Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
Sponsored by O/o The Development Commissioner of Handicraft Ministry Of Textile, Govt. Of India West Block no.-7, R.K.Puram, New Delhi110066.
Organized & Submitted byM/S SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD. NOWPORA KHAWOOSA (J&K)
CONTENT
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
ABOUT THE A.H.V.Y. (THE SCHEME) OBJECTIVE OF A.H.V.Y COMPONENT OF A.H.V.Y ABOUT THE CRAFT ABOUT THE SOCIETY
DESIGNERS REPORT
DESIGNERS VIEW
NEW ELEMENTS ADDED PERFORMANCE CUM ACHIVEMENT REPORT CONCLUSION RESUME OF THE DESIGNER
Acknowledgement
I want to give my sincere thanks to all persons who were involved and made this workshop successful, and without their proper support and guidance journey could not be fruitful. I am thankful to O/o DC Handicraft for its mega project in various stages and feel grateful for this design and technical development workshop. It comes as a launching pad for the artisans to set the traditional skill on the right track. And last but not the least I want to give special thanks to the artisans of M/S SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD. (J&K) for their lively attitude towards their commitment for the workshop.
PREFACE
The fifteen days Design & Technical Development Workshop in Hand Embroidery craft under AHVY scheme, program was organized by M/S SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD. (J&K) Sponsored by the O/o the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, is one such step in this direction. Detail survey of the area, established the fact that the artisans Embroidered cloths for their personal use, for their children and some items for the use of their man, and repeating the old designs they are equipped with. In present arena, everything from the basic needs to wants changing as per the time passes. It's well said fact that by forgetting the history you can succeed but can't let any impression to follow for your coming generation. One should know about their roots. To become successful distinct & superior you have to identify yourself with your culture. And government is making continued effort to make it alive by such initiative. By providing equitable growth opportunities for women who is increasingly being reflected among others in increased participation by women in local government and decision making process, promoting of income generation activities and thrift and credit for women. No more old traditions were followed or idolized by the new generation. As new generation is techno savvy they don't want to invest long time
required to exhibit the act, are running towards the western culture, they don't have the respect or acceptability for their old tradition because they weren't have knowledge about their tradition and its importance. It needs to update the craft knowledge and continuous effort to make it opportunity oriented so that younger generation can pursue the craft. And this scheme is one of those courageous efforts from the government.
The main objective of the scheme To organize artisans cluster into Self Help Groups (SHGs) or co-operative societies with a view to enabling them to take up economic activity for sustainable development through a collective mode. To empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic and overseas markets.
To upgrade artisans skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value added items. To provide adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisans access to a larger market segments, both domestic & international. To ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production and marketing process for optimal growth in human resources, production, business and income.
Ompora BUdgam:- On of the very beautiful Railway stations endowed with modern facilities( under construction yet). Historical Places and Monuments Tomb of Sheikh Noorud-din-Noorani The tomb of Alamdar-e-Kashmir is situated 28 Kms in southwest of Srinagar at Chrar-e- Sharif in Budgam District. The shrine on the burial site was constructed by the then ruler of Kashmir Zain ul Abideen. Sheikh Noor-ud-din was born in Kaimoh and his ancestors belonged to Kishtwar. He was a pious soul and travelled throughout Kashmir to spread the message of his religion. He meditated for 12 years inside a cave. Four centuries after his death Afghan governor Atta Mohd. Khan issued coins in his name. The shrine alongwith Khanqah was gutted in a devatating fire in 1995. A new shrine is planned to be constructed in its place. The Shrine of Khan Saheb It is situated in the Khan saheb block of the District.It is associated with famous saint Hazrat Saleh Khan who belonged to village Pakhla of Pakistan. Syed Saleh Khan also meditated inside a cave for 12 years and stayed in Srinagar for some time.He was also a fine calligrapher. ImamBara Budgam The Imambara is a holy place for Shiiete Muslims of Kashmir. This building was constructed in the year 1857. The present imambara is octagonal and has five main enterances each of 12ft width. One of the doors is reserved for women. The Imambara is a piece of indo-Iranian architectureand commands great reverence among Shia masses. Ziarat Alamdar-E-Kashmir The land of Khag was fortunate enough to have Sheikh noor-Ud-Din as a visitor. Sheikh selected a rock a Khag for meditation and this bears the imprints of his feet. This rock is known as shah Kaen. A shrine is built there in the memory of the saint.
The Tomb of Sham Ded Sham ded was a daughter of a Iron smith in Poshker village and was initiated into sprituality by Sheikh-ul-Alam. The pious lady after his death was laid to rest in Poshker village and a shrine was construted there. Other shrines of various pious saints abound in Budgam. These are shrines of : Baba Latif-ud-Din, Syed Mohd. Samri, Hazrat Ganga Baba Rishi, Zia -ud-Din Bukhari. Tourist Places Budgam has many places of tourist interest where man finds peace and in close union with nature. These include Yusmarg It is one of the captivating meadows of Kashmir. It is 50 kms southwest of Srinagarat an elevation of 7500 ft above sealevel. It is a cluster of meadows surrounded by PirPanjal mountains. The place is connected by road from Srinagar and Charar-e-Sharief. NilNag It is famous blue water lake 4 Kms from Yusmarg connected with bridle path. It is wonderful picnic spot. Mount Tutakuti It is source of Doodhganga stream and is at a elevation of 15000 ft from the sea level. The stream is famous for its trout. Doodganga is just one Km from Yusmarg. Sang-e-Safed These are white rocks 10 kms from Yusmarg. Enroute there are many meadows where one can have night halts. Surrounded by dense pine forests the place is a famous picnic spot. Tosmaidan It is famous pasture and has a historical background. Mughlas took this route for travelling into Poonch. It is the largest pasture in the surrounding areas. Other places with tourist potentials are Pehjan and Nakwaer Pal which can be explored. Dudepather The recently discovered tourist resort, one of the most beautiful place in the world. However this beautiful place because of recent
discovery in the media has not a good facility of hotels & restaurants & reads to reach the spot . VENUE OF THE WORKSHOPVillage- Lahorie Check Distt. BUDGAM (J&K)
Date of the Workshop 06TH Sept. 2012 20TH Sept. 2012 (total days 15)
M/S
SUKHNAG
ARI STAPLE
EMBROIDERY IC LTD. (J&K) with Designer Pankaj Arora and artisans. All the prototypes were checked and appreciated by the Officials.
: Designer at the workshop with the Artisans. : Artisans showing their work and getting feedback from the officials.
LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP STAPLE EMBROIDERY CRAFT DATE-06-09-2012 to 20-09-2012 VENUE- VILLAGE- Lahorie Check Distt. Badgam (J&K), INDIA
c 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15
PRODUCT NAME SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE SUIT PIECE STOLE
PRODUCT CODE PA/SASEL/12-01 PA/SASEL/12-02 PA/SASEL/12-03 PA/SASEL/12-04 PA/SASEL/12-05 PA/SASEL/12-06 PA/SASEL/12-07 PA/SASEL/12-08 PA/SASEL/12-09 PA/SASEL/12-10 PA/SASEL/12-11 PA/SASEL/12-12 PA/SASEL/12-13 PA/SASEL/12-14 PA/SASEL/12-15
SIZE/ INCH 22X 41 23X 42 22X 40 20X 42 21X 42 21X 42 19X 42 21X 42 22X 43 22X 41 20X 42 21X 42 22X 41 21X 42 X
The crafts persons were talented and practicing it, as the products made out of this craft is used in everyday workout. The crafts persons practicing the art for the household needs and for some small business point. There products of concerned and the designs were of limited stock,. The ultimate story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices to be built up among the artisans to enable them to put an overall performance on the crafts to ensure end users satisfaction. The result of the survey reveals the facts, can be summarized as GEOGRAPHICAL IMPORTANCEThe crafts persons at Distt.- Budgam practicing the craft are too lucky compare to others, as the area is concerned and accessibility to connect internationally & Domestic market and its Easy to get the Required Raw Material and Equipment. SKILLSThe crafts persons were talented and practicing it as earning from this plays a major part for their bread & butter. The crafts persons practicing, it just for the sake of their survival not for their growth, business. There products of concerned and the designs were limited, as they don't have exposure to the outer world of competition. They are the skilled but raw, easily can be mould into any shape of desire. It can be underlined as mention below Practiced by females of the family, Lack of innovation, Lack the Knowledge of trend due to market exposures. Limited product range and designs.
They don't know the techniques to cure, processing & finishing. They don't have the proper marketing channel & costing method
They are not exploring the craft due to lack of options. The ultimate story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices could be built up among the artisans, to enable them to put an overall performance on the crafts to ensure end users satisfaction. PRODUCT CONCEPTPrior to start the workshop I made the detail survey of the area to know about the present status of the craft and its practitioners so that accordingly I can make the planning process. The survey reveals the basic facts that the product range of the crafts in the market is very limited and they doing it as per there experience. It means most of them practicing it as per the local market and the product range they are used to get in touched were of the kind they were used to make early days. They were still playing with those certain options only because lack of exposure. They don't experimenting and not creating the new possibilities i.e. market and products, as they don't have proper market exposure so practicing the same since they were familiar with and as products concerned they were still at the beginning phase in spite of all the expertisement in the craft. By rectifying the certain facts mention below goals can be achieve Proper planning Organized production
Adaptability as per the market requirement Reasonable wages Marketing exposure Basic facilities
SUGGESTIONSAs a designer, I want to convey the message that to promoting Indian handicrafts by developing handicrafts artisan cluster and cells into professionally managed and self reliant community enterprises on the principles of affective member participation and Mutual Corporation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons leading their empowerment. Due to limited raw material provided by concerned organization design and prototypes development process got affected otherwise more could be done. The main objective should be as Provided adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisan's access to a larger market segment, both domestic and international.
Ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production and marketing process for optimal growth in human resource, production, and income. Make empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic & overseas markets. Upgrade artisan's skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value-added items. Create centers of excellence (based on the philosophy of collective enterprises) with well integrated linkages. At last I want to wish the artisans very all the luck for their future. Pankaj Arora (Designe r, NIFT)
New Elements AddedKeeping in mind the growing interest all over the world in Particular Craft and especially the emergence of ethnicity I have tried to design a few garments without moving from the traditional elements, color combinations and the creative trends in textile. Idea of regenerate the Craft and new few stitches were explored. The focus was to teach them making their own patterns and accessories, not only will allow artisans to express their personal style but also
teach them the importance of colors and details and tell them if these all elements well coordinated can add grace to design and product. The focus was to teach them how to create design patterns from an inspiration. Give it appropriate color combinations and use ideal Stitches to enhance the pattern and the basic steps of creating a design pattern for work by taking inspiration from the beautiful things presents in the nature, books, surroundings and pictures etc. Successful design incorporates the use of the principles and elements to serve the designer's purpose and visual goals. There is no rule for their use, but may be directed by intent. The designer's purpose drives the decisions made to achieve appropriate scale, good proportion, as well as the degree of harmony between all the elements achieved through the sensitive balance of variety and unity. Harmony in design is using the same shape or similar shapes for the components of a project like a house. When objects like furniture in room look like these belong together, the objects are in harmony. There are several principles of design that are as variable as ones perception. The sense of designs maturity depends upon the surroundings. The principles of design consist of- repetition, gradation, rhythm, radiation, contrast, dominance (emphasis), proportion, scale, balance, harmony, unity, and adequate design functionality. The basic factor that plays important role in creating and implementing the concept is revisualization of the end product. Color harmony is using the same set of colors of a color palette with a limited number of colors, and using the same or similar color patterns on the components (like a table and couch) of a project help unify the space. Harmony and unity in design generally or in many cases makes the design (like a room in a house) look more visually appealing. These concepts and elements drive all intentional
design strategies. Awareness of the elements and principles is the first step in creating successful visual compositions. After survey I found the Hand Embroidery craft is very rich in terms of utility, design, color and pattern. But there is always chance of improvement. I tried to introduce new elements in design without harming the soul of the craft. PROGRESS CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT A brief report on progress of the workshop and prototype development FIRST PHASE (06st Sep. 09th Sep. 2012) : Workshop got inaugurated, than a brief introduction regarding the purpose of the workshop and whole planning regarding the work discussed. After inaugural speech to understand the skills level of craft women, Plain fabric swatches distributed to the women to know their knowledge and skill about the craft. Then design of four set of the prototypes were taught & imprisoned on respective base material on which prototypes suppose to get developed with all the details. Placements of the designs on base material got done and were distributed among them. Work started on respective prototypes at the same time. SECOND PHASE (10th Sep. 13th Sep. 2012) : One set of the four prototypes got completed. At the end of this phase 13 th Sep. 2012, other Seven set of designs of prototypes were got Printed onto the respective base material.
Rest of the prototypes were traced and embroidered as per the given Designs and were ready for the stitching by the 18th July. So by the 18th of the July almost all prototypes were stitched. FOURTH PHASE (19th Sept. TO 20th Sept. 2012) : All the prototypes developed were finished and Packed as per the Instructions. ACHIEVEMENTS 0n commencement of the workshop, the trainees were introduced with: Methods of transferring a design. Presentation and care of the craft. Tools and material used. Craft and its possibilities. Existence of the craft and its importance towards its heritage culture. Importance of colors in craft. Importance of the quality of material to be used. Importance of the design and their use. To embellish them with the modern look.
Under the guidance on day-to-day basis the trainees learnt mastering giving various shape to the prototypes. As the workshop processed, the trainees were also given practical training and the use & implementation of various designs & techniques.
The 15 days workshop 06th September 2012 to 20th September 2012 with the artisans of SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD.(J&K) at Village- Lahorie Check Distt. Badgam has been a workshop with the difference. The work produced during the workshop has emerged well. The collective effort of artisans and the designer reveals the great potential. It is very hearting to see the entire process, from the conception of designs sketching Stitches, selection of color has been highly interactive one. And everybody learned from every moment of it .The product designed during the workshop was done with the aim of finding new buyers, will give more benefit to the artisans. Look for the product which has a aesthetic beauty with Indian touch, especially the Foreign customers. Key factor for the success of the workshop was due to main focus on the Designing, Highly decorative, Focus on the neatness of the Hook work Finish is also one of the key features which led to its successes. Excellent colors election according to the prototype. Quality of Raw Material
The product created range for Garments, accessories . These qualify the design brief, which had required the designer to focus on the products. The idea was to
have prototype with the quality and difference, and that can be produced faster without any technical difficulty and have a fancy look. Under the guidance on day-to-day basis the trainees learnt mastering & tailoring giving various shape to the prototypes. As the workshop processed, the trainees were also given practical training and the use & implementation of various designs & techniques.
During the workshop 30 Artisans had participated and benefited from this workshop. Mr. Pankaj Arora Designer Empanelled with the O/o the Development Commissioner (Handicraft) Ministry of Textile, Govt. of India, New Delhi 66 on the specific Hand Embroidery Craft was engaged as Designer who conducted the workshop sincerely. In all 30 Prototypes (2 sets) on STAPLE Hand Embroidery craft were developed. During the workshop and one set of prototype has been deposited with the Assistant Director Which Receipt obtained and enclosed along with audited account of expenditure. The new Product that emerged was very well accepted by the artisans as well as market experts. The simplicity of Designs and effectiveness in Terms of value addition was appreciated. The Design is suitable for any Urban & Foreign Market. Therefore, in view of the above facts the aims and objectives with which the Design & Technical Development Workshop was sanctioned have been successfully achieved.
Photographs of Workshop:
ConclusionThe 15 (fifteen) days workshop with the crafts women of SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD.(J&K) @ Lahorie Check, Badgam, Kashmir, has very vast culture in Hand work .The Womens Specially are very dedicated to learn the craft and adopting it to make some livings for their families. Cluster offer very nice color sense and colorful stitches with traditional patterns reflecting their life style. The work that has emerged, through the collective effort of the crafts women, N.G.O. team, and the Designer, reveals the great potentials that the traditional craft of Crochet work practiced by the women has. After suffering from so much of Geographic and Climatic difficulties, products created by the crafts women, supposedly low skilled but are neat and well executed and have made us rethink about their potential. It is heartening to see that the entire process, from the conception of the designs, to tracing them, cutting, and then filling and finishing
the product, has been highly participatory one, and everybody enjoyed every moments of it.