Hinge Installination

using a self-contained metal clay hinge

by Wanaree Tanner
In early 2011 I produced a video on how to extrude your own metal clay hinges: http://youtu.be/OwAssZ7BFEE This is a project that demonstrates how to install one of those hinges in a small picture box.

Front, back, side panels, and hinge are all trimmed to size. There is also a frame panel that youll see later on thatll be installed inside box. All pieces are at least 4 cards thick since COPPRclay shrinks 20%. The hinge will make up the forth wall of the box. I created remaining three side panels slightly wider, to leave room the a slot behind the hinge where the picture can be changed out.

A hobbyist's mitre box is and excellent tool to have in the studio. They can be purchased in the train model section of any hobby store along with the corresponding saw blades. This is how I create such clean connections on my boxes, it takes the guess work out of cutting a 45 degree angle.

The side panels are all trimmed to t, for this box I wanted a continuous pattern so I rolled out a textured strip long enough to go around the three sides. You can use a tape measure around the perimeter of the front panel to determine the length need for the side panels, and cut accordingly. I then use the mitre box to cut the angle into the sides, without damaging the texture.

copyright wanaree tanner 2012

www.artwarebywanaree.com

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I joined the three sides with copper clay paste and allowed to dry completely. As you can see from (1), the hinge is a little long. I sanded the ends so the entire hinge would t inside the two side walls (not pictured.) I always use a paste made with Sherri Haabs Paste Maker solution, it bonds the clay without a lot of work, and joins well even on its own. To attach the side panels to the back plate, I used a very loose paste, almost runny, so that extra paste wouldnt squish out

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of the joins and leave gloppiness hanging out of the connection. Its just enough to temporarily join the pieces (3) After allowing the piece to dry for a few moments, I went back with a much thicker paste, about the consistency of yogurt and reinforced the inside walls (4) I set the piece to dry in my dehydrator then went back and sanded the inside a little cleaner. (not pictured) The top of side walls for this had to be sanded to

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allow for the lid to open once attach. I used a at metal le to sand a prole to match the hinge to be installed (5) Using the same le, I gently sanded a straight grove on the inside wall of both sides to create a shelf for the frame to slide into. This extra little step helps to keep the clay pieces supported during ring. (6) These kind of locking pieces help to stabilize this kind of work and I attribute a lot of my success with complex COPPRclay construction to this.
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copyright wanaree tanner 2012

Here you can nally see the frame panel that ts inside the box. The frame was create to slide right into the groves cut into the side walls. I applied a loose paste into the grooves and slid the frame into place. After drying I went back and reinforced the inside seam with more loose paste. Working slowly and gently is the trick! The slot at the top allows for the picture to be changed out easily.

After apply paste to the wall and the outer hinge end, I inserted the hinge into place. Lots of thick paste was used to connect the hinge to the box, then the entire piece was set aside to dry in the dehydrator. I use a pretty ne point synthetic brush for my paste. General FYI: natural hair brushes will not last when working with metal clay paste.

copyright wanaree tanner 2012

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After drying I sanded the whole piece smooth, I like to use 600 grit wet/dry sand paper. WEAR A MASK!! In order for the lid to open once its attached, the edges of the lid have to be able to clear the hinge. I lined the lid up with where the middle hinge will be connected and marked the edge using my craft knife. I then extended the mark to the reverse side of the lid, and shaved down the lid to about a 45degree angle on either side, leaving the center unaltered. Then I smoothed and rened with a at metal le.

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Using a thick clay paste, I attached the lid to the middle hinge knuckle. I lined up the front to the back gently adjusting with my ngers before the paste can dry. I set it aside to dry, then added lots of thick paste to the outside seam and set to dry again. Only after the piece is completely dry do I try to open the box. Its all in the prep work!

If all is well, as it was in this case, I open the box and reinforce the inside of the lid and hinge connection. I used thick paste and gentle crammed it into the seam. I like to over ll then go back with my sand paper and craft knife to clean it all up after the pieces are all dried. I will sometime use a straight wet brush to wash the seams smooth.

copyright wanaree tanner 2012

www.artwarebywanaree.com

And there it is. I left the piece in my dehydrator for over an hour before I try to re. I supported the slot in the top with scrap strips of dried greenware copper clay during ring, otherwise the frame can collapse. I also dust the lid, frame, and hinge components with PaperClay powder (tutorial will be a later post.) It prevents the touching surfaces from bonding in the kiln during ring. I slow ramp 1100F/hr up to 1750F, and held for 3hrs 20mins. The piece was then tumbled and nished by hand.

Wanaree Tanner is an award winning, full-time artist, with a love for illustration and a fascination with world mythologies. She started working in metal clay in 2008 and quickly became obsessed with turning two dimensional drawings into three dimensional forms. She enjoys writing and sharing her studio practice both in articles and on her blog. For more information please stop by her website and blog: www.artwarebywanaree.com & http://artwarebywanaree.blogspot.com/

copyright wanaree tanner 2012

www.artwarebywanaree.com