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How to make easy egg-free ice creams that are more flavorful than
their traditional custard-based cousins
How to make no-knead Danish that are even better than the
ones at your local bakery
How to smoke vegetables to make flavorful vegetarian dishes
author of
Modernist Cuisine
Kamo_9780770433215_pob_all_r9.indd 3
Clarkson Potter/Publishers
New York
www.crownpublishing.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
Kamozawa
and Talbot
POTTER
Recipes that
will change
the way you
cook
Aki Kamozawa & H. Alexander
Talbot | founders & Authors
of Ideas in Food
6/18/13 1:36 PM
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
Contents
Introduction 8
1 Breakfast 12
2 Breads 40
3 Soups & Stews 60
4 Salads 84
5 Vegetables & Potatoes 102
6 Fish & Shellfish 130
7 Poultry & Meat 150
8 Cakes 184
9 Pies & Tarts 204
10
Cookies, Candy & Ice
Creams 222
Sources 248
Acknowledgments 250
Index 251
Introduction
We love to play with food. In fact, we love it so much that
weve made careers out of it. When we cooked professionally, we
started experimenting in our free time, teaching ourselves new
approaches and embracing innovation to make food taste better.
We eventually made the jump to opening our own business and
now consult with restaurants and companies big and small to
help them solve kitchen conundrums and think more creatively
about cooking.
As a result, youll find lots of kitchen science in these pages.
When, years ago, we became fascinated by figuring out the hows and whys
of what happens in the kitchen, we started chronicling our adventures
on our website and blog, Ideas in Food. Modern cooking, aka molecular
gastronomy, has inspired many chefs and cooks to explore new ideas in
the kitchen, which is always a good thing. But some of its techniques can
be too over the top for most home cookslike using liquid nitrogen to
freeze ice cream. So in this book we focus exclusively on recipes that can
help home cooks make better meals every day. And while there are many
cool things you can do with food, were only ever interested in the tricks
and techniques that help deliver maximum flavor.
Often well take a standard recipe and see if we can improve it by
experimenting with different ways to prepare it. When you make French
Fries (page 123), for example, conventional wisdom is to soak the cut
potatoes and then deep-fry them twice in oil, once at a lower temperature
and then a second time at a higher one. We found that several tweaks
resulted in fries that are always golden and crisp on the outside and
tender on the inside: soaking in salted water, steaming the potatoes to
hydrate the starches, and then frying just once to brown the exterior. And
if you want a great burger alongside, check out our Butter Burgers (page
166), which also break some culinary rules; contrary to popular belief,
burgers cook more quickly and evenly if you flip them regularly.
We also use pantry ingredients strategically to maximize flavor. It
turns out that the secret to the best Korean-Style Chicken Wings (page
156) starts with a simple marinade of egg whites, baking soda, and salt,
Introduction
So experiment, taste,
play with your food,
and discover again why
cooking and eating are so
fascinating and fun.
10
Serves 8
Green Gazpacho
In a large bowl, combine the pistachios, grapes, melon, tomatillos,
cucumbers, scallions, jalapeo, and salt and mix well. Divide the mixture
between 2 gallon-size zip-top bags and make sure they are securely
closed. Lay the bags out flat, one on top of the other, on a tray or baking
sheet and put them in the freezer. Freeze until solid, at least 8 hours.
Transfer the bags to the refrigerator to let the mixture thaw,
at least 12 hours. (If you are in a hurry, you can thaw them under cold
running water for 1 hour.) The fruits and vegetables will soften and start
releasing their liquid and this will help to get the most flavor out of them
when you puree them. Transfer the contents of 1 bag to a large blender.
Turn the blender on low speed and slowly increase the power to high
speed, pureeing the mixture until completely smooth, 2 to 4minutes.
Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve into a large pitcher. Pour the
soup into ice cube trays and put the trays in the freezer. Repeat with the
second bag of soup. Freeze the soup in the ice cube trays until it is rock
solid, at least 6 hours. At this point you can remove it from the trays and
store the cubes in zip-top bags in the freezer for up to a week.
Chill a large metal bowl in the freezer for at least 1 hour before you
are planning to serve the soup. Put 8 soup bowls into the refrigerator to
chill. Set up a food processor with the thin slicing blade. Turn the food
processor on and feed the frozen soup cubes through the feed tube and
shave the soup. When the bowl of the food processor is halfway filled,
stop the machine and transfer the shaved soup to the bowl in the freezer.
62
Repeat with the remaining soup. Grated gazpacho may be kept in the
freezer for up to 1 hour.
To serve, put equal portions of the frozen, shaved gazpacho into
each of the 8 chilled serving bowls. Drizzle about a teaspoon of pistachio
oil over each serving and finish with a sprinkling of fleur de sel and a few
assorted herb flowers.
63
French Fries
In a large bowl, combine the water and salt and stir until the salt is
dissolved.
Peel the potatoes. Square off the top and bottom of each potato
and then trim a small slice off the bottom of each one so that it lies flat
on the cutting board. Cut the potato into 3/8-inch-thick (1 cm) planks. Lay
each plank flat on the cutting board and cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch-wide
(1 cm) batons. Put the potato batons in the bowl of salt water and let them
soak for 2 to 3 hours.
Drain the potatoes and discard the water. Put the potatoes in
a bowl that fits easily inside your pressure cooker. Put 2 inches (5 cm)
of water in the cooker and set a small rack inside. Put the bowl on the
rack and cook at high pressure for 5 minutes. Let the pressure dissipate
naturally. Remove the lid of the pressure cooker and immediately remove
the potatoes from the bowl and lay them out on a wire rack to cool
to room temperature, about 30 minutes. (If you leave them to cool in
the bowl they will stick to each other and to the bowl.) Refrigerate the
potatoes, uncovered, for up to 6 hours, until you are ready to fry, or cover
when completely cold and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven to 250F (120C).
Fill a large pot with 2 inches (5 cm) of oil and heat it to 400F
(205C). Put about one-quarter of the potatoes in the oil and stir them
with a metal spider skimmer. The temperature should drop to about
375F (190C). Cook the potatoes until they are a deep golden brown
on the outside and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Its important to
cook these potatoes all the way through or they will steam as they cool
and lose their crisp texture. Transfer the fries to a wire rack and season
generously with salt. Put the rack with the fries into the warm oven while
frying the remaining batches. Serve hot.
123
Serves 4 to 6
Korean-Style
Chicken Wings
Put the egg whites, baking soda, and salt in a bowl and stir to dissolve
the salt and baking soda. Add the chicken wings and stir to coat evenly.
Remove the wings from the bowl and lay them out on 2 wire racks, each
set over a baking sheet. Refrigerate the wings uncovered overnight for
them to dry out.
Preheat the oven to 450F (235C).
Put the wings, still on the racks on the baking sheets, into
the oven and cook for 15 minutes. Flip the wings over and bake for
10minutes. Flip the wings over again and bake until a deep golden brown
with a crackling skin, about 10 more minutes. Take the pans out of the
oven and let cool for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, apple juice,
honey, rice vinegar, sesame oil, chile flakes, sesame seeds, garlic, ginger,
and scallion.
Pile the wings on a serving platter and serve the sauce alongside.
156
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