Factory QC Manual - 高端服装品牌QC验货标准 (英文版)

Apparel Factory Quality Manual
Introduction
I) Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 7 Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts .......................................................................................... 7 Basic Quality Assurance Expectations .................................................................................................. 8 II) Fabric Inspection Program ................................................................................................10 Four Point System ................................................................................................................................. 11 Defect Classification .............................................................................................................................. 11 Fabric Inspection ................................................................................................................................... 12 Knit Bundle Inspections........................................................................................................................ 14 Color Program Basics ........................................................................................................................... 14 Run Cards and Shade Bands................................................................................................................ 15 Trim and Raw Material Inspections .................................................................................................... 16 III) Fabric Testing Basics .......................................................................................................18 Finished Garment Testing Summary .................................................................................................. 18 Testing Evaluation and Reporting ....................................................................................................... 19 IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections.................................................................................20 Monitoring Spreading and Cutting ..................................................................................................... 20 Important Points For Knits .................................................................................................................. 21 Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures ............................................................................. 21 Cutting Room Inspector Procedures ................................................................................................... 22 Manual Cutting Inspections ................................................................................................................. 22 CNC / Computer Cutting...................................................................................................................... 23 Bierrebi (B-R-B) .................................................................................................................................... 23 V) In-process Inspections......................................................................................................24 Inspector Procedures ............................................................................................................................ 24 Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process ........................................................................................ 25 VI) Additional Monitoring.......................................................................................................26 Seam Seal / Bonding .............................................................................................................................. 26 Measurement Procedures ..................................................................................................................... 27 Pre-Final Inspections ............................................................................................................................ 27
This is a confidential and proprietary information of Columbia Sportswear Company. You agree that you will not disclose this information to any third party or use it for any purpose other than on behalf of Columbia Sportswear. You have no right to use Columbias name or any of its trademarks, trade names, copyrights, patents, designs or other intellectual property except as set forth in writing by Columbia. April 2009
Introduction
Quality Reports and Daily Meeting ..................................................................................................... 27 Quality Standards ................................................................................................................................. 27 Display and Organizational Boards ..................................................................................................... 27 Recognition and Incentive Programs .................................................................................................. 28 Defect Codes........................................................................................................................................... 28 Pilot Lots ................................................................................................................................................ 28 Vestibule Training ................................................................................................................................. 28 VII) Final Inspection ...............................................................................................................29 VIII) The Final Audit Process .................................................................................................30 Random Sampling ................................................................................................................................. 30 Sampling Plans ...................................................................................................................................... 30 When to Inspect ..................................................................................................................................... 30 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection. ..................................................................................... 32 Using the How To Measure Manual ................................................................................................ 33 Re-Audits................................................................................................................................................ 33 VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program .............................................................................35 APPENDIXES ...........................................................................................................................36 I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy ...........................................................36 II) Down Product Compliance Overview ................................................................................40 CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements ......................................................................................................... 40 CCS 152 Down Suppliers ...................................................................................................................... 40 CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing .......................................................................................... 41 CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection Monitoring ............................. 42 CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing ......................................................................................................... 43 CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing ................................................................................. 43 CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring ............................................................................................................. 44
Introduction
(III) Finished Garment Testing ...............................................................................................54 Requirement .......................................................................................................................................... 54 Procedure ............................................................................................................................................... 54 Testing Evaluation and Reporting ....................................................................................................... 56 Torque / Skew ........................................................................................................................................ 57 (IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization.......................................................................60 CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition .................................................................................................. 60 CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures ..................................................................... 62 CCS 1803 Testing Requirements ......................................................................................................... 62 CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures ......................................................................... 63 CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures ............................................................. 64 CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting ................................................................................................ 65 CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples .................................................................................... 67 CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples ....................................................................... 68 CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples ........................................................................ 69 CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form .............................................................................................. 70 CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form.................................................................. 71 (V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements ..........................................................72 CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization ................................................................ 72 CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements .............................................................................. 73 CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing ............................................................ 73 CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures .............................................................. 74 CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements ..................................................... 75 CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures ............................................... 76 CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures ............................................................. 77 CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting ................................................................... 77 CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples ................................................................ 78 CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form ....................................................... 79 CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form ........................................................... 80
Introduction
(VI) Puckering Standards........................................................................................................81 Double Needle Puckering Standards ................................................................................................... 81 Single Needle Puckering Standards ..................................................................................................... 82 (VII) A & E Technical Bulletin .................................................................................................83 Sewing Machine Maintenance .............................................................................................................. 83
Sewing Maintenance Checklists ....................................................................................................................... 83 Preventative Maintenance................................................................................................................................. 83 Stitch Forming System ...................................................................................................................................... 84 Thread Handling System .................................................................................................................................. 84 Other Thread Handling Systems ...................................................................................................................... 86 Stitch & Seam Quality ....................................................................................................................................... 86
(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits .......................................................................................88 (IX) Packaging Compliance Audits ........................................................................................91 Inspection Procedures ........................................................................................................................... 92
Lot Integrity and Selection ............................................................................................................................... 92 Packaging Compliance Audits .......................................................................................................................... 92 Auditing the Cartons ......................................................................................................................................... 92 Auditing the Contents........................................................................................................................................ 92 Packaging Defects .............................................................................................................................................. 93 Audit Results ...................................................................................................................................................... 93 Audit Failures .................................................................................................................................................... 93
(X) QFI Introduction ................................................................................................................94 (XI) Form Examples.................................................................................................................96 Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example ................................................................................. 96 Fabric Inspection Sample Form ........................................................................................................... 97 Fabric Inspection Worksheet ............................................................................................................... 97 Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example ................................................................................. 98 Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example ................................................................................. 99 Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form........................................................................................ 100 Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example ........................................................................ 101 Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example ......................................................................................... 102 Re-Audit Requirements and Form .................................................................................................... 102 Inline Inspection Form Example........................................................................................................ 104
Introduction
I) Introduction
The Columbia Sportswear Apparel Factory Quality Control Manual summarizes our basic Quality Control program and expectations. It is primarily intended to help most factories to develop or improve their own, effective and efficient Quality Control Program. This is meant to be a tool to help promote continuous improvement and serve as an industry standard that would be accepted and be effective for all customers. As we begin to develop our supply base, we will continue to evolve this new manual to address stronger Quality Assurance principles and systems. At Columbia, we believe in moving to a model of partnership and building quality into our garments. Learning from mistakes, training, getting to the root cause and preventing problems from reoccurring is a fundamental principle that must be learned and practiced throughout the organization to show consistent, sustainable improvement. This especially applies at the factory level and is at the core of how weve built our Factory Quality Systems Manual. Accurate data gathering and effective monitoring to prevent passing problems onto the next area or internal customer are key elements of our program. If you have questions or need further assistance, please contact your local QC Area Office Manager.
Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts

Please address all Quality related matters to the appropriate Area Office:
Region Korea Taiwan Americas Vietnam India Sri Lanka Hong Kong Shanghai Beijing
Name Kevin Jung Jessie Sun Mitch Hammitt Hai Ho Michael Walmsley W.C. Kandamby Kenneth Ng Jimmy Fang Denny Tai
Phone 011 82 2540 0277 011 886 2 2698 4888 503 985 4804 84 8 3863 4649 Ext.846 011 91 44 2320098 94 11 4708616 011 852 2793 8978 011 8621 61200 552 852 2318 0012
Email Address kjung@columbia.com jsun@columbia.com mhammitt@columbia.com haih@columbia.com mwalmsley@columbia.com wajirak@columbia.com kng@columbia.com
jimmyf@columbia.com dtai@columbia.com
Introduction Basic Quality Assurance Expectations

A factory must have a strong foundational Quality System, supported by Senior Management and engrained in everyday practice and procedure. An effective and consistent Quality program would combine Quality Control inspection and monitoring throughout manufacturing, which we cover in this manual, with the Quality Assurance aspects of the following, which we will expand upon at a later date: Strong Management Controls: o Effective leadership and proper planning Support and structure for Quality Formalized training System to manage procedures o Development/design controls and validation System to manage manufacturing standards Process for testing raw materials and production; repeatability o Corrective and Preventive Action process Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP): o Equipment and facilities Housekeeping, organization, storage and production o Preventive maintenance o Materials control and organization o Production and process controls o Laboratory controls o Finished product approval/release and handling
Responsibility For Quality

Obviously, all parties, internal or external throughout the supply chain must contribute to and take responsibility for their role in overall product quality. Fabric mills must provide first quality fabric, on time, to the garment factories and must respond to problems found promptly and appropriately. It is the responsibility of the factory and the fabric mill to quickly resolve any issues with a fabric shipment. The CSC MR team may oversee this process but should not be expected to lead the resolution. The fact that CSC recommends a fabric mill is unrelated and irrelevant. Ultimately, it is the factorys responsibility to meet first quality and delivery expectations. Rarely ever should a problem progress through a factory without being detected internally. Swift corrective action and communication with CSC is imperative prior to cutting fabric. This requires a strong fabric inspection program. CSC strongly encourages garment factories to establish in-house labs and complete basic testing and inspect piece goods immediately upon receipt. Exceptions or extensions to CSC fabric standards and tolerances, including overrides of failed tests, can only be approved by the corporate MR and QA teams. The LO MR and QA Manager are responsible for gathering all necessary data and communicating promptly with corporate MR and QA for a quick, joint resolution.
Introduction
All of our factories are required to use the Four Point System to formally inspect incoming fabric prior to spreading/cutting. Factories will be required to keep scorecards to trend the performance of fabric mills and work closely with the mills for improvement. We are planning an automated process for many factories in the near future, which will be visible to CSC. To help reduce the probability of problems arriving at the factories, we are requesting the following at minimum be followed at the fabric mills: o Strong Quality Systems and a Continuous Improvement program in place to ensure quality and delivery excellence. We will soon begin a Mill Evaluation program to rate their programs. o The mill has become or is working to become a CSC Certified Testing Lab and has first bulk approved by a Certified Lab. o Quality monitoring and testing of each production run in-house; providing results to factories o Completes griege and finished goods inspections using the Four Point System; CSC allows a maximum of 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits and a maximum of 20 points per square yard average for all rolls within a lot. You should state these or your tighter expectations to the mill.
Fabric Inspection Program
II) Fabric Inspection Program

Top management should promote appropriate trending of your fabric mill performance levels and work closely with them in improvement and prevention efforts. Unless you have long histories with excellent performance and have certified your fabric mill partners, you are most likely in need of a strong fabric inspection program. This is a very important and effective aspect of an apparel quality control program. Randomly inspecting piece goods immediately upon receipt allows for quicker response to problem fabric. Columbia recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading based upon the Four Point System. Fabric Inspectors should be well trained and fully understand fabric defects and characteristics. Training of all factory inspectors should promote defect recognition consistency will suffer. Problematic The purpose of this section is to: o o o o o Provide a factory guideline for grading incoming fabric quality to be used by Columbia Sportswear. Assist the factory in improving their process to detect defects and prevent them from reaching finished garments. Provide a training frame work for inspectors to follow. Help with the communication between the factory and the vendor to resolve quality problems. Help develop a Vendor Quality Report and promote trending performance.
Area for Inspection: The inspection area should be open, clean and have good lighting over inspection frames and the work area. Fabric rolls should not be staged standing on end. The inspection should take place on a clean, properly lit, inspection machine that is appropriate for your fabric type and size. Equipment: Inspection frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or meter) counter, under carriage light to see through the fabric and over head light for inspection of the face of the fabric. Recommend the factory to have positive feed machine to avoid stretching the fabric. Many knits will require an appropriate inspection machine. Inspection speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards of fabric per minute (27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls. Viewing Distance: The inspection should be done from a distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) in order to have a view of the entire width of fabric.
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Lighting: The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles). Tools: The tools listed below are needed for the fabric inspection: o Measuring tape and defect stickers or swift-tacks o Scissors and protective folders or bags o Inspection form and defect standards o Fabric standards and access to light box
Four Point System

The Four-Point System is the system Columbia recommends for suppliers implementing a new piece goods inspection procedure or improving another method. The Four Point System defines defects by their severity and assigns penalty points appropriately. This scoring system is appropriate for greige or finished, knit or woven fabrics. o Amount to Inspect Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls and yardage in the shipment. To meet the requirement of both you may need to inspect more than 10% of the rolls or yardage. Selection of Rolls Randomly select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll per color should be inspected, then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received. All colors and dye lots should be included in this 10%, and more than 10% may be necessary. For problem fabric or trim vendors, the 10% should be increased and the inspection should be done by individual dye lots instead of on all colors.
Defect Classification
The Four-Point System classifies fabric defects as shown: o Penalty Points: All major defects regardless of direction, with the exception of holes should be scored as: Size of Defect Conversion Penalty 3 inches or less 0 to 7.5 cm. 1 point Over 3, but not over 6 inches 7.6 to 15 cm. 2 points Over 6, but not over 9 inches 15.1 to 22.5 cm. 3 points Over 9 inches 22.6 cm. and Over 4 points
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Allowable Points Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits. The lot per average roll should not be more than 20 points per square yard. Defect Classifications For a complete list of woven and knit fabric defects, as well as the finished garment defect codes, please refer to the Columbia Sportswear Defect Classifications Manual. o
Fabric Inspection
Major Defects Any defect severe enough that it would result in customer dissatisfaction, or generally classify the garment as a second, or of less quality. Minor Defects An imperfection that may or may not cause a second, depending upon its location in the finished garment. Factories should maintain ongoing defect recognition training to ensure consistency among all internal and external Inspectors. This includes having an updated fabric library. Other Considerations o Shade must match the approved standard from side to side and end to end o throughout the roll o Do not score minor defects, although you may want to mark them o Do not count more than a total of four points per one linear yard o Continuous running defects and others within one linear yard is only 4 points o All holes are considered 4 points Determining Pass/Fail Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits. The average per 100 square yards method is recommended to determine if a roll and lot passes or fails. To convert to points per sq yd, use: Total Pts in inspected rolls x 36 x 100 Width of Roll in inches x total yards inspected Example
Total Rolls Received: Total Yards Inspected at 10%: 40 400 Total Yards Received: Total Penalty Points Found: 4000 98
= Avg. Points per 100 Square Yards
Columbia Sportswear Standard: 1) 28 per 100 Sq Yards for any one roll 2) Average of rolls inspected within a lot is less than 20 pts Example: 98 x 100 x 36 = 352,800 = 16.96 points per 100 sq yards 52 x 400 20,800
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Inspection passed. Any single rolls with 28 or more pts would fail that roll. Failed rolls warrant further inspection of that color and possibly the shipment. In most cases, failed or problem lots should be 100% inspected to help facilitate the decision making process. The factory should immediately contact the fabric mill with their findings and alert the Columbia LO of any pending issues.
Primary Steps
Columbia Sportswear highly recommends all factories begin to test and inspect each fabric shipment immediately upon receipt. This process is an important step to prevent delays caused by poor fabric quality or an incorrect fabric delivery. A formal Fabric inspection process is required and substituting inspection while spreading is not appropriate and strongly discouraged. o o o o o Sort fabrics to allow for easy access and limited movement during and after the inspection process. Store fabric laying down not standing up on end. Do not store on uncovered wood pallets. Select a minimum of 10% of each color and lot based upon the total rolls and yardage. Check that the PO was filled correctly for color, quantity, style and hand. Cut a 5 x 5 inch square from the corner of each roll shipped to build a run card. Compare these to the standards under a light box using North Sky Daylight as the primary source and CWF as the secondary source as outlined by the Columbia color guidelines. On each roll inspected cut a swatch from the front end of the roll after mounting. It should be wide enough to cover all pattern repeats and be the full width of the roll. Compare this swatch from side to side and against the Approved Production Standard (APS) Use it to spot check throughout the roll, side to side and end to end, for shade consistency and slight variation. Inspection frames should also use North Sky Daylight bulbs. All rolls should be inspected for the correct width, length, bowing, skew/bias and tested per the Columbia Sportswear fabric testing requirements. Tolerances should be clearly stated for fabric width and weight by style and each roll should be verified. Mark defects at the selvedge to help Cutting and QC monitor these. Trend fabric mill performance closely and communicate often to promote improvement.
o o o o
Cost of the fabric will typically dictate if the fabric defects are cut out at inspection or later in spreading. Should any quality issues exist that may delay production or is potentially significant, please notify your local Columbia office Quality Manager and Merchandiser immediately. Please work directly with the mill to help determine appropriate action and resolution. Other Factories should specify the following on their PO: o o o o o Number of allowed splices within a roll and within the lot Tolerance or minimum length and width of acceptable rolls Points allowed for the Four Point System Inspection Should require the mill inspection and testing results along with the standard Rolls should be required to be covered in polyethylene, appropriately labeled and received in good condition.
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Fabric Inspection Program Knit Bundle Inspections

The Four Point System to determine acceptability still applies. o If delicate knits are involved, a normal inspection frame may stretch the fabric A tubular knit inspection machine allows both sides to be inspected Should be ran slow enough to see both sides Mirrors must be clean to notice defects o Knit bundles can be inspected on an appropriate table o Ensure inspection coverage of both sides for tubular knits
Color and Shade Control

A formal Color Control program is recommended and should include appropriate communication between the Fabric Mill, Trims Supplier, Factory and Retailer. The Piece Goods Inspection, Testing, Cutting Department, Production and QC Teams should work closely to ensure color and shade accuracy and consistency is met and maintained. Color and Shade Control Basics o Each fabric roll or bundle is checked for proper shade match o 6-8 wide swatch cut from edge to edge or wide enough to cover a repeat o Compared to standard under light box - usually 2 equal layers/plies o Use head in swatch to compare side-side and end to end of inspected rolls o Shade run cards kept to log all received rolls and used to improve mill performance o Keep approved, dated standard swatch, clean, covered and out of light Replace standard every 6-12 months if used frequently or worn Must represent actual fabric construction o Maintain a strong program to test annually for color perception using the Farnsworth Munsell 100 Hue Color Test Include on-going supply chain color calibration with your program Check Color personnel, Inspectors, managers with override ability, merchandisers, sales and others as appropriate o Certain fabrics such as synthetics may be more difficult to shade; identify a process
Color Program Basics

Equipment o Should have Macbeth Spectral Light II or III light box o Area should not be influenced by surrounding room lighting o Failed bulbs should be replaced in pairs; D65 is primary source, CWF secondary o Calibration should meet recommended intervals and be recorded o Top of unit fan must be kept clean and unobstructed o Light plexi-glass cover must be lint and dust free inside o Inside box must be free of paper, etc repaint w/ Munsel N7 if needed Viewing o View sample and standard side by side at 45 degree angle; use diagonal board o Observers line of sight should be at 90 degrees o Need a customer communication guide to explain issues and corrections E.g., Metamerisim; slightly bright and red in D65, reformulate to correct
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Proper Lighting o There should be 100 foot candles on inspection surfaces or, approximately 1075 lux o Inspection area lighting should be D65 the CS primary light source Post guidelines for various customers to avoid confusion o For critical shading: Minimize other light sources; sodium vapor or halogen lights Dove grey or Munsell N7 grey laminated table tops are ideal o Light height should be appropriate for area, usually 4-10 foot range
Approved Production Standard APS

The factory should receive an approved standard along with the test reports for each dye lot of first bulk production. They should be used to confirm color, shade, hand and aesthetics of the fabrics received. It may be necessary to also compare to previously established shade bands. Subsequent shipments of the same lot should be compared to the initial standard. Standards must be kept clean, covered and out of the light. They should be labeled with the fabric mill and factory names, PDM fabric number, color code, name and date. Standards should be replaced if dirty and worn.
Run Cards and Shade Bands

A Run Card should be kept for internal factory purposes and used to share performance results with fabric mills. Approved Run Cards and any subsequent Shade Bands need to be safely stored for 2 seasons for easy reference. The factory color/shade approval person (Colorist) should ensure consistency from roll to roll and dye lot to dye lot. Roll numbers should be identified. Swatches from each roll should be large enough for proper shading against the approved standards under a light box using D65 as the primary source and CMF as the secondary. Shade Bands should be established and furnished to the local LO Colorist for approval if questionable or problematic shade variation exists. The factory should ensure that the questionable swatch is truly representative of the majority of the roll. Variances in shade should be addressed by classifying each roll into groups and maintaining their integrity throughout production. Differences in shade at the garment stage should not be conspicuous enough to prevent them from being displayed side by side. The factory must determine how problem fabric can best be handled to meet their production needs without causing quality problems in the finished product.
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Trim and Raw Material Inspections Trim and Raw Material Inspections
Inspections should be completed on all incoming trim items including, all labels, snaps, buttons, zippers, Velcro, phemos, tapes, elastics, eyelets, patches, packing materials etc.. o A 1.5 AQL Normal or Tightened sampling should be used to accept individual quantities If a consignment is less than 500 pieces, inspect at least 10% randomly or a min of 20 pieces, whichever is higher o For rolls of trim, follow the principles of the Four Point System, inspecting a min. of 10% Inspections should include: o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM number, graphics o Compared to the approved sew-by sample o General quality and consistency o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity o Product Safety implications no metal is to be used in the packaging of materials and must be checked through a metal detector o All non confirming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored separately o Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and reaudited o Trim cards should be approved by Columbia Sportswear QA
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Trim and Raw Material Inspections Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection Trims/Findings/Raw Materials
(For Items of Quantity) MIL STD 105E / ANSI / ASQC Table 1-A
Recommended Inspection Level is .65.
Acceptable Quality Levels (normal inspection)
PO or Lot Size
Sample Size
Ac
.65 Re
Ac
1.0 Re
1.5 Ac Re
2-8 9 - 15 16 - 25 26 - 50 51 - 90 91 - 150 151 - 280 281 - 500 501 - 1,200 1201 - 3,200 3201 - 10,000 10,001 35,000 35,001 150,000 150,001 -500,000 500,001 and over
2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 800 800 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 10 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 11 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 14 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 15
0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21
0 0 1 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 22 22
This plan should also be shared with and used by your Trim/Accessories suppliers, at the same .65 level to reduce the differences in inspection results. A Scorecard should be used to trend performance of all suppliers.
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Fabric Testing Basics III) Fabric Testing Basics

Most factories should have a basic Laboratory in-house to test fabric and finished garments. The ability of a factory to fulfill this requirement will weigh heavily in the new CSC Factory Quality Systems Evaluation and future Vender Certification program. Test results should be captured and combined with Fabric Inspection results to determine the status of the lot. These results should be detailed and used for fabric mill improvement efforts. Production garments should also be tested for each production lot, noting Appearance Retention results, and the line performance trended for improvement purposes. Basic wash testing of fabric should be completed immediately upon fabric receipt. Basic wash test should include: o Shrinkage should be tested on a minimum of 1 roll of every 10 inspected at inspection. 1 of every 20 rolls inspected on subsequent shipments of the same style A minimum of 3 wash-dry cycles should be done with calculations after each Shrinkage should be monitored for necessary pattern adjustments o Appearance retention should be evaluated after final wash, comparing to standard o Bleeding (with multi-fiber strips), wet and dry crocking should also be checked o Weight and count should be checked from each roll from each style and color o A daily finished garment production testing process should be in place; track by line & lot
Finished Garment Testing Summary

For complete program, please see appendix. Factory testing of the finished garment provides an early opportunity to react to issues related to washing and construction once all components have been combined. This is also an excellent way to monitor a lines machine settings and sewing techniques. The severity of stitch tension, skewing, puckering, roping, blooming of rib necks and poor construction may be magnified after wash and these results should result in immediate line adjustments. Requirement Columbia Sportswear (MHW, Pacific Trail, Titanium, Sorel, etc.) requires a garment from first production and each color be tested for basic after wash performance. We also require that any primary factory have its own lab for basic wash testing. Tests to perform will depend upon product but would primarily include: o o o o o Dimensional Stability ( Shrinkage) Appearance Retention Bleeding (Color fastness) Skewness (Torque) Wet and Dry Crocking
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Fabric Testing Basics

Procedure Summary o o o o o o o Follow care instructions and AATCC 135 ( CSSP 206 ) Complete 3 wash and dry cycles and allowed to condition for a minimum of 4 hours Check dimensional stability and skewness/ torque ( CSSP 207 ) Examine color blocked styles for staining after both the 1st and 3rd wash cycles Use the AATCC Grey scales and multi-fiber strips to grade color change and staining A light box with a daylight D65 illuminant should be used when rating the color Re-inspect the garment for the physical appearance retention. A list of key points to review are given in table form under Evaluation and Reporting. Has the appearance deteriorated due to any reason such as: Seam puckering Differential shrinkage between materials Pilling
Testing Evaluation and Reporting

A table listing standards and tolerances is included in the Finished Garment Testing procedure. Any issues related to fabric should be immediately addressed with the fabric mill and resolved promptly to avoid delay in shipment. Also alert your local area Materials Research and Quality personnel. Approval to use out of tolerance fabric must come from Corporate MR and QA.
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Cutting and Spreading Inspections
IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections

The cutting department is a major profit center which can often be overlooked. It has a tremendous influence on the cost and quality of the finished product. In general, about 45% to 60% of a garments cost is fabric, but about 90% of a cutting rooms cost is in fabric. Controlling fabric loss is extremely important. A Cutting Departments Objective should include: o o o Consistently provide sewing with accurate cut parts for each operation As specified and within tolerance Control cost of fabric through material utilization, less rework, loss and scrap Maintain reasonable direct labor costs
A formal approval release process should be in place that signifies that all appropriate components, directions and documents are ready for release to the cutting department. Included in the release process would be approvals for, but not limited to: o o o o o Marker accuracy against pattern, spec, direction and related cutting notations Clear instructions for fabric face/bottom, direction, nap, type of spread/cut Fabric roll, style, shade integrity Pattern considerations for fabric shrinkage Separation of rolls for shade control
Spreading and Cutting Room Quality Control personnel should verify that the formal approval release process has occurred at they begin inspections of a lot.
Monitoring Spreading and Cutting

A key to efficient monitoring is good communication between the Quality and cutting room teams. Quick response and follow-up help prevent bigger issues and reduce costs. Typically, one or two dedicated inspectors are capable of monitoring spreading and cutting Production pay incentives are common for most positions, but can be detrimental if not tied to quality performance incentives also. A strong in-process monitoring of spreading and cutting should trend performance results of individuals. These results should initiate training and corrective action as needed. Random Sampling Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. An Inspector should not avoid patterns and routines that reduce the random aspect of the inspection. The order of personnel and operations should be changed frequently. Make every effort to get a fair representation of the cutting production by making random checks.
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Cutting and Spreading Inspections Spreading Important Points For Knits

o o o o o Establish and follow a formal procedure to relax knits as long as necessary, prior to spreading, after spreading and after cutting as warranted by fabric characteristics. Spreading machine should be monitored for a very relaxed speed and lack of tension. Spreading machines without de-tensioning capability (positive feed), is not recommended for knits. Ply heights of knits must be controlled and be appropriate to the actual cutting method. Place pattern correctly on quarter turned fabric so the fold will fall on the side of a garment.
Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures

Inspectors should monitor and record results for each Spreader a minimum of twice per day. A formal marker approval process should be in place and all fabric and documents also approved prior to release. Any relaxation needs should be verified. The primary characteristics to monitor in spreading would include: o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Edge and end alignment (CTC- critical to cost) Tension of spread (CTQ- critical to quality) Table marks Splices and overlaps Accuracy of marker including condition Marker placement Pattern check Cuttable width Direction and type of spread Ply counts Straight edge / leaning Bowing of fabric Shading and general quality No staples or pins should be used
Performance levels should be tracked and additional training provided as needed. To determine a spreaders defect rate divide the number of defects found by the ply height. Any major inaccuracies would be considered defects and fail the inspection. Failures are rejected back to the supervisor who reviews with the Spreader(s). The spread should be corrected and a re-audit done by QC after re-inspection. The Spreader is then audited three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. At that point, he would go back to a normal rotation.
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Cutting and Spreading Inspections Cutting Room Inspector Procedures Manual Cutting Inspections
Regardless of the type of cutting operation, manual, manual die, automated die, or CNC, a random statistical inspection program will help ensure consistent accuracy. Cutters or cutting operations should be monitored a minimum of twice per day with problem areas or failures receiving more attention. Accurate and detailed record keeping will allow you to track individual performance trends. Appropriate training should be provided as a result. The sampling plan process can be the same approach as the in-process inspection. The bundle of plies of a single cut component is considered one unit. To determine the lot size, total the number of bundles. Follow the Normal level single sampling plan. We encourage you to use a 1.5 AQL, but not more than the 2.5 AQL. For each sampled bundle (unit), inspect a top, middle and bottom ply from each. Compare to a hard pattern following the appropriate written tolerances. Failures are rejected back to the supervisor who reviews with the Cutter. A Cutter should 100% inspect the cut and correct all problems. A re-audit is done by QC after re-inspection. The Cutter is then audited three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. Any major inaccuracies would be considered defects and fail the inspection. The Cutter is then audited three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. At that point, he would go back to a normal rotation. To calculate the defect rate for cutting, divide the total defects found by the number of bundles checked. Inspectors should monitor and record results for each Cutter a minimum of twice per day. The primary characteristics to monitor in cutting would include: o o o o Ply matching Mis-cuts Poor cutting or edges Notch depth and placement
A sample QA Cutting form can be found in the Forms Section. o Change control procedures need to be enforced for adjustments to markers/patterns. o Do not make changes on the pattern/marker for the Cutter to correct. Make a new pattern/marker. Preventive measures are the best control for quality. o Care of patterns is important. Closely monitor the wear, care and handling of patterns and markers. Hard patterns should be used when possible. Patterns with worn corners should be replaced to prevent issues in cutting. The above mentioned inspection method applies to the following as well.
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Cutting and Spreading Inspections CNC / Computer Cutting

Gerber is the most commonly used Computer Numeric Controlled cutting machine, but all brands would be treated the same. o o The cutter should be calibrated each shift and the operator should be able to demonstrate the process and share documentation. Follow the same inspection process as manual cutting. Inspectors must have specs, tolerances for each cut part. Use a hard pattern to check cut parts from the top, middle and bottom plies. Random inspections should be done at least 2 times per shift, per cutter Important to have formal detailed guidelines and/or direction for: Calibration for proper cutting Proper tools and sizes for drill holes and notches Need documented daily check of cut accuracy and wear of cutting head Routine replacement of finger blocks
Bierrebi (B-R-B)
The BRB continuously feeds tensionless tubular knits through a high quality cut process. It can be an excellent opportunity to reduce cost in a cutting room and promotes more automated sewing. The operator per machine has a direct affect on quality. On multiple part garments most BRBs require one roll feeder /defect flagger, per machine and one bundler per two machines. This minimizes defects going to sewing and keeps machine uptime at a maximum. Other points: o Very fast and accurate - 1200 T-shirts or 2400 briefs per hour o Knits must be properly relaxed prior to cutting, regardless of cut method o Should have tensioning devise on Bierrebi even after relaxing o Calibration and preventive maintenance schedules must be followed o Proper service and lubrication to prevent wear and contamination o Ragged edges are a sign of dull dye blade o Proper storage and handling of blades is very important o Dye cutting needs the same inspection process as manual cutting o A max of 2.5 AQL, statistical sample based upon # of cut bundles o Each machine should be checked at least twice per day o Top, middle and bottom plies should be checked o Measured with a hard pattern, using written tolerances o A program should be in place to prevent lint buildup throughout the day
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In-Process Inspections
V) In-process Inspections
In-process inspection, corrective/preventive action and trending operator performance will provide the factory the ability to identify problems at an early stage and to rectify quality issues before packing, while building an environment that encourages quality to be built into the garments. In-line inspection is also an important process to reduce costs of rework, scrap and failed inspections. It is part of the inspectors responsibilities to assist the in building quality attitudes of the operators and all sewing room staff. They should work closely with and assist the sewing line supervisor in building quality improvement efforts.
Inspector Procedures
Progressive Bundle Systems Progressive bundle production systems may come in many variations, but can all be monitored very effectively by the follow-up bundle system. Many factories refer to their lines as modular units, cells, team sewing, but are really just a progressive bundle system with a few wrinkles such as arranged in a U shape. The follow-up bundle system doesnt apply to true modular manufacturing, which is addressed later in this section. Follow-up Bundle Inspections We believe this is a very effective in-process inspection process when managed properly and data used for training and continuous improvement efforts. Root cause analysis and problem solving should be a formal process that is initiated by inspection reports and other quality incidents. A factory must quickly respond and get to the true cause, take corrective action and implement preventive measures. Reports should be reviewed throughout the day and recapped at the end of the day. Management must have a strong process in place to address the top 3 (or primary types; eg, sewing defects in general) defects or problems. The follow-up bundle method provides the operator with the incentive to do it right the first time, and to immediately correct any problems she/he sees before passing it on. The incentive is that if you keep making mistakes, you will get more inspection and supervisor attention, and you will correct your own problems. An operator should be pulled from the operation, and given more training, if she is not capable of high quality. Inspectors should be thoroughly trained in all aspects of inspection and defect classification. It is extremely important to build consistency between all inspectors throughout the factory, no matter what position they hold. Please refer to the Defect Recognition and Consistency exercise in the appendix for a great, fun learning tool.
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In-Process Inspections
Our recommended Inspector to Operator ratio is one to 25, maximum. As problem areas develop this ratio may need to go down. Certain critical operations may need to be checked hourly. In these situations, a factory may instead decide to place a stationary inline 100% inspection of components built until that point. In this case, operator performance records should still be maintained. Random inspection may not be needed as often for operations prior to the stationary in-line 100% inspection. Until the line/operator is performing at an exceptional level, each operator should be checked a minimum of 3 times per day randomly. All operators who are new to the operation should be checked hourly until they pass 3 passed consecutive inspections. The standard sample size to inspect from a bundle is seven pieces. Five pieces would be acceptable for bundles less than 24 garments. Anytime the Inspector finds one defective unit out of seven/five inspected, the inspection fails and the bundle is given back to the operator and must be 100% inspected. The Line Supervisor should be alerted and will follow-up with the operator. Once the 100% inspection is complete by the operator, the QC Inspector re-inspects the failed bundle. Three consecutive bundles are then inspected. If all pass, the operator falls back into the normal rotation. If one of the follow-up inspections fail, the process starts over.
Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process

o o o o o o o o o o Maintain a maximum ratio of 1 Inspector to every 25 operators Randomly select operators to inspect; do not fall into a pattern Randomly select and inspect 7 pieces from a bundle and record number and type of defects 5 pieces may be appropriate for bundles under 24 pieces Reject the bundle back to the operator if one or more defects is found and alerts the supervisor The operator re-inspects 100% and offers back to the inspector for a reaudit of 7 pieces The next three bundles will then become follow-up inspections The operator must pass all 3 to return to normal rotation The In-process Inspector should NOT do the 100% inspection on rejected bundles The inspector should inspect at her workstation, not by the operator Mobile well equipped inspection tables/carts are very effective Rotating inspectors between lines is a good practice Failed bundles should be wrapped with a bright strip of cloth to segregate from the others Follow-up bundles should be wrapped in another bright color to ensure inspection A 5 part perforated ticket also is a good tool to track failed and follow-up bundles A failed follow-up bundle restarts the process of 3 follow-ups Accurate and detailed recording and trending of inspections is critical to success See the example form listed in the appendix
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Additional Monitoring
VI) Additional Monitoring

Inline inspection, 100% inspection and Final Audit performance results should determine the level of inspection or monitoring needed inline. You may determine that a stationary 100% inline inspection is needed after a critical operation, for example, in addition to the normal random inspections done inline. This can be a very effective way to drive down inline defect rates. Another approach would be to increase the ratio of inline inspectors to operators to improve coverage and monitoring. It is very important to maintain low inline defect rates to relieve the inappropriate burden of finding defects within the 100% inspection and/or Final Audit. Do not expect these areas to be a catch all to ensure quality.
Modular Manufacturing
True modular manufacturing typically would have many of the following characteristics: o Highly cross-trained operators working in a true team modular unit o Inspect their own work, individually and as a group o Able to call their own meetings and stop production if needed o Roughly 10 operators per unit o No real work in process; a pull system instead of a push system o No progressive bundle systems o QC inspects outside the team and not inline o Uses a team incentive based upon Attendance, Production and Quality o Requires strong HR training to support culture change and team building
Seam Seal / Bonding

In-process monitoring of the seam seal operations can be done in the same manner the Inline bundle inspections we recommended. This operation should be randomly checked a minimum of three times per day. Additional monitoring and testing should be as follows: o Tape should be organized, labeled and stored properly o Seam seal and bonding areas should be in a controlled environment o Suter testing done frequently inline or in a lab o Uses a minimum of 3 PSI for one minute o Monitor seam strength and glue o Min. checks done: in the morning, after shut down for lunch, shift change or other o Use a formal daily calibration and preventive maintenance process Please refer to the appendix for additional information and current procedures.
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Additional Monitoring Measurement Procedures

Garment measurements should be spot checked as part of the random bundle inspections inline. The 100% inspection operation should also require each inspector to spot check all critical measurements periodically throughout each hour. Ideally, this should be done at a ratio that can be easily monitored by supervision, such as one garment for every seven inspected. This greatly increases the chance of finding an out of tolerance or negative trend. If a problem is noted the inspector should notify Quality or supervision for further investigation. In addition to the above, a formal measurement process should take place by Quality each hour or every other hour on an appropriate quantity of garments from a line. The results should be logged graphically to easily illustrate measurement trends and line stability. This can also be done as part of the Pre-Final Audit if used. Negative trends and/or out of tolerance must be reacted to immediately.
Pre-Final Inspections
Where additional monitoring is necessary, a Pre-Final Audit may be warranted. It can be done in many ways and can be very effective as a batch audit in small quantities of goods. This should be done after 100% inspection and can be setup to be done on every hour or two of production. Failures can be reacted to promptly and should result in corrective and preventive actions. This should also allow you to track the performance of the 100% inspection personnel as well as an individual line.
Quality Reports and Daily Meeting

All daily reports for Quality should be reviewed on a daily basis and a plan established to address the top 2-3 issues each day. Use the 80% - 20% rule, to focus on the few problems that result in the most issues or have the most impact. A formal Corrective Action process needs to be in place to address the reoccurring issues and eliminate the root cause. Management typically fails to use their reports effectively. Inline, 100% inspection, measurement and any additional inspection reports should be analyzed in total to determine an operators performance level. This will provide the information to determine further training needs and will uncover performance or machinery trends that can be improved. Reports should also be used to determine increased or reduced inspection needs for the following day or longer period.
Quality Standards
An approved standard should be available on each operation and a finished approved garment should be displayed at the end of each line. Each should include the appropriate specifications, documentation and instructions.
Display and Organizational Boards

Performance levels for production and quality, including daily and long-term goals should be prominently displayed at the end of each line. Tool organization boards or cabinets should also be used to improve efficiency and safety.
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Additional Monitoring Recognition and Incentive Programs

Everyone wants to be appreciated and recognized for good performance. We highly recommend a program that shows the factorys appreciation for meeting set quality performance levels. The most effective programs use monetary incentives for meeting quality, production and attendance goals appropriate for the level of personnel and position. This program should apply throughout the factory, not just to operators.
Defect Codes
It is recommended that you use the same defect codes as we use in our Columbia Sportswear inspections, so that proper comparison and correlation can take place. Regardless, the codes you use must be specific enough to allow effective problem solving and root cause analysis.
Pilot Lots
A factory should have a formal Pilot Lot process to ensure proper and efficient line set ups. This is a tool to fully qualify a line and product for capability and repeatability. The process should include technical, Quality, production and mechanical interaction and approval. This information and actual production modifications and results should be used as a learning tool for subsequent production runs.
Vestibule Training
A formal training program is necessary to build quality and reduce costs. A vestibule training area should be complete with experienced trainers, fully equipped with the tools and program to be effective. This area should be separate from a production. New hires should be graduated from training after established criteria and proficiency levels are is met. Trainers should monitor a trainee until further levels are met after they join the line. Vestibule training also provides the factory with the ability to pull experienced operators off the line for additional training. A slight change in techniques could easily help an operator move from 85% to 100%. The payback is quick and the operator helps spread the good news.
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Final Inspection
VII) Final Inspection

(Also known as End of Line, 100% Inspection or Inspect and Trim) The 100% inspection of finished garments as they leave the sewing line is a valuable tool to assist in your corrective and preventive action process. This inspection is known as Final Inspection, End-of-Line or Inspect and Trim. It may be done at the end of the line, or in another area. Whats most important is that detailed records by operator and defects found are kept and used for continuous improvement and training. These results should be combined with the In-process Audit results to determine the true performance of each operator, over an appropriate period of time. Detailed record keeping in your Final (100%) Inspection area, will indicate specific trends with certain operations, products and operators. This important information allows you to take the necessary preventive action steps for current and future production.
Criteria of a Strong Final Inspection (100% Inspection):

o o o o o o o o Inspectors should work under the Quality Department and be thoroughly trained Cross-training and rotating Inspectors will improve effectiveness and efficiency Work areas must be well lit, clean and have room for good, thorough inspections Specifications, standards, records and appropriate tools should be easily available Defects should be returned to the operator for repair and be reinspected Garments should be inspected fully, inside and outside Combine results with Inline reports to identify problem operations Provide good quality floor mats and stools for occasional leaning/sitting to avoid fatigue A short break in the morning and afternoon will help keep inspectors fresh and attentive
Garment Wash
Garment washed programs should have a 100% inspection done prior to wash to spot any needed repairs and track operator and line performance. After wash, a second 100% inspection should be completed in the same manner as the pre-wash inspection. Types of defects should be monitored closely and compared to the previous inline and 100% results. This will point out any areas with sewing that werent obvious prior to washing. o Compare garments to approved wash standard for appearance and hand o Garments must be measured thoroughly for all sizes/colors Note: See appendix for Finished Garment Testing requirements. Garment wash items are not excluded from finished testing.
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Final Audit Process VIII) The Final Audit Process

A strong Final Statistical Audit should be in place to verify that your systems have worked properly and expectations for quality, sizing and packaging have been met. This process should not be a catch all for quality problems, but instead should have rare failures and serve more to monitor performance improvement efforts. High defect percentages and frequent failures indicate gaps within your systems that need immediate improvement.
Random Sampling
It is critical that all samples are randomly selected from a segregated lot. This collection of finished garments must remain isolated until the inspection has been fully completed. A key to random sampling is that each and every garment has a chance to be selected for the initial sample. All cartons included in the lot must be available at the time the audit begins. Management must ensure that all sampling is selected randomly throughout the factory regardless of the type of inspection. Be sure the inconvenient cartons are being selected as much as those with easy access. Garments sampled should also be pulled randomly from within the cartons.
Sampling Plans
Columbia Sportswear requires the ANSI / Mil Std Single Sampling, Normal Level 2.5 AQL, or tighter, be used at Final Audit for Columbia merchandise. Columbia Quality Inspectors will use a Double sampling plan for our Final Audits and a Single sampling plan on any reaudits of failed lots.
When to Inspect
In most cases, it is preferable to begin your Final Audit from a lot or cut# that is packaged and complete. However, under some circumstances such as products continuously produced in high volume or that require detailed packaging, the final audit may be completed before packaging. If the sample audit fails, the merchandise can be re-inspected more efficiently, without destroying packaging material and wasting labor. If this approach is taken, frequent audits should be made on packaged stock, to prevent packaging problems. These units inspected for packaging need not be opened and inspected for workmanship. Auditing production by time periods (approving every hour, or every two hours of production) can be an effective way to respond to problems and keep reinspection quantities low. This funnel approach can be effective for many factories but require close supervision, good product handling and strict subsequent packaging audits. o o o o o BOM Minimum Construction Specifications Written basic quality standards for each product All translated manufacturer specifications should include Specific fiber content, labels, hang tags and care labeling. Graphic, detailed instructions of how the garments should be made
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Final Audit Process

o o o o o o o o An approved finished garment standard with PP sample with comments Approved color swatches for each lot and the approved trim card Final Audit forms to record data Sampling Plan for 2.5 AQL Normal Inspection Level Clean, spacious work area with table and proper lighting (100 Foot Candles) for inspection Tape measure in good condition and routinely verified to be accurate Access to body forms where available Obvious markers to identify defects
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Final Audit Process Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection.

The minimum acceptable AQL is 2.5. For a higher confidence level use the 1.0 or 1.5 accept /reject tables. MIL STD 105E / ANSI / ASQC Standard Z1.4-1993
Acceptable Quality Levels (normal inspection)
PO or Lot Size
Sample Size
Ac
1.0 Re
Ac
1.5 Re
2.5 Ac Re
2-8 9 - 15 16 - 25 26 - 50 51 - 90 91 - 150 151 - 280 281 - 500 501 - 1,200 1201 - 3,200 3201 - 10,000 10,001 and over
2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11
0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14
1 1 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11 15
For Quality Attributes To be used in conjunction with the sizing and packaging audits.
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Final Audit Process Using the How To Measure Manual

It is critical to help eliminate measurement related problems that you use the Columbia Sportswear How To Measure Manual. A copy of this manual will be included in your Qualified Inspector Training Material or is available through your local QA team. Please refer to the sample Sizing Worksheet Form in the Forms section of this document.
Re-Audits
It is very important to understand that failed inspections create needless rework costs, delays and possibly cancellations. Do not complicate matters by not doing a thorough 100% reinspection of all failed lots. Failing a Final Audit, and especially failing a re-audit, can be very expensive for the factory. Proper preventive measures and strong quality systems and training will help reduce audit failures and needless rework. The following is a recap of the re-audit procedures. All failed audits must be re-audited promptly, after the factory has 100 % inspected. o o o o o o o o All failed factory audits should pass a factory re-audit prior to presenting to CSQC Re-audits on quality related failures are re-inspected for all quality attributes, not just for the reason for failure Sizing failures may be reaudited for the particular critical point of measure that failed Packaging reaudits would typically require a reaudit for all packaging related attributes All pieces of multiple piece sets are re-inspected in a quality re-audit as a selling unit Factory must isolate the failed lot and maintain count of removed garments (seconds) Do not add new items to the failed lot, even to replace seconds/defects, a new audit will be done on those All seconds must have the labels cut, marked through with a marker, or stamped IRREGULAR Seconds will be verified for quantity and disfiguring by the CSQC at time of the re-audit
Important points to remember: o o Use the CS single sampling plan 2.5 AQL or better; CSQC will use the same plan A thoroughly random sample is critical for accuracy
The Factory QC Inspector should use the sampling plan to determine how many garments to reaudit, after the factory 100% inspection. Samples should be selected randomly using a minimum of a 2.5 AQL. The same table can be used for quality, sizing and/or packaging internal re-audits. Whenever a lot fails, you must 100% inspect to eliminate all classifications of defects. We suggest the following process for the larger quantities of internal factory audit failures and Columbia audit failures: o On larger lot sizes, after 20% of the lot has been 100% inspected, stop and review the data. Combine the sample audit data with the 20% inspection data
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Final Audit Process

o o o If the projected defect rate is still higher than the AQL, you must continue to inspect the remaining 80% of the failed lot If the re-inspection defect rate is lower than the AQL, you can stop the 100% inspection It is very important that the initial 20% of garments inspected is pulled randomly, which will provide more accurate results
Please refer to the Columbia Re-Audit Form at the end of this document. Form should be completed and given to the CSQC Inspector when he/she arrives to complete any re-audit.
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QFI
VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program

We are implementing the above program we refer to as QFI program, in which we will train a team of factory Quality Inspectors to monitor and be responsible for the quality of Columbia Sportswear products throughout the manufacturing process. The introduction to this program is in the appendix and a separate manual is available. The program is intended to reduce the hands on activities of our QC team and empower the factories to audit and release merchandise once their performance level goals are met and maintained.
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Broken Needle and Auxilary Sewing Tool Policy
APPENDIXES
I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy

Columbia Sportswear Company requires that no metal items used in production of materials, trims or completed packaged product make it to the final consumer where there is potential for injury. Auxiliary Tools Policy: o Columbia Sportswear requires that suppliers follow a strict auxiliary tools control policy which is defined as follows: 1. No pins or staples should be used during any stage of Columbia Sportswear production. 2. All auxiliary sewing tools such as trimmers, scissors or any other sharp metal object used during the course of production should be attached to the machine or table top as shown in the attached photos. 3. If an auxiliary tool is lost, the procedure below must be followed. Inform the supervisor Check current bundle through metal detector Record the loss in the record book. Sewing Needle Policy: o Columbia Sportswear requires that all suppliers follow a strict needle control system which is defined as follows: 1. There must be only one person responsible for dispensing sewing needles. 2. The responsible person must keep the needles in a safe, locked location and keep detailed records to confirm that no needles are lost in production. 3. If a needle is broken during manufacturing then the following process must be followed: Stop the machine Inform the supervisor Locate all broken needle parts If all broken needle parts cannot be located, then the current bundle must be scanned through a metal detector. Return broken parts to the needle control person. Needle control person will record the information on a broken needle log and issue a new sewing needle to the supervisor 4. All workers must follow the above policy, including the machinists, mechanics, production line workers and sample room workers.
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Metal Detector Policy: o o o o o o o o Columbia Sportswear requires that all Youth and Japan products starting Fall 06 is to be passed through a metal detection system to confirm that no foreign metal objects are included in the garment. Inspection quantity should be 100% of order quantity. Metal detection should be the final process performed before item is placed in the carton. Metal detection should take place AFTER all work including repairs has been completed, but prior to sealing the polybag. Record findings on CCS 125A. Metal detection machine should be calibrated to 1.0mm at the start of each shift and recorded on CCS 125B. Metal detection certificate must be completed for each shipment. Metal detection certificate must be submitted to Columbia QC during final inspection. Corporate requirement is that Columbia QC will pass all units inspected at Final inspection through the metal detector.
Claims: o o o o Columbia Sportswear incurs costs when product is received that is not built to specification. A Metal object in a garment is one example of product not built to specification. It is Columbia Sportswears policy to issue chargebacks to our suppliers in the event that problems with the product are determined to be caused by the suppliers negligence. Product found to contain metal objects will be classified as 5th quality and un-saleable. The chargeback amount will be calculated to recover any or all of the following costs that result from foreign metal objects negligently included in our product. Audit Costs including labor and materials. Discounted FOB as outlined in the B-grade policy. Difference in duty paid at full FOB and the discounted FOB. Any chargebacks or settlements against Columbia Sportswear. Penalty fee of $100 per occurrence.
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Broken Needle Log
Trimming Scissors attached to Inspection Table.
Trimming Scissors attached to Machine
Trimming Scissors attached to Work Table
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Broken Needle and Auxilary Sewing Tool Policy METAL DETECTION CALIBRATION MONTHLY REPORT FORM Factory Name Month
DAY
Conveyer belt speed ( ) Correct sensitivity setting ( 1.0mm ) 1.0mm detection trial
Regular Calibration After 2 hrs
Regular Calibration After 4 hrs
Regular Calibration After 6 hrs Regular Calibration After 8 hrs
Calibration when machine is first turned on Calibration when machine is turned off and back on Calibration when a new style is scanned
Standard # CCS 125B
* Initial when calibration is checked
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Down Product Compliance Overview
II) Down Product Compliance Overview

The objective is to ensure that all down products meet Columbia Sportswear Company and each customers, Quality, Regulatory and Testing Specifications.
CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements

Each down production lot requires a passed test report from IDFL China or USA following the standards and test methods of the Columbia Sportswear Down Requirements. A) IDFL is the only acceptable lab for use; request Columbia Sportswear 15% Discount o See IDFL Sample Submission Form; CSC submission form to be provided o Note down production lot number and number of bales in lot o Randomly select samples per the attached IDFL Down Sampling Plan and method B) Lot integrity must be maintained and accurately labeled for proper tracking including: o Down Lot Number, Production Date & Content & Specie o Should also include, bale weight, bale # (xx of xx), and other as necessary o Down Lot is identified as one production batch, produced at the same time C) Test results of bulk down should be slightly higher than required to account for drop in down cluster during production of garments D) Passed down test reports should be provided to the factory and CSC Office QC/MR teams prior to shipment of down E) Vendors should provide Down Suppliers with the CSC Down Requirements and Standards and work closely to ensure finished goods compliance F) Our Finished Goods Vendors are responsible for sourcing high quality, compliant down from disclosed reputable suppliers
CCS 152 Down Suppliers

A) We encourage non-vertical vendors/factories to use the CSC preferred down sources: o China: Allied Down and Nansei, managed by our Hong Kong Liaison Office o Vietnam: Mekong Feather o Taiwan: Kwong Lung o All Mountain Hardwear Down Products: Down Dcor Express written consent required from MHW Richmond for any substitutions
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CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing

A) Factory Monitoring: o Vendors must have CSC Corporate Responsibility pre-approval to use any subcontractors o Failure to comply to CSC sub-contracting requirements is subject to a minimum of USD $1000 penalty and possibly being dropped as a vendor o Each Down Factory must achieve an Acceptable rating in the CSC QA Factory Quality Systems Evaluation (FQSE) within a one year period from the initial evaluation date B) Down Shipment Correlation Testing: o Effective immediately, all vendors are responsible for down shipment correlation testing of all down suppliers, including CSC preferred suppliers, to ensure down quality and compliance to all standards o Initially, 10 consecutive down production lots should be tested and results compared to the down suppliers test reports for the same down production lots Full package IDFL testing should be done on a minimum of 5 of these lots Remaining 5 lots can be tested for Content, Fill Power (and Specie if Goose) o Trend and communicate supplier results and initiate continuous improvement efforts Excellent performance warrants a reduction in testing frequency Your CSC QA Manager will work with each factory to establish appropriate reductions in down testing based upon correlation results. C) Factory Testing: o Factories must follow the Columbia Down Standards, CSSP 238 for testing down samples and production garments Each lot must be accurately identified and tracked throughout factory production Down lot #, production date, buy date and style number(s) needed on each bale Down lot number to be included on each garment for traceability o o o o o All testing reports must be kept for CSC review for a minimum of two years CSC QC will oversee factory random test sample selection and submission in many cases The vendor is responsible for all expenses for down correlation and finished goods testing The vendor is liable for the quality and full compliance of down and finished goods Note on the IDFL test form to use Columbia Sportswear Down Standards
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Down Product Compliance Overview CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection Monitoring
CSC vendors are encouraged to implement and maintain a factory Quality process that will ensure consistent component and end product quality, weight and fill. A) Factory QC teams must complete random weight and fill checks throughout the day o Each down fill person should be checked a minimum of four times per day o Initially, new styles should begin with 100% weight checks to monitor variation o Performance should be documented for training and improvement needs o Poor performers or difficult styles should be monitored more often B) Scales must be used continuously throughout the filling of components o Scales must be calibrated and documented daily, per the manufacturers guidelines C) Lot integrity must be closely maintained throughout production, with a woven label id sewn in finished goods to identify the down lot o The woven id label schematics and requirements are being added to the BOM D) The vendor must meet the CSC BOM component fill weight E) As part of the Pre-Production Meeting, the factory should provide CSC QC with a report to track down lot and bale integrity through all size and quantities; see attached example F) Designated filling rooms should be used to fill component parts and to complete inspections o Must be kept clean, organized and have necessary spec sheets o Must maintain down lot integrity and cleanliness o Filling rooms should be physically separated; separate fill power, content and species o Humidity and temperature must be controlled to maintain consistency and accuracy G) A ratio of 1 in-process QC Inspector for every 20-25 sewing operators should be maintained o A smaller ratio is needed to monitor all down fillers, sub-assembly, seam seal, embroidery, heat transfers, etc H) Inline QC should spot check component weights throughout the day as they enter production I) The factory is required to complete a passed Final Statistical Audit covering all production lot quantities, before being released for the CSC Final Inspection.
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CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing

A) One unit of each new style, will be randomly selected and submitted for testing by CSC QC o Multiple styles under the same content, specie and fill power can be combined B) Testing will include content, fill power, net fill weight, specie and turbidity o Other random testing will be at a reduced level C) Sample should be selected from early in the production run and from one color/size D) Initial failed tests require a CSC selection and acceptable testing of 2 more of the same style/color E) If failed, a sample of all other colors/styles within the same lot will be submitted and must pass F) Repeated failures may require significant increases in tested garments; excellent performance may reduce testing frequency G) The finished product vendor is responsible for all testing expense regardless of results H) Finished goods test reports should be provided to the CSC Liaison Office QC/MR team
CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing

Vertical Down Suppliers and Factories must meet the above Down Supplier and Factory requirements with the following exception: A) Initial down supplier correlation testing is required on 5 initial production lots B) 3 of 5 for full package testing and 2 of 5 for Content, Fill Power (& Specie if goose) C) CSC QA Mgr will work with the factory to determine frequency of random down testing needs after correlation testing period
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CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring

CSC QC is responsible for monitoring down segregation, lot integrity and identification A) Will complete In-process, Final Inspections, weight verifications and participate in PreProduction Meetings. B) CSC Inspectors will oversee selection of down samples and finished goods for testing o All new styles will be tested; will combine styles of same content, fill power and species o Test samples should be pulled from early production C) CSC QC will monitor factory processes and correlate factory auditing/weighing results D) Will do in-process inspections on finished goods of new styles and randomly afterwards o Potential problem or difficult styles or factories will be monitored more often o Audits will be primarily from the initial 5-10% of production following the Final Inspection procedures E) After shipment random testing will be completed as part of our DC and Customer monitoring o Results will be communicated to the vendors
If you have questions please contact your local LO QC Manager for assistance.
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Finished Garment Testing
(III) Finished Garment Testing

The testing of the finished garment provides Columbia Sportswear with the first opportunity to know how a garment is going to perform after different materials are sewn together and in some instances being subjected to additional finishing procedures. Although the materials are tested and approved before being approved for use in production the combining of these materials in a garment may result in unexpected quality issues. The final finishing of the garment (generally washing) may also add an additional variable that could influence the quality that will be delivered to Columbia Sportswear customers.
Requirement
o o o o o o o Our expectation for each factory that produces a Columbia Sportswear ( MHW, Pacific Trail, Sorel, etc. ) garment is that they launder a garment from first production. The care instructions in the garment should be strictly followed. The garment should be examined prior to laundering to determine if it was made according to PDM instructions. The garment should also be examined for physical or color defects. The garment should be measured and the measurements recorded to determine if shrinkage issues occur during the laundering process. Garments that include piecing of white with colors, contrast color embroidery, or screen prints should be reviewed for any type of color transfer before and after laundering. The ability of a factory to fulfill these requirements will be an integral portion of the Vender Certification program.
Procedure
o o Two garments of each colorway should be pulled for wash testing. One will be tested and the other will be used as a standard reference. Condition the garments to be tested a minimum of 4 hours until the garment has reached a state of equilibrium with the atmosphere. Use ISO 139 Standard Temperature Atmosphere with a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius plus or minus 2 degrees and a relative humidity of 65% plus or minus 5 %, or use an air-conditioned office environment. On the test report record the temperature and humidity at the time of the initial and after was evaluation. Examine the production garment to determine if it was made according to PDM Verify that the care instructions are correct in the garment (care label matches PDM) Inspect the garment for physical appearance and irregularities. Do the cut pieces assemble together to present a first quality garment? Inspect the garments for color quality issues, crocking or color migration. Color migration may originate from piecing light colors or white with darker colors, threads used for construction, embroidery, or screen printing. Mark the garment at the POM with an indelible marker for reference before and after washing for dimensional stability and skewness (torque). Standard POM are given in CSC QA manual. Reversible and fully lined garments should be marked and measured on both sides.
o o o o o o
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o o Measure and record the chest width and body length measurements for tops and the hip and inseam (or skirt length) measurements for bottoms. It should be noted if measurements are not within prescribed tolerances. Multiple garments may be washed and dried together as long as the color family is complimentary, the garments are not color blocked or there are no wash separately instructions included in the care instructions.
Laundering and Assessment 1. Launder the garment based on the recommended care instructions listed in the individual garments referencing AATCC 135 ( CSSP 206 ).
Washing and Drying Conditions Machine Cycle (1) Normal /Cotton Sturdy (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press Washing Temperatures Drying Procedures (A) Tumble i. Cotton Sturdy ii. Delicate iii. Permanent Press (B) Line (C) Drip (D) Screen
Dryer Setting Combinations Cotton Sturdy High Exhaust Temperature Cool Down Time 10 Min Delicate Low < 66 C (140 F) Permanent Press High
10 Min
10 Min
2. 3. 4.
5.
All test garments must go through 3 complete wash and dry cycles and then allowed to condition for a minimum of 4 hours. Color blocked styles should be visually examined for staining after both the 1st and 3rd wash cycles. Evaluate the color change and staining using the AATCC Grey scales for color change and staining. A light box with a daylight D65 illuminant should be used when rating the color. A comparison is made between the perceived visual difference in the washed and unwashed samples and the perceived difference represented by the grey scale to assign a grading value. Re-inspect the garment for the physical appearance. Has the appearance deteriorated due to, seam puckering, differential shrinkage between materials, pilling, etc.
A listing of key points to review are given in table form under Evaluation and Reporting. Measure and record the length and width measurements of the garment. Does the dimensional stability and skewness/ torque ( CSSP 207 ) fall within the parameters established by Columbia Sportswear?
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Finished Garment Testing Testing Evaluation and Reporting

The following table lists are key points to be evaluated (if applicable) for each garment tested. Category Fabric Item Dimensional Stability Assessment Criteria Based on fiber content, see CSC 500A , Note any differential shrinkage , Puckering between linings, panels, and /or other components of the garment Less than 5% for tops, 3% for bottoms 3 or better using ASTM Photographic pilling standards. Any noticeable picks or snags are not acceptable Note any bald spots, loss of coverage Rate after I and 3 laundering cycles using AATCC Grey Scales for Color Change and Staining Grinning, broken, puckered, overall appearance Adherence, wash out, durability, overall appearance Puckering, fraying, bleeding, overall appearance Puckering, delaminating, blistering, overall appearance Puckering, paint chipping( LEAD based ), rough or sharp edges, proper installation,. Check the function of fasters/closures by operating 5 times Overall appearance, distortion, pilling, fibrillation, etc. Puckering, overall appearance Elasticity, twisting, curling Wash durability, overall appearance, proper tacking Clumping, migration, resiliency
Skewness ( torque ) Fabric Surface Pilling Snagging Pile Components & Embellishments Bleeding/ Color change
Seams/stitches/eyelets /buttonholes Screen prints/Heat transfers Patches/Embroidery Lining/fusing, lamination Fasteners: Hook/Loop, zippers, buttons, etc.
Rib collars and Cuffs Tape/piping Elastic Drawcord Fiberfill/Down
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Finished Garment Testing Torque / Skew
Side Seam
G1
Figure 1; Procedure for finding Torque/Skew using the Side Seam method Side seam Method When the side seams are perpendicular to the hem this method is the simplest method to determine torque/skew. The garment should be laid flat on a table. Mark on the garment with a permanent marker points E ( underarm side seam join) , H ( side seam ), & on a parallel line with H point G ( side seam ). Corresponding marks on a pant could be on the side seam at the knee and on a parallel line at the side seams near the leg hem. Launder the garment according to the care instructions in the garment. After laundering the garment lay the garment flat on a table, align the shoulder of the top or if testing a bottom align the waist of the bottom and gently smooth out any large wrinkles or creases and allow the garment to condition a minimum of 4 hours. For garments that torque/skew point G will move and becomes G1. Measure the distance from G to G1 and E to G and calculate the Torque/Skew as follows: Length of G(G1) Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100 Length of EG
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Finished Garment Testing Torque / Skew
A1
Figure 2; Procedure for finding the Torque/Skew using AATCC method 179
AATCC Test Method 179 The garment should be laid flat on a table. Mark on the garment with a permanent marker a reference line YZ across the width of the garment above the bottom hem. Mark point A midway between Y and Z. At point A draw a line following the grainline from YZ to a point B. Launder the garment according to the care instructions in the garment. . After laundering the garment lay the garment flat on a table, align the shoulder of the top or if testing a bottom align the waist of the bottom and gently smooth out any large wrinkles or creases and allow the garment to condition a minimum of 4 hours. Draw a line from point B to line YZ following the grainline. Mark this intersection as point A1. Measure the distance from point A to point A1 and from point A to point B and calculate the Torque/Skew as follows: Length of A(A1) Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100 Length of AB Please refer to the example of Garment Wash Form at the end of this document. References AATCC 135 Dimensional Change of Garments to Laundering AATCC 179 Method 2 Invert T Skew/torque AATCC Color Evaluation Procedure1 - Assessment to Color Change AATCC Color Evaluation Procedure 2 - Assessment to Color Staining CSC QC Manual for Measuring / Textile Manual Apparatus, Reagents, and Materials
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AATCC Gray Scale for assessing Color Change ( available from AATCC, http://www.aatcc.org Products/QC Products/Colorfastness Testing ) AATCC Gray Scale for Assessing Staining ASTM Photographic Pilling Standards Light Box containing Daylight (D65) light source AATCC specified top loading washing machine and front load Tumble dryer (current listing on web site, http://www.aatcc.org Technical/WashDry) Water and Humidity Monitor Water Hardness test kit or chemical for hardness testing for CaCO3 Tape Measure IEC phosphate reference detergent or equivalent detergent ( Tide detergent ) Type III ballast: 5% cotton/50% polyester or 100% polyester Continuous supply of water with a hardness of CaCO3 not to exceed 30ppm
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Seam Seal Requirements
(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization Seam Tape selection

o o o During product commercialization, the seam tape and fabric compatibility have been tested and approved by the Materials Research and Product Development teams. Seam tape Vendor testing documentation has been saved in PDM under the fabric item number. See attachments section for the testing report. Bill of Materials in most cases will call out the fabric approved seam tape. BOM will default to use the seam tape that best matches the weight of the base cloth.
Seam Tape storage

o o o Store tape in well ventilated area humidity below 50% and indoor temperature below 30c, out of direct sunlight or fluorescent lighting, this prevents discoloring. Leave tape sealed in original shipping cartons vertically. All seam tape should be depleted by the first received method to ensure proper application and use. The storage life of tape is within one year.
Thread Requirements
Basic join seam thread requirements are Polyester Corespun with Polyester Wrap quality. o o o Tex 24 Ticket 120 Japan Ticket No. 50
CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition Trial Requirements

Before cutting begins, a seam seal trial test is required to assure the compatibility of seam tape and fabric in a production environment. This test is to be completed against each lot and color of fabric. o o o Apply 3 lines of seam tape vertically and horizontally tape across a piece of 12 x 12 test fabric to create a seam seal crossover quilt. Spacing of join seams is to be 3 apart with a seam allowance that has been trimmed and topstitched to in width. Apply seam tape to the commercialized fabric as per the tape manufacturers instructions. At the end of each seam maintain a 3 tail of tape at the end. Record the seam tape application parameters directly on the fabric along with machine type or machine number: (as illustrated in fig. 1) a) Air temperature b) Nozzle temperature c) Roller feed speed d) Nozzle air pressure e) Upper roller pressure
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Fig. 1 Cross over seam quilt with application labeling
Test adhesion of tape to fabric and review to the following: a) Allow tape and fabric to cool minimum of 5 minutes. (Some fabrications require longer cooling times.) b) Then peel the tape slowly from fabric at a 180 degree angle. c) The coating should peel off the fabric. d) If coating is not totally removed or bond has been weakened, the seam seal machines should be adjusted. e) Re-test until coating is completely bonded tape when peeling off. Generate test trials on all machines in the factory as each machine output can vary from machine to machine. Generate a formal trial sample as illustrated in Fig. 2 below. Complete Suter testing for seam water-proofness and also generate wash tests for 3 cycles to fabric care instructions. If any of these tests do not pass, advise Corporate Quality Assurance and Materials Research in order to resolve tape adhesion issue before starting production.
o o o o
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Fig. 2 Formal sample trial illustration
Appearance Considerations
o o Seam Tape should have the same elasticity as the fabric so that it will move with the fabric when the tape is applied. Do not substitute or mix different kinds of tape in same seam or same construction on one garment, as many tapes will not tape to each other.
CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures

Seam seal machines are required to be calibrated for temperature and pressure at the beginning of the work day, lunch or coffee breaks and at each shift change. Calibration records are to be recorded on CCS 1811 and be made available for review by a Columbia Sportswear representative at any time during the manufacturing process. a) Tape machine is to be turned on to meet the tape manufactures suggested application guidelines 15-20 minutes before start of seam seal trial or production. b) Begin in seam seal either a trial sample or the first bundle of production. c) Inspect application of the tape: o Centered over the seam, overall hand feel of the tape o Start and stops of the tape at curves and junctions o Bonding of tape ends o Appearance of seams and curve seams after taping o Observe that there is no imprint of tape on the face side of fabric in order to determine if roller pressure is properly set or the tape tension is OK o That stitching thread is not burned under the tape, it means air nozzle was too close to the lower roller d) Face side of the fabric should not show as this will not seal. e) Seams are trimmed evenly and there are no loose threads. f) Verify water proofness by Suter or Air Permeability test following CCS 1803 requirements.
CCS 1803 Testing Requirements Suter Test requirement for Garment and Glove seam water proofness:
o o Test the seams at 3 PSI for 1 min. Refer to technical seam seal sketches to ensure that correct seams have been sealed.
** Suter test method is not to be mistakenly used for fabric water proofness testing**
Air Permeability for Glove finger seam water proofness:

o o o Test the seams at 3 PSI for 1 min. Refer to technical seam seal sketches to ensure that correct seams have been sealed. Do not mistake micro porous fabric for seam leakage. Carefully evaluate the seam taping to make the determination that it is seam leakage and not fabric leakage.
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Seam Seal Requirements CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures Procedure
Test lot selection is generated from in-process garments. Generate sampling ratio of 1 out of 10 units the same bundle. Conduct testing on garments against CCS 1803 seam seal test requirements. Factory is required to record the test findings on CCS 1810 or similar documentation. The following items are to be included in the evaluation: o o o o
o
o o
Test all cross over seam intersection points. Tabs that connect an outer/inner layer of garment together as in neck tab, waist tab or z-welds. Review seam appearance on face side of garment for puckering, pulling, waving, roping or bending Stability measurements if stretch fabric Seam seal test for water proofness of seams Seam taping appearance, peeling at cross or join seams, general peeling of tape. If no water leakage, switch to random points of testing on 5 units of every bundle. If there is a leak: o Locate the machine that sealed the leak and stop the production. o Re-adjust the machine and retest. Do not start production until it has been corrected and that there is passing testing documentation. o Repair all of the leaked units.
Factory Responsibility
a) Maintain record of the seam seal machine calibration and in-line process testing that includes: factory name, machine model, machine number, tape used, fabric, P.O. (Similar or as to CCS 1811) b) Maintain record of Suter or Air Permeability water testing that includes: Factory, style number, P.O. machine number, size and color of garment, points that were tested and the results. (Similar or as to CCS 1810) c) One unit out every 10 from each machine needs to be tested. o If unit fails all 10 need to be rechecked and machine needs to be re-adjusted. o This adjustment then needs to be reported on the machine calibration record.
CSC QC Responsibility
a) During in-process inspection, select random samples for seam seal appearance, Suter or Air Permeability testing in addition to standard quality inspection. Number of units selected to be the same quantity as final inspection AQL 2.5 sampling. Record Suter or Air Permeability test results on CCS 1810. b) Check and review factory calibration and in-line process testing records to confirm that the CCS 1802 & CCS 1804 requirements have been met and the results are passing.
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Seam Seal Requirements CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures Procedure
Seam seal garments and gloves are required to be laundered to the labeled care instructions 3 times for either machine or hand wash instructions. Select two garments from production for wash test selection. Use one garment as a control sample for visual appearance comparisons and the other is to be laundered. Factory is required to record the wash test findings on CCS 1810. The following items are to be included in the evaluation: o o o o
o
Observe for any seam appearance abnormalities on face side of garment including puckering, pulling, waving, roping. Monitor for any color stain or migration on tape from fabric coating. Watch for any coating that is peeled from fabric or air bubbles inside. Any abrasions on the edge of seam tape. Seam taping appearance, peeling at cross or join seams, general peeling or lifting of tape. Generate seam seal test for water proofness of seams following CCS 1803 record findings on CCS 1810.
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Seam Seal Requirements CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting Causes for Seam Leaking
Described below are areas that would be reviewed and eliminated as it will cause a garment to not be waterproof. a) Seam Tape pleats, bubbles or dirt under the tape. b) Thread ends. All threads are to be neatly trimmed close to stitches. c) All seams are to be trimmed or sewn to 1/4, when the seam is finished with topstitching and 1/8 if there is no join seam topstitching. d) All tape is to be applied centered in the width of the seam allowance. If tape is applied to close to the seam edge it will cause failure. e) All small or short length seams are to be taped first and the long length seams last. f) All tape is to be trimmed at the end of the seal. If unsealed tape is taped over itself, this will cause failure. g) Tape should not extend more than 1 passed the end of a seam, Velcro, label, embroidery or other taped areas. This requirement is to improve the outer appearance as well as control seam tape usage. h) All seam tape should run to the end of the fabric or join seam. No starts and stops in the middle of a join seam as this will lead to failure. i) Topically applied labels are required to be sealed with less roller pressure to prevent failure of label. j) If an area of tape has not sealed properly, it is acceptable for a second application of heat and pressure with a seam seal machine without a second layer of tape. k) All seams are required to be taped before the front zipper is set. If this is not completed in this sequence, this will create a small space next to the zipper that the tape machine cannot seal that will result in a failure. l) Face side of the fabric in seam allowance should not be showing as this will not seal properly and cause failure. m) If tape machine is running to hot, the ends of the tape when stopping will fail and cause a beading appearance and be hard in texture. Adjust the machine properly to eliminate hot ends and trim the unsightly beads from the tape. n) Incorrect air nozzle positioning can result in improper sealing, scorching or burn-through of tape. o) Confirm that the Air nozzle and roller are the proper width for tape being applied. p) Both nozzle and rollers should be approximately 1/8 (3 mm) wider than the tape to ensure effective sealing. The nozzle should also be centered to cover the width of the tape. q) Partial seam seal tape starts and stops should be finished with cross over press to ensure proper adhesion.
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Seam Seal Requirements Corrective Actions for Seam Leaking

Described below are areas that would be reviewed and eliminated as it will cause a garment to not be waterproof.
Problem
A. Tape does not Bond
Possible Cause
Roll Mounted Backwards Wrong Tape Wrong Sealing Conditions Oil or soil on tape or coating
Corrective Action
Reverse roll adhesive towards core Contact Tape Supplier Follow Tape suppliers instructions Confirm that area is free from contaminants Reverse roll adhesive towards core Reduce temperature Lower speed; raise temperature increase air pressure. Contact Tape Supplier Adjust machine Adjust Machine Adjust roller pressure. Confirm that roller is smooth and without ridge. Adjust air nozzle alignment to be centered within tape. Confirm that area is free from contaminants Lower temperature, reduce air pressure Reduce pressure Replace roller(s) Lower temperature, increase roller speed Adjust air nozzle alignment to be centered within tape and not too close to lower roller. Contact Tape Supplier Lower speed; raise temperature increase air pressure. Contact Tape Supplier Tape tails should not extend beyond nip roller Reverse roll adhesive towards core Use slight tension on fabric as feed through rollers Contact Tape Supplier
B. Tape Sticks to Roller
Roll Mounted Backwards Nozzle temperature too high Speed too fast; heat is too low Wrong Tape Nozzle doesnt move synchronously with upper roller Insufficient roller pressure Rollers are not making proper contact Air Nozzle not adjusted properly Nozzle obstructed by dust or other dirt Heat too high Excessive roller pressure Upper or Lower roller deformed and not round Heat too high; speed too low Air Nozzle not adjusted properly
C. Tape Bond is Weak
D. Edge or center of tape not sealing
E. Tape splits at stitch or seam
F. Tape burns through fabric or chars
G. Seams leak at crossover points H. Tape wraps around rollers
Wrong Tape Speed too fast; heat is too low Wrong Tape Tape cut too long Roll Mounted Backwards
I.
Excessive Puckering
Lack of tension Wrong Tape
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Seam Seal Requirements CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples Seam Tape Winding/Discoloration
The below photo demonstrate examples of poor appearance of seam tape storage or poor seam tape winding.
Seam Tape Conglutination

Conglutination of seam tape is the result of the tape being glued or stuck together or adhering to itself. The below photos demonstrates how to test for conglutination of seam tape.
Step 1: Put tape through column (pen or round smooth surface object), pinch the head of tape with the other hand. Pull the tape slightly and quickly then release suddenly.
Step 2: If after release of tape the appearance is as the below picture when tape roll stops rotating, do not use for production.
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CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples

The below photos demonstrate examples of poor appearance of seam tape application.
Roping seam appearance begins with

improper topstitching and is permanently set when seam seal tape is applied. Roping can also lead to puckering at edge of seam tape.
Puckering appearance is caused from too

much hand pulling from seam seal operator while cloth is under the feed rollers of seam seal machine. Secondary cause can be if too much pressure and heat are used for tape application
Waving appearance is caused from too

much hand pulling from seam seal operator while cloth is under the feed rollers of seam seal machine. Secondary cause can be if too much pressure and heat are used for tape application
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Seam Sealed Quality Standards CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples
The below photos demonstrate interior seam tape application issues that will result in leakage and cause product failure.
Seam pullout and uneven seam trimming where the face fabric is showing. This will cause seam leakage.
Seam allowance should lay flat and not be twisted within the seam to be taped. This intersection is especially thick due to all the seams coming together along with the twisted seam.
1. Loose topstitch thread caught into the seam tape. 2. Uneven seam trimming.
This is a confidential and proprietary information of Columbia Sportswear Company. You agree that you will not disclose this information to any third party or use it for any purpose other than on behalf of Columbia Sportswear. You have no right to use Columbias name or any of its trademarks, trade names, copyrights, patents, designs or other intellectual property except as set forth in writing by Columbia. February 2009
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Seam Sealed Quality Standards CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form
Date: Style #: PO #: Vendor: Sample Type: Factory: S/S P/P I/L F/I
Machine #:
Testing Requirements per CCS 1803: Suter Test- 3 PSI for 1 Minute Air Permeability Test- 3 PSI for 1 Minute
TEST POINT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
No Leak: Tiny Water Drop:
COLOR/SIZE
RESULT
COMMENTS
Big Drop That Grows: Big Drop That Does Not Grow:
Tape Blow Thru: Fabric Leak:
Failure Key-
Multiple Fabric Leak:
This is a confidential and proprietary information of Columbia Sportswear Company. You agree that you will not disclose this information to any third party or use it for any purpose other than on behalf of Columbia Sportswear. You have no right to use Columbias name or any of its trademarks, trade names, copyrights, patents, designs or other intellectual property except as set forth in writing by Columbia. February 2009
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Appendixes CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form

Sample Type: F/I Factory: S/S P/P I/L
Style #: Color: Date: Month/Day
Fabric PDM #: Machine #:
PO #: Vendor:
Roller Speed
Pressure
Temperature (C) Tape (Type)
AM Calibration
Lunch Calibration
Break Calibration Shift Change Calibration

KEY: (P or F/Operators Initials) P= Pass F= Fail
This is a confidential and proprietary information of Columbia Sportswear Company. You agree that you will not disclose this information to any third party or use it for any purpose other than on behalf of Columbia Sportswear. You have no right to use Columbias name or any of its trademarks, trade names, copyrights, patents, designs or other intellectua l property except as set forth in writing by Columbia. February 2009
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements (V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements
The application of Heat Transfer and Screenprinting onto apparel and accessories is a single function that can have direct correlation to brand image. Excellent Heat Transfer and Screenprinting application reflects well against the brands quality, while a poorly applied Heat Transfer or Screenprint can identify the brand with an overall poor quality and poor workmanship opinion by the end customer. In the following pages, Columbia has outlined methods for correct application, machine calibration and testing requirements that will yield an excellent and durable application to the finished product that will enhance Columbia Sportswear products.
CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization Heat Transfer/Screenprint Selection

o o o During product commercialization, the Heat Transfer/Screenprint artwork has been generated and applied to commercialized fabric to confirm fabric application compatibility. All Heat Transfer/Screenprint has been tested and approved by the Trims Research and Product Development teams for both art quality and adherence to the commercialized fabric. Heat Transfer/Screenprint Vendor testing documentation is saved in PDM under the Heat Transfer/Screenprint PDM item number. See attachments section for the testing report.
Heat Transfer Receiving Inspection

o o o Inspections are to be completed on all incoming all heat transfer labels by factory. .65 AQL Normal or Tightened Heat Transfer sampling is to be used to accept individual quantities. If a shipment be is less than 500 pieces, inspect 100%.
Inspections requirements include: o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM number, graphics o Compared to the approved sample o General quality and consistency o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity o All non conforming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored separately o Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and re-audited Heat Transfer Storage o o o Store Heat Transfers in well ventilated area humidity below 70% and indoor temperature below 30c, out of direct or fluorescent light, this prevents discoloring. Leave Heat Transfers sealed in original shipping cartons. All Heat Transfer inventory should be depleted by the first received method to ensure proper application and use. The storage life of a Heat Transfer is normally one year.
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements

o o Do not remove oil paper on label backing before using. Oilpaper should be put between labels in preventing sticky issues. Its better to stack the labels by rubber band before distributing to different production lines. Loosed packing will cause sticky issue.
CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements

Automatic pneumatic machine should be used to apply heat transfers piece by piece as Columbias requirement. Heat Transfer Presses should have the following critical conditions: 1. Automatic controls to Adjustable time, temperature and pressure operations. 2. Digital timer can be adjustable the time countdown on readout, automatically signal as timing passed or reset as handle raising. 3. Time and temperature must be controlled by digital microprocessor accurately. 4. Time range should be displayed min.0-180 seconds. 5. Working temperature range should be min.70-230C (160-455F). 6. Pressure must be controlled in a range of at least 0-7 bar ( 0-100 PSI / 0-7 kg/cm). 7. Fingertip controlled operation and programmable print settings. 8. Platen size should be a minimum of 38cm x 38cm (15 x 15). 9. Head plate should be made of metal and Teflon coated to prevent soil age and damaged garments. 10. Base plate should be made of silicone rubber. Fleece can be added to the platform to add sufficient resilience to ensure close alignment with the upper heat press platen. A fleece flat form is recommended to use for the application of threedimensional heat transfers.
Machine Height
The correct method for Heat transfer press working area is for the operator to have an unobstructed view of the application area, spacious enough to find out defect issues with ease.
CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing Development Testing Requirements

All Heat Transfer/Screenprints are to be tested and approved by the Trims Research and Product Development teams for both art quality and adherence to the commercialized fabric. Three tests requirements will be conducted to the Heat Transfer/Screenprint in order to evaluate its acceptability to home laundering, cold cracking, and abrasion. These tests represent the development control sample that is to be replicated in production. 1. The development center/production factory will print a minimum of 5 samples. The fabric samples must be printed on production quality fabric and be cut a minimum size of 8 inches long and by 8 inches wide for testing 2. Wash 2 samples 5 times (following the fabric care instructions listed in PDM) 3 of the samples will remain unwashed. 3. If the samples experience washing failure, the Development Center is to work back with the screen printer to modify ink and binders to achieve an acceptable product that can
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be repeated in production. (Production factory works with their screen printer to resolve problems and with the development center when necessary). If no failure is identified then proceed with the cold crack ( ASTM D1912 Modified ) and Martindale abrasion testing ( ASTM D4966 ) Two samples for the cold crack test are saturated with water, one unwashed sample and one washed sample. The cold crack test is performed at minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit (minus 26 degrees Celsius). The samples are held at this temperature for a minimum of 60 minutes. At the end of 60 minutes and while in the cold chamber the samples are folder and creased with a 10 pound wheel. Any noticeable cracking is unacceptable. If the samples pass the cold crack test then proceed with the Martindale abrasion testing. The abrasion test is performed on one unwashed sample and one washed sample using the Martindale abrasion tester. The samples should be run for 1000 cycles and evaluated against the minimum performance standard which is no failure (no significant change in appearance or function). Report final results of testing.
4. 5.
6. 7.
8. o o
Appearance Considerations
Heat Transfer/Screenprints are to have the same elasticity as the fabric so that it will move with the fabric when the Heat Transfer/Screenprint is applied. There should be no cracking, peeling or bubbling appearance on the Heat Transfer/Screenprint.
CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures

Heat Transfer should be applied by automatic pneumatic machines. Manual presser, or conveyer machines or roller presser are not recommended. Heat Transfer machines are required to be calibrated for temperature, pressure and dwell time at any point over a 30 minute stop or continuous operating more than two hours. Calibration records are to be recorded on CCS 1862 and be made available for review by a Columbia Sportswear representative at any time during the manufacturing process. g) Heat Transfer machine is to be turned on to meet the Heat Transfer manufactures suggested application guidelines 15-20 minutes before start of Heat Transfer trial or production h) Upper and base heating plates must be checked for damage, flatness, and general soil contamination. All adhesive residue, all cover clothes should be removed and cleaned off from both plates after the last usage. Pay attention to the plates made of rubber as it is easy to get deformed, wavy after long times heated i) Pressure check at four plate corners: o 4 pieces of paper in size A5 should be put on four corners of the base plate. o Operating the pressing machine to press these 4 pieces of paper. o Use hand to pull these pieces of papers out, piece by piece with the same strength. If we are feeling uneven pressure then plate adjustment or replacing are required. j) Temperature check: Heating should be evenly distributed across the heating plate. The temperature meter (or thermocouple) will have to be used for checking 5 points of each plate and results must be recorded on CCS 1862 in order to reference output temperature (showed by machine temperature meter).
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Operating the machine with setting 160 C degree, Pressure at 3 bar (45 PSI) and Dwell time at 30 seconds. o Run a press testing with a thin cloth between two plates, after 3 consecutive times. Use the thermocouple to measure the heat of 4 corners and center point of each plate. The results are written down for records, and noted that +/- 2C degree different are acceptable. k) Dwell time check: Stopwatch is used for checking Machine dwell-time. Running the pressing test with the same time press the stopwatch. o
CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements Requirements

Before production begins, Heat Transfer trial test is required to assure the compatibility of Heat Transfer and fabric in a production environment. This test is to be completed against each lot and color of fabric. o Apply Heat Transfer to the commercialized fabric as per Heat Transfer manufacturers instructions. o Record Heat Transfer application parameters directly on the fabric along with machine type or machine number f) Heating Plate Pressure g) Heating plate temperature h) Dwell time
Appearance Check Process

o o o Allow Heat Transfer a minimum of 15 minutes time to cool down completely. (Some fabrications require longer cooling times.) Check for retention by using hand stretch method: Grip the printed sample around 12 cm from the transfer and stretch the transfer both horizontal and vertical direction around 10% to 30% each. Observe for Heat Transfer Cracking, appearance, all Heat Transfer edges-corners solid bonded should be checked.
Mock-up Washing Test

o o o o Printed mock up in all color ways available must be passed the washing test (5-times, following care label washing condition) and enclosed with PP samples to be submitted to Columbia Sportswear Representative Office QA Department. Proceed to generate tests on the balance of color ways as they arrive for bulk. All application parameters are required to be recorded in PP samples inspection report for reference in production. All results of washed samples are to yield the same results as the development testing control samples.
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures Procedure
Heat transfer pressing operator should inspect 100% output printed panels or at least 10 consecutive pieces of first output per each bundle, or right after any presser calibration (mentioned in CCS 1854 above) with using hand-stretching method. Bundle quantity 0- 24 panels: Inspect 5 pieces, no defect accepted. Bundle over 24+ panels: Follow AQL 1.5 for sampling, but no defect accepted. If inspection yields any defect, the heating machine must be adjusted and the bundle with such defect must be 100% self re-inspected by operator. Heat transfer panels inspection must be focused on the following points (which are not acceptable): a) Overall aesthetics of transfer: Artwork, size, color, shade, design, layout, wording, graphic, PDM number where applicable b) Peeling: Examine all corners, edges of transfer to see any symptom of peeling off. c) Color migration/bleeding: Check to see any visibility of fabric color migrated through transfer. d) Cracking: Notice any cracking on transfer. e) Visible bonding border: Notice any obvious bonding border around transfer. f) Plate mark: Check to see any noticeable plate marked around transfer. g) Stretching (for transfer heated on stretchable fabric): Hold the heated panel at least 10cm from nearest transfer edge both sides, stretch it up to 30% of its original dimension 3 times, release and check if any de-bonding and/or cracking happens. Repeat this for other direction. Notes: -Relax heated panels at least 15 minutes prior to inspection. -The use of combining hand-stretching and washing test are approved for elongation (use of fingernails to scratch on transfer to check for peeling is not correct method).
Factory Responsibility
d) Maintain record of the heat transfer machine daily calibration and in-line process inspection/testing that includes: factory name, machine model, machine number, heat transfer PDM#, fabric PDM#, style#, PO# e) One unit per style per color needs to be wash tested with record of completed testing.
CSC QC Responsibility
Check and review factory calibration and in-line process inspection/testing records to confirm that requirements have been met and the results are passing.
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures Procedure
Heat Transfer/Screen printed garments and gloves are required to be laundered to the labeled care instructions 3 times for either machine or hand wash instructions. Select two garments from production for wash test selection. Use one garment as a control sample for visual appearance comparisons and the other two are to be laundered. Factory is required to record the wash test findings. The following items are to be included in the evaluation: a) b) c) d) e) f) g) Overall aesthetics of transfer: Artwork, size, color, shade, design, layout, wording, graphic, PDM number where applicable Peeling: Examine all corners, edges of transfer to see any symptom of peeling off. Color migration/bleeding: Check to see any visibility of fabric color migrated through transfer. Cracking: Notice any cracking on transfer. Visible bonding border: Notice any obvious bonding border around transfer. Plate mark: Check to see any noticeable plate marked around transfer. Stretching (for transfer heated on stretchable fabric): Hold the heated panel at least 10cm from nearest transfer edge both sides, stretch it up to 30% of its original dimension 3 times, release and check if any de-bonding and/or cracking happens. Repeat this for other direction.
CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting Causes for poor adhesion
Described below are areas that would be reviewed by an inspector and would be causes for Heat Transfers poor adhesion. a) Application parameters not being followed for temperature, pressure and dwell time. b) Poor maintaince and calibration of machinery. c) Incorrect machinery used for application. d) Carrier paper removed too soon. e) Uneven heat plate temperature. f) Dirt under the heat plate.
g) Old heat transfers h) Improperly stored, or missing the carrier paper i) Never tested with passing results
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples
Most poor appearance issues are caused from incorrect temperature, pressure or dwell time application parameters being followed to manufactures suggestions. The below photos demonstrate examples of poor appearance of Heat Transfer application.
Peeling appearance is a failure of the

heat transfer to bond to the face fabric and we see complete failure.
Edge Lift or Halo appearance is the glued

edges of the heat transfer have not affixed itself to the face fabric.
Cracking or Bubbling appearance is

demonstrated with a single part of the artwork failing.
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form
Date: Style #: PO #: Vendor: Sample Type: Factory: S/S P/P I/L F/I
Machine #:
HEAT TRANSFER/SCREENPRINT PDM# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
COLOR/SIZE
RESULT
COMMENTS
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Heat Transfer/Screenprint Quality Requirements CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form
Style #: Color: Date: Month/Day Fabric PDM #: Machine #: PO #: Vendor: Sample Type: F/I Factory: S/S P/P I/L
Dwell Time
Pressure
Temperature (C) Heat Transfer/Screenprint PDM # AM Calibration
Lunch Calibration
Break Calibration Shift Change Calibration

KEY: (P or F/Operators Initials) P= Pass F= Fail
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Puckering Standards
(VI) Puckering Standards Double Needle Puckering Standards Standard #: CCS 2006
Last issue date: 2/14/02
DN1
DN2
DN3
DN4
DN5
The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you see. DN3, DN4 and DN5 should be considered unacceptable before and/or after pressing.
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Puckering Standards Single Needle Puckering Standards Standard # CCS 2006
Revision Date: 2/14/02
DN1
DN2
DN3
DN4
DN5
The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you see. DN3 should be considered marginal at best, DN4 and DN5 should be considered unacceptable before and/or after pressing.
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A & E Technical Bulletin
(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin Sewing Machine Maintenance

Sewing Maintenance Checklists An area that Columbia Sportswear is very concerned with is the condition of the sewing floor and of the sewing machine basic setups and maintenance. These directly impact: o o o o o o o o Seam Quality, Appearance and Durability Operator Productivity & Earnings Sewing Operator Morale Manufacturing Through-Put Time Products Produced May Require Greater Inspection Higher Costs and Lower Profits Consumer Dissatisfaction Loss of Brand-Name Credibility
It is the joint responsibility of Production, Maintenance and Quality to monitor and assist in the proper setup, care and maintenance of sewing equipment and thread. Using the checklists provided in the appendix will help you organize and evaluate sewing processes in order to optimize sewing and seam performance. The topics include preventative maintenance, three basic systems used to form and set a stitch, and stitch and seam quality. Preventative Maintenance Check to see if the machines are being kept clean: Machines should be blown off every day to remove lint and trash*. On lockstitch machines, the hook should be blown off regularly during the day to prevent lint or dirt from building up in the oil ports in the race of the hook. o Check to see that the machines are being lubricated regularly: Oil levels should be checked daily and additional oil added if necessary. Randomly check the oil levels in the machines. A high quality white machine oil should be used that will not stain. Check availability of proper machine oil in the factory. Check to make sure the oil is not contaminated. o Check to see that oil reservoir pump filters are cleaned regularly: If compressed air is used, make sure the air system is regulated properly and has humidity dryers, filters, and lubricator in the air lines. Check for rusted areas due to excessive moisture in production area. o Check machines for wear on critical moving parts: Check for shake in needle bar due to worn needle bar bushings. Check for excessive movement in stitch forming devices, etc. Check condition of critical screws: Check for missing screws. Check for defective screws that are difficult to tighten properly. Check condition of mechanics tools to see that they are being maintained properly. *With buttonhole or other specialized equipment, cleaning of the machine should not be done with compressed air but with a soft bristle brush.
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Stitch Forming System o The sewing machine needle should be inspected regularly during the day and replaced if there are signs of wear or damage: The correct type & size of needle should be used. Wovens - sharp pointed needles: On light weight fabrics where structural jamming can cause seam puckering, the finest needle size should be used with a long-point. Knits - ball pointed needles of the finest size should be used. The correct needle size - thread size relationship should be maintained. Lockstitch machines: Check the hook for sharp surfaces and burrs on the hook point. Check for other sharp surfaces on other thread contact surfaces. Check for excessive wear in the raceway that will allow excessive movement in the basket. Chainstitch & Overedge machines: Check the looper points for sharp surfaces or burrs*. Observe excessive wear of looper. Check to make sure loopers are shaped properly according to original factory condition.
Observe method of removal of entangled thread on loopers. Sharp objects that can nick or burr the loopers should NOT be used. Thread Handling System o Check to make sure thread is being stored properly: Cones should be stored properly to insure that they are not contaminated with dirt, excessive lint, etc. Check to make sure wind on part cones does not affect take-off the cone. Check to make sure the correct thread type and sizes are being used: Check the order book and inventory to make sure the proper thread is used. Thread stands are in proper condition and the top eyelets are oriented properly. Optimum distance between the top of cone & top eyelet (should be no more than two cones higher than cone size being used). Thread stand eyelets are smooth and not grooved or damaged. Cone is held in a vertical stationary position. Machine eyelets and guides are smooth and not grooved, rusted or damaged. Machine thread tensions are as light as possible but still give balanced stitches: Observe how much of the tension post is exposed beyond the tension nut. Generally, the more of the tension post that is visible, the more tension that is being applied to the sewing thread Observe the condition of the tension discs, take-up spring, etc. Check the bottom tension to make sure it is as loose as possible & still give a balance stitch.
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Lockstitch machines: o o Bobbin winder in good condition & making correct wind on bobbins. Condition of bobbins & bobbin tension: Look for nicks on edge of bobbins indicating incorrect needle height. Look for damaged or bent bobbins. Check bobbin tension (minimum tension recommended) of: Bobbin case. Bobbin case laying on a flat surface After bobbin thread has been pulled up through the hole in the needle plate.
Needle thread: o o o o o Machines are properly threaded. Needle thread tension is as light as possible but still give a balanced stitch. Take-up spring in proper positioned and working properly Proper thread size / needle size relationship is being maintained. Proper needle thread size / bobbin thread size is being used.
Feed Handling System: o o o o o Needle plates are in good condition; Make sure the needle hole size/needle size relationship is correct: Generally, the needle hole size should be twice the diameter of the needle being used. Check to make sure the needle hole in the needle plate is not damaged. Look for needle damage and sharp edges. Check to see if the needle plate is flat and not bent down at the needle hole.
Chainstitch needle plates: o o Observe to see that the length of the needle hole slot is greater than the stitch length. Observe to see that the underside of the needle hole is shaped correctly to aid in forming a proper triangle.
Feed dogs are in good condition and correct for the application: o o o o o Check to make sure the feed are not broken or damaged. Observe the teeth per inch on the feed dog. Generally, the following should be found: Light weight sewing - 20 - 24 tpi; Medium weight sewing - 14 - 18 tpi; Heavy weight sewing - 10 - 12 tpi.
Overedge needle plates: o o Check for needle damage or burrs on the needle hole and stitch tongue. Make sure the trimming knives are adjusted to the width of the needle plate stitch tongue.
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Presser foot: o o o o o o o Correct foot is being used for the application. Make sure the needle hole size/needle size relation is correct & the needle has sufficient clearance. Check to make sure the needle hole is not damaged. Check for proper pressure both in front and in back of the needle. With the foot flat on the needle plate, you should not be able to insert a thin piece of paper between the foot and the needle plate from the front or backside of the needle. Check presser foot for excessive wear causing side-to-side play. The pressure on the presser foot should be as light as possible and give a uniform stitch length. Check to make sure the correct stitch length is being used.
Other Thread Handling Systems Material Trimming Systems: o Check to see that the cutting knives are sharp and are trimming properly. This can be checked by placing a single end of thread between the knives and observing if the thread is cut by the knives.
Thread Trimming System: o Check to see that the chain cutters are cutting the chain to the proper length that minimizes trim & inspect
Folders & Guides: o o o Observe to see that the correct capacity folder is being used for the fabric being sewn. Check for additional folds caused by excessive folder capacity. Check for excessive stretching of the fabric causing additional seam puckering.
Stitch & Seam Quality Lockstitch seams: o o o o Check to see that the stitch looks the same on both the top and bottom of the seam. If back tacking is required, make sure the correct number of stitches are used in the back tack. Make sure the proper SPI are being used. Make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained.
Chainstitch seams: o o o Make sure the stitch is balanced properly. Check for excessive seam grinning. Looper thread should roll over.
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Overedge seams: o o o o o o o o Check for proper stitch balance. Check for excessive seam grinning. Check for proper seam extensibility or stitch elongation. Check to make sure that the purl is on the edge of the seam. Check to make sure the knives are trimming the fabric cleanly. Check to make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained. Observe operator handling for excessive trim. If latch-tacking, make sure the chain is sewn into the seam properly.
Skipped Stitches: o o o Check areas where frequent skips have been observed. Observe where one seam crosses another seam. Check to see if the skip occurs on thickness or after thickness.
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Factory Apparel Sizing Audits
(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits Introduction

Columbia Sportswear serves a large number of retailers, distributors and ultimately our end customer, all of whom demand high quality apparel. This expectation also applies to the size, fit and comfort of our garments. Consistent quality, sizing and fit is required to meet customer satisfaction and is a direct reflection on our Brand integrity. To further support improved sizing and fit of our garments, we have revised our Quality Sizing procedures for our quality inspection staff. This procedure also applies to our minimum expectations for factory internal Final Audit sizing, which should compliment strong in-process sizing procedures. The sizing audit should be conducted along with the Final Audit for quality and packaging and can also be conducted independently as a separate sizing audit on prepackaged goods. Results are to be compared to internal in-process sizing results and used for continuous improvement efforts.
Purpose
To insure that merchandise shipped to Columbia Sportswear and its retailers meets all sizing related specifications and tolerances. Factory Sizing Audits Columbia Sportswear strongly recommends our factories use the following measurement procedure as part of their Final Audit process. It is an easy, but very effective sampling and will prevent sizing problems in our factory or DC audits and help meet customer expectations. Measure three (3) garments per size and per color. o One garment per size for all measurements; other garments for critical measurements o If no out of tolerance measurements are found, the audit is complete and passes. For any color and size that has ONE garment or less out of tolerance (OOT) measurement within the same point of measure (POM), pull 3 more garments of the same size and color. o Only measure the same point of measure (POM) that was out of tolerance in the first 3 garments. o If another OOT point of measurement is found in the additional 3 garment sampling, that size, color and POM fails Failures require the factory to complete a 100% inspection of the failed size, color and POM, then present for re-audit by CSQA
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Any size and color in the initial 3 garment sampling that has MORE than ONE OOT in the same POM, would automatically fail that size, color and POM. Pulling an additional 3 garments is not necessary. That color and size should be 100% inspected and reaudited by CSQA. o Even if a POM does not have 2 OOT, a sizing audit will fail if 15% or more of the sampled garments are OOT. A garment with one or more OOT measurements is counted as 1 OOT garment. Ie 4 sizes x 3 colors x 3 = 36 garments measured; 6 or more total OOT would fail the entire audit
If in doubt, in lieu of an automatic 100 % inspection, the factory has the choice to use the Columbia Sportswear Single Sampling Plan at a 1.5 AQL, included in the appendix, to determine if the failed size and color warrants a full 100% inspection. The selection of the sample should be random and the lot size is the quantity within the color and size that failed.
Factory Sizing Audits o o For lot sizes of 1200 and below, and only one size range and one color, measure 6 garments and allow one out of tolerance POM. For lot sizes above 1200 and only one size range and color, measure 10 garments and allow 2 out of tolerance POM.
Additional Points o o o o o o o o Strong process controls and monitoring is necessary throughout Development, Spreading, Cutting, Sewing and Testing to ensure consistently accurate measurements. A formal Vestibule Training program is necessary to provide effective operator development. Knit products should be laid flat and patted into place, not stretched during the audit. The CSQA How To Measure manual should be used with the BOM to determine proper measurements. Paper tape measures should be calibrated frequently to ensure accuracy. Final Audit sizing should be completed just prior to the quality audit to avoid distorting garments. Pressing knits to fit specs and tolerance is a temporary fix and doesnt ensure proper fit. Care must be taken by the factory to meet and maintain accurate sizing prior to and after pressing. Sets and Interchange programs are to be measured as a single selling unit. An OOT in each component would count as one. An OOT in a critical measurement in one component still requires another 3 pieces to be measured.
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CSQA Sizing Procedure Columbia Sportswear Quality Inspectors will follow the same procedure as outlined above in most instances. However, we may periodically choose to measure three garments per size, and combine colors, effectively reducing the sample size. Many factors will determine our inspectors approach which will be determined by the local CSQA Manager. Some factors may include: o Qualified Factory Inspector Program has been implemented o Factory Quality Systems Evaluation has been completed and is Acceptable o Inspection quality, packaging and sizing results meet goals of at least: 2.5 % Defective and a 5.0 % Fail Rate with a minimum of 15 CSQA audits If you have any questions, please feel free to contact your local CSQA Manager or Regional Manager. Use along with: I. Single Sampling Plan Normal Level 1.5 & 2.5 AQL
II. CSQA Sizing Sheet III. Critical Points of Measure List IV. How to Measure Manual - available as a separate manual
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Packaging Compliance Audits
(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits Introduction

Columbia Sportswear caters to a large number of retailers and agents who have many different packing requirements. In some instances, we are asked to ship our products directly to the retailers. Our own distribution systems also require a strict adherence to accurate packaging and labeling. Regardless of the initial destination, it is critical that packing is 100% accurate to allow for automated processing, to avoid delays, chargebacks and to meet end customer expectations. As a result, we have established the following Packaging Compliance Audit process to better monitor the packaging and labeling accuracy of our shipments. Purpose To insure that merchandise is shipped as specified and accurate in all vas requirements. This audit would typically be performed by our inspectors as part of the Final Audit process, but can also be a stand alone, planned audit. We encourage our factories to follow this procedure at a minimum, or tighter, to ensure that your internal inspections are thorough enough to pass the Columbia Sportswear QA Packaging Compliance Audit. Conducting the Audit
Lot Size: Sampling Plan: Audits Lot Size / # of Cartons Up to 99 cartons 100 to 500 carton 501 and Above cartons # of cartons in the shipment Use the following table for initial Packaging Audits and re-audits of failed Packaging
Max # of Pos 2
# of Cartons to Inspect 13 (Cover all sizes and colors)
Accept 0 defective
20 (Cover all sizes and colors)
1 defective
32 (Cover all sizes and colors)
2 defective
NOTE: If a defective carton is found and the overall audit has passed, select an additional 3 cartons of the size and color in which the defect was found. If no additional defective cartons are found in the extra 3, then the audit would pass. If additional defective cartons are found in the 3 extra cartons, that size and color should fail and be reinspected by the factory and reaudited. Defects: Any defect found within the same carton is considered one defective carton. Use # of cartons defective to determine pass/fail. On inspection sheet, note defect types and instance quantities.
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Packaging Compliance Audits Inspection Procedures

Lot Integrity and Selection o Obtain the completed packing list from the factory. o Obtain the internal Packing Integrity report from the factory (if CSQA Audit). o Ensure that cartons are neatly stacked in order, i.e.. by PO and carton number-wise. o Confirm that cartons are stored in a secure, clean and dry area. o See that cartons are not bulging from over packing, or collapsing due to under packing. o Physically count the number of cartons to see that they match the packing list. o Using the above sampling plan, RANDOMLY select the number of cartons to be inspected per po Random means, all cartons should be available and have an opportunity to be selected! The audit process can start as the lot is nearing completion, ie 85% Simply select a proportional amount of finished cartons and the remainder of the sample size from the remaining percentage when it is complete. Packaging Compliance Audits Auditing the Cartons o Pull the required cartons and have them moved to a clear and clean inspecting area. o Check the cartons for any damages, improper taping, and carton quality, especially the edges. o Verify that the carton dimensions meet the specified requirements for In-line Pos , or requirements as called for in the VAS or PO copy. Non-compliance could result in a failure. o Weigh a carton of each size to verify that the Vas and PO list specs are met. o Compare carton labeling accuracy against the details on the PO copy and VAS. o Check for any special stickers and placement called out in the VAS or PO copy. o Verify the barcode readability and accuracy of each carton and spot check numerous units in each. Factories must have ability to verify bar code readability and accuracy regardless of the label origin. o Ensure that security tape meets specifications and hasnt been tampered with. o It is imperative that the carton sizes are correctly chosen for the size and folding of the garment. o The safety plate/ slash guard should cover the carton mouth to prevent knife damage. o The contents in the carton should be neatly stacked, not overlapping, or crumpled. Auditing the Contents o Verify that each garment, from each carton in the sample is accurate for carton count and labeling. o Verify that each garment label, polybag or hangtag is accurate including matching the woven or heat set label. Again, check the complete contents of each of the sampled cartons. o Also be sure that all related packaging specs are met, including: Poly bag is not too small or not too large for garment Poly bag has air vents as required Poly bag has child warning printed behind as required o Any other special requirements called out for in the VAS or PO copy
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Packaging Compliance Audits

Packaging Defects o A defect is considered a carton with one or more of any packaging or labeling related non-conformance, including but not limited to: Carton quantity, color, size, assortment, etc., does not match carton labeling Carton contents are not neatly packaged Barcode stickers on poly bags, hang tags of garments and on cartons do not match Any barcode label that does not scan or is not readable If poly bag size does not fit garment folding size correctly Use of a significantly oversized or undersized carton Carton dimension or weight does not meet the minimum or maximum specifications Any damage to the cartons exterior or interior that could result in garment damage Improper or missing tape and labeling Any missing/incorrect information either on the carton or on the polybag Any missing/incorrect, information on hangtag or sticker from the garment Any missing or inaccurate hangtag, stickers, or improperly sealed polybags. Any damage, missing air-vents, or missing suffocation warning on polybags Any unreadable required carton markings or those that do not meet specs Audit Results o If any one or more of the above defects are noted within one carton, that carton is defective o If a defective carton is found and the overall audit has passed, select an additional 3 cartons of the size and color in which the defect was found. If no additional defective cartons are found in the extra 3, then the audit would pass. If additional defective cartons are found in the 3 extra cartons, that size and color should fail and be reinspected by the factory and reaudited. o If an audit has failed and all defects were from one size and color, then the failure applies to only that size and color. The factory should spot check all others to ensure conformance. Audit Failures o Factory must 100% inspect and correct immediately, reaudit internally and confirm reaudit date CSQA Provide a detailed summary of the problems found, remove all defective goods and segregate Must maintain lot integrity; keep replacement garments separate; update packing list Reaudits should be completed typically within 24 hrs; less severity may allow same day reaudit For questions and assistance, please contact your local CSQA Area or Regional Manager.
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QFI Introduction
(X) QFI Introduction

In an effort to improve our standing as a leader and a competitive force in the apparel industry, Columbia Sportswear Company must provide our customers with a high quality, high value product, at the correct time and in the correct manner. Achieving this goal will promote more successful and efficient business partnerships throughout our supply chain and within our customer base. In order to achieve this goal, we have developed several new initiatives to improve our Quality Assurance program and to transition to a supply base that is responsible for the quality of their product. Our plan is to help build factory quality systems and continuous improvement efforts that promote both prevention and corrective action. We must move to an environment that results in "building the quality into the garments instead of inspecting quality into the garments". The Qualified Factory Inspector Program is one of these initiatives, along with: o Building a monitoring process in our Distribution Centers o Implementing a Evaluation program to rate and build quality systems of factories and fabric mills o A new Factory Quality Control Manual; numerous other manuals including construction o manufacturing standards and packaging o Revised new auditing processes and procedures to improve the accuracy of performance metrics The Qualified Factory Inspector Program (QFI) is a comprehensive program to help develop strong partnerships with our factories. We will help build and support quality systems to become more effective and efficient. We will provide training to your inspectors and develop their abilities to monitor CS products. And, we will help build internal and external Inspector defect recognition and consistency within the factories and among our inspection teams. CSQA will work with the factory to establish a team of inspectors who are responsible for monitoring and inspecting all stages of production, which in turn will help ensure that product is made correctly the first time. We will train factory inspectors how to audit product in a manner consistent with Columbias procedures. Columbia Sportswear QA strongly believes that the QFI program will improve your factory efficiencies and product quality, and help better meet the ever increasing demands of our customers in the following ways: o Consistent, brand right, well constructed, high quality products o Sales Floor ready garments and 100% accurate shipments o Drastically improved on time shipments A few benefits that factories should realize include: o Reduced handling, rework and excessive shipping costs incurred due to failed and delayed audits o Ship product with higher confidence that internal inspections will accurately reflect status of the lot o Take responsibility of their quality and reduce the need for Columbia inspections and monitoring o Improve communication with CSQA and better understand expectations and standards
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QFI Introduction
The QFI program allows us to build our QA efficiency. We intend to develop and evolve the program with strong factories that are committed to continuous improvement and their partnership with Columbia and the overall success of the program. Our goal is to reduce the time we are spending with our successful factories, including allowing a managed reduction in the number of Inline and Final Audits we complete and establishing a monitoring process within our Distribution Centers. Success in the QFI program should lead to a Qualified Factory designation. As we progress during 2008, we will determine how quickly this program will be developed. Our intention is to reward those strong factories who take full ownership and responsibility for the quality of merchandise they produce. We want to make the shipment of product as efficient as possible and believe that we will be able to monitor the quality of our goods in a less involved manner than today. We want you to become a Qualified Factory with the responsibility to audit and release a high percentage of your shipments. We congratulate you on being selected to participate in this important initiative and look forward to working with you to make this a success for all. If you have any questions, please speak with your local QA Manager or feel free to contact me. Best Regards, Lamar Hartness Director, Global Quality Assurance Columbia Sportswear Company Office: 503-985-4709 Email: lhartness@columbia.com
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Form Examples (XI) Form Examples Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example
Reporting Worksheet
Style No. ___________________ PO # ______________________ Factory ____________________
Color ____________ Size _____________
Date _______________
Plant Managers Signature __________________
Dimensional Stability Spec Meas. Length Width Unwashed Meas. Washed Meas. Shrinkage Acc/Rej
Appearance Record Pass or Fail except where the Grey Scale is used for ratings or for Skew/Torque report the percentage. Appliqus, buttons or trims securely attached ________ Color Bleeding/Self Staining ( rating ) Excessive color change Holes or Other signs of excessive abrasion Handfeel same as before wash ________ ________ ________ ________ Needle cuts and chews _______ Raveled Edges Seam Puckers Excessive Pilling ________ ________ ________
Excessive Wrinkling ________ Torque/Skew ( % ) Embroidery ________ ________
Zippers or Other trim items functioning properly _______ Screen print / Heat Transfers Comments ________
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Form Examples
Fabric Inspection Sample Form Standard #: CCS 110 Last issue date: 12/16/05
The factory will communicate quality issues directly to the vendor with supporting data from work sheet and the defective samples. These will also be kept for Columbia sportswear QC review. Fabric Inspection Worksheet Date: Style: Color code & Name: Quantity:
Roll # Lot # Length on B/L Real Length
Invoice #:
Penalty Points
1 to 3 Over 3 6 Over 6 9 Over 9 Total Points
Totals: Rejected: Checked:
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Form Examples Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example

Fabric Supplier: P.O. # Date of Inspection: Dye Lot # Piece # Piece Length Defects Yarn Broken Ends/Picks Coarse Ends/Picks Knots Neps Slubs Weaving Barre Double Ends/Picks End Out Filing Bar Float Fly Holes Misdraw/Mispick Mending Mark Dyeing Stain Crease Mark Off Pattern Shrinkage Mark Splice Streaks Total Points (Mill/Factory) Total Points / 100 sq ft. (Mill/Factory) Weight Width Handfeel Shading Skewness
Description: Color Name:
Yardage: Factory:
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Form Examples Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example FABRIC INSPECTION TALLY SHEET
Date: _______________ Fabric Code: P.O. #:
1 Point
________________ _________________
2 Points 3 Points 4 Points
Mill: ______________________ Contract Width: _______________

Total Points/ Rolls
Fabric Description: ________________

Color Name Dye Lot # Piece # Actual Yardage Cuttable Width
Total
Total
Total
Total
Comments
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Form Examples Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form

FABRIC INSPECTION SUMMARY REPORT
FABRIC MILL P.O. NO & DATE FABRIC DESCRIPTION DESIGN & COLOR COUNTS WARP WEFT
LENGTH AS PER ACTUAL SLIP MTS MTS
EXCESS OR SHORTAGE
REV NO.01 FINDING C/NC REPORT NO.
CONSTRUCTION
SPEC
TOLERENCE
END / INCH PICKS / INCH WIDTH

SHADE VARAITION
DATE:
( See below)
DYE STREAKS STAINS & SOIL
END OUT / DROP STITCH
BALE NO:
STATUS
MISPICK
OTHER
BARRE
SLUBS
PASS / FAIL
TOTAL
WIDTH
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
INSPECTOR: AUTHORITY FOR DISPOSTION (CE/GM): TOTAL QUANTITY CHECKED : 1. 2. 3. 4. ACCEPT WITH / WITHOUT CONCESSION REWORK REJECT SEGREGATION ( FOR CONSTRUCTION ONLY)
HOLE
FLY
SL. NO.
CREASE
COMMENTS
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Form Examples Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example

CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL
CUTTER_______________________________ MONTH______________ YEAR____________ DE F E CTS
BUNDLES INSPECTED
MATCHING PLIES
NOTCHES
TOTAL DEFECTS
PATTERN CHECK
CUT NUMBER
RAGGED CUTTING
DEFECT RATE
MISCUT
DATE
101
Form Examples Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example
FACTORY SIZING SHEET - APPAREL

Vendor / Factory Number: _____________
POINT OF MEASUREMENT # SIZE SPEC + 1 2 3 POINT OF MEASUREMENT # SPEC + 1 2 3
Lot Number: _____________

POINT OF
Date: __________
POINT OF MEASUREMENT 2 3 # SPEC + 1 2 3
POINT OF MEASUREMENT # SPEC + 1 2 3
MEASUREMENT # SPEC + 1
POINT OF MEASUREMENT # SIZE SPEC + 1 2 3
Re-Audit Requirements and Form

102
Form Examples
Re-Audit Form
Factory Requirements: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Complete form with all reinspection details Provide to the CSQC Inspector at time of reaudit Provide a copy of the passed factory final audit Have all second or lesser quality, marked or defaced and ready for reaudit We must verify all quantities Maintain complete segregation and lot integrity Keep replacement units separate for inspection ________________________ ________________________ Audit Date: ______________
Vendor Name & Number: Factory Name & Number:
Style Number: ______________
Quality Managers Name & Signature: __________________________________________________ Please provide all reinspection details. Initial Final Audit Lot Size: Number of seconds removed: First quality units after 100% inspection: Types and quantity of defects found: __________________________________________________________________________________ Additional Comments: __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ ____________ ____________ ____________
103
Form Examples Inline Inspection Form Example FACTORY INLINE INSPECTION FORM
QC Inspector: _____________________________________ Line #: Date/ Week: _____________________________________ _____________________________________ Line Supervisor: ____________________________
% Defective in Initial Inspections
Total Initial Audit Pieces Inspected

OTH
2nd follow up
2nd follow up
3rd follow up
3rd follow up
1st follow up
1st follow up
DAY
Name of Operator & Operation
Inspect 7 Pieces 5 for < 24 List as 7 / 0 )
Time
For Failures Inspect 3 Consecutive Bundles
Reserved For Follow Up Bundles that Fail
DEFECT CLASSIFICATIONS PUK LNS OS
RE
BS
SS
BS= Broken Stitch LP= Label Placement
SS= Skip Stitch OTH= Other
OS= Open Seam RE= Raw Edges PCK= Puckering LS= Loose Stitch S= Shading Min. of 3 Initial Inspection per day 104
LP
Total Initial Audit Defects

Factory QC Manual - 高端服装品牌QC验货标准 (英文版)

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Factory QC Manual - 高端服装品牌QC验货标准 (英文版)

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Apparel Factory Quality Manual

Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts

Email Address kjung@columbia.com jsun@columbia.com mhammitt@columbia.com haih@columbia.com mwalmsley@columbia.com wajirak@columbia.com kng@columbia.com

Introduction Basic Quality Assurance Expectations

Responsibility For Quality

Fabric Inspection Program

II) Fabric Inspection Program

Fabric Inspection Program

Four Point System

Fabric Inspection Program

= Avg. Points per 100 Square Yards

Fabric Inspection Program

Fabric Inspection Program Knit Bundle Inspections

Color and Shade Control

Color Program Basics

Fabric Inspection Program

Approved Production Standard APS

Run Cards and Shade Bands

Recommended Inspection Level is .65.

Acceptable Quality Levels (normal inspection)

2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 800 800 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 10 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 11 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 14 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 15

Fabric Testing Basics III) Fabric Testing Basics

Finished Garment Testing Summary

Fabric Testing Basics

Testing Evaluation and Reporting

Cutting and Spreading Inspections

IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections

Monitoring Spreading and Cutting

Cutting and Spreading Inspections Spreading Important Points For Knits

Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures

Cutting and Spreading Inspections CNC / Computer Cutting

Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process

VI) Additional Monitoring

Seam Seal / Bonding

Additional Monitoring Measurement Procedures

Quality Reports and Daily Meeting

Display and Organizational Boards

Additional Monitoring Recognition and Incentive Programs

VII) Final Inspection

Criteria of a Strong Final Inspection (100% Inspection):

Final Audit Process VIII) The Final Audit Process

Final Audit Process

Final Audit Process Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection.

Acceptable Quality Levels (normal inspection)

2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11

Final Audit Process Using the How To Measure Manual

Final Audit Process

VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program

Broken Needle and Auxilary Sewing Tool Policy

I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy

Broken Needle and Auxilary Sewing Tool Policy

Broken Needle and Auxilary Sewing Tool Policy

Broken Needle Log

Trimming Scissors attached to Inspection Table.

Trimming Scissors attached to Machine

Trimming Scissors attached to Work Table

Regular Calibration After 2 hrs

Regular Calibration After 4 hrs

Regular Calibration After 6 hrs Regular Calibration After 8 hrs

Standard # CCS 125B

* Initial when calibration is checked

Down Product Compliance Overview