.Jrllling them W' de<.p. l'o hold the knoh'l on the drill pr<''>'l, sec Shop Tip 42 alxnt.

Apply finish and assemble

lkmove the lazy Susan, ma!)t (B/C), .and hoht \ides (I) from the hoist l>a~e Fxamine all pMts and ,, .,.,embli e~. and finish-sand where needed . Slide the wh<.els and bucket onto,, 14" dowel, and 'lupport it at the ench with 2x4 ">Crap~. To he>l<.l the axle~ .111d keep lini~h off the c mh for gluing, drllll'lght ~ hole\ into .t2><4 'l<:rapand in\NI thl'axlc'l. Drlll\ix 14" hoh..''l at lcf1<~t 2" ,apart in another -;crar block. lmert '>hort piece~ of W dowel into lour of the hole!), and pre~~ a knob on the end of each onc. Wrap m.a~klng

l U>.


Center the lazy Susan on the chassis (A), rotate the mast/ holst assembly to uncover the mounting holes, and mark the locations.

16'<11" - - - - - - - - --j Y(J


l J


- - - - - - Trim after assembly.

Parts tnmmed after assembly


Beat-Ever Projects and Shop Tips 2011

tape around one end of each 'ipool dowel, and ln~crtthc other end Into one of the remaining holc'i. Apply ,, clear finish to .111 the parte. and assemblies. (We applied four coat~ of aero~ol ~atln lacquer, c,,mdlng bN ween coat\ with 320-grlt \andpaptr. To smooth the wheeh between coat'i, uo;e a soft brass wire brush.) Slide a wheel and washer onto each axle. Glue the axles In the cha~sls (A) holes, lmertlng buslnt.:'IS cards bNween the whet.:lc, Jnd wac,hcr~ to emure free spinning. Screw one holc,t side (I) to the holst ba~c U> [Drawing 5). Slip a washer, c,pring, .10d another w,tsher onto each spool dowel, and inc,ert the dowels mto t he holo,t-'ilde holes. Slip another washer, ~prlng, and washl'r over each dowel, and fasten the second hoic,t s1de In place, captunng the spool dowels within the holst-o,ldl' hole~. Add a washer to each dowel protruding from the holc,t c,ldec;, and glue the knobs on the dowel\. Scrcw the ma~t (8/(.) to the holst bac,c. Cut two i "long pieces of #10-32 threaded rod( ~ lo nger than the total thickness of the assembl}'), and \lldc them through the hol'lt \ldcs (I) and ma'lt [Drawing 5) \ppl} medium ~Lrcngth thread locker to the rod ends, and thrc,td o n cap nut'i Screw the lazy Suc;an to the holc,t l>.t\e J) ,md then to the cha'ic,lc, (A). Cut one 2h"-lonl( .md one 11 -tong pll'Cl' of thrc,llk'd rod . ~lldc lht boom ( D/1/l II I) 1>1..'1 \Hen tIll' Ill 1\t \ldl'\ (B). Slade tin ton~ rod through the p!\Ot holt.:\ [Drawing 1I \ppl} tiHeJd locker and ''P nul\. ~lidl' tIll' \hurt rod 1hrough the hull.'\ .11 the I runt l'nd ol 1ht boom, ,111d .1pplv thread locklr and <ap nut\. ut ,, 24'-lons.: ptctc c>l \trins.t ,llld tic n knot In Ol1l' end 'I hrlad II from thl' top thruus.:h thc hull' In thl rear 'Jllecr (l.), through thc holc in


1.,."woodknob ,....... ~. hole~ deep



x .78' compression spnng


1~ x 11 spool \;,."washer
1 '

dov.el 4"1ong
~~X .78' compression spnng

Shank hole counteuunk on bottom tact


I r6x I-. F.H wood,crew

r10.32 cap nut

1\4" ~ood knob


Cutting Diagram

the rear \J)t>OI, .tnd then tic It off. Wind thl' l''<Cl'\\ <:ord unto tht 'lpool by turning the knoh\ Cut a n-tong paen ol :>Iring, thread 1t through thc hnllln the front 'pool, .llld tic it off 1 hl'll rcmtt till' cord through tht <,pacc hltwecn the front '>pacer ( l>) .111d rear 'Pter (l ), over t he top of tht upper llhl\t '> (( ), and httwt'l'n tht. front 'IJMnr and thl' front thrcadcd rod. I il the \nap hook unto thc end ol the \trin~o;, ,ami wind the l''Cl\S onto the '>pool c lip the hm kct ball onto tht hook, 'llip on your hard hat, and \t.ut up }'Our tngh1.'\ .md volll lrnagi rltttlnn

A '

l W 4W
~ l h "
, ~-



c o



I I"



I!\" 22W

G" cab H" counterweight

lh" lW



, ~-

4 ~

holst sides


t;; 31t


w w w w

Wntttn by Jan Svec Projtct dt'\CJn Je ff Mert& lllu\tr.ttlon Roxanne LeMoine; lorna Johnlon

Materials key: W walnut M m.lple Supplies: Bx2" and 6x11<l flathead wood scr~w~ loxh panhc:.ld scr~~WS. double faced tape Bits: 45"chamf rrouterbit;~..\d 1Y.I:"brad point drill bots.l" Fo"tn~ bh


~x 3\'Jx 60' Mclple (1.7 bd ft.l "Plane or re w to the thlcknes~es listed In the Materials List.

Find more toy plans in this series at toyplnns

Hardware kit: Each kit ind~~ the foiJooMng pam tcV'odem wheels 181 tandem v.heeladcs (8), flat wo1\htt11 18), 'I y Sus.~n. HH2x 12.threc'lded rod. 1032 cap nuts (8 sn.1p hook, wood bucket, IY4 b1rch knob~ (41, lYel< Yt spools (2), Y.)(9Y;" wood dowel, y. flt V.Mhers (12), Ye X.78" CompressiOn sp11ngs {4), black nylon stnnq 114ft.) Order k1t no 3122, S24.99, plus lh pplng M 1\ I Hardware Special ues, 800 441 9870, mt'ist>




One design done three ways makes this trio of tables a perfect match.

.lkc any or all o l t hl''>l' t,tbll'> to trc~all' .1 \l'l that '>lilt\ you r lll'l'(l\. You'll find the going CJ\) hccauc;c for mmt of the part., In thew proJCt t '1, only the len~th changes from table to table, hut the o;tcp-hy-mp pron.,.. rcmalm the .,,unc. Wh.11e' cr grouping you piJn to hulkl, \liVl' time hy millin~ .111 part\ whitt you hove a machlnr <><.'t up lor example, although the legs on the \ul,l tnhlc <Hllongcr than thmr on t h1. wlkt tnhlc, prtpJrc the blanl\\ for tach \Ct of lcgo., and then cut all the t.lpu., while yuu'w gut the tablc'>aw set up lll..cwlw, yuu t.Hl hcvcl the top edging piln' for ~l'Vl'r,llt,thle\ nt the tahlc\,lw, then mcw1. thow plccl.!) to the router t.tblc to rout llw tdg<. profile\. 'I hi\ \ave'> tim<. .111d <rt.atc\ Identical picccc; for <.>wry t.thk'.


Materials: ~ poplar boards, W birch plywood We also used a pocket hole jig. (About S40, see So urces, page 70.)

Note 1/ }'Ott 11111/..c )YJ/11 ta/1/c'.\ (111111 pine or oak, }'011'11 f1ml r,aclr-mcttfC' cow muldius for p111 1\ K ,me/ I 111 a lunm u ntcr

Get a leg up
Cut lour ll'g'> (A) to thl' '>ill h'>tcd In the M aterials List on pa:.;t 70, 71, or 72 for the t.thkN you're building. If you can't find \olkl '> loci.. I w thicl.., glue up two layer~ of h" 'lt<H. !... c hoo~c piece'> with col01 .trl<l grain liMt blend to~cthcr well at th<. julntllnl'.

Now ''Y out t 11<. tnpl'r\ un t'ilt h llg Drawing l a, 3a, or 4al. I .thtlthl' be'it t wu a<.lj.~eent face~ of ea1. h leg '" tilt. Oil I fJu.'' lay out a 'i" "\' <.cllll'rld on the bottom end of each leg !Drawing lbl '-l'<l, marl.; linc'l on the ouhuh fa<.l'~ (tht. one'> you m.tri..l'<l l'arllu) of e.~eh ILg I , fmm the tup to lndtt.lll' tlw top' of thl' lung t.lpcr'>. Mark Lht. top'> of thl' '>hUll t.tper') on the two l/1\ldt' tan'' Note t 11.11 the 'ihort tap<.t' ilrl' the ,,trlll' llt~gt h on t h1. <.nd t.thle <H1d \Of,t tahll IDrawings




l eal EYer Projec t& and Shop Tlpa 2011

lEI END TABLE LEG DETAIL (Left rear leg shown,

right rear Is a mirror Image)



Cut both short tapers on each leg. If needed, reposition the guide to cut the short tapers on the legs for other tables In the set.


IJ.1LEG BOTTOM VIEW (all tables)




-1'IJ" pocket screw ...

As with the short tapers, align the layout marks for the long tapers along th e edge of the Jig and reposition the guide assembly.


1a and 4al hut .lfl' \hurtl.'r un t hi.' coffl.'l.' tahll !Drawing 3aJ. ut the'll:d ll'~\ with a hJild\,IW or uw ,, Jllol to <. ut t h<. t.apl'r' with ,, tahll'\.IW (You<..lll downlo.ld mar fn.<.jig pl.ln til I .1nd \\,ItCh il lrl.'<.' 'idlo on cutting leR'I taper' \\ lth a jig ) \llgn thl: m<~rk'l fur t he top .md hnttum uf tht. \hort t<~per ,11011~ thl' edge uf the jig Scrl\\ down the guidl, \uure the II.'~, .1nd t.ut thl' fmt tall\: I IPhoto AI


Long taper
stops here.

Insert. A

43 Sofer cuts with zerocleoronce

z~ro cl~olonce

Insert pr~v~nts the cutofffrom lodging betwe~n th~ blod~ and ln s~rt plate. We've removed the blade gua1d to a flow you to see the operation. Us yours.


not.lll' the llg a qu<Hil'r tu rn to urt thl' uthl'r \hort t.tpl'r !Photo A I

sx 1" r.H. wood screw



Long taper :::::::.. on oul\lde races


To secure the leg when cutting the second long taper, use a spacer to fill the gap between the hold-down and the tapered leg. While the jig I~ \ct up, cut thl' ~hort taper~ on the rem.1lnlng leg\. Note: I he co/fte tab{( lm. \ ,\hot t<r tapct'l tlta11 t/11! otltu two tu/J/e\. If rou'r,lmiltiiiiS a com/Jitlatioll of tablt\, mlju\1 tilt' It:-.: em tilt' tapu 11.-.: a~ mt,ltcl lirm:rcw the guide from the jig .md rcpmlllon a kg on It to cut a long taper As before, placl' the guide agalmt the l<.g, and \Crew It In plate (Photo Bj ( ut tlw lir'lt long t.tper; thl'll pl.tCe a ~crapwood ~pacN undN the hold-down when cutting the final taper [Photo Cl Rcpt!at thl' prolC\\ to cut the long taper!. on the nm<unlng leg\. Uw '' 'kllldlng blod. to \and the leg\ up to 220 grit.

m Clamp the upper and lower end ralls

(8, C) lightly between two legs (A) while positioning the ralls. Spacers under the ralls establish the Inset. Tighten the clamps, and then flip the assembly over and drive 1Yl" pocket screws through each ralllnto the legs.

Time to establish a base

lit the upper end rail\ tower end rail\((.), \hell 'IUpport cleat\ (D), .111d upp<.r front and bad, r,1ll\ (I) to \1/e. Drill om pocl..!.!l hole In l.'.l<:h end of the lower end rail\ and t wo pod;ct hole\ In each end of till' upper r.tlh (Drawings 2 and la). l<.arn ahout pock<.t holl' joiner)' In Shop Tip 44, IIC'I(f pa,-.:t.



Retrieve two leg\ (A), an upp1.r end rail (B), and a lowl'r end r,tll (C). Place the legs on a flat 'lurface with the long tapers facing up and to the uut,lde. Clamp the upper end rail nu\h with thi. top ends of the legs .md the lo\\W <.nd rail 6W from the bottom of the il'Hs [Drawings la, 4a; Photo Dj. On the wffe1. table, th1\ mea'lurcmcnt I\ 4 1" !Drawing 3aj. lllp the end J\\cmbl) <AlB/() over and dri'e the pocket 'iCri.W\ (Photo E l Repeat thl<o a'l~emhl> ope ration for thl' o ther end. (Jiue .tnd damp the '>hl'if\Upport cleats (I)) to the lnlilde face'l of the lower end rail\ (t) (Photo Fj. Stand the side J\\Cmblll'\ (A/B/() on their top\ and po<,ltlon th1. uppcr front/ back rails (I) bctwl'cn them. U-.c light clamp pre\)Ure to hold thl' ,1\\l'lll hly together [PhotoG[. After pmltlonlng the upper rail\, tlght<.n th1. clamp\ to hold everything In place <llld drive (lA" pocket ~crews. To detl'rmlmthl' length of till.' \lwlf (I), mea\urc the tll'>tancc between

the lower end ra lis (C). To Cl nd t h1. 11l1l'l r~ width, add W to the length of tht cle.u (DJ. ( ut the shelf to the~e <.llmenslom. ut two piece\ of \helf edging((,) ~" thick, I h" wide, and the 'lame length a\ the )hclt (F). Glue and clamp tlw edgIng to the shelf with the top edge'> and en<h flu~h . After the gluc h.t~ c un.d, \and the ac;~cmbly to 220 gnt C..enwr the shell a\'lembl) (If(,) hltween thc kgs and clamp It In place (Photo H) Drill ~ , shank hole~ through the shelf-support cleats (D) .u1d U..' pilot holes ~" tllep In thl 'lhl'lf. IIH.n apply glue to the cleat\ and \crew tlw \hell to them.


Top It off
ut the top (II) to match the out\ide dlmemtom of the table. llwn WI It a\lde for now. I' rom Y.x t '" 'Ito< 1.., cut t h1. front /hncl.. edging (I) Lind end edging U> about !" longer than <.llmemlorll'd In the Materials List. Mal..c an extra ph.'ll' to help 'let up the table~aw nnd router tahli.' In the next couple of '\tcp'o.


Position the shelf support cleats (0) Yo'' from the bottom of the lower end ralls (C) and centered on the length of the ralls.

Position the upper front/back ralls (E) flu sh with the top edge of the ~Ide assembly and W from the Inside corner of the leg (A).

Clamp the shelf assembly (FIG) to the cleats (0) while drilling the shank and pilot holes and driving the screws.
lest EYer Projects and Shop Tips 2011


~.-round -over with ~shoulder



Two cuts for clean rabbets
To cut rabbets on the tablesaw, make two cuts. For the pieces (1, J), set the blade W above the table and position the rip fence s;., from the blade. Cut a groove the length of each edging piece, keeping the piece tight to the np fence, top photo. Then raise the blade he1ght to 1 11," and reset the fence to make a perpendicular, Intersecting cut to remove the waste, bottom photo. The waste fall s safely to the outside of the blade.
Pocket hole In p;lrt

18x l"F.H.




l'ilt the tablcsaw bladt: to $0 from verttcal I ht:n 'let tlu. rip fence v, from the bl.tdt:. RIp a bt:vd on cac h hmgth ol lrunt/ bacl- cdglnH (I) and end edging U> IDrawing 2]. Next, mount a Y" mund-ovt>r hit In tht mull'r t.tble. Rout the rou nd-over with a o;houldcr !Drawing 2] on eat:h pict:c ol edging.


rill your table aw hladt back to wrtical, .md complete the edging b)' t:utllng a rahl>l't to <H:t:t:pt the top (II) !Shop Tip 45 <H rlslltJ. M1ter-t:ut the edglnJ.\ (I, J) to lit around the lop (I I). (;lut up lht! four plct:l!\ of l'dgl ng 1<> form .1 fr.unc IPhoto 1 1 . V\ hilc the frame dries, flni-.IHand tlw top to 220 grit. Sand tlw l'dglng a~\t:'m bly (1 /J) to 220 grit. !hen uw a -.amllng blot:k on tht bt:,el and the top and bottom face\ to maintain t lw t:rl\p cdgc'l ol the profllt'\. fo glut: tht: top (II) to tht frame, apply a \mall bead of glue along the imide cu1mr of thl! rablwt. I hen clamp thl' frame ilnd p.lllellOHt'thl'r. Allow tht glue to cure. 1\ow glue th1. top a~cmbly (11/ 1 /J) to tht base. I he edge-. of tht

Quick, strong joints come right out of the pocket

Fast, easy, and strong: That describes pocket-hole joinery. Using th1s method, you don't have to wait for glue to dry, so you can keep working on parts as soon as they're joined Making a pocket hole requires a special jig and drill bt to form a p1lot hole with a deep, flat bottomed counterbore, top drowmg For pieces that fit together flush, a clamp holds the pteces while you drive a pocket-hole screw into the pilot hole, bottom drawing. To inset one piece from another, use a spacer as shown in Photo o, opposrte page. The broad, flat unders1de of the screwhead, shown for fight, presses against the bottom of the hole, pulling the two p1eces together. Choose fine-thread screws for use In hardwoods, c1nd coarse-thread screws when joining softwoods Apply glue to the mating surfaces tf you want But when one of those surfaces is end grain, as when joining the rails of the tables to the legs, the glue adds little addltlondl strength.
woodmogolln .com




chuck~!<! Into drill

Squar dnv~ bit

Cotrs thread


pm.trlly hl'low the c..dgl ng (1, J) [Drawing 21 Nl'\l, mlll'r .111 cntl mvc.. (1.) to lenJ.~ th
\U It fit'i .tgain'it tlw lront cow ,uul thl' oppmite '>hmt point l111e\ up exac tly

with the o ut"dc lOrncr ot .1 rc.u ic..'g. Rq>eut thi~ pmcc'>'> for the other end ww (l ); tlll'n mill'r thl.' hac!. row (k.) to fit hltwcen the two l.'lld t:OVl''>. Once all th~o CO\C'i arl' cut to kngth, glul' them In[PhotoJ[. I inisiHand thl t.thlc to 220 grit, and .tpply ,, flnbh. (WI.' li'>Cd Old Ma')ll'r\ Dark Mahog.tny, .tnd then hru'>lil'd on t \\O <.:O.Jt \ of \lim,.t' \,ttl n pol\. urt. thanl', huffing with a lOO-gnt 'iilndlng 'pongl' bet Wel'tl ((),It\,)

Apply gl ue to each mitered end, then assemble the edging Into a frame. A b and clamp Is Ideal for drawing th e corners closed.

Miter-cut the cove molding (K, L) to length, testing the f it of all four pieces around the table before gluing It In place.

plywood panel 'hould Ill' llu \h with t he c>uht<.k f.Jtl:'> of the ll:lo:'> Ml'il'>llfl' hl'lw.:cn till' out'itdl' l'dgco; of the leg' at the front and \Ide of the ltbk l'rep.~rc two 1 :O itC4" hl.tni-'> I" longlr liMn l'<tth of the meJ'IURilll..'nh. Rout ,, ~ cOVl' .llong e,t<. h long etlHe of

l'tdt hl.lll k. Ta 1\c. 1hl' hla n "' to t hl' tahll

W111ttn by Craig Ru egtegger w1th Kevin 8oyle PrOJf'<t dt\IC)n Jeff Mertz lllu\tratlon\: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Joh nton

.,,1\v .ultl rip .1\\\1\

"wtdl pinc'i for t he.

front/b,ttl. COVl'

(1\) illld end lOVe


~o the. two '>hurt point-. mJtth up \.\,tct l> with the nut\idt corncr'> of the.. front kg'>.< lamp the t'OVl' in pl.llC..' tl'lll

Mill.r-t.ut the I runt cove(!<) to leng th

Materials List (end table)

IINI\111 ll \Ill


M.1tl Qty

A legs




B upper end ralls

lower end ra~s 0 cleats upper front/ E b.KkraUs


~ ~

1 ~







shelf top front/bdc.k

G shelf edging

J' m~ ~ 14Y +." 1llt" 13W





p p
p p

edging J" <'nded<Jing



2 2

K" front/back COlle

l" end cove


23. 17" 21'

w w w


P,ms cut long nlually. then mitered to fit.

Materials key: P poplar. BP birch plywood. Supplies: Bl(l fl;nhead wood sc:r~ I,z pocket holt \Crews. Bits: ~ round~r. cove router bn.s.

Pocket-hole Jig: Kreg R3, S3999 (Item 22708) from Rodder Woodworking and Hdware,,800 279 ~I R3jtgai\Oavt~~l,ble for $39.99 (Item 147643) from Woodcraft Supply,; 800225 1153.

End Table Cutting Diagram

l"lan or re$4w to the thl l..neh listed In the Matenals list.


leat-lver PToJKta ond Shop npa 2011

Materials List (coffee table)

~ 1/1

Pa rt

W 1.

Mtl Qty
p p p p p

upper end rcl4s lower e-nd rcltls






16" 13"

2 2

cleats UPPf'r front/





F wtt


13W 42W IJ\" 42YJ"

~ ~



top front/b.lck edgng



p p

2 2


rabbNs 1\1. de-ep L"


t J(o




"Part~ cut long lnlttally,thf'n mttered to Itt


(l eft rear leg shown, right rear is a mirror image)



' (1

-::xI " F.H. )

wood screw Long tel per on outside faces

- ~-

Coffee Table CuHing Diagram



" x 48 x 41l B.lltlc borch P'/WOO I d


Materials List (sofa table)

IINI\ttl 0 \Ill


1 ~"

A I~ B upp('r end rails

W 1h "

31" 7" 7'




p p p


lowt'r tnd rtllb wlfwpport 0 clellts upperfronV E back ralls


!4" !4"




F shelf
~helf tdglng


4W 42Yl"
45" 48" 13" 10' 1 ..







,_. n
w w

K froot/btlck cove

end cove


p p

2 2



Parts cut longlnlually, then m1t~td to lit.



Mltertd ends

a lsOFATABLE LEG DETAIL (l eft rear leg shown, right rear Is a mirror Image)


Outside face Location of

8x1'fH wood screw ......1

Sofa Table Cutting Diagram


long taper on outside faces



@ F
Y!IC 241C 48' Baltic b~rch plywood



lettl ver Projec ts and Shop Tips 2011


More than one way to hold a wine bottle

Full ~ize


Hole centerline

hi\ (Ahapcd wllll'b<>ttlc holdlr apJX'ar\ to dd) J.travlty, but rc\1 ,1\\Urcd thJt thl' photu 11/l()w dldrn Involve an) trld.\ or digitalnltllllpul.ltton lk'gln with a blod. ol wood d illll'll\loncd "' \hown In t he drawln~ aim'<' t/,~111. (You m ay ncld to lu mlnatc t hln' ncr \tod. and wt and plane the lamltltltlon to \ltc.) I hen dr.1w ,, rccrcnc.:c llnl JlrO\\ the block wlll'rc \hown. With \prt~y adhc)tve ( ~M nt.~ke\ ,, popular artl\t\ .ldht\ivc \old ,,t ofltce-\uppl) and Jrt \tore\), adhere the Jlllltcrn tu the bltxk. Be ~urc to ,IIIJ.tll the hole n:ntell ine on the block with that on the p.1ttern. Now drill the ll'tllcred I "11' hole. Bamhaw thl' lw ldcr to sht~pc, workln~ot ju\t out\lde the 1M tern\ cut line "Jcxt, ,,,nd the holder to the line. 1\ dl\c \antler wurJ,., hc'>t lm ~andln~ the ouhlde or wnvex \urf.~ee; an O\clll,ltlng \ptndlc ~andcr lor the imtde or conct~w ~urfate. I inl\h\and the holder through 220 grit, .llld <lppl) finl\h. (We med Mlnw,l\ \ntl4ue 011 )


Find more plans for gifts and decorative accessories at Side view


With elegance befitting its shimmering contents, this spacious case will become a treasured dressing-table accessory.

Overall dimensions: 10Yz" wide )( 8 . deep " 17!1- tall. Materials needed: ~ walnut; Y.." birch plywood. Hook~ provtde for hanging necklaces and bracelets Ring bar and two velvet-lined drawers hold c1 variety of jewelry.


l est-Eve r PToj ec ts a nd Shop Tlp a 2011


he lmet door p.mel, Ideal fur ~how lng off \tunnln).l gr.aln patll'rm or rotor'>, off<.' I"\ you .m opport unIt> to ).liw thic; jewl'lry cabinet t hat '>pcd.ll luol.. vou're afh:r. \nd there's a bonu'i. ')lmpll joinery thruughout mal\c\ buald ill).\ It l',aW

;4 groove ' deep

V4 from back cdg~


~~lfadhesve velv4t

Start by building an open-and-shut case

lo n1.1tch thl' ).lr.tln from the <.\aw \ldl'\ (A) to 1hl' door \ides (( ), .111d from the caw top ,and bottom (8) to the door top and bottum ( Dl, rap the nl.lting pltn:'> from t hl' ,,une hlanl... \t.~r t h> IHlp.aring two .~ K 16" hl ,a nk~o, .md two ~1 K H1 t" bl,anl\'1. IHp the C3\l' o,ldL''I from the two long hl.ltll..\ and the c.l\l' top .t nd bottom I rom the \hort <>Ill'\ !Materials list, f"'.li' lCJ; Drawing 11 I rom t hl' ollnat\, cut t hc door '>ide\, bot tum, ,and top to \ill (Drawing 3 ). MMI.. thl' nhatching C.l'll' .and door '>ide'l, lOp, ,and bottom to nMint,aln t-~raln continuit > \L'I up your t;ahll',,aw with a lh" d.ado hladL, and cut d.adul''> .md mhhet\ wiH.'Il' 'lhnwn In thl 'lkil'' (\)..and dour \ldl'\ C() !Drawings 2, 31. < hJngc to ,1 d.ado \ll .Jnd 1.u1 thl' groove' in thl'l,l\l' \ldl''> (I\), caw top ,utd hottom (H), door o,lde'l (( ), .utd dour top .ami hottum (ll) !Drawlngs 2, 31 . On thl' ll'ft 'lidl' 1\) .uut ll'ft dour \ith. (C), Ill) out nMtching murli\l\ to fit the hlnJ.:l'\ !Drawings 1, 2, 31 Ihnat the murli c'l, or lllt t hull '\-\it h .a ll.lnd \,aw .and ,a ch iwl. Rout a \topp<.d W\l' tor a rillHl'r rcn'\'i 011 t hl' right-door 'iidl' (( ) IDrawing 31. C utthe o,hdn' (I), (\I'll' b.ack (I ),,and door'l (<~) to \IIC (Wl bnok nt.~tdll'd \(Hl)l' fiHurLd \valnut tor mar p.anl'l. ll:<trll mmc .about hook-matdting In Shop Tip 46, "'\I /IIIIi' ) To Ul.lll' tll1 l'XjlO\l'd 'ihadow lllll' on the dtx>r, rout .1 'A" mhhct 1A" dl'l'P around the front f,an nl the door p.anciiDrawlng 31. <,1uc and d,amp thl \idl\ (,\), top ..and hot tom IIH, \helns (I ), and h.ll'k (1) IDrawing 1, Photo A I. Clwck lhl' tl\\l'lllhly for 'lt(UMl'. i\ppl)' glue to the ,,,bhct\ on thl' dour 'ikk\ (( l .1nd to thl' middll' .\" only ,IIOIIJ.t thl' top ,tnd bottom of the dunr panel (t,). 'I hen ,1\\emhll' and d.amp the p.mel dum \ldl'~md dour butlum (I)) IDrawing 3 Photo AI Flnl\h\,tnd thl' <:<1\l' .llld door, U\lllJ.t progrl'\\IVCiy fimr Hflt' lrnm 120 to i20.

___,end only

Chamftr outside

EJ stDE PART VIEW (Left 1nslde face)

I rmortse1 1-W."deepon left ~de only


- --l



1';" mortl~e ""deep on left stde only

Check th e door for square as you clamp it . Lay It face up on a flat surface t o ensure th at the Inside edges remain flat.


Book-match 'em, Dan no
m1rror 1mage grain patterns w1th book matching. The process involves resawing a board, lay1ng th~ piece~ open like the pages of a book, th n edgejoining th~ two halves to create a panel with a symmetrical pattern, for right . When selecting matefiJI for .J book-matched p.mel, look for distinctive grain that wll mak~ an intere~tmg pattern. Also, the blc1nk must be mort> th.m twice as thick as the glued-up pt~nel, to .JIIow for the sJw kerf and plilning of th~ completed panel. !oint the edge that will be the jo1nt hne; then resaw the blank down the center, near r1ght Clue the two hillves together w1th the sawn faces up, tlligning the gr.lln patterns at the JOint hne, for right . After the glue dnes, plane the panel to thickness, and trim 1t to f1n1shed s1ze 1f n cded, keeping the joint hn centered on the panel's width.
Cr~ate d1stinct1v~

Mark a line down the center of one edge. Cut carefully to minimize cle~nup of the sawn faces th1t could change the pattern m1tch.

Open the resawn blank like a book. Align the grain pattern 1cross the joint line, and glue the two halves together.


W rab~t



7' "x



,... lltlllet, centered

' notch " deep

6 x y, brass FH. wood Krew


brass hing

Make the ring thing next

(uta ~x.U~x 7W blank lur t he rlrtl( holder top (If) and fron t U>.




brass bar

x ~ x7

SHOPn 4JRout one wide piece to mob norrow portJ. Starring with o blank 3W wldt
allows softr routing for ports H and J. (The JW width assumes o b" lt.trl.lfyour tabltsow blade cuts o different-width lt.trf, adjust tht width of tht bionic occordingly.} To mokt tht ports, rout ~ chomftus along both long tdgts of tht blank, and then fiP the blank to width for port H. Tht cut-off pltce becomes part J IDrawing 4)
lettEver ProJects ond Shop Tlpa 2011

(Viewt>d from back)
~. groo~~e .,... deep


When gluing the top (H) to the ring holder sides (I), clamp the pieces to your be nch Check both sides for square to the be nchtop. Cut the rln~ holder 'lidc'> (I) to ~hapc (Drawing 4) Dry-Cit the rlnghnldcr \ldt.\, tup (I I), Jnd tront (J) tugetht.r, .uul CUI I ht. \Upport ( K) to wid I h to fit h\'lwecn the top and front Appl}' \\OOdwurkcr'\ glue to thc top cdHl'\ of t hl' rl ng-huld t.r \ldl'\ ( I ) and <:J,rmp thl top (II) In placc.(Photo 8) Giuc .u1d cJ,unp tin ring-holder f rant Ul to the 11/1 a\\cmhl}, .md glul' tlw \upport (I\) in plun (Photo C). llnr\h \.uul tht. ring-holder .1\\ mhly (I I K), l'Xnpt for the fan of k.

Draw black marker stripes about ~~~ wide on the front of the support (K) to keep the plywood from show1ng be hind the ring bar.

3 4

the ~tralght edge' ot tht hac!.; feet flu\h '"ith the back edge ol tht. bottom. ~inl\h and the top (1,) ,rnd the bot tom U\\embly (1 / M). !'hen glue and clamp the top .rnd the bottom ,l\\Cmbly to the ta\e (A/H/F./1 ), untcrcd \ldc lu \Ide and flmh ,rl till' l>.rl 1.. !Drawing 11 . Appl} glul' tn thl' bottom c.d~c\ ol tht rlng-hulc.h.r \ldt.'\ (I), ,uu.l glue thc ring-holder a\'l'lllhly III-I\) to thl' t:aw !Drawing 1).

Take care of door details

,1\ the \P Cl'r block' (N) II) \I7.C, and rout nr chl'll tht. notdll' In thl'lll for tlw hra.,.,\ !Drawing 3J M,l\k the h.tck~ ul tht. 'PJltr!. and the .rn 1 \\ht.rc t ht.r glu<. to tIll' door ~Ill~:' (C) !Photo Dl.



Addthe top, boHom, and feet

Cut the trim Wp Jnd hottom (l.) ,rnd lect IM) to \Ill' U-.ln~o; ,, tJhlt. mountl'd routl'r, form a +II" cnw along both t.ndc, and till' front t.'dHc of the top .rnd bot tum (I) (Drawing 1). ll.lngc tn .r l4" con hit, and rout ,, cmc on the h,rd.: and imide t.dgc\ o l l'.rch trunt loot (~I) and on tht. lh. tn>nt <.'dgc of c.rt. h loot !Drawings S, 61 .

1 2


,,.. chamfer


' Front


v !vet on bottom

48 Cltttckyourlootlng. To ensure that you rout the correct edges of the feet. loy the bottom (L) facedown on your ~nch and position o loot at each corner. Then mark the Inside and bock edges of each foot.
Chan)!\.' to a 15 chamlcr hrt 111 \our rnutt.r, and rout,, l4" durmlt.r un tht. lrnnt .md uut\ldt. edge' uf cJdl front loot 1~f) .rnd only the. out \ldt. t.dgc uf l'ollh h.rd, foot (\.11 (Drawlllg\ 5, hi. Ghrl' .rnd clamp th( fl'l'l (M) to thl' bottom (I) (Drawing 61 pu'llllonln~





Dealing with the brass

Brass, a soft alloy of copper .~nd Ltnc, work~ ~aslly and polishes to a golden lu\ter, makmg it an Ideal metal to accent woodworkmg proJects. You can buy brass Jt craft and hobby shops, many hardwart" stores, and from online metc1ls dec1lers Js thin ~heels, bar stock, tubtng, ~olid rods, and other shilpes. Here are some helpful tips for making the bra~s bars for the jewelry ca\<''

Mask the glue surfaces for the spacer blocks

(N); finishing the door and pplylng the

Prevent scratches.
Flat br.m often comes with a plastic prot("(ltve sheet Leave tt tn plact' for cutting and dnlling If your b.u stock doesn't have protecttve covcnng, apply painter's t.1pe When gripping brass stock 1n a VIS<, wr<~p It with paper or rags for further protection. Cut with a hacksaw. Brass cuts E'ilStly w1th a 32tooth -per-nch hacksJw blad~ Woodworking handsaws with hoJrdcned, fine teeth w1ll cut brttss, but the blad<'s may dull qu1ckly After saw1ng, f1l~ or sand the cut ('nd smooth Centerpunch before drilling. Lay out hole locattons accurately, and punchmark the centt>rs so the drtll won't skid around and mar the surface Fluted or Weldon-style countersmks work well on br,us Polish and protect. Poli)h the bars wtth progressv ly ftner sandmg sponges from 220 to 400 grit. For a shtnter fintsh, contmue polishing wtth 600-grit, 1,200-grlt, or fmer, wet o r-dry sandpaper. Spray c11ight coal of clt'clf lacquer onto th~ bars to protect them from tarnish and flngNprints (We U\Cd satin lacquer.)

velvet Is easter with the spacers unattached.


ut two p11.<.l'\ ol 1 1 hr,t\\IMr \It)(..!.. to kn).tth. I ,tv out, drill, and lCIUilll"f\1111.. a t llHHIIltlll~ hnll ll'll tl'rld .I rom l.',tt h I.'IHI (Drawlng 31 \1.1. Shop Tip 49 111101\' lor \ll~gC\tlom on worktng w1t h hra'' Pmlliun thl' hln~~' in lhl' nwrti'>l' o n t hl' door \idl l( ), .utc.l 111.1 rk ,utd drill till' strew hok'l. I hu1, do thl \JilW un the <.a<,c \itlt. (t\) !Drawings 1, 31 Attadt till' hlll~l'\ tu tt.'\t thl door Ill, .1nd tlnn rem ow t hl'lll < ut a 2 4 hl.1nk lor thl c..1tc.h hind.\ (0). I I} out thl' l\\O hhxk' on nppo\ltC conwr'l of tlw hl,lnk (Draw lng 71. md drill thl hull\ for thl \trikt: Mtd c.atdl )Photo E l < ut t hl h hloc. J,.' t rom t lw hl.111 1.., tIn hh-\,tlld the m . .tnd Vllll' t lu:m to tlw door ,uul ' tw )Drawing l j. I hl' hlock tor thl' m.l~rwtu. t..lllh ):lues to till' <-'"-'


1t h ,, t.thll ,,,.. .md d.tdn wt, ur a t.lhh.-mounted ruutl'l , lor m t ht. \4 rabh~.:t ' In t ill' front .utd IMtl- {JI) and 'lid<.\((}) (Drwlng 81 Drill a ' ' holt. nntcrt.d nn t'<lt"h dr,twcr lmnt (I') to a<.tl'pt a tkcor.t 11\C hr.l\\ 1-noh. (,hll' and ll.tmp thl' dr,l\'e" (1'-Rl, c h1.c:klng fur \<}liMl'. Aftlr 1he ghll' dril''>, rout ,1 '4" r,1hh1.t 1 ,. <.11.+.. p ,li on~ tlw Iront bot tom l'd~c ot h dr,1wcr to lll.lkl' .1 \hadow line IDrwlng 8) l'lnl,h ...uul the d r,1wcr~.

2 \\

For sfer handling, mark the catch blocks on one blnk. Band saw the blocks off the blank, cutting outside the line, and sand to the line.

Time for final assembly

llnhh-,.snd an> part\ .s\ IIHl \\M\ . \ppl\ ,, l.ll'M llnl\h to thl' <.J\e "'"-'lllhlh door (C/1>/< i), <.1 r,IWI.'I' { P It), .llld \fMter him: I..' ("J) {We .1pplil'd thrlc coal\ of 'atin pOI)-\trllh.uw, hulling with . ~20-grlt ,,tt bl.'tWl.'l'll l<.><ll'l.) Cut and apply \d f .sd he\iH win t tu th lll\idc nl thl' door p.llll'l ((.,), thl lmid1. of thl' IMck (I ) nbow tht. ring holdlr, .md tlw Imide. of the drawlr botturm (R) IDrwlngs 1, 3, Sj.

Now you need two drawers

'ltd I.'' (QJuul hot toms {R) to )Drawing 8).

< ut the dr,tWl'r front\ .1nd IM<.ks {JI),


Remove thl' nt<t'lkln~ t.tpc. and g lul' tht. \ IMll'l blml..'l (!'.)to thl' lmldt. of thl' dum \ldl' !C l l>rlll pi lot holl' In tlw 'flnr hloct..c., and att,tch the hra\\ hat\ )Drawing 1). Scu. w tlw \trike pl.tH. to thl cJtdt block (01 un till' door, .snd (>rl'\\ thl' llhiJ.:IlCtic <..Itch Into the catc.h bind on thl' cao;c l'hl'll rl'lmlall thl' hln~l'\ on the door C ut ,, pll<-l' o f <.'.~tdhoard to I r, 7 M.trk thl '>paling lur thl' lour hook-. along o n e td~t (Drawing 3). l'n\tiiOil thl 'Jl<-mg g lldl' Imide. thl' door nlong the to p, and drill pilnt holes fur thl' hook' !Photo F). lkpl.'.lt th is for thl' c I'll' h ook,, thl'n 'lt.rl'\' In the hook~.
leatlver Pro)ecta and I hop Tip a 2011


Materials List
IINI\111 0 \Ill


Mtl Qty

Case a nd door
A ca~sldes
~lie toplbouom


6' door \Ides W 1Y." 0' door top/bottom W l W

!.h41~s ~

W ------------W



w -----w
W 2

8 "
1s ~






Y.' 81 :


w av.
~ 2"'

w ww

Ring h older

H' top







K'' support

14' ~ 14" 3~
a ~



top/bottom feet
~P<'< ~blocks
c.~tc.h blocks




h" above the tip to serve as a depth stop.
When you drill pilot holes for the shoulder hooks, wrap a strip of painter's tape around the bit

:t\' ~

2'' 3"




P frontVb.xks


----------~~~7 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~0 ~ P--~ 2-

w w

Mterlls key: W walnot. BPblrch plywood. Supplies: 16XW bms flathe.)d wood scr~ lix~' br,J\S b.rr StOCk, l ~xl V " br~s h.n<JI' (21. t' brot\S \houlder hooks (8) Bld nd bits: dado ~et !<. and,_. cove. y. straght. -45 ch<lmfer router bits

4~... 7~ selfadhesive velvet, centered ., v.- rabbet ~ deep


ru" d~p cut after membly

Vel11et, ring br knobs, ctch: Bladtself ad~ velvct.l2,.24"rtem346S6.S10.99 .ako.valabltln red. item 10471, green, Item 10489; and blue, Item 10497l black p.lddcd ring bar, 3 <24',Item 35248. S2369 (also .vallable in red, item 32675;91 ~n, ltPm 39&40; and blue, rt-'m 3.'97Sk bra sknob. Item 3s.451, 5-4.39, ~. round magnetic catch, package of 4, Item 29272, 56.69.Rockier, 800279 4441 or rocklercom.
Wrrtten by hrry Jo hnston w1th Kevi n Boyle




P!OjtCI drstgn Jeff Me rtz

I ...

IllustratiOn\ Roxann e LeMoi ne; l orn Jo hnson

1" .

CuHing Diagram


ut the paddld ring har to kngth to fit Ill I he C,l\l', ~pr.:l\ a<lhl'W>l' Oil I hl' hack of It, and pn.'~S it o nto thl' rtn~
holdtr \Up port ( K>. \t tttc h ,, hr,,,., !..nob to ea<.'11 dril\\C r Iron t {JI), .tnd 'Ill de tIll' dra\\Cr'> 1nto the cahln<:t. Hnall), Jti<Kh till' door hlngc\ to t he c<~hinlt.

x 9l x 96' Walnut (6.7 bd ft.) 'Plane or resaw to the thlc:kneues listed In the Materials List. tlf book matching panel, resaw from 11 :. thick material.

lx 12 x 24 811ch plywood


Though perfectly suited for your bath or kitchen, this project also can be used to hold quilts and collectibles throughout your house.
..mout h to cr~att a template. I hLn drill a 1 A hoi<.' through each hole center. I av the hardboard template on ,, \ldt ( \ ), wath the hack edge'> and bottom cnd'i flu'ih. Trace tlw t(mplatc onto the side. l lghtl} hamm~r tl 6d fl n1\h nilll through each ~ hoiL to m.arl.: till' dowel-hole cenH.:rpoint'i !Photo AI. Pl.lte the template, pattern down, on t h~ other ~Ide and rcp<~Jt. 1igsaw the \Ide., (1\) to -.hapc !Photo B l. (Sec Shop Tip 51 on t he llt.''<l priSt' to<. home the be-.t bl.lllc.) I hen ..and the proflh. 'im<>oth to tlw lim.


1 (. 2

Mater ials: I cherry, cherry (or a bc:~dbo .Jrd panel), two 1"
dowels (cherry, af available).


on' t let th~ <.' urvlng -.hapc'> .ami prl' ciwl\ poo;itiomd towd b,u., fool vou. U lng onl> \lmple tool\, readIly tl\'ailahll' \upplil''> from vmar lotal homL' ccntl'r, and th~ t ip'> WL' provldl', you'll haw tim projt'tt read> in .a\wektnd.

start by cutting the parts

ut t lw \ldL\ (.\), \hLII (B), and top Materials List, JIIISt' H11. the She lf Side Pattern on {JII~t H.J to 12 S'lu. Mo u nt t he JMII ~rn to W h.ardboa rd wit h 11pr.ay tad ht'IIH', to \ lt.ape, a ml t h Ln \,and I he tdgi.''>
(C) to l'

Blades a nd Bits: 1" Forstner b1t, rabb<'tmg bit, n" straight bit, ~ counter~lnk/countcrborc bit



(opta on,ll)


tlvr Profcta o nd Shop Tlpa 2011

The few minutes s~nt creating a template make It possible to create Identical, mirrored sides (A) with precisely aligned counterbores.

To minimize sanding, use a Jigsaw with a 12- 20 tpl blade to cut the sides (A) just to the waste side of the line you traced.

Instead of measuring, use the shelf (B) Itself to lay out the stopped rabbet on the underside of the top (C).

18 x 1W F.H wood screw


" plug long


t\" counterbore t\" d p bl" shank hole ctntcr~ Inside

,8 X 111} F .H
wood screw


50 Tum drllllnto drum..,_,.,,

To s~ed the sanding process, check out the free plans for a drill-powered drum sander available at Then go to t n sand ng for a free video on using your budget minded drum sander.

Pick the right Jigsaw blade

As a versat1le tool, JigsJws will cut through anything from ceramic tile to brass rods, dependmg on your choice of blade. For cl an cuts on gentle curves in hardwood lumber, outfit your j1gsaw w1th a 20 toothper-mch (tpi) blade, hke the one shown. The blade's narrow body also helps you cut tight curves without binding

Drill,, 1 wuntcroore ~ dllp ,,, till' nail marl.;\ un the .,tdcs ( \) 1\Vc u\cd ,, I or\lllcr bit II yvu U\l ,, '>p.ldl' hll, l,ty the hit tip on 1hl' cdgl' of ,, \I til' tn hl'

<:crt.lln the long <:enter \pur won't blow thrma~h the outl'r face.)


Begin a stopped rabbet on the top (C) at the first mark and continue until you reach the mark on the opposite e nd.

Spacers clamped to the sides (A) keep the shelf (8) fro m slipping out of alignment as you d rill and drive screws. 'lide'i (A) with the edge) and e nds flu ~ h )Phot o E). Place the '> h e If ( B) het weerl 1h e ~i des with the ra bbe t to t h e back fa c ing up. Mo unt the to we l bar~ (1:.) bet ween the -;I de~, and clamp the a\scmbly. Drill the countc rbo rcd c;h ank h o les for the ~hcl f ( 13) '>cre w-. )Dra wing 1). 1 :or the #8 su cw'l, d rill Yn" \han!.. h o les and Vr.t" pilo t h o le'>. Drill countcrbo rc'i ~" d eep. (!>ce Shop Tip s 54 and ss o n 1h e /1('>.1 pa:. wfor a pair o f tlmc-s.wing tool'!.) Drill and d rive both bac k \C rew~ fir'lt , the n rcpo~lli on thc clamp to add the front 'i<.:rcws. Cente r t h e to p (C) o n the sides (A), <Hld c h eck that t lw rabbc t c nds a rc fl u sh w llh thc ln -,ldc faces o f the \Ide~. C la mp the top In po sition. Drill coun -

A combination counterbore/pllot drilling accessory makes quick work of boring screw holes In the top (C).

With a v.." rabbeting bit, ro ut the back l'dgc o f t he ~ hcl f ( ll) to accept the back '> late; ( D) )Dra wing 1). Marl.. a ccntcrlint! o n t h e rabbe ted ed ge o f the 'ih elf (ll) a nd o n the u nde rc;idc o f the to p (C). Alig n t he two ce nte rlin e~ a nd m a rl.. the ~ h e lf e nd s o n the to p (Photo C). rhe n rout a \ topped ra bbet o n the to p (Pho to Dl a nd squa re t he co rner~ wit h a c hisel. C ut two towe l ba r'i ( E) to le ngth and \and them to 220 g rit. If you pian to ~ lain t h e pro Ject, \ lain t h e towe l ba r\ b e fore a'o 'iembllng the ~hc l f.

tc rbo rec.J shank hole~ In the to p; the n dri ve the \U{.'W'I !Photo F). C ut ten 20 "-lo ng bac k-sla t (D) bl a nk~. II you have a ro ute 1 table, u sc a ~ o;tra ight ro ute r bit to rabbet the b l a nk<~ )Dra wing la]. If n o t, ro u t t h e m freeh a nd wit h a 1 Ac" rabbet ing bit (~ec Shop Tip 53).


52 Swop 7t slots fo' one ponel. If you can't find '~"-thick cherry stock at your local supplier, substitute beadboard plywood. Cut the plywood to fit the rabbeted opening In the bock, stain It to match the cherry {Photo G), and attach It with W brads.

Assemble the shelf

Fro m 'lcr.lp pl y wood , c ut two 6x8 '1.z'' 'ipaccrs. C lamp the ~pace rs to the


ro~scut the bacl.. slats (0 ) to le n g th, then rip th e rahlK ted ed ge o ff the t wo outside sla ts. Sa nd the ~ lat s to 220

Rout quick, safe rabbets with this simple jig

Guiding a handheld route r along 2 "-wlde parts to cut 20 rabbe ts in 10 blanks c an turn into a dicey balancing act. However, this simple jig makes repe titive routing a breeze. Begin with a Y..x6x28" MOF base. Then add three ~"-thick MOF pieces -a 4 )(20" piece beside the workpiece and 4 x6 pieces at either end- to capture the bac k-slat (D) blank and support the rou te r base. Insert a blank into the jig recess. Starting at th e left e nd o r the jig, rabbet the Jig and blank edges, as shown at right. Then turn the blank upside down, and rout a second rabbet. Rcpe.-.t for the other b lanks.


Beat-Ever Project and Shop Tlpe 2011

SHOPTIPS 54 & 55
Cover up screws with these two accessories
Countersink/ counterbore Plug cutter

Che rry gel st ain colors p ine bead board p lywood without blo tch ing . Na il the b ack o n 1fter finis hing the rest o f t he shelf.

Nail each slat (0) to t he to p (C) a nd sh e lf (B) usin g a 1.\" spacer to se pa rat e t hem. This adds sha dow lints and allows for expansion.

Counterbore Counte rsin k

II <.k'\lr~:d (\l'l.' d~tail\ I /mvabout the gd 't 1111\\\. \Ck<t~:d I Att.tdl nne. n.~rmwcr nut'iitk \lat (I>. wtth the rahhlll.'d l'<lt-:l' up, U\lng brad\ I hen h t\\Uthird' uf th1. runatnlng \ltll\, \l'JMr.ttln~ thun with 1 !-' thltk 'Pc~r !Ph oto HI.( '\ cr.tlt' \lid.. will wort....) Wh1.n you ~<.'l to tlw 1,1\t \IX \lat\, <opJI.l' thun l'\l.'llly JJl.lrl within the runalnlng '>JM<~ ,utd tt.tllln pl,tcc. Buy m m.1kc. K."wn()d plug' ~ tung, and glue. th1.m Ill pl.lCc m r the "'rcw\, C:uttlw pht)ot\ llu\h '.\'tth ,, \harp Cht\l'l or \aW IPhot o IJ,llld \Jnd \lll()Oth. grit .tnd


Pilot-hole b it

A flush t rim saw cu ts p lu gs flush Without marring the surround ing surf1ce. Then smooth the p lugs by flnlsh sanding.

ltni\h ~and pJrt\ tn 220 gnt.


\t<llll, If tll'\lfl'd, ,llld J dl'M fllli\h. (We uwd Mlnw.tx nu. 607 C h~n ywood ~cl \tilllliO lc\\l'll hlntdllng, follow~d hy two C<Mh ol wipl.' on pul> ur~t ll.IIH.'.)

Two low co\t drilling accessories help you hide the screws used to a~semble this shelf. The ~ countersJOk/counterbore b1t (see Sources bC'Iow) drill~ a countcrbore, a countersink for flathead screws, and J p1lot hole in one p.1ss to s<1ve time dnd increase accuracy. To fill lh<' counterbore, make pluqs 1n scrdp using a plug cutter mode for use 1n handheld drills. Th<>n ~aw or pry the plugs loos<>.

Wrtlltn by lob W Ib o n w h Kevin Boyle Pro,rct dt 9"~ Roger Kelndel

lllu)traton) Roxanne Le Moine l orn a John son


CuHing Diagram





\1 If


' x n. x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)

'Plane or to the thkkne~s listed 1n the Matenals List.

top 14' 7' ... 2" c 19 l>.l(k slats towt'lbars l"dlam. 33~" E 'Parts tnllially cut o~~erseze. See lnwuctlons. use chrrry dow h tf available

32Y." 3814" 91oi"

c c c

Matert1ts key: C-cht-rry.B-birch Supplies: $8x1WIIatheadwoochaew\, t \6x "bfads. Ills: k"wa19ht bi 'rabbetef19 bit, 1' FontMr bit Countenlnlc/ counterbon bit: 18cour.teoink no.


'\4 x 31 x 24' Cherry (.7 bd. ft.)

1' dl,lm. 36' Cherry dowel (2 needed)

SOJ0408.S7.80.LwVa ey,SOO 871-81S8or~~.sleycom Plug cutter: S~lf centenng ~ diameter plug cutt~ no. ~BHl37S. S160S. Mcfeely's, 800443 7937 or md ~com


proJect panern lor

wa11 Shelf and Towel Rack

1" counterbore Wdeep

Use this pattern to complete the Wall Shelf and T owel Rack project beginning on page 80. Enlarge to 125% to create a full-size pattern.
Got a woodworking que~tlon you need answered quickly? VIsit woodrnag11l 'lt orn/ g n rc.lfc um


(Enlarge to 125%)

1" counterbore '11" deep

6" Location of part@

~ shank hole



Buldlng square prOJCCts, pago 110


If you think of your tablesaw as a machine for simply ripping or crosscutting, you're selling it short. To give you a fresh perspective, we mined the minds of the WOOD magazine staff and unearthed their favorite time- and work-saving tablesaw tips. Here's a mother lode of helpful hints you can put to work in your shop today.

Save time and money by making your saw work smarter

Make a quick zero-clearance tabletop. Instead of crafling a new zero clearance 1nsert to replace your tablesaw's factory throat-plate insert, create a temporary tabletop, shown obo11t fight, for your saw in seconds. First, position tht> fence for the cut you 1ntend to make. Attach a piece of 1 4 hardboard to your tablesilw top w1th clamps or double-faced t.,pe Next, raise the blade through the hardboard to the culling height. Then rip your stock to width Two-step stop d efines a dado. Don't have a dado set? Or do you need to machine a dado w1der than your stacked set can handle? You can cut consistently w ide slots usmg th1s double stop. The distance between the on ends of the stops is the key dimens1 First, subtract the width of the desired dado from the w1dth of the saw blade or dado set, and then offset the stop ends by that amount Position the stock against one stop and make the first cut. Repos1lion the stock agamst the other stop and make the second cut (If you're us1ng a single blade, "nibble" away the waste between the kerfs .) To keep the Jig accurate, we created dust relief by adding a ~ plywood spacer, slightly offset, to the bottom of the fixture.

Not~: ~1/llfrl\ llrll'e b,r, ,, 1/IUI\rl ill

111, !' pllelto~ fm tfmill. i \11\,1)" 11\t' lllt

IIJIJ'rtlf'lirl/1! ~afd}' .~llrllrl\ 1dt11 }~II/I /r1<1h.


leatEver Project a and Sho p Tip s 2011

Trim edge bndlng with your tblesw. If you're conurned bout the
~tab11ity of pNchmg a router on the edge of a plywood '>hell to clean up overhanging edg ) on solid-wood or vrnt c:r h.lnclmq, then rt"ly on your table\,lW .md rip fence- Make "' IUXIII.try ' nce 4- 6' 1.111 and cut a r<tbbet mto it., fl. f.~ee dt ICM\t .n wide ,,., the bi<Jde''> kNI Mount tlw .tuxrli<try fence to your rip fcncf' ,md position 1t \O th.:Jt its ft~ce Is flu\h w1th the out)lde edge of the blade. (Test the \ttup by runn1ng \Crapwoocl agaimt the fence: If the blade contact\ the scrap, nudqe the fence closer to the blade and test 1t ag11in .) Hold the shell to be tttmmcd - b..mdmq down, w1th the exce\\ <'dqinq in the r.1bbt"t, as shown btlow and trirn 11 flu\h For best re~uiH, U'>C' an 80 tooth c.trb1de blade .rnd !NO CIC'dftH1C(' IIU<'ft.

SHOPTIPS 60, 61, 62 & 63

Set up your tablesaw for success
Cllbrte your miter guge, prt I . To ensure your mter c aug
w1th th bl.rdc, try tht) triCk. Set It for ' 90 crm\wt one end of a 6' (or wider) )tr,lp. Fhp the ~crap top for-bottom, kf(pmq the same t'dge ,,g,umt the miiN CJ.UICJP., ,,\ shown brlow, .md rept:>at tlw cut at th other end oft he scrap. Now, comp.ue th lengths of the two edges or the Kr.lp us1ng ,, prem1on steel rule. If A and B m.ttch ext~ctly, your m1tcr gauge rs square. II not. adrust the gauge and the test cuts until they 11re, and re~et the 90 stop

Cllbrte your miter guge,

II The t1p .11 Hl do sn't work to check the 45 stop, so do th1s imtr.tcl l uy u rl'lt.rble fr.11nlnq \qu.trt on the tabletop as shown below, so that the cdgt oltht' m1tcr slot .1hqns w1th the ~.rmt' d1mtm1on m.rrk1ng 011 both legs olthC' \qu.ue (In the photo, we.: U\td th 6 markings inside the square.) loosen the m1ter g.1ugc, slid 11 flat UP !JliiUt one h. g of the squ.ue, .md r lighten rt. Reset the 45 stop, tf your m ter gauge has one. See pogt" I I I for ,, 11p on c,tllbr.ttlllg a fram1ng squ.tre.


Top llde

Trim edge bndlng: the sequel. Use 1 ~1m1l.u techruqu( to flu5.htnm th

txu ..., IC'nqth from \olld -wood (cfqe b,mdlny 1111\ tinw, thouqh, cut ,, notch JU\t ,, whl\kt r wlckr th.ltl your \,rw blade in,, \Crtlpwood '>J>tlCN, <1~ shown m the photo brlow Aq ..rin, pmltton your frnct" \o th.rt th" f>.tcf'r\ out '>ide edue 1\ flu,h w1th the outsid of the blade, and make a test cut. Tr1m ofl the end of th bJndmg.

Locte the "wide" teeth fst .

W1th ,m .tdju\table cf11do blc.1dc (sonwtlfll('\ c.tllcd a "wobblrr"), It'\ hard to te-ll which tooth cut\ f.uthtst to the lclt and wh ch cut\ farthest to the right. Find the w1de\tcuttmg tooth -or teeth, tn the case of the dual-blade adjustable d do shown bc/ow-u~ng a square. Then lab I tiMt tooth's post w1th a pcrm<tnrnt markt>r. Now you c.1n mt>asure frorn that tooth when setting up your cut.


perfect footprint

C.tst 1ron ts softer you might I hink, .md .m uneven floor c c.1n .tctu.11fy tr.unkr 1U wtHp to your tnble~nw top. So, after you'v found the perfect level ~pot for your saw, rn.tsk off the legs, then spray p.1int around each loot to mark ther loc.ttloru, <IS \hown below. Now you stow llw <tnd l.tter move It back to the correctloc.ltlon w1th confldtncc.


SHOPTIPS 64, 65, 66 & 61

Add more support and storage to your saw
Tke your outfeed tble on the rod . A permanent outfeed table tsn't practical in a sm.:tll shop: You just can't ded1cate that much real estate to it . The fold-down outfeed table shown bt>low extend~ 3' of support beyond the blade, yet adds only a few inche~ of d pth to the back of the saw when stowed. And it's alway~ ready, even on .:t mobile-base equpped saw. (You'll f1nd plans to purchase thh outfeed table ;at woodm gaz.n com outf edtablc.)

e Mke n lnstnt extension tble. A ssmple T-shap

support, made from scrap particleboard, plywood, or MDF, mounts 1n your portabl clamp~ng workstation, as shown IH/ow. Once you've matched the )Upport to your table height, drill the base of the support and in)ert doweh to imtantly set the height cnch time. To make this table cv n more vcnatlle, use it w1th your bandsaw and mttersaw, drilling paratc dowel hoi s for each height .

Put wings beneth your wings. How do you ketp .111 of those tabl~w cccuori~ cl~ at hand Without being und~ foot? Take two p es of 1 ngl iron a coup of nches shorter than the width of your saw top and screw th m to the front and rtar of your contractor-style ~aw's stand, as shown btlow. Now cut plywood shelves to Itt between the stand and the ends of the dngle iron, and screw them on top of 1t (h1dden from view). Add a stnp of hardwood at the end of cJch shell to keep things from falhng off, and you g.1in valuablt storage \p.lCC

Build your own bse . There's no l.lw thJt says you have to use the \t~ I leg stand that cam with your contractor style tablesaw. Replace tt with a simpl cabinet, .such ;n the one shown btlow, lnd not only wtll you add enclosed )lor;age but also your saw wsll run quieter. This is a great way to tmprove dust collection, too. To purchase a downloadable plan for this ba~e. vt~it woodmagaztn com/Uupgrad


lestlvef ProJects ond Shop n ps 2011

- - - - -

SHOPTIPS 68, 69, JO & 11

Four simple Jigs Increase speed and accuracy
Make cleaner croucuu. A 1eroclearance croucut sled, when p.1ired wtth a quJiity blade, vtrtually eliminates tear-out in ven ered plywood, guarantees a square cut, and costs just pennies to make. We sptffed up the sled shown at right with an dJUSt ble stop, but that'll JUSt the icing on th ca e. This fenc -forw rd d s gn allows you to cut wid r workpiec:es than one with the fence dos r to th opttrator. Durtng assembly, locate the mtter bar so that about W of the fence will STOP DETAIL ov rhang th blad 8 fore you use th ba~e and sled, run tt through the biJde to remove this excess and create a tero clear.lnce edge.

litx 2 \?" R H. INCh ne scrtw with hud cut off

x 1Yu3\top

Epoxy wing nut tol"' 'Ioeser w


'4x2"Fii mac hint! KrllW

4 ttnaded Insert

e Taper with confidence. You can

buy or build mort elaborate tapering Jgs, but thts stmple he l~r btlow wtll handle most of your tapermg chores. It runs tn the \aw's mtter-gauge slot To use the 1'9 measure the wtdth of the sl d and set your fence that destance from the blade. Remove the top scr(.'W, loosen the pivot screw, rotate th f nee to match your des red taper, and then tighten both screws. Butt your workpiec:e agamst the dowel with on edge against the jig's fence, and then cut your t<~per.

Or the width of the miter '9<'U91!! llot, tf not


F.H. wood screw

e Miter better with a d edicated sled

For perfect mtter JOints, It's more important that both mtt r cuts add up to precisely 90 than e.lch mttcr t\ tox.lctly 45 . fhis bl.ldc str.lddltng mttN cuttmg sled emurcs th.ll those complement .try cuh .tlways equ11l c1 rtqht angle To mst.'lll the miterslot gutdes on the bottom of the sled, plact' the gwdt'' m your \aw's slots, set the sled on top of them, and th n dnve screws tnto the gutdes through the top of the sled. Now cut a blade kerf about halfway across the sled. Using a comb n<llton square, m<~rk the loc<~tton ol th right-hand fence 45' to that kerf, and install th fence on that hne. Place a reltable frammg \quar 9 inst that fence to locate th left fence. rSx I"F.H.woodKrew rest the left fcrl<e agalmt the square, and th n screw It into place. Make te)t cut~. c1nd tf need d, remove the fence ~rew farthest from the kerf, adJu~t the fence') angle, and dnve a new screw to secure it. I I

'h" plywood



contmurd on pogt' 90


C()(l/ n~ lmrn f:OOfJt


Saddle your saw f e nce for cutting tenons. If cutting the end~ of parts such dS tenons on the t blesaw gtve$ youth hceb e I bes, thb np-fenc $IIddie will put you at ease. ltsupporu taU stock from both th sad nd b hmd. All you hav to do Is d mp th workpiece to th ddl und guide it through the cut. A coott of paste wax on the tn~tde of the saddle where tt contact~ th fence mJke~ the saddl ghd smoothly.



Practice common (and uncommon) sense
Keep It clean B lore making <1ny cut, clear th tabl top .)f all scrap wood, tools, lcl\tcner\, .md other dcbris . ( tnclucfm n lt u\tng the

objects not fence only c.Jstr ct but they also top of your as a tool twy.) Thc)C can becom misstl s. e Set the right h eight . lh re are ~ lots of tdeas floottng round about proper blade hetght, hut freud'~ lim Brewer ha~ the fina l word, advising th.u about half the htghest tooth should protrudr ,tbovc the workpiece, Js shown In photo ,,, right Brewer emphasi1cs tiMI thr hottom of the tooth should ncvtr be higher than the workpiece top. -' Protect your eyes. Without face-hugging f ty glasses, airborne dust and c.h ps c n blur your vision (not good in t mlddl of a cut), or worse, injure your eyes p rmanently. A good pair of sui ty glanes costs leu than a vtsit to the ER, ~o huy a pair and wear them Employ a feathered friend . The . . fingers of a fc .tth rbo rd h.lndtly hold a workp e< snug g nst th f nee so you can conccnt rat on f dmg the workpiece t a st dy pace. Mount the f ather:board so that th fingers end before the cutttng st ru, s shown in photo at to prev nt trapping the olfcut and lcnmc.h1ng It eros\ the shop.

-~-----------------L-olil~- 1' vr





lett lvr Pro Jecta ond Shop Tlp t 2011

When making a through cut, always use the fence or miter gauge, but never both Two cuts


you should never cons1der: freehand cutting (w1th no assistance from the rip fence or miter gauge); and using both the fence and miter gauge to guide a workpiece as shown in photo at right. In both cases, the workpiece will likely bind on the blade, sendmg It flying back at you. (Note When cutting dadoes, you may safely use a miter gauge and fence together.) Be alert! The tablesaw injury story often begins with, " I was makmg the last cut of the d<Jy .." Fatigue leads to errors in judgment that, in turn, lec1d to miscut workpieces or worse. Also, repetitive cutting chores can lull you mto carelessness, so take frequent breaks. e Don't overreach . Any time your hands get within 6" or so of the blc1de, you should hear alarm bells 1n your ht>ad Keep pushsticks handy and use one to complete the cut whenever your digits get within the danger lone

One-handed bar clamp keeps crosscuts square. When crosscutting ....

long pieces, it's helpful to have an extra hand to ensure a square cut. Call on a one-handed bar clamp to hold the workpiece t1ghlly against the auxiliary fence as shown in photo at nght

Use playing cards to microadjust your tablesaw fence

If your t.lblesaw fence doesn't have .... a microadJustment knob, you can make finely tuned cuts if you play your cards right. To make a cut right on the money, make a test cutin scrap c1nd then check the measurement. Then, slide a wooden block against the inboard or outboard side of the fence depending on which way you need to adjust the cut- and clamp the block to the s.:~w table, as shown in photo at right Next loosen the fence, insert or remove a playing card or two between the block and tht> fence, relock the fence, and make another test cul.

Strike out pitch with Fo rmula


409. A tablesaw blc1de gummed up

w1th p1tch produces 1nferior cut~ Although there are specialty blade cleaning products on the market, Formula 409, a kitchen cleaner, does a great job cuttmg through the pitch, dS shown in photo at nght. For partcul.uly stubborn p1tch deposits, let the blade soak in Formula 409, then scrub the deposits with an old toothbrush .

Watch FREE tablesaw videos at WO(J c! n c1 n n 'l t basics


It's easy to understand why WOOD magazine has published hundreds of router tips over the past 25 years: This favorite woodworker's tool also is one of the most versatile in the shop. Here are some of our all-time best router tips.

Reset a fence quickly
Two-piece rall-andSttle bits usc the exact same fence setup for both bit~ . But that perfect fence location must be dl~turbcd to swap bits. Save time resettmg your router-table fence flush with the bit bearing and parallel to the miter slot with this handy gauge. After adju~ting the fence flush wtth the bit beartng and parallel to the mtter ~lot, Install the jig in the miter slot. Sltde the gauge blocks up to the fence, and tighten the wing nuts to secure the blocks Then remove the jig, and m<~ke your first set of cuts. After you move the fence to change btts, remount the jig in the miter slot. Slide the fence against the blocks, and

Watch FREE router technique videos at .....,c,Qdm.lg . ine com. rout( rllp'l

tighten It tn place. If your router table lacks a miter slot, lengthen the gauge blocks so the hardwood runner rides against the front edge of the tabletop.

leal Ever Projects and Shop Tips 2011

Th1s gUide helps you center a stra1ght bit of any width on the centerline of your dado. Start by ripping two strips from .4" plywood or medium-denstty f1 berboard to the d1 mens1ons shown below With the edges butted ttghtly together, connect


Hinged Jig simplifies routing dead-center dadoes with straight bit

the p1eces w1th hmges . In your router, mount a straight bit the same diameter as the thickness of the stock going mto the dado. Ad;ust the btt for the depth of the dado Mark the center of each dado on your workpiece. Align the flip-up gauge edge w1th a dado mark, and square up the 119 to the workpiece, as shown below centtr Then clamp it In place. Flip the gauge up over the fence and use the fence edge to gUide the router as you dado-cut, as shown below.

Make guide~ 6" / " longer than workpte<:es.

Align edge with centerline of dado Width equah dt,lan<e to be routtd from bit center to router ba~ fdge.

A pair of paths to precise plunges
You can fuss wtlh rulers .md depth gauges all you want. but here are two qutck and easy ways to precisely set your plungerouter cuttmg depth. The method shown below uses a drill btl to exactly st>t a router ~ plunge depth. First, place the router on your bench and lower the btl untilt touchel the bcnchtop. Then lock 1t tn pl.:~ce. loosen the depth stoprod, and \andwich a dnll bt of a dtameter equal to the plunge depth between the turret stop and rod. Then tighten the stop rod in place. Unlock the plunge mechanism, and you're ready to plunqe mto your proJeCt at the reqw d depth The method below uses spacers planed to the s.1me thiCkness to determine the depth or your plunge cuts Place the router on .:1 pair of spacers, .1nd lower the b1t until it touches the l>nchtop Lower and tighten the stop rod agamst the turret stop. You're now ready to rout.


Tape your way to tighter dadoes
AdJuSting a jig or straightedge to widen a dado Jun a hair can create more probl m~ thJn t solves. Instead, leave your guide In place and add ~tur of tape long the router-ba~e edge, as \hown below. That nudges the bit away from the guide when you recut. Four layers of blue p.linter'~ tape adds up to about Yo.t".

Gauge blocks simplify bit setups
H.we you ever p.tlnstakingly set a btl height, only to ftnd that you needed to return to it later? M king lndrvidual gauge blocks for rall-andstd , raisedpancl, finger-joint, and proflhng btts save~ setup ume. You can rout them from medtum-denstty fiberboard or hardwood, but ultr., htgh molecular.weight (UHMW) polyethylene, shown below, makes ,, more stable block . (Assortment Hl-43291, Sl2, from Woodcraft, 80022S11S3 or From stock planed to the same thlckne\) as your pro1 ct paru, cut blanks at leau <4" wtde nd 6- 8" long. Next, set up the btt in the router table and make test cuu n scrap to fine tune the height. After rout1ng pro1ect pt~rU, rout the s.1me prof1le on ,,




gauge-block blank. Repeat for the matmg bh, 11 needed. Then rip the gaug blocks to about 1'h wtde, and lab I them wtth the bit proftle and stock thickn ss. To use the gauge blocks, chuck a b1t into your table mounted router and ra1:.e the btl to roughly tht" correct hetght. Place the g.1uge bloc k wtlh the mating profile bestde the btl . Then raise or lower the b1t untllt ~lldes 1nto the routed profll on the block, as shown be/0\01. lock the h ight. You'll stll need to test-cut scrap for a d ad-on f1t, but the gaug blocks will m ke that go a lot faster.


Mepleset up block


polyethylene setup block

Jig simplifies parallel passes
Whether you're routing dovet.ltl slots, ..~~ \hown at fight, or T ~lolled wall\torage system panels, here's a time-s wing Jig for you. It indexes from the previously routed slot to ensure evenly spaced d4does, dovetails, and groov s. from scrap v.r plywood, cut a subbase to Itt your rout r and project. Ftrst, rout a dado on the subbase bottom whef'e the dt:.tance b tween the dado and the b1t equals th )pacing b tw en the slots . Make the d.:~do a:. w1de .~~the l'il profile ill the workpec \urface. Th<'n ilttach c\ matching hardwood guidt' In the dt~do. ror CJrOOV<'\ dt'eper lhiln 1 A", mdke progresstvely deeper cuts . For dovetails, rout f1r~t wtth a straight btl, and then ftnish wtlh a dov tall bit for efficient ch p removal.


ther "oJ.cts ond Shop Tlps 2011

Rout stopped cuts with stopblocks
Edge cuts, includeng chamfers, and surface profiles, such as flutes, sometimes need to start and stop precisely and un1formly That's the time to use simple, cu~tomized stopblocks to control where the profile starts and stops on each workpiece. Mec1sure from the point where the cut will stop to the end of the workpiece, subtract the beanng radius, and cut the stopblock to thclt length from scrap at least l,4" thick. Clamp the stopblock to the edge of the workpiece as shown.

Get a grip on small parts
Small parts can drop through oversize router-table Inserts or Instantly tug fingers into the bit To solve both problems, ferst dnll a hole slightly larger than the b1t diameter in a piece of W plywood. Then clamp It to the router-table top for near-zero-clearance support Keep your fingers safe by gripping the part with a hand-screw. The Jaws of these clamps can be angled to fermly grasp odd-shape parts and hold them flat against the zero clearance top.

Shelf-help for trimming edges without tipping
Percheng a hand-held router on a shelf edge to flush-trim solid-wood edges can turn ugly if your machine t1ps. Give your router stability by clamping together the shelves on edge. Cut spc1cer blocks from 2K4 scrap and place them between the shelves at both ends. Then clamp the spacers and ~helves together. (We clamped one of those clamps to the bench for added stability.) Rout each edge with a flush-trim bit If the router wobbles on the edges of the outside shelves, move those pieces to the inside, reclamp, and finish routing

Hole slightly larger than the diameter of the ~ cove bit

A starter pin prevents grabbing and kickback
The toughest part of freehand routeng is easeng the workpiece aga1nst the b1t. To help you gu1de parts safely, make a starter pin from a hardwood, brass, or aluminum rod, and securely mount 1t to the table about 2" from the bit. Brace the workpiece .1gainst the starter p1n, then slowly rotate 1t1nto the bit and ~anng Gnp the workp1ece close to the pen, and usc the above technique for small parts

Rout round-overs, not tip-overs
A t1pping router can ruin the edge of a fenlshed project, so keep that bc~se stable. If you need to round over the outside edges or an assembled box, lip the protect on edge and use the front, back, and sides to support the router base, as shown below left. To rout inside round-overs with equal ease, clamp a 2K4 aux11iary support onto the outs1de surfaces, as shown below fight.

2l<4 aUluliary support clamped nush with top of box

Rout these roond ovtrs using auxehary support



Enlarge holes precisely In two easy steps
Maybe you need to enlarge a hole, or make a dead-on round hole larger than your largest Forstner bit. Do either using a rabbeting and a flush-trim bit. To enlarge a hole's radius by %, first rout a ~-deep rabbet the width of your cutter whtle ke ping the bearing against the edge of the hole. This creates the "step" shown at near right. Next, turn the workpiece upside down and Install a flush-trim bit. AdJust the cutting depth so the beanng rides along the cut made by the rabbeting bit and rout away the step, as shown at /or right.
STEP 1 Make flnt pass with b t.

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Flip wOfkplect, and

makt next tut wtth nu\htrlm bit.

Btt Edge r1bbettd In STP 1


Rout corners consistently
Rounding ove: corners by hand sandtng produces uneven results. Instead, use a roundover bit with the radtus you want for your comers. With the bit chucked on a table-mounted router, ratse the btl height unttltt cuts a quarter round profile tn scrap withoutleilving a ~houlder. Then position the fence flush with the bit pilot beilring To prevent chip-out and keep the frame square to the fence and router-table top, clamp the ptece to a 2)(_. backer block, .ts shown below. Then fhp the template over and, along e<~ch line, drill two ~ holes so their edges just touch the line. Then cut four ~ lengths of W dowel and insert them into the four holes. Dowels should ht snugly enough that they don't fall out, but not too snug to tap through the template ror a tight ftt, moisten dowels and allow them to dry before tnsertlng them In the templdte. Choose a bit that creates the pattern you want, and attach a guide bushing sized to accommodat the routerbtt diameter and the desired offset from the template. To regtster the dowels against the workptece, ftrst tap the dowels flush with ont' side of the router template before you cl.1mp on th~ template Rout the pattern, ~~~ shown btlow felt Then fhp lhctempi.Jte over, tap the dowels flu\h with the opposite surface, a~ shown below right, and rout the mirror verson of the first path .

Router templates help master complicated curves

Templates needn't always follow straight lines and stmple curves. They also handle more complex shapes as long as the template corners aren' t tighter than the diameter of your router guide bushing. This reversible template lets you rout mirror-image patterns, as on this shelf brackel. With .1 different pattern, you could rout matching tambourdoor tracks in the instde races of a rolltop desk or a countertop kttchen appliance holder. There's only one requirement: The workpiece should have at least one walght edge to altgn the template. Make from ~" plywood or veneered medium dcnstty fiberboard, leaving .l n extra Yt'' of material on two ildJclcent edges. Size and shape the template to allow for the diameter of the guide bu\htng With the template in posttton on the workpiece, trace the reference edg s of the workpiece onto th template bottom.


leatlvr Project and Shop Tlpe 2011

To wipe out tear-out, call for backup
Backer blocks not only retnforce routertable cuts, they also double as miter gauges for keepmg parts perpendicular to the fence more relably than a mtter gauge. Use the drawmg bc:low to assemble a backer block from v.." scrap sheet goods, or customi1e tt to suit your

needs One advantage of a base this size is thill you can trim away the routed edges and use the block again wtth a dtfferent prof1le. You also can modtfy the

block to cut tenom on end by glutng on a vertical support to steady the workpiece and a heel to push it into the btl.

hole I'" deep

Rout shelf-pin holes with guide bushing and bit
The downside to mdklng adjustilble sht>lving is drilling the ~helf- pin holes comistenlly Wtth tht) template, however, you can bore clean, precise holes time after time using a plunge router with a gutde bu\hing and stratght btl. Make the template from a wip of W tempered hardboard that's smooth on both stdes. Vary the stnp width and length to sutt the pl.1eement of your shelf-pin holes. ror example, the holes in the 3" w1de template below are offset to rout shelf-ptn holes 1W from the shelf edge on one stdc and 1'.1.4" on the other. Then use a drill press wtlh a bradpotnl bit to bore evenly spaced ~~ holes. (If you're off a hair, rciNendng the router template from the same end of the workpiece every ttmt ensures stable shelves.) Then cl,lmp the t<'mplate onto tht> c.tse stde Mount a " guide bushtng onto th router base. (If the bushing extends pilst the It rnpl.1te bottom, f1le the busing flush.) Install a W straight btl tnto your router, and set the plung depth to Jllow for the jig thtckneu. At each hole in the templilte, tnsert the gUide bushing and plunge-cut a hole Then movt> to the next hole and repe.1t urHtl you're finished. To sec:- '' free vtdt>o on using this template to drtll shelf-support holes, visit woodm g z n com sh llho s.

For precision mounting, photocopy router base
Mounting jtgs or subbases onto a router, like the o11e shown 1n Shop Tip 87, requires prccl\e mounting holes. Make that job easter by photocopymg the router b<He and using the copy to mark and drill mounting holes Check the copy s1.ze clg.11nst the base size tn case th~ copter ~ off slightly, and reduce or enlarge It a~ needed. If you have a comput r scanner, you also Ciln scan the base and fle the scan ror ruture prtnting


Spacers divide raised panel cuts
Routing raised panel edge~ in one pass produce~ tear-out and it's risky. Spacers taped to a router-table fence let you rout gradually without constant adjustments. First mount a panel-ra1sing b1t onto a table mounted router set to 1ts lowest speed. Test-cut scrdp the thickness or the panels to set the fmal profile. Then make eight ~p.1cers from W or ~6 plywood, .md double-Idee tape four on e<~ch ~ide of the router-table fence Rout all four edges of each panel, startmg w1th the end~; then use a putty knife to pry off a spacer trom each s1de, as shown below. Repeat for each panel, removing pa1rs of spacers unt1l the panel rides ,lgamst the rene<' on the I mal pass.

SHOPnP 100
Joint boards the easy way on a router table
No jointer? No problem. Pl..1stic ldmin.lte clamped to the outfeed side of your router-table fence works the same a~ the outfeed table on a jointer. Cut lammate to fit the left s1de of the fence; then sand a chamfer on the edge nearest the b1t to avo1d snagging your workpiece Usc a straightedge to 1.1djust th<' fence. The laminate should be flush with the cutting edge of your Installed flush -trim b1t r.tised to cut the full width of the workpiece edge. Start the pass by pressing the workp1ece against the right half of the fence; then slide 1t from nght to left. As it clears the bit, \hlfl pressure to your left hand to preH the tnmmed portion agaimt the lam1nate to fimsh with the cut, which tnms about each pass. Laminate thickness must equal the depth of the cut.


Remove edge-banding with a router
Balancmg a routN w1th a flush tnm b1t along a workpi<'Ce edge as you remove excess iron on edge banding can ruin a shelf w1th the slightest tip. But a rou ter with " 1 4 straight bit and this jig trims edg1ng without risking gouges. To milke th1~ 1'9 cut an 8" square ba~e from Wthlck mediumdensity f1berboard (MDF) or plywood . Then cut a Y.. deep kerf centered on the bottom. From 4'" plywood or MDF, cut a 3 1 ~t.x 8 " ft'nce, and glue it to the base flush with the kerf, as shown at near right. Using a W plywood to st.lbiiiLe the base, drill a V.. centered hole w1th a Forstner b1t. Next, imert a y. straight bit in your router. W1th the btl center d in the hole (and the kerf), mount the router to the jig w1th doubl faced tape. Then adjust the b1t dt!pth so the tip come$ to JUSt below the bottom \urface of the bdse. lest the ~etting on plywood scrap to make certain the bit doesn't ledve score marks on the ~urface. To trim edge-banding, clamp the workpiece into position, a~ ~hown bt>low nght. Push the jig base firmly dQdimt tht" workp1 ce surface and edge w1th the surplus edge-bandmg insid the kerf. Turn on the router, slide the j1g along the banded edge, and trim off the


overhanging edge banding Edge banding still proud of the surface can be sanded away with 180-grit abrasive. The hedt from the splnnmg bit mdy redctlv.tte some of the edge-banding adhesive, caus1ng it to suck to the bit . Remove it immediately with a blade and bt cleaner, ~uch as Emp1re Blade Saver (866-7005823 or


lestlver Pro)ecta ond Shop Tips 2011

Find your optimum speed for safe, clean cuts
Because bit diameter largely determines the best router speed, you can chart some general guidelines, as shown at right. If your router's speed dial features only single numbers or letters with no obvious reference to speed, use the following technique to find the opttmum speeds for your router bits Chuck a bit and slowly ramp up the speed until the router begins to vibrate, then back tt off until the vtbratton disappears. Make note of that selling tn the third column of the chart at r~ght for future use with that particular bit. Use this as your starting point; then ftnetune the speed based on the router or materials you're working wtth. When routing cherry and hard maple, slow the bit speed even more for these burn. prone species. Mdke practice cuts In scrap stock, especially when using an unfamiliar bit, router, or material. When routing htghly ftgured wood, slow the speed a httle more to avoid tearing out wild grain. Maintain the same approximate feed rate Varytng the feed rate could affect the cut quality, just as if you had increased or decreased the bit speed. When routing in trapped cuts (dadoes, mortises, or dovetails, for example), slower speeds help reduce burning, parttculdrly when the bit can't expel the chips edstly Try to finish each task with a light cut Clu" or less) to get the best cut quality, just tn case your speed proves a little too fast or slow.
Use t his reference chart as a st arting poin t t o f ind the best speed for the specific bit and task you're working on. If your router's speed dial does not Indicate actual rpm, wrltt the corresponding dial marking under H My rou ter" next to the speed you want. Keep a chart for each router.

Bit d iam et er up to t

M ax. speed
X l ,OOOrpm

My router

16 18


12- 14
10- 12

3~ or larger

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Safely rout on a narrow edge
Here's a simple way to support your router when machintng the edge of a pc:Ht tn an assembly. Clamp a 1W-wtde scrap (a 2x2 works grecll) of the needed length to the part, flush wtth the edge, as shown. The scrap provtdes addtttonal support for the router base to ride on, allowtng you to keep the router stable and make tl straight cut.

Router house defeats dust problems

After mounttng my router tn the extension of my tdblesaw, I needed a dust-collectiOn solutiOn that allows easy o1ccess to the router for bit-height adjustments. The box shown here encapsulates the router and allows the dust collector to create the necessary vacuum pressure to work well. I used a 3" 0.0. (outstde dia.) PVC toilet flange to create the dust-collection connection. A hinge secures one end of the housing, and a set of hooks and eyes holds the box open for router access or closed for operation .
Steve Conway, Oakdale, M1nn.


Joint boards for gap-free edge-gluing
No matter how stratght a board looks in the home center, t's likely not straight enough to edgeglue without leaving unsightly gaps that weaken the glue joint. To make those <>dges true as can be, turn the other edge of your newly built saw gude (Shop Tip 110} tnto a router guide Then straighten or "joint," boards using d W-dlameter straight bit or spiral bit. (Remember to use the same bt diameter for future edg,ng.} With the straight btl mstalled, measure from the edge of the bit to the edge of the router base. Aiong the length of the guide's base, mark a hne that dtstance from the fence Saw off the excess base to wtthtn ~ of the waste side of the line Adjust the router-btl depth to cut Just deeper than the thickness of the base [Photo A]. Then, clamp the guide to the sawhorses to keep the guide from shtfttng. While holding the router b.l~e tight against the fence, rout the rough edge smooth Label the router-guide side wtth the router used (if you have more than one}, and a reminder arrow showtng the correct router travel dtrection [Photo B)

To joint a board for a glue-up, place the guide-base edges near the edge of your workpiece, leavtng a stnp about ~. wide to be routed straight Clamp the gutde tn position, and rout the board [Photo C If your tablesaw can handle the sre workpiece you're JOinting, place the routed edge against your tablesaw fence, and cut d straight dnd parallel edge on the opposite side. Otherwise, move and reclamp the guide to routthdt edge, as you dtd the oppostte one You also can use this technique to remove rounded factory edges from 2x4s.


Include a router direction remlnct.r




Solve sticky router problems
When you're swapping between fixed and plunge bases on a multi-base router kit, fine sawdust (espectally from MDF} packed in the motor's spiral grooves may make t dfhcult to remove the motor from the plunge base. Start by trytng to remove as much dust ;.u poutble us1ng compressed atr. An aerosol penetrating 011 or WD40 also mo1y loosen up the jam, although you'll later have to remove all lubricant from the motor housing and base to ,woid attracting mor<" contaminants Another possibl<" cau\e for this type of jam: Transferring the motor betW<"<"n bases may have <~ccidentally nicked the motor housing, raising a burr that keeps the housing from turning Inside the base. If you spot d sm.111 nick or raised silver of metal, carefully remove 1 t with a ftne mill ftle or a p ece of SJndpaper. Whtle you're alit, check for other posstble contaminants that m.'ly cause the housng to stick 1n tts base. These include errant dabs of glue on the motor housing or wood chips in the grooves.


athr Projects and I hop npt 2011

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Rout perfect-fit dadoes first time, every time

Rout dadoe~ of any wtdth using may be the world's simplest jig. It works with any walght btl that is slightly narrower thJn the thickness of your stock. From n or ''' MOF, cut two 1'9 top pieces the same siLe, as shown .ll fight. Make both about 6' longer than the path of your dadoes Then, cut two cleats 2" wide and as long as the w1dth of the top piece~ . Clue a cleat to the undersde of each top piece, making each cleat dead on perpendicular to the long edge. Now, you're re.tdy to dado. the left edge of where you'll dado the workpiece. Then, clamp one 1'9 1n place so the nght edge of the jig touclws tlw dado mark and the cleat preH'S .lgamt the workpiece edge Butt the ftntsh-sandcd p<Jrt you'll imert tnto the d.ldo ag.,lnst the right edge of the Jg, and shde the rightd<~do jig up <19a1mt the part. Clamp the right-dado jig tn place a'ld hft off the part ~tween the jig~ [Photo A) To dado the worttpi ce, install a W diametN pattern b1t (for dadoes wider than W) weth a top-mounted beanng and a roughly %~ cutting depth (See Tip 108.) Milke the bit height the depth of your d<~do plus the thickness of the jig Press the bit agaln~t the edge of one Jig JUSt off the workpiece, and turn on your router. Kcepeng the bit agaenst the jtg, work from left to right until you reach the oppostte sid of the workpiece. Then, repeat agamst the oppos1te jtg until you have a full w tdth dJdo. To make a stopped dado, first cut a third 2"-wide strip that's twtce as long as the wtdth of the top pieces ,., to use as .1 stop M.trk the 20 or / ' workpiece where you dl'\trtd lrngth want the dado to end, then position your jigs, as before. Wtth the dado bit just above the workpiece as the base

rests on tt e Jigs, position th router \O the bt JUSt touches the stop line. Usng double-filced tape, attach the stop to one of the jigs so the stop is perpen dicular to the long edge of the jig and h<~lts the router at the stop mJrk [Photo B) Set the cuttmg depth, and rout to the stopblock. Repeat as needed to complete the dado [Photo C).



Start your router-bit collection with these essentials
Your router-btl Investment can add up rast, but it pay~ to inve~t In top qu.1hty when buymg bets you I use fr quently. Whenever poss1ble, buy b1b Wtth sturdy VJ shanks . Here's what to include in a starter ~et: 0 W round-over with a bottom bearing. (It's mounted at the end opposte the .\hank.) 8 'h"dtam tcr pattern bit wtth a 1"-long cutteng edge and a topmounted b anng. 0 W round-over wtth a beanng 0 Yz"dtamNer ~traight bit wtth a 1"-long cutting edge Once you ~tep up to a router table, you'll want a S1m1lar bet that includes a bottom beanng (complements pattern bit). 0 ..s chamf btt with beanng. 0 R11bbeling b1t k1t with dlfferent\llC guide beMings to adJUSt the depth of cut.
woodmogozlne com


It's great to have a shop full of proquality tools, but you don't need them to craft many of the projects featured in this publication. On these pages, we'll show you how to accurately cut, drill. joint, and g lue up parts using inexpensive tools and accessories. For starters. we're going to assume you have at least some common hand tools and measuring devices, and these essential power tools: a benchtop tablesaw, portable circular saw, jigsaw, cordless or electric drill. and random-orbit sander. You'll also need a few inexpensive pipe clamps and budget-priced accessories, such as a $14 drill guide. Now. let's see how much you can do with so few tools.

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Add teeth to your eire saw
Most people buy a ctrcular saw for remodeling and construction work, not to make clecln, splinter-free cuts for woodworking. If your circular ~aw produces too much tear-out, replace the originc1l 24-tooth blade w ith a 40 tooth aftermarket blade.


l eatIYer ProJec ts and Shop Tlpa 2011

Saw arrow-straight lines with a circular saw

Large sheet good:., \.JCh .u plywood or medium-dens1ty f1berboard (MOF}, Me too unwu:!ldy to cut on a bcnchtop saw. By m.1k1ng arl 8' straightedge, how 11er, you can cut sheet goods precisely using only a circular \c1W You need a stra1ght edge to make a straightedge, so either rough -cut a single plywood sheet m half or stagger two sheets so the top sheet's factory edge acts a) a straightedge for ripping a 7' -wide stnp off the lower sheet (Photo A). Then, repos1tlon the top st e<.t's factory edge to np another stnp roughly 16" wide off the bottom sheet. With the circular snw unplugged, measure from the blade to the edge of the saw b.ue beneath the saw's motor. Add up to 1" to that dimem1on and then screw the 7"-wide stnp onto the l6"w1de lower strip that distanct' from one edqc. Place the s<lW bot\e hrrnly <~ga1nst the edge of the upper stnp (the fence) .md cut dW"'f the surplus on tlw lower stnp (the b.J\e) [Photo t )teady to keep the B). Support the wtlstl:' p1ec.c, or have a h('lper hold 1 ~w from binding. Ldbcl the saw side of the strcJ1ghtedge (You can turn the other s1d into a router gwdc- morc on that 1n the next section.) If you have more th.m one mcular ww, wnte on the straightedge the ~1w make and mod I so you'll ,11w,1ys h. we protection ,,gainst t!.'.lr-out. To cut a proJect p.ut, cl.1mp the edge of the base onto the pencil marks defining yol.r cutline. Then, run the SilWbase edge ag.Mst the upper stnp (Photo C) to guide the cut.

, - F ence

r. ...

Adjust blade depth to your stock thickness

We u\Cd sawhorses that could be topp-d ..v1th sacnflda12x4\ (see Sources, page 105) for cutt1 n9 and routing sheet good~. If you're us1ng other type$ of sawhorses, .m.lCh replaceJble 2x4 top~ w1th f.Hteners placed well clear of the saw blade. Set the blade or b1t to cut no more th.m ~& into the ,,,crificial 2x4s.

Watch FREE videos on shop technique~ at


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Make your Jigsaw a curve-cuHing specialist
You can't make a good cut with a cheap, down-and-d~rty Jigsaw, regardless of biJde style or quality. A good tool features guide rollers behind the blade to provide support and keep it from deflecting. Some Bosch Jigsaws (see bt'low) also include preci~ion control gudes that contain the bldde along both sides A lock-on button, ~.,wdust blower, variable-speed motor, ond straight/ orbital cutting options also help deliver a quality cut when matched with the workpiece thickneu and matenal (The I s~ orb1tal cutting act1 0n, the cleaner Gutde roller the cut.) Still one more featur(' is an anu splinter Insert in the bascpl.1te, servmg a~ a zero-clearance ) Tapered Plunge Up Up Tehank Uehonk

Se lect the corre ct bla d e

Wtltn sdect1 ng blades, choose one based on the material you intend to cut, 1ts thickness, and the type of cut The teeth per inch (tpi) of a wood or plywood jigsaw blade ranges from 6 tpl (coarse) to 20 tpl (fine), with 6 tpl bi.Jdes being fast and aggressive. Ground, close-set teeth yit>ld cle.m, prcmion cuts, wh1le narrow blades excel at turning sharp corners. As the nam s imply, rely on plunge and tap red-tip blades for s.pecif1c Unks. Exp ctto tmd two style) of upperbl~de ends: T-shank and U-shank. This describt's the part that inserts into the tool . fhe T-shank blades hold more scwrely In jigsaws accept them .

(D6tpl for fast, coarse cuts;(

Be st bla de choices

10 tpl for straight, nne cuts;@)1o tpl reverse-tooth for strAight, sphnter free cuts on the surface where the blade exits the workpiece; @ progressive-tooth w1th graduat1ng tpl for fast, clean cuts 1 n thick and thin materlal;~12 tpl for narrow, curv~ cuts In woods;@ 20 tpl for fine, narrow curved cuts in woods and plastics.

SHOPnP 113
Troubleshooting problems with Jigsaw cuts
Blade deflection e nd sew marks . Deflection occun when the blade bends o the nght or left of the cuthne (Photo A], leav1ng an unsquare edge and, 1n severe cases, ruining the workpiece Saw marks leavt> rough edges. Choosmg the right tool and blade are p.~rl of the solution, as well as using a straightedge to guide the saw along lor straight cuts. When cutting curves, stay Yl6 " ouhlde the culline. Clean up curved cuts with a drill-press-mounted sanding drum (concave cuts) or with a d1sc sander (convex cuts). Or, make .l hardboard template of the cut edge and use 1t, along w1th a router and flush-trim bit, to true the edge. Splinte ring end t ear-out . Score and/or tape cuthnes, employ backing matt>nals, and use a zero-clearance subbase or anti-splinter insert. Kickback Culpnts here: b.ndmg due to a l.lck of stock support, wrong blade speed and feed rate, t1 bent blade, or a hung up cord. M.lke practice cuts In scrap to dclt>rmlne the Ideal blade speed .1nd feed rate Ro ugh fi eld cuts. Simple solutions apply when you cut out .m opening in the middle of J workpiece. For fast plunge cuts, insert a plunge tip blade into the jigsaw, turn on the tool, and slowly tit the blade 1 nto the waste side of the workpiece [Photo 8) For more precision, dnll blade)tart holes at the opn1ng corners to accommodate the jigsaw blade. Next, clamp a straightedge into place, imertthe blade mto a hole, and begin cutting [Photo C).


...tlvr ''ojecta and Shop Tlpa 2011

Bore perpendicular holes without a drill press
Portable drills can't match the accuracy of a dnll press for makng perpendicular holes, but you ciln come close usng ether of these techniques A doweling 119 (Photo A) {see Sources bottom) can double as a dnll guide by ~t.utlng a hole us1ng the appropriate guide bushng Then, gUidt'd by the shallow starter hole, drill through the workpiece You also can drill more accurately a1ded by c1 S14 Jg (Phot o B). (See Sources.) You're limited to bits the \arne diameters as the six bushings provided, but that's more select1on than w1th the dow ltng jig Should you step up to a drill press someday, you still can use th1s Jig to dnll mto spheres, the sides of dowels, or a workpiece edge

Get the (brad) point
Nothing frustrates like watchmg a tw1st bll scoot away from the carefully m<~rked location where you meant to dnll a hole. With a brad-pomt bit, however, the tip stays planted where you want 1l. Start with a bJsic set, and save them just for woodworkmg
TWist bit


Hone your cornering abilities
AnothN easy-to-make jg lets you rout Identical rounded corners of any dlc.~meter time after time. Mc.~ke the jig from MDF or plywood ,Jbout 6 8" square On one corner of the square, use a compass to draw ., quarter wcle the radius you want W1th ., JIQSdW, cut w1th1n 1 6 of the compass pencil mark without crossing 1t Use a disc sander or hardwood sand1ng block to \rnooth the curve down to the pencil mark. Then attach ,1 p.1ir of cleats to the edges c.ldJoining the curve, keeping the clt'.lts atlea)t 1ft away from where the curve start\ To start, press the 1g cleats dgdmst the workpiece corner, (Photo A), and trace the curve Jigsaw to w1thm of your pencil line [Photo B]. Now, turn your jig into a router 3 templ11te, clamping it to the workpiece so your router c.m move freely

1 2

around the corner. AdJU\t a 1"-long pattern bit to make the top mounted beanng nde .1gamst the 11g atop the workpiece [Photo C) Then, rout left to right to remove the rough jigsawn edge Be sure to l.,bt'IJI9S for future use


Slwhon I. StOf~ Xl. abou1 S2J. The lehigh Group, 60().523-9382 or Doweling Jig Model G1874, S321rom Grizzly lnduurlal. eoo. S23 4717 gu . No 140876w\th M.", "\\." ".fl.", and h"bushingnnd Ctnt ng pin ~boot SIS Woodc:rlft.800-22S 11530f wood( Top ,ountll'ld bMrlnt pttttrn bll.S.tt16509wtr 1 'h"dmeterby ~cut ling heoght abou1 S19. MLCS. 800 Sll 9298 or mlc~woodworklng com; 1 Wl 1007 0 w1th a Wdl.:lmeter by YM" cutting helght,lbout $14, Wood line, 800 472 6950 or

woodmogoz1 ne c om


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Plot your course
Before you cut the flr~t bo .Hd for a project, rcv1ew the plam, line up ,lll the materials and ~upplies, and determine what tools and equip ment you'll need. Think 1bout the steps Involved .1nd how you'll t~ccompllsh them. Then jot down a brief ll~t outlining the order for accomplishing the sttp~. which you can then use as a checklist. You may alter your work plan as the project progresses, but working from a hst of t>verything you need to .~ecomplish emurcs tiMl you don't mi\~ somt'thing crucicll

Make notes, not memories
When a pro,~ct sprc,lds across several shop scss1ons, break the work at 1 logical point whenever you stop. Complete the step you're working on, for Instance, instead of stopping m the middle of an opNation . Then, wnte notts on the plans and mMk pt~rls so you can eas1ly determine where you left off You may think you'll remember whtorc you stopped and you need to do next when you return to the project, but human nature say) you won't, especially 1f the br 'lk lasts longer than you plan
To help keep your shop project on track, check off parts on a cutting list as you make them. Then jot down notes as you work through the sttps.

--- - - -



SHOPnP 119
Clamp and sand panels flat
Purch.Hed lumber vary enough In thickness to show "step)" on an edge glued panel. f orturMefy mo~t panels need only om good" ftlCe. To keep atle.1~l one surface fl,ll, edge-glue pcliH.'I pi<'C<'\ w1th the appearance side down Md pressed firmly agt~inst the c1.1mp b.m or pipes as you apply clamping pressure. (S c Sho p Tip 120 ) Cover the clamp bars or p1pe~ with painter's tap where the pieces w1ll rest. That prevcnh the met.ll from discolormg tlw wood cllld Simplifies removing ghH

Flat panels on round pipe
You can't be too rich, too attract1vt, or have too mnny cl11mps, but you can have too vaned an as\Ortment of clamps. So when you buy pipt' clamps, slick to one model. ldenuc,ll clamps support il glue-up on a flat plane better liMn c1 miX Of clamp~ w1th bar~ at varied heights.


Press the piece~ down onto the clamps as you tighten them leave the glue-up damped for an hour, then remove the clamps wh1le the squeeze-out remams soft enough to scrape off. Allow the glue-up to dry overnight. ~orking only on U1e dppeMJncc \Ide, use a r,mdom orbit 'ander w1th 80 or 100 gnl dbr..t\lvt' to

level the JOint hnes, as shown above. Avoid crentmg a trough in the surface above t'llch jo111t by contmually moving the hlnder nnd smoothing the entire panel t'venly.


l estlver ProJects and Shop Tlps 2011

Few thing~ waste as much shop time or raM .mtatton levels a~ h1gh .u m1splclcmg the tool you need (or the one you 1u~t laid down) 1n the clutter on your bench And stumbling ovN ~craps on the floor as you search just mc~ke~ m<~tters worse. Everything you need to know about keepmg your work are.l efficient stems from le~sons your mom taught.

e Clear scraps, chips, and sawdust off your workbench and tool tables often e Toss tra~h mto ,, c.1n, not on the floor Put away tools you've ftnlshed ustng. e Set mach1ned p<uts aside so you won't
mistake them for raw stock or scraps.
This uncluttered workbench allows plenty of space for a panel glue up. A tidy work area Is especially Important In a smaller shop.

Round up safety gear

Safety equipmE'nt only protects you 11 you use It, ,md you're more likely to use 1t1f il's easy to find. So keep your personal protect1ve equipment in a des1gnated, Vl'lble, and easy to Mce:.~ place, perhaps near the entrancE' to your shop. KeE'p a selection of push stick\, pushblocks, and feathE'fboards near each machine, where they're needed regularly. Make safety a part of your setup routine. Before you st.lrt a mJchme, position featherboards, locate pushsticks, put1n e<lrplugs, don your s<~fc:ty glasses, Jnd if necenary, f1nd a snug fitting dust mask or respirator. Then check everything one last t1me before m king the final cut.

Accessories such as t his pushstlck and featherboard contribute to accuracy and efficiency, as well as safety.




- -


- - - - -

SHOPnP 123
Start with blue-chip stock
pl<~ne, and ~clw stock true and ~quare you stclrtlaymg out and cutting p.Ht s. Mcc~sure to make sure bo.1rds thJt


are supposed to be the same th1ckness

really Me, and pltme at one time clll stock that w1ll be a p<~rllcular thiCknes~ . When you mill stock, pr(part" some extra to test tool ~etups, joinery and finishes Stack

prep.~rrd stock where it will be safe from dJmagc See Resource~ 2 3, and 10 on pnge 109 for more clct,lils on pr<'paring ~tock.

Clamp on aluminum straightedge

This board obviously needs work before It s ready to use. Cutting it Into shorter lengths minimizes waste. Beg1n w1th one malghtedge on every workpiece. Then rip the opposite edge paratlel1nd squ1rt t he ends. Jointing Is essential for stock preparat ion. A router fills the bill If you don't have a jointer (see Resource 3 on pogr 109).



Make your mark

As you make project pMts, putldentfying m.uks on them. If you'r~ working from plans, label the parts w1th the part letters or numbers from the plan; otherwise use a descriptive name. MJrk out oversize blanks to show which parts they'll yield. Label blanks to 1ndcate part position and onentation, too. S1mple alignment marks can prevent gluing .1 piece In backward or in the wrong plilce. L,,b<'ls like "top edge" or "back" eliminate confusion and simpllry assembly.

Label parts for position and orientation as you make them. Chalk-m arks wipe off easily and don' t mar the surf ace.

When you glut up several panels, mark each with the time you clamp It so you can keep track of the curing time.

- - -

SHOPTIP 126, 121 & 128

Measure, measure, cut
The oldest saw In woodworking (yeah, we just had to \'Ythat) still holds true: Measure twice, cut once. To max1mlze accuracy in those



- - -

mca~u rcmcnts, get Into ht1b1ts like these: e U\c the same tape or rule throughout a proJeCt for consistency. e M~asurc from the same edge or other

reference surft~cc on matching parts. e Milkc precise marks with a sharp penc1l or, better yet, a marking knife (item I# 12951 ,,bout S20; rockier com)

Sometimes It's better not t o measure. To determine the length of this trim piece, hold It In position and mark the cut precisely.

Instead of laying out repeilt measurements, lay them out once on a template or story stick for accurate transfer to th e parts

Make surt your tape or rule sits flush with the edge when measuring. This hook rule proves more accurate than a tape's slldng hook.

SHOPTIP 129, 130 & 131

Measure, cut, cut, cut...
Carry out repetitiVe operations cutting parts to the same dimension, dnlling equally spaced holes, or routmg rabbets, for instance-more comistently, quickly, and easily w1th stopblocks and jigs. You can buy commerc1al i9\ that simplify mllny operations, but some or the most valuable ones in your shop will be the ones you create yourself for a specif1c job. Make 1t a habit to look for situations where a quickly made jig-something as simple as a scrap of wood clamped to a miter g<IUge will save you from repeated mt'asunng and marking Make permanent jigs for jobs you do often, ~uch a~ miter-cutting sde~ for identical frames. Be sure to label the jig so you don't accidentally toss it.

Set a stopblock accur~tely by measuring from a kerf cut through the miter gauge extension to the block.

A simple template saves layout time and ensures accuracy for such jobs as drilling screw holes for hardware.

Thi s shop made Jig sets both the angle and length for sanding matching leg bevels, enabling quick and accurate work.


leat-her Project ond Shop Tlpa 2011

Get the most from your time
Set up tools, 11gs, and equipment for every oper.lllon carefully and precisely, lock the adjustments, and test every setup on scrapwood before machining project parts. d repeatmg setups, rtp all SclmeTo avo1 wldth parts at once, for Instance, Instead of resetting the rip fence several time~. When you interrupt a proJect and leave a setup to use later, write "Don't Change Setup" on a sheet of paper and stick it on the tooL Also JOt down the setup specifications and which part you're making with 11. Telke a digital photo of a setup you might reuse, print it, and add note~ .





urctips smpt' s

S. SIMPLE SHOP JIGS Once you've hous~ a dado stack on your tablesaw, you can cut a variety of rabbet widths by simply moving the fence.


6. SHARPENING Gtt Sharp, Stay Sharp a~illable at 1r m getshn p S 7. MEASURING Atr , Nble Accuracy" avalable at woe Kcuracy S 8. WORKSHOP JIGS 1 "four Tcu lac 11"9 Tables.w Jigs

Dry-assemble everything
Before gluing, assemble the parts wthout glue to ensure correct f1t C1ve each pclrt a fmalimpection dS you work, and take note of the order of as~embly to avoid glue-up goof-ups. Finally, clamp the dry assembly together. This dssembly rehearsal helps you determine which clamps to ust' and the best order to apply them It also c.1n help you identify Situations where you m1ght need a helper or temporary support. And clfter undoing the dry-clamped assembly, the clamps are preset for the recll job, further minimizing any glue-up pan1c

tb a

com/TSi s S
mg S

9. SHOP OIIGANitAnON 17 Ways to Get Organirrd" ava,lable at


"6 Strps to P<.'rfect Stock" <IVatlabll' 111 1 rrp S

H . MARKING "M,t , You ava.l.lble at woodrru~gaz n com/rna ldng S IS download lhn 1rtldt lor 1 StNII I )

Dry u sembly before gluin g this project revealed the need for a temporary cleat to support on e end o f th e shelf.

- - - - - - - - -

Don't settle for dull
The Importance of sharp tools almost goes wtthout say1ng. To make clean, accuratr cuts, you need sharp tool ~ . Carbide-tip >.lW bl.lde\ clnd bitS stay sharp longer steel ones, but except for touching up router b1ts, you can't shilrpen them yourself When they need sharpening, let a profess1onal do 1t. You can sharpen most hand tools, such as chisel~ and planes, yourself. Hardened teeth on today's h<tnds.1ws and pull saws require grindtng, another job for a pro sharpener Some pull saws and Japanese handsaws reature replaceable blades, It's orten cheJper to replace the blade than to have 1t sharpened

You can sharpen chisels and plane Irons on a wheel (left) or flat stone (right). Always use a guide to maintain the correct bevel. Sharp ening on a w heel results In a hollow ground edge.

Touch up router bit s b etween sharpenlngs by h onin g tht fl at back of each cutter blade with a diamond file.


Before building projects with truly square corners you're proud of. you need the proper tools and setups. Use these tips in the shop to get 1t right the first time.

SHOPTIPS 135- 139

Square projects start with dead-on-accurate tools
In your shop, square~ muu be square, meJ~urmg 1nwum!!nts must be! t~ccur.ttl!, .lnd power tools muH bt' set to machme precisely. But preclst' tooh by themselves don't gu<~rcJnt('l" \qu.ue assemblies, good techniqul'\ a role, too. To earn the ropes, w w nt to craftsman Ben Sve<~ own r of Falls Mrllwork in Kelley, Iowa. Ben hcls more than three decades under lm b It as a professional woodworker. Ben learned from ellperience how to ;svo1d the frustratrom of unsquare corners "Your work is only gomg to be as accurate as the tools you use," he says. "Once mJchlnes are set up square, then you don't heM! to spend a lot of efforttryrng to compens te II the way through a proj c1 for a JO nt that's not square." B n offers the following tool 11p\ to 1mprove accuracy.

e Not all squares are reliable. Never

trust any tool right out of the box. Even minor bumps or dings during packagrng or shtpping could alter the tool's accuracy Alw11ys check 11 and sN 11 up w1th squ.ues, rules, and cahptr\ that you know to be .1ccurate.

e Drafting squares are Invaluable.

Use draftmg squares-which prove reliably accurate- to check your woodworking squares, as shown 1n Photo A. You m1ght be surprised to d1scovcr thllt your square's not truly square. Sec Drawings 1 and 2 for methods to che-ck flat squares and, if necessary, correct your framing squ.ue.

Don't bother trying to correct a try square, or any fixed square wrth a handle thicker than Its blade. lnsttad, tither send your square back to the manufacturer for repair or buy a new one that tests square.

. .


Keep several plastic drafting squares, Including a 12" model for maximum surface contact, In your shop to check tools.


. .ll lver 'rotecta ond Shop Tips 2011

Rely on an ICcurate steel rule to check your measuring tape. This tape measured hl" longer than the rule at the 12" mark.

e Take best shop tools to the store.

Find an ac:c:urate standard. Use a steel rule for measurements whenever possible. The rule lies flat, and most have markings in four different increments O-il", ~e, /11", and ~,;.") for increasmg precision. How do you know your steel rule is accurate? For starters, don't skimp on th1s tool. Buy a 12 steel rule from a trusted company (Starrett or lncra, for example) known for accurate toob, and use that as your benchmark w1th which to check all other measuring tools Or, buy an Mchttect's scale at an art or draft1ng supply store and use that to check all your rules.

Check your square's accuracy by comparing drawn lines made from opposing sides of the same reference point .

To correct a framing ~uare that Is not ~quare, dimple It wtth a center punch and hammer.

Correct any flat square by laying It on a flat surface and striking Its Intersection wtth a hammer and center punch.

Take your draftmg square and accurate steel rule to the store and check new squares and measuring tapes for accuracy before buying To test the tape for outside measurements, hook it on the end of your steel rule and compare the two atlhe 12" mark, as shown in Photo B. For lnstde accuracy, just push the front of the hook agamst a rigid surface and do the same w1th the rule, holding it alongside the tape. Chec:k blade squareness. W tth an accurate square, adjust your tablesaw blade so It culS perpendicular to your tabletop To do this, Ben removes the throat plate, raises the blade to full height, and positions his square for maximum contact with the table surface, as shown in Photo c Find 90. Regardless of what tool you use for crossculting (mitersaw, radial-arm saw, or sliding table on a tablesaw), the blade and fence must be exactly 90 to each other. Ben does all his crosscutting wtth his radial-arm saw Although he never moves it from 90 , Ben still checks it regularly, as shown in Photo 0 . He squares it to the table vertically and horizontally, both at the fence and at its farthest reach.

Check the blade's squareness from the side wth the narrowest throat opening. Place the square against the blade's body, not Its teeth.

With t he saw unplugged and the blade guard removed, check your saw for square. Never use the saw wtth the guard off.


A large, flat assembly table can be your best tool
To assemble and clamp your projects square, you need a reliably flat sur face to work on, as shown at right This assembly table mtght be separate from your workbench, which can take abuse from tools and accessones. Ben built his assembly table from a 4x8' sheet of H4 particl board, edged with 2" -wide hardwood attached with 20 biscuits, as shown in the drawmg below. He then glued plastiC lamtnate to the top because it resists fmishes and glue better than a porous wood surface. "For putting togNher cabinet s, a flat assembly surface Is crucial," Ben says "Otherwise, it's hard to gel your cabinet square." Having a fi.H surface .:~lso allows you to clamp a glue-up to the t.:~ble. enabling three-dimensional squaring. Another tp: Apply a ~eater finish such as polyurethane to .:111 wood surfaces, includtng the top's underside, to resist moisture absorption that can cause your table's flat surface to warp over ttme.

A long malghtedge reveals any low areas on your assembly table. Shim the top from below If gaps exceed ~ The hardwood frame provides a more rigid, durable urface than the particleboard for clamping workplaces to the table

Measuring diagonals still gets the job done
Admtttedly an old standard 1 n woodworking, comparing the diagonal dlmemtom of a rectangular case contlnut's to be a reliable method for squanng projects provtdt'd oppostng Stdes have been cut to the same length Don't rely on a framing square to check corners, however, you can get an tnaccurJte retld,ng because the assembly clamps can bow the ~des ~lightly. (This bow wtll revert once you remove the clamps.} To check diagonals, glue and clamp your assembly as needed. Then, using tl mea~unng tape, compare the diagonal measurements across opposing corne r~. I look the tope onto the outside corner and read the mct~surement from the outside of the corner nearest you Your pro,eclts square if the measurements are equal. If they're not equal, correct them by clampmg across the longer diagonal, as shown at right. Mea\ure from the instde of the corners if your clamp is tn the way. Determine the midpotnt between the two measurements, and tighten the clamp unttl both read the same.
You've squared the case when the diagonal measurements read the same. Attach the back panel to help hold tht case square.


. .tIYr ''oj.cta and Shop Tlpa 2011

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