ENGINE 1. DISMANTLINGANDREASSEMBLY WITHOUTREMOVING ENGINE FROM FRAME 1.l.

Pistons

The gudgeon

pin

is mounted

in a needle-roller

bearing.

Therefore

do not remo-

ve the pistons without using special tools to prevent .someof the needles from droppingout and falling into the engine where they ere bound to cause serious
d8J11age and :from which wing proce~ure is they .cen be wi thdraWD only after a dismantling. The follorec.ommended:

A:fter having removed the cylinders, plug the holeS'thus uncovered in the crankcase. Remove piston rings and then the circlips of gudgeon pins using special pliers. Put the S-44 gudgeon pin &xtractor and/or the S-8B gudgeon pin drift ready to hand. Slide the S-88 insert .into the hole in the piston and then thread the S-87 press-out pin into the insert (Fig.8). Place the 3-44 extractor in position

Fig.No.8

Pressing

out gudgeon pins

on the piston and insert its extension piece into the S-87 press-out pin. This pin has to be located so that its land is turned toward the cylinder centre bolt. Acting on the S-44 extractor or S-86 drift, push the S-87 press-out pin till its collar ir flueh with the piston hole for the gudgeon pin CFig.9). Remove the extractor end take out carefully the S-87 press-out pin. Disengage the piston from the connectingrodsmall end and use a length of locking wire to secure the insert remaining between the needles in the eme1l end together with the original shims behind the needles against felling out (Fig.lO).

- 15 -

,h

,',

'I! I" I

'1 1 "

Fig.No.9
iI' "1' 11,1

~es~ing

out pistons

I~

'~
,1 1

'i'l

b
VI,I 1:,[

,j I I'
I I"
",

1,1 1I ,!

Ini

i[

Fig.No.lO

Securing small-end bearing

- 16 -'

,I

Before rea88embly make aure that 811 the neaCrie ~llft'8 (2:rlJ..a: .. in: a total amount o:t 28 :tor one c.oDD8etiDg rod) and ehian in pGtri.:tiG-tI.iZ1 the ~onnacting-rod 811811 end. 8-88 insert muat be inside the bearing.. Pro.eMd 7~ caret'l1lly when re:titti~ the piston on to the connecting rod ~ter tIZ1l.a.drlng ti1e lock wire to prevent the Shims and needle rollers tro. :talling into the ~~. Likewise take care not to mix up the pistons the arrowmust point in the ~orward direction, and the piston :torthe left-hand cylindermust bear the stamped letter

"LO.and for the righthand cylinder the letter "P". To press home the gudge~n pins
use again the S-44 extractor with the 5-87 press-out pin or the S-86 drift.

Remember that the relieving holes of the gcdgeon pins must be turned toward the outer side. Lock the gudgeon pins in position with the respective circlipswith

their.

Slightly outward bent ends pointing away from the gudgeon pin. . Before installing new pistons, make sure that. they are of the correct grading,

cylinders. A new piston installed into an already slightly worn cylinder can be a closer fit, for instance,piston "B" into the cylinder "A" see Table .

i.e.

A, B or C, with regard to the individual

3.

I !

TABLE OF GUDGEON PIN BEARING ASSEMBLIES Table 2

Connecting rod Gudgeon pin blue 15.994+15.997 Needle roller white 1.994+1.996 1.993+1.995 blue 19.998+20.002 red 15.997+16.000 blue.
,..

Clearance

red
19.994+19.998

0.005-+D.016
0.007 -+D .018

white 1.994+1.996 1.993+1.995 blue 1.996+1.998 1.995+1.997. 0.006-+D.017 0.008+0.019 0.005+0.016 '0.007+0.018

15.994+15.997 .

white 20.002+20.006

red 15.997+16.000 blue 15.994+15.997

blue 1.996+1.998 1995+1.997 red 1.998+2.000 1.997+1.999 0.006+0.017 0.008+0.019 0.005-+D.016

0 .00'7 a.f'\ ",

yellow 20.006+20.010

red 15.997+16.000

red 1.998+ 2.000 1.997+1.999 0.006+0.017 0.OO8-+D.019

the piston skirt is perfectlY parallel with the cylinder liner (that the piston and cy1inde are in perfect 'alignment) make the following check before installing piston rings on the piston. Fit tentatively the cylinders on the pistons(withoutpietonrings) and rotate t~e crank mechanism by . turning the dynamo rotor to see-whether there is an adequate clearance between the cylinder liner and piston both in the piston T.D.C. and B.D.C. If the piston leans against one side and returns to this position after forcing it away, it is neeeseary to remove the cylinder and.to bend carefully the connecting rod with the piston to the oppoeite side. This cylinder and piston aligning ~rocedure is called the connecting rod angle setting. A

'1'0assure

yourself

that

- 17 -

I 1 "'""--

In the setting is correct, the piston clearance in the cylinder liner must be equal on either side and there must be no sticking. For reboring, the cylinders must be clampe~ to their"bearing surface to ensure the required perpendicularity~ Measure every cyliI!der after reboring and determine its new grading enabling the use of a correct piston. Graning diameters (bores) for rebored cylinders are to be found in Table 4.

D3

0,015+0,040

OVAL
0,085';'0,115
M ~ M M

Table

- GRADING OF PISTONS
normal A B C A B C A B C D,-O.Ol 57,95 57,96 57.97
"

Dpaation :ji9 231 011 550 L (661-090202) R 319 231 011 540 (661-090203) L 319 231 011 551 (661-090212 R 319 231 011 541 (661-090213) L 319 231 011 552 (661-090222). R 314 231 011 542 (661-090223) L 319 231 011 553 (661-090232) R 319 231 011 543 (661-090233)
.

D2-o.01 57.925 57.935 57.945 58.175 58.185 58.195 58.425 58.435 58.445 58.675 58.685 58.695 58425 58.935 58.945

D.-O.Ol 57.71 57.72 57.73 57.96 57.97 57.98 58.21 58.22 58.23 58.46 58.47 58.48 58.71 58.72 58.73

1st rebore

58.20 58.21 58.22 58.45 58.46 58.47 58.70 58.71 58.72 58.95 58,96 58.97

2nd

rebore

A B 3rd rebore C
-

319 231 011 554

L (661-090242) 319 231 011 544 R (661-090243)

A B 4th rebore C

Only basic dimensions are the pistons.

given

in this

table

because

of the

intricate

shape

of

A
- 18 -

B1D3

Table 4

GRADINGOF CYLINDERS Dl + 0.01 D2 + 0.02 58 58.01 58'.02 58.25 58.26 58.27 58.50 58.51
58.52

DJ

+ 0.02 0.01
'"'

Normal

A B C A B C

58 '58.01 58.02 58.25 58.26 58.27 5850 58.51

58.52

58 58.01 58.02 58.25 58.26 58.27 58.50 58.51

58.52
.

1st

rebore

t
i!

A
2nd rebore
"

B
C

"
~ ...
i"'

",

3rd rebore

A B C A

58.75 58.76 58.77 59.00 59.01 59.02

.

58.75
58.76 58.77 59.00 59.01 59.02

58 75 58.76 58.77 59.00 59.01 59.02

.!!

4th rebore

B
C'

Note:

The manufacturer miliimeter diameter suitable

ships

spare

(replacement)

cylinders

exclusively

of basic the {of

(standard) dimension~. ~~mension~ ~pecified in the tab~e refer only to rebores! For various reasons 1t 18 ve~ d1fficult to rebore cy11nders to hundredths of
tolerances and so 1t is necessary to measure .(at several poin1;s) of the cylinder bore after reboring and to find the matching piston grading) on the basis of the measurements. Do not forget to change

'i

For new as well as overhauled engines (with rebored cylinders) it is possible to use the right-hand arid left-hand cylinders of a different gradi~ (but not of different rebo.re classesi, naturally with due regard to the respect1ve grading classes of pistons matched with the cylinders.'Ifthe rebore is somewhere between
the two grading classes, for instance 58.27 mm, it is possible to use either the

correspondingly.

the. cylinder

grading

merki~

.on the cylinder

upper surface.

','

class "B" or;"C" piston. With the class "B".piston, the runnung-in is quicker while the possibility of piston knicking in a cold engine is reduced whed using

th~ class

"C~

piston.

'

" - 19 -

1. 2 ~U1',.ttor

...

TIt. .'f:7. flret' to' do- before adjusting the car.burettor is to see whether the of the intake ai's8! of" the' main petrol jei correspo'nds to the design (version) 8i'1.uC1.r~, On-motor cyc1'e8' with a noise damping. insert in the inlet of the intake atT-enc..-, th8" Main jet' must be of a smaller size. Che.ck the main jet size 81so when'inat'8lling,' s' ne.. carburettor. if'oia. in' 4&e111&o1s. a:t+1. 84\ 84""3.:. Oi'Imast:e-r 84', 82' HbU:end' OtlDrafft&r,
:11 !,:~ li1;

Carburettor'

Main jet

IDling jet 55 55

Needle position

Fast.. idling scres

1/2
.

2002

2926

SBDb
.

115 92 115
,- 92

4th Running-in

3rd aft er"

2926-SBDb 2001 2~"2-6:, SBDMb' 27'83" r. Xi

55
55

98

55

'3rd 2nd 4th 3rd 3r(\ 2nd '3rd 2nd

running-in after" running-in af'ter running-in af'ter " runni112-in after if

'!

0,5--1,5 1/2 0,5-1,5

1/2 0,5..1,5 1/2 0,5-1,5 1/2 0,5..1,5

x R8'p"l'8eement'carburettors are' not shipped as uni ~s. If necessary, tors:, sp:e'cit'ied' in' the table with different jets.
~.): }>b:i1Irar,y. ~r:ansllli'ssion Remo.v..' the' kickst'ar.ter lever (after having turned it to the

:f'it carburet-

I'
f
.
.

!:
.~ . .

ii~'

starting

posi-

~:otil and" the-n 'two" acrews'. hOlding 11-es"not' been drained before, then, v4",";~e'" cover. by prizing

down the left-hand crankcase put a sui table vessel under Remove the clutch

cover. If' the oil the cover and remounlock the

~
' '.
.
.

.. I'jll

,
'

nut' end' sndg the ~66 pi-lot plate into the clutch centre dresser. '" Use' the~ "T9"'tubular: spanner to remove the M 12 nut (Fig.ll) and the "24 spanner to' re1Qo.V8",th8" nut' of'the:

.'

mmainshaft

of off

carefully.

plates,

I'~

drum" puIJ:: 0- the.. primary sprocket using the 5-85 puJ.ler (Fig.l), and remove it

primary sprocket

(Fig~2).

Lift

out the clutch

centre

I' ~' .

:1

'11'

!~~

ill

, I"
I:~
.,W~

toge't1te-r.' wt'th' the;, c~ain and clutch chain wheel (toothed arum) from the shafts. (Fi:g..,14~".If:' the" primary sprocket is a too tight fit on the taper, tension the puD."er' 8S'!much 8S"pO'BBibl'e'and' tap the head of the puller bo1t. If even this proce'dUr:'e' :ta:i:18'i to' :fr8'e' the' sprocket, heat up carefully' its ~ub with a flame to
malt it': e-xpsnd' suf'ftci'ently' for the- sprocket to be pulled off easily.
-

rh: t~ JII8-uori~ o-r' C'8S'8S, it i-e possib'le to remove the clutch chain whe-el wiithl).~t'.pull1.ugl of~ th'e' primary sprocket (if the chain has already been somewhat 8tret~lted".- PU81tend' puI],; t'ti-e' alutch chain wheel several times on the mainsh~ ulI'tia:. ~.. di'St'ance~ s-l:.e-eve; o-f' the- chain, wheel slides out sutf'iciently t~ be grabbed and: p:u1t1:e:d' out.. At'. a, conv.eni'ent inclinati'on of the clutch chain\Yheel, the slacken-e4tprl'mar.:Y'c1tstn- Clm be' pulled over- the teeth 'of the primary sprocket.

., "...

20

IIIIIiiI

ci1!

Fig.No.

11

Fig.No.12

- 21i L

:' ," ~ ,I I' 'd j

I'

~
'9

[i

;1

1
i: 1

Fig.No.l3 Ext~adtion of primary sprocket

Reaeeembly:
~t the primary sprocket on the cleaned and dried cranksheft taper and thread the shim, epacer and, provisionally, the clutch chain wheel on the gearbox mainshaft. Apply a steel ruler to the flanks of the sprocket and clutch chain wheel at the point of the toothing to make sure that they form a single plane, which is important with regard to the service life of the primary transmission chain and the noise of the primary transmission. Correct any deviations by putting steel shims of a suitable thickness on the maindshaft between the bearing and bearing shim of the clutch chain wheel. After having completed the parallelity check,

remove again the clutch chain wheel.

Before reinstalling the starting mechanism! check the shaft seal for condition. Install the starting mechanism with the starter shaft turned to the starting position. Fit the sprocket and the clutch chain wheel with the primary transmission chainin position on them on to the crankshaft taper and mainshaft. Slip .the clutch centre drum on the mainshaf't together with its lock washer. Fasten now the clutch centre drum with the respective nut and lock the washer. 'Tighten the nut of the primary sprocket on the crankshaft. During these operations use the S-66 pilot plate. Insert now alternately the friction and steel clutch plates while making sure that the clutch plate dogs enter freely into ~he slote in the'clutch chain wheel. When installing new clutch plates, measure first their total thickneSs which should be between 18.25 and 19 mm for the five plates. Install the oiled
. '

clutch release rod with disk into the mainshaft, locate the pressure plate with springs, insert the respective washers above the springs, and then compress the springs over the washers one after the other using a "10" lock pins above the washers. spanner while slipping

- 22 -

Fig.No.14

Removing primary transmission

Smear with motor grease the cleaned and undamaged mating surface of the crankcase and place thereon the undamaged, preferably new, gasket. Smear with oil the starter shaft and reinstall the ~eft-hand crankcaee(~over. Tighten properly its M 8 fastening screws. Refit the kickstarter leve~ and test gear shifting and

starting.
1.4 Speedometer Drive Remove the primary transmiss~on

'

as described in chapter 1.3. Remove the M 6

screw from the bottom part of the engine, holding down the speedometer drive end piece. Push the speedometer drive out of the engiqe. In the bottom part of the left-hand crankcase half there is a boss in which the speedometer drive is secu.. ra1y heid by a grub screw. Remove this grub screw and use a ro<i (preferably an aluminium rod) to drive the speedometer drive body out of the crankcase together with its packing ring. When reinstalling the speedometer drive, slip ~ new packing ring (8x16x7) to the drive shaft so that the ring spring points inside the engine. Then use e tube or a tubular spanner with an outside diameter of 15 mm to tap home carefully the speedometer drive into its mounting (pushing the tube'or tubular spenner through the hole in the crankcase) till the slot on the surface of the drive coincides with the threaded hole for the grub screw in the crankcase. Tighten the grub screw and secure it from working loose by a centre punch. Then proceed with the re assembly of the primary transmission &S described in' cha~ter 1.3.
.. 23 ..

1.5 KickatarterReturn

SDrin

The kickatarter return spring cen be replecea with e new one without rellloYing

the clutch chain wheel (primary transmis8ion).'

Drain the oil from the gearbox or put the motor cycle OD its ript

eide after

removing the battery.

Remove the kicksterter lever and pu'eh the etarter eha:tt inward While turning it to the starting poei t,ion. Reaaovethe 1e:tt-handcrankcase cover, turn the etarter

and slide it outotits mounting. Withdraw the ,ietarter quaclrant together with the sprlng.' , Install the new spring so that one end 01' it is sa1'e17'retainea by the pin provided for this purpose in the craIikcase. Thread the other end into the h~le in the quadrant and turn the quadrant so that it can snap into the oon.ct, position, i.e. withthe centre of its hole aligned with the centre 01' the hole in the starter dog. Then push in the starter shaft- (with the riturnepring)Whil. turning it to the etarting position, i.e. c10c1qriae, in which the starting _chaniaID. holds together. This job requires a certain amount ot:" skill. - A simplar thoug more time , . consuming procedure is the replacement q1' the apring &:tter the remo~a1 01' the see chapter 1.3. complete primary transmission
. ,

shaft antic1~ckwise,

1.6 Shifter

Shaft with Driving

Lug and Pawls transmission meohanis.

First remove the primary

aee chapter.1.3.

Rotat.

[,

~g.~0.15

Removing shitter

shaft

- 24y..

slightly the starter shaft and withdraw it together with the starting quadrant and..return spring. Remove the bracket with the clutch release mechanism (chapter 1.8), drive out (upward) the pin fastening the clutch release cam on to the shaft, jig between the shifter gate and lift off the cam. Insert the S-63 pawlretaining and the pawls and push carefully the shifter shaft with the driving lug and pawls

from its mounting (Fig.15).

When reassembling the mechanism rest the 5-63 pawl retaining jig on the pawls of the driving lug. Remember that the driving lug pin must be inserted correctly between the return springs in the shifter gate. For further reassembly reverse

the described dismantling procedure (1.6).

1.7 DynS1l1O cables from the dynamo. Remove two M 6 screws ("10" spanner) holding do?'D the at ator, and slide out "the stator. After lifting it off, it is recommended to remove fasteners of the carbon brushes and to withdraw the brushes from their guides to prevent their being damaged during
off the puller to pull

Re~ove the right-hand

crankcase

cover and disconnect

reassembly.
the aid of the rotor

R&mOve the M 6 screwhol~ing

a screwdriver the shaft and inserted under off (Fig.16). put hand

down the
it. Use

rotor

and lift
rotor

cam with

the S-48

Put the rotor into thestator,

it cannot get damaged or,

away the dynamo in a safe place where

it over for repair. dynamo. First reinstall

i~ necessary,

Reverse the described procedure when reinstalling the

the rotor including a too the great cam and then (the refit the stator. torque screws with force recommended

Do not is 0.6

tighten kpm)

the stator

es this would

Fig.No.16 Pulling

dynamo rotor

off the shaft

- 25 ~

result in distorting the contact-breaker base plate. Slip brushes holder minding their correct position. If the brushes are shorter replace theillri th ne.. ones, Lock the brushes in posi.tion using the spring tasteners (clips). Saturate the cam wiper felt with grease not to 8pp1;rtoo much gre~se which could then ap1ash or flow down contact-bre.er points.Final1y adjust the ignition advance and the point gap. Tbis adjustment i8 described' in a separate chapte~. 1.8 Dec1utchiqp: Meohanism

into the brueh than 8 DID, respective but be careful between the contact-breaker

Iiemove the brake pedal or 8crew ott the winged nut of the ~ear brake cable. Remove the right-hand cover of the engine (crankcase), loosen the I screw tastening thebowden cable in tbec1_, and pull out the cable. Use "10" spanner to remove three screW,s attaching the bracket of' the dec1utQhing mechanism to the crarikca:se right-hand side, and take off the bracket.
, ,

Reverse thi;sprocedure
Spl'ocket

when reinstalling

the declutching mechanism.

1.9SecondeJ'Y
[i

'
;'

'
i!i
,
,

!! i" ",.

,i
"

see chapter 1.8. Detaoh the ront sleeves Remove the dec1utohing mechanism of the. rubber chain guards snd remove the outer cover of' the secondary sprocket (Fig.17).

II!I(

,Ir I.I I
,

'I!
':I

I'
'11111

',1 1
,

Ii
"

11,.,

Fig.Ho.17

Removing se CO n4a.ry sprocket ,

cover '

Unlock the lock washer anI! 8Crew ott the... nut u8ilig the S-68 tUbular wrench., H~w slide the secondary sp'l'Ooket with the slackened chain end inIu~r cover out ot its mo"unting. It is not necessary to disconnect the chain. Reverse this procedure when reinstalling the secondary sprocket.

WarningI

'

'

Proceed ver7 carefully when reinstalling the secondary sprocket. NQresistance IDUstbe felt when s1ipping it on the splines. When driving' it home forcibly you run the riek of moving thebem:ing into the crankcase in spi 1;e ot it8b.~ng protected against" normal stressing by a thrust shim. Even 8 slight pushing of' the . :bearinginto the crankcase is bound to result in a 8erio~s damage to the shiner tOMS and gears ~t the gearbox.

- 26 -

:~

2.

CRANKC ASE DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBL Y (with engine removed from frame) Removing After Engine having plugs. from removed Shut Frame the off seat~ the disconnect fuel cock,

2.1

off

the

spark

cables free the front part of the fuel tank.

the battery fuse and pull

by pushing out the hold-down springand 8wir~ up the fuel tank. Screw.off the carburettor cap and withdraw the throttle cable with the slidir~ throttle valve. Remove the nuts (hollow screws) of the exhaust pipes (elbows), swing the exhaust pipes out of the way, and remove the M 8 screw fastening the front part of the left-hand exhaust silence..:.'. Then loosen t.wo M 8 screws of the left-hand exhaust silencer rear bracket to facilitate t~e removal of the footrests ~ie bolt used also BS the engine clamping bolt. Remove the grub screw of the speedometer drive at the engine and withdraw the ~exible shaft from the engine. Remove the righthand crankcase cover and disconnect the.leads from the dynamo. Remove the dynamo - see chapter 1.7. Disconnect the clutch cable from the hand-controlled clutch release mechanism snd remove the bracket of the declutching mechanism. After having detached the front sleeves of the rubber chain guards remove the outer cover of the secondary sprocket and unlock the sprocket nut. Slecken the rear wheel spindle and chain tensioners, and move the real'wheel in the forward direction as far as it will go. Using the S-68 tubular wrench screw off the sprocket nut. Now that the chain is slack, it is possible to withdraw the secondary sprockp+ with the chain and inner cover from its ~ounting without disconnecting the chain. Disconnebt the lead (cable) from the neutral terminal (disconnect the connector position

on latest
i.nthe

models). Remove all 8~rews Standing on the left-hand the exhaust hand. I,ift

and

bolts of

holding the

the engine in
hold the

frame.

side

machine,

I ii r'
i

engine bYJ~he the kickst'arter not

right-hand cyli.nder at lever with the right

port with the left hand and by the front end of the engine as Be careful

~ u

,,,

high as possible and pull it leftward out of the frame by its .rear end. to damage the surface finish of the machine. When reinstalling the engine into the frame, tension the tighten first transmission the rear

"
1

'.

,. ,

bolts

I ,. '.1",

and then the screws holding down the front .end of the engine. with oil, adjust the clutch, and secondary

Fill the gearbox chain.

I:

2.2 Basic Dismantlin~

Clamp the front end of the engine into the jaws of a vice so as to have access to the engine left-hand side. Remove. tl,e carburettor, the primary transmission gear, cylinder heads, cylinder, and pistons. Remove the thirteen M 6 screws bolting together and remove the crankcase from the vice.
both

I. ,
I

'

halves of the crankcase

I I " ! i [
!

2.3 Splitting

the Engine

Using the 8-64 drift drive the front centre bush and the rear guide pin from the left-hand side of the crankcase into its right-hand side (Fig.18).

Screw the 5-62 separating press into the M 6 threads in the crankcase (for fastening th~ dynamo stator) and pull uniformly the right-i!snd half of the crankcase off the. bearings of the crankshaft mechanism with the connecting rod in the top position to enable ita passing through the centre cutout of the crankcase
(Fig.19).

- 27 -

I~ p il .i ~ I

"1I

'fJ (~i
,

i~
li ii

ii"

I~'
'" "
I

~. "

, '\'.

~i'

';"
"
,

.~<;
>C,

1 :1 1
11

,i!1

,,,
,,

,, ',.' 'j:1 1 ':'

1"1

,,

i'~ j
,

'!
,,
,

,1

; 1' ',', ~
,i
"

,.1

Fig.No.la

Driving out centering bush

~I!' ' i" 1

I
,

:r[
1

11

~ ,Ill
',

':i!
,

:
'

:1'\

'1'1 , tl' ;/i il' I, I,

"

i ",
, ,~il

If' the right-hend crankcase half' tends to jam during pulling off', tap lightly its. rear part (from the space of the carburettor) to assists the unit'orm pulling off'. As soon es there is a sufficient gap between the two crankcase halves withdrew the centre insert from between the cylinders to make way for the passage of the connect~~~ rod. Then complete the splitting ot' the ingine (B~paration of the halves) and lift off the right-hand halt'.

,,'"

:11 '1,1
11

- 28 -

');". ,~" ~>,

Fig.No.

19

..

- 29-

2.4 Gearbox, Gear Shi~tin~ Mechanism, Crank Mechanisa

In this stage of engine dismantling it is po8sible to carry out repairs ~f the gearbox and gear shifting mechanism without pressing the crank mechanism cut of the other hal~ of the crankcase. For, a thorough insp')ction of the gearbow remove the ehifter fork rod, the shifter forks, the layshaft, the gears, end use a so~t mallet to tap the ma~8baft

out of its bearing.

If it is necessary to remove also the shifter gata (incorrect ~ction

or

when a regrinding of the crankcase half is indicated) remove the four centrepunch secured screws end turn the gate to a position convenient tOr its withdrawing. When intending to remove also the crank mecha~i8m for inspection orrepeir, Bchrew the 8-62 separator by means of two M 8 screws into the threaded holes for schrews of the left-hand crankcase cover and prese the crank mechanism out of the left-hand cr~nkc8se half, again with the left-hand connecting rod in its top position (Fig.20). If bronze bUsh~B of the 1eyshaft are worn or sticking and they

p e', ~;i I!'

~1i '(:: ;(1 ,,'" KI

,,11

if
;;11

,." !iil 4' 'I: "'l

1

il~ ij~

H Ji' ""
~ji, ",n

,r~

I
Fig.No.20 Pressing crank mechanism out of.crankcaae left-hand helf have to be replaced, drive them with the drift inside the crankcase. To facilitate replacement of the bushes remove the speedometer drive from the crankcase lef.t-hand half - see chapter 1.4. Prees new bushes into the crankcase heated up to a temperature of 80 to 1000C snd then ream them to diameters

11::

I:

, " j ~!~

I;!

j~ '~

~
H "1)

specified in Table

5.

In the case the bush has been spinnin~( slipping) in the crankcase bore _i th the rotating shaft, it is necessary to use sn oversize bush snd ream the bore in the crankcase to the diameter speoified in Table 6. When installing the right-hand bush mind the correct position of the oil hole and oheck the through hole for clear passage after having presses in the bush. .

- 30 -

'~

Do not forget to clean thoroughly after their reeming. Dismantling and reaseembly 8 6eparate chapter. Table

the oil hole 2nd insides of the new bushes

of the crank mechanism itself are described in

6
HOLESFORLAYSHAFT BUSHESDJ CRANKC ASE
.Dia. 17 U 8 BUSH OUTSIDEDIAMETER 17 BUSH INSIDE DIAMETER

- 0.633 - 0.060

+ 0.011

+ 0.016 + grooving 14 H 8 + 0.027 + 0.000 OVERSIZE BUSHES HAVE THE OUTSIDE DI}TER + 0.1 Halves Matir~ Surfaces

2.5 Flatness Check of Crankcase

After having removed the old sealing compound from the meting surface and after degreesing the whole crankcase inspect the mating surfac~e ca~efully, and if' they are uneven, grind them on a lapping plate. A perfect flatness of the m2ting surfacesis important for preventing a leakage of oil between the crankcase halves. After grinding clean both crankcase hal~es ef grindi~ (laDDing) paste. Reinstall the shifter gate into the left-hand half, tighten firmly its M 5 fs'.'tening screws, and lock the screws in position b;y centre punching.
2.6 Rene~ing of Bearings snd Pac~ing Rin~s If it is necessary to rapiace worn or noisy besriI~s with new on&sl disreentle

packing ring in position. Hest up the cre.nkC8se

60 and 80C and use the S-71 bearing ext.ractor

first th$:crankcase and then use circlip pliers to remove the circlip holding the to a temperature somewhere between to c.rive out the bearing in the

directicn inside the crankcase. Thendrive the packing ring from the inner side

of the crankcase in the outward direction using the

removed the circlip and the. retaining

8-72 packing ring installer.

Proceed in a similar manner when driving out meinshaft bearings. After having shim. drive the bearing inward using a tube with a diameter equalling the outside diameter of the bearing. For driving out the bearing of the gear with hub follow again the same procedure. All bearings and

bushes have to be installed into crankcase halves heated up tu 8O-l20oC (preferably in an. .electric oven). Main (crankcshaft) beerings should be driven in from the inside flush with" the inner side of the crankcase by meens of the S-72 insttllle1', snd the mainshaft bearing and the bearing of the gear with hub as far as to the previously installed circlip. Reinstall the packing rings only after having reconnected both ?rankcase halves. After installing the mainshaft bearings, lock them in position with th~ r~spective shims to prevent their displacement.
2.6.1 Renewing of Packin~ Rin~e When comtempleting a replacement gear (1.3), the dynamo (1.7), or the of only the packing rings, it is not nacee-

88ry to remove the engine from the frame. Juat remove the primary transmission

secondary

sprocket

(1.9).

- 31 ~

Ji