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Harvest to Heat
Cooking with Americas Best Chefs, Farmers, and Artisans
Darryl Estrine and Kelly Kochendorfer
A new generation of cookbook one that celebrates the crucial relationship between chefs, farmers, and artisans.
ALICE WATERS
Harvest to Heat celebrates over 100 chefs and farmers who are changing the way we think about food. Enjoy behind-the-scenes stories of the local growers and artisans who produce the fresh ingredients featured in the signature dishes of famous American chefs. Includes gorgeous photography and 100 recipes from Thomas Keller, Charlie Trotter, Nancy Silverton, Daniel Boulud, Rick Bayless, Eric Warnstedt, and many others.
Harvest to Heat Hardcover, Product # 071305, $40.00
Appetizers
Ellie Krieger
Lisa Schroeder
with Danielle Centoni
c
volume 3
f or e wor d b y a da m G op n i k
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r e c i p e a dv i s o r
Before you start, read the recipe from beginning to end so there are no surprises. Before actually starting to cook or bake, gather all the necessary ingredients and equipment. Prepare the ingredients according to the directions in the ingredient list (see Watch those modifiers at right for more on this). For determining doneness, always rely first on the recipes sensory descriptor, such as cook until golden brown. Consider any times given in a recipe merely as a guide for when to start checking for doneness.
Unless otherwise noted, assume that: butter is unsalted. eggs are large (about 2 oz. each). flour is unbleached all-purpose (dont sift unless directed to). sugar is white granulated. fresh herbs, greens, and lettuces are washed and dried. garlic, onions, and fresh ginger are peeled.
Watch those modifiers
for the recipe, but what you may not realize is that the placement of these preparation modifiers in the ingredient line is as important as the modifier itself. Take, for example, the following two similar lines that you may see in a recipe ingredient list: 1 cup rice, cooked 1 cup cooked rice The first line is telling you to take 1cup of rice and cook it; the second line is calling for 1 cup of rice that has already been cooked. The difference between the two is about 2 cups of cooked rice, and that can make a big difference in the outcome of a recipe.
A recipe ingredient list contains words such as diced and chopped that tell you how to prepare each ingredient
Copyright 2011 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.
b r e a k fa s t b a s i c s
Cast-Iron Cookware
From sausage to eggs to pancakes, a cast-iron skillet is essential to making great breakfast food. Heres how to care for it.
The allure of cooking in cast iron goes beyond its glossy good looks. Cast iron heats up slowly, but it holds heat well. Because its thick, cast iron heats evenly, without hot spots, which suits it for cooking at high heat. And well-seasoned cast iron is truly stickproof and easy to clean. But cast iron does have a reputation, mostly by those who havent cooked with it, of being finicky. Most problems arise from not seasoning the pan correctly or from not maintaining the finish, both of which are actually easy to do. Heres a primer on how cast iron works and how to care for it to ensure years of pleasurable use.
Season it right New cast-iron pans need to be seasoned with oil to keep foods from sticking. For the initial seasoning, most manufacturers recommend coating the pan with a bit of shortening and baking for an hour or more. Heres how: Heat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, heat your pan on the stovetop until hot. With a thick wad of paper towels, spread 1 to 2 teaspoons lard, bacon grease, or solid vegetable shortening all over the inside and outside of the pan. Apply a very thin coating of fattoo much grease and youll end up with a gummy residue in your pan. Put the pan upside down on the center rack of the oven for 112hours. (Slide a baking sheet or piece of aluminum foil onto the rack beneath the pan to catch any drips.) Turn off the heat and let the pan sit in the oven until cool. The pan wont be deep black right away but will develop a dark patina with regular use. Preserve the patina Once the pan is seasoned, its quite simple to maintain. Some say that washing cast iron destroys the seasoning; these folks prefer to just wipe the pan clean, using coarse salt as an abrasive for cooked-on residue. From our experience, though, thats often not enough. So we wash cast iron with soap and water and immediately towel it dry. Next, set it on a burner on medium heat until the pan is hot and completely dry. While the pan is still hot, use a paper towel to spread a thin coating of vegetable oil on the interior. With this extra attention, cast iron stays perfectly seasoned and dry.
Cast-iron cookware is inexpensive, cooks well, and will last for generations.
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equipment
Juice It Up
The easiest way to get your daily fruit is by drinking it. Heres a look at how to make the freshest juice.
The intense flavor of fresh juice, whether squeezed from a peach for a Bellini or from a lemon for a salad dressing makes a world of difference. The world of equipment to help you get at a fruit or vegetables juice is complex, ranging from onepiece manual reamers to involved electric countertop models. Deciding what to buy depends on how often you need juice, and how much. If you like to drink freshly squeezed juice every day, youll want a different juicing method than if you just need a teaspoonful or so for recipes once in a while. Heres your guide to the different types of juicers and how to buy one that suits your needs.
fruit fact
To get the most juice, soften citrus fruit by pressing down on it with your palm and rolling it back and forth along acountertop. This weakens cell walls and makes it easier to extract the juice.
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B R E A K FA S T D R I N K S
In a small pitcher, stir the pomegranate juice and sugar syrup. Fill each flute about one-third full with the pomegranate mixture. Top with the sparkling wine, dividing it evenly among the flutes. Serve immediately.
sugar syrup
Yields a scant 15cocktails
cup water
masala chai
If you find typical coffeehouse chai overpowering, try this version of the well-known Indian spiced tea. Its judicious use of spices results in a kinder, gentler drink. Yields 3 cups; serves 4
1 Tbs. loose black tea, such as English Breakfast or Darjeeling 6 green cardamom pods, gently crushed 5 whole cloves 1 small cinnamon stick (about 1 inches long) tsp. black peppercorns cup whole milk 2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more to taste
In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute. Let cool and then refrigerate until ready to use.
In a small saucepan, bring 3 cups water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the tea, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and peppercorns. Let steep uncovered for 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Pour through a fine strainer set over a bowl, rinse the saucepan, and pour the tea back into the pan. Add the milk and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add more sugar to taste. Reheat if necessary over low heat, but dont boil. Serve hot.
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Bread Basket
authentic brioche
This classic yeast bread, rich and golden with butter and eggs, is a breakfast staple. Yields 16 three-inch brioches tte
1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached allpurpose flour
1 / 3 cup granulated sugar oz. (4 tsp.) active dry yeast, preferably Red Star brand 1/2 oz. (2 tsp.) table salt, plus a pinch for the eggwash 4 large eggs, at room temperature, plus 2 large eggs and 1 large egg yolk for the egg wash 4 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk, at room temperature 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces, slightly softened; more for the pans
incorporate the butter. Reattach the dough hook and add the remaining butter, a few pieces at a time, mixing on medium-low speed. Once all of the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to medium and mix for 4 minutes. Scrape the dough hook and the sides and bottom of the bowl. Mix again until the dough is smooth, soft, and shiny, about 4 minutes more. Youll hear the dough slap against the sides of the bowl when its ready. (If your kitchen is warm, the dough may seem too loose at this point. Resist the urge to add extra flour, or the brioche may be tough.)
Let the dough rise
bake ahead
Brioches reheat well, so any that are not eaten within a day or two can be reheated in a 325F oven until the outside is crisp, about 7 minutes for small brioches or 15 minutes for large. Wrap cooled brioches well and store at room temperature for up to two days, or freeze for up to five weeks. Thaw, wrapped, at room temperature.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt on low speed until well combined. Add 4 of the eggs and the milk and continue mixing on low speed to combine. As soon as the dough starts to clump together, remove the paddle attachment and attach the dough hook. (There will still be unmixed egg and flour in the bowl.) Mix on medium speed for 2 minutes. Using a plastic dough scraper or strong plastic spatula, scrape the bowl and hook. Continue to mix until the dough is firm and elastic, about 2 minutes more. The dough may stick to the hook at this point, but thats OK. Scrape the dough off the hook again. With the mixer on mediumlow speed, add half of the butter, a few pieces at a time. Scrape down the bowl and dough hook, and remove the dough hook. Give the dough a few kneads by hand in the bowl, repeatedly folding the dough over on itself, to help
Use a plastic dough scraper or a spatula to turn the dough out onto a clean, very lightly floured work surface. The dough will be very moist. Knead it by hand a few times and then form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock. Flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top . Transfer the dough, smooth side up, to a clean large bowl. Cover loosely with plastic and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Let the dough rise again
Use the dough scraper or spatula to turn the dough out, smooth top down, onto a very lightly floured work surface. Again, form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock. Flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top. Transfer the
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1/2 tsp. table salt 1/4 tsp. baking soda FOR THE FILLING 3/4 oz. (11/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted 2 / 3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 11/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground allspice 1/4 tsp. ground cloves 1 cup (4 oz.) chopped pecans
FOR THE GLAZE 21/2 oz. (scant 2 / 3 cup) confectioners sugar 2 to 3 Tbs. cold whole or low-fat milk 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Heat the oven to 400F. Grease the sides and bottom of a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with cooking spray.
Make the dough
In a food processor, combine the cottage cheese, butter milk, sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda and pulse in short bursts just until the dough clumps together (dont overprocess). The dough will be soft and moist. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it with floured hands 4 or 5times until smooth. With a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x15-inch rectangle.
Make the filling
Bake until golden brown and firm to the touch, 20to 28minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for 5minutes. Run a spatula around the inside edge of the pan and remove the springform ring. Transfer the rolls to aserving plate.
Make the glaze
Brush the dough with the melted butter, leaving a 1/2-inch border unbuttered around the edges. In a medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves. Sprinkle the mixture over the buttered area of the dough and pat gently into the surface. Sprinkle the nuts over the sugar mixture. Starting at a long edge, roll up the dough jelly-roll style. Pinch the seam to seal, and leave the ends open. With a sharp knife, cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Set the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared pan; they should fill the pan and touch slightly, but dont worry if there are small gaps.
In a small bowl, mix the confectioners sugar, 2 Tbs. milk, and vanilla to make a smooth glaze. It should have a thick but pourable consistency, so add up to 1 Tbs. more milk if necessary. Drizzle the glaze over the rolls. Let stand for 15minutes and serve.
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hazelnut waffles
The finely ground hazelnuts that go into this batter add a nice nuttiness to the finished waffles. You can top them with maple syrup, but berries and whipped cream (below) will give them a more festive feel. Yields 61/2 cups batter, enough for about 12 standard waffles
3 oz. (2 / 3 cup) hazelnuts, toasted and skinned 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. baking powder
23/4 oz. (2 / 3 cup) cake flour 1/2 tsp. baking soda 3/4 tsp. table salt 23/4 cups buttermilk 1/2 cup vegetable oil 4 large eggs 1 / 3 cup granulated sugar 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray for the waffle iron Warm maple syrup and butter, for serving
With a rotary grater, finely grind the hazelnuts. (Or process the hazelnuts with 2Tbs. of the flour in a food processor until finely ground.) In a large bowl, whisk the ground hazelnuts, all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, baking soda, and table salt until well combined. In another bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil, eggs, sugar, and vanilla until well combined. With a very open whisk or a rubber spatula, lightly stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until just combined (small lumps in the batter are fine). Let the batter rest for at least 20minutes (and up to 2hours in the refrigerator). Cook the waffles according to your waffle iron manufacturers instructions. In a Belgian waffle maker, the waffles have a tender interior; in a standard waffle maker, theyll be crisper.
waffle success
Take center stage People like to watch waffles being made, so dont be shy about cooking the waffles while you and your guests have cocktails or coffee. Keep the waffles warm until its time to eat by spreading themdont stackdirectly on a rack in a 200F oven. Be patient Always let your waffle iron heat up until a few drops of water flicked on the surface sizzle. Dont be tempted to rush batter onto an iron thats not preheated, or you wont get maximum browning and flavor. Stay loose Grease the waffle iron between waffles by applying a light coating of nonstick cooking spray or brushing on a light coating of vegetable oil. Sneak a peek If the ready light or alarm on your waffle maker corresponds to a level of doneness you like, great. If not, dont be afraid to lift the lid after a couple minutes. You can always leave the waffle in longer if its too pale, or crisp it further in the oven.
berry compote
Sweet-tart berries are the perfect complement to the toasted hazelnuts in the waffles. Yields about 3 cups
2 tsp. cornstarch 1 Tbs. fruit brandy or water 0-oz. packages frozen mixed berries 2 1 (or 4heaping cups), thawed, with their juices 1 cup granulated sugar Finely grated zest from 1 lemon
In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the brandy or water. Set aside. Combine the thawed berries and their juices, sugar, lemon zest, allspice, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often until the sugar dissolves. When bubbles appear on the side of the pan, just before the fruit reaches a full boil, quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture. Let the fruit boil for only 1 minute to cook the cornstarch; overcooking will make the fruit disintegrate. Remove from the heat. The compote will thicken further as it cools. Make the compote a day or two ahead and refrigerate until needed. The compote may be served at room temperature or slightly warm.
In a large bowl, whisk the crme frache with the sugar until smooth. In a separate large bowl, whip the cream with an electric hand-held or stand mixer until the cream just barely reaches the firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak when the beater is pulled away, but it shouldnt be grainy). With a rubber spatula, gently fold half of the whipped cream into the crme frache and then gently fold in the remaining half. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve; whisk a few times before serving.
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Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 31/2 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake or white mushrooms), stemmed and thinly sliced 6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, whites and greens separated (2 Tbs. whites, 1/2 cup greens) 9 large eggs, beaten 1 large loaf (about 1 lb.) rustic white bread (like ciabatta), cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves, finely chopped 11/2 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar or lightly chopped Table salt and freshly ground blackpepper
Heat the oven to 200F. In a 10-inch edium skillet, heat 1Tbs. of the oil over m heat. Add the apples and the scallion whites. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples soften and just begin to brown, 5to 8 minutes. Let cool for 10minutes. In a large bowl, combine the apple mixture with the pork, scallion greens, sage, fennel seeds, 1 tsp. salt, and 3/4tsp. pepper. Mix with your hands until well combined, but dont compact the mixture. Gently shape into 16patties, about 3inches in diameter and 3/4inchthick. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, or a grill pan, heat the remaining 2Tbs. oil over medium-low to medium heat. Cook the sausages (in batches so theyre not crowded) until nicely browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Add more oil only if needed after each batch, and adjust the heat to prevent overbrowning.
1/2 lb. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into 1-inch strips 3 cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar (about 8 oz.)
Melt the butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spears start to brown and soften, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and scallion whites and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and cook through, about 2minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for a couple of minutes. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs with the milk and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Spread the bread in a single layer on the bottom of the baking dish. Top with half of the egg mixture and then cover with half of the ham, cheese, and asparagus mixture, and sprinkle with half the scallion greens. Repeat with the remaining egg mixture, ham, cheese, asparagus mixture, and scallions. Cover with plastic, pressing down so the bread is completely submerged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2days before baking. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Let the strata sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Bake until the custard sets and the top browns, about 30minutes. Loosely cover with foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Let cool for 10minutes before cutting.
1 / 3 cup chopped fresh cilantro; whole leaves for garnish 2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice 1 to 11/2 tsp. finely chopped jalapeo 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. toasted coriander seeds, coarsely ground
Kosher salt
In a large bowl, gently mix (dont mash) the avocado, scallion, chopped cilantro, lime juice, jalapeo, and 1/2 tsp. salt. In another medium bowl, mix the oil, coriander, and orange zest. Toss the salmon with the oil mixture. Rub the toasts lightly with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Portion the avocado mixture among the toasts. Pile the salmon strips on top. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and serve immediately so the toast stays crisp.
1/2 tsp. (scant) finely grated orangezest 1 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 11/2-inch-wide strips 8 slices sourdough bread (each 6 inches long and 1/2 inch thick), toasted very crisp 2 medium cloves garlic, halved
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3/4 tsp. ground cumin 1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar 11/2 oz. baby spinach (about 11/2 cups) 1/4 to 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)
Heat the oven to 250F. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and warm in the oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl toss the tomatoes with 1 Tbs. of the lime juice, about 11/2 Tbs. of the cilantro, and a generous pinch of salt. Set aside. If using the pepitas, heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil and the pepitas in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until theyre puffed and some are golden brown, 1to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pepitas to a plate lined with a paper towel. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and toss. Return the pan to medium heat. Add the remaining 1Tbs. olive oil (or, if not using pepitas, heat the 2 Tbs. oil). Add the chipotle, adobo sauce, and cumin. Stir to blend into the oil, and then add the beans and 2Tbs. water to the pan, stirring to blend. Simmer until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Mash about half of the beans with a fork. Stir in the Cheddar and the remaining 21/2 Tbs. cilantro and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste with salt. If the beans seem too thick, add 1 to 2 Tbs. water to thin to a soft, spreadable consistency. Working with one tortilla at a time, spread about a quarter of the beans along the bottom third of a tortilla. Top with a quarter of the spinach, and sprinkle with about a quarter of the tomatoes and pepitas (if using). If you like, add a little lime juice and sour cream on top. Fold the bottom edge over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up the burrito.
In a small bowl, mix the cheese and tarragon. Butter all the bread slices on one side only. Put four slices, buttered side down, on a cutting board. Distribute the cheese over the bread and top with the ham, folding the ham slices if theyre large. Spread about 11/2tsp. mustard on the unbuttered side of the remaining bread slices and set them, mustard side down, on top. Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Put as many sandwiches as will fit in the pan or on thegriddle without crowding, cover, and cook until the cheese has just begun to melt and the bread is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the lid and turn the sandwiches, pressing each one firmly with a spatula to flatten it slightly. Cook the sandwiches uncovered until the bottom is golden brown, about 1minute. Turn them once more and press with the spatula again to recrisp the bread, about 30 seconds. Cut in half and serve immediately, with more mustard on theside.
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on the go
thick and syrupy; dont let it scorch. Add the fresh apricots and lemon juice and cook, stirring often, until very soft, about 10minutes. Mash the mixture with a wooden spoon or potato masher so that it has a thick, jam-like consistency. Remove from the heat. Stir cup of the almonds, the brandy, and almond extract into the apricot mixture. Cool to room temperature and set aside. (The filling can be made, covered, and refrigerated up to 2days ahead.)
Assemble and bake the pie
In a small bowl, mix the confectioners sugar, cream, and vanilla extract to form a smooth glaze thats just fluid enough to drizzle. With a spoon, drizzle the glaze over the top of the pie and immediately sprinkle with the remaining 1/4cup almonds. Allow to set for at least 2hours before serving. When ready to serve, use a serrated knife to cut the pie. The pie is best eaten the day its made, but it will keep for 1day, well wrapped, at room temperature.
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold vegetable shortening, cut into 3 pieces FOR THE FILLING 101/2 oz. (about 2 cups) dried apricots, coarsely chopped 2 / 3 cup granulated sugar 2 / 3 cup dry white wine 1 / 3 cup orange juice 12 oz. fresh apricots (about 6 small), pitted and sliced 11/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice 31/2 oz. (1 cup) sliced almonds, toasted 11/2 Tbs. brandy 1/4 tsp. pure almond extract FOR ASSEMBLY 1 large egg yolk 2 oz. (1/2 cup) confectioners sugar, sifted
11/2 Tbs. heavy cream or whole milk 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Make the dough
Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and vegetable shortening and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 10to 12pulses. Sprinkle 1 / 3cup cold water over the mixture and pulse until the dough just starts to come together, 8to 10pulses more. If the mixture seems dry, add more water 1 tsp. at a time. Do not overprocess. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, and gather it into a rectangle thats about 8by 12inches. Flatten slightly, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2hours and up to 3days.
Make the filling
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1tsp. water. On a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 1 / 8-inchthick, 12x18-inch rectangle. Be sure to loosen the dough several times and reflour underneath so that it doesnt stick. Trim the dough into an 11x16-inch rectangle and transfer it to the baking sheet. Turn the baking sheet so that a long side faces you, and brush the edges of the dough with the egg wash. Spread the apricot filling evenly over the bottom half of the dough, leaving a -inch border. Fold the top half of the dough over the filling, pressing along the edges to secure the sides. Press lightly along the edges with the back of a fork to seal. Brush egg wash all over the top of the dough. Using a paring knife, cut 5small steam vents in the dough at about 3-inch intervals. Bake until the pie is golden-brown, 55minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
seal right
To seal the filled pie, press a fork down gently, just enough to create a good bond (and a pretty crimped effect), but not so hard that it pushes through to the second layer of dough or pierces it, which may cause the filling to leak.
In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, combine the dried apricots, sugar, wine, orange juice, and 2 / 3cup water. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the apricots are very tender and can be mashed with a wooden spoon, 40to 45minutes. Add more water if the apricots are still not soft after most of the liquid has evaporated. The mixture should get
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1 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled (optional), cored, and cut into -inch-thick wedges (about 1cups) lb. ham steak, thinly sliced on the diagonal 2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. honey 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Split the baguette pieces lengthwise, open them up like a book, and top one side with the brie. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment or aluminum foil and bake until the cheese melts and the bread lightly browns, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large (12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the apples and cook, tossing every minute or so, until they start to soften and brown in places, 3 to 4minutes. Add the ham and cook, tossing gently, until it warms. Remove from the heat and gently toss with the mustard, honey, and thyme until the ham and apples are evenly coated. Using tongs, distribute the ham mixture into the warm pieces of baguette, secure with 2 toothpicks, cut in half, and serve.
leftover brie
Although brie is traditionally spread on crackers or bread, its also a delicious ingredient in savory cooking. Try folding leftover brie into mashed potatoes, risotto, or polenta, where it will add sharp richness just be sure to remove the rind first.
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on the go
Kosher salt
11/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt 8 oz. feta, cut into 3/4-inch pieces Coarse sea salt (optional)
In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, watermelon, and mint. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, red pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Pour over the tomato mixture and toss well. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at room temperature. Fold in the feta and toss well. Serve, sprinkled lightly with the coarse sea salt, if using (use about 1/2tsp.it adds a bit of texture); this salad can sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.
1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (about 4 cups) 2 large eggs, beaten 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger 2 tsp. minced garlic 6 to 8 medium (about 8-inch diameter) flour tortillas, warmed
Put the cabbage in a colander over the sink and toss with 1/2 tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and patdry. In a small bowl, mix 2 Tbs. of the hoisin sauce with the soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar. Set aside. In a 12-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat 1Tbs. of the canola oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the pork, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan and once its shimmering, add the scallion whites, the mushrooms, and 1/4tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and soften, 2to 3minutes. Push the mushroom mixture to one side of the pan and add the eggs. Cook, scrambling and breaking up with a wooden spoon or spatula into small pieces, until just set, about 1 minute. Transfer the contents of the skillet to the plate with the pork. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and add the scallion greens, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved hoisin mixture and the pork mixture to the cabbage and stir to distribute the hoisin. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1minute to meld the flavors. Spread about 1 Tbs. of the hoisin down the center of a tortilla, arrange a generous amount of the pork mixture over the hoisin, and wrap in the tortilla, burrito-style.
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3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp. kosher salt Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out with the back of a knife 1 large egg 1 sheet frozen packaged puff pastry (Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed overnight in the fridge or according to package instructions Assemble the jalousie
Flour, for rolling 1 tsp. demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar Crme frache, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional) Make the filling
In a large bowl, toss the apples, brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg. In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat until the milk solids turn golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla seeds, and stir. Carefully add the apple mixture to the skillet; with a heatproof rubber spatula, scrape all the sugar and spices from the bowl into the skillet. Stir the apples to coat them with the butter and then spread them in a fairly even layer. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring gently with the spatula every few minutes (try not to break the apple slices), until the apples are tender but not mushy (taste one) and still hold their shape, and the juices have cooked down to a fairly thick, brown, bubbling syrup, 10 to 13 minutes. Scrape the apples into a wide shallow dish or onto a baking sheet to cool completely before assembling the jalousie.
Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, make an egg wash by beating the egg with 1 Tbs. water until well combined. Unfold the pastry dough on a floured surface and gently pinch together any seams that have split. With a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x14-inch rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the rectangle in half lengthwise to form two 6x14inch rectangles. Use a long spatula to help you move one of the dough rectangles onto the prepared baking sheet. Use a pastry brush to brush a 1-inch border of egg wash around the perimeter of the dough. (Save the remaining egg wash.) Arrange the fruit in a 4-inch-wide strip down the length of the dough. (Shingle the apple slices in a thick herringbone pattern down the length of the dough; you may need to make a double layer of apples.) Some syrupy apple juices will likely remain in the dish; spoon 2 to 3 Tbs. over the apples. If some of the liquid seeps onto the egg-washed border, dont worry about it. Lightly dust the remaining piece of puff pastry with flour and then gently fold it in half lengthwise; dont crease the fold. Using a sharp knife, cut 11/2-inch-long slashes at 1-inch intervals along the folded side of the dough; leave at least a 1-inch border on the remaining three sides. Do not unfold the dough. Using a long spatula, gently lift the folded strip and position it over the fruitfilled dough rectangle, matching up the straight edges.
Gently unfold the top piece of dough and stretch it over the filling, matching the straight edges all the way around the perimeter of the dough. Press the edges gently with your fingertips to seal the dough, and then, with a fork, very gently crimp the edges of the dough all the way around the pastry. Chill the assembled jalousie for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 400F.
Bake the jalousie
Right before baking, brush the top of the jalousie with a very light coating of the remaining egg wash (you wont need it all) and sprinkle with the demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar. Bake for 15 minutes and then rotate the baking sheet. Continue baking until the pastry is puffed, deep golden brown on top, and light golden brown on the bottom (use a spatula to gently lift the jalousie so you can peek underneath), another 10 to 15 minutes. Immediately transfer the jalousie from the baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool for at least 45minutes. (Instead of trying to move the hot jalousie with a spatula, lift the parchment to move the jalousie to the rack and then carefully slide the paper out from under the pastry.) Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with crme frache, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, if you like. Its best the day its made, but the jalousie will keep, wrapped well in aluminum foil, for 3 days. You can reheat it in a 325F oven for 5 minutes before serving.
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on the go
inches square and then trim the edges of the butter. Put the trimmings on top of the square and pound them in lightly with the rolling pin. Refrigerate while you roll out the dough.
LAMINATE THE DOUGH
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) soft unsalted butter 1 Tbs. plus scant 1/2 tsp. instant yeast
21/4 tsp. table salt For the butter layer 10 oz. (11/4 cups) cold unsalted butter For the Egg wash and Filling 1 large egg 1/2 lb. sliced ham 1/2 lb. thinly sliced Cheddar or Gruyre MAKE THE DOUGH
Combine all of the dough ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on low speed for 3 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl once if necessary. Mix on medium speed for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured 10-inch pie pan or a dinner plate. Lightly flour the top of the dough and wrap well with plastic so it doesnt dry out. Refrigerate overnight.
MAKE THE BUTTER LAYER
The next day, cut the cold butter lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slabs. Arrange the slabs on a piece of parchment or waxed paper to form a 5- to 6-inch square, cutting the butter crosswise as necessary to fit. Top with another piece of parchment or waxed paper. With a rolling pin, pound the butter with light, even strokes. As the pieces begin to adhere, use more force. Pound the butter until its about 71/2
Unwrap and lay the dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll into a 101/2-inch square. Brush excess flour off the dough. Remove the butter from the refrigeratorit should be pliable but cold. If not, refrigerate a bit longer. Unwrap and place the butter on the dough so that the points of the butter square are centered along the sides of the dough. Fold one flap of dough over the butter toward you, stretching it slightly so that the point just reaches the center of the butter. Repeat with the other flaps. Then press the edges together to completely seal the butter inside the dough. (A complete seal ensures butter wont escape.) Lightly flour the top and bottom of the dough. With the rolling pin, firmly press the dough to elongate it slightly and then begin rolling instead of pressing, focusing on lengthening rather than widening the dough and keeping the edges straight . Roll the dough until its 8x24 inches. If the ends lose their square shape, gently reshape the corners with your hands. Brush any flour off the dough. Pick up one short end of the dough and fold it back over the dough, leaving one-third of the other end of dough exposed. Brush the flour off and then fold the exposed dough over the folded side. Put the dough on a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 20 minutes to relax and chill the dough. Repeat the rolling and folding, this time rolling in the direction of the two open ends until the dough is about 8x24 inches. Fold the dough in thirds again, brushing off excess flour and turning under any rounded edges
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For the glaze 1 cup confectioners sugar 4 to 5 tsp. strong brewed coffee
In the bowl of a stand mixer, gently whisk the warm milk with the yeast to combine. Sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the sugar. Let the yeast proof until air pockets float up, making the mixture look spongy, 5 to 10minutes. Add the remaining dough ingredients and mix with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until the dough comes together, and then continue mixing for 6 minutes to knead the dough, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. The dough should be loose and seem more like a tacky batter. Immediately scrape the dough into a greased bowl thats at least twice the doughs size, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
Make the filling
1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted For the filling 1/4 lb. semisweet chocolate 6 oz. (about 1 cup) dried cherries 1 cup sliced almonds, toasted
The next morning, put the chocolate in a food processor and pulse to chop coarsely. Add the dried cherries, almonds, sugar, and cinnamon and pulse until quite fine. Add the egg white and process just until the ingredients form a rough paste. (Cover the leftover yolk and refrigerate.)
Assemble the bread
1 / 3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 large egg, separated 1/2 tsp. whole milk
Grease 8 cups of a 12-cup muffin pan. Scrape the chilled dough onto a liberally floured surface. Using a well-floured rolling pin, gently roll the dough into a rectangle about 12x8 inches. Work quickly; the warmer the dough gets, the harder it is to handle. Spread the filling by hand over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on all four sides. Its all right if its a bit uneven. Starting with a long side, roll the dough into a log shape. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a bench knife or a spatula to lift it. Brush the excess flour from the top and sides of the dough roll. Using a sharp knife, trim the ends of the roll just enough to expose the spiral of filling. Discard the trimmings. Cut the roll into 8equal slices (each about 11/2to 2 inches wide). Set each slice, spiral side up, in a greased muffin cup, brushing the flour from the bottom of each piece as you go. Press very gently to be sure each piece reaches the bottom of the cup. Pour a few Tbs. of water into the empty, ungreased cups. Cover the dough with a clean, damp dishtowel or an oversize plastic storage container (to make a little greenhouse) and let rise until light and billowy, 11/2 to 2 hours. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350F. Make an egg wash by mixing the reserved egg yolk with the 1/2 tsp. milk. Just before baking, brush the dough with the egg wash. Bake until puffed and deep golden, 20 to 25minutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully siphon or drain the water from the extra cups and wipe dry. Loosen under the edge of the cakes caps with the tip of a paring knife. If the cakes grew together during baking, cut between them to separate. Turn onto a cooling rack.
Make and apply the glaze
In a cup, mix the confectioners sugar and coffee to make a smooth paste. It should be thick but still pourable. Drizzle over the cakes after they have cooled slightly.
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Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches and Candied Coconut Pecans, p. 71
Q u i c k s ta r t
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Butter two 6-inch gratin dishes with 1tsp. butter each. Crack 2 eggs into each gratin dish. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and sprinkle with the chives. Drizzle 1Tbs. cream in each dish, starting over the yolks and working around the dish. Bake until the eggs are bubbly and browned on the edges but not quite set in the middle, 5minutes. (For firmer eggs, bake an additional 1 minute .) Heat the broiler on high. Broil the eggs, still on the center rack of the oven, until the center is just set, about 2 minutes. Remove from the oven immediatelythe eggs will continue to set.
candied bacon
This maple syrup-coated, brown sugarcrusted bacon is the perfect salty-sweet marriage. Serves 2
6 slices thick-cut bacon 2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. pure maplesyrup
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Arrange the bacon slices on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle both sides with the maple syrup and then sprinkle both sides evenly with the brown sugar. Bake until browned and crisp, 20 to 22minutes.
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b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r
1 cups (1 oz. ) mixed dried mushrooms, rehydrated (see below) and chopped, plus cup of the soaking liquid 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme Freshly ground black pepper 1 cups grated Fontina (about 6oz.)
21/4 cups leftover finely shredded already-cooked pork 2 medium cloves garlic, finelychopped
1/2 tsp. white wine vinegar or lemonjuice 4 large eggs 1 large ripe avocado, sliced
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro Piment dEspelette or other medium-hot red chile flakes (optional)
Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, add water to cover by about 3/4 inch, and add 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to a plate, and set aside. Heat the oil in a 10-inch straightsided saut pan over medium-high
heat. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pork and continue to cook until the pork is warm, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until the raw garlic aroma subsides, about 1 minute. Add the potatoes, toss gently to combine, and continue to cook, stirring, until heated through, 1 to 3 minutes more. Season to taste with salt. If the hash is a little dry, add a drizzle of olive oil. Keep warm. Fill a medium saucepan with 3inches of water. Add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, and bring the water to a simmer. Crack the eggs one at a time into a small bowl or teacup and then gently slide each egg into the water. Poach the eggs, gently turning once or twice until the whites are completely opaque but the yolks are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and gently blot dry with a towel. Portion the hash among 4plates. Prop a poached egg and a few slices of avocado next to each portion. Sprinkle the egg and avocado with salt. Sprinkle the cilantro and piment dEspelette (if using) over the hash, and serve immediately.
In a 3-quart saucepan, bring 4 cups water to a boil. Whisk in 1 tsp. salt and then the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cornmeal is tender and absorbs all the liquid, about 30minutes. Meanwhile, make the mushroom rag. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rehydrated mushrooms and their liquid, the thyme, tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper; cover with the lid partially ajar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is a saucy consistency and the mushrooms soften, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir the Fontina into the polenta. Taste and season with salt as needed. Serve the polenta topped with the rag.
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1/4 cup all-purpose flour 3/4 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water 2 Tbs. dark rum 1 Tbs. pure maple syrup, preferably grade B
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. olive oil; more if needed 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped 1 Tbs. finely chopped freshcilantro
Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels. Put the flour on a plate. Combine the broth or water, rum, and maple syrup in a measuring cup or small bowl; set aside. Generously season the pork chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge the chops in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat for 1minute. Add the oil, and when its hot, set the chops in the pan (if they wont fit without crowding, cook them in batches). Cook until one side is light golden, about 2 minutes. Turn the pieces and cook until the other side is light golden and the meat is cooked through but still moist, another 1 to 2minutes. (Because the meat is so thin, it cant get more than light golden on each side without becoming overcooked and dry.) Transfer the chops to a plate and repeat with the remaining chops, if necessary. Add the ginger and garlic to the pan and stir constantly until they begin to turn golden, 5 to 10 seconds, and then immediately add the maple-rum mixture to the pan. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up the browned bits and help them dissolve. Boil until the sauce has reduced by about twothirds and is nicely saucy, 3 to 4 minutes. Off the heat, add the butter, swirling the pan vigorously (or whisking) as it melts so it emulsifies the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the pork and then sprinkle on the cilantro and mint. Serve right away.
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b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r
1/2 tsp. minced garlic Kosher salt 1/4 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes 1 oil-packed sun-dried tomato, minced (to yield 1tsp.) 2 large or extra-large eggs 5 leaves fresh basil, very thinly sliced (to yield 1Tbs.) 1 tsp. unsalted butter 1 thin slice mozzarella, cut inhalf 1 Tbs. freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano 1 Tbs. good-quality store-bought basil pesto
In a medium skillet, heat 1 tsp. of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring, until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes, adding the garlic and 2 pinches of salt halfway through. Raise the heat to medium high. Cook, stirring, untilgolden, another 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the canned tomatoes; simmer until the liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, several grinds of pepper, and a pinch of salt if needed. You should have about 1/4 cup filling; set aside 1tsp. for garnish. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, basil, 1 Tbs. water, 2 pinches of salt, and 4 grinds of pepper until the yolks and whites are well combined but not foamy. Inan 8-inch heavyduty nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat, heat the remaining 1 tsp. oil and then addthe butter. Swirl to coat thepan.
When the butter melts, pour the eggs into the pan. With a heatproof spatula, scramble the eggs using small, circular scribbling motions until soft curds start to form, 30 to 50 seconds. As the mixture firms, spread it over the bottom of the pan; swipe the sides as needed. Stop working the curds to let the omelet begin to firm and let it sit about 30seconds. (If you like your eggs well done, let it go a bit longer.) Add the mozzarella evenly, leaving a scant margin around the omelets edge. Add the tomato filling and use your spatula to gently press them into the curds to incorporate the filling into the omelet. With the spatula, lift one-third of the omelet and fold it over the center like a business letter. Tilt the pan toward the plate to slide the omelet so one-third of it hangs over the pans edge. Invert the pan, using the spatula to help support the omelet so that it flips neatly over itself as it slides out of the pan. Garnish with the Parmigiano, the pesto, and the reserved filling.
Kosher salt 1/2 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth 2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano 20 seedless red grapes, halved
In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat until its shimmering. Add the sausages and cook, turning every couple of minutes, until theyre browned all over, about 8minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion to the pot, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens completely and starts to turn light brown, about 7 minutes. Add the chicken broth and balsamic vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to incorporate any browned bits. Reduce to a gentle simmer (medium low or low, depending on your stovetop). Add the sausages and grapes, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausages are cooked through (slice into one to check), about 25 minutes. Serve sprinkled with the oregano.
storing links
Most sausage will hold in the refrigerator for three or four days after opening. For longer storage, pack a couple of links in a zip-top bag and freeze for up to three months. When ready to use, thaw in the refrigerator.
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Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle the garlic with a generous pinch of salt and mash it into a paste with the side of a chefs knife. In a small bowl, combine the garlic with
the tomato, avocado, salsa, jalapeo, and 1 Tbs. of the cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Have ready two dinner plates and a stack of paper towels. Heat the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, fry the tortillas one at a time until just golden and slightly crisp, about 30 seconds per side, and transfer to the paper towels. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the skillet cool down a bit. Meanwhile, blot the excess oil from the tortillas with the paper towels. Sprinkle each tortilla with a pinch of salt. Put one tortilla on each plate. Crack the eggs into the skillet. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the yolks edges have just begun to set, 2 to 3minutes. (The eggs should cook gently, so lower the heat if needed.) While the eggs are cooking, divide half the salsa between the tortillas. Divide the steak between the tortillas and top with the remaining salsa. Separate the eggs with the edge of a spatula, if needed. Slide one egg onto each tortilla. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro and the feta. Serve immediately.
large red bell pepper, cut into -inch dice (about cup) medium green bell pepper, cut into -inch dice (about cup) 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. fresh oregano
Put the potatoes in a 3-quart saucepan, cover with cold water by a couple of inches, stir in 1 Tbs. salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the potatoes are tender but still firm, about 10 minutes. Drain well. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering. Lower the heat to medium, add the potatoes, sprinkle with tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and start to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Raise the heat to medium high, pour the remaining oil into the skillet, add the onion and bell pepper, sprinkle with tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until they brown and become somewhat tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, oregano, and tsp. pepper, and cook, tossing, for 30 seconds so the spices become fragrant. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing, until they heat through and pick up the flavors of the vegetables and spices, about 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed, and serve.
Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast until light golden on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drizzle the bread with olive oil. Distribute the chocolate evenly on top of the bread. Turn off the broiler and return the bread to the oven until the residual heat melts the chocolate, about 1 minute. Smooth the chocolate with a table knife, if you want. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on each slice and serve.
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m i d n i g h t c r av i n g s
1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated 4 Tbs. cider vinegar 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)
Cut the sweet potato, onion, and apple into 1/2-inch cubes or pieces and set each aside separately. Slice the pork into 12 to 14 medallions about 3/4 to 1 inch thick (dont worry if theyre not all even). Season them with 1 tsp. salt and a little pepper and set aside. In a large straight-sided skillet, melt 1 Tbs. each of the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the sweet potato pieces in one layer and season with about 3/4 tsp. salt and a little pepper. Saut them until theyre brown and crusty on most sides, about 10 minutes. (Dont stir often; let them sit in the
pan for 2 or 3 minutes on each side before flipping with a metal spatula.) Carefully add 3 Tbs. water to the pan, and, as it sizzles, cover the pan briefly (about 1 minute) to let the potato steam. Uncover, stir, and transfer to a bowl. Turn the heat to medium high, heat another 1 Tbs. each butter and oil in the pan, and add the onion and apple. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Saut, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and both the onion and apple are nicely browned around the edges (the bottom of the pan will be brown), 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the ginger, saut briefly, and pour 2 Tbs. cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water into the pan. Remove the pan from the heat and stir to scrape up the browned bits. Transfer the contents of the pan to the bowl with the sweet potatoes. Put the pan back over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil. As soon as the butter sizzles loudly, add the pork medallions in one layer. Cook for 2 minutes (theyll be lightly browned), turn over, and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate. Carefully pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water, remove the pan briefly from the heat, and scrape up the browned bits. Return the sweet potato mixture to the pan over the heat and stir until heated through. Put several pork slices in the middle of each of 2 or 3 warm plates. Fold the parsley, if using, into the sweet potato mixture and evenly mound it on top of the pork.
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Freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup diced red onion 2 large eggs, chilled 1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti 1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until its soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about another 5minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any browned bits from the bottom. In a small bowl, beat the eggs until smooth and set aside. Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according to package directions until its just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you addthem. Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.) The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.
carbonara tricks
Add enough pasta water to prevent the bottom of the pan from becoming dry; the eggs will scramble in a dry pan.
Pour the eggs over the pasta and keep tossing until the eggs thicken into a custard-like consistency.
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Put the flour, sugar, salt, and cardamom in a small bowl and stir with a fork until thoroughly combined. Drizzle the melted butter over the mixture and stir with the fork until the mixture resembles a clumpy dough. Using your fingers, break the mixture into pistachiosize clumps and large crumbs. (If the streusel is sandy and wont clump, add a little more melted butter, 1 tsp. at a time.) Refrigerate the streusel while you prepare the cake batter.
Make the cake
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375F. Lightly butter and flour an 8x8x2-inch straight-sided cake pan. Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl. Whisk in the granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, and vanilla until well blended. Set aside. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, table salt, and cardamom until well blended. Add the butter pieces and cut them into the flour with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles a very coarse meal strewn with pieces of butter the size of small peas and oat flakes. Add the egg mixture to the flour. With a wooden spoon, fold and stir until you have a thick batter speckled with visible lumps of butter, 45 seconds to 1 minute. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Break up the streusel mixture with your fingers and sprinkle half of it evenly over the batter. Arrange the plum quarters skin side down on the batter, with each piece at a 45-degree angle to the sides of the pan. Sprinkle the remaining streusel evenly over the cake. Bake for 20 minutes and then rotate the pan. Continue baking until the top of the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging to it, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let the cake cool in its pan on a rack for at least an hour before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.
cover recipe
11/2 to 2oz. good-quality semisweet chocolate (preferably from a thin bar) 2 large eggs 2 Tbs. granulated sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
Cut each piece of bread into 4triangles by slicing diagonally. Cut or break the chocolate into 8pieces, roughly the same triangle shape as the bread pieces but slightly smaller by at least 1/4inch all the way around. In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk the eggs and sugar until well combined. Add the halfand-half, vanilla, and 1/4 tsp. salt and whisk until combined. Put
the bread pieces in the bowl and press down gently to make sure theyre all soaked. In a medium nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melted and sizzling, add half of the bread pieces in one layer, leaving a little space between each. Cook until nicely browned, about 2 minutes. Turn each piece over with a spatula and cook until the other side is nicely browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Transfer the bread pieces to a plate lined with paper towels and take the skillet off the heat. Put a triangle of chocolate on half of the bread pieces, and top each with another piece of bread (save the best-looking pieces for the tops). Let them sit while you return the pan to the heat, melt the remaining 1Tbs. butter, cook the remaining bread, and fill it with the remaining chocolate. When all the sandwiches are made, arrange 2,overlapping slightly, on each of 4plates. Sprinkle the confectioners sugar generously over all and serve warm.
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Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette, p. 104
special occasions
mushroom-fontina tart
Puff pastrys light and airy texture combined with dense, earthy mushroom slices makes this a standout breakfast addition. Serves 8
For the mushroom saut 1 Tbs. olive oil 1 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (try 4oz. shiitake and 6 oz. each cremini and white mushrooms), washed, trimmed, and sliced 1/4inch thick 2 cloves garlic, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, sage, and chives (optional) For the tart 1 sheet frozen puff pastry 1 egg, beaten Flour, for dusting 13/4 oz. (1/2 cup) finely grated Fontina saut the mushrooms
Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch saut pan or skillet over medium heat until the butter foams. Add the mushrooms and garlic. The mushrooms will quickly absorb all the fat in the pan. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and stir until the mushrooms start to release their moisture and begin to shrink, 2to 3minutes. Increase the heat to medium high so that you hear a steady sizzle; stir occasionally. In about 5 minutes, when the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms start to brown, give just an occasional sweep with the spoon (about once a minute) to let the mushrooms brown nicely, cooking them another 2 to 4 minutes. Resist the inclination to stir too often. Turn off the heat and toss in the parsley and pepper to taste, adding more salt if needed. Add the other herbs if using and set aside to cool.
Make the tart
Meanwhile, thaw the puff pastry at room temperature until pliable, 30 to 45minutes. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Unfold the pastry sheet and roll it into a rectangle thats about 10x15inches and about 1 / 16inch thick. Slide it onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. With the exception of about an inch border around the rectangle, prick the pastry all over with a fork. With a pastry brush, brush the beaten egg over the border (you wont need
all of it). Bake until the pastry begins to puff and the surface feels dry, about 5minutes. Scatter the mushroom saut onto the pastry, leaving an inch or so of the border uncovered. Bake until the crust border is puffed and deeply golden brown, about 10minutes. Scatter the cheese over the mushrooms and continue baking until the cheese melts, another 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool briefly on a rack before slicing andserving.
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hollandaise sauce
Heres the trick to making this simple sauce: Whisk it over simmering water so the egg yolks cook gently and dont curdle. Yields about 11/2 cups
4 large egg yolks 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard (optional) 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted
coconut meringues
These meringues can be made 1 day ahead of time and stored in an airtight container until ready to serve. Yields about 12pieces, depending on size
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes 3 large egg whites 6 Tbs. granulated sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Position a large heatproof bowl over a pot of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesnt touch the water. In the bowl, whisk the yolks, lemon juice, and mustard (if using) until well combined. Gradually whisk in the butter in a thin stream and keep whisking until the sauce is thick enough for the whisk to leave tracks that hold for a couple of seconds, 1 to 2 minutes. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of hot water to thin it. Whisk in the cayenne or hot sauce and season to taste with salt. Keep the sauce warm in its bowl set over the simmering water, whisking occasionally, until ready to use.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300F. Spread 1/4cup of the coconut flakes on a baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 5minutes. Lower oven to 200F. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Slowly sprinkle in the sugar while beating until the whites are stiff and glossy. Fold in the vanilla and the remaining untoasted coconut. Use a pastry bag with a large tip to pipe the meringue into shapes onto an ungreased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut and bake for 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the meringues dry in the oven until crisp, about 2hours. Let the meringues cool completely before removing them from the sheet.
1 / 8 fresh pineapple, sliced 1 / 3 cup fresh orange juice 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. sugar, preferably superfine; more to taste 4 passionfruit
get creative
Pipe the meringue into any shape you wish, from kisses to logs.
start slowly
When whisking in the melted butter, start with a thin stream and slowly add it, to keep the sauce creamy.
Candied orange zest, for garnish (optional) Coconut meringues (recipe at right)
In a large bowl, combine the slices of kiwi, mango, blood orange, star fruit, and pineapple. In a small bowl, stir the orange juice, lime juice, and sugar and pour this mixture over the fruit. Split the passionfruit and either spoon the pulp and seeds over the sliced fruit, or strain the pulp to remove the seeds and then pour over the fruit. Garnish with candied orange zest, if using. Serve with coconut meringues.
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test kitchen
technique
Skinning hazelnuts
To skin the hazelnuts for the waffles on p. 39, spread the nuts in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in a 375F oven until the skins are mostly split and the nuts are light golden brown (the skins will look darker) and fragrant, about 10minutes. Dont overtoast or the nuts will become bitter. Wrap the hot nuts in a clean dishtowel and let them sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Then vigorously rub the nuts against themselves in the towel to remove most of the skins. Try to get at least half of the skins off. This may take a lot of rubbing, so be persistent.
technique
technique
Coring pears
Youll peel, core, and then dice the pears for the Winter Fruit Salad on p. 42. To core the pear, first peel and cut it in half. Then, use a melon baller to scoop out the seeds and fibrous core.
tip
For the vanilla beans in the Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie on p. 57, hold the bean at one end and, using a paring knife, split the bean lengthwise in half (if only half a bean is called for, cut the whole bean in half crosswise before splitting just one of the halves). Then slide the back of the knife down the opened or cut end of the bean and scrape out the seeds.
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nutrition
Recipe breakfast basics, p. 10
Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake) 110 30 3 16 3.5 1.5 1 0 30 170 0
Calories (kcal)
Protein (g)
Carb (g)
Mo no Fat (g)
Chol (mg)
Sodium (Mg)
Fiber (g)
Breakfast Drinks, p. 16
Masala Chai Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail (based on 6 servings) Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie Orange Slush (per cup) Homemade Apple Cider Real Hot Chocolate Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary (w/1 oz. vodka) Champagne Cocktail Strawberry Orange Vanilla Smoothie 50 130 110 180 120 420 130 60 270 15 0 5 25 0 270 0 0 30 1 0 2 4 0 8 2 0 7 8 12 25 35 30 36 12 8 54 1.5 0 0.5 2.5 0 30 0 0 3.5 1 0 0 1.5 0 18 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 9 0 0 0.5 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 2 5 0 0 10 0 60 0 0 0 20 5 20 40 25 105 1160 0 10 0 0 3 0 0 3 2 0 2
Bread Basket, p. 24
Cranberry-Orange Muffins (per muffin) Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread Authentic Brioche (per 3-inch brioche) Sour Cherry and Walnut Scones Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Muffins (per muffin) Fastest-Ever Cinnamon Buns (per bun) Classic Water Bagels (per mini bagel) Chocolate Chip Muffins Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits (per 2-inch biscuit) 270 430 270 370 320 300 100 680 130 90 180 120 150 147 120 10 270 50 5 8 6 5 5 5 3 8 3 39 56 29 49 41 40 18 97 17 11 21 14 17 16 13 1 30 5 6 10 8 8 8 4.5 0 16 2 3 4.5 4 3.5 6 6 0 10 2 0.5 4.5 1 4 2 2.5 0.5 2.5 1 60 85 115 30 65 15 0 95 5 250 310 380 200 370 290 390 320 300 1 2 1 2 2 2 1 3 1
For a Crowd, p. 36
Hazelnut Waffles Berry Compote (per 1/4 cup) Crme Frache Whipped Cream (per 1 Tbs.) Cabbage, Leek, and Bacon Tart Streusel-Topped Ginger-Apple Coffee Cake Winter Fruit Salad Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, and Artichoke Quiche Asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom Strata Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage Open-Faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches Leek and Morel Strata Fresh Fig Tart with Orange Custard 290 90 20 660 360 140 590 500 310 440 320 310 140 0 20 490 122 0 400 240 200 190 130 160 8 0 0 15 6 1 16 32 21 20 18 4 30 23 1 29 55 32 33 34 6 44 29 38 16 0 2 54 13 0 44 27 22 21 14 18 2 0 1.5 29 7 0 27 15 7 3.5 6 11 8 0 0.5 19 4 0 12 8 10 14 4.5 5 4.5 0 0 4 2 0 2.5 1.5 4 3 1.5 1 75 0 5 220 805 0 230 315 75 15 335 75 380 0 0 860 290 0 740 1140 350 1630 630 200 1 1 0 2 1 4 3 2 1 7 2 4
On the Go, p. 48
Smoky Black Bean and Cheddar Burritos with Spinach French-Style Grilled Ham andGruyre Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie Oven-Toasted Ham, Brie, and Apple Sandwiches Watermelon, Tomato, and Feta Salad Chinese Pork and Mushroom Wraps Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio Frittata Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie Ham and Cheese Croissants Cherry Breakfast Focaccia Trail Mix Bars Individual Cinnamon Coffee Cakes w/Swirl (per coffee cake) 510 390 650 580 190 330 190 250 380 300 460 660 190 210 280 180 150 120 130 120 210 10 260 270 19 22 9 25 5 14 8 3 10 7 8 12 63 21 81 72 8 36 6 30 33 66 45 89 21 24 32 20 16 14 15 13 23 1 30 30 6 12 15 12 6 2.5 4 5 14 0 11 13 10 8 10 6 9 7 8 6 6 0 13 11 4 2 3.5 0.5 1.5 3 1.5 1 1 0.5 4 3 15 95 80 70 25 70 165 25 80 0 50 120 1020 940 65 1300 470 730 280 190 600 490 170 330 9 1 5 3 1 4 2 1 1 3 3 6
118
Calories (kcal)
Protein (g)
Carb (g)
Mo no Fat (g)
Chol (mg)
Sodium (Mg)
Fiber (g)
8 4 8 2 13 2 9 1 21 6 11
30 29 13 27 1 9 73 22 1 40 54
17 12 7 0.5 19 2.5 38 0 24 32 36
1.5 1 3.5 0 9 1 22 0 12 20 22
9 7 2.5 0 6 1 10 0 8 6 7
4 4 1 2 0 0 3 2 0 1 9
Breakfast at Midnight, p. 84
Sweet Potato and Chile Hash with a Fried Egg Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches Toasted Bread with Chocolate (1.5 oz. bread w/1 tsp. oil) Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple Saut Spaghetti alla Carbonara Rosemary Steak and Potatoes Tuscan Poached Eggs Plum Coffee Cake with Brown Sugar and Cardamom Streusel Smoky Refried Bean Tostadas Mini Pizzas with Arugula, Peppers, and Prosciutto Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches 430 270 220 610 810 880 360 350 640 140 270 300 140 100 320 310 430 160 140 320 45 140 9 7 5 35 34 75 14 5 20 6 7 28 27 28 38 89 32 37 48 62 16 27 33 16 11 36 34 48 18 16 36 5 16 6 9 3.5 13 10 24 4 10 8 1.5 9 16 4 3.5 18 15 17 10 4.5 17 2 4 10 1 0 2 4.5 2 2 1 9 0.5 1 225 135 0 125 255 255 215 85 35 10 135 970 290 390 430 1530 740 740 240 1400 360 290 4 2 2 5 6 3 5 1 14 2 2
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper arent specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1 / 8 tsp. pepper per serving for entres, and 1 / 8 tsp. salt and 1 / 16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.
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RECIPE INDEX
Beef, Chicken, Pork &Lamb
Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage45 Braised Sausages with BalsamicGlazed Onions and Grapes 80 Candied Bacon66 Egg Foo Yung with Chicken and Shiitake78 Pork and Potato Hash with Poached Eggs and Avocado76 Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger PanSauce79
p. 67
Beverages
Champagne Cocktail 23 Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie 20 Homemade Apple Cider 21 Masala Chai 18 Orange Slush 20 Real Hot Chocolate 21 Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail 18 Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary 22 Sugar Syrup 18 Tangy Strawberry-Orange Smoothie 23
p. 23
p. 34
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